MIX Magazine July/August 2010 by Mix Magazine

Portland’s ortlands Magazine g eo off F Food ood + Drink July/August J ulyy/August / g ’10 10 Po

Hurray for Oregon craft beer people Farm-to-table cocktails Wine from a box Pingpong and chicken

HOW TO GRILL BEEF JULY/AUGUST 2010

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editor’s note As you read this July/August issue of MIX, I hope it’s warm and sunny. I hope the sky is blue, the breeze is soft and the markets are overflowing with summer goodness. As I write this editor’s note, that is not the case. It’s rainy, it’s kinda cold, the wind blew over my entire 4-foot-high stand of English peas, and while the farmers markets are up and running, everyone’s pretty grumpy. I heard one guy say, “The slugs must be falling out of the sky with the rain — they’ve eaten my whole zucchini crop.” This is not to complain. Rain makes things grow, including my little tomato forest that I’m planting in the photo. But, rather, this is to talk about how this magazine gets put together, because even though we’re sort of a monthly magazine (10 times a year), our process is all over the calendar. The final touches such as my note (and Want to be sure you all the other stuff I’m get every issue of MIX? way past deadline on) Subscribe! come in about three 10 issues, $19.95 weeks before the Go to mixpdx.com magazine goes to the

Martha Holmberg, editor mix.martha.holmberg@gmail.com PHoToGRAPH By CHARloTTE UMANoFF

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printer. That’s when the advertisements happen, too. But the big pieces — such as articles where there’s lots of photography and reporting — are conceived months ago and in full swing about three months before the cover date. Which, in this case, would have been around April. So how come things look so dry in the pictures? For the stories that are truly seasonal — where we need to see the outdoors, where we need to use produce that’s only available seasonally (have you ever tried to find a pomegranate in August?), where people need to wear tiny tank tops and flipflops — we produce those a whole year ahead of time and then pretend that it’s this current year. In this issue, we’ve had Friday Night Dinner Party and the tuna story in the can (I was dying to make that pun) since last summer. When it was warm, sunny and people were happy to wear flip-flops. It works, though it gets complicated

sometimes, like when rancher Cory Carman was on our cover looking beautiful and very pregnant, even though her baby was probably chewing on the cover of the magazine by the time it came out a year after the photos were made. And it can be hard to project a year ahead, as you can imagine — what will we want to cook, eat and drink a year from now? So some stories do get produced closer to publication, and we just cross our fingers that we can pull it off. The day we shot the “How to Grill Beef” story (Page 28) was the renegade sunny day in a pack of dismal ones. Creating magazines is about creating an authentic experience, and sometimes, oddly enough, the only way to be authentic is to fake it.

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JULY/AUG 28

MEET THE MEATS Advice from some butcher types on how to step away from the rib-eye and try a new cut of beef

FIVE FOR THE FUTURE Meet some people who are reinventing the joy of drinking beer

48 WE CANNED TUNA

Sure, berries are nice, but step up your canning game with fresh albacore from the coast IN EVERY ISSUE 12 STARTERS Camden’s catsup, finishing last year’s jam, Paley’s at 15

55 SELECTS The summer smackdown of boxed wines

69 EAT HERE/ JACKSONVILLE A tourist destination that tastes good

17 WALKABOUT Making the food scene in Lake Oswego

< 60 MIXMASTER Shaking up seasonal cocktails

72 SCENE What to eat where

22 FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER PARTY Pingpong and Pisco Sours

65 GOOD CHEESE Cheddar gets a buzz on

ON THE COVER David Kreifels flips a skirt steak; see recipes Page 32. PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA

MIXPDX.COM MIX is now 10 issues a year! It’s easy to subscribe online — go to MIXPDX.COM and click on “subscribe.” You can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixpdx.com, so get clicking and start eating.

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john foyston is a Portland writer who has written extensively about Oregon craft brewing (and many other subjects, including giant steam locomotives and the Lord of the Dance) in The Oregonian since 1987. He was all set to interview some of craft brewing’s pioneers for Oregon Craft Beer Month 2010, the 25th year since brewpubs became legal in the state, but then realized that while Beervana’s heritage is priceless, its real strength is continuity — if it weren’t for the equally beerpassionate younger folks coming into the culture, Beervana would just fade away. Luckily, as you’ll read in “Five for the Future,” that ain’t gonna happen. Page 37.

TAKE A TOUR WIN AN i PAD C OME SEE F O R YO U RSE L F why apartment living at Indigo

A PA R T M E N T S

corey arnold, 34, is a photographer and Alaska commercial fisherman. He has spent a good portion of his adult life working on a crab boat in the Bering Sea and running a sockeye salmon fishing operation in Bristol Bay, Alaska. Corey has traveled the world photographing for magazines like Esquire, Monocle, Outside and Men’s Health. Photographing tuna fishermen for MIX mag fell right in line with his life project: chronicling the commercial fishing industry worldwide. You can find Corey’s large-format art prints at Charles A. Hartman Fine Art in Portland. Page 48.

is all about awesome. Register to win an Apple iPad. We’ll have a drawing at the end of each month, so don’t delay. Sign up online for a tour at:

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OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS grant butler, jason cohen, katherine cole, leslie cole, ashley gartland, martha holmberg, tami parr, lynn and ron penner-ash, jackie and adam sappington, michael Zusman OTHER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS/ ILLUSTRATORS faith cathcart , mike davis, jamie francis, torsten kjellstrand, tim labarge, beth nakamura, randy l. rasmussen

Portland-based journalist lucy burningham will do anything to make her pantry a more delicious place, which is why she rolled up her sleeves for a tuna canning project at the beach. Even though her wedding ring smelled like fish for a week after the adventure, which greatly pleased her cat, she wouldn’t miss tuna canning again this fall. When she’s not putting up food or brewing beer, Lucy writes for The New York Times, Imbibe, Sunset and more. Page 48.

motoya nakamura on his work for this edition of MIX: “I have photographed quite a lot for the MIX, but the assignment I got this time was perfect for me. I love meat and I grill in my backyard often, but I can never master how to grill right. Photographing the grill masters was a fun and tasty assignment. I enjoyed photographing, smelling, hurting my eyes with smoke, and ultimately tasting a little.” Page 28.

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starters “Being a Packers bar is really cool. It’s not a food crowd, not a beer crowd, but football is part of the community. During the football season, everybody wears green and gold: It’s church.” — Sarah Pederson of the bar Saraveza

Page 37

“If you really want to come up with interesting and creative cocktails, I would move away from buying a cocktail book and buy a farm-to-table cookbook.” — Wildwood bartender Ryan Csanky

Page 60

read this now eating local Many cookbooks celebrate the farm-to-table movement, but the just-published “eating Local” by janet Fletcher is the pick of the crop, awash with glorious photos of farmers’ faces, rural places and good things to eat, and recipes that set your mouth watering — and your feet running to the nearest farmers market. Bonus: One of the 10 small farmers profiled is Oregon’s own Shari Sirkin of Troutdale’s Dancing roots Farm. $35, Andrews McMeel publishing. — LeSLIe COLe

obsessive

Camden’s catchy catsup Does Micah Camden ever sleep? You’d think with three restaurants under his belt (Yakuza Lounge, DOC and Fats) and a fourth on the way — a burger joint — Camden would have enough on his plate. You would be wrong. Breathless with excitement, Camden burbled about his latest idea: Camden’s Catsup, coming soon to a grocery store aisle near you. The inspiration, in the man’s own words: “I’m grocery shopping in the condiment aisle and I notice something amazing. There are hundreds of salad dressings, 50 or so barbecue sauces, 30-plus bottles of mustard, 10 or so different types of mayo, but only four bottles of ketchup.” Then there was that two-plus-two moment that inventors (and inveterate entrepreneurs) seem uniquely to experience. Camden had been making ketchup for years at Yakuza Lounge to serve with his popular Kobe beef burger. One patron from New York City — obviously with more money than common sense — begged Camden to ship him some of that special ketchup. Months later, with assurances that the New Yorker’s friends and family all loved the stuff, the New Yorker begged again. And then, again. Camden’s friends and family told him that he should bottle

the stuff and sell it. And finally he thought, why not? The gears started whirring and the research began. Ketchup and catsup are the same thing, he learned, though catsup is the more traditional name. Hmm — what about making healthy ketchup/catsup? The corporate gunk is full of corn syrup. Not his. And what about all the naturally occurring antioxidant, maybe cancer-fighting lycopene? A super selling point. And to seal the deal, Camden hears from an investor who says to add hemp for its fiber and omega-3 content. Brilliant. Combine it all with the basic Yakuza recipe — organic tomato paste and puree, honey, champagne vinegar, roasted garlic, caramelized onions, clove oil, sea salt, black pepper and crushed red pepper flakes — and you’ve got some catchy ketchup, er, catsup. With the health angle distinguishing his product from the few others out there, Camden figured out packaging, a marketing strategy and a way to produce the stuff commercially. Voilà! Camden’s Catsup is born. Sleep is highly overrated anyway. — MICHAeL ZuSMAN pHOTOgrApHY BY jAMIe FrANCIS

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starterscont.

to do July

JULY 2-5

Music for the hungry masses Taj Mahal, Little Feat and john Mayall lead the music lineup for this year’s Safeway Waterfront Blues Festival, but the real stars are the thousands of people who show up with canned goods and $10 donations to Oregon Food Bank, which needs community support now more than ever. waterfrontbluesfest.com JULY 9-10

Shake your tail feathers expect crowds to flock into downtown McMinnville for the 50th annual Turkey Rama, which includes a street fair, an 8K run/walk, and the world’s largest turkey barbecue. There’s more than one? mcminnville.org/turkeyrama JULY 13

Time to go on a diet

Today marks the anniversary of the first Krispy Kreme doughnut, the birth of portly chef Paul Prudhomme, and it’s both National French Fry Day and National Ice Cream Day. If that doesn’t inspire you to hit the treadmill at the gym, nothing will. JULY 14

Vive La Revolution! Celebrate Bastille Day with a daylong festival in the pearl District’s jamison Square. Don’t miss the sixth annual Portland Waiters Race at 2 p.m., featuring top servers from some of the city’s best restaurants. afportland.org/bastillepdx JULY 16-18

Give your table some art Score unique plate settings as some of the best ceramics artists in the nation gather for the 61st Salem Art Fair and Festival, the largest and best curated art fair in Oregon. In addition to plenty of live music, there are ethnic food booths benefiting charities and churches. A summertime classic. salemart.org

more to do

what he said

Vitaly Paley Vitaly paley has been the wizard behind the curtain at paley’s place in Northwest portland since he and his wife, Kimberly, opened the doors in February 1995. Low-key and not especially demonstrative, chef paley has been content to let his food do the talking for him — which is pretty easy when your casually elegant dining room is named restaurant of the Year by The Oregonian in 1999, and the james Beard Society pins you with a Best Chef in the pacific Northwest award in 2005 … and the restaurant keeps on packing them in. Fifteen years is a long time, no? It’s been a journey of discovery, and I can honestly say that it’s only been in the last year that I really have begun to feel confident in my own ability and potential and to feel happy in the kitchen. In the kitchen we push it on a daily basis. You have to do this to stay creative. Has Portland changed? Where do I start? More and better choices. We have the best of everything, and people are finally getting it. Diners are more informed and adventurous. When we opened, we had guests who had trouble distinguishing portobello mushrooms from meat. Today, we can put blood sausage or deviled kidneys on toast on our menu and it flies out the door. people are also more flexible about dining hours. Seven o’clock is no longer the only option. Today we’re still cranking after 10. Look into your crystal ball — what’s next? Technology and new ideas will be more acceptable. even though (New York Times food writer) Kim Severson said that the media’s current crush on

portland will be over soon enough, I think we will have the staying power and establish ourselves as a place with mature dining. We want to see the Michelin guide in portland, and I’m sure we would capture a few stars. Portland lifer or just passing through? I’m just hitting my stride now, so I don’t know what I’ll be doing in the distant future or where I’ll be doing it. Maybe or maybe not in portland. Favorite ingredients? Fennel pollen, piment d’espellette and persillade. Pet peeve? In restaurants: inconsistency. It’s a plague. After the honeymoon period, operators lose their steam and focus. Among servers: just going through the motions, such as pouring tap water into glasses filled with sparkling. And among customers: control-freak diners who want to rearrange my menus and the supposedly lactose intolerant patron who I just created a special menu for ordering crème brulée for dessert. Are you kidding me? — MICHAeL ZuSMAN pHOTOgrApH BY rANDY L. rASMuSSeN

eat this now / maultaschen What the heck are maultaschen? For one, portland’s new IT german dish — surfacing first at Alyssa gregg’s new alehouse and eatery, Spints, and a little later at downtown’s equally new Alpine favorite, grüner. Maultaschen are the german version of ravioli, only larger. Fillings can include minced meat, cheese and greens sealed in pasta packets. The filled pillows are poached and then either pan-fried or served in a light broth. The name supposedly comes from an old german word that translates to “slap in the face,” a reference to the resemblance the maultaschen bear to a swollen cheek. Ouch, and yum! — MICHAeL ZuSMAN pHOTOgrApH BY BeTH NAKAMurA

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starterscont.

CCocktails reative

to do cont. JULY 16-18

Suds to sink your teeth into Taste great beers from around the world that you’ve probably never heard of at the Portland International Beer Festival, pouring 150 brews from more than 15 countries, all in the pearl District’s North park Blocks. seattlebeerfest.com JULY 22-25

And even more suds The Oregon Brewers Festival returns for its 23rd edition, with 80-plus craft beers from around the country. oregonbrewfest.com

what to do with leftover jam

JULY 23-25

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If beer’s not your thing, there’s still plenty of drinking to be done at the 24th International Pinot Noir Celebration, which takes over the campus of McMinnville’s Linfield College and features wine — and winemakers — from around the world, as well as some of Oregon’s top culinary talent. ipnc.org JULY 31

What do we want? Lasagna awareness! When do we want it? Now! Did you know that july was designated as Lasagna Awareness Month? really! Maybe we’re not “aware” of it in july because it’s hot outside, and warmweather lasagna sounds about as much fun as being stuck in the middle of a group of screaming 12-year-old girls at a justin Bieber concert. We’ll get back to being aware of lasagna when fall returns. AUg. 6-8

Take a big Bite

Reservations 503.779.1660 291 Liberty St. SE Salem, OR 97301 www.bentleysgrill.com

The Bite of Oregon used to be one of those Waterfront park events that few food fans took seriously. But in recent years, it’s transformed dramatically, drawing top food producers from throughout the state, as well as lowerprofile wineries worthy of larger recognition. And this year, Food Network star and Olympic gold medalist Brian Boitano cooks on the culinary main stage. biteoforegon.com

This is a funny time of year. everywhere we look, voluptuous fruit overflows from market shelves, getting you all excited to pursue your new favorite thing: canning. Making jam, preserves, chutneys — anything to capture our bounty at its peak. The funny part of this scenario comes from the fact that, well, you haven’t quite finished off all that bounty you captured last year. After all, your jams felt like precious treasures last fall — you only had like a few dozen jars. You gave some away to special friends and family. You ate a few. Then you gave a few more away. And now you want to fire up the canning kettle again, but you need to make room in the pantry for more jars. The answer? Make cookies. This is a fantastic recipe that I’ve adapted from an old Fine Cooking magazine recipe by pastry chef patricia Heyman. — MArTHA HOLMBerg

Left-Over jam Cookies MAKeS 48, 1½-INCH COOKIeS

13 ounces (3 sticks plus 2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, room temperature 12⁄3 cups granulated sugar 2 eggs 3¾ cups all-purpose flour (spoon the flour into your measuring cup, don’t scoop it up) 1½ cups finely chopped, toasted hazelnuts or almonds 2 cups berry, peach or apricot preserves

pHOTOgrApH BY MArTHA HOLMBerg

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch pan. In an electric mixer or with a wooden spoon, cream the butter and sugar until fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until the first one’s incorporated before adding the next. Add the flour and mix just enough to blend it in. Add the nuts and mix a little longer until just blended. press about two-thirds of the mixture into the baking pan. Spread with the preserves and then crumble the remaining dough to make an even top layer. Bake for about an hour, until the top is lightly browned. Let the bars cool in the pan, then cut into 1½-inch squares. If you want to freeze these, you can freeze the whole pan.

