MIX Magazine September 2010 by Mix Magazine

Portland’s Magazine of Food + Drink September ’10 10 Portlands

Yes, you can make good coffee Home-schooling for home-brewers Revolutionary pickling Lessons in bacon

6 lessons for living well in Portland

SEPTEMBER 2010

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COMPLIMENTARY ISSUE OF MIX Want to subscribe? Go to MIXPDX.COM or see the subscription card inside for details

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editor’s note This September issue of MIX has a theme: back to school. Lazy days of summer are over (sniff), and while we hope the warm weather sticks with us awhile longer, we’re ready to organize our psychic pencil boxes and three-ring binders and learn some important skills, things that anyone who cares about good food should know. So though we hope every issue of MIX contains educational material, in this issue we set out to teach you on purpose:

1. How to make a perfect cup of coffee, with a survey of the best methods for brewing coffee at home, including the ultra-precise, geeked-out attention to detail that only the city’s best baristas can bring.

Want to be sure you get every issue of MIX? Subscribe! 10 issues, $19.95 Go to mixpdx.com or call 503-221-8240.

2. How to brew beer. Well, our article doesn’t teach you to brew, but it teaches you how you can learn yourself, with a look at beer classes,

books, supply stores and other inspirational resources that can help you get your mash tun on.

3. How to pickle a vegetable. If it’s edible, it can be transformed into a tangy-salty pickled version of itself. We introduce you to a few of the many Portland pickle fanatics and give you some recipes to get started.

4. How to make bacon, which we’re considering the gateway to more hard-core charcuterie. Bacon is about semi-immediate gratification, going from fatty pork belly to fatty-crisp delicacy in your skillet in only a couple of weeks — with no pesky lactic fermentation! — so it’s a great way to get a taste of meat-curing.

friends and family — and still keeping a sense of humor — in Piper Davis’ Friday Night Dinner Party. There are, of course, other important life skills to master — roasting a chicken, toasting pine nuts, making a perfect martini (stir it, please) — but maybe these are for future issues. The ongoing lesson is about capturing the moment, whatever it is. In this picture with my daughter (stripes) and her friend, you see me capturing an impossibly sweet late summer Portland evening with a picnic dinner at Skidmore Bluffs. I’m also capturing some impossibly chewy crusts from a Depokos pizza (learn more on Page 16). And underneath it all, I’m trying to capture the exquisitely ordinary moments that I can still share with her before she moves on to her own life of learning, hopefully armed with a few skills that will help her craft a life full of good food and drink.

5. That milkshakes aren’t just for kids, when Portland bartenders give us the scoop on floats and shakes made with beer and booze. 6. And we present a case study for how to eat improvisationally with the seasons while cooking for

Martha Holmberg, editor mix.martha.holmberg@gmail.com

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SEPT/’10 30 Portland

brines The city’s awash in piquancy with the new wave of picklers.

40 it all starts

with bacon Obsessed with charcuterie? Get a taste of curing by making your own bacon.

46 how to make

coffee like a Pro Baristas share best practices for brewing the best cup

Lesson Number One: When pickling beets, do not wear a white T-shirt. Learn more about pickling, Page 30. PHOTOGRAPH BY RANDY L. RASMUSSEN

IN EvERY ISSUE 12 STARTERS Over-the-top crepes, real Hawaiian, design with taste

24 FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER PARTY Piper Davis rolls with the harvest

71 EAT HERE/ORCAS ISLAND Delectable destination between sea and sky

19 ONE DISH/ THREE WINES What to do with fiery cayenne?

55 MIXMASTER Ice cream floats and shakes that are definitely not for kids

75 SCENE What to eat where

23 GOOD CHEESE Vella Dry Jack, an American original

61 WALKABOUT Edible images of Northeast Alberta

65 PUBCRAWL Raise your GPA in IPA at beer school

ON THE COVER: Ryan Cross inhales an espresso at Ristretto coffee shop, Page 46. PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH NAKAMURA

MIXPDX.COM MIX is now 10 issues a year! It’s easy to subscribe online — go to MIXPDX.COM and click on “subscribe.” You can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixpdx.com, so get clicking and start eating.

contributors

One of photographer Beth Nakamura’s earliest sensory memories is the smell of coffee. And that’s because she was called upon early in life to make it. “And I mean early,” she recalls. “It seems unspeakable in today’s world but, seriously, I was barely out of training wheels when I learned the ways of Mr. Coffee.” Making coffee was, for her, “The quickest road to my mother’s attention. I would brew it just how she liked it. And then I would carefully carry the hot cup and saucer up the stairs and into her bedroom. Surely that path was, over time, stained with spills. But I would get it there. And it would wake her up. A few sips and, for the briefest of moments, she was all mine.” Page 46.

B A B E T T E S F. C O M

2 0 8 N. W. 1 3 T H A V E N U E , P O R T L A N D

OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GRaNt ButleR, MattHew CaRd, KatHeRiNe Cole, JoHN FoyStoN, aSHley GaRtlaNd, teRi GelBeR, taMi PaRR, KRiS wetHeRBee OTHER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS/ ILLUSTRATORS aNdRew BuRtoN, FaitH CatHCaRt, MiKe daviS, JaMie FRaNCiS, toRSteN KJellStRaNd, Motoya NaKaMuRa, SuSaN SeuBeRt, JoHN M. viNCeNt

Randy Rasmussen grew up distancing himself from his mom’s pickled beets. Not that they probably weren’t good but they were pickled! So after immersing himself in the world of Portland pickles, he finds it regretful not to be able to go back in time and sample his mom’s efforts. Rasmussen is a staff photographer for The Oregonian, where he has worked since 1981. He and his wife, Cinda Hugos, grow beets, just for pickling. Page 30.

Susan G. Hauser is the immediate past president of Portland Culinary Alliance and a longtime freelance writer whose byline has appeared in regional and national publications ranging from The Oregonian to O, the Oprah Magazine. While working on the Portland pickling story, her big moment came when she got to introduce Lisa Neusihin (Mrs. Neusihin’s granddaughter) to David Barber of Picklopolis. “I was present at the meeting of Portland pickle royalty,” she says. “What a thrill!” Page 30.

Hank Shaw is “the omnivore who has solved his dilemma. I write. I fish. I dig earth, forage widely, live for food and kill wild animals,” Shaw says. A former line cook, fisherman and political reporter, he now writes and caters around Northern California for a living. His work has been published in, among other places, The Art of Eating and Field & Stream, and he is currently writing a book with Rodale Press about opening up the world of foraging, hunting and fishing to those interested in food but who may have never hunted mushrooms or picked up a gun or cast a rod and reel before. Page 40.

“I am constantly hearing from customers, ‘Why doesn’t the coffee I make at home taste like the coffee at the cafe?’ ” says Nancy Rommelmann, who wrote this month’s “How to Make Coffee” and who is married to Din Johnson, owner and roaster for Ristretto Roasters. As for whether marital proximity means she herself makes great coffee, Rommelmann says, apparently not. “When I tell my husband in the morning, ‘I’ll make the coffee,’ he invariably jumps out of bed and says, ‘I’ll do it.’ ” Rommelmann writes for The Oregonian, the LA Weekly and Bon Appétit. Her work can be read at www.nancyrommelmann.com. Page 46.

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starters “It’s this terrifying attempt not to waste all the hard work that the farmer did. Basically, everything my farmer has grown in her field, we have pickled, from green beans to things I never thought to pickle, like raab and kale, and every fruit she’s ever grown.”

sweet

Crepes with character

— Chef John Taboada, on the pickles he makes at Navarre

Page 30

to do

September Mojo Crepes 8409 S.E Division St., 503-208-3195

Through Sept. 30

Ditch your Bisquick for the real thing September is National Biscuit Month, in honor of the breakfast staple that’s good with butter and jam but even better smothered in gravy. get into the spirit with pilgrimages to some of the city’s best biscuit makers: gravy, podnah’s pit, genies, Fat Albert’s, Screen Door and — of course — pine State biscuits. Sept. 4-6

A blend of arts and bites For 14 years, Art in the Pearl has been the perfect unofficial summer finale, bringing top artists and craftspeople to the pearl District’s north park blocks. It’s a tasty treat, too, with vendors dishing up everything from African and Nepalese dishes to grilled salmon Caesar salad. artinthepearl.com Sept. 11

A totally jammin’ cook-off Dutch ovens are a classic way to cook by campfire, and now you can show off your skills with Estacada’s Dutch Oven Cook-Off and Blackberry Jam Acoustic Music Festival. While musicians gather for an old-fashioned circle jam, cooks compete with their best one-pot entrees and desserts. philipfosterfarm.com

more to do

What do Japanese-style crepes, Taiwanese shave ice and a demonically adorable hamster-like character have in common? Nothing — unless you’ve discovered Mojo Crepes, the bright, clean frozen dessert shop out on Southeast Division Street run by local high school and college pals Mo Nguyen and Jon Hopkins. The crepes start like their French counterparts, but then get a scoop of ice cream, a smear of this or that and a topping or two before they’re rolled up cone-style and wrapped tightly to make them transportable — such as the Smore, with marshmallows, crushed graham cracker, chocolate sauce, whipped cream and the scoop of your choice from among eight ice cream flavors. Nguyen picked up this West-meets-East treat wandering San Francisco’s Japantown while employed there. The Taiwanese shave ice idea wasn’t part of the original business plan but was suggested by a friend, and it fit the Asian dessert theme perfectly. The pair import cylinders of frozen, lightly sweetened milk and then shave them thin in a big yellow shaving machine. Nguyen swears that the shave ice is low-calorie (without the sauces, silly!). Which bring us to Mojo. It’s a character Nguyen conjured (the name is a compound of Mo and Jon) that was supposed to be a monkey, but even Nguyen agrees that he bears a much closer resemblance to a blissed-out domesticated rodent (Mojo, not Nguyen). Mojo is plastered all over the walls of the shop, on all the packaging materials and on the shop’s website (mojocrepes. com) — invariably smiling sweetly and holding a crepe. — MICHAEl ZuSMAN

pHoTogrApHy by FAITH CATHCArT

read this now / wholesome Pastry If quinoa and kamut don’t make your mouth water, then you haven’t baked from Good to the Grain. In her debut book, author Kim boyce ventures into new territory, combining a cornucopia of grains, nuts, seeds and flours to get the biggest flavors possible. Her delicious results are eye-pleasing rustic sweets, more homey than hippie. boyce’s wholesome adventure began with a bag of 10-grain pancake mix from bob’s red Mill, and from that moment on, there was no end to her multigrain obsession. Except for her thoughtful techniques, attention to detail and scrupulous recipes (that’s a lot), there’s little evidence of her starred pastry chef past, “Seems like another

lifetime ago,” she grins, remembering her time at Spago and Campanile in los Angeles. A self-proclaimed “grain geek,” now boyce veers toward the nuttier, seedier side of baking. Think honeyed hazelnut cookies, maple oat waffles, quinoa beet pancakes and figgy buckwheat scones. Still relying on white flour and sugar for structure and levity, the recipes bring out the best in grains we never knew what to do with. bonus: boyce has relocated to portland, so we get to taste her bounty firsthand. Sample her streusel-topped Carrot Muffins, and you’ll never scoff at spelt again. (you can find her homebaked goods at ristretto roasters.) — TErI gElbEr

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opener

Sept. 11-12

Something wild! The famed Newport Fishermen’s Wives present the Newport Wild Seafood Weekend, featuring the great Newport Wild Seafood Cook-off, with 20 teams, both professional and amateur, battling for more than $2,500 in prize money and the honor of being “best at the bay.” newportfishermenswives.com Sept. 13-17

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lan Su Chinese garden celebrates the 11th anniversary of its opening with Happy Birthday Week, featuring Chinese games and free birthday cake with admission. What’s a birthday without cake, after all? lansugarden.org Sept. 16-19

Yodel your heart out With its rolling hillsides and old Worldstyle buildings, you can imagine Mount Angel sitting somewhere in bavaria, which makes it the perfect setting for Oktoberfest. on top of the requisite bands and dancing, you’ll find plenty of german fare with suds to wash it all down. byo lederhosen. oktoberfest.org

Sept. 18-19

Fruit Loop — the place, not the cereal Talk about the perfect day trip! Head east to Hood river for the Fruit Loop Pear Celebration 2010, where farms will be selling 18 varieties of pears and partying with live music, barbecue, special pear desserts, even a corn maze. hoodriverfruitloop.com Sept. 24-26

This place is hoppin’ Hops are essential for beer, and the small Willamette Valley town of Independence celebrates the harvest with its annual Hop & Heritage Festival, a bit of old-fashioned Americana with a petting zoo, local bands and — natch! — a beer garden. independencehopandheritage.com

Aloha, Oy! Ate-oh-Ate Hawaii native ben Dyer — onethird of the meat elite that owns 2452 E. Burnside St. [no phone yet] outstanding steakhouse and ate-oh-ate.com butcher shop laurelhurst Market along with brunch fave Simpatica Dining Hall — is confident portlanders will take to the food from his home state like ducks to rain. With the opening of Ate-oh-Ate (a play on Hawaii’s area code) scheduled for Sept. 1, he’s convinced a few people, anyway, namely his business partners, Jason owens and Dave Kreifels. Dyer speaks reverentially about Hawaiian cuisine: “It’s a reflection of Hawaiian culture that is an amalgamation of numerous other cultures, including Japanese, Chinese, portuguese and mainlander and has its roots in the laborers brought to Hawaii in the late 1800s to work on the sugar and fruit plantations.” To the complaint that a lot of the Hawaiian food served locally and even in Hawaii isn’t so great, Dyer falls back on the laurelhurst/Simpatica rep for high quality and adds, “We’re not out to re-create the wheel, but rather build a wheel that rolls more smoothly and faster than everyone else’s.” Nice analogy, ben, but what’s the translation? Think plates of smoky juicy kalua pig, Korean-style kal-bi beef short ribs or shoyu chicken, boneless thighs roasted in ginger — and star anise-infused sweet shoyu sauce. All use top quality meats — naturally — with nothing priced much over $10, including traditional double-starch sides of rice and mac salad. Then there’s authentic Hawaiian shave ice, spinning ice blocks shaved fine and fluffy and simply doused with syrup in the traditional way or paired with Ate-oh-Ate’s own ice cream. And to the last burning question, no, they are not crafting some gentrified version of the Hawaiian cuisine stalwart, canned Spam. Dyer declares, “If we make our own, is it still Spam? I don’t think so.” Spoken like a true Hawaiian. — MICHAEl ZuSMAN

Ap pHoTo

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pHoTogrApH CourTESy oF AlDEr & Co.

At Alder & Co., shopping for kitchenware is akin to a treasure hunt. The owner, Carla Helmholz, has an eye for handcrafted gems from across the globe. Horie Touki, a Japanese line of ceramics, gets its exclusive West Coast debut here: Creamy Alder & Co. scallop-edged plates, porcelain cheese 537 SW 12th Ave. sets and delicate cups beg to be touched. 503 224 1647 The locally handmade paper mobiles are alderandcoshop.com whimsical conversation pieces, and Fog linen’s (another artisanal Japanese line) checkered aprons and crisp tea towels make late-night dishwashing a fashion event. The wish list goes on: stitched leather potholders, French scented candles and laminated linen trays. After the escapade, come back to your portland senses and carry home your loot in a French market basket or nylon eco-sack. — TErI gElbEr

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Located on the sunny side of the Cascades, The Dalles provides easy access to skiing on Mt. Hood, white water rafting on the Deschutes, windsurfing and boating on the Columbia, hiking and mountain biking in the National Scenic Area, cycling the quiet back roads, and fishing for salmon, steelhead, trout and sturgeon. Or, for something more relaxing, check out our fabulous wines, art galleries, historic sites, museums, concerts and festivals.

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All of the pies we’ve tasted are 2730 N. Killingsworth (at Greeley) excellent, from the minimalist 503-247-7499 za’atar (a thin but crunchy vepizzadepokos.blogspot.com neer of sesame seeds, herbs and spices) to the voluptuous, almost-a-casserole-on-a-crust special of pork pibil, mozzarella, Cotija, onions and cilantro. Though the toppings are enchanting, it’s mostly the crust that keeps us coming to the rough-and-tumble eruption of food carts at North Killingsworth and greely, where Depokos pizza is the anchor. Tucked into a former auto detailing shop — no, wait, wasn’t that a lumber supply place? — the oven that owner and chief pizzaiolo Ethan Welt hand built and stokes to 900 degrees is where the magic takes place. After a long, cool fermentation — and a healthier dose of salt than many pizza doughs around town — the sourdough crusts are stretched, topped, then introduced to 900-degrees of Fahrenheit no-fooling-around, which cooks the pizzas in about 90 seconds, rendering them blissfully blistered, on the verge of charred and extremely, beguilingly chewy. — MArTHA HolMbErg

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one dish, three wines [ Pungent grilled lamb and eggplant meet their mellow match ] REcIPE By MATTHEW cARD SToRy By KATHERINE coLE PHoToGRAPHy By MoToyA NAKAMURA

Throughout the Mediterranean, the Balkans and the Middle East, from Northern Africa to Southern Asia, you’ll find lamb and eggplant on the table together, often in the same dish. It’s moussaka in Greece. It’s Hünkar Begendi (Sultan’s Delight) in Hunkar in Turkey. It’s curry in India. It’s Rosticini con Melanzane Picante in Italy (at least, it is according to Mario Batali). Why two such pungent staples should work so well as a team is one of the mysteries of culinary study. Lamb tends to have a gamy flavor, which is why it is so often flavored with lemon, garlic or mint. Smoky, sour eggplant responds well to salt, garlic and fresh herbs. Both taste their finest when charred to perfection on the grill.

one dish, three wines cont.

