MIX Magazine February 2011 by Mix Magazine

February F ebruarry ’11 11 Portland’s Portla and s M Magazine agazine e of F Food ood + Drink

Cracker craft Big-deal nano-brews Trufﬂe treats Coffee + booze = cheers Saying “meatless” in Italian

Global meals to warm our February souls

FEBRUARY 2011

$4.99

COMPLIMENTARY ISSUE OF MIX Want to subscribe? Go to MIXPDX.COM or see the subscription card inside for details

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editor’s note We published the first issue of MIX in September 2007. For the first couple of years we produced six issues a year, then we couldn’t contain ourselves and bumped it up to 10 issues a year. It’s now February 2011, so by my calculation, that’s 26 issues. That may not sound like so many, but nonetheless, I think I need a drink. So with this issue, I’m signing off as editor, handing my blue pencil (that’s an anachronistic reference, just for fun) to Danielle Centoni, a good friend and super-able editor who will carry on into 2011 and beyond. The coverage in MIX will continue to embrace the tastiest bits of Portland and will keep evolving to reflect the best of what’s going on now. Danielle will love to hear from you, so please send her your ideas and comments at dcentoni@oregonian.com. Do you know what this means? This means that I can enjoy the magazine the way it’s meant to be enjoyed, not as a bundle of encroaching deadlines, marked-up proof pages, canvas totes full of photo props, mysterious w’s appearing in the middle of text on a page PHOTOGRAPH BY BeTH NAKAMURA

(ahem), perplexing recipe tests, cases of halfempty wine bottles growing fragrant in the trunk of my Jetta. All fun things, don’t get me wrong, but now I can be like you: “Oh, look at that magazine,” I’ll say, then I’ll pick it up, turn the pages, look at the cool photos, read the articles. Go out to eat, or stay in and cook. Shop, think, compare, disagree, dream, know, share. All the things we like to do with food and drink in Portland. Being editor of MIX has been so fun that if I think too hard about leaving, I may start to cry. But honestly, my philosophy in life is to leave the party while you’re having the most fun, so your memories are always sweet. I have other things I need to do in life, and it’s time to go do them, and they’ll be fun, too. But until then, I’m having a martini — up, really dry, stirred. Care to join me?

Martha Holmberg, editor mix.martha.holmberg@gmail.com

Allow us to dazzle you with an heirloom jewelry collection of exquisite proportion and a nice bit of history to go with it.

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fEBRUARy ’11 >

They don’t look hung over, do they? Tanna TenHoopen Delinsky and Jeremy Garb make food that helps those who are, at their food cart Wolf & Bears at Southeast 20th and Morrison. / PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS

24 fRIDAy NIGHT

DINNER PARTy What meat? Winter’s vegetables offer savory satisfaction for everyone.

32 CUISINES Of

CONSEQUENCE Every culture has a dish that cures what ails you, even when you’ve only been high on life.

40 CRACKER CRAfT

Baking a batch of homemade crackers — plus dips, of course — is an afternoon of delicious DIY.

IN EvERy ISSUE 13 STARTERS Monthly macarons, new St. Jack, polenta comfort.

19 WALKABOUT An excursion to Bridgeport Village.

47 GOOD CHEESE Luscious goat cheese truffles.

 51 ONE DISH/

THREE WINES Bottles that embrace brussels sprouts. 55 MIXMASTER Wake up and smell the coffee cocktails.

59 PUB CRAWL The rise of the nano-brewery. 63 SCENE What to eat where.

ON THE COVER: Israeli eggs will wake you up (Page 32). PHOTO BY MIKE DAVIS

MIX is 10 issues a year! It’s easy to subscribe online — go to MIXPDX.COM and click on “subscribe.” you can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixpdx.com, so get clicking and start eating.

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FREE LEATHER UPGRADE* contributors

with purchase of any Stressless® furniture

February 4 - March 20 Savings of $100 - $700 per seat. See sales associate for complete details. THE INNOVATORS OF COMFORT™

Deena Prichep is a freelance print and radio journalist based in Southeast Portland. Her stories on topics ranging from urban agriculture to gefilte fish have appeared on or in “The Splendid Table,” NPR’s “Morning Edition,” NPR’s “Weekend Edition,” The Environment Report, Salon.com, The Northwest News Network, The Oregonian, Culinate and Portland Monthly. Her cooking experiments are chronicled on mostlyfoodstuffs.blogspot.com. Her topic here? Hangover cures. Page 32.

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OTHER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS/ILLUSTRATORS benJaMIn brInK, brIan Feulner, JaMIe FranCIS Steven gIbbonS, roSS wIllIaM haMIlton, tIM labarge, beth naKaMura, Motoya naKaMura, ranDy l. raSMuSSen

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Now a freelance writer/oil painter and occasional motorcycle mechanic and fabricator, John Foyston in previous careers has cared for 1,000 rhesus monkeys, played in rock ’n’ roll bands, washed dishes at the fanciest supper club in Janesville, Wisc., owned a motorcycle shop, built computers, restored motorcycles and more. At The Oregonian, he was a music critic for years and a features writer until he took a buyout in December 2009. He started writing about Oregon beer almost 20 years ago when he pointed out in an editorial meeting that to write about Portland, beer should be a regular topic. Everyone else in the room — wine drinkers and mojito swillers all — said, “Fine. You do it.” So he did, which was his entree into the fine community of Oregon brewers, publicans and beer fans, whom he’s privileged and honored to write about and share the odd pint with. This month, John writes about nanobreweries. Page 59.

OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS grant butler, Matthew CarD, DanIelle CentonI, KatherIne Cole, terI gelber, taMI Parr

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Mike Davis makes pictures of life as it happens. That often involves making pictures of people creating, and loving, food that just happens to be gorgeous. And he loves making those pictures — no small benefit is sampling the outcome and sharing in the spirit of the making. Mike has called Oregon home for several years now, after working at the White House, National Geographic magazine and several of the country’s leading newspapers. He has earned all kinds of honors, including picture editor of the year a couple of times. But this making of pictures of life here in this amazing state is the ultimate of endeavors. See his work on hangover cures, Page 32.

Contributor Ivy Manning made do with a ’40s era bungalow kitchen for two cookbooks before taking the plunge this fall with a full gut and remodel of her kitchen/office. Her favorite detail of the new digs? “A hole in the wall. We knocked out the dividing wall between the dining room and kitchen and now I can cook and be part of the party, no more feeling like hired help!” When she’s not cooking for friends, Manning is working on her third cookbook and stories for magazines and The Oregonian’s FOODday. See her piece on an Italian-style winter feast on Page 24.

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gregory Vajda’s

Dvorˇ ák

Sun Feb 20, 2011 | 7:30 pm Mon Feb 21, 2011 | 8 pm Gregory Vajda, conductor • Jennifer Koh, violin double delights: we showcase our resident conductor as composer as well as conductor, and audience favorite Jennifer Koh returns to play two works for violin and orchestra. Vajda: duevoe • Barber: Violin Concerto • Bartok: rhapsody no. 1 for Violin & orchestra Dvorˇák: Symphony no. 7

Tickets start at $20

VOLUME 5 / ISSUE 1

mixpdx.com MARTHA HOLMBERG / EDITOR

mix.martha.holmberg@gmail.com LINDA SHANKWEILER / CREATIVE DIRECTOR

lshankweiler@oregonian.com REED DARMON / DESIGNER

rdarmon@oregonian.com

LINDA FAUS / RECIPE TESTER WALLY BENSON, AMY REIFENRATH / COPY EDITORS ADVERTISING STEvE URBAN / MIX ADVERTISING MANAGER surban@oregonian.com, 503-221-8314 JOSEpH GORDON / SENIOR RESEARCh ANALYST jgordon@oregonian.com JUDY ROOKS / MARkETING MANAGER jrooks@oregonian.com, 503-221-8397 DENICE WILLIAMS / RETAIL ADVERTISING MANAGER dwilliams@oregonian.com, 503-221-8514 DEBI WALERY / GENERAL ADVERTISING MANAGER dwalery@oregonian.com, 503-221-8302 RYAN COURTNEY / AUTO, REAL ESTATE ADVERTISING MANAGER rcourtney@oregonian.com, 503-221-8329 CHUCK SpITTAL / PRODUCTION COORDINATOR cspittal@oregonian.com, 503-294-4110 TO ADVERTISE BRYAN pALMER / MEDIA CONSULTANT

bpalmer@oregonian.com 503-294-4131

thomas lauderdale

Plays Grieg

Sat Feb 26, 2011 | 7:30 pm Sun Feb 27, 2011 | 2 pm Mon Feb 28, 2011 | 8 pm

TO SUBSCRIBE: GO TO MIXpDX.COM OR CALL 503-221-8240 OR wRITE OREGONIAN pUBLISHING COMpANY

Attn: Circulation Dept./MIX Magazine 1320 S.w. Broadway, Portland, OR 97201 CIRCULATION hOT LINE 503-221-8240 A publication of Oregonian Publishing Co.

Alondra de la Parra, conductor • Thomas Lauderdale, piano Pink Martini’s leader returns to his classical roots, and is joined by a young Mexican conductor fast making a name for herself across north america. Stravinsky: four norwegian Moods Schubert: Symphony no. 5 • Grieg: Piano Concerto Márquez: danzón no. 2

Sp on So red b y

Tickets start at $25

call: 503-228-1353 click: orSymphony.org Ticket office: 923 SW Washington

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your calendar! Spend the ďŹ rst weekend in March celebrating wonderful Oregon chocolate products! The annual OREGON CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a weekend long event will take place at the Ashland Springs Hotel and many other locations throughout downtown Ashland between March 4th and 6th, 2011. Festival tickets $20. Festival attractions will include: Chocolate & Art Gallery Walk organized by the Ashland Gallery Association - Friday, 5 - 8pm. Enjoy diverse forms of art, local wines and chocolates. A great prelude to the weekend long chocolate extravaganza. Chocolate & Wine Tasting Event at Science Works - Friday evening (extra fee) Chocolate Makerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dinner - Friday, 6:30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 9pm. David Georgeson, the Executive Chef at Larks restaurant will present a delightful four-course dinner utilizing chocolate in each dish. $49 inclusive. Reservations online! Tastings - Over 30 Oregon chocolatiers present their products and tease your palate with fantastic and surprising ďŹ&#x201A;avors! Saturday & Sunday 11- 3pm at the hotel. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Science of Chocolateâ&#x20AC;? Kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; event at the ScienceWorks Hands on Museum Saturday afternoon. Other festival events: Baking & cooking classes; Chocolate Product Competition, Seminars & Talks. Chocolate discount at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Chocolate & theatre! Call OSF box 11! ofďŹ ce, mention â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;chocolateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and receive 50% discount for the shows on March 4-6, 2011! To purchase tickets to the Oregon Chocolate Festival contact Hotel at 888-795-4545. Oregon Chocolate Festival Overnight Package starts at only $189 tl For more information or to reserve Chocolate Makerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dinner visit: www.AshlandSpringsHotel.com

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Stoller_half page MIX winter.indd 1

1/11/11 10:21:27 AM

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starters Page 14: Monthly macarons, biscotti mania, fat cocoa Page 16: Neat notes, true ice wine Page 18: Ode to polenta

out to eat RestauRant st. Jack

Eh, bien, mes amis. Who’s up for escargot? You’ll find them (inside puff pastry) and plenty more bistro food at the new st. Jack. PHOTOGRAPH BY BRiAn fEulnER

Meatloaf? so yesterday, and by the way, move over, mac and cheese. Bone marrow and escargot are the nouvelle vague. That’s the word from Restaurant st. Jack’s chef, Aaron Barnett, anyway. “french cooking is the next comfort food: heartfelt, rich and soul-soothing.” The Canadian expat felt this shift a couple of years back and dreamed of his own french restaurant. so when restaurateurfrancophile Kurt Huffman (Chefstable) got word, smoke billowed, and, faster than you can say steak frites, they frenchified a dilapidated 120-year-old house on southeast Clinton street into an elegant patisserie and restaurant. Egg-yolk-colored doors mark the way into the petite tavern decked out in all the iconic fixtures of a scaleddown bistro or lyonnaise bouchon: cafe tables, zinc bar, mirrors and chalkboards. st. Jack’s is cozy-familiar-french meets anti-pretension Portland, just right for the hippiehipster neighborhood. 13 start your day at the window-lined patisserie where Alissa Rozos’ (formerly of Bluehour and Daniel in nYC) buttery beauties line the counter — ham-gruyère croissants, pains au raisin, espresso macarons and tartes au citron ($2 to $4). for dinner, Barnett’s traditional lyonnaise dishes are made more delicious using local goods such as Ancient Heritage cheese and Olympic Provisions saucisson. This season’s country fare includes snails in puff pastry, fisherman’s stew, boudin noir with roasted apples, and coq au bière (chicken cooked in local ale). Just-out-of-theoven madeleines or tarte tatin make a grande finale, so don’t skip dessert. And do drink the wine. sommelier Joel Gunderson has a list worth exploring. His barrel and bulk program helps forge relationships with local and french vintners, keeping glass pours less pricey and more fun ($6 to $12), just as they do in france. st. Jack’s is the best of both worlds: Vive la france, vive l’Oregon. — TERi GElBER

Restaurant st. Jack, 2039 s.E. Clinton st., 503-360-1281

starterscONt.

to do

February

FEB. 4-5

Cracked crab, for charity The Oregon Convention Center becomes a two-day wonderland of all things seafood with the Portland seafood & Wine Festival. Part of the proceeds benefit the Oregon Chapter of the national Ms society. metroproductions.net/ seafoodandwine

FEB. 10-26

Dinner and a movie on a global scale Before seeing that three-hour Estonian bedroom drama at the 34th Portland International Film Festival, hit one of the interesting ethnic eateries nearby to fuel up. May we suggest spicy East india Co., the Euro-influenced Grüner or meat-centric Brazil Grill? nwfilm.org eastindiacopdx.com 14 grunerpdx.com brazilgrillrestaurant.com

FEB. 14

The most/least romantic day of the year Make dinner reservations early — or risk dining alone at Chez Chipotle.

see our suggestions for dining out on Valentine’s Day / Page 68 FEB. 16

Flip out! it’s shrove Tuesday, aka International Pancake Day, when some people in England and Kansas race with pancakes, flipping them into the air at the beginning and end. in that spirit, head to Oregon hotcake headquarters, The Original Pancake House, where international options include the famous Dutch Baby, swedish and Hawaiian pancakes, and something called “The Tahitian Maiden’s Dream.” originalpancakehouse.com

MOre tO dO

Sweet subscription This time last year, Jessie smith (left, in photograph) had a dream, a business grant from Mercy Corps and a nascent baking business keeping her up until 4 a.m. (after working her three day jobs). now, she’s a full-time baker about to bust out of her southeast Portland kitchen, has hired on high school friend nicole Trueblood as a partner and will deliver breathtaking Parisian macarons to your door. smith is the founder (or, as she prefers, “sugar mama”) of Confectionery. she’s selftaught and has built a following at farmers markets with infused caramels, inventive cupcakes and adorably wee candied apples. But macarons quickly became the favorite. This year smith added them to Confection Club, a subscription service where she’ll deliver a dozen macarons to your door every month for $15. This is a phenomenally good deal. smith, a painter, finds inspiration from concepts and color schemes, as well as seasonal herbs and berries. Her “sunny” macaron brings warmth to April with rich sunflower seed butter playing off the slightly grassy herbal notes of chamomile flowers, and July’s “frilly” riffed on the complementary colors of purple and green to discover the natural affinity between pistachio and lavender. next up for March: “Maritime” pairs luscious coconut cream with a bright hint of lime. — DEEnA PRiCHEP

Confectionerypdx.com PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA nAKAMuRA

read this NOw aNd theN get cOOkiNg “Biscotti: Recipes from the Kitchen of the American Academy in Rome” is like an italian vacation that you can bake in your oven. The precious collection of mostly italian cookie recipes is gathered and perfected by Chez Panisse alumnae Mona Talbott, with baker Mirella Misenti. in this tiny tome, you’ll find the typical twice-baked cantucci di prato, a barely sweet, hard biscotti meant for dipping. Other recipes show off the spices, nuts and aromatics of italy in bite-size morsels. Biscotti lucia are redolent of sicily, with almonds and lemon zest. But don’t be surprised by interlopers like the Anzac cookie contributed by an Australian ambassador’s chef, made with oats and coconut. And despite my son’s addiction to snickerdoodles, i’d opt for a batch of pinolatti, light and crisp and rolled in toasted pine nuts. Biscotti: Recipes from the ingredient lists are short, with Kitchen of the American simple instructions and Academy in Rome (Mona stunning color photos. now Talbott and Mirella Misenti, turn on that oven and mangia The little Bookroom, $18.95, bene! — TERi GElBER 136 pages)

Richer but cheaper it used to be there were two choices when it came to cocoa powder: natural and Dutch process. But ever-obsessed Penzeys spices offers a third category for your consideration: high-fat. The company says the cocoa powder, which comes both natural and Dutched, is twice as rich as supermarket brands, yet it’s also close to half the price. it makes the silkiest, most decadent hot chocolate, the deadliest brownies and is just the thing to coat your V-Day truffles. — DAniEllE CEnTOni $7.50 to $8.50 a pound. Penzeys Spices, 120 N.W. 10th Ave., 503-227-6777; 11322 S.E. 82nd Ave., 503-653-7779; penzeys.com

Portland Spirit Events Portland Spirit Presents Ken Davenport’s

The Awesome 80’s Prom is a brand new blast-from-the-past interactive production set at Wanaget High’s Senior Prom....in 1989! All the best characters from your favorite 80’s movies are there and they are all competing from Prom King and Queen. So, tease up your hair, pull out your parachute pants and join the breakdance circle.

