MIX Magazine June 2010 by Mix Magazine

June ’10 Portland’s Magazine of Food + Drink

SPECIAL: Guide to summer eating and drinking Best outdoor spots, plus markets, great recipes

REASONS WHY WE LOVE PORTLAND IN THE SUMMER

JUNE ‘10

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contributors

Freelance food stylist caroline ford had a great time laughing and eating salads with Beth and Reed on set during the “Guide to Summer” shoot. The recipes are perfect for cooking from the summer garden and eating dinner on the deck (Page 43). During the shoot this April, the crew faked summer, but Caroline can’t wait for real summertime to arrive, which for her is wearing flip-flops, eating too much ice cream and having berry stains on her fingers. A cookbook collector, kitchen adventurer and restaurant cook, she is happiest when making food look as delicious as it tastes.

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beth nakamura is a staff photographer at The Oregonian. She says this about the photo shoot for the salad recipes: “If laughing two days straight while doing the salad shoot with designer Reed Darmon and food stylist Caroline Ford constitutes working for a living, then don’t mind me while I become a workaholic. I wondered in the middle of it all what someone would think if they walked into our little tableau, which clearly took on a life of its own: Vera tableware, foam plates, plastic utensils. We were both captivated and transported by the strange retro quality of everything around us. And I don’t think I could have asked for better traveling partners than those two.”

For MIX designer reed darmon, “summer eating” evokes a particular memory: church ladies setting out their legendary casseroles on a hot picnic table with matching napkins and Tupperware, waving off the flies. Back then it seemed like it was always hot out. In Portland we wait and hope, and go for broke when summer finally comes. In the photography and design of this issue, he wanted to channel those sunny days by way of the ’70s designer-icon Vera because her napkins and place mats epitomized those halcyon times: bold, colorful and sociable. Reed has designed MIX for two years and has been an author/ designer for Chronicle Books. He is currently organizing a traveling show of Chinese pop culture.

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OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS kathleen baner, lucy burningham, grant butler, john foyston, ashley gartland, raechel sims OTHER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS/ILLUSTRATORS mike davis, jamie francis, ross william hamilton, martha holmberg, fredrick d. joe, jerry kane, michael lloyd, stephanie yao long, motoya nakamura, susan seubert, john m. vincent

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volume 4 / issue 5

mixpdx.com MARThA hOLMBERg / editor

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summer guide

ways to devour the best of the summer season

photograph by motoya nakamura

When the weather heats up, so do our spirits. And what do high-spirited Portlanders like to do the most? Eat and drink, of course, preferably outside in the sun, or under the moon and stars. To that end, we’ve asked some of our favorite contributors to give us advice on places to make that happen. And before we do the eating, lots of us like to do the cooking ourselves, so we’re giving you what you need for farmers market shopping, plus 29 recipes for summer salads to show off all that seasonal spirit. — mArThA holmbErg

17 Great places for

outdoor dininG

23 Wonderful spots

for drinkinG outside

33 noshes to eat

While you’re at the farmers market

40 a map to keep:

complete info on all our farmers markets

43 salad recipes for

every conceivable occasion

67 tips for perfect salad,

Garnishes, dressinGs

71 hot-Weather

cocktails

72 refreshinG beers

for summer

summer guide

Departure Restaurant and Lounge / p.21

PlAces TO GeT A side Of viTAmin d — OR AT leAsT sOme fResH AiR —wHile YOu dine Hello, Summer Weather, please pull up a chair and stay awhile in Portland — at least long enough for us to pull up some chairs and have a few meals at one of Portland’s many patio-centric dining spots. Whether surrounded by raucous happy hour crowds or simply the swish of the breeze and chirping of crickets, a table in the warm, dry, beauteous air of a Portland summer is the place to be. The bonus? Cold pints, tasty small plates and clever cocktails. We’re not attempting to list every place in Portland with a picnic table on the sidewalk; in this sampling, we focus on real patios, from magical havens filled with tropical plants to glam see-and-be-seen spots hovering skyward. Here’s what we discovered, en plein air. — By LuCy BurningHam PHOTOGRAPH BY jAmie fRAncis

outdoor dining cont.

nORTH Best place to eat at a food cart

equinox restaurant & Bar

➤

Best just-off-Mississippi hideaway 830 n. shaver st. 503-460-3333 equinoxrestaurantpdx.com

4237 n. mississippi Ave. 503-954-2674 prostportland.com

This neighborhoody joint more than doubles in size during warm weather, when garage doors roll up to extend a warm bar and restaurant out into a quiet, spacious patio just off north mississippi Avenue. The flagstone-covered patio is peppered with tables with umbrellas and heaters, creating the ideal spot for a brunch of smoked salmon hash and a spicy Bloody mary made with house-infused serrano or horseradish vodka. dinnertime feels magical; choose a bottle of wine to accompany crunchy salads and a plate of steak frites.

let’s be honest, food carts are fun, but not that accommodating seating-wise. either they’re grab-and-go or wait-wait-wait for a tiny table. Problem solved at the mississippi marketplace, the food cart pod featuring The sugar cube, The Big egg, nuevo mexico and more. Order anything from the carts and head to the adjacent patio at Prost, a pub specializing in German beer. Yes, Prost also serves food, which may make you feel like you just snuck candy into a movie theater, but don’t worry — the pub encourages patrons to bring food cart fare to the table. in addition to serving 10 German beers on tap in appropriate glassware, servers can help you pair, say, chocolate bread pudding with salted caramel and coffee cream or a sopaipilla with spicy beef and green chiles with a food-friendly brew.

Prost

PHOTOGRAPH BY BeTH nAKAmuRA

nORTHeAsT Nepo 42

5403 n.e. 42nd Ave. 503-288-8080 nepo42.com This bar-slash-restaurant is kid-friendly and sportsfan friendly, the kind of place with free pool and wings specials during Blazers games. And in the summer, it’s a great spot for a straightforward Oregon beer on the patio. Be prepared to rub elbows with concordia residents who pop by for a quick neighborhood drink. Pro TiP: “Great patio and good pub food. what more could you want?” — mike lee, bartender at equinox

Best secret garden

Best camouflage

Bakery Bar

2935 n.e. Glisan st. 503-477-7779 bakerybar.com sometimes it’s hard to see the bakery through the trees. The paved patio at Bakery Bar dominates the street front with picnic tables, umbrellas, a bike rack and some pretty planters. Hiding in the bright building just behind the patio is the source of all things delicious. with the new cocktail list (hello, Bloody mary) and an expanded brunch menu that includes egg sandwiches on homemade biscuits with tomato jam and some of the most delicious scones in town, the patio is a true sunny spot.

Alu

Everyone goes there, but …

2831 n.e. martin luther King jr. Blvd. 503-262-9463 aluwinebar.com

Tin shed

1438 n.e. Alberta st. 503-288-6966 tinshedgardencafe.com

A sultry interior, like a wellappointed boudoir, leads to a lovely back patio, the kind of place where hours can slip by unnoticed, fueled by great domestic beers on tap (think dogfish Head and Green flash) and complex cocktails garnished with everything from smoked sea salt to maple syrup. snack on housemade duck prosciutto or satisfy a deeper hunger with something heavier, such as gnocchi and chicken confit.

so it’s a staple, the kind of place you take out-oftowners or friends feeling nostalgic for something comfortably Portland. But that’s no reason to snub this popular patio destination. with a blooming garden, brick fireplace inside a covered space that shares a wall with the famous corrugated steel walls of the Tin shed restaurant, this patio has come to define summertime dining on Alberta street. Grab a mug of coffee from the self-serve station during the mandatory wait for a table and work up an appetite for a scramble or a burger. dogs allowed and acknowledged with a doggie section on the menu.

Pro TiP: “The patio at Alu is beautiful. i want to live there. There is something especially magical about secret gardens on really busy streets. You’re on mlK one minute with cars flying by, and then you’re in this little green world. love that.” — sarah Hart, owner, Alma chocolates

Best place to feel civilized

Yakuza Lounge 5411 n.e. 30th Ave. 503-450-0893 yakuzalounge.com Behind this sleek northeast Portland sushi and Asian fusion restaurant, wood-slat tables, candles and modern red chairs create a decidedly civilized setting. The garden frames the scene with a fuzzy but manicured appearance — a place less suited to 3-year-olds or quick-fix happy-hour-goers than the diner looking for a fine bite of raw fish. Try

the hamachi roll, with its minced yellowtail, Bosc pear, avocado and shaved jalapeño and wash it down with an Asahi or a splash of the appropriate “star filled sky” junmai Ginjo sake. Pro TiP: “Tim and i usually order four or five dishes, so there’s an array of delicious, inventive flavors on the table, plus a beer or two. it makes for a nice, relaxing evening at a pretty modest price for a nice meal out.” — luan schooler, owner of foster & dobbs

Best place to pour on the charm

Bernie’s southern Bistro 2904 n.e. Alberta st. 503-282-9864 berniesbistro.com Another Alberta hot spot features a wood-planked patio surrounded by leafy trees. At night, candlelight transforms the space into a romantic little date spot. Kick off any meal with a cocktail, such as a lynchburg lemonade, then order up some standard southern fare: pulled pork sandwiches, buttermilk fried chicken, red beans and rice, and fried dill pickles.

Best sunset-watching spot

➤

Best place to feel neighborly

Noble rot

1111 e. Burnside st. 503-233-1999 noblerotpdx.com

when noble Rot moved from its cozy spot off southeast 28th Avenue, there were complainers. But there’s no denying the allure of the new patio, perched high above the growl of east Burnside, facing downtown. The limited seating is highly coveted, especially on balmy summer evenings as the sun dips below the west Hills, so be prepared to wait. PHOTOGRAPH BY fRedRicK d. jOe

outdoor dining cont.

sOuTHeAsT ➤

Best place to noodle around

Pok Pok

Best cafe society

Cafe Castagna

3226 s.e. division st. 503-232-1387 www.pokpokpdx.com

1758 s.e. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-231-9959 castagnarestaurant.com

Pok Pok’s tastiness has expanded across the street to its whiskey soda lounge, but you can still eat in semi-streetmarket-style outdoors. The patio is now a plastic-enclosed city of wood tables, huts, heating lamps and colored lights. Order off the full menu or grab a special of the day on the shack blackboard. And don’t miss the great summer drinks: limeade, Thai ice tea and seasonal drinking vinegars to go with the signature lemon-grass-stuffed grilled chicken and some of the best noodles you’ll eat anywhere.

Two small, civilized, european-style patios serve fare from either the cafe or the restaurant. sheltered from the action on Hawthorne, the cafe’s patio is a great place to try the famous burger and fries, salmon with lentils or arancini filled with fontina. start with a lillet or a blackberry lemon drop.

PHOTOGRAPHs BY susAn seuBeRT

Pro TiP: “when i first moved to Portland, i lived across the street from cafe castagna. my favorite time of year was alfresco dining on the patio. not too many places offer such good food, good wine and good service on the patio as castagna.” — Kelley swenson, bartender at Ten-01

sOuTHwesT ➤

Most modern meeting grounds

Nel Centro

1408 s.w. sixth Ave. 503-484-1099 nelcentro.com

This grown-up contemporary courtyard has quickly become known as one of downtown’s best outdoor spaces. maybe it’s the outdoor fire pits, which take the chill off any cool evening, or the modern wall planters that look more like modern art than mere backdrop decor. The new Hotel modera surrounds the space, giving patrons the sense of the possibilities that come in the spaces surrounding travelers, such as meeting a new out-of-town friend or seeing your own city in a new light. simple italian fare with a french twist — think Riviera — and a deep euro wine list.

PHOTOGRAPH BY sTePHAnie YAO lOnG

Best place to be L.A.

departure restaurant and Lounge

Best place to go after the show

Veritable Quandary

525 s.w. morrison st. 503-802-5370 departureportland.com

1220 s.w. first Ave. 503-227-7342 veritablequandary.com

Get polished up and head to departure, a restaurant and lounge on the 15th floor of The nines Hotel. This is the kind of place that draws people in their best designer looks — it’s very see-and-be-seen. lounge on the rooftop deck during happy hour, and if your stilettos are killing you, kick up your feet on one of the long l-shaped outdoor sofas. Take advantage of the deep sake and shochu list, or try a signature cocktail such as the Hatori Hanzo, with Belvedere, daigino sake, cucumber and Thai chile, while drinking in the view.

A combination of a Boston brownstone and an english garden, dinners here tend to be drawn-out affairs, as patrons gleefully cling to their outdoor tables even if it means donning a shawl after daylight fades. They sit tucked between the river and the edge of the downtown skyline, a magical spot for the post-theater crowd with a hunger for some discussion and eats. expect classic northwest cuisine.

outdoor dining cont.

nORTHwesT Best place to get fresh

meriwether’s restaurant 2601 n.w. vaughn st. 503-228-1250 meriwethersnw.com This lush, classic garden patio in northwest, with its covered patio and a gazebo, feels like a euro retreat. The restaurant serves food made from the bounty from their nearby five-acre vegetable farm, which makes salads exceptionally fresh and tasty. classic cocktails and northwest wines by the glass make happy hour food, such as harissa chicken wings and a beet salad with feta, tempting. Pro TiP: “not many people know about it, but the patio has lots of great features: offset from the street in the back of the restaurant, outdoor fire pit, lots of plants, birdhouses, covered roof, etc. it’s not my favorite food, but i still go there for the patio.” — food dude, founder of portlandfoodanddrink.com

Best hour of power

➤

Bluehour

4237 n. mississippi Ave. 503-954-2674 prostportland.com

Gerding Theater at the Armory 128 NW Eleventh Avenue

503.445.3700

www.pcs.org

A Pearl district institution, famous for power lunches and even more powerful happy hours, Bluehour has a neat line of tables with umbrellas along the 13th Avenue loading dock. let the sophisticated interior sway your drink choice, with a glass of bubbly or a specialty cocktail. Then dig into bacon-wrapped scallops and oysters on the half shell. don’t miss the menu de fromage, with its mouthwatering rotation that includes some spanish sheep’s and italian cow’s milk delights. £ PHOTOGRAPH BY jOHn m. vincenT

MAY �� JUNE ��

summer guide

Of PORTlAnd’s BesT PlAces TO quencH YOuR THiRsT feATuRinG THe cOOlesT summeR AccessORY: A PATiO

On a warm summer night there’s nothing more refreshing than a chilly cocktail or a frosty pint of India pale ale — unless it’s sipping that beverage outside under starlight. Fortunately, some of the Portland area’s best watering holes know that outdoor drinking is warm-weather bliss, even though the season can be as short as two or three months. No matter: They’ve dressed up patios and decks to help you cool down with an even cooler crowd. One of the pleasures of patio bars is that they attract customers who may not be regulars, fresh faces who want to beat the heat and enjoy the open skies. So hit the patio. You never know who you’ll meet. — bY GraNT buTler

PHOTOGRAPH BY sTePHAnie YAO lOnG

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outdoor drinking cont. Aalto Lounge 3356 s.e. Belmont st. 503-235-6041 The decor is a thrift-store homage to the great modernist finnish designer who gives this Belmont hangout its name — minimalist, vaguely scandinavian chairs and tables, plus art hanging on the walls and low, flirtfriendly lighting. The back partially covered patio tosses any design pretensions overboard — it’s a funky, casual space, lit by red strings of lights, where friends can loudly debate quentin Tarantino’s scripts and argue politics while enjoying cocktails and late-night eats. Who goes there: notorious for both its hipster crowd and servers who range from lowkey to i’m-cooler-than-you oblivious, the Aalto’s denizens get more eclectic in the backroom and patio. imbibe: full bar with qualityingredient cocktails; a smartly chosen, compact wine list; and beers ranging from imports to PBR. Nibbles: Tasty sandwiches on baguettes and Pearl Bakery bread include panini, croque monsieur and pulled pork, plus salads, pasta and the “Aalto Board,” a scrumptious assortment of charcuterie, cheese and bread. Quibbles: The back patio’s view of a chain-link fence and a neighboring business’s kitchen/storage/whatever area isn’t what you’d call romantic.

➤

Best

Alu

2831 n.e. martin luther King Jr. Blvd. 503-262-9463 aluwinebar.com After a brief closure, this neighborhood restaurant reopened last year with a new chef and a new mission, and an evening here makes for quietly serious and surprisingly enjoyable dining. The main dining room is like a french boudoir, with overstuffed couches and elegant touches. But the back patio offers alfresco intimacy, the perfect place for a glass of refreshing rosé and a light bite. Who goes there: lots of dapper men and elegantly dressed women show up here — clearly the decor inspires the outfits, though you’ll find the jeans and skechers crowd here, too. imbibe: The long beer list includes hard-to-find barleywines and Belgian ales. The wine list features a strong selection of northwest vintages, with notations of which wines are vegan, biodynamic, organic, sustainable and made by female winemakers. it’s ultra P.c., but a nice touch! Nibbles: Keep an eye on earnest young chef sean Temple, who has put in stints at Jean Georges in new York and Paley’s Place locally. There’s a sublime platter of roasted carrots rubbed with coriander and anchovies and drizzled with olive oil, and there’s homemade pork rillettes — a moist, smooth mixture rich with delicious fat, spreadable on the accompanying baguette, punched with intense flavor and flecked with paper-thin slices of radish. Quibbles: Alu is an oxymoron: rough beams for rusticity and blood-red-flocked wallpaper in the restroom for a stab at elegance. PHOTOGRAPH BY mOTOYA nAKAmuRA

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Amnesia Brewing

832 n. Beech st. 503-281-7708

classic Portland brewpub meets the perfect beer garden: a cavernous converted former ironwork shop with a backroom that’s jammed with tanks, kettles, wort chillers, sacks of grain and stacks of kegs waiting to be filled with that fine Amnesia beer. There are tables in the front room, local art on the walls and a fine covered forecourt with picnic tables and a peerless view of the bustling mississippi streetscape. Who goes there: The young and the beautiful. Working-class guys. Retired folks. footsore shoppers. dogs. Bicyclisti. Hipsters and other north mississippi all-stars. it’s a fine, genial pub and, like all great examples of the genre, it caters to almost everybody regardless of age or number of piercings. imbibe: Brewer/owner Kevin King always has a couple of great india pale ales, such as copacetic and desolation, on tap, and his other beers include seasonals such as the excellent sleighjerker — and the all-too rare sour Power cherry ale. Nibbles: All the food comes off the outdoor barbie here; a limited but solid array of burgers and brats with a couple of veggie options served with chips and the famous six-pack o’ mustard. Quibbles: Outside accounts keep King and his assistant brewer busy enough with the main menu brews that there can be a long wait between those special beers.

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outdoor dining cont. doug Fir restaurant/Bar/Lounge

830 e. Burnside st. 503-231-9663 dougfirlounge.com

The rough-hewn, northwestern-lodge aesthetic of the lower Burnside restaurant and ultrapopular music venue loosens up on the outside patio. Roomy and casual, it’s an assemblage of umbrella-covered picnic tables; at one end is a fire pit, around which you may see friends gathered, or a stray guest from the adjacent Jupiter Hotel, looking a little out of place as he reads the paper. Who goes there: if it’s inner eastside Portland, you can guess — hello, hipsters! Plus, a few suburban types and occasional Jupiter Hotel guests. imbibe: cocktails (Burnside Boilermaker, anyone?), wines and brews, both micro and macro. Nibbles: You know you shouldn’t but, c’mon — cheese fries! Other choices include soups, chicken fingers, croque monsieur (the frenchie sandwich that seems to be invading Portland bars), salads, burgers and artichoke and spinach dip. Quibbles: This view isn’t divine: You watch as Jupiter Hotel guests walk past. And the service can be on the casual side — as in, where is it?

eastBurn 1800 e. Burnside st. 503-236-2876 theeastburn.com Wild mood swings, but with swings. eastBurn offers sitdown dining on the main level and drinking at a chic little bar. Things are casual in the rumpus room of a basement (think: skee-Ball and miller High life). But this time of year, the tropical-styled patio out back is the draw. With its overhead heaters and tabletop mini-fire pits and, best of all, chair swings, it’s like some super-cool east sider’s version of a back porch. The compact space is buffered from the street by plantings and blue walls, sheltered from the elements by a retractable canvas roof. Rad! Who goes there: Beverage connoisseurs; spillovers from the northeast 28th Avenue scene.

imbibe: There are 16 taps if you want suds, and 15 wines by the glass if you don’t. House cocktails booze it up; the Portland Raindrop will pucker your palate with lemongrass-lime vodka, while the Vivacious mary is smokin’ with house-smoked tomatoes and new deal’s Hot monkey Vodka. Nibbles: Higher quality than your typical bar fare. Walletand tastebud-worthy choices include a rich penne macand-cheese ($6) and crunchy calamari ($9) atop marinara. Quibbles: Get a few sun Burns (muddled lemon/lime, vanilla vodka, malibu rum, pineapple, cranberry) in you, and that swing chair is like having bed spins in public and the table fire pit suddenly is a first-degree burn hazard. service out yonder can be m.i.A. PHOTOGRAPH BY micHAel llOYd

North 45

➤

517 n.W. 21st Ave. 503-248-6317 north45pub.com

Hedge House

3412 s.e. division st. 503-235-2215 newoldlompoc.com A local in the best sense, this family-friendly place in a revamped craftsman bungalow serves its inner southeast clinton/division neighborhood admirably. There are ample multilevel, covered beer patios and a front porch just right for lazing away an afternoon with a pint and a book. Who goes there: neighbors, families, kids, dogs. during snowstorms a few years back, hardy sou’easters cross-country skied here for pints of lsd — lompoc strong draft. imbibe: A full line of lompoc beers brewed at sister pubs the 5th quadrant and the new Old lompoc cover all the beer bases admirably. c-note is a favorite for us hopheads. Nibbles: The kitchen does a good job with limited real estate and turns out a solid array of apps, salads and sandwiches, including the signature P.A.B.s.T.: provolone, avocado, bacon, sprouts and tomato on rustic sourdough. Quibbles: The floor plan is a bit convoluted and cozy due to the pub’s beginnings as a smallish house. PHOTOGRAPH BY ROss WilliAm HAmilTOn

Night Light Lounge 2100 s.e. clinton st. 503-731-6500 nightlightlounge.net This popular clinton street bar has two of the most-inviting indoor bar spaces, where people gather yearround for art openings, birthday parties and $1 PBR sundays. The real action, though, is on the elaborate patio out back, which has a wraparound bench so large it can seat 20 people, plus umbrella’d tables providing shade on sunny days. Who goes there: A mix of fisherman cap-wearing hipsters and neighborhood regulars, plus people waiting for tables at other nearby restaurants.

imbibe: The Ginger-chai, which the menu describes as “Gandhi goes uptown!,” has vanilla and ginger vodka, plus a splash of Oregon chai. if that’s too highconcept, there’s an array of local beers on tap, plus limited wines by the glass. Nibbles: it’s a big step up from pub grub, with plenty of $3-$5 happy hour deals, plus entrees like duck confit ravioli, Korean braised short ribs, and tofu stir-fried with organic vegetables. Quibbles: it’s tucked in the middle of a residential area, so you may get icy glares from neighbors if you’re noisy when heading back to your car.

This sophisticated pub is an upscale alternative to the divey spots nearby, and in the summertime, its back patio may be the perfect spot for hanging out with friends at one of the dozen picnic tables in the glow beneath strands of twinkling white lights. On the busiest nights they staff the patio’s bar, keeping spirits flowing, and in the heart of summer, specials such as barbecued ribs come off of the grills. Who goes there: The crowd is a bit older than nearby bars, and they’re not here solely for drinking, which keeps the vibe cool yet low-key. imbibe: Though there’s a full bar and a limited wine list, the emphasis is on seven Belgian beers produced by Trappist monks, and the food menu recommends pairings. Nibbles: The kitchen’s signature steamed mussels, which come in a choice of eight broths inspired by global travels, are accompanied by Belgian-style fries with aioli dipping sauce. There’s a substantial caesar salad, and a hefty plate of chicken wings. Quibbles: space heaters don’t always get turned on when temperatures nose dive.

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Rontoms

Radio Room

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1101 n.E. Alberta St. 503-287-2346

600 E. Burnside St. 503-236-4536

The outdoor patio and the adjacent second-floor deck offer commanding west-facing views of sunsets and the dramatic bell towers of northeast Alberta Street landmark St. Andrew Catholic Church. But the religion that goes on at this neighborhood bar is all about jiggers and cocktail shakers, as bartenders whip up batches of creative drinks — perfect for cooling off on hot summer nights (though if it’s chilly, they’ll light the fire pit, adding to the ambience). Who goes there: kids are allowed on the main patio until 9 p.m., so early-evening diners often include families. Later, the pace picks up as Djs spin and occasional film and music events draw a younger clientele. Imbibe: Full bar with quality-ingredient cocktails; a smart, concise wine list with some glasses priced at just $4; and beers ranging from imports to Miller high Life, on draught for just $2.50. Nibbles: The extensive menu features simple bar snacks — hot wings, fried calamari, onion rings — as well as eight burger variations, salads and eight entrees, ranging from $9 to $12. At the twice daily happy hour (3-6 p.m., and 11 p.m.-2 a.m.), there are about a dozen snack options, running $2-$5. Quibbles: Smoking is still allowed on the top deck, so you may have to peer through a haze to drink in the beautiful view.

This is a true gathering place, and large groups are the norm. The large, partially covered back patio has a vaguely LA feel sans most of the pretension, and it stays lively after dark. Who goes there: The crowd isn’t easily categorized, though it leans toward gainfully employed twentysomethings. On a good night it can feel like the spillover from your cousin’s surprisingly fun wedding reception. Imbibe: The basics prevail, including Löwenbräu. You won’t find mojitos or fancy Cosmos here, though you will find an array of Oregondistilled liquors, including an aquavit made in Portland. Nibbles: The tuna melt, cheddar and chocolate fondues, and deviled eggs — all upgraded from the traditional — will kindle Midwesterners’ nostalgia. There’s also a roasted beet salad and tofu kebabs if you like that sort of thing. Quibbles: Service can be slow, and, when the place gets really packed, almost nonexistent. PhOTgrAPh BY jErrY kAnE

21st Avenue Bar & grill 721 n.W. 21st Ave. 503-222-4121 each year, the indoor spaces of this popular bar look a bit dingier, so the carefully manicured back garden, where shadeloving hostas, Japanese maples and hydrangeas flourish near a trickling pond, comes as a surprise. As dusk settles, strings of colorful globe lights add warm ambience. most of the seating is at short picnic tables designed to fit four people, keeping the feel intimate. Things rarely get loud, even when it’s packed — another departure from the noisy indoor bar. Who goes there: There are lots of neighborhood diners in the early evening, though the crowd gets younger and more boisterous as the evening wears on (and as nearby bars have their earlier last calls).