WALKABOUT [ Lake Oswego ]

UU Yogurt

by grant butler / photography by torsten kjellstrand

Lucky Me

here’s no denying that lake oswego is one of portland’s most affluent suburbs, with its ZIp codes loaded with wellappointed homes belonging to the metro area’s elite. but for the longest time, you also couldn’t deny that its dining scene was pretty homogenized, with a smattering of red-sauce Italian spots and humdrum dining rooms known more for their views than the food they serve. In recent years, though, a wealth of interesting food options have turned up here, hastened in part by the arrival in the early 2000s of lake View Village, a retail development perched on the edge of the lake, boasting posh restaurants and food-focused businesses such as cooking supply giant sur la table. In the course of an afternoon, you can sample some of lake oswego’s sweet finds, all within just a few blocks to the north and south of the busy thoroughfare a avenue.

WALKABOUT / LAKe OsWegO cOnT.

start your journey with coffee and cookies at 1 Chuck’s Place (148 b ave.; 503-675-7861), a cozy coffee shop that relocated to a larger space underneath acclaimed restaurant terrace kitchen. at Chuck’s, espresso drinks are fashioned out of Illy coffee, an Italian import that’s known for producing shots with a thick layer of the much-desired crema — just the thing to go with buttery oatmeal-raisin, chocolate chip or toffee cookies. next, it’s time to hit the Village for some unusual discoveries. at the women’s boutique 2 Lucky Me (385 First st., no. 115; 503-6369595; luckymeboutique.com), there are all sorts of handbags, jewelry, scarves and hats to kickstart any makeover. and if you like your libations on the run, don’t miss the suede-covered flasks. Fill it with rum and pop it into your purse before

heading off to your umpteenth screening of “sex and the City 2.” samantha would approve. If you are more health-focused, head to 3 UU Yogurt (345 First st., no. 109; 503-6996284; uuyogurt.com). those u’s in the business name stand for “u-serve It, u-top It,” and that’s exactly what happens when people line up for

the self-service frozen yogurt and toppings here. spigots pump out nonfat frozen yogurt in flavors such as pistachio and english toffee, and there are dairy-free sorbets such as strawberry-kiwi if lactose isn’t your thing. next, you scoop up whatever fixings you want to turn your fro-yo into a personal masterpiece. For sweet tooths, there’s crushed cookies, Fruit loops, peanut butter cups and smashed butterfinger candy bars. but there are healthy options, too, such as rustic granola or fresh blueberries and blackberries, so you can customize your brain-freeze however you want. Farther south on First street, there’s the second location for esteemed bakery 4 St. Honoré Boulangerie (315 First st., no. 103; 503-4965596; sainthonorebakery.com), which trumps the original northwest portland location with its commanding views of the lake from its outdoor terrace seating. named after the patron saint of baking in France, the kitchen here produces all

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tasting wine builds up an appetite. good thing that 6 Clarke’s restaurant (455 second st.; 503-636-2667; clarkesrestaurant.net) is nearby, serving one of the best happy hour bargains around. From 4:30 to 6 p.m. Mondays-saturdays, the posh bar of this Mediterranean-northwest spot offers all of its bar menu at half price, making it possible for two people to score a meal for about $20. there’s from-scratch quiche with a bowl of soup for $5, truffled fries with garlic aioli for $3, and a ramekin of hummus and black olive tapenade for a mere $2. For the indulgent carnivore, there’s risotto balls stuffed with duck confit for $5.50, or the house hamburger for $6. after eating, there’s plenty of time to wander to the lake, where you can catch the suset — one bit of lake oswego magic that never changes. £

kinds of pastries and specialty breads, as well as salads, grilled panini and entrees, such as a traditional croque monsieur, fashioned out of the three b’s: brioche, béchamel and black Forest ham. order one with a glass of house red for a perfect little lakeside lunch — for about $10. If you’re looking for wine with a bit more distinction, head to the new wine shop 5 World Class Wines (269 a ave.; 503-974-9841; worldclasswinesoregon.com), which had its grand opening in May. the three-level shop specializes in bottles from France, spain and portugal, as well as plenty of homegrown oregon wines. the emphasis is on value, and the staff here is good about steering you to unusual finds, some priced as low as $10. If you drop in on Fridays between 4:30 and 7:30 p.m., you can indulge in $10 tastings, which one week might emphasize oregon pinot noirs, and the next hard-to-find vintages from the southern rhône region of France.

3rd St

LAKE OSWEGO: Downtown

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B Ave

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The sights and smells will quickly transport you to the shores of the sundrenched Mediterranean. Our bistro fare offers simple and authentic dishes that highlight the regional cooking of Italy, France, Greece & Spain. Weekly events include: Worldly Wednesday: 3 course meal, $15; Friday Night Wine Flights: 4 wines and 4 tapas for $10; Saturday Night Wine & Cheese: 4 wines and cheese $10 Happy Hours: 4:00 – 6:00 nightly Hours: Tue-Thu 11-8, Fr & Sat 11-9

If you are looking for a special piece, that perfect outﬁt or a complete wardrobe update, Grapevine is the place to go. Find unique boutique style with a great selection and exceptional customer service at our beautiful Lake Oswego location. Fashion made Fun! 310 N. State Street, Ste 112 503.635.6009 www.grapevinestyle.com

N State St

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467 3rd St (near 3rd & B) 503 635-3151 www.gustomarketplace.com • 6

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THE ARTISAN Lakewood Bay

Willamette River

CUSTOM FRAMING & GALLERY

With more than 40 years experience, our creative and dedicated team will help you choose the perfect design to best enhance your artwork and compliment your decor. Using hand-cut mats, museum glass, and hundreds of unique all-wood or metal frames, we work to insure our clients complete satisfaction. WE ARE NOT SATISFIED UNTIL YOU ARE! 267 A Avenue 503.635.4590 www.artisanframinglo.com

• Quick breakfast. • Light Lunch. • Ofﬁce Space/Free Wi-ﬁ. • Eclectic Stuff.

The coffee is serious, Chuck isn’t. On the corner of 2nd and B downtown Lake Oswego

Homemade every day Every day we bake our homemade focaccia and prepare our delicious Italian recipes. Come taste fresh pasta which we will cut for you on demand. We make our ravioli using a special recipe pasta. Our ﬁllings range from traditional pumpkin, spinach, cheese, and mushroom, to our specialties like salmon, chicken –artichoke heart, and Italian Beef. Our homemade sauces range from the traditional Marinara and Tomato Basil, to spicy Puttanesca, Romescu, and Artichoke and Merlot. 333 S. State Street 503.699.2927 www.PortCityPasta.com

Silkwood proudly sells adult clothing made in the USA as well as modern European designs and one of a kind pieces. We also feature a line of custom handmade baby and young children’s clothing designed and made right in Lake Oswego. Organic ﬁbers, natural dyes, handstitching, modern styles and vintage inspirations . . . everything about the clothing and accessories you will ﬁnd at Silkwood Boutique is unique. 220 A Avenue #104 503.305.6321 www.silkwood.us

Lake Oswego Marketplace

Christmas in July Over 20 years in business at the same location. R Bloom’s of Lake Oswego: Fresh & Faux Floral arrangements & plants; home decór & accessories; gifts; and much, much more. Visit www.rblooms.com to see our July weekly specials. New Estate Division - The Vault Current & Vintage home decór & accessories. NOT your traditional consignment. Our new line of ornaments - Ornaments to Remember Special, exclusive to R Bloom’s, one-of-a-Kind & Sample sale ornaments; original European glass ornaments designed for all seasons and reasons. 449 Third Avenue, Lake Oswego, OR 97034 503.636.5876

www.rblooms.com

The

LAKE OSWEGO:

Boones Ferry/Kruse Way

GRAND PAPERY Invitations & Gifts

(Oswego Towne Square)

Grand Papery

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Kerr Parkway

39 B Ave 503.697.7355 www.gopro-lo.com

Boones Ferry Rd

Fine Food Market

Gourmet Productions is a friendly group of committed foodies creating culinary delights for every palate. We believe our food choices should be healthy and sustainable, as well as delicious. We are a locally owned ﬁne food market and caterer serving the entire Portland metro area. Market open Mon-Fri, 10:30am-6:30pm

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101 A Ave 503.974.9230 www.lakesidehomeandgift.com

From high design to a touch of whimsey, Lakeside has it all. - Home Decor - Furniture - Candles & Gifts - Bath & Body - Baby Gifts - Entertainment and much more Feather Your Nest!

Lakeside Home & Gift

The ultimate destination for those passionate about paper. We would love to help customize your stationery or invitations-for any occasion. Letterpress, engraving, thermography or digital printing from companies such as Vera Wang, Crane, Wm Arthur, Kate Spade...as well as a huge off-the-shelf selection with quick turn-around on in-house printing. You’ll also enjoy our great greeting cards, unique gifts, stylish ribbon & wrap. We invite you to come visit us. Open Daily! 459 Second Street 503.697.4424 www.grandpapery.com

Westlake Drive

Country Club Rd (to Downtown)

Children learn. Parents connect. Families balance. The PLAY Boutique is an innovative space that offers a café, creative play, lifestyle & wellness services, enriching activities, and a profound sense of community. In addition to pre-school, we offer a myriad of options for newborn through grade school, including Skills Camps, Stay & Play times, Drop & Go times, Coffee Breaks, Happy Hours, and a host of seasonal activities for both parents and children. We also host themed birthday parties for kids of all ages.

Accessories from the Heart Accessories from the Heart has provided customers a wide selection of decorative, functional, must-have accessories at wonderfully affordable prices since 1998. Accessories from the Heart, where customers become girlfriends on a daily basis! 10 AM - 6 PM Monday - Friday 10 AM - 5 PM Saturday 220 “A” Avenue 503.675.1144 www.accessories from theheart.com

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Passed down from mother to daughter, family jewelry tells stories. The style may not be yours but you want to keep the emotional connection. At Trios Studio, we are experts at restyling family jewelry to reﬂect YOUR personal style. • Custom Design • Repairs • William Henry Knives

Oswego Towne Square At Mountain Park 503.496.1285 www.TriosStudio.com 13

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World Class Wines

269 “A” Avenue 503.974.9841 www.worldclasswinesoregon.com

Kruse

Open Tuesday-Friday 10:30am-6pm Saturday 10:30am-5pm

464 First Street 503.123.4567 www.playboutique.com

Exceptional wines at exceptional prices. • Affordable wines from around the world • Friday night tastings • Private tastings by reservation • Conveniently located

Carman

Play Boutique

“A boutique for the gracious entertainer.” Bellagio Interiors is Lake Oswego’s premiere stop for all of your entertaining needs. Exquisite table linens, dishes, cake domes, glassware and serving pieces await your next party. Peruse recommended cook books, and pick up designer recipe cards and boxes to house your favorites. We have lovely hostess gifts for every occasion. Home of the city’s largest candle selection, we carry over ﬁfteen candle lines. 145 A Ave. 503.534.9842 www.bellagioinc.net

Boones Ferry Rd

Bellagio Interiors

Drive

Add some ﬂair to your life . . . change your lampshade and brighten your day! Approximately 9,000 shades to choose from. Bring in your Lamp for a Proper Fit. Restyling Accessories, Rewiring, Parts 15942 SW Boones Ferry Road 503.636.1884 www.naomislampsandshades.com

Located at Westlake Village in Lake Oswego, the Olive and the Grape offers innovative menus with an emphasis on the freshest seasonal ingredients and an artful, creative presentation by French Laundry trained Executive Chef, Ellen Hatzi. The Olive and the Grape is your neighborhood bistro and wine shop. 14559 Westlake Drive 503.747.7263 www.theoliveandthegrape.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Leah Davidson at 503.221.8300 or leahd@sales.oregonian.com

friday night dinner party [ How two couples entertain together: teamwork and cocktails ]

By JACKIE and ADAM SAPPINGTON and LYNN and RON PENNER-ASH Photography by TORSTEN KJELLSTRAND Jackie talks about the food:

Gathering with friends on a warm summer evening over cocktails and dinner is great. The only thing that could make it more great is … pingpong. That was the agenda for a party Adam and I co-hosted with our friends Ron and Lynn Penner-Ash and some of their friends. We brought the food and they handled the games and drinks. Which now that I think about it, was sort of a setup! Pingpong is serious business at their house, and they play all the time. Us, not so often. So after a couple of potent cocktails — man, those Pisco Sours go down easy — those guys were delivering spins, backhands and slams while I was just, well let’s just say it wasn’t pretty. Another Pisco Sour, please!

We prepared some of the food at our house but did a lot of the final prep all together, which is part of the fun of entertaining with friends and also a good way to not go crazy doing all the cooking yourself. The main dish was grilled chicken, which we rubbed with Adam’s spice blend the night before, so all it needed was to meet the grill. And about that grill? Take your time — it’s not about lots of smoke and flame. If you’re using charcoal, let the coals burn down enough so they’re glowing but not flaming. Shove them to the side, then put the chicken on the opposite side of the grill to create indirect heat, which will make the chicken moist and juicy after about an hour. If using a gas grill, you can do the same thing by turning one burner to high and two to low; put the chicken on the low side. We wanted to serve grits, which just need to be stirred — a perfect task for a guest who’s maybe not superskilled in the kitchen. I made a gorgeous colorful salad with many of the summer’s best melons that we bought at the local farmers market. To keep it sparkling fresh and not mushy, I cut up everything at the party, enlisting a few helpers to make fast work of it. Dessert was my homemade shortcake with basil-infused cherries. I fixed the cherries and made the dough ahead so that we could just roll and bake the biscuits there — an easy and fun task, and the biscuits are so good when they’re fresh from the oven.