Fridays & Saturdays January 15-April 23 Valentines Day Dinner Cruise Monday, February 14 Love isn’t in the air, it’s on the river!

Sponsored by and

SEAFOOD O REGON

Portland Seafood & Wine Festival February 4 & 5, 2011 Oregon Convention Center Friday 2pm-9pm Saturday Noon-9pm

Oregon Seafood 50 Oregon Wineries Hundreds of Exhibitors Get $3 off admission any time by showing your Fred Meyer Rewards Card* Ride MAX and avoid parking

FREE wine glasses for first 300 adults each day. $10 Adults $8 Seniors & Kids under 12 DISCOUNTED $2 off admission first 2 hours each day.*

360.210.5275

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800-224-3901 or 503-224-3900 www.portlandspirit.com

KATU *Fred Meyer offer not combinable with early admission discount

starterscONt. tO dO cONt.

FEB. 20

Peel him a grape legendary jazz pianist and composer Dave Frishberg has written some of the funniest songs in the jazz idiom — “Peel Me a Grape,” “i’m Hip” and “My Attorney Bernie.” He also calls Portland home. Catch him in the intimate Winningstad Theater as part of the Portland Jazz festival. Then grab a glass of wine — grape peeling optional — at the nearby Heathman bar. pdxjazz.com portland.heathmanhotel.com

FEB. 21

Hail to the chief! it’s President’s Day. While the nation has never elected an Oregonian president, one of them — Herbert Hoover — spent part of his boyhood in newberg. Honor him with a day trip to the Hoover-Minthorn 16 House — alas, not on the actual holiday, when it’s closed — where the 31st president lived for four years. Afterward, dine at the nearby Painted lady, one of the best restaurants in Oregon wine country. newbergoregon.gov/newberg/ hoover-minthorn-house thepaintedladyrestaurant.com

FEB. 21

Plop plop, fizz fizz! Why not eat something spicy to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the debut of alka-seltzer? Round 1: Habanero cheese fritters at salvador Molly’s. Round 2: Pok Pok’s green papaya salad, a dish so hot it almost set Al Roker on fire. Round 3: Hot Pepper Chicken Bath at lucky strike. Round 4: The medicine cabinet. Oh, what a relief it is! salvadormollys.com pokpokpdx.com luckystrikepdx.com

MOre tO dO

Getting carded slate-gray skies. Cold, bare earth. An empty calendar. february is the quietest month. With the holidays long gone and the rush of spring still weeks away, there’s finally time to snuggle down with a cup of tea and catch up on all the things you’ve been planning to do. Those recipes your friends are always begging you for? step away from the computer and write them down (yes, write. Remember paper and pens?) on these deliciously tactile letterpress recipe cards from two of Portland’s boutique printers. Jigsaw Graphics offers a clean, simple design adorned with a whisk (with matching gift tags, to boot), while letterary Press offers an assortment of embellishments, from a single cherry or lemon to an old-fashioned eggbeater. Consider them the food-obsessed’s version of a valentine. — DAniEllE CEnTOni

 Whisk tags and recipe cards, eight 3½-by-5-inch cards for $15; jigsawgraphics.com  Assorted recipe cards, a baker’s dozen of 4-by-6-inch cards for $12.95; letterarypress.com

driNk this NOw / ice wiNe, baby When you place frozensolid grapes in a wine press, the ice crystals, skins and seeds will remain, while an ethereally sweet, silky liquid trickles out. fermented, this delicate juice becomes ice wine. American vintners have long made “vin frigidaire” (slang for ice wine made with the help of a certain appliance). But the traditional, natural method requires waiting for a deep winter freeze, then plucking the marble-hard fruit from the frozen vines and whisking it to a well-chilled winery for processing. until recently, very few wine regions — among them Austria, Germany, Canada, idaho and, sometimes, southern Oregon — could pull off such a feat. But now we can add the Columbia River Gorge to that list. Because, in 2009, conditions were ideal for allowing some grapes to hang into the second week of December, when vintner Rich Cushman of Viento harvested solid gold from snowy, high-elevation sites overlooking the gorge. Here’s a taste of the region’s first-ever ice wines.

They were produced in small quantities, so contact the winery directly for availability at vientowines.com. 2009 Viento celilo Vineyard columbia gorge gewürztraminer Icewine ($45 for 375 ml): Pour this liquid honey for your honey on Valentine’s Day. All the intoxicating aromas of classic gewürztraminer — honey, litchi fruit, rose water — are here, along with juicy ripe apricot notes. it smells so good, you’ll be tempted to dab it behind your ears. 2009 Viento underwood Mountain Vineyards columbia gorge Icewine ($60 for 375 ml): More subtle, with clean minerality, Mandarin-orange citrus notes, crackling acidity and a sub-strata of marzipan and honey, this is a blend of 55 percent riesling and 45 percent gewürztraminer that will go the distance. stick it in the cellar and revisit it in a decade. — KATHERinE COlE

Bridgeport Village

SW 72n dA ve

-5

I To 4 7

Agave Grill in Bridgeport is the newest gathering place for friends and family. Enjoy a pre- or post-movie margarita. Stop for a relaxing, fresh made lunch after a mid-day power shop. Head out for a fun and delicious dinner with the kids. Start early with a sweet and savory weekend brunch. Agave Grill’s artistic Mexican cuisine is perfect for any time of day.

Life’s Short...Eat Cupcakes!!! • Local, natural ingredients • Gluten-free available • Custom Cakes by order • Weddings, Catering, Events www.sweetestthingcupcakes.com Photos and Menu online! Now available at TWO locations

Bridgeport Village 7361 SW Bridgeport Rd, Tigard OR 97224 503-372-9152 e-mail: info@agavegrill.net web: www.agavegrill.net

Tigard: Bridgeport Village Mall 7413 SW Bridgeport Road, Tigard (across from Cinemas) 503.431.2151 Newberg: 2501 Portland Road Newberg 503.538.8302

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Shop Local and Support Your Community

Make a purchase during the month of February and Mapel Boutique will donate one designer scarf to a local women’s shelter. Mapel is locally based and independently owned. In addition to local designers and artists, our assortment includes popular brands like 7 For All Mankind, Tulle, Citizens of Humanity, BB Dakota, and Michael Stars.

▲ N designer underwear + swimwear 5

We so enjoy hearing about good food that we will give you a pair of free pearl earrings if you tell us all the tasty details about your favorite restaurant.

Escape to Tommy Bahama’s at Bridgeport Village - the only place that offers the latest in islandinspired men’s and women’s sportswear, swimwear, denim, footwear, accessories and home accessory items. Visit us to update your wardrobe for your next getaway or every day with our new men’s and women’s collections arriving this month!

(across from the movie theater) 503.968.3275 www.silveradoportland.com

7343 SW Bridgeport Road 971.327.7488 www.tommybahama.com

SILVERADO DO O PORTLAND PO JEWELRY Indulge in Silverado’s tasty tidbits: gorgeous handcrafted, artisan jewelry, whimsical wire greeting cards and unique gifts.

Bridgeport Village • Tigard, OR

7453 SE Bridgeport Village Road 503-670-1756 www.shopmapel.com

Finnegan’s Village Toys offers the classic toys that our customers have come to expect, including a tremendous selection of games and puzzles, which help bring friends and families together. The Northwest’s largest independent toy store, Finnegan’s has been locally owned and operated for almost thirty years. Finnegan’s... because every community needs a toy store. 7439 SW Bridgeport Road 503.747.4387

Eye Styles is a fun and exciting experience where you can discover “Eyewear as unique as you”. We offer fabulous frames, contact lenses and eyes exams, with your individual needs in mind and take pride in the quality of care we provide. 7367 SW Bridgeport Rd. 503.372.5013 www.eyestylesllc.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Staci Rizzo at 503.221.8309 or srizzo@oregonian.com

starterscONt. tO dO cONt.

FEB. 22

Another way to douse that fire if your tongue is still stinging, it’s time to celebrate national Margarita Day. sample the range of what this tequilabased drink can be at downtown’s saucebox, where there are four variations, including cucumber and strawberry. saucebox.com

FEB. 25-27

Something’s fishy at the coast

newport’s south Beach Marina is the spot for sampling the freshest catches from the fishing fleet at the newport seafood & Wine Festival. This year’s perplexing theme: “Hollywood & Vine — Take 34.” Huh? newportchamber.org/sw_ general.htm

FEB. 27

Ultimate Oscar potluck The annual Academy Awards are a great excuse for throwing an oscar party. Get your food in on the red carpet action by throwing a potluck with dishes inspired by the year’s best movies. Perhaps a chicken dish tied to “True Grit” (the main character is named Rooster), fancy trail mix or homemade energy bars for “127 Hours,” or English trifle for “The King’s speech.” As for “The social network,” you’re on your own.

cOOk this NOw

Polenta with Caramelized Onions, Kale and Fontina

MAKEs 4 TO 6 sERVinGs

Roughly 5 to 7 cups water, depending on the type of polenta 1 teaspoon fine sea salt for polenta, ½ teaspoon fine sea salt for kale, more to taste 1 cup Ayers Creek polenta or other stoneground polenta 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) 1 large or 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 1 bunch italian black kale (also called cavolo nero and Tuscan kale), ribs removed, well rinsed and roughly chopped 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1½ cups grated imported fontina

get MOre Of the POrtlaNd sceNe, at MixPdx.cOM

Bring 3 cups of water to a boil in a medium pot. Turn down to medium-low and add 1 teaspoon of salt. slowly add the polenta, sprinkling a tablespoon or so into the pot with your fingers to avoid clumping. stir thoroughly before you add more. Bring the mixture to a boil, then adjust to a low bubbling simmer. Continue cooking on medium-low heat, stirring every five minutes or so, scraping the sides and bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula. Cook the polenta about 10 minutes before adding another cup of water, stirring and scraping every 5 minutes or so. Continue adding water in 20-minute intervals until you’ve added a total of 3 more cups of water (not including the original 3 cups). The fresh polenta (Ayers Creek) needs to cook at least 1½ hours to get the best results. Other brands will cook more quickly, 45 minutes or so, and they require less water. The corn will tell you when it needs more water as it thickens up. if you cook more than 90 minutes, add more water. Cook up to 3 hours for a richer, sweeter polenta. While the polenta cooks: Heat a large sauté pan with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the onion slices and cook on low for 40 minutes, stirring often, until the slices are a deep golden color and nicely caramelized. stir when needed and add a teaspoon or so of water if the onions dry out. Transfer the onions to a bowl. Rinse the pan and turn the heat to high to dry it. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the same pan and add kale. it might splatter a bit so be careful. sauté on mediumhigh heat for about 3 minutes. Add about ½ teaspoon sea salt, stirring well, and cook another 2 minutes until the greens are tender. Cover, turn off the heat and allow it to finish cooking in the pan for another 5 minutes or so. After about 90 minutes (or more) the polenta should be done. it will be sweet, rich and have a thick porridgelike consistency. As it finishes cooking, stir in the butter and grated fontina cheese. spoon the polenta into wide, warm bowls. spoon some kale around the polenta and place some onions in the center. Garnish with the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Here is a prescription to relieve the late-winter malaise likely creeping around the edges of your psyche about now: cheesy polenta, in particular made with Gaston-grown Ayers Creek farm polenta. The Boutard family grows the organic heirloom corn, dries it on the husk, shucks it, then stone grinds it days before selling it to their loyal customers at their alternate home base: the Hillsdale farmers market (every other sunday during the winter). Ayers Amish Butter polenta is white and creamy, while the Roy’s Calais flint makes a darker, more rustic polenta. The germ of the corn is not removed, making it more nutritious but requiring storage in the freezer to prevent it from turning rancid. To release the flavor and sugars in the corn, you need to cook Ayers Creek polenta no less than 1½ hours and up to 3 hours, with constant additions of water. if you miss the boat on this year’s Ayers crop (it’s available seasonally, from late fall through february, so hurry up) another fine option is Bob’s Red Mill polenta, which requires less cooking time. Pay attention, and as the corn soaks up the liquid, add more, stirring frequently. if you stay near the stove, it’s almost impossible to ruin.

½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

— TERi GElBER £

walkabout bridgeport village

[ If you haven’t been there recently, you’re missing something new ]

hen Tigard’s Bridgeport Village opened in 2005, the upscale suburban “lifestyle mall” drew big crowds that were curious about the first oregon outposts of national chain stores such as Crate & Barrel and Z Gallerie. The supersized buzz created big parking headaches, with cutthroat drivers jockeying for the few spaces on the development’s three surface parking lots and its multistory garage. A half-decade later, there’s still competitive parking on weekend evenings, when Bridgeport’s many restaurants have long waits for tables and moviegoers gather at the 18-screen all-digital cinema, particularly when event pictures such as the latest “harry Potter” or “Twilight” saga open. But at other times, the throngs have thinned, as shoppers scour for more downscale bargains elsewhere, or flock to the latest commercial hot spot. (Pssst! have you heard h&M is now in oregon?) By GRANT BUTLER / PhoToGRAPhs By MoToyA NAKAMURA

walkabout / bridgeport village cont.

