MIX Magazine December 2011

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Portland, P ortland,, Dec December cember 2 2011 011 Eat Drink Get Out Get Together

Sweet sherries hot toddies slow coffee The cozy side of Seaside cheesy gifts Best bets for dining downtown

DECEMBER 2011

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editor’s note Aside from the holidays, you can think of December one of two ways: It’s a month to hunker down at home, hiding from the cold and dark, frugally eating beans and reflecting on the year that’s quickly drawing to a close. Or you can think of it as the last chance to finish out the year with gusto. After all, these cold, short days just mean we have longer nights — and longer nights mean more time for parties. That’s why our December issue is all about getting together with friends. We’ll admit it’s pretty spirits-heavy, but that’s because nothing chases away the winter blues like a cocktail party. The duo at TenderBar catering has it down to a science, and they share their tips and recipes on Page 22. One daunting aspect of the party, though, is keeping the drinks Want to be sure you flowing without being get every issue of MIX? stuck making them Subscribe! all night. We’ve got a 10 issues, $20 few options for you: TenderBar’s deliGo to mixpdx.com cious punches, the or call 503-221-8240. hot Tom & Jerrys on

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Page 21 or, ahem, the jelly shots on Page 29. Now, before you scowl and shake your head, let’s make a few things clear: First, though they share the same jiggly quality as the frat-party/ dance-club Dixie cups of ill repute, our jelly shots are made with quality ingredients and set with gelatin, not a supersweet, artificially colored and flavored mix. That frees you up to make versions that taste like your favorite classic cocktails. Also, you can make them in batches ahead of time, and decorate them like fancy hors d’oeuvres. Bottom line: They’re delicious, practical and festive — so stop scowling! One thing everyone can agree on is that it’s definitely cookie season — and cake and candy season, too. Even people who swear they’re not bakers dust off their mixers this time of year to make something sweet for friends. To give your recipe collection a little update, we asked pastry

chef Kir Jensen for treats that travel well, please a crowd and still offer some unexpected twists. You’ll find her creations on Page 37. If you don’t bake, no worries. We’ve picked five delicious PX sherries (Page 45) that can stand in for dessert. If sweet isn’t your thing, or if you need a quick and easy appetizer, the marinated chèvres on Page 43 are for you. So go ahead and throw that party. Say yes to that invite. Take that long-put-off trip to the coast (Page 49) or head downtown for dinner and a show (Page 54). The year will be over in just a few short weeks. Let’s send it off in style.

Danielle Centoni, editor dcentoni@oregonian.com PHOTOGRAPH BY ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON

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Appetizers • Arancini With Bacon and Smoked Mozzarella, p27 • Black Pepper Pumpkin Butter and Pancetta on Toast, p28 • Chèvre Marinated With Beets and Capers, p43 • Chèvre Marinated With Pine Nuts, Thyme and Orange, p44 • Chèvre Marinated With Walnuts, Cherries and Oregano, p44 • Dip With Foraged Herbs, Garlic and Peppers, p26

22 Get toGether:

Getting punchy with the duo behind TenderBar cocktail catering.

29 Jelly ShotS

Grow up Part classic cocktail, part elegant canapé, they’re perfect for your next party.

37 GiFtS Good enouGh to eat We give a few old standbys some delicious twists.

in every iSSue 11 StarterS 5 winter squash recipes, beery soap, home-grown salt

45 SelectS Rich, sweet PX sherries that can stand in for dessert

17 radar Where to go and what to do this month

49 eat here Holiday getaway to Seaside

19 mixmaSter Hot drinks to chase away the cold

53 Scene Reviews of Bluehour and RingSide Fish House; where to eat when you’re downtown

43 Good cheeSe Party-ready, giftworthy marinated chèvres

60 hiGh Five Favorite pour-over cafes

ON THE COvER: Watch it wiggle, see it jiggle … bet you never thought you’d say that about a Negroni. Turns out the bitter-sweet classic makes a brilliant jelly shot. PHOTOGRAPH By ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON THIS PAGE (ABOvE): Is it art, or is it dessert? It can be hard to tell at Bluehour, where a thick brushstroke of caramel sets off a tender poached pear and rich olive oil cake. PHOTOGRAPH By RANDy L. RASMuSSEN

online extraS at mixPdx.Com: • Get pastry chef Kristen D. Murray’s (above) recipe for sweet, crispy Butternut Squash Chips, which are delicious with PX sherries

• Find out where to buy our favorite PX sherries in time for your holiday feast • Cook up a batch of Kir Jensen’s Hazelnut-Cranberry Brittle

• Save a little Batavia Arrack from the Swedish Punsch on Page 25 to make Tommy Klus’ Prospector jelly shots.

SIDE DISHES • Kabocha Squash With Red Curry and Shallots, p11 • Roast Acorn or Dumpling Squash With Sage, Honey and Black Pepper, p11 • Roast Butternut Squash With Pomegranate Molasses, Zatar and Labneh, p11 • Sautéed Delicata Squash With Browned Butter, Parsley and Almonds, p11 • Spaghetti Squash With Cumin, Feta and Mint , p11 COOKIES, CAKES AND CANDy • Cardamom Shortbread Bars With Honey-Grapefruit Marmalade, p40 • Nibby Shortbread Cookies, p41 • Spiced Pumpkin-Toffee Bread, p39 TOPPINGS • Chocolate Port-Wine Hot Fudge Sauce, p38 • Coffee Cream, p26 DRINKS (AND EDIBLE DRINKS) • Baileys and Coffee Jelly Shots, p30 • Bogberry Punch, p25 • Bootstrap Buck Jelly Shot, p34 • French 75 Jelly Shot, p33 • Negroni Jelly Shots, p31 • Pisco Sour Jelly Shot With Bitters Whipped Cream, p32 • Swedish Punsch, p25 • Tom & Jerry, p21 • Waits and Measures, p20

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contributors

hanna Neuschwander, who wrote our High Five roundup of slowcoffee cafes (Page 60), has been fascinated by the story of coffee since moving to Portland in 2005. She took a job as a barista, which turned out to be an ideal way to get to know her adopted hometown. Since then, she has written about coffee for magazines and newspapers across the region. She is the author of “Left Coast Roast: A Guide to Iconic and Artisan Coffee Roasters in the Pacific Northwest,� to be published by Timber Press in 2012.

Photographer Brian Lee learned to tell visual stories after shirking his responsibilities as a cell biologist to attend the University of Missouri’s photojournalism program. He has photographed in India, Europe, South America and the mysterious state of Wyoming. But his true love is photographing Portlanders, as he did for our Get Together story on Page 22. “Lydia and Joshua set a high bar for cocktail parties,� he says. “Not only were the cocktails creative and beautiful, but the atmosphere glowed and the food was amazing.� Besides photographing all around Portland, Lee plays boss at a creative startup called The Brewhouse. At home his boss is his 2-year-old daughter, who happily reads unsettling Maurice Sendak books while bumping along in a bike trailer.

November 25 - January 16 follow us on

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Photographer Ross William hamilton received his BFA from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago in 1974. He joined the staff of The Oregonian four years later and has been captivating readers ever since. For this issue Hamilton worked a marathon day in the photo studio, shooting everything from glowing jelly shots to moody winter squash. In fact, you’ll find his byline on almost every page. “It was a very good day,� he says. “Hang with the MIX gang in the studio, make photographs of interesting, cool looking stuff, then go home to the sixth game of the World Series.�

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Other COntributing Writers: GRANT BUTLER, PAUL CLARkE, kAThERiNE CoLE, SAShA DAViES, JohN FoySToN, TARA FULPS, kyLE o’BRiEN, LyDiA REiSSMUELLER, MiChAEL RUSSELL, DAViD SARASohN, JEN STEVENSoN Other COntributing PhOtOgraPhers/illustratOrs: DoUG BEGhTEL, ThoMAS BoyD, FAiTh CAThCART, FREDRiCk D. JoE, MoToyA NAkAMURA

Pastry chef kir Jensen, who created the recipes for our “Gifts Good Enough to Eat� feature on Page 37, is one of the most influential tastemakers in Portland. After stints at Genoa, Clarklewis and Florio Bakery, she opened her Sugar Cube food cart in 2008 and immediately gained a fervent following. Since then she’s been written up in several national publications, including Travel & Leisure, and recently won the StarChefs.com Portland Rising Star Pastry Chef award. “For me the holidays are all about comfort foods, elastic waistbands and second helpings of mashed potatoes,� she says. “It’s a time for friends and family to gather around and cook and share delicious recipes, honoring old traditions and making room for new ones. These holiday treats hit the nail on the head, both with familiar flavors as well as some welcome surprises.�

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LI 7IEWSR 8 I X E V F IPI VOLUME 5 / ISSUE 10

mixpdx.com DANIELLE CENTONI / EDITOR

dcentoni@oregonian.com

LINDA SHANKWEILER / CREATIVE DIRECTOR

lshankweiler@oregonian.com REED DARMON / DESIGNER

rdarmon@oregonian.com

WALLY BENSON, COLIN pOWERS, AMY REIfENRATH / COPY EDITORS ADVERTISING

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BARBARA SWANSON / VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES AND MARKETING bswanson@oregonian.com, 503-221-8279 STEvE uRBAN / MIX MAGAZINE MANAGER surban@oregonian.com, 503-221-8314 DENICE WILLIAMS / RETAIL ADVERTISING MANAGER dwilliams@oregonian.com, 503-221-8514 DEBI WALERY / GENERAL ADVERTISING MANAGER dwalery@oregonian.com, 503-221-8302 RYAN COuRTNEY / AUTO, REAL ESTATE ADVERTISING MANAGER rcourtney@oregonian.com, 503-221-8329 CHuCK SpITTAL / PRODUCTION COORDINATOR cspittal@oregonian.com, 503-294-4110 TO ADVERTISE STEvE uRBAN / MIX ADVERTISING MANAGER surban@oregonian.com, 503-221-8314 TO SUBSCRIBE: GO TO MIXpDX.COM OR CALL 503-221-8240 OR wRITE OREgONIAN puBLISHINg COMpANY

Attn: Circulation Dept./MIX Magazine 1320 S.w. Broadway, Portland, OR 97201 CIRCULATION hOTLINE 503-221-8240 A publication of Oregonian Publishing Co.

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starters Page 12: Pierogi class, low-brow cheese, hot bottle, bathtub beer, Oregon salt Page 14: the new Nuvrei, great beer book, best cocktail app ever

Five ways to enjoy winter squash Winter squash have a strange allure. Gorgeous in their autumnal hues, strikingly shaped and grooved, it’s hard to resist buying one in every color and size. But it’s almost as hard to resist letting them just sit there looking pretty on your dining room table. Well, get over it. They’re food, not decorations. In fact, winter squash are seriously versatile. The sweet flesh is as delicious with browned butter and almonds as it is with pomegranate molasses and zatar. Intrigued? Good. We have five fabulous minirecipes to get you started. Let’s eat.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON

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3. Sautéed Delicata 5. Spaghetti Squash 1. Roast acorn or 2. Roast Butternut 4. Kabocha Squash Squash With Browned With Cumin, Feta Dumpling Squash With Squash With With Red Curry and Sage, Honey and Black Pepper Cut squash in half, scrape out seeds, season generously with salt, and place cut-side down on an oiled baking sheet. Roast at 400 degrees until tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Flip, place knob of butter in each cavity, drizzle liberally with honey (cavity and rim), sprinkle with chopped fresh sage and thyme, season heavily with coarse-ground black pepper, and return to oven. Cook until glazed and well browned.

Pomegranate Molasses, Zatar and Labneh Peel, seed and cube butternut squash. Toss with extra-virgin olive oil, kosher salt, ground black pepper and a handful of bay leaves. Roast at 475 degrees on bottom rack until well browned and tender, 30 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally for even browning. Transfer to a serving bowl, drizzle with pomegranate molasses and dust generously with zatar and Aleppo pepper (or crushed red pepper flakes). Serve accompanied by labneh or Greek yogurt. (You can find zatar, labneh and pomegranate molasses at Middle Eastern markets such as Barbur World Foods.)

Butter, Parsley and almonds Remove seeds and slice Delicata squash crosswise into ¼-inch slices (no need to peel). Combine equal parts butter and extra-virgin olive oil in large skillet; add squash, salt and ground black pepper and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until squash has browned and softened, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle with chopped flat-leaf parsley, lemon juice to taste and toasted, sliced almonds.

Shallots Halve Kabocha squash (or cut hunks of Hubbard squash), remove seeds, roast on an oiled baking sheet at 400 degrees until completely tender, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove skin and purée meat with coconut milk and red curry paste to taste (Oregon-made Thai and True brand is quite good). Adjust seasoning with salt and lime juice. Serve topped with chopped cilantro and deep-fried crispy shallots.

and Mint Split squash in half lengthwise, remove seeds, place cut-side down on oiled baking sheet, and roast in a 400-degree oven until easily pierced with a knife (about 30 to 40 minutes). Scrape flesh from skin into large bowl, toss with plenty of good-quality extravirgin olive oil, and season generously with salt, coarse-ground pepper, pinch cayenne pepper and whole toasted cumin seeds. Top with crumbled feta and mint.

starterscONt.

Stocking Stuffers

guilty Pleasure cHeese Balls I shouldn’t admit this, certainly not in print, for fear I’ll get my connoisseur’s license revoked, but I feel compelled to come clean. I’ve always loved those neon-pink and orange port wine cheese logs. They were the highlight of the Christmas gatherings when I was growing up. While my brother gorged on Ruffles and French onion dip (my other weakness), I’d hover over the cheese log (or ball, as the case may be), eating until my mouth stung from the acidity. Then, of course, I’d switch to the onion dip. It was soothing! Whatever. I know I’m not the only one with a weakness for WisPride. Still, to lessen the guilt, I eat the cheese with crazy-good (and super-healthy) Livin’ Spoonful crackers. The Portland-made crackers are vegan, raw (they’re dehydrated rather than baked) and gluten-free — made entirely of sunflower seeds and flax seeds (no flour of any kind) with a half-dozen vegetables and herbs for flavor. The Sunny Garden Herb is my go-to, but the Coconut Curry and Pizza flavors are just as delicious. — DANIELLE CENTONI About $4 per 2.8-ounce package at livinspoonful.com, Prasad (925 N.W. Davis), and Whole Foods Hollywood. PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMuRA

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cOOk tHis autHeNtic ukraiNiaN FOOd Wish your grandmother had St. John the Baptist passed on her holiday recipes Ukrainian Orthodox Church, from the old country (instead of 8014 S.E. 16th Ave., 503-235-7129; that green bean casserole)? Or ukrainian-orthodox.org/perogies. just really have a soft spot for html. For more information on the pierogi and cabbage rolls? Sellclass and to sign up, email wood’s ukrainian church, known ukrainian.cooking.class@gmail.com for its weekly pierogi sales, continues to promote ukrainian culture and cuisine with traditional ukrainian cooking classes that start in January ($40). On Jan. 20 and 27, you can learn to make savory potato pierogi, bowls of borscht and hearty cabbage rolls with first-generation ukrainian babas. The twohour-long class will focus on traditional techniques and end with a meal (and some leftovers to take home). Just want to eat the pierogi, not make them? Every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., you can fill up on hot, fresh pierogi in the church’s social room, or take them to go. Better yet, take home a bag of frozen pierogi to cook later. — DEENA PRICHEP

Beer suds

HydrO Flask

Who needs another reusable water bottle, right? Well, how about one that’s made of double-walled, vacuuminsulated stainless steel? If that sounds like marketing mumbo jumbo to you, let’s clarify: double-walled vacuum insulation means the temperature inside the bottle has a hard time conducting to the outside of the bottle and vice versa. Contents stay piping hot for hours —12 in the case of the Hydro Flask — or cold for 24, and the outside doesn’t sweat (no sandy beach issues). And stainless steel means no BPA and completely recyclable. Not that you’ll ever need to recycle the Hydro Flask, which comes in six sizes from 12 to 64 ounces, is powder coated in eight colors, and is seemingly indestructible — hence its lifetime warranty. The slim profile means the bottles easily fit into both your bike’s bottle cage and your car’s cup holders. And the company, based in Bend, even donates 5 percent of the purchase price to a charity of your choosing. About $24 for 18-ounce bottle. Visit hydroflask.com for a list of stores or to order online. — DANIELLE CENTONI

Of all the many features of the Pacific Northwest, the vast array of local microbrews has to be one of the very best. What’s even better? A microbrew that you can take into the shower, perhaps? Dennis Anderson, a Portland native, turns delicious brews such as Hopworks DOA, Rogue Dead Guy Ale and Widmer Hefeweizen into handmade soaps sold through his Etsy store. Made with rich ingredients like olive oil and shea butter, his cruelty-free soaps, lip balms and body butters are wonderfully moisturizing, and come in dozens of delicious scents beyond microbrews. My man loves the Oatmeal Stout bar soap, and I’m partial to the Lemon Sugar Cookie Olive Oil bar (both veganfriendly). — TARA FuLPS Anderson Soap Co., etsy.com/shop/dennisanderson

OregON sea salt

Ben Jacobsen fell in love with locally harvested sea salts when he was living abroad in Copenhagen, Denmark, and Oslo, Norway. upon moving to Oregon, he wondered why our own food scene didn’t include locavore salt. He has now resolved this problem with Jacobsen Salt Co., his new line of sea salts harvested from prime spots in Oceanside and Netarts. Jacobsen’s extraction process produces a crystal structure that offers maximum crunch, making this an ab-fab garnish to sprinkle atop finished dishes. — KATHERINE COLE

About $5 for a 4-ounce package at New Seasons Markets, Pastaworks, Food Front, Alberta Co-op, Salt & Straw and FoodShed (ourfoodshed.com).

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Light up your holidays! 14

with beautiful handcrafted lamps from our unique collection

KINZIG DESIGN

Visit us for Fine art, crafts and gifts

Yamhills Gallery & Gifts 901 N. Brutscher St, Suite F Newberg, OR 503-538-1311 YamhillsGallery.com Open daily 10am-5pm

Since 2008, Marius Pop has kept Portland’s best cafes supplied with stellar French and AmeriNuvrei can pastries that walk the line between rustic and delicate, hearty and refined. In October, 404 N.W. 10th Ave. Nuvrei emerged from its underground Pearl District bakery to open a bustling (and somewhat nuvrei.com. cramped) cafe upstairs. Serving Coava coffee and Foxfire tea along with its well-regarded pastries, the cafe also offers a new menu of sandwiches and salads. The pretzel-dough bagels are outstanding, particularly the onion flavor, which has a tousle of thinly sliced caramelized onions baked into the top. The sandwich menu features a brawny croque monsieur (ham from Tails and Trotters) on brioche, while the delicate smoked salmon with cucumber is served on mauricette (pretzel bread). With such beautiful baking, it almost feels improper to order a salad. — HANNA NEuSCHWANDER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RANDY L. RASMuSSEN

read tHis driNkOlOgy Beer

dOwNlOad tHis cOcktail aPP

I’ve been writing about beer for 20 years, so I know a bit about the subject, yet I learn something new every time I open this book. James Waller set out to write for the absolute novice and, in doing so, he reminds us experts that we can all stand to brush up on the basics. He leads the reader through the history of beer and the brewing process. He educates on pub etiquette (don’t tip in a London pub, as he once tried to) and beer culture (including songs, games and the role of beer in films and TV), and provides an A-Z of beer styles. And he does all of this in an engaging, conversational style that entertains and explains in surprising depth. There’s even information on homebrewing, beer cocktails, the basics of food-and-beer pairing and beery recipes such as Kentucky beer cheese, cheddar-cauliflower beer soup and mussels steamed in beer. Designwise, Drinkology is old school: lots of type, charming line drawings and none of the graphic fripperies that some recent beer books seem to find necessary. It makes for a solid package. — JOHN FOYSTON “Drinkology Beer� by James Waller (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $22.50)

It’s hard to throw a cocktail party when you haven’t the faintest clue how to make a proper drink. If you have an iPad, though, you’re in luck, because one of the best cocktail books out there just happens to be in electronic form. “Speakeasy Cocktails� ($9.99 at iTunes) is an iPad app that offers way more than just another recipe database. Written by two award-winning Manhattan bartenders — Jim Meehan from PDT and Joseph Schwartz from Little Branch — it offers video tutorials on everything from shaking drinks to stocking your home bar, plus crystal-clear informational pages on things like the finer points of ice. The hundreds of interactive recipes cover classic cocktails everyone should know, plus “new standards� from top craft cocktail bars, including Beaker & Flask. — DANIELLE CENTONI

Annie Bloom’s Books Annastasia Salon Birdie’s Teas, Cards & Gifts Down to Earth Café Fat City Café Geezer Gallery Healthy Pets Northwest Indigo Traders Jacqueline’s Found & Fabulous Jealous Gardener Jones and Jones Jewelers Jules of Morocco Clothing Knack Lovin Spoonful Pie’s Marco’s Café Multnomah Antiques Multnomah Arts Center O’Connor’s Restaurant Otto & Anita’s Schnitzel Haus Peggy Sunday’s SAID Interiors Sip D’Vine Sweets, Etc. Switch Shoes & Clothing The Village Hut Thinker Toys Topanien Global Gifts Village Beads Village Frame & Gallery

Multnomah Village

Shop Local All Month Long with Holiday Golden Ticket Discounts Minutes from Downtown I-5 South, Exit 296B

The Village in the Heart of Portland

Fri Dec 2

Tree Lighting 6:42 pm Carolers, Hot Cocoa, Horse-drawn Carriage Rides and Other Great Fun!

Sat Dec 3

Pancake Breakfast with Santa at Lucky Lab, 8:00 - 11:00 am

Dec 1-3

Annual Arts & Crafts Sale at MAC multnomahvillage.org

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All Ticketmaster Retail Locations including Fred Meyer (select locations) and other independent locations.

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ales under the tree

Through Dec. 4 One of portland’s tastiest christmas traditions is the Holiday Ale Festival, a fiveday celebration of seasonal spirits in pioneer courthouse square. if it’s chilly, heated tents protect beer fans from the elements while the city’s holiday tree shimmers above. On tap are some of the region’s best brews, including hopworks urban brewery’s Kentucky christmas and bridgeport brewing company’s Old Knucklehead barley Wine. holidayale.com

last call at the marKet

Dec. 17 it’s the last satur-

day edition of the Portland Farmers Market until it returns at the end of march. pick up culinary gifts like jars of pickles, spice mixes that will warm up winter stews, as well as tokens, which will be good next year and make great stocking stuffers. portlandfarmersmarket.org

happy hOliday Feet

Dec. 10-24 Oregon Ballet Theatre’s production of George Balanchine’s “The Nutcracker” returns, sharing the stage with Christopher Stowell’s lighthearted “A holiday revue,” featuring popular vocalist Susannah Mars singing Christmas classics. The two shows give dance fans the choice between old traditions and new. obt.org

raise yOur vOice, raise the rOOF

Dec. 9-11 charles Floyd and the northwest community gospel choir join forces with the Oregon symphony for the 13th edition of “Gospel Christmas,” featuring highenergy performances of spirituals, carols and holiday favorites. before or after the show, check out the new dining options near the arlene schnitzer concert hall, including ringside Fish house (see our review on page 56) and ruth’s chris steakhouse. orsymphony.org ringsidefishhouse.com ruthschris.com

light the menOrah!

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Dec. 20-28 this year

Hanukkah arrives later in the month than usual, and baker & spice in hillsdale is ready with lunch offerings like freshly made latkes, smoked salmon and all the trimmings. if you’re grabbing sweets to go, they’ve got rugalach, ricotta tarts and decorated star of david cookies. bakerandspicebakery.com

FOrget yOur trOubles, cOme On, get crabby

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seasOn’s eatings

Dec. 25 merry christmas! back in 1714, england’s King george i — who is sometimes called “the pudding King” — brought back the custom of Christmas pudding, which had been banned by

Dec. 10 Dungeness crab fishing season opens in early december, and there is no better time to get more familiar with this tasty crustacean than at this special cooking class from chef adam Kaplan. You’ll learn how to cook crab several different ways and use them in everything from light salads to comforting entrees — and, of course, crab cakes. ingoodtastestore.com

the puritans because of its decadence. although plum pudding dates back to medieval england, george turned it into a holiday essential. Whether the dense, boozy, suet-and-plum cake is a holiday essential on your table is another matter entirely.

ring in the neW

Dec. 31 staying home on New Year’s Eve? boring! this is one of the biggest nights at portland restaurants, when chefs pull out all the stops with special menus designed to go with champagne. dress up, wear festive hats and make a special toast as the clock nears midnight. For opulence, check out bluehour, which will have a unique menu from new chef thomas boyce (see our review on page 54), or go with favorites like genoa, nostrana, paley’s place or castagna. — cOmpiled by grant butler

phOtOgraph by randy l. rasmussen

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SW Portland’s year-round source for local produce, cheeses, meats, eggs and more, the Hillsdale Farmers’ Market is held in the Wilson High-Rieke Elementary parking lot. Parking entrance at SW Capitol Hwy and SW Sunset Blvd. Debit and SNAP cards accepted.

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Hillsdale Eye Care is dedicated to providing personalized eye care based on the patient’s individual needs. We enjoy working with patients requiring demanding visual needs such as sports vision, difficult to fit contact lens (bifocal or astigmatism) and children’s eye care. Call for appointment, open 6 days a week. 1522 SW Sunset Blvd. 503.672.9190 www.hillsdaleeye.com

Open Sundays 10am-2pm Winter Dates: Dec 4, 18; Jan 8, 22; Feb 5, 19; Mar 4, 18; Apr 1, 15 Weekly season begins May 6, 2012

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You will want to stop by the Holiday Sale – 20% off all sweaters, jackets, earrings and scarves. With a unique, fun collection of women’s clothing and accessories, Paloma Clothing is always the perfect choice when it comes to excellent service and a knowledgeable staff.

http://hillsdalefarmersmarket.com 503-475-6555 4

Holiday Sale: Thurs.-Sun., Dec. 1-4 Special Sale Hours: Thurs. 10-8, Fri. 10-7, Sat. 10-6, Sun. 10-5 6316 SW. Capitol Hwy. 503.246.3417 www.palomaclothing.com 7

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Sweetwares

Three Square Grill

Korkage Wine Shop

At SweetWares, we love to bake and want to share that passion with others. We have stocked our shelves with a carefullyselected array of simple and useful tools of our trade. We have wares to lure a new baker into the kitchen or to bring a bit of excitement back to an expert baker looking for a muse. We offer classes where you can brush up on familiar techniques or learn the latest trick in cake decorating. Located 8 doors from our sister bakery, Baker & Spice. 6306 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.546.3737 www.sweetwares.com

With an emphasis on regional American foods, traditional preparations, and close relationships with local farmers and producers, Three Square Grill has been Hillsdale’s neighborhood restaurant since 1995 as well as the home of Picklopolis – The Kingdom of the Brine, purveyor of fine pickles and preserves. Dinner: Tuesday – Saturday, 5 - 9 p.m. Breakfast: Sunday, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m. 6320 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.244.4467 www.threesquare.com www.picklopolis.com

Enjoy wine tasting, live music and small bite pairings in an intimate setting, featuring local boutique wineries and selected picks from around the world. You can even shop for a custom gift set for the wine lovers in your life. The Korkage Chef, former instructor at a top hospitality school, offers expert wine consults - find just the right bottle for that special gift or holiday event!

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6351 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.293.3146 www.korkagewine.com

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Food Front Haircolor Salon Dirk

www.HillsdaleBusiness.org

In 1989 the birth of Haircolor Salon Dirk took shape. With continuing education as the root of Jo-Anna’s vision. It is now 2011 and the next step for this salon is becoming a Paul Mitchell Focus Salon - exclusively featuring John Paul Mitchell Systems products, including hair care, hair color, and other chemical service products. Embracing the Paul Mitchell culture and brand, delivering a consistent message, product usage and educational strategy for each and every client visiting Haircolor Salon Dirk a Paul Mitchell Focus Salon. Watch for our unfolding into a newer hip salon coming shortly. 1517 SW Sunset Blvd. 503-244-4242 www.haircolorsalondirk.com; www.skincarebycategory.com

Hillsdale Neighborhood

Food Front is Hillsdale’s freshest source for local and natural foods including organic produce; fine wines; artisan breads & cheeses; fresh, local meats; and fair trade coffee and chocolate. Open 8am-9pm Daily 6344 SW Capitol Hwy. Hillsdale Shopping Center 503.546.6559 www.foodfront.coop

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Baker & Spice Looking for a cozy place to enjoy coffee and a pastry with a friend? Baker & Spice is a small batch bakery that uses traditional methods and the highest quality ingredients to create our pastries, cakes, breads and savories. We love the upcoming Holiday treats. Tender pies, buttery pull-apart rolls, rugelach and gorgeous Yule logs will all be here to help sweeten the season. Order ahead for your holiday table. Menus online & in print as available Tue-Fri 6am-6pm; Sat 7am-6pm; Sun 7am-3pm 6330 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.244.7573 www.bakerandspicebakery.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Darcy Paquette at 503.221.8299 or dpaquette@oregonian.com

mixmaster [ Steaming hot drinks to warm you up right ] by paul clarke / photograph by roSS WIllIaM haMIltoN

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n our modern era of Polarfleece, central heating and electronic gadgets that can turn a frigid leather car seat into a warm, soothing easy chair in a matter of moments, it’s easy to underappreciate the role of hot drinks in our liquid heritage. But for most of american history, winter was a fearsome thing, and keeping the cold at bay required more than simply donning a sweater and throwing another log on the fire. today, of course, we still start our days with steaming cups of coffee or tea, and hot chocolate and mulled cider make frequent appearances in our mugs around this time of year. But there’s a type of chill that simply can’t be dispelled by a triple soy latte; for these times, it’s useful to turn to the liquor cabinet and to reach into our history of hot, boozy drinks. Chronicles of early american drinks tell of tankards filled with a thick batter of rum, ale, cream and eggs, brought to a searing heat by plunging a red-hot loggerhead into the hissing mix. Hot punches,

shivering guests. Familiar drinks such as the hot toddy and hot buttered rum, along with their modern relatives, are increasingly appearing on bar menus alongside hot drinks of a more recent vintage, such as the rich and warming Spanish coffee, which huber’s has been famous for since putting it on the menu in the 1970s. this winter, portland bartenders are preparing a mighty alcoholic arsenal to defeat the season’s chill. at kask, tommy klus is formulating plans to offer three-drink flights of hot toddies, with each version made with a different base spirit and sweetener, so guests can sample a whisky toddy flavored with honey alongside a mezcal toddy with agave nectar, and a rum toddy with demerara sugar. hot buttered rum gets a distinctly different twist at teardrop lounge, where the venerable drink is made with hot cider and topped with foie gras butter. at clyde common, a more classically styled hot buttered rum is flavored

to help warm up patrons at rum club this winter, bartender Dave Shenaut is turning some of the bar’s tiki and classic-cocktail favorites into hot toddies, including the potent Waits and Measures, which he based on the bijou cocktail. photography by FaIth cathcart

Waits and Measures MakeS 1 ServINg

rum club barman (and tom Waits fan) Dave Shenaut took inspiration from a classic cocktail called the bijou (normally served cold) and gave it a toddy twist, resulting in this beguiling, powerfully flavored winter warmer. 1½ ounces aged cuban-style rum (Shenaut uses Flor de caĂąa 4-year-old gold rum) 1½ ounces bonal gentiane-Quina ½ ounce white Martinique rum (rhum JM blanc is recommended) ½ ounce yellow chartreuse ½ ounce honey syrup (see below) 2 ounces boiling water garnish: orange wheel studded with 2 cloves with nutmeg, allspice and cloves, and given extra richness with vanilla ice cream. at paragon in the pearl District, beverage director bob brunner recently added an allspice toddy to the season’s menu, along with the barnburner, a toddy-like combination of apple brandy and ginger liqueur. rum club bartender Dave

rinse a glass toddy mug with boiling water to preheat, then add ingredients and stir to combine. garnish with the orange wheel. To make the honey syrup: combine ½ cup honey with ½ cup hot water and stir until well mixed. keep refrigerated until use. — Dave Shenaut, Rum Club, Portland ÂŁ

Shenaut plans to make hot drinks a major feature of the season’s menu. Shenaut is incorporating a singleorigin brew from Water avenue coffee into upscale tweaks of classic Spanish and Irish coffees, as well as offering rum-based toddies and experimenting with more elaborate preparations. “We’re talking about doing tiki

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mulled wine and variations on the hot toddy were immensely popular in 19th-century america, and period bartender catalogs featured listings for bar kettles specially designed to fit atop a potbellied stove. In 1862, the pioneering bar guide published by New york barman Jerry thomas listed nearly 40 recipes for hot drinks, including his signature preparation, a floor-show combination of boiling water and flaming whisky known as the blue blazer. another drink from thomas’ era — a hot, potent relative of eggnog known as the tom & Jerry — remained a favorite winter warmer in much of the country until the mid-20th century. although the tom & Jerry and the blue blazer have recently been resurrected by craft bartenders, the contemporary selection of hot drinks is still much smaller than it was a century ago. but each winter, as the mercury takes a dip, more bartenders dig out vintage recipes and give them fresh tweaks before presenting these preparations to

7858 SW Capitol Highway Portland Oregon 97219 503-223-6020

toddies, bringing in tropical fruit flavors and adding that to warm spice flavors,â€? Shenaut says. “classic tiki ingredients like falernum or house-made almond syrup, they go great in hot drinks.â€? rum club will also take cocktails typically prepared cold and reinterpret them as hot drinks, such as a classic bijou reimagined as a rum-based toddy with the French aperitif bonal and yellow chartreuse. and inspired by the flaming flair of huber’s Spanish coffee, Shenaut is also working on variations of Jerry thomas’ blue blazer, a recent manifestation of which — dubbed the blue blue blazer — was made with high-proof Jamaican rum and blue curaçao.

hot drinks have largely been overlooked during the current cocktail renaissance, but this winter is seeing bartenders in portland and across the country digging into the category with fresh energy. For Shenaut, placing hot drinks in the season’s spotlight offers something of a creative challenge, but the real motivation is provided by the simple pleasure such drinks can bring on a dark, frigid winter evening. “We’re not going to do anything groundbreaking, and we aren’t going to change drinking culture with these,� Shenaut says. “but knowing you can get a really good hot drink that’s not just coffee, bourbon and whipped cream — that’s really appealing.�

tom & Jerry MakeS 12 ServINgS

First introduced in the mid-1800s, the tom & Jerry remained a cold-weather favorite for more than 100 years — in the ’50s and ’60s it inspired parties equipped with a special mug and punchbowl set — before dwindling in popularity in the late 20th century (though it’s still a favorite in the Midwest). audrey Saunders, owner of pegu club in New york city and now a resident of Seattle, is one of the craft bartenders credited with reviving the tom & Jerry’s fortunes. this is an adaptation of her take on the classic drink. It’s like a lighter, frothier, more potent version of eggnog (yes, it has raw eggs). the batter may be prepared in advance, but keep it refrigerated, stir it well before serving and use it the same day you make it.

Batter: 6 egg yolks 1 pound granulated sugar 1 ounce aged cuban-style rum (bacardi 8 is recommended) 1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground allspice Ÿ teaspoon ground cloves Ÿ teaspoon ground nutmeg 2 dashes angostura bitters 6 egg whites For serving: 8 cups whole milk ½ 750ml bottle aged cubanstyle rum (bacardi 8 is recommended) ½ 750ml bottle vS cognac (courvoisier is recommended) Freshly grated nutmeg

To prepare the batter: beat the yolks until well mixed, then whisk in the sugar, rum, vanilla, spices and bitters. beat until thoroughly combined. In another bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then gently fold them into yolk mixture until combined. cover and refrigerate until ready to use. To serve: heat the milk in a saucepan over medium-low heat until hot, but not boiling. give the batter a stir, then scoop 2 ounces of batter into a tom & Jerry cup or a toddy mug. add 1 ounce rum and 1 ounce cognac, then fill the mug with hot milk, stirring as you add the hot liquid so a nice foam develops on top of the drink (for a less rich tom & Jerry, replace half of the hot milk with boiling water). Dust with freshly grated nutmeg. — Adapted from Audrey Saunders £

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GET TOGETHER [ Pulling off the perfect coktail party ] By LYDIA REISSMUELLER / Photography by BRIAN LEE

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love throwing parties — specifically cocktail parties. That’s no surprise, considering my love of libations has been building over the past six years, most notably as a bartender at Please Don’t Tell in New York and more recently as bar manager at Central and co-owner of TenderBar, a cocktail catering company, in Portland. Still, my infatuation with cocktail parties goes deeper than my professional interest. It’s almost part of my psyche. In fact, I have a very specific idea in my mind of how they should go. I’m not sure exactly what contributed to this image, probably a mix of things I’ve gleaned from films and books, coupled with the fact that my parents met at one toward the end of the fabulous ’50s. In any case, this notion of brimming ice buckets, bubbly conversations, glasses clinking and everyone loosened up is something I crave. It’s an atmosphere of somewhat organized chaos, set to the tempo of whatever is on the stereo. And I can’t get enough. To me, a good cocktail party starts with good cocktails. There’s nothing

festive about mediocre drinks made with a bunch of store-bought mixes. It’s like having a dinner party and serving frozen pizza. Good cocktails are built on honest mixes made with meticulously processed seasonal produce, natural sweeteners and quality spirits. That’s what separates delicious drinks from those that are just vehicles for booze. Fortunately, there’s a whole category of mixed drinks perfectly suited to entertaining: punch. Instead of being stuck behind the shaker, mixing one or two drinks at a time, make punches. They can be made ahead of time (and are usually more delicious that way) and guests can help themselves. Like any single-serving cocktail, punch can take a variety of forms — bubbly or still, hot or cold, sweet or pleasantly bitter. I like to put a good deal of thought into the night’s selection, considering different palates and tastes, so guests have some variety to keep things interesting over the course of the night. For a holiday party with friends, I made a crowd-pleasing cranberryorange Bogberry Punch with local Aviation gin and Vincent cranberry juice, plus sparkling wine for a little effervescent fizz. For something a little more complex, I also set out a big bowl

The Menu Chips and Dip With Foraged Herbs, Garlic and Peppers Black Pepper Pumpkin Butter and Pancetta on Toast Arancini With Bacon and Smoked Mozzarella Platter of pickled carrots, fennel and Hidden Rose apples Warm olives marinated with orange, chiles, thyme and rosemary Local cured meats from Olympic Provisions and Laurelhurst Market

Grilled sausages and mustard Fritto misto of winter squash and apples with chiles, herbs, honey and pecorino Selection of cheeses from Cheese Bar Spiced nuts Saint Cupcake’s bonbonbunbuns with whipped Coffee Cream Bogberry Punch Swedish Punsch Cana’s Feast Chinato and Blood Orange Dry Soda (pour a jigger full of Chinato over ice, top with the soda)

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of spicy Swedish Punsch, made with local Krogstad Aquavit, Batavia Arrack (an earthy Indonesian rumlike distillate), ginger-honey syrup and fresh citrus juices. Instead of making a third punch, I set out the ingredients for a simple cocktail guests could make themselves according to their taste — Cana’s Feast Chinato, Dry Soda’s blood orange soda and ice. It’s a fun way to let people craft a custom drink, no bartending experience required. Of course, it wouldn’t be a real party without food, and that’s where my partner in business and in life, Joshua McFadden, comes in. A professional chef who’s worked in restaurants from San Francisco to Rome, he has a way of coming up with great menus that take advantage of what’s available at the farmers market. We both find inspiration from what’s in season, and then we get creative with the ways we prepare and serve it. Joshua says nothing goes better with cocktails than fried food, so the highlights

of his menu included a fritto misto of squash, apples, chiles and herbs with honey and pecorino; bacon and smoked mozzarella arancini; and chips with a creamy dip of foraged herbs, garlic and peppers. To keep the menu manageable, Joshua advises against trying to make everything yourself. “Have a few items that take a bit of time, but fill in the menu with local cured meats, cheese and roasted nuts from the market.” In the end, one of the things I love most about throwing these parties is walking around and seeing all the listmaking, shopping and cooking come to fruition. I love seeing people mingling and chatting, coming and going, as the group whittles down to the last few. I even enjoy cleaning up — though less than the actual mess-making — as I mull over the evening while gathering the glasses and packing everything away. Every party seems to have a life of its own. I can’t wait to see how the next one unfolds.

Playlist We like to play whole albums: Bob Dylan, Townes Van Zandt, the Band, Run DMCand Wilco, to name a few. And whatever a guest cues up is always entertaining!

Swedish Punsch Makes about 30 servings

This intriguingly spiced punch packs a wallop, but you can dilute it with water to lessen the impact a bit. Bottle and cork any extra, as all those high-proof spirits mean it’ll keep in the fridge for months. 1 (750 ml) bottle Krogstad Aquavit 1 (750 ml) bottle Batavia Arrack (see note) 20 ounces (2½ cups) honey-ginger syrup (see below)

Bogberry Punch Makes about 15 servings

You can’t go wrong with gin, Cointreau and cranberry juice, but add a smidgen of almond extract and a bottle of bubbly and this punch turns wonderfully festive. 1 (750 ml) bottle of Aviation Gin

20 ounces (2½ cups) fresh-squeezed lemon juice

10 ounces (1¼ cups) Vincent Family cranberry juice (or other unsweetened brand)

20 ounces (2½ cups) fresh-squeezed orange juice

10 ounces Cointreau

Garnish: candied ginger

10 ounces (1¼ cups) freshsqueezed orange juice

In a punch bowl, combine all ingredients and stir well. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 2 hours or up to 4 days. To serve, stir well and add an ice ring. Ladle about 5 ounces over ice and garnish with candied ginger. Honey-ginger syrup: In a small saucepan, combine 1 cup finely chopped fresh ginger and 1½ cups water. Simmer slowly over medium heat for 20 minutes. Stir in 1½ cups raw honey, remove from heat and let cool. Strain and refrigerate until cold. Note: Batavia Arrack is a rum-like spirit made from sugarcane and rice. It has an almost spiced flavor that goes particularly well with notes of chocolate and citrus. It’s a common ingredient in pre-prohibition punch recipes. To find a store that carries it, visit olcc.com. — Lydia Reissmueller, TenderBar, Portland

2 teaspoons pure almond extract 1 bottle dry sparkling wine (such as Gruet Brut, or cava) Garnish: orange twists In a punch bowl, combine all ingredients except the sparkling wine and garnish. Stir well. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 2 hours or up to 4 days. Just before serving, stir well, add the sparkling wine and an ice ring. To serve, ladle about 6 ounces into a glass. Garnish with an orange twist. — Lydia Reissmueller, TenderBar, Portland

Punch tips Plan ahead: Make the punches three or four days in advance, to allow the ingredients melding time and to be sure the liquid is thoroughly chilled. Ice: Large rings or blocks of ice melt more slowly than cubes and aren’t as likely to overdilute your punch — especially if the punch is refrigerator-cold to start with. Make ice rings for your punches two days in advance, using a Bundt pan or any large plastic container (freeze it on a cookie sheet to keep the bottom flat). The ice should be as large as possible, but small enough to allow plenty of room for the ladle. To decorate the ring, add fruits, herbs or edible flowers before freezing. Fizz: Carbonated drinks begin to go flat after two hours, so if you’re serving a sparkling punch, don’t add the fizzy ingredient until just before serving. If you want the fizz to last longer, serve just half the punch first. Refrigerate the rest of the punch and sparkling ingredient separately until ready for round two. Heat: If you want to serve a hot punch, you can keep it hot in a slow cooker. Timing: If it’s going to be a long night, serve your cold punch in smaller batches so you don’t end up with a bowl of tepid, diluted punch by the end of the night. Just keep the remainder refrigerated and have several ice rings at the ready. Garnish: You can put out a tray of garnishes for guests to add to their drinks, such as edible flowers, herb sprigs, cinnamon sticks or citrus slices and twists, but from my experience, if the garnish isn’t already in the bowl, it won’t end up in the glass. — L.R.

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Coffee Cream

Party tips Keep track: Friends always ask what they can

do to help, but it can be hard to delegate when the party preparations live on a list in your head. I like to make sure I have all the day-of tasks written on our chalkboard (a rectangle of chalkboard paint on our office wall), so Joshua and I both know what needs to be accomplished. Plus we get the pleasure of checking things off when they get done, assigned or both. When assigning tasks to friends, think about who is good at what. Does somebody live close to the ice cream, cheese or butcher shop and can pick something up? Would someone want to come over early to help with prep? Write out your menu and post it in the kitchen (again chalkboard paint, on our kitchen door). That way you won’t forget to pull something out of the fridge or that one key topping for your dish. It’s an easy oversight when you’ve had a few glasses of punch, trust me.

Decorate: When you’re intent on the food and

drink it’s easy to forget about decorating, but adding a few small touches will make the party feel more special. You don’t have to spend a fortune to do it. Find little trinkets from nature, like pinecones and rose hips, and cluster them around the punch bowl or buffet table. Candles get a lot of play at our parties, giving a low illumination to bottles of drinkables, as part of table lighting and around shelving. Use a variety of shapes and sizes in varying glass containers (like Ball jars) to give your place a cozy and festive feel.

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Use labels: Making labels for the foods and beverages, and even listing where the components are from, adds a thoughtful touch. First, people will want to know what they are eating and drinking. But also, if there’s an ingredient you’re excited about, chances are your guests would be excited, too, but they have to know about it first. We love the bonbonbunbuns from Saint Cupcake and decided to set out a few dozen to go with a Coava coffee-infused whipped cream Joshua made for dipping. A label telling our guests what the buns were and where they came from, gave them something to talk about — and the chance to put them on their own shopping lists. Setting up: Set out all the serving dishes before filling them, so you know you have the bowls and platters you need and you know where they go. Have all your implements, like beer and wine openers, laid out ahead of time, too, so you don’t end up scrounging around at the last minute. Don’t forget to put out a trash can and a bag for recycling.

Handling guests: When new guests arrive, be

sure to give them the lay of the land (the bar, the bathroom, where to smoke) so they don’t feel lost. And introduce folks who don’t know each other with a little bit about them, or how you know them. After you’ve done it a few times, your guests will follow your lead and welcome people for you, allowing you time to wander. Keep a few taxi numbers handy in case anyone feels in need of a ride home.

— L.R.

Makes 4 cups

Dessert doesn’t have to be a timeconsuming endeavor, especially when there are so many great bakeries around town happy to do the work for you. Joshua McFadden likes to set out a tray of bonbonbunbuns from Saint Cupcake alongside a few bowls of delicious things to dip them in, such as this whipped cream infused with La Guachoca coffee beans from Coava, and some crushed salted peanuts. Even if you don’t go the bun route, you can use this cream to perk up a storebought chocolate cake or tart, or even a make-your-own sundae bar. 2 cups heavy whipping cream ½ cup coffee beans ¼ cup granulated sugar Pinch of salt

In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, coffee beans, sugar and salt. Bring just to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and allow to cool for several minutes. Pour the mixture into an airtight container and refrigerate overnight. Strain out the beans and discard. Using a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the infused cream until very soft peaks form. (Don’t overwhip; you are just going for a step or two below whipped cream.) — Adapted from Joshua McFadden, TenderBar, Portland

Dip With Foraged Herbs, Garlic and Peppers Makes about 1½ cups

1 clove garlic

Joshua McFadden says his first incarnation of this dip was born while he was living on the East Coast. “I worked on a small farm that was a short walk from the ocean, where there was an abundance of wild sea vegetables that found their way into some crème fraîche I had made, plus a few wild and cultivated things from the farm.” To a base of sour cream or crème fraîche mixed with smashed garlic, dried or fresh chiles, salt and cracked black pepper, you can add just about any seasonal herb or edible flower you can think of. Follow the recipe below, or let inspiration take hold. “There is no wrong way to make this dip,” says McFadden, who often adds borage, violas and verbena when they’re in season. “There are so many different things to add throughout the year. It’s something to think about next time you’re at the farmers market, in the woods or out at the coast.”

½ serrano pepper or ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 8 ounces crème fraîche or cultured sour cream (such as Nancy’s) ⁄3 cup chopped watercress

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1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme ½ teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest Juice of ½ lemon Salt and freshly ground black pepper Smash the garlic and mix with the pepper or pepper flakes (a mortar and pestle works great for this). In a bowl, mix together the crème fraîche or sour cream and garlic mixture. Stir in the watercress, thyme, rosemary, lemon zest and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add more seasonings if desired. Serve with thick-cut potato chips. — Adapted from Joshua McFadden, TenderBar, Portland

Arancini With Bacon and Smoked Mozzarella Makes about 40 1-ounce balls

Creamy and oozy with smoky goodness from cheese and bacon, these little fried rice balls are serious crowd-pleasers. Make things easy on yourself and divide up the prep over a couple of days. The risotto can be made several days in advance, and the balls can be shaped and breaded up to 1 day in advance, or frozen. 4 to 6 cups low-sodium chicken stock ½ pound bacon, cut crosswise into Ÿ-inch strips 1 large onion, minced 1½ cups arborio rice ½ cup dry white wine 1 bunch green onions, sliced (½ cup) ½ pound smoked mozzarella, shredded (1 packed cup) 2 eggs Ÿ cup milk or water 1 to 1½ cups all-purpose flour 2 to 3 cups panko Vegetable oil for frying

In a medium saucepan, bring chicken stock to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover and keep hot.

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Meanwhile, place a large sautÊ pan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon pieces and cook, stirring frequently, until crispy. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon, letting the excess grease drip off, and allow to cool on a paper-towellined plate. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon grease. Add the minced onion and sautÊ, stirring frequently, until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the rice and sautÊ for about 1 minute. Pour in the white wine and scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Allow rice to absorb the wine, then ladle in about ½ cup of the hot chicken stock. Simmer, stirring frequently, until broth is almost absorbed, about 4 minutes. Add more broth, ½ to 1 cup at a time, allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding the next, until the rice is tender and the mixture is creamy, about 20 to 30 minutes more. Remove from heat and stir in the sliced green onions, cooked bacon and shredded mozzarella. Allow mixture to cool completely before rolling into balls. (Risotto can be made several days in advance and refrigerated.) Scoop up the risotto in 2-tablespoonsize (1-ounce) portions. Roll between your palms to form uniform balls and arrange on a large baking sheet or tray.

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In a shallow bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk. Place the flour and the panko in two separate shallow bowls. Working with one ball at a time, coat each in flour, then in the egg mixture, and then the panko. Refrigerate until ready to fry. (Balls can be shaped and breaded 1 day ahead.) Pour vegetable oil into a deep skillet or heavy pot until it’s about 1½ inches deep. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it registers 360 degrees on a deep-frying thermometer. Working in batches of about 6 (to avoid crowding the pan and lowering the temperature of the oil), fry the balls, turning, until golden brown on all sides. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer balls to a paper towel-lined tray or plate to drain briefly. Return oil to 360 degrees between batches. — Adapted from Joshua McFadden, TenderBar, Portland

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Black Pepper Pumpkin Butter and Pancetta on Toast Makes about 30

Joshua McFadden prefers to roast his own pumpkins for his sweet-hot pumpkin butter, but a couple of cans of store-bought purée work just fine, too. It gets cooked down a bit until very thick, then doctored up with cracked black pepper and maple syrup. You can follow the amounts below, or let your palate guide you, as McFadden does. “I add a great deal of black pepper because I like to balance the sweetness of the pumpkin with the heat of the pepper.” 2 (15-ounce cans) pumpkin purée (or 4 cups homemade purée) ¾ teaspoon salt 28

1¼ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon grade B maple syrup 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 6 ounces thinly sliced pancetta (30 slices) 1 loaf ciabatta bread 2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary or ¼ cup torn sage leaves Sea salt To make the pumpkin butter: Cook the pumpkin purée in a medium saucepan set over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until thickened and reduced to 2½ cups, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the salt, pepper, maple syrup and butter. (Pumpkin butter can be made several days in advance and refrigerated. Reheat gently before serving.) To make the pancetta: Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place a cooling rack on a rimmed baking sheet and arrange the pancetta slices on top. Roast pancetta for 5 minutes, turn over with tongs, and cook another 3 to 4 minutes until cooked through and crisp. To make the toasts: Set oven to broil. Slice the ciabatta in half lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1⁄2-inch-thick slices. Arrange slices on a baking sheet and broil briefly until just beginning to brown (you want the bread warmed and crisped on one side, but still chewy). To assemble: Smear about 1 tablespoon of pumpkin purée on each toast. Top with a slice of pancetta and sprinkle with minced rosemary or torn sage leaves and sea salt. — Adapted from Joshua McFadden, TenderBar, Portland £

jelly shots

grow up

We know what you’re thinking, but stay with us. These bite-size drinks have nothing in common with the day-glo jigglers from college. A cross between a classic cocktail and an elegant canapé, they’re just the thing to bring some spirit to your next party. InternatIonally beloved jIggle of mystery that it is, gelatin has been wiggling its way into our hearts, imaginations and, ultimately, stomachs for ages. It’s the backbone of elaborate french desserts served to the likes of napoleon. It’s the jiggly half of the “jelly and ice cream” duo beloved by generations of british kids. It’s the most vital strand in the dna of gummy bears and Peeps, the unfortunate collaborator in the invention of aspic, and the reason canned ham makes that repulsive sound when removed from its tin. Clearly gelatin’s culinary alliances are countless. naturally, it was only a matter of time before an enterprising individual figured out how to render it an intoxicant. although the exact origins of the first incarnation of spiked

gelatin are hazy, most americans are well-versed in its most notorious modern incarnation — the infamous jell-o shot, a boozy interpretation of america’s most famous dessert often served in dixie cups in rather unsavory social situations. but if you build a better spirits-infused gelatin shot, the world will slurp a path to your door — just ask jelly shot architect michelle Palm. she’s the mastermind behind the popular blog jelly shot test Kitchen and author of the new cookbook “jelly shot test Kitchen: jell-ing Classic Cocktails — one drink at a time” (running Press, 204 pages, $17). Her glossy, beautifully photographed ode to bitesized gelatin cocktails, aka “jelly shots,” proves the frat-party staple can be as pretty and sophisticated as any craft cocktail.

➛

By Jen StevenSon • photography by ross william hamilton

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Palm’s behind-the-jellyshot tale began innocuously enough at a summer barbecue two years ago. scrambling for a creative contribution, the financial consultant concocted a homemade piña colada jelly shot, which proved such a hit that her friends urged her to expand her boozed-up gelatin repertoire. Palm obliged, creating a blog to catalog the increasingly sophisticated results. almost immediately, a publisher came calling, proving that 1) america’s appetite for a gelatin-based good time cannot be underestimated, and 2) blog-to-book dreams really do come true. Channeling black tie rather than black velvet, Palm’s creations are served like fancy canapés — bite-sized cubes, pyramids and cones adorned with delicate strands of citrus zest, cradled in soup spoons and sprinkled with alluring accoutrements that run the gamut from fresh berries to edible gold leaf. Party-worthy as well as party-practical, the finished products are elegant, and can only be described as “not your college frat boy’s jelly shot.” Curious to see what our finest local bartenders could do with a few packets of gelatin, we asked mixologists jacob grier of metrovino and tommy Klus of Kask to develop jelly shots of their own. both took inspiration from beloved classic cocktails like the Pisco sour and dark and stormy, creating definitively boozy bites with a fresh lime tang. With the holidays in full swing, it’s the perfect time to trot out your newfound jelly shot wizardry for the admiring, and undoubtedly grateful, masses. “the holidays are a natural for the jelly shot creative process,” Palm says. “but anytime people gather is a natural opportunity for a little jiggly cocktail fun.”

Bailey’s and Coffee jelly shots Makes 18 to 24 jelly shots

delicious, decadent and dessert-y, these jelly shots are lovely when prepared in two simple layers. for more dramatic presentation, you can use the embedded shapes method, cutting the bailey’s layer into small rectangles or circles and placing them into the coffee layer. Coffee layer: 1 cup brewed strong coffee or espresso 2 envelopes Knox gelatin 1 cup Kahlúa coffee liqueur Bailey’s layer: ½ cup water 2 envelopes Knox gelatin 1½ cups bailey’s Irish Cream liqueur orange zest for garnish

To make the coffee layer: Pour the coffee into a medium saucepan and sprinkle with the gelatin. allow the gelatin to soak for a minute or two. Heat over very low heat until gelatin is dissolved, about 5 minutes. remove from heat and add the Kahlúa, stirring well to blend. Pour mixture into an 8-by-4-inch loaf pan. refrigerate until set, at least 1 hour. To make the Bailey’s layer: Pour the water into a medium saucepan and sprinkle with the gelatin. allow the gelatin to soak for a minute or two. Heat over very low heat until gelatin is dissolved, about 5 minutes. (mixture will initially be very thick.) remove from heat and strain through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any lumps. stir bailey’s into the strained mixture, mixing carefully and thoroughly to blend the liqueur. allow to cool slightly. remove the chilled coffee layer from the refrigerator. ladle bailey’s mixture carefully onto the set coffee layer in pan. return pan to the refrigerator and chill until fully set, several hours or overnight. To serve: When ready to serve, run a knife around the edges and flip the pan over onto a flat surface to release the gelatin from the mold. Cut into desired shapes and garnish with grated orange zest. Embedded Shapes Method: make the bailey’s layer first, pouring it into a loaf pan or other appropriate pan (the depth of the mixture should be no more than ½ inch). Quick-set the mixture by placing it in the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes, until firm. While it sets, make the coffee layer and allow to cool (but not set). remove bailey’s layer from the freezer and cut into desired shapes. transfer shapes to a plate or cutting board and chill for 5 to 10 minutes. Carefully add the shapes to the coffee layer. refrigerate until set, ideally overnight to avoid separation when cut. — Adapted from “Jelly Shot Test Kitchen” by Michelle Palm (Running Press, $17)

negroni jelly shots Makes 18 to 24 jelly shots

Pleasantly bitter, ruby red and braced with gin, the negroni cocktail is no shrinking wallflower. the same can be said for this gorgeous jelly shot. 1 cup water 1 (1-by-2-inch) strip of orange zest, plus grated orange zest for garnish 2 envelopes Knox gelatin ⁄3 cup Campari

1

⁄3 cup sweet Italian red vermouth

1

⁄3 cup gin (preferably Hendrick’s)

1

Combine the water and orange zest in a medium saucepan and sprinkle with the gelatin. allow the gelatin to soak for a minute or two. Heat over low heat until the gelatin has dissolved, about 5 minutes. remove from the heat and discard the orange zest. stir in the Campari, vermouth and gin. Pour the mixture into an 8-by-4-inch loaf pan and chill until fully set, several hours or overnight. When ready to serve, run a knife around the edges and flip the pan over onto a flat surface to release the gelatin from the mold. Cut into desired shapes, and garnish with grated orange zest.

GORGEOUS GARNISHES In her book, Palm details a variety of jelly shot “special effects,” including layers, embedded shapes, bubbles, skewering and checkerboards, some of which are detailed in these recipes. but the simplest way to gild the jelly-shot lily is to add a pinch of garnish on top — try citrus zest, edible gold leaf, chocolate shavings, crushed nuts, shredded coconut or colored sparkling sugar.

VEGANIZE Produced from the collagen found in the skin and bones of animals, gelatin is on the vegetarian/vegan no-no list. but agar-agar powder — a derivative of red algae — is a perfectly suitable substitute. Palm recommends substituting ½ teaspoon agar-agar for each packet of Knox gelatin, ensuring that ingredients are at room temperature and making sure the agar-agar is fully dissolved before letting the jelly shots set.

— From “Jelly Shot Test Kitchen” by Michelle Palm (Running Press, $17)

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SOME TIpS TO MAkE THINGS GEl michelle Palm’s 68 recipes — a mix of classics and contemporary sippers — are ranked “easy,” “intermediate” or “advanced,” and she administers an initial test to those preparing to take the jelly shot plunge. bottom line: If you can operate a stove, a cookie cutter and a kitchen timer, you’re a shoo-in even for the advanced shots. still, here are a few basic tips to help you master this tremulous art form:

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Use nonreactive metal or ceramic baking pans to set your jelly shots — but feel free to experiment with sizes, shapes and depths. generally, shorter jelly shots are easier to work with.

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shape jelly shots with cookie cutters, or set them in silicone baking molds, ice trays or candy molds. you can find an excellent selection of affordable silicone molds at bakedeco. com, in the Chocolate supplies section, or locally at the decorette shop (decoretteshop.com).

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If you use a mold, coat it with nonstick cooking spray or wipe lightly with vegetable oil for no-fuss jelly shot removal.

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It’s best to make the jelly shots the night before or the morning of the event. but don’t cut and plate them until an hour or less before serving. to help preserve jelly shots’ shape as long as possible, chill the platter before serving.

 ONLINE EXTRA: Get

the recipe for Tommy Klus' lemony, sweet, apple-brandy-spiked Prospector Jelly Shot at mIXPdX.cOm

pisco sour jelly shot Makes 18 to 24 shots

since jelly shots can’t replicate the frothiness of a traditional Pisco sour, bartender jacob grier tops each with a dollop of bitters-spiked whipped cream. Jelly: 1¼ cups cold water ½ cup granulated sugar 3 packets powdered gelatin 1 cup pisco (Campo de encanto recommended) ⁄3 cup fresh strained lime juice

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Bitters whipped cream: 1 cup whipping cream 1 tablespoon granulated sugar ¾ ounce amargo Chuncho or angostura bitters lime zest for garnish (optional)

To make the jelly: Combine water and sugar in a medium saucepan. sprinkle with the gelatin. allow the gelatin to soak for a minute or two. Heat over low heat until the gelatin has dissolved, about 5 minutes. remove from the heat and stir in the pisco and lime juice. Pour the mixture into lightly oiled molds or an 8-by-4inch loaf pan and chill until fully set, several hours or overnight. To make the bitters whipped cream: Combine cream, sugar and bitters in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip until stiff peaks form. To serve: run a knife around the edges of molds or loaf pan and flip the pan over onto a flat surface to release the gelatin. If using a loaf pan, cut into desired shapes. top with bitters whipped cream and garnish with a thin strip of lime zest, if desired. – Jacob Grier, Metrovino, Portland

French 75 jelly shot

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Makes 18 to 24 shots

Champagne, cognac, lemon and sugar add up to one of the loveliest and simplest cocktails ever made, and the flavor of the original drink translates perfectly into bitesized jellies. there is some discussion in bartending circles over whether the correct base spirit is gin or cognac — we prefer the cognac version. If you want the jellies to look effervescent, follow the bubbles method below. ⁄3 cup lemon syrup (recipe follows) 2

2 ⁄3 cup Champagne, Prosecco or other sparkling wine

2 envelopes Knox gelatin ⁄3 cup cognac

2

lemon zest for garnish (optional)

Combine lemon syrup and Champagne in a medium saucepan and sprinkle with the gelatin. allow the gelatin to soak for a minute or two. Heat over very low heat, stirring constantly, until gelatin is fully dissolved, about 5 minutes. (Use very low heat to avoid overheating the alcohol.) remove from heat and stir in the cognac. Pour mixture into an 8-by-4-inch loaf pan and chill until fully set, several hours or overnight. (If you want the jelly to have tiny bubbles, reminiscent of Champagne, follow the instructions for the bubbles method below.) When ready to serve, run a knife around the edges and flip the pan over onto a flat surface to release the gelatin from the mold. Cut into desired shapes and garnish with lemon zest, if desired. Bubbles Method: Prepare gelatin mixture per instructions. set aside half of the gelatin mixture. Pour the other half into the desired pan and quick-set by placing it in the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes. Check the mixture often to avoid freezing. When set, rake the mixture with a fork until small, uniform globules form. distribute the raked gelatin evenly in the pan. Pour the reserved gelatin over the raked, set gelatin. Chill until fully set, several hours or overnight.

lemon Syrup Makes about 1½ cups

1½ cups water 1 cup granulated sugar 4 medium lemons, each cut into 8 wedges Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan. muddle the lemon wedges. bring to a rolling boil over medium heat. reduce heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. remove from the heat and strain immediately. allow the syrup to cool to room temperature. Shortcut: a 50-50 mix of frozen lemonade concentrate and water may be substituted for the lemon syrup. be sure to strain it to remove any lemon pulp. — From “Jelly Shot Test Kitchen” by Michelle Palm (Running Press, $17)

Bootstrap Buck jelly shot Makes 18 to 24 shots

the bold and bracing combination of dark rum, lime juice and ginger beer is not for the faint of heart. but anyone who loves the refreshing bite of a dark and stormy will love these jellies. ½ cup ginger beer (fentiman’s recommended) ½ cup fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger ½ cup packed brown sugar 2 packets gelatin 1 cup blackstrap rum (such as Cruzan) sparkling sugar mixed with minced lime zest for garnish In a medium saucepan, combine the ginger beer, lime juice, fresh ginger and brown sugar. sprinkle with the gelatin. allow the gelatin to soak for a minute or two. Heat over low heat until the gelatin has dissolved, about 5 minutes. remove from the heat and stir in the rum. strain the mixture to remove the bits of ginger and lime. Pour the mixture into lightly oiled molds or an 8-by-4inch loaf pan and chill until fully set, several hours or overnight. When ready to serve, run a knife around the edges of molds or loaf pan and flip the pan over onto a flat surface to release the gelatin. If using a loaf pan, cut into desired shapes. garnish each jelly shot with a sprinkle of the zest and sugar mixture. — Adapted from Tommy Klus, Kask, Portland

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Gifts good enough to eat Take a few old standbys, give them a subtle twist, and you have sophsticated treats truly worth sharing Recipes by KIR JENSEN / Photography by ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON

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t’s a sugar-spun world out there, flocked with marshmallows and paved with chocolate. At home, cooks have their ovens in overdrive, cranking out armies of gingerbread people and stirring up fudge until carpal tunnel takes hold. We’re not complaining, of course. We wouldn’t dare find fault with any homemade sweets during the holidays (because, really, a casserole just doesn’t have the same festive flair). Still, there’s no doubt that most of us could use a little more variety in our repertoire. So, this year, forget about the snickerdoodles and spritz. Leave the peppermint extract on the shelf. We’ve got five recipes for delicious treats that offer the gift of the slightly unexpected. Consider a stalwart like spiced pumpkin bread. It’s fragrant and delicious on its own, but so much better when flecked with tiny pockets of melted toffee and chocolate. Buttery bar cookies with a ribbon of jam are always a crowd-pleaser. But instead of the usual sweet fillings, like raspberry or apricot, how about balancing the richness with the bracing bitterness of honey-grapefruit marmalade? Simple shortbread cookies, which are a snap to make and keep for days, get a surprise crunch from cornmeal and cocoa nibs. Chocolate-port sauce, made with cocoa powder instead of melted chocolate, attains a silky lightness while retaining its depth of flavor. There’s nothing too wild and wacky, because even thrill-seeking palates like ours find comfort and joy in the familiar and traditional this time of year. But each recipe proves that it takes only a subtle shift in ingredients to breathe new life into an old standby.

Chocolate Port-Wine Hot Fudge Sauce Makes about 2¼ cups

Some chocolate sauces are simply truffles in disguise. As delicious as that sounds, the reality is they’re often overwhelming and gloppy. Not so this sauce, which is rich without being heavy, and gets a boozy kick from tawny port wine. It’s heaven drizzled on ice cream or poached pears, and makes a quick and easy last-minute gift you can be proud of. ¾ cup packed dark brown sugar 1 teaspoon sea salt ¾ cup sifted cocoa powder 2 cups heavy cream 1 cup light corn syrup 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract ⁄3 cup tawny port wine, or to taste

1

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter ½ cup chopped bittersweet chocolate or dark chocolate chips

In a small saucepan, combine the dark brown sugar, salt and cocoa powder. Stir in enough heavy cream, a little at a time, to make a paste, and then stir in the rest, along with the corn syrup. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, making sure to whisk continuously. Reduce the heat to a simmer, add the vanilla extract and port, and continue to cook, while whisking, for another 3 to 4 minutes to help thicken the sauce. The sauce will be very glossy and take on a very dark hue (almost black). To test if the sauce is thick enough, place a small dab of sauce on a clean plate and let stand for 1 minute. If the sauce spreads, keep simmering. The sauce should stay in place when you tip the plate. Remove from heat and stir in the butter and chocolate. Stir until smooth. The sauce will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. To reheat: Microwave at 50 percent power for about 30 seconds, or warm in a saucepan on low heat. — Kir Jensen, The Sugar Cube, Portland

Spiced Pumpkin-Toffee Bread Makes 1 loaf

Super moist and deliciously spiced, this pumpkin bread is flecked with tiny pockets of melted toffee for a caramel note that pairs deliciously with the pumpkin. Bits of semisweet or bittersweet chocolate add just the right counterpoint of texture and flavor. ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup packed dark brown sugar 1 egg 1 egg yolk ½ cup vegetable oil ¾ cup pumpkin purée (Jensen prefers Libby’s) ⁄3 cup sour cream

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1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 1 cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup almond meal or almond flour ½ teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom ¾ teaspoon baking soda ¾ cup Heath toffee bits ½ cup semisweet or bittersweet chocolate chips Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour an 8½-by-4½-inch loaf pan. Line the bottom and two longer sides with a piece of parchment paper, letting it hang over the edges to make it easier to lift out the loaf. In a medium bowl, whisk together the granulated sugar, brown sugar, egg, egg yolk, vegetable oil, pumpkin purée, sour cream, vanilla extract and fresh ginger. In a separate bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, almond flour, sea salt, nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom and baking soda. Stir the flour mixture into the pumpkin mixture until fully combined. Fold in the toffee bits and chocolate chips. Pour batter into the prepared pan. Bake on the middle rack for 45 to 55 minutes, or until golden brown and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow to cool on a wire rack before removing from the pan. — Kir Jensen, The Sugar Cube, Portland

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Cardamom Shortbread Bars With Honey-Grapefruit Marmalade Makes about 3 dozen

Holiday cookies are usually tooth-achingly sweet, but these buttery beauties have a ribbon of tart, bittersweet marmalade that’s a knockout with the cardamom shortbread. It’s an addictive combination, very adult, and perfect with steaming mugs of tea. This recipe makes a nice big batch, so you’ll have plenty to give away and to keep on hand for visitors. You can make the marmalade and dough well in advance, and even the baked cookies freeze beautifully right in the pan. Just cut what you need and pop the rest back in the freezer. Don’t forget you can use a biscuit cutter or cookie cutter to cut the cookies into fun shapes; save the scraps to crumble over ice cream.

Honey-grapefruit marmalade: 7 small to medium-sized ruby red grapefruits (about 4½ pounds) Zest of 1 large lemon Juice of 1 large lemon ¼ cup flavorful honey (such as wildflower) 1 cup granulated sugar Heavy pinch sea salt 1 vanilla bean Shortbread: 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons ground cardamom 1 teaspoon sea salt 2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened at room temperature 2 cups granulated sugar 4 large egg yolks Powdered sugar, for dusting

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To make the marmalade: Grate the zest from one of the grapefruit and place in a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Cut the top and bottom off the grapefruit to expose the flesh. Starting at the top of the fruit, cut downward following the contours of the fruit to remove the peel and white pith. (The pith is extremely bitter, so it’s important to remove as much as possible.) Working over the pot to catch the juices, cut between the membranes to release the segments and allow them to drop into the pot. Squeeze the membranes to release any remaining juices before discarding. Repeat with the remaining grapefruit, skipping the zest step. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, honey, sugar and salt. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise

and scrape out the seeds with the back of a knife. Add to the pot along with the pod. Set the pot over medium-high heat and bring mixture to a boil. Continue boiling for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 35 to 45 minutes, until the marmalade has thickened and reduced by three-quarters. It should take on a lovely reddishorange hue, similar to the color of poached quince. To test if the marmalade is ready, place a small spoonful on a chilled dish and let sit for several minutes. Tilt the dish; if the marmalade is runny, continue cooking it. When it’s ready, remove from heat and allow to cool completely before using. You should have 2 cups. (The marmalade can be made well in advance; it keeps for weeks in the refrigerator.)

To make the shortbread: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, cardamom and salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the yolks, one at a time, beating after each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. With the mixer on low speed, add the dry ingredients and mix just until combined. Divide the dough into 2 equal portions and shape each into a log. Wrap both in plastic wrap and freeze until very hard, at least 2 hours. To assemble the bars: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line the bottom of a half-sheet pan (18 inches by 13 inches) with parchment paper. Use a box grater to quickly grate one log of the dough evenly over the sheet pan (do not press it in). Arrange dollops of the marmalade evenly over the dough and spread to create an even layer, leaving a ¼-inch border on all four sides. (You’re not going for a thick layer of marmalade, but you shouldn’t have bare patches, either.) Grate the other log of dough evenly on top (again, don’t press). Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the top is golden brown. Let cool in the pan on a wire rack. When cool, cut into 3-by-2-inch bars and dust with powdered sugar. The cookies will keep in an airtight container for up to 1 week, or freeze for up to 6 months. Tip: You can grate the dough using the grating disk on a food processor (cut the logs lengthwise into quarters first), but make sure the bowl is really big, so the grated dough doesn’t get packed together. The shreds need to stay light and fluffy, so you can evenly distribute them. — Kir Jensen, The Sugar Cube, Portland

Nibby Shortbread Cookies Makes about 5 dozen

When chocolate chips are just too, well, chocolaty, turn to cacao nibs. In these lightly citrusy cookies, nibs add roastytoasty flavor that whispers, rather than shouts, of chocolate, so the flavor of the shortbread comes through. And their crackly-crunchy texture keeps the decadent squares from feeling too rich. Both the dough and the baked cookies freeze beautifully. 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour ¼ cup finely ground cornmeal ½ teaspoon sea salt 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature ½ cup plus 1 heaping tablespoon granulated sugar 1 heaping tablespoon grated tangerine or orange zest (from about 1½ to 2 tangerines)

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal and salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar together on medium-high speed until incorporated but not fluffy, about 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Beat in the zest and nibs. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating just until incorporated. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. With the mixer on low speed, add the flour mixture and mix just until combined. Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Gather it into a ball, and divide the ball in half. With floured hands, shape each half into a 12-inch-long log, pressing the sides against the work surface to flatten them so that the cookies will end up square. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap or waxed paper and twist the ends.

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon cacao nibs 2 large egg yolks, at room temperature ¼ cup superfine sugar, for coating

ONLINE ExTra:

Get a recipe for easy Hazelnut and Cranberry Brittle at mixpdx.Com

Refrigerate for several hours, or until completely firm. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper or Silpats. Put the superfine sugar in a small bowl. Cut the log crosswise into 1⁄3 -inch to ½-inch-thick slices. Toss each slice in the sugar to coat. Place the cookies at least 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheets. Bake until the edges are lightly golden, about 15 to 17 minutes, rotating pans from front to back and between upper and lower racks halfway through. Let the cookies cool for a minute on the baking sheets before transferring them to a wire rack to cool completely. They will keep in an airtight container for at least a week. — Kir Jensen, The Sugar Cube, Portland £

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Bu rn sid e

Dine in Nob Hill W

NW 24th Ave

NW

d er R tov s e W

Nu

2 3

7

W Burnside

NW Quimby St

NW Pettygrove St

NW Overton St

NW Marshall St

1

NW 21st Ave

Wildwood Restaurant & Bar

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Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30 Dinner: Nightly, 5:30-close Happy Hour: Mon- Fri, 4:30-6:30 Private Dining Rooms also available. Guest Parking lot on Overton St. 1221 NW 21st Avenue Portland OR 503.248.9663 www.wildwoodrestaurant.com

Limo Peruvian Restaurant, located in the heart of the NW, offers a menu featuring Northwest Peruvian coastal cuisine with a touch of a sophisticated ambiance.

Serving Lunch and Dinner 7 days a week

Join us for Happy Hour! Tue-Sat 4pm-6pm, Sun. 3pm-6pm

701 NW 23rd Avenue Portland OR 503.232.9440 www.papahaydn.com

5

Urban Fondue This renowned steakhouse has been at its original location at West Burnside for 3 generations.

Serving a unique dining experience featuring scratch recipe fondues made with local ingredients. Open 7 nights a week 2114 NW Glisan Street (next to Bartini) Portland, OR Reservations: 503-242-1400 or www.urbanfondue.com

Nob Hill Marketplace

Serving cuisine from Italy, France and the greater Mediterranean region. Featuring a full bar and Wine Spectator award-winning wine list. Private dining rooms available.

Now Hosting Happy Hour 3pm-6pm Monday - Friday

6

4

Serratto

Fine Dining, Catering, Wine, and Wedding Cakes.

340 NW Westover Road Portland OR 503.477.8348 www.limorestaurant.com

Ringside Steakhouse

3

Papa Haydn

Limo Peruvian Restaurant

Cooking from the source in since 1994.

2165 W Burnside Street Portland, OR 503.223.1513 www.ringsidesteakhouse.com

NW Lovejoy St

4

1

Ringside has earned a national reputation serving the best steaks in town with impeccable service and an unmatched wine list, all in a timeless, old-school atmosphere.

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Parking lot on NW Johnson St. Lunch, Dinner & Happy Hour Seven days a week. 2112 NW Kearney Street Portland, OR 503.221.1195 www.serratto.com 7

Dorio Cafe & Taverna Authentic Greek food. On the street car line. Lunch, dinner, full bar and carry-out. Happy Hour Mon-Sat 3pm-6pm 1037 NW 23rd Avenue #200 Portland, OR 503.219.0633 www.dorionw.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Lindsay Grant at 503.221.8352 or lgrant.oregonian.com

m

good cheese [ Marinated Chèvres: Homemade gifts in a twist of the wrist ] by SaSha DaVIeS

any of us food-lovers enjoy sharing food with others as much as — if not more than — eating it, and the holidays certainly provide ample opportunity to do just that. When we’re not having people over for dinner, we’re delivering homemade treats all tied up with a bow. When it comes to culinary DIy gifts, there is no shortage of ideas, but the trouble — at least for me — is that I can be overly ambitious. Instead of enjoying time with friends and loved ones, I end up sweating and cursing over my stove, alone in my kitchen. there are advance planners out there who have no idea what I’m talking about, but for those of you like me, I’ve got a solution: jars of marinated chèvre. as a project this has everything going for it. they’re quick to assemble and don’t require an investment in new equipment or obscure ingredients. and the soft, fresh goat cheese goes with almost anything, so you can get really creative with flavorings. the jars are also switch hitters — making wonderful hostess gifts that can be served at the party or tucked away for the host to enjoy later, and you can pull them out as an appetizer-in-a-pinch in your own kitchen. For an extra-special touch, attach a small tag to each jar with ideas for using it. the cheese, oil and seasonings are all wonderful additions to salads (both green- and grain-based), quiche or frittata, and as a dressing for winter vegetables destined to roast in the oven. If you want to delight your favorite locavore or share home-state pride with outof-towners, source all the ingredients right from our backyard (see the accompanying list for resources). With so much good food produced here in oregon, there’s no limit to the combinations you can come up with.

Tips

1. these recipes were crafted with an 8-ounce, wide-mouth canning jar in mind. but they can be made in any sealable container or even on a small platter, covered with plastic and tucked into the refrigerator for marinating. 2. the chèvre should be sliced into 1-ounce disks or rolled into ½-ounce balls. to make slicing easier, use a warm knife (be sure to clean it well before each cut) or use unflavored dental floss to slice through. If rolling the cheese into little balls, allow it to warm slightly before forming so it doesn’t crumble. 3. the simplicity of marinated chèvre allows the flavors of each component to shine, so be sure to use high-quality ingredients. Six local cheesemakers make chèvre (see list), and each is slightly differ-

ent. try to sample them beforehand if you can. Stick to good olive oil that you would be happy to use in homemade vinaigrette — ideally it should be a lighter oil so the marinade doesn’t overwhelm the cheese. 4. If you’re interested in playing with other combinations, make a single-slice test batch. try using walnut or hazelnut oils and branch out to other citrus fruits to provide balancing acid. If you have a sweet tooth you can make an easy, light dessert using plain chèvre, sprigs of savory herbs like rosemary, thyme, sage or lavender, plus roasted nuts and a drizzle of honey instead of oil. think deconstructed cheesecake and serve it with slightly sweet crackers or not-too-fussy cookies — british “digestive” biscuits or oaty hobnobs would be perfect. (this dish can’t be preserved because you would have to add so much honey to cover the ingredients it would overwhelm the cheese.) When completely covered in oil, the cheeses will keep in the refrigerator for about one month.

Chèvre marinated With beets and Capers makeS 8 ounCeS

extra-virgin olive oil 4 ounces chèvre, sliced or rolled into balls 4 ounces sliced pickled beets 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon sprigs or fennel fronds Pour a touch of olive oil into the jar, then layer the chèvre and beets, sprinkling capers intermittently. tuck in the sprigs or fronds along the sides and add enough olive oil to cover.

PhotograPhy by motoya nakamura

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Local ingredients to try:

Chèvre marinated With Walnuts, Cherries and oregano

Chèvre marinated with Pine nuts, thyme and orange

makeS 8 ounCeS

extra-virgin olive oil

makeS 8 ounCeS

extra-virgin olive oil 4 ounces chèvre, sliced or rolled into balls 2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts 1 tablespoon thinly sliced orange zest 4 sprigs fresh thyme

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Pour a touch of olive oil into the jar. Layer the chèvre with pine nuts and orange zest. tuck in the thyme sprigs along the sides and add enough olive oil to cover.

4 ounces chèvre, sliced or rolled into balls 2 tablespoons toasted walnuts 1 tablespoon dried cherries, sliced into strips 2 teaspoons five-peppercorn mix

Pour a touch of olive oil into the jar. Layer the chèvre with toasted walnuts, dried cherries and peppercorns. tuck in the oregano sprigs along the sides and add enough olive oil to cover.

4 sprigs fresh oregano

DECISIONS DECISIONS DECISIONS 1000 LIQUORS 500 BEERS 400 WINES 300 CIGARS

We couldn’t decide either, so we got it all.

Classic Styling

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Chèvre: briar rose Creamery, Fern’s edge, Fraga Farm, rivers edge, Juniper grove, Portland Creamery Olive oil: red ridge Farms Dried cherries: Country girl Fruit Nuts: Freddy guys hazelnuts Herbs: Clip from your garden or buy at farmers markets £

selects PX sherries [ What our sugar-plum dreams are made of ]

No matter what our religious persuasion, we at MiX say a little prayer of thanks to Peter this time of year. No, we’re not talking about the fisherman-turned-apostle who guards the Pearly Gates. We’re referring to another saintly type, one who gave his name to a grape in spain. that grape is called Pedro Ximenez. And while viticultural historians differ on who, exactly, this Pedro person was, we are most grateful for his namesake’s ability to bring warmth and sweetness to the coldest nights of winter. What are we talking about? Pedro Ximenez sherry, a sticky-sweet dessert wine with notes of caramel and toffee that’s perfect this time of year. imagine, if you will, southwestern spain’s Andalusian coast, where the palomino grape, planted in the chalky white “albariza” soil of Jerez de la Frontera, 45 makes the seafoam-y base wine for dry sherry. Give these wines some barrel age, and you’ve got the richer registers of the amontillado, palo cortado and oloroso sherries. But you don’t enter truly sweet sherry territory until you’ve got your hands on one made with Pedro Ximenez, or PX, grapes. laid out in the sun to raisin after harvest, PX releases a honey-like juice when pressed. it’s blended with oloroso to create cream sherry. And sometimes it’s aged and bottled on its own, mainly in the region of Montilla-Moriles, northeast of Jerez, near córdoba. here the intense sun brings the PX grape to even greater heights of ripeness, and PX becomes the main attraction rather than a blending

By katherine cole photography By thomas Boyd

selects / PX sherries coNt.

46

additive. the resulting wines are traditionally fermented in the same way they were back in st. peter’s day — in tinajas, or terra-cotta amphorae — and so the best of the pXs from montillamoriles are priced accordingly. Whether they were made in a solera system (that is, a blend of vintages of fortified wines), as sherry traditionally is, or more in keeping with a traditional dessert wine, our spectrum of montilla-moriles wines all had vintage dates on their labels. tasting them blind, we found them to be a more diverse and interesting group than the wines from Jerez, ranging in color from golden-amber to cola-brown. But we couldn’t beat good old Jerez de la Frontera for price.

panelists

HOW SWEET IT TASTES

container of kadota Fig sorbet with crumbled Fourme d’ambert (a historic French bleu cheese). divine. But while these ultra-rich wines make a statement alongside a final course, or simply on their own after dinner, they still have the acid backbone to go other places. panelist nicolas Quillé admitted, “i actually drink pX as an aperitif in the winter when it’s cold. it’s kind of like a spiced wine.” and, even though most are fortified, Quillé recommends keeping these wines refrigerated once open and finishing them within a week. By the time we had completed our tasting, we were humming about figgy pudding and harboring visions of sugar plums. We were wondering who on our holiday gift list might like to receive a pX, and how many bottles we should squirrel away for the long, cold month of January. the bottom line: if you see a sherry bottle marked “pX,” grab it. i swear by the soul of st. peter that these sweet, warming wines are all worth trying.

straight pX tastes like a molassesand-caramel cocktail. it’s one of the few wines on the planet that begs to be poured over ice cream or paired with milk chocolate. Which is why we didn’t feel that we could accurately gauge the effectiveness of pX as a dessert pairing without doing our due diligence and actually sipping this stuff alongside sweets. and so our tasting panel met in the comfy environs of paley’s place, where pastry chef kristen d. murray had whipped up a dizzying array of winterthemed delights. although pX makes an ample dessert when sipped on its own, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to try it alongside, oh, sticky date Brioche With milk chocolate-Bergamot anglaise, lemon-and-persimmon confiture and Fried medjool dates. then there was the Black pepper cheesecake With Banyuls-poached Fig “pillows,” graham cracker sable and honeyed apples; spanish duck egg Flan With Burnt orange caramel; squash-and-caramel coupe mousse With mascarpone mousse, squash chips and caramelized cocoa nibs; and spelt carrot cake with Fried sage, chestnut honey and double milk ice cream. the wines were so mouth-coating and rich that we imagined they would conflict with such intricate desserts, but in fact, the pairings weren’t half bad. still, “it’s hard to clean your palate between sips,” remarked kimberly paley, adding, “some of these wines would be good with a strong cheese, like a salty roquefort.” she was spot on (see “pairing pX and cheese”). to prove it, murray brought out a

Kimberly Paley, general manager and owner, paley’s place, paleysplace.net Kristen D. Murray, pastry chef, paley’s place, paleysplace.net Nicolas Quillé, winemaker and general manager, pacific rim, rieslingrules.com Grant Butler, critic-at-large, the oregonian & miX Katherine Cole, wine columnist, the oregonian & miX

THE WINNING WINES

NOTE: Many sherries are sold by the half-bottle (375 ml). When no bottle size is given, you can assume the wine is sold in a 750-ml bottle.

BArGAiN

Hartley & Gibson’s “Choice Old Solera PX Sherry” ($19) the excessively verbose front label on this bargain-priced, full-sized bottle reads like the ad copy for some 19thcentury healing tonic. But hey, it’s charming! and so is this “syrupy, unctuous, celebratory” pX, as grant Butler described it, before suggesting that one might like to “serve it with spice cake.” Quillé found notes of

deliciously sticky pX sherries are like a rich spice cake in a glass, redolent of toffee and caramel (though some of our tasters also found notes of — ahem — ashtray). Bottom line, you can skip dessert, even if it’s something as delectable as one of kristen d. murray’s creations.

 oNliNe eXtrA: Find out where to buy our favorite

PX sherries and get a recipe for sweet, crispy squash chips to go with them at MiXPDX.coM

molasses, licorice, tar, ashtray and chocolate in this unsubtle sipper. “this is a guy’s sherry,” he added. “it’s big.”

FiresiDe siPPer

Lustau “PX San Emilio” Solera Reserva Pedro Ximenez Sherry ($16 for 375 ml) We got lighter citrus, caramel, dried apricot, dried fig and floral notes from this wine; it made us think of an easy afternoon in front of the fire with, as murray so evocatively put it, a labrador retriever snoozing at our feet. murray liked the boysenberry jam, toasted almond and herbaceous notes in this “elegantly balanced” beauty, adding, “this is the only one i would make a sauce or reduction out of.” When we pulled the paper bag off, we found an old wine-shop favorite: the lustau label has always been a reliable source for sherry.

GiFt For the host or hostess

2008 Alvear “de añada” Montilla PX ($25 for 375 ml) this vintage, unfortified dessert wine is a gorgeous goldenamber color; we found it to be brisk and lively on the palate in comparison with the rest. We jotted down notes of caramel apple, toffee ice cream, marzipan, orange pekoe, chamomile, honeyed persimmon, candied tangerine and walnut. Quillé declared it “christmasy. serve it with panettone.” then we unveiled it and saw how lovely it looked. What a fitting gift to present to

a midwinter dinner host.

PAir With Dessert

Alvear “Solera 1927” Montilla-Moriles Pedro Ximenez ($27 for 375 ml) established in 1729, alvear is the most acclaimed producer in montilla-moriles. perhaps that’s why we unwittingly chose two of its wines as our favorites. although murray found it “pruney and one-dimensional,” its subtle floral character and spiced ripe plums worked well with our array of desserts, neither being overwhelmed nor overpowering.

GeeK’s DeliGht

1985 Toro Albalá “Don PX” Gran Reserva MontillaMoriles Pedro Ximenez ($33 for 375 ml) in the old days, big Jerez houses bought up all the pX in montilla-moriles for use in blending. in 1970, the historic bodega toro albalá changed all that when it decided to hold on to its high-quality pX, age it and sell it — without fortification — as a vintage dessert wine. the “don pX” gran reserva ages a minimum of 25 years before release. When we tasted it blind, this 1985 got our attention. We found notes of marmite, dirty cocoa nibs, cough syrup, rosemary, black cardamom, black olive-pit and (i loved this one from murray) “stumptown coffee-skin tea.” a truly unique wine, worth tasting.

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47

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pairing pX and cheese

roasted nuts, cooked fruit and caramel sweetness — these are the general characteristics of pX sherries, and they’re flavors that happen to go deliciously with cheese, too. the trick, as with any good wine and cheese pairing, is to find balance. since pX sherries are inherently sweet, a fantastic setup is a salty companion. sure, these wines are complex and sweet enough to enjoy on their own after a meal, but pairing pX sherry with cheese makes the final course that much more special. here are some great cheeses to try: Stinkier alpine cheeses: Bergkase, schlossberger, scharfe maxx or hoch ybrig Stronger blues: Valdeon, Bayley hazen, stilton or stichelton, or caveman Blue — Sasha Davies £

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Dec. 2, WildAire Cellers celebrates Christmas in Carlton! Bead Bazaar, spiced wine and goodies to pair. www.WildAireCellars.com Dec. 9, Mouvance Winery Sneak preview of 2010 wines with specialty food pairings. Holiday Special 10% OFF all wines! www.mouvancewinery.com Dec. 16, Alexana Winery Experience the flavor, texture and aroma created by the various soils in the wines of Alexana and Winderlea. AlexanaWinery.com, Winderlea.com Carlton, more flavor to savor than any small town in Oregon!

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Don’t miss Christmas in Carlton!

December 2-4 School Christmas Bazaar December 2 Bead Bazaar at WildAire Cellars December 3 Family Festivities including Santa, movie, Tree lighting, Carolers, Carriage rides and more December 3 WildAire Cellars/Zenas Winery Progressive Wine/Food pairing.

eat here / seaside

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[ The town’s wintry side reveals plenty of charm, solitude and deep-fried Twinkies ]

I

f you’ve ever dismissed Seaside as one of those crowded, touristy coastal towns you drive past on the way to destinations a bit less occupied, a visit during the winter might change your mind. The bustling candy shops and promenade are empty (though you can still find stores selling enough taffy to remove a mouthful of fillings). And without the hoards of vacationers, the city transforms into a quiet, charming village adorned with sparkling lights, sea mist and enough good eateries to fuel long storm-watching walks on the beach. Just an hour and a half from Portland, it’s a prime spot for a holiday getaway.

By Kyle O’Brien / PhOTOgrAPhy By rAndy l. rASmuSSen

eat here / seaside cont.

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Bagels by the Sea

The Buzz on Broadway Begin the day with a chewy, fresh bagel at Bagels by the Sea (210 S. holladay drive, 503-717-9145; bagelsbythesea.net), a midcentury bank building converted into a breakfast place and coffee shop. The 16 varieties of bagels are thick but not heavy, spread simply with cream cheese or filled with fluffy scrambled eggs, melted cheddar and a choice of ham, bacon or sausage. grab a coffee to go, stroll down to the promenade and walk off your carbs by the beach. if you’re in the mood for shopping, duck into one of the many shops along Broadway. This time of year they’re tourist-free, and you can find some incredible deals on gifts and tchotchkes like picture frames and ornaments. With the necanicum river passing right through downtown, you can walk along the river and zigzag your stroll over three

bridges. When you’ve worked up a hunger again, seafood would seem the obvious choice. instead, think mexican. The Stand (109 n. holladay drive, 503-738-6592; shopseaside.com/ ts/ts.html) is a nearly invisible taco spot with a drab interior, but the food is filling, cheap and more than

The Stand

flavorful enough to brighten up a winter day. Quesadillas are usually an item to pass on in other mexican joints, but here the fresh and fluffy house-made tortillas are crisped up properly and filled with perfectly seasoned and seared carne asada. get a half (it’s plenty big) and add a veggie tamale.

The moist-not-mushy masa is steamed in a corn husk and stuffed with chunks of mushrooms, peppers and zucchini, then topped with zingy house salsas. inexplicably, The Stand is closed on Saturdays and Sundays, so a good alternative is the Relief Pitcher Tavern (2795 roosevelt drive, on u.S. 101, 503-738-9801) at the south end of town. it’s a typical roadside tavern — pool tables, sports on TV and a mostly local clientele — but the burgers are among the best on the coast. ignore the fading beer posters and focus on a juicy, hand-formed patty accented by house-made mustards, including an addictive sweet-hot variety, plus a pile of hand-cut fries. if the burger hasn’t totally weighed you down like a holiday ham, head back to Broadway for a midafternoon sugar fix at The Buzz

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dundee’s Bar & grill on Broadway (406A Broadway, 503-717-8808; thebuzzcandy. com). it’s a candy megastore with buckets of nostalgic and novelty candies, chocolatedipped pretzels and cookies, and imported treats like english Cadbury bars. The

 mix TRavelS: From central Point to spain, see where we’ve been at mixPdx.com

adjoining ice cream shop, Beach Bites (406C Broadway, 503-717-8808) specializes in scoops, sundaes and deep-fried anything, including bacon-wrapped Twinkies (!) and Oreos, which taste a bit like a creamy, warm, chocolaty beignet. By this time, you’ll need a nap, but if you can muster the energy, take another walk after sunset. The main drag on Broadway exudes holiday cheer, with whimsical starfish on each light pole and an outdoor Christmas tree at downing Street near the Carousel mall, which features a light show that blinks along with holiday music. There’s a high concentration of colorful lighting in the downtown core that most coastal communities can’t boast, and the Art deco

51

eat here//sssssss cont. selects seaside cont.

Seaside Oceanfront inn & restaurant buildings, like the Funland Arcade, give it a days-gone-by charm. if you want to catch a football game and an appetizer, head to dundee’s Bar & Grill (414 Broadway, 503-738-7006, dundeesseaside.com), an amiable and spacious sports bar where you can share appetizers such as cheese bread, oyster shooters or a bucket of steamer clams as you take in the action. if you stay overnight, it doubles as a doughnut shop in the morning. Seaside isn’t exactly known for high-end dinner establishments, but if you’re looking for a special night out, the Seaside oceanfront inn & Restaurant (581 S. Prom, access and parking at 580 S. Beach drive, Seaside, 503-738-6403;

52

Open: Tuesday-Saturday 4pm to 9pm

“100 Best Restaurants” – The Oregonian, Diner 2011

(360) 210-7028 • www.hearthwashougal.com 1700 Main, Suite 110 • Washougal Town Square Just off Hwy 14 • Underground Parking

Bell Buoy

theseasideinn.com), known to locals as maggie’s on the Prom, offers a romantic and intimate atmosphere with a cozy fireplace and a view that overlooks the ocean. The seasonal northwest cuisine rivals the coast’s best restaurants. Sure bets include a beautifully nutty hazelnut-crusted halibut and crispy pan-fried oysters that let the briny mollusks speak for themselves. The wine list is stocked with plenty of Oregon and Washington labels. On your way home, make sure to stop by Bell Buoy (1800 S. roosevelt drive, (u.S. 101), 503-529-2722; bellbuoyofseaside.com), and pick up some fresh seafood and housesmoked salmon to remember your holiday trip to the coast.£

scene Our picks for what to eat where ReviewS

Bluehour Ringside Fish House big ten

Downtown dining HigH Five

Hands-on coffee

The festive and sparkling-fresh seafood platter at RingSide Fish House. p56 PHOTOGRAPH BY RAndY l. RASmuSSen

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Bluehour

scene

new Reviews Bluehour

PHOTOGRAPH BY RAndY l. RASmuSSen

ders of sliced octopus tentacles get pressed into a postmodern rectangle and topped with spicy slivers of cucumber, daikon radish and shiso. It’s as fun to look at as it is to eat. A salad of crusty, russet-colored roasted pork belly surrounded by pear slices and wild greens nods toward the holidays with the colors of a holly branch. Boyce’s pasta has earned early praise, and rightly so. Tagliatelle tossed in a light cream sauce with porcini mushrooms, parsley and parmesan is as delicate as the best in town, as is the gnocchi, with little puffs of dough sitting in rich lamb sugo. The farro risotto is a revelation, the fat grains of wheat slowly simmered in a vegetarian broth until they burst with flavor, then stirred through with buttery, earthy, wild chanterelle and porcini mushrooms. A scattering of brussels sprout leaves, sautÊed in brown butter with the mushrooms, lends a nutty flavor. It’s a taste of

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It’s easy to forget about Bluehour. The sleek restaurant, the jewel in restaurateur Bruce Carey’s minirestaurant empire, has lounged, glamorously, in its Pearl district space — owned by advertising behemoths Wieden+Kennedy — for more than a decade. It’s always been good, but in a city where diners flock to the new and hyped, Bluehour isn’t always mentioned when talk turns to Portland’s food renaissance. But that seems to be changing. In June, Carey tapped Thomas Boyce, the former chef de cuisine at Wolfgang Puck’s flagship Spago Beverly Hills, to replace longtime chef Kenny Giambalvo. Boyce, who moved to Portland in 2010 with his wife, James Beard Award-winning cookbook author and baker Kim, brings more than a decade of experience from Spago, one of the standard bearers for California cuisine. Over several visits, Boyce’s food, from impossibly light sashimi to deceptively simple pastas, has been superb. like Giambalvo, who announced he was leaving the restaurant in April, Boyce focuses on mediterranean flavors but, in a nod to Spago, folds in Asian accents as well. That’s most clear at the start, with delicacies like a hamachi crudo amuse — thin strips of raw fish flaked with matsutake mushroom shavings so good you’ll forget truffles. The most stunning appetizer is the octopus terrine. Tender cylin-

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Oregon’s forests, in the best possible way. And at $18, the most inexpensive option among entrees approaching $40. As one of Portland’s priciest restaurants, Bluehour is a place you expect understated ambience, sleek design and professional, ever-present servers, here dressed top-to-tail in white. It’s where you’re not surprised when a sommelier quietly appears to recommend a spot-on Bergstrom 2009 “Old Stonesâ€? Pinot noir. It’s also where you’ll feel disappointed at minor quibbles, like plates consistently landing at the wrong places. Obviously, for the 99 percent, a meal for four approaching $300 is almost a hanging offense. But it’s hard to hold a grudge when your rib-eye arrives deep pink from end to lightly charred end, or your salmon comes precisely medium rare on a bed of purĂŠed white onions with red-wine jus and bits of braised oxtail. Besides, this is a special-occasion restaurant, and

meant to be enjoyed as such. Just as memorable is the moist duck confit, balanced by a small scoop of huckleberries in their own syrup, and the lamb shoulder hiding a bed of lentils and raita, which subtly hints at the flavors of India. The desserts are just as effective. There’s a kaffir lime custard with coconut sherbet and an airy basil tuile, paired with a small pour of Venezuelan rum, inspiring visions of Caribbean skies. The peeled poached pear is also a dream construction, stuffed with almond-flavored chèvre crĂŠmeux piped into its empty middle, served on a swipe of red wine caramel with olive oil cake. For those who’ve written off Bluehour, Boyce, along with pastry chef Bryn Robson, is providing plenty of reasons to refresh your memory. — BY mICHAel RuSSell 250 N.W. 13th Ave., 503-226-3394; bluehouronline.com

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LAKE OSWEGO: Downtown

LAKE OSWEGO: Kruse Way area

C Ave

Exit 292-B

5

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Dyke has been creating custom gold and platinum jewelry since 1970. Along with a wide selection of Dyke’s custom jewelry, the showroom also features ďŹ ne quality designer jewelry from around the world. We hope your visit to our showroom will be one of the most satisfying jewelry experiences you will ever have. Hours: Tue-Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-4pm 27 “Aâ€? Avenue • 503.636.4025 www.vandenburghjewelers.com

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World Class Wines • Holiday baskets and gifts • Wine Tasting • Private parties • Wine by the glass • Special events • Rare wine – large formats Your Holiday wine destination 269 “Aâ€? Avenue 503.974.9841 www.worldclasswinesoregon.com

6

Horse Drawn Carriage Rides

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Holiday Market

December 3 & 4, Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 10am-3pm. West End Building, 4101 Kruse Way. Enjoy the charm of a traditional European Market as you shop for holiday treasures. The Market features holiday treats, crafts, entertainment, ornaments, greenery and gifts galore! At this indoor location, warmth and holiday cheer are assured.

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Lake Oswego Mom’s Club Holiday Faire

Thursday, December 8, 2:30-7:30pm. West End Building, 4101 Kruse Way. Join the LO Mom’s Club and Lake Oswego Parks & Recreation for the second annual Holiday Fair. Visit and take photos with Santa and Mrs. Claus, enjoy music and art, and decorate some cupcakes with the gnomes. For information, call 503-675-2549, or go to www.lakeoswegoparks.org

Holiday Houses of L.Oswego

December 16 - 25. At businesses throughout Lake Oswego. Local businesses will show their skills

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In addition to our fantastic holiday invitations, we offer a GREAT selection of Holiday cards! - boxed, personalized & photocards (as well as greeting cards, ribbon & wrap, cocktail napkins & fun gifts) 459 Second Street downtown Lake Oswego 503.697.4424 www.grandpapery.com www.facebook.com/grandpapery

4

Christmas Ship Parade

Foothills Park & along the river. Saturday, December 17, 6pm. Make plans to enjoy the sparkle of the colorful flotillas from the shores of the Willamette at beautiful Foothills Park. A warm fire guard in the shelter will guard you from the frigid winter temperatures. www.christmasships.org.

Lake Oswego Marketplace

Experience the senses of Thailand with Dang’s Thai Kitchen. We specialize in gourmet Thai Food prepared uniquely with a fusion twist. We serve the ďŹ nest in Thai Cuisine using only the freshest ingredients. Gift CertiďŹ cates Available Lunch and Dinner Open seven days a week 670 N. State Street, Lake Oswego 503.697.0779 5

by creating a one-of-a-kind gingerbread house to display in their store. Pick up a tour map at Parks & Recreation, or at participating businesses - visit all the homes and vote for your favorite. www.lakeoswegoparks.org 503-675-2549 8

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Lakewood Bay

Lake Oswego Area Holiday Calendar of Events Saturday, December 3 & 11, 12 noon - 4pm, Millennium Plaza Park. www.lakeoswegoparks.org

N State St

A Ave

Kruse Way

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B Ave 2nd St

217

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5th St

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Portland’s Only Olive Oil BarŽ Store! Taste before you buy! • Sample Extra Virgin Olive Oils, Aged Balsamics, and Nut Oils, all handbottled to order. • A unique selection of gourmet foods: balsamic sauces, pastas, stuffed olives, and more! • Start Stocking Up for the Holidays! GREAT gift ideas . . . from specialty oils and vinegars to luxurious health and beauty products made with Olive Oil! Come in and check them out . . . you can sample them before you buy! Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-4 438 1st Street • 503.675.6457 www.oilerie.com Find us on Facebook

To advertise in Marketplace contact Leah Davidson at 503.221.8300 or leahd@sales.oregonian.com

scene / new Reviews cont.

RingSide Fish House

The cold seafood platter dominates the table, setting out an ice-bound array of aquatic freshness and mouthtingling brininess. The shrimp are sizable, the oysters and mussels fat, the crawfish daring you to break through the shell, the crab salad bountiful with a bite of tarragon, the two-tone surf clams reminding you why people on other coasts eat clams raw. It’s enough to keep you nibbling and drinking for a while, and thinking how good it is that you don’t live in nebraska. The largest version, the Grand RingSide, is the size of a tidal pool and comes with a cold whole lobster, for $115. When House Speaker John Boehner ate at RingSide Fish House in October, his group ordered two. If you’ve forgotten to arrange for a PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAndY l. RASmuSSen

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RingSide Fish House campaign committee to cover your check, the small version is $25, and it’s enough to convey what’s admirable about the new nautical RingSide — high-quality protein that’s at its best when not much is done to it. This is, of course, also the appeal of the iconic original RingSide, the beef bastion that has lured Portlanders for decades. If there’s a complication, it’s that RingSide Fish House is more RingSide than Fish House. Quality is high, cook-

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ing is precise, and the service is the same polished, professional treatment dispensed at the original. But if you think that fish could often benefit from some more imagination and support than steak requires, there are times when the new RingSide could leave you floundering. But it could take a while, as you happily slurp down oysters and crab salad, for that concern to come up — and even then it could get drowned out by desserts capable of making

their own splash. even if some of the entrees end up in the shallows, you can have a fine meal at the RingSide Fish House. You might want to stay simple and, as the saying goes, just chill. In addition to the seafood platter — and the seven varieties of oysters offered individually — you could start with a lush opener of house-cured salmon, sizable slabs with a slightly sweet richness. On the same theme, a pool

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of forceful tuna tartare cubes gets intensified by tomato aioli and a quail egg, with a crunch of potato chips to set it off. It’s a potent combination, but the dish’s resort to chips to accompany the tuna underlines a shortcoming that also touches the salmon; in a city with artisanal ovens working overtime, the bread here seems pretty ordinary. That hardly affects two other endearing appetizers. A pile of crisp, skinny, truffle-inflected frites can be enriched with a burst of crabmeat, sweet against salty, cold against hot, pillowy against crunchy. lobster bisque, too often swamped in the northwest by tidal waves of clam chowder, is an outburst of creaminess punctuated by dabs of lobster meat. most of the entrees are deftly cooked hunks of fish that get minimal help from their surroundings. A gently pan-seared salmon fillet barely notices an orange reduction, and it picks up a curious twist from chunks of andouille sausage. Tuna with a thin sear on the edges rapidly turning to sashimi inside has become a cliché, but in most of its versions it gets more support, such as a wasabi cream, than it gets here. Sturgeon, also getting limited help, seemed slightly overcooked, tipping over the line toward chewy. Shellfish entrees are better, notably the seared dayboat scallops that let all their sweetness come through — although a “bouillabaisse” of chorizo and butter beans seems an odd base for such a delicate crustacean. Best is the lobster tail, which not only is vivid and lightly butterpoached, but also is set in two different intriguing sauces; you

might find yourself sneaking your salmon onto this plate. Admittedly, the $38 lobster tail is about the size of an overgrown shrimp. At least it leaves room for dessert. Spectacularly buttery madeleines, hovering at the point of deciding whether to be cookies or cakes, accompany roasted fruit — peach and pear have alternated lately — with a powerful punchline of cranberry-almond streusel. Chocolate mousse cake with plum sorbet has a deep cocoa density, and a lineup of three mouth-sized cupcakes — carrot, chocolate-peanut butter and coconut-lime — reminds you that the ideal dessert can manage to be both sophisticated and simple. This all runs into money. The average entree costs $25, with several over $30; filet mignon and lobster claws is $52, but if your wallet is at that level you should just get the Grand RingSide. As at the other RingSide restaurants, there is a serious wine list, as well as experimentation at the bar; a caramel-kissed bourbon cocktail could carry you happily and leisurely through the cured salmon. The RingSide Fish House sets out an appealing range of vibrantly fresh seafood offerings. In a city that has had a curious difficulty, considering its location, in opening and maintaining serious seafood restaurants, it’s a useful addition. If the menu could use another serving of imagination, maybe it just takes time to adapt from steak to sturgeon. — BY dAVId SARASOHn 838 S.W. Park Ave., 503-227-3900; ringsidefishhouse.com

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scene

BiG ten Downtown dining for the holidays

We come for the shopping and treelighting. For the festive twinkly lights and pictures with Santa. We come for the concerts and plays and window displays, and to give our visiting guests a night on the town. during the month of december, it seems like the entire population of the metro area converges on downtown Portland and at some point we all ask ourselves … where should we go to eat? When your feet are sore, or the play is about to start, it’s easy to succumb to mediocre chains just steps from the action, but we don’t believe in wasting a single meal on food that doesn’t make us happy. So we pounded the pavement for you, finding 10 great local places that are open both Saturday and Sunday (no easy task) and offer plenty of options, whether you’re looking to fuel up before a day of shopping or wind down after a show.

1) Zeus Cafe

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Think mcmenamins and food, and you’ll probably picture pub grub. But Zeus Cafe, the new restaurant in the Crystal Hotel, aims to broaden that perception. The day starts at 7 a.m. with dishes like wood-baked eggs with parmesan crème fraîche, truffle oil and toast, and ends with a late-night menu that runs into the wee hours, offering up mini waterbuffalo burgers on brioche buns, and fried chickpeas with smoked paprika. Clearly we’re not in tater tot land anymore. entrees can be inconsistent, but the plump mussels swimming in a broth stocked with Olympic Provisions chorizo are just fine. As are the crisp, wood-fired pizzas topped with, say, San marzano tomatoes, mozzarella and arugula. And if you’re hankering for a drink, Zeus Cafe has a legitimate bar program, with original cocktails that trend toward sweet (the Flossy mule, for example, adds lavender syrup to the vodka, lime and ginger beer in a traditional moscow mule). And the pink, bitters-infused spheres of ice are a sight to behold. — mICHAel RuSSell

303 S.W. 12th Ave., 503-384-2500; mcmenamins.com Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

2) Kenny & Zuke’s Delicatessen

Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner all day, Kenny & Zuke’s is there for you, whenever your pastrami crav-

Brasserie montmartre ing strikes. The bustling Jewish deli makes pretty much everything in house, from its applesauce and kugel to its bialys and rye bread. But it’s the wet-cured, slow-smoked, corianderand-pepper-spiced pastrami that has earned the deli national attention, and rightfully so. You can order it in a Benedict at breakfast, piled onto a burger or cheese fries at lunch and, of course, in the classic and stellar Reuben. Grilled and stacked with pastrami (or corned beef if you would rather), melty Swiss cheese, housepickled sauerkraut and homemade Russian dressing, it’s nothing short of sinful. Same goes for the behemoth, double-decker, multi-meat meshugaletta Sandwich. In fact, you might want to hit Kenny & Zuke’s when you are done with your day, because after eating sandwiches like these, the only thing you are going to want to do is take a well-deserved nap. — JennIFeR COSSeY

1038 S.W. Stark St., 503-222-3354; kennyandzukes.com Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Happy hour Monday-Friday.

3) violetta

nothing warms cold hands like a thick, hot burger dripping with special sauce. Billed as “slow food, fast,” Violetta serves up near-perfect burgers with a local twist (beef from Scio, bacon from Carlton, onions from Brooks … you get the idea), plus five kinds of hand-cut fries, including sweet potato and chili cheese. To wash it all down, there’s a solid selection of craft beers, shakes and small-batch sodas. But you don’t have to be in the mood for a gut-busting lunch or dinner to dine here. Stop by the cafe in director’s Park to warm up and refuel with soup or salad, or get your sugar buzz going

with a bag of fried-to-order beignets, hot apple pie from Random Order, and Holy Kakow hot chocolate. — HAnnA neuSCHWAndeR

Violetta in Director’s Park, 8 87 S.W. Taylor St., violettapdx.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

4) Mother’s bistro

In this Victorian dining room of a bistro, you can hang your hat and savor the best food your mother never had time to make — rich and creamy mac-and-cheese, fresh pear and huckleberry cobbler with the flakiest golden-brown crust — all made from scratch. The day begins with rib-sticking breakfast dishes like biscuits and gravy or wild salmon hash, followed by hearty lunch and dinner classics like savory pot roast made with local beef. Benny’s Chicken Sandwich is a lunchtime must — a full breast of juicy, free-range chicken smothered with spicy aioli and melted cheddar cheese topped with fresh avocado. Just looking for a little pick-me-up? Stop in to relax with a cup of frothy hot cocoa and a homemade cookie or slice of pie. mother would approve. — AmAndA eCKeRSOn 212 S.W. Stark St., 503-464-1122; mothersbistro.com Breakfast, lunch and dinner TuesdaySaturday, no dinner Sunday, closed Monday

5) the Original

When it first opened, the menu at this modern diner was riddled with ill-conceived gimmicks (like the doughnut hamburger). Thankfully the gimmickry is mostly gone, leaving downtown shoppers with a solid and crowd-pleasing place to grab a bite for breakfast, lunch or dinner. With its vinyl, ’50s-style booths and postmodern art mobiles, the

decor juxtaposes vintage and chic as the menu does savory and sweet. The upshot? There’s something for everyone — from adventurous eaters to picky kids. Original concoctions like pancakes drizzled in blueberry jam and peanut butter sauce or crunchy cornmeal-bacon waffles are just a few of the oddly delicious choices at breakfast. At lunch and dinner, juicy burgers with shallot aioli and hearty classics like chicken potpie take the spotlight. everything goes best with one of the homemade sodas (try the ginger-mint) and a savory serving of poutine: gravy-drenched french fries and cheese curds that are one of the best things to hit your belly after a spirited night on the town. Thankfully, they’re served until 4 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. — AmAndA eCKeRSOn 300 S.W. Sixth Ave., 503-546-2666; originaldinerant.com Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Happy hour Monday-Friday. Late night menu Friday-Saturday until 4 a.m.

6) brasserie Montmartre

A Francophile oasis, Brasserie montmartre offers a calming respite from the bustle of downtown. under the direction of chef Pascal Chureau, the lunch and dinner menu teems with well-executed French classics like gruyère-topped onion soup, croque monsieur and quiche. But there are a few surprises, too, like a croissant filled with rich lobster salad and avocado coulis, or crepes stuffed with braised pork belly, chèvre and arugula. On weekends, brunchgoers can choose from three different Benedicts, as well as Frenchy belly-fillers like duck confit hash. during the lengthy happy hour (from PHOTOGRAPH BY FRedRICK d. JOe

To drink there’s a great selection of mostly French wines, plus top-notch spirits, original and classic cocktails, and craft beers on draft — including a rotating tap from Cascade Brewing. — dAnIelle CenTOnI

626 S.W. Park Ave., 503-236-3036; brasserieportland.com Lunch, dinner, happy hour and latenight menu daily. Brunch on Saturday and Sunday.

7) Urban Farmer

urban Farmer 2-6 p.m. daily), as well as from 10 p.m. to midnight, prices drop on bar menu favorites like the golden, crispy frites — which come in five varieties, including foie gras-Szechuan pepper. A bowl of spicy moules frites falls from $12 to $8, oysters are $1.50 a pop. PHOTOGRAPHY BY dOuG BeGHTel

It’s an upscale restaurant in an upscale hotel (The nines), but that hotel is at the top of a department store (macy’s), so no one will look askance if you show up to this comfortable yet high-end steakhouse loaded down with shopping bags. Forget greasy mall food and take a break for real lunch here, where you’ll find dishes like rich grits with a poached egg, spiced shrimp and pulled pork, or a divine cheese steak with shaved sirloin and gruyère fondue. After a day of shopping, or before (or even after) heading to a show, hit happy hour (3-6 p.m. and after 10 p.m.) for filling $4 and $5 dishes like tender beef sliders,

Reubens, or mac-and-cheese with oil-cured tomatoes. dinner is much pricier, as you’d expect from a steakhouse, with about a dozen choices of steaks in various breeds and styles — grass-fed, pasture-raised, grainfinished, corn-fed, dry-aged … you get the picture. — dAnIelle CenTOnI 525 S.W. Morrison St. (on the eighth floor of The Nines hotel), 503-222-4900; urbanfarmerrestaurant.com Breakfast, lunch and dinner MondayFriday, brunch and dinner SaturdaySunday. Daily happy hour from 3-6 p.m. and 10 p.m.-close.

black pepper, topped with silky vanilla cream cheese frosting, is particularly hard to resist. But the patron saint of sweet doesn’t just do cake. Cinnamon rolls, sticky buns, butterscotch- and chocolate-loaded cookies (including one made with smoked flour), and even savory snacks like brioche buns stuffed with mustard, ham and cheese, mean there are plenty of reasons to stop in and take a load off in the bakery/cafe. Add an espresso drink from locally roasted Water Avenue Coffee and you’ll be properly fueled for any urban adventure. — JennIFeR COSSeY

Quick Pick-Me-Ups 8) Saint Cupcake galore

Saint Cupcake’s new location, just five blocks west of Pioneer Courthouse Square, is bright and light, furnished simply with red metal seats and reclaimed wooden bleachers. But it’s hard to appreciate the decor when all you can see are rows of gleaming, brightly colored cupcakes just begging to be eaten. The moist and rich carrot cake, with just the right amount of savory spice and a hint of

1138 S.W. Morrison St., 503-473-8760; saintcupcake.com 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Saturday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday.

9) Public Domain

Yes, there’s a Starbucks smack dab in the middle of Pioneer Courthouse Square, but when your caffeine level begins to dip, it’s well worth the one-block walk to Public domain instead. The coffee shop is owned and operated by one of Portland’s first roasters, Coffee Bean International,

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Natural Food Store

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scene cont. and it offers a serene, sleek place to get a good caffeinated kick in the pants. like a brewery dedicated to its craft and the craft of its comrades, Public domain usually has guest roasters “on tap,” such as the city’s own Oblique. But true coffee geeks will be happy to know they can specify the brewing method, too. In addition to the espresso machine and French press, there are four pour-over brewers to choose from: Hario V60, Chemex, Clever and Kone. For nibbling, there are beautiful pastries from nuvrei Bakery. Try the wheatless oatmeal and raisin bar. Part oatmeal cookie, part lunch, it’s soft and dense and easy to share with a buddy. Pull up a seat and decompress — there’s free Wi-Fi and wall-to-wall/floorto-ceiling windows to enjoy the scenery, lights and people of downtown. — JennIFeR COSSeY

603 S.W. Broadway, 503-243-6374; publicdomaincoffee.com 6 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Friday, 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Saturday-Sunday

10) Cacao

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Few things can make you more immediately alert — and happy — than a shot of thick, liquid chocolate. At Cacao you can get your 2.5-ounce or 7-ounce wakeup call in three gorgeous flavors: milk chocolate with cinnamon, dark chocolate and “Special Spicy” — dark chocolate with coconut milk, paprika, cayenne and ginger. Can’t choose? no problem, you can get a flight of all three. For those in a slightly less decadent mood, there’s Cacao’s regular hot chocolate (still among the richest in town) using 65 percent cacao or 72 percent cacao — your choice — as well as espresso drinks made with Caffe Vita coffee. If a mocha is too much, try the macchiato, a shot of espresso cut with an equal amount of dark hot chocolate. Sit down and connect your laptop (at the 13th Avenue location only) or continue your holiday shopping. The store has the best artisan chocolate bars and confections that Portland, and much of the world, has to offer. not sure what something tastes like? The staff can help you sample just about anything. Before you go, purchase a handful of the Bequet salted caramels at the counter. They make a great on-the-go pick me up — and stocking stuffer. — JennIFeR COSSeY

West End: 414 S.W. 13th Ave., 503-241-0656; cacaodrinkchocolate.com 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday At The Heathman: 712 S.W. Salmon St., 503-274-9510; cacaodrinkchocolate.com 9 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Sunday

HiGH Five

Hand-crafted coffee Five years ago, if a Portland cafe offered customers the option of French-pressed coffee, it was the mark of bean-savvy sophistication. But now nearly every cafe worth its salt has added a pour-over bar, too. This “slow coffee” method, in which each cup is made by hand, one at a time, is a bean freak’s dream. It extracts more flavor from the beans than electric drip-coffee makers, plus it relies on finesse, technique and an array of gear to geek out on, with names like AeroPress, V-60, Chemex and Clever. Though pour-over bars are no longer unique in Portland, the following cafes go the extra mile to prepare drip coffee with attention and love.

Red e Cafe

— HAnnA neuSCHWAndeR

1. Local design meets designer

coffee at Coava Coffee Roasters. The team at Coava is so devoted to pour over, they design and manufacture their own equipment for it (they are best known for the stainless steel Kone filter, a sustainable alternative to paper filters used with glass Chemex brewers). Coava serves exclusive single-origin coffees with a complex mélange of flavors, roasted in their wood-lined, industrial-chic, cafe-cum-design showroom. Coava’s award-winning baristas hand-prepare drip coffee exclusively using the Chemex/Kone combination, which delivers the coffee’s innate flavors with clarity and a medium-full body. 1300 S.E. Grand Ave., 503-894-8134, coava.myshopify.com

2. Practice makes perfect at Lau-

retta Jean’s/Cafe velo. Cafe Velo’s baristas have probably prepared more cups of pour-over than any other cafe in town — tens of thousands — at their bustling downtown farmers market cart. But you get the same stellar attention to detail at their tiny brick-and-mortar cafe downtown, which recently closed for a few weeks and reopened with a slightly different food focus. Instead of savory north African dishes alongside the coffees from Stumptown, Heart and Coava, the corner

shop now offers delicious pies and quiche from fellow farmers market veteran and pie master Kate mcmillen, who sells her wares under the moniker lauretta Jean’s Handmade Pies. It’s a dream combination: You get to choose between Hario V-60 pour over and French press, and among three or four pies to go with it. 600 S.W. Pine St., 503-224-9236

3.

Attention to detail at the Red e Cafe. Baristas at north Portland’s Red e cafe go into a visible state of “flow” when preparing Heart and Intelligentsia coffees by the cup. The dramatic cafe, with high ceilings, exposed brick and lots of reclaimed wood, is the perfect setting for a V-60 pour over made to exacting standards. Baristas begin by rinsing the paper filters to remove any papery taste, then bring the water to the right temperature to maximize sweetness, and pour in slow concentric circles to get a perfect extraction — not too bitter, not too watery, but rich and balanced. 1006 N. Killingsworth St., theredecafe.com

4. Order off the menu at Heart.

Heart takes by-hand coffee as seriously as any cafe in Portland, offering four presentations: siphon, AeroPress, Chemex and the relatively unknown “German coffee machine” (a beautiful high-rise

porcelain brewer similar to a French press). Trouble is, you won’t find any of these options on the menu at this gorgeous cafe. not to worry, as long as it’s not during the busiest rush, you can choose a house-roasted, single-origin coffee and whichever brewing method you like. Word of warning: The siphon is spendy at $6-$7 per cup, depending on the coffee. 2211 E. Burnside St., heartroasters.com

5. Poured over at water Avenue

Coffee. At WAC, next door to The American Barista and Coffee School and owned by matt milletto, the school’s director, the geekiest pour-over nerds in the city prep your choice of any house-roasted single origin beans to order. Service is quick and efficient even for “slow coffee.” (You can also grab a quickie cup to go made from large French Press pots.) Come in to the retrorustic cafe on a quiet midday afternoon and you might find baristas tinkering with temperature probes and calculating flow rates. They’ll be happy to share tips on getting the most out of making your own pourover at home. 1028 S.E. Water Ave., Suite 145, 503-808-7084, wateravenuecoffee.com

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