MIX Magazine October 201 by Mix Magazine

Portla and s M agazine of Foo od + D rink O Portland’s Magazine Food Drink October cto ober ’10 10

Dining (off-campus) in Corvallis Nourishment on N.E. 28th Avenue Mixing up beer cocktails

OCTOBER 2010

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OUR WINE ISSUE

Dinner party in a wine warehouse / p24 DIY winemakers / p32 Pinot pairing partners /p40 The best pinots for not much money /p49

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editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s note Welcome to our annual wine issue. Which is a hilarious sentence for me to write, because it sounds as though MIX is a magazine with a long history of annual traditions. Oh wait, we do have a long history â&#x20AC;Ś sort of. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re actually 4 years old, as of last issue â&#x20AC;&#x201D; yay for us! But I think we could have a hundred annual wine issues and still not run out of interesting wine-related ideas. How could we, when Oregonians interact with wine in so many ways: We farm beautiful grapes, we make awesome wines, we celebrate wine at festivals, we drink wine with friends to have fun, we obsess for hours about what wine to serve with food, or maybe we just impulsively grab a bottle off the shelf as we hurry to get home â&#x20AC;Ś in other words, we are involved with wine.

Want to be sure you get every issue of MIX? Subscribe! 10 issues, $19.95 Go to mixpdx.com or call 503-221-8240.

In this issue, we look at some wine-focused lives, including some fanatics who make wine every year just for friends and family (Les Garagistes, Page 32). We share chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recipes and expert tips for pinot pairing (Pinot Plus, Page 40). We vicariously have a party with some guys who run a wine storage company, mostly as an excuse for them to constantly cook and drink with friends. We taste through 25 value-priced pinots to bring you some excellent suggestions (Selects, Page 49). We pick a cheese that plays nicely with wine (not all do, you know). And I sort through our recycling to pull out the slopeshouldered bottles to give to our neighbor who also makes his own wine. In other words, we bring you a bunch of snapshots that add up to a bigger picture of how we integrate wine into our lives (yes, yes, along with beer and cocktails and the other good things in this issue). So pop a cork (â&#x20AC;&#x153;twist off a Stelvin closureâ&#x20AC;? just doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the same ring to it, even though weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re fans of screw caps), take a look and raise a glass to wine, once again.

Martha Holmberg, editor mix.martha.holmberg@gmail.com

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OCT.2010 12 STARTERS

Five weird wines, a cool bartender, cult ice-cream sandwiches

24 FRIDAY NIGHT

DINNER PARTY > Up on the roof and down in the cellar with Portland Wine Storage

32 LES GARAGISTES Music has garage bands, so why can’t wine have garage winemakers?

40 PINOT PLUS

Learning to make the perfect match between food and the many personalities of pinot PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS

IN EVERY ISSUE 19 MIXMASTER Sochu — An old man’s drink gets trendy 49 SELECTS The price is right for Oregon pinots 53 PUBCRAWL As if beer on its own weren’t good enough, we now make beer cocktails

57 GOOD CHEESE Pholia Farm’s Elk Mountain loves to be served with wine 58 WALKABOUT Eating and drinking on N.E. 28th Avenue

67 SCENE What to eat where ON THE COVER: Partying on the roof of Portland Wine Storage, Page 24. PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS

61 EAT HERE/ CORVALLIS > We take a taste of off-campus dining

MIX is now 10 issues a year! It’s easy to subscribe online — go to MIXPDX.COM and click on “subscribe.” You can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixpdx.com, so get clicking and start eating.

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contributors

Introducing Portland Eats Out, a community of like-minded eaters coming together as members of a dining club to support our local restaurant community and promote hunger relief in Oregon.

Eat well. Give Back.

Members receive a 15% discount, ﬁve days per week, at participating eateries. 10% of every paid membership is donated to Oregon Food Bank.

Join today at portlandeatsout.com! And, follow us on Facebook & Twitter!

New eateries are joining every day! Those ﬁrst on board include: Tabla, Fratelli , Acadia, Olympic Provisions, Genoa, Accanto, Patty’s Wagon, Roythai, Ruby Jewel Scoops, An Xuyen Bakery, Flying Cat Coffee House, Seven Virtues Coffee, Vino Paradiso, Viking Soul Food, Trebol, Ten 01, FIN, Eleni’s, Pepper Box, Lauro Kitchen, Vindalho, India Chaat House, El Palenque, Yakuza.

Check portlandeatsout.com for a current list.

When Grant butler first arrived in Oregon in the late 1980s, the state’s wine scene was still relatively young, with a lot of the smallest operations working out of sheds, barns, basements and garages. These days, lots of our biggest wineries are multimilliondollar operations that feel more like something dropped out of Napa Valley than the Willamette. When he heard about Les Garagistes wine collective, he couldn’t wait to find out about the wonderful Bordeaux blends they make in a Southeast Portland basement. His story (Page 32) is like traveling back to a time when Bananarama and Kirk Cameron still had cultural currency, and Oregon wineries were still taking baby steps.

john foyston has written about Oregon craft beer for more than 15 years and during most of that time never had a beer cocktail. Yes, there was the occasional red beer — lager and tomato juice, classically, but ideally bloody Mary mix and an Anchor Steam — after a long night of research at the pub, and perhaps a lovely, tart Berliner Weiss with the requisite dash of fruit syrup. But until this month’s article, nothing approaching a true beer cocktail, so it was a revelation to meet the innovative and thoughtful mixologists taking beer to places it’s never been, and a sheer pleasure tasting their mostly excellent efforts … and a lot of hard work, too, he hastily added, just in case an editor reads this. Page 53.

winery & art gallery

“Art in the glass...from its caves to its art gallery, Trisaetum elevates the grape.” -Sunset Magazine

One of the “hottest ‘in’ wines of the area” diﬃcult to ﬁnd outside the state’s borders. -Wine Spectator

“A unique winery/art gallery showcasing the exceptional talents of owner James Frey. Trisaetum is a must see.” -Wine Enthusiast

OPEN WedNesday - SUNday 11am - 4pm 18401 Ribbon Ridge Rd, Newberg

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OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Danielle Centoni, ashley GartlanD, tom harvey, traCy howarD, Kerry newberry, joe paDulo, tami parr, nanCy rommelmann OTHER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS/ ILLUSTRATORS DouG beGhtel, thomas boyD, faith CathCart, reeD Darmon, jamie franCis, ross william hamilton, miChael lloyD, motoya naKamura, leah nash, susan seubert

For her article on pairing pinot noir with food, Katherine Cole sat — figuratively and literally — at the foot of the master, Evan Goldstein. (While he orchestrated wine-and-food pairings onstage at the International Pinot Noir Celebration, she sat in the audience, adjacent to his foot, furiously taking notes.) Cole is wine columnist for MIX and The Oregonian; her forthcoming book on biodynamic winegrowing will be published in spring 2011 by Oregon State University Press. Page 40.

mike Davis has photographed progressive parties before, but none like the three-floor wine fest at Portland Wine Storage. Magical photographs and tasty flights kept appearing, from the basement bar, the loading dock grilling station and rooftop dessert wine tasting. And what great hosts. The sensation was similar to the days when Mike would work in the three floors of the West Wing — except there was no wine while working at the White House. Mike is a freelance photographer and photography consultant based in Portland. Page 24.

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lindashankweiler@news.oregonian.com REED DARMON / DESIGNER rdarmon@news.oregonian.com LINDA FAUS / RECIPE TESTER

WALLY BENSON, AMY REIFENRATH / COPY EDITORS ADVERTISING MARIO vAN DONGEN / DIRECTOR, SALES & MARkETING mariov@sales.oregonian.com, 503-221-8279 STEvE URBAN / MIX ADVERTISING MANAGER steveu@sales.oregonian.com, 503-221-8314 JOSEpH GORDON / SENIOR RESEARCh ANALYST josephg@sales.oregonian.com JUDY ROOKS / MARkETING PROMOTIONS judyr@sales.oregonian.com, 503-221-8397 DENICE WILLIAMS / RETAIL ADVERTISING MANAGER denicew@sales.oregonian.com, 503-221-8514 DEBI WALERY / GENERAL ADVERTISING MANAGER debiw@sales.oregonian.com, 503-221-8302 RYAN COURTNEY / AUTO, REAL ESTATE ADVERTISING MANAGER ryanc@sales.oregonian.com, 503-221-8329 CHUCK SpITTAL / PRODUCTION COORDINATOR chucks@sales.oregonian.com TO ADVERTISE BRYAN pALMER / MEDIA CONSULTANT bryanp@sales.oregonian.com 503-294-4131

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starters “It’s a pretty good value. Of course, that’s not counting the thousands of hours of unpaid labor.” — Matt Giraud, co-founder of Les Garagistes wine collective

p32

delicious read harvest to heat

12 So many farm-to-table cookbooks miss the point, romanticizing the farming life into a Martha Stewart-style dream and offering gastrique- and foam-laden recipes no home cook would ever attempt. It’s refreshing, then, to finally find a book that profiles farmers and food producers in a real way, and that provides chef-driven recipes that are actually doable. In “Harvest to Heat: Cooking With America’s Best Chefs, Farmers, and Artisans” (Taunton Press, October 2010, $40) by photographer Darryl Estrine and food editor and stylist Kelly Kochendorfer, top chefs across the country (including four from Portland) paired up with their favorite farmers or food producers to create an original recipe. The dishes, like Gabriel Rucker’s Halibut Poached in Pepper Butter With Roasted Corn Salad, are highly flavored yet rustic and simple in their execution, all the better to showcase the freshness and flavor of the ingredients. These recipes, combined with gorgeous, moody photos (many by New York photographer Ellen Silverman) and compelling profiles of the farmers, make this a coffee-table book you’ll want to keep in the kitchen. — DANIELLE CENTONI

grapes

5 Wine Varietals You’ve Never Heard of But Should Be Drinking Now Five years ago the current darling of the wine world, grüner veltliner, was as hard to find as a pair of skinny-leg jeans. The once obscure Austrian grape now easily rolls off even a pinotphile’s tongue (GROOner felt-LEE-ner) and can be found at restaurants and wine shops from coast to coast, almost as ubiquitous as skinny jeans at the mall. Not that we want to abandon our darling GV, but we’re curious: What’s next? We asked three local wine experts for their top picks. — KERRY NEWBERRY

Blaufränkisch (BLAO-fran-keesh): This elegant red grape grows across central Europe but is most revered in Austria’s Burgenland, along the shores of the eastern Neusiedler Lake. Dana Frank, the mastermind behind the esoteric and exquisite wine list for Grüner Restaurant, describes the wine as medium-bodied with ripe red fruit, low tannin and a great spicy finish. Other names: lemberger in Washington state, gamé in Bulgaria and kékfrankos in Hungary.

Rotgipfler (RO-tgeep-flah): A full-bodied, aromatic white wine and one of the oldest varieties grown in Austria’s Thermenregion, just south of Vienna. “This is one of the ‘new’ old indigenous Austrian varieties that I’m totally smitten with right now,” says Frank. The rotgipfler she poured at the 2010 International Pinot Noir Celebration was the most popular wine at the table. “Lush yellow fruit aromatics and beautiful minerality,” says Frank. “A delightful wine with cheeses, smoked fish and roasted poultry.”

Nerello Mascalese (ne-re-LO mas-ka-le-se): Ardent pinot noir drinkers seeking elegant, earthy wines with a kiss of mystique will fall fast for this primal varietal growing in the midnight black, volcanic soils in northeast Sicily. The century-old vines that dress the slopes of Mount Etna were all but forgotten and are experiencing a wine renaissance. “The nose is like an aged Burgundy but in your mouth it

tastes like nebbiolo. Rose petals and dried cherries,” says Michael Alberty of Storyteller Wine Co. “It’s a very flexible grape,” Alberty explains. The varietal is made as a still red, a still rosé and a sparkling brut rosé. “I just love this grape,” he says.

Fiano (fee-ah-no): Will Prouty, the wine director at Southpark Seafood Grill & Wine Bar, characterizes this antique white varietal from the Campania region of Italy as a wine with “sneaky richness, acid and hints of almond.” Wordsmiths will appreciate the Latin root for the varietal, “vitis apiana,” as the sweet, ripe grapes attract bees — and food lovers drawn to the versatility. “It pairs supremely with a range of foods, from seafood to fatty cheeses and charcuterie,” Prouty says.

Tannat (TAH-NAH): This burly red varietal hails from the Madiran region in southwestern France at the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains. “Dark, brooding and compelling,” Prouty says, “and more feral than lap dog.” The wine gets friendlier if you throw it a little red meat, he adds. Formidable tannins characterize the French wines — a contrast to the lighter, fruitier tannat wines produced in Uruguay, where French Basques first planted the varietal in the 1870s. Tannat is now considered the “national grape” of Uruguay, and that country produces more of the varietal than France. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SUSAN SEUBERT

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to do

October Through Oct. 31

Corny, in a good way Who says Halloween fun is just for kids and teens? Embrace your inner youth with a scream-inducing trip through The Haunted Maize on Sauvie Island. It’s all part of The Pumpkin Patch’s Harvest Celebration. Once you’ve regained your wits, pick up a pumpkin for carving — or making soup. portlandmaze.com

Oct. 3

Take these wings and fly On this day back in 1964, the first batch of buffalo wings was whipped up at The Anchor Bar in Buffalo, N.Y. Use this as your excuse to grab a plate (and extra napkins) of humdingers 14 at Fire on the Mountain Buffalo Wings. If you’re brave, try the “El Jefe” sauce, which can turn your tongue into cinders. Oct. 8-10, 15-17

Keep the doctor away

in the right job

Pouring more than just a drink “Nice to see you again,” says Mike Robertson, standing behind the bar in The Driftwood Room. Born in the Bronx, a bartender’s bartender, Mike’s been at the Driftwood for three years. You’ve been here before and know he’s a savant with spirits: The Old Tom cocktail he made last time — Ransom gin, aquavit, the Bolivian coca-leaf liqueur Agwa — was so sublime you decided that from now on, Mike decides what you drink. Which he’ll happily do, explaining what he’s adding and why, a few dashes of Fee Brothers Rhubarb Bitters, for pucker and sweetness, and have you tried Miller’s gin? Here’s a swig. Letting Mike mix your drinks is to be under the tutelage of a very wise professor, and a generous one. Which, Mike acknowlThe Driftwood Room at the Hotel deLuxe edges, is a two-way 729 S.W. 15th Ave., 503-219-2094 street. For instance, the www.hoteldeluxeportland.com drink he stirs in a rocks glass, with its clarity and sparkle of Caribbean water — if the Caribbean were pink — was his recipe, sure, but the name came from a group of Brits recently at the Driftwood. “You don’t go to a bar to get a drink. You can get a drink at home,” says Mike, sliding you the Sloane Ranger. “Really what bartending is, is being social.” — NANCY ROMMELMANN

1½ ounces Pimm’s Liqueur ½ ounce Velvet Falernum liqueur 3 dashes Fee Brothers Rhubarb Bitters 1 ounce fresh lemon juice 1½ ounces Canada Dry ginger ale Pour over ice. Stir. — MIKE ROBERTSON, THE DRIFTWOOD ROOM PHOTOGRAPH BY ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON

Eating at June in October

When the days get shorter and cooler, fall’s apple harvest must be on the way. If you’re caught in a Red Delicious or Gala rut, hit Portland Nursery’s 22nd Annual Apple Tasting, featuring unusual, heirloom variety apples you won’t find in your neighborhood grocery. Taste samples, then pick up bags to eat with lunch or turn into fantastic pies. portlandnursery.com Oct. 19-24