If you haven’t been in a while, there are some delicious new discoveries waiting, plus some old favorites that can help you get your life organized. And if you need to unwind after shopping, head to the other side of Interstate 5 to a hidden gem that will make you feel like a kid again. A good place to start your rediscovery is at 1 agave grill (7361 s.W. Bridgeport Road, Tigard; 503-372-9152; agavegrill.net), a new Mexican restaurant where the emphasis is on from-scratch preparations for key ingredients such as tortillas and guacamole. you’ll be tempted to load up on the free homemade chips and salsa, but save room for the substantial entrees, such as soft tacos filled

with grilled chicken, steak or roasted vegetables, or marinated shellfish and fish that is baked in a cast-iron skillet. Deal alert: The 3-6 p.m. daily happy hour, with five bargain dishes from $4-$6, makes it a perfect pit stop before catching an early evening movie. one puzzling question: Where’s the agave? The sweet cactus nectar that the restaurant is named after only shows up in the tequila and some brunch hot cakes. Now it’s time to get shopping. one of the most elegant homegrown stores in Bridgeport Village is 2 bella Casa (7445 s.W. Bridgeport Road, Tigard; 503-603-9801; bellacasa.net), where you can find unique sideboards and tables for redoing your dining room. If you’re looking for a less-expensive makeover, there are ornately painted

Italian vases, crystal cocktail stemware and colorful dinnerware that will give your tablescapes some needed oomph. And for conversation starters, there’s the whimsical line of cheese plates, salad tongs and candle holders from hot designer Michael Aram — sure to have you entertaining in style. It’s easy to feel cooped up in the dead of winter, but this is a perfect time for organizing those boxes of unsorted photos from the pre-digital era and for making some sense of those old issues of Food & Wine magazine you’ve got stacked in a corner of your home office. Good thing there’s 3 the Container Store (7417 s.W. Bridgeport Road, Tigard; 503-620-5700; containerstore.com), the only oregon outpost of a small Texas-based chain dedicated to banishing kitchen clutter

and laundry room messes. If your cabinets harbor a mishmash of opaque canisters, spring for square, see-through versions with pop-tops that keep everything from rice and pasta to sugar and flour at their very peak. If your china gathers dust when it’s not in use, keep it clean and safe with fabric-lined cases and chests. When the snack attack hits, head to 4 Sweetest thing Cupcakes (7413 s.W. Bridgeport Road, Tigard; 503-431-2151; sweetestthingcupcakes.com), a new dessert kiosk in the center courtyard of the village. At the walk-up window, you can order full or mini cupcakes made by Newberg’s sweetest Thing bakery, with beautifully iced tops and all manner of sprinkle decorations. There’s even gluten-free versions

21 6

yourself a case of the willies with Ghost squad. If you’re still hungry, grab a table in the full-service restaurant, where there’s plenty of bar grub such as pizza, sandwiches and burgers, plus substantial starters such as a hummus plate and onion rings. Don’t miss the $2.50 basket of fried-to-order fresh potato chips, which are perfect for sharing over beer and billiards. £

RSta tE 5

eight-lane bowling alley where you grown beef goes for $3.75 for a sincan hone your strikes and spares. gle or $5.25 for a double. There’s Like any good bowling alley, there’s also chili cheese fries ($3.25) and an arcade, and though there’s oldthe Diablo Dog ($5), which sounds fashioned skee-Ball, don’t expect a like a cardiologist’s nightmare: a lot of worn-out retro games like Ms. beef hot dog wrapped in bacon and Pac-Man or Frogger. Instead, show deep fried, then doused in spicy your moves with Dance Dance Revchili, mustard, American cheese and pickled jalapeños. Don’t say you olution Extreme, show how fast and furious your driving skills are with weren’t warned. Need For speed Tokyo Drift, or give After Mexican food, cupcakes or burgers, you may feel the need to work a calorie or two off. Get in your bRidgEpoRt VillagE car — trust us, there’s someone 1 4 who will be happy to take your 5 freed-up parking space — and head east under the I-5 overpass, where you’ll find 6 players family Entertainment (17880 s.W. McEwan Road, Lake ad oswego; 503-726-4263; Ro 3 t eatdrinkbowlplay.com). oR p here you’ll find a glowing 2 gE id R b SW

fER R loWER boonES

intE

of many of the flavors for restricted diets. If your craving is more substantial, at the next kiosk is 5 Joe’s burgers (7409 s.W. Bridgeport Road, Tigard; 503-598-1111; joesburgerspdx.com), a new gourmet burger venture from the owners of JoPa and 50 Plates restaurants in Portland. Joe Rapport, the business’s namesake, drew his inspiration from L.A. burger and hot-dog sensations sunset Grill and Pink’s, which he loved when his culinary career was beginning in the late ’70s, when he cooked for the then relatively unknown Wolfgang Puck. The aim is to provide top-notch burgers without the spendy asking price, so there’s no indoor seating (though there’s a heated dining pavilion nearby). A single burger made from oregon-

No, we can’t give you the beach and cabaña, but close your eyes and we will take you there with the sounds, scents and Hawaiian Lomilomi massage.

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We are the Westside’s first

It has been a profound pleasure cooking for you these past 11 years, and we greatly look forward to offering you our regionally inspired Italian fare for lunch. - Chef Paul

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Feb/March 2011

Eat it !

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Select from a range of handmade pastas and seasonal salads sourced from our garden and local growers.

Celebrate Romance All February in the Pearl District

lunch tuesday - saturday

dinner & happy hour seven nights a week • opening at 4:00 1230 nw hoyt • 503.241.8800 • fratellicucina.com

We’ve Expanded For Beer!

OVER 500 BEERS to choose from, with room for over 1000 Help us select our inventory! Tell us your favorite brew — if it’s worthy, we’ll stock it!

Our Goal is to Have Portland’s Largest Selection of Beer

Valentine’s Day Kelly Hilligoss

French Hair Cutting Color & Treatments Over 19 years of experience Certified Instructor

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436 SW 13th St.

The Pearl District is the home to more than forty restaurants, bars, coffee shops and ice cream parlors - there’s something for everybody from casual to dressy; from family-oriented to romantic! Visit www.explorethepearl.com for a list of the Pearl’s award-winning restaurants. For a romantic mini vacation, visit our official hotel partners: The Benson Hotel, Courtyard by Marriott - Portland City Center, Inn at Northrup Station and The Mark Spencer Hotel. All offer superb Valentine’s Day packages!

503.516.5539 www.prima-salon.com

I ❤ February Valentine Package

beer wine liquor cigars 900 nw lovejoy - pearl district 503-477-8604 | www.pearlspecialty.com m-s 9-10 | sun 12-7

We Sell Liquor til 10pm!

Treat yourself and your honey to a day of beauty bliss All packages start at $180

(includes complimentary champagne & strawberries)

Call us today to customize your day of bliss!

chachihairskin.com 1740 NW Marshall | 503.206.7522

Fun Neighborhood Bar Cheap Drinks- 14 taps Taco Tuesday - $1 Tacos & $2 Tecate Tall Boys Burgers â&#x20AC;˘ Sandwiches Breakfast All Day Pool â&#x20AC;˘ ShufďŹ&#x201A;eboard Darts â&#x20AC;˘ Air Hockey

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21 and under allowed upstairs until 9 PM

503.222.2229

Pearl Happenings

Dr in k I t !

Sunday, April 17th

Bunny Hop

The Pearl District is home to more than seventy home furnishings and interior design-related stores. The Annual Sample Sale features up to 75% of select merchandise, samples, floor models and more. This is a perfect way to spruce up your place for Spring - and beyond. Visit www.explorethepearl.com for a complete listing of participating merchants.

Find It in the Pearl www.explorethepearl.com

for men & women atâ&#x20AC;Ś

1022A NW Johnson St. Portland, OR 97209 503.274.8882 SHOP ONLINE www.parallelportland.com

Home Furnishings Sample Sale

Families are invited to hop the Bunny Trail this Easter in the Pearl District. Local Pearl Merchants offer complimentary crafts, interactive games, and treats for families to stop by and enjoy. A great time to visit Portlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most walkable neighborhood and ride the Streetcar for Free! The week before Easter, so you can start the holiday early, have great family fun - and still attend all your holiday festivities!

March 5th - 12th

friday night dinner party

[ Winter feasting in Italy ]

By Ivy MaNNINg | Photography by MOTOya NakaMura

s the winter wears on and the chilly dampness clings like a shroud, I can’t help but think of Italy. No, my fondest memories are not of the lusty, sun-soaked Italy of Frances Mayes’ novels. Instead, the Italy I pine for is a wintry, damp place that smells of wood smoke and moss, where I shared rooms in a drafty 15th-century villa with 30 other college students. We studied art history, Italian literature and the excruciating art of Italian composition, but I learned another lesson that would prove much more important: I learned how to throw a dinner party. Our mustachioed cook Bruno prepared fine, meat-based lunches for us, but it was the largely vegetarian dinners that will stay with me forever. Elegant salads full of earthy mushrooms, sweet root vegetables and peppery olive oil combined in ways that boggled my iceberg-lettuce Midwest mind. Bubbling gratins of pasta blanketed in satisfying plum tomato, crème fraîche or cheese sauce. Spicy warmed olives with ciabatta. Beguilingly simple desserts such as espresso-soaked ladyfingers in a puddle of sweetened mascarpone, and lattice-crusted crostatas filled with brambly fruit jam. The food was fresh, simple, and no matter how clinging the misty cold or loud the pelting rain against the lead-paned windows, we always felt like we were at a fabulous dinner party, and we always walked away feeling warmed through and through. Maybe it was the burn of the cheap Chianti we would sneak in, but I’d like to think it was the food and the bonhomie.

Hey, did anyone notice that this menu is meatless? Didn’t think so — the robust, soul-warming flavors in every dish are totally satisfying. The mellow richness of the butternut cannelloni is balanced by zingy olives and peppers to start, as well as a berry-bright jam crostata for dessert.

friday night dinner party cont.

Every menu needs a few shortcuts. Here, Ivy uses ready-made no-boil lasagna noodles rather than the traditional crepes for the cannelloni. You can make the filling ahead of time to streamline the party day’s activities, too.

The climate must have agreed with me because I ended up settling in Portland, where the climate is remarkably similar to northern Italy, especially the damp and clingy-cold winters. Even now, more than 15 years later, I throw more dinner parties in winter in an attempt to relive those cozy winter meals I remember from my time in Italy. The way I see it, it’s a guaranteed equation: Take a hearty Italian-inspired menu, add a few carefully chosen wines and a gaggle of friends, and the stories will always start flowing and laughter will ensue. It’s a surefire way to make these dark, wintry nights feel not like a burden, but a shared adventure.

Ivy’s Menu Warm Marinated Olives

•

roasted Balsamic Peppers With rosemary Toffoli, Prosecco, N.V., a clean, crisp sparkling wine from Conegliano, Italy

•

Mushroom, Lentil and Celery root Salad With Shaved Sheep’s Milk Cheese Vigna Casanuova, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, ’08, rich golden color gives way to a dry white wine with great depth and a friendly price tag ($12.50!)

•

Butternut and gruyère Cannelloni With Crispy Sage and Browned Butter Marco Porello, Barbera d’Alba, ’09, a silky red that effectively cuts the richness of the cannelloni sauce while complementing the fennel spice and cheese in the filling.

•

Loganberry Jam Crostata Cabanon, Bonarda, ’07, a dry, slightly fizzy red with notes of currant and brambly fruit that pairs well with the not-too-sweet crostata.

JEWISH & AFRICAN AMERICANS PLAYING JAZZ

ESPERANZA SPALDING SFJAZZ COLLECTIVE PLAYS STEVIE WONDER REGINA CARTER JOSHUA REDMAN DON BYRON PLAYS MICKEY KATZ MACEO PARKER THE 3 COHENS RANDY WESTON DAVE FRISHBERG AFRO-SEMITIC EXPERIENCE PONCHO SANCHEZ ANAT FORT NIK BÄRTSCH’S RONIN GERALD CLAYTON GREGORY PORTER ORAN ETKIN

game plan

FOR TRAVEL OPTIONS WITH GREAT TICKET PACKAGES, GO TO PDXJAZZ.COM

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Two days before party: Shop for the party, buy wine and groceries. Make the crostata. One day before party: Make the cannelloni filling and sauce. Prep the olives and roasted pepper antipasti. Two hours before guests arrive: Make the salad. Set the table.

IS FOR STEAK LOVERS

One hour before guests arrive: Take the salad and cannelloni ingredients out of the refrigerator. Slice ciabatta. Put olives in oven. assemble cannelloni. 20 minutes before guests arrive: Bake bread and peppers. Make browned butter and crispy sage, set aside sage and keep butter in warm place. When guests arrive: Serve prosecco and antipasti. Open vernaccia and Barbera d’alba 15 minutes after guests arrive: Place cannelloni in oven. 30 minutes after guests arrive: Serve salad and vernaccia. When cannelloni are done: reheat browned butter. Drizzle over cannelloni. Crumble sage over cannelloni and serve with Barbera d’alba.

JOIN US THIS VALENTINE’S DAY WEEKEND

FEBRUARY 11th-14th

FOUR COURSE TASTING MENU $65 A LA CARTE MENU AVAILABLE

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friday night dinner party cont.

Warm Marinated Olives SErvES 6 aS a cockTaIl nIbblE

Baking olives with olive oil, spices and herbs renders their flesh tender and much more flavorful than plain old cold olives. Serve these with slices of warm ciabatta bread, and invite guests to dip their bread in the delicious aromatic oil the olives are baked in. 10 to 12 ounces mixed nonmarinated olives Â˝ teaspoon fennel seeds 1 large garlic clove, peeled and halved lengthwise 1 pinch hot chile flakes 1 3-inch-long strip orange peel 3 sprigs fresh thyme Â˝ to 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 loaf ciabatta bread, sliced

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Combine the olives, fennel seeds, garlic, chile flakes, orange peel and thyme in a small ovenproof baking dish just large enough to hold all the ingredients. add enough olive oil to the dish to come within 1 inch of the top of the baking dish. Cover dish with foil and bake until the olives are hot and the olive oil is bubbly, about 45 minutes. During the last 15 minutes, wrap the bread in foil and add it to the oven to warm. Serve the hot olives with crusty bread on the side.

roasted Balsamic Peppers With rosemary SErvES 6 aS a cockTaIl nIbblE

These silky roasted peppers are wonderful on slices of warm ciabatta. Leftovers are excellent minced and added to a simple tomato sauce for pasta. 2 red bell peppers 2 yellow bell peppers 2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary 3 tablespoons peppery extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar Coarse sea salt Freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. Prick the bell peppers a few times with a fork, place them on the baking sheet and bake until the skins are browned and the peppers have begun to collapse, about 45 minutes. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, pull off their vellum-like skin and discard. Carefully open up the peppers over a serving dish to catch their juices. Discard the seeds, stems and membranes that run along the inside of the peppers. Slice the flesh into 1-inch-wide strips and add to an ovenproof baking dish. Sprinkle the peppers with the rosemary, olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, stirring gently to coat the peppers. Bake for 20 minutes. (The peppers can be made up to 2 days in advance. keep refrigerated in an airtight container. Bake for 30 minutes at 375 degrees, or until warmed through.)

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Mushroom, Lentil and Celery root Salad With Shaved Sheep’s Milk Cheese SErvES 6

This salad benefits from a few hours of marination time to help break down the mushrooms and celery root; plan to make it a few hours before guests arrive. Be sure to use small, dark-green lentils du Puy (available in bulk in grocery stores) that hold their shape while cooking. To gild the lily slightly and accentuate the crisp earthy flavor of the vegetables, I shave shards of firm, salty Sardinian sheep’s milk cheese over the top. If you can’t find Sardinian sheep’s milk cheese, try Parmigiano-reggiano. ¾ cup French lentils du Puy 1 medium garlic clove, smashed 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup Italian parsley leaves, lightly packed ½ teaspoon truffle salt 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon lemon zest

Pick over the lentils, discarding any stones. rinse well and transfer to a small saucepan. add 3 cups of cold water, the garlic, bay leaf and 1⁄2 teaspoon of salt and bring to a boil. reduce heat and simmer until the lentils are tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain, discard bay leaf and garlic; set aside in a warm place.

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

Place the parsley on a cutting board and sprinkle with the truffle salt. Chop until the parsley is coarsely chopped and wet-looking. Transfer the parsley to a large bowl, add the lemon juice and zest, and gradually whisk in the olive oil. add the drained lentils and mushrooms and toss to combine.

With a sharp chef ’s knife, cut away the gnarled roots from the celery root. Peel the rest of the root with a sharp vegetable 4 ounces cremini peeler and cut the celery root into ¼-inchmushrooms, brushed thick slices. Stack a few slices and cut them clean, trimmed and into ¼-inch-thick sticks, add them to the thinly sliced bowl with the lentils and toss with the dressing to prevent the celery root from 2 ounces oyster oxidizing. repeat with remaining celery mushrooms, brushed root. (The salad can be prepared up to 1 clean, trimmed and day in advance to this point. Cover tightly thinly sliced with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to One 1-pound celery root 1 day. Bring to room temperature before proceeding with recipe.) Freshly ground black Taste the salad and season with salt and pepper pepper, keeping in mind that the cheese will 1 ounce firm sheep’s add a tangy bite of its own. Divide the salad milk cheese among 6 salad plates. using a sharp vegetable peeler, shave the cheese over the salads and serve.



6 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil

“Scarifying and powerful.” —The New York Times Feb. 22–March 20 Madeline Nelson & Jim Lafky

OPEN

SIMPLE I TA L I A N COOKING

friday night dinner party cont.

NE XT D

Butternut and gruyère Cannelloni With Crispy Sage and Browned Butter SErvES 6

Serving dinners 7 nights a week

807 NW 21st PORTLAND 226-4646

The cannelloni can be assembled up to 1 hour in advance, so you can have this course squared away before people arrive. I prefer to wait until people arrive and invite folks to help fill and roll up the cannelloni, especially since they all congregate in the kitchen anyway. For cannelloni: 3 pounds butternut or other winter squash

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1 small head of garlic ½ teaspoon fennel seeds 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage

1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cups grated gruyère cheese (divided) 16 ounces crème fraîche ¾ cup cream ½ teaspoon nutmeg ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper 2 packages (18 sheets) no-boil lasagna noodles (I like Barilla “Oven ready” noodles) 4 tablespoons butter 18 fresh sage leaves

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Heat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil. Cut the squash in half lengthwise, scoop out and discard the seeds and stringy bits. Cut the squash pieces in half lengthwise (you will have 4 pieces) and place on the baking sheet skin side down. Wrap the head of garlic in a square of foil and place in the center of the baking sheet. In a mortar and pestle, grind the fennel seeds, sage, salt and pepper until the mixture is a fine paste. add the olive oil and brush mixture all over the squash pieces. Bake until a fork twists easily when inserted in the thickest part of the squash, about 45 minutes. remove the squash from the oven. When the squash is cool enough to handle, scrape the flesh away from skins and place in a large bowl; discard skin. Squeeze the garlic from its skin and add it to the squash flesh. Mash everything together with a fork and stir in 1 cup of the cheese, season with salt and pepper, if needed; set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, cream, nutmeg, salt and white pepper. (The recipe can be prepared in advance up to this point. Cover filling and sauce tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.) Spray 6 gratin dishes with cooking spray and place them on two rimmed baking sheets. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the crème fraîche mixture in each dish. To prepare the noodles, bring a large pot of water to a boil. add the noodles, stir and cook for 3 minutes. Drain and rinse with cool water. Place 3 pasta sheets, short end facing you, on a clean cutting board. Place 2 heaping tablespoons of the squash filling on end of each sheet, roll them up, and place seam side down in one of the gratin dishes. repeat with the remaining filling and pasta sheets. Pour the remaining crème fraîche mixture over the cannelloni and sprinkle with the remaining cup of cheese. (The cannelloni can be prepared up to this point up to 1 hour in advance. Cover and set aside at room temperature.) Bake the cannelloni until the sauce is bubbly and the tops are browned, 35 minutes. allow cannelloni to cool for 10 minutes before serving. While the cannelloni cools, heat the butter in a small sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter has just melted, add the sage and cook, stirring frequently, until the sage is crisp and lightly browned and the butter is browned and has a nutty aroma, about 1 minute. reduce heat if butter begins to burn. Spoon the hot butter and sage leaves over the cannelloni immediately before serving.

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Loganberry Jam Crostata SErvES 8

This tart is a great option for those who hate making, chilling and rolling out pie dough. This super simple crostata dough relies on mild-flavored olive oil instead of butter, so all you have to do is press the dough into a pan immediately after making it. The showy lattice crust is as easy to make as it is to toy around with Play-Doh. Since the filling is just one ingredient, it’s crucial to use a high-quality jam that tastes of fruit, not sugar. I love ayers Creek jam, available at The Cheese Bar (cheese-bar. com), Foster & Dobbs (fosteranddobbs.com) and other specialty grocery stores. 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 6 tablespoons sugar ¾ teaspoon baking powder 1 pinch salt 1 large egg 2 tablespoons mild extra-virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 1½ teaspoons amaretto liqueur 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest 1¼ cups not-too-sweet berry jam (I use ayers Creek loganberry jam) 1 egg yolk 1 tablespoon water

Heat oven to 325 degrees. Spray a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom with cooking spray; set aside. In a large, shallow bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, olive oil, vanilla, liqueur and orange zest. add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and stir with your hands or a wooden spoon until mixture comes together. knead gently until the dough is smooth. Transfer ¾ of the dough to the prepared tart pan and press it into the bottom and up the sides of the pan, making sure the crust is of even thickness all the way around. Spread the jam into the base of the tart dough. On a lightly floured surface, roll out a golf-ball-size ball of the remaining dough into a snakelike rope about ¼ inch thick. Cut the dough into lengths and place them in horizontal rows about 1 inch apart on top of the tart, trimming to fit and pressing the ends of the dough into the edges of the tart with your thumb. Turn the tart pan one-quarter turn and repeat, laying vertical strips on top of the horizontal strips to create a pretty diamond lattice pattern. It’s Ok to roll your dough scraps. Transfer the tart pan to a rimmed baking sheet. Whisk the egg yolk and water together and carefully brush the latticed dough and edges of tart dough with the egg mixture. Bake until the crust is golden brown and firm, 30 minutes. (The tart can be made up to 2 days in advance and kept at room temperature, tightly wrapped in plastic wrap. Warm in a moderate oven for 10 minutes before serving.) £

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cuisine of consequence Global dishes that will 32

cure what ails you, even if you’re just too high on life It seems safe to say that Portlanders are fairly diverse diners. On any given evening, we can be found cooking up a pot of spaghetti alla bolognese, savoring steaming bowls of Vietnamese pho, crunching down on hefty Mexican tortas or tucking into platters of delicately composed sushi. But all those bottles of Moretti, Singha and Corona we often imbibe as accompaniments to such dishes can certainly take their toll. I speak, dear reader, of the hangover and its devastating effects not only on our bodies, but also on our taste buds. Truth be told, when the ragged morning after rolls

BY DeenA PrICheP PhOTOGrAPhY BY MIKe DAVIS

around, our culinary exploration can grind to an alarming halt. We’ve barely the brainpower to fry an egg. Which is a shame, because, as it turns out, the very cuisines we were excited to partake in the night before have some of the best morningafter cures around. In the name of culinary restoration for the hangover-haunted, I combed the city for multicultural cure-alls and dug up five recipes that offer just the right amount of home-cooked magic to turn our bodies (and our devastated palates) right side up again. Keep the instructions and ingredients for these remedies close at hand. As long as you’ve got enough energy to lift a wooden spoon, help is definitely on the way.

See Page 38

ISrAeL ShAKShOUKA According to Jeremy Garb, who grew up outside of Tel Aviv and is the owner of the Israeli food cart Wolf & Bear’s, shakshouka is the go-to recipe of all cooks from his homeland: “If you’ve met any Israelis, you’ve had shakshouka.” This sloppy dish of eggs poached in a seasoned tomato-pepper sauce is meant to be sopped up with pita or other flatbread, and is perfect for the equally sloppy brain of the hung-over subject. Like the menu at Wolf & Bear’s, shakshouka illustrates the many cultural influences on Israeli cuisine, from the Middle east to north Africa. Beyond the requisite tomatoes and peppers for the dish, shakshouka can be spiked with hot sauce, peppered with briny olives or topped with feta for a less authentic, but equally delicious, variation. “The way I see it, there are no rules,” Garb says.

Shakshouka SerVeS 2

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for serving 1 large red bell pepper, core and seeds removed, the rest cut into 1-inch-long strips ½ yellow onion, diced 3 large garlic cloves, minced ¼ jalapeño chile, minced (use more or less depending upon your taste for heat) 1 teaspoon ground cumin 34

1 teaspoon hungarian paprika (sweet or hot, depending on preference) 1½ pounds ripe tomatoes, diced (or 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes) 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 cups water (divided) Salt Freshly cracked ground pepper 4 eggs A few sprigs of cilantro, leaves roughly chopped In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat, and cook the pepper and onion until lightly brown and soft, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and jalapeño, cook another 2 minutes, then add the cumin and paprika, tomatoes and tomato paste. Add 1 cup of water and bring to a simmer. reduce the heat until it’s just high enough to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring often, until the tomatoes start breaking down, about 30 minutes. Add more water as needed to maintain a saucy consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste. Break the eggs into the pan so that they’re nestled in the sauce. Cover the pan and continue to simmer until the whites are cooked but the yolks are still runny. Garnish with the cilantro, scoop out an egg and sauce into a shallow bowl, and serve with bread and olive oil. — From Jeremy Garb

Gimme the Cure! Physiologically speaking, the hung-over body is something of a disaster zone. So many nasty factors are going on that it’s hard to pinpoint what makes us feel the worst. Scientists often point to dehydration. When drinking alcohol, our bodies end up flushing away important fluids and crucial watersoluble vitamins. Many of us also experience nausea, which is induced by the rash of chemicals our bodies produce to break down alcohol in our bloodstream. Sleep tends to be disrupted after a night of too many beers, so we’re tired in the morning. And “congeners,” those tasty chemical compounds produced during alcoholic fermentation (especially in browner alcohols), make us feel particularly haggard the next morning. Whatever the cause for hangovers, it’s pretty clear that just about every culture in the world has its own culinary cure. But when it comes to asking scientists to assess the curative nature of, say, a bowl of menudo, they don’t 35 want to say anything that could be interpreted as giving a thumbs-up to drunkenness. Scientific funding runs along the same lines, so there isn’t a wealth of studies ranking the effectiveness of Chinese congee or French onion soup, both traditional hangover antidotes in their own countries. Instead, we’re left with old wives’ tales about the curative powers of eggs, chiles and endless bowls of soup. Which just means we may have to man up, grab a spatula with our slightly shaky hands, and do the research ourselves.

Shakshouka is the recipe every Israeli loves, according to Tel Aviv native Jeremy Garb, here with Tanna Tenhoopen Delinsky. You’ll find a similar dish in many cuisines — the zingy tomato sauce and rich eggs are perfect comfort food.

ITALY PASTA CArBOnArA It’s no big shock that Italians solve their hangovers the same way they solve so many of life’s problems: with pasta. Specifically pasta carbonara, a rich dish sauced with cured pork belly, egg yolks and lots of grated cheese. Anthony Cafiero, the chef de cuisine at Tabla Mediterranean Bistro, says the combination is more familiar than you would think. “It’s a riff on bacon and eggs,” he says. Some food historians have even posited that Italians first created the dish using the bacon and egg rations that came with the U.S. troops stationed there during World War II (although Italy’s trove of smoked and cured meats quickly replaced American bacon). even the sauce, created by emulsifying cold egg yolks with warm pasta water, isn’t too far from another familiar brunch item: “Basically you’re creating a quick hollandaise,” Cafiero says. Preparing the dish takes about as long as it takes to cook up a batch of pasta, which means it’s within the realm of even the most compromised cooks, as long as whisking faculties are still intact.

Pasta Carbonara SerVeS 4

Kosher salt, or sea salt 12 ounces dried spaghetti 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 ounces minced guanciale, pancetta or bacon 4 cloves garlic, minced ¾ cup white wine 1 cup Parmigiano-reggiano, finely grated 5 egg yolks Ground black pepper to taste Bring a large pot of water to boil over high heat. Add kosher salt or sea salt to it until it tastes a little less salty than seawater. Drop in the pasta and cook until the pasta is al dente. When the pasta is ready, strain it through a colander, reserving a few cups of pasta water. While the pasta cooks, heat olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat, add the guanciale, pancetta or bacon, and cook until it begins to brown

slightly. reduce the heat to medium, keep all the fat in the pan, add the garlic, and continue to cook for an additional 3 minutes, until the garlic is no longer raw. Add the white wine to the pan to deglaze it. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up all of the brown bits that have stuck to the pan, incorporating them into the sauce. Simmer until the wine, garlic and guanciale mixture is reduced by half, then scrape it into a large bowl. Dump the hot, strained pasta into the bowl with the wine, garlic and meat mixture, and toss thoroughly; keep hot. Working quickly, whisk the cheese and egg yolks together in a separate large bowl, using ½ to 1 cup of the reserved pasta water to help spread it out and emulsify the mixture into a thick sauce. Pour the pasta mixture into the egg and cheese bowl, quickly toss and mix well, adding a bit more pasta water if the pasta is too tight and not saucy enough. Serve in a large, warm pasta bowl with a bit of grated Parmigiano-reggiano and fresh ground black pepper on top. — From Anthony Cafiero

FrAnCe OnIOn SOUP Pascal Chureau named his West Linn bistro Allium, after the genus that includes onions, so it’s no surprise to find French onion soup served there. But not just at Allium: Chureau has featured the dish at every kitchen he has ever run. “My wife will kill me if it’s not on the menu,” he laughs. Chureau says this peasant staple of onions, broth, bread and cheese is common throughout France but is especially beloved as a form of postdrinking sustenance. According to Chureau, fetes in his native Bordeaux run from evening well into the next day. “In France, you don’t go to sleep. So if the wedding is on a Saturday, on Sunday morning you’re eating onion soup.” Like much of French cooking, the ingredients are simple, but the details ar e important — onions should be cooked at just the right temperature to achieve a deep caramelization of the sugars without any acrid notes, and the pan should be deglazed just so. For this recipe, Chureau has tweaked his version a bit, using ready-made chicken and beef broths instead of the homemade veal or beef to highlight the onion flavor, and mixing emmenthal cheese in with the standard gruyère. But he still keeps with tradition: When his sister was married in France, he brought a big vat of onion soup and warmed it up on an outside burner the next morning for the happy and quite hung-over guests.

French Onion Soup

until onions are a dark walnut color, about 90 minutes more.

SerVeS 6

Tie thyme and rosemary together with string.

4 ounces butter 6 large yellow onions, halved and then cut in ¼-inch slices ½ tablespoon kosher salt 6 sprigs thyme 1 sprig rosemary ½ cup dry sherry (divided) 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth 2 cups beef broth 1 bay leaf Ground black pepper 1 baguette, cut into ½-inch slices 4 ounces gruyère cheese, grated 4 ounces emmenthal cheese, grated Melt butter in a large Dutch oven or heavybottomed soup pot over medium heat. Add onions and salt; toss to evenly coat. Cover and cook until very soft, about 30 minutes. remove cover and cook, stirring frequently,

Increase heat to medium-high until a dark crust, known as the fond, forms in the bottom of the pan; take care not to burn it, however. Add ¼ cup sherry to deglaze, scraping fond into the onions. Let cook until fond forms once again and add remaining ¼ cup sherry to deglaze again. As the fond starts to form a third time, sprinkle in flour and cook for two minutes, stirring constantly. Add both broths, scraping bottom of pan to deglaze. Add bundled herbs and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook 20 minutes. Add several grinds of freshly ground black pepper and salt to taste. While soup simmers, heat oven to 400 degrees and toast bread in a single layer on a baking sheet, until dry and crisp. When soup is done, ladle into individual broiler-safe soup crocks and place on baking sheet. Mix the two cheeses together, place toasts on soup and sprinkle the cheeses evenly over the top. Broil for 3-5 minutes, or until cheese is completely melted and golden brown. If you do not have soup crocks, broil cheese toasts on baking sheet separately and place on top of soup in bowls. — Adapted from Pascal Chureau

WeST COAST OF AMerICA SMOOThIeS The West Coast is the region that turned wheatgrass into a cliché, so it makes sense that a lot of Oregonians treat their hangovers with frosty glasses of puréed fruits and vegetables. Brian heck runs Sip, a small juice cart that operates out of a 1960s camper in Southeast Portland, and mixes up healthy beverages for the huddled masses all of the time. heck always knows when he has a hangover on his hands. “You can see it right when they walk up — I can see it in their faces.” his custom cure-all? A Greensicle Smoothie, composed of banana, orange and leafy greens blitzed up with a dash of vanilla and a handful of ice. In addition to the undeniable benefits of basic hydration, this smoothie packs a wallop of vitamin C and potassium, replacing what you probably lost the night before. So long as your pounding head can withstand the noise of your blender, heck’s smoothie recipe is a healthy start to the morning after.

Greensicle Smoothie MAKeS ABOUT 2 CUPS

1 banana ½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice (about 2 oranges) 1 handful of chopped green kale 1 handful of chopped spinach ⁄8 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon agave 1 cup ice Place all ingredients in a blender, saving the ice for last, and blend until the greens are thoroughly mixed in. — From Brian Heck

ChInA COnGee At Kenny’s noodle house in Southeast Portland, a kitchen worker comes in at the crack of dawn every day to stir a fresh pot of congee. For three hours. That might seem like an inordinate amount of time to spend on what is essentially rice and water, but all skepticism evaporates when you taste a bowl of what is likely the smoothest comfort food around. You can ladle congee over meat or seafood, allowing flavors to infuse the creamy porridge, or top it with peanuts, scallions or Chinese doughnuts to add textural counterpoint. But the most ragged of stomachs will appreciate the plain version, with just a sprinkling of salt and soothing ginger juice. Owner Kenny Yu, who honed his technique in his native Guangzhou, says many customers pick up quarts of this traditional cure to take home when they’re feeling lousy. For American palates used to big flavors, congee can seem a bit underwhelming upon first bite. But as you tease apart the subtle flavors and are soothed by the creamy texture, you’ll struggle to stop yourself from swiping the bowl clean with your fingers.

Congee MAKeS ABOUT 5 CUPS

1 cup long-grain white rice ½ teaspoon vegetable oil Salt to taste ½-inch piece of ginger, grated and squeezed to extract a few drops of juice Optional toppings: thinly sliced scallions, peanuts, marinated raw cod or beef Put the rice in a bowl with the oil and enough water to just barely cover. Let soak overnight. The next morning, bring 5 cups of water to a boil in a large pot. Add the rice and soaking liquid, bring back to a boil, then reduce the heat until it’s just enough to maintain a low simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring every few minutes (otherwise the congee will cement itself to the bottom of your pot). After the congee has been cooking for an hour or so, bring a few cups of water to a boil in a separate pot. As the liquid in the congee is absorbed, whisk in small amounts of the boiling water to keep the mixture soupy and loose. raise the heat after adding the water to maintain the simmer, but then reduce it to avoid scorching. Continue this process, stirring regularly, for another one to two hours, until the rice is completely broken down and creamy. Before serving, add salt to taste. Add the ginger juice, allowing the heat of the congee to bring out the fragrance of the ginger. If you’re adding fish or beef, add them to the congee and bring to a boil until they are just cooked. Serve topped with scallions or peanuts, or enjoy plain. — From Kenny Yu

Crackers in a

snap

Venture outside of the (expensive) box by crafting your own crisps These days, throwing even the simplest of parties — you know, a little wine, maybe a few cheeses — can be a ridiculously expensive undertaking. Of course, it makes some sense to fork over our Benjamins for artisanal salami, say, or a case of barbera, but for a box of 25 gourmet crackers? Total. snacking. Buzzkill. especially considering the ingredients on most of those $8 and $9 boxes are simply flour, oil and salt. so why not make your own? These simple recipes yield much tastier crisps than you’ll ever find in a box and they cost next to nothing to make. add a few worldly dips — a creamy and tangy hungarian goat cheese spread, for instance, or an exotic red pepper and walnut purée — and you’ll end up with a platter of elegant appetizers perfect for your next soiree — which might just consist of you — and all without breaking the bank. By Ivy Manning Photography by Motoya Nakamura

Corn Crisps With Chipotle Black Bean dip Makes about 30 crackers

This recipe calls for fine corn flour, not to be confused with fine cornmeal. Find it in bulk at grocery stores or buy it online from Bob’s Red Mill, www.bobsredmill.com. Because the recipe makes a thin batter, you don’t have to fiddle with cutting and rolling. Just drop spoonfuls of the batter on parchment-lined baking sheets and spread the batter out for delicious, thin crisps that go great with just about any dip. 1 cup corn flour ⁄3 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 14 tablespoons water 1 egg ⁄3 cup corn oil

Coarse sea salt heat oven to 350 degrees. Line three baking sheets with parchment paper or nonstick baking mats. 42

In a medium bowl, whisk the corn flour, all-purpose flour, salt, baking powder, sugar and pepper together. In another bowl, whisk the water, egg and oil together. add the wet ingredients to the dry and whisk until smooth. drop the batter by the tablespoonful onto the prepared baking sheets, about 3 inches apart. Using the back of the spoon, spread the blobs of batter into 3½-inch rounds. sprinkle with salt and bake until the edges are browned and the crackers are crisp, about 15 minutes. Cool on a wire rack and keep in an airtight container for up to three days.

Chipotle Black Bean dip Makes 2 cups

¼ cup cilantro leaves 1 cup chopped red onion 3 medium garlic cloves, peeled 1 tablespoon chopped canned chipotle chiles 1 teaspoon ground cumin Two 15-ounce cans black beans, drained and rinsed 4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the cilantro, onion, garlic, chipotle chiles and cumin in a food processor and pulse until finely minced. add the beans and lime juice and process until mostly smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides of processor once. season with salt and pepper and serve at room temperature with crackers. The dip can be made up to three days ahead. Keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Paper-Thin Rosemary semolina Crackers With Muhammara Makes 12 8-inch-long sheets

serve these long cracker sheets whole, inviting guests to break off pieces with their fingers, or cut the crackers into 4-inch rectangles if you prefer pre-cut crackers. Their character comes from their delicacy, so you really need a pasta roller to get them thin enough; you could try rolling with a rolling pin, but they may end up a touch too thick. 1 cup all-purpose unbleached flour ½ cup semolina flour ⁄3 cup warm water

½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon olive oil ½ teaspoon fleur de sel, or other coarse salt 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves Blend the two flours, water, kosher salt and oil in the bowl of an electric mixer with the dough hook on medium speed for 3 minutes until a smooth, but not sticky, dough forms. (add a bit of flour if the dough is too sticky to handle, a bit of water if the dough is not coming together.) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the dough to sit at room temperature for 1 hour. heat the oven to 400 degrees. Mound the salt and rosemary together on a cutting board and chop them finely, set aside. Line four baking sheets with parchment paper. divide the dough into six equal-size balls. dust one ball of dough with flour and flatten it into a disk about 1⁄2-inch thick. Run the disk of dough through a pasta maker set on the thickest setting. Flour the dough again, fold it in half, and run it through the pasta maker on the thickest setting again. adjust the pasta maker to the second-thickest setting and run the dough through. Continue running the dough through the pasta maker on progressively thinner settings

until you have reached the third-most-narrow setting (No. 5 on most pasta makers). you will have a long, thin sheet of dough about 8 inches long. Transfer the dough to a prepared baking sheet, cutting it into two pieces to fit the sheet, if necessary. Continue rolling out the remaining dough balls in the same way. spritz the dough sheets lightly with water, sprinkle them with the rosemary-salt mixture, and press gently with your fingertips to adhere the salt mixture to the crackers. Bake until the crackers are golden brown and crisp, rotating the baking sheets twice during baking. Watch carefully, as they go from pale to burnt in seconds.

Muhammara Makes 1¾ cups

Muhammara is a red pepper dip that originally hailed from syria. This recipe calls for pomegranate molasses, which can be found at specialty stores such as Barbur World Foods (9845 s.W. Barbur Blvd., 503-244-0670). 1 pound red bell peppers (3 medium peppers) ⁄3 cup (2 ounces) toasted walnuts

¼ cup dry bread crumbs 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon chili garlic paste (such as Tuong Ot Chili Garlic sauce) or sambal oelek. ¾ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil Roast the peppers directly over a gas flame, turning with tongs occasionally until the skins are blackened, about 10 minutes. alternatively, place the peppers on a baking sheet about 4 inches from the broiling element until blackened, about 15 minutes. Place peppers in a bowl, cover with a plate and let the peppers steam for 30 minutes. scrape off the blackened skin and discard. Remove the seeds and stem and discard. Roughly chop the peppers. In a blender, combine the peppers, walnuts, bread crumbs, lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, cumin, chili garlic paste, salt, and 1 tablespoon of water and blend until smooth. With the blender running, slowly add the olive oil. allow the muhammara to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to allow flavors to meld. serve with crackers.

hungarian Goat Cheese spread Makes about 2 cups

This is a dressed-up version of Liptauer, a soft eastern european cheese spread seasoned with ground caraway seeds, paprika and chopped pickles. you can find smoked paprika at New seasons, Pastaworks, Zupan’s and other local specialty stores. 8 ounces plain soft goat cheese, room temperature 6 ounces plain cream cheese, room temperature 1 teaspoon ground caraway seeds 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 3 tablespoons finely chopped cornichons or small dill pickles 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tangy Cheddar Cheese Crackers With hungarian Goat Cheese spread Makes about 180 crackers

similar to boxed cheese crackers, this recipe relies on cheddar cheese and annatto to lend a sharp, savory flavor to flaky, bite-size crackers. annatto is a soft, crumbly, slightly peppery seasoning made from achiote seeds. Typically used by cooks to add color and flavor to meat marinades, it is usually sold at Latino markets. 1 teaspoon annatto, crumbled 7 tablespoons water 1 teaspoon yeast 1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling out dough ½ teaspoon sea salt, plus more for topping ½ teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons chicken bouillon powder (preferably Knorr brand) 1 cup (2 ounces) finely grated sharp cheddar cheese ¼ cup cold shortening

heat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine the annatto and water in a glass measuring cup and stir to dissolve — the annatto will turn the water a deep crimson color. stir in the yeast and set aside. In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the flour, salt, baking soda and bouillon powder until combined. add the cheese and shortening, and pulse until the fat is in tiny pieces and the mixture looks like coarse cornmeal, about 30 pulses. Turn the mixture out into a bowl and stir in all of the water and yeast mixture. stir until the dough just comes together. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth, about 30 seconds. divide the dough into two balls. On a lightly floured surface, roll one ball of dough into a 12-by-14-inch rectangle, lifting and rotating as you roll to ensure that the dough is not sticking to the work surface. sprinkle the dough with salt and press gently so it adheres. Use a crimped pastry cutter or regular pizza wheel to cut the dough into 1-inch squares. Transfer the crackers to baking sheets and bake until the crackers are crisped and light brown around the edges, about 15 minutes. Cool and keep in an airtight container for up to one week.

Combine all of the ingredients in a medium bowl and whip with a handheld mixer until fluffy. season with salt and pepper and allow flavors to meld for at least 1 hour. serve at room temperature with crackers. The spread can be made up to one week in advance. Bring to room temperature before serving. £

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good cheese [ Goat Cheese Truffles: A Labor of Love ] by tami parr / photography by ross william hamilton

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Join us for our great weekend brunch and our daily happy hour.

1205 SW Washington

503-719-5506

here’s an idea for Valentine’s Day that’s a touch more original than a box of chocolatecovered cherries: goat Cheese truffles from briar rose Creamery in Dundee. hmm, you say, chocolate and cheese may seem like strange bedfellows, but that’s just because we’re so accustomed to thinking about cheese on the savory end of the flavor spectrum. you know what i mean: cheese and wine, cheese and crackers, or salami and cheese. in fact, fresh chèvre’s mild, slightly tart flavor is a perfect canvas for culinary experimentation; in combination with a good dark chocolate, it blossoms into a flavor revelation. Cheese-maker sarah marcus first made goat cheese truffles while an intern at goat lady Dairy in north Carolina. after starting her cheese-making business last year, she concentrated on developing her own recipe in earnest. “i like the tart nature of my chèvre to sing harmoniously with the sultry and rich dark chocolate,” she says. “i’m going for a balanced confection that melts away on the tongue and

lingers on the palate.” marcus hosted focus groups of friends to test a number of different chocolates and cocoas before arriving at just the right combination of creamy goat’s milk cheese and semisweet chocolaty goodness. “my truffles are like the best chocolate cheesecake you’ve ever had.” though marcus makes other cheeses, including some tasty flavored chèvres (aged cheeses are coming later this year), truffle-making evolved partly as a labor of love and tribute to her late mother, travel and food writer adrianne marcus, author of a book called The Chocolate Bible. marcus remembers that, while writing the book in the 1970s, her mom had cases of chocolate from all over the world sitting around the house, waiting to be tasted (can you imagine?!). her mom remained very serious about her chocolate throughout her life. “she used to joke that when she died, she didn’t want to be buried, she wanted to be enrobed in chocolate!” adrianne

Briar Rose Creamery, Dundee, Oregon Find the chèvre truffles at Abbie & Oliver’s in McMinnville, Cheese Bar in Portland, Sundance in Eugene or directly from Briar Rose Creamery at farmers markets and events.

marcus was a big supporter of her daughter’s cheese-making adventures and loved to show off early versions of the truffles to her friends. to fully understand the pedigree of these truffles, let’s go to the source. marcus gets the goat’s milk for all of her cheeses and confections from a mixed herd of nubian, toggenburg and alpines in stayton, owned by shawn hanowell. hanowell might be familiar to local cheese lovers as the man behind silver Falls Creamery, a cheese-making operation that closed last year. but the closure blossomed into an opportunity: marcus and hanowell have worked out a symbiotic relationship that plays to each other’s strengths: hanowell, a fourth-generation herdsman, keeps and milks the goats; marcus, the cheese wizard, focuses her energies on transforming the milk into a variety of products such as these unique truffles. the process of crafting goat

cheese truffles is a multistep, labor-intensive endeavor, but in that way it’s not unlike making cheese itself. First, marcus melts the chocolate, which she mixes with her freshly made chèvre and a few other delectables (the exact recipe, including the specific type of chocolate, remains her closely guarded secret). once the mixture has arrived at the perfect temperature, marcus hand forms the mixture into small, bite sized orbs. next, she dusts the truffles with cocoa powder, which she says “adds a slight tempering note, a smoky voice that hits your tongue first.” her devotion to detail, not to mention her lifelong education in all things chocolate, shows. these are lovely chocolates — or should i say cheeses? — with a creamy texture and subtly tangy finish. Deeply chocolaty but velvet-rich and slightly tart at the same time, these truffles are a luscious taste adventure. £

Chocolate and goat cheese isn’t such an odd combination when you think about it — if you’ve ever had chocolate cheesecake, you’ll know how the slight dairy tang simply makes the chocolate more complex. sarah marcus of briar rose Creamery experimented for months to find both chocolate and cocoa powder that balanced with the flavors of her fresh, sweet goat chevre.

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Located in the heart of Walla Walla’s wine country, the Marcus Whitman Hotel & Conference Center is Walla Walla’s leading hotel and restaurant. Enjoy a romantic escape to comfort and tradition with beautifully appointed rooms, unforgettable seasonal cuisine and a wonderful selection of area wines. Exceptional guest experiences for every guest!

Take a romantic escape to Washington’s largest ski area. Our small resort is tucked in the woods, with charming chalet suites & a romantic honeymoon cabin. Soak in our hot tub & 90° heated pool. Take a gondola ride to Crystal’s summit & Washington’s highest restaurant at 6872’. Snowshoe right from your door. Incredible stay & ski packages midweek (non-holiday) or every day in the spring.

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Skamania County Washington Less than an hour from Portland, Skamania County offers all the elements for the perfect romantic getaway. Experience an exhilarating mid-winter hike followed by drinks next to a cozy fire. Or just sit back and enjoy the view while relaxing by the fire. We have something for everyone in Skamania County.

Wine and Unwind Enjoy a relaxing, quiet respite while rejuvenating your relationship in the valley’s most sublime spot. Luxurious rooms, beautiful views and exceptional estate wines await you.

Youngberg Hill Vineyards & Inn 888-657-8668 Online at YoungbergHill.com, Facebook & Twitter

800-989-9178 www.skamania.org

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Hood River’s all new Columbia Cliff Villas Hotel – rooms and spectacular suites – perfect for a memorable getaway. Escape for an unforgettable evening with incredible views & fireplaces; adjacent to 208’ waterfall, spa, fine & casual dining; free tastings at top Gorge wineries. Easy to get to: I-84 to Exit 62

866-912-8366 www.columbiacliffvillas.com/ reservations.php

A Romantic Retreat at Pronghorn in Bend, OR Upgrade any Pronghorn Package with our Romance Retreat ~ add $89/night • Private Dinner Location • Bottle of Champagne • 2 Pronghorn glasses • Chocolate Mousse stuffed Strawberries • Candles • Flowers in the room • Rose Petals • 15% off Merchandise • 15% off Golf

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The Resort at Skamania Cove New Vacation Rentals in the Gorge! 1 and 2 bedroom houses from $225* per night. One unit with Hot Tub. Exceptionally appointed. Fireplaces, River and Mountain views, private, full kitchens, heated floors, wifi, satellite TV. River access, one mile east of Stevenson, WA (* 2 night minimum required)

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Elizabeth Street Inn - Newport Cozy replace. Watch Cozy up up by by the the fiﬁreplace. Watch the the sunset sunset from from your your private private balcony balcony with with ocean ocean view. view. Enjoy Enjoy an an indoor indoor heated heated pool spa,a light a hotcontinental breakfast buffet pool and & spa, breakand salmon chowder fast smoked & fresh baked cookies every appetizer. EnjoyNewport’s Newport’smany many evening. Enjoy attractions, attractions, restaurants restaurants and and shopping. shopping.

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ONe dish, three wiNes

[ Sublime brussels sprouts and the wines that love them ] ou have choices in life, you know. You can choose to steam your brussels sprouts until they’re as mushy as leftover oatmeal. You can warm up leftover pork and smother it beyond recognition with barbecue sauce. And, as long as you’ve got the oven on, you can empty a bag of frozen tater tots onto a cookie sheet and throw them in there, too. You could just open a can of beer. Or grab any old wine at the grocery store. Such choices might make life easier. They’re less time-consuming, right? But if you should choose to sauté those brussels sprouts with potatoes until they’re crisp and caramelized, and then drop a gooey fried egg on top along with a garnish of pancetta, you will transcend beyond even the Platonic ideal of brussels sprouts. You will enter a whole new, savory-yet-strangely-sweet realm of crisp, salty, gooey, protein-rich bliss. And then, if you should open and pour precisely the right wine, you will transform your dull, partly leftover repast into something sublime: a celebratory winter feast. So pick yourself up and face that netted bag of brussels sprouts that has been sitting in your fridge. Make the right choice. Do not surrender to the steamer. You will slice, you will dice and you will fry. And, with the help of our trio of wine experts, you will drink well when you are done.

BY KATherine COle reCiPe BY MATThew CArD PhOTOgrAPhY BY MOTOYA nAKAMurA

ONe dish, three wiNes cONt. The reCiPe::

Brussels Sprouts and Potato hash with Fried egg and Pancetta SerVeS 4

A large (14-inch) nonstick or well-seasoned skillet is necessary for adequate browning; otherwise the potatoes may stick fast and burn. The potatoes and brussels sprouts can be parcooked up to one day in advance and stored in the refrigerator. Any mustard will do, but i strongly recommend whole-grain mustard or sweet-spicy german-style mustard.

1½ pounds Yukon gold potatoes, cut into ½-inch cubes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided)

Salt

4 ounces pancetta, chopped

¾ pound brussels sprouts, bottoms trimmed, outer leaves peeled, and halved or quartered if large

1 medium-small red onion, halved pole-to-pole, cored and sliced into ¼-inch strips 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

Crushed red pepper flakes ground black pepper 4 large eggs 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley Mustard, for serving

Cover potatoes by 2 inches with water in a large saucepan and season generously with salt. Bring to simmer over high heat and cook until potatoes are just tender and easily pierced with a knife, about 5 minutes. remove from saucepan with strainer, drain, and spread in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Add brussels sprouts to simmering water and cook until just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and spread on baking sheet with potatoes. refrigerate for at least 30 minutes (or up to 1 day).

Combine 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the pancetta in large (14-inch) nonstick skillet and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until pancetta has rendered fat and is crisp, 7 to 9 minutes. with slotted spoon, transfer browned pancetta to paper-towel-lined plate; set aside. Add onion to pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in potatoes, brussels sprouts and thyme; season generously with crushed red pepper flakes and ground black pepper. Pack down with spatula and cook, without stirring, until potatoes have browned, about 5 minutes. using spatula, gently redistribute hash, pack down and cook until well browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir again; repeat process until hash is very well browned and cooked through, about 10 minutes longer (20 minutes total). Transfer to serving platter or individual plates. reduce heat to low, wipe out any stuck-on bits in the pan, and swirl remaining 1 tablespoon oil in pan. Carefully crack 4 eggs in pan (ideally so they’re not touching), season with salt and pepper, and cover. Cook until whites are just set and yolks are warm but runny, about 2 minutes. Place egg over top of each serving, garnish with reserved pancetta and the parsley, and serve immediately accompanied with plenty of mustard. — Matthew Card

SIMPLY ELEGANT Hand Blown Art Glass

The wineS: NV EIEIO & Co. “Swine Wine” Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ignore the above if you’re looking for this bottle on store shelves: There are no words on the label; just a big, pink, plump pig. which is not to say that it shouldn’t be taken serously. “This is not a cocktail wine,” says Chris Davis, a boutique importer of european wines. “This is an age-worthy food wine. it has a raspberry-currant core with savory, earthy qualities. it’s no fruit bomb. And it’s got a bit of spice, which will go nicely with the mild heat of the red pepper flakes, which in turn will coax more out of the fruit.” As Davis explains, this nonvintage cuvée culls fruit from a variety of low-yield willamette Valley vineyards, planted as far back as 1974. As for the label, he adds, “what could be better? Portland loves pork.” NV Baumard “Carte Corail” Rosé Crémant de Loire “This dish reminded me of brunch, and i always want to have bubbles with brunch,” admits Savanna ray. “eggs and potatoes go so well with sparkling wines.” The salmon-hued Baumard is made according to the same method used in Champagne, but sold at a much lower price. “it’s 100 percent cabernet franc, and that earthy, leafy-strawberry quality works really nicely with the pancetta and the brussels sprouts,” says ray. it’s fruity yet subtle, with crisp bubbles that sweep the palate clean after a bite of mouth-coating egg. last but not least, ray adds, “The bubbles are really beautiful.” 2008 Domaine Marcel Deiss Alsace Riesling “For my whole life growing up, i hated brussels sprouts,” recalls David Speer. “My parents would steam them and make the whole house smell like cabbage. now that i’ve learned how to caramelize them, i love them, but they still can be difficult to pair with wine. This riesling works because of its yellow-apple flavors.” Speer, a personal sommelier for Portland collectors who runs weekly tastings and classes out of an eastside warehouse, describes this Deiss as a classic Alsatian riesling, with serious minerality and sweet notes of stone fruit that will pop against hot chiles and salty hash. “And riesling and pork totally love each other; they’re like peas and carrots,” he adds.

The wine eXPerTS: Chris Davis, co-owner, estelle imports Savanna ray, instructor, international Sommelier guild David Speer, owner, red Slate wine

where TO BuY: NV EIEIO & Co. “Swine Wine” Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($21) City Market Fred Meyer northwest Best Korkage wine Shop new Seasons Market happy Valley, hawthorne and Orenco Station Oregon wines on Broadway Pastaworks hawthorne and Mississippi Or by special order, through eieiO & Co. or estelle imports

PORTLAND AIRPORT

503.284.9929

DOWNTOWN PORTLAND

503.223.9510

W W W. T H E R E A L M O T H E R G O O S E . C O M

GIRARDET 53

NV Baumard “Carte Corail” Rosé Crémant de Loire ($21) great wine Buys liner & elsen Market of Choice Or by special order through galaxy wine Company 2008 Domaine Marcel Deiss Alsace Riesling ($24) Fred Meyer hawthorne and hollywood west new Seasons Markets Concordia, happy Valley and Orenco Station Or by special order through Columbia Distributing £

Because nothing says, “I love you” like a bottle of Baco! girardetwine.com

MIXMASTER [ Local bartenders pair spirits with

robust roasts to ward off winter’s chill ]

By ASHLEy gArTLAND

Not to look down on those of us who occasionally spike our mugs of joe with a shot of Baileys or bourbon — you know, to fortify us for ski trips and college allnighters — but given that Portland is an epicenter for both coffee and craft cocktails, why just make do with those impromptu coffee cocktails to warm our winter spirits? We asked bartenders at three respected bars to share their secrets to making a more nuanced coffee cocktail. Trébol’s beverage manager Tony Pepe coached us on how to pair spirits with robust brews, and suggested that certain tequilas work as well with coffee as traditional spirits such as brandy. David Welch, bar manager and co-owner of Lincoln restaurant, revealed a new use for coffee beans in a cordial recipe from Madagascar. And Huber’s Cafe bartender Matt Salminen weighed in on the classic Spanish Coffee that Huber’s has been flaming tableside for decades.

Even the soggiest, gloomiest Portland day will meet its match when you order a well-made coffee cocktail. Liquor plus coffee equals warmth (even if the cocktail is cold). Local bars, such as Huber’s, are a source but you can make your own coffee cocktails at home, too. See tips on Page 57. PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMIE FRANCIS

Tony Pepe’s Cafe Trébol Makes 1 drink Trébol’s beverage manager Tony Pepe keeps a handful of coffee cocktails on his drink menu to cater to the hip, coffee-obsessed Albina Avenue crowds. The Cafe Trébol is a favorite after-dinner drink and an indulgent eye-opener to enjoy over the restaurant’s Sunday brunch as well. Pepe makes the cocktail with Mexican brandy, orange liqueur and a shot of espresso at Trébol. But home bartenders who lack a shiny espresso machine can substitute bold, freshly brewed coffee for the inky espresso. Pepe’s pick is Stumptown Coffee roasters’ complex Hair Bender blend.

1 ounce Presidente Mexican brandy ½ ounce grangala Triple Orange liqueur 3 ounces freshly brewed coffee 2 ounces steamed milk Lightly whipped cream Freshly grated nutmeg Combine the brandy and grangala in an 8-ounce coffee mug. Mix in the coffee and steamed milk. Stir to combine. garnish with whipped cream and freshly grated nutmeg. Serve immediately.

44 Cordial Makes approximately 1 liter Lincoln’s bar manager David Welch makes a mean Spanish Coffee for regulars each winter, but when it comes to his own imbibing preferences he’s more inclined to sip Lincoln’s housemade coffee-and-rum cordial. Making the liqueur requires more patience than mixing up a standard coffee cocktail because the beans require 44 days of steeping in rum before the cordial is ready to drink, but the results create a surprisingly understated and elegant digestif. “People are always intrigued at how subtle the flavors in the cordial are,” Welch says. “If you think of the ingredients in it, they are really bold. Coffee has a strong flavor profile and orange has a strong flavor profile. But the process of letting it mellow for 44 days really makes a big difference. It helps to tame those bold flavors into a subtle drink.”

1 large navel orange 44 coffee beans 1 cup sugar 1 liter white rum Poke 44 1-inch-deep slits all over the orange with a paring knife. Stuff a coffee bean into each slit. Put the orange, sugar and rum into a wide-mouthed jar with a tight-sealing lid. Store and let steep in a cool, dark spot, swirling the jar occasionally, for 44 days. remove and discard the orange and strain the liqueur through a cheesecloth-lined strainer. Transfer to a clean bottle and store in the freezer until ready to drink. Serve neat or over ice.

PHOTOgrAPHy By BETH NAKAMUrA

Whichever drink you try, know that the key to enjoying these coffee cocktails is to first accept that the drinks aren’t meant to be madeto-order like venti lattes with two pumps of hazelnut syrup — and the bartenders like it that way. These drinks are meant to accentuate the characteristics of the rich, full-bodied local beans that form their foundation.

Featured bars trébol 4835 N. Albina Ave., 503-517-9347 trebolpdx.com Lincoln restaurant 3808 N. Williams Ave., No. 127, 503-288-6200 lincolnpdx.com Huber’s Cafe 411 S.W. Third Ave., 503-228-5686 hubers.com

SE 16th Ave

Sellwood neighborhood

SE Bybee

Blvd

Farmhouse Antiques

SE Rural St

Sellwood’s favorite mini-mall! - Vintage jewelry - Hats - Furniture - Cast Iron - Glassware - Pottery - Postcards - Holiday decor – And more! Always buying - 7 dealers. Open daily 11-5.

SE Knapp St

e ES

Madison Park Antiques

SE Rex St SE Milwaukie Ave

d Blv

SE 13th Ave

d oo llw

SE Malden St SE Bidwell St

Well-chosen antiques, art and curiosities 7805 SE 13th Avenue 503.233.3731

8028 SE 13th Avenue 503.232-6757 4

SE Lambert St 3

SE Lexington St 9

CoCo Gets

▲ N

Dressed

SE Miller St 6

SE Spokane St

SE 17th Ave

SE Tacoma St 5 1

SE Harney St 1

“Fun and ﬁne gifts for girls of all ages” Join us at our new location in Westmoreland right next door to our sister store “Coco Gets Dressed”. Still the same charming shop with many treasures straight from the streets of Paris. Candles, lotions, scents, stationary, ribbons and all things feminine. Come see us in our new fabulous home!

Come see what what’s new for Spring! The best from our designers including Cynthia Ashby, Cut Loose and Bryn Walker plus contemporary & trendy jewelry from local artist grayling. Always fashion forward, comfortable and easy care. The ﬁnest collection of HOBO handbags, wallets and clutches reside here too! We’re not teasing when we say, “CoCo Gets Dressed has clothing that tickles your soul.”

7011 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.5999

7007 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.7777

Cravin’ Raven Enriching Sellwood’s status as a healthy-living hub is Cravin’ Raven Organic Bakery, the place that proves you don’t have to use white ﬂour, white sugar, or butter to make delectable treats. Try our healthy and delicious assortment of mufﬁns, cookies, cakes, and assorted treats, all organic and sweetened with agave nectar. Specializing in Gluten-free options. Catering Available.

Explore Portland’s largest and best antiques malls. Celebrating 20 years, Stars Antiques Malls has two locations brimming with thousands of unique items for you and your home. Shop Smart. Shop Stars.

8339 SE 13th Avenue 503-234-0603 www.cravinraven.com

7027 SE Milwauke Avenue 503-239-0346 www.starsantique.com

Sellwood Marketplace

You’ll find something for everyone here! You’ll love our American-made solid wood furniture, upholstery, lighting, signs, weathervanes, rugs, candles and much more. Visit our 21 rooms on 2 floors full of great decorating ideas, many that you won’t find anywhere , but here. You’ll find something new each time you visit. 8203 SE 13th Avenue 503-235-5115 www.americanatheart.us

You are invited to celebrate with us our ﬁrst anniversary party and sale in the Sellwood location Friday February 25th 6-9pm, and Saturday February 26th 10-5pm. Come and browse in person or online an art consignment gallery with over 300 pieces of gently used original Oregon art by listed artists. Above art by Sandra Jones-Campbell.

Wed/Thu/Fri 11-6pm, Sat 10-3pm 7227 SE Milwaukie Ave 503-310-9507

To advertise in Marketplace contact Jeff Brosy at 503.221.8320 or jeffb@sales.oregonian.com

MIXMASTER CONT. Huber’s Cafe’s Spanish Coffee

Finds Old & New

Makes 1 cocktail

Finds Old & New offers a charming blend of old, very old, and not so old, treasures. Specializing in: • Vintage & artisan jewelry • Asian antiques • Furniture • Unique & eclectic ﬁnds We buy and welcome consignments. Open Tuesday to Sunday

To put the popularity of Huber’s Spanish Coffee into perspective, consider that the cafe’s bartenders make about 150 of them on a slow, sunny day and as many as 650 flaming cocktails on a cold winter night. The after-dinner drink is clearly a best-seller, but not only because it looks cool when the bartenders flame it tableside. Huber’s classic cocktail is also a well-balanced winter warmer that cuts through the chill of a cold evening with ease.

7907 SE 13th Avenue 503.235.0852

Moreland Vision Source Come check out our exclusive optical gallery featuring hand-painted stain glass eyewear from Studio3 Occhiali Eyewear imported from Italy. We also carry famous designer eyewear such as Gucci, Liz Claiborne, Silhouette, Prodesign, Lafont, Calvin Klien and Sean John, just to name a few. Stop by and check us out! Hours: Mon-Fri 8:30 - 5:30 6539 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.6008 www.visionsource-moreland.com

For safety purposes, use long matches when making a Spanish Coffee at home. And don’t forgo the small, but important, dash of triple sec. “It’s the secret ingredient. you don’t want to notice it, but if it isn’t there, it’ll taste like something’s off in the drink,” bartender Matt Salminen says. Lime juice granulated sugar ¾ ounce Bacardi 151 rum Dash triple sec (about ¼ ounce) 1½ ounces Kahlúa Freshly brewed coffee Lightly whipped cream, for garnish Freshly grated nutmeg, for garnish Fill an 8-ounce wineglass with hot water to warm the glass. Drain the water and dip the rim of the glass in the lime juice and then the sugar. Add the rum and triple sec. With a long match, carefully light the rum and triple sec, swirling the glass to melt the sugar on the rim. Add the Kahlúa and fill the remainder of the glass with coffee. garnish with whipped cream and nutmeg. Serve immediately.

Coffee Cocktail Wisdom After getting buzzed (with coffee and booze — go slow) while testing these recipes, we discovered some tricks of the trade to perfecting coffee cocktails. select a dark, full-bodied roast. Darker roasts can stand up to the spirits in coffee cocktails and deliver that desired nutty quality. “you want something that is fairly robust so it has character to it,” Welch says. “The lighter, berry-driven flavors in coffees are great on their own, but when you mix them with spirits and cream, those flavors tend to get lost. I prefer darker roasts that have that caramel, rambling quality to them.” Welch appreciates the craftsmanship of ristretto roasters coffees, while Pepe sources bold, brash Stumptown Coffee blends for Trébol’s menu. think outside the box. Traditional coffee-worthy spirits — think Baileys Irish Cream, Kahlúa, grand Marnier and nut-flavored liqueurs — often complement the flavor notes found in coffee. But through trial and error, Pepe discovered that spirits such as tequila have a place in coffee cocktails as well. “We found that reposado tequilas work nicely in coffee drinks because they have a bolder flavor and a little smokiness to them in comparison to silver tequila,” he says. use high-quality garnishes. Toss aside the aerosol can and instead make your own whipped cream to garnish warm coffee cocktails. As a finishing touch, consider a dusting of freshly ground nutmeg or cinnamon or chocolate shavings from a high-quality chocolate bar. £ PHOTOgrAPH By STEvEN gIBBONS

Nob Hill neighborhood sid e

Bu rn

2 NW 24th Ave

d rR

ove est W W

7 NW Vaughn St

Ave

NW Quimby St

Ave

NW Northrup St

NW Kearney St

NW 22nd

NW Irving St

NW Hoyt St

NW Glisan St

NW Davis St

2281 NW Hoyt St Portland, OR 97210 (corner of 23rd and Hoyt) 503-222-5463

NW 22nd Place

NW Everett St

Our unique shop offers the ﬁnest hand-painted European stoneware from Ceramika Artystyczna that is microwave, dishwasher and ovensafe. We also carry linens, antiques and gifts. We welcome your visit and are open everyday between 11am6pm. www.polishpotteryplace.com

NW 23rd

NW Thurman St

NW Pettygrove St

Hand Crafted Stoneware

8 NW 21st

Ave

Salt, Fire & Time Salt, Fire & Time is a Community Supported Kitchen that organizes a weekly pick up of prepared foods sourced locally. We also offer cooking classes and Friday night dinners open to the public. We focus exclusively on nutrient dense, organic foods that help restore your health and our own northwest food heritage. Also available for private parties and catering. Mention MIX and get a free fermented soda! 1902 NW 24th Ave Portland OR 503-208-2758 www.saltﬁreandtime.com

Thinking about changing food for your pet? We carry a large selection of Natural foods for Dogs and Cats. Come and check out our selection of Raw Food such as Nature’s Variety, NW Natural, Primal, Stella & Chewy’s. Here at Nature’s Pet we foster cats from the Columbia Humane Society and try and ﬁnd homes for them. Free underground parking. Open M-F 10 to 7, Saturday 10-6 and Sunday 11 to 5. Stop by and mention this ad for 10% of your entire purchase. 111 NW 21st Ave Portland, OR 503.360.1244 www.naturespetmarket.com

To set an appointment please call 503.228.8363 Mention this ad and receive 10% off your service before March 2011. 1211 NW 23rd Ave Portland, OR www.ausalon.com

Serratto

Looking for a gift that is unique and exciting? Come to Child’s Play! Bananagrams is just one of the thousands of extraordinary toys on our shelves. We can help you ﬁnd the perfect present for a child of any age. Find us on Facebook by searching “Child’s Play Toy Store”!

Celebrate the Holidays with us! Gift Certiﬁcates available. Lunch, Dinner & Happy Hour Seven days a week. Parking in our lot on NW Johnson St. 2112 NW Kearney St. Portland OR 503.221.1195 www.serratto.com

2305 NW Kearney St Portland, OR 503.224.5586 www.childsplayportland.com

Au Salon Au Salon is a full-service Bumble and Bumble hair salon. We have been providing customized hair care in the Nob Hill neighborhood since 1996. We pride ourselves in educating our clients and providing a comfortable family atmosphere. We are now open 7 days a week!

Child’s Play

Food Front • Fine bourbon • Classic cocktails • Southern Cuisine 2075 NW Glisan Street Portland, OR (near the corner of NW 21st and Glisan) 503.222.1056 www.popehouselounge.com

Nob Hill Marketplace

Food Front is NW Portland’s freshest source for local and natural foods including organic produce; ﬁne wines; artisan breads & cheeses; fresh, local meats; and fair trade coffee and chocolate. Whether you’re looking for daily essentials or delightful indulgences, you’ll ﬁnd it at Food Front, naturally. Open 8am-9pm Daily

Urban Fondue Serving a unique dining experience featuring scratch recipe fondues made with local ingredients. Open 7 nights a week 2114 NW Glisan St (next to Bartini) Portland, OR Reservations: 503-242-1400 or www.urbanfondue.com

2375 NW Thurman St. Portland, OR 503.222.5658 www.foodfront.coop

To advertise in Marketplace contact Lindsay Grant at 503.221.8352 or lindsayg@sales.oregonian.com

By John Foyston / PhotograPhy By ross William hamilton

pubcrawl

[ Drink small. Nano-breweries put great effort and care into little batches ]

y day, Mike Wright (above) is an IT project manager for Multnomah County. On evenings and weekends, he presides over Beetje (be-cha) Brewery, perhaps the smallest federally licensed brewery in Portland and one of a growing flock of nano-breweries such as Natian Brewery, Mt Tabor Brewing, Captured by Porches Brewing Company, Vertigo Brewing, Heater Allen Brewing and others.

pubcrawlcont.

Step out for a romantic

Valentine’s Dinner at Aquariva Monday, February 14th

3-course Chef dinner ~ $40 per person 4650 SW Macadam Ave. ~ Portland, OR 97239

Reservations Recommended: 503-802-5850 or online at www.aquarivaportland.com Lunch M-F 11am-2:30pm ~ Dinner Nightly at 5pm-10:30pm ~ Sunday Brunch 10am-3pm Now Featuring our Build Your Own Mimosa and Bloody Mary Bar!

Creative & UniqUe Designs sinCe 1970

oK, microbreweries you’ve heard of, especially living in Beervana, but what is a nanobrewery? not well-defined, as it turns out. a microbrewery is generally recognized as any brewery that makes 15,000 barrels of beer (645,000 gallons) or fewer annually. Were the conventions of scientific notation to be strictly applied to the brewing industry, then a nano-brewery would brew no more than 15 barrels (645 gallons) a year, because by definition nano is 1,000 times smaller than micro. But 15 barrels of beer a year isn’t much for an ambitious home-brewer, let alone a brewery with commercial pretensions, so we’re likely stuck with a looser definition of nano, one that means, essentially, small. Beetje Brewery certainly lives up to that. Even the name is Flemish for “little bit” — a tribute to Wright’s wife, Kaatje, who was born in the Flemish town of roeselare, where rodenbach beer is brewed. “When people hear that you’re brewing on a one-barrel system, they might say, ‘that’s the most ridiculous thing i’ve ever heard,’ ” Wright says, “and perhaps they’re right. i know i won’t be supporting my family with the amount of beer i can make on this system, but i am

having fun and making some beers that i want to make.” “at the risk of being too romantic,” he says, “imagine a small, rustic farmhouse brewery (in the inner city). the beers are generally going to be everyday drinking beers, not super-complex monsterbombs. there are plenty of breweries covering that area. i enjoy spending time with friends, eating good food, and drinking a sessionable beverage is the driving force behind the type of beers i make.” Belgian styles have predominated among the beers he’s brewed in the few months since Beetje became legal — to Wright’s surprise, by the way: he submitted applications to the olCC in the summer of 2009, fully expecting them to be tossed on the “laughable” pile. instead, he got some traction with the state, and submitted papers for federal approval from the alcohol, tobacco tax and trade Bureau, or ttB, which approved his plans last summer. then angelo Deieso invited him to submit a beer to Brewpublic’s microhopic ii festival, thus giving us our first taste of Beetje beers. he’s got an american-style pale ale in the works, dosed with Brettanomyces bruxellensis to add a touch of Belgium,

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but Beetje has rolled out no iPas yet, nor does it plan to in the immediate future. instead, his Urban Farmhouse ale may be the closest thing to a flagship brew so far; it’s a light, golden ale, slightly tart and a perfect thirst quencher as well as a complement to many foods. the B-side ale is a modification of the Urban Farmhouse recipe, with some of the pilsner malt removed in favor of rye, and the munich and crystal malts gone altogether, plus a more conservative dose of bittering and flavor hops, but the beer is not that different from Urban Farmhouse ale, he says, which is testament to the Belgian farmhouse-style yeast that he says does all the talking in these beers. little Brother, named after his young son, Evan, is a fairly straightforward dark, strong Belgian ale of 8.5 percent alcohol. topped with a creamy tan head, the beer is dominated by caramel and candy flavors and offers a hint of heat on the finish and is an especially satisfying beer to sip slowly and long. Wright is a longtime homebrewer, unsurprisingly, and his neat little brewery in the garage of his southeast Portland home looks like a home-brewer’s dream setup. the vessels are gleaming stainless steel, the walls are neatly sheathed in shiny corrugated metal for ease of cleaning, and the hoses and connecting lines are coiled away shipshape and Bristol fashion. a couple of big molded plastic fermenters are live in a separate room that’s heated for these months and has an air conditioner poking through the wall for summer. about the only jarring note is the clubfooted, wheeled contraption that brewer teri Fahrendorf aptly named the lunar lander when she visited the brewery. “that was a pretty good deal,” Wright says of the brew kettle he inherited from the old yamhill Brewing, where things were built stoutly indeed. “it was given to me by the

ian guinness of natian Brewery (right) looks at nano-brewing as a big step toward getting some brand recognition. But all those small batches mean an intense workload.

pubcrawlcont.

fellow who owns the green Dragon building (where yamhill Brewing once was) and it’s stainless steel, though i had to spend a lot of time cleaning it up. and when i boil in it, i have to be really careful because it’s easy to boil over, but if i watch it, i can boil 50 to 55 gallons at a time.” that’s just shy of a barrel and a half, and bespeaks a sort of patience with quirks and crotchets that you imagine the shift brewers at Widmer Brothers don’t need in their skill sets. and it leads us to the central fact of nanobrewing: it takes just as much time to mash, boil and ferment a barrel and a half of beer as it does the hundred or more barrels that the Widmer or Deschutes brewers make in one batch. “nano isn’t a comment on quality,” says ian guinness, who with his partner, natalia laird, runs natian Brewery — motto: brewing (nearly) one pint at a time — on northeast sandy Boulevard. “it is a way to show the public how hard that brewery is working,” guinness says. “natian was at the oregon Brewers Festival, we had to brew 15 batches of honey red to supply all those kegs. most of the other breweries there supplied the festival with half a batch, maybe a full batch. one comment was written that natian was, at least, the hardest-working brewery at that festival.” natian is one of several breweries that started nano to get their brand out there, but — like Vertigo and others — is now bowing to the realities of production and enlarging from nanosystems to larger brewhouses. “We are still brewing on our onebarrel system,” says mike Kinion of

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nano-brewing usually means nano-facilities, too, so full-fledged tasting rooms aren’t necessarily part of the program. Eric surface of mt tabor Brewing borrows space for his so-called tasting room at Vintage Cocktail lounge on southeast stark street.

nano-breweries to check out: Natian Brewery, northeast Portland: www.natianbrewery.com Vertigo Brewing in hillsboro, “but we are working on getting our sevenbarrel brew system up and running also. last year we managed to produce about 126 barrels; this year we’ll produce around 275 barrels, all on a onebarrel brew system, which means we have a lot of 16- and 18-hour days. Call us crazy, but we love it. to the brewers here at Vertigo, nano-brewing means passionate, dedicated craft brewers, brewing hard to make quality beers in small quantities.” Breakside Brewery recently expanded its brew system, too, though brewer Ben Edmunds considers it a pub brewery and not a nano-brewery. “our new three-barrel system is large enough to cover in-house demand,” Edmunds says, “but would never be able to keep up with an ambitious distribution or packaging schedule. With our old nano-system the brew days were just as long, and the considerations for production and cellaring that go into the half-barrel pilot/nano-

batches are identical to the ones required for the bigger system. “i guess the fun in the smaller setup is that it allows for a truly high level of experimentation. as a startup brewpub, we would never have brewed threebarrel batches of beers like the kombucha barley wine or imperial pumpkin cream stout; ironically, it was through this experimentation that we found part of our identity as a brewpub; we recognized that there’s a great level of interest in one-off, nano-batches. “now, even with the bigger system in place, we’ll continue to produce some beers on the old, teeny system because we really want to embrace the level of creativity that it affords — that’s where the nano-advantage lives on for us.” Look for Beetje beers and those from other Portland nano-breweries at the Hawthorne Hophouse, 4111 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503-477-9619.

Vertigo Brewing, hillsboro: www.vertigobrew.com Mt Tabor Brewing, southeast Portland: www.mttaborbrewing.com These pubs have nanosystems, and pub brewers invite local home-brewers to brew special collaboration beers with them: Hopworks Urban Brewery: www.hopworksbeer.com Coalition Brewing: www.coalitionbrewing.com Green Dragon Brewpub & Bistro: www.pdxgreendragon. com £

scene Our picks for what to eat where COMPILED BY: Grant Butler CONTRIBUTORS: Grant Butler Kathy Hinson Dennis Peck Jake Ten-Pas David Sarasohn Michael C. Zusman Amy Wang

Get mOre Of the POrtland scene, at mixPdx.cOm

Best of 2010

As a new year gets under way, a look at the new spots that made last year so delicious. Ate-oh-Ate 2524 E. Burnside St. 503-445-6101 ate-oh-ate.com Hawaiian food will never be confused with haute cuisine. With its emphasis on starch, mayonnaise and pork in various forms, it has all the subtlety and health benefits of Jewish deli food. Still, every culinary compass point has its place and die-hard adherents to extol its virtues. Indeed, the food of Hawaii is an interesting amalgam of tastes from Japan, China, Portugal, the U.S. mainland and the islands themselves. Any reluctance to try Ate-oh-Ate — the name is a play on Hawaii’s 808 area code — might be overcome by knowing that the savvy crew behind it also operates the insanely popular Simpatica Dining Hall and Laurelhurst Market steakhouse. There’s plenty of thought behind the seemingly simple setup. The decor is lowkey. The soundtrack is a live webstream of the Big Island’s Native FM radio. You can almost hear the waves lapping at the shore and feel the gentle island breezes. The menu is meatcentric, but vegetarians can pick their way through sides that include cucumber kimchi, pickled daikon and sweet potato tempura. Hawaiian-food haters can opt for a burger — though we wonder why they would be here at all. Bunk Bar 41 S.E. Taylor St. 503-894-9708 bunkbar.com Bunk Sandwiches, the cramped sandwich shop on Southeast Morrison Street that seems to have a constant line out the door, finally has a big brother. The long-anticipated Bunk Bar has high ceilings and more than 1,700 square feet of floor space. Unlike its open-early-in-theday-dining sibling, it offers a

Tasty n Sons concise selection of unfussy adult beverages to pair with sandwiches generally recognized as the best in town, and its hours stretch from midafternoon until the wee hours. An eye-catching full-wall mural by local artist Casey Burns invokes a railroad theme, mirroring the tracks that run just behind the restaurant. Toss in red vinyl booths lining the window along Water Avenue; a scattering of tables and faux leather rolling captain’s chairs; gold velour curtains and a couple of vintage pinball machines, and you have yourself a hungry, happy hipster hangout.

Fin 1852 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-517-7770 finpdx.com Portland should have great seafood restaurants, but there are none. Instead, a handful of halibut and salmon standards populate area menus with the mind-numbing sameness of a New Age chant. Fin is a sincere effort to chuck the old playbook and lead the program in a bold new direction. Ensconced in the compact space that was formerly Sel Gris, Fin is limited by its seating capacity and a market that tends to

emphasize price over value — a problem when working with seafood, which costs a lot and spoils quickly. Nevertheless, the Fin crew is dedicated to a small- and medium-plate menu in which every major element is plucked from the depths, then offered in an ensemble priced between $10 and $20. Major kudos are due for creativity in presentation and the courage to subvert the dominant paradigm. Improvement from one early visit to a second was discernible and impressive. PHOTOGRAPY BY

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Spints Alehouse 401 N.E. 28th Ave. 503-847-2534 spintspdx.com Spints Alehouse physically resides at the corner of Northeast Flanders Street and 28th Avenue, but its culinary heart beats at the crash-prone intersection of Portland eccentric and German conventional. At Spints, a cross-cultural understanding has been achieved at the dining table, and its patrons are emerging triumphant. Owner Alyssa Gregg is at the center of the metaphysical détente. She understands German food but is averse to serving it without a few twists. There are borrowings from neighboring nations; deep bows to our local seasonal bounty; and a manifest intent to lighten a cuisine commonly regarded as heavy and uninspired. Personifying the cultural convergence is Gregg herself, the woman working the room. The menu at Spints comprises short, frequently changing lists of appetizers, entrees, sides and desserts with another “bar menu/happy hour” section, where Spints is at its quirkiest. Though Gregg is serious about food, this remains above all a place to drink. For those passionate about their libations, Spints could limit its edible options to pickled eggs from a jar and the world would still be good.

