August/September g p 09 Portland’s Magazine of Food + Drink
Find the dreamiest picnic spots Supremely summery Oregon pinot gris Serving dinner in the garden
Food cart fantasy AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2009
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editor’s note
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People love to ask questions about our photography, and I love to answer them. No, we don’t use mashed potatoes instead of ice cream. No, we don’t put shellac on the food to make it shine (shellac is made from crushed bugs, by the way). And unlike some big photo operations, no, we don’t take hours and employ multitudes to shoot one picture. One person cooks the food, one person sets up the props, one person makes the pictures and then we all eat the dish (sans shellac). In other words, what you see in a MIX photo is really real. Until this issue, anyway. We asked fine-art photographer Holly Andres to join us for our story on picnics (Page 46). She agreed, and then she faked her whole photo. When I conceived the article, I was going for a slightly secret, dreamy feeling, because to me, that’s what picnics are — surreal. You’re outdoors, with the sky, the breeze, the grass, but hey, here’s a tablecloth and PHOTOGrAPH bY MIke dAvIS
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dishes and food that’s had some attention paid to it. And real wineglasses! So Holly was in tune with our dream theme, but unlike food, dreams need manipulation. She started by stage-setting her summer idyll, then locked the camera in place and shot the empty scene. Next she shot each person or pair of people separately, and in post-production plucked them from their solo frames and placed them precisely into the dreamy composite scene. The final picnic scene was indeed real in Holly’s imagination — which is what matters for her. To make it real for the rest of us, however, she had to fake it.
Martha Holmberg, editor marthaholmberg@news.oregonian.com See more of Holly’s work at hollyandres.com
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CONTENTS
august/september 09 mixpdx.com
30 CART KARMA What do you do if you don’t want to be a rock ’n’ roll star? One guy decided to open a food cart.
36 FUELING THE RIDE Portland and bikes go together like, well, coffee and doughnuts, so
we take a ride around the city, hitting our favorite culinary pit stops.
46 DREAM PICNICS How to dine out this summer? With a blanket, a backpack and our guide to five dreamy picnic places.
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46
IN EvERY ISSUE 13 WALKABOUT Explore the village-y vibe of St. Johns 17 MIXMASTER What’s that thing in your drink? We look at some gorgeous garnishes
21 RADAR Portland is sandwich central
24 FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER PARTY Dinner in a garden of tasty delights 59 THE GOODS Time to pack it up with clever picnic gear
61 I.D. Designer Adam Arnold dresses up his neighborhood diner
73 PUB CRAWL Meet the people at the heart of the Oregon Beer Festival
64 EAT HERE/ ASTORIA Good food in a real town
76 SCENE What to eat where
69 SELECTS Oregon pinot gris, pure and simple
82 SHOP Contact info for people, places and things
84 ONE SHOT Building customer loyalty ON THE COVER Courtliness among the cart folk. Jesse Sandoval greets former cart owner Kir Jensen on the opening day of his Nuevo Mexico food cart (Page 30). PHOTOGRAPH: MOTOYA NAKAMURA
Get more MIX, including recipes from past issues, at MIXPDX.COM
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contributors
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Lizzy Caston is a writer with a professional background in urban planning and economic development. She combines her love of city culture with food writing to document Portland’s thriving food cart scene through the Web site foodcartsportland.com, which is how she became aware of Jesse Sandoval (Page 30). Although eating her way through Multnomah County’s 350+ food carts is pretty much a full-time job, she spent the past summer in New Orleans researching the distinctive Louisiana icy treat known as the Snoball and hundreds of variations on the po’boy.
When he’s not chasing his two young boys or trying to track his globe-trotting wife, Matthew Card is a contributing editor with Cook’s Illustrated, and a freelance writer for The Oregonian. The writing helps fund his real passion, climbing into the West Hills on handbuilt bikes or exploring the region’s countless logging roads. Between Portland’s remarkable food and bike scenes, the East Coast ex-pat is thoroughly pleased with his relocation.
OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS SUSAN BRENNAN, KATHERINE COLE, JJ DE SOUSA, JOHN FOYSTON, ASHLEY GARTLAND, NANCY ROMMELMANN OTHER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS MIKE DAVIS, ROB FINCH, ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON, FREDRICK D. JOE, BRIAN LEE, LEAH NASH
Holly Andres is a fine art photographer and filmmaker in Portland whose work has been shown widely nationally and internationally. She grew up in rural Montana, the youngest daughter in a family of 10 children. She’s fascinated with the interweaving of fact and fiction in her work and finding a place where autobiography and fictitious narration come together. See how she fictionalizes a picnic on Page 46.
Motoya Nakamura jousted with the weather during the week he made pictures of our picnic locations (Page 48), hoping for sun but also some moody clouds to keep the fairy-tale feeling of the piece intact. “I didn’t want to shoot pictures that were just like, ‘here’s where the picnic table is, here’s where you can park’; I was trying to make an image that would hint at the feeling of each place.” Nakamura is a staff photographer at The Oregonian; he’s working toward his MFA in photography at Portland State University. (See his other stories in this issue: Cart Karma, Radar, Walkabout, Pub Crawl, The Goods.) Beth Nakamura is a staff photographer at The Oregonian who shoots frequently for MIX (Mixmaster, Picnics, I.D.). “Shooting for a publication like this is really a photographer’s dream because you can suspend reality a little and enter the oasis of your imagination. What a welcome relief. It’s ideal for us kids who couldn’t stop ourselves from drawing outside the lines.”
Torsten Kjellstrand has been riding bikes since he can remember and eating since even before that. Getting to do both at once pretty much defines a good day, especially when at least some of the riding wanders off the pavement. Meeting other riders with similar tastes was just one of the rewards of photographing this issue’s story on food and cycling (Page 36). Watching a garage-sale pink boa flutter behind several of the riders was another.
Since moving to Oregon in the late ’80s, Grant Butler has visited Astoria many times, but he experienced a first when he visited the notoriously rainy city for this issue’s Eat Here (Page 64): Sunshine! While dining in one restaurant, as the sun set over the mouth of the Columbia River, his waiter commented that it was something that even locals don’t see very often. Another place The Oregonian’s critic-at-large found equally sunny was St. Johns (Page 13), which used to be at once gritty and sleepy but now is one of the city’s most promising culinary destinations.
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8/018/30
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WALKABOUT
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That noise you heard? It’s the sound of St. Johns quietly booming. New businesses, such as Ladybug Organic Coffee (above, with owner Angel O’Brien in pearls), and longstanding ones like the Tulip Pastry Shop combine to create a critical mass of foodie attractions.
[ Downtown St. Johns ]
or a number of years, St. Johns seemed to suffer from an inferiority complex. It didn’t have the sleek sexiness of Northwest Portland or the Pearl District. It didn’t have downtown’s hustle, or the east side’s edgy cool. Now those other parts of town are struggling through a tough economy, and St. Johns is experiencing a boom. When you walk through the downtown area, it’s impressive how few empty storefronts there are and how many businesses are catering to North Portland’s ever-growing good taste. You can spend the better part of an afternoon along a two-block stretch of North Lombard Street, where you can nab sweets, a great lunch and lounge a bit in one of the city’s coolest coffee shops. With all the excitement, no one’s calling St. Johns “sleepy” ever again.
WALKABOUT/dOWnTOWn ST. jOhnS cOnT.
Because Fluffy deserves the best
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Double-chocolate cupcakes aside, you worry about the food you put into your body. And after the tainted pet food scare a couple of years ago, you worry about what you’re feeding your dogs and cats. tré bone, a terrific independent pet shop, only stocks foods that contain no corn, no wheat, no byproducts, and minimal use of preservatives. They also have organic treats and a selection of raw foods. But it’s not all pet-food politics, here. There are fanciful collars, colorful toys and unique dishes for serving up that top-grade kibble. After all, food tastes better when it’s served in a pretty dish. Tré Bone 8326 N. Lombard St.; 971-255-0772 trebone.net
Pastry cases filled with bite-sized bliss For more than 50 years, tulip Pastry shop has been a neighborhood favorite for its doughnuts and other delectable sweets. Start your Lombard Street jaunt here to fuel up on crusty bear claws (arrive early, since they sometimes sell out), dainty frosted brownies and from-scratch double-chocolate cupcakes filled with cream — think hostess Cupcakes, minus all the preservatives and waxy icing and you get the idea. Tulip Pastry Shop 8322 N. Lombard St.; 503-286-3444
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Table dressing
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Midcentury modern antiques have been the collecting rage in recent years, and sabi & Friends is a place you’ll find plenty of trinkets to give your dining table some Donna reed panache. Sweet finds include salad plates shaped like leaves of butter lettuce, with a matching three-compartment relish dish. To give your coffee some kitsch, there are 1960s mugs with swanky bachelor pad designs. For a quirky finish, mix and match pieces of silverware, picking up stray knives and forks for $1 apiece, or a dozen for $10. Sabi & Friends 8402 N. Lombard St.; 503-719-6176
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A seafood pit stop
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Breakfast still may be the big draw at venerable john street cafe, but lunchtime is when the menu takes turns away from omelets to more interesting fare, with seafood playing a prominent role in specials and main dishes. Dig into a quesadilla stuffed with rock shrimp, green chiles, avocado and a mountain of Monterey jack. And if you’re really hungry, grab the blackened snapper salad, with perfectly pan-seared fish sitting on top of romaine, warm jasmine rice, black olives, slices of red pepper and red onion, with generous sprinklings of chopped tomatoes and shredded Parmesan. It’s a steal at just $10.75 and is so lean you’ll leave feeling stuffed but virtuous. John Street Cafe 8338 N. Lombard St.; 503-247-1066
The message on the chalkboard could be a working mantra for all the cool things going on in St. Johns right now: “Imagine, create, inspire, understand, love, share, live, learn, be.” That’s certainly the aesthetic at play at Ladybug organic coffee, a bright and cheery coffee shop where the coffee beans are organic and all the sweets are made right there. The baristas prepare lattes with perfect four-leaf clover designs, which are perfect with silver dollar-sized peanut butter cookies selling for only 25 cents a pop. Order two and munch away while watching the foot traffic through the big picture windows. Ladybug Organic Coffee 8438 N. Lombard St.; 503-715-1006 ladybugcoffee.com £
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EXTENDED! - THRU AUGUST STUDIO
SERIES
CS93158
mixmaster [ Rethinking the edge of our glass ] by ashley gartland PhotograPhy by beth nakamura
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spice on the rim means the drinker gets a fragrant hit of cardamom before tasting the ginger and grapefruit flavors of andina’s ron-yki-on cocktail. Portland bartenders are looking to the edges of their cocktails as the source of sensory complexity.
mixmaster cont.
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Whatever happened to “twist or olive?” the cocktail garnish repertoire has exploded and now includes flavor, aroma and texture enhancers that could impress any molecular gastronomy chef worth his bacon-salt. From top left, clockwise: a sprig of fresh thyme that Wildwood bartender ryan Csanky smacks a tiny bit to release the fragrance; sugar cane spears carved by andina’s greg hoitsma; umeboshi (salted plum) and sugar cubes to make Pok Pok’s drinks sweet-salty-tart; and Csanky’s egg foam drizzled with basil oil.
afe nell’s bloody mary turns heads. It isn’t the drink’s size or the restorative powers of this hangover cure that causes brunch customers to stare — it’s the garnish. the elaborate tower’s a medley of pickled veggies, poached jumbo prawns, pepperoncini, sharp cheddar cheese blocks and spanish-style chorizo, all rising from a robust red cocktail called the mary nell. “It’s the most photographed thing in the restaurant,” says Cafe nell co-owner darren Creely. “When we serve it, digital cameras and camera phones come out.” It’s eye-catching, yes, but it’s also a shift from thinking of a garnish as simply a colorful add-on to today’s approach where garnishes are a true part of the cocktail. “the garnish is one more component that is integral to how that drink is going to be perceived, both the smell and on the palate,” says Wildwood bartender ryan Csanky. Whether it’s a cardamom sugar rim, a farm-to-glass add-on like pickled watermelon rind or a slightly loony rock candy swizzle stick, garnishes are getting serious treatment from local bartenders.
sugar and spice, on the edge anyone who’s had a lemon drop knows about a sugar rim, but that type of sweet garnish isn’t something Csanky approves of. “I won’t put a rim on a cocktail just to put a rim on it. In fact, the sugar rim is one of the garnishes I hate the most because if the drink is balanced and made correctly, you don’t need to lick it like a lollipop,” he says. he’ll sugar a glass when the drink traditionally calls for it, but often uses salt to meld the flavors in his inventive seasonal cocktails. or salt and pepper. “People think they don’t want pepper on a cocktail that has peaches or apricots or nectarines in it, but it is so interesting and nice to have that dichotomy of flavors — the peppery spiciness with the sweetness of the fruit flavors,” he says.
not everyone’s a total sugar-rim naysayer; andina’s greg hoitsma has updated the sweet edge of the glass for certain of his drinks, mixing cardamom with sugar in a rim that plays well with his grapefruit and ginger inflected ron-yki-on cocktail. “you could infuse the rum with the cardamom but what’s nice about putting it in a rim is that it separates the flavors,” he says. “the cardamom hits first before the ginger and the grapefruit. It’s a way of not having the flavors muddle so much.”
Booze, with your daily allowance of fresh fruits and veggies In produce-mad Portland, a twist of lemon isn’t enough fresh stuff to satisfy local bartenders. bluehour
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mixmaster cont.
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bartender nicolas kellyschwartz skewers marketfresh blueberries to create a bright garnish for his grey gardens cocktail, while Park kitchen’s shane king Feirstein uses fruits and veggies in the Park martini: pickled watermelon rind and spiced carrots alternately stacked on a clear cocktail spear. “It’s a looker, and each of the pickles really highlights different notes and flavor components of the gin in the drink,” says king Feirstein. herb garnishes are a favorite of Csanky, who likes to offset fruity cocktails with fragrant herbs such as rosemary and thyme. before floating the fresh sprig in the glass, he slaps the herb on his open palm to release its aromatic oils. “When you bring the glass up to take a sip of the drink, you get that aromatic of the rosemary. It doesn’t become a component of the drink but it becomes a component of the experience,” he says. “and, having that little bit of rosemary aroma hit your nose as the drink hits your palate changes the way the drink is perceived without having to add a rosemary component to the drink itself.” For more info, see shop Page 82
in the category of “why didn’t we think of that?” the rock candy swizzle stick served with gilt Club’s glitter Pants cocktail looks cool and the swizzling adds to the flavor, further intensifying the sweetness of the drink. “What really makes it work is that the garnish itself unequivocally defines the drink,” says owner Jamie dunn. “you don’t order a cocktail with rock candy in it and get surprised that it’s sweet.” bacon might seem to fit into the obscure category, though it’s become so trendy some Portlanders practically bathe in it these days. gilt Club bartenders muddle crisped bacon with salt to create the rim for the bar’s famed blt cocktail; at Wildwood, Csanky test-drove a prosciutto, salt and pepper rim in a seasonal melon-based sipper last summer. these drinks certainly attract a niche demographic — bacon addicts who like to drink — but they also exemplify what home bartenders should look for in a garnish: a flavor profile that matches the drink and their own tastes. “the important thing for someone doing this at home is not what I am doing here,” says Csanky. “experiment. that’s what it’s all about. ” £
radar
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House-Smoked Pastrami on Multigrain Bread at Laurelhurst Market
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[ Let’s just have a sandwich ] very year, some hot new dining trend seems to take over the restaurant scene. Remember the sweet fixation with cupcakes a few years back, or last year’s love affair with hot wings, which were so ubiquitous they even showed up on bar menus at swanky places? Let’s make it official: 2009 is the year of the sandwich. Diners already were buzzing about recent arrivals Meat Cheese Bread and Bunk Sandwiches, both low-key Southeast Portland spots turning out terrific artisan sammies. And then two more places jumped into the mix this past spring, completing the harmonic convergence. Northwest’s Kenny & Zuke’s SandwichWorks takes a traditionalist’s approach, with a lineup of American classics — think of a cross between some mythical New York deli and some down-home Midwestern sandwich shack. Then there’s the butcher counter at Northeast’s Laurelhurst Market, where the emphasis is on what comes between bread slices, like great charcuterie and roasted meats, all done with the sort of DIY flair that makes The New York Times swoon. Together, they are yin-yang between two slices, showcasing the range of what great sandwiches can be.
BY GRANT BuTLeR / PHoToGRAPHY BY MoToYA NAKAMuRA
Meet your sandwich all-stars This year’s sandwich boom really is rooted in the success that Ken Gordon and Nick Zukin had when they opened downtown’s Kenny & Zuke’s Delicatessen in 2007. From the get-go, crowds swooned over their thick-cut pastrami Reubens and corned beef on rye. With crowds still packing the deli, the duo decided to expand. “When we talked about doing a spinoff, we looked around and thought, ‘What do we really like to eat that we can’t get around here?’ ” Gordon says. “I couldn’t find a great meatball hero. Now I’m making one.” You’ll find the hero — loaded with plump Italian meatballs and zesty marinara sauce — at Kenny & Zuke’s SandwichWorks, which
radar cont. opened in April in an industrial space that at one time housed a sheet metal shop called — fittingly — Schmeer. It’s one of a dozen allstar American sandwiches dominating the menu: Chicago Italian Beef, with thinly sliced beef and garlic-fueled gravy; Chicken Salad Club, with bacon, lettuce and tomato slices piled onto a mound of mayonnaisey chicken salad; there’s a nod to the desert Southwest with the Super Torta Puebla, loaded with roasted pork, black beans, chorizo and chipotle salsa; and for sheer comfort, there’s grilled cheese. With the exception of the Reuben (carried over from the deli, though served as miniature sliders here), everything is unique to SandwichWorks. And prices are a notch lower, with nothing over $9. Another difference is the size of the operation. The deli has a hectic vibe, with 60 employees working the kitchen and dining room. SandwichWorks is more laid-back, run by just
four people, with counter service in place of waiters, and diners sitting at long, communal picnic tables or grabbing orders to go. The simplicity of the setting gets to the heart of what makes SandwichWorks tick. eating here isn’t a tricked-out, trendy experience, and the menu hasn’t landed from outer space. It’s just the best ingredients being used to build classic sandwiches. Kenny & Zuke’s SandwichWorks 2376 N.W. Thurman St. 503-954-1737 kennyandzukes.com
Butcher case sandwiches Laurelhurst Market is also a spinoff business, from the Simpatica Dining Hall gang. At night, what was once a run-down minimart is a smart neighborhood
Super Torta Puebla at Kenny & Zuke’s
steakhouse, producing delicious grilled steaks and chops. During the day, the action’s up front at the restaurant’s commercial butcher counter, which is very similar in style and focus to the Viande counter the same crew ran in City Market until last year, with prime cuts of poultry and meat and an emphasis on homemade sausages. Like Viande, this counter also
produces incredible sandwiches, taking advantage of all of the incredible charcuterie and roasted meats on hand. Grabbing an order sheet, you can craft your own sandwich by checking off the types of bread and fillings you want. But the better way to go is to focus on the half-dozen items on the chalkboard sandwich menu, which offer some eclectic combinations — think Italy,
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Overlooking the Sandy River . . .