Spice up your night The Tony Award-winning musical “In The Heights” hits town, celebrating the cultural diversity of New York’s Washington Heights neighborhood, where many Latinos with Cuban roots live. After the show, head to Pambiche Cuban Restaurant for the culinary merengue of Torta Dominó chocolate cake and café con leche. intheheightsthemusical.com pambiche.com

more to do

The Sloane Ranger

PHOTOGRAPH BY ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON

Opened by the dream team of 2215 E. Burnside St. architect Matthew Peterson 503-477-4655 and chef Gregory Perrault, East junepdx.com Burnside newcomer June offers great food, without attitude. Peterson’s design is at once industrial and rustic — bare concrete, dark woods and dim lighting — and Perrault’s menu echoes a similar vibe. Seasonally inspired dishes offer layers of complex flavors, like melt-in-your mouth pork rillettes, subtly smoked coho salmon and can-cut-with-a-butter-knife lamb. And desserts, such as the cardamom-spiced berry crisp, may induce food coma, but are definitely worth the risk. Cocktail geeks will get their fix at the six-stool bar where Kelley Swenson — the bartender responsible for breathing life into Ten-01’s beverage program — mixes spot-on cocktails such as the Cassandre, an aperitif of two vermouths and fresh orange. And wine-lovers and beerists need not fret, as their respective offerings are toast-worthy as well. Open every night but Monday, this sign-less, 35-seat spot fills quickly, so make reservations or risk waiting until next June for a table. — TRACY HOWARD

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starterscont. to do cont. Oct. 23

The trick is in the treat Want something special for this year’s Halloween party? Sur La Table’s Spooky Halloween Treats cooking class shows you how to make ghastly “brain pudding,” mini jack-o’-lantern cakes and creepy caramel corn. What makes it creepy? We’re too afraid to ask. cookingclasses.surlatable.com Oct. 23-24

Get into the spirits Oregon-made spirits get plenty of love at the city’s best bars, and the Great American Distillers Festival 2010 is the place to see the best bartenders work their magic with the best homegrown gin, vodka, whiskey and liqueurs. The festival’s tasty, too, with food pairings from top chefs. distillersfestival.com

eat this now / it’s-it Forget Boudin Bakery’s sourdough bread and Buena Vista’s Irish Coffee. I can find close approximations of those San Francisco classics just about anywhere. But there’s nothing – nothing! — that can take the place of an It’s-It. The cellophane-wrapped ice cream sandwiches, made in Burlingame, Calif., for decades, are as ubiquitous in Bay Area convenience stores and vending machines as Twinkies and Fritos. And for natives like me, who spent their summer vacations roller skating to 7-Eleven for It’s-Its, Slurpees and a few rounds of Q-Bert, they’re nothing short of ambrosial. It’s-Its are a rarity outside the borders of the Bay Area, let alone the state, so when I discovered them at New Seasons recently, I felt like I

had discovered the Virgin Mary’s face in the swirling cream of my coffee. The heavens opened, the angels sang and I was filled with joy, awe, wonder and delight at being so very blessed. Yes, this is no ordinary ice cream sandwich. This is the perfect ice cream sandwich, with just the right ratio of vanilla ice cream (don’t bother with the other flavors) and soft, cinnamony oatmeal cookie, covered in a thin crackly coating of chocolate. Is it gourmet? Not even close. But it’s magically delicious — and at a New Seasons near you. — DANIELLE CENTONI

Oct. 23-24

Even more apples

Yes, October is all about apples, and you can make a day trip out of it with The Hood River County Fruit Loop Heirloom Apple Celebration. The heritage of some of the apples grown here goes back more than 100 years, and various farms honor them with cider tastings, barbecue and live music. hoodriverfruitloop.com Oct. 25, 27

Last call for weekday veggies Boo! The Monday and Wednesday editions of the Portland Farmers Market close for the season. The Monday market was new this year to Pioneer Courthouse Square, while the Wednesday market by the Schnitzer Concert Hall has been a longtime lunchtime favorite. The good news: The Saturday edition of the market at Portland State University continues through Dec. 18. portlandfarmersmarket.org Oct. 31

Pretend it’s the “Mad Men” era Long before the urban legend of razor blades in apples spread like fire, making it impossible for people to hand out homemade treats, caramel apples were a Halloween staple. It’s fitting, then, that this is National Caramel Apple Day, in honor of the perfect combination of crisp fall fruit and buttery caramel. You can’t hand them out to trick-or-treaters, alas. But make a batch for yourself.

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Sandwiches, pinball, late nights

Back in 2008, nationally lauded chef Tommy Habetz surprised Portland’s food cognoscenti by opening Bunk Sandwiches and dedicating his prodigious skill to excellent yet humble lunch fare rather than elaborate entrees. Still, when word got out that he and partners Nick Wood and Matt Brown were opening a bar on the industrial east side, you couldn’t help but expect he’d be adding to the momentum of PDX’s craft cocktail scene with mixologists making their own bitters and shelves lined with obscure spirits and antique cocktail books. Turns out, the newly opened Bunk Bar is staying true to the original no-nonsense course. It’s a bar in the “friendly neighborhood dive” sense of the word. The ’70s-cool vibe is almost devoutly anti-

Bunk Bar scene, with pinball ma1028 Water Ave. chines in the corner and 3 p.m.-2:30 a.m. music that’s low enough bunksandwiches.com to encourage actual conversations. The small beer and wine selection offers well-chosen standards; cocktails are strictly simple classics; and the food menu is nearly identical to the one at the beloved sandwich shop. In short, it’s a dive with good taste. Although Bunk Bar doesn’t break new ground, it’s one of the few places in Portland where you can get good food and drinks after midnight, and for that we will be eternally grateful. — DANIELLE CENTONI PHOTOGRAPH BY ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON

mixmaster [ Do you shochu? ]

f you’re among the masses fighting for seats at izakaya-style pubs around the city, we’re guessing you’re already familiar with sake. After all, plates of Japanese skewers and steamed pork buns are best enjoyed with a drink in hand. And if you’re going to eat like the Japanese, you might as well drink like them, too. By Ashley GArtlAnd / photoGrAphy By ross williAm hAmilton And motoyA nAkAmurA

mixmaster cont.

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in that case, it’s time to try shochu. once considered a lowbrow, old man’s drink in Japan, this clear spirit’s popularity recently surged among young, hip Japanese bar crawlers. interest in shochu has grown at a slower rate in the states generally, but in portland, authentic Japanese restaurants such as yuzu and syun izakaya have been serving shochu in the suburbs for years. more recently, izakaya-style restaurants such as ping, departure and Biwa introduced the downtown drinking set to shochu with flights and cocktails that help diners get schooled in shochu while they eat. when dealing with the uninitiated, bartenders may compare shochu to vodka as a way to make a foreign spirit feel more familiar. “often that comparison is the easiest way to get people to understand what shochu is,” says departure lead bartender Felipe romero. “Vodka has been a number-one-selling spirit for decades now, so that comparison gives them that bridge to start experiencing shochu.” though the two spirits share

a few traits — primarily that they’re clear and, typically, unaged — people like ping bar manager Abe Freeman say the vodka comparison sells shochu short. “i don’t use the vodka comparison unless people are completely not getting it,” he says. “what i usually tell them is that shochu is a low-proof distilled spirit made with any starch that can be fermented or distilled — potato, rice, soba, buckwheat, you name it. that’s what gives these products their individual taste.” shochu expresses a broad range of flavor profiles depending on the starch the distiller sourced. so at Biwa, servers might use the description “kind of like vodka” but then further explain that a sweet potato shochu tastes quite different from a shochu distilled from rice. the sweet potato shochus might be described as earthy, musty and funky; descriptors for rice shochus — soft, smooth and pure. Clientele can compare the flavor differences between shochus in flights at ping, departure, Bamboo sushi and Biwa. “in our flight, we do three shochus and we hit the main

traditional Japanese izakaya patrons mostly drink sochu on its own, but portland bartenders aren’t exactly traditional. hence, ping’s sochu cocktail (above) made with red potato drinking vinegar; Bamboo sushi’s shiso-leaf and lemon grass sochu cocktail; and Biwa’s almost-classic Cuba libre that swaps out the rum for sochu. Anything but sochu cosmo …

types — sweet potato, barley and rice shochu — because those are the most distinct,” says romero. “Just like when we put different sakes next to each other in a flight, a shochu flight shows that just because something is shochu, it doesn’t mean there isn’t a huge difference in the flavor between the different styles.” portland bartenders also serve single shochus neat or on the rocks, with a lemon slice or diluted with water or hot water so customers can try drinking the spirit in traditional Japanese ways. And then there are the cocktails. the Japanese call shochu cocktails chu-hai and make them by mixing shochu with citrus juice, citrus soda, ginger ale or chilled oolong tea, the latter which appears frequently in the popular oolong hai. diners who score a seat at

Gerding Theater at the Armory 128 NW Eleventh Avenue

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Local shochu local bartenders often supplement their shochu supply with trips to uwajimaya, Fubonn and uptown liquors. But bartenders will soon have a domestic shochu available when house spirits distillery releases its double-distilled uchi no kami shochu. the shochu-making project is the result of a partnership with sakeone in Forest Grove that allowed house spirits to make three shochus. those shochus will hit tasting room shelves as soon as the label is approved.

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mixmaster cont.

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ping will inevitably watch bartenders mix red potato drinking vinegar with Jinro shochu to make the bar’s bestselling, sweet-tart shochu cocktail. At the lofty departure bar, bartenders mix shochu with house-made honeyjasmine green tea syrup in the nectar cocktail, while Bamboo sushi offers a crisp, clean shiso serious cocktail made with shochu, shiso leaf and lemongrass-infused simple syrup. And at Biwa, bartender tom lindstedt toys with variations on chu-hais (like a cucumber soju Collins) and also uses shochu to reconstruct classic cocktails with a Japanese twist. “in general, we’ve found that simply one or two ingredients added to the shochu works well (in cocktails),” lindstedt says. “Ginger, lime and shiranami (shochu), with a bit of sweetness and soda, re-creates a quenching mamie taylor. Jougo (shochu), lime, orange bitters, black peppercorn syrup and soda do a nice job mimicking a Cuba libre.” however, making shochu cocktails with low-proof

shochu can prove challenging. “while shochus take on flavor characteristics of other base alcohols, the lower proof tends to mean that those wonderful flavors and subtleties are lost if shochu is merely treated as a 1-to-1 substitute for whiskey, scotch, rum, vodka, etc.,” lindstedt says. “the key is finding new ratios that are effective for each individual shochu, as some of those subtleties in shochus are more finicky than others.” whether locals prefer their shochu served in cocktails or neat, these portland bartenders are making a point to highlight the spirit — and hoping the popularity of shochu grows. “i would love to see people recognize a bottle or two … or order a shochu with hot water or three of them with hot water and introduce their tablemates to something new,” ping’s Freeman says. “what i don’t want to see are shochu cosmopolitans.” But a sweetmeets-sour shochu cocktail sipped over a plate of skewers or a classic chu-hai served with small plates suits these barkeeps just fine. £

Recipe

Oolong Hai 2 ounces yaemaru mugi jochu (barley shochu) 4 ounces oolong tea

and so much more!

pour the shochu and tea into an old-fashioned glass over three large ice cubes. serve chilled. — Recipe from “Japanese Cocktails” by Yuri Kato

friday night dinner party

[ Guests wander through a warehouse in an industrial twist on the progressive dinner ]

hen we founded portland Wine storage 10 years ago, we made sure our business was about more than just wine storage. our warehouse has become the locus for fostering a community of like-minded individuals — meaning a bunch of food and wine geeks — to come together over wine tastings, recipe testing, heated debates (usually about wine), and even a few late-night twister games. in other words, lots of parties. We find the secret to any lively party is to never stay in one place for too long, so on this Friday night, we follow a progression, enjoying courses throughout the building. our guests begin arriving downstairs in the tasting room, where we’ve laid out salami and cheese and white wines for sipping. Glasses of wine in hand, we ride the elevator up to the loading dock to pop a big bottle of Champagne and make sure our grill master, joe, isn’t going thirsty, as he grills the veggies to be served with the main course. dishes such as simple grilled vegetables are great because you can prepare them early and serve later at room temperature. it is time to whet everyone’s appetites with some crispy pork fat, so we grill some pork belly skewers and pass them around right on the dock — a full sensory experience of smoke, fire and sizzle.

the party starts with wine on portland Wine Storage’s rural rooftop, the ideal spot to catch an urban sunset as preamble to an evening of eating and drinking. Subsequent courses will be served on other levels of the warehouse.

By tom harvey and joe padulo photography by mike davis

friday night dinner party cont.

Next, we throw a fig, blue cheese and caramelized onion pizza on the grill, which barely survives the short distance from the grill to the serving platter because of all the hands reaching in. our trick for this is to par-cook the pizza in the oven ahead of time so it holds together on the grill. With the grill still hot, tom’s wife, andria, sears the chicken before leaving it to gently smoke as the grill cools. With our hot appetizers and Champagne behind us, we climb to our green rooftop to watch the urban sunset and share a sauternes brought by a guest. We think a sweet wine such as sauternes, with properly balanced acidity, is entirely appropriate within a meal as a palate cleanser, and a little goes a long way. With the sun down, we head back to the cellar for our main course. We fill our glasses with red wine and begin dismantling the platters of food onto our dinner plates. this is the stage when our parties can get lost in time. We eat, drink and talk without any other concern . . . and we take our time. We taste through some wines, getting our friends’ opinions and finding our newest champion bottles. We don’t always mess around with dessert, but this time we were inspired, knowing we were going to open a 1989 kopke Colheita port after dinner. so, we had a sweet trifecta: apple pie, fried cookie dough and pears poached in spiced red wine. a quick game of twister cements the evening — and gives our guests the excuse to begin leaving. For us, the essential steps of cleanup are putting away all food, corking the bottles and starting the dishwasher. the rest can wait until tomorrow.

the menu salami plate: Barolo salami from Creminelli, sobrasada (a spicy spreadable spanish sausage) from the Fatted Calf, and Cacciatore and Nola from olympic provisions assorted cheeses from steve’s Cheese tails and trotters loading dock pork Belly skewers Grilled pizza of figs, blue cheese and caramelized onions Whole romaine-leaf Caesar Canapés marinated and grilled veggies: mushrooms, red and yellow peppers, squashes, large red onions, and fennel slices portuguese Barbecued Chicken roasted yam salad With Balsamic Chutney vinaigrette Campari-Crusted deep-Fried Cookie dough With vanilla ice Cream Bosc pears in red Wine

the wines Whites, Rosé, and Sparkling:

jean sipp 2008 (organic) alsatian pinot Gris reserve sin Qua Non 2007 stripes and stars rosé dosnon & lepage Nv recolte noir Champagne Chateau Climens 2005 sauternes Red Wines: G.d. vajra 2005 albe Barolo (biodynamic) jrG 2007 red wine les laquets 2002 Cahors (organic) Quilceda Creek 2001 red wine 1989 kopke Colheita port … and many, many more

Hosts Tom Harvey and Joe Padulo built their wine storage business around the concept of creating a place where food and wine people can congregate and do what comes naturally â&#x20AC;&#x201D;eating and drinking. The grill, set up on the loading dock, is a magnet for guests, who sample the pork belly skewers directly from the fire. A plate of gorgeous vegetables, grilled ahead, is a smart starter.

friday night dinner party cont. roasted yam salad with Balsamic Chutney vinaigrette

Soi

means local street in Thai, and these streets are often filled with many food vendors and small eateries which offer the best of Thai cuisines…

this salad is great for fall and the holidays. it’s colorful, flavorful and a crowd favorite. 5 medium red yams, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 3 pounds) olive oil 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 cup raw green pumpkin seeds ½ cup dried cranberries ½ cup dried tart cherries 1 cup chopped green onions, white and light-green parts

Our goal is to share with you some of the beloved street foods of Thailand, with a modern twist. We enjoyed these dishes while we were growing up and hope you will enjoy them as well…

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MAkes 36 cAnAPés

this recipe makes not only a salad dressing but also a great sauce or dip (think aioli), depending on how thick or runny you make it. you can make it the traditional way, by hand, or the easy way, using a food processor. everyone should know how to do it both ways. 1 egg yolk 1 tin anchovy fillets, oil drained off 3 to 5 medium garlic cloves juice of one lemon 2 tablespoons dijon mustard

1 cup julienned roasted red pepper

a few dashes Worcestershire sauce

Dressing:

a few dashes tabasco sauce

¼ cup balsamic vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper

½ cup mango chutney

1 cup olive oil (something mild, stay away from stronger extra-virgins)

2 tablespoons dijon mustard 2 tablespoons honey 3 garlic cloves, minced ¼ cup olive oil to make the salad: heat the oven to 425 degrees. toss together the yams, enough olive oil to coat, rosemary, salt, pepper, cumin and ginger, and then spread in a roasting pan. roast until the yams are fork-tender and golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. add the pumpkin seeds and cook, stirring, until toasted. transfer the seeds to a plate and season with salt and pepper.

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Whole romaine-leaf Caesar Canapés

make the dressing: put all the dressing ingredients except the olive oil in a small saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer. remove from the heat and whisk in the olive oil. assemble the salad by gently tossing the roasted yams with the cranberries, cherries, green onions, red pepper and enough of the dressing to coat, and then garnish with toasted pumpkin seeds. serve with extra dressing on the side.

vinegar, optional (i like something light and fruity, such as raspberry or white balsamic) kosher salt 36 small whole leaves of romaine lettuce (use romaine hearts) about 2 cups small croutons 6 tablespoons grated parmigiano-reggiano shavings of parmigiano-reggiano 2 6-ounce cans good italian tuna in oil into the food processor bowl, put the egg yolk, anchovies, garlic, lemon juice, mustard, Worcestershire, tabasco and pepper to taste. process until the garlic and anchovy are smooth. slowly, very slowly, drizzle in the oil while processor is running. this is where the emulsion happens. it should thicken up and have a nice body and consistency if done properly. taste and adjust the flavoring and consistency of dressing. this is where i would add a little vinegar to thin it out a little and brighten it up a bit. salt, if you’re adding any, comes in here. i’m going to put my dressing into a squirt bottle, so i add about 2 tablespoons of vinegar. When it’s time to serve, arrange the romaine on a platter, and then squirt some dressing across the leaves at an angle. sprinkle on some croutons and grated parmigiano-reggiano, and then top each leaf with shaved parmesan and a chunk of tuna. serve right away. — Joe Padulo

SATURDAY: Through October 30th 8:00 - 1:30

portuguese Barbecued Chicken We based this recipe on the classic portuguese marinade vinha d’alhos (pronounced veenya dahj), which translates as “wine of garlic,” but we’ve added some paprika and pickling spices. through some experimentation, i’ve taken these classic portuguese spices and transformed them into a dry rub and then, depending on the season, added a glaze for barbecuing. in the winter, i use only the rub and bake the chicken whole in the oven, but if the weather permits, i prefer to grill the chicken, adding the glaze in the last 15 minutes of cooking for extra savoriness.

HARVEST MARKET NOV 20th 8:00 - 1:30

serves 8 To 10 PeoPle.

Dry rub:

Glaze:

1 tablespoon hot paprika

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon sweet paprika

1 medium onion, grated

2 tablespoons garlic powder

2 tablespoons fresh hot red chiles, minced

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon red bell pepper, minced

2 tablespoons pickling spice, crushed

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon cayenne

juice of 1 lemon 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar ½ cup tomato paste 1 tablespoon soy sauce ½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon hot sauce (piri-piri if you can find it) 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar 1 to 3 tablespoons honey ½ cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 1 tablespoon sweet paprika 1 tablespoon ground cumin 6 pounds chicken (i prefer to use thighs and legs for this dish, but wings and breasts will work just as well) ¼ cup olive oil

For the rub: stir together all the ingredients of the dry rub and spread over all sides of the chicken. if you can, do this the day before, but a few hours or so before cooking will be ok, too.

For the glaze: put 2 tablespoons oil in a medium saucepan, add the onion, hot chile, red bell pepper and garlic, and cook over medium heat for about three minutes until soft and fragrant. add the rest of the glaze ingredients and cook another 25 minutes on medium to low heat until sauce thickens, stirring occasionally. to cook the chicken, lightly brush the spice-rubbed chicken with the olive oil. heat your grill so one side is medium-hot and the other is low. sear chicken on both sides over the hot side to make grill marks and crisp up the skin. move to the cooler side of grill and pull the grill cover down, then slow-cook the chicken on low heat for about 20 minutes (if your grill can smoke, now is the time to do it). Baste the chicken with the glaze and slow-cook for another 15 minutes, continually turning and basting, until the chicken is cooked all the way through (160°F) and the skin is browned and glazed.

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friday night dinner party cont.

‹

tails and trotters loading dock pork Belly skewers pork belly used to be hard to find, but now that it has become trendy in so many restaurants, many good butchers and gourmet groceries have it. i use tails and trotters hazelnut finished pork (available at the Buckman Farmers market in southeast portland on thursdays), and it is to die for. also, go crazy on the marinade, as pork loves flavor. my marinades have an asian slant, but do what you like. Want to cheat? stubb’s makes a great pork marinade available in almost any supermarket. and remember you can never have too much pork belly at a party, so don’t skimp — it will get eaten. Marinade: MAkes 30-40 skewers

5 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, finely chopped ½ cup light soy sauce ½ cup mirin 2 teaspoons five-spice powder 30

2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes 1 stalk lemon grass, finely chopped 1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup honey (not too thick) 3 pounds pork belly 30 to 40 wooden skewers, soaked in water stir together all the ingredients of the marinade and set aside. most people recommend removing the skin of the pork belly. if it’s clean, i leave it on to crisp it up later on the grill. slice the pork belly into ½-inchby-2-inch rectangular strips to fit on your wooden skewers. i usually stick to one strip per skewer, leaving the skin side on the end to get crispy. Cover your skewers with marinade and put in the fridge. ideally you should do this the day before, but anything up to an hour before grilling is ok. heat your grill so one side is hot and the other is medium-low. sear the skewers on both sides (and the end if you left the skin on) over the high heat. move to the cooler side and finish cooking, about 10 minutes. arrange the skewers on a platter or just hand them out to hungry souls drooling over the grill.

Campari-Crusted deep-Fried Cookie dough serves 10 To 12

i won’t tell you exactly how many times i tried frying this cookie dough, except that it was more than twice before i realized i had to fry the dough inside a batter. and i thought i invented deep-fried cookies until i Googled them and found them across the map as a county-fair food staple. to keep some posture of originality to my recipe, i introduced Campari, a bright red and bittersweet aperitif, into the batter recipe. to move through the cooking process faster, i cheat and use premade chocolate chip cookie dough. as far as the deep-frying goes, just about any cookie dough recipe, mix or product should work with equal success. 1 18-ounce package store-bought chocolate chip cookie dough (i used Cougar mountain)

Bosc pears in red Wine you can’t beat the elegant presentation of this simple dessert. i like to bring the pears to the table in a glass bowl and leave them to be admired while i serve coffee or dessert wine. then when i’m ready to serve individually, i place them on white flat dessert plates on a puddle of reduced liquid with a dollop of crème fraîche to the side. Be sure to get firm yet ripe pears with the stem left intact. they are best if poached and kept in the liquid (in the fridge) at least a day ahead of time. if you must, they can be made the day of your dinner party. serves 6

1 quart cold water juice of one lemon 6 small, firm but ripe Bosc pears, with stems on 1½ bottles dry red wine (750 ml bottles) 1¾ cup sugar 2 whole star anise

Batter:

3 whole cloves

2 cups flour

1 cinnamon stick

¼ cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon baking powder

put the water and lemon juice in a deep bowl. peel the pears, carefully leaving the stems on. Cut the base of each pear flat across the bottom so it will sit upright on the plate. drop pears in the water and set aside.

¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1 large egg, lightly beaten ½ cup Campari ½ cup club soda, more if needed vegetable oil for frying roll cookie dough into 1-tablespoon balls (about the diameter of a quarter). you want to get around 30 balls (three per person). Freeze the rolled balls. For the batter: Whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. Whisk in the egg, Campari and club soda, adding more soda or flour until batter resembles pancake batter in consistency. hold in fridge. Fill a deep-fat fryer or large pot about one-third full with oil (any fuller and you risk the oil overflowing); heat to 350 degrees. skewer a frozen cookie ball with a wooden skewer and dip into batter, then carefully slide with another skewer into hot oil. only fry a few at a time so they don’t stick to each other or crowd together. Fry the cookies for about 3 minutes until they begin to brown up. place on paper towels to drain for a few seconds, then serve warm with vanilla ice cream. — Joe Padulo

in a large saucepan or dutch oven, combine the wine, sugar, star anise, cloves, cinnamon stick and vanilla. Bring liquid to a simmer over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. add the pears and keep submerged in liquid by placing a dish on top of the pears. simmer 20 to 25 minutes depending on the pear size until still firm but you can pierce slightly with a fork. remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool. Withdraw about a cup and a half of the liquid, put it in a small saucepan and simmer for 15 minutes until reduced to a syrup. set aside at room temperature. after pears cool, store in their liquid in the fridge until serving time, but keep syrup at room temperature. to serve, transfer pears in the original poaching liquid to a glass bowl to present them, then plate with a small pool of reduced syrup and a dab of crème fraîche on the side. you can also serve with vanilla ice cream or mascarpone cheese. — Joe Padulo

By GrANT BUTLer PhoToGrAPhy By BeTh NAkAMUrA

The basement of Matt Giraud’s Southeast Portland bungalow looks an awful lot like a mad scientist’s laboratory. There are chemistry tools, beakers and small scales on a well-worn workbench, and every nook is filled with imposing equipment. But oak barrels, a wine press and a 124-gallon steel fermentation tank reveal that this isn’t a space for DNA sequencing.This is where Giraud and a collective known as Les Garagistes gather every fall to make small batches of wine for their own enjoyment. Now, wait a minute. If they’re making wine in a basement, why don’t they call themselves Les Basementistes, or whatever the correct French equivalent would be? “A garage band can practice in a basement and still call itself a garage band, so why can’t we make wine in a basement and call ourselves Les Garagistes?” says James McQuillen, who co-founded the collective with Giraud more than 15 years ago to show that good wine can be made without sleek facilities, fancy tasting rooms and marketing campaigns. People become Garagistes when Giraud invites them to purchase $100 annual shares, which underwrite the purchase of grapes and equipment upkeep. A share is good for roughly a case of wine, ringing in at a little more than $8 a bottle.

In the basement of Matt Giraud’s Southeast Portland bungalow, Les Garagistes co-founder James McQuillen examines the bouquet of wine that’s ready to go into the bottle for the collective’s Bordeauxstyle blend Le Peugeot. each collective member pays a $100 share to get a case of the non-retail wine — though that price doesn’t include the labor each member is expected to contribute to the wine-making and bottling process.

aragiste

drinking with the

WINeMAkING coLLecTIve LeS GArAGISTeS PrAcTIce TheIr crAFT IN The BASeMeNT

“oNe oF The ADvANTAGeS oF MAkING WINe Where yoU LIve IS yoU cAN SMeLL WheN ThINGS Are GoING WroNG. I cAN JUMP oN A ProBLeM QUIckLy BecAUSe I’M LIvING WITh IT.” — MATT GIrAUD

“It’s a pretty good value. of course, that’s not counting the thousands of hours of unpaid labor,” Giraud says. Joining the collective means agreeing to lend a hand when it’s time for heavy lifting during the fall harvest and crush. “That’s one of the funnest parts of doing this,” Giraud says. “We’ve got 20-odd shareholders, and they’re all encouraged to pitch in — if only because we need as many potluck dishes as possible so we can feast and drink and have a good time afterward.” When it’s time to pick grapes beginning in late September, Giraud and other Garagistes rent a truck and head up to Washington’s yakima valley, where they work the vines, then haul the fruit back to Portland. In Giraud’s driveway, they process the grapes and then load them onto a chute that feeds into a basement fermenter. It’s a process they repeat as many as a half-dozen times during the course of the harvest as different grape varietals reach their peak. For Giraud, it’s more or less a full-time job during october. “I’m living here, so I fill in a lot of the cracks,” Giraud says. “But everyone has a job. everyone touches the wine and can pick up a case and say, ‘I made this!’ ” Giraud doesn’t just live with the grapes 24 hours a day. he

Les Garagistes make their wine with a “gravity feed” operation, which requires prepping of steel tanks so that wine can be siphoned into a metal fermenter (left, top). When the wine begins flowing, aromas fill the basement and eventually drift up through the floorboards, filling Giraud’s home with the smell of wine. When the wine is ready for bottling, collective member Michael corrigan (below) checks the level of wine in each bottle prior to corking. The technical term — as fun to say as it is to spell — is ullage. The idea is to fill the bottle enough so that there’s minimal space between the cork and the wine (so there’s less oxygen to mess with the wine over time), but enough space so that as the wine expands and contracts as temperatures change.

smells them, too. While the crushed grapes sit in the fermentation tank, they’re protected with a low-tech cover — bedsheets. The sheets keep the fruit flies out but allow the aroma of wine to waft up through the floorboards. “For about a month, the house fills with this ambrosia of fermenting wine,” he says. “one of the advantages of making wine where you live is you can smell when things are going wrong. I can jump on a problem quickly because I’m living with it.”

Les garagistes

made their first batch of wine in 1994. Giraud and McQuillen purchased 500 pounds of Willamette valley muscat and cabernet grapes from an experimental eola hills vineyard, producing about 20 gallons of finished wine — enough for about eight cases of wine that McQuillen still cringes over. “It was green, bell peppery and olivey,” he recalls. compare that with last year’s vintage, when they bought 3.5 tons of fruit and produced 130 cases of wine. And very good, well-balanced wine, at that. The secret to the improvement is access to better fruit, as they’ve courted growers over the years. In addition to the cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and syrah grapes from the yakima valley, they purchase pinot noir and pinot gris from oregon’s Willamette valley. It’s not easy getting better fruit when you’re at the lowest end of the pecking order, McQuillen says: “you’ve got to buy more fruit. And having a wine column doesn’t hurt, either.” he’s referring to crush, a wine column that he and Giraud wrote for Willamette Week in the 1990s, which introduced them to key

players in the Northwest wine scene. (McQuillen continues to write freelance stories on other topics for The oregonian, which publishes MIX.) “Some of those relationships bore fruit — literally,” he says. Les Garagistes Bordeaux blends have names that evoke things you might find in a French mechanic’s garage. Their top-of-the-line bottling is called Le Peugeot, after the high-end French automaker. one year, they made a blend they called Deux-chevaux, after the economy car that looked like a frumpy cousin to a volkswagen bug. The labels for the wines, which Giraud designs himself, take the theme further, featuring line drawings of spark plugs, oil cans, wrenches, welder’s goggles and bolts. “I looked around the web for old French cars,” Giraud says. “If we ever do a white blend I want to call it citroën. That sounds like a white wine.” They made their first Peugeot in 2004, with a blend of merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, and they’ve kept the basic formula, tweaking it a little for each vintage. “It’s sensual but not too far from innocence,” Giraud says, bursting into laughter over the ridiculousness of the description. “The thing that we love about this wine — and this is different from a

When all of the winmaking work in the basement is done, Les Garagistes retreat to Giraud’s kitchen, where the stove yields stir-fries of fall vegetables and lots of meaty concoctions. If the weather cooperates, they enjoy the food — and bottles of the previous year’s Le Peugeot, of course — on Giraud’s back deck, which overlooks a garden that includes 21 grape vines, all descendents from rootstock from The eyrie vineyards, the first to produce pinot noir in oregon. Also growing in the garden are two bittersweet vine cuttings, which were given out during the memorial service for David Lett, eyrie’s founder and an oregon wine pioneer, who passed away in 2008.

lot of Bordeaux blends — is we tend to have a lot more cabernet franc, that adds these beautiful floral notes, so there’s this olfactory dimension to the wine.” While Les Garagistes specialize in reds, they’ve started making pinot gris after a very long break. “We’ve been scared of whites for many years, thanks to the dark pinot years,” Giraud says, recalling their earliest attempts to make wine. “We were getting pinot noir and pinot gris from this vineyard in Banks, and we made these awful, stinky wines. The thing with white wines is there’s nowhere to hide. you can’t hide behind the tannins, behind the luscious fruit, behind the oak. And you have to keep them rigorously away from oxygen, none of which we had figured out. So we made these interesting white wines that were good for cooking.”

actuaLLy, cooking is a huge part of the Garagistes

experience. At the end of days spent toiling in the vineyards or working in the basement, members settle on Giraud’s back deck for a feast. “James is an excellent cook, and two of the other guys are, too,” Giraud says. “There’s not a lot of suffering after the harvest.” Though some of Les Garagistes bring potluck dishes, Giraud’s kitchen becomes a frenzy of sautéed fall vegetables, baked eggs and hearty flavors. Because the wines they make are made with food in mind, the meals are a natural way to celebrate and enjoy their efforts. “The whole point of the thing is communal enjoyment,” McQuillen says. “We’ve always had some pretty great meals, especially the big nights after crush and bottling. We do love some eating and drinking.” £

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Pinot 40

Learn to make a perfect match between food and the many personalities of pinot

Foodies obsess about pairing the right wines with their meals. Wine geeks obsess about pairing the right foods with their bottles. Evan Goldstein swings both ways. Goldstein has a way of approaching wine and food that makes so much sense, whether you’re coming at it wine-first or food-first. He’s a wine educator, a master sommelier and an author, and he has worked in the restaurant world, most memorably alongside his mother, the iconic chef Joyce Goldstein, at the celebrated San Francisco restaurant Square One. His books include the two indispensable guides to food-and-wine matching, “Perfect Pairings” and “Daring Pairings” (both published by the University of California Press). Goldstein offers up small, easy-to-digest bites that are especially effective when talking about our own Oregon icon – pinot noir. While pinot is notoriously food-friendly, not all pinot has the same characteristics, and so not all pairings will be successful. Depending on the producer and vintage, a “pinot noir” may be lush with ripe black fruit, or no, maybe red fruit, redolent of oak, elegant, deliciously barnyard-y, lean and austere, more Burgundian, more Californian…the full range of expression of this complex grape.

by Katherine CoLe / recipe photography by beth naKamura

= 41

Pinot noir is one of the easiest wines to pair “Wines that are soloists aren’t always good group performers,” Goldstein says. “But pinot noir — more than any other grape — is architected to go with food.” that’s because, more than any other red, pinot noir tends to have high acidity, “the singular most important aspect of a wine’s pair-ability,” along with balanced oak, lower tannins and moderate alcohol levels. “You’re going to have a hard time finding foods that pinot noir doesn’t go with,” he says. “For many years, sommeliers have considered pinot noir to be their silver bullet. it works with just about everything,” Goldstein says. So if you’re looking to make a great pairing, give yourself a head start by picking a pinot … and possibly one from oregon. “Very few places do pinot noir well. You are blessed with a state where that is your calling-card wine.”

all recipes have three key components Why didn’t we notice this before? Goldstein says every recipe has three factors that will affect its wine matchability:

1. the main ingredient 2. the cooking method 3. A condiment or sauce “in any particular dish, one of those three elements will be dominant. it may very well be the nature of the key ingredient that speaks out. it may be the method in which it is prepared, especially if you are doing something very powerful like grilling or smoking,” Goldstein says. “the trick is to seek out the alpha male of your dish and make that the primary element that you pair with your wine.”

the sauce is the boss “More often than not, the sauce will trump everything,” Goldstein says. And at the international Pinot noir Celebration, we saw that to be the case. Four northwest chefs prepared lamb four different ways, then served their dishes with four different pinot noirs. the result was not so much a commentary on the differences between grilling, smoking and braising as it was a wake-up call to the importance of the sauce or garnish. these sauces and garnishes went in four different directions and brought out four different aspects in the wines. in short, Goldstein says, your sauce can actually make your pinot taste the way you want it to. that’s a neat trick, no?

[the recipes]

Although they were served with lamb at the iPnC, the first three simple garnishes could accompany a variety of meats or even fish. (A pinot-friendly vegetarian option: grilled or roasted portobello mushrooms.) the last recipe is a bit more complicated, since the braised lamb and the sauce are combined.

[one]

A zesty and herbaceous sauce will trim down a fat wine. What the chef did: Jason Stoller Smith, executive chef at timberline Lodge, made a simple salsa verde that brought a fruity California pinot noir back from the edge of over-ripeness. Lemon juice, parsley, mint and black pepper brought out a kick of acidity that we would never have noticed in the wine alone; and “the herbal character brought out this other herbal facet that the pinot noir didn’t seem to have by itself,” Goldstein says. What you can do: try this treatment with Willamette Valley pinot noirs from the hot 2006 vintage. recipe:

Mint Salsa Verde Jason Stoller Smith, executive chef, Timberline Lodge MAkeS ABout 1 CuP 2

⁄ 3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Juice and grated zest from 1 lemon ¼ cup onion, finely minced (use a sweet variety, if you can find one) 1 cup lightly packed italian (flat leaf) parsley leaves, minced ¾ cup lightly packed fresh mint leaves, minced Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste Mix all ingredients together and leave to rest, covered in refrigerator overnight. Spoon over grilled or sautéed lamb chops or grilled or roasted leg of lamb.

[tWo]

A sweet-andsour sauce will plump up a light wine. What the chef did: A Premier Cru nuits-Saint-Georges from the restrained 2004 vintage had “a leaner, less-generous texture, and almost alarming levels of acidity,” Goldstein says. Chef kevin Gibson of evoe developed a simple fresh currant sauce (which can be made with many other fruits) that brings out ripe and tart notes in understated wines. it took our lithe little Burgundy and made it taste positively bodacious. “it also had an acidity level that was on par with the wine, which actually helped mirror it and bring it out,” Goldstein says. What you can do: this treatment would be a good match for Willamette Valley pinot noirs from the cool 2007 vintage, as well. recipe:

Fresh Red or Black Currant Sauce Kevin Gibson, chef, Evoe

the recipe is written for currants or cranberries, but you could also use gooseberries, or diced apricots, peaches, plums or persimmons — just pick what looks great in season. Freeze any excess sauce and serve it with your thanksgiving turkey. MAkeS 12 ⁄3 CuPS

1 onion, diced 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves Pinch kosher salt 3 pints red or black currants or 4 cups cranberries 1 cup moscato d’Asti, prosecco or other light but off-dry (slightly sweet) white wine ½ cup honey

in a large saucepan, sauté the onions in the grapeseed oil over medium heat until soft and translucent; stir in the thyme and salt. Add the fruit and the white wine. Bring heat up to a light simmer. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced by a third and the fruit is entirely incorporated. Slowly pour the hot contents of the pan through a sieve into a bowl, using a ladle or the back of a large spoon to crush the fruit and squeeze out all the puréed flesh. discard solids and return the liquid to the pan. Bring the fruit juice to a simmer and continue cooking until thick and syrupy. drizzle in the honey, stirring, to taste.

earthy [three]

An earthy garnish will bring a wine down to earth. What the chef did: Classic lentils accented with fresh thyme echo the earthy, forest-floor “sous bois” notes you might find in an old World pinot. At the pinot noir celebration, Renee erickson, chef-owner of Seattle’s Boat Street Cafe, matched this easy garnish with a new Zealand pinot that was already, according to Goldstein, showing plenty of terroir. What you can do: try this accompaniment with the lush, ripe and still-young pinots of oregon’s 2009 vintage, which could use some grounding. the plum and preserved-lemon relish creates contrast and adds brightness to the plate. recipe:

French Lentil Salad With Plum and Preserved-Lemon Relish Renee Erickson, chef-owner, Boat Street Cafe and Walrus & Carpenter, Seattle MAkeS 3 CuPS LentiLS And 4½ CuPS ReLiSh

1 cup French green lentils (rinse and remove any stones)

plum and preserved-Lemon relish

4 cups water

half a preserved lemon, soaked for 30 minutes in water to remove some of the salt

1 fresh bay leaf 1 carrot, cut in half 1 small onion, cut in half 2 ribs celery, cut in half Put all the ingredients in a medium saucepan, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until the lentils are tender but not falling apart, 30 to 40 minutes. drain any liquid, and fish out and throw away the bay leaf and all the vegetables. Cool in the refrigerator. Remove from fridge 30 minutes before you want to eat the lentils so they come to room temperature. dress with high-quality, assertive olive oil, salt and pepper. Serve the lentil salad under any roasted or grilled meats, especially lamb. Garnish the meat with a few spoonfuls of the plum relish.

6 red plums, not overly ripe, finely diced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Remove the inside of the lemon and most of the pith, so you just have mostly the peel. Finely dice the peel. Combine the plums, lemon peel, thyme, olive oil, lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir well to incorporate the seasoning. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

[four]

A savory and spicy sauce will make your wine taste exotic. What the chef did: Cathy Whims, executive chef at nostrana, braised lamb shanks and incorporated them with gremolata, white beans and tomatoes, which is why her recipe is for more than a sauce (because the dish and the sauce are all the same thing). But what struck us were her Venetian-inspired ingredients: cloves, cinnamon, cumin, orange zest and green olives. taking a taste and then a sip, Goldstein noticed a “brown exotic spice character” in a 2007 St. innocent Momtazi Vineyard Pinot noir from the McMinnville AVA. “if you like your pinot spicier, that incorporation of pie spices and exotic spices like cumin are going to bring those notes out,” Goldstein says. What you can do: Pair this spice-heavy recipe with a well-balanced Willamette Valley pinot noir from the acclaimed 2008 vintage. take something great and make it sublime. recipe:

Braised Lamb Shanks With Castelvetrano olives, Purgatorio Beans, tomato and Gremolata Cathy Whims, executive chef, Nostrana 46

Lamb:

Beans:

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

1 pound dried small white beans (Whims uses Purgatorio beans from Ayers Creek Farm)

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

8 cloves garlic, peeled

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

6 bone-in lamb shanks, about 5 pounds

Salt ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for rub 3 onions, sliced ¾ cup dry white wine About 4 cups meat broth (you can use canned low-sodium chicken or beef broth if you don’t have homemade)

tomatoes:

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 basket cherry tomatoes, washed, stemmed and halved if small, quartered or cut into eighths if large Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Gremolata:

6 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-by½-inch lengths

2 tablespoons chopped italian (flat-leaf) parsley

2 tablespoons grated orange zest

1 tablespoon chopped fresh Lebanese coriander (or ½ tablespoon cilantro plus ½ tablespoon parsley)

1 cup Castelvetrano olives (or another green olive in brine without herbs), pitted and coarsely chopped

Grated zest of one orange

instructions / page 48

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Braised Lamb Shanks With Castelvetrano olives, Purgatorio Beans, tomato and Gremolata / cont. Braise the lamb: Rub the meat with the cloves, cinnamon, cumin, salt to taste and a little olive oil. Let sit overnight in the refrigerator. the next day, heat the ¼ cup olive oil in a large casserole or dutch oven on medium-high heat. Brown the lamb shanks well on all sides. Remove the lamb and then add the onions; sauté over medium heat until just beginning to turn gold, about 10 minutes. Add the white wine and scrape up any brown bits to deglaze the pan. Add back the lamb shanks and add enough broth to just cover the meat. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cover. Cook at a gentle simmer until the lamb is almost tender, at least 1 hour and 15 minutes, though maybe a bit

longer. Add the carrots and orange zest, then continue cooking until the lamb is just tender, about 25 minutes. Add the olives and cook another 25 minutes until the lamb is meltingly tender. taste, and season with salt and pepper if needed. Meanwhile, make the beans: heat oven to 250 degrees. Put the beans, garlic and olive oil in a ceramic bean pot or other covered dish. Add water just to cover, then cook until very tender, adding more water if the beans on top are uncovered. this usually takes 2½ to 3 hours.

cook the tomatoes: heat oil in a large sauté pan until just before smoking. Carefully add the tomatoes all at once. Sauté, tossing often, until the tomatoes just start to collapse and release their juices. Season with salt and pepper; keep warm until just before serving. to serve, mix the herbs and orange zest together (the gremolata). Fold the beans into the warm lamb shanks and serve garnished with tomatoes and sprinkled with gremolata. £

selects oregon pinot noir

[ The $20 pinot noir ]

STORY BY KATHERINE COLE; PHOTOgRAPHY BY ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON

n Oregon pinot noir terms, $20 is the new $35. Just a couple of years ago, the sign of quality on a tasting-room shelf was a price tag that topped $30. Those days are over, as an anemic economy has sucked the middle out of the local wine market. The new shape of things is the hourglass, with single-vineyard releases still luring collectors at the top and bargain bottlings rounding out

the base. (And then there are the dregs: The debuts, this year, of two $7 Oregon pinot noirs.) Those in the middle are getting squeezed out. Hence the new benchmark. Just about every pinot producer in the state seems to be selling a $20 bottle this year. That price point isn’t cheap, but it is a low bar for expensive-to-produce Oregon pinot noir. We feel for the local producers who — in many cases — are reducing prices to below cost simply to stay afloat and keep inventory moving.

selects / oregon pinot noir cont.

PANELISTS: Ted Farthing beverage marketing consultant, tedfarthing.com

Mimi Martin co-owner, The Wine and Spirit Archive educational center, wineandspiritarchive. com Nicolas Quillé winemaker and general manager, Pacific Rim, rieslingrules.com Martha Holmberg editor-in-chief, MIX magazine grant Butler critic-at-large, The Oregonian & MIX Katherine Cole wine columnist, The Oregonian & MIX

RIGHT VINTAGE, WRONG TIME No one ever said it was easy to produce delicate pinot noir in our fickle climate. Unfortunately, it was the economic climate, not the meteorological one, that bashed local vintners in 2008. At the same time that bankers all over the globe were harvesting negative returns, vine tenders in Oregon were harvesting an epic vintage. 2008 started out inauspiciously in the Willamette Valley, with delayed bud break and a cool summer. Vine tenders dropped fruit to ensure they could achieve ripeness; the undernourished berries were small, which made for concentrated flavor. Then, a gorgeous autumn took the region by surprise. Uninterrupted sunshine throughout September and October ripened the fruit to perfection, while cool nighttime temperatures kept acidity levels high. Harvest was late, yields were low and the hang time was long. The resulting wines are rich and flavorful, yet brisk with acidity. In any other economy, 2008 would be a vintage to celebrate. But right now, wineries are simply trying to get their ’08 inventory out the door. (Note: Although yields were low, volume was up: Oregon vineyard acreage increased by 37 percent during the boom period between 2005 and 2008.) These economic conditions favor large producers, who have national and international distribution systems in place and don’t need to break into new markets to offload inventory. In addition, the big boys have their pick of purchased fruit and can name their price when no one else is buying.

It came as no surprise, then, to discover that two of our four winning wines came from Oregon’s top two wine producers, by volume: A to Z and King Estate (a third winner, Montinore, ranks in the state’s top 15). A depressed economy also favors second labels. A winemaker typically selects his top fruit for his premium label; the picked-over grapes go into the second label. When times are tough, however, a winery might dump more of the high-quality harvest into that lower price bracket simply to ensure that the juice gets sold. In a terrific vintage such as 2008, this means that second labels can be delicious deals. Which explains why second labels accounted for two of our winners, Next and Jigsaw (and, arguably, a third: Since it’s mostly made at the tony Rex Hill winery, A to Z could also qualify as a second label). I’d also like to send a shout-out to our runners-up, which included yet another second label, Cloudline, from Domaine Drouhin Oregon.

NATURAL SELECTION Alas, some of our favorite local $20 pinot noirs didn’t make our tasting because of poor timing or lack of availability. Most notably absent were Evesham Wood and McKinlay, both of which have been quietly producing underpriced, OldWorld-style wines for decades. Although they weren’t in front of us, we kept these two standard-bearers in the backs of our minds. We determined not to be swayed by the loudest flavors, and instead sought out subtlety. In our opinion, subtlety comes handin-hand with natural winegrowing.

“Natural” is the new buzzword in wine; it connotes organic, biodynamic or sustainable agricultural practices and a handsoff approach in the cellar. Evesham Wood and McKinlay are both favorites of followers of this style. Although our winning wines didn’t taste like the result of natural winemaking — there was nothing feral about their smooth fruit flavors — they did, it turned out, all come from producers committed to supporting organic, biodynamic and sustainable viticulture. Our runners-up confirmed our preference for more naturally farmed grapes, too. They include Cooper Mountain Vineyards, a certified-biodynamic winery; Libra, a winery that employs biodynamic methods; and Illahe, a vineyard worked by Percheron draft horses rather than tractors. Does viticulture get any more “natural” than that?

THE TAKE-AWAY The shape of today’s wine market might be an hourglass, but we think Willamette Valley pinot noir has found a comfortable spot on the upward slope. We don’t deal in jugs of cheap cabernet. We don’t do white zinfandel. The two largest wineries in the state are producing not supermarket sludge, but delicious and elegant $20 wines that stand out in a blind tasting. Brand Oregon stands for careful farming and craft winemaking. The winners of our recent blind tasting are telling us that the ubiquitous $20 price point upholds those values. We’d like to think this is proof that our wine industry can ride out this recession with our reputation — and our favorite pinot noir producers — intact.

THE WINNINg WINES Note: Although we tasted a couple of 2007s, a couple of 2009s and a couple of southern Oregon pinots, Willamette Valley 2008s dominated our bagged lineup of 27 reds. They account for most of the $20 pinots you’ll find on store shelves right now. Even though it might mean we can’t afford to drink pinot noir every night of the week, we’re pleased with the $20 price point. There’s a lot of variety here, and with the 2008 vintage, we’ve found some underpriced gems.

For eVerYone in YoUr ADDress BooK

2008 A to Z Oregon Pinot Noir ($18) Descriptors such as “easy,” “casual,” “neutral” and “elegant” circulated around the table as we tasted this wine. We felt that this cuvée could appeal to any palate; we’d serve it with cheese at a party or bring it to Thanksgiving dinner with the certainty that it would go with the flow, whatever direction that flow might be flowing. Although it didn’t make us want to jump on a couch and declare our undying love for it, “everything is correct,” observed Holmberg. “It’s like the Banana Republic or J. Crew wine.” Farthing agreed: “I got some sophistication for a good price. Kind of like the Kenneth Cole outlet store.” When we unveiled the bottle, we saw that we had been right on the mark: A to Z Wineworks sources grapes and juice from all over the state to produce some 70,000 cases of this pinot. It’s sold all over the U.S., so we would recommend it to everyone — from A to Zed — in our address books.

oregon AMBAssADor

2008 Next Oregon Pinot Noir ($18) Martha Holmberg found the Next “quenching, very accessible, fun and easy”; she imagined pairing it with fall farmers market finds: late corn, squash, herbs, mushrooms, root veggies and roasted red peppers. In addition, notes of (as Mimi Martin so accurately described them) “strawberry candies, sour cherry and currant” made us all hungry for grilled or smoked salmon. Picturing this cornucopia of local goodness, we started to envision ourselves in a Travel Oregon ad. Which was apropos, because it turns out that Next is a second label of King Estate and, like the A to Z, it’s a wine sold all over the nation. We’re satisfied to know it’s out there representing us.

FAB WitH FooD

2008 Jigsaw Oregon Pinot Noir ($19) Let’s face it: Pinot noir makes us hungry. Farthing, an occasional bird hunter, was licking his lips for some upland game — grouse, chukar, Hungarian partridge — when he got a whiff off this one. Quillé deemed its earthy quality “Beaujolais-like” and wondered how it would pair with couscous. Butler was envisioning hearty autumn stews, and maybe even chili. I couldn’t get enough of the Jigsaw’s silky mouth feel and the array of spices (cardamom, cinnamon, coriander and nutmeg) that wrapped up the piquant finish. Jigsaw is the second label from Ransom, the Sheridan winery that doubles as a top-tier artisanal distillery. Judging from owner Tad Seestedt’s way with wine, we might suggest that some other local liquor producers try their hands at pinot noir.

loVelY AnD lYricAl

2008 Montinore Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($16) Forget about the price cut (it was $21 when we picked it up initially): The Montinore was music to our palates. Farthing heard a waltz. Butler heard the Duke Ellington Orchestra. I started humming Cole Porter: “It’s delightful, it’s delicious, it’s de-lovely.” Quillé wanted to don a tux and hop on a 1930s trans-Atlantic cruise with this pinot; he called it “elegant,” “Old World-ish” and “romantic.” Martin admired its red fruit, its smoky and earthy notes and its vibrancy. “It was the belle of the ball and I could dance with her all night,” Farthing dreamily concluded.

Tasting Room hours: Tue-Sun 11-5pm

selects / pinot noir cont.

G O WI N E TA S TI N G ! Join us this fall for an unforgettable wine tasting experience in the Willamette Valley. Known for its world class Pinot Noir, the Willamette Valley is home to more than 180 wineries and tasting rooms surrounded by stunning vistas. Explore quiet backcountry roads leading to a rustic barnyard tasting room or state of the art winery. Plan your tour by requesting our map and guide at www.willamettewines.com.

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WHERE TO BUY

THE RUNNERS-UP

FOR EVERYONE IN YOUR ADDRESS BOOK

2008 Cloudline Oregon Pinot Noir ($19)

2008 A to Z Oregon Pinot Noir ($18)

Fred Meyer Hawthorne & Hollywood West Liner & Elsen

Fred Meyer Beaverton, Burlingame, gresham, Hawthorne, Hollywood West, Johnson Creek, Northwest Best, Raleigh Hills, Sunset, Tigard and Tualatin Lamb’s garden Home, Palisades, Scholls and Wilsonville Thriftway Marketplaces Any New Seasons Market Any QFC Any Safeway Strohecker’s Any Whole Foods Any Zupan’s

2008 Cooper Mountain Vineyards Willamette Valley Reserve Pinot Noir ($21)

OREgON AMBASSADOR

Any Albertsons Fred Meyer Beaverton, Burlingame, gresham, Hawthorne, Hollywood West, Johnson Creek, Northwest Best, Raleigh Hills, Sunset, Tigard, Tualatin Any Haggen Food & Pharmacy Any Lamb’s Thriftway Any QFC Any Safeway Any Whole Foods Any Zupan’s

2008 Next Oregon Pinot Noir ($18)

2008 Illahe Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($20.75)

Bales Marketplace Fred Meyer glisan, Hollywood West, Northwest Best, Raleigh Hills QFC Mt. Tabor Safeway Cornell, Jantzen Beach, Lake grove, Lake Oswego, Lloyd Center, Murrayhill, Pearl, Rose City, Sunnyside, Tigard, West Linn

E&R Wine shop Market of Choice West Linn New Seasons Markets Cedar Hills, Concordia, Mountain Park, Raleigh Hills and Seven Corners Oregon Wines on Broadway Vinopolis Whole Foods Hollywood, Bridgeport, Tanasbourne Woodstock Wine & Deli

FAB WITH FOOD 2008 Jigsaw Oregon Pinot Noir ($19)

2008 Libra Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($20.25)

E&R Wine Shop Fred Meyer Hawthorne & Tualatin The Hop & Vine QFC Vancouver Whole Foods Fremont, Couch, Laurelhurst

garrison’s Fine Wines Oregon Wines on Broadway Vinopolis E&R Wine Shop John’s Market Place New Seasons Markets Zupan’s Burnside

LOVELY AND LYRICAL 2008 Montinore Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($16) Any Fred Meyer Any Zupan’s

Note: The aforementioned prices are approximate, and store lists, which are limited to the greater Portland area, may be incomplete. You can ask your local wine merchant to specialorder any wine listed in this article. £

pubcrawL [ Beer cocktails: Preconceptions shaken and stirred ] Good beer, it can be pretty easily argued, is perfect and complete by itself. It’s complex and flavorful and doesn’t need anything else … except that a band of intrepid young mixologists see good beer as a starting point for something better — beer cocktails. Straight-ahead beer fan that I am, I have to agree that beer cocktails open up a brave new world. I recently got to taste and talk about beer cocktails with some of Portland’s most ardent proponents: mixologist Jacob Grier, New School blogger Ezra Johnson-Greenough and Yetta Vorobik, owner of the Hop & Vine, where Grier and JohnsonGreenough held an event in the summer called Brewing Up Cocktails. They plan to repeat it this month, also at the Hop & Vine.

BY JoHN FoYSToN PHoToGraPHY BY roSS wIllIam HamIlToN

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Though beer has often enough been mixed with lemonade and citrus juices for shandies and radlers, and tomato juice or V8 juice for the red beer that tastes so good the morning after, beer as an ingredient in cocktails is relatively rare. The few exceptions, such as a Bavarian cocktail of dark weizen beer, cola and cherry schnapps or the all-american Boilermaker â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a shot of whiskey dropped into a mug of factory lager â&#x20AC;&#x201D; prove the rule that the beer cocktail is Terra Incognita for most of us. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think that may be because beer is still thought of in some quarters as the pale yellow stuff that comes out of the one or two taps that a bar may have,â&#x20AC;? said Grier, who was bar manager for the late Carlyle restaurant and is now brand ambassador for the Jacob Bols company. Both Grier and Johnson-Greenough are well-versed enough in the beer world to know that it makes a perfect ingredient for almost any flavor profile imaginable. The Brewers association currently lists well more than 100 different styles of beer, everything from tart, pale Berliner weissbiers to rich, black, roasty stouts and countless variations between. add the Beervanan tendency to barrelage and blend sour beers, or to brew one-off special beers with herbs and botanicals as Upright Brewing is wont to do, and you have a vast array of flavors to pair, contrast and resonate with the spirits, liqueurs, syrups and bitters in the adventurous cocktailianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s armamentarium. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Everybodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s making cocktails with pretty much the same choice of ingredients,â&#x20AC;? said bartender Christian rouillier of Cassidyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, â&#x20AC;&#x153;but when you use beer as an ingredient, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re adding a whole new dimension.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;I started playing with beer cocktails,â&#x20AC;? Grier said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;after attending a seminar in New orleans two years ago by Canadian beer writer Stephen Beaumont, about seeing beer as an ingredient instead of the drink itself. He made a cocktail there called a Green Devil

that combined the aromatics of gin and absinthe with the big, foamy head of Duvel (Belgian ale) to make a fantastic drink.â&#x20AC;? The version they made at the first Brewing Up Cocktails â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and which can be found on The Hop & Vine drinks menu â&#x20AC;&#x201D; is called the Dutch Devil: Duvel, Bols Genever (a malt-based ancestor of Dutch gin), angostura bitters and a sugar cube, topped with a sprig of crystallized ginger. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I definitely want to keep a beer cocktail on our menu,â&#x20AC;? Vorobik said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fun conspiring with these guys to come up with new flavors.â&#x20AC;? Brewing Up Cocktails included four other beer cocktails, the most complex and beer-centric of which was the Cascadian revolution, which was based on Deschutes Hop in the Dark Cascadian Dark ale. To 3 ounces of ale they added Â˝ ounce of Grand marnier, 1â &#x201E;6 ounce of Clear Creek Eau de Vie flavored with Douglas fir, stirred with ice and strained into a martini glass and topped with the secret

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at North Portland’s Hop & Vine, beer isn’t relegated to a pint glass. Yetta Vorobik puts beer cocktails like Choke Van roy (above), Dutch Devil and Quatro Blanco in martini and wine glasses, as well as Champagne flutes.

weapon, a tiny drop of superpotent hop oil. “we played around with that one for a while,” said Ezra Johnson-Greenough. “It was the hardest to create, because we wanted to preserve the hoppiness. we added the Grand marnier to bring back some of the citrus quality, but the hop oil really brought it into focus.” Johnson-Greenough is also an artist (a painter and graphics designer), and the blending and mixing to create something new appeals to his artistic sensibilities. He first sampled beer cocktails when Grier and bartender Neil Kopplin came up with a beer cocktail event called NovemBEEr Cocktails, which was held a year ago at Cassidy’s as a fundraiser for the oregon Bartenders Guild. “People were really curious about these drinks,” said Grier. “It wasn’t just beverage

industry insiders who were interested, either — most of the crowd was the general public.” Shortly after, JohnsonGreenough was in San Francisco for SF Beer week and happened on The alembic, a beer-and-spirits house in the Haight, which features a different beer cocktail each day of beer week. The sheer audacity of some of the blends — fino sherry, Cherry Heering, ginger brandy and Stone ruination IPa, for one — impelled him to put together Brewing Up Cocktails with Grier. other Portland barkeeps are intrigued by beer cocktails, including acadia’s bar manager, Jabriel Donohue. “They’re fun,” he said. “I’ve always viewed beer as an integral part of cocktail culture and I think it’s hugely underrated.” Donohue did his part to reverse that with

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pubcrawL cont. a drink he whomped up for NovemBEEr Cocktails and hopes to have on the acadia menu soon enough, the Ursus rodeo. That’s made of 1 ounce of alameda Black Bear Imperial Stout, 1 ounce of 8 Seconds Canadian whiskey, ½ ounce of Drambuie, ¼ ounce of Grand marnier and a dash of regan’s orange Bitters, shaken vigorously and served up with an orange twist. He also won second Crowd Favorite with the drink in a Drambuie contest. Donohue said cocktails were best described to him as a condiment: “I’m looking for layers — I want the cocktail to happen in a couple of waves,” he said. “I’m more of a purist, instead of deconstructing a beer for its component flavors, I like to use what I’m given — I’d love to make a drink with one of Upright Brewing’s beers because they’re so layered. “I’d want to pair it most delicately because I don’t want to mess with it,” he said as he thought through a recipe. “I’d want to use something with high alcohol, I’d want to avoid

adding anything too sugary, because I don’t want to muddy it up — the beer would be the primary base so I wouldn’t want to shake it. It’d be incredible to use Upright’s Six (a dark rye beer) with the recently released 84-proof Galliano … .” Cassidy’s rouillier and Kopplin of Clyde Common also like beer for its fizz: “I like the carbonation for the texture it adds to a drink,” rouillier said. “It adds a sort of silkiness like Champagne does.” He and Kopplin took that observation to make what they called a Flemish 75 — a French 75 with Duvel ale instead of Champagne, aviation gin and lemon. “It’s a barley pop,” Kopplin said. “It’s a soda with more interesting flavors.” He’s pursued the fizz in what he calls a Portland 75: House Spirits white Dog corn whiskey, fresh lime and Pabst Blue ribbon, in a nod to the Portland hipster’s favorite pint. He usually picks a somewhat more substantial beer, however, and is interested in working with local brewers in coming up with new cocktails. “You want to be

Beer Cocktails Spoken Here: The Hop & Vine, 1914 N. Killingsworth St. (They’re planning another beer cocktail event this month.) playful and have fun with it,” he said, “but the drink needs to taste like beer because you don’t want to disrespect what the brewer’s given you.” over in the Southeast Cocktail District, the folks at Beaker & Flask have a traditional-with-a-twist take on beer cocktails: shandies and a new menu of boilermakers made with mini shots of cocktails such as manhattan, remember the maine and Blood & Sand. “we’ve always tried to do something with beer,” said owner Kevin ludwig. “we’re known for our cocktails, but we’ve got six taps and we’re steadily building our beer business — when we opened this place, we wanted to embrace all drinking: beer, wine, cocktails and coffee.”

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Beaker & Flask, 720 S.E. Sandy Blvd. Cassidy’s Restaurant and Bar, 1331 S.w. washington St. Acadia, 1303 N.E. Fremont St. Clyde Common, 1014 S.w. Stark St. The Beaker boilermakers allow bartenders to premix and chill batches of cocktails. Customers get a shot of the chosen cocktail in a small, frozen shot glass and a pint mug of beer. “People drop the shot in their own glass and they love it,” said ludwig. “It’s fun, it foams up and spills a bit on the bar, but we’re trying to have fun with it and not be so serious.” £

good cheese [ Elk Mountain, Pholia Farm, Rogue River, Oregon ] By Tami Parr

Name: Elk mountain milk: raw goat milk from the farm. age aNd look: large 7-pound wheels aged 7 to 10 months. driNk pairiNg: Try a terroir experiment: Serve with southern Oregon wines made near Pholia Farm, such as Carpenter Hill Petite Sirah or Daisy Creek Viognier.

Why We like this cheese: Small goats deliver big, big flavor.

PHOTOGraPHy By DOuG BEGHTEl, aBOVE aND jamiE FraNCiS, riGHT

What makes a cheese wine-friendly? On some level, cheese and wine pairings are subjective, a function of the palates of the imbibers. That being said, i think richer, more complex, aged cheeses work better. One-note cheeses — be they tart, salty or mushroomy — are more likely to get lost in the flavor shuffle. Elk mountain from Pholia Farm is just the type of cheese i’m talking about. Here’s an aged goat-milk cheese that makes you stop and savor. The palate adventure starts out a little tart, barrels through supple, nutty and foresty, then finishes with a comforting underlying warmth. in short, this is a cheese made to pair with wine. Cheesemaker Gianaclis Caldwell makes Elk mountain in southern Oregon from the milk of Pholia Farm’s herd of Nigerian Dwarf goats. What makes these goats unique is not just their diminutive size but also their ultra-rich milk, which has a much higher protein and butterfat content than milk from “regular” (i.e. full-sized) goats. This means it’s ideal milk for cheesemaking, and that quality is reflected in the finished product. Though Elk mountain’s intricate flavors start in the milk, they really develop once the cheese is made and begins aging in the cellar. Both on and under the surface of an aging cheese, a host of molds and microorganisms begin their work, breaking down the fats and proteins in the cheese, in the process producing all of those savory flavor nuances. Over time moisture slowly dissipates, further concentrating flavors and developing the dense intricacy of this cheese — a gorgeous expression of goat milk from the rogue Valley. £ Elk mountain is available at Cheese Bar, 6031 S.E. Belmont St., 503-222-6014.

walkabout / East 28th avE. [ The right place for an endless progressive dinner ] BY GRANT BUTLER / PHOTO ILLUSTRATION BY REED DARMON

1 58

One place to start the party is at the year-old Mother Maybel’s Martinis & Spirits (510 N.E. 28th Ave.; 503-2368541), which anchors the northern end of 28th. The business logo is adorned with a halo and a cartoon nun, but also olives and a monster-sized martini, suggesting that time spent here will be both divine and devilish. During the late-night happy hour, crowds gather for the dozen $5 food items, ranging from mini hamburgers and corn dogs to a combination plate of fried sin, with homemade potato chips, french fries and onion rings staring down your arteries. Go ahead and indulge. You can do your penance tomorrow.

NE glisaN st.

Farther south, you find the popular new watering hole Spints Alehouse (401 N.E. 28th Ave.; 503-847-2534; spintspdx.com), in a building that for years was a leather cleaning shop, and for approximately five minutes last year was a breakfast spot run by mercurial chef Morgan Brownlow. The cocktail menu features a lot of homemade ingredients, such as peach schnapps, rhubarb liqueur and oatmeal extract. If you’d rather eat your grains, there’s buckwheat crepes, one of the few nonpork dishes on the German-inspired menu.

NE 28th avE.

NE davis st.

with veggie wraps, salads, gourmet pizza and a selection of wine and microbrews. There are plenty of marquee restaurants here: Navarre, an inspired Mediterranean restaurant with a wine-bar vibe; Pambiche, a Cuban restaurant in an old building with an arcade front that’s painted tropical greens, yellow and raspberry to evoke hot Havana nights; Ken’s Artisan Pizza, serving arguably the best pizza Portland’s ever tasted; and Tabla, a posh bistro known for homemade pasta dishes and a great $24 three-course dinner deal.

NE flaNdErs st.

Over the past decade, East 28th Avenue — stretching from Southeast Pine Street across Burnside to Northeast Glisan Street — has emerged as one of the most food-focused parts of Portland. There are so many restaurants along this stretch of street that you could have dinner here every night for three weeks and never eat at the same place twice. And that’s not even counting all the coffee shops, taverns, chocolate and gelato shops that call this home. Even the neighborhood’s iconic Laurelhurst Theater, with its gleaming neon marquee and bargainpriced movies, gets in on the act, going way beyond the popcorn norm

3 Heading towards Burnside, there’s the City State Diner (128 N.E. 28th Ave.; 503-5170347; citystatediner.com), which moved in when the cheekily named Wine Down on 28th pulled up roots and headed to Northeast Alberta Street. City State serves allday breakfasts with items such as biscuits and gravy, crab scrambles and hazelnut challah French toast, which might entice some of the brunch crowd who line up for hours on weekends at nearby Screen Door.

sE 28th avE.

Now it’s time for some smut. Trouble is, beyond a few vintage copies of Playboy magazine, there’s not much smut to be found at SMUT Vintage (7 S.E. 28th Ave.; 503-235-7688; smutportland.blogspot.com), which is actually clever shorthand for “So Many Unique Treasures.” Among the treasures are vinyl LPs, old cookbooks and a couple of bins filled with old matchbooks from bygone restaurants, bars and hotels, from an era when smoking was so ubiquitous that even the local Kentucky Fried Chicken allowed customers to light up. There’s also a section of 1950s barware, much of it tiki-themed.

sE aNkENy st.

East burNsidE st.

Just across 28th, you’ll find Zim Zim Department Store (2805 S.E. Ankeny St.; 503-236-7178), which opened in late 2009 and offers a variety of girl-centric gifts and T-shirts. Owner Carla Lichter has assembled a collection of eclectic items that can freshen up any tired-looking table. Gather a bouquet of metal roses with barbed-wire stems and blossoms fashioned out of metal mango juice containers. For a little Russian whimsy, there are acrylic platters with nesting-doll patterns, and even a set of nesting-doll measuring cups. Zim Zim is part of a new condo/retail development that was built on the site that once was home to run-down dive bar Hungry Tiger. In the exact footprint where people would chain-smoke and play video poker for hours on end, there’s now a Pilates studio. Things sure do change.

6 There are plenty of new discoveries, too. Before hitting the sidewalks, fuel up at Crema Bakery & Cafe (2728 S.E. Ankeny St.; 503-2340206; cremabakery.com). This bright morning gathering place is the anchor tenant in one of designer-developer Kevin Cavenaugh’s earliest commercial projects, the Box + One Lofts, which helped spark East 28th’s revitalization. At Crema, get a Frenchpress pot of Stumptown Coffee to go with one of the decadent pastries or elaborately frosted cupcakes. If you’re here later in the day, there are homemade soups and simple sandwiches to tantalize. £

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Serving hand-crafted cornmeal crust pizza with all the appropriate accompaniments. Local draft beers, seasonal salads, house cured and smoked meats, vegetarian and vegan fare. Dine-in, take-out, par-bake.

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Open Daily 4 - 10pm 2727 NE Glisan St 503.239.4444 www.dovevivipizza.com

Butterscotch

Pizzicato

Butterscotch offers a wide range of unique gifts for just about every occasion. Gifts, Cards, Baby Shower Presents and a great selection of jewelry and accessories. We love helping you select that special gift for someone special. Join us for our annual Holiday Open House, Dec 3rd-4th-5th.

Pizzicato started in Portland in 1989, just a little ‘mom and pop’. Since then we’ve stayed as picky as ever about our ingredients. The pizza, salads, even the salad dressings - are made from scratch. Our pizza dough is a treasured family recipe. The ﬂour? It’s grown in our own back yard: Power Flour from Pendleton, Oregon (over 200 tons a years!)

We are open Tuesday-Saturday, 11-6pm and Sundays, 12-4pm.

2811 E. Burnside 503.263.6045 www. pizzicatopizza.com (Sign up for monthly coupons on our website.)

144 NE 28th Ave 503.234.6877 www.shopatbutterscotch.com

NE Davis

NE Couch

NE 28th Ave —>

4 5

Clementine Bistro 6

SE Ankeny

<—SE 28th Ave

E. Burnside St

Amazing cocktails, delicious comfort food with an authentic Southern twist, $2.99 Happy Hour menu, breakfast all day, kid-friendly before 7, open early on weekends. Whether you’re meeting friends for a drink, out on a romantic dinner date, watching the big game, or enjoying breakfast with the family, Clementine is the perfect gathering place. 510 NE 28th Portland, OR 97232 503.236.8541 www.clementinebistro.com

Serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, any time you want it.

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<—SE 28th Ave SE Stark Ave

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Mention this ad and receive 20% off all of our services now through November 30th, 2010. For more information, join us at www.etherealspa.com or become a fan on Facebook @ Ethereal Day Spa for special deals and announcements. We look forward to treating you. By appointment only. 211 NE 28th 503.245.5993 www.etherealspa.com

SE & NE 28th Ave. Marketplace

12 SE 28th Ave 503.235.8445 www.SpringPDX.com 9

SE Pine St

Spring Pilates Studio brings the beneﬁts of Pilates to all in our community through private sessions, duets, trios and small group classes.

City State Diner Hours: 8am - 10pm daily 128 NE 28th 503.517.0347 www.citystatediner.com

SE Ash St

Spring Pilates Studio

Small plates = big fun! Tapalaya is the planet’s ﬁrst small-plates restaurant serving up Cajun/Creole cuisine. Sample the ﬂavors, sights and sounds of New Orleans. Everything on the menu is made from scratch, with love. Open for dinner seven nights a week with a killer happy hour nightly 4:30-6:00pm (good cheap grub). Live music on Thursdays. Let the Good Times Roll! Happy Hour Nightly 4:30-6pm 28 NE 28th Ave 503-232-6652 www.tapalaya.com

Sidestreet Gallery Day of the Dead meets Halloween - two cultures come together! Sidestreet is ready for both! Come see our current show of original local art celebrating the season. And as always we have a fantastic collection of semi-rigid plastic light-ups, katrinas, ghosts, Dracula, and much, much more. Open 12 to 6, Wednesday through Sunday 140 SE 28th Ave 503.233.1204 www.sidestreetgalleryportland.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Bryan Palmer at 503.294.4131 or carolyne@sales.oregonian.com

eat here/corvallis [ Diverse selection of drinks and noshes, plus pizza fit for a president ]

barack obama went with the pizza place. And when visiting quaint Corvallis, we wouldn’t fault you for following in the footsteps of our discerning president and snagging a slice at American Dream Pizza (214 s.W. second st.; 541-753-7373; adpizza.com). the funky space is perennially packed, and with good reason: college kids and yearround residents crave the scratch-made, cheekily named pizzas such as the bob marley pie topped with Jamaican jerk chicken. but American dream is a mere slice of the Corvallis dining scene (plus, you can try the dream’s pizza without the long drive — it has a portland location, too). Corvallis visitors can also sample the eats and drinks at an upscale bistro, a smattering of independent brewpubs and bars and a riverfront farmers market within the quaint downtown blocks.

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eat here / corvallis cont. If you’re headed into town for a weekend stay — perhaps one timed to coincide with one of those famous fall football games — spend Friday night dining at Le Bistro (150 s.W. madison Ave.; 541-754-6680; lebistrocorvallis.com). In 2006, le bistro became Chef Iain duncan and his wife tonya’s first restaurant in town; the local restaurateurs have since created a mini-empire by opening Aqua seafood restaurant and bar; terzo West Coast Italian; and Flat tail brewing within a few downtown blocks. le bistro is more formal than the couple’s newer restaurants and remains the city’s sole white tablecloth restaurant. Couples linger in the intimate cream-walled dining room over bottles of wine and rich, country French-inspired dishes such as a lobster and seafood crepe bathing in a lush smoked salmon mornay sauce and pan-seared filet mignon. And for true Francophiles, there’s even escargot. rise early and swing by the Saturday Farmers Market (First street and Jackson Avenue; www.locallygrown. org) when it opens at 9 a.m. tucked amid the bustling farm stalls, you’ll find sugardusted doughnuts from Gathering together Farm, generously sized cinnamon rolls from oven & earth and sweet and savory crepes from Creperie du lys. Walk off breakfast with a stroll through Riverfront Commemorative Park, then cut back into downtown to explore the local shops. beer buffs should steer their wandering toward Corvallis Brewing Supply (119

s.W. Fourth st.; 541-7581674; lickspigot.com). the veteran shop stocks plentiful beer-making supplies, including more than 20 hop varietals and more than 70 types of malt. up front, shelves of beer, wine, sake and cider cater to shoppers who prefer to drink, not make, their beverage of choice. Just a few blocks away, Avalon Wine (201 s.W. second st.; 541-752-7418; avalonwine.com) narrows their bottle selection to wine, particularly northwest wines from small, passionate producers. drop by the corner store on saturday afternoons for free tastings of the staff’s latest finds. When you’re hungry for lunch, skip the frat boy scene at subway and head instead to Baguette (501 s.W. second st.; 541-752-9960). the sparse sliver of a sandwich shop deals exclusively in the Vietnamese specialty known as bánh mi. the friendly counter staff might suggest ordering their popular garlicginger chicken bánh mi, but pork lovers should take note of the eponymous baguette sandwich. It’s a swine-filled affair with Vietnamese hams, slices of Asian barbecued pork and pork pâté spread tucked into a house-made baguette. take your pick to the riverfront for an impromptu picnic. If you aren’t headed to the stadium for kickoff, pull up a bar stool at Block 15 Restaurant & Brewery (300 s.W. Jefferson Ave.; 541-7582077; block15.com) to catch the game. What feels like a comfortable, old community establishment only opened about two years ago. And yet, the ambitious brewers have already produced more than 90 styles of craft beer. during

riverfront Commemorative park

Avalon Wine

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big river restaurant & bar

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For reservations, call 503-736-9276 or browse dinner options online at ourhouseofportland.org

L.O. Kruse Way area

B Ave

▲ N

N State St

▲ N 3rd St

Kerr Parkway

C Ave

1st St

2nd St

eat here / corvallis cont.

Boones Ferry R d

L.O. Downtown area

A Ave

43 5

Evergreen Rd e Lak •

Ct Bay

Lakewood Bay 2

RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

American dream pizza fall, beer drinkers can sample seasonal brews such as the lightly spiced Jack straw amber ale or the Germanstyle marzen lager known as bloktoberfest. postgame, head to the opposite end of downtown, where Big River Restaurant & Bar and 101 (101 n.W. Jackson Ave.; 541-757-0694; 101atbigriver.com or bigriverrest.com) share a boxy sage-green building on the corner of northwest Jackson Avenue and First street. At the clubby 101 bar, the beer flows through ice taps, and plentiful flat screen televisions keep sports fans pacified with views of the espn ticker. A menu of upgraded bar bites features housemade lamb sausage with chimichurri and creamy potato salad, fries dusted with rosemary, garlic and pecorino romano, and wood-

fired pizzas just like the ones served next door. At big river, a more expansive, eclectic menu and comfortable, industrial northwest ambience attract date night couples and chattering groups of friends. A meal here might begin over a shared bowl of steamed manila clams, progress to a main course of caramelized onion ravioli and end with a piece of chocolate layer cake to send you off to bed. on your way out of town, make one final stop at that Corvallis institution, American dream, to experience the place obama praised (that’s him in the photographs at the downtown location). then you can make your own judgment about the pizzas. Just don’t let them be the only thing you eat while you’re in town.

Fine Middle Eastern Dining and family entertainment, located across from the PCC Sylvania campus. Kolbeh’s exquisite food is the talk of the town. Come in for an evening of spirits, conversation, dancing or to enjoy a variety of Shisha ﬂavors from our outside Hookah patio.

Come to Walter Mitty’s where all our tables are quaint & cozy. Enjoy your meal in the dining room or on our beautiful spacious patio. Try one of our specialties including steaks, fresh pasta, wilted spinach salad & Halibut ﬁsh & chips. Hours: Mon-Sat, 11am-midnight Sun, 1pm-9pm

Hours: Mon 11am-3pm; T-Thur 11am-9pm; Lunch Buffet: Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm $7.99 Fri 11am-10pm; Sat 12-10pm; Sun 12-6pm

11830 Kerr Parkway (Mt Park Plaza, opposite PCC Sylvania) 503.246.7153 www.waltermittys.com

11830 SW Kerr Parkway 503.245.1662 www.kolbehpdx.com •

THE ARTISAN CUSTOM FRAMING & GALLERY

With more than 40 years experience, our creative and dedicated team will help you choose the perfect design to best enhance your artwork and compliment your decor. Using hand-cut mats, museum glass, and hundreds of unique all-wood or metal frames, we work to insure our clients complete satisfaction. WE ARE NOT SATISFIED UNTIL YOU ARE! 267 A Avenue 503.635.4590 www.artisanframinglo.com 5

World Class Wines Exceptional wines at exceptional prices. • Affordable wines from around the world • Friday night tastings • Private tastings by reservation • Conveniently located 269 “A” Avenue 503.974.9841 www.worldclasswinesoregon.com

• DYKE VANDENBURGH JEWELERS See ad on page 56

Lake Oswego Marketplace To advertise in Marketplace contact Leah Davidson at 503.221.8300

eat here / corvallis cont. Corvallis essentials Oregon State University: take a stroll through the beavers’ campus or, if the ticket gods smile on you, catch a football game at rowdy reser stadium. Just don’t forget to bring your orange and black. (oregonstate.edu) McDonald-Dunn Forest: though osu students have been known to use this forested area for “research,” it also provides miles of wooded trails for local runners, walkers and hikers within a short drive of town. Benton County Wineries: A handful of wineries have taken up residence in the countryside surrounding Corvallis, including benton-lane Winery and broadley Vineyards. Just make sure to call ahead for tasting room hours before you leave town. (bentoncountywineries.com)

oregon state university

Downtown Farmers Market: some faces will be familiar to portland market-goers, but there are plenty of new vendors to explore at this community-driven downtown market, which runs saturdays through nov. 20. £

River Dining at Its Best

MARK’S ON THE CHANNEL

FLOATING RESTAURANT 30 MIN FROM PORTLAND

503.543.8765 www.MarksontheChannel.com 34326 Johnsons Landing Rd #17, Scappoose, OR

st a tT

CARLTON

Visit these and our other ﬁne businesses on your next visit!

Brookside Inn on Abbey Road Cana’s Feast Winery ~ Carlton Cellars Charrette Art Gallery ~ Cliff Creek Cellars Cuvée Restaurant ~ Filling Station Deli First Federal ~ Honest Chocolates Lobenhaus B&B ~ MonksGate Wine ~ Pihl Excavating Seven of Hearts Wine ~ Terra Vina Wines

rea AG

e h t f eo

ife! L d o o G

Historic Downtown Carlton ~ www.CarltonBusinessAssociation.com

FAMILY OWNED • ESTATE GROWN • SUSTAINABLY FARMED

Caring for the land… creating extraordinary wines

BENTON-LANE TASTING ROOM HOURS

March up to Christmas Daily: 11am to 5pm

January and February M-F: 11am to 5pm

23924 TERRITORIAL HWY, MONROE, OR (20 MILES NORTH OF EUGENE)

WWW.BENTON-LANE.COM

| 541-847-5792

scene

Olympic Provisions

our picks for what to eat where

COMPILED By: grant Butler CONTRIBuTORS: grant Butler Danielle Centoni Kathy Hinson Alexandra Manzano Katy Muldoon Roger Porter Nancy Rommelmann David Sarasohn Jake Ten Pas Amy Wang DeAnn Welker Michael C. Zusman

Get more of the Portland scene, at mixPdx.com

Positively Portland

Worldly places, with a distinct Stumptown imprint Ping 102 N.W. Fourth Ave. 503-229-7464 pingpdx.com How is it possible to not love a place that describes its cuisine as “Southeast Asian drinking food”? It helps considerably that Ping is assembled by Andy Ricker, who has researched the subject on Southeast Asian streets from Malaysia to Macao and burnished his restaurant skills at the laid-back but glistening Pok Pok on Southeast Division Street. It also helps that, tucked into a low-key Chinatown storefront, Ping looks and feels like a place you’d like to casually hang out and drink in — and incidentally munch a Macanese pork chop bun or a quail egg skewer. The whole idea of drinking foods is pungent tastes that make you want to drink some more. With half a continent to draw from, Ping nails that objective — small intense mouthfuls zinging with chili, tamarind, fish sauce and garlic, and concentrated dipping

sauces of a chopstick-melting assertiveness. And a Singapore sling helps the mood considerably. The Country Cat Dinner House & Bar 7937 S.E. Stark St. 503-408-1414 thecountrycat.net On the outer east side, halfway to the city limits but still close to the urban core, country cooking intersects with Portland hipster cool. Country Cat’s fantastic, eattill-you’re stuffed fare amps up the classics with complex, rich flavors. Cast-iron skillet chicken, for instance, wedges crisply fried hunks of meat between smoky/ tangy bacon-braised collard greens and a honey-slathered biscuit. The homey Molasses & Hickory-smoked Duck Leg rests on a decidedly sophisticated mustard seed spaetzle with bourbon/cider-soaked sour cherries. Keeping with the theme, servers nicely blend PDX cool with small-town friendly. A recent menu had one vegetarian option, but this place is all about the proteins; we refer you to the Whole Hog platter of pork: rolled belly, brined chop and smoked shoulder.

Lincoln Restaurant 3808 N. Williams Ave., No. 127 503-288-6200 lincolnpdx.com Anchoring the restaurant row along North Williams Avenue between Beech and Failing streets, Lincoln delivers a solid and creative slate of seasonally rotating dishes at a good value for neighbors who arrive by auto, bicycle and on foot. Chef Jenn Louis, a 2010 James Beard award nominee, runs the kitchen, while husband David Welch makes sure everyone entering the tallceilinged dining room is greeted, seated and content. The most inviting dishes tend to be from the menu’s Starter section, such as a recent tomato, pimenton and rosemary soup garnished with local shrimp ($8). Ned Ludd 3925 N.E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 503-288-6900 nedluddpdx.com It takes pluck to eschew the vast repertoire of modern kitchen technology and cook all your hot dishes in a wood-fired oven, honoring the memory of a legendary anti-industrialist. Owners Jason French and Ben Meyer have pluck. The primary outputs of the oven’s fire are found in the

“warmbits” and “plats” sections of the menu, which translate to hot appetizers and entrees, respectively. French’s butchery background surfaces with a fine charcuterie board ($15), while Meyer’s past in the vegetarian world finds voice with several standout salad options. Don’t miss Mac ’n’ Mornay ($6), an oozy/rich version of the cheese and pasta classic. Olympic Provisions 107 S.E. Washington St. 503-954-3663 olympicprovisions.com When a restaurant subtitles itself American Charcuterie, its message is clear: Olympic Provisions is all about its homecured meats. Except that it’s really about a lot more: small, reasonably priced dishes that turn a meal into a free-for-all party, an impressive vegetable creativity that never involves tofu; a surprisingly extensive wine and beverage list; and a vibrant scene in a neighborhood where there’s nothing else for blocks around. This year, Forbes magazine listed it among the best new restaurants in the country, PHOTOgRAPH By FAITH CATHCART

scene and who are we to argue? Clearly, Forbes sensed that Olympic Provisions’ pork-pistachio terrine, and its chocolate pot de crème, are better places to put your money than the derivatives market.

On the cheap

Where to go when you’re running low on dough.

yamhills A Gallery in the Country

Fine Arts, Crafts & Gifts 901 N. Brutscher St. Newberg, OR

503.538.1311 (near Fred Meyer)

www.yamhillsgallery.com Artist: Jan Rentenaar, Stoneware Horse 17.25” high

Exquisite Accommodations Private Dining Great Location

Open Daily, 10am - 5pm

A European Style Bed & Breakfast

809 NE Evans McMinnville, OR 97128 800.441.2214 -or- 503.434.9016 www.a-tuscanestate.com

Adem Ayem Cafe 11945 S.W. Pacific Highway (Oregon 99W), Suite 202, Tigard 503-639-7770 ademayemcafe.com Indonesian food has arrived in the suburbs — specifically, in a tiny storefront off Oregon 99W in Tigard. That’s good news if you’re looking for something heartier than Vietnamese but lighter than Chinese and tangier than Thai. And the proprietors just returned from their annual trip to Indonesia — presumably tanned, rested and ready to dish out more goodies. The entrees rotate regularly, with different specials featured Monday-Wednesday and Thursday-Saturday. Entrees are typically priced between $6.99 and $8.99. On a recent visit, the menu board featured a tasty soto betawi, a mildly curried beef (but not too beefy) stew served over rice ($7.99). Portions are relatively small but thoroughly filling. Amelia’s Restaurant 105 N.E. Fourth St., Hillsboro 503-615-0191 If you’re going to Hillsboro, the temptation might be great to stop at one of the many Mexican food chains that punctuate strip-mall walkways like upside-down exclamation points. Amelia’s Restaurant makes an even louder argument in the other direction. Family-owned and -run, its homemade tortillas, bittersweet mole and authentic take on chilaquiles is all you need to pull yourself away from Tanasbourne and head to downtown Hillsboro for the real deal. Right off the bat, you’ll notice tortillas instead of chips come with your bowl of pico de gallo. Pretty much every meal on the menu costs $9, including burritos, tacos, chiles rellenos, enchiladas, chilaquiles and house specialties such as the puntes de filete, or grilled beef tenderloin with grilled onions and serrano peppers, covered with tortillas and served with beans, rice and cabbage salad. Chilaquiles are a Mexican breakPHOTOgRAPH By MICHAEL LLOyD

fast staple made by frying strips of corn tortillas and covering them in salsa ranchera. This combo is drizzled with sour cream and can be topped with chicken, steak or eggs, depending on the time of day and tastes of the diner. Bakery Bar 2935 N.E. Glisan St. 503-477-7779 bakerybar.com This custom cake bakery adds cocktails, fresh-baked pastries and a fully loaded breakfast menu for a delicious morning stop where you can find almost anything you are looking for. Owners Dan Stoops and Jocelyn Barda combined their visions of a pub/bar and a retail bakery to create what became Bakery Bar. They churn out sophisticated cakes and custom-ordered pastries with the atmosphere, hearty food and buzz-inducing morning beverages to please traditional breakfast lovers and moderate foodies alike. Assorted fresh-baked pastries line the counter, each under $3; Brioche French Toast comes with vanilla custard, honey butter and blueberry syrup ($9); and hashes are full of house-made pastrami or local, seasonal vegetables hidden under two fried eggs ($10). For something heavier, try biscuits and gravy ($8.50) or the Migas with house-made chorizo ($9). Specialty morning cocktails ($5.50-$6.50) include a spiked bourbon caramel latte, a classic mimosa upgraded to a pint glass and a house-made Bloody Mary mixed to throat-warming spiciness. Pho Binh Minh 11945 S.W. Pacific Highway, Suite 242, Tigard 503-968-0121 you’d never expect from its stripmall location and a side room dedicated to video poker that Pho Binh

Bakery Bar PHOTOgRAPH By MICHAEL LLOyD

Black Rabbit Restaurant at McMenamins Edgefield Minh would offer such fresh and savory Vietnamese food. But once you get past the beer signs and shaded windows and into the stark room, you’ll wonder why you didn’t make it sooner. The menu variety isn’t great, but what it does, it does right, particularly when it comes to pho and bun. The menu offers four main entrees: pho (beef or chicken noodle soup), bun nuoc (noodle soup), bun (rice noodles) and com dia (rice dishes). you can’t go wrong with any of them, but pho ($6.75$8.50) and bun ($7.50-$8.50) are the surest things. If you’re daring, go for the pho specialty, Pho Binh Minh, named after the restaurant. It has the usually delicious broth and vegetables (on the side) with round steak, flank, tendon, shredded tripe, lean brisket and meatballs. If you’re not feeling as daring, there are tamer flavors, such as chicken and round steak.

Home-grown chains Among foodies, chains often get a bad rap. But some born-in-theNorthwest restaurants sling out fast, fairly priced, savory foods.

Burgerville 39 locations burgerville.com What if they took a burger joint and infused the menu with Northwest ingredients and pride? The result would be this small chain, where the pepper-bacon Tillamook cheddar cheeseburger reigns, a particular treat with rosemary shoestring potatoes and strawberry shakes. Don’t miss seasonal treats, like pumpkin shakes in the fall, and Walla Walla sweet onion rings in the summertime. Pho Van One Beaverton and two Southeast Portland locations phovanrestaurant.com The original Southeast 82nd Av-

enue location for Portland’s familyrun Vietnamese restaurant chain is known for its noodle soups (mi quang with yellow-tinted turmeric noodles being the standout). But there’s a commitment to intense flavors at its other outposts. Aromatic, just-plucked condiments accompany everything from crispy pork rolls to steaming soup. Not to miss: goi Sen, a salad of lotus root, shallots, daikon, cucumbers, mint, shrimp, pork and peanuts. Hot Lips Five Portland locations hotlipspizza.com Reliably excellent pizza with those nice cheese blisters (try the seasonal Carlton Farms smoked bacon) and yummy house-brewed sodas (try the blueberry) served by squadrons of cute counter boys and girls in a zillion locations (well, five). Family-owned, localingredient-sustained — what’s not to like? If available, go for a slice of the Waldorf — an olive oil base with apples, blue cheese and walnuts. McMenamins 50-plus locations mcmenamins.com The McMenamins empire includes pubs, breweries, hotels and theaters, often in historic buildings that have been redone with a touch of whimsy. In the city, you can often catch live music at the Bagdad and Mission Theaters, and dance on air at the Crystal Ballroom, which has a large room for concerts and the smaller Lola’s Room for DJ dance parties. Farther afield, there are gems like McMinnville’s Hotel Oregon, which has a rooftop bar with breathtaking views of wine country. At all of the outposts, you’ll find reliable pub grub — burgers, fries, pizza, soups and salads, plus their own distinct beers and wine from their historic Edgefield hotel, even their own homemade spirits. PHOTOgRAPH By LEAH NASH

WINERY OF OREGON

Releases of Limited Production Wines!

Taste and Shop for our Fine Wines at Red Ridge Farms October 9 & 10, 11am-4pm Enjoy three whites, three reds, a sparkling wine and our new release of 2007 Marina Piper noir. Including estate grown. All priced for everyday enjoyment. Premier tasting and shopping events held the second weekend of each month at Red Ridge Farms 5510 NE Breyman Orchards Rd., Dundee Hills 11am-4pm

phil@cottonwoodwinery.com

DELICIOUS FOOD

503.572.9869

FRIENDLY PEOPLE Fall is in the air. . . Have you booked your holiday party yet ? We accommodate groups of all sizes call us today 503.221.1195

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WWW.SERRATTO.COM

2112 NW KEARNEY ST PORTLAND OR

503.221.1195

Sellwood neighborhood

Blvd 1

SE Knapp St

SE 13th Ave

oo llw e S

vd Bl

SE Rex St

SE Malden St

SE Lambert St 6

Moreland Vision Source Come experience our exclusive optical gallery featuring hand painted, stained glass eyewear from Studio3 Occhiali, imported from Italy. We also carry famous designer eyewear such as Gucci, Liz Claiborne, Silhouette, Cole Haan, Lafont, Calvin Klein and Sean John, just to name a few. Stop by and check us out!

SE Milwaukie Ave

SE Rural St

SE Milwaukie Ave

SE Bybee

SE Bidwell St

7805 SE 13th Avenue 503.233.3731

▲ N

Farmhouse Antiques

SE Miller St

SE Harney St

SE 17th Ave

Finds Old & New

Sellwood’s favorite mini-mall! - Vintage jewelry - Hats - Furniture - Cast Iron - Glassware - Pottery - Post Cards - Holiday decor – And more! Always buying - 7 dealers. Open daily 11-5.

SE Spokane St

SE Tacoma St

Well-chosen antiques, art and curiosities

6539 SE Milwaukie Ave 503.236.6008 www.visionsource-moreland.com

SE Lexington St

M di Madison P Parkk Antiques

8028 SE 13th Avenue 503.232-6757

Finds Old & New offers a charming blend of old, very old, and not so old, treasures. Specializing in: • Vintage & artisan jewelry • Asian antiques • Furniture • Unique & eclectic ﬁnds We buy and welcome consignments. Open Tuesday to Sunday

7907 SE 13th Avenue 503.235.0892 8

CoCo Gets

Dressed We’re moving . . . but not far! Join us in early October at our new location in Westmoreland - 7011 SE Milwaukie Ave, right next door to our sister store CoCo Gets Dressed. Still the same charming shop with many treasures straight from the streets of Paris. Come see us in our new fabulous home! 7011 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.5999

Phenomenal Fall fashions have arrived! Rich colors, grays, blacks and whites along with new scarves and jackets. Always fashion forward, comfortable and easy care. Awardwinning jewelry artists and the ﬁnest collection of HOBO handbags, wallets and clutches reside here too! We’re not teasing when we say, “CoCo Gets Dressed has clothing that tickles your soul.” 7007 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.7777

Sellwood Marketplace

Now open in Sellwood! Serving all those seeking a better life with their dogs and cats. We strive to provide your dog with natural food, outdoor wear, toys, treats and beds. Find surprises at every turn for both you and your dog. Hours: Mon – Fri 9am – 7pm, Sat 9am – 6pm, Sun 11am – 5pm 8334 SE 17th Avenue. 503.239.1517 www.sellwooddogsupply.com

Framed Art Studios is: - an independent local shop - full of unique and crazy fun designs - committed to making you smile - a must on your list of to do’s! We offer custom picture framing, local art, antiques, and photo-restoration. Same locations as Designing Women. 8237 SE 17th Ave. 503.493.2880 www.framedartstudios.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Jeff Brosy at 503.221.8320 or jeffb@sales.oregonian.com

scene

neiGhborhood favorites doWntoWn / chinatoWn

Real Deals is a locally-owned mom & pop shop with the latest in both contemporary and traditional home décor. Our wide array of clocks, wall art, mirrors, signs, candles, ﬂoral, lamps and furniture are priced well below what consumers are used to paying, and our shopping experience will “wow” you!

Carafe: This feels like a real Parisian bistro, doling out traditional dishes and well-selected wines. A must for pre-theater dining before events at adjacent Keller Auditorium. (200 S.W. Market St.; 503-248-0004; carafebistro.com)

Open Thursdays & Saturdays 10-5. 1657 SE Tacoma St. Portland, OR 97202 503-206-7450 www.realdeals.net 10

Cravin’ Raven Enriching Sellwood’s status as a healthy-living hub is Cravin’ Raven Organic Bakery, the place that proves you don’t have to use white ﬂour, white sugar, or butter to make delectable treats. Try our healthy and delicious assortment of mufﬁns, cookies, cakes, and assorted treats, all organic and sweetened with agave nectar. Specializing in Gluten-free options. Catering Available. 8339 SE 13th Avenue 503-234-0603 www.cravinraven.com

Chef Naoko Bento Cafe: One of Tokyo’s pioneering organic chefs turns out authentic Japanese home cooking using top-notch local organic ingredients. (1237 S.W. Jefferson St.; 503-227-4136; chefnaoko. com) Clyde Common: Chic young locals and trendy out-oftowners commune over cocktails, and with happy hour bargains twice a day. (1014 S.W. Stark St.; 503228-3333; clydecommon. com) Good Taste Restaurant: What makes this an institution is the consistently gratifying goodness of won ton noodles made with duck and homemade pork and shrimp dumplings. (18 N.W. Fourth Ave., 503-223-3838) Grüner: Chris Israel is one of Portland’s culinary treasures, and he’s taken a bold step by featuring the Northern and Eastern European cooking that are unfamiliar to many. (527 S.W. 12th Ave.; 503-2417163; grunerpdx.com) The Heathman: A popular pre-theater dining spot that’s known for rich French dishes and an all-day Thursday happy hour that ranks among the best in the city. (1001 S.W. Broadway; 503-241-4100; heathmanhotel.com)

Springwater Trail bridge over McLoughlin Blvd in Sellwood

Higgins: During more than two decades, chef greg Higgins pioneered connections with local growers

and fishermen, and offered vegetarian options, seasonality and dishes you didn’t encounter elsewhere. (1239 S.W. Broadway; 503-2229070; higgins.ypguides.net) Kenny & Zuke’s: An eerily faithful simulation of a New york-style Jewish deli. The spin is that it’s all done Portland-style, with housesmoked meats, housebaked breads and microbrews on draft. (1038 S.W. Stark St.; 503-222-3354; kennyandzukes.com) Mother’s Bistro: The wakeup menu includes amply portioned plates of eggs, omelets and a wild salmon hash. At night, don’t miss the matzo ball soup, and special dishes by a rotating “Mother of the Month.” (212 S.W. Stark St.; 503-4641122; mothersbistro.com) Nel Centro: The latest venture from chef David Machado celebrates flavors of the Mediterranean, with a particularly strong emphasis on seafood. In warm weather, the outdoor courtyard seating is essential. (1408 S.W. Sixth Ave.; 503-484-1099; nelcentro. com) Ping: Chef Andy Ricker is out to change our view of Chinese food with this Chinatown venture with its menu loaded with grilled skewers, buns and noodles. (102 N.W. Fourth Ave.; 503229-7464; pingpdx.com) Saucebox: Dining in the glowy main room is as serene as the bar is thumping. All the better to enjoy the impressively rolled sushi or

for a comPlete listinG of our dininG revieWs Go to mixPdx.com

northWest

Caffe Mingo: Tables at thisItalian kitchen continue to be among the most soughtafter along Northwest 21st Avenue’s busy restaurant row. The allure is top-grade hospitality from owner Michael Cronan and his convivial servers, combined with the winning pastas and risottos priced around $18 or less. (807 N.W. 21st Ave.; 503-226-4646; caffemingonw.com)

Andina: The dining room offers upscale Peruvian meals that will set you back about $100 for two, with well-executed main dishes. But the real fun is in the bar, where creative South American cocktails are a specialty. (1314 N.W. glisan St.; 503-228-9535; andinarestaurant.com)

Fenouil: Jake Martin, formerly of Carlyle, has transformed the restaurant from a mediocre bistro to a palace of sumptuous, innovative, beautifully prepared dishes that blend the Northwest and France. (900 N.W. 11th Ave.; 503-5252225; www.fenouilinthepearl.com)

Bar Mingo: Chef Jerry Huisinga helped make the legendary genoa one of the crown jewels of the city’s dining scene. Now as the kitchen honcho of this spinoff from next door’s Caffe Mingo, he cooks homey Italian, making everything by hand, from sausages to ricotta. (811 N.W. 21st Ave.; 503-4454646; barmingonw.com)

Fratelli Ristorante: Italian cooking from a broad, appealing menu, ranging from bruschetta to homemade ravioli to slow-cooked boar. you’ll find great happy hour deals at next door’s Bar Due. (1230 N.W. Hoyt St., 503-241-8800; fratellicucina.com)

roasted Javanese salmon. (214 S.W. Broadway; 503241-3393; saucebox.com) Tom’s First Avenue Bento: One of downtown’s best — and busiest — lunch spots, known for grilled and spicy salmon filets, teriyaki chicken and panko-crusted scallops. (1236 S.W. First Ave.; 503-241-3373)

BeWon Korean Restaurant: Portland’s best and most ambitious Korean restaurant offers a wide range of dishes, including rice porridges, pan-fried seafood and pickled kimchi. (1203 N.W. 23rd Ave., 503464-9222; bewonrestaurant. com) Bluehour: Chef Kenny giambalvo’s down-to-earth evergreen hits, such as romaine spears with Caesar dressing, meltaway gnocchi and stand-up risotto, are rock solid. Beyond the reliables, the menu breathes with renewed vigor, particularly seafood. (250 N.W. 13th Ave.; 503226-3394; bluehouronline. com)

The Gilt Club: At this sexy restaurant, mad-scientist bartenders specialize in infused spirits and inventive Champagne cocktails, and the menu offers French-influenced Northwest dishes with some complexity and finesse. (306 N.W. Broadway; 503-222-4458; giltclub. com) Hiroshi: Revel in real-deal sushi at Hiro Ikegaya’s Pearl District bastion of top-tier, uncompromisingly fresh seafood. Hiro is one of a vanishing breed of artisan sushi masters — everpresent front and center behind his 10-seat sushi bar, serenely slicing and meticulously crafting fine fish creations. (926 N.W. 10th Ave.; 503-619-0580)

HAND-BLOWN GLASS

hiGh five suPer salads

Cafe yumm We’re all supposed to get plenty of greens in our diet, but there are so many inferior salads out there — yucky, over-dressed messes, or ones using lettuce that’s past its prime — that you might just skip that portion of the menu altogether. These five — all with an Asian or Latin twist — are worth seeking out. — COMPILED By gRANT BuTLER

503 234 1614

825 NE Multnomah, Suite 280 Lloyd Center Tower across from the Nordstrom’s skybridge

Artistically crafted, distinctive pinot noir – more flavor for your dollar WX Unique wines including Dolcetto & Muscat WX At your favorite wine shop WX Make an appointment or visit us

Thanksgiving or Memorial Day Weekends

503-662-5609

www.staghollow.com

7930 NE Blackburn Rd., Yamhill, OR 97148 By Appointment

PORTLAND AIRPORT

503.284.9929 DOWNTOWN PORTLAND

503.223.9510 W W W. T H E R E A L M O T H E R G O O S E . C O M

Secret Asian Man Salad at Cafe Yumm: Besides having a cool name that makes you think of Asian action stars like Chow yun Fat and Jackie Chan, this $6.95 salad packs plenty of crunch, thanks to an abundance of crispy chow mein noodles and slivered almonds. Mixed greens are tossed with shredded carrot and diced tomatoes, then topped with either seasoned tofu, chicken or turkey, with a ginger-miso dressing served on the side. 1806 S.W. Sixth Ave. 503-226-9866 cafeyumm.com Ensalada Espinaca at Agave Grill: This tasty new addition to Bridgeport Village’s dining scene is the perfect spot for grabbing a bite before seeing the latest IMAX extravaganza at the theater directly across the street. A for-sure culinary blockbuster is the $9.50 baby spinach salad, tossed in cilantro-lime vinaigrette and topped with toasted almonds, mushrooms, hardboiled egg, pickled vegetables and Cotija cheese. There’s easily enough for two people to share, leaving plenty of room for chips and salsa. 7361 S.W. Bridgeport Road, Tigard 503-372-9152 agavegrill.net Tiger Garden Salad at Isabel Pearl: This Pearl District kitchen is known for its fusion of Latin and Asian flavors, and you see it in clear focus with this $7.50 East-meetsSouthwest salad. Crispy greens are topped with bean sprouts, fried won-ton strips and orange segments. It’s served with an oil-free citrus dressing that will leave you feeling virtuous and dreaming of the tropics. For $3, you can add cubes of marinated tofu to

pump up the protein. 330 N.W. 10th Ave. 503-222-4333 isabelscantina.com Thai beef salad at Red Onion Thai Cuisine: At Chef Dang Boonyakamol’s spicy Thai spot on Northwest 23rd Avenue, the biggest surprises come with the specials that aren’t on the regular menu or the specials board — they’re so under the radar you have to ask your waiter about them. If you aren’t up for the cat-and-mouse game, there are reliable standards, like a generous Thai beef salad, loaded with grilled rib-eye, tomato, cucumber, lemon grass, onions and kaffir lime leaf, all tossed with lime dressing. The fire coming from the chile-infused meat dazzles, while the greens and citrus cool things down. 1123 N.W. 23rd Ave. 503-208-2634 Chinese Chop at Pizzicato: Most people head to Pizzicato to get gourmet takes on traditional pizza, but the salad offerings shouldn’t be missed. The standout is the Chinese Chop, a slawlike blend of red and green cabbage, lettuce, carrots, peanuts and crispy wonton noodles, all tossed in a sweet and slightly spicy Asian dressing. A word of caution about sizes: the $4.25 small is the side salad; the $7.50 medium is a big leap up, with enough greens for two people to have as entrees; and the $10.25 large will feed three or four people. Multiple locations, including 705 S.W. Alder St. 503-226-1007 pizzicatopizza.com PHOTOgRAPH By JAMIE FRANCIS

downtown

McMinnville, Oregon

VISIT HISTORIC DOWNTOWN McMINNVILLE Nestled in the heart of Oregon’s wine country, historic downtown McMinnville offers great food, wine and shopping. Charming historic buildings and trees line Third Street, where shoppers can revel in the eclectic selection of stores offering clothing, accessories, crafts, art galleries, jewelry, kitchen gadgets and gourmet food.

October 7 Farmers’ Market 14 Farmers’ Market 16 Art & Wine Walk 31 Safe & Sane Halloween

November 20 Art & Wine Walk 26 Annual Santa’s Parade and Tree Lighting 28 Oregon Trail Band Christmas Concert

December 11 Holiday Open House 18 Art & Wine Walk

Taste some wine and check out the fun, unique labels at Twelve. Small production Pinot Noirs plus an intriguing white wine simply called Estate Wine. All are made from grapes grown at their own 12.5 acre vineyard. 503-435-1212. Just next door is Honest Chocolates where you can watch the staff dip chocolates by hand right in the store. Their caramels – made with local blackberry honey and topped with French sea salt – are highly addictive. They also feature a line of wine-tasting chocolates. 503-474-9042. Bistro Maison offers authentic French bistro cuisine served up in a cozy cottage-style house complete with abundant flowers and outdoor patio. Choose from favorites such as saffron rich bouillabaisse, moule frites and rich slow-cooked cassoulet. Its warm atmosphere, cozy tables and satisfying menu have made the Bistro a local and tourist favorite. 503-474-1888. Double D Music carries the finest musical instruments and accessories ever made. Staffed by a knowledgeable crew, they take time to answer your questions and set you up with the perfect instrument. Lessons and rentals also available. 503-472-1816. Relax and enjoy a signature fresh juice martini or local wines at Olive You. Affordable, creative, and carefully prepared menus focus on fresh and flavorful cuisine, showcase locally grown products, all served in a charming historic space. 503-472-8700. Timmreck & McNicol Jewelers, one of the bright spots downtown featuring custom

diamond buying from Antwerp, Belgium. Their next trip is end of this month – their 39th trip! 503-472-6812. Every corner of Found Objects is filled with an eclectic mix of new gifts and home accessories. The prices at this boutique are as appealing as the goods. 503-474-3711. Heralded as one of the best restaurants in the state, Nick’s Italian Cafe serves a five-course prix fixe menu with entrees inspired by local and seasonal ingredients with Italian roots. Wine list has its focus on Oregon Pinot Noir and Italian selections. 503-434-4471. Wine Country Kitchen is a colorful shop packed with quality kitchen items for home chefs and accessories to celebrate the love of wine. 503-883-4190. R Stuart is an inviting spot that doubles as a favorite meeting place for locals to enjoy a glass of Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir or even bubbly. Small plates pair perfectly with the wines. 503-472-4477. Deftly blending Spanish influences and classics with the freshest ingredients the Northwest has to offer, La Rambla provides a welcoming vibe to everyone from couples seeking an intimate meal to groups ready to top off a day of wine tasting with good food. 503-435-2126. Styles hot off the runways of Las Vegas, from hip-hop to ballet, The Dance Boutique features the latest in dance wear from “Dancing with the Stars” and “So You Think You Can Dance.”

Check out the fabulous tutus from “Posh” and “Lola Girl.” 503-580-3016. Golden Valley Brewery is a European style brewery and restaurant dedicated to providing fresh handcrafted food, beer, and local wines since 1993. Steaks and burgers are made with their own all-natural Angus beef, tender raised in spring-fed pastures. Menu items are made in house using fresh local ingredients. Full bar, 10 beers on tap. 503-472-2739. McMenamins Hotel Oregon is a charming historic outpost boasting incredible views from their Rooftop Bar and patio. Originally built in 1905, the hotel is a great place to meet with friends and family for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Outstanding collection of handcrafted ales, wines or spirits. Live music in the Cellar bar. 503-472-8427. Smell the heavenly scent of Ribslayer BBQ to-go. Just follow your nose and be treated to a mouth-watering selection of BBQ ribs, chicken and pork. 503-472-1309. Spa Cha Cha on Evans Street, an exciting new boutique spa, offers wine enthusiasts an opportunity to add another level of indulgence to their wine country experience. The cosmopolitan decor has a big city feel, but the customer service is excellent and treatments are individual as you are. 503-883-0220. Check out DowntownMcminnville.com