Vendetta 4306 n. Williams Ave. 503-288-1085

imbibe: A full bar is available, so you can get that Grey Goose martini or a Red Bull and stoli if that’s your pleasure. most tables are knocking back pints of mass-produced commercial beer. Nibbles: There are lots of new additions to the menu of pub grub, including a substantial chicken quesadilla and a warm avocado salad, as well as the ubiquitous hot wings. Quibbles: Waiters aren’t quick when it comes to cleanup, so dishes may sit on tables long after diners are done.

lacking obvious signage, look for the green garage with the red “R” in the window at north Williams and skidmore — sweet revenge for those times when mississippi Avenue hot spots are too hopping to chill out in. inside, Vendetta is laid back, unless there’s a tabletop shuffleboard game in contention. Outside, the spacious back garden beckons with its Zen landscaping and the satisfying crunch of gravel underfoot. scattered tables are perfect for privacy, while bench seating encourages the invasion of personal space. Who goes there: Artsy-fartsy mississippi Avenue types toting pet chickens; daytime bar habitués; couples lost in conversation (and their own little world).

imbibe: This is a well-drinkand-beer kinda place — ordering a margarita is getting fancy. The patio even has its own little ante-bar, and there are daily happy hour specials. Nibbles: The menu is limited in size but tasty. salty pretzel sticks with hot mustard are perfectly simple bar food. for meatier appetites, there’s a sweet sloppy Joe and a spicy pulled-pork sandwich. Quibbles: forgetfulness is just not a good quality in a bartender. The patio shuts down at 11 p.m. so as to keep the neighborhood peace: considerate or lame? You make the call. £

— Rachel Bachman, John Foyston, Kristi Turnquist and Shawn Vitt contributed to these reviews.

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fARmeRs mARkeTs wHeRe YOu cAn keeP uP YOuR sTRenGTH wHile YOu Revel in THe BOunTY. The French term cuisine du marché translates roughly as “cooking from the market,” and it’s an apt term for how many of us in Portland cook and eat — local, seasonal, spanking fresh. Get to a market early and you can catch some of Portland’s best chefs prowling the aisles for the specials that will grace their menus that week, if not that very day. And there are market chefs such as Mark Doxtader of Tastebud, Chris Douglas of Savory et Sweet and Sophie Rahman of Masala who literally shop the market in the darkness before it opens to gather the ingredients they’ll feature in their stalls later in the morning when shoppers arrive. Food that was picked from the field only hours before, then prepared right before you eat it? For my money that makes Portland’s farmers markets some of the freshest and cheapest places to eat in this food-crazy town. So to bring it all full circle, eat market-fresh food while you shop for ingredients to cook yourself. We’ve scoured the local market scene for the best and the brightest preparedfood vendors at six Portland markets. A word to the wise: Several of those mentioned attend more than one market, so check the market websites for their current vendor lists. — KATHLEEN BAUER PHOTOGRAPHY BY mOTOYA nAkAmuRA

BeAveRTOn fARmeRs mARkeT

When: 8 a.m.-1:30 p.m. saturday; 3-6 p.m. wednesday Where: On southwest Hall Boulevard between Third and fifth streets Web: www.beavertonfarmersmarket.com Fetzer’s Sausages far and away the most popular food at the market; people line up at 8 in the morning for them. The real deal, Gene fetzer learned his craft in Germany and makes his sausages in the

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Pacific Pie Co. for a taste of the land of Oz, you need look no further than these authentic Australian hand pies. using local ingredients and only naturally raised meat, they offer a wide variety of flavors, including classic beef, chicken satay and moroccan chickpea. it’s the ultimate farmers market experience: authentic food, made with a commitment to sustainable ingredients. even better, they’re easy to eat as you walk around the market!

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Old world, traditional fashion using only carlton farms meat, with no additives or fillers. And if you’re a Reuben fan, theirs is rumored to have the freshest sauerkraut in town.

Hoda’s Middle Eastern Cuisine Hoda khouri spent hours in the kitchen perfecting the details of the lebanese food she remembered from her childhood, such as the tabbouleh salad she makes from the fresh parsley, tomatoes and green onions grown by market farmers. Her humos-bi-tahini and falafel are made from scratch with organic garbanzos, and the fresh pita is said to rival the best in Beirut. Country Grains if it’s breakfast you’re craving, no matter the time of day, you can’t do better than the waffles, breakfast sandwiches, grilled bagels, cinnamon rolls and mile-

high biscuits sold at this stall. if you’d prefer more lunchlike fare, their panini sandwiches will meet with your approval, and who could turn away from some fresh strawberry shortcake for dessert? Moh’s Mobile Kitchen famed for their authentic pad Thai, moh’s specializes in the hard-to-find dishes of laos. if you’re like me and consider this the perfect breakfast food, you’ve got a choice of their egg rolls, salad rolls, lemon grass beef sticks, teriyaki chicken sticks and fried rice. who needs pancakes?

mOnTAvillA fARmeRs mARkeT

When: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. sunday Where: 7600 s.e. stark st. Web: www.montavillamarket.org Kebab-a-Rama John sonksen wants to send your mouth on a trip around the globe with ingredients sourced from just around the corner with his new venture specializing in sustainably raised meats and vegetables, with flavors ranging from the familiar to the exotic. Different sauces, from teriyaki and barbecue to moroccan, caribbean, indian and southeast Asian, adorn his meat and vegetable kebabs, leaving your tastebuds wanting more. my advice? Order an extra one for the trip home. Kitchen Dances vegan and gluten free are the new buzzwords among market vendors, and this one goes one better by arriving on a bike.

neighborhood resident and urban farmer Piper Dixon plans to offer unique and delicious wraps with both flour and — get this — sturdy greens such as collards for the wrappers. These are then stuffed with vegetables grown in his garden and drizzled with savory-sweet sauces. considering he was a former partner in neighborhood hot spot Proper eats, he’ll no doubt have an instant following. Crabby Addies There are few things that catch my attention the instant i hear them mentioned, and homemade crab cakes are one. lately fish and chips have been added to that list, and Tammy Hagerup has both. known for the quality and freshness of her cooking, you can

count on seeing me standing in line for both of these. i might leave you some chowder if you’re lucky. Thai Mama with a slogan like “everything Thai. Ample portions and lots of love,” this mama, aka lisa Barba, is starting small and dreaming big. using local produce and meat vendors whenever possible, she’ll be dishing out curries, pad Thai, crab won tons, and chicken satay sticks with homemade peanut sauce, as well as vegetarian items such as portobello egg rolls or mango slices with coconut-infused sweet rice. But it’s her legendary homemade egg rolls that have market-goers salivating in anticipation.

Wild Wild West BBQ Bennie Blanton has been a market vendor since 2007, and he fires up a mean barbecue. Think thick, meaty ribs with a juicy homestyle sauce and big portions served with, natch, a slice of white bread. He also makes a delish sweet potato pie. need i mention the local firemen are his biggest fans? Durable Dish not a vendor but a program, the montavilla market piloted it last season with the aid of a grant from the city

of Portland. working with the market’s ready-to-eat vendors, the market’s master recycler, kristin wildenese, bought flatware, silverware and cups that are provided to the vendors on a weekly basis. vendors now have the ability to serve their food in an attractive manner, arranging it on a plate to be handed to customers, and it has been successful in keeping hundreds of paper plates and plastic utensils and cups out of the waste stream.

HillsDAle fARmeRs mARkeT

When: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. sunday Where: At the intersection of southwest capitol Highway and sunset Boulevard in the wilson High school parking lot behind the Hillsdale shopping center Web: hillsdalefarmersmarket.com Savory et Sweet chris Douglas has to wait until the little voices talk to her before she settles on the ingredients for her crepes every week, but they’ve apparently been spot-on since suggesting a menagerie Plate (described as “the best lunch in the world” by two different customers) made of the most au courant seasonal ingredients, including edible flowers and organic rose petal jelly. Ask about the Bacon & egg crepe that started out as a vendor-only item before customers began demanding it, too.

Gee Creek lyle stanley is one of my favorite market curmudgeons, always outfitted in a well-worn fedora, and for the second year he’ll be offering an extensive line of organic salads, including a beet salad, Asian coleslaw, green salad and carrot salad, all made from the amazing vegetables he grows on his farm in Ridgefield, wash. several customers have confessed to a growing addiction to them, so consider yourself warned. And please, whatever you do, don’t call him indy.

Salvador Molly’s This Hillsdale restaurant is known for its eclectic menu and wacky contests (can you say Great Balls of fire habanero fritter-eating competition?), but their market offerings are much more sedate. look for chef margot wilcoxon’s Yucatan

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chicken tamales made from slow-braised chicken in a tangy achiote sauce, as well as artichoke heart and cotija cheese tamales and a vegan version made from vegetables grown in her kitchen garden. wash it down with hibiscus punch made from real flowers, not a mix.

Tastebud There is no better example of a food vendor selling what farmers are bringing to market than Tastebud, mark Doxtader’s smoky tribute to seasonal cuisine. He’s known to haunt the stalls in the wee hours of the morning as farmers are setting up, looking for the perfect ingredients to top his pizzas and bagels, all baked in his wood-fired oven. look for the plume of smoke.

HOllYwOOD fARmeRs mARkeT When: 8 a.m.-1 p.m. saturday Where: northeast Hancock street between 44th and 45th avenues Web: hollywoodfarmersmarket.org

Masala Prepare to wait in line, because i guarantee sophie Rahman is going to have a hit on her hands with this new venture. she’s serving a traditional south indian vegetarian breakfast of a masala dosa, a thin, crisp, fermented lentil-rice pancake stuffed with a spicy potato mixture made fresh to order. it will be served with fresh coconut chutney and a sambar (vegetable stew) that will feature seasonal ingredients. word to the wise: get there early.

The Crepery size and flavor are meg vogt’s watchwords at The crepery (yes, crepery — that’s the way she spells it), and you’ll find both in

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Nourishment Once a food cart, then a bricks-and-mortar restaurant, now a farmers market staple, nourishment is owned and run by food entrepreneur and Oregon culinary institute instructor chef Ramona white. This incarnation of her passion for fresh ingredients serves delicious breakfast burritos with or without locally made lamb chorizo.

abundance, especially during berry season. for savory fans, look for seasonal greens and prosciutto to make an appearance.

Micro Mercantes This is the place i stop for a handmade tamale to keep my strength up while i walk through the market making a mental list of things to buy, accompanied by one of the most refreshing horchatas (a cinnamonflavored rice drink) in town. A project of the Hacienda cDc, it gives new immigrants an opportunity to have training and mentoring in business skills.

PORTlAnD fARmeRs mARkeT AT Psu

When: 8:30 a.m.-2 p.m. saturday Where: Portland state university in the south Park Blocks between southwest Hall and montgomery streets Web: www.portlandfarmersmarket.org Tastebud Farm (see Hillsdale farmers market description) NW Heritage Pork if you’re “hongry,” as in “i need a big plate of food before i eat that lady’s bichon,” then you should order the hash, a big ol’ plate of hash browns, eggs and bacon, sausage or pulled pork. myself, i’m here for the carnitas with shredded pork with the traditional double tortillas and lime wedge. more? How about a pulled pork sandwich or a pig in a blanket made from their own farm-raised pigs?

Salumeria di Carlo fred carlo can be said to be the godfather of Portland’s pork craving, since it was he who went to italy to learn the craft of the salumeri and, in 1976, moved to Oregon and began making his own sausage. The smell, not to mention the smoke, from the sausage, onions and peppers grilling on fred’s little corner of heaven draws the crowds, so come early.

Pine State Biscuits Three words: biscuits and gravy. from their stall at the Portland farmers market at Psu they’ve built an empire from their golden creamtop buttermilk biscuits with homemade sausage or mushroom gravy, thick-cut bacon, fried chicken, eggs, grits and preserves. was it synchronicity or serendipity? You decide. (meanwhile, i’ll be eating your biscuits.)

Via Chicago what started out as a vendor special became their much-requested breakfast pizza. in the morning they throw an egg and pancetta on and make it Ok for people who aren’t quite as honest about their cravings and need to disguise their pizza jones. Oh, and they make chicagostyle pizza four different ways, with the freshest local ingredients around. Just so’s you know. You know?

➤

Little Pots and Pans kris Pennella packed her bags in new York and moved to Portland in 2005 to start a business dedicated to, crazy as it sounds, making locally sourced spinach, roasted tomato, mushroom leek, indian curry and breakfast Greek tarts. imagine her family’s surprise when it went viral! Oh, and ask for her soups, like cream of local asparagus, and a homemade oatmeal dark-chocolatechip cookie for dessert.