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Reuben Slider at Kenny & Zuke’s
minus the red sauce. Take the porchetta sandwich. The prime ingredient here is the porchetta itself, a butcher’s answer to a mad scientist’s creation, with roasted pork loin and belly stuffed with sausage, and loads of garlic and herbs. It’s sliced to a moderate thickness, then put on a crusty ciabatta roll, dressed up further with Dijon mustard, red leaf lettuce and
Porchetta at Laurelhurst Market
tangy pepperoncini. The flavors and textures all work together, creating perfect sandwich harmony. And at just $4 for a half sandwich, or $7 for a whole, it’s a terrific deal. The only off note: There’s no place to sit. The dining room, which has plenty of tables, is blocked off during the day, and once you’ve got your sandwich, you’re likely to feel perturbed that you have to eat it
behind the wheel of your car. That annoyance yields to bliss when you take the first bite. Like the euphoria that goes hand-in-hand with great chocolate, a perfect pork sandwich is a guaranteed mood mender. £ Laurelhurst Market 3155 E. Burnside St. 503-206-3099 laurelhurstmarket.com
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24/4/09 2:04:39 PM
friday night dinner party [ Out in the garden, life slows down ]
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JJ De Sousa likes to dine out, as in out in the garden. With abundant plants, furniture and lighting, she’s created distinctive outdoor spaces perfect for everything from sipping tea for two to laying out a spread for a dozen guests.
By J J De Sousa / Photography by Mike Davis
have a teeny house, only 900 square feet. I also have a huge yard, 77 x 127 feet. If you do the math, you see it’s a lot easier for me to just move the party outdoors. We have such great summer and fall weather here that my husband, José De Sousa, and I entertain outdoors almost exclusively. We treat our outdoor spaces as an extension of our living space, filling them with great furniture, fun colors, killer plants and pots, beautiful lighting, cozy fire pits, soothing water features and, of course, amazing food. My garden has eight places to sit, from a bistro table for two to a sectional that seats 10 for serious lounging, to a dining area for 14. Besides being total garden geeks, we are total foodies. My husband is from France, so it just comes naturally. Keeping up with the gardening is a huge time challenge, so I’m all over the concept of quick and delicious recipes. I still want them to be chic and sophisticated, though, so it’s all about the ingredients. Luckily, all the farmers markets, local butchers and fishmongers make
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The kitchen’s on the small side, but there’s plenty of room for friends to help. JJ runs a design shop (Digs Inside & Out, 1829-b N.E. Alberta St., 503-460-3447, digs-pdx.com) and her schedule doesn’t allow time for fussing, so she often relies on a repertoire of crazy-easy recipes that work.
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The Menu Sparkling Peach Sangria Fresh Figs and Prosciutto Cucumber Gazpacho Grilled Salmon Vinaigrette Garbanzo Bean Salad in a Red Pepper Bowl Saffron Rice Ten-minute Tiramisu
our entertaining easier. When I get home from a day at my shop and studio, I usually only have an hour or so to pull a dinner together, but with the help of my darling husband and a few simple recipes it is entirely possible. I believe in starting the evening with one amazing cocktail, and we get a lot of mileage out of a simple sangria. The gazpacho literally takes two minutes, the saffron rice is simple, colorful and crazy delicious. My mother-in-law in Lyon, France, sends me care packets of Spanish saffron, and we use it liberally. The garbanzo bean salad is ridiculously easy, delicious and presents incredibly well in a red pepper shell. I got the recipe from the wife of our friend Gilbert, who owns Cuvee Restaurant in Carlton. We use cilantro, but the original recipe called for fresh basil, which is also yummy. I use a ton of cumin in this recipe; the flavor just pops off the beans. Our method for the salmon is the easiest thing in the world: I make a simple vinaigrette and dump it on top. Done! I like to use balsamic vinegar in the dressing as it caramelizes while the fish is grilling and allows the flavorings to really stick to the salmon. Since I don’t really have too much of a sweet tooth, I always struggle with what to serve for dessert. I had really been looking for a simple, quick and no-cook recipe that everyone could enjoy and I finally found it. A 10-minute tiramisu that is really a 10-minute recipe. Seriously. So there you have it: my perfect recipe for a perfect evening with friends in my garden. Plan your own garden soiree and just get out there, no matter what your garden looks like.
friday night dinner party cont.
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The Playlist Black Eyed Peas Mas Que Nada Alice in Chains No Excuses Brigitte Bardot Tu Veux ou Tu Veux Pas Chris Cornell Can’t Change Me (French version) Aqua Barbie Girl AudioDile/ELO Don’t Bring Me Down Staple Singers I’ll Take You There Hall and Oates Rich Girl Orishas Represent Grand Funk Railroad Some Kind of Wonderful Soul Coughing Super Bon Bon Young MC Bust a Move Presidents of the United States of America Lump Kiss Goin’ Blind Shakira Ojos Asi Metallica Hero of the Day
friday night dinner party cont.
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Fresh Figs and Prosciutto
Just like it sounds: Take 6 to 12 very ripe figs, quarter them, then wrap a ½ slice of yummy prosciutto around each quarter. Spear it with a toothpick and pour a little balsamic vinegar over the bundles, and try not to eat all of them yourself. Makes 6 servings.
Cucumber Gazpacho
This recipe is made in your blender and is quite possibly the easiest thing you have ever made; it is a staple at our house during the summer. Peel and chop 2 large cucumbers and put them in a blender. Add 1 chopped tomato, 1 large clove garlic, a handful of fresh cilantro, ½ cup sour cream, a splash of white vinegar, a bit of horseradish to taste and a little salt and freshly ground black pepper. Then blend, baby, blend. Place in the fridge for 30 minutes before serving so flavors marry and the soup is well chilled. Toss on a few croutons and look out — everyone will think you slaved over this one. Makes 6 servings.
Grilled Salmon Vinaigrette
Heat grill to medium-hot. Mix ¼ cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, ½ teaspoon salt and ¾ teaspoon herbes de Provence. Make a boat out of a double layer of aluminum foil to put on the grill and place a 3-pound salmon fillet skin side down in the boat. Generously salt and pepper the salmon, brush it with some of the vinaigrette and then place very thin slices from about a half a lemon on the salmon, along with a few sprigs of rosemary. Move the salmon boat onto the grill and pour the rest of the vinaigrette over the salmon. Grill, covered, for 12 to 15 minutes. Check the salmon by cutting into the center to see if it is done to your liking (we suggest cooking until center is still a bit moist and transluscent), then serve. Makes 6 generous servings.
Garbanzo Bean Salad in a Red Pepper Bowl
Take three 15-ounce cans of garbanzo beans, dump them into a colander and rinse well. Put the beans in a large bowl along with one finely chopped red onion, one finely chopped red pepper and half a bunch of chopped cilantro. Mix in about 1⁄3 cup olive oil, a few tablespoons white wine vinegar, a little sea salt and a hefty amount of ground cumin. (I am rather heavy-handed with the cumin, so don’t be shy. The beans have a strong flavor, and the cumin complements it nicely.) Mix well and let the flavors develop for about half an hour before serving. For a tasty and beautiful presentation, cut the tops off 6 red bell peppers, hollow them out, discard the caps and scoop the salad into the pepper bowls. Makes 6 servings.
Saffron Rice
Melt a tablespoon of butter in a medium saucepan and toss in a hearty pinch of saffron threads. Add 4 cups chicken broth and bring to a boil. Add 2 cups jasmine rice and let the mixture boil while stirring for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn off heat and let rice sit covered for another 10 minutes, then fluff with a fork and serve. Makes 6 servings.
Sparkling Peach Sangria 1 (11.5-ounce) can peach nectar ½ cup peach-flavored brandy ½ cup lime juice ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 (750-ml) bottle pinot grigio 1½ cups brut sparkling wine or sparkling water
Ten-minute Tiramisu
Mix two 8-ounce containers of mascarpone and a pint of whipping cream with about ½ teaspoon vanilla and a little powdered sugar (sweeten to your taste). Whip to peaks and set aside. In a medium bowl mix 1⁄3 cup hot water and 2⁄3 cup coffee liqueur, such as Kahlúa. Take a 3-ounce package of ladyfinger cookies (I use the soft kind; Zupan’s carries them) and lightly and quickly soak 3 or 4 at a time in the liqueur mixture and layer them in the bottom of a 7-by-11-inch serving dish. Spread a layer of the cream mixture and then repeat, using up all the cream mixture and the cookies. If you have any additional liquid, pour it over the top of the whole thing. Grate some chocolate over the top, refrigerate for at least 2 hours to wdevelop the flavors and serve. My, oh my, this is good (and rich). Makes 12 servings.
Slices of fresh peaches and limes for garnish In a pitcher or jug stir together the nectar, brandy, lime juice and sugar until sugar has dissolved. Add the pinot grigio and chill until ready to serve. Just before serving, add sparkling wine or sparkling water. Pour over ice-filled glasses and garnish with fruit slices. Makes 6 servings. £
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cart karma Jesse sandoval can’t help himself — he spent his childhood as a traveling carny kid, and now destiny compels him to do it again.
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For many adults, opening a food cart is the stuff of escapist fantasies — no more cubicles or endless staff meetings, you’re the boss now. Portland’s crazy food cart scene, with its bustling lines of diners and smiling vendors selling thai street snacks or gourmet waffles, makes the fantasy even more vivid. and food carts seem affordable, too; surely only a few grand and a visit to the county, right? But Jesse sandoval didn’t have that kind of clock-punching, suit-wearing job to begin with. His job was as the drummer for the hard-touring rock band the shins, with multiple acclaimed albums, countless national and international tours and fans around the world. For him, the idea of a cart simply meant a less hectic life. It would mean evenings off rather than 2 a.m. encores in some club. mostly, Jesse, age 34, wanted to spend more time with his son and girlfriend, michelle Healy. “I just didn’t want to miss out watching lucho grow up,” Jesse said. “I knew I’d be working hard running a business, but I would at least be home By Lizzy Caston in time for dinner.” and while a food cart for most of us would Photography by be a venture into uncharted fantasy territory, motoya nakamura for Jesse, it’s a return to his roots: “I was a carny
The pleasures of running a food cart are many — you control your time, you cook the food you love, you can stay close to friends and family — but the challenges can truly stink. Jesse Sandoval had to wrangle DIY carpentry projects, failed inspections (only at first!) and surprise plumbing emergencies before he opened his new cart, Nuevo Mexico. “I learned I’m really good at making food, at promoting myself and at ideas, but I also learned I’m not a plumber.” PHOTOGRAPH BY OLIVIA BUCKS (left)
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“I already knew the business, and I still cook a lot of my family’s recipes at big dinner parties for ex-pat new mexicans who have gravitated to Portland. I thought, ‘I know how to do this.’ ”
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Sandoval relishes the idea of swapping late-night music gigs in clubs for a life where he can spend more time with son Lucho (above) and girlfriend Michelle Healy. But that life now will take place in a very small kitchen, on wheels.
growing up, so really, this is a natural return for me.” While many kids were spending summers at camp, on vacation at the beach or running their first lemonade stands, Jesse was living the life of a vagabond, traveling from one new mexico town to another with his mother, Carmen, grandparents and a posse of various aunts, uncles and cousins. this multi-generational new mexico family (on his father’s side — Jesse’s mom is from Venezuela) owned concession stands serving everything from cotton candy to more traditional dishes based on the many varieties of chiles found in the state — dishes such as carne adovada (pork in red chile
sauce), heady stews made with chewy hominy corn and the nuevo mexican fried dough taco known as navajo tacos. the family brought their food to places as large as sante Fe and as small and sacred as the many Indian pueblos scattered throughout the state. “new mexico has an intense culture of festivals throughout the summer with music, carts and culture. this is where people take pride in their rich heritage — everything from the spanish, mexican and native american presence. our foods were a big part of that.” the sandoval family became a familiar sight on the carnival circuit, and many of Jesse’s best memories can be pegged to his time as a carny.
“I first learned to drive a truck at the carnivals, learned how to cook, what it means to work hard and take pride in my work, and I even had my first romance on the circuit.” Jesse started at around age 14 hauling water (“I hated that job”), graduated to dishwasher, cashier, then finally to the high honor of cook. so when the idea to open a cart serving the family recipes he loved popped into his head a couple of years ago, it seemed easy. “I already knew the business, and I still cook a lot of my family’s recipes at big dinner parties for ex-pat new mexicans who have gravitated to Portland. I thought, ‘I know how to do this.’ ” But serving a green chile stew at a leisurely
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buffet for 20 is much different than opening and running a business from the ground up. “I get about three to four inquiries per week from people wanting to open up food carts,” says andrea spella from spella Caffe, an espresso cart on southwest ninth avenue and alder street. andrea, who grew up working in his family’s busy Polish-Italian bakery and worked in the coffee business for years before opening spella three years ago, knows that to be successful it takes gumption, 80-hour workweeks and skills ranging from carpenter to baker to emergency food gofer. “People think it’s really easy because carts are these small things, but they have just as many challenges and
demands as any other business, and you really, really have to be a people person,” says spella. For the ones who do take the plunge (and there are many — multnomah County now has over 380 food carts and more applications every week), every new cart owner has a different experience. some cart owners do a lot of research, have professional culinary training and recent experience in the food industry, so they understand things like where to find a cart, the permitting process, costing and marketing. some have budgets that allow for brand-new, fully stocked and ready-to-go carts, complete with hot water and full kitchens. others, like Jesse, take a more grass-roots
approach. “I spent cash on my cart because I didn’t want to go into debt, and I got a fixerupper. For me it is really more about doing it on my own, at my own pace.” this can-do attitude is admirable, but it isn’t always practical. “I learned I’m really good at making food, at promoting myself and at ideas, but I also learned I’m not a plumber. I don’t know anything about interior design” … which set him back a few weeks and a bit more money than he planned. Jesse did research — he solicited advice from people like his neighbor Kir Jensen, the former owner of the much-loved-but-now-departed pastry cart sugar Cube, and by asking
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other restaurant industry friends. But Jesse bought his cart from a church in Vancouver, where it had been sitting in the parking lot for years, and although the price was right at around $5,000, the cart came with some unknown structural, electrical and, yes, plumbing problems. although carts do not have the same permitting processes as restaurants, they do have the same health and safety requirements. Carts are inspected for fire and health issues on a regular basis. “We still need to make sure the carts are following good hygiene practices,” says Jon Kawaguchi, multnomah
County Environmental Health supervisor. He’s helped put together a checklist for new cart owners. the county uses the same strict guidelines for carts as they do for other food establishments: cleanliness, including properly running and heated water, is critical. the day nuevo mexico was scheduled to open, Jesse sent out an ominous text message, “sorry Inspector no likey water. Have to add hot water heater.” “I thought the amount of work would be simple, and I found the permitting process easy,” says nancy Ettinger of the savor soup House cart on southwest 10th avenue
ON-LINE EXTRA: So you want to open a food cart, too? Get advice at mIXpdX.cOm
and alder street. “It’s the heavy daily lifting of five gallons of water and soup, and worrying at night about getting sick and missing work with no other workers to help me” that gives her pause. Greg abbott, owner of the fried pie cart Whiffies on southeast 12th avenue and Hawthorne Boulevard, agrees but says, “all the other cart owners have been super supportive. If I hit a snag, they are right there at the rescue.” When Greg’s plumbing also went kaput the day before he opened, his cart neighbor, the owner of El Brasero taco truck, had his plumber there to fix it within 20 minutes.
Chicken and Green Chile stew (… kind of like Jesse sandoval’s) MAKeS 6 SeRVINGS
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons kosher salt
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. add the onion and sauté until tender and just beginning to brown, about 4 to 5 minutes. add the garlic and sauté for another 30 to 45 seconds. stir in the cumin and chile powder and cook for another minute or until the spices are fragrant. add the green chiles, jalapeños, tomatillos, chicken broth and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. stir in the cannellini beans and chicken and simmer another 10 minutes. taste and adjust salt if necessary. top with cilantro, cheese and tortilla chips.
2 15-ounce cans cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
— From linda Faus, Foodday test kitchen director
1 large onion, diced ¼-inch 2 large cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon ancho chile powder 1½ cups roasted, peeled and chopped mild green chiles (canned is fine; two 7-ounce cans whole green chiles is enough) 2 tablespoons minced canned jalapeños, or more to taste 1 12-ounce can whole tomatillos, drained and chopped 4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
2 cups shredded cooked chicken Chopped fresh cilantro, grated jack cheese and tortilla chips for garnish
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It’s this tight “cart community” that makes all the difference to sandoval. “What’s been most surprising is that there really is this strong cart community here to support me — owners, cart fans, new mexican cuisine lovers all joining together. I feel like I’m part of a movement.” For Jesse, it’s also part of “the rhythm of my life. Carny-musician-carny.” “you just need to ask, ‘what am I good at?’ I was meant to do this.” £ Find Jesse Sandoval’s brightly painted cart Nuevo Mexico at Southwest Third Avenue and Stark Street. It’s open for lunch Monday through Friday, as long as the plumbing’s working . . .
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fueling the ride
A story about bikes, coffee, tacos and steep hills
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There are those who ride to race and those who ride for the pure joy of spinning along wherever the road or trail may take them. Torsten Kjellstrand and I are in the latter camp. For us, the best rides mix steep pitches, scenic vistas, obscure roads and, most importantly, plenty of replenishment — fine baked goods, strong coffee, tacos and beer. Between the city’s topography and its multiplicity of cafes and watering holes, Portland is the right place to ride. Nine riders gathered one Saturday morning for a mixed-terrain ride encompassing some of our favorite roads, trails and snack spots. The goal? To have fun and (hopefully) burn as many calories as we ingested. The group contained a cross section of Portland’s cycling scene, including custom-frame builders, industry insiders and just plain bike nuts (Torsten and me). Each of us rode cyclocross bikes, which are drop-barred, stoutly constructed road bikes fitted with strong brakes and chubby tires. Designed for a peculiar, steeplejack-style race course, the bikes are a compromise between a road bike’s fleetness and a mountain bike’s ruggedness. A side note: Portland is arguably North America’s epicenter of cyclocross racing and boasts a fall racing calendar that thousands of riders participate in. Some of those in our ride partake; others sit course-side and heckle — a sport unto itself.
By Matthew Card Photography by Torsten Kjellstrand No power bars for our riders — they fuel their ride with true health food: here, it’s a piece of coffeecake from Baker & Spice. See our sort-of-similar recipe on Page 44.
2
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1
tank up
We started at Tiny’s on Hawthorne, the perfect meeting place for a crowd of riders, with plenty of outdoor seating, strong Stumptown coffee and a broad variety of sugary snacks. (But you need to beat the hipsters that fill its seats by midday.) There was plenty of bright spandex among us, but old-school, always-cool clothing like vintage wool jerseys and supple leather gloves were represented as well. (Portland is home to the U.S. office of Rapha Performance Roadwear, a British cycling clothing company that produces, among other coveted goods, handmade goatskin gloves.)
bike smut Portland has the
highest concentration of custom-frame builders of any city in the country, and it’s hard to ride more than a block without seeing some of their beautiful handiwork. That work doesn’t come cheap: seven of the nine bikes on the ride cost upward of $2,500. Roughly half the group rode single-speed bikes, bikes fitted with a single cog in the rear. Proponents argue that single-speeding represents the purest form of cycling; sane sorts see the lack of gears as lunacy. Torsten: It’s sort of like why people buy British sports cars — it’s almost the impracticality of it that makes it interesting.
the riders Matthew Card organized the ride, designed the course and wrote the commentary for the pictures. Torsten Kjellstrand rode the ride but also made pictures along the way, meaning he had an interval ride that day, racing ahead of the group, then stopping to shoot as everyone went by. Torsten’s comments are integrated with Matthew’s.
Matt Cardinal: Bicycle frame-builder and artist. Half of the Signal Cycles dynamic duo.
Tony Pereira: Bicycle frame-builder, sole employee of Pereira Cycles. Bon vivant.
Trystan Cobbett: Former Rapha Performance Roadwear stalwart; now Portland expat.
Shannon Holt: Graphic designer and all-around cycling scenester. Founding member of Team Super Relax.
Uma Kleppinger: Yoga instructor, teaching, among many things, yoga for cyclists. Team Super Relax member. Chris Aguirre: Chris King Precision Components employee. Young and eager.
Scott Ramsey: Guy Friday of Vanilla Bicycles. So nice, he could only be from Wisconsin. Matthew Card: Writer. Cook. Bike nut. Torsten Kjellstrand: Photographer. Bike nut. Swede.
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3
cake stop
After only a few miles of riding, including the stiff climb up the shaded hills of Riverview Cemetery, a stop was in order for another round of espressos and pastry, at Hillsdale’s Baker & Spice. In my opinion, they make the best coffeecake in town — equal parts crunchy streusel and buttery crumb, providing more than enough calories to tackle the twisted rabbit warren of roads from Hillsdale’s Sunset Boulevard to the highest point in town, Council Crest Park (1,073 feet above sea level). Looking fine in vintage Dutch wool, Matt (on the opening page) is set to inhale a piece of cake.
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stair master
Council Crest Park is ringed with dirt trails, some of which are more bike friendly than others. This set of steps tops a tight single-track stretch climbing from the base of the park. Yours truly puts the screws to the pack. Torsten: For me, this is where the group came together, when something loosened up. We’d eaten a little coffeecake together, which makes people love each other.
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high rise
Shannon smiles her way up a 15-plus-percent climb with the east side spreading out beneath her. This hurts (hills never look steep enough in pictures), but she makes it look easy. Maybe it was all that coffeecake — or her triple espresso.
We next make a quick descent to Sylvan and across Route 26 to Skyline Boulevard. To avoid traffic, we travel up 58th Street, which runs parallel to Skyline — and at least twice the grade. Crossing Barnes, we drop down through Mt. Calvary Cemetery and join back up with Skyline. Once at the peak, we take a quick — and I mean quick — detour down the twisting goat path of Greenleaf Road, a white-knuckled descent with enough curves and gravelly corners to scare the best. Some of us much prefer the road going up.
6
joy ride
Baby-faced Chris was the youngest of the bunch and smiled his way through the ride, no matter how long the climb. He also ate coffeecake through the entire ride (I suspect he squirreled away two slices during the Baker & Spice pit stop.) Torsten: This guy could eat. He had coffeecake in his back pocket.
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yard birds
By the time we’d descended into Forest Park and ridden Leif Erikson out to Germantown Road and across the St. Johns Bridge, we were hungry — really hungry. Carnitas, smoky salsas and top-notch margaritas from Por Qué No beckoned. But on the way, Uma veered into a yard sale on Willamette Boulevard and came away with a fitting find for the ride’s vibe: a pink feather boa. The boa was passed around until we hit Mississippi Avenue. Torsten: Little pink feathers flew off as we rode.
8
re-fuel Por Qué No’s locally provisioned, inspired take on Latin favorites are hugely
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popular, post-ride foodstuffs for much of the city’s cycling community. Shannon and Uma dig into chips and down their first, well-deserved beer. After climbing 1,700-odd feet and the pounding of roots and rocks in Forest Park, tamales and tacos are welcome. Torsten: We’d ridden a lot of vertical by then. That makes food taste good.
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length 31.35 miles 50.45 kilometers
route elevation
feet
1250
elevation minimum: -20 ft. maximum: 1227 ft. ascent: 1713 ft. descent: -1572 ft.
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31.3
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quick take
Despite being Swedish, Torsten can’t hold his beer. The camera has been drinking . . . 10
good sport
Tony showed up to ride after just three hours of sleep but held his own up each climb (and descended like a sack of hammers). A tamale and a beer (or three) put a smile back on his face.
calories count fuel burned:
7 men 2 women average height: approx. 5’10” average weight: approx. 162 pounds duration of active riding: 3 hours group calories burned: 18,387 CALORIES SOURCE: webMD.com Fit-O-Meter. Really.
fuel consumed:
Four 8-ounce lattes, two double espressos, three 12-ounce coffees, three “everything” bagels with cream cheese, two lemon-poppy seed scones, two berry scones, then three double espressos, two 8-ounce lattes, two 8-ounce americanos, five slices coffeecake, three almond and currant oatmeal scones, two berry hand pies, then three baskets tortilla chips and salsa, four carnitas tacos, four carne asada tacos, two pollo asada tacos, two “Bryan’s” bowls (rice, carnitas, salsa, guacamole, cotija cheese) with flour tortillas, two huevos rancheros plates with flour tortillas, three tamales with beans, twelve 16-ounce beers, four margaritas and, finally, two waffles with maple cream and walnuts, two waffles with Nutella and raspberry jam, one waffle with lemon curd and whipped cream, two waffles with sausage and maple syrup, two 8-ounce coffees which adds up to:
26,544 CALORIES
SOURCE: Linda Faus, Oregonian test kitchen director
Tiny’s on Hawthorne 1412 S.E. 12th Ave. 503-239-5859 Rapha Performance Roadwear rapha.cc 11
full stop We should have stopped with the tacos and beer, but the draw of the Flavour Spot was too
much. Flavour Spot sits on the hardscrabble corner of Mississippi and Fremont and makes a crisp, buttery waffle, which folds around all manner of sweet and fatty fillings — from maple cream, Nutella and lemon curd to sausage, ham and cheese. Black Forest waffles? Check. Sausage and maple? You bet. On top of the tacos and beer, not to mention road weariness, the waffles proved too much and some of us rolled home feeling our bellies as well as our sore legs. Torsten: It’s amazing how much food a bunch of skinny people can pack away. We didn’t drink that much beer, though — we all knew we were getting back on our bikes. £
Work up a grand appetite at Chris King Precision Components Gourmet Century ride, a 103-kilometer noncompetitive bicycle ride through Yamhill County Oct. 17. This is the first Chris King ride outside of California — they’re finally figuring out where the good stuff is. Riders are nourished along the way and rewarded with a final feast of Spanish-inspired dishes; proceeds benefit the Livestrong Foundation. To register, go to chrisking.com
Por Qué No 3524 N. Mississippi Ave. 503-467-4149 Flavour Spot Corner of North Mississippi and North Fremont avenues 503-282-9866
if you like to eat and ride, too: For more riding and drinking, contact Pedal Bike Tours, which offers two ways to ride to a higher plane of consciousness: a “coffee crawl” to visit local roasters and coffeehouses and a wine country ride. For more info, contact pedalbiketours.com
Baker & Spice 6330 S.W. Capitol Highway 503-244-7573 bakerandspicebakery.com
Clever Cycles is taking people out for dinner on bikes, stopping at several places for “tapas” style consumption. But no spandex, please, and not even Rapha. Their message? “Get dressed, people.” clevercycles.com
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New York-Style Crumb Cake MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
“just right”
Julie Richardson of Baker & Spice was happy to share her coffeecake recipe with us, but it would have taken a lot of tinkering to scale it down to home proportions, so we figured we’d just give you this one, from Cook’s Illustrated. The two cakes are similar in style, and this one’s almost as delicious as Julie’s.
–The Oregonian
Don’t be tempted to substitute all-purpose flour for the cake flour; doing that will make a dry, tough cake. If you can’t find buttermilk, substitute an equal amount of plain, low-fat yogurt. When topping the cake, take care not to push the crumbs into the batter. This recipe can be easily doubled and baked in a 13-by-9-inch baking dish. If doubling, increase the baking time to about 45 minutes. Cooled leftovers can be wrapped in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to two days.
Crumb topping:
7am-11pm Tuesday-Friday 9am-11pm Saturday
⁄ cup granulated sugar
Saturday Happy Hour All Night Long 4pm-Close
NW 20TH & Kearney cafenell.com 503 295-6487
⁄ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
½ cup granulated sugar
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon ⁄ teaspoon salt
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½ cup unsalted butter, melted and still warm (1 stick) Photo: Kim Nguyen
Weekend Brunch 9am-4pm Saturday 9am-2pm Sunday
1¼ cups cake flour
13
Happy Hour 3-6 Tuesday-Friday
Cake:
13
1¾ cups cake flour
¼ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces, softened but still cool 1 egg 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon vanilla ⁄ cup buttermilk
13
Powdered sugar for dusting
To make topping: Whisk sugars, cinnamon, salt and butter in medium bowl to combine. Add flour and stir with rubber spatula or wooden spoon until mixture resembles thick, cohesive dough; set aside to cool to room temperature, 10 to 15 minutes.
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To make cake: Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Cut 16-inch length of parchment paper or aluminum foil and fold lengthwise to 7-inch width. Spray 8-inch square baking dish with nonstick cooking spray and fit parchment into dish, pushing it into corners and up sides; allow excess to overhang edges of dish. In bowl of standing mixer fitted with paddle attachment, mix flour, sugar, baking soda and salt on low speed to combine. With mixer running at low speed, add butter one piece at a time; continue beating until mixture resembles moist crumbs, with no visible butter chunks remaining, 1 to 2 minutes. Add egg, yolk, vanilla and buttermilk; beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 1 minute, scraping once if necessary.
French Hair Cutting Color & Treatments 17 years of experience Formerly at Magnum Opus Certified Educator Kelly Hilligoss
626 NW 12th | Portland, OR 97209
503.516.5539
Transfer batter to baking pan; using rubber spatula, spread batter into even layer. Break apart crumb topping into large pea-sized pieces and spread in even layer over batter, beginning with edges and then working toward center. Bake until crumbs are golden and wooden skewer inserted into center of cake comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool on wire rack at least 30 minutes. Remove cake from pan by lifting parchment overhang. Dust with powdered sugar just before serving. — From Cook’s Illustrated
Cooking School
The World’s First-Ever
ONLINE COOKING SCHOOL From the Farm
To Your Plate
Portland Farmers Market partners with Rouxbe to offer you a 90-day free pass to the world’s first-ever online cooking school. Sign up if you’d like a little help in the kitchen at:
http://pfm.rouxbe.com
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dream picnics By mATTHeW CArd
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As fabulous as your backyard is, there are more fabulous places in which to dine alfresco on a summer night in Portland. The usual suspects — Washington Park, Council Crest Park, laurelhurst Park— are always pretty and practical, but we prefer the fringier places, the breathtaking spaces that you might not know about. A tiny bit of effort gets you to a picnic spot where startlingly clear volcano views, gliding herons or the modernist clanging of a working train yard can transform dinner on a blanket into an evening of delicious surprise.
Photography by Holly Andres
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1. Powell Butte Nature Park 16160 S.E. Powell Blvd.
dreamscapes Heading out of your own neighborhood to find a new picnic spot is a very good thing to do. your reward: sweet summer air, friends, food and the discovery of a beautiful bit of Portland you wouldn’t ordinarily visit. We found five places that are every bit as stunning as the grooviest restaurant dining room, and they’re free.
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Wherever you go for your outdoor meal, remember to treat the plants and animals nicely, only picnic where it’s allowed and check to be sure you’ve packed up everything when you leave … no banana peels left in the grass, please.
Park photography by moToyA nAKAmurA
Tucked behind gritty outer Powell Boulevard (at 162nd Avenue — you’ll miss the nondescript entrance if you blink), Powell Butte is a less well known gem in Portland’s broad network of parks. A whopping 608 acres of wooded hills and broad pastureland, Powell Butte was an orchard and cow pasture until Portland purchased it in 1925 for a water reservoir. It was opened to the public in 1990. The undulating fields are roped with gravel and paved trails, most of which are welcome to hikers and bikers. As for picnicking, you have your pick of choice spots. At the top of the mountain View Trail, which snakes up from the parking lot, you can orient your blanket toward any of the sweeping vistas — mount st. Helens and mount Hood are clear as day at this elevation. If you’re lucky, you’ll see raptors floating on thermals or deer nosing about. Amenities are sparse and there isn’t too much near the park (though you could stop at Fubonn Market, 2850 s.e. 82nd Ave., for Asian takeaway), so head out well provisioned.
2. Reed College Canyon Reed College, 3203 S.E. Woodstock Blvd.
Chalk it up to nostalgia, but I think there’s something romantic about college campuses. Woodstock’s reed College has collegiate charm in spades even before you reach its real selling point: the canyon. Bisecting the campus, the 28-acre space includes the restored Crystal springs Creek (which spills into Johnson Creek) and reed lake, the oldest naturally occurring lake in town. The water is spanned by a walkway, which provides an aerial vantage point to watch for the area’s elusive beavers, otters and waterfowl. salmon and eels have been spotted in the water. As for picnicking, choose a cozy spot off one of the numerous trails or sit in the rough-hewn amphitheater that faces the lake. For a bit
more room, head over to the campus’s expansive west lawn, which faces the West Hills. Otto’s Sausage Kitchen and Meat, 4138 s.e. Woodstock Blvd., 503-771-6714, which grills a variety of sausages outdoors during the warmer months, is a quick walk up Woodstock Avenue. The wellstocked Woodstock Wine and Deli Co., 4030 s.e. Woodstock Blvd., 503-777-2208, is even closer and is a terrific place to pick up treats or stop for a quick glass from a well-edited wine collection.
Portland development Commission, who procured the funding for the south Auditorium area. In the warmer months, a crosssection of Portland comes to splash and swim in the shallows at the top of the fountain, making peoplewatching as fun as the picnic itself. make sure to bring a thick blanket — the concrete can grow hard if you sit too long. From the fountain, it’s a quick trip over to Carafe, 200 s.W. market st., 503-248-0004, for a digestif or plate of profiteroles to wrap up your picnic.
3. Mocks Crest Property
5. Smith and Bybee Wetlands Natural Area
2206 N. Skidmore St.
While this north Portland greenspace (tucked into the overlook neighborhood) is officially titled the mocks Crest Property, its unofficial name — the skidmore Bluffs — sounds a lot more compelling. If you consider the Internet buzz, it’s one of the worst kept secrets in town, but don’t let that dissuade you from a visit. This pocket-sized park (a little over half an acre) offers perhaps the best vantage point in town to watch the city at work. rail yards, docks and shipping lanes spread from the bluff ’s bottom outward toward route 30, and the steady action is riveting. Watching the sun set over Forest Park is pretty memorable as well. There’s little on skidmore Bluffs outside of a pair of benches and a sheltering apple tree, but there’s more than enough space to spread the broadest blanket. The bluff drops sharply down without a railing in site, so keep the kiddies in check. While there’s not much close by to pick up incidentals, New Seasons is a short bike ride north, 6400 n. Interstate Ave., 503-467-4777, and mississippi Avenue is a stiff walk away.
4. Ira Keller Fountain Southwest Third Avenue and Clay Street
The geometric slabs of stone and mesmerizing sheets of cascading water (13,000 gallons per minute) make the Ira Keller Fountain a stunning in-town option for picnicking. Built in 1970 and originally called the Forecourt Fountain, it was renamed in 1978 in honor of Ira Keller, the first chairman of the
5300 N. Marine Drive
Found at the northern end of marine drive, smith and Bybee Wetlands natural Area is a quiet alternative to the busy Kelley Point Park a mile or so up the road. At roughly 2,000 acres, it’s the largest protected wetland in an American city, and despite being hemmed in by heavy industry and the airport, the park feels isolated. Croaking frogs and shrieking birds easily drown out all but the loudest airplanes. you’re practically guaranteed to see some of the area’s varied fauna, from all manner of fowl to rare Western painted turtles, mink and otters. Beaver-downed trees are common along the trail. From the parking lot, a paved trail leads into the dense woods that ring the water. The first viewing platform, which is extended out into the wetlands and accessed via a narrow walkway, hovers inches above the water. I could spend hours there in silence watching the herons gliding in and out of the greenery. you might want to bring folding camp chairs for a prolonged visit. If the platform is already occupied, continue down the path and find one of the trails leading toward the water, where small “beaches” offer plenty of room for a quiet meal. definitely bring your own food and drink, as there are no nearby notable provisioners.
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Greek-Style Chicken Kebabs With Herbed Yogurt Dipping Sauce Makes 4 to 6 servings
dream dinners eating a meal close to the earth surrounded by stunning scenery requires food with some soul, so no veggie wraps and chips, oK? spend a little time shopping and cooking to create a real meal; just because you’re eating outdoors doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use a knife and fork. And cloth napkins.
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These four recipes are fabulous but can be made ahead and transported easily. Add some fresh fruit, artisan cheese and bread, something wonderful to drink, maybe some dried figs and good chocolate for dessert, then lie back, look up and watch the stars.
recipe photography by BeTH nAKAmurA
serve the kebabs with pita, leafy greens and tomatoes. The kebabs can be made with white meat, but they won’t store quite as well or be as moist as when made with thighs. For a lebanese twist, substitute 2 tablespoons of zahtar (a thyme, sesame and sumac spice mixture) for the oregano. you can also grill the kebabs rather than broil them.
Chicken: 1½ cups plain whole-milk yogurt 1 serrano chile 4 cloves garlic 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 5 teaspoons kosher salt Juice and zest of 1 lemon ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons packed fresh oregano Cayenne pepper 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat and cut into ¾-inch-wide strips Yogurt dipping sauce: 1½ cups plain whole-milk yogurt 1 clove garlic, minced to paste or grated on microplane grater 1 ⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper or small fresh green chile, seeded and minced
¼ cup minced fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley ¼ cup minced fresh mint salt Granulated sugar (if needed)
To make chicken: In a blender combine yogurt, chile, garlic, sugar, salt, lemon juice and zest, pepper, oil, oregano and cayenne pepper to taste; process until smooth, about 45 seconds. Transfer to nonreactive bowl, add chicken and toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours (and up to 24 hours). Thread chicken onto skewers (if using bamboo skewers, soak in water for at least 1 hour before threading chicken to prevent burning). set oven rack about 5 inches from broiler element and heat. space kebabs evenly on wire rack set on rimmed baking sheet and broil until browned, 4 to 7 minutes. Flip and cook second side until browned and cooked through, about 4 minutes longer. serve immediately or cool and serve with yogurt dipping sauce. To make sauce: Blend all ingredients together in bowl; adjust seasoning with salt and sugar, if needed. Allow to sit at least 30 minutes before serving. makes about 1½ cups.
Lentil and Bulgur Salad With Pomegranate Molasses, Walnuts and Feta Makes 4 to 6 servings
This salad pairs gorgeously with grilled or roasted lamb. Freekah, or roasted green wheat, may be substituted for the bulgur. 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 bay leaf salt 11 cups water (divided) 1 cup lentils du Puy (French green lentils), sorted and rinsed 4 tablespoons vegetable oil (divided) 1 cup coarse-ground bulgur 1 teaspoon cumin seeds ¼ cup lemon juice 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses (see note) 1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper ½ cup chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley 1 cup chopped roasted red bell peppers (from a jar is fine) 3 green onions, root end and tops trimmed, chopped ¼ cup finely chopped rehydrated or oil-packed sundried tomatoes ½ cup walnuts, toasted (see note) 4 ounces feta cheese (preferably Bulgarian), crumbled
Makes 4 to 6 servings
12 eggs ½ cup mayonnaise 1 large clove garlic, minced fine or grated to a paste with microplane grater 2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice Pinch cayenne pepper salt and coarsely ground black pepper ¼ cup pitted and chopped niçoise olives ¼ cup chopped Peppadew peppers 1 tablespoon capers 2 green onions, root end and tops trimmed, chopped ¼ cup thin-sliced fresh basil 1 can (4 to 6 ounces) imported spanish oil-packed tuna (or other high-quality oil-packed tuna), well drained
Clean pot and return to medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and the bulgur; stirring frequently, cook until bulgur is lightly toasted in spots, 3 to 5 minutes. Add 3 cups water, bring to a simmer, and then cover and reduce heat to medium low. Cook until bulgur has absorbed liquid and is tender, 20 to 30 minutes (add additional water 1 tablespoon at a time if needed). spread out in a thin layer on a large plate and refrigerate until cool. Combine cumin, lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, brown sugar and remaining 3 tablespoons vegetable oil in a small bowl. Whisk in olive oil until well blended. Adjust seasoning to taste with salt and black pepper (vinaigrette should be strong and acidic). In large bowl, mix together cooled lentils, bulgur, parsley, red peppers, green onions and sun-dried tomatoes. Fold in dressing and adjust seasoning to taste. stir in walnuts and top with feta just before serving. Note: Pomegranate molasses is available at new seasons markets, Whole Foods and Barbur World Foods. Note: To toast nuts, spread on baking sheet and bake in 350-degree oven for 5 to 8 minutes or until they start to brown. 51
Niçoise Egg Salad serve the salad stuffed into pita or between slices of rustic bread with tomatoes and greens. ortiz brand imported tuna is the best choice (the higher price is well worth it; if you can’t find ortiz, look for another tuna packed in oil). Peppadew peppers are small, pickled red peppers that are moderately spicy and quite sweet. They can be found jarred or next to the olives in many local supermarket olive bars.
In a saucepan combine garlic, bay leaf and 1½ teaspoons salt with 8 cups water; bring to simmer over high heat. Add lentils, reduce heat to medium and simmer until lentils are tender, 20 to 30 minutes. drain well, discard bay leaf, spread out in a thin layer on a large plate and refrigerate until cool.
Carefully place eggs in saucepan and cover by at least 1 inch with water. Bring to simmer over high heat; remove from heat, cover pot, and allow to sit for 10 minutes. drain and cool in cold water; peel and chop coarsely. Whisk together mayonnaise, garlic, lemon juice, cayenne and salt and pepper to taste. Fold in eggs, olives, peppers, capers, green onions and basil. Adjust seasoning to taste, flake tuna over top, and gently fold into egg mixture. serve immediately or chill.
Paprika-and-Thyme-Rubbed Pork Tenderloins With Pickled Red Onions and Blue Cheese Makes 4 to 6 servings
serve with baguettes, Kaiser rolls or olive bread. you can rub the meat with the spice mixture up to two days ahead of time. Because of the sugar content, the spice rub can burn easily, so pay close attention when browning the meat. The pickled onions should be cool, so plan ahead (the flavor will improve as they sit). The tenderloins may also be grilled over a moderately hot fire. The pickled onions will keep indefinitely and have a million delicious uses, from salads and sandwiches to tacos and eggs. The pickling juice itself makes a good base for salad dressings. Spice rub and pork: 4 teaspoons muscovado, demerara sugar or dark brown sugar 4 teaspoons kosher salt 1½ teaspoons spanish smoked paprika, preferably bittersweet, though sweet is fine (see note) 1 tablespoon paprika 1 teaspoon ground fennel seed (optional) 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme 2 pork tenderloins (about 1 pound each) trimmed of excess fat and patted dry 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Pickled red onions: ¾ cup white vinegar 2 tablespoons granulated sugar ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (or 1 fresh serrano or bird’s eye chile, sliced thin) 2 bay leaves
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3 cloves garlic, sliced very thin 3 cloves 1 medium red onion, halved and sliced thin 4 to 6 ounces blue cheese To make spice rub and pork: In small bowl combine sugar, salt, smoked paprika, paprika, fennel and thyme. Place tenderloins on sheet of plastic wrap and coat each thoroughly with spice rub. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours (and up to 2 days). Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat to 350 degrees. Add oil to large ovenproof skillet and heat over medium until shimmering. Add tenderloins and cook until nicely browned all over, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer pan to oven and cook until meat is medium rare, or still pink at the center and registers 130 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, 7 to 10 minutes. set meat on cutting board and allow to rest at least 10 minutes before slicing. serve with pickled red onions and blue cheese, either tucked into sandwiches or accompanied by crusty bread. To make pickled onions: In small saucepan add vinegar, sugar, salt, red pepper flakes, bay leaves, garlic and cloves; bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add onion, return to boil, and cook for 1 minute. Transfer to bowl and refrigerate until cooled. For where to buy, see Shop, Page 82
Note: spanish smoked paprika, also called pimentón de la Vera, comes in three varieties: sweet (dulce), medium-hot or bittersweet (agridulce), and hot (picante). Find smoked paprika at stores that carry a wide selection of gourmet foods or at Penzeys (11322 s.e. 82nd Ave., www.penzeys.com). £
Benefitting
Presented By
Waterfront Park • August 7-9 FOOD • WINE • CRAFT BEER • ENTERTAINMENT
Special Advertising Section
26th
Bite of Oregon
Celebrates ANNIVERSARY
Oregon Culinary Bounty
Food and fun — it’s all here You don’t have to travel far to indulge in Oregon’s finest food, wine, craft beer and entertainment. It will all be in one place Aug. 7-9, when one of the state’s premier culinary festivals — the 2009 Bite of Oregon — fills Portland’s Tom McCall Waterfront Park.
Take a bite of Oregon’s best Nearly 55,000 foodies and wine and craft beer lovers will descend on Portland’s Tom McCall Waterfront Park on Aug. 7-9 for the Bite of Oregon, which benefits Special Olympics Oregon. The 2009 food fest, now in its 26th year, will feature the Iron Chef Oregon competitions, celebrity chef Rock Harper, the Oregon Craft Beer Garden, live music, and tastings of Oregon wine in the MIX Wine Pavilion.
Harper follows in the celebrity footsteps
stage. Harper, winner of the third season
of the Food Network’s Guy Fieri and Cat
of Fox TV’s “Hell’s Kitchen” reality cook-
Cora on The Bite’s chef demonstration
ing show, will share his culinary talents
Special Advertising Section
with Bite attendees.
a panel of judges will select a winner.
Craft beer lovers will be able to sample nearly two dozen craft
Of course, the real stars of the
beers from all corners of Oregon
show are the dozens of res-
— including special seasonals
taurants that will show-off their
and many organic brews usu-
best entrees, side dishes and
ally not available outside their
desserts. Enjoy everything from
regions. The Bite’s MIX Wine
Spanish paella loaded with fresh
Pavilion will feature 38 winer-
Oregon seafood to hot Oregon
ies and more than 100 varietal
marionberry turnovers.
sampling opportunities. The Bite of Oregon, created by The Iron Chef Oregon competi-
festival producer Clay Fuller in
tions began as a chef’s cook-off
1984, has introduced hundreds
at the Bite of Oregon. Over the
of dishes from dozens of new
past five years, it’s popular-
and well-known restaurants,
ity with both chefs and festival
helped promote the Oregon
crowds has grown, but the
wine industry, and, most impor-
format remains similar to the TV
tantly, raised funds for Special
show. Early competitions lead to
Olympics Oregon.
the championship round, where
WINE PAVILLION NOBLE ESTATE VINEYARD & WINERY 29210 Gimpl Hill Rd., Eugene, Oregon 97402 541-338-3007 www.nobleestatevineyard.com Come visit us and judge for yourself! Recent Award Winners: Gold Semi Sparkling Muscat, Late Harvest & Riesling; Silver- Pinot Gris& Chardonnay; Bronze- Merlot, Pinot Noir & Syrah. Award Winning Wines Start at the Vine…
SEUFERT WINERY 415 Ferry Street Dayton, OR 97114 503.709.1255 www.seufertwinery.com
Open Sat-Sun, June-November 12-5pm
Distinctive Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs: Taste how vineyard location, sustainable farming methods, and micro-climates influence our vineyard designated Pinots. Superb wines, great prices, zero pretension.
eufert
Vineyard Designated Pinot Noir www.seufertwinery.com
CLIFF CREEK CELLARS
128 W. Main St. Carlton, OR 503-852-0089 www.cliffcreek.com Offering a focused portfolio of Bordeaux-styled wines 100% sourced from our 70 acre vineyard in the Rogue Valley. These fine wines represent a true expression of the very best Southern Oregon varietals.
EOLA HILLS WINE CELLARS
501 South Pacific Highway 99W Rickreall, OR 97371 800.291.6730
Open daily 10am to 5pm, excluding Thanksgiving and Christmas.
www.eolahillswinery.com Established in 1986, Eola Hills Wine Cellars is one of the largest producers in the state currently producing 22 different wines and 4 dessert wines. Come by and try our famous Sunday Brunch and newest release wines!
SPANGLER VINEYARDS 491 Winery Ln. Roseburg, OR 97470 541-679-9654
Open 11am-5pm daily, except major holidays
www.spanglervineyards.com Try our newest gold medal winners: Cabernet Franc, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve Merlot, Petite Sirah, Unoaked Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and more!
Come sample the finest tastes that Oregon has to offer. Visit these fantastic wineries & restaurants and taste the best of Oregon microbrews. All this & much more at the Bite of Oregon! Please visit biteoforegon.com for full participant list.
WILLAMETTE VALLEY VINEYARDS 8800 Enchanted Way SE Turner, OR 97392 800-344-9463
Tasting Room open 11am-6pm daily
www.willamettevalleyvineyards.com
Recognized as “One of America’s Great Pinot Noir Producers” by Wine Enthusiast Magazine, we invite you to join us in our tasting room for breathtaking views and award-winning wines.”
ARCANE CELLARS 22350 Magness Rd. NW Salem, OR 97304 503-868-7076
Tasting Room open year-round Sat & Sun 12-4pm.
www.arcanecellars.com Come try our award-winning wines: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Pinot Blanc and Cabernetbased blends.
EDENVALE WINERY
2310 Voorhies Road Medford, OR, 97501 541-512-2955 www.edenvalleyorchards.com Our mission is to make wines that reflect the rich terroir of Southern Oregon. Taste our Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, red and white blends.
WANDERING AENGUS CIDERWORKS
6130 Bethel Heights Rd NW Salem, OR 97304 503-361-2400 www.wanderingaengus.com Oregon’s only hard cider crafted from organically grown, true cider apple varieties. Experience the difference true cider apples make; dry, refreshing and highly complex real ciders.
RESTAURANTS PEEMKAEW
323 NW Park Ave Portland, OR 97209 503-621-3164 www.pkthaiinthepearl.com
Open MON – FRI 11AM-3PM and 5PM-9:30 PM, SAT 12 PM-9:30 PM, SUN 4PM-9PM
The Pearl District’s very own authentic Thai cuisine. We use only the freshest ingredients and no MSG’s!
HAYDEN’S LAKEFRONT GRILL
8187 SW Tualatin-Sherwood Rd. Tualatin, OR 97062 503-885-9292 www.haydensgrill.com Southwest’s favorite dining. Lakeside patio, exceptional cuisine and service. Full service catering. Try our famous crab cakes at the Bite!
THE VINTAGE ROOM RESTAURANT AT THE RESERVE VINEYARDS & GOLF CLUB 4805 SW 229th Avenue Aloha, OR 97007 503-848-2986 www.reservegolf.com Westside’s Best Kept Secret! Open 7 days a week for lunch and Tuesday-Sunday for dinner. Fabulous food and beautiful surroundings.
NORTH 45 PUB
517 NW 21st Ave Portland, OR 97209 503-248-6317 www.north45pub.com North 45 is a warm, intimate, upscale pub specializing in great food and drinks. Specialties include mussels and fries, Belgian beer menu, and over 100 whiskies on the wall.
ADDITIONAL VENDORS Restaurants: Adam’s Rib Smoke House Bambuza Vietnamise Bistro Bell Buoy of Seaside Berry-Ka-Bob Boyds Coffee Café California Pizza Kitchen Canby Asparagus Farm Chefs de Cuisine Society of Oregon Greek Cusina H5O Bistro / Hotel Fifty Hayden's Lake Front Grill Hoffman's Dairy Mio Sushi Moonstruck Chocolate Company Noodles and Company Oregon Fruit Products Portlandia Ice Cream Parlor Rafati’s Encore 310 Rogue Ales Public House Standing Stone Brewery Stetson's House of Prime The Rheinlander & Gustav's Pub & Grill
MIX Wine Pavillion: Amity Vineyards Capitello Wines Coelho Winery Chateau Bianca Winery Henry Estate Winery Hillcrest Vineyard Hip Chicks Do Wine La Velle Vineyard Maragas Winery Namasté Vineyards Pheasant Valley Winery Rizzo Winery Silver Falls Vineyards Sweet Cheeks Winery Terra Vina Wines Trinity Vineyards Wheatland Winery Wild Rose Vineyard Witness Tree Vineyard/Elemental Cellars Zerba Cellars North Willamette Vintners Association
Oak Knoll Winery David Hill Winery Sake One Helvetia Winery
European Artisan Wineries of the Umpqua Valley Girardet Wine Cellars & Vineyard Palotai Winery Dundee Hills Winegrowers Association Erath Vineyards Cottonwood Winery Company Stoller Vineyards The Four Graces Sokol Blosser Winery
Craft Brews: BridgePort Brewing Co. Cascade Brewing Deschutes Brewing Full Sail Brewing Co. Hopworks Urban Brewery Henry Wienhard’s Pelican Brewery Pyramid Breweries Raccoon Lodge Brewing Rogue Brewery Standing Stone Brewing Co. Widmer Brothers Brewing
Tasting Room Open Daily 11am-5pm 9409 NE Worden Hill Rd, Dundee OR 97115 Phone: 503-538-3318
Toll Free 800-539-9463
Email: info@Erath.com • www.erath.com
There is a place in Oregon wine country where EARTH and HEART intersect. It’s called ERATH, the original winery of the Dundee Hills of Oregon. www.erath.com
800-539-9463
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K`ma`^o`_ ji oc` qdi`) Velvety in texture and strikingly concentrated, with powerful red berry avors and an explosively sweet berry and oral pastille-dominated ďŹ nish. Really captivating stu, ďŹ nishing with noteworthy purity and length.
Winemaking expresses nature’s gifts to us, creating a unique product capturing time, place and personality. Respect for our environment is as important to us as tending our vines.
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!!!DbuizÖt!Sftfswf!Qjopu!Opjs Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, May/June 2007
SV EStat E Pi n o t n o i r and C h ar don nay CurrEntly !aVailablE
Oregon’s only solar generating, LEED-Gold certified, gravity flow winery
Qipof;!614/975/4515!!!
www.stollervineyards.com
the goods [ Fun gear to help you pack it in ] Compact, unbreakable, sturdy, colorful — these are the words that reassure the picnic packer as she prepares to ship her precious cargo. No leaking, smushing or breaking with these finds, thank you. By SUSAN BRENNAN / PhoToGRAPhy By MoToyA NAkAMURA
Sturdy and snappy, the Lock & Lock stackable, snap-top containers keep foods ultra fresh and don’t warp in the dishwasher. Many sizes and functional elements, such as handles, dividers, mixers and graters. Microwave-safe, $2 to $10.50 at Uwajimaya.
No fear of breaking the bottle of your special reserve while on the go. The PlatyPreserve wine preservation system’s airtight reservoir also protects your wine far longer than an opened glass bottle. When filled, the winecolored “bladder bottle” is free-standing, with an angled spout and label area to record info on the vino. BPA-free, 4-pack, $44.95 at REI.
Lightweight insulated totes, in a variety of (slightly perplexing) juice-pack patterns and sizes. This one is large enough for a family picnic (101⁄2 x 71⁄2 x 121⁄2 inches); free-standing with zip lid and adjustable strap. $38 at Cargo.
A packet of candy-colored, screw-together compact plastic chopsticks in their own snap case. Not that regular chopsticks take up much room, but these are adorable. $9.50 at Uwajimaya.
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For where to buy, see shop Page 82
The brand name — Squishy Bowls — says it all. Collapsible bowl and cup pack into the tiniest spaces and retain their shapes. Made from food-grade silicone, good for hot and cold foods. From Guyot Designs. $14.95 for a bowl-cup set at REI.
Archery Summit - Argyle - Bella Vida - Cottonwood - Crumbled Rock Thistle - Torii Mor - Vista Hills - White Rose - Winderlea - Winter’s Hill
TM
in the Portland Metro Area Join us around Portland for a sampling of what makes Oregon’s Dundee Hills wine region so unique! ~In-store tastings and displays featuring the Dundee Hills AVA~ ~Dundee Hills Winemaker Dinners~ ~Featured Dundee Hills wines & glass pours in restaurants~
The Dundee Hills Wine Experience The Lawrence Gallery, Portland Silent Auction benefiting ¡Salud!
For a full list of events please visit our website. www.dundeehills.org
3 rd A n n u
a l!
Wine Experience
at the Lawrence Gallery in Portland’s Pearl District
Friday, August 28, 2009 6pm - 10pm (doors close at 9pm)
Tickets: $50 (online) $65 (at the door) Includes Riedel Oregon Pinot Noir Glass
For tickets & information visit
www.dundeehills.org
freshest&best Fresh Meat and Seafood
Fine Wines Tastings every Friday and Saturday Huge selection of the best wines in the Northwest 10% off on the purchase of 6 bottles or more Special order discounts on full cases
Fresh Produce We buy local whenever possible First of the season freshness Wide variety of organic items
Watch for details on our 1st Wednesday event night!
Catering trays Huge specialty and gourmet cheese selection Fresh salads and entrees Special occasion custom cakes Fresh breads and pastries
NNW W Co Corrnell R ne d
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for any celebration at Bales Marketplace.
Proud to be locally owned and operated
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Bales Cedar Cedar Mill Mill Bales 12675 NW NW Cornell Cornell Rd Rd • • Portland Portland 12675 503-646-9635 503-646-9635
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Bales Farmington Farmington Bales 17675 SW SW Farmington Farmington Rd Rd • • Aloha Aloha 17675 503-649-8597 503-649-8597
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and cheeses… you’ll find the perfect selection
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The freshest produce and the best wines, meats
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Full-Service Fresh Deli/Bakery
SW SW170th 170th
Weddings · Funerals Special Occasion Flowers Custom arrangements Teleflora services available Party balloon bouquets Custom gourmet food and gift baskets
Snake River Farms American Kobe Beef and American Kurobuta Pork Exquisitely tender and delicious Naturally produced without growth- promoting hormones Source verified Family owned and operated Painted Hills All Natural Beef Raised with extra care by Northwest Ranchers No Added Hormones No Added Antibiotics 100% Vegetarian Diet
SW SW185th 185th
Full-Service Florist and Garden Shop
NW NWSaltzman Saltzman
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Stoller - Sokol Blosser - Lange - The Four Graces - Eyrie - Erath - Dusky Goose
The
August 7-9: The Bite of Oregon Waterfront Park, Portland Benefiting Special Olympics Oregon August 28:
Dusky Goose - Erath - Eyrie - The Four Graces - Lange - Sokol Blosser - Stoller
The Heart & Soil of Oregon Wine
Daedalus - De Ponte - Dobbes - Domaine Drouhin - Domaine Serene
Dundee Hills
August Wine Showcase
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Bales Marketplace Marketplace Bales 19133 Willamette Willamette Dr. Dr. • • West West Linn Linn 19133 503 635-6281 635-6281 503
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[ Adam Arnold: Designs clothes, bakes crumpets ]
By NaNcy RommelmaNN photogRaphy By Beth NakamuRa
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WINGS
Rated “Clucktacular” —Grant Butler, A&E
Best In Portland! Sandwiches & Salads, too. Now two Locations: 1708 E. Burnside Ave. 503.230.WING (9464) 4225 N. Interstate Ave. 503.280.WING (9464)
w w w.por tlandwings.com
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he most highly desired haute couture models are said to be “beautiful-ugly,” their looks not conventionally pretty and yet arresting. I have a similar experience when I see portland fashion designer adam arnold in a corner booth at Niki’s Restaurant. arnold, 36, is all beauty: auburn hair cut in a prince Valiant style, a gold-capped incisor, and his own made-to-measure clothes, including the most exquisitely cut blue jeans, part stovepipe, part cowboy. the beautiful-ugly part is Niki’s, a diner that appears not to have had a cosmetic update since it opened in 1972 — and is all the more affecting for it: the accordion doors, the long Formica counter, the kind of lighting that makes you want to drowse over a cup of coffee. the showroom where arnold makes and sells his work is two blocks away, and the designer many consider to be portland’s best eats lunch here as often as twice a week. a friendly waitress knows his order: grilled cheese with tomato, French fries. MIX: Niki’s looks as though it could be Anywhere, USA, but with a more vivid clientele. Did you see the dress that guy was wearing? It was the color of a flamingo. AA: Stunning. It’s a very colorful corridor, this part of morrison, on the southeast side of the bridge. I don’t drive — I ride my bike everywhere — so I eat around here. the biggest beef I have is everyone vacates at 3 p.m. there’s nowhere to eat after that.
MIX: What about Bunk? That’s a block away. AA: I like Bunk but they don’t have much ventilation in there and so when you leave, your clothes smell like grease and fried food. I think it’d be sort of weird to have someone come to me and order clothes with me smelling like catfish. MIX: How long have you been sewing and did you know it would lead to a career? AA: I started sewing 20 years ago. I grew up in Vancouver; I
was living in my parents’ basement and I would go out every night dancing. I’d get up in the morning and think who I wanted to be that night. this was the early ’90s, lots of glitter and disco. people would see what I was wearing and say, “Wow, you should be a clothing designer!” MIX: The clothes you design for men and women are pretty far from disco. The lines are so clean, so functional. They look expensive and yet they do not shout, ever. AA: good design is something that fits into your life. It doesn’t draw attention to itself, except that it’s made well and it fits you. how’s your turkey sandwich? MIX: It’s good. I especially like that the French dressing on the salad is the orange kind. You so rarely see that anymore. And what are you doing with your fries? AA: Well, I put stripes of mustard on the ketchup, and then I roll the French fry lengthwise. [he holds up a red-and-yellow striped fry.] MIX: An artist even when it comes to your food. AA: oh, I love food, and I do get obsessed with it. anything that’s salty and snack-y, capers and crackers and cheese and olives; I go to Sheridan Fruit co. and buy tons of stuff. I also bake a lot — scones, pies and bread. I do it when I take a break. I have a Betty crocker cookbook from 1965 with no cover. Sometimes I’ll really get into something. Right now, it’s crumpets. you cook them on a griddle, in a ring, but they’re really fussy and touchy. I eat these with butter and ginger-grapefruit marmalade. I’m also obsessed right now with eating kettleman salt
bagels, toasted with a thin spread of plain cream cheese and mango chutney — it’s salty and hot and sweet. MIX: You have solo shows each spring and fall here in Portland. What do your models eat? AA: What always sticks in my mind is one time when I was in New york. Nordstrom had just gone public, and they commissioned me to make ball gowns for their models out of their shopping bags. I did; the models paraded around the floor of the stock exchange in them, and later, we all wound up at Veselka. MIX: In the East Village, home of pierogi and blintzes and scrambled eggs with lox and challah bread French toast. AA: exactly, and here’s this one model — still in her gown — and she’s eating a plate of sliced tomatoes. In my head, that’s what I see: the only things models put in their mouths are sliced tomatoes. and cigarettes. £ Adam Arnold (by appointment only) 727 S.E. Morrison St. 503-234-1376 adam-arnold.com
new summer tasting menu reservations: 503 517 7770 www.selgrisrestaurant.com
BARSTOOL
extreme
clearance
40-60% off A L L IN STOCK
Niki’s Restaurant 736 S.E. Grand Ave. 503-232-7777 6:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday Sheridan Fruit Co. 409 S.E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 503-236-2113 Veselka 144 Second Ave., at Ninth Street New York, N.Y. 212-228-9682 veselka.com
“The only things models put in their mouths are sliced tomatoes. And cigarettes.”
PA S T E L TRICA BERMEX BERKLINE
12675 S.W. Canyon Road, Beaverton 503.646.6409 ludemans.com
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eat here/astoria [ Genuinely good food, and the occasional sunset ]
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BY GRANT BUTLER / PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIAN LEE
lot of towns along the Oregon coast have a pretty high kitsch factor, with shop after shop shilling myrtle wood carvings and souvenir shot glasses. But Astoria is the genuine deal: A hardworking fishing and shipping town at the mouth of the Columbia River, where good taste isn’t limited to what’s on restaurant menus. There’s culture aplenty at the historic Liberty Theatre downtown. The streets are lined with beautiful Victorian homes that are so picturesque the city has played backdrop for numerous Hollywood movies (including the ’80s cult favorite “The Goonies”). And there are so many terrific dining spots that you could stay here for four or five days and never repeat a place — or have a meal at a chain. And visiting during summertime has an added dividend: One of the rainiest places in the state gets a warm-weather reprieve from soggy weather. You may even catch a sunset over the Pacific like I did, something that even the locals don’t see very often. FISH & CHIPS
Bowpicker Fish & Chips 17th and Duane streets, across from the Columbia River Maritime Museum bowpicker.com 11 a.m.-6 p.m. daily Before hitting the highway back to Portland, take a pit stop at this one-time fishing boat that’s charted a new course as the fry stand for Astoria’s best fish and chips. (OK, it’s kind of kitschy.) Once you climb on deck, you’ve really only got two choices: a $7 half order with three pieces of lightly beer-battered albacore, or a $9 full order, with five pieces of the perfectly fried fish. They arrive on a bed of thick-cut steak fries, along with sides of ketchup and tartar sauce for dipping. If you fancy malt vinegar, there’s an array of different bottles for dousing fillets. Dig into it at one of the outdoor picnic tables — or huddle in your car if the weather doesn’t cooperate.
NORTHWEST POTLATCH
Bridgewater Bistro 20 Basin St. 503-325-6777 bridgewaterbistro.com 11:30 a.m.-close daily, Sunday brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. This 1896 waterfront building, right at the base of the mammoth Astoria-Megler Bridge, was once the offices and repair shop for an adjacent salmon cannery. But it’s been beautifully transformed into Astoria’s most dramatic dining rooms, where seafood takes a starring role. After a starter of perfectly grilled chile-lime prawns with honey-lime aioli, settle into the $23 Northwest Potlatch, an Asian spin on fisherman’s cioppino. A spicy fish stock loaded with lemon grass, ginger and garlic infuses flavor into prawns, mussels, scallops, clams and bite-size hunks of sautéed salmon. At other times of year, delicacies such as Dungeness crab might find their way into the mix, as the kitchen takes advantage of what’s fresh and seasonal. Savor each bite as night descends on the Columbia.
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eat here /astoria CoNt.
SPEDINI
SAUSAGE SAMPLER
Fulio’s Pastaria 1149 Commercial St. 503-325-9001 fulios.com 11 a.m.-close daily
Fort George Brewery & Public House 1483 Duane St. 503-325-7468 fortgeorgebrewery.com 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday, noon-midnight Sunday
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Any serious food town needs a great microbrewery, and Astoria has one with Fort George. Housed in a one-time auto repair shop built on the original settlement site for the city, the bright dining room looks into the brewing facility, which includes equipment that was almost destroyed by a tornado in Nebraska while making the crosscountry journey from Virginia. The near calamity inspired the name for the India pale ale, Vortex IPA, which is the perfect drink to go with the $13.50 sausage sampler, which includes four links of different kinds of homemade sausage, along with flatbread and cheese. The sausages include a hot and a sweet style of Italian sausage, both studded with plenty of fennel seeds, a sausage that’s loaded with roasted garlic and basil, and a daily special sausage that changes with the seasons and the whims of the kitchen. This takes the concept of beer and brats to a whole new level.
SMOKED SALMON CREPES Silver Salmon Grille 1105 Commercial St. 503-338-6640 silversalmongrille.com 11 a.m.-close daily
Astoria has a rich history, and the 120-year-old antique bar in the ultra-cool lounge of this seafood house has seen plenty of it. The ornate beauty, which is made out of Scottish cherry wood, arrived in the Northwest in the 1880s after making a perilous sea journey around Cape Horn. First it was used in a hard-drinking bordello before finding its way to this space in the 1950s. Sitting at the bar, you can drink in the history, along with a glass of the house label wine (made exclusively for the Grille by Maryhill Winery farther up the Columbia), while enjoying the light taste of a pair of crepes filled with house-smoked salmon and lobster sauce, topped with melted Swiss cheese and slices of Roma tomatoes. At just $10.95, it’s a refreshing lunch that’s easy on the wallet.
When chef Peter Roscoe ran the long-since closed Portland restaurant Cozze, he was known for re-creating the fancy meal served in the movie “Big Night.” Now, every night’s a big night at his old-school Italian restaurant, which is decorated with Italian clown masks and dolls, and features a sound system purring out Verdi and Puccini arias as well as Italian pop songs. (OK, this place has a touch of kitsch, too.) Mario Lanza would love the mood, and Marcella Hazan would probably dig the food, especially the starter of Spedini, a house specialty. Rounds of homemade mozzarella are skewered with slices of baguette, then baked until the bread crisps. It’s then doused in a buttery garlic sauce that’s studded with capers and diced tomatoes. When the waitress delivers the dish, she delivers extra bread to lap up all the sauce and warns you that no one ever wants to share this dish. Take her advice and order one all for yourself.
Cherry fritter at Danish Maid Bakery: One morning I popped into this old-fashioned doughnut shop and ran into the chef who had made the previous evening’s meal. He said he gets a cherry fritter almost every day, and for good reason: The crunchy surface is covered with a crackling sugar glaze with the lightest suggestion of cherry flavoring in the chewy batter. (1132 Commercial St.; 503-325-3657) £
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Bond St
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Marine Drive
Hume Ave
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>>>>>>>>> Portland’s Food + Drink Scene
Ginger-chocolate cookies at Blue Scorcher Bakery Cafe: Imagine a cross between a double-chocolate cookie and a ginger snap. It’s chewy, decadent and a complete surprise on the palate. (1493 Duane St.; 503-338-7473; bluescorcher.com)
: VISIT MIXPDX.COM
Espresso macchiato at Astoria Coffeehouse: Stumptown beans are transformed into utter perfection with a perfect shot of espresso topped with a dollop of milk foam. Pair it with a homemade cupcake for a midafternoon pick-me-up. (243 11th St.; 503-325-1787; astoriacoffeehouse.com)
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You’ll need plenty of fuel to keep you going between meals, particularly if you’re hiking trails around Fort Clatsop or climbing the steps of lighthouses at nearby Cape Disappointment.
idg Br ia tor As
Grab-and-go Astoria finds
101 �
Downtown Astoria Marketplace
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Bowpicker Fish & Chips Beer Battered Albacore Tuna And Steak Fries! Firm chunks of Albacore Tuna, Lightly and perfectly beer battered by Ron, Linda & family stand ready to soak up malt vinegar or scoop tartar sauce. Our thick steak fries are crunchy outside and tender inside, much more than just a side dish. Wednesday thru Sunday 11 - 6. Opening 7 days/wk around July thru the summer.
Blue Scorcher Bakery & Café Blue Scorcher is an organic artisan bakery, creating handcrafted breads, pastries and seasonal foods. Everything is made fresh from scratch using the highest quality ingredients. From our local eggs and honey to our flour milled in Portland. Honest, delicious food that makes you feel good. We are located in beautiful Astoria on the east side of downtown. Stop by for breakfast, lunch or tea.
1636 Duane (17th St & Duane St) Astoria 503.325.3731 www.bowpicker.com
1493 Duane Street, Astoria 503-338-7473 www.bluescorcher.com
Fulio’s Pastaria Tuscan Steak House & Deli Fulio’s captures the essence of Italy with its food, service, and setting. 1149 Commercial Street, Astoria 503-325-9001 www.fulios.com 4
Astor Street Opry Company The 25th Season of SHANGHAIED IN ASTORIA sponsored by our local FRED MEYER STORE. July 9th thru September 12th 2009 Thursday to Saturday 7:30pm, Selected Sundays 2pm. Tickets at the door but reservation recommended. Tickets $16 to $20. ASOC Playhouse 129 West Bond Street, Astoria Call Now for tickets 503.325.6104 www.astorstreetoprycompany.com
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Tokugawa Antiques Welcome to the world of Japanese, American and European antiques. Come visit our showroom in Astoria and explore our array of authentic 19th and 20th century furniture, small boxes, textiles, bronze figures, pottery, and folk crafts. We bring 30 years of experience in the antiques business, the last 5 of those years importing containers of fine merchandise from Japan. Open Monday - Saturday, 11-5 303 Marine Drive, Astoria 503.325.2577 www.tokugawaantiques.com
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New in the Pearl
Celebrate summer with a glass of wine!
W
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EXPAND YOUR PALETTE
ONLINE
Y
Summer Fest August 8, 2009 11am - 5pm
Bistro Burger Bar
Makes you feel young again
• live music • • local artists • • great food • • spectacular wine •
$10 Tasting Fee
Create your own flight 18365 NE Fairview Drive Dundee, OR 97115 800-839-5004 www.toriimorwinery.com
Candy’s Sweet $3
Happy Hour
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dailyastorian.com/menuguide
1303 NE Fremont St. 503.249.5001 Wednesday Lunch 11:30-2:30 Dinner Mon-Sat 5-10 pm Sun 4-9 pm www.creolapdx
Pizza • Burgers • Dessert
New Expanded “Healthy” Summer Menu Lunch 11-3 Happy Hour 3-7 Dinner 7-10
this online guide gives you a mouth-watering menu of choices on Oregon’s north coast and southwest Washington • Visit our Virtual Coastal Menu Guide online • Turn through virtual pages • Click on direct links to restaurant websites • View and download entire menus • Access additional information
Cheap Eats Night Every Monday 5-10 pm Ten Entrees Under $10
A New Orleans Bistro fresh, local, organic Produce • Meats • Fresh Seafood Artisan Breads & Cheeses Local Oregon Wines Full Service Deli & Catering
Natural
31 NW Ninth Ave
In the Pearl – Corner of 9th and Couch
503.227.0651
Food Store 251 N. Third Street McMinnville, OR 503.472.5740
www.HarvestFresh.com
Pickup Your BOX LUNCH While touring the Oregon Wine Country!
SelectS/ Willamette valley pin0t griS
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pinot gris may be easy-drinking, but it’s not so easy to grow. the grape is labor-intensive, needing major pruning — happening here in ponzi Vineyards’ aurora vineyard — to keep yields low and fruit quality high.
inot gris moves, but we’re not exactly moved by it. and we like it that way. let me elaborate: pinot gris is oregon’s second most-important wine grape and most successful white wine, enjoying healthy sales worldwide. But while oregon gris can be delightful, it isn’t super-special in the way pinot noir can be. it tends to be a delicious — but not quite exquisite — white wine that works with a wide variety of foods. we don’t have a problem with that. hand us a glass of gris at a cocktail party or a luncheon and we’ll happily sip it. will we stop and ponder over it? no. will it take our breath away in the way that a wondrous pinot noir sometimes does? not a chance. By katherine cole / photograph By ross william hamilton
SelectS cont. Catering Delivery Passengers
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But at times, all we want in a wine is an easy affability. sometimes we just want to sit down with a late-summer salad and something off the grill and a chilled glass of white that we can savor absent-mindedly as we enjoy the evening. sometimes we don’t want to feel compelled to contemplate wine. and this is the very reason we love pinot gris. THE STANDARD-BEARERS two local wineries have set the willamette Valley’s signature gris style. the first is the eyrie Vineyards, which produced the first american pinot gris way back in 1970. the eyrie’s gris is bone dry and creamy in texture, with notes of minerality, almonds and pears. king estate in eugene is the state’s most prolific producer of pinot gris; retail shops and restaurants across the nation and world carry this wine. its style is more ebullient: slightly spritzy on the palate and bursting with juicy fruit flavors such as ripe melon and citrus. Both wines successfully strike a balance between the lightness of an italian pinot grigio and the richness of an alsatian pinot gris. (see below for more about the alsatian and northern italian styles.) Because we know these two classics so well, we didn’t include them in our blind tasting of more than 20 willamette Valley pinot gris. we wanted to get a sense of what else was out there.
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when we tasted through our lineup, we were put off by a few contenders that seemed to try too hard. they smacked of barrel-aging, acidification and offdryness. they didn’t fit with our
ideal of fresh, bright pinot gris purity. we wondered if some of these egregious gris had been made from over- or under-ripe fruit that had arrived from the vineyard in sub-par condition and had been subjected to a lot of fiddling behind winery doors. or perhaps they’d been made from perfectly tasty fruit that had simply been overdressed. we come to gris looking for casual enjoyment, but these wines were all dolled up for the prom. “pinot gris can be really light and refreshing, but some of these wines we tasted tonight were on the heavier side,� observed panelist grant Butler. “it seems like that is not a style that is going to appeal to people, especially if they are just beginning to explore wine.� By contrast, the wines we preferred tasted like fresh, ripe fruit and not much else. instead of descriptors like “nuts,� “smoke� and “candy,� we found ourselves referring to pears, peaches, white flowers and a cornucopia of melons and citrus. For us, locally grown gris should conjure the aromas and flavors of those sun-kissed fruits that reach their peak in late summer and early autumn, which is why now is a terrific time to sip it. WHAT WE LOVED happily, our taste buds led us to wines with relatively moderate prices. the most expensive gris, in the $20 to $25 range, were the ones that tasted over-manipulated to us. it appears that all of that superfluous work in the winery ends up costing the consumer more. all of our winners came from the 2007 or just-bottled 2008 vintage; the 2006s we tried struck us as stale and past their prime. Despite what some vintners might claim about the aging ability of willamette Valley
It’s Time To Start Eating Better DIxIE HuEy proprietor of trellis wine consulting, www.trelliswine consulting.com DARRyL JOANNIDES owner of cork * a Bottle shop, corkwineshop.com MIMI MARTIN AND ADAM RHyNARD co-owners of the wine and spirit archive educational center, wineandspiritarchive.com GRANT BuTLER the oregonian’s critic-at-large KATHERINE COLE wine columnist for the oregonian
For where to buy, see Shop, page 82
BEST VALuE/BEST OVERALL 2007 Cloudline Oregon Pinot Gris ($14.75) we all loved this lighter-bodied wine for its delicacy and balanced, crisp acidity. Freesia and lavender aromas combined with flavors of kiwi, pineapple, peach and grapefruit kept us coming back for more sips. “hell of a value,” declared Dixie huey. “sings brunch!” grant Butler riffed on this theme, suggesting food matches such as berries in cream, a veggie frigate or — most memorably — a pineapple upside-down cake. CLASSIC GRIS 2008 Chehalem 3 Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($19) we must have simple tastes, because we liked this better than chehalem’s reserve pinot gris, which costs $5 more. we all appreciated this wine’s minerality, clean acidity and citrus notes; huey and i both noticed a mint-basil character that made us want to match it with summer produce from the garden or farmers market. Darryl Joannides swooned over it, declaring this wine had more texture and layers than its peers. “it’s a very good-quality example of an oregon pinot gris,” summed up adam rhynard.
Breakfast Lunch Happy Hour
A GRIS TO GRILL WITH 2007 Four Graces Dundee Hills Pinot Gris ($15) rhynard loved the “smoky nose, minerality and earthiness” of this “spicy” gris, calling it “character-full.” i found it robust, with hazelnuts on the nose and minerality and white pepper on the palate. Butler praised its “supple, rounded mouth feel” and ripe notes of apricot, peaches and cantaloupe, deciding that “this would be a great grilled-chicken wine.” Joannides concurred that “it has the weight to take on big flavors.” and at $15, it’s the right price.
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LATE-SuMMER SALAD SIPPER 2008 Ponzi Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($16) as soon as she tasted the ponzi, huey was sharing the recipe for her favorite late-summer/early-autumn salad (warm pears, blue cheese, walnuts, toasts, butter lettuce). we all agreed this was a salad wine because of its light spritzy body and piquant notes of herbs, ginger, orange zest, mango and pear. FLAIR FOR ASIAN FARE 2007 Soléna Oregon Pinot Gris ($18) Butler declared that this rich, creamy white “would be really good with something like spicy asian food” and the rest of us concurred, mentioning chinese and thai as possible pairings. (i even got a whiff of chinese dumplings off the nose!) rhynard complimented its “orange-blossom” aroma, and we all noticed notes of ripe melon. But mimi martin declared this hedonistic style of gris to be “too rich for me.” HONORABLE MENTION: PINOT GRIS APERITIF 2008 Elk Cove Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($19) while a couple of us didn’t care for this one, Joannides called it “clean and classic” and huey deemed it “delicious,” citing notes of flowers, cantaloupe, white peaches and orange zest plus a peppery finish. “there’s something delicate about it,” observed martin. “the fruit is cooler, with crisp apple and pear. the body is lighter, with some bright acidity.”
Local Sustainable Comfortable
3rd and washington Downtown Portland 2797719V01
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SelectS cont. gris, we find this wine for the most part to be most enjoyable in its youth. the surprise find of the night was discovering that our favorite bottle was also the least expensive of our winners. it came from cloudline cellars, a second label produced by the esteemed Domaine Drouhin oregon. the 2007 is only cloudline’s third pinot gris vintage, but tasting it, we wondered if DDo (whose only white is a chardonnay) ought to get into gris production under its own label. “it’s a brighter style but it is still reflective of the grape variety,” observed mimi martin. “it has the type of acidity that is refreshing and crisp and cleans the palate.” indeed, the cloudline was ethereally light alongside its peers, displaying an effortless simplicity that we found deeply satisfying. this wine didn’t try to do too much and didn’t ask us to think too hard. and that, for us, is pinot gris perfection.
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pinot gris is a genetic mutation of pinot noir, making it something like a fraternal twin to the ruby-hued darling of oregon winemaking. so it’s well suited to the growing conditions of the willamette Valley. But instead of Burgundy (French pinot noir country), the epicenter of pinot gris in France is alsace, the cool northeastern region where volcanic soils and dry, sunny autumns create powerfully spicy, viscous, sometimes slightly sweet gris. these rich wines
pair well with hearty local fare such as pork and potatoes. the cool and mountainous wine regions of northern italy produce boatloads of crisp, dry, lemony pinot grigio, perfect for washing down delicate seafood dishes and herbaceous pesto. (as you’ve surely deduced by now, “grigio” and “gris” mean the same thing: gray. this refers to the grayish tint of the ripe grape skins.) you’ve probably stumbled across santa margherita, the faddish italian white that sparked the pinot grigio rage in the U.s. some two decades ago. consistently topping the popularity charts in american wine sales, santa margherita is a crisp and innocuous white that goes well with lots of foods. But is a bottle worth the $20-plus it sells for today? even more shocking, the average per bottle price for santa margherita in restaurants is $52 — highway robbery, really — according to a poll recently conducted by wine & spirits magazine. with santa margherita opening the price door so wide, other pinot grigios and pinot gris have begun to follow suit, charging — in our opinion — more per bottle than their wine is really worth. Unfortunately, pinot gris is nearly as labor-intensive to grow here in the willamette Valley as is pinot noir: the vines must be pruned down to produce approximately three tons of fruit per acre for good wine. so while we aren’t interested in spending more than $20 for a bottle of gris, we also aren’t sure we could find anything we’d like for less than $14. £
pub crawl
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Oregon Beer Festival owner Art Larrance (center) won’t get serious about his event, which is why after 22 years, it’s still amazing. Ron Gansberg, Raccoon Lodge brewer (left), and Chris Crabb, who handles PR for the festival, are part of the core team for the event.
[ Why won’t the Oregon Brewers Festival act its age? ] BY JOhn FOYsTOn PhOTOGRAPh BY MOTOYA nAkAMuRA
ne of the many great things about Oregon’s oldest, biggest beer festival is that it doesn’t act that way. In fact, the Oregon Brewers Festival is probably the largest outdoor beer festival on the continent — a sprawling, family-friendly behemoth that draws brewers and beer tourists from around the world, pumps millions into Portland’s economy and is the crowning event of Oregon Craft Beer Month. Begun in 1988, this the 22nd edition of the festival, which happens July 23-26 at Tom McCall Waterfront Park. You might expect a festival of that rank and size — 60,000 to 80,000 visitors and more than 2,000 volunteers — to be a bit starchy: you know, official communications, executive directors, gleaming office suites and all the rest. But the Oregon Brewers Festival remains happily true to its roots as an Oregon beer festival; a meeting with its leaders does not involve sitting across from a bunch of suits over a teak conference table while listening to the latest in corporate argle-bargle.
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were just swamped,” Widmer said. “I look back now and think, ‘Wasn’t that fun?’ But at the time it was just total chaos. We didn’t have a tent — just totally gambled on the weather, and I asked a bunch of friends to come down and pour beer.” Widmer sold the gig as a couple of hours of light labor, followed by a languid afternoon of sipping beer in Waterfront Park. Instead, his friends were slammed for hours straight and finally stumbled away from their empty, foaming taps footsore, dehydrated and sunburned. Other fledgling Oregon brewers such as karl Ockert, Rob Widmer and John harris, who was working for the month-old Deschutes Brewery at the time, helped keep the beer flowing at that first festival. Widmer told harris that Deschutes need bring only one keg for the weekend. Instead, harris grabbed every keg he could, which was three. They were empty by 3 p.m. saturday. he called brewery owner Gary
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have to go back and load another 10 or 11 kegs in my pickup and drop them off at the waterfront — where they’d be out of beer again and I’d have to make another run.” “nobody knew anything about how to run a beer festival,” Peetz said. “We had seven little beer trailers and one guy trying to make everything work — me.” “We thought that a festival was a way to raise awareness of our beers without spending advertising money we didn’t have,” said kurt Widmer, whose Widmer Brothers Brewing Co. was just three years old in 1988. “We figured we might even make a little money selling beer.” Widmer, nancy Ponzi (who owned BridgePort Brewing Co. with her husband, Dick Ponzi) and Art Larrance, who was then with Portland Brewing, contacted every small brewery they could find in the region — 13, or about a third the number of the breweries and brewpubs now in the Portland area alone. “I don’t know if we even had gates, but when they opened, we
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Razberry Wheat ale, “that’s pretty nope, meetings, such as they are, happen at a picnic table well much been the philosophy from Day One. Art and I complement each supplied with beer pitchers and pint glasses on the barbecue patio in the other in terms of ideas and impleback 40 of the Raccoon Lodge brew- mentation — Art has the ideas and I make ’em work. We’re each 65 and pub in Raleigh hills, and shorts and T-shirts are far more likely than we agreed to keep doing this and bring these younger folks in.” suits. Oh, Art Larrance — who owns “And it needs to be said here that the festival and the Raccoon Lodge — probably owns a suit or two, but the festival couldn’t happen without our volunteers,” Crabb said. “We you couldn’t prove it by me, and I’ve have 2,000 this year, and some of known him for almost 20 years. them have been coming back each Teddy Peetz, who’s been the fesyear for years, like the group of tival’s boots on the ground for its whole history, is wearing an appropri- northwest Airlines flight attendants that lays over in Portland and works ate T-shirt: Oregon Brewers Festival the festival on their time off.” — Captain. Peetz and Larrance along “I’ve got people who’ve worked with Chris Crabb, whom most in the for me pouring beer for 17 or 18 Oregon beer business will tell you years,” Peetz said. “That first fesis the best PR/media relations person ever; and beer wrangler Preston tival in 1988, we didn’t want to buy Oregonian - festival’s Mix Magazine Admany kegs because the festival too Weesner make up the paid was brand-new and craft beer was staff. 4.25” The management hierarchy is W x 5.3” H 9 / 2 / 2008 just getting started in Portland, and as fluid as the meeting agendas. we didn’t want to get stuck with a “Git ’er done, as long as it’s bunch of unsold beer. We thought legal,” said Peetz, as we all sipped we’d sell 16 kegs of beer and we acpints of brewer Ron Gansberg’s tually sold 76 — so they were constantly running out of beer, and I’d
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Fish and asked him to round up and fill every corny (a type of 5-gallon mini-keg). Fish brought nine cornies from Bend to slake Portland’s thirst, and they were soon dry, too. “We were working out of little cooler boxes and we had all sorts of problems with beer getting warm and foamy,� said Larrance. “We had a pretty steep learning curve, and it started with learning how to dispense beer and how to organize volunteers.� Larrance bought up the interest in the festival from the other breweries in the late 1990s, though the Widmer brewery still handles all the beer shipped to the festival and makes a one-off special brew for each OBF. Though the festival has had some dodgy years since, such as the sweltering hot 1998 festival when construction turned normally verdant Tom McCall park into a sort of Dust Bowl simulator, it has evolved steadily into one of the premier events on the craft brewing calendar.
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“We brew great beers here, but I’d hate for Oregon to lose its edge.� The Great American Beer Festival has 1,800 beers compared with the OBF’s 80, but the Denver festival isn’t a place you’d take the family (though the OBF can get crowded and a bit rowdy on a saturday night). Also, the Great American Beer Festival happens in the fall in a concrete convention hall jammed wall-to-wall with T-shirted beer geeks, not in a park on a glorious late July weekend with riverine breezes a-wafting. Winning gold, silver or bronze at the Great American Beer Festival is a big deal for any brewer; in best laid-back Oregon fashion, the OBF doesn’t award medals. “It’s very different from Denver in that way, and it’s one of the reasons that the festival has grown and evolved,� Larrance said. “We’ve always tried to come at it with a brewer’s mentality, not a promoter’s.�
“The celebration of great beer is very important,� Crabb said, “because Portland is so beer savvy. People ask why we don’t jury entries and hand out awards, but it doesn’t work with a festival this size, and awards aren’t the point.� The festival keeps evolving because Larrance, Peetz and crew are good at fixing what’s busted and letting the rest grow. This year, they’ll have eight refrigerated tap trailers, up from six previously, so they’ll be able to pour 80 beers plus Widmer Collaborator. They’ve also created a Buzz Beer tent where a dozen or more of the festival brewers will have their beers pouring throughout Friday and saturday and Crabb even hopes to send out on-tap alerts via Twitter. Larrance sees the festival as a teachable moment as well as a quaffable one, a way to keep Oregonians in touch with the great beers being brewed beyond the Evergreen Curtain. Last year, he sent letters of congratulations to all the 2007 Great American Beer Festival
winners — and application forms for the OBF. “We brew great beers here,â€? Larrance said, “but I’d hate for Oregon to lose its edge, and bringing in the best of the rest of the country is a good way to keep everybody inspired and creative.â€? ÂŁ This year’s festival starts with the Brewers Brunch and Parade at 10 a.m. Thursday, July 23, at McCormick & Schmick’s Pilsner Room, 0309 S.W. Montgomery St. Brunch tickets cost $30 and are limited, but even if you didn’t get a ticket, you can join the parade at 11:30 a.m. Oregon Brewers Festival, noon-9 p.m. Thursday July 23-Saturday July 25, noon-7 p.m. Sunday July 26; free admission, tasters packages are $10, $20 and $50 and include required tasting mug. Additional tasting tokens are $1 each. Tokens from previous years are honored, but previous tasting mugs will not be filled. Info at www.oregonbrewfest.com/
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scene
Our picks for what to eat where
Bargain Bites Bar Mingo 811 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-445-4646 $$ For 22 years, chef Jerry Huisinga helped the legendary Genoa rule Portland’s restaurant scene, but he flew under the radar working behind the scenes as the pasta guy (a Genoa signature dish) and the enforcer who made others do it right. Now he runs his own show — at a fraction of Genoa’s price of admission. As kitchen honcho at this spinoff of Caffe Mingo next door, Huisinga cooks homey Italian with an obsessive’s heart, making everything by hand, from sausages to ricotta. This is not lost on regulars who love the food, the prices and the casually stylish comfort found at handsome marble tables, a 22-footlong bar and couches in the front lounge. The stars of the blackboard menu are the hot and cold antipasto, amply portioned at $8 (or three for $21), including sweet, rich sausage with polenta and the best sautéed calamari around. Not to
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COMPILED BY Grant Butler
Garden State
CONTRIBUTORS Karen Brooks Grant Butler Danielle Centoni Teri Gelber Shawn Levy Christina Melander Roger Porter David Sarasohn Shawn Vitt Michael C. Zusman PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL LLOYD
mention three homemade pastas ($11-$15), perhaps pappardelle in braised-meat sauce or a big-flavored lasagna. The Italian wine list is full of fairly priced selections. You’ll find better desserts elsewhere, but it’s hard to find service this friendly and gracious anywhere. Biwa 215 S.E. Ninth Ave. 503-239-8830 $-$$ Izakaya is the right food for these small-plate-loving times: casual and communal, adventurous and very affordable. No wonder Japanese pub style is a rising phenom in the food world, and Biwa is a fine place to get a taste of it. Owners Gabe Rosen and Kina Voelz, who lived and studied in Japan, have created a Portland-style izakaya complete with recycled Doug fir booths, a cool reading rack and candlelight galore. The counter is a great place to catch the yakitori action — grilled skewers for a mere $3-$4, from chicken hearts to shiitakes. The midsize menu offers izakaya classics and Japanese comfort foods, $6-$12. Kara-age, babysize fried chicken sided by hot mustard, is its own Fuji mountain high, and salads, like fresh pears with radishes, sparkle with simplicity. Chennai Masala 2088 N.W. Stucki Ave., Hillsboro 503-531-9500 $-$$ If you can get over its stripmall setting and the cold, hard tables and chairs within, Chennai Masala will reward you with adventurous Indian cooking. Although you’ll find northern specialties such as rogan josh, the extensive menu focuses on the complex, often fiery flavors of southern India, from Hyderabad’s biryanis with spiced meat to Goa’s vindaloo. Cinnamon, cardamom, coconut milk and chiles are hallmarks of this region’s food, and the nuanced curries here reveal how careful preparation makes one dish taste entirely different from the next.
scene Skip the forgettable samosas and start with ghee paper roast ($9.45), a huge paper-thin crepe, slightly tangy and curled like a giant piece of crisp parchment. Break off a piece and dip it into the accompanying chutneys or lentil dal. Du Kuh Bee 12590 S.W. First Ave., Beaverton 503-643-5388 $ This 25-seat Chinese-Korean hole in the wall at the edge of old downtown Beaverton is hard to find, but the journey is worth the effort. Inside, discerning diners look beyond utilitarian furnishings to a menu filled with intriguing possibilities. A noodle dish is a must. Owners Frank and Ying Fong make their own, handstretching and cutting traditional thick wheat noodles, then stir-frying them with seafood, vegetables or meat and a red chili sauce. A large platter is $14 for shrimp or squid down to $8 for the veggie version. As for the simple, carnivorous pleasure of Korean barbecue, the best choices are spicy pork ($8), thin slices of marinated then grilled belly meat, or slabs of unctuous eel ($15) served on a bed of onion with vinegared plum sauce on the side. Another plus: late-night hours until 1 a.m. (2 a.m. on weekends). Three dishes should fill up two diners for a wallet-friendly $25-$35. Garden State 7875 S.E. 13th Ave. 503-705-5273 $ To paraphrase an old joke about the Jewish Lord Mayor of Dublin’s visit to New York: “A food cart serving East Coast-style Italian-American food with fresh ingredients from the Willamette Valley? Only in Portland!” Kevin Sandri concocts wizardly sandwiches and other delights in his teeny-tiny movable kitchen in the Sellwood food cart pod, and it’s entirely worth a trip to sample what he’s up to. A couple of the staples — a hearty meatball hero ($6), an authentic sausage-and-peppers hero ($5) and a roast beef sandwich with gorgonzola and veggies ($7) — are like Platonic ideals of Italian deli staples. And then there are the things no one around here makes: a chickpea patty sandwich ($6), herbed
chickpea fries ($2) and the famed arancini — golf-ball-size spheres of saffron risotto stuffed with beef ragu or pungent sautéed vegetables, then fried to a crisp ($1 each).
Breakfast Bests Broder 2508 S.E. Clinton St. 503-736-3333 $ Portland has enough breakfast spots to feed the entire state of Oregon, but Broder does it differently: hip morning chow, Swedish-style. Don’t expect the usual eggs-and-bacon grub at this sliver of a cafe, where the cooking looks stylish enough for Wallpaper magazine. Get the aebleskivers, golden pancake puffs for soaking up homemade lemon curd and jam. The baked scrambles come in many guises, like ham with farmer’s cheese or smoked trout and onion, all served in adorable skillets alongside a neat stack of walnut toast and a crisp potato pancake or a salad. Undecided? Get one of the bords: generous Euro samplers of yogurt, fruit, meat, cheese, eggs and fish with dark, nutty bread. The room is cozy (if a bit cramped), decorated with crafty light fixtures and vintage Dansk. Coffee is potent and service is friendly, but prime times demand patience and a righteous Bloody Mary ($6.50) garnished with housepickled vegetables. The Heathman 1001 S.W. Broadway 503-241-4100 $$$ There are places serious about breakfast/brunch, and then there are places that offer a choice of five flavors of orange juice, from two varieties of navel to tangelo, handsqueezed to order behind the bar ($4.50). Actually, there’s only one place like that, at least around here, and that may be why The Heathman not only offers Portland’s preeminent power breakfast — not too many places inquire solicitously how crisp you like your bacon — but a new weekend brunch menu that
picks up a whole additional engine. The weekday menu carries all expected breakfast possibilities, as well as a thickly stuffed Dungeness crab omelet ($18.95) and French toast with banana and candied macadamias ($9.50), not to mention The Heathman’s longtime masterpiece: smoked salmon hash ($12.95). Now, on weekends, things get even more elaborate, with a separate section headed “Pig” that includes biscuits with apple/sausage gravy, pulled pork ($9.50) and a thick, citrussmoked pork chop with eggs and seriously cheesy grits ($13.50). It’s a power breakfast that could power you well past dinner. Pambiche 2811 N.E. Glisan St. 503-233-0511 $$ Pambiche gives you egg dishes galore, but in a form like nowhere else in town. And you don’t have to wait for the weekends (when lines are longest) to taste these hearty Cuban-Creole breakfast dishes. The walls are dark red, sea blue and jungle green, and if the tropical colors don’t wake you up, the beef hash with plantains or shrimp with eggs and hot sauce should do the trick. Come for Cuban-style French toast with sugar cane syrup, pimentos in a peppered egg scramble, and “tortillas” — Cuban omelets like soft frittatas (go for the chorizo and mushrooms). Dishes run $7-$11. Order the marvelous variety basket of homemade Cuban breakfast pastries for a sawbuck, including lime papaya scones, grapefruit and coconut milk cakes, and chocolatepassion fruit muffins. For a morning jolt, try the espresso with sherry and crema. Castro himself can’t breakfast any better.
Big Reds from our vineyard to your table . . . Come & enjoy!
Southern Oregon Podnah’s Pit 1469 N.E. Prescott St. 503-281-3700 Best of Show $$ – World of Wines We don’t usually associate barbecue Best Value Pick with breakfast. Then, just over a year – Oregon Wine Press ago, Podnah pitmaster Rodney Muirhead opened his doors on weekend W Main mornings128 and quietly started serving Carlton, OR ’cue next to his top-notch Texas-style home fries and eggs instead of just 503.852.0089 coleslaw and potato salad. Muirhead www.cliffcreek.com takes his meats seriously, cooking
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scene over hardwood only — no charcoal, no shortcuts — and the rest of his little weekend breakfast menu is just as well-executed. Everything speaks of a perfectionist at work: housemade sausages; home-cured ham; rich, dreamy grits; complex spicy salsas; and — OK, we’ll say it — the best biscuits in town, tall, flaky with a delightful crispness on the outside and buttery rather than baking-soda tangy. Given Muirhead’s proclivities, the menu might seem a lonely place for light eaters and kids, but several dishes are vegetarian and the staff is happy to let you order some things a la carte. Screen Door 2337 E. Burnside St. 503-542-0880 $$ Biscuits from the oven, ham on the grill and maple syrup warming in a
pan are a powerful perfume at Screen Door, priming customers’ appetites. With a weekend-only brunch menu long on comforts such as praline bacon, malted waffles and fluffy egg scrambles (breakfast mains: $6.95$11.95), it’s no surprise that the place is always packed. Fortunately, the cooks and servers have the drill down, producing hot, piled-high plates in record time. Pay close attention to the ample specials sheet, offering seasonal dishes and chef’s whims including corn dogs with cracked pepper cane syrup (stuffed with quality pork sausage, not cocktail wieners), coffee cake threaded with hunks of apple, and whopping oatmeal-buttermilk pancakes that are surprisingly light ($3.25-$12.95). Disciplined eaters can get by on $10 a head for breakfast, but with so many good things to choose from, you’d be wise to budget $15 per person.
Cocktail Hour Clyde Common 1014 S.W. Stark St. 503-228-3333 $$ With its Ace Hotel and Stumptown coffee neighbors, the urban-modern Clyde is positioned right inside downtown’s epicenter of hip. Chic young locals and trendy out-of-towners commune over cocktails both reverent (a G&T with house-made tonic water, $8) and ironic (The Cold Shoulder, with gin, grapefruit and stone-pine liqueur, $9). But substance doesn’t take a back seat to style: Drinks are confidently shaken with old and new ideas (the unusual ingredients might run from a medicinal Italian Barolo chinato to green walnut liqueur), and the sipping list is extensive and adventurous. With happy-hour bargains twice a day ($3-$6), you can save your debit card for a spree at Johnny Sole nearby. Look for a hot eggplant and mozzarella grinder; a tasty burger; and crisp fries with spicy harissa and cool crème fraîche for yin-yang dipping. Kir 22 N.E. Seventh Ave. 503-232-3063 $$ This tiny gem of a wine bar brings a welcome dose of joie de vivre to the east side. More Parisian than Portland, the intimate candlelit nook provides well-priced, mostly European wines and simple, tasty snacks. Owner-cook Amalie Roberts puts her low-key, chic touch on every aspect of Kir, and her time abroad shows in a feel for Provençal flavors. The wine list is solid and inexpensive ($5-$10 a glass), but not huge. Then again, nothing at Kir is large, from the bar itself to the postage-stamp kitchen equipped with a toaster, crockpot and hot plate. The mostly Med, seasonal menu cuts to the chase with wine-worthy snacks like succulent olives ($3), salt cod brandade ($6) and warm, honeyed almonds with smoky paprika ($3). Sit outside and glimpse the sun setting behind the Steel Bridge while sipping a bright, mineral-y rosé from the Loire ($7) or a Felluga pinot gris ($8), accompanied
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Podnah’s Pit
PHOTOGRAPH BY FREDRICK D. JOE
by steamy mussels in Pernod celery cream ($10) or a lovely chicory radish salad with farro and walnuts ($7). Roberts’ talents are many, and lucky for us they add up to Kir: a delicious pause at the end of the day. RingSide Downtown 2165 W. Burnside St. 503-223-1513 $$-$$$ Sure, times are tough. But times have been tough before, and some things endure: the appeal of a wellmade highball when you’re thirsty for some relaxation, the balm of an icecold martini after a long day at work — or a long day searching for work. RingSide’s bar abides. From wars to citywide scandals, this windowless sunken room has shut out the world’s troubles for 65 years. No matter what kind of tab you run up, the tuxedoed waiters and old-school bartender (there are no mixologists here) will make you feel part of the club. No urge to splurge? Go to ground — as in, freshly ground: The juicy hamburger ($9.95) patty bursts with a meaty, char-grilled flavor despite the so-so dressings and blah bun. Ask for it, as it’s not on the main menu. RingSide’s onion rings ($6.50/small, plenty for two) are deservedly famous, and a must with a dip of fry sauce. Happy hour delivers value with $2.25 bites — wings, oysters, fish or prime rib nuggets — but you’ll have to go late (9:45 p.m.-close nightly) or come early (4-6 p.m. Sundays).
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Saucebox 214 S.W. Broadway 503-241-3393 $$ Eternal Youth. On the one hand, it’s the name of a radical new cocktail at this panoply of panAsian potables. On the other, it describes the thirsty hordes at Saucebox’s wildly popular happy hour, which on weeknights draws a mix of young office workers, scenesters and tourists. Back to the beverage: Intended to be more of a tonic than a drink, the Eternal Youth ($8) showcases antioxidant goji berries encapsulated in an ice cube (for dosing as well as muddling, with gin, lime and passion fruit). Along with the likes of the kava-root-andvodka Shaman’s Gift ($9), such botanical cocktails are touted as efficacious, even healthful. (Anytime you can convince people that drinking is good for them, more power to you.) Whatever. They taste good and look fabulous. Other super sips: the Green Dragon (cucumber vodka, cranberry, sour mix, $7) and the Kickboxer (chile vodka, citrus juice, raspberry purée, $8.50). All that youthful energy in the black, mural-emblazoned room requires fuel, and Saucebox’s happy-hour menu delivers. Organized by price from $1 to $5, it roams from Thailand (squid satay, $2) to Vietnam (banh mi pork sandwich, $4) to Japan (crab sushi hand roll, $5), with cocktail/beer/wine specials
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($3-$5). Get on board early; tables disappear quickly. The Secret Society 116 N.E. Russell St. 503-493-3600 $ This century-old building was once home to a Masons lodge and a fraternal order called The Woodmen of the World. Now it houses one of the city’s top dining destinations, Toro Bravo, on the ground floor, while the upstairs space plays home to The Secret Society, a beautifully restored ballroom and concert space, along with a swanky lounge where a lengthy list of vintage cocktails offers a crash course in the history of drinking. You’ll find Death in the Afternoon, a Champagne cocktail created by Ernest Hemingway in the 1930s, and Blood and Sand, a scotch concoction created for the premiere of a 1920s silent film starring Rudolph Valentino. The impressive Sazerac, from New Orleans, dates to the 1880s. Don’t mistake all the history as being musty or out of date: The mixologists here know their way around trendy sippers like lemon drops and cosmopolitans, though ordering one misses the point. Most drinks are priced around $7.50, so you can sample several and still keep your budget in line. PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA
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Confluence Vineyards & Winery Confluence Vineyards and Winery boutique winery specializes in small production of big, bold bordeaux style wines such as Boushey Syrah, Klipsun Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and our special blend, “Equilibrium” — a Cab, Merlot, Petit Verdot Blend. Come out to the country and experience the serenity with a nice glass of wine and a picnic! Tasting Room Hours: Sat Noon-6pm 19111 NW 67th Ave Ridgefield, WA 98642 360-887-2343 www.confluencewinery.com
Rusty Grape Vineyard Welcome to Rusty Grape Vineyard, located in the scenic hills just east above Battle Ground, Washington. A casual atmosphere is what we promote and fine artisan wine is what we produce. Our passion and commitment to produce an exceptional wine is evident in our finished product but we truly enjoy a laid back approach to producing and enjoying wine with our family and friends. Tasting Room Hours Friday 4:30pm – close Sat Noon-8pm; Sun Noon-6pm 16712 NE 219th St Battle Ground, WA 98604 360-513-9338 www.rustygrape.com.com
To advertise in Vancouver Marketplace contact Jodie Erickson at 503.221.8579 or jodiee@sales.oregonian.com
Vancouver Marketplace
Featured
Dwellings
Oswego Shore
Lake Front
Tranquility
Hilltop Chic Luxury
Architectural jewel within gated Lake Oswego enclave. Dale Lumpkin’s stylish interpretation of brick & stone. Circular wrought iron railings in domed rotunda. The kitchen is art for everyday with granite and every chef’s amenity. Classic touches- from the greyhound cast stone mantle in the great room to the hewn stone fireplace & cork floor in the den, from hand painted vaulted ceilings to the Juliet balcony. Flagstone terrace bordered with waterfalls, outdoor fireplace & pergola. Shared dock & boat. MLS #9035436
Gated, Private and Picturesque level lakefront retreat. Exuberant profusion of color mingles w/brilliant renovation captivating your heart. Culinary kitchen appliances, state of the art tempting wine cellar. 4 bedroom & study & family room and recreation room. Vibrant formal & casual spaces. Dock and boat fulfill your fantasy lifestyle. Paradise Found. MLS #90344776
Mt. Scott, Mt Adams. Mt. St Helens, River & Skyline as backdrop for 2.6 ac. Dunthorpe Estate. Rotunda entry, Petite Salon, Formal dining, Epicurean Kit., Morning Rm., Office, 3 BR suites, classic moldings, crystal, tile & cherrywood. Lit Bocce Ct. Terraces. ML#9046098
A prevailing architectural aesthetic of the area. Gated entry and meandering drive introduce grand foyer. Frml Liv & Dining, Grmt Kit and adjacent Fam rm w/wet bar. 5 BR Stes. Theatre Rm, indoor pool and spa as well as complete separate guest quarters. Embraced by 11 landscaped acres and enjoying gorgeous views.
$2,248,850 15825 Oswego Shore Ct. Lake Oswego, Oregon 97034 www.RealEstateEcards.com/lumpkin
$3,888,850 1719 Lake Front Lake Oswego, OR 97034 www.RealEstateEcards.com/lakefront
$3,998,850
$4,888,850 Call Barbara Sue for your private viewing. www.RealEstateEcards/Johnson
Broker: Barbara Sue Seal 503-699-3955 bsueseal@aol.com
Broker: Barbara Sue Seal 503-699-3955 bsueseal@aol.com
Broker: Barbara Sue Seal 503-699-3955 bsueseal@aol.com Broker: Steve Kaer 503-349-1312
Broker: Barbara Sue Seal 503-699-3955 bsueseal@aol.com
NE PDX New Contemporary
Belmont East Condos
Contemporary Cottage
Artful Infill
Wonderful southern exposure contemporary unit! No HOA fees. Recent $4500 upgrades in appliances and blinds. Great room fl oor plan with European style kitchen, cook island and eating bar. Great for entertaining and today’s lifestyle. Last unit, great for 1st time homebuyers. Close to freeway, Providence Campus, shopping and MAX.
Open Every Sat & Sun 1-4PM. New contemp condos in the vibrant SE Belmont nghbrhd within minutes of dwntwn. Constructed w/ high end materials incldng, grnt, travertine tile, hrdwd fl rs, and custom cab. “Walkability” rating of 92 out of 100. Pre-sale incentives are still available! www.belmonteast.com
Light-soaked designer-inspired contemporary cottage within walking distance to Multnomah Village and Hillsdale shopping venues. High-style European flair, lives like new, move-in ready. Photo portfolio and all details, call Shannon.
Over 2600 SF of WOW! Just blocks from historic Mississippi Dist. Each row hm has 3 bdrm, 3.5 baths, LR, DR, fam rm, media/flex rm, vaulted mstr ste, real hdwds, marmoleum, tile, custom mahogany cabs, ss applcs, blt-ins, 9 ft ceilings, attch’d gar, fncd yd, covered porch, & built GREEN by Terrafirma Bldg. Plan is site specific w/trad details, designer clrs & fi xtures throughout. Truly URBAN LIVING w/o compromise!
$289,900 6303 NE Oregon St. Portland, OR 3 Bedrooms / 2.5 Baths / 1500 Sq Ft
$199,900-$469,900 838 SE 38th Ave. Portland, OR 97214 1-2 Bdrms / 1-2 Baths / 650-1312 Sq Ft
$289,000 7337 SW 17th Dr. Portland, OR 97219 1+ Loft / 1 Bath/ 1002 Sq Ft
$489,000 4727 & 4731 N Borthwick Portland, OR 97217 3 Bedrooms / 3.5 Baths / 2600+ Sq Ft
www.RealEstateEcards.com/Moapa
equity group, inc. Broker: Jan Ferguson-Bresee Agent Phone: 503.318.5503 Branch Phone: 503.234.1502 fergieb@easystreet.net
Broker: Brandon Buchanan, 503-545-9415 brandonbuchanan@comcast.net Broker: Janet Rajcich, 503-807-9861 janetr@johnlscott.com Branch Phone: 503-230-8600
Principal Broker: Shannon Spence 503-730-0210 503-495-5747 Shannon@spencetobey.com
equity group, inc. Broker: Mark Schaeffer Agent Phone: 503-358-7627 Branch Phone: 503-495-5744 mschaeffer@equitygroup.com mschaefferremax@aol.com
To advertise, contact David Sandvig at 503.221.8443
Featured
scene
Dwellings
high five/Doughnuts Earlier this decade, Portland experienced a doughnut shortage. National chains like Dunkin’ Donuts pulled out of the market, and the remaining locals struggled while people dug into their low-carb regimens. Fortunately, good sense returned to the city and we are re-supplied with plenty of delicious dunkers. Glazed old-fashioned doughnut at Annie’s Donut Shop: This shop offers the full array of classic doughnuts, but it’s the old-fashioneds that have the devoted following. The reason is simple: The crusts are super crisp, coated with a light sugar glaze (or a thicker frosting if you go for the chocolate or maple versions) that yields to a moist and light cake center. Best of all, at only 65 cents a pop, you can have a trio of them for under $2. 3449 N.E. 72nd Ave., 503-284-2752. Cake doughnuts at Staccato Gelato: The weekends-only selection at this gelato shop is bigger and better than ever. The cake-style doughnuts reach new heights with a crisp, sink-your-teeth-into shell yielding to a moist, light crumb. Make your first course applesauce, flecked with cinnamon and coated in extrafine sugar, then devour a spicy triple ginger followed by a perfect glazed
chocolate for dessert. Get there early when this fried dough extravaganza is fresh and fierce. 232 N.E. 28th Ave., 503-231-7100. Grape Ape at Voodoo Doughnut: Imagine Willy Wonka and Johnny Rotten teaming up, and you have an idea of the deliciously twisted selection at Voodoo. Among the eyebrowraising options — now available on both sides of the river — the sweettart Grape Ape leads the pack. Raised and glazed and ethereally light, it’s slapped with vanilla icing and blasted with a tangy, bright purple powder that tastes like grape Kool-Aid — which it is. 22 S.W. Third Ave., 503-241-4704; and 1501 N.E. Davis St., 503-235-2666. Applesauce doughnut at Helen Bernhard Bakery: This old-school place takes you back to the days when bakeries were like Grandma’s house — simple, homey and real. Walk in, take a deep whiff of
sugar-spun nostalgia and load up on this little-known find among the modest doughnut selection: a fragrant, cinnamony cake doughnut, lightly shellacked with powderedsugar glaze and made extra tender and moist with the addition of applesauce. 1717 N.E. Broadway, 503-287-1251. Sesame doughnut at Sesame Donuts: The namesake doughnut at this Southwest shop pays homage to the owner’s Middle Eastern heritage and has plenty of sesame flavor giving a nutty quality to the sweet cake that has a perfectly crumbly texture. You’ll also find more traditional doughnut options here, where everything’s cooked in oil with zero trans fat, but this unique treat stands out. 6990 S.W. Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway; 503-297-8175. £
Modern Living Pearl District This SW facing home in The 937 Condominium tower features a panoramic City view with an open expanse of floor to ceiling windows. Gourmet kitchen includes elegant quartz countertops and premium Bosch, Dacor, and Liebherr appliances. Energy efficiency and sustainable practices are a hallmark of this anticipated LEED Platinum candidate. www.937condominiums.com.
$724,950 937 NW Glisan, Suite 1031 Portland 2 Bedroom/ 2 Bath / 1488 sq. ft.
Broker: Chris Caffee, CITY LIVING LLC Broker Phone: 503.201.6096 Branch Phone: 503.248.9371 chris@937condominiums.com
PHOTOGRAPH BY ROB FINCH
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Annie’s Donuts Hawthorne Vintage Four-Square Sun-filled beauty. Whimsically charming 1907 Old Ptld on quiet Bicycle Boulevard lined w/historic homes. Three blocks to Hawthorne & Belmont cafes. Spacious rms look out on green views. All bdrms upstairs. Beautiful wood flrs, leaded glass, open stair, bay window. Fncd yd. Offstreet parking! Sunnyside Environmental School (K through 8).
$435,790 2435 SE Salmon Portland, OR 97214 3 Bedrooms / 2160 Sq Ft
Prin. Broker: Laurie Sonnenfeld Agent Phone: 503.750.1630 Branch Phone: 503.236.7778 www.ILoveHawthorne.com www.CascadiaHomes.com To advertise, contact David Sandvig at 503.221.8443
Scottish Public House • Portland’s largest selection of single malt whiskies • Traditional Scottish fare including unforgettable fish & chips • Meet friends for a pint in one of our cozy rooms 201 S. 2nd St. @ Hwy 99E,
Oregon City, OR 97045
503-723-6789 www.highlandstillhouse.com
ARCANE CELLARS
Come taste award-winning wines pinot noir syrah riesling pinot blanc cabernet pinot gris
Open Sat & Sun 12-4
Just west of the Wheatland Ferry
22350 Magness Rd. NW , Salem, OR
503-868-7076 arcanecellars.com
NIELSEN’S Jewelers Since 1892
Opal Doublet 14 kt. Yellow Gold
503-234-1614
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825 NE Multnomah | Suite 280
Cafe Cubano Enjoy our refreshing fruit cocktails
Jorge’s o Hideaway ePnati! now op
Live Music! FRIDAY & SATURDAY
A taste of Miami brought to your plate
5225 N. Lombard St • Portland, OR 97203
University House
shop 13 WALKABOUT Tulip Pastry Shop 8322 N. Lombard St. 503-286-3444 Tré Bone 8326 N. Lombard St. 971-255-0772 trebone.net John Street Cafe 8338 N. Lombard St. 503-247-1066 Sabi & Friends 8402 N. Lombard St. 503-719-6176 Ladybug Organic Coffee 8438 N. Lombard St. 503-715-1006 ladybugcoffee.com 17 MIXMASTER Andina Restaurant 1314 N.W. Glisan St. 503-228-9535 andinarestaurant.com Bluehour 250 N.W. 13th Ave. 503-226-3394 bluehouronline.com Cafe Nell 1987 N.W. Kearney St. 503-295-6487 Gilt Club 306 N.W. Broadway 503-222-4458 giltclub.com Park Kitchen 422 N.W. Eighth Ave. 503-223-7275 Wildwood Restaurant & Bar 1221 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-248-9663 wildwoodrestaurant.com 21 RADAR Kenny & Zuke’s SandwichWorks 2376 N.W. Thurman St. 503-954-1737 kennyandzukes.com Laurelhurst Market 3155 E. Burnside St. 503-206-3099 laurelhurstmarket.com
BED & BREAKFAST
2793727V01
401 N. Meridian Street • Newberg, Oregon
503.538.8438 866.538.8438
www.universityhousenewberg.com
PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS
30 CART KARMA
46 DREAM PICNICS
foodcartsportland.com
Mocks Crest Property 2206 N. Skidmore St. New Seasons Market 6400 N. Interstate Ave. 503-467-4777 Reed College Canyon Reed College 3203 S.E. Woodstock Blvd. Otto’s Sausage Kitchen and Meat 4138 S.E. Woodstock Blvd. 503-771-6714 Woodstock Wine and Deli Co. 4030 S.E. Woodstock Blvd. 503-777-2208 Powell Butte Nature Park 16160 S.E. Powell Blvd. Fubonn Market 2850 S.E. 82nd Ave. Ira Keller Fountain Southwest Third Avenue and Clay Street Carafe 200 S.W. Market St. 503-248-0004 Smith and Bybee Wetlands Natural Area 5300 N. Marine Drive
36 FUELING THE RIDE Pedal Bike Tours pedalbiketours.com Clever Cycles clevercycles.com Chris King Precision Components Gourmet Century Ride chrisking.com Tiny’s on Hawthorne 1412 S.E. 12th Ave. 503-239-5859 Rapha Performance Roadwear rapha.cc Baker & Spice 6330 S.W. Capitol Highway 503-244-7573 bakerandspicebakery.com Por Qué No 3524 N. Mississippi Ave. 503-467-4149 Flavour Spot Corner of North Mississippi and North Fremont avenues 503-282-9866
open until midnight seven nights a week izakaya: sake shochu cocktails yakitori noodles
shop 59 THE GOODS Uwajimaya 10500 S.W. Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway Beaverton 503-643-4512 uwajimaya.com Cargo 380 N.W. 13th Ave. 503-209-8349 cargoinc.com REI 1405 N.W. Johnson St. 503-221-1938 rei.com 61 I.D. Adam Arnold (by appointment only) 727 S.E. Morrison St. 503-234-1376 adam-arnold.com Niki’s Restaurant 736 S.E. Grand Ave. 503-232-7777 Sheridan Fruit Co. 409 S.E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 503-236-2113 Veselka 144 Second Ave., at Ninth Street New York, N.Y. 212-228-9682 veselka.com 64 EAT HERE/ASTORIA Bridgewater Bistro 20 Basin St. 503-325-6777 bridgewaterbistro.com Fulio’s Pastaria 1149 Commercial St. 503-325-9001 fulios.com Silver Salmon Grille 1105 Commercial St. 503-338-6640 silversalmongrille.com Fort George Brewery & Public House 1483 Duane St. 503-325-7468 fortgeorgebrewery.com Bowpicker Fish & Chips 17th and Duane streets, across from the Columbia River Maritime Museum bowpicker.com
Astoria Coffeehouse 243 11th St. 503-325-1787 astoriacoffeehouse.com) Blue Scorcher Bakery Cafe 1493 Duane St. 503-338-7473 bluescorcher.com Danish Maid Bakery 1132 Commercial St. 503-325-3657 69 SELECTS/WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT GRIS BEST VALUE/BEST OVERALL 2007 Cloudline Oregon Pinot Gris ($14.75) Fred Meyer: Hollywood West, Northwest Best, Raleigh Hills and Sunset Safeway (multiple) CLASSIC GRIS 2008 Chehalem 3 Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($18) Fred Meyer: Burlingame, Hawthorne, Hollywood West and Northwest Best Whole Foods Market (multiple) Haggen (multiple) Market of Choice Terwilliger QFC Grant Park Note: You may find the 2007 vintage on store shelves until later in the season. A GRIS TO GRILL TO 2007 Four Graces Dundee Hills Pinot Gris ($15) Haggen Murray Hill Haggen Tanasbourne Town Center Fred Meyer: Burlingame, Hawthorne, Hollywood West, Northwest Best, Johnson Creek, Tualatin Lamb’s Garden Home Thriftway Marketplace QFC Mt. Tabor Strohecker’s Vino 100 Whole Foods Market Pearl
FLAIR FOR ASIAN FARE 2007 Soléna Oregon Pinot Gris ($18) Note: You may find the 2008 vintage on store shelves rather than the 2007. Great Wine Buys Fred Meyer Hollywood West Lamb’s Palisades Wilsonville Thriftway Marketplace Market of Choice: Burlingame, West Linn New Seasons Market: Arbor Lodge, Orenco Station, Raleigh Hills Parallel 45 Whole Foods Market Pearl District
www.biwarestaurant.com
503-239-8830
HONORABLE MENTION: PINOT GRIS APERITIF
1135 SW Washington • Portland
503.227.0405
2008 Elk Cove Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($18) Fred Meyer: Hawthorne, Beaverton New Seasons Market: Arbor Lodge, Concordia, Raleigh Hills Oregon Wines on Broadway Safeway (multiple) Lamb’s Garden Home Thriftway Marketplace Wizer’s Lake Grove Market Whole Foods Market: Fremont, Tanasbourne Zupan’s: Burnside, Macadam Note: Prices are approximate. These wines may be available at stores other than those listed; and you may be able to special-order them through your local wine merchant.
www.whiskeybarpdx.com
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MARTHA’S COTTAGE
A Wine Country Guesthouse
Join Us!
73 PUB CRAWL oregonbrewfest.com
Reservations:
971-241-8044 101 Fifth Street Want to be sure you get every issue of MIX? Subscribe! 6 issues, $10. Go to mixpdx.com or call 503-221-8240.
Historic Downtown Dayton, OR
marthascottageoregon.com
LATE-SUMMER SALAD SIPPER 2008 Ponzi Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($16) Haggen (multiple) New Seasons Market (multiple) Thriftway (multiple) Whole Foods Market (multiple) Zupan’s (multiple)
$
2.50 OFF Dessert & Coffee or $4.00 OFF Dessert & Wine Between 3-5pm & 8-9pm
7910 SW 35th AVE at MULTNOMAH Blvd.
503.245.0199
w w w.marcoscafe.com Hours: 7 AM - 9 PM Weekdays 8 AM - 9 PM Saturday, 8 AM -2 PM Sundays No Other Discounts Or Coupons • Serving Multnomah Village Since 1983
83
one shot TrĂŠ Bone pet shop in St. Johns takes customer service seriously, whether the customers wag their tails or not. Co-owner Serge Ouattara makes sure regular customer Decker gets his surely well-deserved treat. PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA
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Mia Sonatina Cellars Unique Wines from across Oregon 102 Nursery Street (also 6th) Amity 503.449.0834 jos@miasonatina.com www.miasonatina.com
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Please join us at the R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar to taste our wines and get to know us in a leisurely setting only blocks away from the winery where we make our Big Fire and R. Stuart & Co. wines. Wines are available by the tasting flight, the glass or the bottle, or to take home. We also offer small snacks perfectly matched with our wines, local micro-brews and espresso drinks. Drop by and visit, we’d love to see you.
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Montinore Estates Biodynamic® tasting 7 days/week 3663 SW Dilley Rd. Forest Grove 503.359.5012 www.montinore.com.com
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Cliff Creek Cellars Award Winning Big Reds! 128 W. Main St. Carlton, OR 97111 503.852.0089 info@cliffcreek.com www.cliffcreek.com
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Styring Vineyards Handcrafted Wines– Pinot Noir & more Exclusively by appointment 19960 NE Ribbon Ridge Road Newberg 503.866.6741 www.styringvineyards.com
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Torii Mor Winery Tasting room open daily 11-5 18325 NE Fairview Drive Dundee 503.538.2279 www.toriimorwinery.com
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Argyle Winery 9 Wines on Wine Spectator’s “Top 100 Wines” List 691 Highway 99W Dundee dan@argylewinery.com www.argylewinery.com
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Cherry Hill Winery Featuring Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris & Rosé 7867 Crowley Rd. Rickreall, OR 503.623.7867 www.cherryhillwinery.com
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Piluso Vineyards great wines/great grapes 6654 Shaw Hwy. SE Aumsville 503.749.4125 pilusovineyard@pilusowines.com www.pilusowines.com
10
Eola Hills Wine Cellars Best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay 501 S. Pacific Highway 99W Rickreall, OR 97371 503.623.2405 ann-batson@eolahillswinery.com www.eolahillswinery.com
9
Benton-Lane Winery Pinot Noir Vineyard & Winery 23924 Territorial Highway Monroe 541.847.5792 info@benton-lane.com www.benton-lane.com
11
Marketplace - Wine Directory
Arcane Cellars Come try our award-winning wines and stunning new releases: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier. Family owned and operated, we produce world-class wines in limited quantities using traditional artisan methods. Located in a beautiful and tranquil setting along the Willamette River, just west of the Wheatland Ferry. Easy accss to I-5, 45 minutes from Portland. Open Saturday and Sunday 12-4, or by appointment weekdays.
22350 Magness Rd. NW, Salem 503.868.7076 info@arcanecellars.com www.arcanecellars.com
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Interested in advertising your tasting room in MIX? Contact Lifestyle Media at 503.294.5047
7
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