MIX Magazine October 2012 by Mix Magazine

portland, oregon / oCtoBer 2012

Eat • Drink • Get Out • Get Together MIXpdX.CoM

The Drinks issue

Wine, waders and whiskey: fly fishing on the Metolius with chef Elias Cairo OCTOBER 2012

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From tapas to tacos: portland’s best bar snacks p16 learn how to make cocktails like a pro p26 wine country trips For busy people p45

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editor’s note My first sip of beer prompted a nosecrinkled “ugh!” Things weren’t much different after my first sip of wine, though the crinkle was replaced by a squinty-eyed pucker. Don’t get me started on cocktails, or coffee, or anything else adults were always drinking. You can’t blame me. I was, after all, still part of the juice-box set. (Hey, they were sips, not gulps, and it was the 1970s.) When I finally reached the age when drinking such beverages wasn’t considered a criminal act, I can’t say my tastes had really changed that much. My idea of a sophisticated beverage was an Orangina. Again, you can’t blame me, it was the early ’90s in the suburbs and I was surrounded by Budweiser, jug wine and screwdrivers. It wasn’t long, though, before the term “craft” began to pop up beyond references to glue sticks and yarn – especially

on the West Coast. Soon I was exposed to beer, wine and cocktails that intrigued my palate rather than assaulted it. And as the liquid landscape changed, so did I. The Pacific Northwest can take a lot of credit for helping me — and the rest of the country, really — evolve into sophisticated drinkers. This is where all those craft movements started, and Portland’s talented brewers, winemakers, distillers and bartenders continue to set the pace for the rest of the world.

For them, and for all of us happily imbibing all they have to offer, this issue’s for you.

Danielle Centoni, editor dcentoni@oregonian.com PHOTOGRAPH by leAH nAsH, AT sAuvAGe, P16

Want to be sure you get every issue of MIX? S u b S c r i b e ! 10 issues for $20. Go to MIXpdX.coM or call 503-221-8240.

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Starters

eat

Drink

11 Boozy cake, wine co-op, guided tours, tasty beer and more

16 Top Ten: Our favorite bar snacks, from tapas to tacos

23 MixMasTer: The gist of Ryan Csanky’s new gin 26 Technique: How to shake and stir with Wafu’s Becca June 28 Wine: Turning red grapes into white wine

Get together 34 super Fly: Fishing and feasting on the Metolius with some of Portland’s best chefs PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID L. REAMER

Get out 45 Wine counTry: Three great itineraries that won’t take all day 48 eaT here: There’s no better time to visit Asheville, N.C. 54 calendar: What to do and where to go this month ____ 56 back page: Remembering Robert Reynolds

MIX is 10 issues a year! It’s easy to subscribe online — go to Mixpdx.coM and click on “subscribe.” You can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at Mixpdx.coM, so get clicking and start eating.

(Left to Right): Gaironn Poole, Galaxy Wine Co. / Sommelier; Robert Wolf, Oregon Pinot Noir Club; Scott Julien, CEO Waverley C.C.; Christopher Chan, Executive Director Oregon Wine Awards; Anthony Garcia, Advanced Sommelier / Noisette Restaurant; Michael Dietrich, Wine Manager Tualatin Fred Meyer; Marcus Goodfellow, Owner / Winemaker Matello Wines; Jennifer Cossey, Wine Journalist / Sommelier

contributors “Before this article, I thought fishing trips were slow and boring,” says writer Jen stevenson, who documents chef Elias Cairo’s fly fishing trip on Page 34. “Well, it turns out they really are, but when you go with chefs, the phenomenal food more than makes up for it.” Stevenson lives in Portland with her imaginary mini bulldog and a lot of leftovers. She’s author of “Portland’s 100 Best Places to Stuff Your Faces,” and writes about the city’s best things to eat and drink on her website, Under the Table With Jen. This fall, she’s launching The Facestuffer Guides — succinct and cheeky e-guides to unforgettable foodcentric excursions. You can find out more at underthetablewithjen.com.

Fall may be the season of fresh cider and pumpkins, but for writer kerry newberry, it’s the season of crush. She thinks the grape harvest is one of the most exciting times of the year. “There’s nothing like starlit grape sorting and the earthy aroma of fermenting grapes,” she says. “All you need is a good pair of rubber boots and someone to point out the earwigs.” For this issue of MIX, she put together three perfect wine country day trips for those of us short on time (Page 45). When she’s not cruising the Willamette Valley’s back roads and vineyards, Newberry writes for publications such as Edible Portland, Sommelier Journal, OPB, Fodor’s Travel Publications and more.

Photographer david L. reamer cooked professionally for 13 years before putting down the knife and picking up the camera. But he didn’t stray too far, concentrating much of his work on the world of food. He’s frequently called upon to photograph Portland chefs and their dishes. Case in point: Our story on fly fishing with chef Elias Cairo (Page 34). Reamer photographed “Pure Beef” (Running Press, 2012) by MIX contributor Lynne Curry, and now has two other cookbooks in the works with Le Pigeon and Toro Bravo restaurants. His work has appeared in Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, GQ, Sunset and Esquire. But, we’re proud to report, “The Metolius fishing trip is one of the top-three photo assignments I’ve ever been given,” he says.

Growing up in sunny California and learning to skateboard and snowboard at an early age, photographer Christopher shane learned the importance of a good challenge. It’s a trait that has come in handy throughout his career as a food, portrait and travel photographer. But for this issue of MIX, he had it easy, turning his lens on the quirky but cool town of Asheville, N.C. (Page 48). “It was great experiencing all the great food and beer in Asheville,” he says. “I’m looking forward to returning and having some tasty tacos from White Duck and then heading over to The Wedge for a good pint.” Shane’s work has appeared in Budget Travel magazine, Endless Vacation magazine, The Wall Street Journal and many others.

other contrIbutIng WrIters: LuCy BurninghAm, grAnt ButLer, pAuL CLArke, kAtherine CoLe, CAmAs dAVis, John foyston, AshLey gArtLAnd, iVy mAnning, AndreA sLoneCker, kAt VetrAno, ChAd wALsh

other contrIbutIng photographers/Illustrators: Andy BAtt, doug BeghteL, thomAs Boyd, fAith CAthCArt, ross wiLLiAm hAmiLton, dAVid kreB, Beth nAkAmurA, motoyA nAkAmurA, LeAh nAsh, dAnA e. oLsen, rAndy L. rAsmussen, John m. VinCent, Brent woJAhn, stephAnie yAo

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index where to find the reCipes in this issue: Appetizers: • Black Pepper Crackers, p41 entrees • Lentils Du Puy With Wild Salmon and Fresh Horseradish Cream, p42 • Choucroute Garnie, p42

soups And side dishes: • Cauliflower Soup With Wild Salmon Roe and Black Pepper Crackers , p41 desserts: • Kentucky Bourbon Cake, p11 • Mile-High Apple Pie, p43 • Maple Ice Cream, p43

onLine extrAs At mixpdx.Com  Get the recipes for Becca June’s southern Belle and highland mary cocktails  Find out where to buy our favorite nero bianco wines  Get the recipe for roasted root Vegetable salad ON THE COVER: The deft hand and beautiful French wine pull of Jesse Skiles, chef/owner of the new wine bar Sauvage and owner/winemaker at his neighboring Fausse Piste urban winery. PHOTOGRAPH BY LEAH NASH

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1UALITY THAT )NSPIRES

VoLUME 6 / ISSUE 8

mixpdx.com DANIELLE CENTONI / EdIToR

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LINDA SHANKWEILER / cREATIVE dIREcToR

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WALLY BENSON, KATHY HINSON , COLIN POWERS, AMY REIfENRATH / copY EdIToRS AdVERTISING BARBARA SWANSON / VIcE pRESIdENT oF SALES ANd MARKETING bswanson@oregonian.com, 503-221-8279 STEvE uRBAN / MIX MAGAZINE MANAGER surban@oregonian.com, 503-221-8314 DENICE WILLIAMS / RETAIL AdVERTISING MANAGER dwilliams@oregonian.com, 503-221-8514

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Thank you to our sponsors for 25 years of supporting OHSU Doernbecher Children’s Hospital! Between now and October 15, look for products marked with Miracle Aisles shelf tags and you will be supporting companies that generously give to Doernbecher. Products can be found at: Food for Less• Fred Meyer• Market of Choice• Mega Foods• New Seasons Market• Price Impact• QFC• Ray’s Food Place• Roth’s Fresh Markets• Safeway• Select Markets• Sentry Markets• Shop Smart• Shop ‘n Kart• Thriftway• Zupan’s Markets

MIXpdX.coM SEPTEMBER 2012

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Thursday, Nov. 1, 6:30-8 p.m. Providence St. Vincent Medical Center 9155 SW Barnes Road, Portland

n Why does Parkinson’s disease cause tremors? This forum will cover common neurologic diseases from diagnosis to the latest treatments to the search for a cure. Get tips from Providence experts to help maintain a healthy brain and a sharp mind. The presentation will be followed by a questionand-answer session.

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NEW

starters

Make This: Kentucky Bourbon Cake In her latest book “Vintage Cakes” (Ten Speed Press, 2012, $24), Baker & Spice mastermind Julie Richardson gives modern makeovers to old-school favorites like Texas Sheet Cake and Watergate Cake, making those jelly rolls, chiffons, Bundts and layer cakes your grandma used to make even better. She releases Depression-era recipes from their thrifty chains, enriching them with more of the good stuff cooks had learned to do without. And she forgoes “miracle” products like boxed puddings and faux whipped cream that were so popular in the 1950s and ’60s, and rejiggers the recipes with real ingredients instead. One of our favorites is this boozy, golden beauty — a moist, buttery, buttermilkbased Kentucky Bourbon Cake that’s a snap to put together. It goes perfectly with saucy fruits and whipped cream. But, we must admit, it’s also especially good with morning coffee. Does that mean we’re advocating bourbon for breakfast? In this case, yes indeed. — Danielle Centoni

Kentucky bourbon cake makes 10 to 12 servings

PhOTOgRAPh By ROSS WILLIAM hAMILTON

This buttermilk Bundt cake, drenched in a boozy bourbon glaze, is a great vehicle for whipped cream and strawberries. Kentucky Bourbon Cake was the prize-winning entry by Nell Lewis at the 1963 Pillsbury Bake-Off Contest in Platte City, Missouri. Cake 3 cups (12 ounces) sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter 1½ cups (10½ ounces) granulated sugar ½ cup (3¾ ounces) firmly packed brown sugar 4 eggs, at room temperature ¼ cup bourbon 1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature Glaze 6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter ¾ cup (5¼ ounces) granulated sugar ¼ cup bourbon

To make the cake: Center an oven rack and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. To make the cake, sift together the flour, baking powder, soda, and salt in a bowl, then whisk the mixture by hand to ensure that the ingredients are well mixed. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugars together on medium-high speed until fluffy, about 5 minutes. As you make the batter, stop the mixer frequently and scrape the paddle and the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Blend in the eggs one at a time. Combine the bourbon and buttermilk in a small bowl. With the mixer on low speed, add the flour mixture in three parts, alternating with the buttermilkbourbon mixture in two parts, beginning and ending with the flour. After each addition, mix until just barely blended and stop and scrape the bowl. Stop the mixer before the last of the flour has been incorporated and complete the

blending by hand with a rubber spatula. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and spread it out evenly. Place the pan in the oven and bake until the cake is golden and springs back when touched, 40 to 45 minutes. To make the glaze: Combine the butter, sugar and bourbon in a small saucepan over low heat just until the butter melts and the sugar dissolves, whisking to combine. Remove the cake from the oven but leave it in the pan. Poke holes all over the top of the cake with a wooden skewer. Pour three-quarters of the glaze slowly over the cake, saving the remaining glaze. Allow the cake to cool for 30 minutes, then flip it out onto a serving plate so the glazed part is on the bottom. Brush the top with the remaining glaze. If the glaze has thickened, rewarm it over low heat. — From “Vintage Cakes” by Julie Richardson october 2012 MIXpdX.coM

starters, cont.

drink here: two to try Southeast Wine collective Ever wonder how that pinot in your glass was actually made? head to the Southeast Wine Collective, a new co-op/urban winery set in the culinary Mecca that is Division Street. The 5,000-square-foot space, a dreamto-reality for Tom and Kate Monroe of Division Winemaking Co., is also home to founding members Bow & Arrow Wines, helioterra Wines and Vincent Wine Co. “The goal is to create a place to nurture small and up-andcoming brands that share the same winemaking philosophy — trying new things and pushing the envelope,” says Tom Monroe. The beauty of the über-urban winery is the addition of a 500-square-foot wine (and beer) bar with glass windows for a behind-the-scenes peek into wine production. (Why are those rubber-boot-clad people standing on top of fermentation tanks?) Besides the action-packed view, the tasting bar will feature flights from the four producers, plus a rotating selection of their “inspiration wines” from other wineries. There are also three beer taps, cheese plates from Steve’s Cheese and charcuterie from Olympic Provisions, both served with bread from Little T. The event space will feature barrel tastings, release parties and dinners, including one on Oct. 10 with Coquine supper club. 2425 S.E. 35th Place, 503-887-8755, sewinecollective.com Open 3-10 p.m. Wednesday-Friday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday and 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Sunday

Gigantic brewing company tap room and champagne Lounge Renowned Portland brewers Van havig and Ben Love opened this addition to the Southeast brew scene with the intention of simply brewing and bottling beer. yet the afterthought tasting room has a magnetic draw, with its gray walls, hip art and rollup doors. gigantic’s only year-round beer, the IPA, is always on tap, while seasonal one-offs run the gamut, including a “black saison” called The City Never Sleeps. Otherwise, choose from guest taps and whole and half bottles of sparkling wine. Food is strictly ByO, but if you didn’t pack a brown bag the Taco Express food cart is right across the street. And Thursday through Sunday, the Volks Essen food cart van stops by with Altengartz brats and soft pretzels. 5224 S.E. 26th Ave., 503-208-3416, giganticbrewing.com — Lucy Burningham

drink this: iCe axe ipa

shop here: threads Count For most men, two things often ring true: We won’t ask for directions, and if something’s too fancy, it’s likely schmancy, too. Still, there are times when we must impress a date and shed our casual Portland plaids for something a bit more refined. That’s where Threads Count comes in. The shop offers an impressive selection of consigned men’s designer wear, from hermès overcoats to Elvis Presley ties, at a fraction of what those duds would cost brand-new. Owners Lance Miller and Ian and Max Andreae offer expert sartorial advice, helping you match the right pair of trousers with a proper pair of boots (and they’ll even shine them for you). Best of all, once you’re looking elegant and confident, you can repair to the shop’s not-so-secret speakeasy and unwind with a round of darts and a cold pint from the shop’s single tap, which pours craft beers from local breweries like Oakshire, Bridgeport or Burnside Brewing. 1536 N.W. 23rd Ave., 503-224-0506, threadscountpdx.com — Chad Walsh

MIXpdX.coM october 2012

When I reviewed Mt. hood Brewing’s beers in 1998, I went to the mountain, literally, because the brewpub at government Camp was the only place that had the beers. Then-brewmaster Jon graber’s well-balanced Ice Axe India Pale Ale was my favorite — and almost everybody else’s, accounting for 60 percent of the brewery’s annual production. There are new brewers at Mt. hood, but Ice Axe is still the flagship and is a classic IPA, one of the first of the style that has become Oregon’s favorite. It’s a great beer and for the first time, you can save yourself the drive and buy Ice Axe in 22-ounce bottles ($5.99) at Zupan’s. Sometimes, progress is wonderful. iceaxegrill.com zupans.com — John Foyston

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Korkage Wine Bar & Shop Enjoy live music and wine tasting in an intimate setting, featuring local boutique wineries and selected picks from around the World. The Korkage Chef, former instructor at a top hospitality school, offers gourmet small bite and wine pairings and expert wine consults - you can be confident you’ll find just the right bottle for any event!

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Food Front Cooperative Grocery in Hillsdale offers the most delicious and fresh local groceries in town. From farm-direct, local and organic produce to artisan breads, cheeses, microbrews and fine wines, you’re sure to leave with a basket full of unforgettable local flavor. Food Front’s deli serves up homemade sandwiches, soups & sides, and the full service meat & seafood counter offers high quality sustainable meat cuts and an array of wild caught sustainable seafood. Eat Colorfully, Live Vibrantly at Food Front Co-Op. Open 8am-9pm Daily.

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Hillsdale Farmers Market SW Portland’s year-round source for produce, cheeses, meats, eggs and more. Open Sundays 10am-2pm in the Wilson High-Rieke Elementary parking lot, 1405 SW Vermont St. Parking entrance at SW Capitol Hwy and SW Sunset Blvd. Weekly cooking demonstrations through November 18. Debit, credit and EBT cards accepted. Market runs weekly May 6-Nov 18, Dec 2, 16.

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starters, cont.

download this: Chefs feed app

read this: the oregonian Cookbook you might consider this a shameless plug, but I think you should consider it an insider tip. I’ve been on staff at The Oregonian long enough to be intimately familiar with the majority of the recipes in this book, and I can safely say each one is a solid winner. Sourced from some of the best cooks in the state, including award-winning cookbook authors and chefs, the recipes have appeared in the pages of Foodday at one time or another over the past 30 years or so. To make it into the newspaper, the recipes had to be damn good. But to make it through food editor Katherine Miller’s rigorous curating process for this book, they had to be great. The result is over 350 tried-and-true, top-notch recipes — and a book that is bound to get a thorough workout in your kitchen. $29.95 at various stores including Powell’s, Fred Meyer and amazon.com — Danielle Centoni

When it comes to deciding on the perfect restaurant for a hot date, don’t you wish you could just call up gabe Rucker and ask him where he goes to impress his lady? Or, when you’re driving down 82nd Avenue, wouldn’t it be great to text Andy Ricker and ask him where to find the best bún bo hue? Well, now you can look up the personal favorite dishes of the city’s best chefs with the Chefs Feed iPhone app, which just launched a Portland version. With this free download, you can search by chef, neighborhood, type of cuisine, price and even what’s open now. Plus, it includes everything from high end (John gorham loves the filet mignon at El gaucho) to food carts (Jason French stuffs his pie hole at The Pie Spot). With city versions for places like New york, San Francisco, Chicago and Seattle, plus many more on the way, this will be your hand-held resource for where and what to eat when you travel, too. chefsfeed.com — Andrea Slonecker

tasty tours eat adventures If you’re anticipating a full house of guests for the holidays, take a break from playing host and send them off on an epicurean tour of Oregon. Angie Johnson and Allen Jones of Eat Adventures will pick them up at any downtown hotel for a full-day eating expedition to the coast, mountains or wine country. Each of the three tour options gives attendees the opportunity to meet some of the chefs, winemakers, brewers and food artisans that are making our state a gastronomic mecca. A trip to the gorge might include a visit to Pfriem Family Brewers in hood River followed by bites at the regionally acclaimed restaurant Nora’s Table. And even with up to seven stops for tasting and learning, there’s still time to explore the scenery along the route. eatadventures.com; 503-928-7988 — Andrea Slonecker

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EAT Best bar snacks Most of our favorite restaurants take their drink lists as seriously as their food. So it’s not uncommon to belly up to the bar for a great meal. Still, what if you just want a drink and a salty snack? Are you doomed to bowls of stale pretzels and baskets of fries? Not in the least. We’ve picked 10 of our favorite bar snacks that we can’t stop craving. These little bites — and the top-notch tipples they’re served with — make bar-hopping in PDX a truly gastronomical affair. Smoked Trout Board at Saraveza You’ll come for the beer — there are a whopping 250 types of bottled beer and nine cult microbrews on tap, but you’ll stay for the food. Chef Nick Campion makes a mean pasty (meat and vegetable turnover), but it’s the smoked trout board that steals the show. Delicate house-smoked trout fillets share real estate with homemade cracker sheets, a wedge of brie, caperstudded remoulade, and a generous pile of pickles, including melt-in-your mouth pickled saffron onions. It’s one of the toniest snacks in town, at one of the homiest bars this side of the Midwest. 1004 N. Killingsworth St., 503-206-4252, saraveza.com

— Ivy Manning

Pretzel Board at Beaker and Flask At Beaker and Flask, glistening soft pretzel sticks are baked daily in house. This is an impressive feat given that the yeasted dough must be shaped by hand, dipped in a baking soda bath and then par-baked to develop the characteristic minerality and leathery exterior that is unique to this German bread. When you place your order, they place three sticks in the oven to finish crisping the crust, taking it to that genuine, deep-brown color. Consider these the perfect bar snack, served on a rustic wooden board with tangy aquavit-spiked mustard and a small glass of beer to wash them down. Prost! 727 S.E. Washington St., 503-235-8180, beakerandflask.com

— Andrea Slonecker

Saraveza Deviled Quail Eggs at Sauvage This fetching, new, brick-walled Southeast enopub’s name reflects owner/winemaker/chef Jesse Skiles’ commitment to native wild yeasts and spontaneous fermentation. But his menu mirrors the CIA-trained, jack-of-all-culinary-trades’ affinity for what he dubs “modern farmhouse cuisine.” The menu is full of elegantly rustic dishes like the kumquat-sized deviled quail eggs fortified with rendered foie gras and served atop a ruddy dusting of piment d’Esplette and Maldon sea salt. Pair them with one

of the 50-plus Euro-centric glass pours on the sustainable, organic and biodynamically focused wine list, or keep things inhouse with the Fausse Piste Viognier, made in Skiles’ adjoining winery. Keep in mind there’s virtually no signage here, so look closely for the address and trust that good things await behind the nondescript door. 537 S.E. Ash. St., 503-807-5565, sauvagepdx.com — Jen Stevenson

PhotogrAPh (Above) by fAIth cAthcArt, (rIght) by leAh nASh

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bar snacks, cont.

Pickle Jar at 2nd Story

2nd Story

Influenced by childhood canning sessions with her grandmother and an organic farming apprenticeship rife with “weird hippie fermentation projects,” chef/ owner Erin McBride is mad for all things preserved, as evidenced by the gorgeously presented pickle jar at her cozy Southeast hideaway. The one constant is beet pickles made from McBride’s grandmother’s recipe, but otherwise you’ll get whatever’s pulled from the pantry that day, be it heirloom carrots with hot chiles, gingery baby turnips, herb-infused chard stems, curried cauliflower, or good old zucchini bread and butters. Alternately sweet, salty, sour and spicy, this briny bar staple stands up particularly well to a Belgian-style draft from neighboring craft brewer The Commons, or the bar’s Big Easy Sazerac. 2005 S.E. 11th Ave., 503-741-9693, 2ndstorypdx.com — Jen Stevenson

Fried Kale at Smallwares and Barwares At her design-driven Asian-inspired Beaumont eateries, Barwares and Smallwares, chef Johanna Ware fries kale, tempura style, for a surprising departure from the usual kale presentations around town. Candied Benton’s bacon, fresh cilantro and mint and a fish sauce vinaigrette complete a dangerously addictive snack that cries for a cold draft beer. If you’re looking to splurge, upgrade that beer to an earthy and refreshing sake like Watari Bune Junmai Ginjo “55.” It’s Ware’s idea of the perfect pairing. 4605 N.E. Fremont St., 971-229-0995, smallwarespdx.com

barwares

— Ashley gartland

Slaw Dog at Aviary Those accustomed to this sleek Alberta supper spot’s refined, exquisitely crafted, Asian-influenced small plates might not expect to see a rowdy-sounding slaw dog on the menu, especially one with a suggested pairing of an Old German tallboy. But in the minimalist back bar, that’s exactly what you’ll get — a slender house-smoked frankfurter tucked into a pillowy Franz bun with house-made bread and butter pickles and a mound of PhotogrAPhy by MotoyA nAKAMurA

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Aviary

Entertain with confidences. tangy cabbage, carrot and dill slaw that drips merrily out the sides, shattering any pretensions. The even better news? The slaw dog/Old German combo is just $7 at happy hour, and $5 all night on “Classy Mondays.” 1733 N.E. Alberta St., 503-287-2400, aviarypdx.com —Jen Stevenson

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Fried oysters at The Parish Seeking sea-salt bliss? Bite into a fried oyster from The Parish, the second outpost from the EaT Oyster Bar duo. Even purists will fall for these plump Yaquina Bay oysters, fried to a golden crisp. Each nibble is a trifecta of salt, crunch and oceanic goodness. The sauce on the side, a zippy rémouladeaioli cross, bursts with umami flavor. Owner Ethan Powell named the irresistible condiment “Come Back Sauce” because after diners eat it, they want to come back again and again. Paired with one of the best bubbly deals in town — a split of Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut — it only gets better on Sundays, when local jazz legend Reggie Houston plays poetry on his saxophone. 231 N.W. 11th Ave., 503-227-2421, theparishpdx.com

BridgePort Ale House isn’t the first place you look for inspired Asian food, but at the established Hawthorne hangout, new chef Jun Robles is drawing from his Asian American background to put some unexpected touches on the menu. Take the chef ’s rice pops, an addictive salty-sweet snack that goes great with the brewery’s golden IPA. The lightly fried nuggets arrive at the table cloaked in an XO-based sauce that gets its depth of flavor from fermented black beans, chile paste, honey, soy sauce and vinegar. The bar bite is loud and can be a bit polarizing, but those who like these “Asian tots” will appreciate the big flavors — and have trouble sharing the bowl. 3632 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., 503-233-6540, bridgeportbrew.com — Ashley gartland

B A B E T T E S F. C O M

rice Pops at BridgePort Ale House

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Need we say more?

bar snacks, cont.

Goat cheese Dome at Bar Vivant Pix Patisserie is back, but with a bonus — a Spanish tapas bar replete with a giant wall of wine and a lengthy menu of bite-size snacks perfectly speared with toothpicks. The offerings are soundly rooted in Spanish tradition, from the bacalao-stuffed piquillo peppers to the Iberico ham sliced to order. But you’ll also find a few Northwest twists and some French inspiration, too (it is Pix, after all). Try the Goat Cheese Dome — a three-tiered stack starting with a slice of Olympic Provisions chorizo, a butterynutty square of Ossau-Iraty, topped with a bright green seared Padrón pepper. It’s zesty and creamy, earthy and subtly spicy. Pair it with a glass of bubbly or a flight of sherry (the lists for both rival the best in town). Or try a glass of the very food-friendly Txakoli, a light and slightly spritzy Basque wine, flamboyantly poured from a dramatic height. 2225 E. Burnside, Portland, 971-271-7166, pixpatisserie.com — Kerry newberry

Sopaipillas at Xico When your dining room’s centerpiece is a stunning marble-topped bar, it’s only fitting that it be accompanied by equally show-stopping bar snacks. This upscale new Division Street cantina obliges with vibrant, full-flavored small plates like sopaipillas (New Mexican-style fry bread) served puffed and golden with a silky mixture of melted Muenster and Sonoran refried beans flecked with spicy housemade chorizo (add the Hatch green chile

bar vivant sauce for extra heat). These palm-sized pillows possess “alcohol-absorbing” properties, according to executive chef Kelly Myers, who likes to nibble an order at the bar after a long shift. So be sure to sip the earthy, herbaceous Wahaka Joven

Tobala mezcal – one of eight offerings – alongside. 3715 SE Division St.; 503-548-6343; xicopdx.com — Jen Stevenson £

PhotogrAPh by Kerry neWberry

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Convenient Convenient Convenient Convenient

Location Location Location Location

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drink New gin with an old soul By Paul Clarke

hese have been awkward times for the dry gin martini. Recent years have seen a mostly American crew of startup distillers tinkering with gin’s identity, dialing back juniper’s prominence and adding off-beat botanicals like rose petals. These “new Western” gins have provided a novel and often interesting experience for drinkers, but they’ve also confounded devotees of classic gin cocktails, who occasionally find the new gins unsuitable for their longpreferred recipes. For Wildwood bartender and distiller Ryan Csanky, the martini still matters. This fall, Csanky and longtime business partner Erik Martin introduced Aria Gin, a spirit designed in the familiar English style, marking a departure from recent trends in the realm of American gins. “I really love some of those nontraditional, ‘New Western’ gins, but what was missing was a classic-style gin that’s locally made and craft-distilled,” Csanky says. “Something with depth, balance and complexity, that’s juniper-forward in flavor.” Csanky and Martin are no novices to the spirits world; Csanky has been tending bar for 15 years, and the duo helmed Artisan Spirits during its threeyear run from 2007 until 2010. Csanky describes Aria, which is distilled at Bull Run Distilling, as a hybrid between two venerable styles of gin: the assertive, juniper-forward London Dry style and the earthy, citrus-tinged Plymouth style. The result is a gin that’s crisp and assertive, with a juniper bite, a smooth, lasting spiciness and a bright, citrusy aroma. “There are 10 ingredients, and all of them are things that would be found in classic gins,” Csanky says. “There’s nothing nontraditional about it.” october 2012 MIXpdX.coM

gin, cont. three more to try Hayman’s “Royal Dock” Navy Strength Gin: a recent entry to the american market, Hayman’s traces its heritage to 1863, when it was first created near london. Hayman’s “royal Dock” has a dry, spice-riddled character rendered particularly assertive by the gin’s “Navy Strength” potency — a whopping 114 proof, which produces a full-flavored (not to mention especially rugged) martini or Negroni. Citadelle Gin: Gin’s history is dominated by the Dutch and the english, and recently americans have laid claim to the category, but Citadelle is proof that the French can also produce spectacular gin. Made in the Cognac region using a lengthy list of ingredients — including classic gin botanicals as well as violet root, cubeb pepper and fennel — Citadelle is crisp and ethereal, with a floral aroma and an earthy flavor that still works extraordinarily well in classic gin cocktails. Small’s American Dry Gin: Made by ransom distillery in the Willamette Valley town of Sheridan, Small’s is fragrant with cardamom, and the spice is powerful in the flavor as well, though touches of juniper, raspberry and anise keep the gin from being a one-botanical wonder. It’s truly distinctive — which means it may not be the best choice for many classic gin cocktails — but for drinkers curious about this whole “New Western” gin thing, Small’s offers a memorable introduction.

ryan Csanky (left) and erik Martin first entered the distilling world in 2007 with their now-defuct artisan Spirits label. They’re back this fall with a new company, Martin ryan Distilling, and a new spirit, aria Gin. PHOTOGraPH By rOSS WIllIaM HaMIlTON

A few other West Coast distillers have similarly resisted the anythinggoes New Western approach. Junipero Gin, from San Franciscobased Anchor Distilling, has a potent backbone of juniper against a rich undercurrent of licorice root. Voyager Gin, made near Seattle, is an austere juniper-forward gin with a lemon-zest fragrance and a lingering cardamom finish. Csanky says there’s still much to love about New Western gins, but

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that Aria Gin is meant to appeal to a clientele already accustomed to the brisk flavor of traditional English gins — particularly fans of that most dogmatic of classic cocktails. “A lot of the New Western-style gins don’t necessarily make a great martini,” he says. “We want to make a classic martini gin, a gin-lover’s gin — we’re not trying to convince vodka drinkers to drink gin. This is for people who love gin, and want something local and handcrafted.”

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Gin Glossary The world of gin can be confusing at times, and as more brands show up in stores, curious tipplers could use a little help. Here’s a basic guide to the current categories of gin.

London Dry: exemplified by major British brands such as Tanqueray and Beefeater, london Dry gin ruled the 20th-century cocktail, and is still the most prominent style found in bars. as the name suggests, it’s crisp and dry, and juniper stands front and center of both aroma and flavor, usually accented with ingredients such as cardamom and lemon peel. It’s the preferred style for gin & tonics, and it all but owns the martini.

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Plymouth: Plymouth is both a legally defined category of gin (named for the english city of Plymouth, its required place of manufacture) and the name of the sole brand that represents the category. Plymouth gin is crisp, earthy and dry, with touches of citrus and savory spices that make it excellent in a martini, as well as in big-flavored cocktails such as the Negroni. Old Tom: Before there was london Dry, there was Old Tom, a style immensely popular in the 19th century, and almost forgotten during the 20th. It’s similar to london Dry, though sweeter and with a different balance of botanicals that creates a more floral, savory flavor. Old Tom works well with complex, nuanced ingredients such as sweet vermouth and herbal liqueurs. Try it in a Martinez — a predecessor of the martini, made with sweet vermouth and maraschino liqueur — or mix it in a Tom Collins for a horse-and-buggy take on a familiar classic. Genever: This is the ancestral eve of gin, the spirit that spread from Holland in the 18th century and that begat Old Tom, london Dry and the rest. Genever nearly disappeared from the u.S., but it has made a comeback in today’s craft-cocktail bars. rich and malty, with an earthy blend of botanicals, it has an almost whiskey-like flavor that works best in lightly adorned drinks such as the Holland Gin Cocktail. Bols Genever is the most prominent brand. New Western: This catch-all (and sometimes disputed) term for the various brands of gin that have emerged in the past couple of decades includes many from the u.S. as well as gins from the u.k. and other european countries. examples include Hendrick’s from Scotland and local brands such as Portland’s aviation and Seattle’s ebb & Flow. These gins tend to pull back on juniper’s presence, boosting botanicals such as citrus peel or spices into the forefront. The botanicals vary widely, from lavender to apple, so the flavors of these gins are all over the map. Some work well in classic cocktails, while others just taste peculiar. This is the direction gin is headed, at least for now. Proceed with curiosity, and with caution. £ october 2012 MIXpdX.coM

drink / technique

Shake it or stir it: Mastering cocktail basics with Wafu’s Becca June By kAT veTrAno / PHoToGrAPHy By DoUG BeGHTel

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Becca June may love taking risks as bar manager at Wafu — she’s currently working on a bloody mary that includes fish sauce and soy sauce — but she also knows how to value tradition. The Wafu bar program respects Japanese cocktail rituals like the “hard shake” (a special way to shake that hits four specific points in the air), and the Japanese stir — precisely 17 turns around the inside of the glass. Knowing when to shake and when to stir — and how to do both properly — is the foundation of good mixology. June

says whether a cocktail should be shaken or stirred is based on the ingredients. “Stirred drinks are more spirit-driven (like a Negroni). They’re bitter and a little boozy, like me.” Shaken drinks, she says, have ingredients that should be emulsified a bit, like juices and egg whites. That’s not to say that shaken drinks are supposed to be candy in a glass, though. “One question I get a lot is, ‘Is this drink really sweet?’ My answer is no, and nor should it be. You should be striving to balance the flavors.”

Pro tiPS  As in cooking, tasting as you go is crucial to the drink-making process. Taste before you add ice to the mixture (also known as “starting dry”), and after shaking or stirring.

 Speaking of starting dry, make sure to start any kind of cocktail this way. Building a drink liquids-first (like you would in a smoothie) rather than ice first, is a great way to ensure you’re getting proportions correct.

 Before you start mixing, make sure the glassware is at the ready and cold so your drink doesn’t dilute or warm up in the time it takes you to find a glass.  Use jiggers for exact measurements and to ensure balance.

Stir 1. Use a short, non-tapered vase, metal cheaters tin or pint glass. Teardrop bar spoons are excellent for stirring because the long, delicate handle allows for a controlled stir. 2. Fill the glass ¾ full with ice. The size of the cube does not matter too much, though they shouldn’t be larger than ¾ inch for the ideal dilution.

3. Stir around the ice along the inside of the glass, so you’re turning the ice, not crushing or banging it, which can overdilute the drink. Stir for a minimum of 30 seconds; 45-60 seconds is ideal. The best way to know your cocktail is done is simply by tasting it — only you can determine what the proper balance of your drink is. 4. Strain into chilled glassware and serve

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 The smaller the ice, the less time you will need to stir or shake your drink, because the ice will melt faster.  Go watch a respected bartender’s shaking stance if you want to get better at your technique.

 Hawthorne strainers (which have a spring) are your best bet for straining most drinks. However, a Julep strainer usually fits better if you’ve built your drink in a glass. The main difference between the two is fit—but both accomplish

the same goal, which is to leave muddled fruits, herbs and ice out of your drink. If the drink has a lot of solids, you can double strain by holding a fine-mesh sieve over the glassware as you strain sthe drink into it. £

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Shake shake to turn the ice, not just move it from 1. Use a 20-ounce metal shaker and a metal 16-ounce “cheaters tin” or pint glass one end of the shaker to the other. Becca’s favorite technique is the double shake, for the top. 2. Fill the shaker 2⁄3 to ¾ full with ice. (The where you alternate between shaking high size isn’t crucial; though the smaller the ice and low, with a small bounce in between. Don’t shake longer than 20 seconds. is, the less time you should shake, because When the outside of the tin has collected it will melt faster than a bigger cube.) condensation, you’re done. 3. Hit the top of the cheaters tin or pint 5. Hold the shaker in one hand, and use glass with the heel of your hand to ensure the heel of your other hand to sharply hit a tight seal before shaking. (To make sure the seam where the tin/pint glass is flush she has a seal, Becca will shake the shaker with the shaker. The seal will break and once to her side to see if any liquid comes the tin/pint glass should release easily. out). 6. Strain into chilled glassware and serve. 4. Shake as hard as you possibly can, and

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drink

Wines that blur the line between white and red By kAThErINE cOLE PhOTOgrAPhy By fAITh cAThcArT

oundary-breaking. Categorybusting. Gender-bending. Whatever you want to call it, it’s happening in the wine world. Last month in MIX, we contemplated “orange wines,” made from white grapes but copper in color. And now we’re considering the flip side of the coin: White wines made from red grapes. (To make an orange wine, let your white grapes and juice all macerate together for as long as possible. To make a white red wine, separate the red grape skins from their juice as soon as possible. Got that? Good.) And now for nomenclature. Because “white red wine” is too confusing and “white wine made from red grapes” too wordy, I suggest we go with the poetic simplicity of the romance languages: “blanc de noir,” or “nero bianco.” (In Europe, the wine might be “red,” but the grapes are referred to as “black.”) But you won’t need a working knowledge of Italian or French to get a load of this trend, because the biggest boom in nero bianco is happening right here on our home turf, where the winemakers of the Willamette Valley are crossing the line between white and red.

A LocAL LAcK oF coLor Whatever the reason, the first Willamette Valley wine to make a big splash in the nero bianco category

Is a white wine from red grapes even possible? As several Willamette Valley vintners are proving, it’s not only possible, it’s delicious. Trouble is, no one seems to know how wines in this experimental category are supposed to taste. The bottles our panel tasted at Oregon Wines on Broadway (left) ran the gamut from candy-like to buttery to sharply acidic.

MIXpdX.coM october 2012

ine

CASA DE LE

M TA

was Domaine Serene’s “Coeur Kate bolling, Blanc,” or owner, Oregon “White Heart.” Wines on Broadway, It brought oregonwines the national onbroadway.com spotlight to this winemakJessica Hereth, wine ing style when, director, Olympic Provisions Southeast, in 2009, the olympicprovisions.com winery’s owners sued a former Grant butler, critic-at- winemaker large, The Oregonian for — so they & MIX, oregonian.com claimed — stealing the seKatherine cole, wine columnist, The Orego- cret formula for nian & MIX, katherine- blanc de noir. The suit was cole.com silly, because there are no proprietary secrets to the process of making white wine from red grapes. It’s been done for centuries in Champagne, where a translucent “blanc de noirs” is made from pinot noir and pinot meunier. The winemaker simply presses the juice off the skins as soon as the grapes roll in the door of the winery; no skin contact means no color. At any rate, the trend has spread like wildfire since then. The 2010 and 2011 vintages were especially suited to whitewine production, spurring many curious vintners to give nero bianco a try. Marcus Goodfellow, winemaker at Matello, was one of these. “I had been exposed to a couple of German versions,” he told me. “But I was also exploring the concept of flavor being derived from juice or skin. I really wanted to explore how the flavors from pinot noir wouldbe different when produced as white, rosé or red wine. Next year, we will probably take a barrel of rosé and age it just to see what the differences are. It’s just filling my own gaps in knowledge.” PANELISTS

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wine, cont.

tHe oUtLIerS As Goodfellow’s comments suggest, we’re still in the experimental phase of nero bianco production. On the one hand, there are the feather-light, tart and bright wines that, at around 12 percent alcohol by volume, are best suited for raw seafood, cocktail hour or the salad course. When our panel met at Oregon Wines on Broadway, we tasted a decent example of this from Arcane Cellars ($21). And we could have sworn that J. Christopher’s entry ($30) was a sauvignon blanc. (While Wines on Broadway owner Kate Bolling loved this style, the rest of us deemed these wines too “white.” Even if we couldn’t see the red, we wanted to taste it.) At the other end of the spectrum were the rich and opulent entries, with fancy names and high price tags. Erath’s “Le Jour Magique” ($55) tasted like coconut sun-tanning oil and candy corn to Jessica Hereth, wine director at Olympic Provisions. The “Prismé” from Anne Amie Vineyards ($45) was rich, spicy and powerful. And the Domaine Serene “Coeur Blanc” ($85) had a viscous, vanilla-syrup

quality. If you’re a fan of plush chardonnays, you’ll love these wines. And as critic Grant Butler pointed out, they might just be the perfect match for fettucine alfredo. Finally, there were the head-scratchers. The Leah Jorgensen Cellars “Les Collines Vineyard” Walla Walla Blanc de Cabernet Franc ($30) is a new release from a startup winemaker and was the only white cab franc in our lineup. We found it nutty and slightly sweet; Butler suggested that it would pair well with cinnamon-rubbed pork and apple compote. If you see this

oddball on a wine list, give it a try. And Matello’s “Red Grape, White Juice” reminded us of apple taffy and peach iced tea. It was floral and tart, with a slightly rosy tint —intriguing stuff. But would we pay $42 for a bottled curiosity? The Old World makes nero bianco, too. An offbeat French wine was one of our faves, and we enjoyed tasting examples from Italy and Corsica, although neither of these made it to our list of standouts. The Italian was inexpensive at $18, but fell apart in the glass. And the Corsican wine just didn’t

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costly. “Unfortunately, there is a dichotomy between what people expect white wine to cost and what pinot noir costs,” Goodfellow lamented. “Most pinot noir takes a certain amount of careful handling, and then with the white wines, we spend a lot of time trying to draw the fermentation out longer. Someone fermenting in larger containers than I am for shorter periods of time has one twentieth of the production costs I have, making 50 cases that are barrel-fermented over 18 months. There is a lot more mother-hen-clucking and fussing over this wine.” bowl us over for its $72 price tag. Herein lies the problem with nero bianco: We aren’t ready to pay Grand Cru white Burgundy prices for an unproven, quirky category. “For these wines, that is a crazy amount of money,” huffed an outraged Bolling when she saw the aforementioned $72 price tag. “These don’t seem like wines you are going to want to cellar. I wouldn’t want to spend more than $20 on any of them.” I asked Goodfellow, the winemaker at Matello, about pricing since we had been intrigued by his wine but deemed it too

tHe QUeStIoN oF StYLe What is a white red wine supposed to taste like? No one seems to know. Our tasting notes covered a gamut of ageinappropriate flavors, from cotton candy, Smarties and SweetTarts to candy corn and marshmallow Fluff. Some of the pinot noirs were made in the style of a high-end chardonnay: creamy, viscous and butterscotch-like thanks to the use of French oak, which tended to add to the price tag. Others went

an entirely different direction, featherweight in body and sharp-edged in acidity. We were divided over these; Bolling loved them while Butler generally disliked them. As we finished our tasting, Hereth threw up her hands. “It’s going to be hard to sell people on the geek factor alone,” she pointed out. “For all the esoteric winemaking there is, esoteric is no excuse for lack of quality. There is clearly a lack of direction in all of these wines.” “I’ll be curious to see if this trend develops,” remarked Bolling. “I think the wines will become more interesting and less expensive if this really takes hold.” Until that happens, nero bianco, or blanc de noir, or white red, will be a party trick — something to pull out for the company when all the other vinous possibilities have been exhausted.

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wine, cont.

Shouldis works with a beautiful section of vineyard that’s just too young, in her opinion, to make great red pinot noir. And so she presses the juice off the skins and puts the wine through a long, cold fermentation in steel tanks, allowing it to rest on the lees for six months. The result: A wine our group could agree on. With that wonderful leesy texture but no oak influence, this bottle got Bolling’s seal of approval — she described the Ghost Hill as “balanced” — while Butler praised it as a “good food-pairing choice.” I found its citrus, brine and rosehip notes incredibly appealing. And for $22, this one is a no-brainer for that next dinner party. (P.S.: It costs $25 at the winery, so buy it in town.)

APerItIF WortH DetoUrING For 2011 WillaKenzie estate “estate Grown” Willamette Valley blanc de Pinots ($25) Time out for some winecountry gossip: WillaKenzie winemaker Thibaud Mandet dates Ghost Hill winemaker Rebecca Pittock Shouldis. And although the two claim not to discuss work with one another (and, just for the record, Shouldis made hers first), they both keep their nero bianco away from oak barrels and use lees for texture, a methodology that worked for our group. Mandet’s white is a blend of pinot noir, pinot meunier and gamay noir. It’s a bit more tart and dry; with its notes of green apple and chalk and a hint of spritz, it would make a suitable aperitif or salad-course pairing. PINot GrIS StAND-IN 2011 J. Scott cellars “blanc de Noirs” oregon White Wine ($21) This appealing white was lush and silky on the palate, with notes of lemon curd and grapefruit. Many local winemakers seem to be emulating chardonnay, but

we liked the pinot gris-like combination of “oily texture and ripping acidity,” as Hereth put it, in the J. Scott. Winemaker Jonathan Oberlander tells me he was inspired by the cool temperatures of the 2011 growing season to give this style of wine a try, and was able to keep costs down by exchanging wine for fruit with the grower. He followed classic “Champagne protocol,” pressing the grapes so gently that the skins don’t break, then stirred the lees frequently while the wine sat in stainless-steel tanks, to smooth out the mouth feel. Butler gave the resulting wine a thumbs-up, calling it “approachable” and “a crowdpleaser.” Bolling wasn’t a fan, however.

GeeK’S DeLIGHt 2010 Domaine de l’octavin “cul rond à la cuisse rosé” Arbois Poulsard ($21) Where to begin with this “weird but delicious” wine, as Hereth described it? Arbois is a winegrowing appellation in Jura, that chilly borderland where eastern France embraces Switzerland. Poulsard is an indigenous red grape of the region that has traditionally been vinified into white wines due to the fact that its thin skins don’t leach much color. And Domaine de l’Octavin is one of those fashionable “natural” wine producers, farming biodynamically and swearing off that basic wine preservative, sulfur. The result: A rosetinted white, just 11 percent alcohol by volume, that reminded us of Flemish red ale, kombucha, apple cider, nectarine and berries. This wine is not for everyone, but if your social circle embraces the intellectual and obscure, you might want to bring this one to a party — because you’re not going to want to drink the whole thing yourself. £

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Farmers and chefs are tied to their work in ways most nine-to-fivers canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t imagine. When Trevor Baird, Elias Cairo, Tyler Gaston and Eric Moore need to recharge, they take off for a weekend fishing trip on the Metolius river, bringing along fabulous food and drinks, of course.

get together

Wine, Waders and Whiskey

When chefs go fly fishing, dinner at the cabin is anything but rustic Come oCtober, when autumn Crisps

the air, and the maple and aspen leaves are stained crimson and amber, there’s quite possibly no more beautiful, serene locale in the pacific northwest than central oregon’s majestic metolius river. this bewitchingly curvy, watery goddess wends nearly 30 miles from the headwaters at metolius springs to Lake billy Chinook. along the way the river creeps through idyllic Camp sherman (population: 376), a mishmash of old-fashioned cabins, friendly folk and fir trees as far as the eye can see. it’s the ideal wilderness getaway for a group of kitchen-weary chefs and farmers seeking respite from double-digit workdays behind hot stoves, smokers and sausage grinders. armed with fly rods, waders and plenty of tippet — as well as enough food, wine and whiskey to feed and souse an army — they’ve traveled three hours from portland via gently undulating back roads for fresh air, the challenge of cunning prey and, ultimately, an incomparable meal.

By jen stevenson Photography by DAvID ReAMeR

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starters, cont.

as this brisk, beautiful october morning blooms, the Camp sherman general store is sunday-sleepy, patronized exclusively by a few locals sipping black coffee and an affable Labrador named Jim. with its vintage coolers stacked with cold beer, a well-stocked fishing section and pay phone that’s not just for nostalgia’s sake (cell service is nonexistent here), this quaint market is the hub of metolius river society, and the ideal (read: only) spot to stock up on lastminute fishing trip essentials. i’m supposed to meet Victory bar and Free house chef/owner eric moore, olympic provisions salumist elias Cairo and co-owner tyler Gaston, and baird Family Farms owner/farmer trevor baird here at 9 a.m. Knowing them like i do, i take a hike and come back around 10 a.m. to find … nobody. an 36

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investigation of the store’s fishing aisle turns up trevor, who, in true intrepid fisherman style, left at 5 a.m. to make the drive from his orchards in Dayton. but the portland crew doesn’t appear for another hour, finally rolling into the parking lot at 11 a.m. in a battered white van bearing a “my name is remington” sticker and a decal of a skull with crossed fishing poles instead of bones. excuses fly — they had to stop for breakfast, calls of nature and to forage chanterelles for dinner. but eventually the real reason for their tardiness emerges. “we forgot the wine,” tyler explains sheepishly. “we were 30 minutes out, but we had to go back.” “You forgot your wife?” trevor queries. “i thought we weren’t supposed to bring them.”

“the wine,” someone clarifies. “way worse.” weaving their way past now-awake tourists buying fresh maple bars and lattes, the gang queues up for an intense consultation with the market’s resident fishing adviser, poring over the handcrafted flies and fluidly exchanging insider banter about leader and split shot while they wait their turn. after picking up a few necessities and tips, they head back to remington and begin the involved process of suiting up for the river. sweatshirts come off, revealing a sea of tattoos that draw a few double takes from passers-by, and intense negotiations begin. as it turns out, men preparing to fly fish are very much like teenage girls at a slumber party. the guys exchange thermals and flannels, borrow fishing hats from each other, brag about the

Where to stay Metolius river Lodge cabins These rustic river-hugging cabins are a throwback to childhood summer camp, but with more refined amenities, like private decks and Jacuzzi tubs. If you want to re-create the guys’ fishing trip experience, book the Royal Wulff — a two bedroom, two-bath charmer with river views from every room and plenty of space in the kitchen for all of your whiskey. metoliusriverlodges.com, 800-595-6290

Lake creek Lodge Just a couple of miles from the Camp Sherman store, this homey, family-friendly resort maintains a small stable of comfortably quaint cabins overlooking lovely Lake Creek, a fully loaded rec room and a stocked trout pond for pint-sized fisherpeople-in-training. I stayed in Cabin 7, a cozy cubby complete with fireplace and scenic deck. lakecreeklodge.com, 541-516-3030

black butte ranch deals they got on new waders (“30 percent off and i had a $20 off coupon!” someone crows), and deeply debate a very serious decision — jeans or tights. “Jeans are going to be so uncomfortable,” eli agonizes. “Just wear tights,” eric suggests. eli narrows his eyes at him. “since when have i ever made fun of you?” eric asks innocently. “Does anyone remember where the hole in my waders is?” asks trevor. “somewhere near the ankle,” eli reminds him. tyler peers with obvious concern at the hard-won box of wine sitting in the car. “should i put the wine in my waders to cool it?” he asks. Vests are donned, jackets are zipped and pockets are stuffed with liquid “provisions.” “pass the flask,” someone hollers. “and let’s do this!”

it’s GeneraLLY Known that unwinding isn’t usually a tranquil endeavor when it comes to cooks, but that’s hardly the case for this group as they confront the river. upon reaching the bank, everyone instantly adopts laser focus and b-2 spirit-like stealth, wordlessly fanning out over the picturesque river, each staking their claim to a swath of the pristine waters. after slowly wading into the current, they silently, methodically cast, re-cast, cast again and wait, then repeat. as the sun drops behind the shimmering aspen dotting the riverbank and the sky blushes a bright streaky pink, the metolius’ steady purr is punctuated by the heavy plops of fat native trout leaping in pursuit of their dinner. they live up to their elusive reputation, and after hours of standing knee-deep in the chilly waters, the boys have landed just a few small specimens, all thrown back. trevor catches the day’s prize — a 9-inch trout — which is

Once summer throngs retreat and the aspen groves work their magic, Black Butte is the height of autumn beauty and serenity. Sit on the porch of your townhouse with a glass of wine and stunning views of all three Sisters peaks, then take a leisurely bike ride around the working ranch. I highly recommend reserving Country House 71 — views and wildlife-watching are unparalleled, and the cozy pub is but a five-minute walk. blackbutteranch.com, 541-595-1252

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praised, photographed and returned to its home. reluctantly retiring for the day, the guys trudge back to the car, passing the market’s fishing expert en route. even he has landed only one fish. Fortunately, coming up fishless has no impact on supper. since the metolius is a federally protected catch-and-release river, its slippery inhabitants are legally spared a sizzling end in a cast iron skillet. with this in mind, the guys have designed a menu honoring both the sanctity of the river and the season: cauliflower soup with cured salmon roe; roasted root vegetable salad with chanterelles; wild salmon over lentils with fresh horseradish cream; a hearty choucroute garni; and a golden-crusted, mile-high apple pie baked by olympic provisions pastry chef amelia Lane, plated a la mode with her homemade maple ice cream. when they arrive at the quaint riverfront cabin, unloading the car proves no 38

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easy feat. remington is weighted down with what is, predictably, no ordinary “weekend at the cabin” feast: coolers filled with cured and fresh meats, glistening produce from saturday’s portland Farmers market, and perhaps most important — a large crate clinking with bottles of beautiful French and oregon wines. each is matched to a course by olympic provisions/Clyde Common wine director star black, who, clearly knowing her clientele, sent it off with a sagely realistic blessing: “have fun, catch a fish and don’t get too (messed) up ... or do.” Finally, four bottles of whiskey materialize — one per fisherman, presumably. in the KitChen, tYLer pours tumblers of fresh-pressed cider from trevor’s heirloom cider apple orchards and spikes them with house spirits Distillery’s slab town whiskey. he then

opens a bottle of Domaine tempier bandol rosé and teutonic wine Company’s pinot noir rosé for good measure, while eli slices up an olympic provisions salchichon salami and sets out a bowl of pistachios. the guys relish the simple snack as they swap stories about the one that got away, which are soon eclipsed by the tale of an angry beaver that chased eli out of the river. eventually, the volley of jokes evoked by the beaver attack wanes, and talk turns to the most crucial of subjects — dinner. eli swings a heavy sack of oysters into the sink. “those oysters aren’t going to shuck themselves,” he informs the group. after making sure a bottle of marienoelle Ledru rosé Champagne is chilling properly (in ice, not his waders), tyler shucks dozens of Kusshi, tillamook and Yaquina bay oysters from newman’s Fish market. trevor mixes another round of whiskey ciders, and eli and eric take

Baird’s Cider

to the stove, easily falling into the effortless kitchen tandem the childhood best friends developed while working a three-year apprenticeship together in switzerland. eric peels and slices crisp white turnips for the roast vegetable salad, tosses them with olive oil, fresh thyme, chile flakes, salt and pepper, and then throws them in a cast iron skillet and into the oven. next he seeds and slices the Delicata squash sitting next to a platter of freshly foraged chanterelles. beside him, eli tackles the choucroute garnie, deftly breaking down a chunk of bacon into lardons and browning them in a Dutch oven. he then turns his attention to the oysters, quickly chopping a handful of shallot and chives and dousing them with a robust pour of champagne to create an impromptu mignonette. Just before everyone breaks for bivalves, the cabin’s smoke alarm goes off. “already?” asks trevor. “Just wait ’til i burn the s**t out of the salmon,” eli says cheerfully.

“and we haven’t even forgotten the pie yet,” tyler adds. everyone freezes for a moment, squinting at the ceiling, and the alarm stops. eli takes advantage of the quiet kitchen to attempt grunt work delegation. “if anyone wants a job, the cream needs to be whipped.” aFter the oYsters are reDuCeD to empty shells, and the champagne and accompanying toasts are but a memory, eric sets out wooden bowls and ladles a silky cauliflower soup into each one. he gently spoons bright orange cured coho roe in the center and accessorizes with a few carefully placed drops of olive oil and strands of chive, then lays a homemade black pepper cracker across each bowl. the result is a work of art, and the kitchen is quiet as everyone digs in, eschewing formalities like a table and chairs, content just to congregate around the kitchen island. it’s not long until the bowls are scraped

From the early-evening charcuterie and fish tales to the post-apple pie midnight slump, this feast’s tagline became “top me up,” as the group bolstered Trevor Baird’s rich, deeply flavored, fresh-pressed apple cider with hearty splashes of House Spirits Distillery’s Slab Town Whiskey. Baird cultivates a 500tree Dayton apple orchard comprising vintage English and French cider varietals grafted with imported scion wood from Newberg’s now-shuttered White Oak Cider, as well as a few American heirloom cider apple varietals like Roxbury Russet and Hudson’s Golden Gem. It takes 12 pounds of apples, a hand-cranked Correll cider press and a lot of elbow grease to produce each gallon of fresh cider, which he sells at his farmers market booths through autumn ($7/half gallon). In late October, Baird totes the press right to the market, makes cider on the spot and sells it hot to grateful chilly fingered shoppers. Having developed an interest in European-style hard ciders on a trip to England, Baird plans to bottle and sell hard cider this fall, under the label Farmhouse Cider. It will be available at the Baird farmers market booths and select local restaurants such as Olympic Provisions in Portland and Red Hills Market in Dundee.

clean, and stove duties resume. eric tosses the still-warm roasted vegetables and chanterelles in a simple dressing of sweet onion relish, cider vinegar, Dijon and olive oil, as eli stirs a pan of tiny green lentils du puy cooked with a mirepoix and finished with sherry vinegar and butter. he sears slabs of wild Columbia river king salmon in a hot pan, managing not to set off the smoke alarm a second time, and when they’ve cooked to tender, flaky perfection, he plates the lentils, douses them with fresh horseradish-infused cream, and gently lays the fish on top. he then plates the impressive choucroute garnie — a hearty, terrifically 40

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fragrant embarrassment of meat riches nestled in hot, briny homemade sauerkraut. “Good thing i brought three sausages for each person,” eli says, surveying the monumental spread. “Franks, kielbasa, brats — hope everyone’s ready.” “i’m not really hungry,” trevor says. “i ate a lot of pistachios.” bY the time Lane’s mountain of an apple pie is warmed through in the oven and served in thick wedges alongside generous scoops of maple ice cream, the collective energy is waning. “i’m just washing this one pot, i’m not actually going to do the dishes,”

tyler clarifies loudly from the sink, as limbs begin to sag and eyes droop. when i finally leave around midnight to pedal back through the forest to my cabin, the scene surrounding the flickering fire in the living room is somewhat comical, considering the hard partying characters involved. eric is curled up on one end of the sofa sleeping soundly, and eli’s slumped over on the other end, cradling a pillow and snoring, while a still relatively chipper tyler and trevor survey the scene with something akin to disdain. “anybody want to play monopoly?” tyler calls out. “scrabble? Go Fish?”

Cauliflower soup With Wild salmon Roe and Black Pepper Crackers

What they drank:

MAkES 4-6 SERvINGS

The fish weren’t the only creatures submerged in the drink on this trip, thanks to Star Black — wine director for Olympic Provisions, Clyde Common and the new Pepe le Moko — who curated serious fine wine and spirits pairings to complement each course.

Roasting the cauliflower for this silky soup brings out its sweetness, while a drizzle of peppery olive oil and a spoonful of salmon caviar, which you can buy at Anzen Market in Portland, add depth and complexity effortlessly. If you’re a DIY kind of cook, look for skeins of fresh salmon eggs from farmers market salmon vendors. You can cure them yourself in salt water. 1 head cauliflower, cut into florets ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (divided) Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 leek, white part only 1 small Walla Walla onion 1 stalk celery 1 clove garlic 1 quart chicken or vegetable broth 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, plus more for garnish ½ teaspoon crushed chile flakes 1 bay leaf Garnish Extra virgin olive oil Fresh thyme or chives Wild salmon roe Black Pepper Crackers (recipe follows) Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, toss cauliflower with ¼ cup olive oil, salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast until golden brown and tender, about 25 minutes. Meanwhile, finely dice leek, onion, celery and garlic. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saucepan set over medium heat. Sauté the vegetables until soft but not browned, about 7 minutes. Add the roasted cauliflower, chicken or vegetable broth, thyme, chili flakes and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove bay leaf. Purée soup using an immersion blender. Or allow soup to cool and blend on medium speed in a standard blender (if the soup is hot, steam can build up and cause an eruption). If needed, add a little stock to thin the soup. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, garnished with a drizzle of olive oil, fresh herbs, salmon roe and Black Pepper Crackers. — From Eric Moore, Victory Bar and Free House, Portland

Black Pepper Crackers MAkES ABOuT 3 DOzEN CRACkERS

Like homemade cookies, fresh-baked crackers are worlds better than anything you can buy at the store. Luckily, these flakey, buttery, savory crackers are just as easy to make. 2 ½ 1 1 2 ½

cups all-purpose flour cup rye flour teaspoon coarsely ground coriander teaspoon toasted caraway seeds teaspoons kosher salt cup plus 2 tablespoons butter, cold and cubed ½ cup whole milk Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a food processor, add all-purpose flour, rye flour, coriander, caraway and salt. Pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until mixture looks like coarse meal. While pulsing, add ½ cup milk and continue pulsing just until the dough starts to come together. The dough should hold together when squeezed (add a bit more milk if the dough is too dry). Don’t overmix. Divide dough in half. Roll out each piece on a piece of parchment to a 12-inch square. Transfer to baking sheets and prick all over with a fork. use a paring knife or fluted pastry wheel to score the dough into 2-by4-inch crackers. Sprinkle with kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper. Bake until lightly browned and crispy, about 15 minutes. Let cool, then break along the score lines. — From Eric Moore, Victory Bar and Free House, Portland

Charcuterie  2010 domaine tempier bandol rosé  2010 teutonic Wine company Pinot noir rosé Oysters 1997 Pierre LuneauPapin Muscadet cuvée Medaillee



Cauliflower Soup With Wild Salmon Roe  Marie-noelle Ledru rosé Grand cru champagne nV Roasted Autumn vegetable Salad With Chanterelles  2005 domaine Francois et antoine Jobard Meursault “Les tillets” Lentils du Puy With Wild Salmon and Fresh Horseradish Cream  2008 François chidaine Montlouis sur Loire “clos du breuil”  2008 Julien Labet cotes du Jura chardonnay “Les Varrons”  2008 Jean Foillard Fleurie Choucroute Garnie  2005 domaine schoenheitz riesling d’alsace  2005 domaine bott-Geyl riesling Grafenreben de Zellenberg Apple Pie With Maple Ice Cream  boulard calvados VsoP  Pampero aniversario rum  Pappy Van Winkle’s Family reserve 23-year-old bourbon

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Lentils Du Puy With Wild salmon and Fresh Horseradish Cream

Choucroute Garnie

MAkES 4-6 SERvINGS

This Alsatian dish is rooted in the cooking of Germany — no surprise since it’s built on sausages and sauerkraut. With a dish this simple, it will only be as good as the ingredients. Be sure to get the best sausages and sauerkraut you can find.

French green lentils du puy have a firmer texture than other lentils, so they don’t break down into mush during cooking. They provide a delicious bed for crisp-skinned sautéed salmon topped with luscious horseradish cream Lentils: ½ cup unsalted butter (divided) 1 onion, diced 2 carrots, peeled and diced 2 celery ribs, diced 1½ cups lentils du puy (aka French green lentils) 6 cups chicken stock 1 bunch fresh thyme, tied 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar Salt to taste horseradish cream: ½ cup heavy whipping cream 2 ⁄3 cup fresh grated horseradish 2 tablespoons minced chives Salt to taste Squeeze of lemon juice salmon: 1 ⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 (5 ounce) wild king salmon fillets Salt ¼ cup all-purpose flour

to make the lentils: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. In a large sauté pan or Dutch oven (that has a tight-fitting lid) set over medium heat, melt ¼ cup of the butter. Add onion, carrots and celery, and cook, stirring often, until vegetables are completely soft, about 7 minutes. Stir in lentils. Add chicken stock and thyme, and increase heat to a simmer. Cover and place in oven until lentils are very tender, about 45 to 60 minutes. Remove thyme bundle and add sherry vinegar and salt to taste. to make the horseradish cream: Whip the heavy cream until it holds stiff peaks. Fold in the remaining ingredients until incorporated. to make the salmon: In large sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Salt salmon on all sides. Dredge the skin side of the salmon in flour and brush off any excess. When the oil is hot, add salmon skin side down and cook until the skin has browned, about 3 to 5 minutes. Turn salmon over and cook until medium-rare, about 2 to 3 minutes more. (If your fillets are very thick, cook them 10 minutes per inch of thickness.) to serve: Stir the remaining butter into the lentils just before serving (lentils should be runny, but not soupy). Plate lentils on a warm serving dish with a generous dollop of horseradish cream. Place the salmon on top, skin side up. — From Elias Cairo, Olympic Provisions, Portland

MIXpdX.coM auGust 2012

MAkES 4-6 SERvINGS

1 to 1½ pounds good-quality sauerkraut 4 cups water 1 ½ pounds Yukon gold potatoes, halved or quartered Salt ¼ pound bacon, cut crosswise into ¼-inch-wide slices 1 onion, diced 1 cup sweet, off-dry Riesling 2 teaspoons caraway seeds 1 tablespoon vegetable oil ½ pound kielbasa ½ pound bratwurst ½ pound frankfurter ½ pound ham sliced into ¼-inch-wide slices Dijon mustard

Drain sauerkraut in a colander, reserving all liquid. Place half the liquid in a large saucepan and add the water, potatoes and ¼ cup salt. Cover, bring to boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain. Meanwhile, set a Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat, add the bacon and onions, and cook until onions are tender, about 7 minutes. Add the drained sauerkraut, Riesling, caraway seeds and remaining sauerkraut liquid; cover and bring to a simmer. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauerkraut has just a slight bite left. Add salt to taste. In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the kielbasa, bratwursts and frankfurters. Brown sausages on all sides until cooked through. to serve: Add the cooked potatoes to the sauerkraut. Slice the sausages and place on top. Add ham and serve with Dijon mustard. — From Elias Cairo, Olympic Provisions, Portland

 ONLINE EXTRA: Get the recipe for Roasted Root Vegetable Salad at MIXPDX.COM

Maple Ice Cream MAkES 6-8 SERvINGS

Instead of granulated sugar, this rich ice cream uses maple syrup, giving it sweetness as well as depth of flavor. It’s incredible alongside apple pies and crisps. 1 cup maple syrup (grade B) 1½ cups heavy cream 1 cup whole milk 1 tablespoon cornstarch 12 large egg yolks 1 teaspoon vanilla extract In a medium, heavybottomed saucepan, combine maple syrup, heavy cream and milk.

Mile-High Apple Pie MAkES 8 SERvINGS

Loaded with tender slices of fragrant apples, this deep-dish pie makes a stunning finish to your autumnal feasts. The filling is scented with orange zest and vanilla, and as much cinnamon and cloves as you like. crust: 3¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus about ½ cup for rolling 1 scant teaspoon salt ½ cup plus 5 tabelspoons cold unsalted butter, diced 2 ⁄3 cup ice cold water 1 egg yolk Filling: 1 cup granulated sugar 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, or to taste 1 ⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves, or to taste Zest from 1 orange 3 tablespoons allpurpose flour 4 pounds apples Juice from 1 lemon 1 teaspoon vanilla extract egg wash and sugar topping: 1 egg 1 tablespoon crystal sugar (decorating sugar) ½ teaspoon cinnamon

to make the dough: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, mix together the flour and salt. Add the diced butter and lightly toss it in the flour by hand. Place bowl in the freezer for a few minutes while you prepare the ice water. Fit the bowl onto the food processor. Mix together the ice cold water and egg yolk. Turn the food processor on and immediately pour the yolk mixture through the feed tube in a quick, steady stream. Within several seconds the dough will start to come together. Stop the machine when there are no longer any crumbles of dough rising to the top of the bowl and then falling back down again. Turn the dough out onto a very lightly floured surface and form it into two mounds of equal size (about 12 ounces each). Wrap each mound with plastic wrap and then form into a disc. Refrigerate for 1 hour. to make the filling: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In small bowl, combine the sugar, cinnamon, cloves, orange zest and flour. Peel the apples and cut into 1⁄8 to ¼ inch slices. Place sliced apples in a large mixing bowl. Squeeze the lemon juice over and drizzle with vanilla. Toss until apples are well-coated. Pour sugar mixture over the apples and toss again.

to assemble and bake: On a lightly floured surface, roll out one disk of pie dough until it’s 1 ⁄8 inch thick. Line a 9-inch pie dish with dough. In a small bowl, beat the egg and lightly brush it over the bottom crust (reserve the leftover for brushing the top crust). Arrange the apples tightly in the bottom crust and make a mound. Refrigerate while you roll out the remaining dough. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the remaining dough until it’s 1⁄8 inch thick. Drape over the apples. Lightly and carefully press the top crust down around the apples, tucking it in around the edge. Then press the edges of the two crusts together, all the way around the pie, to seal them. When finished, trim any excess dough and crimp the two crusts together. In a small bowl, combine the crystal sugar and cinnamon. Brush the remaining egg wash over the top of the pie, and sprinkle with cinnamon-sugar. Cut a few slits in the top crust to release steam. Place in the oven and bake for 1 hour, until the crust is golden brown and the juices are bubbling. — From Amelia Lane, Olympic Provisions, Portland

Place the cornstarch in medium mixing bowl and stir in a few tablespoons of the cream mixture to make a slurry. Whisk the egg yolks and vanilla into the slurry. Set the saucepan of cream over medium heat and heat until just beginning to steam. Remove from heat. Whisk about ½ cup of the hot cream into the yolks to temper them. Continue whisking in the cream a little at a time until incorporated. Add the yolk mixture back to the pot and set over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula, until mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Do not let it come to a boil. Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Allow to cool, then place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface. Refrigerate overnight until completely cold. Freeze custard in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to an airtight container and freeze ice cream until firm and scoopable, at least 4 hours. — From Amelia Lane, Olympic Provisions, Portland £ auGust 2012 MIXpdX.coM

Hillsboro neighborhood NW 216th

NW Connell Ave

SE Frances St

SE Tuala

r ne

ROCO is the distillation of 27 years of winemaking by esteemed winemaker/owner, Rollin Soles.

5 NW Cornell Rd

Sunset Hwy

SE Baseline St

Come taste why his wines have ranked among Wine Spectator’s TOP 100 Wines of the World 14 times.

Av e

NW Cornell Rd

NE Orenco Station Pkwy

NW 143rd Ave

tin Valle y Hwy

Open Thursday - Sunday 11 a.m. - 5 p.m.

22 9t h

Main St SW 1st St

SW Johnson St

NE Lincoln St

Hwy

GO WINE TASTING IN OREGON! Join us for an unforgettable wine tasting experience in the Willamette Valley. Explore quiet backcountry roads leading to a rustic barnyard tasting room or state of the art winery. Plan your tour by requesting our map and guide at willamettewines.com.

DON’T MISS WINE COUNTRY THANKSGIVING

Nov 23-25, 2012

13260 NE Red Hills Road • Newberg, OR 97132 (503) 538-7625 • www.rocowinery.com

Hillsboro area Restaurants

Reedville Cafe

Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and happy hour daily. Terrific appetizers and delicious desserts. www.reedvillecafe.com 503.649.4643

The World’s Largest Selection of Oregon Wines Handcraft Beers and Hard Ciders Wine Shop, Boutique, Restaurant and Bar Planning a special event? We create ReedvilleLive Cafe Music Friday & Saturday the perfect menu with an emphasis A great place for family and friends to meet Join us for Happy Hour breakfast, lunch, dinner on fresh northwest ingredients. since 1950. Serving

Reedville Catering

www.reedvillecatering.com 503.642.9898

and happy hour daily. Terrific appetizers 248 E. Main Street (like our famous Reedville Rings) and deliHillsboro, OR cious desserts baked in-house.

Syun Izakaya The family-owned, award-winning place in Oregon for Japanese pubstyle dishes, top-notch sushi and sashimi, and superb sake. 209 NE Lincoln St.

Hillsboro, OR 97214 7575 SE TV503.703.8525 Hwy, Hillsboro OR 97123 Located on Tualatin Valley Highway www.primroseandtumbleweeds.com 503-640-3131 503.649.4643 at Cornelius Pass Road, Hillsboro OR

www.syun-izakaya.com

reedvillecafe.com

5 Sushi and Yuki Sake Bar Restaurant

At Yuki Sushi and Sake Bar Restaurant of Oregon, we make it a priority to give you the best sushi eating experience along with budget friendly prices.

Yuki Sushi and Sake Bar Restaurant

MIXpdx.com october 2012

To advertise please contact Lucas Kibby at 503.294.4146 or lkibby@hillsboroargus.com

1335 NE Orenco Station Parkway Hillsboro, OR 97124 503.430.5275 www.yukisushibar.com

At Yuki Sushi and Sake Bar Restaurant of Oregon, we make it a

shop local ~ shop Hillsboro

get out

Wine country jaunts for the time challenged by KERRy NEWbERRy

A wine country visit doesn’t have to be a schedule-busting, all-day-long affair. If you focus on just one area, you can have country roads, gorgeous views and fabulous wines even if you have just a few hours to spare. We charted out three fast-yet-fabulous itineraries only an hour’s drive from Portland.

JK Carriere Wines

Recipe, A Neighborhood Kitchen

Newberg Where to sip JK carriere Wines: This winery perched atop Parrett Mountain reflects owner/ winemaker Jim Prosser’s adventurous, philosophical spirit — with an evergreen view from the tasting room and an artistic rendering of a wasp adorning the labels (Prosser is severely allergic). Although he is known for his elegant pinots — the classic “Provocateur” Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is a go-to dinner party wine — don’t miss the lithe Lucidité Willamette Valley Chardonnay. 9995 N.E. Parrett Mountain Road, Newberg, 503-554-0721, jkcarriere.com

colene clemens Vineyards: If you take a wrong turn (or two, as I did) on the way here, you won’t mind (think breathtaking vistas from Bald Peak, doe-eyed llamas and endless blue sky). A steep slope of pinot noir vines race up from a nostalgic century-old barn at the base of the 120-acre property. You will want to linger in the lodgelike tasting room with its leather chairs and stone fireplace. By all means do, with a glass of aromatic and velvety 2009 Victoria Pinot Noir. 22501 N.E. Dopp Road, Newberg, 503-662-4687, coleneclemens.com

trisaetum Winery, Vineyards and Gallery: This state-of-the-art winery also houses a 1,500-square-foot art gallery that features the contemporary paintings and photography of James Frey, Trisaetum’s owner and founder. Look closely and you’ll see vineyard cuttings and vineyard soil integrated into pieces. The focus here is on pinot noir and riesling: Try the off-dry 2011 Coast Range Estate Dry Riesling, a crisp oyster wine with delicate floral notes. 18401 Ribbon Ridge Road, Newberg, 503-538-9898, trisaetum.com

Where to eat recipe, a Neighborhood Kitchen: This stately Victorian home has an intimate farmhouse feel with reclaimed barn wood tables and chalkboard wine menus. Chef Paul Bachand changes the menu daily based on ingredients local farmers drop by and whatever is ripe and bursting from the one-acre vegetable garden a block from the restaurant. Try the house-smoked trout salad with heirloom spinach and the oh-so-savory onion tart. 115 N. Washington St., Newberg, 503-487-6853, recipenewbergor.com

PhotogRAPh (LEFt) by JohN M. ViNCENt, (UPPER Right) by thoMAs boyd, (LoWER Right) by october 2012 MIXpdX.coM

stoller Family Estate

Red hills Market

Dundee/Dayton Where to sip Winderlea Vineyard & Winery: Standing on the deck of Winderlea’s sleek and sophisticated tasting room, it feels as though you are suspended above tidy rows of twisted grape vines, some of the oldest in the Willamette Valley. Small-lot pinots (some a mere 100 cases) showcase the elegant, earthy fruit from the famed Jory soil. Try the 2009 Winderlea Legacy Pinot Noir, an ode to the older vines, with black fruit and a hint of spice. 8905 N.E. Worden Hill Road, Dundee, 503-554-5900, winderlea.com

Winter’s hill Vineyard: Leave the heels at home and join the wiking trend (wine + hiking) at Winter’s Hill Vineyard. A serene path curls down from the tasting room through restored oak savannah and fir forests. The 150-acre farm, planted with a 35-acre vineyard, is also a stop on the Willamette Valley Birding Trail. Russell Gladhart and his winemaker wife, Delphine, are often at hand pouring their silky pinot noirs. The 2011 Pinot Blanc, bright citrus in the glass, begs for a bite of Dungeness crab. 6451 Hilltop Lane, Dayton, 503-864-4538, wintershillwine.com

stoller Family estate: What began as one of the largest turkey farms in the state is now a leading Willamette Valley winery. Call ahead to schedule a behind-the-scenes tour of the LEED gold-certified facility, then enjoy a taste of place with pinot noirs and chardonnays made from estate fruit. Soak up the vineyard view in an Adirondack chair with a glass of the brambly 2009 JV Estate Pinot Noir. 16161 N.E. McDougall Road, Dayton, 503-864-3404, stollerfamilyestate.com

Where to eat red hills Market: Grab a bite where the locals go and chances are you’ll run into a boot-clad winemaker or cheesemaker. The hearty, well-crafted sandwiches always satisfy (especially the wood-oven-roasted vegetables, baby spinach and Briar Rose chèvre). Custom picnics and wine tasting snacks can be ordered to go. But if you have the time, opt for a wood-fired pizza. Head to the patio and relax into a rocking chair made from reclaimed wine barrels. 155 S.W. Seventh St., Dundee, 971-832-8414, redhillsmarket.com

PhotogRAPh (UPPER LEFt) by Ross WiLLiAM hAMiLtoN, (LoWER LEFt) by dANA E. oLsEN, (Right) by bEth NAKAMURA

·world class wines · Exceptional wines at exceptional prices.

Friday night tastings Private tastings by reservation “Wines by the Glass”

269 “A” Avenue, Lake Oswego 503.974.9841 www.worldclasswinesoregon.com 46

MIXpdX.coM october 2012

Visit us at our new home in Multnomah Village!

Maysara Winery

R. stuart & Co. Winery and Wine bar

Winter’s hill Vineyard

McMinnville Where to sip Maysara Winery: Maysara Winery is majestic, with a sundappled blue lake, voluptuous green hillsides and a mosaic of vines that splash across the slopes like thick paintbrush strokes. Resident denizens include sheep, cattle, horses and hundreds of wild turkeys (often spotted clucking between the vineyard rows). The entire 540acre property is Demeter Certified Biodynamic. Taste the purity of pinot noir here: The supple Delara — a Persian word that translates as “capture one’s heart” — bursts with dark ripe cherries. 15765 S.W. Muddy Valley Road, McMinnville; 503-843-1234, maysara.com

the Granary District: The latest hot spot in McMinnville is the stillevolving Granary District — several mixed-use blocks that include a handful of urban wineries, Ruby Cakes Bakery and the fourseason McMinnville Public Market. Taste Columbia River Gorge-grown tempranillo from the husbandand-wife duo behind Dominio IV Wines. Then explore Pacific Northwestgrown Italian varietals like dolcetto and sangiovese by Remy Drabkin of Remy Wines. Dominio IV Wines, 845 N.E. Fifth St., 503-474-8636, dominiowines.com Remy Wines, 905 N.E. 10th St., 503-560-2003, remywines.com granarydistrict.com

r. stuart & co. Winery and Wine bar: When craving simple pleasures, the Norman Rockwellesque downtown McMinnville offers leafy tree-lined streets, quiet cafes, family-run restaurants, a fabulous independent bookstore and this wine bar, where the winemaker (and his wife) will remember your name. Taste through the R. Stuart vineyard-designated pinot noirs while snacking on freshly baked gougères and locally made salumi by Fino in Fondo. The 2008 Vin Tardive, a late harvest wine, is a heavenly match for your next cheese course. 528 N.E. Third St., McMinnville; 866-472-8614, rstuartandco.com

Where to eat community plate The eclectic decor made up of vintage finds like deer antlers and swirl-around-stools at a step-up-bar fits perfectly with the Americana-inspired comfort fare at Community Plate. Where to sit is the question: perched on a window-facing stool that looks out on bustling Third Street or at one of the communal tables to chatter with locals? As for the food, split an order of the deviled eggs to start. Then try the grilled cheese with onion jam or the Oregon albacore tuna melt. 315 N.E. Third St., McMinnville; 503-687-1902, communityplate.com

7868 SW Capitol HWY, Portland OR MaggiesBoutiqueOnline.com

503.297.1609

Come Explore... Products from over 50 countries!

•

Oregon Grown Meats

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Farm Fresh Produce

•

Artisan Cheeses

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1200 Wines

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Over 600 Chill Beers

•

Deli Dishes from Ya Hala Portland’s Favorite Lebanese Restaurant

9845 SW Barbur Blvd.

Open Daily 7am - 10pm 503-244-0670 www.barburworldfoods.com

PhotogRAPh (LEFt) by FAith CAthCARt, (UPPER Right) by MiKE dAVis, (LoWER Right) by tiM LAbARgE october 2012 MIXpdX.coM

get out / Asheville, North Carolina

Get to know Asheville — Portland’s country cousin By andrea Slonecker photography By chrIStopher Shane

Upper left photograph By tIm maInIero

MIXpdX.coM october 2012

Toward the southern end of the intensely scenic Blue Ridge Parkway, which is aflame with autumnal colors this time of year, lies a small city in the midst of the Appalachian Mountains. It’s perhaps one of the more liberal towns below the Mason-Dixon line, with more hipsters than hillbillies. But they all meld into an eclectic culture with a tagline that’s familiar to Portlanders: “Asheville: Where normal is weird.” With this similar motto comes a similarly laid-back attitude, artsy culture, respect for the land and big thirst for craft brews. This is a town with a musician on every corner and a dog in every lap, and for a population of less than 90,000, there’s an astounding abundance of restaurants, cafes and breweries to put Asheville’s scene on the nation’s radar.

Wedge Brewing Company “beer city, USA”? If you are from Portland, bartenders in Asheville will undoubtedly ask how you feel about their little town with 10 breweries beating out your big town with over 50 (more than any other city in the world) for the title of “Beer City, USA.” Awarded to Asheville in an informal Examiner.com poll for four years running, the title is a point of pride in this beer-obsessed city. “While there is no single event that triggered the beer culture, Oscar Wong starting Highland Brewing Company in 1994 was the starting point of the modernday craft beer era in Asheville,” says Win Bassett, executive director of the North Carolina Brewers Guild. “It grew into a craft beer destination due to the passionate community support of local breweries and

the breweries’ support for the community.” Highland is still the highlight of the Asheville craft beer movement, and you can take a brewery tour at 4 p.m. any day but Sunday. It’s located a distance from the downtown core, but don’t worry if you can’t make it there — Highland’s beers are widely distributed. You’ll find their acclaimed Gaelic Ale in many pubs, like Thirsty Monk, a popular downtown Belgian and American craft beer bar, which recently started its own brewery, too. Another one of the oldest local breweries, Green Man, has a tasting room downtown, where it’s possible to catch a glimpse of the brewers in action. The hip newcomer on the scene is Wedge Brewing Company in the River Arts District, an area reminiscent of Portland’s Alberta neighborhood. At this bohemian,

oh-so-Asheville brewery, you can enjoy a pint of Iron Rail IPA on the outdoor patio and grab a bite from one of the food trucks parked in front. For true beer aficionados, Pisgah Brewing Company is worth the 20-minute trek to Black Mountain at the base of the Pisgah Forest to taste the southeast’s first all-organic beers. The seasonal releases are often the most acclaimed, so check out what’s on tap when you go. For an insider’s look at the local breweries, take an Asheville Brews Cruise tour. The knowledgeable guide will tell you as much as you want to know about the burgeoning scene. With national companies like Sierra Nevada and New Belgium each building East Coast outposts here, it’s likely that Asheville’s beer industry is just getting started. october 2012 MIXpdX.coM

Asheville, N.C., cont.

SoUtherN comfort for breAkfASt

Early Girl Eatery

White Duck Taco Shop 12 Bones Smokehouse

Quintessential Southern food makes for some of the world’s best breakfasts. So if you’re craving the classics, don’t skip the most important meal of the day in this town. Downtown at Tupelo Honey Cafe, you get proper Southern cookery with mountainous portions and a bit of flair, like sweet potato pancakes topped with whipped peach butter and spiced pecans. The Sunshot Vegetable Plate is a good way to sample Dixie favorites like mac-and-cheese, fried green tomatoes and corn bread. If you’re looking for a Southern spin on vegetarian and vegan options, go around the corner to Early Girl Eatery. This place prides itself on its commitment to purchasing from regional farms. Don’t miss the best-ever biscuits with creamy, herbaceous vegetarian gravy. Another excellent veggie option is the Early Girl Benny of pan-fried grits cakes topped with spinach, poached eggs, avocado and sultry tomato gravy. If daybreak finds you across town in the gentrifying neighborhood of West Asheville, get in line at local-favorite Sunny Point Cafe for a shrimp-and-grits fix.

Globe-trottiNG lUNcheS

After taking in the galleries, boutiques and art deco architecture downtown, break for lunch at Chai Pani. Though chef-owner Meherwan Irani is indeed Indian, his menu of Southern Indian street food isn’t strictly authentic. Instead, you get the best of both worlds with Carolinameets-India dishes such as fried green tomato pakoras or matchstick okra fries sprinkled with lime and seasoning salt. Rumor has it that 12 Bones Smokehouse is President Obama’s favorite spot when he comes through town. Though Ashevillians aren’t as revered for their barbecuing skills as the rest of the state, this weekday-lunch-only joint is doing its own take on Carolina ’cue with trickedout sauces including the award-winning blueberry-chipotle. But don’t over-order in the smoked meats department because the sides are the real treasures here — the custardy jalapeño corn pudding and mashed sweet potatoes are both musts. Just a hop across the French Broad River, in the River Arts District, you’ll find globally inspired tacos at White Duck Taco Shop. This is fusion done right, with ambience that’s as vibrant as the flavors packed between the corn tortillas. A sure50

MIXpdX.coM october 2012

fire filling is the Bangkok Shrimp coated in a sweet sesame glaze, with spicy house-pickled cucumbers and carrots, plus sweet chili aioli.

Lunch - Brunch - Dinner - Sightseeing

Not-So-coUNtrified diNNerS

Though you’ll find enough pimento cheese and barbecued pork around town to satiate your comfort cravings, Asheville’s hottest dinner houses are putting a fresher spin on Southern ingredients. At Downtown’s table, local flavor merges with refined technique. Dishes might include trout plucked from a nearby mountain river, vegetables called out by their heirloom varietal, and house-made charcuterie, such as country ham, made from local pigs. In up-and-coming West Asheville, The Admiral is perhaps the most Portland-esque restaurant in town, with its seasonal, meatcentric small plates, tattooed chefs and hipster-cool clientele. It’s also white-hot, which means there’s a two-week wait for reservations, so you’ll need to plan ahead for this one. Don’t fret if you don’t get in, because the best dining in Asheville is found back across town at Cúrate. At the kitchen’s helm is chef Katie Button, a semifinalist for the 2012 James Beard “Rising Star Chef ” award, who opened this authentic tapas bar with her family after returning from Spain and a seven-month stint at El Bulli. If you have just one night to eat in Asheville, do it here.

Portland Spirit Cruises 800-224-3901 or 503-224-3900 www.portlandspirit.com

A STORM IS COMING

extrAcUrricUlAr ActivitieS

October 12, 2012 – January 6, 2013



The city’s biggest attraction, literally, is the 175,000-square-foot Biltmore House built in 1895 by railroad heir George W. Vanderbilt. Though the mansion is open to the public for touring, it remains the nation’s largest privately owned home with 250 rooms. One of the coolest ways to experience the 8,000-acre estate is to forage

the woods with No Taste Like Home’s

Alan Muskat, who leads wild food foraging expeditions to scenic plots of forested land around the city. According to Muskat, the Asheville area is one of the most biodiverse regions of the country. An outing this time of the year could turn up a variety of fall mushrooms, wild persimmons, burdock root and chestnuts. 

Another way to scope out regional produce and specialty foods is to visit

WWW.OHS.ORG HISTORY MUSEUM

Presented by

AT THE OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY

october 2012 MIXpdX.coM

Asheville, N.C., cont.

one of the city’s 10 or so tailgate-style farmers markets. On Saturdays, the North Asheville Tailgate Market hits the UNC Asheville campus. 

A trip to North Carolina just wouldn’t be complete without hitting the barbecue trail, and it’s doable from Asheville in a day trip. Head east on Interstate 40 to Lexington, the “Barbecue Capital of North Carolina.” 

Battery Park Book Exchange and Champagne Bar

Cúrate

Music is a big part of Asheville’s culture, so be sure to get in a live show. Considered one of the country’s premiere rock venues, The Orange Peel plays host to legendary musicians and up-and-coming bands, with past acts ranging from The Flaming Lips to Lucinda Williams. The Grey Eagle is the place to catch local bluegrass bands or singer-songwriters on the verge of making it big. Live bands are known to spontaneously perform outside at The Bywater, too. Be aware that North Carolina liquor laws are about as funky as Oregon’s, so you’ll have to become a member here, or at any other bar that serves liquor without selling food. It’s as easy as paying a fivedollar fee at the door, which includes as many people as you’d like to bring. And The Bywater is worth the cover: It’s a sprawling, full-acre beer garden along the banks of the French Broad River, with cornhole, horseshoes, picnic tables and grills. Yep, folks bring their own charcoal and coolers full of food to grill while enjoying barrel-aged cocktails made at the bar. The Willamette sure could use one of these. 

Asheville has a rich literary history, which includes authors such as Thomas Wolfe, O. Henry and F. Scott Fitzgerald. Settle into a leather chair, sip a glass of champagne and lose yourself in a book at the incredibly charming Battery Park

Book Exchange and Champagne Bar.

Be sure to engage store owner Thomas Wright in a chat — he’ll give you a good dose of Asheville history, among other musings on life. 

Cúrate 52

MIXpdX.coM october 2012

Don’t leave Asheville without taking in the best view of the cityscape, with a cocktail in hand, on the terrace of the historic Grove Park Inn. As you watch the sun go down behind the bushy foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, you’ll see why the Southern elite of yesteryear thought of this place as a resort town.

Where to Go: 12 Bones Smokehouse: 5 riverside drive, 828-253-4499, 12bones.com Asheville Brews Cruise, 828-545-5181, ashevillebrewscruise.com

River Dining at its Best! Arrive and Relax in Minutes

Battery Park Book Exchange: 1 page ave., Suite 101, 828-252-0020, batteryparkbookexchange.com Biltmore Estate: 1 approach road, 800-543-2961, biltmore.com Chai Pani: 22 Battery park ave., 828-254-4003, chaipani.net Cúrate: 11 Biltmore ave., 828-239-2946, curatetapasbar.com Early Girl Eatery: 8 Wall St., 828-259-9292, earlygirleatery.com Green Man Brewery: 23 Buxton ave., 828-252-5502, greenmanbrewery.com Highland Brewing: 12 old charlotte highway, 828-299-3370, highlandbrewing.com North Asheville Tailgate Market: Unc asheville campus, 828-776-6286, northashevilletailgatemarket.org

Remaining Open through December 22nd • Providing Free Live Music Most Saturdays • Halloween Gala Saturday, Oct. 27th • Open Thanksgiving Day Nov. 22nd Now Taking Reservations

503.543.8765 www.MarksontheChannel.com

No Taste Like Home: 828-273-8075, notastelikehome.org Pisgah Brewing Company: 150 eastside drive, Black mountain, 828-669-0190, pisgahbrewing.com Sunny Point Cafe: 626 haywood road, 828-252-0055, sunnypointcafe.com Table: 48 college St., 828-254-8980, tableasheville.com The Admiral: 400 haywood road, 828-252-2541, theadmiralnc.com The Bywater: 796 riverside drive, 828-232-6967, bywaterbar.com The Grey Eagle: 185 clingman ave., 828-232-5800, thegreyeagle.com The Grove Park Inn: 290 macon ave., 800-438-5800, groveparkinn.com The Orange Peel: 101 Biltmore ave., 828-398-1837 or 828-225-5851, theorangepeel.net Thirsty Monk: 92 patton ave., 828-254-5470, monkpub.com Tupelo Honey Cafe: 12 college St., 828-255-4863, tupelohoneycafe.com Wedge Brewing Company: 125B roberts St., 828-505-2792, wedgebrewing.com White Duck Taco Shop: 1 roberts St., Suite 101, 828-258-1660, whiteducktacoshop.com £

Visit our new tasting room in Downtown Carlton! Open Thursday-Sunday 12-5 pm 116 West Main Street Carlton, OR 97111

503-852-3067 @OmeroCellars www.omerocellars.com october 2012 MIXpdX.coM

calendar Our picks for what to do when COMPILED BY GRANT BUTLER

BLOW YOUR MIND

CHEESE-STAKES!

Oct. 6: The Oregon Cheese Guild and Rogue Ales & Spirits brings back the Wedge, a food festival celebrating Northwest artisan cheese. In addition to cheese tastings and a cheese-eating championship, you get a chance to meet a genuine Oregon Dairy Princess. And when was the last time you got to meet a princess? oregoncheeseguild.org

A HOPPING GOOD PARTY

Oct. 6: Autumn is fresh hop beer season, and the Oregon Brewer’s Guild pours some of the best at the portland Fresh Hop Fest at Oaks Amusement Park. $15 gets you a souvenir glass and five drink tickets, and there’s free root beer for kids. Oregonbeer.org/freshhopsfest

Oct. 7: Is there any question that carrie Underwood is the most successful performer to emerge out of “American Idol”? Kelly Clarkson would probably like to talk it over, but having moved more than 700,000 copies of her latest album, “Blown Away,” Underwood continues to be one of the biggest names in country music, which, more or less, means pop music, too. Her Rose Garden concert is one of October’s most-anticipated shows. carrieunderwoodofficial.com

APPLE TIME!

Oct. 12-14, 19-21: October

is prime apple time, and Portland Nursery helps fruit lovers break away from the usual grocery store varieties with its 25th annual Apple tasting. The free event offers a chance to sample and buy more than 50 heirloom varieties of apples and pears perfect for eating, pie baking and strudel making. There are also cider-pressing demonstrations, a scarecrow contest and hot pizza (after all, you can’t live on apples alone). portlandnursery.com

BODIES IN MOTION Oct. 13-20:

Oregon Ballet Theatre opens its season with “the Body Beautiful,” a celebration of the human form, dovetailing performances with the Portland Art Museum’s new exhibit of ancient Greek sculptures. The program features George Balanchine’s landmark 1928 dance “Apollo,” and continues with Kent Stowell’s re-imagining of the Orpheus and Eurydice myth as an intimate pas de deux in “Orpheus Portrait.” Also on the program: a dance by legendary choreographer William Forsythe and a new work from artistic director Christopher Stowell in collaboration with Northwest artist John Grade. obt.org

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDY BATT

PORTLAND COCKTAIL WEEK

Oct. 21-25 Drink up and party down this month, when a bevy of the world’s most eminent bartenders descend upon our city for the third annual Portland Cocktail Week, Oct. 21-25. Watch for cocktail specials at restaurants and bars around town, spirit-pairing dinners and, of course, parties galore. We have our eyes on the booze-fueled closing fête at the Jupiter Hotel, featuring hotshots like “King Cocktail” Dale DeGroff, the James Beard Foundation’s 2009 Outstanding Wine & Spirits Professional. Sip handcrafted cocktails shaken by bartenders from Portland’s top spots, as well as the best of London, NYC, New Orleans and more, without the plane ride. For a complete list of events plus the roster of bartenders, check out portlandcocktailweek.com. — Andrea Slonecker 54

MIXpdX.coM SeptemBer 2012

PHOTOGRAPH BY RANDY L. RASMUSSEN

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5663-C NE 105th Ave, Portland

PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID KREBS

www.MiracleMethod.com/Portland

Iike MIX? SubScrIbe at mixpdx.com

MONSTER MASH

Oct. 18-NOv. 3: Just in time for Halloween, the normally upbeat BodyVox explores its dark side with “Fresh Blood,” featuring dances inspired by demons and spirits, with a few ninjas and one twisted clown thrown into the mix. On the program is a new world premiere by artistic directors Jamey Hampton and Ashley Roland, as well as favorite dances from the 2010 edition of the show. bodyvox.com

Gerding Theater at the Armory 128 NW Eleventh Avenue

503.445.3700

pcs.org

HARVEST OF HOPE

Oct. 20: Throughout the year, the Oregon Food Bank raises money to fight hunger in the region, and one of its biggest fund-raisers is the Oregon Harvest Dinner, which features an impressive array of seasonal dishes from Michael Stanton, executive chef of The Heathman Restaurant and Bar. oregonfoodbank.org

SPOOKTACULAR TREATS

Oct. 28: Kids and teens will love In Good Taste’s Hands-On Halloween Spooktacular classes, where they’ll learn to make Halloween-inspired dishes like Vampire Blood Soup, Mummy Dogs and Mini Eyeball Cupcakes. The perfect way to feed your inner ghoul. ingoodtastestore.com £

SEPT 18– OCT 21

Tasca & Paul Gulick Helen & Jerry Stern

SeptemBer 2012 MIXpdX.coM

Robert Reynolds 1942 - 2012 BY CAMAS DAVIS

On top of what has oft been dubbed the most photographed stove in Portland, a small blue ceramic pot of water, carrots, onions and celery spurts and sighs. In another pot, dried porcinis slowly find a path toward their former softened selves. A green sauté pan nearby emits the comforting scents of warmed butter and fried pancetta. The stove is a powder blue Lacanche — the sort of stove you’d imagine grandmothers in France would have in their centuries-old stone homes. On this day, five female students and one female teacher, Blake Van Roekel, surround it, wielding wooden spoons and sharp knives. They speak of the proper way to cut an onion, of the tricky nature of sabayon, of the hidden personality of fennel. They are all here because of one man, the man who bought the stove. His name was Robert Reynolds, and though he died on Aug. 27 this year, his legacy to the world of food in Portland and beyond is indelible. Like the stories he told, and which so many others can now tell about him, he has left one of the purest culinary legacies many of us have ever known. It is difficult to find anyone in Portland’s culinary scene who has not been touched by Robert’s uniquely Francophile brand of philosophy and technique — “I teach people how to find Provence in Portland and Portland in Provence,” he was fond of saying. The likes of Cathy Whims, Kevin Gibson, Chris Israel and Naomi Pomeroy have cooked alongside him in his diminutive cooking school, the Robert Reynolds Chef Studio, tucked away behind Ken’s Artisan Pizza on Southeast 28th and Ash. Chefs such as John Taboada of Navarre and Luce and Courtney Sproule of Din Din have studied with him. Over the years, Corey Schreiber and Vitaley Paley

have sent employees to learn from him. And countless home cooks, sous chefs and budding culinaires have walked through the doors of Robert’s studio, which he founded in 2006. But Robert was a teacher for far longer than that. Before opening his studio, he taught and cooked in whatever kitchen would have him in Portland, and before that in Colorado and San Francisco and France. He learned from the best: As a young man he counted among his culinary mentors Madeleine Kamman and Josephine Araldo, both icons of French cuisine in their own right. After studying with them for years, Robert opened his own restaurant Le Trou, in San Francisco, where he taught many an aspiring cook. But in Portland Robert truly came into his own as a mentor and teacher — indeed, he’s often been referred to as the “Pope of Portland.” Local restaurant photogrAph BY StephAnIe YAo, 2000

MIXpdX.coM OCTOBER 2012

reviewers such as Karen Brooks and the anonymous food blogger known as Food Dude counted him among their confidants. Many women and men struggling to define themselves and their relationship to food met Robert for the first time and never looked back. And many food writers, myself included, have struggled to capture him in words. “Where were you born?” “Where I needed to be.” “Where did you learn to cook?” “From the only people who could teach me.” “Why does this fennel broth taste so good?” “Because we allowed the fennel to give us all it could give.” He was surly and opinionated and poetic and lovely and there is no one in Portland who would disagree. “Robert’s way of teaching was circular, not linear,” says Van Roekel, a former student of Robert’s who has taken over much of the teaching at the studio since Robert was diagnosed with lymphoma in 2009. Van Roekel plans to continue to spearhead his legacy of teaching and learning. “He would always beautifully and brilliantly never answer your question, but in his presence, you always ended up on the road toward the right answer.” Just a week after Robert died, I visited the studio. As I took in the smells of the kitchen, felt the warmth of the stove and listened to the laughter of the women surrounding it, I thought about all the scents and steam and laughter and smoke that had passed through Robert’s domain over the years. And just for a second I imagined they rose up to form a ghost-like essence, a scented swirl, a loop of stories dancing in and around the gently swinging paper parasols he had hung from the skylight. It was Robert. It felt as though he was there to stay. And, of course, he is. £

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