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our audacious recipe developer, Matthew card, has us grilling lamb and eggplant, then delicately flavoring them with cumin for spice, mint for brightness, parsley for herbaceousness, and lemon and garlic to punch things up. And then heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gone and confused things by adding chiles, cayenne and tomatoes. From a dining perspective, we approve. From a wine perspective, we despair. Which is why we called up three of our fave local oeno-experts to recommend wine matches for this delicious, but difficult, dish. Their choices hail from Washington, northern Italy and Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s RhĂ´ne Valley. They are two reds and one white: a cab blend, a syrah and a sauvignon blanc. But contrary to what you might be thinking, the reds are not peppery, smoky, fruit-driven powerhouses. The white is not pungent, snappy and sinus-clearing. Because the one factor these three wines have in common is that they are softer, gentler versions of the varietals you know. The reds are intentionally aged; the white is fermented in neutral oak. These are the practices of winemakers who understand that, in order to be effective with a meal, a wine should show restraint. So go ahead and pile on the cayenne. These wines can handle it.

THE DISH:

cumin-Rubbed Lamb chops With Grilled Eggplant, Tomato and Mint Salad

THE cHALLENGE:

Finding a wine that can handle gamy-sweet lamb and earthy eggplant might not be so hard, but now theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve gone and added heat from cayenne and acidity from tomatoes.

THE EXPERTS:

David Holstrom, president and owner, Guy du Vin, wine consultant and merchant, guyduvin.com John Kennedy, owner, Great Wine Buys, greatwinebuys.com Leslie Palmer, chef and co-owner, Thirst Wine Bar & Bistro, thirstbistro.com

Extraordinary Wine, Sunshine & Views Columbia Gorge Labor Day Weekend Wine Tastings September 3-6

THE REcIPE:

cumin-Rubbed Lamb chops With Grilled Eggplant, Tomato and Mint Salad SERVES 4

Look for firm, taut-skinned eggplant that feel heavy for their size. For the finest garlic purée, try grating it on a Microplane grater. Instead of cayenne, feel free to substitute Aleppo pepper or Controne pepper, an Italian import available at Pastaworks. 2 medium Italian eggplant, peeled and cut crosswise into ½-inch thick slices Kosher salt Extra-virgin olive oil 1½ teaspoons ground cumin (preferably freshly ground)

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8 rib or loin-cut lamb chops (at least 1 inch thick)

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1 garlic clove, minced to paste (or puréed on Microplane grater)

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2 tablespoons lemon juice

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1½ teaspoons ground black pepper (preferably freshly ground)

Large pinch cayenne pepper Pinch sugar 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup chopped fresh mint ½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

½ pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved if large Sprinkle eggplant liberally with salt and spread out in single layer on towel-lined baking sheet. After 30 minutes, blot eggplant dry and brush each side liberally with olive oil; set aside. Meanwhile, combine cumin, pepper and 2 teaspoons kosher salt in small bowl. Blend well, then coat chops in spices. Allow to sit at room temperature at least 30 minutes. Ignite 6 quarts of charcoal in chimney starter and heat until coals are covered with layer of fine gray ash, about 15 minutes. Cover ½ grill bottom with charcoal, cover with grill grate, and allow to heat for 5 minutes. Scrape grate clean. Grill eggplant until browned, 2-4 minutes. Flip and cook second side until lightly browned and eggplant is soft, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer to plate. Grill chops over hot coals until well-browned and crusted, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip and cook second side until browned and meat is just rare, 3 to 4 minutes longer (if flare-ups occur, use tongs to pull chops to cool side of grill until fire subsides). Transfer to plate and tent with foil to keep warm. Allow to rest at least 10 minutes before serving. While meat rests, whisk together garlic, lemon juice, cayenne, sugar, pinch salt, and 6 tablespoons olive oil until emulsified. Adjust seasoning to taste and stir in herbs. Cut eggplant into ½-inch-wide strips and toss with dressing. Fold in tomatoes. Divide salad between 4 plates, top with chops (drizzling any exuded juices over salad), and serve.

winery & art gallery

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one dish, three wines cont. 2006 Loredan Gasparini Venegazzu Veneto Rosso della Casa ($20) In 1994, David Holstrom first stumbled across (and quickly consumed) a stash of the 1985 vintage of capo di Stato, an exquisite Bordeaux blend from the historic Veneto producer Loredan Gasparini. He’s been a diehard fan ever since, and considers the winery’s lower-priced Rosso della casa, consisting of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and malbec, to be the best valuepriced cabernet blend on the planet. “I think every domestic producer of cab blends should be forced to drink a bottle of this to find out what’s possible,” Holstrom says. “They don’t have to be alcoholic; they don’t have to be overextracted.” Instead, the Gasparini is silky, earthy and herbaceous, with notes of red berries and iron (characteristic of its vineyard’s soil). Any woody notes from 18 months of barrel-aging have mellowed after the past four years, leaving a well-balanced wine that will stand up to lamb and spices but won’t aim to take center stage. Imagine that from a cabernet.

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2003 Domaine Courbis St. Joseph Rouge ($23.50) When he saw our recipe, John Kennedy immediately thought of the northern Rhône Valley, where grilled eggplant and lamb kebabs are part of the local diet. He chose the courbis because the 2003, a sweet, ripe vintage, is available now, aged to perfection. “Let’s face it: If you can get an older vintage of a northern Rhône, you should go for it,” he advises. (If you can’t find the 2003, look for the more tannic, fiery 2005 from this producer; or, says Kennedy, ask your wine merchant for a similarly aged Rhône red.) This gem, from a family estate dating to the 16th century, is 100 percent syrah. It’s bright and fruity because of an aging regime that combines steel tanks and barrels, with “a smoky black raspberry, blackberry component to it that would pair well with the grill.” Notes of black pepper and herbes de Provence play off the savory spices and bright green flavors in our recipe, says Kennedy. Best of all, this pick will impress your friends: “All the wine geeks love northern Rhône syrah.” 2009 Efesté “Feral” Columbia Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($19) Forget everything you know about New World sauvignon blanc, because Woodinville, Wash.based Efesté takes an old World, Loire Valleystyle approach to this varietal: For example, aging takes place in neutral oak barrels, for a supple texture. Leslie Palmer decided to avoid a red — “the obvious choice” — in favor of a white with the acidity to cut through the mouth-coating quality of eggplant and the lingering heaviness of lamb; citrus, mineral and grass notes complement the lemon and herbs in our recipe. Palmer also loves that her pick is uplifting and summery, a final dose of sunshine in the glass before fall arrives. Named “Feral” after the wild yeast used to ferment it, this nuanced beauty, sourced from the relatively high-elevation Evergreen Vineyard, is a testament to winemaker Brennon Leighton’s devotion to sauvignon blanc: “It’s refreshing to find a winemaker who is this into whites, especially in this area of the world,” says Palmer. £

WHERE To BUy: 2006 Loredan Gasparini Venegazzu Veneto Rosso della Casa ($20) city Market guyduvin.com Liner & Elsen Market of choice Burlingame and West Linn Pastaworks Hawthorne 2003 Domaine Courbis St. Joseph Rouge ($23.50) Garrison’s Fine Wines Great Wine Buys Fred Meyer Hollywood West 2009 Efesté “Feral” Columbia Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($19) Fred Meyer Northwest Best Burlingame Fred Meyer QFc Vancouver Vinopolis

good cheese [ Dry Monterey Jack, Vella Cheese Co., Sonoma, Calif. ] Cheese: Vella Dry Monterey Jack Milk: Cow, from Mertens Dairy in Sonoma Age And look: Eight-pound wheels; the most widely available is aged seven to 10 months; also comes aged two years (Special Select Dry Jack) and four years or more (Golden Bear Dry Jack)

FlAvor: Dry but snappy; hints of caramel, a bit of sweetness

drink with: Medium-bodied reds such as zinfandel or merlot and lightly hopped beers such as pale or brown ales why we hAve wArM Feelings For this Cheese (besides the fact that it’s delicious): Tom Vella, who founded Vella Cheese Co. in 1931, also started Rogue Creamery in southern Oregon

U.S. cheesemakers make hundreds of styles of cheese. Many — those ubiquitous cheddars, fetas, fromage blancs and camemberts — replicate cheeses you’d be likely to find on a trip to Europe. These cheeses have evolved into foundational styles that we consumers are familiar with and love to eat. Less common are American originals, cheeses that were created in the United States. Monterey Jack cheese is one of these rare birds. It’s said to have been originally developed by missionaries in the former Spanish territories (now Mexico and California) during the 19th century. Although many of the facts have been lost to history, it seems that Dry Jack evolved from Monterey Jack as a distinct style during World War I. During that time, supplies of European cheeses, especially Parmigiano-Reggiano and pecorino Romano from Italy, were cut off. As one story goes, a Monterey, Calif., wholesaler by the name of David Jack had a supply of surplus cheese he’d been keeping in storage during this period. Seizing the opportunity presented by the trade embargo, he tried selling his firmer-textured, aged product as a substitute for the absent Italian grating cheeses. And thus was Dry Jack born as a distinct style of its own. Dry Jack is still made by several California cheesemakers, but I think the version made by Vella Cheese Co. is superior. Vella Dry Jack comes in 8-pound wheels that are rubbed with a mixture of oil, pepper and unsweetened cocoa, giving the cheese its signature brown rind; the rub serves as a protective layer and does not have a great effect on the flavor of the underlying cheese. This well-aged hard cheese is something of a contrast to the soft, supple Monterey Jack you’re used to, but consider its consumption a delectable study in U.S. history.

By TAMI PARR / PhOTOGRAPh By TORSTEn kJELLSTRAnD

FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER PARTY [ Davis family surf and turf rolls with the seasons ] By PIPER DAVIS / Photography by SuSAn SEuBERT

am not a fundamentalist locavore. I depend on a strong cup of black coffee each morning, use olive oil abundantly in my cooking, and when I’m tired of hearty greens and root vegetables in the dead of winter I buy a head of California-grown butter lettuce. However, I do believe that eating locally grown foods in season is good for our regional economy, helps protect the environment and, most importantly, is the key to making the besttasting food. So when it comes to planning a menu for a dinner party, I look to the vegetables from my CSA share, the meat in my freezer and the basics in my pantry for inspiration. Maintaining a well-stocked larder (and freezer) and creating meals from what you have on hand requires a bit of ingenuity and flexibility, but it eliminates costly and timeconsuming trips to the store and offers that sense of satisfaction gained by being practical and thrifty. We eat well year-round in Portland, but summer provides the especially joyful challenge of keeping up with all the yummy food — growing it, buying it and using it. In the height of the season, when summer vegetables are abundant, the menu pretty much writes itself. I don’t plan a meal until I pick up my CSA midweek. A typical midsummer share might include any or all of the following: Japanese eggplant, zucchini, summer squash, basil, leeks, heirloom tomatoes, sweet onions, cucumbers and cherry tomatoes. Feeding more than a couple of extra mouths takes more time. For a big summer meal like this I’ll transform the vegetables into side dishes that can be made ahead and will taste great with meat cooked on the barbecue.

Contributions from friends Whenever a guest asks what they can bring to dinner at my house, I suggest something to drink. My friends are good eaters who like their beverages and can be trusted to bring an appropriate accompaniment. There’s usually a selection of good beer, bubbly wine and bubbly water, red wine and maybe a white or pink wine or two. And some sort of whiskey … and the makings for gin and tonics, of course.

The Menu Laura’s Gravlax on Rye Toasts Summer Ratatouille With Seasoned Bread Crumbs Grilled Butterflied Leg of Lamb Slow-Grilled Butterflied Sockeye Salmon Piper’s Tarte Tatin

D esserts D

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omfortable elegance in the heart of Willamette Valley Wine Country.

oin us for a culinary experience created with the Northwest diner in mind.

Reservations 503.779.1660 291 Liberty St. SE Salem, OR 97301 www.bentleysgrill.com

FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER PARTY coNT.

Laura’s Gravlax on Rye Toasts

Summer Ratatouille With Seasoned Bread Crumbs

Because I love to cook, I rarely ask my guests to bring more than a bottle of wine. But I’m no fool! When one of the best cooks I know, Laura Ohm, offers to bring her home-cured gravlax made from fresh sockeye salmon, I say yes.

Classic ratatouille is made with sweet red bell peppers, but in Oregon, the eggplant, zucchini and summer squash beat the peppers out of the field, so I skip them early in the season. If you have them around, by all means add them to the mélange!

Laura riffed on the recipe from Chez Panisse Café Cookbook and serves her gravlax on little Grand Central rye toasts with capers and crème fraîche. Laura’s advice is to maintain a consistent ratio of salt to sugar and any flavorings that sound good. She kept it simple this time, but juniper, fresh chervil, lovage or clove would all make nice additions. 2-pound fillet of sockeye salmon with skin on ⁄3 cup kosher salt

⁄3 cup sugar

1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon ground allspice 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley Thin rye toasts Crème fraîche Capers Pull pin-bones out of salmon side with needle-nose pliers. Combine salt, sugar, black pepper and allspice in a small bowl and rub over both sides of the fillet. Put the fish skin-side down and sprinkle the chopped parsley over the flesh side. Wrap the salmon in cheesecloth and put it in a rimmed dish; refrigerate for 36 hours. To serve, unwrap salmon, scrape off any unabsorbed seasoning, and slice as thin as possible with a sharp knife. Drape some salmon on a toast, dot with crème fraîche and top with some capers.

I like to sauté each ingredient separately when I make ratatouille, and then combine the vegetables in a gratin dish to be baked together with some bread crumbs on top. I find this method keeps the vegetables from breaking down into a complete mush. I like to use Japanese eggplant (the skinny ones) because they don’t require pre-salting. If you have a globe eggplant, salt it liberally after slicing and allow it to drain in a colander for about 20 minutes; blot dry before cooking. Please don’t be frustrated by the lack of specificity in this recipe. The spirit of the dish is to let whatever ingredients are at their peak shine. This dish does well sitting in the fridge for up to three days before you bake it, although I would suggest holding off on the bread crumbs until right before you bake it. ServeS 6-8 aS a main courSe, 10-12 aS a Side diSh

2 to 3 Japanese eggplant About ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 to 3 (about a pound) yellow onions A couple of garlic cloves 3 to 4 small zucchini 3 to 4 small summer squash 2 red bell peppers, cored and seeded 2 large tomatoes, cored Basil Dried chile flakes ½ cup seasoned bread crumbs 2 tablespoons melted butter

Slice the eggplant into long slabs about ¼-inch thick. Heat ¼ cup of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed sauté pan. Add eggplant in one layer with some space between; if there isn’t room for all your eggplant, brown it in batches. Sprinkle salt and pepper on the eggplant and flip when slices are a nice caramel brown. While the eggplant is browning, dice onions, mince garlic, slice zucchini and summer squash into coins, cut peppers into slices and cut tomatoes into chunks. When the eggplant is soft all the way through, remove it from the pan and layer into an ovenproof casserole or baking dish. Continue to sauté each vegetable by itself, adding the cooked vegetable to the dish with the eggplant. You can layer each vegetable individually or mix it all up. Slice the fresh basil into thin ribbons and toss with vegetables; taste for salt and pepper and add chile flakes if you like a little heat. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Toss the bread crumbs with the butter and sprinkle over the vegetables. Bake uncovered for 35 to 40 minutes until juices bubble and bread crumbs brown. Let the ratatouille rest for at least 10 minutes before serving.

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FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER PARTY coNT.

For a family of agnostics, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ironic that our work is in biblical trades â&#x20AC;&#x201D; we are carpenters, shepherds, fishermen, bakers and teachers. Born and raised in the Pacific northwest, my three siblings and I have all done stints in the fishing industry and love to eat good salmon. My family also has been in the commercial sheep business, and we continue to raise a few lambs each year â&#x20AC;&#x153;for the freezer,â&#x20AC;? as my mom likes to say. Butterflied leg of lamb and barbecued salmon is the Davis familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s version of surf and turf. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the meal you see at big family gatherings, weddings and summertime birthdays. Barbecuing meat and fish may seem ambitious; I like to fast-smoke â&#x20AC;&#x201D; or slowly barbecue â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the salmon and serve it at room temperature. After the salmon is finished, I add more fuel to get the grill ready for the leg of lamb, which means that cooking the lamb is about the only thing I have to do once my guests arrive. I kind of like having a reason to flit about and let people settle into their own conversations. I also like it when someone joins me at the grill for a private chat.

Grilled Butterflied Leg of Lamb I always try to season my meat several days before cooking. The bigger the piece of meat, the longer I like it to sit (seasoned with at least salt) before cooking. In the Zuni CafĂŠ Cookbook, Judy Rodgers elegantly describes why salting early in the cooking process is a good idea. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re interested, I recommend reading her â&#x20AC;&#x201D; or you can take my word for it. Rubbing in a teaspoon of kosher salt for every pound of meat a day or two before you cook it will result in flavorful, tender and juicy meat. For leg of lamb, I also add rosemary, garlic and black pepper to the mix. ServeS 10-12 people

1 4- to 6-pound leg of lamb 2 tablespoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage 3 large cloves garlic 2 to 3 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

Bone the lamb, or try to: If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re buying the leg of lamb from a butcher or grocery store, have them butterfly it for you, but if you buy a whole animal or buy from a farmers market, most likely your leg of lamb will come bone-in and frozen. While it takes a bit more planning and a few extra steps, I have to say buying local lamb pays off in taste. Removing the bone from a leg of lamb is a great beginnerbutcher project. Just make sure you have a good sharp boning knife and your good sense intact. I start by looking at the leg, analyzing where the bone and muscle groups meet, and then just cut the meat off the bone. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easier than it sounds. I find leg of lamb wants to come off in two distinct muscle groups; when I do a â&#x20AC;&#x153;good job,â&#x20AC;? I keep it all together, but having a couple of smaller pieces can actually be easier to manage on the grill. Once you have the bone out, try to even the thickness of the meat by cutting slashes in the thickest parts, so that the meat will essentially unfold, creating more surface area for grilling and inroads for seasoning. Season the meat: Two or three days before your big dinner, season the meat. use a mortar and pestle, sharp knife or food processor to make a coarse paste out of the salt, rosemary, sage, garlic and black pepper. Rub the mixture all over the meat, wrap the meat in plastic and leave it on a sheet pan in the fridge. Grill the lamb: I like grilling over mesquite hardwood charcoal at medium heat, which I calculate by being able to hold my hand directly over the grill and count to five. The lamb should take 10 to 15 minutes a side, but I always use a meat thermometer. Pull the lamb from the heat when it has an internal temperature of 130 to 135 degrees, cover it with foil and let it rest for at least 15 minutes before slicing it against the grain.

Piper’s Tarte Tatin This French upside-down pie has become my signature dessert. Depending on the season, I’ll use either apricots or apples. Apricots were awesome when we shot the photos for this story, but I think apples will be best when the issue comes out, so I’ve written the recipe for apples.

Slow-Grilled Butterflied Sockeye Salmon My brother Sam is an avid fisherman who knows how to cook a whole fish better than anyone I know. He showed me this great technique, which I think is perfect for midsize fish. When you cook the meat on the bone, it is more succulent. 1 2- to 3-pound whole sockeye salmon 2 to 3 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon brown sugar 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil Butterfly the fish: With a cleaned fish you simply cut down one side of the backbone with a heavy sharp knife. Starting at the head end with the fish slightly on its back, cut through the rib bones next to the spine, proceeding to the tail end of the fish. Leave the skin on to hold the whole thing together more easily. now season it: Combine salt and sugar in a bowl and rub over the flesh side of the fish. Let it sit for at least one hour but up to three or four.

I’m often asked what kind of apple makes the best tarte Tatin, to which I always answer “The one with the best flavor, size and texture at the time.” In the late summer and beginning of fall, this might mean an early variety such as Gravenstein. Later in the season, there are oodles of good choices — small, firm and at the peak of their season. I am partial to Cameos, Honeycrisp and, during the winter months, Pink Lady apples.

makeS one 10-inch tarte

2 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup packed light brown sugar ½ cup granulated sugar ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon vanilla 2 to 3 pounds (4 to 6) tart, firm apples ½ pound prepared puff pastry (if using frozen, be sure it’s thoroughly thawed)

Soi

means local street in Thai, and these streets are often filled with many food vendors and small eateries which offer the best of Thai cuisines…

Heavy whipping cream or vanilla ice cream

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Prepare the caramel: Melt butter in a 10-inch cast iron or enameled skillet over medium heat (I use a Le Creuset enameled brasier, also called a wide French oven). Add brown and granulated sugar, and stir a bit to mix. When sugar begins to melt and bubble, remove the pan from the heat and add cinnamon and vanilla. Don’t worry if caramel begins to separate; it will come back together in the oven. Prepare the apples: Set one apple aside. Peel and halve remaining apples or, if they’re unusually large, quarter them. Place apples in caramel at the bottom of the skillet, rounded side down, packing as tightly as possible and filling in any gaps with apple chunks. Peel and thinly slice reserved apple. Shingle slices to create a single layer covering larger apple pieces underneath. This will help fill in apple gaps that occur during the baking process.

Our goal is to share with you some of the beloved street foods of Thailand, with a modern twist. We enjoyed these dishes while we were growing up and hope you will enjoy them as well…

Roll the pastry: unroll the sheet of puff pastry and cut a circle from dough that measures 12 to 13 inches in diameter. Cover the apples with pastry, tucking edges down inside the pan. If you don’t plan to bake it immediately, refrigerate the tarte Tatin for up to 3 hours, or freeze it.

Grill and serve the fish: Heat the grill to low. Rub a generous coating of olive oil on the skin side of the fish and grill skin side down. You know the fish is cooked as soon as you see a small amount of the white protein albumen appear through the meat.

Bake the tarte: Bake tarte for 20 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 degrees. Continue to bake 30 to 40 more minutes. The crust should be a deep, rich brown. Let it sit for about 5 minutes, but don’t wait much longer than 10 minutes to turn the tarte out because the caramel will set up and harden, causing everything but the crust to stick stubbornly to the pan.

When the fish is cooked, pull the bones out … the perfect fillet job. Serve immediately or let sit and serve at room temperature.

For serving, use a round platter somewhat larger than the pan. Place it on top of the pan and in one swift, deliberate movement, invert the tarte so that the crust is sitting on the platter and the beautifully caramelized apples are on top. Be extremely careful as you attempt this maneuver; the caramel is hot, and a sugar burn is the worst kind. Serve with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream lightly flavored with vanilla. £

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let it brine Picklers turn Portland into a fermentation destination Katie and Jesse HancocK were looking for the perfect

place to launch their pickle business. Living in Sandpoint, Idaho, where produce at the local Walmart was hardly inspirational, they realized they had to pack up and move. The question was, where? They embarked on some pickle tourism, traveling from one coast of the country to the other. They browsed through Manhattan’s Union Square Greenmarket and sampled the offerings of popular new pickle concerns (Rick’s Picks, Wheelhouse, Brooklyn Brine), part of the “pickle renaissance” of Brooklyn. In contrast to the bustling Brooklyn scene, the Pacific Northwest commercial pickling landscape was nearly bare. Longtime Portland pickle companies Steinfeld’s and Mrs. Neusihin’s had long since been sold to a Wisconsin company. And, although the brands still lived on, the cukes in those familiar jars came not from the Willamette Valley but from fields as far away as India. Visiting Portland, the Hancocks were overwhelmed by the quantity and variety of local veggies. They saw that the Willamette Valley was just crying out to be pickled — and their choice for their business location was a no-brainer. By SUSAN HAUSeR Photography by RANdy L. RASMUSSeN

Jesse and Katie Hancock scoured the country to find the right place to start their pickling business. Portland was the winner, with its access to fabulous fresh produce â&#x20AC;&#x201D; which can now be found, bathed in spiced vinegar, in jars of Unbound Picklingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wares, sold at farmers markets and in local stores.

“People’s expectation of a pickle over the years had really dropped … now there’s a lot of really good stuff out there.” — david Barber “Portland was the logical choice,” says Jesse Hancock, “because of the produce.” In August 2009, after three years of research and recipe testing, the Hancocks introduced their Unbound Pickling wares at Portland farmers markets and grocery stores. Their inventory includes about half a dozen varieties of pickled vegetables, including their pièce de résistance, the bacon pickle. They were the first local company in years to offer commercially canned pickled produce from local fields. But were they the only picklers in town? Hardly.

in Portland, where a dIy sensibility and a passion for all that’s good and local intersect in many wondrous ways, a widespread passion for pickling had taken over the town. The passion was expressed more through individual kitchen craft than business enterprise, however. That couldn’t have been more obvious than at the first Fermentation Festival in August 2009, which bubbled onto the scene around the same time that Unbound Pickling’s first jars started rolling off the production line. The festival was the brainchild of pickle maven david Barber. Along with his wife, Barbara, he reigns over what he calls “the Kingdom of Brine,” curing and selling kosher pickles to restaurants, food carts and grocers under the label Picklopolis. The Barbers also own Three Square Grill in Hillsdale, where david is chef. Several fellow fermenters helped Barber organize the first festival. One of them was writer and kraut fanatic George Winborn, who claims membership in a group called the Crock Cooperative. during the growing season, they meet often to create communal batches of hot vinegar brine pickles and sauerkraut that’s fermented in the salted cabbage’s own liquid. “We were expecting 50 to 75 people,” Winborn says of the first Fermentation Festival, “but we got 500.” even Winborn, who would seem to have his finger on the pulse of Portland pickling, was blown away by the sheer number of enthusiasts stuffed into the ecotrust conference center like cabbage in a crock. Part of the draw was the appearance of Sandor ellix Katz, a Tennessee-based fermentation guru and author of “Wild Fermentation.” But even his exalted presence couldn’t fully account for the immense sour-seeking crowd. The fact of the matter is that Portland pickles. Chefs do it, grandmas do it, even college students with secondhand crocks do it. They’re using family recipes or their own creations, old-country classics or ancient methods from Asia. Whatever the source, a pickle on the side — or even a pickle platter — is now a given in most Portland restaurants. Pickling is a method of food preservation that dates back to when recipes, if they existed, were etched in cuneiform. Then and now, it’s a way to extend the harvest, to be able to enjoy crisp and tasty produce long after the growing season, as well as to keep proteins, such as meat, fish and eggs, from spoiling. The truly timetested method is fermentation, whereby fresh food is immersed for weeks or months in a salty brine. Vinegar pickles are known to have been introduced by Romans wherever the empire extended.

Pickling has been a passion for david Barber, chef/owner of three square Grill in Hillsdale and the reigning monarch in what he calls “the Kingdom of Brine.” Barber’s pickles include naturally fermented garlic dill pickles as well as vinegar-brined treats such as orange and fennel flavored organic beets.

“When we opened, Ben said, ‘I have a ton of pickles. … Let’s do a pickle plate.’ ” — Jason French As the ancients knew, and every home cook should heed, fundamental recipes should not be altered. Precise ratios exist for a reason: food safety. Never put out a welcome mat for botulism by being lax. Check fermented foods often for signs of mold or spoilage. And follow established guidelines for canning.

GettinG tiPs from experienced picklers is a good idea, too. ethan Powell and Tobias Hogan, owners of eaT: An Oyster Bar, fill the bill for that. Both have been pickling and canning since their boyhoods in Arkansas and eugene, respectively. Powell even had his own child-sized garden, where he grew okra, peppers and tomatoes. “I’d get kinda made fun of as a kid,” he says. The fruits of their pickling labor are displayed in an appetizing still-life spread on a wide shelf above the kitchen’s order window. Multiple canning jars, containing a plethora of produce, are lined up in neat rows. every Sunday morning, a number of those jars are opened and their contents spilled into containers for the Sunday brunch Blood Mary bar. While mixing their own brunch cocktails, customers can select from pickled okra, pearl onions, carrots, tomatoes, cauliflower, asparagus, chiles, garlic, celery, green beans and more. Powell and Hogan use a hot vinegar brine, adding their own tried-and-true spice and flavoring combinations. “We pickle pretty much anything we can get our hands on,” Hogan says. Their restaurant neighbor a few blocks east, Ned Ludd, has also offered the fruits and veggies of the owners’ pickling skills, since opening day in January 2009. “When we opened, Ben said, ‘I have a ton of pickles,’ ” recalled co-owner Jason French. “ ‘Let’s do a pickle plate.’ ” That first pickle plate, festooned with a variety of pickles that Ben Meyer learned how to preserve back in Indiana at his grandmother’s knee, was a huge hit — until Meyer and French learned that it was a violation of state law. Serving preserved pickles requires completion of a food processing course, such as those at Oregon State University, and recipe approval. The two underwent a sudden conversion to quick pickling. Now they create flavorful vinegar brines and let the fruit and vegetables sit refrigerated in the brines for several days. They create a different brine for each type of produce, including strawberries, cherries, mushrooms, red onions, chard stems, celery and cucumbers. Their pickle plate, featuring five to seven varieties, is as big a hit as ever. An added bonus: Ned Ludd’s bartender artfully works the pickling liquids into some very tasty cocktails.

Pickling for home use and pickling for the public are two different things, a fact that Ben Meyer and Jason French quickly learned when they started serving pickles at ned ludd. a “quick pickle” — which uses vinegar mostly as a flavoring rather than as a true preservative, and which is kept in the fridge — is cool with the health department, but true preserved pickles need special training and approval.

at Foster BUrGer, it was co-founder daniel Mondok who made sure pickles were on the menu from day One. At his previous restaurant, Sel Gris, he had been known for pickling just about anything, including octopus. Lauren Gunderson took over the pickling from Mondok at Foster Burger, using his pickling principles as a foundation but branching out on her own to add new flavors and product.

“And now it’s this terrifying attempt not to waste all the hard work that the farmer did.” — John Taboada Gunderson, formerly the chef at the defunct Alberta Street Oyster Bar, uses a hot vinegar-salted water base to which she adds flavor combinations that complement the added vegetable or fruit. After the brine cools to room temperature, she refrigerates the container at least overnight before serving the pickles. For pickled pineapple, for example, she adds cardamom, cinnamon sticks, cloves and star anise to the brine. “We finish it off with just a little bit of soda water,” she says. “you have the acidic with the sweet of all those spices, and then you get a little bit of pop from the soda water.” Nearly every day at Foster Burger is a pickling day, says Gunderson. Pickles of all sorts are held in the refrigerator for just two weeks — if they last that long. The pickle plate, with an array of eight or more varieties, is a popular menu choice. Gabe Rosen, chef/owner of the Japanese pub, Biwa, is understandably into Japanese pickles. As he learned while working on his degree in Japanese studies from Portland State University, the Japanese love pickles of all sorts and eat them at every meal. Rosen uses a variety of mediums common in Japanese pickling, including a bed of rice bran (nuka) in which vegetables, such as daikon radishes, are buried for a day or two, then rinsed off and served as tasty pickles; fermented soybean paste (miso) and the liquid byproducts of tofu (okara) and sake (kasu). Rosen says he likes to pickle scallops and garlic in miso. He adds salt and beer to okara, in which he pickles vegetables. For pickling fish, he mixes kasu with vinegar. Rosen always has plenty of kimchi on hand, too. He ferments the spicy Korean-style sauerkraut by the 35-pound bucketload. 36

JoHn taBoada, chef at Navarre, has seen his pickling pref-

the food at navarre comes almost entirely from a local farm via a csa box, so chef John taboada has learned to preserve what he doesn’t immediately serve, including unlikely vegetables such as kale and broccoli raab.

erences change since he started pickling as a college student. Now it’s all about practicality. “Before, it was whimsy-based,” he says. “I’d go to the market or the grocery store and figure out what I wanted, buy it and make pickles.” But now he has a farmer who regularly delivers a great abundance of beautiful produce to the restaurant. “And now it’s this terrifying attempt not to waste all the hard work that the farmer did,” Taboada says. “Basically, everything my farmer has grown in her field, we have pickled, from green beans to things I never thought to pickle, like raab and kale, and every fruit she’s ever grown.” And no fancy flavors for this chef. He’ll take down a jar of pickles when the mood hits him to add pickles to a dish. Because he uses his pickles as ingredients, he prefers a clean slate. For a long time, Picklopolis’ david Barber felt that he was nearly alone in insisting on high-quality pickles. “People’s expectation of a pickle over the years had really dropped,” he says. Now he’s heartened to see that pickling is once again alive and well in Portland. “Now we have enough talented people and they have the same curiosity that I had about learning how to do it,” says the self-proclaimed King of Brine. “Now there’s a lot of really good stuff out there.”

reciPes

FindinG PicKle ParaPHernalia

Unbound Pickling’s French Quarter Pickled Beans MaKES onE 16-ounCE jar

3 garlic cloves ½ slice onion (¼ inch thick) 2 slices jalapeño pepper (¼ inch thick) 1 dill sprig 1 thyme sprig 1 whole dried chile pepper, such as chiles de arbol ½ teaspoon black peppercorns ½ teaspoon paprika ¼ teaspoon chili powder ⁄8 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ¼ teaspoon dill seed ¼ teaspoon mustard seed ⁄8 teaspoon cumin seed

⁄8 teaspoon dried basil

½ teaspoon crushed bay leaves 1 ⁄16 teaspoon nutmeg chunks (chopped from a whole nutmeg)

⁄8 teaspoon whole cloves

⁄8 teaspoon allspice berries

⁄16 teaspoon cinnamon chunks (crushed from a cinnamon stick) 1

½ pound green French beans (haricots verts, or tender string beans), trimmed to 4 inches in length 1 cup water 1 cup white vinegar (5% acidity) 2 teaspoons pickling salt

PHoToGraPH by MoToya naKaMura

Add to a clean 16-ounce (1 pint) glass jar the garlic, onion, jalapeño pepper, dill, thyme, chile pepper, peppercorns, paprika, chili powder, cumin, cayenne pepper, dill seed, mustard seed, cumin seed, basil, bay leaves, nutmeg, cloves, allspice and cinnamon. Pack the beans into the jar so they look neat, leaving enough room to remove one with ease. In a nonreactive pot, bring to a boil the water, vinegar and salt. Whisk the brine mixture to ensure that the salt dissolves and evenly distributes. Pour the brine mixture into the jar filled with beans, leaving ½ inch headspace. Wipe the top edge of the jar and put a clean lid on jar and tighten (do not over-tighten). Heat water in a canner until it reaches 212 degrees F. Place the filled jar into the

canner. ensure that water covers the jar by at least 1 inch. Boil the jar for 10 minutes in the boiling water bath. Remove the jar, gently transfer it to a rack and let it sit undisturbed until fully cooled. The lid should pop down as the vacuum is formed; test the lid to make sure the seal is good. Store the sealed jar in a cool, dry place for at least 3 to 4 weeks to allow flavors to develop before eating. (If your jar doesn’t seal, store in the refrigerator as it cures.) Refrigerate after opening. – Jesse and Katie Hancock, Unbound Pickling

Mike Snyder works from his Southeast Portland home filling orders for healthful diet equipment. His own creation, a 1-gallon glass jar for fermenting pickles, sauerkraut and kimchi, is the best-seller at $25. 503-771-3904 Mirador Community Store carries lots of pickleware, including the pickle lovers’ dream crock from Germany, by Harsch. Complete with weighting stones, the stoneware crocks range from 5 to 10 liters capacity, and cost from $139 to $159. 2106 S.E. Division St.; 503-231-5175 F.H. Steinbart Co. sells food-grade plastic buckets from 2 to 44 gallons that can double as crocks ($5.95 to $79.95), as well as several sizes of ceramic crocks. 234 S.E. 12th Ave.; 503232-8793 The Joy of Pickling, by Linda Ziedrich ($18.95). This is the 37 pickler’s bible, by a Scio author, with 250 recipes. Wild Fermentation, by Sandor Ellix Katz ($25). The Tennessee author tells how to make pickles, sauerkraut and other fermented foods.

Portland’s Pickling Past locals wHo recall the colorful old South

Portland neighborhood — before urban renewal made it into a concrete, vertical neighborhood — can perhaps tell stories of dipping for a pickle into a wooden, brine-filled barrel at the corner grocer’s. Jewish immigrants used their family recipes from Central and eastern europe to furnish neighbors with pucker-perfect kosher dills. There were dozens of small family pickle operations in the early 1900s, but one South Portland pickler achieved widespread commercial success, beginning in the 1930s. Although Sarah Neusihin died in 1970 and her company was sold about 10 years later, the unparalleled crunch and spiciness of Mrs. Neusihin’s pickles live on in the memories of people who bought them by the jar or enjoyed them at restaurants such as yaw’s Top Notch, Jolly Joan’s, Henry Thiele’s, Farrell’s Ice Cream Parlours and The Cheerful Tortoise. In the basement of her house at 420 S.W. College St. (now a restaurant, Alexandria Mediterranean Cuisine), Neusihin fermented tons of local cucumbers in a salted water brine, following the family recipe she brought from Russia in about 1920. Her son, Irving, a meSaraH nEuSiHin, chanical engineer, made THE orEGonian, 1966 all the processing equipment, and the whole family pitched in. “My brother says he thinks he still smells garlic on his fingers,” says Lisa Neusihin, 50, Sarah’s granddaughter, who peeled countless garlic cloves throughout her childhood. She keeps her grandmother’s precious recipe alive by making pickles for friends and family. Steinfeld’s Pickles bought Mrs. Neusihin’s, but both companies were sold in 1999 to dean Specialty Foods in Wisconsin. The recipes and the sourcing of the produce were changed. For example, vinegar was added to the pickles now bearing the Mrs. Neusihin label. “Vinegar!” exclaims Lisa Neusihin in horror. “My grandmother would be rolling over in her grave 150 times!” Steinfeld’s began in 1922 so Henry and Barbara Steinfeld would not have to waste their garden crop of cucumbers and cabbages. First they sold their extra produce at the old downtown Portland farmers market and door-to-door in their St. Johns neighborhood. Then the couple started making and selling pickles and sauerkraut. The company was owned and operated by three generations of Steinfelds before it was sold.

Quick-Brined Garlic dill Pickles MaKES 1 Pound PiCKLES

Start with:

Add:

1 pound medium pickling cucumbers

10 black peppercorns

Wash cucumbers well and trim 1⁄8 inch off the flower end. (The enzymes in the flower inhibit crisping during the curing process.) Put them in a heatproof container, jar or food-grade plastic tub.

10 fennel seeds

2 bay leaves 1 dill head or dry dill seed 1 pinch dry dill leaf ¼ cinnamon stick 1 clove 1 pinch nutmeg 1 pinch chile flakes

Let cool to room temperature. Put in refrigerator. dO NOT PUT THe LId ON UNTIL COLd. They will taste pickley in 1 day (especially if you first quarter the cukes lengthwise). They will be great in a week. Awesome in two weeks. They will keep for a long time, in the fridge. — David Barber, from the not-yet-published “Picklopolis, The Book”

4 sliced cloves of garlic Place in a 2-quart pot: 1½ cups cider vinegar 1½ cups water ¼ cup pickling or kosher salt Bring to a boil. Pour onto cucumber-spice mix to cover.

Pickled Roasted Peppers MaKES 3 PinTS

2¼ cups white wine vinegar or distilled white vinegar

Combine the vinegar, sugar and salt in a nonreactive saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat.

1 tablespoon sugar

Put a garlic clove into each of three pint Mason jars. Pack the peppers loosely in the jars. Pour the hot liquid over the peppers, leaving ½-inch headspace. Run a narrow spatula around the inside edge of each jar to release any bubbles and then add a little more of the liquid if needed. Close the jars with two-piece caps. Process the jars for 10 minutes in a boiling-water bath, or immerse them for 30 minutes in water heated to 180 to 185 degrees.

1 tablespoon pickling salt 3 garlic cloves 4 pounds pimiento, bell or Anaheim peppers (red, yellow, green or a mix of colors), roasted, peeled, cored and seeded.

Store the cooled jars in a cool, dry, dark place for at least three weeks before eating the peppers. After opening a jar, store it in the refrigerator. — Linda Ziedrich, “The Joy of Pickling”

Belly up to

bacon Got a craving? We’ve got the cure.

Everyone huddled around the slab of pork, doing their best to record in their minds the sure strokes of a master butcher making bacon. And not just any bacon. This would be French bacon, or ventreche. Dominique Chapolard was at the Portland Meat Collective to demonstrate how he butchers a hog in Gascony. His butchering skills are superlative. His English, not so much. So his friend Kate Hill stood nearby to translate his Gascon French. When Chapolard slipped his boning knife under the ribs of the hog he was working on, several in the audience gasped. I could have been one of them. He was extending the “bacon” cut from the belly all the way up to the loin, where the pork chops live. No one in the United States does this — it would destroy the ribs! Hill sensed our consternation. “The French don’t like ribs much. But they do love their bacon.” Bacon is the meat of a thousand faces, and Chapolard trimmed the edges of this giant catching a glimpse of a new one can be slab of belly-flank-bacony goodness and thrilling. Americans are the recognized world explained, with Hill’s help, that in France, champions of sweet-smoky slab bacon: Maple syrup, hickory smoke and hog belly comhe would skin the belly, massage it with sea bine to create one of the great gastronomical salt and lots of black pepper, roll it tightly delights of the world. and truss. It would then get a very light But our bacon is just one incarnation. smoking and be sold at the weekend market. Canadians make “bacon” from the loin, not I wasn’t the only one scribbling notes as the belly. The French have their ventreche, fast as I could. which is often unsmoked, as is Italian

By HANK SHAW Photographs by MOTOYA NAKAMURA

pancetta, which is rolled, and tesa, which is flat like our bacon. The Italians even make “bacon” from the jowl of the pig: This is guanciale (gwan-CHYAL-eh), and it can be sublime. Our heavily smoked bacons are

“When you make bacon there is such a specific flavor in your head, and if you don’t make that flavor you think you failed.” — camas Davis, Portland Meat collective

derived from the Northern European traditions, and the Germans and Poles have excellent versions, too. Most of the people attending the Portland Meat Collective’s event this past spring (at Robert Reynolds Chef Studio in Southeast Portland) were there to learn how to cut up a whole hog; the curing part was icing. But a quick survey of the dozen-or-so attendees showed that even the newbies had already tried their hand at makin’ bacon. Tessa LaLonde, Meat Collective who attended the www.pdxmeat.com event, grew up with standard supermarket Robert Reynolds bacon, which is heavChefs Studio ily brined and wetwww.thechefstudio.com cured, which is why you get all that water The Ethical Butcher bubbling up when you http://ethicalbutcher. fry it. Dry-cured bablogspot.com con is more concenThe Meadow trated, more flavorful. www.atthemeadow.com That’s what LaLonde’s family graduated to. Butcher & Packer And then she, like www.butcher-packer.com thousands of others, discovered a book Charcuterie: called “Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing,” Smoking and by Michael Ruhlman Curing,” by Michael and Brian Polcyn Ruhlman and Brian http://ruhlman.co m/ Polcyn. my-books She started with the book’s recipe for duck breast “prosciutto,” but soon graduated to pancetta — a gateway drug to more serious curing. Much like Chapolard’s version of ventreche,

pancetta is traditionally rubbed with salt, pepper and then in the Italian version, spices. It’s rolled tightly, too. But unlike Chapolard’s bacon, pancetta is then dry-cured, not smoked. LaLonde started with Ruhlman and Polcyn’s recipe, “but I didn’t use the herbs he did,” she said. “I said, ‘That’s too frou-frou.’ I wanted simple, clean flavor.” The result? Not really like store-bought bacon, “but I still enjoy it. Pork belly is magical.” Camas Davis, who runs the Portland Meat Collective, learned her butchering from Chapolard and Hill in France. A former vegetarian, bacon was what she first ate when she began to eat meat again. Davis says the French sensibilities toward cured pork belly are closer to LaLonde’s than most of America’s — the French think American bacon is too heavy with smoke and sweet. “You can’t taste the pork.” “Americans love bacon way more than the French, but the French utilize the belly more than the Americans,” Davis said. Davis and Levi Cole teach meat-curing classes at the collective, and they start with pancetta, not bacon. “I find that pancetta is a better learning experience for people,” she said. “When you make bacon there is such a specific flavor in your head, and if you don’t make that flavor you think you failed.” Is it really so hard to make bacon? Yes and no. Real bacon, which in my mind has no better exemplar than Nueske’s bacon in Wisconsin, has one aspect to it that is terribly

difficult to re-create at home: Real bacon is cold-smoked, a process that typically takes more than a day. I have a smoker, as do many other charcuterie aficionados, but keeping the temperature below 100 degrees for several days is a feat I can manage maybe once a year, in the middle of winter. So hot-smoking is our home fallback, and it is not the same. Yes, you can make excellent bacon by hot-smoking, but you’ll still not get that “specific flavor” Davis refers to. This is why pancetta, which can be made in the refrigerator, is where most of us start. When I started curing meat, my inspiration was a long-forgotten book by Californian Victoria Wise called “American Charcuterie.” Wise, one of the first chefs at Chez Panisse, wrote her book in 1987, and in its pages lurks a scarysounding recipe for “green bacon.” No, it’s not moldy — green means it’s unsmoked, like French petit salé. Wise’s recipe also does not use nitrates. Not that I am opposed to nitrates, as are many people; they add color and a degree of safety to cured meat products. But at the time I had no idea how to get my hands on curing salts, which are salts mixed with a preset percentage of nitrite or nitrate, which are the preservatives. Each is used in different charcuterie projects, and nitrate (Insta Cure No. 1 is what I use) is used in smoked meats. The Meadow on North Mississippi in Portland sells curing salt, and it is available online from places like Butcher & Packer (for where to buy, see left).

berlin Reed, bacon Evangelist Berlin Reed, who runs The Ethical Butcher in Portland, is bacon-obsessed. He started with bacon not long ago, after reading about it in an issue of Saveur magazine. He had been doing butchering, but not much curing. He got hooked on bacon and now makes about 65 flavors, though not all at once. “I did that first slab pretty much by the book to a T,” he said. “And the next time I did it, I tried 16 different flavors.” Reed says he’s never had a flavor combination ruin the bacon, which, he notes, is not only a forgiving cut of meat but one so good it would take a lot to make you want to toss it. “I’ve not had any flavor not work. It’s bacon, at the end of the day.” He says the most unusual flavors he’s used that turned out well were a teainfused bacon and one with horseradish and turmeric. The horseradish lost all its bite in the curing process, he says, and became a comforting warm flavor. Reed does not smoke his bacon all of the time, and prefers unsmoked. “It’s much, much meatier … porkier, if I can put it that way.” Reed is planning to host a “Bacon Camp” to teach children how to make bacon, and runs a “bacon of the month” club for adults (ethicalbutcher.blogspot.com). PhoTogRaPh aBovE By jaMiE fRanCiS

recipe: good bacon 44

If dealing with a 10-pound pork belly is daunting to you, you can get it in smaller chunks. I’ve not seen raw pork belly in smaller than 5-pound slabs, though.

Trim the belly into pieces that will fit in a large plastic bag or lidded container. Make sure the sides are squared off; use the trim in sausages or a burger mix.

1 large pork belly, about 10 pounds

Mix the dry ingredients well.

1 heaping cup of kosher salt 4 tablespoons of Insta Cure No. 1 (this is sodium nitrite, and if you feel strongly about it, you can leave it out — but the meat will not keep as long and will turn gray) ½ cup dark or light brown sugar ¼ cup freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup coarsely ground juniper berries (optional) ¼ cup crumbled sage (I use wild California white sage) 2 tablespoons dried thyme

Massage the salt mixture into the belly pieces well. Put them in their own individual plastic bags, or stack them in a plastic container — with any salt mixture that did not adhere to the meat. Put this in the refrigerator. Every day, turn the meat over. It will leach moisture and you don’t want just one side sitting in the brine. Do this for 5 to 7 days, depending on: a) how thick the belly is, and b) how cured you want your bacon. If you leave it for much longer than a week, you will be getting into salt pork territory, and while salt pork is great, you cannot eat it by itself without soaking it in fresh water first. Conversely, a five-day cure will be cleaner-tasting but may not penetrate to

the center of the belly — and the bacon will spoil faster. After you’ve cured the meat, you can smoke it, hang it or eat it. If you smoke it, run a hook through one corner of the belly and hang it in your smoker as far away from the heat source as possible. Get a very slow smoke going, and put ice cubes in the water tray. You want as cold a smoke as you can manage, even though you cannot really get a proper cold-smoke on a regular smoker. How long? Depends on the heat, but if you can keep the belly under 200 degrees you can go for up to four hours or so; I tend to like a light smoke, so I put my bacon in for only 90 minutes to 2 hours. At any rate, cool the bacon thoroughly on a wire rack before cutting it further into storage pieces. If you hang your bacon, make sure it is in a place that is no warmer than 60 degrees

To get started with making your own bacon, here are a few tips. (50 is better) and is pretty humid, about 60 to 75 percent humidity. I’ve never hung bacon or pancetta for longer than a month this way, but I suppose you could hang it forever. It’ll get drier and more concentrated in flavor the longer you hang it. It may also develop mold. Remember this general rule: White mold is your friend, white fuzzy mold is neutral, green mold needs to be wiped away immediately with a cloth soaked in vinegar, and black mold means you toss the bacon. To store your bacon, wrap it in butcher paper or vacuum seal it. If you are freezing your bacon, which I suspect you will once you’ve made 10 pounds of it, cut it into slabs you think you will eat within 10 days and freeze them. I highly recommend a vacuum sealer for this, but you can also wrap the bacon in plastic wrap, and then in either foil or freezer paper. Frozen, bacon lasts a year.

buy from a good producer. Many producers of high-quality pork sell at farmers markets, and if you order ahead they will be able to get you pork bellies. It doesn’t really matter what the breed is, but you want to buy from someone who cares about the animals enough to feed them right and let them live long enough to get fat — older pigs make better bacon. buy a whole belly. It’ll set you back some, but you can then trim the belly into large pieces and play around with different cures. Any trimmings are perfect in sausages, pâtés or just slow-roasted with some beans.

Have large, flat plastic containers you can stack in the fridge. This lets me get several cures going at once without smelling up the whole fridge; I love the smell of pork and garlic and spices, but not at breakfast.

Leave the rind on the belly if you’re curing a flat bacon, trim it off with a very sharp knife if you are rolling your belly. Leaving the rind on makes it easier to hang when you are smoking or dry-curing the meat.

Use kosher salt. It doesn’t have any caking agents in it, and it is the standard salt in many charcuterie books.

Finally, relax. This is fun. Read the recipe at left and follow the proportions of salt-to-meat religiously, but use the spices as a guideline. The salt you need to properly cure the bacon, but the flavorings are up to you: Remember that Berlin Reed, Portland’s Ethical Butcher, makes scores of different bacons, each following a different whim. Play with it and have fun!

how to brew coffee like a pro

Make a cup at home that tastes as though a barista made it

By nancy rommelman photograpy By Beth naKamUra

Toss up a nickel in Portland and nine times out of 10 it lands in a cup of coffee. Chances are, you did not make it yourself. This, because even though you buy whole beans, and grind them, and brew them in what you thought was a foolproof system, the coffee rarely tastes as good as it does at that cafe down the street. Which is vexing: How hard, really, is it to make a good cup of coffee? Not hard, provided you do a few things right, in order, each time. None require fancy equipment, barista training, or more money than you currently spend on coffee, unless you plan to tip yourself. Ready? Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s make coffee. note: Coffee pros work in grams, using 15 to 20 grams of coffee for every 8 ounces of water. If you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a scale, use two to three heaping tablespoons of unground coffee beans for every 8 ounces of water.

french press “French press is one of the easiest methods — and it’s a science,” says Ryan Cross, barista and wholesale manager for Ristretto Roasters in Northeast Portland. “It makes a coffee that’s thick and very rich, with a full mouth feel.” (Full disclosure: My husband, din Johnson, owns and roasts coffee for Ristretto Roasters — NR.) Cross uses a French press by BonJour, which makes a variety of styles and sizes (about $10 to $60).

WHaT you WILL Need: a 64-ounce French press a grinder 120 grams coffee beans Boiling water a timer that beeps Long-handled spoon

HoW To do IT:

1. Grind the coffee on the coarsest set-

ting. “until it sounds like rocks that are just becoming sand,” Cross says. “you want it to still be chunky.” Pour ground coffee into French press’s glass receptacle, and give it a stir.

2. “a timer is absolutely essential,”

says Cross, who sets a digital timer for four minutes. Heat water to between 195 and 205 degrees. Pour water over coffee grounds to saturate them, then halfway up the press. Start the timer.

3. allow coffee to sit for one minute. “The coffee will start blooming,” says Cross. after a minute, use the spoon to gently press coffee down two or three times, just to break the crust. do not stir. Carefully

pour in the remaining boiling water.

4. Set top on French press and depress

plunger to just below the water line, and then lift it up about a half-inch. “you’re creating a crema level, which is a pretty cool trick with French press,” says Cross, referring to the thin layer of foam on the top of espresso.

5. When the timer beeps, depress the

French press. It should push down with ease, Cross says. Pour out a dash of coffee. This will get rid of any coffee grounds that were trapped in the filter.

6. drink immediately. Makes about seven 8-ounce cups

drip “I use a fairly advanced home drip machine,” says Matt Milletto, owner of Water avenue Coffee Co. in the Central eastside Industrial district, of his Technivorm Moccamaster (about $300), which he calls the “pro-sumer drip machine of choice.” Three reasons: a maneuverable spray head that allows you to direct saturation; a valve on the filter cone that lets you control the flow of the brewed coffee; and a thermal carafe that keeps the coffee warm without reheating it. Whichever brewer you choose, try to avoid those with a glass carafe that sits directly on a heat-plate (the case on most inexpensive home brewers), resulting in coffee that continues to “cook,” turning it bitter and sludgy. “you never,” says Milletto, “want to reheat coffee after it’s been brewed.”

WHaT you WILL Need: a 1.25-liter drip brewer a grinder Size 4 coffee filter, paper or gold-cone 48

65 grams coffee beans Cold water HoW To do IT:

1. Fill upper reservoir with cold water. 2. Place filter inside cone. If using a paper cone, moisten it with hot water. Set cone to “closed.” 3. Grind beans for medium. Milletto uses a Baratza Vario (about $450), a conical burr grinder designed for home use. “The cutting material is ceramic, so it gives a precise grind, from French press to espresso,” Milletto says. 4. Turn on the brewer and allow coffee to drip. When cone is just about full, open it to “partial flow.” allow the brewed coffee to drip into the carafe for about 30 seconds, then open cone to “full flow.” allow coffee to finish dripping. 5. drink within 30 minutes. Makes about five 8-ounce cups

cold brew “essentially, a cold brewer is a glorified bucket with a hole in the bottom,” says Jamie erdman, manager of Thatcher’s Coffee in Vancouver. erdman recommends Toddy brand (about $35), which comes with its own glass pitcher. “The whole appeal of cold brew is that it’s very smooth. There’s no acid because there’s no heat involved, so the result is a creamy, velvety mouth feel.”

WHaT you WILL Need: one cold brewer a grinder 1 pound coffee, ground for flat-bottom drip, divided Nine cups cold water, divided Twelve hours to brew, plus several more to drip

HoW To do IT:

1. Saturate with water the cold brewer’s

reusable wool filter and plug up the hole in the bottom of the brewer.

2. Pour 1 cup cold water into brewer. Sprinkle on ½ pound of ground coffee

3. Slowly pour 4 cups of cold water over

coffee, using a circular motion and making sure to saturate the coffee. Sprinkle on remaining ½ pound of coffee, then slowly pour on 3 more cups water, making sure you are leaving no dry pockets of coffee, and finish with last cup of water. “you don’t want to stir it because this can clog the filter,” says erdman, who does press down on the coffee a few times with a rubber spatula, to make sure the

grounds are thoroughly saturated.

4. Cover top of cold-brewer with plastic

wrap, and let it rest, at room temperature, for 12 hours. “It’s going to bubble up a bit because the coffee you used is so fresh,” says erdman.

5. Pull the plug on the bottom of the coldbrewer and let it drain into a glass pitcher. This will take several hours. “We dilute it 2-to-1, water to concentrate, and use it for cold coffee drinks,” says erdman. Makes 64 ounces of concentrate, which will last up to 14 days refrigerated

pour over “Pour over makes a nice, clean cup of coffee that captures the nuances of the roast,” says coffee roaster Christopher Brady, owner of extracto in Northeast Portland. When Brady and his wife, Celeste (pictured here), opened their second extracto cafe, they decided to forgo automatic drip altogether and make each cup of drip to order, using Frieling Cilio porcelain filter holders (about $15 to $22, depending on size). “It might take four minutes, but customers factor this in,” says Celeste. “The smell of the fresh ground coffee, the theater of it dripping right in front of you — it really is coffee in its best form.”

W HaT you WILL Need: Pour-over cone Filter, paper or gold-cone a grinder 8 ounces water, plus more for wetting the paper filter 20 grams coffee beans Spoon

HoW To do IT:

1. Set up your cone so that it will drip into a carafe or cup. Insert the filter. “If you use paper, dribble it with a little hot water, which gets rid of any papery taste,” says Brady. discard any water that drips into carafe or cup. 2. Bring water to 205 degrees. “I get it to a boil, then take it off the heat for 12 to 15 seconds,” says Brady. His kettle of choice is the Hario Buono (about $50), which he likes for its “thin, precise, aggressive stream.” 3. Grind coffee for medium, and dump into the

filter. Pour over half the boiling water, and wait 30 seconds. “This pre-infusion really opens up the coffee,” says Brady. Brewed coffee will begin to drip at this point, but just a bit, as the coffee grounds mix with the water and puff slightly.

4. Pour over the rest of the water. Give coffee in the cone a stir with spoon, to make sure there are no dry pockets. allow the coffee to drip into cup. 5. drink immediately. Makes one 8-ounce cup

extra credit

a barista’s primer

Want to pour like a pro? at The American Barista & Coffee School (1028 S.E. Water Ave., Portland, 1-800-655-3955, www. coffeeschool.org), learn to pull shots like a barista, or actually become one.

January Wythe-Vawter (right), barista and trainer at the North Portland cafe Blend, knows the devil is in the details and offers the following tips:

Portland Roasting (503-236-7378; www. portlandroasting.com) offers customers free barista training, as well as classes in latte art and coffee fundamentals.

BuYInG BeAnS: “If there is no roast date on the bag, don’t buy it. I’m not talking about an expiration date, but a ‘roasted on’ date. There are so many good coffee roasters in Portland selling fresh-roasted coffee, there’s zero reason to buy old coffee. Commercially, we use coffee within a week. at home, you can push it to 14 days, but after that, it’s dead. don’t use it.”

Boot Coffee (415-380-1999; www.bootcampcoffee.com) gives advanced courses in cupping and roasting in San Francisco, and sourcing and processing at coffee farms in the Chiriqui province of Panama.

SToRInG BeAnS: “do not put coffee beans in the refrigerator or freezer; the cold is not going to keep them fresh and the humidity is going to make them spoil. Coffee likes a cool, dark, dry place; a pantry (but not one over the refrigerator or stove) is ideal. Put them in an airtight container, so you can seal off light and air. you can buy these at Fred Meyer or Target, something that will hold 12 ounces (which is how most microroasters sell their beans), with a seal. and keep the container clean; wash and dry it when you’re putting in new beans, because the oils from the coffee can eventually go rancid.”

GRInDInG BeAnS: “you absolutely cannot pre-grind coffee. and don’t grind it at the store. Most grocery stores do not change their

Ristretto Roasters (3808 N. Williams Ave., Portland, 503-288-8667; www. ristrettoroasters.com) has free coffee cuppings and coffee events, the first and last Sundays of the month.

burrs, so they’re dull. also, when you grind a lot of coffee on one grinder, there’s so much friction that you are creating heat and destroying the coffee. you’re basically re-roasting it. “Burr grinders are great, but they cost hundreds. a good alternative is to go to your local coffeehouse and have them grind you a few samples — coarse, medium, fine — and stick the samples in pastry (or plastic) bags. Then test grinding some beans with your Black & decker (or other brand) chopper blade grinder. you can find the coarseness that works for you.”

WATeR TeMPeRATuRe: “Most people make a fatal mistake, which is they brew with boiling water. you should brew with water that’s about 205 degrees. I have a crazy antique cast iron kettle; I can take it off the stove and hours later, the water is still boiling. But I’m impatient. Most people are first thing in the morning, but this can work in

your favor: when you hear the water just starting to rumble (in the kettle), pour it to make your coffee. If the kettle is steaming, the water is too hot.”

DRInkInG: “I have many customers who come in and say, ‘We ran out of milk, so I had to get coffee here.’ They’re drinking coffee with milk because they think they need to cut the acidity of the coffee; their coffee tastes like battery acid because it’s 6 months old and they bought it at Trader Joe’s. The problem is not that they’re out of milk, it’s that they have the wrong coffee. “one way to save money and hassle is to just use coffee and water. Go to a good cafe and buy some beans; see what you like. Coffee is such an affordable, accessible luxury. With a little extra care in the morning, your day is going to go a lot smoother.”

and you can cup coffee for free every day at noon and 2 p.m. at the Stumptown Annex (3352 S.E. Belmont St., Portland, 503-467-4123; www. stumptowncoffee.com). Need equipment? Check out Mr. Green Beans, DIY Coffee Roasting & More (3932 N. Mississippi Ave., 503-708-7763; www. diycoffeeroasting.com), where you can try out a variety of coffee-making methods and even roast your own beans before you buy. Want to live vicariously? Two of the coffee trade’s biggest publications are based here in Portland; Roast Magazine (www. roastmagazine.com) and Barista (www. baristamagazine.com), where you just might see a glamour shot of the guy/ gal who helps you wake up every morning. £

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mixmaster [ Cool, creamy, boozy ] Straw-clogging milkshakes and frothy root beer floats are our go-to beverages when summer temperatures creep too high. But these frosty favorites aren’t always what we crave when we’re looking for something more adult — OK, boozy — to quench our thirst on a scorching hot day. Fortunately, bartenders are shaking up the scene by incorporating booze and beer into creamy concoctions on their modern menus. We can now order grown-up versions of soda-fountain standbys, such as shakes and floats, that are far more sophisticated … even if they’re served with a straw. By AShley GArtlAnd PhOtOGrAPhy By AndreW BUrtOn

After dark Shake, at the Original

White russian Shaketail at Foster Burger

mixmaster cont. the real Beer Float

the modern milkshake A few local burger joints have put milkshake cocktails on their menus, but no one has

popularized them as quickly as the buzzed-about burger bar Foster Burger. At this hangout, diners can create a “shaketail” by adding a shot of well liquor (the cheaper brands of booze) to a shake of their choice. With more than 40 well liquors available, the pairing possibilities are infinite but not always favorable. Used properly though, the liquors can magnify flavors in a shake or add depth to an everyday recipe. Or they let the bartenders riff on classic cocktail combinations (consider a White russian shake that subs vanilla ice cream for the traditional cream) or re-create classic flavors from another genre entirely. Adam ried, the author of “thoroughly Modern Milkshakes,” is a master at using spirits to re-create classic flavors in milkshake form. In the realm of spirited shakes, he reinvents the Italian custard known as zabaglione in a vanilla shake enhanced by sweet marsala, and he

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Using beer in a float might seem a stretch, but regulars at Pix Patisserie and elephants delicatessen know otherwise; both businesses serve real beer floats that prove stouts and porters work as well with ice cream as root beer. “People are surprised by how well the ice cream plays off a dark beer like a porter or stout,” says elephants’ general manager nicholas doughty. “you get those cocoa notes out of porters and then the vanilla matches up with it to create that classic pairing of chocolate maltiness and vanilla.” At elephants, the staff held a beer float taste-off and determined that stouts or porters with a bit of body and muted hop characteristics performed best in the floats. “People liked rogue’s Mocha Porter a lot, but it overpowered the

ice cream — it was a little too big of a beer,” says doughty. “the deschutes Brewery Black Butte Porter we chose is amazingly mellow, and you don’t get that big hop bite to it that takes over the ice cream.” At Pix, general manager leb Borgerson pairs rogue’s subtly sweet, slightly bitter Chocolate Stout with the patisserie’s house-made mocha ice cream in their adult float. When making beer floats at home, method matters. For the best results, use small scoops of ice cream (they’ll break down quickly and easily in the glass), and always add the beer first and the ice cream second. “you can’t pour the beer over the ice cream or it foams over the top of the glass. It’s kind of like a volcano of beer,” says doughty.

uses a splash of brandy in a coffee shake whose flavors recall a caffè corretto. local milkshake mavens are similarly inspired: Foster Burger’s bartenders blend Bananas Foster shakes while bartenders at the Original mimic berry cobbler flavors in an After dark Shake

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starring raspberry vodka and seasonal berry ice cream. Flavored vodkas notwithstanding, bartenders generally avoid using clear spirits in shakes since neutral vodka falls flat flavorwise and spirits like gin are too herbaceous to pair with rich

ice cream. Instead, they blend in brown spirits like rum and liqueurs like Kahlúa to add deep, subtly sweet notes to creamy shakes. “the darker spirits like rums and bourbons naturally go with cream and creamy-based cocktails,” says the Original’s

bartender robby Cunningham. “In our experience, the rums and the darker liquors definitely shine through the heavy cream.” Before you begin making adult shakes at home, a word on ratios: it doesn’t take a whole snifter of booze to stand up to the ice cream. ried recommends determining the amount of alcohol you use based on how you want it to perform in the shake. When he merely wants a spirit or liqueur to underscore other flavors in the shake, he uses a few tablespoons of alcohol. But when he craves a shake that celebrates a spirit as a dominant flavor, he’ll use about ¼ cup of alcohol instead and reduce the milk called for in the shake recipe as needed. With the basics under your belt (see sidebar), all you have to do now is put down your cocktail shaker and pick up a scoop.

shake-making Basics the rules for making adult milkshakes and floats mirror the rules for making great-tasting nonalcoholic shakes and floats. here are a few tips to get the foundation right before you start incorporating booze or beer. Seek out a high-quality, full-fat ice cream. Foster Burger bartenders swear by the tillamook label, while doughty likes ruby Jewel’s vanilla bean ice cream. Use the milk you have on hand — unless it’s skim. Since you are only using a tiny bit of milk in a shake, ried found you can use whole, 2 percent and 1 percent milk without negatively affecting the quality, flavor or texture of the shake. Swap sorbet for syrups. If you’re going to flavor a shake with a chocolate or fruit syrup in addition to booze, ried urges you to use sorbet, not syrup, to give your shake an intense, concentrated flavor. “Sorbet is key, key, key,” he says. “Syrups always taste like the corn syrup that they are made from. For example, strawberry syrup tastes fake because it is fake, but strawberry sorbet tastes like strawberries.”

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hour five nights a week from 4-7 del inti is a Peruvian-inspired Northwest restaurant in the heart of the Alberta Arts neighborhood. We use the freshest of local ingredients with a Peruvian ﬂair. Enjoy pisco sours and ceviches by our ﬁrepit, or large parties on our newly remodeled covered patio. “South America meeting Northwest, as if it were always meant to be so.” - Portland Monthly Magazine

Celebrating 9 years on Alberta Street, Bella Faccia is one of P-town’s best loved pizzerias. Place your bet on our East Coast style slices with the perfect trifecta of crust, sauce & cheese. Daily happy hours, local micro brews, kick ass patio – what more do you want? Open everyday 11am-10pm

Wed-Sun Happy Hour 4-7 dinner 5-10 2315 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.288.8191 www.delinti.com

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Inside this neighborhood bakery is a visual playground of traditional french pasty and bread. Petite Provence - our experts in great food, friendly staff, and a cozy atmosphere. Café opens from 7am-9pm serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a full liquor bar. Join us for live music Thursday through Sunday. Don’t feel like dining out? Order your favorite artisan desserts, delicious food, or warm buttery goodness on the go.

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Wine Down East Vita Café Fill your belly with wholesome vegan and vegetarian comfort food. Open every day for breakfast, lunch & dinner. Using local & organic products as much as possible, the Vita has been serving hearty meals since 1999. Gluten free? No problem. Daily kid’s happy hour – kids eat for $1 every day from 5-7 pm. Breakfast 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat/Sun Lunch everyday from 11am-5pm Dinner everyday from 5pm-10pm 3023 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.335.8233 www.vita-cafe.com

Graduated from a simple wine bar located for years on NE 28th Ave. Wine Down East has evolved into a “Fusion Bistro” concept. We feature full wine and saké lists, comprehensive cocktail and infusion programs, and offer traditional sushi selections and less than traditional bistro fare. Daily Happy Hour is from open to seven. Additionally we offer an all day Happy Hour every Monday, & late night Happy Hour from ten to close on Fri. & Sat. While dining with us, we encourage you to reserve seats for one of our intimate dinner events such as our “Paired Spirit Dinners” or “Cooking Class” dinner demo. Hours: Sun-M 4:30-10:00 T-Tr 4:30-11:00 Fri-Sat 4:30-12:00 2236 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.719.6984 Winedownne@gmail.com

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Enjoy a wide selection of simple and gourmet Grilled Cheese sandwiches in a vintage school bus! Be classic with a traditional Grilled Cheese or be unique with the Cheesus burger! Tues-Thurs 11:30am-9:00pm Fri-Sat 11:30am-2:30am Sunday 11:30am-3:30pm Closed Mondays 1027 NE Alberta Street At the Corner of Alberta & 11th Portland, OR 97211 503.206.8959 www.grilledcheesegrill.com

Ciao Vito Outdoor Seating. Happy Hour all day Sunday! 4 until 8 Mon-Thurs. We offer simple and elegant food from a passionate kitchen. Farm direct organic and seasonal vegetables, ﬁsh and meats. Summer Salads, Heirloom Tomatoes on Flatbread, Sugo of Pork, Fresh Oregon Razor Clams and the best Italian Wine List in town at rock bottom pricing. Open Every Day 4-10 2203 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.282.5522 www. ciaovito.net

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mixmaster cont. elephants delicatessen’s real Beer Float

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Screaming Sky Gallery Art, collectible toys, and unique imports are the focus of Screaming Sky Gallery. Friendly staff and welcoming atmosphere invite everyone from the kid-at-heart to the serious collector to let loose and ﬁnd that unique item or gift. New exhibits every month and an always available inventory of collectible toys and products you just won’t ﬁnd anywhere else. 1416 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 Tue through Fri 1:30-7 Sat 11-7, Sun 11:30-5pm 503.730-3561

Living Room Realtors is a community-based real estate ﬁrm, committed to living and doing business with meaning. We support the community by hosting frequent workshops and art openings. Our ofﬁce is a large gallery space featuring a rotating variety of local artwork, and we invite everyone in to see our artwork as well as to talk real estate. 1422 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.317-4312 www.livingroomrealtors.com

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Fuel Cafe

Al Forno Ferruzza

Fuel Café opened in November 2004 founded on the principles of “Sustainability”From the retro-green interior to the sunny patio seating, Fuel provides a great place for vegans, nonvegans and those who just want to have a great meal while supporting small, local, organic businesses. Fuel features fresh made gourmet sandwiches (try the Italian Turkey Panino or the Grilled Vegan sandwiches!), house made soups & salads, delicious organic, fairly traded espresso and coffees, games, and the New York Times. There are many vegan, wheat and gluten free dessert options.

The Love for authentic fresh homemade goods has been handed down from the Ferruzza family from generation to generation. At the Family’s camp in the Adirondack mountains of N.Y., the Ferruzza family would spend their summers experimenting with culinary art in a wood ﬁred oven built by Papa Ferruzza. This is the inspiration behind Al Forno Ferruzza’s authentic Sicilian pizza that is baked at 800 degrees.

1452 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211-5062 503.335.3835 www.fuelcafe.biz

2738 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 503.253-6766 www.503alforno.com

2 scoops (about 3 ounces each) ruby Jewel vanilla bean ice cream Pour the porter into a pint glass. tilt the glass slightly to one side and gently slide the ice cream scoops down the side of the glass. Serve immediately. — Recipe from Nicholas Doughty

caffè corretto shake

Peach shake With Brandy and nutmeg

MAKeS ABOUt 3½ CUPS

¼ cup cold whole or low-fat milk

2 tablespoons brandy, cognac or sambuca 2 shots freshly pulled espresso, at room temperature

Open Sun-Thur: noon-10pm Fri, Sat & last Thurs: noon - 11pm

12 ounces Black Butte Porter

8 medium scoops (about 1 quart) coffee ice cream, softened until just melty at the edges Place the ingredients in a blender and pulse several times to begin breaking up the ice cream. With the blender motor off, use a flexible spatula to mash the mixture down onto the blender blades. Continue pulsing, stopping and mashing until the mixture is well-blended, thick and moves easily in the blender jar, roughly 30 to 90 seconds. Pour into a chilled glass or glasses, and serve at once. — Recipe from “Thoroughly Modern Milkshakes” by Adam Ried

⁄3 cup cognac or brandy

1½ tablespoons peach jam or preserves ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, plus extra for garnish, if desired 4 medium scoops (about 1 pint) peach ice cream, softened until just melty at the edges 4 medium scoops (about 1 pint) peach sorbet, softened until just melty at the edges Place the milk, cognac, jam, vanilla extract and nutmeg in a blender and blend to mix thoroughly, about 15 seconds. Add the ice cream and sorbet and pulse several times to begin breaking them up. With the blender motor off, use a flexible spatula to mash the mixture down onto the blender blades. Continue pulsing, stopping and mashing until the mixture is wellblended, thick and moves easily in the blender jar, roughly 30 to 90 seconds. Pour into a chilled glass or glasses, and serve at once. If desired, garnish with a dusting of freshly grated nutmeg. — Recipe from “Thoroughly Modern Milkshakes” by Adam Ried

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For reservations, call 503-736-9276 or browse dinner options online at ourhouseofportland.org

walkabout northeast alberta By grant Butler photography By faith cathcart

ifteen years ago, northeast alberta Street was in trouble. Most of its storefronts were boarded up, and police reports were as common as cloudy days. then tiny, independent art galleries began arriving, and people began associating the street with something other than urban blight. With names like our Dream, onda, Shades of color and guardino, the galleries celebrated lesser-known artists than those displayed in the posh pearl District, with some galleries devoted to showing work by minority artists. together, they started art on alberta, a monthly gallery walk held on the last thursday of every month, rain or shine. these days, almost all of albertaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s galleries have faded away, priced out of the market as rents have increased. of the pioneers, only guardino remains on the strip. last thursday, as art on alberta is now known, goes on, though it has become such an unruly mob scene that the city considered canceling it altogether earlier this year. and even though the neighborhood is still referred to as the alberta arts District, these days it might as well be called the alberta Vegan District, for its heavy concentration of vegan restaurants and businesses. Summer is a perfect time for exploring all the changes on a 15-block stretch of alberta, where you can see how artful food and homey businesses are the new norm. and you need to see it sometime other than last thursday to discover its intimate charms.

walkabout / northeast alberta cont.

right across the street, you’ll discover 3 Digs Inside & Out (1829-B N.E. Alberta St.; 503-460-3447; digs-pdx.com), a place for rethinking how your home and garden come together. there are unique, asian-themed ceramics that can add a touch of serenity to your dining room, succulent plants that can give patio pots year-round touches of green, and vintage-looking (but durable) garden furniture that can transform your backyard into a warm-weather living room.

NE ALBErtA st.

NE 23rD AVE.

NE 19tH AVE.

if you like a lighter approach to the first meal of the day, there are plenty of options three blocks east at 2 La Petite Provence (1824 N.E. Alberta St.; 503284-6564; provence-portland.com), a northeast offshoot of the venerable lake oswego french bakery and wholesale distributor of gourmet pastries. in a space that once housed the indianthemed restaurant Baraka, out went the samosas and curry, and in came eggs provençal, apple and apricot croissants, and apple-rhubarb tarts, which all pair nicely with cups of strong coffee. on the way out, grab a rustic baguette to go with your dinner at home.

NE 15tH AVE.

Begin your exploration by fueling up at 1 Helser’s on Alberta (1538 N.E. Alberta St.; 503281-1477; helsersonalberta.com), which gets a lot of business from diners unwilling to endure the hourslong wait for a table at nearby tin Shed garden cafe. here’s a secret: While helser’s doesn’t have the lovely outdoor setting, its breakfasts are better. crisp potato pancakes come doused with crème fraîche and applesauce, and there’s an a.m. take on pigs in blankets, with buttermilk pancakes wrapped around maple sausages. if eggs Benedict is your idea of morning bliss, there are tough decisions to make: the menu boasts three interpretations, including one with homemade smoked salmon. While pondering your options, place an order for helser’s signature german pancake for the entire table to snack on: the puffy pillows, often called Dutch Babies, have a hint of lemon zest that cuts through the sweetness.

if you hit alberta on Saturdays, you can pop into one of the street’s venerable and most-quirky spots: 5 Habromania (2303 N.E. Alberta St.; 503-223-0767; habromania.com). this eclectic shop features all manner of garden sculpture and birdbaths, so if you’ve been dying to make your tomato beds resemble Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus,” this is the place. the real finds, though, are inside, where you can add touches of whimsy to your kitchen or basement rumpus room with superhero cookie jars, vintage neon beer signs and all sorts of pop culture bric-a-brac. the business’s motto is, “for everything you ever needed but never knew,” which really is the essence of any hunt for antiques and collectibles.

NE 30tH AVE.

it’s time for a cake break, and alberta Street has plenty of bakeries to choose from. the best, hands down, is 4 Back to Eden Bakery Boutique (2217 N.E. Alberta St.; 503-477-5022; backtoedenbakery.com), which went from being a catering operation to a full-service bakery late last year. here’s the twist: everything on the menu here is vegan, proving that you can make great cakes and sweets without butter and eggs. co-owners garrett Jones and John Blomgren fill their bakery cases with incredible cheesecakes and cookies, but the real finds are the cakes, such as a delectable strawberry and hazelnut layer cake, a garden-fresh carrot cake with a glassy glaze of icing, and hummingbird cake, their vegan take on a Southern specialty, that’s loaded with pecans, bananas and pineapple. While here, you can feed your mind as well as your sweet tooth. the boutique portion of the store includes a variety of cookbooks, must-have kitchen gadgets that happen to be earth-friendly, and stationery to help you rediscover the art of letter-writing. come on, don’t you owe Mom something more than an e-mail every once in a while?

63 63

Moving farther east, you’ll pass some of the street’s bars and cocktail spots, which are subdued by day but bustling at night, plus several taquerias that have been here for decades. then you end up at 6 Vita Cafe (3023 N.E. Alberta St.; 503-335-8233; vita-cafe.com), which originally opened in 1999 on the south end of the street, before moving to its current location last year — directly across the street from its old location. the move has proved anything but pointless. now, big south-facing windows let sunshine pour into the dining room, with breezes blowing throughout on warm days. While the menu emphasizes vegan and vegetarian interpretations of deli classics — tempeh reubens, seitan cheese-steak sandwiches — there’s plenty for omnivores, such as hormonefree beef burgers and caesar salad with shrimp. in a lot of ways, Vita feels like the summation of everything that’s going on along alberta. there’s a place at the table for everyone — something those galleries were striving for when they created the arts district and changed the neighborhood forever. £

LAKE OSWEGO: Downtown

LAKE OSWEGO: Kruse Way area 8

43 4

▲ N

Evergreen Rd

Kruse Way

Lak eB ay C t 2

N State St

1st St

2nd St

3rd St

A Ave

Westlake Drive

217

4th St

5th St

B Ave

Willamette River

Exit 292-B

Kerr Parkway

6th St

▲ N

C Ave

7th St

I-5

Boones Ferry R d

PCC -Sylvania Campus

Lakewood Bay 3

THE ARTISAN

CUSTOM FRAMING & GALLERY

With more than 40 years experience, our creative and dedicated team will help you choose the perfect design to best enhance your artwork and compliment your decor. Using hand-cut mats, museum glass, and hundreds of unique all-wood or metal frames, we work to insure our clients complete satisfaction. WE ARE NOT SATISFIED UNTIL YOU ARE!

Lakeside Home & Gift

Bistro & Wine Shop

From high design to a touch of whimsey, Lakeside has it all. - Home Decor - Furniture - Candles & Gifts - Bath & Body - Baby Gifts - Entertainment and much more

Located at Westlake Village in Lake Oswego, the Olive and the Grape offers innovative menus with an emphasis on the freshest seasonal ingredients and an artful, creative presentation by French Laundry trained Executive Chef, Ellen Hatzi. The Olive and the Grape is your neighborhood bistro and wine shop.

Feather Your Nest!

267 A Avenue 503.635.4590 www.artisanframinglo.com

World Class Wines

220 A Avenue #104 503.305.6321 www.silkwood.us

Hours: Tue-Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-4pm

14559 Westlake Drive 503.747.7263 www.theoliveandthegrape.net

101 A Ave 503.974.9230 www.lakesidehomeandgift.com 5

Silkwood proudly sells clothing made in the USA as well as modern European designs and one of a kind pieces. We also feature a line of custom handmade baby and young children’s clothing designed and made right in Lake Oswego.

Dyke has been creating custom gold and platinum jewelry since 1970. He features the ﬁnest in precious gemstones along with Premium and Ideal cut diamonds and welcomes design appointments for your dreams to be transformed into reality.

Exceptional wines at exceptional prices. • Affordable wines from around the world • Friday night tastings • Private tastings by reservation • Conveniently located 269 “A” Avenue 503.974.9841 www.worldclasswinesoregon.com

Lake Oswego Marketplace

27 “A” Avenue 503.636.4025 www.vandenburghjewelers.com 8

RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Fine Middle Eastern Dining and family entertainment, located across from the PCC Sylvania campus. Kolbeh’s exquisite food is the talk of the town. Come in for an evening of spirits, conversation, dancing or to enjoy a variety of Shisha ﬂavors from our outside Hookah patio. Hours: Mon 11am-3pm; T-Thur 11am-9pm; Fri 11am-10pm; Sat 12-10pm; Sun 12-6pm 11830 SW Kerr Parkway 503.245.1662 www.kolbehpdx.com

Come to Walter Mitty’s where all our tables are quaint & cozy. Enjoy your meal in the dining room or on our beautiful spacious patio. Try one of our specialties including steaks, fresh pasta, wilted spinach salad & Halibut ﬁsh & chips. Hours: Mon-Sat, 11am-midnight Sun, 1pm-9pm 11830 Kerr Parkway (Mt Park Plaza, opposite PCC Sylvania) 503.246.7153 www.waltermittys.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Leah Davidson at 503.221.8300 or leahd@sales.oregonian.com

pubcrawl

[ Raise your GPA in IPA at beer school ] e can all learn more about beer, which is how a grizzled two-decadesand-counting chronicler and fan of craft beer came to be at the Saraveza bar on a recent evening, wondering why the Oregon Beer Odyssey class about Great Beers of the Northwest began with a taste of the veddy English pub ale Old Speckled Hen. Actually, beer school founders and instructors Ben Edmunds and Rob Bosworth gladdened my heart by first pouring us one of my all-time favorite beers, Anchor Steam, and then telling us that it

By JOHN FOyStON / PHOtOGRAPHy By MIkE dAvIS

was the nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fallback beer: If we wanted more, we had only to ask and our glasses would be replenished. I knew immediately that I was going to like this class ever so much more than the Introduction to Algebra I took back in high school. My classmates were just slightly older than the ones I would have had back then; these were earnest young beer fans, suggesting that not all fall prey to the carefully crafted anti-corporate persona of Pabst Blue Ribbon. Several were in their first year of legal drinking. A couple were out-of-towners visiting their brothers in Portland. Elyse and Andy were on a date night.

pubcrawl cont.

Tasting Room hours: Tue-Sun 11-5pm

“the biggest surprise for me has been the demographic diversity,” said Ben Edmunds. “I figured that most people would be in their mid-30s, but we have wineloving couples in their 50s, twentysomething students, beer geeks who know all the local brewers by name — our groups are united by the fact that everyone wants to try some great beers and learn more about them.” Anchor Steam qualifies as one of the world’s great beers, but it’s not exactly a Northwest beer. But it counts as the first American craft beer, and Edmunds wove it into the night’s curriculum in a brief history of the brewing industry, including the dark decade of the 1970s, when just 44 breweries operated in the United States and the smart money bet that mergers and economy of scale would shrink that total to fewer than 10. Luckily, the smart money was dead wrong and what was seen as a trend was instead the pendulum reaching the end of its swing, because American craft brewing began in earnest in the 1980s, and today the U.S. has about 1,600 breweries, more than any other country. the Northwest accounts for many of those pubs and breweries, says Edmunds. Still, why were we starting our class on the Beers of the Northwest with a classic English pub ale? Simple, really, He wanted us to determine if there was a hausgeschmack — a characteristic flavor — of Northwest beers and he did it by comparing Old Speckled Hen, a classic English Extra Special Bitter, with a Northwest

Ben Edmunds (left) and Rob Bosworth meet at different pubs around the city for each session of their beer school,

version of the same. the Brit beer was … ummmm … very polite, as Brit beers tend to be. Mild. Low in alcohol. Lightbodied. Quaffable. Almost devoid of hop flavor or aroma. One of the samplers detected bubble gum in the flavor, which Edmunds suggested might be the ester-y fruitiness of the ale yeast. A word here on style: Edmunds — who is a professional brewer, was a high school philosophy and Spanish teacher in Colorado, has studied brewing in Germany and Belgium, has a diploma from America’s oldest brewing school, Chicago’s Siebel Institute, and has a degree in Latin American literature from yale — could easily lecture for two hours. to his credit, he doesn’t. Instead, he delights in the dialogue, the Socratic method of stimulating thought by asking questions, and he always asked the class what they were tasting instead of telling them what they “should” be experiencing. He never belittled their observations, because he well knows that the flavors of beer are elusive

He wanted us to determine if there was a hausgeschmack ... of Northwest beers.

— and often allusive — so that one taster’s “bubble gum” or another’s “soapy” are valid ways to describe flavors that might, after more experience, be labeled “ester-y” or “floral.” though he did do a momentary double take when one student described an espresso stout as akin to walking in cold mud. to his credit, he rallied quickly: “that’s a good way to put it,” he said. “I can see that.” Beer steward Bosworth brought around a tray of tasters each with an inch or so of Elysian’s the Wise, a Northwest version of an ESB. “you can taste the difference,” Edmunds said. “this is an exciting, seductive beer with lots of Northwest hops and about 6.5 percent alcohol. this is pretty much the Northwest baseline.” Once he established that baseline, Edmunds took the class through some of the area’s signature styles including Oakshire’s O’dark:30, a Cascadian dark ale; a farmhouse ale from Upright Brewing; an espresso stout from Laurelwood; Hair of the dog’s robust Adam; a complex sour beer from Cascade Brewing; and, of course, three India pale ales, the beer closest to being Oregon’s state beer, were there such a thing. But first, the IPA legend, he told the class. “It’s not true exactly, but you do need to know it because beer geeks will judge you by it.” the legend is that London brewers made an ale that could survive 12,000 sea miles to India (where brewing wasn’t possible because

��

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Rated “Clucktacular” —Grant Butler, A&E

Best

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Sandwiches & Salads, too. of the heat) only by making a strong, hoppy beer called an India pale ale. the facts do get in the way some: For instance, some IPAs were no stronger than other beers of the time, but the legend is a good one and Edmunds urged his students to pass it along with that caveat. He then led the class through three very different IPAs: Bear Republic’s Racer 5, Hopworks’ and Pelican’s. He used spider charts — pentagons labeled fruity, citrus, floral, herbal and evergreen/ pine at each peak — to graph the different flavor profiles. “I could have picked other California IPAs for this comparison,” he said as he talked about the Racer 5. “We could’ve used Stone IPA, Firestone Walker or Green Flash and just like this, you’d first notice the sweetness compared to the Oregon IPAs. the California IPAs tend to be fruitier and not as bitter or astringent.” that flexibility when it comes to choosing beers is no accident. Edmunds, longtime friend Jason yale and Rob Bosworth began Oregon Beer Odyssey earlier this year as a company unaffiliated with any pub or brewery. “We value our independence,” Edmunds said, “We aren’t tied to serving any one beer or promoting any company, so our recommendations and classes are the honest and unfiltered opinions of a highly beer-knowledgeable staff.”

Great Beers of the Northwest is one of several classes offered each month at different pubs and bottle shops. they’re all $35 per person and include Beer School 101; Hophead’s delight: An Exploration of Hoppy Beers; Beers of Germany; Wild and Sour Beers; Brewed by Monks; and tasting and talking About Beers, which they recommend as the introductory course. “that and Great Beers of the Northwest are good starting points,” Edmunds said, “but there are no prerequisites for any of our classes. Our classes are not heavy on technical information, but we know that the more in-depth classes on specific beer styles are better appreciated if you have a background.” the format is similar in each: the Beer Odyssey team moves into a pub such as Saraveza, EastBurn, the Beermongers or Hop & vine and sets up class. “At the beginning, that was the thing I was most unsure about how it would work,” Edmunds said. “I had no idea whether we could get publicans to let us use their facility, but they’ve been just great. Everybody has said that is something they want to see in the community, and they’ve all been very supportive.” Class schedule and descriptions: oregonbeerodyssey.com Register by e-mail: oregon.beer.odyssey@gmail.com

Our 12 Homemade Sauces now available at Whole Foods & New Seasons 1708 E. Burnside Ave. 503.230.WING (9464) 4225 N. Interstate Ave. 503.280.WING (9464)

www.portlandwings.com

Train to become a Culinary Professional!

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Le Cordon Bleu programs offer: • Hands-on training • Experienced chef instructors • Externship opportunities • Day and evening classes • Financial aid for those who qualify

Text PORTCOOK1 to 78573 or call

1.888.546.8222

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Le Cordon Bleu ® and the Le Cordon Bleu logo are registered trademarks of Career Education Corporation. Le Cordon Bleu does not guarantee employment or salary. CEC2349407 06/10

pubcrawl cont. Discover and buy fresh produce grown from 68 local area farms at:

www.tricountyfarm.org

Five ways to learn more about beer CERTIFIED SUSTAINABLE - ESTATE GROWN

Come visit us over Labor Day Weekend Est. 1995

Open daily 11-5 through October 11-4 November through April

www.willakenzie.com

19143 N.E. Laughlin Road - Yamhill, OR 97148

Wine Country Glamour

Come experience first-hand the passion, fun, and mess required to make great wines. Our Harvest Volunteer Program to benefit ¡SALUD! gets you in the cellar to experience all the excitement of harvest. Join the crew afterward for an unforgettable harvest-meal.

PINOT NOIR

PINOT BLANC PINOT GRIS

Participation is free, but donations to ¡SALUD! are encouraged

www.anneamie.com Ph: 503-864-2991

6580 NE Mineral Springs Rd, Carlton OR 97111 Email: Contactus@anneamie.com

Tasting Room Open Daily 10AM to 5PM

1 BECOME A HOMEBREWER: Homebrewers may once have been motivated by the desire to save money, and some may still, but most are passionately committed to making interesting beers, and nearly all of our best commercial brewers began as homebrewers. But, you ask, why should I learn to brew when I live in one of the greatest beer cities on the planet? “By brewing your own, you can make just the beer you want,” says longtime brewing instructor Michel Brown. “When was the last time you saw an ordinary bitter on tap in a pub? When did you last see a 60-shilling Scottish ale or a peanut butter porter?” Not only has he made all of those beers, he’s also got a good point: If you really want to get involved with beer, learn to brew it. Just be ready to learn that cleaning and sanitizing are two different things: you’ll be doing plenty of each. 2 bEcoME a cErtIFIED bEEr JuDGE: It sounds like the perfect job, sitting down to a dozen pale ales or American brown ales and deciding which shall reign supreme. But being a beer judge requires an impressive taste memory, and an ability to accurately describe how closely a beer comes to the guidelines of its style — and there are two dozen styles, with many multiple subsets. Add in palate fatigue and the effect of sipping

beer for several hours, plus writing down cogent comments for each entry, and you can begin to see that being a beer judge is not like having a couple of cold brews with your bros. But should you decide you really want to learn about beer, you could sign up for one of the Oregon Brew Crew’s classes for the Beer Judge Certification Program. At 10 sessions that include tastings and technical work and a loose-leaf binder of a couple hundred pages, the class is not really long enough, says homebrewer Bill Schneller, who is one of the few Oregon judges of BJCP National rank. the three-hour certification exam sounds pretty much like most peoples’ worst nightmare: 10 essay questions and three blind tastings, and you have to score at least 60 percent to make the lowest rank of Recognized judge (higher ranks up to Grand Master require better scores and experience points). Lots of people don’t pass the first time, but you will know a LOt more about beer. bjcp.org 3 rEaD a GooD booK: Just as there’s a world of great beer out there, so is there a world of great beer books, starting with just about anything by the late Brit beer writer Michael Jackson, such as “Michael Jackson’s Beer Companion.” the

Introducing Portland Eats Out, a community of like-minded eaters coming together as members of a dining club to support our local restaurant community and promote hunger relief in Oregon.

Eat well. Give Back.

Members receive a 15% discount, ﬁve days per week, at participating eateries. 10% of every paid membership is donated to Oregon Food Bank.

classic book that launched 10,000 homebrewers is Charlie Papazian’s Homebrewing”; Randy Mosher has published several excellent The Complete Joy of brewing books, but his most recent is also the most accessible to beer fans who want to know more — “Tasting Beer: An Insider’s Guide to the World’s Greatest Drink”; “1001 Beers You must Taste Before You Die,” edited by Adrian tierney-Jones is a gorgeous, seductive tour of the world’s beers and history; and “The Brewmaster’s Bible” by Stephen Snyder is a nuts-and-bolts guide to designing and brewing beers of the recognized styles. 4 FrEQuEnt F.H. StEInbart: there are other excellent homebrew shops in the area, but Steinbart, which opened its doors in 1918, is a Portland icon. the Southeast Portland retail store is full of the thousands of items required by homebrewers and vintners — the brew kettles, mash tuns, sparge vessels, hand-cranked mills, carboys, bottle cappers, bottle drying racks and homebrew starter kits from the $150 die Hard to the $75 Hobbyist. there are ingredients, too: Steinbart carries more malt extracts, the big cans of syrup that allow brewers to make reasonable facsimiles of most beers of the world, from a Belgian kriek to an American lite lager. When brewers graduate to the more complicated — and more controllable — all-grain brewing, Steinbart is ready with about 60 brewing grains, 50 kinds of hops

and more than 30 liquid yeasts. And at every point of the way, the staff — homebrewers all — are there to offer advice and encouragement. As one once said to a nervous beginner, “Look, if a 13th-century peasant could brew beer, then I think we can figure it out, too.” 5 HanG out at a GooD bottlE SHop or bEEr bar: the level of beer-expertise among pubsters and servers is not always the best, and sometimes deplorably low. that’s why you should frequent bars where good beer and knowledgeable servers are the norm, not the exception. In Portland, that list includes the Horse Brass Pub, Baileys’ Taproom, Concordia Ale House, the Green Dragon, Apex on Southeast division, the recently opened Hair of the Dog Tasting Room and the Cascade Brewing Barrel House, both in close-in Southeast and Plew’s Brews in downtown St. Johns, which has been getting lots of good buzz for its promotion of the Slow Beer lifestyle. Bottle shops are another nexus of knowledge, and three of my favorites are also places where you can sit at the bar for a draft beer or pour a bottle from the coolers. Belmont Station has a schedule jammed with more than a hundred tastings and events every year, and a fine knowledgeable staff. The Beermongers on Southeast division is gaining a solid rep as Good Beer central, as is Hop & Vine on North killingsworth Street. — John Foyston

Join today at portlandeatsout.com!

Check portlandeatsout.com for the current list of eateries. Or, follow us on Facebook & Twitter to see who’s joined today! New eateries are joining every day! Those ﬁrst on board include: Tabla, Fratelli , Acadia, Olympic Provisions, Genoa, Accanto, Ruby Jewel Scoops, An Xuyen Bakery, Flying Cat Coffee House, Seven Virtues Coffee, Vino Paradiso, Viking Soul Food, Trebol, Ten 01.

Sellwood neighborhood

Blvd 1

SE Knapp St

SE 13th Ave

oo llw e S

vd Bl

SE Rex St

SE Malden St

SE Lambert St 6

Moreland Vision Source Come experience our exclusive optical gallery featuring hand painted, stained glass eyewear from Studio3 Occhiali, imported from Italy. We also carry famous designer eyewear such as Gucci, Liz Claiborne, Silhouette, Cole Haan, Lafont, Calvin Klein and Sean John, just to name a few. Stop by and check us out!

SE Milwaukie Ave

SE Rural St

SE Milwaukie Ave

SE Bybee

SE Bidwell St

Well-chosen antiques, art and curiosities

6539 SE Milwaukie Ave 503.236.6008 www.visionsource-moreland.com

7805 SE 13th Avenue 503.233.3731

SE Lexington St

▲ N

8 7

Farmhouse Antiques

SE Miller St

M di Madison P Parkk Antiques

SE Spokane St

SE 17th Ave

SE Tacoma St

SE Harney St

Finds Old & New

Sellwood’s favorite mini-mall! - Vintage jewelry - Hats - Furniture - Cast Iron - Glassware - Pottery - Post Cards - Holiday decor – And more! Always buying - 7 dealers. Open daily 11-5. 8028 SE 13th Avenue 503.232-6757

Finds Old & New offers a charming blend of old, very old, and not so old, treasures. Specializing in: • Vintage & artisan jewelry • Asian antiques • Furniture • Unique & eclectic ﬁnds We buy and welcome consignments. Open Tuesday to Sunday

7907 SE 13th Avenue 503.235.0892 8

CoCo Gets

Dressed Are you in a charming shop on the streets of Paris? Or did you step into CoCo & Toulouse Go Shopping? Look for Votivo and other fabulous candles, luscious parfumes, soaps, lotions, and potions, many from France! You may spy handmade Sterling Bangles and bobbles by the owner, Jo Ellen Newton, plus an affordable assortment of earrings, necklaces, and charms. Come see us!

Ah, ﬁnally a clothing boutique for real women. Women with style, taste, and a bit of whimsy. Always fashion forward, comfortable, and easy care. Award winning jewelry artists and the ﬁnest collection of HOBO Handbags, Wallets, and Clutches reside here too! We are not teasing when we say, “CoCo Gets Dressed has clothing that tickles your soul.”

7080 SE 16th Avenue 503.236.5999

7007 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.7777

Sellwood Marketplace

Serving all those seeking a better life with their dogs and cats. We strive to provide your dog with natural food, outdoor wear, toys, treats and beds. Find surprises at every turn for both you and your dog.

Great coffee starts with great beans. Get your fresh roasted coffee beans at Blue Kangaroo Coffee Roaster; your local, independent small batch roaster located in the heart of Sellwood. We would love to talk coffee with you!

Hours: Mon – Fri 9am – 7pm, Sat 9am – 6pm, Sun 11am – 5pm

Open 7 days a week until 6:00pm

8334 SE 17th Avenue. 503.239.1517 www.sellwooddogsupply.com

7901 SE 13th Avenue 503.756.0224 www.BlueKangarooCoffee.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Jeff Brosy at 503.221.8320 or jeffb@sales.oregonian.com

eat here/orcas island

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[ For eco-conscious foodies, their own island paradise ]

By krIs weTherBee / phOTOgraphy By jamIe fraNcIs

New Leaf cafe

ike many coastal destinations, Orcas Island is swimming in fresh seafood. But wade a bit deeper and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll discover plenty of unexpected treasures as the local need for fresh products have brought tidal waves of options to the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurants. Now the catch of the day includes a cornucopia of fresh, locally grown and often organic produce and sustainably harvested seafood along with free-range island meats and poultry. The food is fantastic and the views are phenomenal.

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kathryn Taylor chocolates

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chimayo a sWeet BeGinninG ask any islander where to get a sweet treat and most are quick to say “Kathryn Taylor Chocolates” (109 N. Beach road; 360376-1030; ktchocolates.com). a great cozy place filled with unexpected pleasures, this jewel box of a chocolate shop serves up elegant desserts along with excellent mochas, espressos, tea and chocolate beverages. But it’s their handcrafted Bon Bons ($2 each) in unexpected combinations that draw raves from tourists and locals. They use predominantly local and organic ingredients combined with exceptional french chocolate, and they top each piece with hand-painted tiles and marbled flowers for a complexity of incredible flavors and visual appeal. chocolate offerings change with the seasons, though you can always count on summer

standards like black raspberry and rhubarb. perennial flavors such as espresso caramel and pistachio fig always have a place in the showcase, which, by the way, also serves as the menu.

a shot at redeMPtion you’ll have to take a few twists and turns to find the southwestinspired restaurant Chimayo (123 N. Beach road; 360-376-6394), but the rewards make the hunt worthwhile. Located inside Our house mall past an enclave of shops, chimayo is a tasty infusion of fresh ingredients and innovative flavors for a lighter New mexican cuisine. chicken is trimmed and skinless, the beans contain no lard, and they use healthy oils like canola and olive oil. chimayo is simple yet sensational. you order at the counter, take a seat and enjoy. some say it’s even magical — healing dirt from the small New mexican town of chimayo is plastered into

the building’s walls and behind the fireplace. popular items on the menu include red snapper tacos, chicken tortilla pie and made-to-order burritos. But the one dish that brought chimayo success is their $9.75 redemption salad, a legendary customer favorite for over 15 years. add chicken or shredded beef for $2. (Dinner price is $12.95; topped with grilled marinated prawns $14.95.) The allstar attraction features fresh greens, avocado, tomato, pumpkin seeds, rice, black beans and cheese tossed with a spicy cumin vinaigrette.

celeBratinG local FarMers Located on the main thoroughfare of eastsound village, New Leaf Cafe at the Outlook Inn (171 main st.; 360-376-2200; outlookinn. com) reveals a different side once you step inside the waterfront

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New Leaf cafe restaurant. sure, the seafood is excellent and the eastsound Bay view is stunning, whether dining on the deck or gazing out the wall of windows from inside. But inside the mood is chic and contemporary, yet cozy and intimate — the perfect setting in which to enjoy a meal and lively conversation. The menu highlights seasonal free-range meats, exotic seafood, ethnic ingredients, local organic foods and rich desserts. start your dinner off with one of their signature cocktails, with special and unique blends of elixirs that include a lavender vanilla vodka or a jalapeño and pineapple infused tequila. Dive into a seismic starter of the Northwest shellfish pot steeped in wine and herbs. Then cap it off with the $24 Local farmers showcase — a picturesque sauté of the season’s best local produce. summer months typically feature a

colorful mélange of fingerling potatoes, summer squash, tomatoes, mushrooms, beets, purple-top turnips, baby carrots, greens, roasted garlic and garlic scapes and various fresh herbs. and it’s a great meal with which to enjoy the sunset.

the salMon Gold standard Billed as “fast enough asian food,” The Kitchen (249 prune alley; 360-376-6958) is a popular hangout for locals. One reason is that owner/chef charles Dalton’s food philosophy plays out from farm to table: Buy it organic and from local producers, make it here, keep it simple, keep it fresh. Dalton needs to add “keep it tasty” to the list, as the food is simply delicious. and with most entrees priced between $8-$12, you leave feeling full and so does your wallet. a flower

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garden greets you as you wind your way to the backside of this vintage bungalow. The vibe is very laid-back and eclectic. Indoor seating is limited but typically available as most diners choose to eat on outside tables on the wood deck or lawn. Or phone in your order for a takeout picnic to enjoy by the bay or on a scenic hike. The fried tofu and sesame rice cakes brimming with seasonal veggies is a local favorite. One regular menu offering is the pan seared wild salmon special ($14). Dressed in a citrus-garlic sauce and served over noodles or brown rice, the dish features an assortment of seasonal veggies, such as gai lan (chinese broccoli), snap peas, beets, carrots, zucchini, spring onions and roasted yams. save room for cookies, but consider yourself forewarned — the peanut butter black sesame cookies are truly addicting!

FarMhoUse oF FlaVors housed in an 1860s farmhouse just one mile from the village of eastsound, Inn at Ship Bay (326 Olga road; 1-877-2767296; 360-376-5886;

innatshipbay.com) sits at the top of a bluff overlooking outstanding views of the wild southern shoreline. chef/ owner geddes martin delights with a flavorful bounty that includes fresh herbs, vegetables and fruit from the on-premises garden and renovated heirloom plum, pear and apple orchards. Locally farmed and often organic products are also featured on the menu, including regulars like judd cove oysters and kamilche seafarms mussels. Tease your taste buds with the marinated pecorino fresco ($9), a local treasure of fava beans, basil, extra virgin olive oil, lemon and toasted walnuts over regional greens. Drizzled with balsamic vinegar, the pecorino — a hard Italian cheese made from sheep’s milk — rounds out the salad for a beautiful balance of texture and flavor. Lead into a seared and roasted duck breast entree or the customer favorite — a to-die-for bouillabaisse swimming in saffron-citrus broth. and for the ultimate Orcas Island experience, dine outdoors on the waterfront patio while watching resident bald eagles soar within view. £

scene Our picks for what to eat where

COMPILeD BY grant Butler CONTrIBuTOrS grant Butler Teri gelber Brent Hunsberger Shawn Levy Katherine Miller Bridget A. Otto roger Porter Michael russell David Sarasohn DeAnn Welker Kimberly A.C. Wilson Michael C. Zusman

PHOTOgrAPH BY rANDY L. rASMuSSeN

High-end splendor

Where to celebrate the big birthday, the promotion or the hot romance. Alba Osteria & Enoteca 6440 S.W. Capitol Highway 503-977-3045 albaosteria.com Off on the edge of Hillsdale, chef-owner Kurt Spak has established a proud piece of Piedmont in Portland, an Italian outpost drawing diners from distant ZIP codes. Spak effectively invokes the seasons, from spring asparagus to fall mushrooms, and matches Northwest Italy with Northwest cuisine in dishes such as Dungeness crab crostone, a

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towering pile of shellfish spilled over a baguette. He specializes in maximal flavors — agnolotti stuffed with veal, pork and rabbit; a huge pork chop with walnut-moscato sauce — and minimal decoration. A Piedmontese wine list offers vintages rarely seen in these parts, designed to stand up to a forceful menu. Don’t miss house-made pasta, all-yolk tajarin and tiny agnolotti — and Alba’s own gelato. Beast 5425 N.E. 30th Ave. 503-841-6968 beastpdx.com Naomi Pomeroy, deservedly nominated for a James Beard award this year, runs a restaurant that’s both intimate and communal. You sit at long

tables, and some of your pleasure depends on your neighbors, but the guests tend to be knowledgeable food mavens, so there’s inevitably good conversation. Since everyone is eating the same food, the meal itself is the verbal centerpiece. The dinner, whose menu changes weekly and is as responsive to the seasons as a robin, is completely set, and it’s usually a 21⁄2hour affair, beautifully paced with superb service. Pomeroy’s cooking is inspired by French grandmothers, with touches rustic and elegant. Fenouil 900 N.W. 11th Ave. 503-525-2225 www.fenouilinthepearl.com This is the most glamorous dining room in town, and you’ll

feel pampered as you gaze out on the leafy expanse of Jamison Square. Jake Martin, formerly of Carlyle, has transformed the restaurant from a mediocre bistro to a palace of sumptuous, innovative, beautifully prepared dishes that blend the Northwest and France. The recipes are never orthodox but strive for painterly aesthetics and surprising marriages of ingredients, as his cooking transforms the mundane into the sublime at every turn. Like so many young chefs, Martin loves high-end ingredients like foie gras, and low,

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PAIR it with STELLA Fried Calamari with Meyer Lemon Puree Chef Peter, Giorgio’s Restaurant 1131 NW Hoyt St, Portand

COMPONENTS • Fresh calamari • Club soda (to cover calamari) • Flour mix (see below) • Canola oil for deep frying (350 degrees) • Wild arugula (substitute any beautiful lettuce or fennel) • Meyer lemon wedge & peel (substitute lemon wedge & peel) • Simple syrup (dissolve one part sugar in one part boiling water) to cover lemon peels

PROCESSING

Peel and clean out calamari. Slice the body very thin. Remove the beak from the tentacles. Submerge in club soda for 8 minutes. Strain and reserve on ice.

BREADING

1 cup all-purpose flour 1 tsp. cayenne 1 tsp. sea salt Mix together until incorporated.

Heat 1 quart canola oil in deep 4 quart pot to 350°. Toss calamari in flour and shake off well. Toss immediately in the oil and stir so they don’t stick and fry till crisp but not brown, 1 minute. Remove and season with fresh lemon juice and salt. Place lemon wedge and arugula on a plate and top with calamari. Open beer or wine and enjoy…

PRESERVED MEYER LEMON PUREE

Preserved Meyer lemon peel, no pith Simple syrup to cover Place peels in cold water to cover and bring to a boil, strain into ice bath. Repeat, three times. Place peels in simple syrup and cool gently until very soft, 30 minutes. Puree in blender until very smooth adding water if needed. Consistency should be like mayonnaise.

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scene formerly disposable ones like the meat from the head of pigs, here turned into a delicious pâté fried in panko. One of the pleasures of dining at Fenouil is to see how Martin’s transformational cooking works to create elegant surprises.

and lovingly nestled in the curve of the plump bratwurst; and dumplings made of ricotta and nettles, splashed with greens and black trumpet mushrooms.

Genoa 2832 S.E. Belmont St. 503-238-1464 genoarestaurant.com For 40 years, genoa was a standard-setting landmark in Portland, until it expired early last year in the bank (and restaurant) meltdown. But barely six months later, it reappeared, with a somewhat streamlined menu (five courses instead of seven), an upscaled space and a talented young chef, David Anderson. The reopening of Portland’s specialoccasion restaurant is itself a special occasion. As before, the menu (appetizer, pasta, salad, entree, dessert) changes every two weeks, drawing from a different part of Italy each round, so consistency can be an issue. But so can brilliance, which can pop up in any part of the menu, from buckwheat noodles baked with pancetta and Taleggio cheese to grilled quail in a sauce of sausage and chicken liver to airy dessert soufflés. Accompanying everything are the service and ambience that make genoa a feature in so many Portlanders’ memories.

Places where stretching your dollars is easy — and tasty.

Grüner 527 S.W. 12th Ave. 503-241-7163 grunerpdx.com Chris Israel is one of Portland’s culinary treasures, and he’s taken a bold step by featuring the cooking of Northern europe at his new restaurant. Bold because we normally don’t think of Austria, germany, eastern europe or Switzerland when we have serious food cravings. But this elegant, charming spot will change your mind. grüner’s success stems from its blend of flair and style with homey dishes that seem to emerge right from your grandmother’s pot. Don’t miss the large Swabian ravioli called maultaschen, each filled with veal, pork and spinach; the charcuterie sampler featuring a panoply of house-cured meats; choucroute garni laden with sausages, pork belly and pork tenderloin all done in-house, the sauerkraut creamy

On the cheap Bunk Sandwiches 621 S.E. Morrison St. 503-477-9515 bunksandwiches.com The spectacle of people queued outside at midday on a major thoroughfare in all types of weather might signal an unemployment center or a newly released Apple gizmo. But if it’s the 600 block of Southeast Morrison Street along which that line snakes, then it’s to do with sandwiches: big, flavorful, glorious and yet humble and sincere sandwiches only available at lunchtime. Chefs Tommy Habetz and Nick Wood have tony restaurant pedigrees, but their work here is all about comfort food — meats and fishes and cheeses and veggies and sauces stacked between a couple of pieces of bread (or, often, between the two sides of a roll or bun). The flavors are immense and (this matters) familiar: Bunk doesn’t so much reinvent the sandwiches it serves as define them. Work your way through this menu and the only mystery remaining about that perennial line outside is: “How come it isn’t longer?” Evoe 3731 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 503-232-1010 pastaworks.com/evoe This small space adjacent and open to Pastaworks is ground

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zero for the best lunch (and unfortunately there’s only lunch) in town. Kevin gibson works wonders at an electric stove and two hot plates, turning out stunning sandwiches, amazing salads and a sublime soup or two, redefining each genre with every new recipe. He works slowly, intensely and meticulously, a culinary craftsman who lavishes as much attention on garnishes as on central ingredients. His taste is exquisite, and you’ll relish every dish on the large blackboard. Try to sit at the counter and watch the master at work as he composes dishes with eye-opening surprises. Don’t miss The gallego — a seductive sandwich of sardine, fennel and hot pepper slaw. The Heathman Bar 1001 S.W. Broadway 503-790-7752 heathmanrestaurantandbar.com Lots of Portlanders think of the Heathman when they think “fine dining” or “special occasion.” Very few think of it when it comes to eating cheaply. But the smallplates Bistro Menu — which, unlike happy hour, doesn’t require a drink purchase and is served from 2 p.m. until close — might make you think twice. You’ll find a changing list of gourmet menu items, served in regular and small sizes. Your best bet is to sample several smalls: The beet salad or roasted pear and chevre are good starters, followed by the gnocchi and vegetables or the crab cake. And, whatever else you get, don’t miss the cheesy, crumbly mac and cheese.

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flaky and buttery, but solid enough to support the fillings sandwiched between top and bottom halves plus a generous splash of creamy sausage gravy. The space is tiny, with the kitchen double the size of the 15-seat dining area. The dry season expands tail space to the sidewalk, but noontime crowds can still overwhelm capacity. No one munching the kitchen sink reggie Deluxe (fried chicken breast, bacon, cheese and egg, $8) seems to mind.

Todbott’s Triangles 2827 N.E. Alberta St. 503-960-0025 todbottstriangles.com On Alberta Street, between carnicerias and cafes, Todd gillies runs a miniature rice oasis. Quirky handscribed signs point you through a bamboo trellis and down a winding gravel path to his hidden lunch spot specializing in onigiri (oh-neegeary), a traditional Japanese rice ball that predates the chopstick. The triangular rice envelopes are stuffed with tasty fillings and swaddled in toasted nori seaweed, a fist-sized nugget that makes the ultimate finger food. Pushing their stroller, a Northwest couple makes the crosstown trek weekly to fill up on Todbott’s triangles; they’re that good! gillies prepares his triangles in what might be the smallest kitchen in town. The portable snack, originally fed to Zen monks and samurai warriors, comes with your choice of five fillings ($3 each). Fermented plums with kombo seaweed wake up your palette with a salty tang. Tempeh and shiitake are bathed in a piquant mustard miso.

Best of the burbs

There’s plenty of good eating to discover, even when you’re far from downtown. China Town Restaurant 14125 S.W. Walker Road, Beaverton 503-641-4153 www.chinatownrestaurantor.com The thing to remember about good dim sum is there is no beginning and seemingly no end. So only seconds after parking at the nondescript strip mall in Beaverton, you’ll find yourself saying “yes” and “please, yes,” to each passing tray and cart heavy with dim sum favorites. even during the press of a Mother’s Day crowd, service is adroit and the offerings fresh and tasty. You’ll enjoy the deep-fried lobster pouches, the squid fried feathery light, the blocks of sticky rice steamed in lotus leaves and the piles of emerald green Chinese broccoli drizzled with smoky oyster sauce. Also, look for wok kok, mashed taro dumplings speckled with morsels of pork and shiitake mushrooms and surrounded by a crispy shell.

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el Inka Dang’s Thai Kitchen 670 N. State St., Lake Oswego 503-697-0779 Hard to believe a Thai restaurant serving such average pad Thai can do everything else so well. Makham Duck arrives hot and crunchy, basted with a special tamarind sauce, alongside fried white rice noodles and crispy basil shavings. Seafood Curry Delight is a big bowl of crab claws, calamari, mussels and shrimp swimming in curry sauce, coconut milk, crushed pineapple and — surprise — green grapes. Wide rice noodles in Pad See ew come tanned by a sweet soy sauce and a bouquet of American and Chinese broccoli. Decarli 4545 S.W. Watson Ave., Beaverton 503-641-3223 decarlirestaurant.com Beaverton’s dining options beyond ethnic fare remain sadly limited, which makes Decarli a welcome oasis. Paul Decarli, who has cooked in some of Portland’s best kitchens, isn’t pushing the envelope here, but he is using topnotch local ingredients and he’s not shy about combining assertive flavors. The food here is also rich. The exposed brick walls and lofty space feel inviting and modern, but the noise level can put a crimp in the conversation when the restaurant gets busy. Be sure to order the gnocchi with shrimp, saffron cream, green garlic and smoked paprika — a dish as luxurious as cashmere and worth every calorie. El Inka 48 N.E. Division St., Gresham 503-491-0323 elinkarestaurant.com Near the end of the gresham MAX line, facing a strip-mall parking lot, this small Peruvian rotisserie has a lot to overcome. But home-

style dishes such as the signature roast chicken — marinated for days, rubbed with cumin, black pepper and lime and rolled on spits for hours in a cherry-woodburning brick oven — should cancel out any objections to the location. The traditional Peruvian fare is a must. Order the quarterchicken ($7.99 with sides), juicy pieces of flesh and crispy skin that rivals Pok Pok’s game hen for the best bird in town, but here without a 30-minute wait. Try seco de cordero ($9.99), hunks of lamb traditionally simmered in coriander and garlic and served with white rice, pinto beans and yuca, with a trio of sauces: cilantro chutney, fiery red salsa or Peruvian hollandaise. Yuzu 4130 S.W. 117th Ave., Beaverton 503-350-1801 This near-secret, tiny hot spot full of Asian diners, foreign tongues, friendly service and a loaded menu is generally at capacity. On a Tuesday night, the earliest open table was 8 p.m., and brisk business ensued. And if what’s coming out of the small, frenetic kitchen is any indication, most everyone is coming for the large, steaming bowls of fresh ramen with perfectly chewy noodles steeped in silky broth. Although the ramen takes center stage, several starters and other small plates stand out at this izakaya. The tender, petite gyoza — six to an order — have just the proper bite and burst with spicy, spiked dice of pork. The kakuni — a semi-thick, creamy stock laden with noodles and spiked with scallions and chunks of tender roast pork loin that falls apart with a poke — bursts with the richness of a holiday meal. PHOTOgrAPH BY FAITH CATHCArT

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hiGh five banG-uP bento Bento bowls are a standard-bearer of Japanese street food, and their basic formula — rice, veggies and some form of protein — make them easy to adapt to a wide range of ingredients. — COMPILeD BY grANT BuTLer

Soylent Green bowl at Laughing Planet Cafe: As the name implies, this small Portland-based chain of health-focused eating doesn’t take itself too seriously. They use organic ingredients whenever possible, serve antibiotic-free chicken and even joke about how all of the tofu they serve is free-range. The lighthearted approach carries over to the menu, in particular the Soylent green bowl, which pulls its name from the supremely creepy sci-fi flick. A quinoa pilaf studded with shiitake and barley gets topped with steamed chard, broccoli, grilled organic tempeh and choice of cilantro pesto or shiitake mushroom sauce. Various locations, including 922 N.W. 21st Ave. 503-445-1319 laughingplanetcafe.com

Salmon bento at Tom’s 1st Avenue Bento: This downtown lunch spot is one of the best bento shops around, with the secret being the kitchen’s devotion to top-grade ingredients, particularly the fish that stars in its salmon fillets. You get a large piece of richly flavored salmon, either flamegrilled or covered with a spicy chili sauce, along with a medley of steamed veggies and white or brown rice. Dunk your fork into the side of creamy horseradish sauce to give each bite extra unctuousness. 236 S.W. First Ave. 503-241-3373 Tofu Bowl at Chef Naoko Bento Cafe: How to reconcile your “eat local” food politics with a bento craving? Head to this cheery hole-in-the-wall cafe where one of Tokyo’s pioneering organic chefs, Naoko Tamura, turns out authentic Japanese home cooking using top-notch local organic ingredients. The star is the pristine Jefferson

Laughing Planet Cafe tofu bowl, which tops a blend of white and brown rice with steamed seasonal vegetables and large hunks of teriyaki tofu. 1237 S.W. Jefferson St. 503-227-4136 chefnaoko.com The Alberta Bowl at Mississippi Marketplace’s Native Bowl: The newish pod of carts at the north end of North Mississippi Avenue is a haven for vegans, and the delicious cart Native Bowl will change tofu doubters’ minds. The menu is built around four signature bowls in stunningly large portions for $7.50, and a more-manageable regular size for $6. The Alberta Bowl is terrific if you like spice. Bite-sized chunks of grilled tofu are doused in “Fire-Breathing

Dragon Sauce,” a combo of sesame and sriracha, and served with jasmine rice, shredded cabbage, scallions and carrots. North Mississippi Avenue and Skidmore Street 503-330-7616 nativebowl.blogspot.com Chicken teriyaki at Samurai Bento: This food cart is filled with outta-thisworld flavor and freshness, rooted in owner Munekatsu Daigo’s 15 years of experience cooking in Japan. everything from the extensive menu is made to order — it helps that the cart has a full kitchen with a deep fryer, commercial griddle and six-burner gas range — including wonderfully seasoned teriyaki chicken, a generous portion of tender breast that comes with plenty of rice and steamed vegetables. 950 S.W. Alder St. 503-757-8802. PHOTOgrAPH BY JOHN M. VINCeNT

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