Menu Pisco Sours

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Farmers Market Melon and Herb Salad Abrente Napa Valley Albariño

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“Sappy Spice” Grilled Chicken Country Cat’s Slow-Cooked Grits Felton Road New Zealand pinot noir Penner-Ash Oregon pinot noir

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Jackie’s Lemon Shortcakes with Basil-Scented Bing Cherries Graeme’s Fruity and Dangerous Drink (our friend Graeme’s concoction of fresh plums that have been soaking in vodka for several months)

friday night dinner party Cont. Ron talks about games, cocktails and the party house:

Adam and Jackie were responsible for the food, which they brought … but then they put us all to work preparing it. Hmm, a neat trick. Actually, Lynn and I love it that way and have designed our kitchen so we can have a crowd in there all talking and cooking together. Our pingpong table is considered patio furniture during the summer and is ready for a game at any time, so it was easy for us to get ready for the party. Our biggest responsibility was cocktails. We were first exposed to the Pisco Sour at one of our favorite Portland restaurants, Andina, a few years ago. We’ve been working on our at-home version ever since, thanks to some help from Ken Collura, sommelier extraordinaire at Andina, who sourced pisco from his supplier for our early attempts. Pisco is a liquor obtained exclusively from the distillation of recently fermented “pisco grapes,” usually the nonaromatic varietal Quebranta. (You can buy it at 10th Avenue Liquor or Pearl Specialty Market & Spirits, among other spots.) Once the weekend libations favor Pisco Sours, it’s an indicator that it must be summertime at Casa Penner-Ash. We felt the crisp, clean citrus flavors of pisco would provide an excellent beginning to Adam and Jackie’s Southern comfort cuisine. And it might also help with Jackie’s pingpong skills.

penner-ash pisco Sours for pingpong For 2 drinkS

3 ounces pisco (we use Don Cesar Pisco Puro) 2 tablespoons sugar 1 ounce (2 tablespoons) fresh lime juice 1 egg white Crushed ice Angostura bitters Mix the pisco, sugar, lime juice, egg white and crushed ice in a blender. Pour into cocktail glasses and shake a few drops of the bitters onto each cocktail.

‘Sappy Spice’ grilled Chicken ServeS 4

“Sappy Spice” 1 tablespoon fennel seed, ground 1 tablespoon paprika 1 tablespoon lemon pepper 1 tablespoon garlic powder 1 tablespoon herbes de Provence 1 5-pound chicken, cut into pieces, or 5 pounds chicken parts In a small bowl, mix all the spices together.

In a large bowl, place the chicken in the bowl and sprinkle the spice mix over the chicken. Massage the spice mix into the chicken and then season with salt. Refrigerate for 24 hours uncovered. Grilling the chicken: Prepare a fire and let it burn down to glowing coals. Move the coals to one side of the grill and place the grill grate 6 inches above the coals. Let the grate get hot and place the chicken skin side up on the opposite side of the grill from the coals and cover. If you’re using a gas grill, heat one burner to high and the other to the lowest setting. Arrange the chicken over the low side and turn over halfway through cooking. Cook the chicken for about an hour or until the internal temperature is 160 degrees. Serve the chicken family style on a large, beautiful platter.

Est. 1995

Join us for a winemaker dinner at Andina Experience the warmth, familiarity and contrasts of Peruvian cuisine and culture paired with a special selection of WillaKenzie Estate wines.

friday night dinner party Cont.

Monday, August 9th 6:30 p.m. $75 plus gratuity per person. Limited seating available. www.andinarestaurant.com

To make your reservation, please contact Andina at 503.228.9535.

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the Country Cat’s Slow Cooked grits · Fresh Pasta · Homemade Focaccia · Deli · Wines · Pizza · Catering · Delivery

ServeS 4

1 cup white or yellow grits 6 cups water 1½ teaspoons kosher salt

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4 ounces unsalted butter In a medium-large pot, add everything to the pot and place on medium to high heat. As the grits come to a boil, occasionally whisk to keep them from sticking. Once at a rolling boil, vigorously whisk the grits to release the starch. You will then need to whisk vigorously off and on for about 15 minutes until the grits begin to look set. Turn the heat to low and gently simmer for about an hour, whisking occasionally to keep from sticking. Grits are done when there is no toothiness to them when tasting. They should be nice and creamy. Finish with freshly ground pepper and serve hot.

farmers Market Melon and herb Salad ½ canary, cantaloupe or orange honeydew melon ½ Charentais melon ½ very small red watermelon 1 teaspoon salt 1½ tablespoons Moscato vinegar 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 sprigs fresh marjoram, leaves picked Seed and cut all the melon into bite-sized pieces. Put the melon in a large bowl and sprinkle with salt and toss to incorporate. Drizzle the Moscato vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil over the melons and gently mix. Marinate for up to an hour.

503-234-1614

825 NE Multnomah, Suite 280 Lloyd Center Tower across the skybridge from Nordstrom

Right before serving, toss marjoram leaves into the melon salad. Serve family style on a large platter

Jackie’s Lemon Shortcakes with Basil-Scented Bing Cherries

Basil-Scented Bing Cherries

ServeS 6

1¼ cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons grated lemon zest 1¾ teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 2 ounces unsalted butter, cold and cut into cubes 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream ¼ cup turbinado sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 3 tablespoons powdered sugar Basil-Scented Bing Cherries (recipe at right)

1½ pounds fresh Bing cherries, pitted and halved

In a standing mixer, combine the flour, sugar, lemon zest, baking powder and salt. Using the paddle attachment, turn on low speed and quickly mix to combine. Add the cubed butter and mix until the dough has bits in it the size of small peas. Slowly add ½ cup of the cream. Mix just until the dough comes together. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for 20-30 minutes.

½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup water 8 fresh basil leaves

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Roll the dough out onto a floured surface. The dough should be about ¾-inch thick. Using a biscuit cutter, cut out 6 biscuits, rerolling the scraps if you need to, and place them on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Brush with the 2 tablespoons of the cream and sprinkle turbinado sugar over the tops. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until lightly golden and crisp on the bottom.

Whip the remaining 1½ cups cream with the vanilla and powdered sugar until you have soft peaks. Cut each shortcake in half and place the bottom pieces on dessert plates. Spoon cherries liberally over each biscuit and top with whipped cream. Place the tops of each biscuit on top of the whipped cream and serve.

In a medium saucepan, add the cherries, sugar and water. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Simmer for a few minutes, and then add the basil leaves. Cook on low for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cherries cool to room temperature. You can also do this a day ahead and refrigerate. £

meet the meats 28

By jason cohen / phoTography By moToya nakamura

The weatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s warm, the grill is hot â&#x20AC;&#x201D; time to discover some beef cuts that are great, and cheap

aurelhurst Market head chef David Kreifels’ favorite time of day is 6 p.m. That’s when the nouvelle steakhouse on East Burnside begins to fill with diners, but there are also still a few people lined up at the butcher counter, picking up a flatiron or teres major steak to cook at home. And if you’re asking yourself, “What the heck is teres major?” well, you’re not alone. Laurelhurst delights in serving up less-common cuts of beef, all of which are showcased on the chalkboard cattle diagram that hangs above the restaurant’s open kitchen.

meat and hot coals go well together, but to get the best results you should pick an interesting cut and treat it nicely. For advice on both of those aspects, we asked the people behind meat-centric simpatica and Laurelhurst market. Ben Dyer (left) and David kreifels obligingly dragged their Weber to the empty lot next to simpatica in southeast portland and cooked up a feast: skirt steak with romesco sauce, teres major (also called petite tender) with chimichurri sauce and kalbi marinated short ribs.

“It can be a little daunting to walk into our place and see things you’ve never even heard of before, much less know how to cook,” says Ben Dyer, Laurelhurst co-owner and butcher. “We spend half our time telling people how to prepare it. a lot of times people will say, ‘I’m having a barbecue, and I want some rib-eyes, or a tenderloin,’ the most expensive pieces in the case. I’ll say, if that’s what you want, no problem, but check out these other things that cost half the price and are at least as good, if not better. Let me down-sell you.” Dyer, kreifels and Laurelhurst’s third partner — front-of-house man jason owens — were previously best known for what used to be Viande meats (inside northwest 21st avenue’s city market), which Dyer and Toro Bravo’s john gorham bought in 2003. They are also behind simpatica catering and Dining hall, which has been doing its beloved weekend dinners and sunday brunch since 2006. steak nights at simpatica were so consistently successful that the trio opted to go full-time with

choice cuts Skirt: “I’ll take skirt steak over a beef tenderloin every time,” Dyer says of the tough but tasty diaphragm muscle, an inexpensive cut most often found as fajitas and carne asada. “I just love it — great texture, great flavor.” can be cooked to medium — any rarer will be chewy — on a hot grill in just two minutes per side.

Flatiron: This hunk of shoulder is a bear to trim, with huge layers of silver skin, but that’s why you get it from a butcher. “I think it’s one of the most visually beautiful pieces of meat,” says Dyer. “The marbling on one side is just amazing.” For the grill, cut into two pieces, or else make sure the thinner tail section is farther from your heat source so that it doesn’t overcook. Cross-cut short rib: When sawed across the bone (into 3/8-inch strips) and kissed with soy, garlic and ginger, everybody’s favorite winter braise becomes the stuff of kalbi beef: korean barbecue, a staple of hawaiian plate lunch that will now be served at ate oh ate. grill it just like skirt steak — hot and fast to medium — and try not to eat the whole batch with your hands. – jc

meaty tips

the concept — they sold Viande (it’s now called chop Butchery and charcuterie) and opened a new butcher shop inside Laurelhurst market (on top of that, the trio is about to open a third venture: ate oh ate, devoted to the plate lunches and street food of Dyer’s native hawaii). as caterers, they were attracted to lesser-known cuts of meat for purely economic reasons (“you’re not giving a tenderloin to a 300-person wedding,” says kreifels) but also because of their experience in butchering whole animals. “If you’re just ordering in cryovacked cuts of meat, then you only get what you want, and what your customers already want,” says kreifels. “When you bring in the whole animals, you start using these other things by necessity, because you have them, and you don’t want them to go bad. so you put them on the menu, and people are interested, and they buy them, and then you find yourself ordering just the lesser-known cuts. so it increases creativity.” so what is teres major? It’s a 9- to 10-ounce shoulder cut that eats a lot like tenderloin — it’s less luxurious but has more of a mineral character, and Laurelhurst sells it for $8 to $10 per pound (compared with tenderloin at $30). “It’s great when people come in and say, that teres major was awesome — what else have you got?” kreifels says. “They get to experience a new flavor, and they look cool with their friends and family because they know what they’re talking about.”

Oil it up and pat it down: Before grilling, spray or brush the meat with canola oil so it doesn’t stick to the grill and to help it achieve a perfect crust. Then afterward, if you are going for that steakhouse decadence, a generous gloss of butter is an almost-mandatory final touch, especially for leaner cuts such as tenderloin and teres major. “Fat likes fat,” says kreifels. “It kind of balances itself.”

Use your fire: you went to all that trouble, right? get some vegetables on there! charred romaine, fennel or spring onions will taste great with that romesco. “Fava beans are also fun,” kreifels says. “Throw them on the grill, put the lid on and they get kind of smoky. Then you just pop them in your mouth like edamame.”

Do nothing: perhaps the most important grill technique of all: resisting the temptation to just cut and serve, giving the juices time to redistribute in the meat. Five minutes is good (more if it’s a bigger cut).

Resting right: and when your steak comes off the grill, make sure that the justcooked side is facing up — otherwise, residual steam will get trapped by the board and keep heating the meat. For a softer landing, the Laurelhurst boys sometimes use a bed of fennel fronds, which not only adds aroma but also makes use of what would otherwise be compost (if you’ve been cooking with fennel, that is).

Finish with a hit of salt: Why not take that money you just saved on cheaper cuts of beef and spring for fleur de sel or maldon? “a good investment,” kreifels says. “red meat loves salt.”

Skip the grill brush: Ball up your used aluminum foil instead – it will do just as well for scraping off those grates, before and after cooking. – jc

recipes

Ancho Chile Romesco Sauce makes aBouT 2½ cups

2 dried ancho chiles; seeds and stem removed 4 red bell peppers ¾ cup toasted skinless almonds 1 or 2 calabrian chiles in oil (depending on how spicy you want it), stems removed (these come in a jar, available at pastaworks) juice of ½ lemon and grated zest 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar 1

⁄3 cup chopped fresh parsley

3 cloves garlic ¾ cup canola oil

Kalbi Short Rib Marinade

makes aBouT 3 cups

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

makes enough For 4-5 pounDs shorT rIBs

6 cloves garlic, peeled

kosher salt and pepper

1 cup soy sauce (kikkoman recommended)

Chimichurri Sauce

1 medium sweet onion, cut into ½-inch chunks 3 bunches cilantro, well-washed, bottom part of stems removed 3 bunches Italian parsley, well-washed, all stems removed 6 calabrian chiles, stems removed 1½ cups canola oil 1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon each: toasted cumin, fennel seed, coriander seed, ground in spice grinder after toasting juice of 1 lime 1 tablespoon white vinegar 2 tablespoons honey kosher salt and pepper Bring a small pot of water to a boil, add the garlic cloves and boil for 3 minutes (this removes stinging raw garlic flavor). In a food processor, purée sweet onion, garlic, cilantro, parsley and calabrian chiles until just shy of smooth. Transfer to a mixing bowl and pour over both oils. add the spices, lime juice, vinegar and honey. stir, not to form an emulsion, just to blend. Taste and adjust with salt and pepper and perhaps more oil or lime juice or vinegar.

¼ cup water Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a medium pot, and throw in the ancho chiles. Turn the heat off and let sit for 30 minutes or until soft. grill the bell peppers over hot coals until dark all over, then put them into a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let sit for 20 minutes. This will loosen the skins from the flesh. peel the peppers and remove all the seeds and stems. In a food processor, purée the almonds with the calabrian chiles and softened ancho chiles, then add the roasted and peeled peppers with the lemon juice and zest, vinegar, parsley and garlic and purée for about 30 seconds. add the canola oil followed by the olive oil in a steady stream. Taste and adjust with salt and pepper and more calabrian chiles if you so desire.

5 cloves garlic, chopped 1 inch of ginger root, peeled and chopped 4 green onions, chopped 2 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons dark or light brown sugar 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 2 tablespoons ground toasted sesame seeds (toast the seeds as you toast spices, in a pan over medium heat, shaking constantly) 1 teaspoon chile paste, such as sambal combine all ingredients in a large, heavy ziptop bag. add the short ribs and leave to marinate in refrigerator overnight and up to 24 hours. grill over high heat to medium or medium-well. Let the short ribs rest for a couple of minutes before serving with (if in hawaii) mac salad and calrose rice. £

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Five For the Future Meet some people who are reinventing the joy of drinking beer by John Foyston photography by Mike Davis

The PerFecT Publican:

Sarah Pederson, 33, of Saraveza

hiS Year iS a biG anniversary for Portland, nothing less than beervana’s birthday. it was 25 years ago that a band of pub and brewery owners persuaded the Oregon legislature that breweries should be able to sell beer on premises, thus giving birth to the brewpub. You’ll read a lot this year about the early brewers, brewery and brewpub owners, many of whom are still very much in the business: the Widmer brothers; the McMenamin brothers; Dick and nancy Ponzi (who still own their winery, but sold bridgePort brewing company in the mid-’90s;); Jamie emmerson and irene Firmat of Full Sail; Gary Fish at Deschutes brewery; Karl Ockert at bridgePort; art larrance of Portland brewing, cascade brewing company and the biggest outdoor festival of them all, late July’s Oregon brewers Festival; pioneering publican Don Younger; and revered beer writer Fred eckhardt. They deserve the ink they get, because they invented this place that we know and love — they and us: a legion of discerning Portland beer lovers clamoring for new pubs and new beers. but this anniversary year is also a good time to look forward and see why and how beervana stays fresh and vital. Far from being saturated, Portland still has room — and the thirst — for new pubs, new breweries and new beers. The old(er) masters continue to innovate and to inspire new brewers, new publicans and new beer fans. The old beervana is and was a wonderful thing; but best of all, it’s constantly becoming the new, improved beervana thanks to the fresh energy and talents of the latest generation of brewers, pubsters and proselytizers. here then are five for the future: a few of the talented and dedicated young people who will help Portland retain its beervana crown for the next quarter-century.

Portland loves its brewpubs, pubs, taverns and bars, and few places have earned that love more quickly or unanimously than Saraveza, which owner Sarah Pederson opened in October 2008. Pederson took a hundred-year-old building on north Killingsworth and filled it with her collection of vintage Midwest breweriana, set up 10 taps pouring a rotating list of great beers, staffed the place with friendly, knowledgeable bartenders and servers, filled the coolers with a couple hundred great bottles to drink there or take away and created an instant classic: a fine friendly Midwest tavern, transplanted to beervanan soil. “When i was working with my friend at Pix,” Pederson said, “she said it was important to find a niche. … You don’t want to be just another bar.” Pederson dodged anonymity from the start by filling her bar with the vintage beer signs she’d been collecting at Midwest flea markets and by catering to diverse crowds: beervana beer fans, her noPo neighbors and the Green bay Packers fans who’ve adopted Saraveza as their own, and who watch televised football games on Sunday mornings. “being a Packers bar is really cool,” she said. “it’s a different community, it’s not a food crowd, not a beer crowd, but football is part of the community, especially back home in Shawano, Wis. During the football season, everybody wears green and gold: it’s church.” She was intimidated by the food side of the business because she doesn’t cook, but she knew what she wanted: good, solid home-style food, with little or none of it fried, so she again tapped into her Wisconsin childhood and gave pride of place on the Saraveza menu to the pasty, that sturdy, versatile hand pie. “having the menu and the kitchen and staff that we do is really important,” she said. “We don’t fry anything — we don’t even have a hood. The pasties are perfect and they’re something i grew up with; my grandmother and mom made pasties. My older brother is nate, and we named a pasty the nater because that’s what he always wanted for dinner.”

The beer side got equal attention, and Saraveza quickly moved into the upper echelon of beervana pubs to become the sort of place where brewers and breweries love to hold special tastings, beer releases and similar events. “The special events are great for us,” Pederson said, “because they give us a chance to learn more about beer, and they’re great for customers because it allows people to feel like they’re getting involved with beervana community, and people love that.” beer and community are the guiding coordinates of Saraveza. Pederson moved to Oregon in 2000 and did public relations for high-tech firms. She worked as a manager at Pix Patisserie, where she perfected her skills as a businesswoman and a manager, learned accounting and ordered all the beer for the Southeast location. a short internship at hair of the Dog came next, followed by a stint as a brewer’s assistant at the new Old lompoc Pub. “i called myself a cellar rat,” she said. “i cleaned and transferred kegs and washed tanks. That helped me figure out that working in the brewery is a lot of work and that i really liked the business side.” She had no question that the Killingsworth area, where she’s owned a house since 2002, was the perfect place for the pub. “Other people thought it was too far out, but when i found the building and saw how easy it is to hop on or off the freeway, i knew this was the perfect place.” With the building selected, it was time to put the rest of her master plan in action. “i knew i wanted to keep working in beer and i wanted to be part of the community, plus i wanted to create good jobs for myself and my staff. because i’ll be working forever, i want a place to come to that’s positive, and i still think that every day.” For the next few months, however, she’s ceding much of the day-to-day operation to longtime bartender Jonathan carmean (recently named bartender of the Year by the readers of northwest brewing news) because she and her husband, ryan, will be having a baby— a little girl, say the docs — in late July or early august. “right now i’m concentrating on roxy,” she said, “my second baby — after Saraveza.” Saraveza, 1004 N. Killingsworth St.

“i knew i wanted to keep working in beer and i wanted to be part of the community, plus i wanted to create good jobs for myself and my staff. because i’ll be working forever, i want a place to come to that’s positive.”

YOur FrienDlY beervana GuiDe:

angelo De ieso, 34, of brewpublic.com

Portland is a town of beer blogs. They vary widely in intent, content, expertise, literary attainment and frequency of posts. They include Jeff alworth’s established and well-respected beervana blog, my own (he said modestly) The beer here, and ezra JohnsonGreenough’s recent new School blog; the blog roll includes it’s Pub night, beer around Town, bS brewing, blogs for pubs, breweries and bottle shops and the perfervid rantings of Dr. Wort’s buzz-erk beer blog. really. among those score or more blogs, angelo De ieso’s brewpublic.com is

notable for its welcoming, inclusive tone and the site’s clean design, which is thanks in part to De ieso’s pal aaron Miles, who helped with the design and branding of brewpublic. De ieso also credits Miles with getting him to make the jump from writing for other people’s blogs into writing for himself in the fall of 2008. Since then, De ieso has become a well-known and trusted part of the beervana beer scene. “i’ve started calling him the beer gypsy,” says beervana blogger Jeff alworth. “it seems like angelo is at every Portland beer event.” True enough, and he brings a fine, friendly attitude whether it’s in his beer reviews, brewery reports or event coverage — De ieso is a fan first, but a knowledgeable one. beer is the latest of his passions, which include movies and music — he was music director at Portland State’s KPSu during his school years, and since 2005, he’s written the Pop Tomorrow! blog about Oregon indie music. but music posts are tailing off in frequency, compared with the day-byday brewpublic posts with which De ieso is building a living picture of the community that we call beervana. a recent sample includes a cogent review of half a dozen new spring beers, a rundown of new beers from hood river’s big horse brewing, a business story about restructuring at the brewers association, a review of local beer classes presented by Oregon craft beer Odyssey, and a long report on the beers and people at this year’s FredFest, the birthday party that honors beer writer Fred eckhardt. De ieso, who was born and raised in central Maine, didn’t become a passionate beer geek until after fetching up in Portland after a spell in Oakland, calif., and then San Francisco, where he worked three jobs to pay the rent. “When i moved to Portland in 1998, i didn’t know much about good beer,” De ieso said. his list of past beers included some craft beers from Samuel adams, Shipyard, lagunitas and the like, but there were 89-cent Mickey’s and buck-a-can Pabsts on the list, too. but a beer-geek friend who worked at a local supermarket soon set him right with a supply of

northwest craft beers such as Deschutes, Full Sail and bridgePort. Then he started working at belmont Station, one of Portland’s premier bottle shops. “i didn’t know what beer geekdom was until i started working there, because people knew so much about good beer. being part of belmont Station got me into Portland’s beer community and made me realize that that’s what i wanted to do, and (former owner) Joy campbell encouraged me to write for the belmont Station blog.” he was soon a regular on Guest on Tap and the PDX beer blogs. “blogs are an important part of the mix because having easy access to news encourages a lot more voices, not just the mainstream view,” De ieso said. “Plus the immediacy of news is great. if someone feels up to posting an event review after getting home at midnight, that’s about as up-to-date as you can get.” brewpublic.com is more than just a blog, however, because De ieso has already staged a few beer events under the brewpublic aegis, such as the Killer beer Fest, the Division Street pub crawl of late winter and June’s Microhopic beer Fest, which featured some of Oregon’s smallest brewers. he plans to do at least one big event every quarter. Meanwhile, he’ll keep blogging and selling advertising and sponsorships for his website — his least favorite job — and marveling at the Portland beer scene. “it’s a collective organism,” he said. “There’s competitiveness, sure, but it’s underlaid by true camaraderie. i love it here, it’s absolutely my favorite place, but there’s so much beer culture here that it can lead to oversaturation. “When planning an event, it’s hard to find a free weekend anymore,” he said. “There used to be two beer seasons, light beer and dark beer; now, there are about eight.”

The innOvaTOr:

Kerry Finsand, 30, chief beer Officer, Taplister.com The first time you use an actual pair of beer goggles, you’ll have Kerry Finsand’s bottomless well of enthusiasm for the Portland beer scene to thank. Finsand is the president (OK, chief beer officer) of Taplister.com, which just won a 2010 SoMe award for excellence in Pacific northwest Social Media. Taplister is developing, among other apps, widgets and beer-related plug-ins, a new iPhone app that may be called beer radar, although the augmented-reality part certainly won’t be called beer goggles. but Taplister has partnered with a local Portland company called Spot Metrix to incorporate a product called 3Dar: “it’ll allow you to take your iPhone and look for bars around you serving a beer you’re searching for,” Finsand said, swiveling his phone around the room as the simulation program’s moving grid matched his phone’s movements and hinted at what the final version of whatever-it’ll-becalled’s 360-degree view would look like. it’s a part of the new iPhone app being written by Taplister’s chief technology officer, Ken baer, and they hope to have that and a new android app (written by developer Don Park) ready for Oregon craft beer Month. More to the point, it’s part of Taplister’s ongoing effort to make Portland beer drinkers (and those in two dozen other cities now) some of the most informed, technically augmented craft beer fans on the planet. Finsand is not writing code for these or other Taplister gadgets such as the Facebook widget or any of the rest, you understand. instead, he’s the marketing guy, the one who wants the tech delivered tomorrow so he can go out there and sell beer drinkers and pub owners on a sparky-bright new digital future. Taplister was founded in February 2009 by tech and beer geeks: Finsand, Scott Wray, Ken baer and Kevin Scaldeferri wanted to create a way for the beer community to know what craft beers are on tap where. That’s a big deal in beer-mad Portland, where pubs rotate beers constantly and put on one-of-a-kind, last-keg-in-town

beers every week. Taplister created the first live beer search engine using the popular social network Twitter, and has expanded its network to two dozen other cities as well, including Seattle, Salem, corvallis, eugene, San Francisco, new York and austin, Texas. beer fans can visit — the Portland page lists more than 200 pubs, restaurants and bars, though not all are current — and search to see where their favorite beers are on tap. Mobile users can download the free iPhone app called beer Signal or use a mobile version of Taplister.com to search for their favorite beers. in addition, Taplister.com has installed Pubcams at various venues such as eastburn and Saraveza that display a live feed of their tap boards on the website. Taplister also enlists beer fans to keep the lists updated by clicking the Tweet a beer button and typing in the name of the beer and the bar where it’s on tap. in addition, Finsand hopes to start working with beer distributors to help update pub listings as they deliver new beers.

Taplister consists of (from left to right above) baer, Finsand and his wife, Josie, as the chief operations officer. “She’s very detail-oriented,” he said “and she has amazing energy and discipline.” They plan to introduce their new services and business plan in July, hit a lot of beer festivals through the summer and start seriously looking for investors. he’s also courting national tech publications and blogs and expects more publicity for Taplister, but even if it’s not a huge success, Taplister is still another step — a big one — toward Finsand’s ultimate goal. “Taplister allows me to do things that i haven’t been able to do in other jobs,” said Finsand, who, like a lot of his generation has a crowded résumé for a 30-year-old. “Whether this is a huge success or not, i definitely want to keep working and innovating in craft beer marketing.”

“People ask us if we’re crazy starting another brewery in Portland. i just tell them, look around — there are a lot of brewers, but there are also a lot of bars and pubs and beer drinkers.”

The breWer:

alex Ganum, 30, of upright brewing upright brewing is just more than a year old, but in that year owner/brewer alex Ganum and brewer Gerritt ill have carved out a unique niche for upright, brewing what they call belgian and French farmhouse beers with a distinct Pacific northwest twist. “The name is a reference to charles Mingus and his primary instrument,” the brewery website explains. “Mingus was a musician whose compositions defy categorization. at upright we use a special saison yeast and open fermenters to produce beers that are a true hybrid style, sharing Mingus’ spirit of exercising creativity and craft.” That translates into an amazing array of beers in just a year, including a strong ale called billy the Mountain (title of a Frank Zappa song); a stout infused with oysters; Flora rustica, a saison made with herbs and botanicals; an ancient German style called a Gose; and one of my favorite beers ever, Fatali Four, a variation of their year-round wheat beer spiced beautifully with fatali peppers. They’ve also created one of beervana’s coolest beer destinations: the upright brewery tasting room, which is open Friday evenings, Saturday and Sunday afternoons and before blazer games. The room is furnished with craftsman-style wood tables, racks of wooden casks, tasting tables made from barrel staves and tops and stacks of glassware and bottles. There are several upright beers on draft, plus bottles and brewery logo clothing and glassware for sale. like many a great brewer, Ganum started as a cook, and he’s as likely to talk about cheese and charcuterie on the upright brewing blog as he is about what’s brewing. he moved to Portland several years ago from Michigan, attended classes at Western culinary institute and started home-brewing, which he took to instantly. he’s got classic home-brewer stories, such as when he brewed a pilsner in his duplex in January and had to leave it under a perpetually open window to maintain the right temperature, despite protests of visiting friends. Then he had to move the keg to the refrigerator, which it handily filled. “i could store food only in the door of the refrigerator for a month or so,” Ganum said. When it came time for his internship, the cooking school OK’d a couple of months in cooperstown, n.Y., at brewery Ommegang, which specializes in bottle-conditioned belgian-style ales. “i learned a ton there,” said Ganum. “Most important, i learned that i loved commercial brewing as much as i hoped i would.” he moved back to Portland and signed on with bJ’s, which was then brewing at its Jantzen

beach and lloyd center restaurants, and worked there until December 2006. “lloyd center was great, because we had a three-barrel system, and you can sell that much of anything, so we made some good, unusual beers. and we ran Jantzen beach’s 15-barrel (about 450 gallons) system just as hard as we could, which was good experience. i think one year we brewed 2,500 barrels on that system.” When he left, he knew he wanted to open his own place. “i spent a lot of time thinking about it,” he said, “but the idea of a pub was just overwhelming — i’m a brewer, not a businessman.” So he started to focus on a production brewery specializing in farmhouse-style beers. Those plans got a boost when he happened upon a woman who was looking for tenants for the historic left bank building, which was undergoing extensive renovation. “i’d known of this building for years, and i loved it.” he said, “then we started looking through it and realized the brewery could go anywhere.” The landlord was happy to have a brewery in the basement, and Ganum soon had an intern of his own in ill, who went on the payroll last summer after some months of volunteer labor. “People ask us if we’re crazy starting another brewery in Portland,” he said as we sipped beers in the tasting room, amid oak casks of conditioning beers and stacked cases of upright beers in champagne-style bottles. “i just tell them, look around — there are a lot of brewers, but there are also a lot of bars and pubs and beer drinkers.” Upright Brewing, Suite 2, Leftbank Building, 240 N. Broadway, tasting room open Friday evenings, Saturday and Sunday afternoons.

Oregon craft beer Month Kickoff and events: OK, there probably isn’t a chinese proverb about a month of 200 or 300 beer events starting with a single toast, but there is a beginning toast, and it happens on the first day of the month at Oregon’s very first brewpub: Kickoff begins 5 p.m. July 1, McMenamins Hillsdale Pub, 1505 S.W. Sunset Blvd.; opening toast at 7 p.m. revelers across the state can share text and photos of their July 1 kickoff toasts on Twitter using the #OcbM hash tag, or on the Oregon craft beer Month Flickr group. as for the other 200 or 300-odd events, bookmark the Oregon craft beer Month page on the Oregon brewers Guild website: http://oregonbeer.org

The FaMilY ThaT breWS TOGeTher:

lani radtke, 33, Marketing and events Director, Gilgamesh brewing, Turner People at april’s Spring beer & Wine Fest likely didn’t go there thinking that the festival’s buzz beer would be from a small, brand-new Willamette valley brewery, or that the beer would be made with black tea, tangerine zest and — lordamercy — nO hops at all, but try it they did. and like it, they did; enough to vote Gilgamesh black Mamba (now just called Mamba) as the people’s choice beer of the festival, ending the several-year reign of astoria brewing’s ultra-hoppy bitter bitch. Just to prove that it wasn’t a fluke, the Gilgamesh folks — eight members of the radtke family, including parents lee and eileen radtke, grown sons and daughters-in-law — went and did it again: Gilgamesh black Mamba won People’s choice at the Oregon

Garden brewfest in Silverton. “Worst of all, we left a keg of Mamba at home and then we ran out at about 8 p.m. Saturday,” said lani radtke, who’s married to middle son nick radtke. “So my mother-inlaw drives back to Turner, somehow wrestles the keg into her car by herself and gets back here about 9:30 p.m., and we’re thinking that we’ll never drink all that before the taps close. but when we went to pour beers for the volunteers after the event, the keg blew on the first glass. … We felt bad for the volunteers.” it’s been that kind of year for the young Salem-area brewery. “Time has been going by so fast,” said lani radtke, “and now summer is upon us and we’re going to be really busy. but i think i nearly gave myself an ulcer in the week before we came up to the Spring beer & Wine Fest. . . . We’d been to one festival before, in Salem, but that’s not quite the same as coming up to one of Portland’s biggest festivals. “but i was shocked and over whelmed by how welcoming people were and how well we did. There was so much support and people were so willing to try a new and unusual beer: We went through 11 kegs during the weekend, a festival record.” Things have been going so well that an upgrade from a tiny 30-gallon brew system to Seven brides’ former 210-gallon system had to happen months earlier than planned, as did an expansion of the brewery space in part of the professional woodworking shop on lee and eileen radtke’s property. but burgeoning success hasn’t tainted the brewery. The Gilgamesh booth at the Spring beer & Wine Fest featured a bar built from spalted maple by nick radtke for his and lani’s wedding last summer. lee and Mike radtke built a Gilgamesh sign to match, and the hundreds of people who stopped by were likely struck by the sheer friendliness of the radtkes. This is a charmingly home-crafted family affair, a slice of small-town, mid-valley america — and a brewery that makes excellent, innovative beers. lee radtke and sons Mike (Gilgamesh’s head brewer and recipe formulator), nick and Matt have been

brewing together for about 15 years and often talked about getting more serious about their hobby. “but the time was never quite right,” said lani radtke, who, like all the family members, also has a day job and is a civil engineer with a Portland firm. “There was always someone who wasn’t quite ready to devote as much time and energy as needed. We knew that everybody had to be on board if we were going to make a go of it.” When that time finally arrived last year, the radtkes started the paperwork and licensing process, and figured out how to pay for the brewery without a visit to the local banker. “We said let’s go for it, but let’s not take a huge risk,” lani radtke said. “So we don’t have a lease, we don’t have a huge debt; Gilgamesh is all family-funded.” The radtkes have found they’ve become part of a larger family, too. “We’ve always appreciated Oregon beer culture, but now that we’re part of it, i can’t stress how much this feels like a community instead of a competition. We’ve been welcomed with open arms — Seven brides brewing is a perfect example, from the first they were asking if we needed help and offered to sell us their seven-barrel brewery when they upgraded.” There are plans for a tasting room somewhere down the road, and they’ll probably bottle a batch of beer this summer just to try it out, but the radtkes are very aware that they need to grow at a measured pace. They hope to brew 450 barrels (about 14,000 gallons) this year, which means you won’t see it everywhere. but a dozen Portland and Salem pubs are pouring the Gilgamesh beers, which include Mamba; an excellent iPa; hop Scotch, a dryhopped Scottish wee heavy (9 percent alcohol) and the intriguing chocolate Mint Stout, a light stout made with fresh Willamette valley mint that lani radtke says is a stout for all seasons — especially summer. Gilgameshbrewing.com. Places to look for it in Portland: Plew’s Brews, St. Johns; EastBurn; Belmont Station; Breakside Brewing; North End Pub; Bailey’s Tap Room; and Apex. £

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We canned tuna a messy, oily job, but the rich, delicate results are well worth it By Lucy Burningham Photography by corey arnold

You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to catch it yourself, but if you can it yourself, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be happy. Buying ultrafresh tuna off the docks at the coast, then setting up an old-fashioned canning bee with friends is a brilliant way to spend a summer weekend.

as berries pop and green tomatoes ripen on the vine, a few Portland friends make an annual migration to the coast. these are the kind of friends who know how to live in the moment — masters of the extravagant weeknight meal and impromptu grappa tastings — but this trip to the coast represents some forward thinking. they go for the fresh seasonal albacore tuna, which leads to a beach-house canning project, a messy yet rewarding exercise in pantry stocking. after joining their expedition for a second year, I’m a convert. Sure, canning fish involves pungent oils and some knife work, but every time I grab a jar of rich yet delicate tuna from my pantry, I have few regrets. I’ve made dozens of memorable homemade tuna salad sandwiches, salade niçoise and spaghetti con tonno; the canned tuna is good for a whole year. albacore season runs from July through October. We headed to the coast mid-September, the easiest time to score a beach house with a deck for canning that can be hosed off afterward (trust me, you do not want to can fish indoors). Friend alex caplazi, one of the canning expedition stalwarts, discovered Oregon tuna, a family-run fishing operation with a dock in Warrenton, an easy drive from our Manzanita house. even though end-of-the-season September meant unpredictable catches, the family vowed to return with at least enough tuna to meet our needs. after following captain Stuart arnold’s twitter stream (a few days prior he’d written: “caught myself

Catching tuna is best left to the pros (that’s a tuna fishing lure in the top photo, by the way), but canning tuna is an easy job for civilians. But you must follow the rules and use a pressure canner, not just a hot water bath. See the recipe and resources on Page 53.

over 50 fish yesterday!”), we arrived at the dock ready to fill an empty cooler. aboard the FV Lihue II, a 1939 tugboat arnold’s father once operated, four men slapped whole 12- and 13-pound tuna onto makeshift plastic counters. they pressed latex-gloved thumbs into each fish’s eyeball socket for stability before carefully slicing the taut silvery bellies with knives. each tuna produces four long peachy-pink loins, which lack bones and skin. When buying off the dock, plan to pay $2 to $3 per pound for the whole fish, plus a $6 loining fee per fish. You’ll end up with about half of the fish’s weight after waste is discarded. captain arnold produced a sparkly pink plastic object that looked like a cat toy, something a being with bad vision might mistake for an underwater sea creature. “We call this a hoochie,” he said. the lure bobs through the surf at the end of a long line and, if all goes well, a hungry juvenile tuna, which already lives close to the surface, will bite. even though the fish are hungry after a migration across

the Pacific, they can prove tricky. “Sometimes you’ll see a school, turn around the boat as fast as you can, but they’ll be gone,” arnold said. as we waited for our tuna to be loined, caplazi sliced pieces of flesh from discarded tuna carcasses using his wooden-handled Japanese knife, the beginning of a tuna smoking experiment. He placed chunks of tuna collar, belly and loin in large zip-top bags with ½ cup brown sugar and ½ cup good sea salt. When we arrived back at the beach house, he fired up the smoker and rinsed and blotted the fish with paper towels (the drier the fish the better, to prevent steaming). eventually he smoked some of the tuna for about an hour, which we canned. the rest stayed in the smoker until the thickest pieces flaked when forked, after about three or four hours.

as recommended by food safety experts, we handled the rest of the fish gently and kept it on ice until the last possible moment. Kelley dodd, an experienced canner, sterilized the glass pint jars and lids in the dishwasher, adding an extra dry cycle. “this is $400 worth of fish,” she said. “We don’t want to take any chances.” We cut the loins into jar-sized chunks, removing any dark flesh, which can add fishy flavors. then we set up an assembly line outside on the picnic table, with each person taking a specific duty. the empty jar started at one end and was filled with a chunk of loin, a small piece of belly (for added flavor and succulence), some good sea salt, homemade chicken stock, fruity olive oil and either a fresh bay leaf, garlic clove or slice of jalapeño. We left the right headspace between the rim and

ingredients, wiped the rim to ensure a tight seal, and placed the jars in the canner with boiling water, according to the pressure and time recommended by the Oregon State university “canning Seafood” publication (see page 53, for the recipe and other resources). after handling fish all day, we were hungry for a taste, so caplazi produced a batch of tuna burgers made from some fresh albacore saved for the moment. While we savored the burgers, along with a magnum of châteauneuf-du-Pape that dodd and her husband had just brought back from France, we knew that tasting this rich tuna wasn’t a fleeting experience. the next day we’d return to the city with dozens of jars packed with canned tuna. We’d reap the rewards all year long.

Home-canned tuna is all about delayed gratification, so while you’re waiting to enjoy your catch, be sure to make some fresh tuna burgers from the leftovers.

Our Manzanita tuna Burgers ServeS 10

2 loins albacore tuna (about 3 pounds total) 2 to 3 eggs 52

2 bunches green onions, minced 1 cup bread crumbs Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Buns, such as ciabatta, sliced arugula leaves Sliced tomato

Generously oil a grill and heat it to medium-high. chop tuna finely with a sharp chef ’s knife or cleaver until it resembles ground hamburger (don’t use a food processor for this step, or you’ll end up with a paste). Place the chopped tuna in a large bowl. add eggs, green onions and bread crumbs. Mix gently with your hands, taking care not to overmix to avoid overly dense burgers. Salt and pepper to taste. carefully form patties, which will be delicate until placed over heat, where they’ll bind. Gently transfer patties to the heated, well-oiled grill. cook 2 minutes per side to medium or until the patty feels slightly springy in the middle. Be careful not to overcook. assemble sandwiches using the remaining ingredients. — Adapted from Alex Caplazi

Herbed caper Mayonnaise (see recipe below)

Herbed caper Mayonnaise MAKeS ABOut ½ CuP

use your favorite fresh herb in place of the tarragon; basil or cilantro would be delicious in the summer. Tasting Room hours: Tue-Sun 11-5pm

½ cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon chopped capers 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley 1 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon or favorite fresh herb

In a small bowl stir together the mayonnaise, capers, lemon juice and zest, parsley and tarragon. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to allow flavors to blend. Keeps in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Homemade canned tuna MAKeS 6 HALf-PintS

Home-canned, oil-packed tuna is sumptuous, flaky and full of flavor — a world apart from most commercial versions. tuna is a low-acid food, so it must be canned with a pressure canner, preferably of the weightedgauge variety. the pressure creates a higher-than-boiling temperature that kills any bacteria that may cause spoilage. this is serious, so please follow the recipe and make sure your canner is working properly. 2½ pounds boneless skinless albacore tuna loin 1 tablespoon kosher salt Good-quality olive oil Bring a 6-quart pot of water to a boil. Place 6 half-pint canning jars

along with their bands and lids in the boiling water for 30 seconds. using tongs, transfer the jars, bands and lids to a kitchen towel on a counter and let air-dry. Wash tuna; trim off and discard the dark blood line and any connective tissue. cut tuna into 2½-by-3-inch chunks. Pack the chunks of tuna into the jars, cutting them to fit as necessary, leaving a good inch of space at the top (use any scraps of tuna to fill gaps along the sides of the jars). Sprinkle ½ teaspoon kosher salt into each jar and pour in enough olive oil to cover the tuna, leaving exactly 1 inch of space below each rim. using a table knife, pry the tuna away from the sides of the jars to allow oil to fill any air pockets. Wipe the rims clean with

a hot damp towel, seal with the lids and screw the bands on. Put the rack in the bottom of a 10½-quart pressure canner and place the sealed jars on top of it. Pour in enough boiling water to fill canner by 2 to 3 inches. Lock the top of the pressure canner in place according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Remove the pressure regulator cap or dial gauge from the steam vent and set it aside. Heat the canner over high heat, allowing steam to release from the vent for 10 minutes, in order to remove most of the air from the canner. carefully cover the steam vent with the pressure regulator cap or dial gauge. When the pressure gauge reads 11 pounds, process the jars for 1 hour and 40 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary to keep the pressure at 11 pounds. If the pressure dips below 11 pounds, stop timing, bring the canner back up to the correct pressure by increasing the heat, and resume timing. (When using this recipe at altitudes of 1,000 feet and higher, add 1 more minute of processing time per 1,000 feet of additional elevation.) turn off the heat and allow the pressure to drop to zero, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove the pressure gauge. Wait for 2 minutes, then lift off the top of the canner, taking care to avoid any residual steam. using tongs or a rubber-handled jar lifter, transfer the jars to a kitchen towel on the counter and let cool for 12 hours. (If the jars are greasy, wipe them with a towel dipped in white vinegar.) check the seals by removing the bands and lifting the jars by their lids. If the jars are properly sealed, the lids will hold tight. If the jar opens, refrigerate it right away and eat the tuna within two days. Otherwise, store canned tuna in a cool, dark place for up to one year. Refrigerate after opening. — From Saveur magazine, issue #113

More of what you need to know: Oregon State University “Canning Seafood” publication http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pdf/ pnw/pnw194.pdf Albacore Tuna: A Quality Guide for Offthe-Dock Purchasers by Kenneth S. Hilderbrand Jr., Oregon Albacore Commission, www.oregonalbacore.org Lists 13 ports where fishermen sell tuna directly to the public, and provides health information (including a mercury report) Oregon Tuna www.oregontuna.com

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Portland’s only headphone boutique and personal audio specialists. Featuring the northwest’s largest selection of headphones, and unique audio gear for your iPod or computer source. “Try Before You Buy” with over 50 headphones and 30 in-ear headphones you can demo at our custom listening station all in our beautifully designed neighborhood store conveniently located on SE Hawthorne Blvd.

3633 SE Hawthorne Blvd Portland, OR 97214 503.230.7740 www.presentsofmind.tv www.blog.presentsofmind.tv 4

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“Whether you’ve been creating art for years or just starting, you’ll ﬁnd a full range of quality art supplies at Muse Art and Design, along with affordable prices and friendly, knowledgeable service. We specialize in many hard-to-ﬁnd products and have the Northwest’s most complete selection of encaustic painting supplies. Special orders are welcome. m-sat: 11am-6pm, sun: noon-5pm equip | inform | inspire

Upcoming author events: Craig Johnson – July 7, 7pm Dana Haynes – July 22, 7pm Bring this ad in & receive $1 off a purchase of $20 or more Hours: Mon.-Sat., 10-6:30, Sun., 11-5

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Mamababy Boutique Offering stylish maternity and children’s clothing, Mamababy Boutique is helping moms through the transitions of motherhood. You’ll ﬁnd everything from nursing lingerie, to skin care products, baby carriers, diaper bags and more. Take a load off in this family friendly environment and let their experienced staff assist you with all your mama needs. 4029 SE Hawthorne Blvd Portland, OR 97214 503.233.8130 www.mamababyshop.com

Elsa+Sam Elsa+Sam offers only the highest quality decorative and functional dishware direct from independent designers around the world. Our shop is ﬁlled with beautifully crafted ceramics, glassware, linens, and artwork. Elsa+Sam is the perfect place to ﬁnd unique and wonderful gifts for the home and kitchen. 4314 SE Hawthorne Blvd Portland, OR 97215 503.517.9942 www.elsasam.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Adam Rice at 503.221.8306 or adamr@sales.oregonian.com

selects/boxed wine

[ The summer smackdown ] n March, thomas angove, the australian inventor of the iconic “wine cask,” died at the ripe old age of 92, leaving behind an eponymous family winery and a legacy of wine-filled plastic sacks encased in 1-gallon corrugated-cardboard boxes. thanks to angove’s innovation, campers, boaters and college party hosts have been enjoying lightweight, low-cost wines for 45 years now without fear of breaking glass.

Swirl, sniff, sip, spit, repeat: Beverage consultant ted farthing discusses the upside of the growing variety of boxed wines, as well as the downside of trying out so many that are duds, while wine insider erica landon gives another red a blind taste test.

By katherine cole / photography By faith cathcart

selects cont. paneliStS: ted farthing Beverage marketing consultant, tedfarthing.com

winery & art gallery

“Art in the glass...from its caves to its art gallery, Trisaetum elevates the grape.” -Sunset Magazine

One of the “hottest ‘in’ wines of the area” difficult to find outside the state’s borders. -Wine Spectator

“A unique winery/art gallery showcasing the exceptional talents of owner James Frey. Trisaetum is a must see.” -Wine Enthusiast

OPEN WedNesday - SUNday 11am - 4pm 18401 Ribbon Ridge Rd, Newberg

503-538-9898

dixie huey proprietor of trellis Wine consulting, trelliswineconsulting.com darryl JoannideS owner of cork — a Bottle Shop, corkwineshop.com erica landon hospitality and sales director, hawks View cellars, hawksviewcellars.com; proprietor, Walter Scott Wines, walterscottwine.com MiMi Martin co-owner, the Wine and Spirit archive educational center, wineandspiritarchive.com kerry neWBerry Wine, food and sustainability writer, kerrynewberry.com nicolaS Quillé Winemaker and general manager, pacific rim, rieslingrules.com nancy roMMelMann Journalist, nancyrommelmann.com todd Steele proprietor, Metrovino, metrovinopdx.com grant Butler the oregonian’s critic-at-large Martha holMBerg editor-in-chief, Mix magazine

When angove developed boxed wine in 1965, he democratized a beverage that largely had been limited to an elite audience, at least in the united States. everyday consumers who once might have been intimidated by wine’s exclusivity factor were drawn in by the ease and accessibility of corkscrew-free sipping. in addition, the cask’s collapsible polyethylene bladder meant that, once opened, a boxed wine stayed fresh for weeks on end. But let’s be honest: Boxed wine used to be the domain of discount supermarkets, a flavored alcoholic beverage that didn’t taste like the grapes it purportedly came from. that has changed recently. the rise of a quality bulk-wine industry, an increasing demand for inexpensive wine and a new sense of environmental responsibility among consumers and producers have meant that 2010 has seen better nonbottled wines being sold at higherend retail outlets. even for the most upscale drinkers, this has been the year of the alternative package. intrepid picnickers and partiers that we are here at Mix, we couldn’t ignore this trend. So we recently gathered up 36 wines packaged in boxes — and cans — of all shapes and sizes. these weren’t your everyday supermarket swill; rather, they were the new boxes we’ve been seeing at gourmet groceries and reputable bottle shops. intrigued, we wrapped them up for purposes of anonymity, ordered a few pizzas, gathered at the fab central eastside arts district headquarters of the Wine & Spirit archive, and started tasting.

tasting 36 boxed wines has its perils, as the Mix panel discovers when it comes to vintages packaged in aluminum cans and aseptic boxes.

THE DUDS first, the bad news. Without clever graphic design work and promising-looking verbiage to divert our attention, we found that these pretty packages held plenty of duds. “i’ve tasted a lot of messedup wines,” remarked todd Steele at one point. “i’ve already hit a couple that taste like they were manufactured on the new Jersey turnpike.” of particular concern were a few offerings that fell outside the box, both literally and figuratively: Wines in cans. although we had sipped bubblies from cans previously with no ill results, these still wines smelled, according to nancy rommelmann, “like cat food. also: feces, plaster, gasoline.” apparently this is an innovation whose time has not yet arrived. halfway (size-wise) between the foul-tasting can and the bulky bag-in-box format is the tetra prisma aseptic, a slender, thin-coated cardboard box made by the same company that produces those foil-lined soup, broth, chai tea and juice boxes. We liked these containers for their light weight, portability and refrigerator-friendly size, but alas, none of the tetra wines struck our fancy. LOGISTICS the traditional “cask” boxes were not logistically faultless,

either. one tore in transport, requiring a duct-tape bandage to keep the pliant plastic bladder inside from spilling out. other spigots were permanently positioned at an angle rather than vertically, requiring participants to hold their glasses to the side (yes, we know that we should have been able to twist them; maybe we just have wimpy wrists). then there was the question of the type of spigot. the twistrelease style was deemed too much trouble, the simple pushbutton much easier to manage one-handed. and forget about the romance of the wine experience: as we cleaned up at the end of the evening, we felt like medical technicians handling blood transfusions when we tore open the boxes and poured what remained of the bags of red liquid down the drain. LONGEVITY We’re not in twinkie territory here: those polyethylene bladders do not age well. nicolas Quillé, our chief winemaker panelist, warned us to be sure to check the “best by” dates that are usually printed at the bottom of the box (or, look for a packaging date and add nine months to determine its shelf life). however, if you’ve got a fresh cask, the good news is that the airtight shrinking bladder

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selects cont.

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ensures that the wine inside will last for weeks after it’s opened. Because it lacks this bladder, the tetra prisma doesn’t have this advantage; it’s not much better than a regular screw-capped bottle when it comes to freshness over time (squeeze the air out of the top of a tetra — sort of like a toothpaste tube — before refrigerating, however, and the wine inside should stay tasty for a few days). and the can? once it’s open, it’s open. We’re still at a loss as to why canned wine even exists, except to think that the Japanese market — famous for its beer-stocked vending machines — might be an explanation. THE WINNERS ok, enough kvetching. now on to the really good news: these wines are cheap. our winners may look spendy because their contents are equivalent to between four and nearly seven bottles of wine. that pencils out to a per-bottle cost of between $5 and $6.80. not bad. our winning wines didn’t have much in common other than the fact that they came in boxes. they hailed from california, chile, portugal and france (sadly, we didn’t get any oregon casks; while some are served in restaurants, they haven’t yet made their way to wine shops). they were vintage and nonvintage, blends and single varietals. We chose them simply because they were fruity and fun. they washed down our pizza slices just fine, and we deemed them worthy of a summer barbecue or picnic. Would we serve them from plastic cups? Make them into sangria? add an ice cube? yes, yes and yes. Why not? So while we aren’t quite ready to toss out our corkscrews, we do plan to raise a plastic cup this summer in a toast to thomas angove. Because — four and a half decades later — we wine snobs are finally ready to embrace the box.

WHERE TO BUY Note: prices are approximate, and store lists, which are limited to the greater portland area, may be incomplete. you can ask your local wine merchant to special order any wine listed in this column. wHY-not wHite 2008 Bota Box california chardonnay (3 liters for $20) fred Meyer (any) trader Joe’s (any) eAsY APeRitiF 2009 gran Verano chile Sauvignon Blanc (3 liters for $22.50) alberta co-op grocery fred Meyer tigard and tualatin lamb’s palisades and Wilsonville thriftway Marketplaces Market of choice Burlingame and West linn new Seasons Markets cedar hills crossing, concordia, Mountain park, raleigh hills and Seven corners Whole foods Market fremont Wine xing stAndbY oF AnY coloR terra da Malta portugal Branco (white; 5 liters for $36) city Market pastaworks hawthorne and Mississippi terra da Malta portugal tinto (red; 5 liters for $39) city Market fred Meyer hollywood West pastaworks hawthorne and Mississippi Whole foods Market fremont All-AMeRicAn Red 2008 Black Box Wines california cabernet Sauvignon (3 liters for $27) Widely available in supermarkets and bottle shops old-woRld Red edmond Burle Vin de pays de Vaucluse (5 liters for $45) fred Meyer northwest Best Vino Vinopolis

SIMPLY ELEGANT

THE WINNING WINES Note: Many of these wines will be sale-priced as summer progresses, so consider the prices below to be on the high end.

wHY-not wHite

2008 Bota Box California Chardonnay (3 liters for $20; equivalent to $5 per bottle) kerry newberry nailed it when she deemed this white “nice for a family picnic” and “something Mom would like.” Benign, but not totally bland, it was floral and fruity, with notes of peach, nectarine, apricot and the barest hint of vanilla. plus, when we unwrapped it, we liked the look of the bleach-free recycled-paper box. Why would we buy a wine like this? at this price, why not?

eAsY APeRitiF

2009 Gran Verano Chile Sauvignon Blanc (3 liters for $22.50; equivalent to $5.60 per bottle) our tasters easily identified this as a sauvignon blanc thanks to its aromas of asparagus, grapefruit, grass and gooseberry. tropical fruit salad on the palate — guava, pineapple and litchi — added an extra layer of fun to the glass. todd Steele complimented it as “well-balanced,” with “true varietal character,” adding, “i could sit in the sun and drink a lot of this.”

stAndbY oF AnY coloR

Terra da Malta Portugal Branco (white; 5 liters for $36; equivalent to $5.40 per bottle), Terra da Malta Portugal Tinto (red; 5 liters for $39; equivalent to $5.85 per bottle) Bright acidity and floral, stone-fruit and citrus-rind notes were cues for darryl Joannides that the “easy drinking” white must be a portuguese blend. Which it was. nicolas Quillé was impressed, deeming it “the wine of the night.” then, as we were unwrapping our winners, we realized we also had voted for a red blend from the same producer. With its jammy fruit, the vanilla-accented red begged to be served at a barbecue. dixie huey found a “touch of earthiness and minerality” in the tinto, deeming it “simple but pleasant.”

All-AMeRicAn Red

2008 Black Box Wines California Cabernet Sauvignon (3 liters for $27; equivalent to $6.80 per bottle) Black Box appeared on the scene in 2003 offering something novel: high-quality, appellation-specific, vintage-dated wines in a box that wasn’t hideous. Seven years later, the company continues to hit the mark with this judiciously oaked crowd pleaser reminiscent of a blueberry-cherry pie. grant Butler suggested pairing this all-american red with italian fare such as lasagna or pasta with red sauce.

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old-woRld Red

Edmond Burle Vin de Pays de Vaucluse (5 liters for $45; equivalent to $6.75 per bottle) next to so many over-manipulated wine-flavored beverages, this old-world gem stood out as an original to Martha holmberg, who enjoyed the Burle’s light body and herbaceous finish. turns out portland-based importer phil Smith contracts directly with artisanal producers damien and florent (sons of edmond) Burle to bring their rustic values here. this blend of 2008-vintage Southern rhône fruit is sourced from old-vine Burle vineyards that fall just outside the boundaries of the prestigious Vacqueyras and gigondas appellations that his label is best-known for. What does that mean? this wine is a hard-core bargain. £

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mixmaster[ From farm to shaker ]

By aSHlEy gaRTlaND / PHoTogRaPHy By ToRSTEN kjEllSTRaND hen it comes to the spirits they source, Portland bartenders vigilantly support local distillers and stock their shelves with bottles from House Spirits, New Deal, Sub Rosa and the like. What’s surprising then — particularly in a city as locally focused as Portland — is that those same bartenders haven’t shown much interest in sourcing local produce to partner with those spirits. That fact surprised Wildwood bartender Ryan Csanky when he took over the restaurant’s bar program and found a fixed cocktail list living in an otherwise seasonally driven restaurant. “Everything is local and seasonal here so the menu changes nightly.” Csanky says. “So I thought, why do we have a static cocktail list when the kitchen menu changes every day and we have all this amazing produce to work with? Why not incorporate it into the cocktail menu?”

Why not indeed? Slowly, Portland bartenders are taking cues from the kitchen and instilling a farm-to-glass philosophy behind the bar. Whether they’re making herb-infused simple syrup or muddling raspberries to update a standard-issue mint julep, their seasonally inspired cocktails give imbibers a chance to drink local all summer long.

Learning from the chefs

at Paley’s Place, chef Vitaly Paley isn’t the only person who gets excited about the daily produce deliveries. after bartender lisa Ramos combs through the produce, she starts tinkering with the interesting products she snags for her daily cocktail special. Though the specials might take different forms — a drink dressed up with a berry purée or a cocktail sweetened with lavenderhoney — they’re always locally inspired. across the street at Wildwood, Csanky heads to the kitchen for menu research — and product taste tests — well before he conceptualizes a drink. “When the first strawberries come in, I’ll go into the kitchen and eat a handful and start thinking about what flavors come to mind, what feelings they evoke and what liquors would go well with them,” he says. Csanky also lingers in the kitchen to study how the chefs use those ingredients. His snooping often sparks ideas for an innovative recipe of his own. “If the kitchen has an interesting herb and fruit combination on the menu or a fruit and vegetable combination that I didn’t think about, I’ll think of ways to incorporate it into a drink using that kind of a flavor pairing to make something interesting and different,” he says.

Portland bartenders are leaving their bars and heading to the kitchen to get inspiration for their drinks. lisa Ramos, head bartender at Paley’s Place, makes a simple syrup in the pastry kitchen using fresh rhubarb — and plenty of other fresh fruit is showing up in cocktail glasses around town this season. and by the way, those flowers in the vase (right)? Not a drink.

Midsummer market finds Bartenders have long used garden herbs to give summer cocktails a refreshing flavor (hello, mojito). But bartenders don’t stop at mint anymore. Today, herbs such as thyme, rosemary and basil appear muddled in drinks, perched on the rim as garnishes or in herb-infused spirits and simple syrups that give cocktails a delicate herbal flavor. Market melons appear in purées at Castagna, where an heirloom watermelon purée might enhance a classic margarita in the fall. In midsummer, peaches partner with fresh herbs such as thyme and rosemary, and local berries will start earning their reputation as a bartender’s best friend. “Berries

go well in everything,” says gilt Club bartender allison Webber. “you can muddle them, press them, use them in a garnish or infuse [with] them. They are really the most versatile product.” Webber infuses vodka with fresh blackberries for gilt Club’s Sauvie Island Blackberry Press, while Castagna’s bartenders give blueberries a quick dip in tequila to create their own berry infusion.

Sweetness and structure Unlike spirits, the flavor and sweetness of market ingredients change from week to week. To determine the best way to use the produce and the best spirit to pair with it, bartenders

The English garden MakES oNE CoCkTaIl 1 ⁄8 cup raspberries, plus a few more berries for garnish

2 ounces Small’s gin ¾ ounce fresh lime juice ½ ounce Tuaca 1 teaspoon simple syrup 1 thin slice of lime Muddle the raspberries in the bottom of an old-Fashioned glass by crushing them with a muddler or wooden spoon. Put a few ice cubes in the glass and pour the gin, lime juice, Tuaca and simple syrup over the ice. Stir to combine, then taste and adjust simple syrup as needed. garnish with a few whole raspberries and the lime slice and serve. — allison Webber, gilt Club

mixmaster cont. perform frequent taste tests and pay attention to a product’s structure and sweetness as the season unfolds. The sweetness factor is a big concern for bartenders working with summer fruit. “you have to remember how much sugar these products can have and find ways of taking sugar out of drinks,” says Webber, who counteracts fruit’s inherent sweetness by trimming back the sugar in her recipes. Typically, she makes the cocktail without any sweetener first, then adds ¼ to ½ teaspoon simple syrup at a time to determine the final recipe proportions. an ingredient’s structure — such as whether it has tough skin or seeds — can be the determining factor in how bartenders treat it. But they also consider the style of drink they want before they purée, muddle or otherwise alter the ingredient. “If you want something really

refined without pulp or flecks of herb, you might want to do an infusion or strain the ingredient,” says Csanky. “If you want something that has a more rustic feel with fruit skins floating in the drink for color and appearance, then just muddle it to the point where you get those little bits of fruit floating around in the glass.” When it comes to spirit pairings for seasonal products, many bartenders reach for vodka. The neutral spirit works well for infusions (though tequila, gin and even brandy can also work). But many bartenders prefer the herbal depth and complex backbone gin brings to summer cocktails. “Herbs and gin are really lovely,” says Ramos. “our herb lady brings in fresh basil and mint and lavender and thyme, and all of those ingredients go really well with gin. The herbaceousness with gin is quite fantastic.” The best way to start

experimenting at home is to give your favorite classic cocktail a seasonal update. Taste your market finds first and never add more than one or two ingredients to the drink at a time, says Webber (otherwise you’ll create a muddled mess that doesn’t taste like anything specific). and don’t forget to steal ideas from the kitchen. “If you really want

to come up with interesting and creative cocktails, I would move away from buying a cocktail book and buy a farm-to-table cookbook,” says Csanky. “or go back through cookbooks you already have and look at the flavor combinations presented there. Then see how that works in a drink.” £

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del Inti Celebrating 9 years on Alberta Street, Bella Faccia is one of P-town’s best loved pizzerias. Place your bet on our East Coast style slices with the perfect trifecta of crust, sauce & cheese. Daily happy hours, local micro brews, kick ass patio – what more do you want?

del inti is a Peruvian-inspired Northwest restaurant in the heart of the Alberta Arts neighborhood. We use the freshest of local ingredients with a Peruvian ﬂair. Enjoy pisco sours and ceviches by our ﬁrepit, or large parties on our newly remodeled covered patio. “South America meeting Northwest, as if it were always meant to be so.” - Portland Monthly Magazine

Inside this neighborhood bakery is a visual playground of traditional french pasty and bread. Petite Provence - our experts in great food, friendly staff, and a cozy atmosphere. Café opens from 7am-9pm serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a full liquor bar. Join us for live music Thursday through Sunday. Don’t feel like dining out? Order your favorite artisan desserts, delicious food, or warm buttery goodness on the go.

Open everyday 11am-10pm

Wed-Sun Happy Hour 4-7 dinner 5-10

Summer Hours: Mon-Sun 7am to 9pm

Tues-Sat 11-6:30 & Sunday 12-5

2934 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.282.0600 www.bellafacciapizzeria.com

2315 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.288.8191 www.delinti.com

1824 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.284.6564 www.provence-portland.com

2916 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.288.1999 www.piefootwear.net

Bella Faccia Pizzeria

Pie Indulge Responsibly

• Environmentally and socially conscious shoe boutique

• Footwear and accessories for both women & men

• Vegan friendly options • Year-around shoe recycling

Wine Down East Vita Café Fill your belly with wholesome vegan and vegetarian comfort food. Open every day for breakfast, lunch & dinner. Using local & organic products as much as possible, the Vita has been serving hearty meals since 1999. Gluten free? No problem. Daily kid’s happy hour – kids eat for $1 every day from 5-7 pm. Breakfast 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat/Sun Lunch everyday from 11am-5pm Dinner everyday from 5pm-10pm 3023 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.335.8233 www.vita-cafe.com

Experience a truly unique concept in dining. Featuring monthly rotating sushi and wine ﬂights. Feeling Hungry? We also serve a simple American Bistro menu, including the Miso Skirt Steak and Wine Down Burger. Try one of our house infused vodkas, like our popular Wasabi Martini or Saké Mojito. Join us for our daily Happy Hour (4:30- 6:30 & all day Monday). Lunch served Saturday and Sunday. Mon 4:30pm-10:30pm Tue-Thu 4:30pm-11:30pm Fri 4:30pm-12:30am Sat 11am-12:30am Sun 11am-10:30pm 2236 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.719.6984

NE Alberta Street Marketplace

The Grilled Cheese Grill: Portland’s funkiest

food establishment

Enjoy a wide selection of simple and gourmet Grilled Cheese sandwiches in a vintage school bus! Be classic with a traditional Grilled Cheese or be unique with the Cheesus burger! Tues-Thurs 11:30am-9:00pm Fri-Sat 11:30am-2:30am Sunday 11:30am-3:30pm Closed Mondays 1027 NE Alberta Street At the Corner of Alberta & 11th Portland, OR 97211 503.206.8959 www.grilledcheesegrill.com

Ciao Vito Outdoor Seating. Happy Hour all day Sunday! 4 until 8 Mon-Thurs. We offer simple and elegant food from a passionate kitchen. Farm direct organic and seasonal vegetables, ﬁsh and meats. Summer Salads, Heirloom Tomatoes on Flatbread, Sugo of Pork, Fresh Oregon Razor Clams and the best Italian Wine List in town at rock bottom pricing. Open Every Day 4-10 2203 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.282.5522 www. ciaovito.net

To advertise in Marketplace contact Brianna Dwight at 503.221.8311 or briannad@sales.oregonian.com

good cheese [ Barely Buzzed, Beehive Cheese Co. ] By tami parr / photograph By Beth nakamura Name: Barely Buzzed milk: Jersey cow’s milk from Wadeland South Dairy in ogden, utah age aNd look: aged about six months; large wheels of semifirm cheese, dark with espresso

Flavor: tangy with an earthy, chocolaty richness driNk pairiNg: Stout beers, straight bourbon Why We like this cheese: For portland’s coffeeobsessed culture, Barely Buzzed is the antithesis of the nonfat latte — it’s not only got coffee but also lots of butterfat.

Like good cheese but feeling a bit bored? i’ve got an idea for you. Start with a cheddar with that classic, tangy sharpness. then add . . . coffee. also a bit of lavender. in fact, go right ahead and mix ground coffee beans with lavender and a little olive oil and rub that concoction right on the rind of the cheddar. not so bored anymore, are you? meet Barely Buzzed from Beehive Cheese Co. in uintah, utah. at its core, Barely Buzzed is a sharp, well-executed cheddar. tim Welsh and pat Ford, Beehive Cheese Co.’s proprietors, worked with utah State university to develop the recipe when they started their operation in 2005. But the brilliance is in the coffee/lavender rub that coats each wheel. the coffee, a blend of Central and South american and indonesian beans, comes from Colorado Legacy Coffee Co. in grand Junction, Colo., a company owned by tim’s brother. the idea for adding lavender to the coffee was a bit of last-minute inspiration, according to tim. “i had a box of sample herbs and spices handy, and the combination of coffee and lavender sounded interesting. We use a very small amount of lavender, but i think it adds a subtle, clean, floral finish.” Cheesemakers often rub cheeses with oils, fats or other substances to protect the surface from drying or cracking as the cheese ages. Sometimes this rub or wash is neutral and doesn’t have much effect on the flavor of the cheese underneath. in the case of Barely Buzzed, however, the effect is quite the opposite. the coffee/lavender blend is rubbed on the cheddar right after the base cheese is made and, over a period of months, slowly penetrates the cheddar, transforming it into something new and startlingly original. £

Sellwood neighborhood

1 13

Blvd SE Bybee 14

Moreland Vision Source

SE Knapp St

Come experience our exclusive optical gallery featuring hand painted, stained glass eyewear from Studio3 Occhiali, imported from Italy. We also carry famous designer eyewear such as Gucci, Liz Claiborne, Silhouette, Cole Haan, Lafont, Calvin Klein and Sean John, just to name a few. Stop by and check us out!

SE Rex St

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A modern lifestyle accessories shop, featuring a unique slection of jewelry, wallets, handbags, stationery & home decorative items. Tilde displays a love of creativity, color & mid-century modern design. An easy & inspiring environment to ﬁnd the perfect gift.

SE Spokane St

12 11

Finds Old & New offers a charming blend of old, very old, and not so old, treasures. Specializing in: • Vintage & artisan jewelry • Asian antiques • Furniture • Unique & eclectic ﬁnds We buy and welcome consignments. Open Tuesday to Sunday

7919 SE 13th Avenue 503.234.9600 tildeshop.com

7907 SE 13th Avenue 503.235.0852

Springwater Trail bridge over McLoughlin Blvd

Beyond the Iron Gate Big B. is a vintage boutique specializing in Old~N~New Useful Junque. Brimming with beautifully crafted treasures from local artists and bygone eras. An experience of unique home & garden décor, vintage furniture, stunning jewelry, antiques & collectibles and much more! Bistro coming soon equals “shopping & eats destination”. 11am to 6pm wed-sat, 12pm to 5pm sun 8011 SE 13th Ave 503.997.7547 www.beyondtheirongate.com

Sellwood Marketplace

SE Tacoma St

7805 SE 13th Avenue 503.233.3731

SE Miller St

Well-chosen antiques, art and curiosities

6539 SE Milwaukie Ave 503.236.6008 www.visionsource-moreland.com

SE Lexington St

M di Madison P Parkk Antiques

Your local independent small batch coffee roaster and café. Come in and enjoy coffee fresh roasted on premise. Enjoy our signature Cubano Espresso, a true Mexican Mocha, or perhaps a Portland Iced Tea. We offer fresh baked pastries from Fleur De Lis Bakery, along with NY style bagels. Free wi-ﬁ, tables and casual seating for chatting with friends or having a business meeting, and a kids’ area for our younger guests. Don’t forget to take a pound of beans with you when you go! Open 7 days a week until 6:00pm 7901 SE 13th Avenue 503.756.0224 www.BlueKangarooCoffee.com

Corkscrew Wine Bar Farmhouse Antiques Sellwood’s favorite mini-mall! - Vintage jewelry - Hats - Furniture - Cast Iron - Glassware - Pottery - Post Cards - Holiday decor – And more! Always buying - 7 dealers. Open daily 11-5.

Serving all those seeking a better life with their dogs, cats, and other small animals. We strive to provide your dog with natural food, outdoor wear, toys, treats, beds and fun and surprises at every turn for both you and your dog.

If you could use a break from that question every night - “What’s for dinner?” - we’ll deliver the answer. It’s truly an affordable luxury. For less than a restaurant meal and with no prep or clean-up work, you can have a variety of delicious and healthy entrees, side dishes and desserts delivered to your doorstep.

Hours: Mon – Fri 9am – 7pm, Sat 9am – 6pm, Sun 11am – 5pm

Gino’s

Tue-Thu, 5pm, Fri-Sat 4pm til closed 1665 SE Bybee 503.239.WINE corcscrewpdx@gmail.com

8334 SE 17th Avenue. 503.239.1517 www.sellwooddogsupply.com

8235 SE 13th Avenue 503-234-2830 whatsfordinneronline.com

8028 SE 13th Avenue 503.232-6757

Corkscrew is a special place hidden just off the beaten path in the heart of Portland’s historic Westmoreland business district. We love featuring some of the best wines from our local region and other parts of the world complimented with unique artisan cheese & charcuterie plates. Welome and cheers!

Restaurant & Bar “Life is Good”

Cravin’ Raven

Gino’s Restaurant & Bar

Enriching Sellwood’s status as a healthy-living hub is Cravin’ Raven Organic Bakery, the place that proves you don’t have to use white ﬂour, white sugar, or butter to make delectable treats. Try our healthy and delicious assortment of mufﬁns, cookies, cakes, and assorted treats, all organic and sweetened with agave nectar. Gluten Free and Vegan options. Catering Available.

A neighborhood gathering place for family and friends for 14 years, serving quality Italian food, featuring “grassfed” beef, local organic produce and fresh pasta sauces. Enjoy refreshing cocktails made from local spirits, a variety of local beers on tap, and one of Portland’s most complete wine cellars. Buon Appetito!

8339 SE 13th Avenue 503-234-0603 www.cravinraven.com

Mon-Thu 4-10pm, Fri-Sat 4-11pm Sunday 4-9pm 8051 SE 13th Avenue 503.233.4613

El Palenque

Ste. Maine

Home to Portland’s ﬁnest traditional Mexican and Salvadoran cuisine since 1989. Family-owned and operated, we take great delight in offering our guests delicious meals made from only the freshest and ﬁnest ingredients, which we lovingly prepare by hand each day. Many of our menu items come from secret family recipes handed down over several generations. We are proud of our culture and pleased to share taste of it with you.

Often described as “modern glamour”, Ste. Maine is both home furnishings showroom and design studio. The furniture is a combination of vintage, new, and custom pieces upholstered in lush fabrics. Also featured: bedding, lighting, ﬁne art, books (design, fashion, lifestyle and culinary), ceramics (ranging from display to table top), decorative gift items, mirrors, decorative wall arts, one-of-a-kind pieces, and “Ste. Maine Exclusive” design pieces.

8323 SE 17th Avenue 503.231.5140 www.elpalenque.org

7015 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.232.1880 www.saintmaine.com

Sellwood Bridge, looking towards Sellwood

To advertise in Marketplace contact Jeff Brosy at 503.221.8320 or jeffb@sales.oregonian.com

eat here /jacksonville

[ Mining for culinary gold in a historic town ]

ASHLEY GARTLAND / pHoToGRApHY bY JAmiE FRANciS

haven’t been to Napa, much less Napa back when it was a charming, little-known wine country destination. Nor have i toured wine country in Southern France. So i can’t say whether Jacksonville is the next Napa or whether the surrounding landscapes are as pretty as those found abroad, though locals claimed it was both on my recent trip to southern oregon. What i can say J’Ville Tavern is that new winemakers, chefs and artisans are transforming this historic gold rush town and giving tourists an excuse for an overnight stay.

eat here / jacksonville cont.

J’Ville Tavern

The carriage House at Nunan Estate

Start your drive early and you’ll arrive in town by lunch. Though one local tells me to skip lunch in Jacksonville and head to Ashland to dine, i disagree: Tucked among the charming storefronts on california Street, The Jacksonville Mercantile (120 E. california St.; 541-899-1047; jacksonvillemercantile.com) is picnic provisions central. owners constance and David Jesser turned an old storefront that has been, at one time or another, a tavern, general store, bookstore and museum, into a European-style specialty market filled with herbs and honeys and spices and striped pastas. browse the wares, then stock up on cheeses, breads and crackers for your picnic. And don’t forget to throw a few locally made SWEET salted caramels and Lillie belle chocolates in your basket for dessert. Take your picnic to Doc Griffin park in town or tote it along on the

scenic drive on Highway 238 to link up with the Applegate Valley Wine Trail. Located just a short drive away, the growing region boasts more than a dozen wineries, including buzzed-about boutique operations like Cowhorn Vineyard (1665 Eastside Road; 541-899-6876; cowhornwine.com) and Wooldridge Creek Winery (818 Slagle creek Road; 541-846-6364; wcwinery.com). You can also sample local wine without leaving town. Quady North’s (255 california St.; 541-702-2123; quadynorth.com) cozy brick tasting room anchors the east end of california Street; visitors sip cabernet franc, syrah and viognier at this family-run winery. Nearby, South Stage Cellars (125 S. Third St.; 541-899-9120; southstagecellars.com) doesn’t pour the same caliber of wine, but does serve up live music and hors d’oeuvres on Friday nights. Like most small towns, Jacksonville has only a handful of dinner options, some worth visiting

Goodbean coffee and some worth avoiding. With its open kitchen, classy ambience and sophisticated menu, The Carriage House at Nunan Estate (635 N. oregon St.; 541-899-1890; nunanestate.com) quickly fell into the former category when it opened in 2008. chef Timothy Keller has two signatures: artful presentations and duck confit. And in a space that straddles the line between casual and fine dining, it’s the presentation that catches your eye. occasionally the artful platings feel gimmicky (note the smoke-filled wineglass that accompanies an appetizer cheese plate), but the presentation rarely sacrifices flavor for flair. Start with a seasonal soup, perhaps adorned with a small, delicate crepe or the aforementioned smoked goat cheese, which piques the appetite — smoke-filled glass or not. For the main course, there are ever-changing incarnations of carriage House favorites, including

filet mignon, cooked sous vide, and Keller’s divine duck confit that, if you’re lucky, arrives with a beautiful huckleberry sauce. You’ll find a more formal dining destination in Gogi’s Restaurant (235 W. main St.; 541-899-8699; gogis.net), where dark wood, green carpet and a martini-heavy cocktail list lend the space a clubby ambience befitting the retiree-aged crowd. The menu is a mishmash of international flavors from an Asianinspired sesame-crusted seared ahi to housemade pasta and panseared salmon served with a truffled fennel-orange salad and rice pilaf. The mix can feel overly eclectic but can work when proactive diners steer their meal selection toward one cultural vein. before you hit the sack, follow the locals to J’Ville Tavern (105 W. california St.; 541-899-1548) for a game of pool and a pitcher of beer. The gritty bar is one of the few places

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Wooldridge creek Winery I000 open for a nightcap in town and has plenty of character, courtesy of glowing beer signs, a jukebox and mounted animal heads that keep watch over the crowds. Set off for home after a morning pit stop at GoodBean Coffee (165 S. oregon St.; 541899-8740), a country-casual coffee shop that occupies an old saloon space downtown. bed-headed regulars and redfaced runners stop by midmorning to fuel up for the day with espresso, bagels and scratch-baked pastries such as cinnamon twists and generously portioned zucchini-walnut muffins. by the time you leave, maybe you’ll feel like you found the next Napa, maybe not. What’s certain is you’ll find plenty of excuses to make a repeat trip to this charming southern oregon town.

Jacksonville Essentials

stroll to more than 20 restaurants in ten blocks

The Britt Festival: This outdoor music and performing arts festival attracts thousands of tourists to historic Jacksonville each summer. The draw: world-class jazz, folk, country, pop, dance and classical music artists performing in a hillside amphitheater just a few blocks from town. (brittfest.org) Jacksonville Woodlands Trail System: Whether you’re into running, bird-watching or leisurely walks, you’ll appreciate the scenic creekside trails that form Jacksonville’s Woodlands Trail System. (jacksonvilleoregon.org) Applegate Valley Wine Trail: Located between historic Jacksonville and Grants pass along Highway 238, this growing wine region includes established names like Troon Vineyard and relative newcomers such as cowhorn Vineyard. (applegatewinetrail.com) £

000i

visit dozens of wineries close by shop at unique boutiques, galleries and stores

unwind in downtown McMinnville

visit our showroom 15794 SW Boones Ferry Lake Oswego 503.699.9995

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Oregon’s favorite main street!

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our picks for what to eat where

scene

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scene COMPIlED BY Grant Butler CONTRIBuTORS Grant Butler Karen Brooks Ashley Gartland Alexandra Manzano Roger Porter David Sarasohn Jake Ten Pas Amy Wang DeAnn Welker

Best of the burbs

There’s plenty of good eating to discover, even when you’re far from downtown.

Alta Crystal Resort at Mt. Rainier

The perfect little Mt. Rainier resort, tucked in the national forest. Miles of hike/bike trails from your door. Explore all day, then swim in our pool, soak in our hot tub, or come to a bbq, bonfire or Rainier program. Charming suites & romantic honeymoon log cabin.

800.227.6475 www.altacrystalresort.com

Chennai Masala 2088 N.W. Stucki Ave., Hillsboro 503-531-9500 chennaimasalaonline.com If you can get over its strip-mall setting and the cold, hard tables and chairs within, Chennai Masala will reward you with adventurous Indian cooking. Although you’ll find northern specialties such as rogan josh, the extensive menu focuses on the complex, often fiery flavors of southern India, from Hyderabad’s biryanis with spiced meat to Goa’s vindaloo. Cinnamon, cardamom, coconut milk and chiles are hallmarks of this region’s food, and the

Get more of the Portland scene, at mixPdx.com

our picks for what to eat where

nuanced curries here reveal how careful preparation makes one dish taste entirely different from the next. Skip the forgettable samosas and start with ghee paper roast ($9.45), a huge paper-thin crepe, slightly tangy and curled like a giant piece of crisp parchment. Break off a piece and dip it into the accompanying chutneys or lentil dal. Du Kuh Bee 12590 S.W. First St., Beaverton 503-643-5388 Walk into Du Kuh Bee, take one of four stools at the counter and watch the cooks go to work. From the soft dough they’ve made mere hours earlier, they cut off a few strips, stretch them to arm’s length and then, one at a time, toss them like a cowboy ready to launch a lasso, spinning the noodle to give it pliancy, elasticity and bounce. Next they plunge ribbon after ribbon into a pot of boiling water, fish them out, and into a pan of sizzling oil they go. Soon you have a platter of the freshest, chewiest, most addictive thick and slurpy noodles imaginable, unlike anything you’ve experienced at other Portland-area Asian restaurants. Aside from the noodles, which may also come with chicken, squid or shrimp, the next-best things at Du Kuh Bee (“lucky” in Korean) are the barbecued dishes. The beef ribs are nothing like what Americans are used to. Instead of long, curved bones, these are thin, flat pieces of meat, smoked over a charcoal grill without sauce and then smothered in grilled onions.

lapellahh

Five-O-Three Restaurant & Bar 21900 Willamette Drive, Suite 201, West Linn 503-607-0960 restaurant503.com Five-O-Three gives you the feeling, with its urban panache and dramatic, window-backed bar, that the restaurant has been transported from the Pearl District and perched in a shopping center along Highway 43. Executive Chef Johnny Nunn’s menu shifts with the seasons, which can be both exciting and utterly disappointing when a favorite dish disappears from the menu. The one dish the kitchen won’t risk deleting is the side of Nunn’s offbeat pommes frites ($7). Served in classy, napkin-lined bowls, these newfangled frites get a coating of creamy blue cheese butter and splash of red wine gastrique that results in a seductive, salty-sweet flavor. A garnish of fried rosemary finishes this textbook example of a balanced dish, one that makes a case for subsisting on french fries alone. Lapellah 2520 Columbia House Blvd., Vancouver 360-828-7911 lapellah.com Vancouver’s own celebrity chef, Brad Root, has expanded to an additional location in an empty corner of a new shopping center, with a name — a local tribal term for roast — reflecting his absorption with local themes. You could also get that message from the stylized canoe PHOTOGRAPH BY RANDY l. RASMuSSEN

scene hanging from the ceiling or from a skilled, imaginative, accessible menu heavy on Northwestern themes and big on meats, with flames leaping visibly in the open kitchen. Prices are moderate, with just one entree (a wood-fired steak with grilled onions) that tops $20. Seafood tends to be fried and impressive, led by a cornmealcrusted trout stuffed with Dungeness crab ($17.95), nightly gumbo (a deal at $10) or shrimp beignets. Sinju Restaurant 7339 S.W. Bridgeport Road, Tigard 503-352-3815 sinjurestaurant.com Beautiful, sometimes elaborate, usually delicious sushi rolls in stylish settings make this offshoot of the original Pearl District Japanese restaurant a destination. Come watch the sushi chefs work their magic. The large menu has other solid preparations, from tempura to teriyaki dishes. Focus on the house sushi rolls, boasting creative flavor combinations and high design that doesn’t border on the

fly — killer cheddar biscuits; perfect buckwheat waffles; impossibly light muffins; the most amazing free-form macaroons with wide curls of fresh coconut, ginger and lime. The joy here is in discovery, as with a recent salad of slow-roasted pork served hot over fresh greens, or fig-anise bread pudding. ridiculous, and the tempura prawns. The lunchtime sushi special — $10 for 13 pieces — is one of the best deals around. Sake is available, but the small, well-chosen, by-the-glass wine list is perfect for sushi pairings.

Killer carts

Celebrate summer with the best takeout from Portland’s booming cart culture. Moxie RX Roadside Juice Bar & Cafe North Mississippi Avenue and Shaver Street 503-285-0701 moxierx.com

Where did Portland get the moxie to create a maverick food cart scene with off-the-grid thinking and high-level food craft? Moxie led the way four years ago when Nancye Benson and William Macklin pulled their 1964 Kenskill trailer onto a weedy North Portland lot and found an audience willing to endure punishment — huddling at outdoor picnic tables — for handmade enchantments on the cheap. The kitchen may be small, but the ambition is impressive: even the almond paste is made on campus. This is serious cafe cooking on the PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMuRA

Nong’s Khao Man Gai Southwest Alder Street between 10th and 11th avenues 971-255-3480 khaomangai.com “Nong” Poon Sukwattana Narumol works in the style of a Bangkok vendor: staking her reputation on one dish. Her labor-intensive khao man gai (pronounced “kow mon guy“) could bring a picky Thai grandma to her knees. Each serving is a ritualistic pleasure and a steal at $6.50. On a square of white butcher paper, Nong first unmolds a heap of superior rice, cooked with giant knobs of ginger and footlong, vanilla-esque panadaus leaves. Each grain is flavor-rich and moist. She adds rough-cut chicken

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scene slow-poached until succulent as a peach, plus cucumbers and cilantro, then bundles it all into a package bound with a rubber band. As is Thai custom, a delicate broth comes on the side to wash it all back, to keep the throat moist. But the stairway to heaven is the sauce: a deep thrash of fresh ginger, Thai chiles, fermented soybeans and Nong’s cane sugar syrup. Nuevo Mexico North Mississippi Avenue and Skidmore Street, in Mississippi Marketplace The sopaipillas, or crisp fry bread, at this cart are a revelation. Jesse Sandoval adds butter and eggs to the typical water/flour/shortening foundation, so these pastry pockets emerge from the fryer like some great head-on collision between an elegant turnover and a doughnut. After a slit in the middle, the stuffing begins: crisp lettuce, a choice of fillings, tomatoes and grated cheddar, each with its own job. Get in on the ground beef mingled

with creamy pinto beans and a green chile slow burn ($6) or the ember-red, warm-your-ears, carne adovada, thick with pork shreds, smoky red chiles and cumin-garlic notes ($6.50). Potato Champion Southeast 12th Avenue and Hawthorne Boulevard 503-347-0287 potatochampion.com Imagine the perfect Belgian fries: fresh-cut, fried not once but twice, and super-crispy without and fluffycreamy within, served piping hot with just the right salt attack. The 6-month-old Potato Champion has it all, the art and the science, all spilling out of a paper cone for $3.50. like any good friterie, this one offers a large selection of dipping sauces, including anchovy mayo (try it), satay sauce (interesting), ketchup with rosemary and truffle oil (move on) and — the ultimate — sweet-hot mustard sauce. Yes, mustard sounds strange with fries, but trust me: This homemade formula is a startlement, a nostril

Nuevo Mexico slapper, a game changer. If you’re really flying, also try the “poutine,” the Canadian soul-food combo of fries, spicy brown gravy and cheese curds. Rich doesn’t begin to cover it, but neither does wonderfully evil. Tabor Southwest Stark Street and Fifth Avenue 503-997-5467 schnitzelwich.com Karel Vitek’s path to the top tier of Portland’s food cart scene has been anything but straight. He escaped communist Czechoslovakia in 1985, literally swimming to Austria, then making his way, by chance, to Port-

land. He spent 12 years getting a philosophy degree at Portland State university, then escaped the world of academia for a different school of thought: authentic Czech cooking. With his wife, Monica, ever-present at the window, Tabor bolted onto the scene in 2005 behind hulking pork schnitzel sandwiches, the signature dish that everyone orders. They’re fine, but they don’t hint at what’s extraordinary here: generous Czech cooking made from scratch in the morning, from fruit-filled dumplings to chicken paprika, all for a mere $3.50-$7. PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMuRA

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hiGh five sPectacular veGGies Baby carrot salad at Clyde Common: This $9 starter salad from one of downtown’s most forward-thinking kitchens pairs pencil-thin baby carrots with equally svelte bits of asparagus, dainty radishes and a smattering of watercress. The crowning touch that pulls it all together is a drizzling of elegantly understated tarragon-laced vinaigrette, which adds a touch of tartness but doesn’t overpower the essence of the vegetables. 1014 S.W. Stark St. 503-228-3333 clydecommon.com

Earlier this year, celebrity chef José Andrés startled “60 Minutes” co-host Anderson Cooper when he proclaimed that meat is boring and that fruits and vegetables are sexy. Maybe it’s a sign that our great national fixation with bacon is on the way out. Celebrate the arrival of a new culinary tide with these delicious — and occasionally sexy! — vegetable-focused dishes. — GRANT BuTlER Pasta fagioli at Blossoming Lotus: This posh Irvington kitchen offers a veggiefocused pasta dish that’s so filling it could satisfy a linebacker. Al dente corkscrew noodles made out of brown rice are tossed with steamed kale, fresh vegetable marinara and bits of roasted squash, then topped with almond mozzarella and sesame parmesan. A $10 portion is enough for two meals, so expect leftovers or be ready to share. 1713 N.E. 15th Ave. 503-228-0048 blpdx.com

Vegan bowl at Bridgeport Brewpub: This rustic Pearl District pub is known for meaty fare such as its half-pound burger and a pot roast sandwich. But it makes sure there’s a place for everyone at the table with its $10.50 vegan bowl, with hunks for grilled tofu served on a bed of nutty quinoa and black beans, then dressed up with kale, sugar snap peas, thread-thin slices of red pepper, plus shredded carrot salad and a sweet cashew cream drizzled over the whole

Blossoming lotus affair. Want to dress it up even further? You can add avocado slices for an additional $1.25. 1313 N.W. Marshall St. 503-241-3612 bridgeportbrew.com “Chicken” salad sub at D.C. Vegetarian: Chicken salad is a summertime classic, and now vegans can enjoy it, too, in this hefty sub that mixes vegan soy curls, plenty of celery and red onion with egg-free mayonnaise. It’s a steal at just $5, leaving you money to dress it up even further with tomato and lettuce for 25 cents, or go faux-hog with strips of tempeh bacon for an additional buck. Southwest Third Avenue between Stark and Washington streets 503-317-4448 dcvegetarian.com

Garden pita at The Pita Pit: When you think fast food, you think of unhealthy stuff that will send a nutritionist off the deep end. Then there’s this national chain, where healthy vegetables are at the heart of every pita wrap. The Garden Pita ($4.25) fills a whole wheat pocket with mix-and-match romaine, spinach, tomatoes, onions, green peppers, sliced cucumber, pickles, black olives and hot peppers. Dress it with your choice of sauce, such as tangy yogurt-based tzatziki, salsa or a spicy vinaigrette. For added richness, get a 50-cent add-on of hummus or baba ghanouj. The good news: Most of these combos ring in at under 500 calories. Six metro-area locations, including 1811 S.W. Fifth Ave. 503-222-7482 pitapitusa.com £ PHOTOGRAPH BY FAITH CATHCART

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