MIX Magazine May 2011

May ’11 Portland’s Magazine of Food + Drink

Bartenders who mean business Flirty brunch bubblies Indian-spiced feast Tasty new hops for Oregon IPAs

DIY 24 /7 NATE QUERY OF THE DECEMBERISTS MAKES HOMEBREWING LOOK EASY / P 34

OUR ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO MAKING YOUR OWN SUSHI / P 43

MAY 2011

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editor’s note Six years ago, I came to Portland for a minivacation and I not only fell in love, but I also found my tribe. Now, that’s saying a lot considering I grew up in the Bay Area, land of sapphire blue skies, long growing seasons and insanely good food on virtually every corner.

But we stayed at the Jupiter Hotel and relished its indie vibe. We ate at nearby Colleen’s Bistro (in what is now Le Pigeon), where the pixie-like chef made everything from scratch, right down to the English muffins. And as we crisscrossed the town, stopping for micro-roasted coffee and local craft beers, I found myself saying, “Look!

There’s another yarn store!� almost like a mantra. Everywhere we looked, Portlanders were making stuff. Lots of it. Because they like Want to be sure you to. I was home. get every issue of MIX? See, I’m a maker, Subscribe! too. I’ve been sewing since high school, 10 issues, $19.95 knitting since college Go to mixpdx.com and canning since or call 503-221-8240.

2001, when I decided

4

to make jam for my wedding favors. I even letterpressed my own invitations (yes, you can call me crazy). I’m not saying I do any of it well, because I don’t (I really don’t). I just like to make stuff. That’s why I got into cooking in the first place.

I think we all have a “maker� in us. It’s part of the human genetic code. That’s why it’s so deeply satisfying to make something from scratch, even if it’s not perfect, or even close.

But as our day-to-day experiences get more virtual, with conversations happening in 140 characters or less and friends congregating on Facebook instead of in living rooms, it’s easy to let the world drown out our natural impulse to make something tangible. It’s easy to forget our hands can do a lot more than just type.

So if you haven’t made anything from scratch for a while, consider this issue your call to arms. We’re showing you how to make cheese, crème fraÎche, sushi and beer. We even have a dinner party with homemade naan. And bring-

ing this issue to life are a bunch of people who make for a living, not least of which is Nate Query, bassist for the Decemberists. If he can find time to home-brew his own beer, you can, too. We’re spotlighting bartenders who got so into their homemade ingredients, they turned it into a business. There’s a handbag designer who makes dinner parties a monthly priority.

And we enlisted a comic book artist to render a chef’s life through art. Because that’s what life is — an art. So, make the most of — and with — it. You’re in Portland, after all.

Danielle Centoni, editor dcentoni@oregonian.com

Allow us to dazzle you with an heirloom jewelry collection of exquisite proportion and a nice bit of history to go with it.

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MAY 2011 26 Get toGether / SundAY SuPPerS: A local handbag designer spreads the love, and the work, with an Indian-themed potluck.

34 nAte, the breWer boY: The Decemberists’

bassist and avid home-brewer shows us the speedy way to make beer.

43 A liFe in PictureS: Bamboo Sushi’s

Jason Knowles relates his journey to sushichefdom in graphic novel form. in everY iSSue

13 StArterS Pairing beer and whiskey, sriracha green beans, brunch musthaves 21 MixMASter Entrepreneurial bartenders 49 SelectS: Moscato d’Asti: Fizzy, fun wines perfect for spring

53 Good cheeSe Fast, fresh and easy: homemade paneer

76 hiGh Five Gluten-free treats we all want to eat

57 WAlkAbout: So much to do, and lots to eat, on Stark Street

ON THE COVER: Nate Query, of the Portland-based, chart-topping band the Decemberists, sips his homebrew

61 PubcrAWl New hops varieties change the flavor of local IPAs 65 eAt here Good grub finally arrives in Redmond 69 Scene New bistros reviewed: St. Jack and Little Bird

THIS PAGE: Sushi chef Jason Knowles rendered in pen and ink

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May 6 - July 5 THE INNOVATORS OF COMFORT™

where to find the reCiPeS in thiS iSSUe: MAIN DIShES: • Aloo Chaat, p32 • Potato and Pea Samosas, p30 • Punjabi Mustard Greens, p32 • Spicy Albacore Roll, p48 • Tandoori Masala Gobhi, p32 SIDES: • Basmati Rice With Golden Raisins and Cashews, p33 • Naan, p29 • Spicy Green Beans With Sesame, Cilantro and Lime, p16

DESSERTS: • Indian Rice Pudding, p33 DRINKS: • Fluff Punch, p24 • Imbue’s Vespa, p24 • Uva Bella, p24 MISCELLANEoUS: • Crème Fraîche, p14 • Paneer, p55 • Spicy Cilantro and Mint Chutney, p31 • Sweet Tamarind Chutney, p31

Online extras at mixPdx.Com: • Get more sriracha-spiked recipes: Devilish Eggs and Pepper-Crusted Pork Tenderloins With Palm Sugar Glaze.

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• Find out where to buy our panel’s favorite Moscato d’Asti wines.

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• Give your homemade paneer a good home with a recipe for Paneer Kadai from East India Co. Grill. follow us on

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contributors

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joshua M. bernstein is a Brooklyn journalist and critic who writes about beer, food, spirits, travel and bicycles for New York Magazine, Time Out New York, New York Press and Imbibe. He spends his days pedaling his trusty bike around New York City, searching for oddball characters, crisp pork-and-chive dumplings, cool pints of properly poured beer and bars that are as frightening as their drinks are strong. While researching hop varieties for “Rare Breeds� (Page 61), he was struck by how they put a flavorful new spin on the Oregon IPA. “Typically, West Coast IPAs have plenty of pine and citrus notes,� he says. “But with the Citra and Nelson Sauvin hops, the beers tasted like tropical fruits and even white wine.� His book on the global craft-beer revival, “Brewed Awakening,� will be released this fall by Sterling Publishing.

Local food stylist, recipe developer and writer Caroline ford is always pondering her next meal, the best dish to serve it on and how to make it smile for the camera. She has a sweet spot for all things spicy and was particularly happy to test the sriracha recipes on Page 16. “The heat was perfect for me, but we enjoyed watching the raised eyebrows of Oregonian staffers who had been lured to the test kitchen by the scent of pork tenderloin.� Luckily, she had also made plenty of mild paneer for her Good Cheese story on Page 53, which helped cool things down.

Writer lucy burningham thought that because she appreciates good beer, she’d automatically brew good beer. Needless to say, home brewing has been a lesson in humility. In the course of reporting “Brew Like a Rock Star� (Page 34), she learned some invaluable tricks from the Decemberists’ bassist Nate Query, but she still thinks he makes it look easy. When she’s not obsessing over making perfect beers and pie crusts, she’s writing for The New York Times, Saveur, Imbibe, Sunset and more.

For our feature on sushi chef Jason Knowles (Page 43), Portland artist rich ellis took a departure from his usual superheroes, gods and monsters to try his hand at rendering food. “When I started this project I knew that the biggest challenge was going to be capturing the freshness of ingredients and the beauty of Jason’s food in pen and ink,� says Ellis. “I knew I was on the right track when I found myself taking snack breaks every 15 minutes.� Rich earned his bachelor’s degree in sequential art from the Savannah College of Art and Design. His clients include Marvel Comics, Th3rd World publishing, Microsoft/ MNML, Comic Foundry, Michael Curry Design, Walker/Bloomsbury UK, Red5Publishing and Willamette Week. Rich is a member of Periscope Studio, the largest studio of comic book artists in North America.

OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS grant butler, Danielle Centoni, katherine Cole, ashley gartlanD, MiChelle kline, ivy Manning OTHER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS/ILLUSTRATORS faith CathCart, Mike Davis, brian feulner, jaMie franCis, Motoya nakaMura, beth nakaMura, ross williaM haMilton, ranDy l. rasMussen

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VOLUME 5 / ISSUE 4

mixpdx.com DANIELLE CENTONI / EDITOR

dcentoni@oregonian.com

LINDA SHANKWEILER / CREATIVE DIRECTOR

lshankweiler@oregonian.com

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rdarmon@oregonian.com

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starters Page 14: Chocolate nibbles, personal pies, DIY crème fraîche Page 16: sriracha-spiked green beans Page 18 : Brunch bunch

A pairing of a different sort Some of us match wine with food.

Produce Row Cafe, At Produce Row, owner Alan Davis 204 S.e. oak St., matches whiskey with beer.

503-232-8355; Davis began offering the pairings producerowcafe.com when he noticed that the beer buffs among his clientele were ordering a whiskey with their favorite ale; the whiskey lovers would sip their favorite spirit, then cleanse their palates with a beer back.

“It was happening so much, it made sense to me to put some effort into matching beers and whiskeys that would complement each other,” says Davis. So he assembled a tasting panel, which included local whiskey authority Stuart Ramsay, to sample likely candidates until they found solid matches.

The lineup currently matches Kentucky bourbons and whiskeys with West Coast beers. For example, Woodford Reserve gets paired with Laurelwood Free Range Red, while Blanton’s Single Barrel gets matched with Terminal Gravity IPA. But Davis plans to rotate the offerings periodically to include imports as well. Prices run from $5 to $9 for a shot of whiskey with a 7-ounce glass of beer.

What’s the proper protocol for imbibing a beer-whiskey pair? “Really, there are no rules,” says Davis. “I’m not trying to dictate my customer’s experience.” But press this whiskey lover and it’s obvious he has opinions. What does he think about the whiskey-within-a-beer known as a boilermaker?

“That, to me, is disgusting,” he admits. And whiskey shots?

Davis shrugs his shoulders in defeat: “The whiskeys are really meant to be sipped.” — KATheRIne CoLe PhoToGRAPhy By BRIAn FeuLneR

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startersCont.

to do May To Do May 1

Eat seafood to save seafood

to do

In honor of American Wetlands Month, several top oregon restaurants are offering an aqua Plate Special throughout May. They’ll Do Cont. offer a to menu item using sustainable seafood such as local oysters, crab, shrimp and salmon, which are all dependent on the health of oregon’s estuaries, with a portion of Feb. 1 the proceeds going to The Wetlands It’s Conservancy. obvious, Restaurants include don’t you think?

Aquariva, Cafe nell, Lucy’s Table, nostrana, has Southpark, February been Tabla andboth Wildwood. designated National wetlandsconservancy.org Cherry Month and great

February

american Pies Month.

May 2homemade honor both with pie.numbers Strengthcherry through

Fifty restaurants. Twenty wineries.

Five breweries. Countless tasty bites and sips. one cause: ending childhood hunger. It all adds up to Taste of the Nation 2011, Share our Strength’s annual event where 100 percent of proceeds go to making sure kids don’t grow up hungry. strength.org/portland May 4

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Lunch at the market Farmers markets are cool to begin with, but the Wednesday edition of the Portland Farmers Market in Shemanski Park in the South Park Blocks may be the coolest of all.

Vendors are streamlined and there are plenty of booths selling grilled lamb sandwiches, spicy Latin fare and Middle eastern delicacies. When you get back to the office, you’ll have baskets of fresh berries — and lunch! portlandfarmersmarket.org May 5-8

Fiesta forever!

Waterfront festival season kicks off with Cinco de Mayo, a spicy four-day carnival/food fair that features live music and plenty of dancing. Bring your appetite and dancing sneakers. cincodemayo.org

more to Do

more to Do

eat thIs now / ChoColate Dragées Toss that Costco-sized tub of subpar chocolate-covered almonds aside. At his Southeast Portland chocolate laboratory, sous chef turned chocolatier David Briggs has unveiled a new and decidedly decadent stand-in: dragées.

The newest Xocolatl de David product line weds premium chocolate with highquality nuts and flavorings to create a trio of confections rooted in Briggs’ savorymeets-sweet philosophy. Marcona almonds get a dusting of smoked Spanish paprika and fleur de sel and an earthy Bolivian chocolate coating, while hazelnuts from local favorite Freddy Guys hazelnuts are laced with black truffle salt then enrobed in a smooth chocolate shell. (Truffle lovers take note: This dragées’ bold flavor is suited solely for you.) My favorites, however, are the most diminutive dragées of the bunch: wild Tuscan pine nuts coated in rich ecuadorean chocolate. Good luck making the pint-size package last. — AShLey GARTLAnD hazelnuts & Black Truffle and Almonds & Pimenton dragées $12 for 4 ounces; Chocolate Covered Wild Tuscan Pine nuts $5.50 for 1.4 ounces. Available at Cacao, Cork, Foster & Dobbs, Meat Cheese Bread, or online at xocolatldedavid.com.

overhearD on twItter

“I just got Gwyneth Paltrow’s new cookbook, and I have to say it’s very illuminating. That’s because I set it on fire.”

— Ruth Bourdain, Twitter “personality”

eat thIs / hanD pIes from lIttle pots anD pans There’s something about refrigeration that turns a pie crust from melt-in-yourmouth to hard and greasy. But the hand pies from Portland-based Little Pots and Pans have found a magically delicious loophole, because they’re light and flaky even when gobbled straight from the fridge. of course, the vegetable-filled tarts are even better when warmed in the oven, making pies such as the roasted tomato, caramelized onion and goat cheese even more ridiculously good. But either way, you’d be hard-pressed to get a better lunch or dinner down your gullet faster. This month, the homegrown company adds fruit pies to its lineup, starting with a rich and jammy strawberry pie and a luscious ginger peach (both currently available only at new Seasons), so you can have pie for dinner and dessert. — DAnIeLLe CenTonI you can find the hand pies in the deli case at grocery stores and at coffee shops around the city. For a list, visit littlepotsandpans.com.

make It Yourself! / Crème fraîChe Would you rather spend $4 or $2 for 8 ounces of crème fraîche? Silly question, right? Then why are you still buying the pricey stuff? you can make your own crème fraîche for cheap simply by mixing heavy cream with something cultured, then letting it sit somewhere warm.

That’s it. Mix and sit. For every 1 cup of cream, mix in 1 tablespoon of cultured buttermilk,

+

plain yogurt or sour cream. Cover and place on top of something warm — a heating pad, radiator, stove with a pilot light, you get the idea. It should be between 70 and 80 degrees. In summer, you can likely just set it on the counter. Let it sit for eight to 24 hours until it looks thickened, then chill another day until it has thickened a bit more.

=

startersCont. use It up

to Do Cont.

May 6-8

Road trip! Road trip!

The five-plus hour drive from Portland to Walla Walla is one of the most glorious in the northwest, with commanding views of the Columbia River Gorge dominating the landscape for much of the way.

When you get there, you’ve got a glorious wine and food scene waiting for you, and there’s no better time to discover the riches than Spring Release Weekend. Many wineries open for just these three days, offering a chance to taste syrahs, cabernets and merlots that could never be grown in oregon. After tasting, hit great restaurants like Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen or local favorite T. Maccarones. wallawallawine.com saffronmediterraneankitchen.com tmaccarones.com

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May 7

Things could get hairy Raise a pint to northwest microbreweries and home-brewers at eugene’s one-day Sasquatch Brewfest. you and Bigfoot can sample pilsners, bocks and IPAs while listening to live music and sampling great local food. northwestlegendsfoundation.org/ sasquatch_brewfest.html May 8

Dear ol’ mom Ways to make mom happy on Mother’s Day: 1) Make her a homemade card; 2) Bring her flowers — bonus points if they’re from your garden; and 3) Promise to fold the laundry — and actually follow through with it! oh, and take mom out to brunch someplace she’ll love. For views: Portland City Grill or Three Degrees. For comfort food: Screen Door or Mother’s Bistro & Bar. For boozy fun: Florida Room or Por Que no.

more to Do

Sriracha Most of us have refrigerators and pantries crammed with a united nations of partially consumed condiments, spices and seasonings — ingredients bought for one-off recipes or out of culinary curiosity. That’s a lot of flavor (and money) just killing time in your kitchen. So put those ingredients to good use by using them in slightly untraditional ways.

Let’s start with an easy ingredient: huy Fong brand Sriracha hot Chili Sauce. The bright-hot, subtly garlicky sauce is a tabletop staple at Vietnamese pho joints, but it tastes just as good squiggled onto a burrito or across french fries.

But you can take it beyond condiment status by

adding it to just about anything needing a bright, spicy kick.

Case in point: deviled eggs. The flabby filling of most deviled eggs cries out for the sauce’s fat-cutting chile heat and acidity. or stir it into a simple sauce of lime juice and brown sugar, then toss with sautéed green beans. As for meat, think glazes. A mix of sriracha, fish sauce and palm sugar transforms mildmannered pork. Swipe it on nearly cookedthrough chops or roasts, or pepper-crusted sautéed pork tenderloins. The results are on the spicy side, but the sweetness tempers the heat well. — MATTheW CARD

Spicy Green Beans With Sesame, Cilantro and Lime MAKeS 4 SeRVInGS

If you don’t have a box of Maldon Sea Salt Flakes in your cupboard, you should. The uniquely large, flaky shape of the crystals adds crunch and bursts of salinity to finished dishes.

Salt 1 pound green beans, trimmed 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (divided) 1 tablespoon packed brown sugar 2 teaspoons sriracha sauce 1 tablespoon vegetable oil ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro 4 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds Coarse salt, preferably Maldon Sea Salt Flakes Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Season generously with salt (it should taste like sea water), add green beans and cook until just tender, 6 to 9 minutes.

Drain, cool under cold running water and blot dry on a kitchen towel.

In small bowl, whisk together 4 teaspoons of the lime juice, brown sugar and sriracha sauce. heat oil in a large skillet set over high heat until smoking. Add green beans and toss to coat

with oil. Stirring very little, cook until beans are PhoToGRAPhy

By MoToyA browned in spots and tender, about 5 minutes. nAKAMuRA Add lime juice mixture, toss beans to coat and cook until moisture is evaporated, about 1 minute. off heat, add cilantro, sesame seeds and remaining lime juice; toss. Serve immediately sprinkled with coarse salt. — MATTheW CARD

 onlIne eXtra: get more sriracha recipes for devilled eggs and glazed pork at mIXpDX.Com

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startersCont.

Breakfast club: to Do Cont.

May 14

You want gravy with that?

It’s National Buttermilk Biscuit Day, and there are plenty of great biscuits in town to help you celebrate. hit Pine State Biscuits, where light, fluffy biscuits star in hefty sandwiches, or the weekends-only brunch at Podnah’s Pit, where they come slathered in country-style gravy and two eggs. pinestatebiscuits.com podnahspit.com

BrIllIant

wrIte on

Forget overcooking. I’ve got the timing down.

For me, the pitfalls of hard-cooked eggs are found in the trip from sink to stove, when the roly-poly eggs swimming in water careen around and bang into each other. Cracks, it seems, are inevitable. (yeah, I could slow down, but I won’t.) enter this wire egg holder, which doubles as a cooking rack.

Place a half-dozen eggs in the wire cups and lower the rack into a pot of water.

The eggs won’t bounce around and crack, they’ll be easy to lift out and cool, and you can serve them right from the rack.

Sure, you could put a sticky, half-consumed jam jar on the breakfast table, or you can present your preserves with style. We love handmade look of this squat, chubby pot (yet another awesome find from Pennsylvania-based Terrain). We especially love its band of chalkboard paint.

Scribble the name of the featured flavor, write a cheerful message or doodle until your toast pops up.

— DAnIeLLe CenTonI

— DAnIeLLe CenTonI

$18, shopterrain.com

$24, shopterrain .com

May 14

Go for the gusto!

At the Portland Indie Wine Festival, 40 jury-selected, limited-production wines go head-to-head for bragging rights, but the real competition is among festival-goers jockeying to get tasty morsels from some of Portland’s best chefs. indiewinefestival.com

18

May 27-June 19

Roses on the rise The annual Portland Rose Festival includes parades, sailors, food on sticks and princesses. It all kicks off with a massive fireworks display. Looking for the perfect place to watch? Try the riverside back deck of Clarklewis in the Industrial eastside or venture 15 floors above downtown to the rooftop patios of Departure restaurant, where the mortar blasts won’t have as much sting with a frilly cocktail in hand. rosefestival.org May 28-30

make thIs / BostoCk Let’s be honest. Breakfast and brunch recipes have gotten a bit predictable. Waffles, pancakes, scrambles — we’ve been there, done that. Many times. Fancy pastries? Best left to the professionals. But Bostock (Bostock? yes! Bostock!) is the answer to our pre-noon prayers. We recently discovered it in “Tartine Bread” (Chronicle Books, $40) a cookbook we adore from the much-lauded bakery in San Francisco. Though Bostock sounds decidedly British, it’s apparently a classic French trick for giving day-old brioche a lot more verve than pain perdu. Slices of toasted brioche are brushed with a syrup of orange juice, orange liqueur and orange blossom water, slathered in jam, topped with a frangipane-like purée of almonds, sugar, eggs and butter, then baked until golden.

It’s precisely as good as it sounds, dead easy, and destined to perk up your next brunch. — DAnIeLLe CenTonI

 onlIne eXtra: get the Bostock recipe from “tartine Bread” at mIXpDX.Com

PhoToGRAPh By eRIC WoLFInGeR, FRoM “TARTIne BReAD,” ChRonICLe BooKS

Uncorking new tastes A holiday weekend among the vines can be magical, and the three-day Memorial Weekend in Wine Country offers a chance to visit tasting rooms and wineries that aren’t normally open to the public. eight Vancouver, Wash., wineries will be open this weekend. or head to the Willamette Valley AVA, then retire to a lovely dinner at McMinnville’s Thistle or Dundee’s Farm to Fork. willamettewines.com thistlerestaurant.com innatredhills.com/farm_to_fork.html visitvancouverusa.com

guIltY pleasure / hot Doughnuts When I first discovered Moody’s doughnuts (run out of a little cart behind the Rocking Frog Cafe), their weekend-mornings-only availability was the only thing keeping me from full-on gluttony. An old-school machine plopped riceand-wheat flour batter into hot oil, turning out finger-lickin’ fried-to-order cake doughnuts. Last year, the cart and doughbot retired, but the cafe bought Moody’s original recipe and moved production inside, dooming my willpower for good. now I can get the hot, freshly fried doughnuts any day of the week.

They’re served plain or glazed with vanilla or chocolate, but the best is tossed with cinnamon-sugar: tender and caky inside, sandy, sweet and greasy-in-agood-way outside. So evil, and so worth it. — DeenA PRICheP 2511 S.e. Belmont St.; 503-230-8914; rockingfrogcafe.com

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4210 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.287.4440 thearrangementpdx.com

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Blackbird Wine Atomic Cheese

Soluna Restaurant & Bar

We also offer a delectable array of international artisan cheeses, meats and excellent fresh bread to complete the picture.

• Monthly Supper Clubs

NE Fremont Marketplace

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Amalfi’s

• Globally inuenced NW Cuisine

4323 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.821.9188 www.blackbirdwine.com

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Carefully hand selected, unique wines made by small, gifted producers from around the world.

To-stay or to-go, happiness is inevitable

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A neighborhood ďŹ xture for more than 30 years, The Arrangement is a place where neighbors bump into friends and there is always a personal touch that makes shopping fun. The Arrangement has an outstanding selection of gifts, women's clothing, jewelry, holiday decorations and home decor.

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• Early & Late Night Happy Hour Lunch, Dinner & Happy Hour 6 days a week Sunday Brunch 9am-2pm 4440 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR (corner of 45th & NE Fremont) 971.222.3433 www.solunagrill.com

Established in 1959, AmalďŹ â€™s is legendary for the best pizza in Portland, casual Italian cuisine and unique cocktail recipes.

Whether you’re in the mood for a pizza and beer or an outstanding entree and ďŹ ne wine, AmalďŹ â€™s offers a quality dining experience in a casual non-pretentious environment. Fireside dining in the bar or on the outdoor piazza. * 2011 Happy Hour of the Year,

by Portland Happy Hour Guidebook

4703 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.284.6747 www.amalďŹ srestaurant.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Josh Frickle at 503.294.4127 or jfrickle@oregonian.com

mixmaster

21

good tiki drinks are notoriously labor-intensive, often relying on several types of intricately spiced syrups in addition to fresh fruits and juices. Instead of turning to premade mixes of middling quality, tiki-drink guru and bartender Blair reynolds formulated his own components. the results were so good, he couldn’t help but bottle them to share with other tropical drink lovers. now his line of trader tiki syrups can be found in bars and liquor stores all over the country.

[ Portland’s bartenders break out their own bottled booze and blends ]

I

n just a few short years, it’s become de rigueur for portland bartenders to make their own bitters and tinctures and tonics. they carve ice by hand, infuse their own spirits and make sour mixes from scratch. and though these tasks total a mighty tall to-do list, that hasn’t prevented a few industrious bartenders from scrutinizing their bar shelves and asking, “What’s next?” these are the bartenders who’ve tacked new titles such as producer and distiller onto their lengthy résumés. “For bartenders like ryan magarian with aviation gin, neil kopplin with Imbue (Bittersweet Vermouth) and myself, it’s a natural progression in the craft of bartending,” says ryan Csanky, Wildwood bartender and erstwhile distiller. “I want to be able to make things from scratch and to have the deepest understanding of my ingredients that I can possibly have.” producing and bottling their own products allows bartenders to flex their creative muscles outside their bars and improve the range and quality of the spirits and mixers they stock in them. But their dedication has an added bonus for cocktail geeks, as their portland-made products are perfect additions to home bars, too.

B y ashley gartland / photography By motoya nakamura

mixmastercont.

The DisTologisTs

22

Back in 2005, bartender and cocktail consultant Ryan Magarian began blurring the lines between bartending and distilling when he partnered with distillers Christian krogstad and lee medoff to produce house spirits’ aviation gin. during product development, magarian used his discerning palate and extensive bartending background to help the duo produce an unprecedented northwest-style gin. “mixing liquid for a living has made me keenly sensitive to flavor combinations and balances,” says magarian. “and, more than anything, adding my palate to the mix — especially with my mind firmly centered on how the spirit might work in mixed drinks — certainly didn’t hurt the development of aviation gin.”

While working on the gin, magarian also coined a title for his new trade: distologist. the term melds the words distiller and mixologist, and refers to bartenders who have moved beyond the craft of making cocktails and use their expertise to bring a spirit to market.

It was a bartending background and fascination with

fermentation science that led Csanky down a similar path.

In 2008, he co-founded artisan spirits and began producing the spirit his peers love to loathe: vodka. his gig as Wildwood’s bartender granted him a deeper understanding of the liquor market and drove him to distill smooth, subtle vodkas he’d actually want to drink. “I wanted something that was bold and could stand up in a cocktail or be something you would sip on,” he says. “you almost never hear of someone ordering a vodka neat, but I wanted that to be a possibility.”

Csanky introduced two highend vodkas to the market, but his success was short-lived. a bad partnership and crumbling economy shuttered the business last year. But the eager barman hasn’t overcome the distilling bug yet. “I’m not done by any means,” he says. “It’s just a matter of figuring out the best way to get a new product line going, learning from old mistakes and picking up all the pieces.”

MixeRs as important as good spirits are, mixers can really make or break a cocktail. so it’s not really a surprise that many bartenders choose to make

“Best in Show”

their own. But two portland mixologists have gone one step further, bottling and branding their creations.

Blair Reynolds, tropical drinks guru and former thatch tiki Bar bartender, worked in tiki establishments for years, honing his techniques, recipes and expertise. In late 2009, he began to translate his experience into a new career as entrepreneur, launching a line of small-batch flavored syrups rooted in history and crucial to making tropical cocktails. his goal was to give bartenders a high-quality, small-batch alternative to the super-sweet mass-market stuff so they wouldn’t have to make it

When bartenders ryan magarian and neil kopplin (this page) saw a hole in the spirits market, they filled it. magarian partnered with house spirits to create aviation gin, which has a particularly northwest flavor profile. kopplin, meanwhile, developed Imbue Bittersweet Vermouth with partners derek einberger and Jennifer kilfoil to provide a new style of vermouth missing from the market. It uses pinot gris and brandy from oregon.

themselves. “I make syrups that are useful as both a sweetener and a flavoring agent,” he says. “they work well with others and are made with mixology in mind.” his trader tiki label now encompasses 11 handcrafted products, among them a powerful cinnamon syrup and an oregon-inspired hazelnut orgeat. like reynolds, Clyde Common bartender Neil Kopplin got into the production business to fill a void in the market. kopplin had been drinking vermouth for years but hadn’t found one that combined the palatable, lightly sweet nature of dolin Blanc with the rich, herbaceous flavor of dry vermouth. When a friend asked why no one was making an herbal-infused fortified wine in oregon, kopplin saw an opportunity to make the very vermouth he desired. “all the components were there. We had the distillers and the wine but no one had taken that step to produce local vermouth, put a brand on it and launch it,” he says. after months of research and recipe test-

ing, kopplin and his business partners, derek einberger and Jennifer kilfoil, unveiled Imbue Bittersweet Vermouth last fall. though the trio developed their vermouth together, kopplin’s bartending knowledge proved essential to creating a recipe that was as balanced as a carefully crafted cocktail. “In the end, it was exactly like making a cocktail,” he says. “you have all these components as individuals. then, you blend them together and need to make sure that the proportions are seamless so it is delicious every single time.”

Imbue’s vermouth is sweet upfront with a spicy, floral midpalate, and bests the stuff grandma stocked in her liquor cabinet in both flavor and function. “We created something that we believe is delicious right out of the bottle and eminently mixable if you choose it to be,” says kopplin. “We ended up creating the product I wanted to use behind the bar.”

Cocktail recipes

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North Mississippi Avenue 3

4

Trebol 4835 N. Albina Avenue Portland, OR 503.517.9347 www.trebolpdx.com

Mr. Green Beans is Portland’s headquarters for Do-It-Yourself Domestic arts. We carry everything for roasting your own coffee, making your own cheese and soap, canning and preserving, cultures and starters and much more. We also have a full line of classes to get you started.

3932 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.288.8698 www.mrgreenbeanspdx.com

Mississippi Marketplace

Humboldt St

2

Mr. Green Beans

1

Skidmore St

1

2

Shaver St

Failing St

Beech St

Mississippi Ave

3

Ruby Jewel Come and enjoy the heavenly marriage of vanilla bean ice cream, dulce sauce and rosemary pecans in a sundae. We take pride in using locally sourced and handmade ingredients.

Specialities include homemade ice cream sandwiches, two vegan and 12 small batch avors.

4

Lorenzo’s Ristorante Italiano Lorenzo’s offers a variety of standard and family inspired food. Dine in this classic, yet casual environment and allow our staff to guide you through some of Portland’s best Italian food.

Portland’s newest location for small batch artisan ice cream cones, sundaes and sandwiches.

Lorenzo’s uses local hormone free meats, imported and domestic cheeses and cured meats.

3713 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.505.9314 www.rubyjewel.net

3807 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.284.6200 www.lorenzospdx.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Josh Frickle at 503.294.4127 or jfrickle@oregonian.com

Get toGether [ Sunday supper, Indian style ]

By MICheLLe KLINe / Photography by MIKe DAVIS

26

The Menu Main Dishes

Sides

Drinks

• Aloo Chaat • Chana Dal • Potato and

• Basmati Rice With Golden

• Mango Lassi

Raisins and Cashews

• Punjabi Mustard

• Cucumber Mint Raita • Naan • Spicy Cilantro and Mint

• Tandoori Masala

• Sweet Tamarind Chutney

Pea Samosas Greens Gobhi

Extras • 15-Spice Curry Powder

Chutney

Store-bought pappadams and lemon pickle

Retsina Vinho verde Dessert

• Indian Rice

Pudding With Cardamom

Curried cashews (just coat cashews in a mix of melted butter, curry powder and salt, and bake at 350 degrees until warm and toasty)

• Recipes featured in this issue • Recipes on the web at MIXPDX.COM

Michelle shopped at Fiji Emporium (7814 N. Interstate Ave.) for Indian spices, pappadams and lemon pickle.

i

have often fantasized about growing up in one of those big Italian families where various grandparents, aunts, uncles, siblings, cousins and random friends from the neighborhood all gather on Sundays at a huge table for a big feast.

Copious amounts of food are accompanied by the din of many conversations happening at once — debates, guffawing, razzing and back-slapping — like a scene out of a Cassavetes film where everything and everyone is “just terrific!” and there’s no end to the food or wine in sight.

I grew up in a small family in the burbs far from grandparents, aunts and uncles, so our Sunday dinners looked and sounded very different from that scenario, though we did eat together every Sunday night.

College, travel and a career as an artist and handbag designer always found me living far away from my family — both immediate and extended — which is why I think having a sense of community among friends is, and always has been, really important to me. It doesn’t take much for me to find a reason to gather people together merely for the sake of eating good food and hanging out with friends. “Kentucky Derby?

Sure, party over here!” “New Year’s Day … Let’s make brunch!” “What? You’re not celebrating your birthday? Um, yes you are … at our house!”

I love people, I love to cook, and I love to eat. And I’m lucky to know many amazing and talented people here in Portland who have become family to me in so many ways. Finally, one day it hit me, why not make my little Sunday supper fantasy happen after all?

Initially, I was hesitant to cook big Sunday suppers for a few reasons: the constraints of my 1,200-square-foot

27

Get toGether cont.

28

apartment, my small-ish, inefficient kitchen and the cost of feeding a slew of friends. Potlucks, on the other hand, are always such a hodgepodge of tastes and, invariably, you end up with three green salads and a bunch of mismatched food.

Then, about a year ago, I figured out how to make it work. I could have a potluck but add a theme to make the meal more cohesive. Also, I made an online event page so guests could post the dishes they were bringing, which would help avoid overlap and generate ideas. I decided to call it “Second Sunday Supper @ Seven Sharp.” I added the “Seven Sharp” to give a little nudge to those few often-late friends and give a sense of formality to a truly informal event (so we’d have an excuse to dress up).

My friends are amazing cooks, and the Sunday Suppers have been a big success. At each gathering people inevitably end up meeting someone they hadn’t met before and tasting — or cooking — some new food they hadn’t tried before.

Our latest SSS@SS had an “Indian Feast” theme — inspired by my love of Indian food, the smell of freshly roasted cumin seeds and some brightly colored photos I saw of the holi Festival in India, which celebrates the coming of spring.

It was one of the best suppers we’ve had to date.

The spread was beautiful, the food was delicious and though I haven’t seen any back-slapping per se (actually, I take that back), there has definitely been some guffawing, razzing and several loud conversations going on at once. All in all, it was a seriously terrific evening.

The Playlist “RADIO INDIA: THE ETERNAL DREAM OF SOUND 1 & 2”

This album is from Sublime Frequencies, a great source of international world music, film, shortwave, field and radio recordings. It’s a seriously eclectic mix of traditional folk songs, pop hits and Bollywood film themes. I downloaded the album at lobefood.com.

During her monthly Sunday suppers, handbag designer Michelle Kline (top left) gets the chance to indulge in two of her favorite things — food and friends. Check out her handbags at xobruno.com.

G R E A T

Escapes

Oven Grilled Naan (Tandoori Naan) MaKeS 10 breaDS

Naan are flatbreads traditionally grilled in a tandoor oven. But even though this basic recipe is baked under the broiler, it easily beats storebought naan. ¼ cup warm water (about 110 degrees) 1 teaspoon granulated sugar 1 (¼ ounce) packet active dry yeast ½ cup nonfat plain yogurt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 cups all-purpose flour or bread flour, plus more for coating the dough

Alta Crystal Resort at Mt Rainier Open all year – ski, hike, relax, save. Ski Crystal Mountain in the morning. Hike to waterfalls in the afternon. Take the Mt Rainier Gondola to incredible views and gourmet dining at 6872’. Soak in our hot tub and heated pool. Relax in a charming fireplace suite or our romantic honeymoon cabin. Crystal is open for skiing until June 12 (or later) and all of this is just 31⁄2 hours away! Save almost 30% with low spring rates.

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¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste ¼ cup melted butter or ghee, for basting Measure the warm water in a 1-cup measuring cup. Stir in the sugar and yeast. Set aside until frothy, about 5 minutes. Mix in the yogurt and oil.

Place the flour and salt in a food processor and pulse until mixed.

With the motor running, pour the yeast mixture through the feed tube in a thin stream; process until the flour gathers into a ball and the sides of the processor are clean. (If the dough seems too sticky and isn’t coming cleanly away from the bowl, add some more flour through the feed tube. If the dough is dry and hard, add some more yogurt.)

Transfer dough to a large, oiled bowl, turn to coat lightly in oil, cover bowl with plastic wrap and place in a warm, draft-free spot until dough doubles in volume, about 3 to 4 hours.

With clean, lightly oiled hands, divide the dough equally into 10 balls and cover with plastic wrap to prevent drying. Place some flour in a shallow bowl. Working with one ball of dough at a time, place it in the bowl and coat with the dry flour. Transfer to a clean work surface and roll it into a 6- to 7-inch circle or triangle.

Preheat the broiler. Place several circles of dough on a baking sheet.

Lightly brush the tops with water. Place the baking sheet 4 to 5 inches below the heating element and broil until small brown spots appear on the top surface, about 1 minute. With a spatula, carefully turn each naan over and cook until the other side is golden, about 30 seconds.

Repeat with the remaining dough. Transfer naan breads to a platter, baste lightly with melted butter (and garlic if desired) and serve hot.

Adapted from “1,000 Indian Recipes” (Wiley, 2002) by Neelam Batra

Skamania County In Skamania County there are open spaces, spectacular views & unique experiences. Try a relaxing mineral bath at Bonneville Hot Springs Resort.

Spend the night at Skamania Lodge in Stevenson, a weekend in a cabin along the Columbia River or quiet Carson Valley. Hike the core of a volcano, discover a waterfall or golf a scenic course. Relax, watch kiteboarders & windsurfers. Take the short drive up the Gorge, just 45 min. from Portland.

Discover it all for yourself. We’re waiting for you in Skamania County.....

800.989.9178 Skamania.org

Silverwood Theme Park Jump in the car for a short drive to Silverwood, the northwest’s largest theme park, a place filled with fun and excitement for everyone! Gigantic steel & massive wooden roller coasters, raft rides, a skyscraping drop tower, oceans of wave pools, slides & a laid back lazy river. Just north of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho on Hwy. 95.

1-208-683-3400 SilverwoodThemePark.com

PORTLAND’S LOCALLY OWNED WING HOUSE

12 HOMEMADE

SAUCES

1708 E. Burnside Ave. 503.230.WING (9464) 4225 N. Interstate Ave. 503.280.WING (9464) www.portlandwings .com

Potato and Pea Samosas MaKeS about 4 Dozen

Though it takes a fair amount of time to assemble these crunchy, flaky triangles, it’s kind of crafty and fun. But if you don’t want to have to fuss with them the day of the party, just make them in advance and freeze them before baking. You can then bake them from frozen, adding a few more minutes to the cooking time.

Peel the potatoes and cut into ½-inch cubes. Steam until tender, about 5 to 7 minutes.

4 medium russet potatoes

With a sharp knife, cut the phyllo sheets in half or in thirds lengthwise (depending on how big the sheets are) to make long strips that are about 3 inches wide. Cover with a lightly damp (but not wet) clean cotton kitchen towel.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil or ghee 2 teaspoons cumin seeds 30

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 1 to 3 jalapeño chiles, minced 1½ tablespoons ground coriander ½ teaspoon salt, or to taste ½ teaspoon garam masala (see note) ½ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro 1 teaspoon amchoor (mango powder; see note) 1 cup frozen peas ½ pound phyllo pastry sheets, defrosted overnight in the refrigerator ½ cup to 1 cup melted butter, for brushing phyllo Sweet Tamarind Chutney (see accompanying recipe) Spicy Cilantro and Mint Chutney (see accompanying recipe)

heat the oil in a large nonstick wok or saucepan over medium-high heat and add the cumin seeds; they should sizzle upon contact with the hot oil. Add the potatoes, ginger, jalapeños, coriander, salt and garam masala and sauté, stirring occasionally, until potatoes begin to turn golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add the cilantro, mango powder and peas and cook another 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool before using.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a baking sheet. Place a strip of phyllo on a clean, dry work surface with the short end closest to you. Brush lightly with melted butter. Place 1 tablespoon of the filling near the lower right corner.

Fold the right corner over the filling to the left side to make a triangle. Continue to fold the stuffed triangle diagonally from one side to the other like you would fold a flag. Tuck in any extra dough and seal.

In the end you should have a multi-folded triangle. Place on the baking sheet, brush the top with butter, and repeat with all the strips.

Bake, turning once midway through baking, until crispy and golden, about 25 minutes. Transfer to cooling racks. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature with Sweet Tamarind Chutney and Spicy Cilantro and Mint Chutney.

Note: Amchoor is a tart powder made from ground, dried unripe mangoes. You can find it at Indian markets. Garam masala is a spice blend that typically includes peppercorns, cloves, mace, cumin, cinnamon, green, black and brown cardamom, nutmeg, star anise and coriander.

— Adapted from “1,000 Indian Recipes” by Neelam Batra (Wiley, 2002)

Spicy Cilantro and Mint Chutney MaKeS ½ Cup

Like a spicy, minty herbal pesto, this chutney is a downright addictive and lively condiment for just about any dish. Asian groceries have huge bunches of mint for cheap — definitely the way to go unless you have lots of mint in your garden. ½ teaspoon cumin seeds 1 cup firmly packed fresh cilantro leaves 1 cup firmly packed fresh mint leaves 1 serrano chile, cut into chunks 2 teaspoons amchoor (mango powder; see note) Ÿ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or ghee In a dry skillet set over medium heat, toast cumin seeds, stirring, until fragrant and a shade darker, about 2 minutes.

In a food processor, blend seeds with cilantro, mint, chile, mango powder and salt until very finely chopped, then transfer to a small bowl and stir in lemon juice and oil. Can be made 1 day in advance, though it will darken slightly.

Note: Amchoor is a tart powder made from ground, dried unripe mangoes. You can find it at Indian markets.

Adapted from “Gourmet Today� (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2009)

Sweet Tamarind Chutney

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MaKeS about ž Cup

Most people think of chutneys as thick, chunky condiments, but they can also be thin and saucy, as in this sweet-bright mixture perfect for dunking samosas. Âź cup tamarind paste (see note)

1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon anise seeds ½ teaspoon hot chile powder (preferably Indian) ½ teaspoon salt In a 3-quart saucepan, mix tamarind paste with water and sugar. Cook over low heat, stirring, just until sugar is dissolved. Transfer to a bowl.

In a dry skillet set over medium heat, toast coriander, cumin and anise seeds until fragrant and a shade darker, about 2 minutes. Cool completely, then finely grind in spice grinder or mortar and pestle.

Stir spices into the tamarind mixture along with chile powder and salt.

Can be made up to 2 days in advance.

Note: You can find tamarind paste at markets with a large selection of ethnic foods, or at most Indian and Asian markets.

Adapted from “Gourmet Today� (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2009)

Âź cup packed dark brown sugar

½ cup water

Get toGether cont.

Sarson Ka Saag (Punjabi Mustard Greens) MaKeS 6 ServingS

This delicious dish of silky greens offers layers of subtle, complex flavors.

1 large bunch mustard greens (about 1 pound), coarsely chopped 1 small bunch fresh spinach (about 8 ounces), coarsely chopped

1 fresh green chile, such as serrano, minced 1 large tomato, chopped 1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 cup fresh dill leaves, coarsely chopped

2 teaspoons dried fenugreek leaves (see note)

3 to 4 small turnips, plus any greens, chopped

1 teaspoon garam masala (see note)

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

½ cup plain whole-milk yogurt, whisked

1 to 1½ cups water

Tandoori Masala Gobhi (Yogurt Cauliflower) MaKeS 8 ServingS

So easy and so flavorful, you’ll want to always cook your cauliflower this way.

1 cup plain yogurt ½ cup tomato paste

Garnish:

1 serrano chile, thinly sliced crosswise

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 teaspoons tandoori masala spice mix

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks

1½ teaspoons cumin seeds

Generous pinch of salt

½ teaspoon ground paprika

1 head cauliflower, cut into florets

¼ teaspoon black salt (optional; see note)

Vegetable oil or ghee

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon peeled minced fresh ginger

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2 large cloves garlic, minced

In a large pot, combine the mustard greens, spinach, dill, turnip greens (if you have them), turnips, salt and 1 cup water. Cook over medium-high heat until the greens are wilted, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a food processor and pulse until finely chopped (do not overprocess) or chop by hand.

Return mixture to the pan, cover, and simmer over medium heat until the greens and turnip pieces are very tender, about 30 minutes, adding up to ¼ to ½ cup more water, if needed.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and ginger matchsticks, and cook, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the minced ginger and garlic, and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Add the green chile and tomato and cook until the juices evaporate, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the coriander, fenugreek leaves and garam masala. When the greens are tender, stir in the onion mixture and continue to simmer for another 20 to 30 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish and swirl in the yogurt decoratively.

1 tablespoon cumin seeds 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

In a large skillet, heat the oil or ghee over medium-high heat.

When hot, add the cumin seeds.

Once they stop sputtering, add the cauliflower florets and the yogurt mixture. Cook until the cauliflower is tender. Stir in the grated ginger and garnish with cilantro leaves.

Adapted from indian.food.com

Aloo Chaat MaKeS 6 ServingS

Chaat is the name for small dishes of savory snacks served in chaat houses and carts in India. This dish made of diced potatoes spiced with chile, cumin and a chaat masala spice blend is one of the most common forms of chaat available in the streets of Delhi. Serve it with Sweet Tamarind Chutney or Spicy Cilantro and Mint Chutney.

3 medium russet potatoes, peeled 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or ghee 1 medium onion, diced ½ teaspoon cumin seeds

To make the garnish: In a small sauté pan, heat the butter over medium heat until melted and hot. Add the cumin seeds and allow to sizzle. Then add the paprika and black salt (if using) or regular salt.

Remove from heat and drizzle the spiced butter over the greens as a garnish.

1 large tomato, seeded and diced

Note: Fenugreek leaves (kasoori methi) are commonly used in Indian cuisine to add a bitter flavor. Garam masala is a spice blend that typically includes peppercorns, cloves, mace, cumin, cinnamon, green, black and brown cardamom, nutmeg, star anise and coriander. Black salt (kala namak) is a grayish coarse salt with a pungent aroma often used in Indian cuisine. You can find these things at most Indian markets.

1 teaspoon chaat masala (see note)

— Adapted from “1,000 Indian Recipes” (Wiley, 2002) by Neelam Batra

In a large bowl, whisk together the yogurt, tomato paste, chile, spice mix and salt. Add cauliflower, toss to coat, and set aside for 10 minutes.

½ teaspoon chile powder (preferably Indian) ½ teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Salt and pepper Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Peel the potatoes and cut into ½-inch cubes.

Steam until nearly cooked, about 3 to 5 minutes.

In a large sauté pan, heat the oil or ghee over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cumin seeds and sauté until the seeds sizzle. Add the steamed potato and sauté, stirring occasionally, until it begins to turn golden brown, adding more oil if necessary to keep it from sticking.

Meanwhile, in a large serving bowl, combine the tomato, chile powder, cumin, chaat masala, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Transfer the sautéed potatoes and onions to the bowl and toss to combine. Garnish with parsley leaves.

Note: Chaat masala is a spicy-tart mix of spices. You can make your own or buy it from Indian markets.

— Adapted from chaatstreet.wordpress.com

Basmati Rice With Golden Raisins and Cashews MaKeS 6 to 8 ServingS

2 cups basmati rice 3 cups water ½ cup golden raisins ½ cup toasted cashews ¾ cup coconut milk Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large saucepan, combine the basmati rice and water and set over high heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 18 minutes, or until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender. Remove from heat, stir in raisins, cashews, coconut milk and salt and pepper to taste. Cover again, set over low heat, and let steam for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork and serve.

— Michelle Kline

Kheer (Indian Rice Pudding) 33

MaKeS 4 ServingS

Scented with rose water and cardamom, this easy rice pudding is the perfect way to finish off an Indian feast.

4 tablespoons basmati rice 5 cups whole milk 8 cardamom pods ¼ cup granulated sugar Rose water to taste (optional)

Put the rice in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder and grind briefly to break the grains into 2 to 3 pieces.

(Some will get powdery, some will stay whole.)

In a large, heavy saucepan, bring the milk to a boil over medium heat. As soon as the milk starts to bubble up, reduce heat to medium low and stir in the rice and cardamom pods. Allow the milk to simmer gently, stirring frequently, for about an hour, or until the milk has reduced by almost half.

Stir in the sugar and cook for another few minutes. Remove from heat.

Remove the cardamom pods and stir in a splash of rose water, if you’re using it. Pour into a serving dish and allow to cool, stirring once or twice during cooling to prevent a skin from forming. Cover and refrigerate. Kheer can be served cold or lukewarm.

— Adapted from Madhur Jaffrey £

 onLIne eXtrA: Get more delicious Indian recipes to complete your feast at mIXpdX.com

Brew like a Nate Query, the bassist for the Decemberists, makes beer in the fast lane and shows us how it’s done

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When it comes to playing music, Nate Query, the bassist for the indie rock band the Decemberists, is wholly accustomed to improvisation, even the occasional moment of productive chaos. But when it comes to another one of Query’s passions — making beer at home — he channels a very different aspect of his personality: what he refers to as “the Virgo” in him.

Indeed, brewing beer suits a kind of hyperorganized, analytical personality. It’s an activity that requires obsessive focus, careful attention to detail, a well-studied, albeit basic, understanding of fermentation, not to mention a high level of cleanliness (all brewing equipment and bottles must be thoroughly sterilized for proper fermentation to occur). Too much “going with the flow” can easily produce undrinkable beer, the kind many of us might have been subjected to in our college days by novice dorm brewers looking to elevate the common Friday-night kegger.

Nonetheless, after an afternoon spent watching Query during one of his home-brewing sessions, it’s clear that the key to concocting a stellar beer is a mixture of scientific meticulousness and a willingness to riff.

Walk into Nate Query’s kitchen on the day of a home-brew session and witness a mise en place of hops, malt, yeast and water. When properly stoked, boiled, swished and coddled, these ingredients will coalesce to form beer. In this case, really good beer.

By Lucy Burningham Photography by Ross William Hamilton

rock star 35

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Given his affinity for low tones, Query calls his brewing operations “The Bass Mint” (although he quips that the name would be a lot cooler if he actually brewed in the basement). The action happens in the kitchen of his North Portland home, within r each of a dining room lined with stringed instruments.

The kitchen counter, recently swept clean of lunch crumbs, holds today’s tools: a yeast packet, an assortment of vacuum-packed hops, a one-page recipe and a laptop open to a page that calculates important numbers such as the beer’s original gravity, a number that reveals how much alcohol should show up in the final beer. A large pot filled with cold water waits on the stove.

This moment didn’t come easily.

Query leads a busy life. Between touring with the band and helping raise his 22-month-old son, the musician must purposefully carve out time to brew. For most people, brewing one batch of beer takes about four hours. But Query has figured out how to streamline the process by reducing the boil time — when hops are added — from 60 to 40 minutes, which, along with a few other organizational methodologies, means his brew sessions take just 2½ hours. “That’s me being a super Virgo,” he says.

Even though beer is made from just four ingredients (the aforementioned malt, hops, yeast and water), and made like a multistep soup, brewing isn’t the kind of thing you can do while whipping up dinner, despite the lag time between actions. It’s a game that requires timers and precise water temperatures. One time Query cooked an oxtail stew while brewing, and even though both beer and stew turned out great, coordinating both projects at once was simply too intense, he says.

Today he’s making a batch of Accidental IPA, the recipe he’s been honing since he started brewing in 2008, when his wife gave him a home-brew kit as a birthday present. The name of the beer came about after Query made his standard pale ale for his brother’s wedding.

During the brewing process, he had unintentionally added extra malt extract and hops, a happy accident that

Though Nate Query can’t help but tweak his beer recipes as he goes, he still approaches home-brewing with methodical organization, something that appeals to his inner Virgo. A bag of whole grains sits at the ready. He’ll use it to make a “partial mash” to add a deeper flavor than he can get with malt extract alone. Before he begins, he jots down a hops schedule to keep track of which hops he’ll be using, how much and when he’ll add them. He also gathers everything he’ll need, from his scale down to his pint glass. At right, Query sterilizes his equipment — a key part of the brewing process.

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resulted in his favorite home brew yet, a stronger and more bitter pale ale: an IPA. He still tweaks the recipe ever so slightly, given his mood. “How many times have I changed the recipe already today?” he asks, grabbing an extra packet of hops.

Recently Query started doing a “partial mash,” which means brewing with some whole grains in addition to the malt extract. It’s an advanced technique that requires more time than just using extract, but he says the process adds subtle malt flavors.

He scribbles something on a piece of paper. “Keep careful notes. That way you’ll figure out why the beer tastes the way it does,” Query says. As the minutes tick by, he doles out other advice too. “Set a timer,” he says. “It’s easy to forget what time you did what.” At its essence, brewing is as precise as baking. A good baker knows why the soufflé collapsed, just as a good brewer knows why the red ale lacked a creamy white head.

Halfway through brewing, Joel Sherman arrives.

Sherman, an avid home brewer, and Query met through their wives, who are in medical residencies together.

Query calls Sherman his brewing mentor, and Sherman continues to advise Query on everything from hops varieties to boil times. “So you did a mini mash,” Sherman says approvingly.

Sherman likes to spend an entire day making beer but admits his protégé’s efficient methodology works. “Not only does Nate brew better beers than I do, he brews more often than I do.”

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Query says he’s a jazz musician of brewing, someone who riffs and improvises as the mood strikes, while Sherman is more of a methodical classical musician.

“He thinks I’m more nerdy about beer, a technical dweeb,” Sherman says.

“You’re more careful and your space looks cleaner,” Query answers. “I know the rules and par ameters, then I wing it. Even so, I’m way more methodical with brewing than I am with any other thing I do.”

Conversation turns to commercial IPAs, like Ninkasi’s Total Domination and Terminal Gravity’s IPA. Between the beer banter and the scent of dried hops and grains stewing in hot water, we’re all getting thirsty, but as a

Before there is beer, there is wort — the unfermented liquid produced from a carefully controlled boil of grains and hops in water (aka the mash). When his mash is complete, Query tastes the wort using a hydrometer jar. Even though the liquid is very sweet, it gives him a sense of how the final beer will taste. The wort is strained to remove the hops and grains and cooled with a large coil of copper tubing that has cold water running through it. When cooled, the wort will go into a glass carboy to ferment into beer. Query’s mentor, Joel Sherman, frequently stops by on brew days to sample beers and offer advice.

Nate’s tips for making great home brew

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Find a mentor, someone with lots of home-brewing experience, who will lend you equipment in the beginning. The Oregon Brew Crew (oregonbrewcrew.com) can be a great place to start for beginners just looking for information and equipment sources.

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Make one recipe over and over again until you get the hang of it and don’t need to pause to think about each step.

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Try to cut down on brew time so that one batch takes an afternoon, not a whole day. You can do this by: • using extract and steeping grains instead of mashing • if using a stovetop, heating water in two pots, and steeping in one while the other comes to a boil • doing a shorter boil with more hops at the beginning to avoid a 60-minute hops addition

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Drink beer at the end of the brewing process, if at all. Maintain focus.

3

Be organized. Assemble everything you’ll need from start to finish (including cleanup) before you begin.

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Take copious notes. You’ll forget what you did by the time you found out if it worked (two weeks later, when your beer is done).

Sanitize, sanitize, sanitize.

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Use the Web. Scale recipes and keep a recipe database at The Beer Recipator, hbd.org/recipator.

Do the math with Beer Calculus, beercalculus.hopville.com.

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general rule, Query recommends waiting to drink beer until you’re finished brewing to improve focus.

Finally, Query fills a glass carboy with today’s Accidental IPA and carefully transports it to the basement, where a constant temperature of 63 to 66 degrees, combined with total darkness, fosters the live yeast.

Two weeks later, he brings me a bottle. He’s accustomed to sharing. Query supplied the Decemberists with kegs of home brew as they recorded their latest album, and he’s traded beer for fresh eggs with band member Chris Funk.

And for friends and family on birthdays and at Christmas? He gives them all Bass Mint beer.

I pour the golden-hued IPA into a pint glass.

It smells a little sweet and malty, a reminder of the moment when the grains met the water. As the beer rolls across my tongue, peaking with notes of bitter and citrusy hops before fading to a crisp, dry finish, I realize that even though Query riffed off the recipe with a casual coolness, he knew exactly what he was doing. There was nothing accidental about it. £ To read about Nate and Joel’s brewing exploits, visit http://relassin.blogspot.com.

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Nearby home-brew shops F.H. Steinbart Co., 234 S.E. 12th Ave., 503-232-8793; fhsteinbart.com Homebrew Exchange, 1907 N. Kilpatrick St., 503-286-0343; homebrewexchange.net Let’s Brew, 8235 S.E. Stark St., 503-256-0205; letsbrew.net Above the Rest Homebrewing, 11945 S.W. Pacific Highway, #235, Tigard, 503-968-2736; abovetheresthomebrewing.net Brew Brothers, 2038 N.W. Alocleck Drive, #203, Hillsboro, 971-222-3434; brewbrothers.biz Main Street Homebrew Supply Co., 229 E. Main St., Hillsboro, 503-648-4254; mainbrew.com Bader Beer & Wine Supply, 711 Grand Blvd., Vancouver, 360-750-1551; baderbrewing.com

We taste more coffee in a day than most people drink in a year.

Tully’s Coffee® Worth discovering

™

©2010 GMCR

Each day, Tully’s® savors the flavor of 480 different cups of coffee. It’s our way of ensuring that every sip is as smooth and rich as the last. We are passionate about bringing you handcrafted quality coffee. And there’s no such thing as passion in moderation. Available in bags and K-Cup® portion packs for Keurig® Brewers. tullys.com

Bu rn sid e

Nob Hill neighborhood W

NW 24th Ave

NW

d rR ove t s We

3 NW Vaughn St

NW Thurman St

NW Davis St

1

NW Quimby St

NW 22nd Ave

NW Pettygrove St

NW Kearney St

NW Irving St

6

NW Hoyt St

NW Glisan St

NW Everett St

NW 22nd Place

NW Northrup St

NW 23rd Ave

N

5

4 NW 21st Ave

2 1

Thinking about changing food for your pet? We carry a large selection of Natural foods for Dogs and Cats.

Come and check out our selection of Raw Food such as Nature’s Variety, NW Natural, Primal, Stella & Chewy’s.

Here at Nature’s Pet we foster cats from the Columbia Humane Society and try and find homes for them.

Free underground parking. Open M-F 10 to 7, Saturday 10-6 and Sunday 11 to 5.

Stop by and mention this ad for 10% of your entire purchase.

111 NW 21st Ave Portland, OR 503.360.1244 www.naturespetmarket.com

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Urban Fondue

Food Front Food Front is NW Portland’s freshest source for local and natural foods including organic produce; fine wines; artisan breads & cheeses; fresh, local meats; and fair trade coffee and chocolate. Whether you’re looking for daily essentials or delightful indulgences, you’ll find it at Food Front, naturally.

Open 8am-9pm Daily 2375 NW Thurman St. Portland, OR 503.222.5658 www.foodfront.coop

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5

Serving a unique dining experience featuring scratch recipe fondues made with local ingredients.

Open 7 nights a week 2114 NW Glisan St (next to Bartini) Portland, OR Reservations: 503.242.1400 or www.urbanfondue.com

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Hand Crafted Stoneware

• Fine bourbon • Classic cocktails • Southern Cuisine

Serratto

2075 NW Glisan Street Portland, OR (near the corner of NW 21st and Glisan) 503.222.1056 www.popehouselounge.com

2112 NW Kearney St. Portland OR 503.221.1195 www.serratto.com

Gift Certificates available.

Lunch, Dinner & Happy Hour Seven days a week.

Parking in our lot on NW Johnson St.

Nob Hill Marketplace

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Our unique shop offers the finest hand-painted European stoneware from Ceramika Artystyczna that is microwave, dishwasher and ovensafe. We also carry linens, antiques and gifts. We welcome your visit and are open everyday between 11am6pm. www.polishpotteryplace.com 2281 NW Hoyt St Portland, OR 97210 (corner of 23rd and Hoyt) 503.222.5463

To advertise in Marketplace contact Lindsay Grant at 503.221.8352 or lgrant@oregonian.com

call me itamae

ae, or sushi chef, To become an itam son Knowles Bamboo Sushi’s Jalife to the knife has dedicated his

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Text by Ivy Manning

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Chef Jason’s Spicy Albacore Roll recipe, next page >

Jason’s Spicy Albacore Roll maKeS 6 ROllS

When making raw-fish sushi, use fish with a “sashimi-grade” label, which means it was specially harvested and handled to reduce the risk of food-borne illnesses.

Rice aNd seasoNiNg: 7 tablespoons rice vinegar 6 tablespoons plus 1½ teaspoons granulated sugar 1½ tablespoons salt 1 (2-inch) square kombu (sea kelp; see note) ¾ teaspoon toasted sesame seeds 1 thin slice of lemon 2 cups sushi rice (see note) Roll: 8 ounces sashimi-grade albacore tuna, chopped (¾ cup; see note) 1¼ teaspoons sriracha hot sauce ½ teaspoon dark sesame oil 4 teaspoons mayonnaise 3 nori seaweed sheets, folded lengthwise and cut in half ¼ cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into strips (¼ inch thick and 2 inches long) 1 ripe avocado, very thinly sliced

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Wasabi and soy sauce (for serving)

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twenty-four hours before preparing the roll, make the vinegar seasoning for the rice. combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, kombu, sesame seeds and lemon slice in a small saucepan. cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until the sugar and salt are completely dissolved. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into an airtight nonreactive container. Return the kombu and lemon slice to the vinegar, but discard the sesame seeds.

Refrigerate until cool, then cover and let the mixture steep in the fridge for 24 hours. Discard kombu and lemon.

Place the rice in a large bowl and rinse in several changes of water until the water is no longer cloudy. Drain the rice and place it in a rice cooker. add water according to your rice cooker’s instructions and press “cook.” Once the cooking cycle has finished, allow the rice to sit undisturbed for 10 minutes. (alternatively, place the rinsed rice in a medium saucepan with 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and allow rice to stand covered for 10 minutes.)

Gently turn the rice out into a large bowl or a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with half of the vinegar mixture, stirring and breaking up any clumps with a rice paddle or spatula, and continue sprinkling the remaining mixture until the rice is glossy and moist, but not soaking wet. You may not need all of the vinegar mixture. in a medium bowl, combine the tuna, hot sauce, sesame oil and mayonnaise and stir until well combined. Wrap a bamboo sushi mat tightly with plastic wrap. Place a piece of seaweed on the sushi mat with the long end facing you. lightly moisten your fingertips with remaining vinegar mixture or water.

Spread a heaping ½ cup of the rice evenly over the seaweed, all the way to the edges, pressing rice down gently with your fingertips so that it adheres it to the seaweed. Flip the seaweed so that the rice is facedown on the rolling mat.

Spread 2 heaping tablespoons of the tuna mixture and a few strips of cucumber in a horizontal line on the seaweed about ¼ inch from the edge nearest you. Using the rolling mat, lift the seaweed-rice edge nearest you up and over the filling, tucking in the edge as if rolling up a sleeping bag. continue to roll, using the sushi mat, until the roll is a compact cylinder.

Place several slices of sliced avocado in a slightly overlapping line on top of the roll. cover loosely with plastic, lay the sushi mat on top and squeeze the roll gently so that the avocado adheres to the roll. leave plastic wrap on top. transfer the roll, seam side down, to a clean cutting board.

Repeat the process with remaining rice, seaweed, and filling.

Use a sharp knife to cut each roll crosswise into 8 slices.

Remove the plastic wrap, arrange the slices cut side up on a platter and serve with real wasabi and soy sauce.

Notes: You can buy kombu, tamanishiki rice and sashimigrade albacore at asian markets such as Uwajimaya and anzen. Kombu is also at grocery stores with a large selection of asian products, such as New Seasons.

— From Jason Knowles, Bamboo Sushi, Portland

selects /moscato

y

[ This fizzy Italian wine is unserious, but not silly ] ou already know about portland’s bike lanes and breweries, its coffee roasters and bookstores. But what you may not know is that our little city boasts one of the most sophisticated selections of italian wines in the united States.

We’re a town with an abnormally large population of italophiles, direct importers, boutique distributors and cerebral bottle shops.

Which means that when we’re in the mood for italian wines, we needn’t look far. and if we have a super-soft spot, it’s for northern italy. We love piedmont, in the northwest, for its ponderous nebbiolo-based Barolos and Barbarescos. and, within piedmont, we love the province of asti for its flavorful barberas and dolcettos.

By katherine cole / photography By Brian feulner

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paneliStS ted farthing Director of procurement, lot 18, lot18.com Sheri hood owner/winemaker, Sk hood Wine consulting tracy howard associate editor, imbibe magazine, imbibemagazine.com 50

todd Steele proprietor & Wine Director, Metrovino, metrovinopdx.com grant Butler critic-at-large, the oregonian & MiX katherine cole Wine columnist, the oregonian & MiX

Because we cherish and consume these wines, we get benefits. Specifically, the frothy, fun, sweet and low-alcohol moscato d’asti, “the best reason to open a bottle before noon,” as our panelist Sheri hood put it. these are the most unserious wines imaginable from one of the most serious wine regions imaginable. the irony is delicious. case in point: portland wholesaler lemma directly imports the profound reds and quirky whites from the steep, high-elevation estate of g.D. Vajra, whose dolcetto, barbera and Barolo sell for up to $70. and as long as they’re filling a shipping container, they import Vajra’s floral, honeyed moscato d’asti as well.

We’re the richer for it. (the Vajra wasn’t one of our three winners, but it made the final round of our tasting; it sells for approximately $16.50.)

WHAT IS IT, ANYWAY? also known by the fancy french “muscat blanc à petits grains,” moscato bianco may be the oldest wine grape variety on the planet; at the very least, it was the first grape vinified in piedmont. the ancient greeks and romans fermented it, as did the french back when their nation was known as gaul.

Moscato bianco can be bottled in a

number of styles: it can be an unusual, rose-scented dry wine, or a treaclysweet, unctuous dessert wine. Moscato d’asti is in the delicious middle of the spectrum. fragrant with spring blossoms, ripe citrus and stone fruit, it’s gently sweet on the palate, with a lemoncurdlike lushness. and it’s frizzante — that’s italian for “fizzy” — without the harsh acidic force of a highly pressurized champagne. Don’t confuse it with Martini & rossi asti Spumante. that’s another, fully sparkling style of moscato made in the asti region; its bubbles are more pronounced and its sweetness tends to be more one-dimensional than the delicate nuance of moscato d’asti. our one piece of advice with moscato is this: Drink it fresh. tasting these wines blind, the 2008 and 2009 vintages came across as a bit flat and stale; panelist ted farthing deemed one 2008 “a cougar in a miniskirt.” the bright 2010s, on the other hand, were simply joyous.

SO MANY REASONS TO POP THE CORK ambrosial moscato is a wine to sip on those spring evenings when you linger at the table, basking in the season’s slightly longer days. at Metrovino, where we met to taste, proprietor todd Steele told us it’s his standard end-of-the-night pour.

But it’s also delicious alongside

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brunch, whether sweet or savory, thanks to its low alcohol level and light profile. it’s a shoo-in with creamy or tangy cheese — think mascarpone or gorgonzola — or dessert. and did we mention cannoli? and gelato? also, moscato d’asti is festive. try it with tea service, pour it at baby showers, serve it with wedding cake. “it’s a happy wine,” observed panelist tracy howard. “it tastes like it is a lot more expensive than it really is, which makes it a great gift. and at 4 to 6 percent alcohol, at no point is it going to hit you over the head.”

Speaking of numbers, the mantra for this wine should be “sweet 16,” because the majority of the moscatos in this town are priced at or near $16. We didn’t find anything we liked down in the $10 range, but if you’re willing to spend between $15 and $20, you’re sure to find something that tickles your fancy.

While just about every wine we tasted was well-made, we decided to judge these moscato d’astis by fun factor rather than geek quotient. “there is no pretension at all in this whole category,” remarked farthing. “i love it: it’s shameless and indulgent.” So save your deep thinking for nebbiolo, barbera and dolcetto, and simply enjoy the proliferation of moscato d’asti in portland.

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2010 Elio Perrone “Sourgal� Moscato d’Asti ($15.75) the perrone is the standard-bearer for that $15-to-$16 price tag you’ll see on most moscatos in this town. imported by local wholesaler casa Bruno, this perennial portland favorite didn’t disappoint. it was hood’s favorite wine of the tasting; she loved the orange-blossom nose and the creamy mouth feel. We all agreed that this winner displayed a fine combination of complexity and balance, with lush aromatics and notes of citrus (we detected tangerine and Valencia oranges), white pepper and minerality. at the same time, it had all the simple pleasure of a “fruit cocktail,� as farthing pointed out. for grant Butler: “it took me back to the first time i tasted aranciata in italy. i’d love to sit on a back deck with a glass of this, waiting for something to come off the grill.�

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2010 La Spinetta “Biancospino� Moscato d’Asti ($20) the baked-apricot, lemon-cream, grapefruit-rind and ripe-pear character of this abundantly fruity pick made it a good candidate for pouring alongside cheese or something sweet after dinner. or, why not just serve it solo, as a standalone dessert? “it’s got hedonistic sugars,� as todd Steele observed, which meant it wasn’t for everyone. Butler deemed it too sweet for his taste; farthing found its beauty a bit too obvious. it wasn’t too surprising, then, to discover this came from la Spinetta, a well-funded empire of three impressive wineries in piedmont and tuscany. it’s a sweet indulgence: a glamorous moscato from a glamorous producer (a respected producer, too, which made italy’s first single-vineyard moscato back in 1978). “this is a guilty pleasure,� confided howard. “i could drink a bottle all by myself.�

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2010 Cascinetta Vietti Moscato d’Asti ($15.75) Who said moscato had to be a dessert wine? this one made us hungry for dinner. one sip had us salivating for salmon hash, smoked trout, grilled branzino, melon and prosciutto, a salad studded with strawberries, grilled pork, or anything with mango salsa. But then, it could also stand alone as a delicious aperitif. “it’s like a seductress lounging at a palazzo. there is something unmistakably regal and italian about it,â€? declared farthing (after a beat, he added, “i may have swallowed some of it.â€?). We loved its allure — our notes were thick with descriptors like limoncello, rose petals, orchids, honey, grass, linseed oil and herbs. it was no surprise when we unveiled this wine and saw that it came from one of the best family wineries in the Barolo region; we awarded bonus points for the charming label. “great acidity, structure and overall balance,â€? pronounced Steele. “if i were to crown a king, it would be this one.â€? ÂŁ

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good cheese [ Homemade paneer ]

By caroline ford / photography By motoya nakamura

many a fresh cheese has emerged from my kitchen. few things are as easy to make, although i cringe to admit one particularly gnarly case of burnt milk and cursing — an aroma, flavor and cleaning conundrum best avoided. But when things do go smoothly, as they usually do, i love the clean, methodical process and that magical moment when

curd and whey separate. and, of course, i love being able to make delicious, creamy, fresh cheeses for a fraction of the cost of what i’d pay at the store. recently i decided to try my hand at paneer, a traditional indian cheese that’s unaged, acid-set, sturdy and nonmelting — perfect for cooking with. house-made paneer is a staple on

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the menu at the east india co. grill, where it gets marinated and grilled in the tandoor oven, stir-fried with spices, simmered in flavorful curries or even turned into dessert. “if i’m in the kitchen,� says chef pradeep chandrana, “i can make five totally different things out of paneer and none will taste alike.� clearly chandrana is a paneer master, so i asked him for his recipe and tips. turns out it couldn’t be simpler to make, just whole milk simmered on the stove and splashed with vinegar, then the resulting curds strained and briefly pressed. initially i worried because chandrana’s recipe seemed vague. there was none of the careful temperature monitoring and thermometer gazing i was used to. But i patiently stirred and waited, keeping the heat very low to save myself from another scorching incident.

When the milk was foamy and agitating at the brink of boiling, in went the vinegar. much to my delight, the curds formed and separated from the whey, exactly as required. i strained the curd from the whey and almost instinctively added salt, but then i remembered that paneer is a no-saltadded cheese. as the most popular cheese in india, it is a primary source of protein for

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indian people on vegetarian diets. “there is nothing wrong with putting in salt,� chandrana says, “but since i’m from india and it is not traditional there, i don’t add it to my paneer. and when i use it to make a dish, i have the freedom to add as much salt as i like.� i weighted the cheese with a heavy pan to press out as much whey as i could — but not too much. “Weight the cheese no more than 15 minutes,� chandrana advises. “otherwise the moisture will drain too much.�

Sure enough, within 15 minutes i had a sturdy cheese dry enough for frying, grilling, sautĂŠing and simmering. But like any recipe, rules are made to be broken. “i’ve made paneer with licorice tea. Sometimes i flavor it with mint tea,â€? chandrana says. “i don’t cook with it when it is infused, which will kill the taste. i just toss it with lemon juice and olive oil and use it in cold appetizers like tarts and canapĂŠs.â€? my future forays into paneer will likely involve my own addition of salt, pepper, a touch of herbs, or a spice blend. and i’m already devising ways to use it. accessible for beginners and a cinch for old pros, this is a homemade cheese that’s begging for playful experimentation.

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Homemade paneer, step-by-step

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Step 1: heat 1 gallon

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Step 2: reduce heat

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to low, and pour in 50 milliliters of distilled white vinegar (or white wine vinegar).

VISIT OUR NEW WEBSITE‌ Step 3: turn off the heat.

the milk will curdle, creating solid curds and liquid whey. return heat to medium-low and heat the milk for 1 minute to help the curds cluster.

Step 4: Strain the mix-

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ture through a colander lined with several layers of cheesecloth. tie the cheesecloth into a bundle, set a saucepan of water on top to weight it and allow curds to drain for 15 minutes, no more.

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Step 5: after pressing,

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the curds will be a solid mass. place in a bowl or pan of ice water to stop the cooking (you can also cut the block into cubes first). the paneer will be very white and very soft.

Step 6: use right away,

or store it in water in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, replacing the water every other day.

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SE 16th Ave

Sellwood neighborhood

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SE Bybee

Blvd

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Farmhouse Antiques

4 SE Rural St

Sellwood’s favorite mini-mall!

- Vintage jewelry - Hats - Furniture - Cast Iron - Glassware - Pottery - Postcards - Holiday decor – And more!

Always buying - 7 dealers.

Open daily 11-5.

2 SE Knapp St

e ES

S

Madison Park Antiques

SE Rex St

Well-chosen antiques, art and curiosities

SE Milwaukie Ave

SE 13th Ave

lvd dB

oo llw

SE Malden St SE Bidwell St

7805 SE 13th Avenue 503.233.3731

8028 SE 13th Avenue 503.232.6757 4

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CoCo Gets

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Dressed

SE Miller St

6 SE Spokane St

SE Tacoma St

SE 17th Ave

5 1 SE Harney St 1

Wonderful, Thoughtful, affordable, unique gifts for the mothers wives and mother-in-law, vases for spring flowers, fragrances, garden books, glassware and ornamentia! Join us at our new location in Westmoreland right next door to our sister store, CoCo Gets Dressed. Still the same charming shop with many treasures straight from the streets of Paris.

Remember your mom with style.

New spring and summer colors! Sun dresses, T-shirts and capris plus the best Hobo handbag selection in town.

Beautiful linen, cotton, silk and wool in assorted textures and weights.

“CoCo Gets Dressed has clothing that tickles your soul.”

7011 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.5999

7007 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.7777

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Moreland Vision Source

Cravin’ Raven Enriching Sellwood’s status as a healthy-living hub is Cravin’ Raven Organic Bakery, the place that proves you don’t have to use white flour, white sugar, or butter to make delectable treats. Try our healthy and delicious assortment of muffins, cookies, cakes, and assorted treats, all organic and sweetened with agave nectar. Specializing in Gluten-free options. Catering Available.

8339 SE 13th Avenue 503.234.0603 www.cravinraven.com

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You are invited to come and browse in person or online at an art consignment gallery. We have hundreds of pieces of gently used original artwork by listed Oregon artists on display and for sale.

Our inventory changes as we take in new art every day so be sure to bookmark the website and check it often.

Above art by Gregory Grenon.

Wed/Thu/Fri 11-6pm, Sat 10-3pm 7227 SE Milwaukie Ave 503-310-9507

Sellwood Marketplace

Come in for our annual Spring Sale May 1-31. Savings up to 50% off regular prices. American made, hardwood, rocking chairs that are perfect for the porch from $139. Huge selection of Colonial and American Country interiors. Visit our 21 rooms on 2 floors full of great decorating ideas, many you can’t find anywhere else! You’ll find something new each time you visit.

Come check out our exclusive optical gallery featuring hand-painted stain glass eyewear from Studio3 Occhiali Eyewear imported from Italy. We also carry famous designer eyewear such as Gucci, Liz Claiborne, Silhouette, Prodesign, Lafont, Calvin Klien and Sean John, just to name a few. Stop by and check us out!

8203 SE 13th Avenue 503.235.5115 www.americanatheart.us

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Hours: Mon-Fri 8:30 - 5:30

To advertise in Marketplace contact Jeff Brosy at 503.221.8320 or jeffb@sales.oregonian.com

walkabout/montavilla

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ya hala

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[ Popcorn, pie and paint-your-own pottery?

Attractions abound on this stretch of Stark Street ] hroughout the 1990s, there were rumors of revitalization along the stretch of Southeast Stark Street from the base of Mount tabor to the busy thoroughfare of 82nd avenue. But all that talk never amounted to much, and a prime seven-block stretch of retail storefronts sat underutilized and utterly unloved. then little things started happening. in 2000, a lebanese restaurant and international market opened, drawing a steady trickle of food fans away from the pearl District, which was the hot restaurant district at the time. then a pie house and coffee shop moved in, followed later by restaurants like the country cat, which is one of the best american restaurants in the city. clearly, Stark’s gritty days are gone — you have to go to 82nd for that. a mix of businesses — many of them food-focused — invigorate the strip, and Montavilla’s monthly first friday celebrations, featuring special deals, live music and art shows, add fuel to the fire.

By grant Butler / photography By faith cathcart

walkabout / montavilla cont.

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2006, a completely refurbished academy reopened, with three screens devoted to showing second-run movies. no matter what’s playing, the lobby is a marvel, with a Streamline Modernestyle dome that’s been fully restored, and a snack bar selling slices from nearby flying pie pizzeria, sushi, salads and fruit, along with 10 local microbrews. for parents, there’s baby-sitting available for $7.50 per kid before 8 p.m. — so for once you can see a movie that doesn’t have talking animals.

Whether or not you’ve got

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a good place to start any visit to the neighborhood is at 1 The Academy Theater (7818 S.e. Stark St.; 503-252-0500; academytheaterpdx.com), which many credit with the neighborhood’s turnaround. When it opened in 1948, Montavilla was experiencing a post-war building boom, and a generation of neighbors would head here to see John Wayne and Marilyn Monroe pictures. But the singlescreen movie house closed in the 1970s, and the shell was stripped of its seats and screens to make way for the offices of nickel ads. But in

3 the kids in tow, there’s plenty of creative whimsy across the street at 2 Pottery Fun (7821 S.e. Stark St.; 503-253-8070; potteryfunpdx.com), a paint-your-own ceramics shop where you can doll up your own garden gnome or create a serving platter that’s worthy of next thanksgiving’s table. need some liquid inspiration? look for special events, such as a recent margarita night, when customers decorated plates while the tequila flowed. once you’ve indulged your inner picasso, the staff will glaze and kiln-fire your masterpiece for you to pick up later. after painting pottery, it’s time for pie at 3 Bipartisan Cafe (7901 S.e. Stark St.; 503-253-1051; bipartisancafe.com). When you step into this neighborhood hangout, the first thing you notice is all of the political bric-a-brac on the walls, which look like the offices of the Saturday evening post exploded all over them. there are norman

rockwell’s famous “four freedoms” posters, plus ornately framed portraits of america’s lesser-known presidents — James Buchanan and Martin Van Buren never had it so good. then you notice the sea of laptop computers. on a rainy afternoon, 30 to 40 of them may be purring along while their users sip coffee and dig into croissant sandwiches. finally, you spy the pie! a case is loaded with old-fashioned peach, marionberry and apple pies, available by the slice for $3.25 or whole for $16.25 (plus a $2 pie tin deposit). crusts are all homemade, and popular pies have vegan versions available (sweetened with agave nectar instead of honey). there’s nothing food-related about 4 Gifts & Toys Inc. (7940 S.e.

Stark St.; 503-251-7689), unless you’re on the hunt for white elephant gifts to take to a cocktail party. almost everything in this house of Bizarre defies expecta-

6

5 tions: there are rows upon rows of framed “Scarface” posters; eerily creepy paintings of the obama family; Michael Jackson t-shirts; and everything you need for your incomplete shrine to late race car driver Dale earnhardt. there also are stacks of cheap made-in-china plastic toys, which could make silly party favors. for dinner, there are plenty of fun options in addition to the country cat. 5 Ya Hala (8005 S.e. Stark St.; 503-256-4484; yahalarestaurant. com) set Montavilla’s gentrification in motion when it opened here 11 years ago, but the lebanese restaurant is nicer-looking than when it originally opened, with harsh fluorescent lighting tamed and curtains giving the dining room a more elegant feel. and it has expanded into the space next door, offering overflow seating on busy nights, eliminating the long weekend waits that at one time

were a deterrent. What hasn’t changed are the affordable prices.

Most entrees are in the $11-$13 range, though you can make a meal out of one or two of the hot and cold appetizers, which run around $5. can’t decide? the veggie mezza has the best of everything for under $10: plates of tabbouleh, hummus, baba ghanouj, plus falafel, rolled grape leaves and fried cauliflower.

Stop by the restaurant’s store, international food Supply, to pick up Middle eastern staples (including the best pistachios ever) to bring home. farther east, there’s a homier dinner option at 6 Immortal Pie and Larder (8029 S.e.

Stark St.; 971-255-1491; immortalpieandlarder.com), a savory pie house selling individually sized 4-inch crusts filled with things like rosemary-scented lamb, chicken with wild mushroom, and a combo of sausage, kale and onions. there are usually a couple of sweet

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options, too. While your pie is being warmed up, scan the wall of wine, which has a large selection of half-bottles — just the thing when you only want a glass or two. the larder part of the business is clearly represented in the carefully curated pantry staples, including the very best from Steven Smith teamaker, relishes from Sassafras catering, plus spicy sausages from olympic provisions.

With two shops dishing up pie within a block of each other, dessert is a no-brainer. But you’d be remiss if you didn’t at least take something home from 7 Pastrygirl (7919 S.e.

Stark St.; 503-254-5433). Known for picture-perfect, from-scratch, special-occasion cakes, the bakery also has a drool-worthy selection of cakes and tarts available by the slice, plus several varieties of sandwich cookies, such as lavender shortbread with lemon cream. if you’re looking for a great happy

hour, hit 8 The observatory restaurant (8115 S.e. Stark St.; 503-445-6284; theobservatorypdx. com) and its secret, hidden sister bar over and out, accessed through a hallway near the restrooms. except for entrees, it has everything its big sister has, plus pinball, pool and flat-screen tVs. Both offer happy hour daily from 3-6 p.m., and from 10-close on Sundays-thursdays, with addictive oregano-spiced fry bread and parmesan-garlic fries for just $2 each, and a steaming bowl of mussels for $5. unlike some happy hours, which offer cheap bites but full-priced drinks, there’s bargain sipping here, with $3 basic cocktails, a $5 daily cocktail special, and if you’re really pinching pennies, 16-ounce cans of domestic beer for just a buck. as the name implies, the decor sports a celestial theme.

With Montavilla shooting for the stars these days, it seems fitting. £

Montavilla E Burnside St

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Photo by Diana Sell

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Branch and Birdie In need of a gift or special pick me up present? Branch and Birdie is a boutique that can cover all your fanciful desires.

International Food Supply

We offer a carefully curated array of home decor, women’s accessories and children’s items by brands such as Tokyo Milk, Thomas Paul and Voluspa.

Our event space hosts weekly family fun such as children’s yoga and music.

8021 SE Stark Street Portland, OR 503.894.9338 www.branchandbirdie.com

Treat yourself to lunch at our very own Monti’s Cafe, feasting on fresh made soups, salads, sandwiches and baked goods. Enjoy organic coffee & espresso blends from Portland Roasting, a glass of beer, wine or a champagne mimosa!

Distinctive cakes and pastries Creating unique, one of a kind cakes for your special occasion.

Lebanese food combines the sophistication of European cuisines with the excitement of Eastern spices.

Shop, and be inspired!

Open 6 days a week noon-8pm 9pm Fridays and Saturdays Closed Tuesdays

8005 SE Stark Street At the corner of SE Stark and 80th Portland, OR 503.256.9576

7919 SE Stark Street Portland, OR 503.254.5433 pastrygirl.com and facebook

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Spend an afternoon strolling through the absolute best antique mall in Portland. 20,000 square feet filled with over 100 dealer spaces, salvage garden and consignment showroom.

Pastrygirl

Imported Groceries and Spices Fresh ... Exotic ... Authentic ...

4

Home & Garden Show through May 30 This is truly the best way to spend a day.

8600 SE Stark Street Portland, OR 503.256.8600 www.MonticelloAntiques.com

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Bipartisan Cafe

Union Rose Locally made stuff with soul.

Clothing for women, men, kids, Accessories and gifts, too.

7909 SE Stark Street Portland, OR 503.287.4242 www.unionrosepdx.com

With hardwood floors, and a gallery of historically nostalgic decor, the Bipartisan Café recalls a bygone era. Featuring, Stumptown coffee, Sandwiches made to order, soup made from scratch, hand made pies, and live music 7-9pm Fridays.

The Bipartisancafe provides a place for civil discourse with your neighbors.

Where partisans meet for pie.

7901 SE Stark Street Portland, OR 503.253.1051 www.bipartisancafe.com

Montavilla Marketplace

Personal Beast

(formerly Salty’s Dog & Cat Shop) We carry a wide array of food, toys, treats and accessories for your best friend. Come help us celebrate our name change at our Open House May 6 from 4 to 9 p.m. and see why we’re your cat’s & dog’s favorite store!

8119 SE Stark Street Portland, OR 503.445.9449 www.personalbeast.com Fan us on Facebook: Personal Beast

To advertise in Marketplace contact Adam Rice at 503.221.8306 or arice@oregonian.com

pubcrawl

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[ Rare breeds: Exotic new hop varieties infuse local IPAs ]

By Joshua M. Bernstein f oregon had a state beer, it would be the india pale ale. nearly every brewery in the state releases a riff on the bitter, aromatic iPa. and since brewers more or less have access to identical hop breeds (flowery and fragrant Cascade, citrusy amarillo, pinelike Chinook), the beers can seem to coalesce into a piney, citric blur.

But oregon craft brewing doesn’t adhere to the status quo for long. responding to brewers’ desire to create singular quaffs, hop farmers in oregon and Washington, as well as new Zealand, plant thousands of experimental hop breeds annually, most identified by numbers seemingly plucked from a lottery machine. these fledgling varieties are created by crossing existing strains in hopes of augmenting yields, increasing disease resistance or fashioning unique flavors. each year, brewers examine these numbered hop breeds, hoping to answer a single question: Can this hop make a great new beer?

PhotograPh By ross WiLLiaM haMiLton

EXPERIENCE . . .

Photos by: Bob Kimball Tucked away in the heart of Portland, quaint Multnomah Village boasts small town charm and dozens of eclectic shops, boutiques, fine art galleries, spa, wine tasting rooms and top-rated restaurants.

Annastasia Salon | Anne Bocci Boutique & Gallery | Annie Bloom’s Books | Antoinette Antique & Estate Jewelry Birdie’s Teas, Cards & Gifts | Down to Earth Café | Fat City Café | Fibers in Motion | Healthy Pets Northwest Indigo Traders | Jacqueline’s Found & Fabulous | Jules of Morocco Clothing | Key Bank | Knack | Marco’s Café Multnomah Antiques | Multnomah Arts Center | O’Connor’s Restaurant | Otto & Anita’s Schnitzel Haus

The Village in the Heart of Portland multnomahvillage.org

Peggy Sunday’s | SAID Interiors | Sip D’Vine | Soleil Medical Spa | Sweets, Etc. | Switch Shoes & Clothing The Jealous Gardener | The Village Hut | Thinker Toys | Topanien Gifts | Village Beads | Village Frame & Gallery

pubcrawlcont. often, the answer is no, but every blue moon a hop shows promise. When this happens, the hop is named, it graduates from farm field to brew kettle and the experimentation starts. Lately, several new hop varieties have wound their way into local iPas, bestowing them with curiously appealing notes of tropical fruit, berries or white wine that helps set them apart from the bitter pack. one such hop breed is Citra, which first caught the eye — and nose — of Larry sidor, the brewmaster of Deschutes Brewery, more than five years ago. at the time, sidor and a farmer were strolling through an experimental hop yard in Washington, checking out the aromas of various hops.

Variety number 394 stopped sidor short. “it had so much citrus and grapefruit without a lot of sulfur compounds,� he says. “i thought, ‘yeah, this is definitely a possibility for Deschutes.’ � over the next three years, sidor brewed test batches with hop 394, growing to love its beguiling blend of citrus and tropical fruits such as mango and papaya. “it was absolutely a home run,� sidor says. eventually, Deschutes, along with sierra nevada and Widmer Brothers, committed to growing several acres of what was christened Citra. it helped drive the flavor of Deschutes’ hop in the Dark, an obsidian-tinted black iPa (or Cascadian dark ale, as the style is also known), and last year’s version of the hop henge experimental iPa. Citra quickly has become a novel component of some of the state’s most exciting new brews. Cascade Brewing created the balanced, brightly citric and fruity Karma Citra (also incorporating the lemony, littleseen sorachi ace hop). instead of using Citra as an accent, the Prodigal son Brewery and Pub in Pendleton uses Citra as the only hop in its summery splendor in the glass iPa. “What really interests me is

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Over the next three years, Sidor brewed test batches with hop 394, growing to love its beguiling blend of citrus and tropical fruits such as mango and papaya. “It was absolutely a home run,� Sidor says. how quickly and drastically the flavor evolves with Citra,� says head brewer Brian harder. “When it’s fresh out of the fermenter, Citra gives off waves of tropical fruit aromas. in a matter of weeks, these flavors grow more citruslike and it becomes clear how this hop got its name.�

While Widmer Brothers uses Citra in its easy-sipping Citra Blonde summer ale (which, until recently, was known as sunburn summer Brew), and the smooth and fragrant X-114 india Pale (part of the rotator iPa series), the brewery also has cottoned to another singular hop breed. hailing from new Zealand, the nelson sauvin hop (Nelson refers to a region in central new Zealand, while Sauvin is shorthand for the grape variety sauvignon blanc) has a gooseberrylike quality verging on litchi or passion fruit that recalls white wine.

Brewmaster rob Widmer first tinkered with nelson sauvin several years ago, using it in the Full nelson imperial iPa released for the 2008 oregon Brewers Festival. though Full nelson was a one-off, his workers’ rabid response forced the brewer to rethink his stance. “if a beer becomes an employee favorite, then we perk up,�

Widmer says. “and Full nelson was definitely an employee favorite.�

in early 2010, Full nelson was reformulated and formally released as Deadlift imperial iPa. recently renamed nelson imperial iPa, it’s a departure from the “tongue-scrapers,� as Widmer dubs them, dominating the double iPa sector. “We wanted to have a more balanced imperial iPa,� he says of his surprisingly nimble, easy-drinking ale. With nelson sauvin, “we could do our own unique interpretation of the style.�

Widmer also uses the hop in his Drifter Pale ale.

While Citra and nelson sauvin are starring in local iPas, their success is the exception to the norm. “each year, we have between 20,000 to 50,000 genotype seedlings as the foundation of our program,� says Jason Perrault, the vice president of research and development for Washington state-based select Botanicals group, which helped devise Citra. “Whenever we develop a variety, we have a minimum of 10 years in development,� he says, noting that Citra was first planted in 1990.

Part of the delay is due to garnering enough acceptance for commercialization. “to go forward, you need to have several brewers that are really interested in a hop,â€? says Perrault. “in the past, there have been hops we thought had potential that didn’t take off.â€? it’s tricky, he adds, because “you’re looking for a hop that may be popular 10 years from now. you’re never sure which hops will be popular in the future.â€? ÂŁ

ďƒ onlInE EXtra: See our top 5 national Ipas using these new hops at mIXpdX.com

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eat here/redmond

[ A climbing mecca’s dining scene scales new heights ]

By Ashley GArtlAnd / photoGrAphy By jAmie frAncis

one street down cafe

on my first trip to redmond, i slept in a crowded tent and ate dinner at a greasy-spoon mexican joint that bordered smith rock state park. i was traveling with rock climbers who cared more about consuming sufficient calories than dining on decent food. not surprisingly, the meal was not memorable — save the fact that it left my stomach aching all night. outdoor pursuits of the hiking, fishing and rock climbing variety have long been redmond’s main draw. the food scene, however, offered outdoor enthusiasts mediocre eats to fuel their hikes and climbs — until now. in the years since my first visit, redmond has welcomed a community wine bar, a modern latin fusion restaurant and a handsome steakhouse to the city’s downtown core. even nearby terrebonne got an upgrade when two rock climbers decided to feed their community by opening an upscale-casual restaurant on the outskirts of smith rock. these days, the food is much more than just fuel.

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eat here / redmond cont.

diego’s spirited Kitchen

Brickhouse

66 start your central oregon vacation with a leisurely walk through downtown redmond, where a handful of amicable antique shop owners fill their charming stores with everything from brass bed frames to dining room chairs. Browse the shops for an hour or two, and when your feet get tired of shopping, stop for lunch at Diego’s Spirited Kitchen (447 S.W. Sixth St.; 541-316-2002). those visiting redmond in the summer will find the narrow restaurant’s dark, subdued ambience offers a welcome respite from the midday heat that blankets downtown by noon each day.

A well-stocked bar and a cocktail list that rivals the size of the dinner menu suggest that diego’s will be packed with imbibers by late afternoon. At lunch, however, the crowd proves more a mix of business professionals and local lunch-goers seeking southwest cobb salads, crisp coconut shrimp tacos and carne asada enchiladas sided

with green rice and refried black beans. the latin-influenced menu can feel a bit unfocused in spots (osso buco? really?), but diners who stick with the flavorful, latin-leaning cuisine will leave satisfied. you can while away the afternoon at a local swimming hole or along a riverside trail, then return downtown for a progressive dinner. Begin the evening with a pre-dinner wine flight and nibble at Avery’s Wine Bar (427 S.W. Eighth St.; 541-504-7111). mother-daughter team mary thompson and Kelly ramey opened the unpretentious wine bar near centennial park in october 2007. inside a refurbished cottage, they manage a wine selection of more than 100 bottles ranging from oregon to new Zealand. enjoy a glass of wine and plate of bruschetta on the front porch before settling your tab and heading to your next destination.

Walk the few blocks back to southwest sixth street and duck into

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one street down cafe Brickhouse (412 S.W. Sixth St.; 541-526-1782) in time for a steakhouse supper. exposed brick walls, pendant lights and a polished bar backed with blue lights give the space a contemporary feel that befits the modern menu. steakhouse favorites (a wedge salad and blackened rib eye) and a wide range of seafood dishes (seared ahi and seafood fettuccine) keep diners well fed with generous portions. to complement the cuisine, owner jeff porad has amassed a wine collection numbering more than 500 bottles (and snagged a Wine spectator award of excellence along the way).

Brickhouse serves desserts such as chocolate lava cake and seasonal cobbler. But if you prefer a dose of nostalgia at evening’s end, hang a left outside the steakhouse and

wander over to Goody’s (515 S.W. Sixth St.; 541-923-1807) candy shop and soda fountain. slide onto a swiveling stool at the ice cream counter and place an order for a frothy milkshake or a single-scoop cone to finish your progressive meal on an old-fashioned note. save for a few drive-through espresso stands, breakfast options are still slim in redmond. fortunately, there’s a familyrun cafe serving from-scratch breakfasts in a craftsman home a few blocks from downtown. At One Street Down Cafe (124 S.W. Seventh St.; 541-647-2341), wrought-iron tables and a grassy front lawn set an inviting cafe scene. But the cafe’s real draw is a homestyle menu filled with hearty breakfast standbys and lunchtime staples. fuel up for a day

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of active pursuits with a short stack of buttermilk pancakes, a tender fruit turnover or a massive platter of southernstyle biscuits and gravy. take some time away from the dining table to explore smith rock, then wrap up your trip with lunch at Terrebonne Depot (400 N.W. Smith Rock Way; 541-548-5030). rock climbers Kristin and ian yurdin opened their comfortable restaurant in a centuryold terrebonne train depot

after sensing a need for good eats near the park. since 2006, the couple has provided a pit stop for tired climbers with a menu marked by grilled steak sandwiches, caramelized onion burgers and ahi fish tacos drizzled with jalapeĂąo-honeylime sauce. A seat on the depotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sunny porch, a cooling mojito and a focaccia sandwich stuffed with grilled salmon were all the proof i needed that redmondâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining scene has stepped up.

in BetWeen eAts Smith Rock State Park just a few miles from redmond, this nationally renowned climbing destination boasts thousands of rock climbing routes. nonclimbers also can enjoy the park for its miles of hiking and mountain biking trails, ample wildlife viewing opportunities and campgrounds for the tent-inclined. smithrock.com or oregonstateparks.org Red Point Climbers Supply Whether you need gear or referrals for an instructor

to help you make your first ascent, the staff at this terrebonne climbing shop will meet your needs. redpointclimbing.com Southwest Sixth Street downtownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main drag has plenty of charm, with its brick storefronts and old-fashioned town arch. Worth checking out are the handful of antique shops that line the block and deal in everything from gently worn china hutches to colorful fiestaware. ÂŁ

scene Our picks for what to eat where

Reviews

st. Jack Little Bird iN THe MOOD

Positively Portland On the cheap close-In southeast HigH Five

Gluten-Free Goodness

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Chef Aaron Barnett crafts classic French fare at St. Jack, p70 PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA

In the mOOd

recentLy revIewed BIstrOs

Positively Portland

St. Jack

70

From my window-side table at St. Jack restaurant, on my fifth visit, I now have no doubt the 50-seat, three-room neighborhood French bistro has been discovered. Suits mix with hoodies, matrons with mommies, and there’vs plenty for everyone to enjoy.

Ensconced at one corner of Southeast 21st Avenue and Clinton Street, an intersection that serves as one of Portland hipsterdom’s pulmonary arteries, St. Jack offers diners great views of cyclists blasting through stop signs and strolling couples decked out in their finest thrift-store finds. Though the street scene has its blandishments, the main draws are the St. Jack kitchen and the achievements of chef Aaron Barnett, emerging pastry whiz Alissa Rozos and the whole pink-Tshirt-clad back-of-the-house crew.

Barnett brings his multicultural Canadian roots, experience as chef in other Portland restaurants and an infectious fascination with rustic French countryside cooking.

For inspiration Barnett has been poring through vintage cookbooks spanning the period from the late 19th century Belle Époque up to the 1970s outbreak of nouvelle cuisine. The most dazzling results have been offered as specials: pork trotters stuffed with sweetbreads and chicken mousseline, painstakingly prepared over three days; rich, but not iron-y beef heart, cut into small squares and served with fries and a splendid béarnaise sauce accented with shallots and tarragon; and an appetizer of breaded and fried tête de cochon, a thick-sliced round of slow-roasted meat gleaned from a pig’s head, that compensates in porcine purity for the fattiness that might put off the non-porkobsessed.

The regular dinner menu offers a compact but shifting selection of bistro standards that, save for painfully oversalted fries on one visit, are consistently very good to excellent. The onglet (hanger) steak frites is fine if unexciting as is the

Distinct restaurants that capture the essence of the city

Little Bird salade lyonnaise, with its traditional ensemble of frisée, lardons and poached egg. An elevated option is the gratin d’escargots, a puff-pastry potpie liberally populated with delightful little gastropods and mushrooms in a not-too-rich gravy.

Main course pricing, with tops mostly in the midteens, is fair for the portion size.

To fully realize St. Jack’s virtues, a visit early in the day, when Ms. Rozos holds sway, is essential. Have a preliminary sandwich or salad if you must, but the pastries are worth the drive all the way across town.

Top of the heap: canelés, 2-inch-tall vanilla- and rum-flavored cylinders resembling micro Bundt cakes, but with a caramelized crackly/chewy crust and a crumb that mimics barely set custard. The most alluring pastries are gone after the noon hour, but dinner guests can swoon over an order of baked-to-order, shell-shaped madeleines among a tight list of dessert options.

With behind-the-scenes support from co-venturer Kurt Huffman, who spent several years living and working in France before moving back to Portland, and behind-the-bar stylings of veteran tender Kyle Webster, St. Jack also bustles well into the evening.

— MICHAEL C. ZUSMAN

2039 S.E. Clinton St.; 503-360-1781; stjackpdx.com

Little Bird The deepest joys of Little Bird are the things you could order without looking at the menu, the dishes that have to be there because it’s

a bistro. But they don’t have to be done this well. Consider the duck confit — sweet and meaty, the fat not so much rendered as compressed, deepening and enriching everything around it. That one dish confirms Little Bird’s bistro bona fides like a stamp on a hand.

You can get some of the same impact from coq au vin, offering chicken in an intense braise, cut with pearl onions and chunks of salt pork and a little sweetness from the skin. A dish of hanger steak frites is just as tempting. The classic French cut requires more energetic chewing but repays with deep mineral flavor. Perched atop the steak are two onion rings with a tweak of sweetness from pickled onion, a demonstration of how Little Bird puts its own spin on everything.

Entrees top out at a reasonable $23, leaving you room in your budget to stop by the appetizers. The escargots are lovely, tender and nestled in a gentle garlic sauce rather than the typical sharper garlic butter.

Pork terrine slices span a variety of textures — meaty and fatty and chewy — with an assertive flavor.

True to its bistro theme, Little Bird is crowded and loud, with tables as close together as the jambon et gruyère on the baguette sandwich (which, by the way, is probably the best $7 ham-and-cheese sandwich in Portland). But unlike most traditional French bistros, the service here is much friendlier. — DAvID SARASOHN

219 S.W. Sixth Ave.; 503-688-5952; littlebirdbistro.com.

PHOTOGRAPH BY RANDY L. RASMUSSEN

Castagna 1752 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.

503-231-7373 castagnarestaurant.com Young chef Matt Lightner has reinvented this Southeast standardbearer. Every plate is completely different, built on unexpected ingredients (amaranth, hibiscus, sweet woodruff) in unexpected forms (painted onto plates, frozen into powders). Connections to the explosively fertile land of the Northwest drive Lightner’s cuisine, as the chef gets his inspiration, he says, from his hikes, and regularly forages for his ingredients along the way.

All this intricate calculation is expressed in the Castagna menu, arranged into four groups, which can be ordered individually or in a $55 four-course meal. Originally, diners ordered hesitantly, reluctant to fully commit to baked live scallop with marrow, salicornia (sometimes called sea beans) and yeast crust. Lately, most folks are smart, and adventurous, enough to order the full meal.

Le Pigeon 738 E. Burnside St. 503-546-8796 lepigeon.com A place this good can make you desperately want a table. But here, you don’t want a table (you’d have to sit with other people); you want a seat at the counter, to watch Gabriel Rucker, four-time James Beard nominee for best chef in the country under 30, do amazing things in a space the size of a studio apartment kitchen. It helps that

COMPILED BY: Grant Butler CONTRIBUTORS: Grant Butler Kathy Hinson Brent Hunsberger Seth Lorinczi Kyle O’Brien David Sarasohn S.j. Sebellin-Ross Jake Ten Pas Michael C. Zusman

scene you get to eat the creations afterward. Ruckerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bold creativity has been chronicled everywhere from Gourmet to People magazine, and yet it can still be striking in a dish such as duck breast with chestnuts and duck crepes â&#x20AC;&#x201D; especially after youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve watched it assembled inches from your salivary glands. Rucker has a fondness for internal and peripheral ingredients â&#x20AC;&#x201D; foie gras (which surfaces even in desserts) and pigâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s feet â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and can make the unexpected seem unmissable. Spaghettini with lamb belly?

Why, of course. At the counter or the tables, this is not a place for stretching out, but the almost giddy buzz of the place and the resolutely cheerful service make Le Pigeon warm and exciting even if confined. And, of course, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing confined about Ruckerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imagination.

Lincoln 3808 N. Williams Ave., No. 127 503-288-6200 lincolnpdx.com Anchoring the restaurant row along North Williams Avenue between Beech and Failing streets, Lincoln delivers a solid and creative slate of seasonally rotating dishes at a good value for neighbors who arrive by auto, bicycle and on foot. Chef Jenn Louis runs the kitchen while husband David Welch makes sure everyone entering the tall-ceilinged dining room is greeted, seated and

content. The most inviting dishes tend to be from the menuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Starter section, such as a recent tomato, pimenton and rosemary soup garnished with local shrimp ($8).

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the dishes that, for good reason, stay on the menu whatever the season, including baked eggs with briny green olives, bread crumbs and a touch of cream ($8), and hanger steak with blue cheese butter and onion rings ($20).

Navarre 10 N.E. 28th St. 503-232-3555 navarreportland.blogspot.com Navarre hews well to its simple, unpretentious, Europeanleaning small-plate dishes and deep yet accessible wine list. No tablecloths or edifice-like entrees. Just handmade white-oak tables, jars of pickled veggies on the shelves and unadulterated flavors. Specials are tempting, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t pass up the usuals.

Cold albacore tuna is poached by pouring hot olive oil infused with onions, citrus and bay leaves.

Trout baked in parchment paper is marinated only in rosemary, oil, salt and black pepper â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all it needs. Prices are attractive, with most tapas dishes running $4 to $8, and nearly all wine can be ordered by the glass for as little as $5.

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On the cheap Places to go when you’re low on dough.

Ned Ludd Ned Ludd 3925 N.E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.

503-288-6900 nedluddpdx.com It takes pluck to eschew the vast repertoire of modern kitchen technology and cook all your hot dishes in a wood-fired oven, honoring the memory of a legendary anti-industrialist.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BRIAN FEULNER

Owner Jason French has plenty of pluck. The primary outputs of the oven’s fire are found in the “warmbits” and “plats” sections of the menu, which translate to hot appetizers and entrees, respectively. French’s butchery background surfaces with a fine charcuterie board ($15), though his interest in vegetables means there are plenty of menu options for vegetarians and vegans.

Breken 1800 N.W. 16th Ave. 503-841-6359 brekenkitchen.com Located in the no-man’s-corner of Portland under the shadow of the Fremont Bridge on-ramp, Breken is an airy, triangle-shaped place with old wood plank floors below, a crisscross of wood beams above, and swaths of exposed brick and tall windows adorning walls. Open primarily for breakfast and lunch, it is the stomping ground of nearby office workers. The food is typical office fare: bagels and pastries, soups, salads and sandwiches, dished out in atypically generous portions. The plump turkey sandwich ($8.95) is slice after slice after slice of white turkey meat topped with a thick hunk of avocado, a lettuce leaf or two, and strips of salty, fatty bacon.

It’s served with a side green salad coated with a mildly vinegary vinaigrette. The roasted shiitake sandwich ($8.95), also with a side green salad, is a thinner, richer-tasting sandwich with its spread of earthy mushrooms and sweet onions tinged with sage and rosemary trapped between two slices of bread flavored with a thin smear of creamy brie. gusto Bistro & Marketplace 467 Third St., Lake Oswego 503-635-3151 gustomarketplace.com In Italian, the word “gusto” means “taste.” In English, though, it’s more about squeezing out the very zest of life. Both interpretations apply at this Lake Oswego bistro and gourmet shop, where you can find an array of salads, hot and cold sandwiches, and homemade, seasonal soups. Portions are generous, so lighter appetites should gravitate toward the $4 small salads, such as mesclun with figs, warm peaches and prosciutto or

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scene a chopped salad with salami and garbanzos. If you can’t decide, sample three salads for $9. Sandwiches come either whole ($8) or by the half ($5); there’s a warm sandwich stuffed with apple slices and Asiago and manchego cheeses, or a classic cold Italian with prosciutto, fontina and Genoa salami. It’s hard to beat the $8 daily special, which includes dishes such as a chanterelle mushroom quiche or a Moorish chicken pie (phyllo sheets stuffed with diced chicken, toasted pine nuts and raisins), plus a green salad. gyro House Mediterranean grill 530 S.W. 205th Ave., No. 700, Beaverton 503-690-1700 Everything served here is homemade. Well, everything except for the pita bread, which is kind of important when the word Gyro is right there in the name of your restaurant. Fortunately for Gyro House, the rest of its ingredients are of a high enough

quality that, if you have any sympathy in your heart, you’ll forgive them this rather large transgression. Large spits of lamb and beef spin vertically behind the counter like meat tornadoes, which is one of the first things you should look for at any reputable gyro joint. The Gyro sandwiches and wraps ($5.99 to $7.99) are piled high with crisp lettuce, ripe tomatoes, pickles, onions and your choice of tzatziki or spicy garlic sauce. The Kafta — a spiced ground beef mixture — is moist and bursting with a sweet cinnamon flavor that goes well with the zing of the sauce.

Homegrown smoker Southwest Fourth Avenue and College Street homegrownsmoker.wordpress.com All across America, there are different styles of barbecue, with aficionados falling into different camps, depending on things such as dry rubs and the sweetness of sauces. And while most barbecue centers on meat, this spunky, family-run barbecue cart

BE PART OF THE story The artist quick draw features 18 artists working in

mediums of oil, pastel and watercolors. Artists include local favorites Romona Youngquist, Michael Orwick, Shannon Ray, Susan Day and more. The intimate setting allows guests to see artwork created magically before your eyes. Engage with the artists while they create an artistic masterpiece.

Following the quick draw hour you will be escorted to the beautiful Coppergold Ballroom where you will enjoy a magical four course dinner prepared by four local chefs including Jory Restaurants’ Sunny Jin. The executive chefs have paired their courses with four local wineries’ special selection of Oregon Wine.

The night culminates with a live auction of the masterfully created art pieces.

A portion of the night’s proceeds benefit the Oregon Special Olympics.

near the Portland State University campus proves that vegans can have their smoky ’cue, too. Instead of meat, soy curls, tempeh and tofu are the protein stars, dressed up with homemade sauces and served with side dishes rooted in the traditions of the Deep South, such as stewed greens, baked beans, sweet potato fries and cornbread. The menu’s star is a slowsmoked soy curl sandwich ($7), a riff on Carolina-style pulled pork, smothered with tangy barbecue sauce and topped with tangy slaw, with your choice of side. Not in the mood for barbecue? There’s a hefty order of gluten-free nachos ($4), with a mound of tortilla chips topped with baked beans and a nondairy cheese sauce.

Pho Nam 2020 N.E. Cornell Road, Suite A, Hillsboro 503-681-8005 The Hillsboro airport is just across the way, and the vietnamese and Thai food at Pho Nam soars with delicious,

heady bowls of noodle soup and layered spices. Housed in a blah strip mall that holds a handful of restaurants and shops, Pho Nam doesn’t look like much from the outside, or inside for that matter, but the place packs in the local tech and business people at lunchtime for affordable, flavorful Southeast Asian cuisine. Pho is the focus, with 14 varieties — 11 beef, two pork and one chicken ($6$7). Big bowls of beef noodle soup come to the table, steaming with an aromatic broth of spice and star anise.

The richness of the broth is highlighted by thin strips of flank steak, eye round steak, perfectly tender tendon and tripe, and chewy meatballs in the signature soup, Pho Nam Dac Biet ($7). Also on the menu: five rice dishes and five noodle dishes ($6.50-$8).

Get mOre OF the POrtLand scene, at mIxPdx.cOm

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FRIDAY, May 20th, 2011

6pm THE ALLISON INN & SPA Purchase Your Tickets Today!

Tickets $125 • Patron Table of 8 • $1000 www.TrilogyNewberg.com or 503.538.2014 The Allison Inn & Spa 2525 Allison Lane • Newberg, Oregon

Please note: Event is 21 and over

Oregon City neighborhood Willamette River

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Welcome Downtown

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TOM

BUSCH HOME FURNISHINGS

Historic Oregon City is a great place to shop, dine and visit.

Serving Oregon City for over 126 years!

Consistently popular since opening in August of 2007, our family owned and operated restaurant provides the highest quality pizza, panini, salads, and dinner entrees using organic meats & produce with an extensive and affordable wine and beer selection. The dining ambiance is pleasantly casual with seating available in an inviting and comfortable setting.

804 Main Street Oregon City, OR 503.656.2621 www.oregoncityfurniture.com

701 Main Street Oregon City, OR 503.594.0601 www.mi-famiglia.com

First Fridays Celebrate Commerce and Culture on the First Friday of the month throughout summer. Downtown is alive with great restaurants, shops, artists, and music street side.

May - Oct

5 to 8 pm

8th Street Farmers Market Join us at the downtown market for live music, great food, and 20-25 local artisan food vendors every Wednesday.

June 1st - Oct 12th 3 to 7 pm First City Celebration Celebrate the identity and heritage of Oregon’s First City at the First City Celebration an Art, Wine, Beer and Music festival on Main Street. Last year’s event attracted over 3,000 visitors.

July 30th 11 am to 9 pm Oregon City Antique Fair Oregon City’s Chamber of Commerce is pleased to present the 16th annual open air antique fair welcoming to downtown more than 80 vendors with antiques, collectables and memorabilia.

August 28th 8 am to 4 pm Downtown Car Show Main Street will be bumper-to-bumper with more than 250 cars, motorcycles and trucks and more than 3,000 visitors for this special event.

Sept 17th 7 am to 4 pm Downtown’s events are free and open to the public. Parking is free and convenient on festival days. Let’s meet on Main Street for a summer of fun in Oregon City.

Visit http://downtownoregoncity.org/ to learn more and sign up for email updates.

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Wrightberry Cakes & Cupcakes Cakes for every occasion!

• Wedding Cakes • Occasion Cakes • Cupcakes Wrightberry’s Cakes are moist and delicious and we offer a wide variety of cake shapes, flavors and fillings to select from.

820 Main Street, Suite C Oregon City 503.344.4946 wrightberrywedding cakes.com 5

w in e s h o p - w i n e b a r local art live music wine tastings small plates desserts Winestock is a combination wine shop + wine bar, celebrating 5 years in OC. Weekly wine tastings and 25+ wines by the glass pair beautifully with small plates including Jamon Iberico, stuffed peppers, artisan cheeses and chocolate cake. At Winestock, it's about the wine experience. A beautiful combination of wine at the bar or a selection of wines for drinking at home.

Open at 3pm, Monday thru Saturday 820 Main Street, Suite B, Oregon City, OR 503.636.WINE (9463) www.winestockoc.com

Oregon City Marketplace

Cypress Restaurant & Bar Experience something different in Oregon City! With an eclectic menu of Greek, Lebanese and Indian food, Cypress offers exotic cuisine and specialty martinis at exceptional prices. Great ambience & casual elegance! Our Oasis Room offers an intimate space for private parties, rehearsal dinners and corporate meetings. Catering available.

Mon-Thurs 11 am - 9 pm Fri. 11 am - 10 pm, Sat. 5 pm - 10 pm 820 Main Street, Suite D, Oregon City, OR 503 387-5914 cypressoregoncity.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Maria Price at 503.294.4126 or mprice@oregonian.com

scene

neIGhBOrhOOd FavOrItes / cLOse-In sOUtheast Bar Avignon: In a city of aspiring wine bars, this one stands out for a broad and interesting wine selection, many by the glass, and features a mix of trustworthy classics and discoveries. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfect with the finger foods and charcuterie that make up the menu. (2138 S.E. Division St.; 503-517-0808; baravignon.com) Beaker & Flask: This is more than a classy bar. The serious menu and accomplished American cooking have accents from France, Spain and Italy. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a touch of daring about the dishes from talented Ben Bettinger. (727 S.E. Washington St.; 503-235-8180; beakerandflask.com) Biwa: This is the perfect place for discovering small-plate Asian pub grub, from delectable deep-fried kimchi to slurpy bowls of ramen. (215 S.E. Ninth Ave.; 503-239-8830; biwarestaurant.com)

Bunk sandwiches: This lowkey sandwich shop sets the bar high, with seasonal ingredients heaped on bread with layers of imagination, craft and quality.

The simple fried egg breakfast sandwich is pure perfection.

(621 S.E. Morrison St.; 503-4779515; bunksandwiches.com) Cafe Castagna: This casual sibling to the upscale restaurant next door excels at delicious, classic foods with a Euro touch â&#x20AC;&#x201D; roast chicken, beef daube, thin-crust pizzas. It also has one of the best burgers in town.

(1758 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503-231-9959; castagnarestaurant.com) Clarklewis: The seasonal, locally focused menu is a dependable source of sly, steady satisfaction. Pastas are inventive and fresh, meats come with an aura of smoke from the wood-fired oven, and flavors in

general run deliciously strong.

(1001 S.E. Water Ave.; 503-2352294; clarklewispdx.com) iorio: Handmade ravioli and gnocchi, local and organic meats, plus a kids menu with real food, not carnival fare, make this comfortable Italian restaurant a neighborhood favorite. (912 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503-445-4716; ioriorestaurant.com) Los gorditos Restaurant: vegan nachos get pizazz from soy chorizo, and the plump soycurl tacos are deeply satisfying.

(1212 S.E. Division St.; 503-4456289; losgorditospdx.com) Meat Cheese Bread: Carefully crafted sandwiches and salads are stars at this small diner/art gallery. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the Cuban pulled pork with hints of orange plus tasty slaw. (1406 S.E. Stark St.; 503-234-1700; meatcheesebread.com)

Nostrana: Cathy Whimsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cooking is on a par with some of the best of Tuscany: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d find at the heartiest country tables, or in Nonnaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen. The wood-fired oven and a huge pile of logs are good signs, contributing to the warm, vibrant atmosphere. (1401 S.E. Morrison St.; 503-234-2427; nostrana.com) Olympic Provisions: At first glance this restaurant is all about home-cured meats. Except that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really about a lot more: small, reasonably priced dishes, impressive creativity with vegetables, and a surprisingly extensive wine and beverage list. (107 S.E. Washington St.; 503-954-3663; olympicprovisions.com) simpatica Dining Hall: Themes for the rollicking Friday and Saturday supper-club dinners run from all-American â&#x20AC;&#x201D; cheeseburgers, fries and hot-fudge sundaes â&#x20AC;&#x201D; to

Spanish regional. Typically priced $30-$40 for several courses, they are a fine deal.

(828 S.E. Ash St.; 503-235-1600; simpaticacatering.com) slow Bar: Sleek, retro-esque stylings, punky attitude, excellent cocktails and a showstopping burger. Add a killer jukebox and you have all the makings for one heck of a lost weekend. Oh, and the kitchen stays open until 1:30 a.m. (533 S.E. Grand Ave.; 503-230-7767; slowbar.net) vindalho: If your knowledge of Indian cuisine begins and ends with dreary buffet steam tables, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to discover a fresh take on one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tastiest cuisines. Most dishes pop with flavor and texture, from the crispy pappadams to fiery braised pork shoulder. (2038 S.E. Clinton St.; 503-467-4550; vindalho.com)

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1722 SW HIGHWAY 18, SUITE C MCMINNVILLE, OR 97128 (503) 737-9703 todd@biggiohamina.com

Gone are the days when even the thought of eating a gluten-free dessert left a bad taste in your mouth. Portland now boasts a bevy of renegade bakers creating everything from tart shells to cream puffs, sans gluten. We happily munched our way through the best of what the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dedicated gluten-free bakeries have to offer and came up with five must-eat treats, from brunchready pastries to coffee-break cookies that are so good even the wheat-tolerant will be asking for more. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; LAURA B. RUSSELL

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Scottish Public House â&#x20AC;˘ Portlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest selection of single malt whiskies â&#x20AC;˘ Traditional Scottish fare including unforgettable ďŹ sh & chips â&#x20AC;˘ Meet friends for a pint in one of our cozy rooms 201 S. 2nd St. @ Hwy 99E,

Oregon City, OR 97045

503-723-6789 www.highlandstillhouse.com

Angel rolls at Crave Bake shop: As though cinnamon rolls, nutmeglaced doughnuts and stellar cupcakes arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t enough to lure you to Craveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Lake Oswego digs, set to open early this month, one bite of the angel roll (above) will make you a dedicated regular. The gooey treat combines house-made raspberry jam rolled up in sweet dough, enriched with a cream cheese center and glazed with orange frosting. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pure finger-licking decadence.

460 Fifth St., Lake Oswego; cravebakeshop.com Cowgirl cookie at Petuniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pies and Pastries: Strolling through the farmers market, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be rightly drawn to a slice of bumbleberry pie or Petuniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature peanut butter crispy bar, but the innocent looking cowgirl cookie is the sweet to beat. Imagine your favorite cookie

PHOTOGRAPH BY RANDY L. RASMUSSEN

ingredients â&#x20AC;&#x201D; chocolate chips, peanut butter, gluten-free oats, pecans and cinnamon â&#x20AC;&#x201D; baked into one clever creation. And like all of Petuniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gluten-free wares, the cowgirl cookie is vegan as well.

Available at PSU Farmers Market, Whole Foods, Ruby Jewel Scoop Shop, Cloud Seven Cafe, Mississippi Pizza Pub, and Seven Virtues Cafe, or through petuniaspiesandpastries.com Apple coffeecake at gluten Free gem: Think of a great, big bake sale filled with home-style goods like spiced pumpkin bars and rich espresso brownies and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got Gluten Free Gem (formerly CCP).

The apple coffeecake â&#x20AC;&#x201D; cubes of apple suspended in a moist cake and sprinkled with a cinnamony crumb topping â&#x20AC;&#x201D; brings home the blue ribbon for crowd favorite. Try it with afternoon coffee or as an indulgent breakfast.

265 N. Hancock St., #105, 503-2881508; glutenfreegem.com. Or find the products at New Seasons, Elephants

Deli, Fresh Pot and Stumptown cafes.

Cream puffs at Dessert Labs: At first bite, the light, airy pastry of these generously sized cream puffs will capture your attention; dig a little deeper and the luscious cream center seals the deal. Filled with sweet cream and vanilla, vanilla chai or chocolate mousse (and sometimes delightfully showered with chocolate shavings), these nuggets of goodness will transport you to a special place.

1902 N.W. 24th Ave., 503-453-5546; thedessertlabs.typepad.com (Open on Saturday afternoons and by appointment). savory scones at New Cascadia Traditional: Stroll into this bustling Southeast Portland bakery for a tasty breakfast pastry, or lunch of homemade pizza, quiche and sandwiches. For a wallop of flavor, though, you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go wrong with the buttery, flaky, savory scones. Look for a recent combination of cheddar and dill, which proved exceptional.

1700 S.E. Sixth Ave., 503-546-4901; newcascadiatraditional.com Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s note: Since these bakeries are small, independent operations, be sure to call or check their websites for store hours and availability before heading out. ÂŁ

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