Tasty n Sons 3808 N. Williams Ave. 503-621-1400 tastynsons.com Tasty n Sons’ message to the world is that it is not only breaking out of its weekend confines but also out of all limitations on what the menu might be. Tasty n Sons is based on the idea that you can turn just about anything into a brunch dish by putting a fried egg on top of it, and it’s remarkable how often this turns out to be true. The success of this strategy is measured by another burst through boundaries: Every weekend the crowd waiting for a seat spills out onto North Williams Avenue, clutching coffee cups and anticipating Moroccan chicken hash — topped, of course, with an over-easy egg. The hash makes a momentous morning, and probably the first time you’ve ever had harissa crème fraîche at brunch. Tasty n Sons, the new outpost from the folks behind tapas superbar Toro Bravo, also sets out a range of dishes more familiar in the oeuf oeuvre, but manages to put its own spin on all of them. As in most breakfast places, there is an omelet, in a lacy folded-over incarnation, but here it recently enfolded boudin blanc sausage with asparagus and Dijon, pungent mouthfuls that would make their own demands for toast. Then there are the things you might not expect. Tender pork

Acadia cutlets with sautéed spinach turn out to go warmly with a fried egg — also available with just the sautéed spinach, in case you’re having brunch with Popeye.

Wintertime comfort Acadia 1303 N.E. Fremont St. 503-249-5001 creolapdx.com Magic is hard to find anymore. But combine a neighborhood feel with committed staff and a menu whose high regional ambitions are cloaked in down-home humility, and you’ve got it. Acadia is such a place. Regulars pack the front tables in a storefront space split between buzzing bar and trim modern dining room. And they come, always, for two-fisted eating and drinking on full-frontal Creole cuisine.

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Traditionalists will find that the entree that suffered death as a cliché is alive here and smacking back: shrimp Creole, featuring spiced mammoth gulf shrimp, slightly underdone to plump perfection, atop fresh spinach and al dente popcorn rice. Read: Don’t mistake this for a Bourbon Street joke stuck in time. The Country Cat 7937 S.E. Stark St. 503-408-1414 thecountrycat.net A Cubist drawing of a feline graces the signage of this Montavilla neighborhood spot. Perched on his haunches, he’s grounded and modern — a befitting icon for the comfortable vibe and 21st-century Southern cooking at Adam Sappington’s joint. Sappington fries up a mean mess of chicken, with a crisp crust and moist meat. But the first bite reveals the upgrades:

This is a boneless bird, for easier eating, and a drizzle of maple syrup adds a pleasant sweetness. Whether grilling or frying, these touches help Country Cat contend for the best home-style cooking in town. The flavors and retromodern atmosphere respect the neighborhood’s working-class roots without going overboard on the Americana thing. Sit a spell at one of the many comfortable wooden booths; the attentive tattooed servers may not call you “Hon,” but they won’t rush your chatting and chewing. Grüner 527 S.W. 12th Ave. 503-241-7163 grunerpdx.com Chris Israel is one of Portland’s culinary treasures, and he’s taken a bold step by featuring the cooking of PHOTOGRAPY BY TIM LaBARGE

J’aime...

that’s perfect for sharing, such as a bowl of Manila clams in a garlic-fueled broth ($5) and an array of antipasti (Italian meat and cheeses, $6) that includes the kitchen’s own pepperoni. Bigger dishes won’t set you back much more: Risotto, loaded with seasonal vegetables, runs $7; and a bowl of spaghetti and meatballs is just $5, though if you’re famished you can add additional meatballs for 75 cents each. The pork tenderloin steak is a full meal, served with fries, for $8. Northern Europe at his restaurant. Bold because we normally don’t think of Austria, Germany, Eastern Europe or Switzerland when we have serious food cravings. But this elegant, charming spot will change your mind. Grüner’s success stems from its blend of flair and style with homey dishes that seem to emerge right from your grandmother’s pot. Don’t miss braised beef goulash, Hungarian short ribs and a choucroute garni laden with sausages, cider-braised pork belly and pork tenderloin all done in-house, the sauerkraut creamy and lovingly nestled in the curve of the plump bratwurst. Paley’s Place 1204 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-243-2403 paleysplace.net France meets Portland for a date at the farmers market at this outpost of graciousness and comforting bistro fare. The best dishes sing of invention and intelligence and ingredients that show off chef Vitaly Paley’s expansive network of providers. Be it Oregon grass-fed beef or handpicked farm greens, the guy is militant about how it all fits together — not just fresh flavors, but the economics of supporting the growers. The menu wisely keeps a strong core of signature dishes. But each season brings intriguing changeups — such as a hearty wintertime cassoulet, ravioli stuffed with rabbit, or creamy risotto studded with bits of Oregon Dungeness crab. Sure, not every dish scales the Cascades. But there’s a reason Paley’s Place stays on the top rung of Portland’s essential food destinations.

PHOTOGRAPY BY TIM LaBARGE

Screen Door 2337 E. Burnside St. 503-542-0880 screendoorrestaurant.com Planning an outing to this spectacularly popular Southern joint — known for James Beardian portions and fair prices — presents a few necessary decisions: Dinner or brunch? Go with a group so you can reserve a table or brave the inevitable wait? Whatever the approach, satisfaction is likely the outcome. Go for brunch and you can feast on impeccable biscuits, snappy vegetable hash and crispy bacon smothered in brown sugar and pecans. Wait until dinner and you’re rewarded with farm-fresh sides (get your fill with the Screen Door Plate: a trio of sides plus a slab of corn bread), goose-eggsized hush puppies and herby shrimp and grits. An exceptionally speedy kitchen and pro wait staff help minimize the amount of time you stand in line and accommodate large parties of all ages without complaint. The constant thrum may not suit those in pursuit of peace and quiet, but it’s a bonus for parents: Even the howl of an irate baby can’t rise above the din here.

On the cheap Bastas Italian Restaurant & Bar 410 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-274-1572 bastastrattoria.com One of the best places around for stretching your money is this Northwest Portland Italian spot, where the happy hour is served from 5 p.m. until closing daily. At Bastas, the bargain bites don’t stop, regardless of the hour. There’s excellent appetizer fare

Cruise In Country Diner 9785 S.W. River Road, Hillsboro 503-628-0500 cruiseincountry.com This place is not what you’d expect to find in the middle — if not the middle, then within shouting distance of the middle — of nowhere. Other than it’s a burger joint, which you might expect. And it’s decorated in a ’50s cars motif, which, while an impressive collection, is also somewhat expected. And it’s staffed by the friendliest waitresses you’ll ever meet, which, we guess, you might expect, too. But the food will catch you by surprise — unless you walked in expecting food that is organic, locally grown and that includes mahi-mahi and gluten-free and vegetarian options. At Nancy and Terry Hummel’s restaurant, which used to be the Twin Oaks Tavern, the hamburgers ($7.75-$9.75) are made of Painted Hills natural beef and served on organic buns baked for the diner by Dave’s Killer Bread (the glutenfree bun is from Laurel’s, a Tigard bakery). They range from a standard cheeseburger ($7.75) to burgers with blue cheese crumbles and natural bacon. There are also three vegetarian burgers, the mahi-mahi sandwich and free-range chicken and pulled-pork sandwiches. All are served with a side salad or allyou-can eat french fries, made from local potatoes and cooked to order. Lucky Strike 3862 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-206-8292 luckystrikepdx.com Hot Pepper Chicken Bath doesn’t sound like anything you’d find in a spa, but this signature dish at Lucky Strike (a value-driven and heat-focused Szechuan restaurant

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that recently relocated from outer East Portland to the heart of the Hawthorne District) will open your pores quicker than any botanical elixir or mud wrap. Picture a bowl with a hundred dry hot red peppers covering the surface and chunks of chicken that, like sinners struggling through hell’s flames, are buried beneath those tongues of combustion. You can douse the fires with a disk of silken chilled tofu custard. It’s so soothing, not only delivering cryogenic pleasure but also reactivating your will to re-enter the torrid zone. If you’re hoping for rice to provide a similar cool-down, just make sure it’s plain white. Otherwise, the terrific kimchi fried rice, permeated with crushed red pepper, will simply reignite your taste buds. For the cautious diner, there are plenty of old standbys — sweet-and-sour pork, orange chicken, beef with broccoli — but ordering these at Lucky Strike would be like having halibut at a steakhouse. Mike’s Drive-In 3045 S.E. Harrison St., Milwaukie 503-654-0131 Burger joints play a double role in our lives. Not only do they satisfy our hunger at a reasonable price, they take us back to a time when burgers were the best food we could think of. If you’re old enough, they might even remind you of a time when independent patty slingers were as numerous as the big chains that have come to dominate the burger world. Whether it’s hunger or nostalgia you’re looking to satisfy, Mike’s Drive-In will do the trick. The local chain has three locations, in Sellwood, Oregon City and at the corner of Oregon 224 and Harrison in Milwaukie, where we stopped. You order at the counter or a walk-up window, then

plop down at a picnic table to enjoy the night air while you wait. Mike’s differentiates itself pretty quickly from some other burger shacks by offering fresh, local ingredients. When marionberries are in season, they use them in their soft-serve milkshakes, and there’s always Dave’s Killer Bread on the menu. The Buffalo Burger ($4.75) is a specialty of the house, and you can get bacon and Tillamook Extra Sharp White Cheddar added to it. Buffalo is known for being leaner than beef, but the burger hardly feels dry. With the bacon and cheddar, it’s plenty salty and buttery. Red Star Tavern & Roast House 503 S.W. Alder St. 503-222-0005 redstartavern.com Happy hours often seem unhappily skewed toward those who can leave work early enough to hit the bar before the 6 p.m. cutoff. Great for them, but what about the rest of us? Red Star comes to the rescue with its happy half-day — 4 to 8 p.m. every day. Word’s out, so be prepared to contend with a lively scene and full house, but a well-timed entry or the patience for a short wait will get you a table or booth. The happy hour menu doesn’t skimp; a recent version has 18 food items, divided into $3 appetizers (labeled “for your mouth”) and $3 small plates (“for your stomach”). You can find typical bar-menu apps, such as crab dip, or go more exotic with green chile fritters. The sliders, a screaming deal at two to a plate, have five varieties, from high-end short rib pot roast with horseradish cream to the grilled-cheese comfort of Tillamook cheddar with tomato. PHOTOGRAPY BY BENJAMIN BRINK

neiGhbOrhOOd favOrites nOrtheast Authentica: In 2006, when Oswaldo Bibiano opened a cozy Mexican restaurant highlighting specialties from his native Guerrero, it was more curiosity than crave fest. Not any longer. Bibiano has developed confidence and creativity as a chef and restaurateur — and it shows in a menu set to satisfy both culinary adventurers and those for whom tacos and tamales define a Mexican meal. (5507 N.E. 30th Ave.; 503-287-7555; autenticaportland. com) Back to Eden Bakery Boutique: Standouts at this all-vegan bakery include strawberry-hazelnut layer cake, pumpkin Whoopie Pies and carrot cake, as well as savory tarts alongside a cup of brewed-to-order coffee. (2217 N.E. Alberta St.; 503-477-5022; backtoedenbakery.com) Firehouse: This is the kind of place that you’d be happy to have in your neighborhood. In a deeply cool, early 20th-century firehouse, it carries a warmth and coziness only bolstered by a wood-burning oven, service that’s far more than neighborly and solid dishes under $18. (711 N.E. Dekum St.; 503-954-1702; firehousepdx.com) Kir: More Parisan than Portland, the intimate candlelit nook provides well-priced, mostly European wines and simple, tasty snacks. Owner-cook Amalie Roberts puts her low-key, chic touch on every aspect of Kir, and her time abroad shows in a feel for Provençal flavors. (22 N.E. Seventh Ave.; 503-232-3063; kirwinebar.com) Laurelhurst Market: Simpatica’s meat masters create a neighborhood steakhouse, complete with an in-house butcher counter and impressive array of cocktails. (3155 E. Burnside St.; 503-2063099; laurelhurstmarket.com) Navarre: This uniquely Portland place serves farm-fresh, superhandcrafted, European-style

meals nightly. Weekends feature a relaxed breakfast and lunch running throughout the day. (10 N.E. 28th Ave.; 503-232-3555; navarreportland.blogspot.com) Ned Ludd: Owner Jason French and former owner Ben Meyer transformed a former pizzeria, repurposing as much as possible, including the attractive brick fireplace (there’s no stove!) that dominates the open kitchen. The menu is well-rounded: snacklike options to accompany wines and brews; appetizers and mains that speak to the traditions of homey European cuisine. (3925 N.E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.; 503-288-6900; nedluddpdx.com) Noble Rot: One of the city’s best wine bars also has one of the most dramatic views of Portland’s skyline. Chef Leather Storrs cooks a great onion tart, as well as more complex delights. Look for wine flights that explore unusual wine regions. (1111 E. Burnside St., fourth floor, 503-233-1999; noblerotpdx.com) Pambiche: Lunch and dinner menus feature interesting sandwiches, sizzling pork dishes, prawns in a range of sauces, Caribbean empanadas and stews laden with saffron, raisins and almonds. Desserts, a Pambiche signature, include such Cubano favorites as banana rum cake with sweet piña colada “salsa.” (2811 N.E. Glisan St.; 503-2330511; pambiche.com) Tabla Mediterranean Bistro: Tabla is on its game these days, delivering what diners want now more than ever: a great value. The space is long and narrow, tables tight, opening into a wider area in the back. Counter seats overlooking the open kitchen give a close-up view of the hot saucepan action. (200 N.E. 28th Ave.; 503-238-3777; tabla-restaurant. com)

fOr a cOmPlete listinG Of Our dininG reviews GO tO mixPdx.cOm

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hiGh five rOmance, rOmance On Valentine’s Day — or any day when you want a meal with a dash of romance in the air — these favorite Portland restaurants are sure to set hearts aflutter. — Compiled by Grant Butler

Castagna: The Oregonian’s 2010 Restaurant of the Year has completely reinvented itself, thanks to the amazing cooking skills of chef Matt Lightner, who draws upon his experiences in Spain, Denmark, California and Oregon to create menus that break down the proteinstarch-vegetable trinity. What has remained constant is the elegantly appointed dining room, where the volume never gets out of control, allowing for intimate conversations. 1752 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-231-7373 castagnarestaurant.com

Departure: This Asian-themed restaurant, perched at the very top of downtown’s Macy’s and The Nines hotel, had uneven cooking when it first opened. But last year’s addition of former Saucebox chef Greg Gourdet to the kitchen has helped turn the ship around. For a romantic touch, focus on foods that are perfect for sharing, such as skewers that have been grilled over petrified Japanese charcoal, or dim sum staples like pork buns. When making a reservation, ask for a table near one of the windows, where you can drink in dramatic views of downtown and the West Hills while sipping a creative cocktail. 525 S.W. Morrison St. 503-802-5370 departureportland.com Fenouil: With its crackling fireplaces, Nordic lodge decor and large windows looking out on serene Jamison Square, this Pearl District French restaurant has long been a glamorous favorite for

Fenouil romantic dinners, even if the food wasn’t particularly remarkable. That changed last year when chef Jake Martin arrived from the nowclosed Carlyle Restaurant, taking the kitchen talent into the stratosphere. The menu focuses on pristine heirloom vegetables along with carefully sourced meat and seafood, and the marriage of Northwest ingredients with French technique yields many surprises. 900 N.W. 11th Ave. 503-525-2225 fenouilinthepearl.com Metrovino: What’s a romantic celebration without wine? This dynamite wine-focused restaurant is certainly up to the task with an Enomatic wine system offering more than 50 choices available for small tastes or

single glasses. That lets diners craft their own drinking destiny, pairing specific pours to go with dishes from chef Gregory Denton, whose rich and hearty cooking style balances technique with creativity. For dessert, there’s sheer decadence with a chocolate espresso cake, plus a selection of five hard-to-find cheeses, all with suggestions for matching aperitifs. 1139 N.W. 11th Ave. 503-517-7778 metrovinopdx.com Paley’s Place: Under Kimberly Paley’s graceful tutelage, the dining room deftly straddles the local line that divides cement floor/ exposed ductwork/wear-your-grubbies places from rare-for-Portland, white tablecloth/hovering servers/

food-as-church establishments. Call it cosseting casual elegance. Meanwhile, chef Vitaly Paley’s recent adoption of a daily changing menu blends old-favorite house “classics” — most notably, crispy sweetbreads with chestnut spaetzle ($15 half portion/$29 full) — with a slate of entrees that hew reverentially to fresh/local/seasonal orthodoxy. The carefully curated wine list features an array of some of the best Northwest pinot noir, plus premium selections from France — just the thing for a special occasion. 1204 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-243-2403 paleysplace.net PHOTOGRAPH BY ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON