MIX Magazine February 2010 by Mix Magazine

Februaryy 2010 / Portland’s Magazine g of Food + Drink

Going to whiskey school Big dinner party in 450 sq.ft. Good eating on Killingsworth

WE’RE SERIOUS ABOUT WHAT WE EAT FEBRUARY 2010

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Chefs and their tasty tattoos /p46 Could you kill your own dinner? /p31 Five recipes for perfect pork /p41

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editor’s note Ouch, tattoo needles hurt! But I don’t mind putting up with some pain in order to celebrate the first issue of our fourth year of publication. Yes, when I realized we were on Volume 4, I thought we needed to mark it in a significant way, hence the tats on my hands. Thank goodness for Photoshop. And OK, so we haven’t really completed three full years of issues — Volume 1 started in September — but it’s still amazing

Want to be sure you get every issue of MIX? SubScribe! 10 issues, $19.95 Go to mixpdx.com or call 503-221-8240.

little better, tighter, more exciting, and so starting with this issue, you’ll see some real changes. First, take a look at Starters, our section full of smorgasbordy bits to sample and savor. We’ve also introduced a new wine section: One Dish/Three Wines (I was feeling literal-minded when I made up that title). Wine columnist Katherine Cole and recipe guru Matthew Card team up to create a dish that presents a food-pairing challenge, which we then submit to three wine experts for their suggestions on what to drink.

Martha Holmberg, editor marthaholmberg@news.oregonian.com

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to me that we’re already fourish years old. Someone asked, early on, whether there would be enough topics to cover or whether we’d run out of material. After all, it’s only Portland. Ha. We’ve hardly scratched the surface, which is why I’m also delighted to confirm the rumors that we’re now publishing 10 issues a year. That’s like a monthly schedule, only civilized … we need to take vacations, you know. As we evolve, we try to get a

I’m also loving our two big feature stories this issue — Tattooed With Food and the intense and moving story about killing and butchering a pig. To me, these pieces are emblematic of the Portland food sensibility — excellent, daring, ethical and personal.

217

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Feb2010 31 KNOW WHeRe

YOUR FOOD IS FROM Every farmer did it in the old days, but nowadays it takes a brave soul to actually slaughter the animal they’re going to eat. We meet one and go with him to the farm.

41 DeLICIOUS PORK

A special section with recipes for pork in all its glory (no need to slaughter your own, just go to a good butcher).

46 TATTOOeD

WITH FOOD Every picture tells a story, and that story better be pretty compelling when the picture is tattooed on your skin. We create a portrait gallery of Portland foodie types and their culinary body art.

55 IN eveRY ISSUe 12 STARTeRS Our new section, full of short shots and tasty bits. 18 WALKAbOUT You could wander down North Killingsworth forever and never run out of good things to eat.

23 MIXMASTeR Whisky Club, where knowledge is served up neat or on the rocks. 26 FRIDAY NIGHT DINNeR PARTY Blake Van Roekel warmed up her new studio apartment by jamming it with good food and many friends.

55 ONe DISH/ THRee WINeS Another new section, in which we show you that matchy-matchy is a good thing. 59 GOOD CHeeSe Mild and buttery Chubut has many stamps on its passport.

61 PUb CRAWL Upright Brewing Co. makes beer by the numbers. 63 eAT HeRe Sisters, Oregon, has become a delicious destination. 67 SCeNe What to eat where.

72 SHOP Contact info for people, places and things in this issue. ON THE COVER: Elisabeth Markham celebrates freshness with her radish tattoo. PHOTOGRAPH BY DANIEL WAKEFIELD PASLEY

MIXPDX.COM MIX is now 10 issues a year! It’s easy to subscribe online — go to MIXPDX.COM and click on “subscribe.” You can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixpdx.com, so get clicking and start eating.

contributors Oregon’s ONLY 1-stop source for: erin ergenbright (Page 46) is a co-founder of the Loggernaut Reading Series and the coauthor and co-illustrator of The Ex-Boyfriend Cookbook (HarperCollins) with Thisbe Nissen. She received her MFA from the University of Iowa’s Writers’ Workshop, and her writing has appeared in many anthologies, journals and magazines, including Alone in the Kitchen With an Eggplant: On Cooking for One and Dining Alone (Riverhead Books). Ergenbright has just completed a short-story collection, How Long Have You Been Lost?, and is teaching writing at Portland Community College.

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Camas davis was a magazine writer and editor in New York and Portland for a decade before she decided to switch gears and work with meat. Levi Cole (Page 31) was one of several people who inspired her to learn the art of butchery. After an introduction to Cole by Robert Reynolds, a local cooking teacher and chef, Davis began attending Cole’s pig kills and pig roasts, which he does every year for his birthday. She began to seriously study butchery last summer, working alongside a family of pig farmers and butchers in southwest France (to read about her adventures, go to www. ladebrouillard.com). This year, she plans to launch the Portland Meat Collective, which will offer Portland carnivores a resource for buying meat directly from farmers, and, for those interested in emulating Cole, a hands-on education in home butchery.

OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Melissa Bearns, Karen BrooKs, Grant Butler, Katherine Cole, Caroline CuMMins, John Foyston, ashley Gartland, teri GelBer, taMi Parr, BlaKe Van roeKel

OTHER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

douG BeGhtel, MiKe daVis, JaMie FranCis, ross WilliaM haMilton, torsten KJellstrand, Brian lee, aBBy Metty, Motoya naKaMura, susan seuBert

Beth nakamura (Page 31): “There’s a photograph, just a snapshot really, that has always resonated with me. It’s an old black-and-white photograph of Margaret Mead standing among a group of Samoans. The Samoans look very much the role of indigenous people, lots of feathers and naked body parts. And Mead looks slightly ridiculous in her role as observer/anthropologist. It’s a funny little scene, and it is for me a reminder of that outsider that exists in all of us to some degree. Shooting this pig slaughter, I definitely had my Margaret Mead cap on. The fun was in playing with the idea of observing something that was bigger than all of the little particulars. It felt primordial and vaguely creepy, but it had beauty as well. I know it’s hard to reconcile those ideas, but somehow I was able to that day.”

Never at a loss for ideas for cooking pork, Matthew Card developed five beautiful recipes (Page 41) to complement this issue’s article on the pig slaughter. But he’s an equal-opportunity cook, so he paid tribute to seafood with his recipe for scallop “lasagna” in our new wine-and-food pairing column by Katherine Cole (Page 55). A contributing editor for Cook’s Illustrated, Card is a frequent writer and developer for MIX.

Pabst cans, radishes and knives. Beets, lots and lots of beets. Sturgeon. Meat grinders and steaks branded Texas. Dungeness crabs, clams and a mermaid. Eggs and chickens, too. And Candyland. All covering the arms and chests and backs and legs of some of Portland’s finest food industry workers (Page 46). Photographer daniel Wakefield Pasley: “It was the same every time. They’d push a sleeve or cuff back and point to a tattoo and look up at us and start talking. Some of the work was amazing, and invariably the story was wonderful. Even if that tattoo in question was, ah … unique.”

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“Are we doing it right? I don’t care.”

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A sculpted boy robot shimmers with cool

“Are they real? Can they love? Where does the machine end and heart begin?” Yes, every Valentine’s Day we wonder this about boys, too. But artist Scott Foster was thinking boy robots as he chipped away at one of his original molds for Alma Chocolate, a little shop of quirky art, forward chocolates and edible gilded icons arranged on the shelves of an ancient armoire. And who wouldn’t trust a guy to muse about guys, especially when he’s sporting a porkpie hat and chipped fingernail polish? Scott, a character sculptor at Laika animation studio, has been making original chocolate molds for standout chocolatier Sarah Hart since Alma opened four years ago. Their palm-sized Robot Love — handcrafted from 72 percent Valrhona chocolate and intricately detailed down to two-toned metallic sheen — debuted last year as a short-lived special. It’s back again this February … and the “love” portion of the title could simply apply to the labor. Each mold takes eight hours, and the chocolate process unfolds over three days of tempering, pouring, vibrating, shocking, spraying, dusting, buffing and nerve-racking

— Wille Yli-Luoma, Heart Coffee and Roasting p14

“I’d feel sad if I had to open plastic bags to get my meat products.” — Elias Cairo, Olympic Provisions p16

eat this now [ Brussels sprouts ]

moments to land a perfect one, free of bubbles and breaks. It all culminates far from the fantasy factory of Willy Wonka: in a closet-sized, airfree storage room, where sheets of edible silver and gold (which revolt against even a whisper of a breeze) are applied with cotton gloves and steely precision in monastic silence. Heaven help the sneeze-prone. Foster and Hart have forged not just a deep, dark, delicious robot of ingenious cool, but a reluctant one as well, with clueless eyes and clutching a big industrial heart in his two-fingered hands. “He’s saying, ‘Be My Valentine,’ but he’s a little nervous,” says Foster. “Robots are sensitive, too.” As he should be: You’re going to bite his head off. — kAREn BRookS

Alma Chocolate, 140 N.E. 28th Ave., 503-517-0262, $15 Foster’s “Robot Love” group art show opens Feb. 5 at Good: A Gallery, 4325 N. Mississippi Ave., goodpdx.com

something to read / cookbook full of cool chefs You’ll never cook from it, but you should have it anyway. Published by Phaidon, who’ve been making a lot of nerdysexy books lately (“1080 Recipes,” “Pork & Sons,” “A Day at elBulli”), “Coco” looks all Euro-designy and is filled with profiles and recipes from 100 chefs around the world who were chosen by “10 WorldLeading Masters,” which is a way to describe demigods such

as Gordon Ramsay, Ferran Adrià, Fergus Henderson and Mario Batali, he of the orange clogs, who picked our own Tommy Habetz as one of his chefs (yay!). All the recipes look challenging, to say the least, but hey, it’s 2010 and we can handle a challenge. And there’s a techie glossary in the back with food words we’d never even heard of. Mycryo, anyone?

Come on, man up and just try these — any past traumas will be exorcised once you taste how good these sweet, nutty choux can be.

or Trim the ends, cut each sprout into 3 or 4 slices, sauté in good olive oil until tender, tossing in minced garlic, grated lemon zest, salt and pepper in the last few seconds. or Trim the ends, halve the

sprouts, toss with a bit of melted butter, salt and pepper, roast at 400 degrees in a Pyrex baking dish until barely tender. Pour in some whipping cream and a handful of ParmigianoReggiano, tumble to coat, keep roasting until the cream is bubbly and brown. or Cook some bacon, cook some minced onion in some of the bacon fat, add some trimmed and quartered sprouts, salt and pepper, and sauté a few minutes until browned. Add a bit of chicken stock, sprig of fresh thyme, cover and braise until tender. Uncover, cook until sprouts are just slightly sloppy, squeeze in some lemon, add back crumbled bacon.

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starterscont.

to do

obsessive

February

He makes coffee look like mad science

Feb. 1

It’s obvious, don’t you think? February has been designated both National Cherry Month and Great American Pies Month. Honor both with homemade cherry pie. Feb. 3-7

I wanna be Brazilian! Create some virtual South American sunshine by 1) Feasting on meaty Churrasco specialties at Brazil Grill, and 2) Marveling at the mix of hip-hop and martial arts with Brazilian dance company Bruno Beltrao/Grupo de Rua. brazilgrillrestaurant.com whitebird.org Feb. 5-6

Cracked crab, for charity 14

The oregon Convention Center becomes a two-day wonderland of oregon’s bounty with the Portland Seafood and Wine Festival, all to raise money to fight multiple sclerosis. metroproductions.net/ seafoodandwine

1978, WGBH / WnET

Feb. 11

You & Julia Celebrate the 47th anniversary of the premiere of TV’s “The French Chef” by making Julia Child’s classic beef bourguignon, then watching “Julie & Julia” on DVD, where the dish plays a pivotal role.

more to do

Wille Yli-Luoma, owner of Portland’s new eastside coffee shop Heart and influential pro snowboarder, is obsessive about roasting and serving great coffee. His geeky toy: a halogen-powered Hikari siphon bar, one of a handful in the U.S., looking like something out of “The Time Machine,” costing more than your car and meant to brew a reverential cup. You sip it slowly, without cream or sugar. To add Sweet ’n Low would Heart Coffee be as gauche as and Roasting heckling a sym2211 E. Burnside phony conductor. heartroasters.com The siphon or “vac” pot was invented in Europe in the 1800s. It’s popular in Japan and an obsession in Taiwan but is new to America. San Francisco’s Blue Bottle Cafe landed the first imported deluxe halogen-powered siphon bar in 2008 — causing headlines such as “At Last, a $20,000 Cup of Coffee” — and Barista in the Pearl District installed a petite siphon bar in Portland last February. So what’s the big deal? If you’ve ever thrilled to the sight of a death ray or were the one who thought Mr. Jensen’s eighth grade science class was high-tech, hard-core and cool, the siphon bar is for you. Double-decker glass orbs set over a row of muscular gold burners shoot out Star Trekian light beams. The process works like an über Italian stove-top macchinetta: steam from the lower chamber violently forces water up like a gravity-defying geyser into a top chamber partially filled with coffee grounds, which are then stirred by hand with a bamboo paddle. once the bottom chamber is empty, the vacuum pulls the brewed coffee back down through a strainer, sucking the grounds dry and extracting every molecule of flavor. That covers the science but not the theater: glowing

talk to us! we want to hear from you, so join our facebook page — mix: portland’s magazine of food + drink. You can even become a fan.

thermonuclear colors, typhoons of swirling water and raging bubbles — all in a two-minute show that produces a ($6) cup made just for you, an impossibly smooth, beautifully fragrant brew free of sediment. “It’s good for people who aren’t big coffee drinkers,” says Yli-Luoma. “It’s more tea-like. It highlights pleasant notes that only come from a vacuum pot. It’s a completely different style.” Where does the art begin and the science end? Some say the secret to a perfect vac pot is the ability to stir the grounds without touching the glass. others debate the efficacy of the bean or the cool-down methods. “our style is part Japanese and part our own,” says the quietly intense Yli-Luoma. “Are we doing it right? I don’t care. Does it taste really amazing? That’s what counts.” — kAREn BRookS PHoToGRAPH BY MoToYA nAkAMURA

starterscont. to do cont.

what he said

Feb. 12

Meet a real salami swami

Eat like Don Draper Head to Sur La Table and learn to make perfect new York steak, plus classic sides like shrimp cocktail, gruyère popovers and cheesecake. Martinis not included. cookingclasses. surlatable.com

At Olympic Provisions, behind the glass door marked “Meat Dept,” salumist Elias Cairo is up to his elbows in pig and paperwork. With experience behind him and talent at his fingertips, Cairo has plans to put Portland on the artisanal meat map. I stopped by the recently opened restaurant and deli to ask him a few questions about his new gig. How did you get hooked on curing meats? In Switzerland when I apprenticed at Stump’s Alpenrose. Hunters would drop off hundreds of animals during the season. There was an in-house butcher, and what he could do with one animal was amazing: pâtés, sausages and traditional cured meats, all made right there, left to cure in the basement. I heard you referred to as “Scientifico Loco” (mad scientist). Fill me in on the loco part: Ahh, that’s Marty (one of our partners) being great. I’m always talking about the structure of animals and meat science. Who is your charcuterie hero? In America it’s Jerry Eichentopf for sure, a third-generation sausage maker at otto’s Sausage kitchen. He’s a machine, really; it’s overlooked how talented that guy is. 16

Do you have a ritual with the animal before you begin the cuts? I carefully check the animal to make sure it was handled well. I don’t feel sadness at all, but joy that I’m using the whole animal and turning it into so many things for others to enjoy. I’d feel more sad if I had to open plastic bags to get my meat products. Did salami play a role in your childhood? oh, a huge, huge role. My dad is first-generation Greek, and we never went anywhere — walking, hunting or fishing — without a chunk of salami, hard cheese and bread. We

Feb. 14 raised our own animals, hunted Olympic Provisions and kept bees. I was fascinated 107 S.E. Washington St. by how my father could slaugh- 11a.m. - 10 p.m., ter anything and know what to Mon. - Fri. do with it. My dad was the original at-home butcher. He could do so many things . . . those Greek guys, you know. This is a USDA facility (Oregon’s first), so how does it feel to have Big Brother looking over your shoulder? It puts my mind at ease to know they’re overseeing my work every step of the way. I have to do it their way or I get punished, and they watch everything I do. They’re impressed that it’s a one-man show and that I do the lab work, butchering and forming all myself.

The most/least romantic day of the year You did make reservations, didn’t you? Feb. 16-21

Admit it, you can’t wait to see this Start with: Cocktails and snacks at downtown’s H50 Bistro & Bar Then go to: “Legally Blonde: The Musical” at keller Auditorium h5obistro.com portlandopera.org

What will we find on the meat list at Olympic Provisions? At first, we’ll have three chorizos from northern, central and southern Spain. And also a saucisson sec, a lightly soured pork with garlic and black pepper, it’s my favorite salami for sure. I’ll do a few Italian varieties like sopressata and finocchiona and also a salami nola that’s made with just salt, pork and culture. I’ll use a couple of different farms to showcase the flavors in this one, because you can really taste the pig. — TERI GELBER PHoToGRAPH BY JAMIE FRAnCIS

Feb. 20

Basic knife skills class

knowledge / cutting big leafY greens 1 Cut out the tough rib in the cen- 2 To make the big leaves more We love to cook and eat leafy greens, such as kale, collards and Swiss chard (see Blake Van Roekel’s Polenta Chard Wraps With Pancetta and Gorgonzola Dolce, Page 28), so we want to show you a neat way to handle them.

ter of the leaf by simply slicing along both sides and pulling it off. For chard, you should slice the rib up and include it in your dish; for most other greens, it’s too tough, although perfect for guinea pigs.

manageable for cooking and eating, stack a few, roll them up, and slice across into ribbons, as thick or thin as you like.

Learn how to slice, dice and julienne like the pros with a hands-on class at In Good Taste. cookingschoolsofamerica. com/ingoodtaste Feb. 26-28

More delicious seafood, this time at the coast A great excuse for a wintertime trip to the coast, Newport Seafood & Wine Festival celebrates its 33rd year. This year’s theme: The Grape Wild West. That’s a play on words. newportchamber.org/ seafood_wine.htm

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walkabout

Taqueria la Chiquita

[ North Killingsworth Street ] ay “Killingsworth” to a Portland foodie, and she’ll probably respond, “Northeast 30th.” That’s the intersection where Micah Camden has built a cozy little dining village out of his glamorously rustic Beast, Yakuza, DOC and Fats restaurants. (He’s had help from Oswaldo Bibiano, whose Autentica restaurant at the same crossroads cooks up Mexican food the way your Guerrerense grandmother would.) But Killingsworth Street is a seriously long strip of asphalt, rolling all the way from PDX at its eastern end to the bluff overlooking Swan Island at its western end, and Northwest 30th Avenue is only one intersection. For a taste of what’s happening beyond CamdenTown, head west, to the stretch of Killingsworth straddling Interstate 5. This is where you’ll find a food lover’s mashup: Italian pastry, Mexican tacos, British fish ’n’ chips, Asian groceries, Ethiopian stews, and coffee. Gallons of coffee, actually. Which, this time of year, you’ll both want and need. BY CArOlINE CuMMINS PHOTOGrAPHY BY BrIAN lEE

Start the morning at Killingsworth’s western end, just east of North Greeley Avenue, at 1 Blend Coffee Lounge (2710 N. Killingsworth St.; 503-4738616; open daily), where the coffee is from Stumptown, the pastries are likewise local and savory breakfast sandwiches are made in the shop. Ask for a drip, and it’s poured to order through a white ceramic filter — unless you want the cafe’s cold-press coffee, brewed

N. greeley ave.

S 18

The Fish and Chip Shop

1 blend Coffee lounge

slowly with cold water over 12 hours and served chilled. A double espresso here is admirably ristretto, presented Italian-style with a little glass of water on the side. Head back out the door and walk east, past the Overlook neighborhood’s little 1920s Craftsman homes. On your left, you can’t overlook the bright red-and-orange boxes of Daybreak Cohousing, Portland’s newest cohousing community, built around a 50-year-old maple tree. Wedged in between the

houses is an eclectic collection of mom-and-pops: a pizzeria, an auto-body shop, a diner, a pet washeria and a knitting store. Funkiest is probably the stucco meeting hall with “Podkrepa Association 1939” written in Art Deco letters over the entrance. If today is the last Saturday of the month, you’ve got a once-a-month-only treat to try: the zeppole fried to order at 2 DiPrima Dolci (1926 N. Killingsworth St.; 503-283-5936; www. diprimadolci.com; open daily),

Vieng lao Oriental Food Center

red E

restaurant, to the parking lot of the bargain-priced 76 gas station at the junction with Interstate Avenue. Cheap gas means long lines of idling cars — not the ideal snacking atmosphere, but hey, if you’ve burned through your coffee and doughnuts already, hang a right under the awning of the 3 Taqueria La Chiquita (open Mondays through Fridays 9 to 6, Saturdays 9 to 4; closed Sundays) taco truck. Formerly known as Tres

Hermanos, back when it was parked across the street from DiPrima, la Chiquita slaps together quesadillas, tortas and burritos. But the soft tacos are what you want here — and not just for their bargain price of $1.25 apiece. Tofu and vegetarian options are available, but do as the other customers do and order a lengua taco. Squeeze one of la Chiquita’s red or green salsas atop the taco’s chopped onion and cilantro, sit at one of the plastic tables under the

N. albiNa ave.

pastry case, and you’ll realize that ricotta is the secret ingredient in many of the bakery’s southern-Italian specialties: not just in the cannoli filling but in the ricotta cookies, the ricotta cheesecake and the sfogliatelle, a triangleshaped puff pastry with orange semolina and ricotta custard. And yes, that mournful music wafting over the bakery’s sound system is indeed the theme from “The Godfather.” Keep strolling east, past the now-defunct roux

5 Vieng lao oriental Food Center

N. michigaN ave.

the orange Italian bakery on the southeast corner of Killingsworth and North Denver Avenue. Zeppole look like doughnut holes, but they’re a far more heavenly version of those leaden, cakey golf balls. These are light, spicy fritters, moist from ricotta, crisp from quick frying, and sweet and messy from their coating of powdered sugar. Hand over a buck and you’ll get a little bag of three zeppole in return. Dig their ricotta tang? Scan the

4 the Fish and Chip Shop

Saraveza

3 taqueria la Chiquita

Red E

2 DiPrima Dolci

N. iNterstate ave.

N. KilliNgsworth st.

E’Njoni CoffeehouseCafe Five

awning, and snack away. Made-to-order tacos aside, it’s still cold and wet out, and you need more shelter than an awning. Cross Interstate, then, and walk a few blocks east to the straightforwardly titled 4 The Fish and Chip Shop (1218 N. Killingsworth St.; 503-232-3344; thefishandchipshop.com; open daily). Sure, you can get other downmarket British fare here besides fried fish and spuds — mushy peas, sausage

walkabout / NoRth killiNgSwoRth CoNt.

Saraveza

E ‘Njoni Cafe

20 rolls, Heinz curry beans — but this is a classic chippy. If you think fried fish is necessarily greasy, think again; the fillets of cod, halibut, haddock, Dover sole and red snapper here are terrifically light and moist. The same can’t be said of the chips, which are less French-fried than British-fried: thick and soggy. Slosh some malt vinegar over them and wash ’em down with a Tizer (a Scottish black currantcitrus soda), and you’ll feel ready to run with the soccer hooligans. For an American touch, grab a sundae or a malted in the adjoining ice-cream parlor; The Fish and Chip Shop uses Breyers ice cream supplied by the building’s

landlord, who runs Portland Ice Cream Co. (a purveyor of summertime ice-cream-truck standards like Klondike Bars) just a few doors down. Scurry across Killingsworth’s Interstate 5 overpass and duck into the beige doorway of 5 Vieng Lao Oriental Food Center (1032 N. Killingsworth St.; 503-285-7833; open daily), where an astonishing range of Asian groceries is crammed into two small storefronts. Need beef shanks for stock, or an entire fresh fish? Check. How about frozen cuttlefish and ducks? Check. What about a 5-pound bag of black rice, or a set of soup spoons, or those little drip-coffee

setups you need to make Thai iced coffee? Done. They’ve also got plenty of Asian candy and ramen if all you really want is sugary, salty junk food. In the next couple of blocks, you’ve got several options for putting up your feet: the coffee at the minimalist 6 Red E cafe (1006 N. Killingsworth St.; theredecafe.com; 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily), which serves blends from Chicago-based Intelligentsia, and singleorigin coffees from local roaster Coava, and the beer at the booth-filled 7 Saraveza pub (1004 N. Killingsworth St.; 503-2064252; 11 a.m. to midnight, closed Tuesday), where you’ll find 10 beers on tap and dozens more to go in the two cooler cases. But by now you might be hungry

again and looking for something beyond the usual espresso routine. So pull over at 8 E’Njoni Cafe (910 N. Killingsworth St.; 503-286-1401; www.enjonicafe.com; open daily). Probably Portland’s plushest Ethiopian restaurant, E’Njoni dishes up a menu that, while focused on the foods of northeast Africa (spicy stews, tangy salads and endless rolls of fermented injera bread), detours to include Mediterranean fare like hummus and tiramisu. Try to stop in on a weekend afternoon around 2 or 3 p.m., when the staff turn a cushionfilled corner of the restaurant into a ceremonial coffee-making site. Grab a cushion and watch

as they light incense, roast the beans over a burner, grind them and brew the dark lightning before pouring it into little cups and passing it around. If you miss the ceremony, you’ve got one last chance for a caffeine fix: 9 Coffeehouse-Five (740 N. Killingsworth St.; 503-2867125; www.coffeehouse-five. com; open daily), where the single-origin beans also come from Coava. What with the array of familiar pastries from local bakers and the same four-pack of white filters for those dripto-order coffees, you may start to think you’re back at Blend Coffee lounge again. Which wouldn’t be a bad thing — just about every block serves something to sustain you. £

Ave

N Alberta St

N Shaver St

TAKE OUT OR DINE IN

NE 30th

N Alberta St

N Vancouver

N Killingsworth

N Albina Ave

Ave

N Interstate

N Greeley Ave

N Concord Ave

N Omaha

N. Portland/North Killingsworth St

The Fish & Chip Shop

ENGLISH-STYLE FISH & CHIPS

BATTERED BATTERED TO TO ORDER ORDER

CH EERS!

Pure Lif P Life Cli Clinic i

Geniune English Style Fish ‘n Chips

Beaterville Cafe Serving Breakfast all day! Try our famous matador omelet. We also serve lunch and dinner. Our evening hours have expanded to meet growing crowds. We’re located just west of the light-rail on Killingsworth.

Picture relief from your pain. At Pure Life Clinic, you will have your own personal team of healthcare professionals focused on you. Chiropractic, Acupuncture, Massage Therapy, Exercise Therapy, Postural Training, Auto Accident Rehabilitation, Diet Counseling, Nutrition, Detox, Microcurrent Facials and Raindrop Technique.

The Fish & Chip Shop is Portland’s ﬁrst, and only truly authentic British “Chippy”. We use the freshest ingredients available. Our chowder and tartar sauce is made from scratch. The chips are cut from FRESH potatoes, and our ﬁsh is cut and battered to order. “You’ve tried the rest, now taste the best!”. Now serving beer and wine. February Special with this ad: “Catch me a large, Regular charge” on any large Fish & Chips Combo.

Mon – Fri 6am – 2pm Wed – Sat 4pm -9pm Sun 7am – 2pm 503.735.4652 2201 N Killingsworth www.beaterville-cafe.com 2

118 N. Killingsworth 503.288.4454 www.purelifeclinic.com

BUY ONE SANDWICH, GET THE 2nd FREE

1218 N. Killingsworth 503.232.3344 theﬁshandchipshop.com

Guardino Gallery Featuring Contemporary Art & Crafts. Changing monthly shows in two areas. Two rooms of gift shop art. Tues 11-5, Wed-Sat 11-6, Sun 11-4 2939 NE Alberta 503.281.9048 www.guardinogallery.com 8

Homemade handtossed pizza

Northwest Fresh

Located in North Portland’s Overlook Village Atomic Pizza serves whole pizzas, slices, giant salads and calzones. The hand-tossed dough is made fresh daily, topped with their homemade original recipe sauces and fresh premium toppings. Offering local beers and wine, available to-go as well. Great food, local monthly artists, Atomic Pizza is a family friendly, owner run restaurant. Less than a year old and already receiving awards and rave reviews. Stop by Atomic Pizza, you won’t be disappointed.

North Station

2150 N Killingsworth St. 503.285.5490 atomic-pizza.com

2730 N. Killingsworth 503.675.3925

North Station will provide a variety of exciting, appetizing, and affordable local food. It’s located on the corner of two busy throughfares, Greeley and Killingsworth. We now have reservations from Wicked Wafﬂes, Caraquena, Brother Bob’s Bakery, Kettle Kitchen, Starchy & Husk, Pizza Depokos, Saucy’s Ribs, and PDX Six Seven One. North Station also provides indoor seating and free WI-FI to customers.

Eddie’s is a family friendly pizza place like you’d ﬁnd on every corner in Chicago. We have a wide variety of specialties including fresh baked breads, in house roasted meats for our sandwiches and the best Chicago style thin crust pizza in the city! Everything at Eddie is special in some way for example the burgers are fresh never frozen hormone free Montana beef on the softest home made buns ever and only $2.99. Stop by and see what all the talks about. Hours 11am-10pm Lunch 11am-2pm Happy Hour 3:30-5:30 M-F 233 N. Killingsworth 503.289.4700 www.EddiesFlatIronPizza.com

N. Portland/Killingsworth Marketplace

Ainsworth Drug and Gift Not Your Ordinary Drug Store Toasts shine brighter when you raise these gold-kissed wine and martini glasses from the Allen Lee Collection. Each Jewel wine glass and Vienna Sunrise martini glass comes with its own signature gift box. $29.99 each. 4027 N. Interstate Avenue 503.282.0787 ainsworthdrug.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Bryan Palmer at 503.294-4131 or bryanp@sales.oregonian.com

12425 SW Main St • Tigard, OR 97223 503-598-0144 • www.sherriesjewelrybox.com

12425 SW Main St Tigard, OR 97223 503-598-0144

www.sherriesjewelrybox.com

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[ It’s Whiskey 101. Time to drink your homework. ]

ecoming a member of the Brooklyn Park Pub’s Whisky Club is simple. Drink 30 different whiskies, including five bourbons, five scotches and five ryes. Keep track on a card and take as long as you want to finish. Nate Dewey, the bar’s owner and Whisky Club creator, also has one unwritten rule: The bartenders aren’t supposed to initial more than three, maybe four, whiskies on your card in one sitting. When you get to No. 30 there will be clapping, someone will probably buy you a shot and you get a T-shirt and a dollar off whiskey for life. Even if you knew nothing about whiskey when you started, you’ll know a lot now. The Whisky Club has existed since Dewey bought the bar on Feb. 2, 2006, and at last count had about 130 members, with about 200 or so people working on it. “People get locked into drinking their favorite four or five whiskies, if they even drink that many,” Dewey says. “The Whisky Club is about tasting. It gives people a reason, an excuse, to try something different.” By mElIssa BEarNs / PhoTograPhy By moToya NaKamura

NIELSEN’S Jewelers Since 1892

Winemaker’s Dinner

Saturday, February 13, 2010 Hosted by Anne Amie Vineyards

mixmaster cont.

$75/person $65/Wine Club 6:30PM

Price includes dinner, wine & gratuity

Come join Winemakers and Vineyard Owners from each winery, along with fellow foodies, for an extensive interactive tasting menu.

503-234-1614 825 NE Multnomah, Suite 280 Lloyd Center Tower across from the skybridge from Nordstrom

For reservations or to find out more please visit us online or call

503Ͳ864Ͳ2991 www.anneamie.com

6580 NE Mineral Springs Rd. Carlton, OR 97111

Whisky Club isn’t about memorizing that bourbon has to be made with a minimum of 51 percent corn or that scotches from Islay taste a certain way. It’s rare that someone waxes poetic about pairings (though Buffalo Trace goes quite nicely with Brooklyn Park’s reuben). It’s about learning what you like, which in my case went beyond just the whiskey itself to include some of the true whiskey lovers I met at the Brooklyn.

Learning by doing

Valentine’s Day Spanish Style/Tapas & Tempranillo February 13th. Reservations Required

The city is gripped by a heat wave so prolonged that you can feel the heat radiating from the sidewalk at midnight. This is weather for blended fruity cocktails, hefeweizens, lagers — all things cool and light. But tonight the beers on the blackboard at the Brooklyn are all wrong, or all right, depending on your perspective. Celebration ale, Bifröst Winter ale, snow Cap, Jubelale, Wreck the halls — dark, thick beers brewed for the icy heart of winter. The bartender explains the tradition: kegs held since

January and brought out during the dog days of summer. Who can pass up Jubelale in July? We order a Wild Turkey 101 and a Knob Creek, specifically because they’re bold and spicy enough to drink alongside a back of winter beer. We’re learning. ■ “oh honey, let me save you from yourself,” says the bartender, roman De leon, shaking his head after I order a scotch solely because I like the name, Caol Ila. It’s early — first card, first row. The scotches are a new world for me, and my palate is still adjusting to the smoke, the peat. he pours a splash into a shot glass so I can taste it. smells of antiseptic and Band-aids, and tastes about that good, too. unlike some things I’ve tasted through the Whisky Club, the flavor of Caol Ila remains, even years later. ■ roman calls them “the reed kids,” even though only a few actually went to reed. For them, as for many, the Whisky Club was simply an excuse to meet every week and have a few drinks. The whiskey

No, you’re not hallucinating — we’re spelling it “whiskey” sometimes and “whisky” other times. our style is to use the with-an-e spelling when referring to all types of whiskies. If referring only to scotch or Canadian whisky, we’d drop the e. see, we just did it. Brooklyn Park calls their club “Whisky Club,” so when referring to the club, we go e-less. It’s enough to make you pour yourself a drink.

Gerding Theater at the Armory 128 NW Eleventh Avenue

503.445.3700

www.pcs.org

Feb 23–Mar 21

Brooklyn Park Pub is creating lifelong learners with its Whisky Club. Taste your way through the vast world of whiskies, learn a few things about pot stills, sour mash and the lincoln County Process. But most important, make time to step away from the world and relax.

drinkers in the group completed their cards long ago, but they still meet every Thursday to hang out and play cards, usually spades, and drink. “I did find out what types of whiskey I like, that I don’t like ryes, that I like the slightly sweeter scotches, and bourbons,” says Bryan Nelson. “another big perk is that I can go into a bar and order a whiskey and actually know what I’m talking about.” ■ It’s a slow night, and roman joins the table with a game of his own: Kiefer sutherland movies. When you can’t think of one, you’re eliminated; winner gets a whiskey on the house. he’s been bartending at the Brooklyn for 2½ years and estimates about 100 people have finished their card while he was working. he calls it a “special moment,” and he’s kind of joking, but kind of not. ■ The guy who just walked up to our table is rockin’ the tweed and the ’80s high collar. “how’d you like the old Forester? The Four roses? The Corner Creek?” he asks. It’s Nate, the owner, and every

week he checks on us, chatting about whiskey, adding names to the list of recommendations he started on the back of our cards. It’s fun but not overwhelming. he clearly wants to share and educate us, rather than prove how much he knows. over the course of a year, the time it took me to complete my first card, Nate taught Whiskey 101 in such a compelling way that I found myself reading, studying and soon discovering that the things I tasted had names. ■ I’m more than halfway through my second card, and my whiskey classroom now extends far beyond the Brooklyn Park Pub. But it will always be my favorite place to sit and sip, a neighborhood bar where sweaty soccer players, college kids, mall Barbies, food industry folks, Joe the Plumber and guys old enough to be my granddad all kick it together, a bar where you can walk up to almost anyone and talk about whiskey. 3400 S.E. Milwaukie Ave. 503-234-7772 £ For where to buy, see shop, Page 72

friday night dinner party [ It’s crowded in here, and we like that ] The Menu Chestnuts Roasted on an Open Fire Cauliflower Apple Soup With Sel Gris Polenta Chard Wraps With Pancetta and Gorgonzola Dolce Double-Chocolate Cayenne Cookies Fig, Date and Almond Cake

By BlAke VAN ROekel / Photography by SuSAN SeuBeRT

or a living, I create art-inspired culinary events. My menus are inspired by the art. The food is meticulously planned, the plating is carefully crafted and the art filters into the sensory experience for the diner. There is a script. At home, however, I wear flip-flops. When I go to someone’s house for a dinner party, I love it when they still have dirty dishes in the sink and they really don’t care. I like it even better when they leave everything to enjoy their wine with their friends at the close of the night. I remind myself of that when having folks to my place. No party is perfect. No home is perfect. We all have dust bunnies. Frankly, it feels good to walk into a real, working home. If it’s too in-place, I feel like I can’t let my potty mouth slip or I that must perfectly fold the guest towel. It’s nice to be in a place where you can kick off your shoes because the host sure as heck did. Some of my favorite entertaining moments came from cooking for a load of surfers in a trailer (aptly named Mobile Madness) on the Oregon coast with a stove that hardly worked and makeshift pots and pans made from foil. Bruschetta, anyone?

Along that vein, we return to the basics. Now that I live in 450 square feet, making space for friends allows me to be creative, and also brings people closer together (um, literally). My old apartment was actually bigger by 200 square feet, and we fit in a whole crew during the Portland snowstorms when the city shut down. Sometimes being “stuck” is fun. I suppose now my guests can experience a similar coziness. Given what I do for a living, it pains me not to have a ginormous dining table, however. In the summer, we can spill outside. But in the winter, we work with what we have and the warmth of the fire pit on the patio. The food needs to be easy to eat. I can have three or four friends over, and we perch on stools at my kitchen prep table and eat there. Otherwise, it must be satisfying finger food that can be somewhat mobile. Comfort and ease are important (i.e. Mug-O-Soup). Dribbling down one’s front does not make for happy guests. I am not particularly fond of disposable dishes, even for large groups; they are so wasteful. With a lot of guests, I just put a bin in the kitchen where dirty dishes can go and wait for the morning. Nothing stacks up, the counters are clear, and people feel like they are still doing their “part.” My plates are easily replaceable, so if something breaks we can do a toast and toss one more!

Roasting Chestnuts on the Fire Pit Select chestnuts that feel firm when pressed in their shell, without much space or give between the meat inside and the outer shell (if there is much give, that means the meat has begun to dry out and get hard). Place them flat side down on a cutting board. With a sharp knife, score the shell with an X. This allows steam to escape (thus, no exploding nuts) and makes peeling them easier. Put the nuts in a grilling basket or a cast iron skillet. Cover with foil and roast for 15 to 25 minutes, depending on the heat of the fire. Shake the basket or pan occasionally while roasting to help cook the nuts on all sides. Remove the pan from the fire. Transfer the nuts to a bowl and cover them with a towel. let steam for 5 minutes. This can help with peeling them. enjoy them warm!

friday night dinner party cont.

blake van Roekel (above, rolling the chard) has party-planning all figured out: cozy space, helpful friends, fabulous food and no worries about doing the dishes after the party. oh, and don’t forget the favors — little jars of her homemade pear butter.

Cauliflower apple soup Makes 4 quaRts (14 to 16 seRvinGs)

This soup freezes well.

Break apart or chop cauliflower into 1-inch florets. Place 1 head cauliflower in a stockpot with the milk, 1½ cups of the broth, the bay leaf, 3 quarts whole milk thyme and 1 tablespoon salt. 2½ to 3 cups chicken or Cover, reduce heat to low and vegetable broth (divided) simmer until the cauliflower is soft, about 20 minutes, watching 1 bay leaf to make sure the milk does not 1 sprig thyme scald. Remove the bay leaf and thyme sprig. kosher salt Meanwhile, melt butter in a 3 tablespoons butter large saucepan. On low heat, 2 onions, diced cook the diced onions with 2 2 Granny Smith apples, teaspoons salt until onions are cored, peeled and finely translucent, soft and sweet, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in the apples chopped and cook until apples are soft 2 apples of another and cooked through, about 10 variety, cored, peeled minutes longer. and finely chopped Pour the apple mixture into the (we used Braeburns) stockpot with the cauliflower. ¼ teaspoon freshly Simmer for another 20 minground white pepper utes. Purée with an immersion blender or in a regular blender ½ cup whipping cream in batches. Thin to desired consistency with remaining Coarse sea salt (Blake broth. Add pepper; adjust likes Sel Gris de l’Ile de seasoning with additional salt Noirmoutier; see note) and pepper, if needed. Stir in or other artisanal salt, cream. Garnish with coarse sea for garnish salt. Note: Find Sel Gris de l’Ile de Noirmoutier and other artisanal salts at The Meadow, 3731 N. Mississippi Ave.; www.atthemeadow.com/shop. — From Blake Van Roekel

Polenta Chard Wraps With Pancetta and Gorgonzola Dolce Makes about 24 PieCes

These are best served the same day. Filling: ¼ cup finely chopped pancetta ¼ cup diced shallots 1 teaspoon butter ¼ cup chopped walnuts ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon quatre épices (see note) ¼ to ½ cup crumbled gorgonzola dolce cheese ¼ cup dark raisins

To make filling: In a small skillet, cook the pancetta over medium heat until browned and lightly crisped, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low, add shallots and cook until soft and sweet; remove from pan and set aside. Add the butter and walnuts to the pan and cook until they release their aroma. Add the salt and quatre épices to the walnuts, allowing the spices to warm in the pan. Combine pancetta, shallots, walnuts and raisins in a small bowl and allow to cool a bit. Stir in the crumbled gorgonzola (if it’s quite salty, use the lesser amount). Set aside. This step can be made a day ahead and refrigerated. To make polenta: Put the water in a medium saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat and add ½ teaspoon salt. Slowly add polenta while stirring. Add cream. Turn heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until polenta grains are soft to the bite, 15 to 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Remove pan from heat and let sit; the polenta should stay warmish and pliable, but it’s Ok if it firms up a bit.

Meanwhile, to assemble the wraps, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the chard leaves for about 10 seconds. 2 cups water They need to be pliable, but not so soft that they tear (kale will take at least 3 minutes, but taste to test). Drain the leaves kosher salt and pat dry with paper towels. Slice down either side of the stem and remove. Cut the leaves into 2- by 3-inch squares (or ½ cup polenta (regular, as close as you can; it comes to about 2 to 4 squares per leaf). not instant) Put about 1 tablespoon of polenta in the middle and create ¼ cup whipping cream a dent with the back of a spoon or your finger. Place 1 heaping teaspoon or so of filling in the dent. Roll to enclose Wrappers: filling and fold leaf ends under each other, creating a 1 bunch Swiss chard or “dolma” shape. Cover and let sit at room temperature for lacinato kale (also called at least 30 minutes for polenta to firm up. Cut in half and cavalo nero or dinosaur kale) serve sliced side up on plate. If these are refrigerated before serving, let them come to room temperature or warm them slightly in a buttered pan on low heat. Polenta:

Note: A simple combination for quatre épices is: ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon ground allspice, 1⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves.

Enhance your

Romance

Double-Chocolate Cayenne Cookies Makes 8 Dozen Cookies

2 cups chopped (80 percent to 85 percent cacao) chocolate (10 ounces) 1 cup butter, at room temperature (2 sticks) 1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar ¾ cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper (use a bit less if you prefer it milder) 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 eggs 1¾ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ heaping teaspoon salt 1 cup chopped (60 percent to 70 percent cacao) chocolate (about 5½ ounces) ½ to ¾ cup turbinado sugar (such as Sugar in the Raw) or other coarse sugar

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Melt the 80 percent to 85 percent cacao chocolate in the top pan of a double boiler or by placing a metal mixing bowl over simmering water (don’t let it touch the water). Once chocolate is melted, set aside. In a mixing bowl using an electric mixer on high, beat the butter until light and smooth, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the brown and granulated sugars and continue mixing until incorporated. Reduce mixer speed to low, add the melted chocolate, cayenne, vanilla and eggs. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the chocolate mixture in three batches, incorporating the flour before adding the next batch. Finally, fold in the chopped 60 percent to 70 percent cacao chocolate. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or overnight. If making the cookies the next day, let dough soften for about 10 minutes at room temperature. Roll dough into 1-inch balls. line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat. On a plate, roll the balls in the ½ cup turbinado sugar to coat and place on the prepared pan about 1½ inches apart. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes and cool on wire rack. These are also delicious warm!

Escape with your special Valentine to the only destination resort spa in the Columbia River Gorge. Just 35 minutes from Portland, in the beautiful city of North Bonneville, this resort is your home for romantic luxury, impeccable service and soothing relaxation. Tour more than 30 local wineries within an hour of the resort or just relax with a massage, bath & wrap or more than 40 body treatments in our ﬁrst-class European-style spa. Enjoy romantic dining in the Paciﬁc Crest Dining Room then relax in the privacy of your guest room with fresh air balcony hot tub.

FEBRUARY ROMANCE PACKAGES Enjoy an overnight stay for two in your choice of rooms; Deluxe Guest Room $225; Hot Tub East $275 or Hot Tub Hillside $295. Package includes one bottle of our house champagne, one long stemmed rose, two delicious chocolate covered pretzels and two green card vouchers for a dollar donation to the Green Society. Available for dinner is our 7-course meal. Reservations required. Based on availability Sunday thru Thursday only. Not valid with any other offer, coupon or discounts. Registered guest must be 21 or older to receive alcohol. Offer expires Feb. 29th and is not valid Feb. 14 thru 18.

BONNEVILLE HOT SPRINGS RESORT & SPA 866-459-1678

www.BonnevilleResort.com

friday night dinner party cont. Fig, Date and almond Cake Makes 12 to 16 seRvinGs

Cake: 1 cup chopped dried dates (4 to 5 ounces)

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1 cup dried figs, stemmed, sliced in half lengthwise (4 to 5 ounces) 1½ cups fresh orange juice 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 cup butter, softened to room temperature (2 sticks) 1 egg plus 1 yolk ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar (divided) 2 teaspoons orange flower water (or ¼ teaspoon orange extract) ¼ teaspoon almond extract ½ cup semolina flour ¾ cup sifted all-purpose flour

Mika

J a p a n e s e · F o o d

2 tablespoons cornstarch Heaping ¼ teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt ⁄3 cup finely ground almond meal/flour

Happy Hour ♦ 3PM to Close $ 1.00 -$3.00 Menu

Sushi · Sashimi Tempura · Udon We Serve Only Wild Alaskan King Salmon and Fresh Tuna

Glaze: 1 egg yolk 1 tablespoon milk Syrup: Reserved liquid from soaking dried fruit ½ cup granulated sugar Sweetened whipped cream, for serving

To make cake: Put the dates, figs, orange and lemon juices in a small saucepan. Slowly warm to just below a simmer; turn off heat and let sit for an hour. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan and cut out a round of parchment paper to fit the bottom. Press paper into buttered bottom and then flip it over so that the top of the parchment is buttered as well. In a large bowl using an electric mixer on high, beat the butter until fluffy and very pale, about 10 minutes. Add egg and the yolk and ½ cup sugar. Continue to beat on high for another 5 minutes to introduce air into the mixture. Beat in orange flower water and almond extract. In a separate bowl, sift together the semolina flour, all-purpose flour and cornstarch. Whisk in the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar, baking powder, salt and almond meal. Fold slowly into butter mixture. Strain liquid from the soaking fruit and reserve, then fold the fruit into cake batter. Carefully pour the batter into the prepared pan, scraping out the bowl. Bake until the edges of the cake pull away from the sides of the pan and it is golden, 30 to 35 minutes. Glaze hot cake as directed below. To make glaze: Whisk the egg yolk and milk together; brush on the hot cake to make it shiny. let cool in the pan. To make syrup: Bring the reserved liquid from the dried fruit to a boil with the sugar. Cook until reduced to a syrupy consistency. Garnish each slice of cake with whipped cream and drizzle with syrup. — From Blake Van Roekel, inspired by Robert Reynolds’ Breton Cake

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know where your food is from one guy makes sure his pork comes from a humanely treated animal. he kills the pig himself. Story by CAMAS DAVIS

Photography by beth nAkAMurA

L 32

evi Cole has torn the right leg of his pants from just above the knee to just below his crotch. “Do you happen to have an extra pair of pants, Linda?” Cole asks, grinning. “I got in a little bit of a tangle with that there rooster.” That there rooster is now hanging by his feet from the top rack of Guy Weigold’s bright red pickup. “Dinner,” Cole says, pointing to his feathered opponent. “Coq au vin.” Cole, a kind of self-taught urban homesteader who makes his living as an emergency room nurse, and his friend Weigold, owner of the Farm Cafe in Portland, haven’t driven all the way out to Sandy just to bag a rooster, however. They’re here at Linda Burkett’s Pure Pork Farm to kill a 250-pound Yorkshire/Hampshire pig and turn it into bacon. Or rather, pancetta. And prosciutto. And guanciale. And pork chops. And sausage. “I’ve got pants. Come on, you can tell me how good of a job my housekeeper is doing,” Burkett says, as Cole goes to follow her down the treelined dirt road that leads from the pig barn to her home. While Burkett attends to Cole, the rest of us wait for the man with the knife to show up. Dave Strickland — Burkett calls him “Chief Dave” — owns a mobile slaughterhouse and spends his days travelling from farm to farm to do what most people have little to no interest in doing: shooting cows and pigs in the head, bleeding them, then skinning and evisceratMost people pack a knife ing them so that they can or two in their picnic basbe turned into meat for ket, for slicing cheese and sausages. But most the dinner table. people don’t pack a pisFor the past six years, tol, because most picnics Cole has bought his own aren’t planned around live pig, killed it himslaughtering a pig. Levi Cole is clearly not “most self and roasted it on a people” — he has slaughspit over hot coals for tered and butchered his his birthday. Since 2005, own pork for the last six Cole has also bought and years, a logical step toward his goal of what he calls creating a “closed loop” of sustainable food.

“the fIrSt yeAr I trIeD to kIll A PIg It wAS horrIble. … the whole thIng IS PeACeful now, At leASt for theM.” bartered for any edible, farm-raised (and sometimes wild) animals that he can get his hands on in order to fill his freezer with food he’s procured straight from the source. Robert Reynolds, a local cooking teacher and in many ways Cole’s culinary mentor for the past seven years, often refers to Cole as “the real deal, the genuine article.” Even that is perhaps an understatement. Cole’s intensive brand of farm-to-table eating means he’s got his hands in everything, literally. While he doesn’t own his farm — yet — he’s close with the farmers he buys from. Cole insists on killing his own pig, and he typically deals with all the details of slaughtering and butchering it himself, though this year, he’s decided he wants to see how someone like Chief Dave does it. Cole also raises his own bees for honey. He hunts for elk and deer each fall. He cans duck and rabbit rillettes, renders his own lard, and pickles and preserves produce from his garden. Cole is, for all intents and purposes, what many food-conscious people in Portland strive to be but aren’t quite sure how to become: a self-possessed, selftaught, culinary obsessive-compulsive cum urban homesteader with a stomach for killing his own dinner. He’s also quick to admit that he has little idea what he’s doing. “The first year I tried to kill a pig it was horrible,” Cole says, now dressed in a pair of Burkett’s dungarees. “Robert [Reynolds] told me that in France they just hang a pig up by its back feet and it falls asleep and they stab it in the neck. You hear these stories about how it’s supposed to go. In reality, it was one of the most traumatic experiences of my life when I stabbed it. I cut it too high, but its voice box was still attached. And there was this unbelievably high pitched squeal, that no one ever wants to hear, while it bled.” After a couple more years of trial and error, Cole perfected his method. “The whole thing is peaceful now, at least for them,” Cole says, gently massaging the pig’s cheeks. “It’s hard for us to watch. But now we give it a half rack of really good beer, I shoot it in the head, I bleed it out, and it’s a happy ending.” As he says this, Cole pours a Blue Moon Winter Ale into the mouth of the pig he is about to kill. There is some science behind Cole’s preferred method. After an animal has been slaughtered, the muscle cells continue to consume glycogen, the pig’s energy supply. During this process glycogen is converted to lactic acid, which in turn slows microbial spoilage and reduces the activity of enzymes. In other words, it’s the production of lactic acid that is so important to producing meat that’s flavorful and tender. If an animal is Cole’s day job is as a stressed out before or during slaughter nurse, so easing pain and its body uses up all its glycogen, and there anxiety is his profession. He keeps the pig calm by won’t be enough lactic acid, thus renderletting it get used to him, ing the meat dark and tough. feeding it some good Cole figures by feeding them beer (and beer as a tipsy treat, getting them used to the spot where they dispensing some friendly will be killed) he is not only relaxing the back-scratches and then swiftly dispatching the animal, but he’s also giving it more sugar, pig with a shot right between the ears.

which allows for higher levels of glycogen. “He sure loves his pigs,” Burkett says to me, sounding almost matronly, nodding toward Cole, who begins talking to his sated and presumably tipsy 250-pound Blue Butt, the common name for the Burkett’s Yorkshire/Hampshire breed mix. “Of course I do,” Cole says.

hispering sweet nothings into a pig’s ear is all good and fine, but killing a pig for meat means killing a pig for meat, and Cole has a job to do. Chief Dave finally arrives in his battered pickup, on top of which sits a somewhat haphazardly welded, camper-size meat locker with a winch. The Chief is shorter than I would have imagined a man who spends his days skinning 650-pound steers might be. I venture to guess he’s only slightly taller than the average length of a hanging side of beef. He wears a camouflage sweatshirt and matching hat, dark blue jeans and remarkably white tennis shoes. Judging by the look on his face, it’s clear that he’s not used to this many people bearing witness to 35 his work. “So how you want to do this?” Chief asks Cole. “I’m going to do the honors,” Levi says, pulling a pistol out of his pocket. Cole walks to the hay-lined stall where his pig has been sniffing around, settling in for several hours now. We all gravitate at different paces to this place in which the pig will die. Cole kneels next to it and scratches its back. We’ve grown silent, though the roosters and pigs in the barn with us seem Dave Strickland (left) brings restless. “They all know somehis mobile slaughterhouse to thing is up,” Burkett says. “They always know.” the farm and dispatches the Cole doesn’t draw the moment out. He lets the pig in about 30 minutes. Cole pig smell the gun so that it doesn’t scare her. takes just about everything, including head, liver and preAnd then he shoots her in the head, right cious leaf lard. between the ears. When you shoot a pig in the head, its nervous system sends out multiple signals all at once, causing the pig’s body to

Levi Cole works on half of the Yorkshire/Hampshire hog he shot two days earlier at a friend’s farm. He’s one of the growing ranks of food lovers who feel that taking responsibility for their food all the way down the line is the right way to live.

convulse. Cole holds the pig’s body down so that it doesn’t thrash into the walls of the barn. After she’s stopped moving, Chief Dave sticks a knife into her neck to bleed it. The sight of blood has never shocked me. Much more shocking is the sound it makes. I can hear it spilling out onto the sweet alfalfa beneath the pig’s body and am reminded of a story in John Berger’s “Pig Earth,” in which he describes a cow being slaughtered. After its throat is cut, Berger writes, “Life is liquid. The Chinese were wrong to believe that the essential was breath.” Chief Dave and Cole drag the pig by its legs toward the truck. In a mere five minutes, the Chief skins the entire pig while it’s still lying on the ground. Another 10 minutes, and he’s hung the pig by its back legs, sliced down its belly and eviscerated it. The entire process takes about 30 minutes and costs Cole and Weigold $50 on top of the $312 they will pay Burkett for the weight of the live pig. “Make sure you remind him to get the leaf fat for you,” Burkett says to Cole. Leaf fat, which lines the abdominal cavity and the kidneys, is prized because of its high lipid count and creamy consistency. The Chief gives Cole a suspicious look. “What are you going to do with it?” “I’m gonna make lard. And then I’m gonna make pies all year long, Daddio,” Cole says. “You’re keeping the hide and the head too?” Dave asks, looking at Cole sideways. “Is that uncommon, Dave?” Cole asks. “For white people, yeah.” “I’m not your average white guy,” Cole tells him. “I’ll take that heart and those kidneys too.”

t’s been two days since the slaughter, and the same group is gathered around a stainless steel worktable at the Robert Reynolds Chef Studio. Reynolds’ three students, Porter Wincuinas, Nick Passarella and Tagg Swift, all of whom witnessed the slaughter, are here to learn how to break down the pig from John Taboada, the owner of Navarre restaurant who, though self-taught also, butchers whole lambs and pigs on a regular basis. First, Cole sets the students to work on the liver and the head. “We’ll make pâté today out of the liver. I’ll make guanciale out of the cheeks. And I’ll crack open this head, take the brains out and put the entire thing in a stock pot and make posole.” Cole washes the liver under cold water and then

After 20 MInuteS, we’Ve extrACteD four loVely lIttle hAMS. “SolID work, kIDS. we Do thAt 400 More tIMeS AnD I thInk we’Ve got It.” gathers the students around him. He works on the parts of his pig using the same knowledge he relies on every day as a nurse. To explain how we should dissect the liver, Cole uses words such as “portal,” “vein” and “lipase,” “vena cava” and “common bile duct.” “This isn’t rocket science,” he keeps telling us. After preparing liver pâté and finishing off the head, we break for a lunch of meat, cheese and bread. Eventually, Taboada enters and immediately sets to work on Weigold’s half of the pig. Taboada takes a small paring knife and begins cutting the front and back legs away from the middle portion. “When the lion kills its prey, the first thing it eats is the tenderloin. The tenderloin is what I always take out first because it’s valuable, and you could accidentally cut it as you start working on other parts.” Taboada’s knife scrapes against bone. “Hear that? That’s what you want to hear when you’re butchering.” “In the United States there are something like 12 basic cuts on a pig,” Cole says. “In France there are 48.” “My friend in Italy keeps trying to get flank steak from his butchers,” Taboada says. “And they have no idea what he’s talking about. It’s different everywhere you go.” Cole asks the students what all of this has meant for them. Wincuinas puts it best. “I was in architecture as an undergraduate. And I understood, by looking at pictures and plans, what a building looked like. But there’s an experience of going into the building that’s completely different. That’s how I feel about this pig.”

evi’s to-do list for the weekend reads something like this: 1) Pig; 2) Rabbit rillette; 3) Duck confit; 4) Pear wine mash; 5) Kill roosters; 6) Render fat; 7) Make sausage; 8) Pancetta; 9) Start posole; 10) Cut soap 11) Order ½ beef from Larry; 12) Feed bees. The real deal, the genuine article. Right. I spend two more days with Cole in his North Portland home, breaking down the larger primal cuts that Taboada dissected Cole’s half into. I recently studied butchery in France for two months, and so Cole and I rely on our combined experiences, along with the pages of “Basic Butchering of Livestock and Game” by John J. Mettler Jr., and plain old intuition. With practice, Cole says his home butchering skills have improved, but he’s never gotten over the intenIt’s a fall ritual: Slaughter sity of killing animals. “I’m a nurse and I the hog, butcher it carefully spend a good percent of my time reversand then preserve the meat by making hams, bacon, ing people’s pain. I’m a lot better at that sausage and pâtés. Farm than killing pigs. Every time it’s a little families around the world horrific. The day it isn’t, I don’t think I have been doing this for should kill pigs anymore.” centuries, but for this group of urban locavores, it’s fairly new territory. A book on butchery stands in for a grandmother in an apron.

On the communal farm in Estacada where Cole grew up with nine adults and five kids, he remembers them raising and killing their own animals for food. “The first time I was part of killing an animal, my uncle told me to plug my ears. I was 6. He pulled out a pistol, shot a goat in the head and then hung the thing up and asked me to hold it for him. I gave it a big hug while he tied its feet.  To immerse I remember thinking, ‘Well, this is awful.’ But yourself more in this I don’t remember being freaked out by it.” story, experience our multi-media piece. Go to Weigold shows up to help us butcher the back leg of Cole’s pig. After 20 minutes, we’ve and click on FOOD TRENDS extracted four lovely little hams. “Solid work, kids. We do that 400 more times and I think we’ve got it,” Cole says. We’ve cut and vacuum-packed everything but the belly and the sausage meat. But there are still rabbits to process, and bees to feed 39 … and roosters to kill. After Cole puts a knife into its throat, the rooster continues to blink. I am reminded of a moment four days earlier, while we were all waiting for Chief Dave. I’d noticed a rooster standing on one leg, one eye closed, one eye open. “Ducks will line up in a pond on a log,” Cole told me. “All the ducks in the middle will be asleep, and the two ducks on the end have their outside eyes open, their inside eyes closed. They’re keeping watch. Their brains are half asleep, half awake. Chickens do something similar when they sleep. They stand on one leg and keep the other eye open.” I imagine all the carnivores in this country lined up like ducks. We’re all huddled in the middle, sleeping. Maybe Burkett or Chief Dave have taken up one end. Maybe Cole takes up the other. And as we sleep, they keep watch. They see. They know. They carry the weight of a certain reality for us. Cole sprays the rooster carcass with a hose. We dip the birds in boiling water. We pluck their feathers, remove their heads and feet and guts. Then we stick them in a pot of boiling water with onions and carrots. Cole holds up a glass of beer. “Here’s to dinner.” £

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Thank you for such beautiful pork

We bring you five recipes that show off the tasty beauty of this most obligingly versatile meat

Recipes by MATTHEW CARD Photography by MikE DAvis

Juniper-and-Bay-Brined Pork Roast (recipe on next page)

Ok, so now that we’ve found all these wonderful sources for pork, and we’ve met the lovingly raised pigs and had tea with them and everyone’s in agreement about the next step in the process, we’ve got to actually cook some of this pork, don’t we? And beautiful, honorable meat needs recipes of equal quality, which is why we’ve asked our supremely talented recipe developer Matthew Card to make us some pork dishes.  We’ve left the nose and the tail to more thrill-seeking cooks and are sticking to the parts that please everyone: loin, center-cut chops, tenderloin, country ribs and the almighty pork shoulder. Amen. And thank you, Pig, seriously.

Juniper-and-BayBrined Pork Roast PiCTuRED On PREviOus PAGE

MakeS 4 to 6 SeRvinGS

Look for a roast with a moderate amount of fat, which will help keep the meat moist as it roasts. serve with roasted potatoes and sauerkraut or braised red cabbage. 1 head garlic, separated into cloves 6 bay leaves 2 teaspoons dried juniper berries ¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon salt 4½ cups water (divided) 1 2- to 3-pound pork loin 1 tablespoon paprika 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper 42

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a food processor combine garlic, bay leaves, juniper berries, sugar, salt and ½ cup water; process until blended, about 1 minute. Transfer to large bowl and whisk in remaining 4 cups water. Add roast, fat side up, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 6 to 10 hours. Rinse well, pat dry and truss meat (tie crosswise every 2 inches with cooking twine). Mix paprika, black pepper and thyme in small bowl. Rub meat evenly with rub. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Add oil to oven-safe skillet and heat over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add roast and brown on all sides, 8 to 12 minutes. Transfer to oven and cook, turning every 5 minutes, until instant-read thermometer inserted into center of roast registers 130 degrees, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from oven, transfer to cutting board, and allow to rest, tented with foil, at least 10 minutes before slicing.

Pork Cutlet and Garlicky Rapini Sandwiches With Sharp Provolone

MakeS 4 SeRvinGS

if you can’t find rapini, you can use kale instead. While any pickled cherry pepper will do, sweet-hot Peppadew peppers are particularly good. A small skillet works well for preparing the cutlets: simply sandwich the meat between layers of plastic wrap and firmly pound the meat flat with the pan.

1 large bunch rapini, tough ends trimmed and rinsed well salt 1 pound pork tenderloin, cut into 4 equal pieces and each pounded 1 ⁄3 inch thick Freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) 4 medium cloves garlic, sliced thin Pinch crushed red pepper flakes 1 lemon, cut in half 4 to 6 ounces sharp provolone cheese, sliced thin 4 submarine sandwich buns or kaiser rolls 8 to 12 pickled cherry peppers, sliced thin

Bring large saucepan of water to boil. season liberally with salt and add rapini. Cook until stems are tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain and cool in cold water, gently squeeze dry; set aside. Generously season both sides of pork cutlets with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Position cutlets in pan without touching and cook until browned, about 2 minutes. Flip cutlets and cook second side until browned and meat is just cooked through, about 1½ minutes more. Transfer to plate. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to same skillet with garlic and hot pepper flakes. stirring frequently, cook until garlic is lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add rapini, toss to coat with garlic and oil, and cook until hot, about 1 minute. season generously with lemon juice. Divide cutlets among buns. Top with cheese, pile greens on top, and add pickled peppers. serve immediately.

thai-Style Pork Skewers and noodle Salad MakeS 4 to 6 SeRvinGS

Look for well-marbled pork chops with enough fat to keep the meat moist. While any fish sauce will do the job, i prefer Three Crabs Brand. You can cut the hydrated noodles, which will likely be quite long, into smaller pieces with kitchen shears. 3 cloves garlic ½ to ¾ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes or 1 fresh bird’s eye chile ½ cup lime juice, plus additional 2 limes, 1 cut in half and the other in wedges (divided) 5 tablespoons fish sauce 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1½ pounds boneless center-cut pork chops (about 4), fat trimmed and discarded; meat sliced crosswise into ¼- to 1⁄3 -inch-thick strips 7 ounces rice sticks or cellophane noodles 1 cucumber, peeled, split lengthwise, seeded and cut crosswise on the bias into ¼-inchthick slices 1 carrot, peeled and shaved (using a vegetable peeler) into long, thin strips ½ cup coarsely chopped fresh mint ½ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro ½ cup dry-roasted peanuts, chopped sriracha or sambal hot sauce for serving On a cutting board, mince together 43 garlic and red pepper flakes or fresh chile until reduced to a paste (alternatively, mash with mortar and pestle). Transfer to small bowl; add ½ cup lime juice, the fish sauce and sugar and whisk until blended. Transfer half of mixture to a gallon-size zip-top plastic bag (or bowl), add pork, and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours. Cover and refrigerate remaining dressing. Meanwhile, submerge noodles in boiling water and allow to sit until noodles are tender, about 20 to 30 minutes. Drain, transfer to large bowl and refrigerate. Thread meat onto metal or bamboo skewers (soak bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes beforehand), using 1 to 2 large pieces per skewer. Adjust oven rack to within 4 inches of broiler element and heat broiler. Place skewers on wire rack set above rimmed baking sheet. Broil until meat is lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip and cook second side until meat is just cooked through, about 3 minutes. While meat broils, toss together noodles with cucumber, carrot, mint and cilantro. Drizzle reserved dressing over top and toss to combine. Divide salad evenly among plates and top with kebabs. Drizzle any exuded meat juices over pork, garnish with chopped peanuts and serve immediately.

Pork Ragu MakeS aBout 4 quaRtS SauCe

serve this sauce over a chunky pasta, such as orechiette, rigatoni or penne rigate, or over polenta. The flavor of the ragu will improve after a day or three in the refrigerator. 2 to 3 pounds country-style pork ribs salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, minced 1 large carrot, peeled and minced 1 large fennel bulb, trimmed and minced 2 ounces pancetta, minced ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1½ teaspoons fennel seeds 8 cloves garlic, chopped, plus 1 clove minced (divided) ¼ cup tomato paste 1½ cups dry red wine, plus 1 tablespoon (divided) 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, puréed in food processor with juices 2 cups chicken broth 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary Pinch granulated sugar (if needed)

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 275 degrees. season ribs generously with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering and place ribs in single layer. Brown all sides, 12 to 15 minutes; transfer to plate. Add onion, carrot, fennel, pancetta, red pepper flakes and fennel seeds to Dutch oven and cook, stirring occasionally, until dramatically reduced in volume and browned, about 15 minutes. Add 8 chopped garlic cloves and the tomato paste; cook until fragrant and paste is darkened, about 1 minute. Add 1½ cups wine and cook until reduced by half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add tomatoes, chicken broth and reserved pork ribs; bring to a simmer and cover. Transfer to oven and cook until ribs are easily pierced with knife, 3 to 4 hours. Remove ribs and once cool enough to handle, pull meat into bite-sized pieces, discarding any pockets of fat and bones. Return meat to pot, add remaining clove of minced garlic, 1 tablespoon wine and the rosemary. Adjust seasoning to taste and serve.

Chipotle “Borrachos” With Braised Pork Shoulder MakeS 6 to 8 SeRvinGS

Borrachos literally translates to “drunken beans” and refers to the beer used to flavor them. Make sure to choose a lightflavored lager; ales will make the beans taste bitter. Piloncillo is a raw Mexican sugar sold bulk in hard cones at most Latin markets. The meat can be prepared up to 24 hours ahead. serve with flour tortillas or rice and sour cream. Pork: 2 teaspoons kosher salt 3 canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce 6 cloves garlic 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 teaspoons white vinegar 2 teaspoons ground piloncillo sugar or firmly packed brown sugar 2 to 3 pounds pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 2-inch cubes Beans: 1 pound dry pinto beans, rinsed, sorted and soaked overnight 4 cups water 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon dried epazote or oregano 1 bay leaf 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 small onion, minced 4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tablespoons ground piloncillo sugar or firmly packed brown sugar 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, well drained 12 ounces lager beer ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro 2 limes, cut in half To make pork: in a food processor combine salt, chiles, garlic, oil, vinegar and sugar; process until fully blended and smooth, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a large bowl, add meat and toss to coat. Refrigerate for at least 8 and up to 24 hours. To make beans: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 250 degrees. Drain beans and place in a Dutch oven with the 4 cups water, cumin, epazote, bay leaf, salt, onion, garlic and sugar. Bring to a simmer, cover and transfer to oven. Cook until beans are just tender, about 2 hours. Meanwhile, heat vegetable oil in large skillet over mediumhigh heat until shimmering. Add pork in a single layer and cook until well browned, stirring occasionally and scraping up any browned bits, about 8 minutes. Transfer meat to bowl. Add tomatoes and beer to same skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until beer is largely evaporated, 10 to 15 minutes. stir tomato mixture and reserved pork into beans, re-cover pot and return to oven. Cook meat until easily pierced with knife, 3 to 4 hours. Add cilantro and lime juice to taste, adjust seasoning, and serve. £

For some Portland food people, cooking is such an important part of their lives that they make it part of their bodies. By Erin Ergenbright Photography by Daniel Wakefield Pasley

Jason French of Ned Ludd displays some of his â&#x20AC;&#x153;gallery of culinaria.â&#x20AC;?

Jason French

tattoo transforms the body into a living document of indelible reminders: This is who I am, where I’ve been, what I belong to. For ancient Britons, tattoos could signify high status, identify members of a group or make a fashion statement. Women in ancient Egypt and preColumbian Chile and Peru used tattoos as protection during pregnancy and birth, and in Borneo, women tattooed symbols of their skills on their forearms. Though James Cook wasn’t the first European to be enamored of Polynesian tattoos, it was his 1796 expedition to Tahiti that brought the word tattoo — based on the islanders’ term “tatatau” or “tattau,” meaning to hit or strike — to the West. Tattoos became fashionable in Europe, especially among sailors and coal-miners — men in dangerous professions — who had anchors or miner’s lamps tattooed on their forearmsperhaps as amulets, and to identify themselves and each other. Within any culture, over centuries and decades, tattoos fall in and out of favor, go underground and resurface. Though always personal, tattoos also tell a culture’s collective story. In Portland, our narrative is about doing things our own way, especially in the food world. The many restaurants with open kitchens mean we can literally watch the process of our meals, and witness the craft and craftspeople who have put our city on America’s culinary map. And if you watch, you notice that many of these artisans are tattooed — with images of food, as well the tools used to make it. Unlike other kinds of craft that produce something you can keep, wear or live in, cooking doesn’t last. A meal is made so it can be consumed. Perhaps that’s one reason why we see so many tattoos: They’re permanent. And in an increasingly virtual world, these indelible statements on the canvas of one’s body hold an undeniable power and lasting beauty.

Ned Ludd chef and co-owner Jason French got his first food tattoos in New Mexico in the mid-’90s, but they’ve since been covered up. “I was getting a sleeve and needed more continuity,” he says. But perhaps that first garlic head wreath — his “first painful tattoo,” which he got because the artist was living in their house and wanted to work on French’s arms —led to the curator that French has become. The brightly colored sleeve in its place deals with samuri culture and elements of nature, and each detail means something very specific in terms of food, service, learning, practice. “The industry is service at its highest level, and if you can become an excellent servant, you’ll be awesome. But if you don’t want to serve people, you should

probably figure something else out, or if you think you’re somehow entitled, you’re kind of missing the point.” In contrast, French’s left arm is black and white and gray, “like a gallery of culinaria in antiquity,” he says. He loves old utensils, as they’re “very indicative of humanity and food clashing — like, how do we eat this thing?” He has a beautifully rendered absinthe spoon, an olive fork, an Enterprise Meat Grinder, which is an industry joke and an actual artifact he’d stolen years ago. There’s a tattoo of an old English breed of pig based on a wood block print from an 1883 handbook on pig breeding, and also a sturgeon, done by Jerry Ware at Atlas. “I love it because it’s such an ancient fish, and it’s very Northwest, too.”

Travis Ingle Like many Portland cooks, Travis Ingle has worked in many Portland kitchens — Savoy, Apizza Scholls, Gotham Tavern, Clyde Common and now Junior’s. His trade and its tools have influenced his tattoos. On his right shoulder, a knife deftly slices into a heart, marbled like a steak, above a dramatically inked banner that commands: Love the Knife. Below it, artist Cheyenne Sawyer tattooed a crown-wearing egg inside a corona of heavenly light, and the scroll held by imps reads: Born to Poach. The prompt for this tattoo came while making dandelion salad with wine-mulled poached eggs, candied walnuts and lardo at Gotham Tavern. Gotham shared kitchen space with Ripe’s Family Supper, and then-Family

Supper chef Troy McLarty noticed his poaching prowess. “I was doing about 20 poached eggs at a time,” Ingle says, “and Troy said, ‘Born to Poach should be your next tattoo.’ ” But Ingle does take the permanence of the form seriously. On his left bicep is Cheyenne Sawyer’s gorgeous rendering of a B-24 Liberator, to honor Ingle’s grandfather, who fought in World War II as part of an anti-submarine unit off the coast of Africa. And Ingle recently had a snake eating its tail tattooed on his elbow, to match the image his father had inked on his hand, in 1969, by the legendary artist Lyle Tuttle. Ingle wanted to get it in the same spot, but was warned away from getting a hand tattoo, since they still have a certain stigma, even in Portland.

Elizabeth Markham Formerly a bartender at Clyde Common, Yakuza and the Victory, Elizabeth Markham now divides her time between Beaker & Flask and Laurelhurst Market. Pale and willowy, she can seem like a demure 1930s starlet or free-spirited rocker-girl, and her tattoos reflect her range. She has Clyde Common’s cleaver logo on her wrist, a passage from Richard Bach’s “Illusions” on her ribs, and the apt descriptor Cheeky, which she decided on and got on a whim. But it’s her most recent addition — radish people inspired by a vintage seed packet for Globe cherry

radishes, and modified by Craig Brown of Historic Tattoo, that expresses her deep connection to food and her garden. “I had four different kinds of radishes in my garden this year,” Markham says. “They’re so pretty — so many shapes and colors.” And because radishes take only about four weeks to grow from seed to fruition, “they seem to have so much possibility,” she says. And in restaurants, French breakfast radishes are “one of the first things to signal that it’s finally springtime again.”

facing page, clockwise from top left: Jason French, Elizabeth Markham, Garrett Eagleton and travis ingle.

Garrett Eagleton Surviving in restaurants demands pride in the work itself, rather than in praise or recognition, and across Garrett Eagleton’s inner wrist is the first tattoo he got in Portland — the French phrase un ouvrier (which means a craftsman or a worker). He was inspired by George Orwell’s first novel of social commentary, “Down and Out in London and Paris.” He knew restaurant work would be central to his life, and even went to culinary school before ever cooking in a restaurant to see if he liked it. “But it worked out,” he said. “I don’t know why — I just knew I’d be in kitchens for a long time.” And like a sailor who gets a tattoo in every port, he has a tattoo (or two) for each restaurant in his past. “Even if I’m only there a year, I know I’ll learn a lot, and it will be a big part of my life,” he says. Since moving to Portland from Texas four years ago, Eagleton has worked in some

of Portland’s best-known kitchens — Clarklewis, Clyde Common, Le Pigeon, Lincoln, Simpatica and Lovely Hula Hands, — and each has inspired indelible symbols of the experience (with design elements that include a pig’s head, a pigeon, an eagle and a can of PBR). Besides signifying his culinary journey, many of Eagleton’s tattoos literally represent the tools of his craft: on his right pectoral is a 10-inch chef ’s knife (a Wüsthof) he’s had since he started cooking; below it is a French steel sauté pan with a blue kitchen towel over the handle, and a Texas-shaped steak grilling over a coal-filled tire rim. And then, in the middle of his chest, is a heart-shaped roast, bound in butcher’s twine. He’d noticed a roast in the walk-in at Clarklewis, and thought it looked cool, and also that it spoke to his life in the food industry. “It’s like my heart is tied up in this business,” he said. “This is my love.”

Lindsay Laughlin

Twenty years ago, when Lindsay was 6, her parents started The Fishwife in St. John’s. Her father was working as a seafood purveyor for the now-defunct Portland Fish Company, and her mother was the third generation of a restaurant family. Laughlin and her sister spent time during summers and weekends at The Fishwife, and though there was a TV in the back room, she always wanted to help. “I pretty much started working here as soon as I could,” she says. Now, after earning a degree in culinary arts from Clark College, apprenticing at Pix Patisserie and spending years in her family’s restaurant, Laughlin is manager, pastry chef and line cook at The Fishwife. And her commitment to her heritage and her craft is visible. An intricate tattoo of Dungeness crab, scallops, oysters and tiger prawns covers Laughlin’s left shoulder and upper arm. Her backpiece — featuring a mermaid, clipper ship and Greco-Roman style dolphin set against stylized waves, clouds and compass-like sun — is a tribute to The Fishwife,

and was also a gift to herself. Renowned Portland artist Jerry Ware did her backpiece (Laughlin and her younger sister met Ware when he “fixed” the flower tattoos they’d chosen in Hawaii a few years before), and the process took between 20 and 30 hours — a few hours a month for nearly a year. “After so many hours of being worked on, you really know the pain so well that you’re sort of over it,” Laughlin says. “Going into it I thought, ‘If I can handle this, I can handle just about anything.’ ” Laughlin’s mother, Sharon, who grew up working in her parents’ restaurant in Coos Bay, still does the bookkeeping. “Anything I need help with, she’s there,” Laughlin says. And though her mother “still isn’t so stoked when my sister and I show off our tattoos,” Laughlin says she does appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship of her daughters’ tattoos, some of which celebrate a livelihood that courses through the family bloodline. “She’s getting better,” Laughlin jokes. “She doesn’t cry so much anymore.”

this page: Lindsay Laughlin. facing page: top, Garrett Eagleton. Bottom, Vito DiLullo

Vito DiLullo Two hundred years before Christ, when Macedonian Greeks ruled Egypt, Pharaoh Ptolemy IV is said to have pledged his devotion to Dionysus with tattoos of ivy leaves. Soon Roman soldiers emulated this fashion, which spread across the Holy Roman Empire until Christian emperors banned the practice. Ten to 15 years ago, arm bands of green garlic, vegetables, herbs and fruit seemed to symbolize the same sort of statements among local cooks and chefs. Vito DiLullo met Paul Zenk 14 years ago when they worked together briefly in the kitchen of the legendary restaurant Zefiro. When they ran into each other a year later, Zenk had married Amanda Myers, the founder of Infinity Tattoo, and also started doing

tattoos. “He wanted to practice on me,” said DiLullo, who opened Ciao Vito in 2006. And though a tattoo wasn’t something he’d been thinking much about, he “wasn’t necessarily an unwilling participant. I was more like a canvas.” Zenk understood the tattoo had to have an organic place in DiLullo’s life, so he gave him an arm band of rosemary, basil, chives, garlic and oregano — DiLullo has an extensive garden — and later added fall leaves and grapes. Thirteen years later, the tattoo still seems a good choice. And its simple beauty now seems a precursor to the less literal, wilder and wider variety of food tattoos that are now a staple of Portland’s restaurant kitchens.

Lisa Higgins Sweetpea Bakery owner Lisa Higgins got her first tattoo at 18 — a little falling star on her back. Now, that star has become beets and kale over a little banner announcing Leap Before You Sour (a translation of an Italian maxim), and Higgins’ vegan bakery business is five years old and booming. Sweetpea is just down the sidewalk from Scapegoat, Portland’s only vegan tattoo parlor, but even before Higgins became a vegan, she always knew she wanted a lot of tattoos. And she has a lot, including a pair of winter mittens around her neck, a sleeve of Northwest elements, designed by Jerry Ware to look like architectural drawings, and a cluster of images in homage to Ferdinand, the bull who preferred smelling the flowers over fighting. But it’s the brightly colored, pastry-based mural on her lower leg that reveals her sense of humor and perseverance, as well as her medium. Higgins told Brian Wilson at Scapegoat she wanted pastries for a tattoo, and “then it just got out of control,” she says. “We would say, ‘We can do two gingerbread men fighting with icing, or we can do a blueberry swinging in a doughnut held up by a licorice string’… we went on and on. It’s really silly.” There are also ice cream cones, a doughnut going down a slide, strawberries, a pineapple and muffins. £ this page: Lisa higgins, top and bottom

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ONe dish, three wiNes

[ Invite a semi-obscure European to take you for a great dinner ] f you’ve been a regular reader of MIX since the beginning, you might be accustomed to our SELECTS column, where we identify the best wines in a single category. This month — and in future alternating months — we’ve decided to stop being so exhaustive — it’s exhausting! So instead of sitting down and tasting through 25 wines, we’re giving our palates a rest and letting other people do the heavy lifting. The result is you’ll learn more about the elusive but gratifying skill of pairing wine and food. First, we commissioned MIX contributor Matthew Card to design a compelling use for

some of the season’s fresh ingredients. He chose to combine cauliflower, scallops, garlic and capers in a main dish that looks delicious to eat but is difficult to match with a wine. Then we asked three of our favorite wine experts what they’d drink alongside a dish that improbably brings cruciferous vegetables, shellfish and bagna cauda together with fresh pasta. Great mouths think alike: All three recommended semi-obscure European whites marked by acidity, minerality and a briny quality. Here are their picks, all of which bring out the best in our winter dish while transporting our palates to the seaside in the springtime.

rECIpE by MATTHEw CArd STory by KATHErInE CoLE pHoToGrApHy by MIKE dAvIS

ONe dish, three wiNes cONt. THE dISH: Free-Form Lasagna with roasted Cauliflower, Scallops and bagna Cauda

THE CHALLEnGE: How to highlight sweet, delicate scallops while balancing briny capers and anchovies, lemony acidity and the ever-so-slightly sulfury cauliflower.

THE wInES:

2008 Eric Chevalier Fié Gris Vin de Pays ($24) To find a wine to “cleanse and lift the palate” from the weight of the oily bagna cauda, Gaironn poole looked to her favorite region, France’s Loire valley, and landed on the high-toned fié gris, with its lively notes of lime and melon, as a good fit. poole describes this antique French grape as a fuller, less-sinewy version of its descendant, sauvignon blanc, and thus a good white for winter sipping. Sourced from the western Loire, it’s got a briny quality that hints at the nearby Atlantic ocean. To best appreciate this hard-to-find gem, advises poole, don’t overchill it.

2008 Domaine Sigalas Santorini Asirtiko/ Athiri ($19) (a blend of 75 percent asirtiko and 25 percent athiri) The Mediterranean flavor of our recipe got Michael Alberty thinking about “crisp dry Greek white wines” such as an assyrtiko (spellings differ in our Latin alphabet) from the best producer on Santorini, that picturesque isle in the Cyclades where the Aegean meets the Sea of Crete. “besides the fact that it’s bone-dry, it has a touch of earthiness to it which would complement the cauliflower. The citrus would match well with the sweetness of the scallops, and it has a really nice minerality,” Alberty says of his pick. “but the key is a little note of salinity — a muscadet-like quality, a hint of fresh sea breeze — that would be a perfect complement for this dish.” 2008 Marotti Campi “Luzano” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico ($13.50) “verdicchio is a classic varietal of Le Marche,” explains Amanda prock. Her pick comes from the Castelli di Jesi district of that central Italian region near the Adriatic coast. prock praises the Luzano’s nutty, floral and citrus-spice notes, calling it “sexy, rustic and unique.” Zesty acidity, a medium body and minerality make this oldschool Italian white a natural fit for the oily texture of our pasta dish. “It goes fantastically well with seafood,” she adds. And boasting the lowest price and widest availability of our three picks, this is a wine to keep on hand for every-evening sipping.

THE EXpErTS: Gaironn poole, wine curator, bruce Carey restaurants (bluehour, Clarklewis, saucebox, 23Hoyt), brucecareyrestaurants.com Michael Alberty, owner, Storyteller wine Co., storytellerwine.com Amanda prock, owner, Lupa: A wine bar & Cafe, www.lupawine.com

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Free-Form Lasagna with roasted Cauliflower, Scallops and bagna Cauda

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Timing is important to the success of this dish, so plan accordingly and have everything ready. Pastaworks’ fresh pasta is sold at both locations, and several other Portland markets; Cucina Fresca brand fresh pasta is another good option.

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¼ cup unsalted butter (½ stick) 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) 4 large cloves garlic, minced 5 oil-packed anchovies, drained and minced 4 sprigs thyme Floor to Ceiling Windows provide Water & City Views. Viking & Electrolux Appliances. Hardwood Flooring. Central AC. Balconies for Entertaining. Controlled Access Parking. Fitness Club w/Steam Room. 24 Hour Concierge. Very Pet Friendly.

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1 pound large sea scallops, patted dry ¼ cup large capers, rinsed and patted dry

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In small saucepan combine butter, 3 tablespoons olive oil, garlic, anchovies, thyme and bay leaf. Cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until flavors have blended and garlic is quite soft, 15 to 20 minutes; keep warm. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. In large saucepan bring 4 quarts water to boil. Toss cauliflower with remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Spread in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until bottom is well browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Flip and cook second side until cauliflower is just tender, 5 to 7 minutes longer. Keep warm. Heat vegetable oil in large skillet over high heat until shimmering. Season scallops abundantly with salt and pepper; place in skillet without touching and scatter capers in pan. Cook scallops, without moving, until browned, about 1½ to 2 minutes. Turn scallops over, remove pan from heat, and spritz liberally with juice from the halved lemon. Once scallops have been turned, salt the water in saucepan liberally, add noodles and cook until tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain, transfer to large bowl and toss with sauce. Divide pasta among 4 shallow bowls, draping sheets like a rumpled handkerchief. Tuck cauliflower, scallops and capers in folds of pasta, garnish with parsley, and serve immediately with lemon wedges. — From Matthew Card

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good cheese [ La Mariposa Chubut ]

S By TAMi PARR

ome say there are no new cheeses in the world, only evolving versions of the archetypes, most of which began in the caves and creameries of the Old World — think cheddar, gouda, Roquefort and all their offspring. Time and terroir transform all cheeses in innumerable ways, making each cheese a unique local product no matter how far away or ancient its roots. Here in Oregon, one of our new homegrown artisan cheeses has such European ancestors, but it’s arrived here by a less typical route, beginning in the Old World but stopping off in South America before being recast here in the spirit of the Pacific Northwest. Just call Oregon the cheese melting pot.

Oregon may not have as many cheeses as France does (between 340 and 1,000, depending on whether you ask Winston Churchill or Wikipedia), but we’re getting more every day. Mariano Battro of La Mariposa has recently contributed a lovely addition, with his Chubut, an aged cow’s milk cheese inspired by the cheeses of his family’s dairy back in Argentina. PHOTOgRAPHy By TORSTEN kJELLSTRANd

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Name: Chubut milk: Cow, from Lochmead dairy in Junction City age aNd look: Aged about a month in small, 1-pound wheels Flavor: Mild but buttery-rich with just a bit of pleasant tartness; very approachable eat with: Local honey or chutney driNk with: Libations on the lighter side of the flavor spectrum, like wheat beers or pale ales; on the wine side try a buttery chardonnay. why we like this cheese: it’s a history book; take one bite and transport yourself around the globe.

La Mariposa Chubut While you might be inclined to associate Argentina more with beef than cheese, Mariano Battro of La Mariposa comes to cheesemaking by way of his family’s Argentinean creamery. And his debut cheese — Chubut — has made its way to Oregon from Argentina with a heavy dose of Welsh influence, just to mix things up even more. during the 19th century, Welsh settlers migrated to Argentina and established themselves in Patagonia, in the province now called Chubut. The settlers founded the first creamery cooperative in 1885, and the area became known for its characteristic Chubut cheese. According to Battro, the region once boasted dozens of creameries; today, however, he says Oregon is one of only two

places left in the world making this historic cheese — the other is made by Mariano’s father, Pablo, at the family’s current creamery, La Suerte, in Argentina. Battro found Oregon thanks to wife Savannah Laney de Battro, an Oregon native who met Mariano while she was an exchange student in Argentina. “Ever since i came to the U.S. in 2005, my goal has been to start my own cheese business,” he says. Now, several years later, he’s been busy making cheese for Fraga Farm while simultaneously starting his own operation last year. He named his company La Mariposa (The Butterfly) after his father’s first cheesemaking operation back home in Argentina. £

For where to buy, see shop, Page 72

pubcrawl

[ They make a number of very good beers ]

By JOhn FOySTOn / phOTOGrAphy By rOSS wILLIAM hAMILTOn

hen you go to the tasting room of Upright Brewing some Saturday or Sunday afternoon — and you really should — you won’t find the brewpub-standard golden, pale and India pale ales, and the porters and stouts that we Beervanians know so well. Instead, the taps of this yearold brewery in the basement of the Left Bank Building are labeled with beer names such as Four, Five, Six and Seven and seem as inscrutable as a Thelonius Monk progression. Owner-brewer Alex Ganum is a serious jazz fan — and Zappa fan, which amounts to the same thing — and named the brewery in honor of stand-up bass player Charles Mingus.

Upright Brewing Co. wants things simple, from their basement brewery to the way they name their beers: “The oldschool minimalism of just numbers really appeals to me,” says owner-brewer Alex Ganum. Annalou Vincent serves at their Left Bank Building brewery and tasting room, Saturdays and Sundays only. Cash and checks only. Simple.

pubcrawl cont.

There’s a reason for those numbers, he said. In the old days of local breweries, beers were sometimes identified only by a numbered cap indicating the beer’s starting gravity. Ganum believes there’s enough slick marketing in this world without him adding to it. “I don’t think you need to run a small business like a big one, with your logo plastered on everything,” he said. “I’m really kind of overwhelmed with all the branded products out there, and the old-school minimalism of just numbers really appeals to me.” Overwhelmed, perhaps, but already building a reputation for bold, well-made beers in the Belgian and French farmhouse styles, with a distinct northwest twist. here are the Upright beers by the number: Four: A light, tart wheat beer that nearly qualifies as a session beer (a drinkable, low-alcohol beer) at 4.5 percent alcohol, because Ganum firmly believes that a beer doesn’t have to be big or extreme to have lots of flavor. Five: A farmhouse pale ale that Ganum says is his most rustic, with lots of malt flavor and bitterness. 5.5 percent alcohol. Six: A dark rye ale that Ganum calls his darkest and most layered beer: lots of caramel notes plus exotic fruit and stone fruit from the saison yeast. 6.75 percent alcohol. Seven: A strong saison made with only northwest ingredients — Ganum strongly believes that farmhouse ales should use local ingredients, and uses only Oregongrown hops from Mount Angel and Great western base malts, which are malted across the river in Vancouver. Seven is very aromatic, with bright citric flavors and 8 percent alcohol. And some of the beers do have names: the winter seasonal is called Billy the Mountain Strong Ale; there’s the amazing, herbaceous Flora Rustica with yarrow, calendula and some hops; there’s a German-style Gose; and an oyster stout — yet to be officially named — that includes oyster nectar and oysters boiled in the

kettle . . . and later eaten by the brewers. Like many a great brewer, Ganum, 29, started as a cook, and he’s as likely to talk about cheese and charcuterie on the Upright Brewing blog as he is about what’s brewing. he moved to portland several years ago from Michigan, attended classes at western Culinary Institute and started home-brewing, which he instantly took to. he’s got classic home-brewer stories, like when he brewed a pilsner in his duplex in January and had to leave it under a perpetually open window to maintain the right temperature, despite protests of visiting friends. Then he had to move the keg to the refrigerator, which it handily filled. “I could store food only in the door of the refrigerator for a month or so,” Ganum said. when it came time for his internship, the cooking school folks OK’d a couple of months in Cooperstown, n.y., at Brewery Ommegang, which specializes in bottle-conditioned Belgian-style ales. “I learned a ton there,” said Ganum. “Most important, I learned that I loved commercial brewing as much as I hoped I would.” he moved back to portland and signed on with BJ’s, which was then brewing at its Jantzen Beach and Lloyd Center restaurants, and worked there until December 2006. “Lloyd Center was great, because we had a 3½-barrel system, and you can sell that much of anything, so we made some good, unusual beers. And we ran Jantzen Beach’s 15-barrel (about 450 gallons) system just

as hard as we could, which was good experience. I think one year we brewed 2,500 barrels on that system.” when he left, he knew he wanted to open his own place. “I spent a lot of time thinking about it,” he said, “but the idea of a pub was just overwhelming — I’m a brewer, not a businessman.” So he started to focus on a production brewery specializing in farmhouse-style beers. Those plans got a boost when he happened upon a woman who was looking for tenants for the historic Left Bank Building, which was undergoing extensive renovation. “I’d known of this building for years, and I loved it.” he said, “then we started looking through it and realized the brewery could go anywhere.” The landlord was happy to have a brewery in the basement, and Ganum soon had an intern of his own in Gerritt Ill, who went on the payroll last summer after some months of volunteer labor. “people ask us if we’re crazy starting another brewery in portland,” he said as we sipped beers in the tasting room, amid oak casks of conditioning beers and stacked cases of Upright beers in champagne-style bottles. “I just tell them, look around — there are a lot of brewers, but there are also a lot of bars and pubs and beer drinkers.” Upright Brewing Co. 240 N. Broadway 503-735-5337 Tasting room open 1 to 6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Cash and checks only. £

Eat hErE / SiStErS, orEgon

don’t be in such a hurry to get to Bend. slow down and give some time to the town of sisters. you’ll find you can eat and drink very well, whether you’re hungry for a sloppy barbecue sandwich or white-tablecloth fare.

or decades, we’ve viewed sisters as a destination for crafters (sisters Outdoor Quilt show, anyone?) and as a coffee pit stop en route to Bend. But we’ve never thought of the sleepy mountain town as a place for real food. seems we’ve been wrong. today a hungry traveler can be pleasantly surprised, and nourished, by a fine dining bistro, a brewpub, an upscale coffee shop and a wine bar, all tucked amid the ponderosa pines, along with the local bakery and spots serving the requisite pulled pork sandwiches and elk steaks you’d expect in central Oregon. seems that sisters has become a city escape where you can eat quite well for days. By ashley gartland phOtOgraphy By tOrsten kjellstrand

Eat hErE / SiStErS, orEgon cont.

Jen’s garden

cork cellars Wine Bar & Bottle Shop Four years ago, chef t.r. McCrystal and his wife, jen, relocated to sisters to trade the “fray of the big city” for a small, community-driven hometown. sisters didn’t have fray and it also didn’t have fine dining, so the McCrystals transformed a cozy brick-red cottage into a 28-seat bistro, Jen’s Garden, complete with seasonal prix-fixe menu and candlelit dining room. despite the white tablecloth setting, jen’s is unpretentious; McCrystal will pull up a chair and chat with guests while they enjoy southern French-influenced dishes such as an herb-crusted rack of lamb served with a huckleberry-anise sauce or a divine pear and almond

tart. the five-course menu — also available a la carte — is a steal at $49, or $69 with wines. In the non-white-tablecloth department is Slick’s Que Co., a texas-style barbecue joint where the staff rattles off their spiel as quickly as an auctioneer calling out bids. Worth listening for: a burnt ends sandwich or, in their words, “the high-end sloppy joe of this barbecue kingdom.” the barbecue master douses meat from the justcrisped end of the brisket with special sauce and slaps it on a squishy white bun; you gather the fixings, extra sauce and cups of potato salad and coleslaw. the presentation isn’t so artful (the view is a service station parking lot), but slick’s indoor

Sisters coffee company picnic tables, country Western decor and homestyle fare might be just what you want in a post-ski-trip hangout. across the street from slick’s is a famous spot folks always mentioned in the same breath as sisters, the shrine of all things sweet known as Sisters Bakery. push through the creaky purple front door and you’ll face pastry cases stocked with frosted cake doughnuts, slabs of crumb-topped coffee cake and fistsized cupcakes crowned with snowy frosting and miniature plastic skiers whipping around pint-sized pine trees. the comfortable prices are easy to stomach — the caloric damage, only if you dare. the breakfast scene is more

polished at the 20-year-old Sisters Coffee Company coffeehouse. the owners operated the shop and roastery in a small cabin on hood avenue until 2005, when they built a two-story lodge with a river rock fireplace, leather couches and mounted animal heads decorating the log walls. the decor is woodsy, but the clack of laptop keys and moms cajoling mischievous toddlers make the scene familiar for city-dwelling coffee hounds. For drinks of a different sort, the town’s got two decent options: Cork Cellars Wine Bar & Bottle Shop and the newish Three Creeks Brewing. at Cork, snack on plates of cornichons, crackers and cheese

Romance the one you love with delectable Oregon treats like Pinot Noir ﬁlled Bon Bons and of course, Henry Estate’s award winning wines. There’s still time! Visit our website or call today!

Henry Estate Winery 1-800-782-2686 www.henryestate.com

three creeks Brewery

• Great Selections of Winter Seasonal Ale •

Sno cap Drive in

• Heated Outdoor Seating • • Coming Soon: Liquor and our 22 oz. bottles of beer •

(better picks than the subpar sandwiches and salads) and sip glasses of wine from the 18plus bottle list. Weekly tastings and live music events prove lively as locals slide onto bar seats to sample a themed flight or listen, with a glass of syrah in hand, to local musicians. Beer lovers should retreat to the outskirts of town, where Three Creeks Brewery has taken up residence at sisters’ version of sunriver — Fivepine lodge. during the summer, scores of tourists flood the brewpub and bar, but winter sees a shift to a local crowd that arrives at the family-friendly brewpub

and adjacent bar, thirsty for “northwest beers with attitude” such as the pub’s light, sassy knotty Blonde ale. not everything notable in sisters is new, either. at the opposite end of downtown, the Sno Cap Drive In is a town landmark made famous by old-fashioned hamburgers and straw-clogging milkshakes made from homemade ice cream. settle in with the classic combo at a red Formica table and experience something sisters has done well all along: this tiny shake shack serves mountain food of the best sort.

832 N. Beech (a ( t Mi Miss ssis ss issi is sipp si ppi) pp i)) • 503.281.7708

A great place for friends and family to meet for breakfast, lunch, dinner, dessert and drinks. www.reedvillecafe.com 503.649.4643 Our emphasis is on fresh Northwest ingredients, uniquely prepared and tastefully presented. www.reedvillecatering.com 503.642.9898 LOCATED AT SOUTHEAST TUALATIN VALLEY HIGHWAY AND CORNELIUS PASS ROAD IN HILLSBORO

Eat hErE / SiStErS, orEgon cont. SIMPLY ELEGANT GIFTS Valentine’s Day February 14th

DOWNTOWN

503.223.9510 PORTLAND AIRPORT

503.284.9929

W W W. T H E R E A L M O T H E R G O O S E . C O M

Sisters essentials Between your morning coffee and prix-fixe dinner, sisters’ small downtown and numerous outdoor excursions nearby offer plenty to explore at your leisure. here are a few activities to sneak in.

The Fly Fisher’s Place Whether you need advice on where to cast your line or an experienced guide to lead a private lesson on the Crooked river, this laid-back fly-fishing shop caters to your needs. (flyfishersplace.com)

~ NW Wine Bar ~ Wine By The ~ Glass ~ Taste ~ ~ Bottle ~ Case ~ Fine Northwest Wines Open 7 days a week Sun – Thurs 12-8pm Fri & Sat 12-10pm 503.435.1295 326 N. Davis St. McMinnville OR 97128

Private Functions & Events

Hoodoo just 20 miles northwest of sisters, this small-scale resort has five ski lifts, maintained nordic trails and an autobahn tube park (fun for those who don’t ski). On Fridays and saturdays, take advantage of the resort’s extended hours and get in a few runs of night skiing. (hoodoo.com)

Cascade Avenue a stroll through sisters’ Western-themed downtown feels like a trip back to the 1880s. Bypass the cheesy souvenir shops and poke your head into antique shops, Westernthemed stores, small art galleries and shops such as the stitchin post, which attracts quilters from miles around. Sisters Movie House Unlike nearby Bend, sisters has no McMenamins. But it does have this brewpub-style theater on the Fivepine campus. Catch screenings of current films in the four-screen theater and dine on panini and pizza inside the theater. note that you have to consume beer and wine in the cafe before settling into the show. (sistersmoviehouse.com) £

scene

Romantic Dinner for 2 Valentines Day!

our picks for what to eat where

Live Music

RSVP 503.477.7335

1406 SW Broadway Downtown Portland www.greathallrestaurant.com

Scottish Public House • Portland’s largest selection of single malt whiskies • Traditional Scottish fare including unforgettable ﬁsh & chips • Meet friends for a pint in one of our cozy rooms 201 S. 2nd St. @ Hwy 99E,

Oregon City, OR 97045

MetroVino CoMPILED BY Grant Butler CoNTrIBuTorS Grant Butler Karen Brooks Teri Gelber Seth Lorinczi Christina Melander roger Porter Naomi Kaufman Price Shawn Vitt Amy Wang Michael C. Zusman

Romance! Romance!

Whether it’s Valentine’s Day or a big date night, these dining rooms keep love in the air. Castagna 1752 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-231-7373 castagnarestaurant.com Young, forward-thinking chef Matthew Lightner has taken over the stove at a 10-year-old restaurant that has avoided modern innovation. Instead of the customary meat, fish or poultry with greens and a starch on the side, Lightner offers innovative vegetable-centered plates. Dishes draw discreetly from the bag of high-tech tricks he learned while cooking at Mugaritz, one of Spain’s top avant-garde kitchens. A typical dish that broadcasts the new regime: matsutake mushrooms quickly cooked on a high-temperature griddle called a plancha,

Get more of the Portland scene, at mixPdx.com

paired with pine nuts and garlic and served in aromatic herbal broth, with more of the intensely aromatic matsutake shaved over the top. The menu changes aren’t the only thing that’s different here. The once austere setting has been given some much-needed color, turning a dining room that felt a tad clinical into one of the most intimate around. Departure Restaurant and Lounge 525 S.W. Morrison St. 503-802-5370 departureportland.com This new dining room — on top of downtown’s Macy’s and The Nines hotel — is not just a Pan-Asian restaurant and cocktail scene. It’s a new planet — ultramodernistic, echoing ocean liners from the 1930s, maybe even spaceships out of “Flash Gordon.” The place is filled with throngs of Beautiful People, so you head back to the west-facing bar (and if the weather cooperates, its outdoor deck) with its strikingly unfamiliar cityscape, distant mountains and another crush of glitterati. Nearly every inch PHoToGrAPH BY ABBY METTY

503-723-6789 www.highlandstillhouse.com

Rick’s Wholesale Antiques European Antique furniture. Stained glass imported from England. Open 7 days, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. 780 3rd Street (at Hwy 99W) Lafayette next to the School House Antique Mall

503-864-2120

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scene of this 9,000-square-foot production designed by local firm Skylab Architecture is provocative, even thrilling, with jazzy elegance. The menu is inspired by Japanese pubs, street food from Beijing and Seoul. Some dishes lack that authenticity and border on bland, while others are delicious, like hamachi sashimi sprinkled with truffle oil, or a latticework mound of calamari tempura, finished in a reduced red pepper cream from Korea that imparts a deep crimson patina to the delicate coating.

Kir 22 N.E. Seventh Ave. 503-232-3063 kirwinebar.com This tiny gem of a wine bar brings a welcome dose of joie de vivre to the east side. More Parisian than Portland, the intimate candlelit nook provides well-priced, mostly European wines and simple, tasty snacks. owner-cook Amalie roberts puts her low-key, chic touch on every aspect of Kir, and her time abroad shows in a feel for Provençal flavors. The wine list is solid and inexpensive ($5-$10 a glass), but not huge. Then again, nothing at Kir is large, from the bar itself to the postage-stamp kitchen equipped with a toaster, crockpot and hot plate. Sit in the west-facing front windows and glimpse the sun setting behind the Steel Bridge while sipping a bright, minerally rosé. MetroVino 1139 N.W. 11th Ave. 503-517-7778 metrovinopdx.com Chef Gregory Denton’s biography on MetroVino’s Web site doesn’t mention his previous job. understandably so: He was sous chef at the little-lamented Lucier, the most overpriced and underwhelming restaurant in Portland’s history, which closed to few regrets. Not his fault whatsoever. That he quickly sprang back with a new enterprise, where he is executive chef, suggests plenty of spirit, but that his new place is one of the best restaurants to open in this city in a long while is cause for celebration. MetroVino features Portland’s largest Enomatic machine, a gorgeous, temperature-controlled walled case behind the bar counter containing 80-some bottles of wine, all available for tastes and by the glass. This means you can get almost the entire wine list in glasssized pours, allowing an infinite

The Country Cat number of wine and food pairings. The cuisine is eclectic, with accents from Asia, France, Spain and Italy. But if the offerings taken together lack geographic focus, each item is beautifully conceived and astutely prepared.

Hearty flavors

Forget all about those New Year’s resolutions at these rich, wonderful comfort zones.

Bunk Sandwiches 621 S.E. Morrison St. 503-477-9515 bunksandwiches.com Love hurts; ain’t it the truth? To get an incredible deal — swoon-worthy sandwiches made to order by a top Portland talent — means a little suffering: waiting in line on a gritty sidewalk; limited seating, some of it staring at stacked boxes. And abandon all hope for food that is diet-happy. Bunk is, pure and simple, a Guy Zone: rugged, with full-on flavors and portions big enough for a man and his horse. And that runs from the ham-stacked Po’ Boy with green tomato pickles to a hulking Parmesan Meatball Hero. These old-school classics and new-school alliances come from star chef Tommy Habetz, who walked away from the swanky set to open this sandwich shop last fall with culinary pal Nick Wood. What does Habetz bring to the sandwich board? Years of experience, a great palate and deep heat for flavorintensive meats and marinades. The Country Cat 7937 S.E. Stark St. 503-408-1414 thecountrycat.net A Cubist drawing of a feline graces the signage of this Montavilla neighborhood spot. Perched on his haunches, he’s grounded and modern — a befitting icon for the comfortable vibe and 21st-century Southern cooking at Adam Sappington’s joint. Sappington fries up a mean mess of chicken, with a crisp crust and moist

meat. But the first bite reveals the upgrades: This is a boneless bird, for easier eating, and a drizzle of maple syrup adds a pleasant sweetness. Whether grilling or frying, these touches help Country Cat contend for the best home-style cooking in town. The flavors and retro-modern atmosphere respect the neighborhood’s working-class roots, without going overboard on the Americana thing. Sit a spell at one of the many comfortable wooden booths; the attentive tattooed servers may not call you “Hon,” but they won’t rush your chatting and chewing. Laurelhurst Market 3155 E. Burnside St. 503-206-3099 laurelhurstmarket.com A couple of years ago, the owners of Laurelhurst Market might have opened just another eastside bohemian storefront. After all, these scrappy butcher boys perfected the art of the small at Simpatica Dining Hall, known for all-out expressions of comfort-food love, weekend hours only and lines out the door. But for their debut as a full-on restaurant in late spring, they gave us something different: Portland’s first indie-modern steakhouse. Instead of lavish steakhouse theater, the mode is neighborhood friendly but casually polished, from the butcher counter up front to the bustling, boot-strapping dining room. For experimenters, the teeny back bar is a lab for forward-thinking, he-man cocktails. The killer dish is the 12-Hour Smoked Wagyu Brisket, a brick-sized monster, dry-rubbed and smoked until excruciatingly tender. This is the pinnacle of Laurelhurst Market: gutsy, confident, point-of-view cooking, and you wish the kitchen rode this bull all the time. Screen Door 2337 E. Burnside St. 503-542-0880 screendoorrestaurant.com PHoToGrAPH BY DouG BEGHTEL

G R E A T

Escapes

scene Screen Door offers plenty for someone nostalgic for the cuisine of the piney woods of Georgia or the back alleys of Tuscaloosa. Biscuits from the oven, ham on the grill and maple syrup warming in a pan are a powerful perfume at Screen Door, priming customers’ appetites. With a weekend-only brunch menu long on comforts such as praline bacon, malted waffles and fluffy egg scrambles (breakfast mains: $6.95-$11.95), it’s no surprise that the place is always packed. The crowds don’t taper off the rest of the day, thanks to fine Southern brisket, pulled pork and weekly changing organic sides like green garlic corn cakes with chowchow.

On the cheap Places where stretching your dollars is easy — and tasty.

Bete-Lukas 2504 S.E. 50th Ave. 503-477-8778 bete-lukas.com In a genre not typically known for elegance — typically, Ethiopian table service doesn’t include utensils — Bete-Lukas is a real standout, marrying a delicate take on traditional dishes with an assured presentation (the maitre d’ and sous chef are, in fact, married). Thus the restaurant pulls off a neat trick, working as a gentle introduction for newcomers to this fascinating cuisine and as an inspired refresher for jaded palates. With its linen-covered tables and distinctive cooking, this is a rare treat — and as upscale as Ethiopian restaurants get in these parts. Much of the menu is hearty proteins such as siga wot (beef stew spiced with berbere, an indigenous spice blend, $12) and kitfo, an unusual and luxuriant take on steak tartare seasoned with cardamom and chili and served with fresh cottage cheese ($13). But owing in part to the influence of the Ethiopian orthodox Church, the cuisine is particularly strong in vegetarian dishes. The Energy Bar 1431 S.W. Park Ave. 503-227-3574 For all their loveliness, the South Park Blocks are nearly bereft of good lunch spots. Places rely on the easy sells: coffee, pizza, hot dogs. The lack of chic sidewalk cafes selling good sandwiches, soups and salads is a mystery. one of the few inspired options is the Energy Bar,

one of the last places in Portland serving juices freshly squeezed on the spot. The sandwich menu covers a range of tastes: all-American turkey and cranberry; Middle Eastern hummus and falafel; vegan-happy vegetables with smoked tofu (whole $6.95, half $4.95). Don’t overlook that last one, even though it’s built on ordinary supermarket wheat bread — the crunch of the vegetables contrasts nicely with the smooth slivers of tofu. Mekong Grill 7952 S.E. 13th Ave. 503-808-9092 Mekong Grill might not be the latest Vietnamese hot spot on Sellwood’s restaurant row but, after three years, it still holds its own. opened in fall 2006, the corner eatery has a local fan club that comes religiously for the well-priced, authentic noodle and rice dishes. Start with fresh plump salad rolls ($3.50-$3.75) filled with soft noodles and bean sprouts and tofu or shrimp, with a plum peanut dipping sauce. Salads ($7.50) are a generous helping of crisp vegetables and herbs with sesame ginger vinaigrette, topped with grilled meats or tofu. Deep bowls of vermicelli noodles ($7.25-$8.25) come with piles of fresh raw herbs, carrots, daikon, cucumber and nuoc cham (typical sauce) to toss with, and a choice of grilled pork, lemongrass chicken, Vietnamese sausage, tofu, garlic shrimp or egg rolls. The Observatory 8115 S.E. Stark St. 503-445-6284 theobservatorypdx.com If you haven’t been to the Montavilla neighborhood in the last few years, you’ve missed out on the amazing transformation of once-gritty Southeast Stark Street, which now is one of the coolest dining strips in the area, with Ya Hala, Country Cat and Bipartisan Cafe calling it home. New on the scene is this cozy restaurant and bar, with dark walls, candlelight and starburst lighting that evoke celestial wonders. The real stars here, though, are the prices, with plenty of tempting starters and entrees ringing in under $10. Seafood looms large, with a terrific starter of calamari ($7) with lemon aioli and mussels steamed in ginger sake ($9), and there’s always a seafood salad, heavy with ingredients such as trout, smoked salmon or bay shrimp.

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Luxury Condominium Hotel

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Easy to Get To. Hard to Leave. One hour east of Portland. Finest accommodations in the Gorge. Perfect for a romantic getaway. Amazing view. New condos, gourmet kitchens, wifi and fireplaces. Old world elegance & charm. Winetasting, windsports, skiing Y more. Call today for Valentines Packages.

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Parkers Waffles & Coffee

Treasured Memories

hiGh five Waffles Lightning-hot irons can transform simple batter into crispy, deep-pocketed perfection. Whether drizzled with fresh maple syrup, dusted with powdered sugar or topped with something unusual, these Portland waffles are worth digging into. By GrANT BuTLEr

Give her your heart all over again...

704 NW 21st & Irving Portland, Oregon Open at 5 p.m. Mon. thru Sat.

KATHLEEN’S OF DUBLIN 737 SW SALMON ST • PORTLAND, OR

503-224-4869

w w w. K a t h l e e n s o f D u b l i n . c o m

For reservations phone 503-226-6126 fax 503-274-7122 www.lucystable.com Pairing Wine and Dinner Tuesdays and Wednesdays No Reservations Required

February is for Romancing and Relaxing by the River! ♥ 3-course Valentine’s Dinner $35/person. ♥ Sunday Brunch Starts on the 21st! for menu and reservations: www.aquarivaportland.com

Come experience the new SPA at the Avalon 503-802-5900 Host your next event in style. Waterfront rooms are perfect for weddings, meetings and more! more about spa and banquets at www.avalonhotelandspa.com

0470 SW Hamilton Ct., Portland, OR 97239 503-802-5850

Chocolate-dipped waffle at Bread & Ink Cafe’s Waffle Window: rejoice! This waffle spot, which used to be open only on weekends, is now a daily operation, so you can snare the addictive chocolate-dipped waffle anytime you’re feeling a case of the weekday droops. A basic Liège waffle, which is sweeter and chewier than a traditional Belgian waffle, is dusted with pearl sugar, then dunked in Guittard chocolate, which melts into the waffle’s divots, creating a delicious cross between breakfast and dessert that’s a steal at just $2.50. 3610 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-239-4756 wafflewindow.com MB9 at FlavourSpot: A vacant lot at the southern end of North Mississippi Avenue’s revitalized shopping and dining district is home of the second (and larger) FlavourSpot waffle wagon, and it’s here that the smell of freshly brewed drip coffee and browning waffles gets your a.m. pulse racing. The star is a thin, crisp American-style waffle that’s slathered with maple butter, then folded around three strips of smoked bacon and six pieces of Canadian bacon, meant to be eaten like a burrito. A calorie and fat-gram splurge, to be sure, but a delicious once-ina-while treat. Corner of North Fremont Street and Mississippi Avenue 503-282-9866 flavourspot.com Waffles and gravy at Parkers Waffles & Coffee: Check out the sandwich-board specials at this terrific food cart near Portland State university, and you’re sure to find some seasonal treats, like a waffle topped with barbecued beef brisket in the summertime or an oktoberfest sausage waffle sandwich in the fall. owners Scott and Abbie Trimble, who love to talk food both in person or via Twitter, make PHoToGrAPH BY JAMIE FrANCIS

everything from scratch, including a waffle interpretation of the breakfast classic biscuits and gravy. Two thick waffles are ladled with thick, creamy gravy that’s studded with bits of spicy pork sausage. It’s available weekdays anytime between 7 a.m. and 2 p.m. — though if you order it for lunch it may inspire an afternoon nap. Southwest Fourth Avenue and College Street 503-780-5363 parkerswaffles.com Corn meal waffle at The Red and Black Cafe: This worker-owned and operated cafe mixes politics with its cooking, so you can nosh while thumbing through a copy of the autobiography of Abbie Hoffman, who once said, “Sacred cows make the tastiest hamburger.” You won’t find any burgers on the vegan menu, but every morning you’ll find a rustic cornmeal waffle, which proves you don’t always need eggs and buttermilk for a perfect batter. The surface of the finished waffle remains crisp to the last bite — even when slathered with Earth Balance spread and doused in maple syrup. If sweet’s not your thing, try them with avocado slices and zesty salsa. 400 S.E. 12th Ave. 503-231-3899 myspace.com/redandblackcafe Falafel waffle at Tiger’s Cafe: Nothing good can come out of dishes with rhyming names, right? Truth is, the falafel waffle is a pretty delicious concept. Lebanese falafel batter is put onto a hot iron until it’s dark brown and crispy — and much less greasy than falafel that are deep fried. Then it’s topped with lettuce, tomato slices and a drizzling of tahini. The flavor combination of the nutty chickpeas, tangy tomato and ground sesame seeds dances on the palate. 2045 S.E. Belmont St. 503-239-1887 tigerscafe.com £

Discover North Portland’s ﬁnest

Italian eatery and cocktail spot... Now accepting reservations for Valentine’s Day 4 Course Prix Fixe Dinner

Featuring: Seasonal Menu Specials Gluten Free & Vegan Options Happy Hour All Day Tuesday House Infused Vodkas We ♥ supporting local farms

8225 North Denver Avenue Portland, Oregon 503.286.2100 pizzaﬁno.com

When your passion is pizza

8 YEARS OF EAST COAST STYLE PIZZA ON ALBERTA >k][ IWbWZi L[]Wd Ib_Y[i I[WiedWb FWj_e

8[[h M_d[ :W_bo >Wffo >ekh IjWYYWje =[bWje

2934 NE Alberta Street ÇÊ`>ÞÃÊ>ÊÜii Ê££> £ä« ÊÊUÊÊxäÎ ÓnÓ äÈää www.bellafacciapizzeria.com

Sweetheart’s Adventure

A flight for two overflying the beautiful Chehalem Valley Wine Country, to one of the local Wineries, 45 min. of tasting, includes a box of chocolate and a bottle of Pinot Noir. All tasting fees included - $460

We’ve gathered some names and numbers of places to find the good stuff in this issue. The products may also be available from other local stores and online sources.

PRECISION Helicopters, Inc.

1-800-55GOFLY

www.flyprecision.com

operations@flyprecision.com

23 MIXMAsTER

Retail:

Where to Drink or Buy

Tenth Avenue Liquor Store 925 S.W. 10th Ave. 503-227-3391 Uptown Shopping Center Liquor 1 N.W. 23rd Place 503-227-0338 Rose City Liquor Store 7333 N.E. Fremont St. 503-284-7591 Milwaukie Liquor Store 10804 S.E. Oak St. 503-654-9020

Whiskey bars and restaurants:

Foode for th People

La Bonita Pre-Order Tamales 1 Dozen = $20 7 days a week 10-10

2839 NE Alberta • 503.281.3662

Late Night Food

*Open until 4am Fri. & Sat.

shop

SW 6th at Oak 503.546.2666 www.originaldinerant.com Great Wines, The Best Prices

Wine Xing Over 800 Wines!

25977 SW Canyon Creek Rd. Wilsonville

Urban Farmer (Eighth floor, Meier & Frank Building) 525 S.W. Morrison St. 503-222-4900 Beaker & Flask 727 S.E. Washington St. 503-235-8180 North 45 Pub 517 N.W. 21st Ave. 504-248-6317 Paddy’s Bar & Grill 65 S.W. Yamhill St. 503-224-5626 Ten 01 1001 N.W. Couch St. 503-226-3463 Paragon Restaurant & Bar 1309 N.W. Hoyt St. 503-833-5060 Red Star Tavern 503 S.W. Alder St. 503-222-0005 Kells Irish Restaurant & Pub 112 S.W. Second Ave. 503-227-4057 Clyde Common 1014 S.W. Stark St. 503-228-3333 The Victory Bar 3652 S.E. Division Highland Still House 201 S. Second St. Oregon City 503-723-6789 Park Kitchen 422 N.W. Eighth Ave. 503-223-7275

(Near Costco) 503.582.8355 WineXing.com

Exquisite Ornaments and the Best in Plush Animals Bring in this ad and receive a free ornament. “Bamboo”

118 NW 23rd • Portland 503-223-4048 1-800-223-5886 FAX 503-225-5892 www.christmasatthezoo.com

Now’s your chance to get MORE OF MIX. We’ve expanded to 10 issues a year! Get them all, for just$19.95, by subscribing at MIXPDX.COM or calling 503221-8240.

31 KNOW WHERE YOUR FOOD IS FROM Author Camas Davis’ list of local sources for ethically raised meat: Direct from farms: Pure Pork Linda Burkett HiddenOffice@yahoo.com 503-201-8471 Afton Field Farm 3375 S.W. 53rd St. Corvallis (delivers to Portland) 503-738-0127 aftonfieldfarm.com Tails & Trotters 503-680-7697 tailsandtrotters.com Deck Family Farm 25362 High Pass Road Junction City (delivers to Portland) 541-998-4697 deckfamilyfarm.com Portland Meat Collective A traveling butchery school and clearinghouse of Oregon meat CSAs (launching in early 2010) pdxmeat.com 503-347-5540

Butcher shops: Pastaworks 3735 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-232-1010 pastaworks.com CHOP Butchery & Charcuterie 735 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-221-3007 chopbutchery.com Laurelhurst Market 3155 E. Burnside 503-206-3099 laurelhurstmarket.com

55 ONE DISH/ THREE WINES 2008 Eric Chevalier Fié Gris Vin de Pays ($24) Elephants Delicatessen 115 N.W. 22nd Ave. 503-299-6304 E&R Wine Shop 6141 S.W. Macadam Ave. 503-246-6101 2008 Domaine Sigalas Santorini Asirtiko/Athiri ($19) Fred Meyer Hawthorne 3805 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-872-3300 Fred Meyer Raleigh Hills 7700 S.W. Beaverton Hillsdale Highway 503-203-4008 Mt. Tabor Fine Wines 4316 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-235-4444 Pastaworks City Market 735 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-221-3002 Pastaworks City Market 3735 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-232-1010 Pastaworks City Market 4216 N. Mississippi Ave. 503-445-1303 Storyteller Wine Co. 5511 S.W. Hood Ave. 503-206-7029 Zupan’s Burnside 2340 W. Burnside St. 503-497-1088

2008 Marotti Campi “Luzano” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico ($13.50) Barbur World Foods 9845 S.W. Barbur Blvd. 503-244-0670 Fred Meyer Hawthorne 3805 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-872-3300 Fred Meyer Northwest Best 100 N.W. 20th Ave. 503-721-4133 John’s Marketplace 3535 S.W. Multnomah Blvd. 503-244-2617 Lamb’s Garden Home Thriftway Marketplace 7410 S.W. Oleson Road 503-244-9061 Lamb’s Palisades Thriftway Marketplace 1377 S.W. McVey Ave. Lake Oswego 503-636-2213 Liner & Elsen 2222 N.W. Quimby St. 503-241-WINE Lupa Wine 3955 N. Mississippi Ave. 503-287-5872 New Seasons Markets (multiple locations) Strohecker’s 2855 S.W. Patton Road 503-223-7391 Vino Vixens 2929 Southeast Powell Blvd. 503-231-8466 Whole Foods Markets (multiple locations)

59 GOOD CHEESE Look for La Mariposa at: Food Front Cooperative Grocery 2375 N.W. Thurman St. 503-222-5658 Market of Choice 8502 S.W. Terwilliger Blvd. 503-892-7331 Market of Choice 5639 Hood St. West Linn 503-594-2901 Steve’s Cheese 2321 N.W. Thurman St. 503-222-6014

Five amazing nights. Five local charities. And youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll deďŹ nitely taste more than ďŹ ve exceptional winesâ&#x20AC;Ś Join us for a week of wine working wonders, where proceeds beneďŹ t the Classic Wines Auction and its beneďŹ ting charities: Metropolitan Family Service New Avenues for Youth s Friends of the Children, Portland Trillium Family Services s YWCA Clark County

Walla Walla Wineries at Ten 01: Portland Monday, March 1, 2010

Sample wines from over 24 wineries, meet winemakers and heighten your awareness of Walla Wallaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world-renowned wines. Ten 01 Restaurant, 1001 NW Couch St., Portland Evening starts at 5:30 p.m. Individual tickets: $45.00 Tickets at wallawallawine.com or call 509-526-3117.

Classic Wines Auction Winemaker Dinner Series Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday, March 2, 3 and Mix and mingle with award-winning winemakers and chefs from Oregon, Washington and California in intimate settings throughout the Portland-area. Evenings start at 6:30 p.m. Individual tickets: $150.00 Please see our line-up at classicwinesauction.com.

Classic Wines Auction Saturday, March

PRESENTED BY

One of the top ďŹ ve charity wine auctions in the United States according to Wine Spectator magazine. Oregon Convention Center, Portland Ballroom Evening starts at 5:00 p.m. Individual tickets start at: $750.00

Call 503-972-0194 for ticket availability.

Located in Portland, Oregon, the Classic Wines Auction, Inc., is a nonproďŹ t organization dedicated to producing the Classic Wines Auction and related food and wine events to raise funds for local charities beneďŹ ting children and families. CWA has raised over $21.6 million for Portland-area charities since its inception in 1982. Contact us at 503-972-0194 or classicwinesauction.com.