➤

NIELSEN’S Jewelers Since 1892

sT. JOHns fARmeRs mARkeT

When: 9 a.m.-1 p.m. saturday Where: Downtown st. Johns at the st. Johns Plaza at the intersection of north lombard street and Philadelphia Avenue Web: www.sjfarmersmarket.com Florio Bakery walk-around food is all the rage at the markets, and this popular bakery is back all season with their popular hand pies made especially for this market. Buttery pie dough filled with roasted vegetables, provolone and olive tapenade is their most popular pie, though they also make a muffin-sized upside-down cake featuring seasonal fruit. muffin-sized upside-down cake? How brilliant is that? Kruger Farm Talk about reducing your carbon footprint. from just across the river on neighboring sauvie island, this market stalwart will bring their corn roaster in late summer during the corn harvest, serving freshly roasted, dripping-with-

butter corn on the cob from their farm. Assuming you have sufficient dexterity, this could be eaten while walking and shopping, though i’ll probably have to stand over a grate and just let it drip. Beftu Baja Asha Gebibo, an immigrant from ethiopia, is a st. Johns resident and participates in Janus Youth’s village Gardens program. she and her daughter Zemzem can’t wait to introduce their neighbors to the breakfast of eastern ethiopia, consisting of ful (beans) over fresh ethiopian bread called injera that’s served with ethiopian coffee or tea. They’ll also offer traditional sambusas, fried hand pies with a vegetable or beef filling. £

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summer guide

finding a farmers market wherever you go talk aBout Bounty — We Seem to Have deWy-freSH produCe on offer SomeWHere every day. WitH 40 marketS to CHooSe from, it’S like living in tHe garden of eden, WitHout tHe guilt.

2 Portland Farmers Market at PSU Sat. 8:30 a.m.-2 p.m. now through oct. 30 South park Blocks between montgomery and Harrison streets portlandfarmersmarket.org

3 Portland Farmers Market at Shemanski Park Wed. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. now through oct. 27 South park Blocks at Shemanski park between Salmon and main streets portlandfarmersmarket.org

nW portland/pearl

4 Northwest 23rd Portland Farmers Market thu. 3-7 p.m. June 3-Sept. 30 Southeast corner of northwest 23rd avenue and Savier Street portlandfarmersmarket.org

n portland

5 Interstate Farmers Market Wed. 3-7 p.m. now through Sept. 29 3550 n. fremont St., adjacent to overlook park interstatefarmersmarket.com 6 St. Johns Farmers Market Sat. 9 a.m.-1 p.m. June 5-Sept. 25 St. Johns plaza, intersection of north lombard Street and philadelphia avenue sjfarmersmarket.com

Forest Grove

main St.

Hillsboro / Sunday

Hillsboro / Saturday

ne portland

7 Hollywood Farmers Market Sat. 8 a.m.-1 p.m. now through nov. 20 northeast Hancock Street between 44th and 45th avenues hollywoodfarmersmarket.org 8 Irvington Farmers Market Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. now through nov. 1 northeast 16th avenue between Broadway and Weidler streets. irvingtonfarmersmarket.com 9 King Portland Farmers Market Sun. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. now through oct. 31 northeast Seventh avenue and Wygant Street in the parking lot adjacent to king elementary School portlandfarmersmarket.org 10 Lloyd Farmers Market tue. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. year-round thu. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. June 3-Sept. 30 oregon Square on northeast Holladay Street between Seventh and ninth avenues lloydfarmersmkt.net 11 Parkrose Farmers Market Sat. 9 a.m.-3 p.m. now through oct. 30 12003 n.e. Shaver St. on the west side of the parking lot at parkrose High School parkrosefarmersmarket.org

Se portland

12 Buckman Portland Farmers Market thu. 3-7 p.m. now through Sept. 30 parking lot at Hinson Baptist Church, on Southeast 20th avenue and Salmon Street portlandfarmersmarket.org 13 Lents International Farmers Market Sun. 9 a.m.-2 p.m. June 6-oct. 17 Crossroads plaza, Southeast 92nd avenue and foster road zengerfarm.org 14 Montavilla Farmers Market Sun. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. June 13-oct. 31 Southeast Stark Street, west of 82nd avenue montavillamarket.org 15 Moreland Farmers Market Wed. 3:30-7:30 p.m. now through Sept. 29 Southeast Bybee Boulevard and 14th avenue morelandfarmersmarket.org 16 People’s Farmers Market Wed. 2-7 p.m. year-round 3029 S.e. 21st ave., one block north of powell Boulevard www.peoples.coop

24 S.e. 2nd ave.

1 Portland Farmers Market at Pioneer Courthouse Square mon. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. June 21-oct. 25 Bordered by Broadway, Southwest Sixth avenue and morrison and yamhill streets portlandfarmersmarket.org

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17 OHSU Farmers Market tue. 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. now through oct. 5 in front of mackenzie Hall, off Southwest Sam Jackson park road ohsu.edu/farmersmarket

east metro area

18 Fairview Farmers and Artists Market thu. 4-8 p.m. now through oct. 14 fairview City Hall, 1300 n.e. village St. windancefarmsandart.com 19 Gresham Farmers Market Sat. 8:30 a.m.-2 p.m. now through oct. 30 northwest miller avenue between Second and third streets greshamfarmersmarket.com 20 Troutdale Farmers and Artists Market Sat. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. now through oct. 30 depot park rail museum, 551 Historic Columbia river Highway windancefarmsandart.com

West metro area

21 Beaverton Farmers Market Sat. 8 a.m.-1:30 p.m. now through oct. 30 Wed. 3-6 p.m., June 16-aug. 25 Hall Boulevard, between third and fifth streets beavertonfarmersmarket.com

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farmers market map cont.

22 Cedar Mill Farmers Market Sat. 8 a.m.-1 p.m. now through Sept. 25 northwest Cornell road, one block west of murray road at Sunset mall, across from Sunset High School cmfmarket.org 23 Forest Grove Farmers Market Wed. 4-8 p.m. now through oct. 13 main Street, between 21st and pacific avenues adelantemujeres.org/ farmersmarket.html 24 Hillsboro Farmers Market Sat. 8 a.m.-1:30 p.m. now through oct. 30 east main Street and northeast Second avenue www.hillsboromarkets.org 25 Hillsboro Sunday Farmers Market at Orenco Station Sun. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. now through oct. 31 northeast Cornell road and orenco Station parkway www.hillsboromarkets.org 26 Hillsdale Farmers Market Sun. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. now through nov. 21 1405 S.W. vermont St. at Wilson High School-rieke elementary School parking lot hillsdalefarmersmarket.com 27 Scappoose Farmers Market Sat. 9 a.m.-2 p.m. now through Sept. 25 Columbia Boulevard and first Street, across from Scappoose City Hall scappoosefarmermarket.com

Southwest metro area

28 Lake Oswego Farmers Market Sat. 8:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. now through oct. 9 millennium plaza park at first and evergreen streets www.ci.oswego.or.us/ farmersmarket 29 Sherwood Saturday Market Sat. 9 a.m.-1 p.m. now through Sept. 25 pedestrian walkway next to City Hall, 22560 S.W. pine St. sherwoodmarket.blogspot.com

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30 Tigard-area Farmers Market Sun. 9 a.m.-2 p.m. now through oct. 31 11831 S.W. pacific Highway between oregon 217 and Hall Boulevard tigardfarmersmarket.com

31 West Linn Farmers Market tue. 4-8 p.m. June 1-Sept. 28 1725 Willamette falls drive, between 10th and 14th streets

South metro area

32 Boring Farmers Market Sun. 10 a.m.-3 p.m. now through Sept. 13 Boring Station trailhead park, oregon 212 and Wally road boringfarmersmarket.com 33 Canby Saturday Farmers Market Sat. 9 a.m.-1 p.m. now through mid-october northwest first avenue at north Holly Street 34 Estacada Farmers Market Sat. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. now through oct. 30 Southeast third avenue and Broadway estacadafarmersmarket.com 35 Milwaukie Farmers Market Sun. 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m. now through oct. 31 Southeast Harrison Street between main Street and oregon 99e milwaukiefarmersmarket.com 36 Oregon City Farmers Market Sat. 9 a.m.-2 p.m. now through oct. 30 2051 kaen and Beavercreek roads orcityfarmersmarket.com 37 Sunnyside Grange Farmers Sun. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. now through oct. 31 13100 S.e. Sunnyside road at 132nd avenue windancefarmsandart.com 38 Wednesday Market at Clackamas Town Center Wed. 3-7 p.m. now through Sept. 29 Clackamas town Center, 12000 S.e. 82nd ave. windancefarmsandart.com

Washington

39 Camas Farmers Market Wed. 3-7:30 p.m. now through Sept. 29 downtown Camas, Wash., on fourth avenue, between dalles and everett streets camasfarmersmarket.org 40 Vancouver Farmers Market fri. 5-9 p.m., now through Sept. 3; Sat. 9 a.m.-3 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.-3 p.m., now through oct. 31 esther and eighth streets on the west side of esther Short park vancouverfarmersmarket.com ÂŁ

summer guide

SALAD RECIPES TO SERVE FOR SUMMER MEALS THAT MAKE YOU HEALTHY AND HAPPY

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kind of a law of nature: when the sun shines, we love to eat fresh things that are recently plucked from the ground, and nothing says fresh from the garden better than a salad. Whether a clutch of frilly lettuces to precede a more substantial meal, a robust but meatless mix of vegetables and grains, a tumble of fresh greens to serve as a crunchy bed for something sliced and off the grill, or even a quasi-desserty fruit salad, a meal that celebrates our seasonal produce is exactly the thing to eat at least once a day this season. Here are some of our favorites. WIne suggestIons by RaecHel sIms

FOOD STYLINg bY CAROLINE FORD / PHOTOgRAPHY bY bETH NAKAMURA

summer salads cont.

MOSTLY LEAFY SALADS bUILT FROM A MIx OF MOSTLY gREENS (AND wHITES AND PURPLES, TOO) — LIgHT, bRIgHT AND A gREAT PLACE TO START A MEAL

➤ Watercress, endive and

radish salad With Lemon Vinaigrette and goat Cheese Crostini MAKES 4 SERVINgS

If the bunches of watercress are small, buy two, or mix in a handful of baby arugula or spinach. If the radish tops are fresh, save them and add to soups or sautéed hearty greens. Regular or Meyer lemons may be used. Crostini: 4 thin slices focaccia or long, bias-cut baguette slices Olive oil ½ ounce grated parmesan cheese (about ¼ cup) 3 to 4 ounces soft goat cheese

Hearts of romaine salad With grilled Parmesan Croutons and grilled Lemon MAKES 4 SERVINgS

dressing: 1 heaping tablespoon freshly grated ParmigianoReggiano 1 teaspoon packed finely grated lemon zest 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 to 3 medium anchovy fillets 1 to 2 medium cloves garlic ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ⁄8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

salad:

Croutons:

1 small shallot, minced

¼ cup butter, room temperature

2 tablespoons Meyer lemon juice

1 medium clove garlic, finely minced or grated

1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard

⁄8 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Salt and pepper 1 large bunch watercress, stemmed, rinsed and dried 1 large endive, cored, quartered lengthwise and separated into individual pieces 8 radishes, sliced in half lengthwise, then crosswise very thin To make crostini: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Place bread slices on baking sheet, brush liberally with oil and sprinkle evenly with parmesan. Bake until lightly browned about edges, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven, carefully spread each crostini with heaping 1 tablespoon goat cheese, and bake until bread is crisp and goat cheese has just melted, about 2 minutes. To make salad: In a large mixing bowl, whisk together shallot, lemon juice, mustard, olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Once crostini are removed from oven, carefully toss watercress, endive and radishes in bowl with dressing to coat evenly. Divide equally among plates and serve immediately, garnished with crostini. — Vitaly Paley

½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 3 large, 1-inch-thick slices artisan bread 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil salad: 1 lemon (optional) 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt 1 large heart of romaine lettuce, cut into 1-inch ribbons ¼ cup roughly chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley

To make dressing: In a food processor add the cheese, lemon zest, mustard, anchovies, garlic, salt, pepper and lemon juice; process until well blended. With the motor running, slowly pour in the olive oil and process until creamy and blended. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Set aside. To make croutons: Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium (see note). Stir together the butter, garlic, salt, lemon zest and cheese; set aside. Brush one side of the bread with olive oil. Grill oiled side until nicely browned, about 2 minutes. Flip, top the grilled side with the butter-cheese mixture, spreading evenly, close the lid and grill until the bottom is browned also and the cheese is melted and bubbly, another 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board (do not turn off grill). When cool enough to handle, cut into cubes. To make salad and grilled lemon: Slice the lemon into 1⁄8 -inch slices and flick out any seeds with the tip of a knife. Brush with olive oil and season generously with salt. Wrap in a sheet of heavy-duty foil, sealing edges so the oil doesn’t leak out. Place the packet on grill over medium heat until lemon slices are soft and browned, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and chop into small pieces. Toss the romaine with the dressing, then toss in the croutons, the parsley and the chopped grilled lemons, if using. Serve immediately. Note: To check grill temperature, count the seconds you can hold your hand, palm side down, 2 to 3 inches above the rack, until it feels uncomfortable: 4 seconds for medium.

summer wine CRISTOM VINEYARDS 2008 VIOgNIER From a winery best known for its pinots, this white is a delightful surprise, produced from a single acre of Cristom’s estate. Subtle peach notes balance the perfectly acidic, perfectly lush wine, with a finish that’s refreshingly citrus and full. $27; cristomwines.com

— Martha Holmberg

G R E A T

Escapes

Butter Lettuce With Tarragon Vinaigrette MAKES 8 SERVINgS

Different brands of white wine vinegar have very different levels of acidity, so it’s important to taste the prepared vinaigrette and adjust with a bit of sugar if necessary. Don’t try substituting dried tarragon; another fresh herb can do in a pinch. ¼ cup white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon minced red onion or shallot 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon 9 tablespoons (½ cup plus 1 tablespoon) extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper Granulated sugar 2 heads butter lettuce, cored, rinsed, dried and torn into bite-size pieces

Elizabeth Street Inn - Newport

Marcus Whitman Hotel

Cozy up by the fireplace. Watch the sunset from your private balcony with ocean view. Enjoy an indoor heated pool & spa, a hot buffet breakfast & fresh baked cookies every evening. Enjoy Newport’s many attractions, restaurants and shopping. We are pet friendly!

Nestled in historic downtown, the Marcus Whitman Hotel & Conference Center is Walla Walla’s premier hotel and restaurant. Guests will enjoy luxury and tradition with beautifully appointed rooms, great regional seasonal cuisine and a wonderful selection of area wines. Come for the wine, stay for the experience.

877-265-9400 www.ElizabethStreetInn.com

866-826-9422 www.MarcusWhitmanHotel.com

The Dalles

A Sunny Destination

Located on the sunny side of the Cascades, The Dalles provides easy access to skiing on Mt. Hood, white water rafting on the Deschutes, windsurfing and boating on the Columbia, hiking and mountain biking in the National Scenic Area, cycling the quiet back roads, and fishing for salmon, steelhead, trout and sturgeon. Or, for something more relaxing, check out our fabulous wines, art galleries, historic sites, museums, concerts and festivals.

Alta Crystal Resort at Mt. Rainier

800-255-3385 • 541-296-2231 www.thedalleschamber.com

800.227.6475 www.altacrystalresort.com

The perfect little Mt. Rainier resort, tucked in the national forest. Miles of hike/bike trails from your door. Explore all day, then swim in our pool, soak in our hot tub, or come to a bbq, bonfire or Rainier program. Charming suites & romantic honeymoon log cabin.

Whisk together vinegar, onion, mustard, tarragon and oil until thoroughly emulsified; season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar. Dress greens immediately before serving. – FOODday

Fresh Exotic Seafood Flown in from the Japanese Tsukiji Fish Market

BaRa

Sushi house

LiTTle b

Happy Hour

Live Scallop

Sunday-Thursday 5pm-6:30pm

all nighT Tuesday

5pm-9pm

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PHOTOgRAPH bY jAMIE FRANCIS

2625 SE 21st off Clinton

503.233.4100

www.barasushihouse.com

Arugula and radish salad With Brown Butter Vinaigrette MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINgS

Oblong breakfast radishes are the best choice for this salad, though any variety works fine. Cacio cheese is a fairly mild Italian sheep’s milk cheese. An aged gruyère cheese would also be excellent. For the thinnest slices, chill the cheese in the freezer for a few minutes, and then use a vegetable peeler to peel slices off the chunk. Save the radish tops for another use (sauté them with olive oil and garlic, or stir them into soups for a peppery bite).

from

2 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon lemon juice Salt and black pepper 1 bunch radishes, rinsed, roots and tops removed (save tops for another use), and radishes sliced into 1⁄8 -inch matchsticks or oval slices

Grill Baby Grill!

1 bunch arugula, any roots removed, rinsed and dried well, and leaves torn into bite-size pieces

1½ ounces cacio or aged gruyère cheese, shaved into thin strips Cook butter in a very small saucepan over medium-high heat until dark chestnut brown and fragrant, 2 to 4 minutes (pay close attention so it doesn’t burn). Immediately transfer to a bowl to stop the cooking. Whisk in oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. In large bowl, toss together radishes and arugula. Dress lightly with vinaigrette (you may have extra) and divide among plates. Top with cheese and serve immediately with additional coarse salt and pepper. — Tommy Habetz

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summer salads cont.

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➤

Fattoush salad

It’s important to give the pita bread time to absorb some dressing and the juices from the cucumbers, but once you’ve added the greens, don’t let the salad sit around too long. MAKES 4 SERVINgS

dressing: ½ teaspoon minced garlic

Two-Bean salad With smoked salmon MAKES 6 SERVINgS

The Smokery stall at the Saturday Portland Farmers Market sells an insanely delicious smoked salmon that’s good all by itself on crackers, or in a salad with whatever produce looks best that week — including fennel, cucumber, or in this case, green beans and cherry tomatoes. ½ pound green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths

1 teaspoon salt Zest and juice of ½ lemon Freshly ground black pepper ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 15-ounce can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained

Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add the green beans and cook until they turn bright green and are crisp-tender, about 1 minute. Drain the beans and immediately put them in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Combine the green beans, cannellini beans, olives, tomatoes, chives and salmon in a large serving bowl. In a small bowl, whisk the garlic and red wine vinegar together. Slowly whisk in the oil. Add the vinaigrette to the salad, season with salt and pepper and toss gently with your hands. Serve at room temperature. — Ivy Manning

¼ cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered

salad: Three 7- to 8-inch pita rounds or other flatbread 3 teaspoons butter, softened 1 small red bell pepper, cored and cut into ½-inch dice 1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into ½ inch dice ½ head of romaine lettuce, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives 6 ounces smoked salmon, broken into bite-size pieces 1 teaspoon garlic, mashed to a paste with the side of a chef ’s knife 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper ‘

4 cups lightly packed fresh baby spinach (2½ ounces) ½ cup lightly packed roughly chopped fresh mint 1¼ cups lightly packed roughly chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley

radicchio, Frisée and White Bean salad With Pancetta and Parmesan

Salt

You can use garbanzo beans instead of the white beans. Use a vegetable peeler to shave the cheese thinly.

To make dressing: Mash garlic and salt to a paste. In a medium bowl whisk together the garlic paste, lemon zest, lemon juice, black pepper and olive oil; set aside.

MAKES 6 SERVINgS

To make salad: Heat oven to 300 degrees. Spread each pita bread evenly on one side with 1 teaspoon softened butter. Place on a baking sheet, buttered side up, and bake until crispy, about 16 to 18 minutes, flipping over after about 10 minutes. Set aside until cool enough to handle. Break into about 1-inch pieces and place in a large bowl. Add the bell pepper and cucumber and toss with ½ cup of the dressing. Let mixture rest for 8 minutes. Add the lettuce, spinach, mint and parsley to the bowl with the remaining ¼ cup dressing and toss. Salt to taste and serve.

¼ teaspoon salt

— Jesse Manis

¼ pound thinly sliced pancetta, sliced crosswise into ¼-inch strips 1 clove garlic, minced 1½ tablespoons lemon juice ⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Black pepper 1 medium head radicchio, quartered, cored and sliced thinly crosswise 1 small head frisée, separated into small pieces (about 4 lightly packed cups) 1 15- to 16-ounce can cannellini or great Northern beans, drained and rinsed 1 ounce parmesan cheese, thinly shaved

Cook pancetta in medium skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until well-browned and crispy, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer to paper-towel-lined plate with slotted spoon and blot dry with additional paper towels. Whisk together garlic, salt, lemon juice and olive oil until emulsified; adjust seasoning with black pepper.

Combine radicchio and frisée in large mixing bowl and toss gently to combine. Drizzle with dressing and toss greens to coat evenly. Sprinkle beans, parmesan and pancetta over summer wine greens and toss gently to DOMINIO IV 2008 LOVE distribute evenly. Serve LIES bLEEDINg PINOT NOIR immediately with Has all the romance and drama additional black pepper.

implied by the name. Rich notes of cocoa and caramel greet the nose upon first whiff, and the palate delivers a velvety mouth feel of warm summer strawberry. $23; dominiowines.com

— Matthew Card

summer salad of rice Noodles and greens With Lime-ginger dressing MAKES 2 SERVINgS

This salad is super light and refreshing. Be sure to use very fresh and perky herbs. If you don’t like cilantro, you could substitute some parsley.

Lime-ginger dressing: 2 teaspoons finely grated or very finely minced fresh ginger 2 to 4 teaspoons minced fresh hot green chile, such as jalapeño or serrano 2 small cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup fresh lime juice 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons fish sauce 1 tablespoon granulated sugar Noodles: 2 ounces vermicelli-style rice noodles or other thin rice sticks 2 to 3 leaves crisp romaine lettuce, cut crosswise into ribbons 10 to 12 large fresh mint leaves, torn in half ¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves ½ cup shredded carrot ½ cup peeled and diced cucumber 2 tablespoons chopped roasted peanuts

To make dressing: Stir together the ginger, chile, garlic, lime juice, rice vinegar, fish sauce and sugar until the sugar has dissolved. Let sit about 30 minutes to let the flavor develop, and then taste and adjust with more chile, lime, vinegar or sugar. The dressing should be very bright and strongly flavored. To cook noodles: Bring a large pot of water to a boil, salt it generously and put the noodles in the water; stir to unclump them. For vermicellistyle noodles, start checking for doneness after about 2 minutes, even if the water hasn’t returned to a boil. For thicker noodles, allow 3 to 6 minutes. Check early and often, as different brands cook at different rates. As soon as the noodles are tender, drain them and immediately rinse with cold water to wash off any starch. Fluff them with a fork or your fingers and leave them to drain well in a colander, fluffing every few minutes to be sure they stay loose. (If you skip this step, you’ll end up with one big tangle.) To assemble: When ready to serve, in a large bowl, toss the noodles with half the dressing until evenly coated. Divide between two bowls, then top with the lettuce, mint, cilantro, carrot and cucumber (and any other ingredients you’re using, such as grilled chicken). Drizzle on the rest of the dressing and sprinkle with the peanuts. — Martha Holmberg

Warm Lentil and Chard salad With garlicky Croutons and Feta MAKES 4 SERVINgS

Lentils du Puy, or French green lentils, are available at most local stores. Look for them in the bulk bins at New Seasons or Whole Foods, where they are far cheaper than packaged lentils. It’s worth seeking out Bulgarian feta, which has a stronger flavor than French or Greek feta; Barbur World Foods is a great source for feta.

Bring 4 quarts water to boil over high heat. Season liberally with salt and add chard. Boil until greens are just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chard to a bowl filled with ice water to cool, then drain. Squeeze greens dry and set aside.

Salt

Add lentils to the boiling water, reduce heat to maintain a steady simmer, and cook until just tender, 30 to 35 minutes. Drain.

1 bunch Swiss or rainbow chard (stems removed), coarsely chopped 1 cup lentils du Puy, sorted and rinsed 5 cups 1-inch bread cubes (lightly packed) 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) 3 garlic cloves, minced Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons lemon juice Small pinch granulated sugar ½ cup coarsely chopped roasted peppers ⁄3 cup coarsely chopped Italian (flat-leaf) parsley, lightly packed

Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. In large mixing bowl, toss bread cubes with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Spread in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Whisk together remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil, lemon juice, sugar, and salt and pepper to taste in the mixing bowl. Add lentils, peppers and parsley and stir to blend. Gently mix in chard and croutons, followed by feta. Serve immediately. — Matthew Card

⁄3 pound feta, crumbled into large pieces

‘main-Course’ Tabbouleh MAKES 4 SERVINgS

While the salad can be eaten immediately, it’s best if refrigerated for 3 to 4 hours before serving. The salad may be served with pita bread or, the more traditional choice, leaves of romaine lettuce. dressing: 2 tablespoons lemon juice 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon Aleppo chile powder (see note) ½ teaspoon ground cumin Salt and ground black pepper to taste salad: 1 cup fine bulgur ½ teaspoon salt 1¼ cups boiling water 4 tablespoons lemon juice 4 plum tomatoes, cored, seeded and diced 1 15-ounce can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained ½ cup packed chopped Italian (flat-leaf) parsley leaves

½ pound feta cheese, crumbled ¾ cup walnuts, toasted and chopped coarse (see note)

To make salad: Combine bulgur, salt, boiling water and lemon juice in large mixing bowl. Cover with aluminum foil and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Fluff with fork. Add tomatoes, garbanzo beans, parsley and mint to bulgur and gently mix together with rubber spatula. Drizzle dressing over mixture and stir until salad is evenly dressed. Serve salad garnished with feta and walnuts.

Pinch granulated sugar

¼ cup packed chopped fresh mint leaves

To make dressing: Mix lemon juice, olive oil, Aleppo chile, cumin and sugar together in small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper; set aside.

Note: Aleppo (also known as halaby) is a Turkish- and Syrian-grown chile that is dried and coarse-ground throughout the Middle East. It is available at some Middle Eastern specialty stores and Penzey’s spices, which is on Southeast 82nd Avenue near Clackamas Town Center, as well as some gourmet stores (such as In Good Taste in Portland) or online. Ground ancho chile powder can be substituted (reduced to ½ teaspoon), or harissa, a North African-style spice paste (increased to 1 tablespoon). Harissa can be found at Pastaworks. Note: To toast nuts, spread on a baking

sheet and bake in 375-degree oven summer wine for 5 to 8 minutes or until brown. KUROKAME SAKE — Matthew Card Sake can offer a welcome relief from red wines that may feel too heavy for a warm summer evening. Try a glass of this shochu-style sake, distilled from sweet potatoes and best served chilled. $9; takarasake.com

summer salads cont.

wITH FRUIT COLORFUL, REFRESHINg AND jUST A TINY bIT SwEET, SO THEY’RE PERFECT FOR ANY PLACE IN THE MEAL, EVEN DESSERT

➤ Watermelon, Cucumber and Tomato salad

Apple-Celeriac salad

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINgS

MAKES 4 SERVINgS

While this may sound like an odd combination of fruit and vegetables, it’s both refreshing and colorful. Cut the watermelon in half crosswise and use one half that’s been scooped out as a serving bowl. A few chunks of feta or ricotta salata would be gorgeous on this salad, too.

This salad is fantastic with grilled salmon, trout or halibut or seared scallops. Take the time to make your celeriac matchsticks fine and even.

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

In a small saucepan, place sugar, vinegar, onion, salt and red pepper flakes; stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, add oil. Set aside to cool.

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar ¼ cup slivered red onion Pinch salt Pinch crushed red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cups diced (¾-inch) seeded watermelon 2 ripe firm, meaty tomatoes, cut into 16 thin wedges 1 seedless cucumber, peeled and halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces ¼ cup slivered fresh basil leaves Freshly ground black pepper

In a large bowl place watermelon, tomatoes, cucumbers and basil. Pour dressing over mixture and mix gently. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve in scooped-out watermelon half, if desired. — FOODday

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1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard 1 tablespoon lemon juice, plus 1 lemon cut into wedges for serving (divided) 1½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme Pinch granulated sugar Salt and ground black pepper 2 cups very thin matchsticks cut from peeled celeriac (celery root; ¾ to 1 pound) 2 cups very thin matchsticks cut from peeled and cored Granny Smith apple 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley ¼ cup toasted and chopped hazelnuts In a mixing bowl blend together mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice, thyme and sugar; adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Fold in celeriac, apple and parsley, and mix until evenly coated with dressing; let set for about 15 minutes. Sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts and serve. — Matthew Card

Orange salad With smoked Paprika Vinaigrette, iced Onions and Cilantro 53

MAKES 6 SERVINgS

If you’re not a cilantro fan, basil or parsley would work fine. You can prepare the salad as much as four hours ahead and refrigerate it. But it’s best when not served ice cold, so take it out of the refrigerator at least 20 minutes before serving. This recipe is easily halved or increased.

To make salad: Soak the onion slices in a small bowl of water with some ice cubes for at least 30 minutes and as long as 2 hours. Meanwhile, prepare vinaigrette as directed below, then proceed with preparation of oranges: Cut off both ends of an orange, then stand it on a flat end and slice away the peel, including all of the white pith. Turn orange on its side and cut crosswise into ¼-inch slices; repeat with remaining oranges.

salad:

Add orange slices to the bowl of vinaigrette and gently toss to coat. Arrange the orange slices on a serving plate, overlapping them slightly. Pour any extra vinaigrette and juices from the bowl into a small pitcher for serving on the side.

⁄8 of a small red onion, sliced as thinly as possible 1

3 juicy oranges 2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh cilantro Vinaigrette: 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar ½ teaspoon granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ¾ teaspoon sweet or agridulce smoked paprika (see note) ¼ cup canola oil

Drain the onions and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels. Scatter onion over the oranges, then sprinkle with the cilantro. To make vinaigrette: In a bowl that’s big enough to hold the orange slices, whisk together the orange juice, sherry vinegar, sugar, salt and paprika until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Whisk in the oil a few drops at a time until dressing is creamy and emulsified. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Note: Spanish smoked paprika, also called pimenton de la Vera, comes in three varieties: sweet (dulce), medium-hot (agridulce) and hot (picante). Find it at stores that carry a wide selection of gourmet foods, such as Zupan’s or New Seasons, or from Penzeys (11322 S.E. 82nd Ave., or at www.penzeys.com). — Martha Holmberg

PHOTOgRAPH bY MARTHA HOLMbERg

Apple and Fennel salad With Candied Walnuts MAKES 6 SERVINgS

This is a riff on a classic Waldorf salad. We jettisoned the gunky mayo, traded chopped fennel for the celery (though you could easily use celery if you prefer) and “upgraded” the walnuts by candying them for a little extra pizazz. The recipe makes about twice what you’ll need for the salad, but you’ll be happy you have extra because these are extremely munchable.

To make candied walnuts: Preheat oven to 325 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment or foil. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg white and the water until foamy; add the sugar, brown sugar, salt, cinnamon, coriander and pepper flakes. Add the walnuts and toss to coat thoroughly, then spread them on the baking sheet (be sure they’re not clumped together). Bake about 15 minutes, then stir and bake another 10 to 15 minutes until the nuts are fragrant and dry-looking. Let cool, then break up any clumps with your fingers. When completely cool, roughly chop about 1 cup for the salad; store the rest in an airtight container for another use.

Candied walnuts: 1 egg white 1 tablespoon water ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon brown sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground coriander ¼ teaspoon crushed chipotle or red pepper flakes 2 cups walnut halves Vinaigrette: 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, more if needed

To make vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice, lime juice, sugar and salt until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Whisk in the walnut oil a few drops at a time to create a creamy, emulsified dressing. Taste and adjust seasoning. To make salad: Cut stalks and fronds off fennel bulb and trim the base. Peel off outer layer if tough. Cut bulb into small dice. Place in a medium bowl and toss with about 2 tablespoons of vinaigrette until fennel is wellcoated.

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Halve and core the apples (do not peel them) and then cut into 1⁄8 -inch slices. Place in a separate bowl, drizzle with about 2 tablespoons vinaigrette and toss until fruit is well-coated.

2 tablespoons walnut oil

Chill the apples and fennel separately for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

salad:

Pile the apple slices on a serving platter or in a large shallow bowl, and top with the fennel (in a mound so that the apples show underneath). Drizzle on the remaining vinaigrette. Taste the apples and fennel: If either needs some brightening, squeeze a little more lime juice on top.

½ teaspoon granulated sugar

1 medium fennel bulb 1 pound crisp apples (about 2 medium) ¼ cup raisins

Sprinkle the raisins over the fennel and then top the whole salad with the chopped candied walnuts. — Martha Holmberg

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Orange, radish and Avocado salad With Pumpkin seeds

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINgS

strawberries in Peppery Balsamic Vinaigrette With Fresh mint MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINgS

1 small jalapeño chile, seeded and minced

Don’t dress this salad more than an hour ahead because the dressing will pull the juices from the berries, which can dilute the whole thing. You can make the vinaigrette and cut the berries ahead and toss 15 minutes before serving.

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Vinaigrette:

Coarse salt

3 tablespoons fresh orange juice

Adjust the amount of sugar in the dressing according to the sweetness of the oranges. Much of a chile’s heat is contained in its seeds and ribs, so for a spicier rendition, include a few of the seeds in the dressing. Juice of 1 lime (about 1½ tablespoons) 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Brown sugar Freshly ground black pepper 3 navel oranges, peel and pith sliced away and cut between membranes into segments 6 large radishes, sliced crosswise into 1⁄8 -inch-thick slices 3 tablespoons raw pepitas (pumpkin seeds) 1 large avocado, pitted, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes Whisk together lime juice, oil, jalapeño, cilantro and a large pinch salt. Adjust seasoning with brown sugar and black pepper. Toss the oranges and radishes together and pile on large plate; scatter the pepitas and avocado over top. Season with salt and drizzle with dressing; serve immediately. — Matthew Card

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar ¾ teaspoon granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

To make vinaigrette: In a bowl that’s big enough to hold the strawberries, whisk together the orange juice, balsamic vinegar, sugar, salt, pepper and cardamom until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Add the mint leaves, and then whisk in the oil a few drops at a time until dressing is creamy and emulsified. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. To make salad: Add the strawberries to the bowl of vinaigrette and toss gently. Let berries macerate at least 15 minutes before serving, but not more than 1 hour. — Martha Holmberg

1 ⁄8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

⁄8 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 tablespoon finely sliced fresh mint leaves 2 tablespoons canola oil 1 pound fresh strawberries, hulled PHOTOgRAPH bY MARTHA HOLMbERg

summer salads cont.

wITH SEAFOOD OR MEAT wHICH EASILY MAKES SALAD bECOME DINNER

➤ Cannellini Beans With Tuna and Black-Olive Vinaigrette MAKES 4 SERVINgS

For this salad, chef Jenn Louis likes to poach fresh albacore tuna in olive oil with fresh herbs, which gives it a delicate flavor and silky texture. For a quicker dish, use good-quality canned tuna in oil.

Black olive vinaigrette: 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons sliced black olives 1 teaspoon chopped shallot 1 small clove garlic, chopped salad: 1 tablespoon olive oil ¼ cup thinly sliced shallots 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved

To make black olive vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, olives, shallot and garlic. To make salad: Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add shallots and sauté for 1 minute. Add tomatoes and butter, and cook until sauce becomes creamy and tomatoes soften, 1 to 2 minutes. Add beans, parsley and oregano to skillet. Cook until warmed though, about 1 minute, no longer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide bean salad between 4 plates and top with a handful of arugula leaves. Place tuna pieces on top of arugula and drizzle with vinaigrette. Sprinkle with salt and garnish with lemon wedges before serving. — Jenn Louis

2 tablespoons unsalted butter One 15-ounce can cannellini beans, drained 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano Sea salt or kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 small handfuls arugula leaves Two 6-ounce cans solid tuna packed in olive oil, drained and broken into large pieces 1 lemon, cut into wedges

summer wine KIM CRAwFORD NEw zEALAND MARLbOROUgH 2009 SAUVIgNON bLANC Much like its predecessors, a loving mouthful of everything right with the country’s most popular varietal. Sporting a gorgeous bouquet of Asian pear and pineapple, it offers a surprisingly balanced mouthful of minerality and slight herbaceousness. $18; available widely.

Asian steak and Noodle salad

MAKES 4 SERVINgS

Meat-and-potatoes types will appreciate this hearty, spicy salad because rare grilled steak plays a starring role. It’s key to cook the steak until it is just rare; the citrus in the dressing continues to “cook” the meat after it has left the grill.

dressing: 1 to 2 fresh red Thai chiles, finely minced (or serrano or habanero chiles; if fresh chiles are not available use ½ to 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes). 1 teaspoon minced garlic 2 tablespoons fish sauce 5 tablespoons lime juice 1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar salad: 8 ounces pad Thai rice noodles 4 green onions Olive oil 1 pint cherry tomatoes 1 pound sirloin steak, trimmed of fat Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cucumber, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced ¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro 2 tablespoons finely chopped mint leaves ½ cup finely chopped dry-roasted peanuts

To make dressing: Heat the grill to medium-high (see note). In a medium bowl combine all the ingredients; stir to dissolve sugar and set aside. To make salad: Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water and set aside. Trim the green onions and brush with olive oil. Skewer the tomatoes on bamboo or metal skewers, brush with olive oil and set aside. Sprinkle both sides of the steak with salt and pepper and brush with a little olive oil. Grill the onions and tomatoes over the hottest part of the grill, turning once or twice, until the onions are charred and the tomatoes are charred and soft. Transfer to a medium bowl. When cool enough to handle, cut the onions into 1-inch pieces. Grill the steak until medium-rare, about 2½ to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and allow to rest for 10 minutes. Thinly slice the steak against the grain. Toss the steak, green onions, tomatoes, cucumber, cilantro and mint with the dressing. Divide the noodles among 4 bowls and top with beef mixture. Sprinkle with peanuts and serve warm. Note: To check grill temperature, count the seconds you can hold your hand, palm side down, 2 to 3 inches above the rack, until it feels uncomfortable: 3 seconds for medium-hot. — Ivy Manning

➤

grilled Bread salad With shrimp, Lemon and Thyme

You could make this salad with some shredded rotisserie chicken instead of the shrimp, if you like. MAKES 4 SERVINgS

marinade: 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme ⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ teaspoon salt ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil salad: 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ½ teaspoon granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced 1 tablespoon drained capers ½ cup kalamata olives, pitted and halved

3 to 4 (1-inch) slices ciabatta or other loose-textured artisan bread 1 bunch green onions (about 6), ends trimmed 1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined ½ cup loosely packed, roughly chopped fresh cilantro ¼ cup loosely packed, roughly chopped fresh mint ½ cup crumbled feta cheese 4 lemon wedges To make marinade: In a small bowl, stir together the lemon zest, garlic, thyme, cayenne, salt and olive oil. To make salad: In a large bowl stir together the olive oil, lemon juice, sugar and salt. Add the tomatoes and any juices, the cucumber, capers and olives. Toss and leave to macerate, at least 15 minutes and up to 30 minutes. Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium (see note). Brush both sides of the bread with the marinade. Put the green onions on a small plate and brush with more of the marinade. Add

the shrimp to the remaining marinade and toss to coat. Grill the bread until nicely browned, about 3 minutes per side. When cool enough to handle, tear into rough 1-inch pieces and toss about half with the tomatoes; reserve the other half (this way, some bread pieces will get soft and some will stay crunchy). Grill the green onions until quite browned and slightly collapsed, 10 to 15 minutes. Cut into 1-inch pieces and toss with any marinade remaining on the plate. Grill the shrimp until just

opaque in the center, 7 to 10 minutes. Toss the green onions with the tomatobread mixture, along with the reserved bread, cilantro and mint. Divide among 4 wide bowls or plates, arrange a quarter of the shrimp on each salad and crumble some feta on top. Serve with lemon wedges. Note: To check grill temperature, count the seconds you can hold your hand, palm side down, 2 to 3 inches above the rack, until it feels uncomfortable: 4 seconds for medium. — Martha Holmberg

Cured Bay scallop salad With radish, green Apple and Cucumber MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINgS

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As with ceviche, the lemon juice vinaigrette effectively “cooks” the scallops in this dish (by denaturing the seafood’s proteins). For the best results, use very good quality extra-virgin olive oil. If you have a mandoline, this is a good instance in which to use it. ¾ pound bay scallops, rinsed and patted dry ¼ cup lemon juice 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) Salt Crushed red pepper flakes 4 to 6 radishes, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise very thin ½ small red onion, halved through root end and sliced crosswise very thin ½ large Granny Smith apple, cut into thin matchsticks 2 tablespoons thin-sliced fresh mint ½ English cucumber, sliced crosswise very thin In large mixing bowl, combine scallops, lemon juice, 3 tablespoons of olive oil, a generous sprinkle of salt and a large pinch crushed red pepper flakes. Stir to combine and allow to marinate, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 30 minutes. Add radishes, onion, apple and mint to mixing bowl with scallops. Toss to blend and adjust seasoning with salt and red pepper flakes. Shingle cucumber slices on serving plate(s) and top with salad mixture. Drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and serve immediately.

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summer salads cont.

wITH LOTS OF VEgETAbLES PERFECT AS A SIDE TO SOMETHINg

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➤ Cherry Tomato salad With Feta,

mint and Tangy Peppers

If you can get fresh peppermint, instead of the spearmint that’s more common in the grocery store, use it in this salad — its more assertive flavor plays nicely with the tomatoes and pickled peppers. MAKES 4 SERVINgS

About 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved 6 ounces feta cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes 1 tablespoon minced pepperoncini (pickled Italian peppers; core and seed them first) 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice Generous sprinkle of kosher or sea salt ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint Toss the tomatoes, feta, pepperoncini, lemon juice and salt together and let stand for 10 to 30 minutes. Add the oil, parsley and mint; fold gently to blend. Taste and add more salt or lemon if you like. Serve as a first course or a side salad to something from the grill. — Martha Holmberg

moroccan sweet-Potato salad MAKES 6 SERVINgS

A delicious marinade known as charmoula often flavors fish and vegetable dishes in the Moroccan kitchen. With a bit of olive oil mixed in, the charmoula becomes a tasty vinaigrette. Try it on grilled fish or chicken as well. In addition to being full of flavor, diced sweet potatoes cook in a hurry. Keep a close eye on them: A few extra minutes in the oven may leave their texture a bit on the soft side. 4 medium sweet potatoes (about 2½ pounds total), peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 ⁄3 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil (divided)

¾ teaspoon salt (divided) 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon paprika ⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

3 tablespoons lemon juice ⁄3 cup chopped fresh parsley

Fresh mozzarella, Fennel and Celery salad MAKES 2 APPETIzER SERVINgS

⁄3 cup chopped fresh cilantro

⁄3 cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted (see note) 1

This recipe was inspired by a delicious salad from Nostrana, which featured their own fresh mozzarella. It’s all about delicacy, so be sure to slice the ingredients very thinly.

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss the sweet potatoes with 2 tablespoons olive oil and ¼ teaspoon salt. Put the sweet potatoes on a baking sheet or in a roasting pan and cook, stirring once, until tender, about 15 minutes. Keep warm in a large bowl. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, make the charmoula by combining the garlic, cumin, paprika, cayenne, lemon juice and the remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Whisk in the remaining 1⁄3 cup olive oil and then add the parsley and cilantro. Gently combine the roasted sweet potatoes with the charmoula and the toasted almonds. Serve at room temperature. If made ahead of time, refrigerate, then allow to come to room temperature before serving. Note: To toast nuts, spread on baking sheet and bake in 350-degree oven for 5 to 8 minutes or until they start to brown. — Laura B. Russell

8 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into ¼-inch slices Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fennel salad With green Olive and Orange Vinaigrette

Half of a small fennel bulb

MAKES 4 SERVINgS

1 medium inner stalk celery, sliced as thinly as possible 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon ground toasted fennel seed (see note) 2 tablespoons finely sliced fresh mint leaves Arrange the mozzarella slices on 2 plates and season lightly with salt and pepper. Core fennel, trim the top and peel the fibrous outer layer with a vegetable peeler; slice crosswise as thinly as possible. Add to a large bowl with the celery, lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil, ground fennel seed and salt and pepper to taste. Distribute the salad over the cheese, sprinkle on the mint and serve within 15 minutes. Note: To toast seeds, spread on baking sheet and bake in a 350-degree oven for 3 to 5 minutes or until brown. Grind using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. — Martha Holmberg

To soften the fibrous fennel, it’s important to prepare the salad at least 20 minutes before you plan to serve it; otherwise, the slices can be too tough. Use a very sharp chef ’s knife or a mandoline to slice the fennel as thinly as possible. To save some time and energy, purchase pitted olives (if marinated, look for simpler flavors, such as herbs, chile or herbes de Provence).

⁄3 cup chopped green olives

1½ teaspoons grated orange zest, plus 3 tablespoons fresh-squeezed orange juice 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar Kosher salt Cayenne pepper Granulated sugar 1 large or 2 medium-small fennel bulbs, trimmed, cored and sliced crosswise very thin In large mixing bowl whisk together olives, orange zest, orange juice, thyme, parsley, oil and vinegar, and salt, cayenne and sugar to taste. Season to taste as needed. Stir in fennel and allow to sit at least 20 minutes before serving. — Matthew Card

➤

New Potato and sugar snap Pea salad

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINgS

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINgS

This salad ran in FOODday in the summer of 2001, with a story by Amelia Saltsman. It goes together quickly with seasonal vegetables and is sprightly and delicious. dressing: 1 shallot, cut up ¼ cup seasoned rice vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup walnut or vegetable oil salad: 2 pounds new or red rose potatoes, cut into bitesize pieces Salt 1 tablespoon olive oil ½ pound sugar snap peas, strings removed, peas cut into ½-inch pieces ⁄3 cup frozen green peas, thawed

⁄3 cup fresh chives, snipped into ½-inch lengths

¼ cup torn fresh mint leaves

Thai eggplant salad

To make dressing: In a blender, purée shallot, vinegar, mustard, 1 teaspoon salt and black pepper to taste. Add oil and blend. Set aside. To make salad: Boil potatoes in generously salted water until just tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain. Place in bowl and immediately toss with dressing. Set aside to cool. Meanwhile, while potatoes are cooking, heat olive oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Add snap peas and sauté until they turn bright green, about 2 minutes. Season with salt, add 1 tablespoon water and cook, covered, until snap peas are crisptender, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Add snap peas, thawed green peas, chives and mint to potatoes and mix well. Taste and adjust seasonings. — FOODday

While Asian peanut oil adds valuable flavor, vegetable oil will do in a pinch. (Note that Asian peanut oil is light and mild, unlike toasted sesame oil.) 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1½ tablespoons fish sauce 1 teaspoon sriracha or sambal hot sauce, or 1 small bird’s-eye or serrano chile, minced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 3 tablespoons Asian peanut oil (divided) 1 large eggplant, sliced lengthwise on a slight bias into ½-inch-wide pieces Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1½ tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves 1½ tablespoons chopped dry-roasted peanuts

Whisk together lime juice, vinegar, fish sauce, hot sauce, garlic, sugar and 2 teaspoons oil to create vinaigrette; set aside for at least 30 minutes. Brush both sides of eggplant slices with remaining oil and season with salt and pepper; place in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Adjust oven rack to within 5 inches of element. Heat broiler to high. Broil eggplant until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Carefully flip slices and broil second side until browned, about 5 minutes. Shingle slices on serving plate and drizzle with vinaigrette. Just before serving, garnish with cilantro and peanuts. Serve warm or at room temperature. — Matthew Card

Beet and Pickled Onion salad With Horseradish and Chives

moroccan-spiced Cabbage, Carrot and radish salad

MAKES 4 SERVINgS

This salad stores well and is actually best after a few hours in the refrigerator. Be sure to use prepared horseradish, not cream-style horseradish. Use more if you prefer a sharper flavor. 1¼ pounds fresh beets, scrubbed and root end trimmed Kosher salt Juice from 1 large lemon, preferably Meyer variety (about ¼ cup) 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar (divided) ½ small red onion, thinly sliced crosswise 1 to 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish (not cream-style) 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Pinch granulated sugar Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives

Place beets in saucepan, cover with water, add 1 teaspoon salt and bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to maintain steady simmer and cook until beets are easily pierced with paring knife, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Drain and, once cool enough to handle, peel skin off and cut crosswise into 1⁄3 -inch-thick slices. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together lemon juice, 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar and a pinch salt; add onion and allow to sit, stirring occasionally, for at least 30 minutes. In another small bowl whisk together horseradish, oil, remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar and a pinch sugar; adjust seasoning with salt and black pepper. When ready to serve, toss beets with horseradish dressing and sprinkle pickled onions and chives over top. — Matthew Card

marinated Zucchini and radish salad MAKES 4 SERVINgS

Most varieties of sherry vinegar (i.e. inexpensive and briefly aged), will benefit from adding a pinch of sugar to the vinaigrette. If you can’t find pattypan squash, feel free to use regular yellow squash. If you have a mandoline, use it here; otherwise take your time and choose your sharpest chef ’s knife for the cleanest and thinnest slices. 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper Pinch granulated sugar (if necessary) 2 small pattypan squash, stemmed and sliced 1⁄8 -inch thick crosswise 2 small zucchini, stemmed and sliced 1⁄8 -inch thick on the bias 5 radishes, trimmed, halved lengthwise and sliced 1⁄8-inch thick 3 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs (such as mint, oregano, basil, marjoram, parsley) 4 cups arugula, stemmed and torn into bite-size pieces

In large mixing bowl, whisk together lemon juice, vinegar, olive oil and salt and pepper to taste (the vinaigrette should be quite sharp and a little bit salty; add sugar if necessary to temper).

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINgS

For the best-textured salad, slice the cabbage as thinly as possible. Red cabbage retains its crisp texture far better than green cabbage. Minced fresh mint or parsley may be added in addition to the cilantro. Vinaigrette: Finely grated zest of 1 orange (about 1 tablespoon) ¾ teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon ground coriander ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 tablespoons honey

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1 tablespoon granulated sugar ½ cup white wine vinegar ⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and ground black pepper

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½ cup lightly packed chopped fresh cilantro To make vinaigrette: Combine orange zest, cumin, coriander, cayenne, honey, sugar, vinegar and oil in a blender jar and process until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste; set aside. To make salad: Combine cabbage, carrots, radishes and cilantro in large mixing bowl and toss to combine. Drizzle with dressing and toss to coat cabbage mixture evenly. Serve immediately.

To the bowl of vinaigrette add the squash, zucchini, radishes and herbs and gently (by hand is best), toss to coat; allow to sit for at least 15 minutes. Divide arugula among plates, top with squash mixture, and drizzle with remaining vinaigrette. Serve immediately. summer wine — Matthew Card

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June 3 First Thursday

Kick-Off Party with Forkfly

Join more than 50 Pearl businesses on Forkfly and receive special discounts, super customer services (like first available table when you flash Forkfly on your cell phone), and more! Win prizes by participating in the Pearl District + Forkfly Urban Adventure Race. For details come to Henry’s 12th Street Tavern beginning at 5pm, visit www.explorethepearl. com or download Forkfly on your cell phone today.

July 4

Pearl Picnic Join the Pearl District Business and Neighborhood in a community celebration at NW 13th Avenue between Lovejoy and Northrup. Enjoy live music, interactive booths, delicious food, Bridgeport microbrews, a family stage featuring great family-friendly entertainment and more! Feel free to bring a picnic from home and sit beneath our tents and umbrellas for a old fashioned Independence Day celebration. 4pm to 8pm. FREE Admission.

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summer salads cont.

1. Have fun mixing up your greens.

TIPS FOr MAKIng A PerFecT SALAD PLUS: TWO FABULOUS gArnISheS TO DreSS ThIngS UP AnD FIve vInAIgreTTeS TO USe On everYThIng

PhOTOgrAPhY BY MIKe DAvIS

“Tossed green salad.” Sounds so simple, right? Well, it should be, perhaps because salads are so simple that people don’t pay enough attention to their preparation. But with a plain salad, there’s no place to hide: It’s usually just greens and dressing, so each must be handled with care. This green salad lesson focuses on three key points: 1) selecting your greens, 2) washing and drying, and 3) proper dressing. Mastering these three steps gives you a basic platform from which you can build all kinds of salads. Create your own mix, but be sure it’s fresh: We’re so lucky to have such gorgeous salad greens available to us in this region. I like to serve salads that are simple — usually just greens with maybe cheese or nuts on top — but I like the greens themselves to have character, so I try to create a complex

mix. A big warning about mixes, however: The salad mixes sold in most grocery stores, sometimes called mesclun, can be really nice, but more often than not they’re tired and limp and they don’t taste like much. And they’re often hiding bits of slimy lettuce, so you need to pick through them carefully. You’ll get more satisfaction by blending your own. Pair aggressive greens with sweeter ones. On the strong side are frisée, radicchio, escarole and Belgian endive, which tend toward bitterness. Arugula, tatsoi, mizuna and watercress have more peppery notes. Sweet lettuces include butter or Bibb, oakleaf, mâche and romaine. Try to balance textures, too. A plateful of frisée and radicchio may look colorful, but it will be a tough chew (unless you’re doing a warm salad in which a hot dressing wilts the greens, but that’s a whole other story). Texture is where the ubiquitous iceberg lettuce comes in. Iceberg doesn’t

taste like much, but it has a succulent, crunchy texture, especially when cut into wedges or chopped. Fresh herbs are an easy way to add intriguing flavors to the mix. Don’t use the tougher varieties, such as rosemary, thyme, oregano, sage or marjoram; they’re just too strong and resinous. But a mix of sprigs of parsley, mint, basil, dill, cilantro, tarragon, chervil and even lemon verbena or lemon balm can be fantastic. Just be sure they’re in pristine condition. It’s worth the time to wash well: Whatever greens you choose, you’ll need to give them a bath, to remove the inevitable fine grit that lodges toward the root ends of lettuces, as well as to wash off any pesticides (and critters). Unfortunately, just running them under water doesn’t do this job well enough. The best way to wash greens is to fill a large bowl with cold water (you

2. Watch for grit; it only takes a little to ruin a salad.

3. Wash and refresh the leaves with a cold soak.

4. Spin your salad to get it really dry.

5. Use your hands to control the distribution of dressing.

can use the base of your salad spinner), add the greens, swish them around a bit and let them soak for a few minutes. Then lift the greens out of the water; don’t pour through a strainer or you’ll be pouring all the dirt back onto the greens. empty and rinse the bowl, which will have some grit in the bottom, and repeat the process until no more grit comes off. check the central ribs of the lettuce leaves to be sure. The cold soak also will freshen up the greens. The tools you’ll need: a knife, a spinner and your (clean) hands. how big you leave your lettuce leaves is up to you, though big leaves are hard to eat and definitely need a knife and a fork. I like to cut out any prominent ribs, such as those found on outer romaine leaves, but leave most of the others in for crunch. And I cut my lettuce rather than tear it: A sharp knife will crush the cells less than your hands will, and crushing the cells is what contributes to off flavors. now it’s time to dry the leaves. Though you can cook really well with minimal equipment, I do recommend buying a salad spinner. There’s just no better way to remove all the moisture from the crenelations of salad leaves. And wet greens lead to disappointing salads. Spin your greens in batches if you must, rather than stuffing the spinner too full; it’s not a front-loading washing machine. The greens and dressing should meet only seconds before the salad is served: Oddly enough, it’s not the acidic vinegar that hastens the wilting of the greens, it’s the oil, which can penetrate the leaf cuticle and make the lettuce limp and dark. The best way to distribute the dressing on the greens is with your hands. Just wash ’em and toss. That way you can be gentle but thorough, making sure that every leaf has just a gloss of dressing on it. If you don’t like the idea of using hands, then use a pair of spring tongs, which will allow you to manipulate the greens perhaps better than two salad forks; those

are nice for serving at the table, but not for tossing. The best way to get the right amount of dressing is to start out with just a bit, toss, then taste, and add more if you need to. A note on dressing: I’m using the word “dressing” to mean a vinaigrette, which I think is the best partner for salads except when you really want to feature the dressing rather than the greens, such as with

a blue-cheese dressing. It’s extremely quick to whisk up a vinaigrette, though plenty of lovely bottled dressings are available. But please go easy on the balsamic. For a little while, balsamic vinegar was something special, then the floodgates opened and the country seems to be awash in the sweet, brown stuff. In the right circumstance, it’s wonderful, even

the cheap imitation stuff, but sweet and heavy balsamic can easily overpower a salad. When you’re just having mixed greens, think of using a white wine vinegar or perhaps a sherry vinegar, which has some of balsamic’s rounded, woody character but is much lighter and more elegant. — Martha Holmberg

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Frizzled Shallots (above) Add a tangled pile of these crunchy, salty shallots to any type of salad, especially one that includes some beef. MAKeS 3⁄4 cUP FrIzzLeD ShALLOTS

3 medium shallots Vegetable oil Trim and peel shallots. Slice into 1⁄16 -inch slices, making sure the slices are even so they will cook evenly. Separate into rings; you should have about 1 cup of sliced shallot rings. Arrange a double layer of paper towels for draining the shallots. Heat about ½ to ¾ inch of oil in a 3-quart saucepan over mediumhigh heat until a thermometer reads 350 degrees. (It’s important to use a large pan and fairly shallow oil so there’s no danger of the oil sloshing over as you fry.) Fry shallots in two batches, stirring each batch often, until golden and just beginning to brown, about 1 minute 30 seconds per batch. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Cool completely (the shallots will continue to crisp as they cool). They’re best served right away. — Seth Lorinczi

Fricos Tuck one or two of these impossibly crisp, lacy, delicate cheese crackers into your salad greens to make even a plain mix of greens feel special. MAKeS ABOUT 8 WAFerS

1 cup freshly shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, aged asiago or aged Gouda (be sure to shred the cheese; finely grated cheese will not work) Heat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat (foil and wax paper will not work here). Mound heaping tablespoons of cheese on the parchment paper, leaving about 1½ inches between each mound. Using your finger or a fork, spread the cheese out to a thin, even layer, 2 to 2½ inches in diameter. Bake for about 8 minutes, or until melted and slightly bubbly but not browned. Remove from oven and cool for a few seconds to let the fricos set. Peel the parchment off of each cheese disk. Store in an airtight tin, layered between paper towels. — Seth Lorinczi

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An Excellent All-Around Vinaigrette MAKeS ABOUT ½ cUP

2 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar

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½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

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¼ teaspoon salt ⁄8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

vInAIgreTTeS TO USe On everYThIng

Whisk together the vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper, then slowly whisk in the oil until the dressing is blended. Taste and adjust the balance of salt, pepper and acid.

Raspberry-Thyme Vinaigrette

Note: You can substitute a red-wine or white-wine vinegar for the sherry vinegar, and all or part of the olive oil with walnut or hazelnut oil.

MAKeS ABOUT ½ cUP

2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar

Balsamic Vinaigrette

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar ½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme (or ¼ teaspoon dried) ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard ⁄8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

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6 to 8 fresh or thawed frozen raspberries 6 tablespoons good-quality extra-virgin olive oil Whisk together the white-wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar, thyme, mustard, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Add the raspberries and crush them to a rough purée with a spoon or your whisk. Whisk in the oil a little at a time until the dressing is creamy and blended. Taste and adjust the seasonings. — Martha Holmberg

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⁄3 cup balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

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MAKeS ABOUT 1 1⁄3 cUPS

Spicy Ginger-Lime-Garlic Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon minced shallot or onion ½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme ¼ teaspoon minced garlic 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon salt Pinch freshly ground black pepper In a small bowl whisk together the vinegar, mustard, shallot, thyme and garlic. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste. — FOODday

Mustard Vinaigrette MAKeS 2 cUPS

MAKeS ABOUT ½ cUP

1 teaspoon finely minced fresh ginger

½ cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon finely minced shallot

½ teaspoon finely grated lime zest

1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

½ teaspoon minced garlic

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, more to taste

1 egg (see note) ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

⁄8 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons vegetable oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon white-wine vinegar 6 drops hot sauce, more to taste ¼ cup grapeseed oil or other neutral-flavored oil Whisk together the ginger, lime zest, garlic, mustard, salt, sugar, lime juice, vinegar and hot sauce in a small bowl. Whisk in the oil a little at a time until it’s creamy and blended. Taste and adjust the seasonings. — Martha Holmberg

In a food processor, add the vinegar, shallot, lemon juice, mustard and egg; blend well. While machine is running, slowly add the oils to emulsify. Add salt and pepper to taste. Note that there’s a risk of salmonella when using raw eggs. Be sure to use a clean, uncracked egg. — Adapted from David Machado

SuMMer guide

cOcKtAils thAt Will send yOur mind tO summer cAmP

When summer starts to heat up and the temperatures soar, it’s definitely time for a drink. But wait, sometimes early summer in Portland is damp and chilly — even more reason to have a cocktail. Fortunately we’ve got a few favorites for you, no matter what the weather. — by Ashley GArtlAnd And rAechel sims Sangria: the perfect inbetween for those who can’t decide between the mellow mood of wine and something with a little more kick. it’s defined as a traditional wine punch typical of spain, but plenty of Portland restaurants put their own twist on this summer favorite. mama doris’ recipe at Andina (1314 n.W. Glisan st.) has stood the test of time with its self-described “fruity but potent” blend of wine and seasonal fruits ($5).

Venetian Spritz: in a hypothetical list of greatest contributions to the rest of the world, surely italy’s top five would include both Aperol, an aperitif made from rhubarb and bitter orange, and prosecco, the country’s leading sparkling varietal. combine them and you have this bubbly treat ($7) found on the cocktail list at lincoln (3808 n. Williams Ave.). PhOtOGrAPh by miKe dAvis

Quinn Sour: sometimes the best-kept secrets are right under your nose. le bistro montage (301 s.e. morrison st.), Portland’s requisite late-night-cajundiner-under-a-bridge, went and got themselves a hearty, top-shelf-heavy cocktail list — and almost all the drinks are $8 or less. try this perfect warm-weather blend of Pimms, loft tangerine cello, and citrus served on the rocks ($6.50). Chorizo Margarita: how to update the classic margarita? With a chorizo-infused tequila for a cocktail that’s smoky and spicy, but still quite refreshing ($9). Who puts meat in their tequila? evan Zimmerman at laurelhurst market, of course (3155 e. burnside st.). the paloMa: Kelley swenson at ten-01 mixes tequila and grapefruit soda with a squeeze of lime juice and pinch of salt for this mexican classic and summer crowd-pleaser ($8).

SauVie iSland BlaCkBerry preSS: no time to go berry picking? Oh, well, have a drink instead: vodka infused with local blackberries stars in this spritzy summer favorite from tracy Apple at the Gilt club ($6.50). grün und hoheS: When you think of cocktails, you might not immediately think of Austria, but that may change after a visit to Grüner (537 s.W. 12th Ave.), where shane Feirstein makes one that’s incredibly simple and immensely satisfying: sparkling limeade with a shot of green chartreuse and splash of vodka ($9). the SouthSide: swap gin for rum in your typical mojito and you’ve got the basis for this citrusy, mint-inflected poolside sipper. you can probably get this at just about any bar in town, or if you’ve got a surplus of mint in your garden, make one at home.

summer guide

GREAT SuMMER BEERS TO DRINk IN THE SuN, OR AFTER DARk 72

Summer calls for lighter beers, the kind that aficionados sometimes call session beers, because you want to have a session — and three or four beers — with your friends on a long summer evening. You want something light and refreshing, but not bland, tasteless golden fizz, either — Silver Bullets need not apply. Luckily, the beer world is full of great beers for the hot months; here are a few of my favorites. — BY john foYSton

Witbiers: Belgian white beers made with wheat and spiced with orange peel, coriander and such. It’s extremely pale yellow, with a rocky head, and one of the best summer beers ever made. Hoegaarden is the classic Belgian brand, but if you see any wit on the menu, try it. mactarnahan’s Lip stinger: MacTarnahan’s Brewing Co. brings back its great summer beer, Lip Stinger, a Belgian-style farmhouse ale fermented with cracked peppercorns. It’s a fine, refreshing beer widely available in 22-ounce bottles, and on tap at the brewery taproom, 2730 N.W. 31st Ave. The taproom has one of Portland’s great summer beer patios and other treats, such as Grifter IPA and Pyramid Outburst on tap. hair of the dog: Alan Sprints brews big, uncompromising beers, but he’s moved to a new Central Eastside brewery (61 S.E. Yamhill

St.) that gives him room for a proper tasting room with a full kitchen — and the space to develop some of the small beers and session beers that he’s toyed with over the years. The new HOTD promises to be a true beer fan’s destination. german Lagers: A true German lager on draft is a wonderful thing at this time of year, and there are several places to treat yourself in Portland, including Prost on North Mississippi, with several taps pouring German lagers; the Horse Brass on Southeast Belmont, with two taps devoted to various German breweries; and Gustav’s Bier Stube on Northeast Sandy, which also has several German taps. na Zdravi CZeCh piLsner: The Czechs invented golden lagers in 1843 (pilsner takes its name from its birthplace, the town of Pilzen), and Southern Oregon Brewing’s new version has the correct hint of sulfur and the gentle hopping

of the original. Available in bottle and on tap. upright breWing four: This young brewery is making what they call farmhouse ales with a Pacific Northwest twist. Their wheat-based Four is one of my favorites, and the version they spiced with fatali peppers, which are hotter even than habaneros, was one of my favorite beers ever. sierra nevada piLsner: When one of the oldest, biggest and best-loved craft breweries decides to make a pilsner, it’s no surprise when they get it just right, as Sierra Nevada did. Widely available in bottles. terminaL gravity esg: Sure, we all know and love their IPA, but TG’s Extra Special Golden is a treat all its own. Bright gold with a lovely, peachy nose, this is a beautiful, refreshing beer that redeems the entire golden ale category. £ PHOTOGRAPH BY ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON