oiuzfds by mixafree

The UK's No.1 sewing mag

d o o g l e e F

Sizes

XS-XL

Make me

TODAY!

Bright and bold clothes you'll love to wear

Try our super scuba top

CLEVER IDEAS!

Skill-boosting

BAG PROJECT S

ALISON SMITH MBE

MASTERCL ASS Couture facings

Inspiring

r o

EMBROIDERY

W LS41.COVER UK v5.indd 1

t e Meet Butterick n . s designer g a Liesl Gibson m ld ISSUE 47 UK Â£7.99

Inspire Imagine Create

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

14/11/2017 17:09

LS47.P02.indd 2

09/11/2017 10:58

Join the coat club on page 23!

Meet the

TEAM

… to issue 47 of Love Sewing

ell I hope you've all been keeping wrapped up warm lately. It's hard to get going in a morning when it's pitch black outside but if there's one place you can always find sunshine, it's here in the pages of Love Sewing. We've filled the magazine with feel-good fashion this month; whether you're getting snuggly or enjoying party season, we can help you turn up the heat.

Meet Liesl on page 10!

Our free gift this month is a perfect transitional piece to take you through to spring; The Lisette for Butterick design features fun details to learn as well as a relaxed fit that is great for layering. We chat to Lisette designer Liesl Gibson about what it's like to partner with Butterick and how she dreamed up this gorgeous coat. She also spills the beans on the other parts of her business, so head to page 10 to read more. We were also grateful to have fabulous blogger Rachel Pinheiro in our studio sharing her version of the coat. Rachel wowed us with her use of leather piped trim and eye-catching colour blocking. With her gorgeous long legs I almost had to stand on a stool to make it into a shot with her! You see how short I actually am in this photo! I'm wearing my newly finished version of Vogue 1537 which includes a coat

LS47 pg03 Welcome v2.indd 3

Simon GUEST ART EDITOR Simon is passionate about design and has a keen eye for detail. He's creative in his spare time too and we love his range of bright and cheeky enamel pins. See more at www.instagram.com/ simonsayspins

Bethany

and dress. This bright orange wool will make sure I stand out if we get any snow and I'm now kicking myself for not following Rachel's lead and adding secret pocket lining – head to page 23 to hear her tips! I like to make myself a new coat or jacket every year but confess I'm starting to run out of room to store them. I'll just have to build an extension on my house... Remember, coat making isn't that scary, it just takes a little longer than most other projects. Work through the stages in chunks and make sure you have all your supplies before you start. If you can go the distance, you'll end up with a beautiful piece of outerwear that amazes and impresses your friends and family.

DEPUTY EDITOR Bethany loves nothing more than indulging in a quiet spot of cross stitch in her free time. She’s also the creator of the Make It Betty 'Sketch it Stitch it' notebooks available at www.makeitbetty. etsy.com

Lorna EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lorna joins the team this month and brings with her buckets of enthusiasm for making magazines. She's excited to see your makes so remember to send them to letters@lovesewingmag. co.uk

14/11/2017 16:18

Inside this ISSUE REGULARS AND FEATURES 3 6 10 12 14 16 18 23 24 26 28 33 34 37 38 41 42 50 52 55 60 65 70 74 79

Welcome Love Sewing Loves 15 minutes with Liesl Gibson Shop of the month Fabric focus – Save 20% on coating fabric at Abakhan Jade Earley the girl with the bright red hair In the good books Reader review: free pattern gift The Dressmaker’s Diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake SUBSCRIBE TODAY Sewing room swoon Machine review Pattern picks – Turn up the heat Fabric focus – Denim daze Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie WIN a £300 fabric bundle The Cocktail Hour Sew-along This month I’m making Sewing workshops Couture sew-along with Alison Smith MBE DISCOUNTS AND GIVEAWAYS A brief history of bloomers Claim your free Kwik Sew gift PATTERN READING BASICS AND FITTING ESSENTIALS Swatch Selector with Kerry Green

Lovely layers coat pattern

PROJECTS

Save over £28 when you subscribe to Love Sewing – see page 26 for further info

80 Skill building with Wendy Gardiner 87 Fabric focus – Jolly good 88 Behind the seams with Wendy Ward 91 Readers’ makes 96 Coming next issue

19 Your free Butterick pattern gift – Lisette designer coat 30 Because I’m hoppy McCall’s make-up case 44 Building blocks quilt tutorial 47 Say tees scuba top 57 Too cool for yule hoops 63 Knickers with a twist 68 Bags of style tote 72 Sort it out drawer organiser 83 Mint to be pleated skirt 92 Shake your bootees kids’ shoes 98 Winter warmer potholder

Find us online

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk /lovesewingmag

4 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 pg4-5 Contents.indd 4

14/11/2017 17:44

30 Editorial Editor Amy Thomas Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editors Kayleigh Hooton Senior Art Editor Sher Ree Tai Art Editors Simon Kay, Kate Wilde Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Ward, Jade Earley, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green

Publishing & Advertising Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Production Assistant Anna Olejarz Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Managing Editor Kate Heppell Managing Art Editor Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Financial Director Chris Dunbar Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson

Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd

Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961

Subscription Enquiries

Tel: 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk

Other Enquiries

Tel: 0844 561 1202 customerservice@practicalpublishing.co.uk Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Craft Media Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity. Stock images provided by Shutterstock, Inc

83 Practical Publishing International Ltd is a member of the PPA

t e n . s g a

CONTRIBUTORS Delia Adey and Erika Peto

Liesl Gibson

Debbie von Grabler-Crozier

Sarah Wadey

Delia and Erika are the creative duo behind Flo-Jo Boutique, a colourful fabric, haberdashery and workshop space. Try the silk knicker pattern on page 63 and visit www.flojoboutique.co.uk to see more!

We’re sure you’ll recognise Debbie as our regular bag-making expert but she’s also a talented sewing book author. She shares two fabulous projects on pages 68 and 72. Discover more at www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk

LS47 pg4-5 Contents.indd 5

Head to page 10 to meet the creator of our gorgeous free pattern gift this month, Liesl. Learn all about her diverse business creating designs for women, men and children and what it’s like to work with Butterick!

m ld

Sarah is the brains behind My Handmade Wardrobe Patterns and shares her fab scuba tee on page 47. Discover more about the exciting new line of patterns at www.myhandmadewardrobepatterns.com

r o

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 5

14/11/2017 17:44

The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month

POCKET-SIZE PALS

Prices: £9.50 each. To find your nearest stockist, visit www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist Measuring tapes don’t come much cuter than these! Each retractable 150m tape has been covered with a hand-crocheted animal character to bring some real personality to your sewing room. Choose from a sweet snail, wise elephant, cheeky fox, cuddly bear, inquisitive owl and more! Don’t forget to enter our competition to be in with the chance to win your very own measuring buddy.

3 TO WIN! Go to page 64 for more details

Dress to impress

Sizes: 16-32 (cup sizes C-H) Price: PDF $14 (approximately £10.69), paper pattern $18 (approximately £13.74) from www.cashmerette.com Looking for a pattern to take you from desk to dinner? Take a peek at the Rivermont dress and top pattern from curvy sewing stalwart Cashmerette. There are two chic options, a fitted sheath dress with optional kick pleat and slash pockets or a classic peplum top to highlight your silhouette. There are different sleeve lengths to choose from to really make it your own, just make sure to use a knit fabric which has at least 40% stretch to it.

6 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 P06-09.indd 6

14/11/2017 16:35

Stitchers gonna

Sizes: 6 months to 12 years Price: $10.50 (approximately £8) for PDF pattern from www. welcometothemousehouse.com Beginning with a classic raglan hoodie sweatshirt, the Dress Up Hoodie pattern from Mouse House Creations can be transformed into a whole world of fancy dress options. It’s designed for stretch knits, so it’s nice and comfy for kids, and there are extra pattern pieces included to allow you to add butterfly wings, a bat cape, animal ears and tails, and even a unicorn horn! It makes a great base for you to flex your design skills, with sewists using the pieces to transform it into anything from a kangaroo to a dragon. This is one hoodie you’re going to wish you could borrow!

IN THE BAG Price: £7.99 per pattern pack at www.crafterscompanion.co.uk Crafter’s Companion is encouraging you to get creative with two new bag pattern kits. Each one works perfectly in denim and comes with the pattern, stepby-step instructions and hardware you will need to create either a messenger bag or rucksack. Once you’ve followed the instructions to make your new bag, you can unleash your inner designer with embellishments such as patches, trims, bias binding or even fringing. Why not put your hand embroidery skills to the test?

Cartoon couture Price: £899 To find your local stockist, visit www.brothersewing.co.uk Brother has launched a new range of sewing and embroidery machines, including a Disney-licensed model! The M280D machine is perfect for Disney enthusiasts who want to embellish their clothes and accessories with their favourite characters. Of the impressive 125 embroidery patterns, there are 45 Disney designs to choose from, and with the 31⁄5” LCD touch screen and 181 built-in stitches, this machine certainly packs a punch! It’s simple to set up and use for not only embroidery but all of your sewing, embroidery and quilting needs.

STITCH The cross stitch and embroidery we’re loving this month

Bethany Deputy Editor

WATCH THE BIRDY! Needlecases don't come much prettier than this beautiful embroidered bird from Cath Kidston. Open it up and you'll find felt sheets to store all your different needles. Plus, it also comes with five needles to get you started! Mum, can you add this to my Christmas list? Pick up yours for £8.50 from www.cathkidston.com

FOR THE JOURNEY

Christmas for me always means lots of stitching on the go, usually on long train journeys. To save valuable suitcase space, why not try wearing one of these Clover yarn cutter pendants? They’re designed for knitters and are also great for stitchers! Available for £6 from www. hobbycraft.co.uk

SAFETY FIRST

Avoid the temptation to turn your couch into a giant pincushion as you stitch with these handy little needle minders that are laser-cut from wood and boast sweet stitchy motifs. You can find them for £5.53 each at www. aneedlerunsthroughit. etsy.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 7

LS47 P06-09.indd 7

14/11/2017 16:35

SEW

retro

Prices: From £3.50 at www.simplicitynewlook.com/ 90th-anniversary To celebrate Simplicity’s 90th anniversary year, not only has the pattern brand been delving back into its archives to release some stunning patterns, it’s also marking the occasion with an exclusive range of gifts. The collection includes everything from magnets to wall art, and tea towels to notebooks and would make perfect lastminute presents for any stylish sewist. Or, why not introduce a little vintage sophistication into your sewing room?

Seam ripper

AT THE READY! Price: £12 from www. sewmesunshine.co.uk Here at Love Sewing HQ we consider ourselves to be pretty punny (see what we did there?), so we were obviously pretty impressed to come across this cheeky tote bag. Made by Two For Joy Illustration and Design, this is the kind of coat of arms we can get on board with.

BECOME A

PYJAMA FAIRY! Visit: www.pyjamafairies.org Founded in 2015 by Amanda and Chelsea, Pyjama Fairies is a brilliant volunteer charity that focuses on helping kids to feel more comfortable while in hospital. It makes and distributes fantastic pyjamas and surgical gowns, which not only make dressing easier, but also come in bright and fun fabrics to put a smile on children’s faces. The organisation offers an important emotional boost to kids, reminding them that they are not defined by their illness. All pyjamas and gowns are free (aside from a small postage donation) and the charity is always on the lookout for more sewists to follow their simple patterns and help fulfil its growing order list. Get in touch now to offer support, donate or become a Pyjama Fairy!

8 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 P06-09.indd 8

14/11/2017 16:36

Sizes: 8-18 Prices: TPC17 drape-hem skirt £20, TPC15 tuck-sleeve top £25 at www.trendpatterns.co.uk Introduce a little catwalk chic into your wardrobe with the new autumn-winter collection from Trend Patterns. Founder Lucy Sinott has taken inspiration from current designer looks, and the range includes ruched dresses, asymmetrical skirts, balloonsleeve blouses and stunning ruffled maxi dresses. Think of it as designer fashion without the high price tag! The patterns cater for all abilities and the clear instructions ensure you can sew stylish and well-fitting garments that are effortlessly on trend.

THE WORLD OF YSL Where: Musée Yves Saint Laurent, 5 Avenue Marceau, Paris www.museeyslparis.com Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Rue Yves St Laurent, Marrakech, Morocco www.museeyslmarrakech.com You can now take a peek into the creative mind of iconic French designer Yves Saint Laurent with the launch of two new exhibition spaces. Saint Laurent’s Paris mansion has been transformed into an enormous museum and gallery to showcase his revolutionary haute couture designs. You can also visit the studio where he worked away day and night to prepare for over three decades of catwalk and accessory collections, including the designer’s original sketches, prototypes and some of his most famous garments. Saint Laurent would often sketch out his collections on trips to Marrakesh too, making the location a fitting site for the second museum, offering even more YSL luxury and inspiration for fans of his sophisticated style.

t © Pierre Bergé

Fresh from the runway

Explore

Patio circulaire, mYSLm, © Fondation Jardin Majorelle / Photo Nicolas Mathéus

Yves Saint Lauren

Price: £19.95 at www. woolandthegang.com Here at Love Sewing HQ, we’ve been spending our lunch breaks covered in rope, practising our loops and knots as we try to master the art of macramé. It’s such an addictive craft, and a great excuse to put your childhood friendship bracelet-making skills to good use! If you’re looking for a new crafty hobby to try, we love the look of this Wool and the Gang wall hanging kit, which you can make using its famous Jersey Be Good yarn. It’s also not too late to add it to your Christmas wish list!

Vue de la salle YSL © Fondation Jardin Majorelle / Photo Nicolas Mathéus

MAD ABOUT MACRAMÉ

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 9

LS47 P06-09.indd 9

14/11/2017 16:36

15 MINUTES WITH...

By design LIESL GIBSON We chatted to Liesl about her role as a guest designer for Butterick, her creative passion and what it's like to draft her own patterns

really furry and heavy to start with. Between the two layers it was quite bulky. It didn’t pose any sewing problems except for the buttonhole itself, which I sewed as a bound buttonhole because there was no way my sewing machine was going to tackle all those layers properly. (Plus, I love a good bound buttonhole!) What are your top tips for making a coat extra warm for winter? Thinsulate or other similar fabrics are a great way to add an insulated layer to ward off the deep chill of winter. I’m always cold, so it’s a necessity for me. If you add insulation to this pattern I think it’s easiest to baste it to the outer coat fabric and treat the two layers as one. But I would suggest that, unless you’re

ay hello to Liesl Gibson, the creative mastermind behind your beautiful Butterick Lisette 6423 free pattern.

Hi Liesl, tell us what inspired you to design your Lisette B6423 coat? Usually when I design I’m thinking about our customers – what they request, what they tell me they need when I teach etc. But occasionally I just make what I want to wear, and this coat is one of those designs. I wanted something contemporary with sort of a boxy, cosy cut that would be easy to throw on over almost anything all winter long. I was thrilled when everyone else seemed to like it as much as I do. We love the furry blue wool version you made too, how did this differ? Thanks! Really, the only differences between my furry version and the original was that I lined the coat in thick Thinsulate and the fabric itself was

10 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

10 liesl interview.indd 10

I love to watch people and their personal style a little more experienced as a sewist, you look for the lighter Thinsulate (it’s much less bulky) or try flannel or microfleece for insulation that’s easier to handle than my crazy bulky furry coat. Where do you look to for inspiration when designing new patterns? Everywhere! I love to watch people and their personal style and I read fashion magazines and shop in stores to see what’s happening. I travel as much as possible (which is especially fun now that we’re living in Spain and it’s easy for me to get to London and Paris, not to mention Antwerp and Amsterdam), and I look at a lot of art and read a lot of books. I adore French New-Wave film like the work of Jean-Luc Godard and browsing photography books from earlier decades. I think it’s fun to translate some of those ideas into my designs.

t e n . s g a

r o

m ld

14/11/2017 11:49

ABOUT

Cosy up!

Liesl Gibson

Use your Butterick pattern gift to make Liesl's gorgeous coat. Find more inspiration on page 19!

Liesl designs dressmaking and crafty patterns for sewists of all ages and abilities. Following the birth of her daughter, Liesl drew on her experience as a designer for fashion houses like Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, to start sewing her own original children's garments and launching the kids pattern company Oliver + S. Over the past nine years the business has grown to include Liesl + Co women's clothing, Straight Stitch Society gifts and accessory patterns and collaborating with Butterick on the Lisette pattern range. Discover more at www.lieslandco.com

You design for four different labels, how do they each differ? We produce Liesl + Co., Oliver + S and Straight Stitch Society, and I license my designs to McCall’s for the Lisette for Butterick line. Our company started with children’s sewing patterns, and I can play with silhouettes in ways that women aren’t always willing to do. So often women say they can’t wear a design because it doesn’t have a defined waist, but then they turn around and request our children’s styles for themselves! What does 2018 hold for you and your businesses? I’ve been working on new designs for Lisette for Butterick and for Liesl + Co., and we’re talking about a few other ideas as well. But we’re a small company (my husband and I are the only full-time employees and we have a few part-time freelancers), so that lets us stay flexible. I love to be a bit spontaneous in the projects we take on, so we’ll just have to wait and see what’s next for us!

10 liesl interview.indd 11

t e n . s g a

B6411 dress

r o

m ld

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 11

14/11/2017 11:49

SHOP OF THE

HAPPY HARE Sheffield

We spoke to Lisa who runs Happy Hare in Sheffield. She stocks a variety of lovely fabric suitable for dressmaking and patchwork, as well as other craft essentials to help get you started on your projects Hi there! How are you and what are you up to at the shop today? We are really busy at the moment getting ready for classes in the run up to Christmas. We are also working on writing the workshop timetable for the first quarter of next year, which involves making samples to make sure that everything will run smoothly on the day. Tell us a bit about how you came to own your own shop It’s a bit of a strange one. I have a background in vocational rehabilitation – getting people back to work after catastrophic injuries. I only learned to sew about 10 years ago, and it was a really good escape from a stressful job, helping to give me some degree of work/life balance. As the job became more stressful I started to consider alternative options, and turning the hobby I enjoyed so much into a career looked like a good possibility. Which sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner, or an experienced sewist? I get asked this question a lot, as we do an introductory sewing machine class. We use

a digital machine in our workshops, and a lot of people go away and buy them. I don’t think there’s much point in buying a very basic machine, as it can be a false economy. If you decide to do any amount of sewing, you will soon outgrow a basic machine, so it’s worth buying something pretty decent right from the start. Have you had any particularly memorable moments with customers in store? We like to see ourselves as part of the local community. We offer ‘knit and natter’ and ‘sew social’ sessions. We have also recently started an after-school club. A lot of the people who attend these sessions have complicated home lives, so spending time away from that doing something that they enjoy can be invaluable for them. Often crafting can be a solitary hobby, so it can be nice to do that in a more sociable environment, especially when hot drinks and homemade cake are included in the session. I have been told that I have saved people a fortune in therapist’s fees. It’s lovely to see new friendships forming. Two of our ladies who have recently met are going on a crochet holiday together early next year.

We have a lovely workshop space upstairs, it’s so light and airy – perfect for running classes. We also like to promote other independent businesses. We stock a small range of wool, which comes from Woolyknit near Oldham. Our patterns include those by Merchant & Mills, Cashmerette and Pauline Alice. We think it’s really important to support other small businesses as much as possible. Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about? I’m looking forward to a printing-onfabric class in the new year. It’s a two-hour introductory class, which involves using the tutor’s blocks to print onto a cushion or tote bag. I think everyone will come up with something very different, limited only by their imagination.

What sets you apart from other shops? We are a small, family-run business. My mum is usually around to help out when we are busy (and she does the baking as well!). We are always happy to give help and advice in planning your projects (although I do need to use a calculator if you want me to tell you what seven eighths of a metre is in inches!) 12 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 P12.indd 12

HAPPY HARE 1a Arundel Road, Chapeltown, Sheffield, South Yorkshire S35 2RB www.handmadehappyhare.com handmadehappyhare@yahoo.co.uk 01142 455 996 www.facebook.com/HandmadeHappyHare

r o

t e Visit us! s.n g a m ld 14/11/2017 14:46

t e n . s g a

r o

LS47.P13.indd 13

m ld

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 13

09/11/2017 12:49

Vero Moda green coat £75, Native Youth jumper £75, Vero Moda silver midi skirt £40, www.littlewoods.com

SAVE

20%

with code LOVE47* on tartan, tweed and suiting. Visit www.abakhan.co.uk to take advantage of this great discount

Abakhan is committed to sourcing the best products at the best prices for its customers. It offers regular workshops, as well as a wide selection for sewists and knitters alike.

t e n . s g a

To see the full range of fabulous dressmaking and craft fabric, haberdashery and tools, visit www.abakhan.co.uk

r o

LS47 Fabric focusv2.indd 14

m ld

*Offer expires 28th December 2017. Discount valid online only.

14/11/2017 11:04

FABRIC

Grab your COAT

Make outerwear you can't bear to take off with this fabulous discount at Abakhan 4

t e n . s g a

Fabric shopping

m ld

Green and navy check polyester viscose, ÂŁ5.50 per metre Camel Melton polyester viscose, ÂŁ11.95 per metre Cream and tan patterned wool blend, ÂŁ5.99 per metre Flesh wool-rich baby boucle, ÂŁ8.99 per metre Magenta and grey check wool blend, ÂŁ4.99 per metre Rust and grey check suiting, ÂŁ13.45 per metre Black, yellow and red patterned wool blend, ÂŁ5.99 per metre Red wool-rich baby boucle, ÂŁ8.99 per metre All fabric available at www.abakhan.co.uk

r o

LS47 Fabric focusv2.indd 15

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 15

14/11/2017 11:04

THE GIRL WITH THE BRIGHT

ABOUT

Jade

Jade Earley was a finalist on The Great British Sewing Bee 2016 where she shared her love for sewing with the world. Follow her adventures online at www. thegirlwiththebrightredhair.co.uk

r i a h d Re

ell here we are so close to Christmas and rather than thinking about woolly fabric and patterns for winter clothes I have bikinis, dresses and jumpsuits on my mind. I'm not sure if I have mentioned it once or twice... but we are away in a warm, sunny country for Christmas! The first pattern I have chosen for my alternative Christmas wear is the very stylish Mimi G Style for Simplicity 8334. I am in love with her patterns, they seem to be everything I would wear. I'm using a lovely black and white jersey from www.fabricsgalore.co.uk and I can already picture the dress in my head. Let's just hope I don’t overheat in the Egyptian sun!

This issue Jade tells us all about her plans for an alternative Christmas wardrobe! Now I definitely know I won't overheat in my next make because it’s a marble-effect bikini. As you may know I love working with scuba and Lycra, and some time ago bought some from www.funkifabrics.com to make myself a pair of gym leggings. I was delighted when I realised there was enough left over for me to make myself a bikini. I chose to use the McCall’s 7516 pattern because of the flattering highwaisted bikini bottoms! This last make is for my younger sister, Little Miss Boo. I have recently started working at a sewing shop called Stitch of Compton Street and I often find myself looking through the pattern books or the fabric and spending most of my wages in there! I happened to come across Simplicity 8100 and instantly thought how nice it would be if I made my sister a jumpsuit for our holiday. So that’s exactly what I did!

My favourite new pattern line

And before I finish off I’d like to talk about my campaign for getting skills-based activities back into schools. The education authority has sent a campaign to all the parents in the East Sussex area drawing their attention to the poor attendance record. I feel strongly that it's not just all about getting a child into school every day, it's also important to consider the health and welfare of the child, making them feel safe and recognising their strengths and not just their weaknesses. Everybody can contribute towards society in some way, whether that’s academically or through creative skills, and

Guess who's sewing bikinis in December! my campaign is aiming to increase diversity in the education system that children need. So please if you haven't yet signed my petition then please do, it would mean a great deal to me. You can find it at www.change.org/p/jade-earley-goback-to-go-forward-bring-skills-basedlessons-back-into-the-curriculum

! g n i w e s y p p a H

16 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS46 p16 Jadev2.indd 16

14/11/2017 15:33

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 17

LS47.P17.indd 17

09/11/2017 12:50

BOOK OF THE MONTH

IN THE GOOD

BOOKS Our pick of this month’s new sewing and dressmaking books

The Bag Boutique by Debbie von Grabler-Crozier, £14.99, Search Press Tell us what inspired you to write the book? The main thing was a love of sewing and a frustration about finding the perfect bag for each occasion. With so many great products around, home sewists can lift that dreaded ‘homemade’ tag and replace it with the much nicer ‘handmade’.

CRAFTY CHRISTMAS Make, sew, glue, cut and dye your way through 40 festive projects with Supercraft Christmas by Sophie Pester and Catharina Bruns. Available for £12.99 from www.dk.com

What’s your favourite project inside the book and why? That’s not an easy one to answer! Because I have created them all from the ground up and watched them develop, they are all my children now. I think that it would have to be out of the Shirley tote or the Ina bag (below). But then I like the Kirsten tote too! What is it that you love about bag making? Essentially crafting something from scratch that is both useful and practical but looks good too. I love the way that I can add a special something and the reactions of people when they see the bag and then I tell them that I made it!

Debbie

Make Debbie’s Shirley tote on page 68! of different types of interfacing and they all serve a purpose. Sometimes, there are five or more per bag.

Are there any pieces of hardware or fabric ranges you’re loving right now for bag making? Interfacing! Interfacing is like a really great bra! Seriously, every woman knows the difference fabulous undergarments can make to a dress – the wrong ones can sink the whole ship. Interfacing is the same and I would not dream of skipping it. I adore Art Gallery Fabrics for its quality and designs; I use a lot

What can we look forward to from you over the next few months? More bags! As regular readers will know, I also write patterns for quilts and other little sewn lovelies. There is another book coming out in the new year. I cannot talk about it yet, but that one is a fun one too. In the meantime, because I am a sewing addict, there will be lots of fun stuff all over the place!

STITCH HAPPY

DIY FASHION

Natalie Chanin shares her embroidery expertise and extensive stitch library in The Geometry of Hand-Sewing. Pick up your copy for £17.99 from www. abramsbooks.com

Upcycle your unwanted clothes into on-trend wardrobe staples with Violette Room’s new book, Stylish Remakes. On sale now for £7.99 at www. tuttlepublishing.com

18 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 p18 The Good Books.Library.indd 18

14/11/2017 11:44

Your free

GIFT

UNDER COVER

This coat from Butterick works perfectly as a layering piece for winter! Remember the finished measurements are printed on the pattern tissue to help you pick the perfect size!

19 butterick coat v3.indd 19

14/11/2017 17:45

19 butterick coat v3.indd 20

14/11/2017 17:45

20 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Fuchsia super-soft brushed doeskin wool, £12 per metre www.fabworks.co.uk

We used:

This pattern is designed for bulky fabric so look for wool, coating fabric or even upholstery fabric – whatever suits your taste! B6423

EASY/FACILE

Séries: Y(TP-P-M), ZZ(G-TG-TTG) TISSUS: Lainage, Laine bouillie, Mohair, Flanelle de laine, Tweed. Grandes diagonales ne conviennent pas. *Avec Sens. **Sans Sens. TAILLES TP P M G TG TTG 4-6 8-10 12-14 16-18 20-22 24-26 MANTEAU 115cm*/** 3.70 3.80 3.90 4.00 4.20 4.60 150cm*/** 2.60 2.70 3.10 3.40 3.60 3.70 ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT 46, 51cm 2.30 2.40 2.40 2.60 2.60 2.60 DOUBLURE 115cm 2.40 2.60 2.80 2.90 2.90 3.00 MERCERIE: 1 Bouton de 25mm. MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI Largeur à l’ourlet Manteau 122 127 136 146 156 166 Longueur - dos, votre nuque à l’ourlet Manteau 93 94 95 97 98 99

Combinations: Y(XS-S-M), ZZ(L-XL-XXL) FABRICS: Wool Blends, Boiled Wool, Mohair, Wool Flannel, Tweed. Unsuitable for obvious diagonals. *With Nap. **Without Nap. SIZES XS S M L XL XXL 4-6 8-10 12-14 16-18 20-22 24-26 COAT 45"*/** 4 4∂ 4≤ 4∑ 4∞ 5 60"*/** 2≥ 2π 3∑ 3∫ 3π 4 FUSIBLE INTERFACING 18", 20" 2∞ 2∫ 2∫ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ LINING 45" 2∫ 2≥ 3 3∂ 3∂ 3≤ NOTIONS: One 1" Button. FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Width, lower edge Coat 48 50 53∞ 57∞ 61∞ 65∞ Back length from base of neck Coat 36∞ 37 37∞ 38 38∞ 39

MANTEAU: Manteau très ample, doublé, à coutures princesse sur le devant en forme avec poche, soufflet arrondi sous le bras, couture inférieure du dos avec pli.

COAT: Very loose-fitting, lined coat has front shaped princess seam with pocket, curved gusset under arm, lower back seam with pleat.

BUTTERICK PATTERN, 120 BROADWAY, NEW YORK 10271 © 2016 The McCall Pattern Co. • www.butterick.com • PRINTED IN U.S.A. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. SOLD FOR INDIVIDUAL HOME USE ONLY AND NOT FOR COMMERCIAL OR MANUFACTURING PURPOSE RESERVE Á UN USAGE PERSONNEL.

ck Butteri Y/ZZ

(4-26) (XS-XXL)

SIZE/ TAILLE

B6423 XS/TP 4-6 29∞-30∞ 22-23 31∞-32∞

SIZES/TAILLES Bust Waist Hip Poitrine Taille Hanches

S/P 8-10 31∞-32∞ 24-25 33∞-34∞

75-77 56-58 80-83

80-83 61-64 85-88

97-102 76-81 102-107

87-92 67-71 92-97

L/G 16-18 38-40 30-32 40-42

M/M 12-14 34-36 26∞-28 36-38

Butterick

XL/TG 20-22 42-44 34-37 44-46 107-112 87-94 112-117

XXL/TTG 24-26 46-48 39-41∞ 48-50 117-122 99-105 122-127

B6423

YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN BLACK

Tailor’s clapper £35, www.merchantandmills.com The narrow upper edge can press open seams with ease, allowing you to run the tip of your iron along the folds. You won’t have to worry about imprinting seam lines on the RS of your garment. When it comes to wool a clapper’s broad base is perfect for holding steam into the fabric, while you also use the weight to press the collar or hem flat on the jacket.

See page 26 for details

McCALL PATTERN CO. DESIGN IN YOUR SIZE WITH EVERY ISSUE! Subscribe today to get a

SUCCESS SET FOR

Line up!

Learn how to install a lining with f Butterick's foolproo step-by-step guides

PREPARING

WOOL

Why not try wool with more noticeable texture like boucle or boiled wool? These fabrics are quite lightweight and can benefit from interfacing on every piece for more structure.

We used:

Ochre pure boiled wool £29.80 per metre, www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

19 butterick coat v3.indd 21

You may find that you don’t need to pre-shrink or clean your wool before sewing, especially if your coat is unlikely to be worn very often. And some 100% wool will be dry-clean only. If shrinking is required, take a well-filled steam iron and hover this over the fabric, about 1" above the surface, NOT touching the fabric. Repeatedly steam the fabric from above for a few seconds and work your way across the fabric in strips. You’ll probably use up all the water and need to refill halfway through.

14/11/2017 17:45

LS47.P22.indd 22

09/11/2017 12:49

pantalon semiPOUR : Short et à glissière latérale. SHORT ET PANTALON latérales, fermeture y pantalón semiSemi-fitted shorts ajustés, sans coutures Y SEÑORAS: Short PARA JÓVENES SHORTS AND PANTS:seams and invisible zipper. side SHORT Y PANTALÓN laterales, cremallera lateral. and pants have no antallados, sin costuras (18-20-22)] [(6-8-10), (12-14-16), tallas en un solo Séries/Combinaciones: dans la même pochette./Todas las sont Toutes les tailles Maille de ponte, Jersey. sobre. (12-14-16), (18-20-22)] Crêpe, Gabardine, Jersey. Combinations: [(6-8-10), Tejido de punto ponte, TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: 22 Crepé, Gabardina, Envelope. 20 18 Ponte Knit, Jersey. 16 All Sizes in One 14 TELAS SUGERIDAS: 12 m 10 Crepe, Gabardine, 8 6 1.30 1.40 1.40 SUGGESTED FABRICS: TAILLES/TALLAS 1.20 1.20 1.20 m 22 20 1.20 1.20 1.20 18 1.20 1.20 1.20 16 14 12 0.80 0.80 1.20 m 10 1∞ Yds. A 115cm*** 8 1∞ 6 0.80 0.80 0.80 2.70 2.80 2.80 SIZES 150cm*** 1≤ 1≤ 1∑ 1≤ " 2.60 2.60 2.60 m 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 1≤ 1≤ A 45"*** π π 2.20 2.20 2.60 Yds. B 115cm*** m π 3 π 3 π 1.50 1.50 1.80 2.20 2.20 2.30 60"*** 150cm*** 2≥ 2≥ 2π 2≥ " 2.00 2.00 2.10 m 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2.00 2.00 2.00 2≥ 1.80 2.00 2.00 B 45"*** 2∑ 2∑ 2≥ 1.20 1.30 1.80 m 2∞ Yds. C 115cm*** 2∑ 1∫ 1∫ 1π 1.20 1.20 1.20 2.60 2.60 2.70 60"*** 150cm*** 2∂ 2≤ 2∑ 2∂ " 2.30 2.30 2.40 m 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2.30 2.30 2.30 2.10 2.30 2.30 C 45"*** 1∑ 1π 1π 1≤ 1.40 1.50 2.10 2π Yds. D 115cm*** A A, B, C, D 2≥ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1.40 1.40 1.40 60"*** 150cm*** 2∞ 2∫ 2≥ 2∞ " m NT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIV 2∞ 2∞ 2∞ 2∞ 2∞ 0.70 0.70 0.80 D 45"*** 1∫ 2≤ 2≤ ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLA 1∞ 0.70 0.70 0.70 1∞ 1∞ 1∞ 0.60 0.60 0.60 60"*** de 18cm, Agrafe. 46, 51cm Yd. A, B, C, D π à Glissière invisible ≥ ≥ ≥ FUSIBLE INTERFACING ∫ ≥ MERCERIE: 1 Fermeture invisible de 18cm, Corchete. ≥ ∫ ACABADA 18", 20" ∫ and Eye. MERCERÍA: 1 Cremallera FINI/MEDIDAS DE LA PRENDA Invisible Zipper, Hook NOTIONS: One 7" MESURES DU VÊTEMENT no de caderas cm 116 121 126 Mesure aux hanches/Contor 100 105 110 97 94 92 D pierna cm 49∞ Ins. A, B, C, 71 69 jambe/Ancho, cada 68 43∞ 45∞ 47∞ 67 66 Largeur, chaque 64 cm 63 76 62 75 61 74 72 71 A 70 cm 69 58 67 57 66 55 54 53 B 52 cm 50 56 49 55 48 54 52 51 C 50 48 47 la cintura 46 del costado desde D cm 38 38 taille à l’ourlet/Largo 38 38 38 Longueur - côté, 38 cm 38 38 38 107 107 107 A 107 107 107 cm 81 81 107 107 107 81 81 81 B 81 cm 81 99 81 99 81 99 99 99 C 99 99 99 o Sin Pelillo 99 D

LS47 23 Reader Reviewv2.indd 23

14/11/2017 14:14

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23

M7415

MEASUREMENTS FINISHED GARMENT hipline Measurement at 41∞ 39∞ 38 37 36 A, B, C, D Width, each leg 25≤ 25≥ 23≥ 24≤ 24≥ A 27∞ 28 26∞ 27 26 B 20≤ 20≥ 18≥ 19≤ 19≥ C 19∞ 20 18∞ 19 18 D waist Side length from 14≥ 14≥ 14≥ 14≥ 14≥ A 42 42 42 42 42 B 32 32 32 32 32 C 39 39 39 39 39 D

27≥ 26≤ 26≥ 27≤ 29∞ 30 28∞ 29 22≥ 21≤ 21≥ 22≤ 21∞ 22 20∞ 21 14≥ 14≥ 42 42 32 32 39 39

14≥ 42 32 39

" " " "

www.instagram.com/houseofpinheiro **Sin Pelillo ***Con Sens *Con Pelillo Sens ***Avec ou Sans *Avec Sens **Sans

Nap Nap ***With or Without *With Nap **Without

D B B

C-D

A-B

Off. Marca Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Printed in U.S.A. Trademarks .com 10271, All Rights Reserved. purposes. www.mccallpattern Broadway, New York commercial or manufacturing McCall Pattern Co., 120 strictement interdite. use only and not for commerciale ou industrielle Sold for individual home personnel. Utilisation Reserve à un usage

Registrada

LATÉRALES AVEC PANTALON SANS COUTURES DE PATRON DE LA MÉTHODE D’JAUSTAGE INSTRUCTIONS D’AJUSTAGE PALMER/PLETSCH. DES SUR LE FEUILLET. DE PALMER/PLETSCH SONT TOUTES LES TAILLES DANS LA MÊME POCHETTE. LATERALES PANTALÓN SIN COSTURAS DE PATRÓN ENTALLE CON EL MÉTODO DE INSTRUCCIONES DE DE PALMER/PLETSCH. H EN LA GUÍA. ENTALLE DE PALMER/PLETSC EN UN SOLO SOBRE. TODAS LAS TALLAS

M7415

SCH FEATURING THE PALMER/PLET PALMER/ TISSUE-FITTING METHOD. IN GUIDE. PLETSCH FIT INSTRUCTIONS ALL SIZES IN ONE ENVELOPE.

In issue 48 Jenny Spratley reviews

THE NO-SIDE-SEAM PANTS

(6-22)

M7415

Size Taille Talla

C A METHOD TISSUE FITTING

D DEL CUERPO 22 20 S/MESURES/MEDIDAS 18 16 14 12 10 BODY MEASUREMENT 8 44 Ins. 6 42 40 38 ALLAS 36 SIZES/TAILLES/T 37 Ins. 34 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 34 32 30 26∞ 28 25 Bust 46 Ins. 24 44 23 42 40 38 Waist 17≤ 17∞ Ins. 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 36 17 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ Hip 15∞ 15≥ 16 Back Waist Length 102 107 112 cm 97 92 87 83 94 cm 80 87 77 81 76 71 67 64 Poitrine/Busto 117 cm 61 58 102 107 112 97 92 88 Taille/Cintura 44.5 cm 85 44 83 42.5 43 40.5 41.5 42 Hanches/Caderas espalda 39.5 40 Longueur dos/Largo

M7415

Say hi to Rachel at I love wearing big collars because they can easily be wrapped up to protect from the chilly winds. However this coat has an even cooler feature – the front pocket forms from the princess seam and I knew I just had to highlight it with leather piping. My special addition to the coat is the cosy pockets that I have lined with shearing! Little things that makes us happy right? No cold hands This coat has so many unique features I felt the best way to highlight them was to use colour blocking. I coloured in the line drawing to pick where each fabric should go, which helped me visualise the final result. The overall shape is loose fitting with drop shoulders so it's perfect to layer over woolly jumpers. The pattern narrows on the hips so my tip is to use your hip measurement to pick a size. his time last year I enjoyed a visit to McCall’s New York head offices. While there I was allowed to play dress up in the patternsample closet! One of the garments that caught my eye wasn’t even officially released but I was given permission to share a sneak preview of Lisette B6423; It’s not every day you get a chance to try a pattern before you actually sew it! The fit and colour of the sample really suited me so I knew I would have to sew this pattern one day, and I’m delighted to have sewn it now to share this experience with you.

YELLOW MAGENTA

CYAN BLACK

I love making coats. They have a reputation of being hard to sew but I actually think they are pretty quick and very customisable. I’m so happy with the finished result! The sewing was straightforward with exception of the lining construction steps around the pleat. The pattern has you sewing a lot by hand instead of bagging the lining. The reason is that this pattern was drafted for thick fabric so the construction, although really odd at first, is meant to help with distribution of bulk. I have interfaced the whole front, hems and added a stabiliser on the pockets. And instead of one button I used two handbag clasps. I sewed size M without fit alterations, although I did shorten the sleeves slightly because I like the sleeves on loose-fitting coats a tad shorter so the layers underneath can show. That was more of a personal styling choice as the original length would be perfect. for me next time I leave my gloves at home!

Rachel the fabulous blogger behind www.houseofpinheiro.com shares her thoughts on this issue’s Lisette free gift

view eader Re6423 RButterick

The Dressmaker's With Elisalex

hen it comes to trends, I think sewists are often quite divided. Some use their sewing as a way of creating catwalk looks at a fraction of the price, interpreting the looks to suit their own aesthetic. Others I think actively reject mainstream fashion, instead finding inspiration elsewhere – film and social media communities for example – and opting to focus on a me-made wardrobe that is classic, timeless and entirely personal.

DIARY Sew the latest winter trends with ease using Elisalex's top tips

Elisalex made this hack of the By Hand London Sarah shirt in Rifle Paper Co rayon

I’d say I fall somewhere in the middle of the two… I have a fairly clear idea as to what I like to wear, and I’d definitely say that I fall into the ‘classic and timeless’ style bracket (or at least I’d like to think so!). I’m very inspired by movies old and not-soold, as well as the incredible array of women I follow on Instagram and people I see out and about and on my travels. But even so, things can get a little stale from time to time. What I love about mainstream fashion is that every season you’re guaranteed a fresh injection of unexpected inspiration to pick and choose from as you please. And that’s just the beauty of sewing – while I’m not in a position to fork out for the latest designer must haves, nor am I willing to throw my pennies at fast fashion imitations without really knowing if it’s a look that will really suit me and complement my lifestyle, the fact that I can sew means that I get to experiment with new trends I’m drawn to before committing (or rejecting) them to my style roster.

24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 pp24 Dressmakers.indd 24

14/11/2017 10:38

Red & Western! Try the Lander pattern by True Bias $18 (£14) paper and $14 (£11) PDF from shop.truebias.com

KEY TRENDS FOR WINTER 2017/18 Don’t be put off by the risk that you’ll end up with something that doesn’t work for you! Approach new trends in the same way you would a pattern you’d never sewn before: make a wearable toile that you can road test first. You'll get an idea as to how this new look makes you feel, if it fits in with the rest of your wardrobe and what you might tweak or adapt next time around. And if it’s a total bust, at least you know for sure that one shoulder tops are as hideous as they are pointless (I'm speaking for myself here)! SUITING No doubt most of us will be left counting the pennies after the festive splurge, so I say forget splashing out on expensive fabric and heritage wool and get down to your local charity shop instead! They will probably be bursting at the seams with oversized, under-priced and often good-quality men's suits, there for the refashioning and reimagining. Check out www.makery.uk for inspiration and join in with #theRefashioners! CORNFLOWER BLUE Dreamy, and universally flattering, this has to be one of my favourite hues of all time. Go top to toe à la the red trend (see right), or team it with black to cut through the sweetness. I’m rather obsessed with the Merino jersey on offer at The Fabric Store right now, and luckily there is the perfect shade.

Dreamy cornflower blue gives a vintage feel © Roksanda, London

The Grainline Tamarack is the ultimate quilted jacket QUILT CHIC Now this is a winter trend I can really get on board with. Cosy and cool? Sign me up! The great thing about this one is that you can really spin it any which way you like, be it luxe, folk or utilitarian – it all just boils down to your choice of fabric. I for one have my sights set on a boxy kimono jacket made from a vintage patchwork quilt. How amazing would that be? Make sure you pick a pattern that isn’t too fitted and will lend itself well to showing off the quilted the True Bias Lander Pants. Look for fabric in all its glory. The Tamarack vintage western shirt patterns, folk by Grainline is ideal, as would embroidery designs and floaty be a kimono or even an floral rayon like the Rifle A-line skirt. Search for Paper Co. collections for pre-quilted fabric, or Cotton+Steel. prepare your own using the detailed Keep a look out for THE BELT Tamarack sew-along vintage patterns with Belted waists are back! as a guide at www. Western yokes, classic This is good news in my grainlinestudio.com book; I always look more tailoring or chic balanced with a cinched RED quilted elements! waist. And the beauty is that I love love love this look, they go over everything, whether it's chic and powerful and it’s an already fitted dress, the with just the right dose of 80s perennial sack dress or even an oversized thrown in for good measure. The key jumper, transforming and pulling together to nailing this one – and indeed any an otherwise slouchy or unfinished look. one-colour-all-over look – is texture. Even better, you get to adjust them as the Identify the shades of red that suit you meal goes on! I have a few great vintage best, and then look to clash different belts, but now I really want to make my fibres and fabric within one outfit. own using The Leather School’s (www. For example, red silk shirt, red wool leatherschool.co.uk) handy DIY belt kits. trousers, red patent leather boots and red faux fur overcoat – you get my drift. I’m salivating right now.

Top tip!

70s WESTERN This is essentially an amalgamation of trends (70s, folk, corduroy, embroidery, embellishment and plaid) to create one supertrend that may or may not go the distance due to its very distinct, borderline dress-up quality. Either way, and maybe just because I’m a massive George Jones fan, I’m game. Wide-legged trousers are a must – try

LS47 pp24 Dressmakers.indd 25

ABOUT ELISALEX Elisalex de Castro Peake is the head of design and co-founder of By Hand London. An independent pattern company, it produces gorgeously designed, high-quality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site www.byhandlondon.com

14/11/2017 10:38

Yes! I would like to subscribe to

and SAVE over £28 a year on the cover price

Please complete in ballpoint pen and send to: Love Sewing, Tower House, Sovereign Park, Market Harborough, Leicestershire LE16 9EF

Quote code: PLSEN117

Your details TITLE: .......... FORENAME:.......................................................................................... SURNAME: ................................................................................................................... ADDRESS: .....................................................................................................................

Love Sewing is packed with tips, tricks and clever ideas to keep you inspired month after month. Every issue includes a stunning free paper pattern from The McCall Pattern Company, the best tutorials from industry experts plus exciting projects and inspiring articles. Whether you’re making unique garments, chic homeware and accessories, or fun embroidery projects, Love Sewing is the perfect addition to your sewing room.

.................................................................................... POSTCODE: ........................... DAYTIME TELEPHONE: ............................................................................................. MOBILE TELEPHONE: ............................................................................................... EMAIL: ........................................................................................................................... To give a subscription as a gift, please complete the section above and supply the recipient’s address details on a separate sheet.

DIRECT DEBIT @ £24.99 EVERY SIX MONTHS BEST PRICE! SAVE 36%

Instruction to your Bank or Building Society to pay by Direct Debit Name and full postal address of your Bank or Building Society:

To: The Manager

Bank/Building Society

Address

Postcode

Exclusive designs from The McCall Pattern Company with every issue

Name(s) of Account Holder(s)

Branch sort code

Bank/Building Society account number

■■ ■ ■ ■ ■

■■■■■■ ■ ■ ■

Office use only Reference

10 REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE:

Originator’s Identification Number 4 3 9 3 4 5

■■■■■■

Signature

Date

Please pay Practical Publishing Int Ltd Direct Debits from the account detailed in this instruction subject to safeguards assured by the Direct Debit Guarantee. I understand that this instruction may remain with Practical Publishing Int Ltd and, if so, details will be passed electronically to my Bank/Building society. Bank and Building Societies may not accept Direct Debit instructions for some accounts.

13 ISSUES FOR £49.99 – CHEQUE/ POSTAL ORDER/DEBIT/CREDIT CARD

1 2 3 4 5

I enclose a cheque/postal order made payable to Practical Publishing International Ltd OR please debit my Visa/Mastercard/Maestro (delete as appropriate)

CARD NUMBER

EXPIRY DATE

ISSUE NUMBER (if Maestro)

SIGNATURE:....................................................................................DATE:......................... *Your Direct Debit will be just £24.99 every 6 months. Not sure if Love Sewing is for you? We’ll refund you for any unmailed issues should you wish to cancel at any time. Offer applies to UK customers only. For overseas rates please visit www.moremags.com/subscriptions. New subscriptions start at the next available issue. Hurry, offer expires 28/12/2017. I DO want Practical Publishing Int Ltd to contact me by email telephone post Tick this box if you do wish to receive promotional material from carefully selected third-party companies

LS47.P26 Subs.indd 26

8 9 10

SAVE money on every issue FREE delivery direct to your door NEVER miss an issue BE THE FIRST to read Love Sewing FREE pattern worth over £8 from The McCall Pattern company with every issue Exclusive promise to offer BRANDED PATTERNS in the widest size range The BEST tutorials and projects from industry experts including Wendy Gardiner and Alison Smith MBE BUILD your ultimate pattern collection NEVER be short of sewing inspiration again SPREAD the COST with a Direct Debit

14/11/2017 16:07

SAVE OVER £28

a year when you subscribe to

13 issues for less than the price of 9! Love Sewing is fresh, fun and full of fabulous projects and guides to keep you inspired for months to come. Leading the way with a broad range of styles and ideas, Love Sewing will help you make your very own unique garments, chic gorgeous homeware accessories and a multitude of projects for children, all with the help of our experienced and passionate Design Team.

Pay just £24.99 every 6 months...

Online: www.practicalsubs.com/2588 Call: 01858 438899 (QUOTE CODE: PLSEN117) Hurry this offer expires 28/12/2017. LS47.P26 Subs.indd 27

14/11/2017 16:07

Sewing room

SWOON We chat to master textile artist Emma Giacalone to find out her top tips and what inspires her Hi Emma! Can you tell our readers a little bit about yourself? Hello everyone. I create freehand machine embroidery and raw-edge appliqué artwork based on my own sketches, which I sell in my online shop. I make pictures depicting quite a varied subject range, but particularly enjoy creating landscape and seascape pictures and love working in pretty prints. What is on your sewing table right now? I always have a few projects in progress at any time – sometimes it helps being able to step away from a picture, but mostly it's just because I have too many ideas! I usually have commission work in progress – at the moment a picture of a garden for a 70th birthday present and a wedding venue portrait, but I always try to keep a 'me-make' close to hand as

well, right now that's adding hot-air balloons to a large Bristol street scene. You have quite an unusual sewing space, how did you choose it? Before I moved in to my current workshop, I had been steadily taking over my house with fabric and sewing paraphernalia. Some room became available (which just happens to be a chicken shed) in my husband’s work and I think he was quite taken by the idea of getting some space back at home!

Often the unplanned stitches can become the parts of pictures that work out best

How do you take a design from sketch to stitch? Initially I will make a number of sketches on paper until I'm happy with the way I'd like a design to look, then the process is essentially like a collage, building up colours and textures with scraps of material, and then stitching them down. Sometimes I use a FriXion pen as a guide, but as I've become more confident more often I just go freehand, it's quite a forgiving technique and often unplanned stitches can become the parts of pictures that work out best.

ABOUT

Emma Giacolone We love this minie! sewing room scen

Check out Emma’s latest works and visit the blog at emmagiacalone.com and stay in touch by following www.instagram.com/ emma_giacalone_textiles

28 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 Sewing Room Swoon.indd 28

14/11/2017 16:21

Which fabric are you enjoying sewing with? My favourites are always Liberty lawns, they look beautiful and are a dream to work with – especially for raw-edge appliqué as they don't really fray. I could never choose a favourite pattern but definitely have a shortlist! There is usually at least a small scrap in each of my pictures.

would have to be them. And of course my trusty Janome DM3000 sewing machine which I couldn't live without.

I have a favourite pair of curved tip embroidery scissors that make cutting shapes a breeze

What are your top tips for successful machine embroidery? I think the main thing is practice – the more you do it, the more you will get to know your machine and what feels comfortable for you and develop your own style. I also think you need to find a technique that works best for you – I don't use a foot or hoop when I work as I find this allows me to be more accurate and neater.

Which sewing tool could you not live without? Because I usually cut fabric away after I've stitched it, to neaten the design I have a favourite pair of curved tip embroidery scissors that make cutting away loose thread and awkward shapes a breeze, so it

LS47 Sewing Room Swoon.indd 29

What is the best and the most challenging thing about working for yourself? I feel so fortunate to have a job doing something I completely love, so that has to be the best part of working for myself. The hardest part is probably the fact that it's just me, so I can feel quite isolated. Luckily online communities – I particularly like Instagram – can be really supportive and so there's always virtual company and support.

What can we expect to see over the next few months? I have so many sketches waiting to be made in to pictures that there's quite a list! But at the top are always landscape/buildings pictures. I also have plans to add to my sewing room picture, and increase the range of sewing-themed pictures I have available.

14/11/2017 16:21

We love

BAGS

Because I'm

HOPPY

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 60cm 115cm-wide cotton â&#x20AC;˘ 60cm 115cm-wide contrast cotton for piping â&#x20AC;˘ 80cm 115cm-wide lining â&#x20AC;˘ 1.4m 51cm-wide medium-weight fusible interfacing (Interfacing 1) â&#x20AC;˘ 40cm 150cm-wide mediumweight sew-in interfacing (Interfacing 2) â&#x20AC;˘ 50cm 51cm-wide craft-weight interfacing (Interfacing 3) â&#x20AC;˘ 1.9m 5mm-wide piping cord â&#x20AC;˘ 30cm zip for interior â&#x20AC;˘ 102cm double-pull handbag zip for exterior â&#x20AC;˘ co-ordinating thread â&#x20AC;˘ templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES:

Keep your lotions and potions safely together when you travel with this clever case from Sarah of Sew Sweetness for McCallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Project SARAH LAWSON Sew Sweetness

The finished case measures 13cm (h) x 15cm (d) x 21cm (w) Seam allowances are 13mm unless otherwise stated

CUTTING: Please refer to the cutting layouts included on the pattern pieces for main fabric, lining, piping and interfacing 1, 2 and 3.

HOW TO MAKE: Turn the seam allowance on the handle ends to the inside and press. Turn the long sides of the handle to the inside along the outer fold line and press. Fold the handle along remaining fold line with WST and press. Top-stitch close to the edges. Pin the handle to what will be the top, following the placement lines. Sew close to the ends then again 6mm away. Fold a piping strip in half RST. Place the piping cord at the fold and use a zip foot to sew close to the cord. Install piping on top and bottom pieces (see page 31).

If necessary shorten the inner zip â&#x20AC;&#x201C; first whip-stitch across the teeth and then cut away the excess. Repeat at both ends if needed. Cut out sections from the end fabric pieces. Turn 6mm on one end of each end section to the inside and press. Pin end sections to the front and back of upper and lower end of the inner zip, with raw edges even and pressed edges towards zip centre. Move the zip pull away from pressed edges and baste ends in place. Sew close to the pressed edges. Trim the upper

and lower edges of the end sections even with the zip sides if necessary. Pin the zip face down over one upper section, ensuring the lower edges are even, and baste. Pin the remaining upper section to the upper section with the zip, RST. Sew along the lower edge in a 6mm seam using a zip foot. (See Pic A.) Turn the upper section RS out and baste raw edges together. Edge-stitch the lower edge of upper section. Apply the opposite side of the zip with end sections to the upper edge of the lower sections in the same way as the upper sections.

For the top lining, pin the pocket with zip RS up over one of the top and bottom lining sections with raw edges even. Trim the exterior zip to 62cm, trimming the ends. Whip-stitch across the teeth at each end to prevent the zipper head coming off the tape. Pin one end of the tab to the lower end of the exterior zip with RST and baste the end. Pin one end of the tab lining to the lower end of the zip with tabs RST. Sew a 6mm seam. Turn RS out and press. Edgestitch the tab along the seam. Apply the remaining end of the tab and tab lining to the

30 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

30 bagv2.indd 30

14/11/2017 10:15

Top tip

MASTERCLASS

PIPING

Take care to transfer all the pattern markings to the fabric! Try an air-erasable marker or water-soluble fabric pencil

Pin one piece of piping to the top, placing ridge of cord just inside the seam allowance and overlapping the ends at the square pattern marking. Remove a few stitches from each end of the piping. Open out to expose the cords, trim the ends of cord until then meet and whipstitch together.

Turn under the raw edge of one end of the piping fabric, lap the remaining end and recover the cord. Baste, using a zip foot.

opposite end of the zip in the same way, creating a zip ring. If necessary, trim the long edges of the tab even with zip sides. Trim 13mm from one end of Interfacing 2 for the tab. Trim 1cm from long edges. Insert the interfacing between tab and lining and baste edges together. Sew side sections together at the centre back. Repeat for side lining sections. Pin the zip with tab face down over the side section, with lower edges even and seam at the tab centre. Baste using a zip foot. (See Pic B.) Pin the lining to the side over the zip RS, matching seams. Sew along the lower edge with a 6mm seam. Turn RS out. Press. Baste raw edges together. Top-stitch the lower edge

of the side 3mm from the edge. (See Pic C.) Sew the pocket sections together at the upper edge with a 6mm seam. Turn RS out and press. Baste raw edges together. Edge-stitch upper edge of the pocket. (See Pic D.) Pin pocket to side lining with ends and bottom edges even. Baste raw edges together and sew on the stitching lines. Sew side lining together at the centre back. Repeat for the side sections. Apply opposite side of zip and tab to the upper edge of the side and side lining in the same way as the side. Staystitch upper and lower edges of side sections. With RST pin the top to the upper edges of the side, placing the centre back seam

at the square and centre front at the large circle. (See Pic E.) Clip where needed. Sew, easing fullness where necessary. Do not trim the seam allowances. Open zip and pin the top lining to the top with RST, matching the symbols. Sew in place, leaving the back edge open between the small circles for turning. (See Pic F.) Trim seam allowances to 6mm. Turn RS out, turning under remaining seam allowances. Press. Apply bottom and bottom lining to the lower edge of side in the same way as the top. Trim away the seam allowance on each Interfacing 3 piece for the top and bottom. Insert into the top and bottom. Sew the pressed edges over the seam. Turn RS out and press.

ABOUT THE PATTERN

Adapted from McCall's 7487. Browse and buy any McCall's accessories or craft pattern at www.sewdirect.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 31

30 bagv2.indd 31

14/11/2017 10:15

LS47.P32.indd 32

09/11/2017 12:51

MACHINE

REVIEW

This month we take a look at the lovely range Husqvarna Viking offers!

BEST FOR PRACTICAL FEATURES HUSQVARNA EMERALD 116 The Emerald 116 has many practical features. It’s exclusively designed for the seamstress or home sewist and comes with a host of great features and benefits. The built-in needle threader, automatic one-step buttonhole and a handy sewing guide reference chart make this an impressive machine at an affordable price. A hard cover for storage and a built-in handle means you can take it out and about with you.

Lorna R UNDE

£300 BEST FOR TECHNICAL AND TRADITIONAL

UNDER

£750

Bethany

HUSQVARNA OPAL 650 The Opal 650 uses modern technology to make your sewing experience a more pleasant one. It features many built-in functions such as fonts and up to 160 patterns. It offers 8” of sewing space and has a large-screen display so you can view and choose your designs with ease. The handy sewing advisor offers assistance on selecting different stitches and tailoring settings to certain fabric.

BEST FOR BIG PROJECTS HUSQVARNA SAPPHIRE 930 The Sapphire 930 will make your bigger projects run much more smoothly. It has more than 200 stitches and glides effortlessly through bulky materials. The sensor system ensures your stitches will always be accurate as it senses the thickness of the fabric. It features a large touchscreen panel so you can easily navigate through the stitches and the dual lighting provides all the illumination you need to sew into the wee hours.

Amy FR

£1,4OM 00 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33

LS47 machine review.indd 33

14/11/2017 11:38

PATTERN

Turn up

THE HEAT The weather may be getting colder but we have six hot looks for you to try – all available from Sewing Belle

Blue beauty The gorgeous Martha dress is both modest and flattering with 60s collar and three-quarter length sleeves. It's available in sizes UK 6-20, priced £12.50 – you're in great hands with Tilly and The Buttons!

SAVE

25% on EVERYTHING with code LOVESEW47*

Double delight

We love a co-ordiniating set! This Mimi G design for Simplicity offers two gorgeous garments that will help you pile on the layers without feeling frumpy. S8451 is available in sizes 6-14 and 14-22, priced £4.95.

cember w.sewingbelle.co.uk before 31st De ww g itin vis by nt cou dis r you aim *Cl 7 to SAVE 25% at checkout and entering the code LOVESEW4

LS42 pp36 pattern picks v2.indd 34

14/11/2017 10:32

Instant outfit Who doesn't want to look like a chic French woman? Deer and Doe can help your wish come true. Make the Mélilot shirt in cotton or silk and the Brume skirt in jersey. Both are available in sizes EU 34-46, priced £15.

White hot

This eye-catching peplum definitely makes a statement and would be a great partywear piece! McCall's 7356 is available in sizes 6-14 and 14-22, priced £4.95.

Suits you This is the ultimate pattern pack for the stylish male sewist. Make a classic peacoat or jacket and a pair of tapered tailored trousers. This pattern is available in sizes 34-40 and 40-46, priced £7.50.

Pretty in pink This dress is a sheer delight! The plus-size design by Ashley Nell Tipton for Simplicity 8471 is available in sizes 18W-26W and 26W-34W, priced £4.95.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 35

LS42 pp36 pattern picks v2.indd 35

14/11/2017 10:33

The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most innovative fabrics

Linton Tweeds design and weave luxury fabrics for the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most exclusive fashion houses See our website for the Linton Direct collection Use discount code

lovesewing10

www.lintondirect.co.uk 36 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47.P36.indd 36

09/11/2017 14:20

FABRIC Embroidered PU jacket Denim skirt project, issue 23 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk ÂŁ60 www.jdwilliams.co.uk

Denim

DAZE

We love these eyecatching prints, perfect for a wide range of projects

Zip up,

LOOK SHARP

Personalise this spring-summer biker jacket with our pick of sturdy yet stylish fabric 3 3

4 4

SAVE

10%

mpany with at The Denim Co *. Visit www. the code LS10 pany.co.uk m co thedenim age of this to take advant ount sc di t grea

5 5

6 6

Fabric shopping shopping Fabric Copper Eco leatherette, ÂŁ15 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk Cognac 0.55mm-thick leather skin, ÂŁ17 Aggie light, medium-weight denim, ÂŁ14 per metre Tess light, medium-weight denim, ÂŁ14 per metre Darcy dark, per 5ft square www.pittards.com Burgundy leatherette, ÂŁ6 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk Mama medium-weight denim, ÂŁ14 per metre Polly light, lightweight polycotton denim, ÂŁ10 per metre Star Light, mediumpink 0.7mm-thick leather skin, ÂŁ17 per 5ft square www.pittards.com Spot print mid-blue denim, ÂŁ8.99 per metre www. weight denim, ÂŁ14 per metre Dot black, medium-weight denim, ÂŁ14 per metre abakhan.co.uk Shell pink soft faux suede, ÂŁ9.80 per metre www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk All fabric is available at www.thedenimcompany.co.uk *Offer expires 22/12/17

LS47 denim Fabric focus v2.indd 37

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 37

14/11/2017 10:49

ASK THE EXPERTS

THRIFTY

STITCHER Claire-Louise Hardie takes us behind the scenes at Coronation Street to share the journey of a costume from brief to location!

ou may not know that my training and professional background is in costume for stage and screen. I’ve been blessed to have had a long career working with many prestigious theatre companies, and recently I’ve had some exciting TV and film work come my way too. Few people realise just how much work goes into even a one-minute advert; for example the Craft of Coronation Street ITV promotional video I recently worked on was very involved but very rewarding. It’s a fascinating journey and each costume will pass across many hands and eyes on its way to being realised.

THE BRIEF

It all starts with the Director, who will usually choose the Costume Designer once the Producer has briefed them on the project. In fact it’s often the Director who brings in the entire creative team including the Director of Photography, Art Director and Set and Costume Designers.

DESIGN PROCESS

Costume designs may be beautifully detailed sketches, or there may simply be a mood board of references if lead-time is short. For the Coronation Street promo, Costume Designer Michelle May (whose work includes several iconic Christmas ads over the last few years for a certain department store) created a colour palette and mood board of original references of actual crew from behind the scenes whilst filming Corrie. There was a specific scene we were to recreate, and I was commissioned to copy two character outfits; an ‘Elsie Tanner’ dress along with a 1970s ‘Hilda Ogden’ coat dress. Once the brief is locked down with Producers., the Costume Designer will put their team in place, and this could be a team of one or two, up to hundreds if the project is a film. Teams are made up of many specialists and will usually start with a supervisor and include Pattern Cutters, Makers, Dyers, Breakdown Artists, Costumiers, Costume Hire Departments, Buyers and Costume Standbys or Dressers. Before anything else is done the Costume Designer and

Supervisor do a script breakdown. This process is done for theatre and TV/film and is roughly as follows: • How many days does the story cover? Some plays or scripts occur in a single day, others over long periods of time. It’s essential to know the number of story days. • What period is the piece set in? It may span multiple time periods, which will significantly affect the budget for costume. • Which seasons does the script cover? At what time of day do scenes occur? For example, it may start as a winter morning, and end up in the evening. Seasonality affects the type of clothes worn. • Are the characters male or female? Are there any children? Note the ages of each character. • What social class does each character fall into? This is particularly important for historical costume as research into working-class dress is very different to that worn by the wealthy. • Make a note of weather conditions in each scene. If it’s raining this affects costume, as does hot weather. • Analyse the location of each scene. A Victorian piece set in London will be dressed very differently to a Victorian piece set in colonial India.

The original scene The recreation in 2017

38 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

38 Thrifty stitcher.indd 38

14/11/2017 17:28

sew smart

Inside the costume truck have to be ‘pulled’, which means days of climbing ladders, measuring garments and assigning characters. The team doing the pulling will need to have some costume history knowledge to ensure a 1970s shoe isn’t put in a 1960s shot.

RESEARCH Once the script breakdowns are complete, the designer and supervisor will get into serious research mode. This includes social research, for example deciding which indie band T-shirt a character in the 1990s scene of Craft of Coronation Street was likely to wear. Pattern Cutters and Makers will also do their own research; fastenings etc are really important, as are seamlines and hemlines. For the Hilda Ogden dress I looked at home sewing patterns from the era, as well as online digital magazines from the year we were recreating. For a historical piece I might use four or five fashion history books and visit galleries to look at paintings of the era.

SOURCING COSTUMES Once the looks or designs are approved, it’s on to sourcing the clothes, shoes and accessories. This may be from London costume houses like Angels, or Academy Costumes who specialises in historical costumes, or from Media City in Manchester if filming is to occur there. Since there were over 60 people to dress on Craft of Coronation Street, the Designer used some of her own stock too, plus items were bought and altered from vintage stores, as well as three pieces being made from scratch. All the costume hire pieces

ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier. We recommend Claire-Louise's latest course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced at £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk

GUIDE

For the makes, it was essential to swatch fabric all the options and seek approval. Since the piece was relatively modern, I was able to use regular fabric stores, however for an 18th century project I recently worked on, fabric was sourced from a specialist supplier who has original historical cloth and historical prints that have been re-woven! Often cloth is bought, then dyed and worked onto by specialist dyer/printers.

SHOOT DAYS OR SETTING UP IN A THEATRE You might think going out on location is glamorous, but sadly that isn’t usually the case. Most British theatres feature lots of stairs and cramped dressing rooms/ wing space. When filming there’s usually a base location, which could be a deserted building near the shoot that masks the glamour that happens inside. On a filming day, there is usually a costume truck that needs to be set up by the costume crew ahead of time so there’s a lot of logistics and planning involved and you have to be prepared for anything. You may need to use the costumer’s friend – Dirty Down spray – to age something on set, or provide hand warmers and blankets for freezing artists. For stage production however, all the breaking down or ageing needs to be done so it is washable, and this happens once a costume is made, before it arrives at the theatre. How the actors are dressed is just as important as getting all the research right – no one wants to see a cravat on back to front! On sets the people who dress the actors are called standbys and they will remain with the actor between shots to maintain continuity. This is especially important when the same day from a story is shot on different days, or even in different locations months apart. In theatre productions they are called Dressers, and will also choreograph any quick changes the actor may need to do during the production. Once the production is over, the crew will pack costumes to be returned or discarded, and usually take a goofy shot with the actors in costume! I hope you've enjoyed this peek behind the scenes.

The finished dress

The Coat Dress mood board www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 39

38 Thrifty stitcher.indd 39

14/11/2017 17:29

EXCLUSIVE PATTERNS TO START TONIGHT! THE BEST NEW YARN & PATTERNS

from your favourite brands

Designs for all levels Quick makes and gift ideas Step-by-step guides to help you Festive designs for children

Fun makes for your home

Plus exclusive Tracy Coldwell yarn kit FREE!* *Print editions only

ISSUE 22 ON SALE NOW

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/cn22

LS47.P40.indd 40

14/11/2017 11:51

WIN WORTH OVER

A FABRIC BUNDLE FROM FABRICS FOR SALE!

£300!

Love Sewing readers rejoice! This month we’ve partnered up with the wonderful team at Fabrics For Sale to offer one lucky reader a selection of fabric worth over £300! Whether you’re an avid dressmaker, upholstery enthusiast or craft extraordinaire you’ll have a choice of almost 30 metres of beautiful fabric to choose from. In the bundle you’ll find a selection of vibrant Liberty fabric, beautiful silk crepe, non-stretch denim, cobalt-blue wool and much more! For more inspiration you can visit the Fabrics For Sale website, which showcases an array of high-quality fabric from around the world to suit every sewist’s needs. This newly established online retailer prides itself on providing customers with the latest cuttingedge fabric and has recently introduced a pattern and sewing kits range to help you create beautiful designs with ease.

Enter today

to For an excellent selection of fabric, go www.fabricsforsale.co.uk or book search for Fabrics For Sale on Face and Instagram

Visit www.ppjump.com/ lovesewing47 to enter this competition and our other giveaways featured this month. Closing date 4th January 2017 Winners will be notified by email. Competition open to UK residents only

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 41

LS47.P41.indd 41

14/11/2017 10:18

Follow the fabulous blogger tour, chat with your favourite sewists and see pattern reviews at www.thefoldline.com/blog

The cocktail hour

SEW-ALONG Have you joined in with The Cocktail Hour yet? It’s a fun opportunity for sewists to come together and ‘sip and sew’! We’re thrilled to have Rachel and Kate from The Fold Line to share all the news from the fun blogger tour. So, who’s been sewing some DIY glamour this month?

Jen Walker

Ginger Thread Girl

ABOUT

THE COCKTAIL HOUR

n March, The McCall Pattern Company in the UK chose 20 of its most popular Vogue patterns perfect for wearing while sipping cocktails. A contribution from every pattern sold in the inspirational edit will go towards supporting The Eve Appeal charity. Find out how to take part, plus read all about upcoming events at www.sewdirect.com

Jen decided to make Vogue 1484 by the infamous Zandra Rhodes because she loved the collar and shirtdress feel to the pattern. It is a lined dress with yoke, princess seams, bias sleeves and slightly pointed hem with invisible zipper. The clever construction of this dress comes from mixing multiple fabric types in one design, meaning the options are endless for creating unique versions. Jen made the dress using a crepe-backed satin for the main pieces and sheer chiffon for the yoke. She made a toile and altered the yoke and bodice. Jen found the trickiest bit was inserting the sleeves and adding the binding. It was worth all the effort though because it's a sensation!! www.gingerthreadgirl.co.uk/dresses/ the-cocktail-hour-with-mccalls-theeve-appeal

Kate and Rachel say:

What better way to get inspiration for your own cocktail dress than to see what your favourite sewing bloggers are making? There is a fun-packed year with bloggers taking it in turns to make one of the 20 patterns and each month we will be sharing their amazing outfits with you. This month it was the turn of Jane Marland, Jen Walker and Marie Koupparis!

42 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS45 p42 cocktail hourv2.indd 42

14/11/2017 10:25

Jane Marland

Handmade Jane

Jane chose to make Vogue 1536, a twopiece pattern pack by designers Tom and Linda Platt. Included is a V-neck, princess-seamed dress with co-ordinating cropped jacket featuring shawl collar, flared sleeves and dipped back hem. Jane decided to make just the dress this time around and used a gorgeous navy Italian wool crepe with navy shantung satin for the lining. Since this was a more expensive special-occasion fabric she made a muslin in a size smaller than she would normally do to check the fit and just did a couple of minor alterations such as using the included petite shortening lines at the waist to achieve the length she needed. The shantung satin adds structure and weight to the dress and Jane says it feels very luxurious to wear â&#x20AC;&#x201C; exactly what you want from a cocktail dress. It's a really classic shape, without being too fitted and Jane looks fabulous! www.handmadejane. co.uk/2017/10/its-cocktailhour.html

Marie Koupparis

A Stitching Odyssey Marie opted for Vogue 8997, a Very Easy Vogue design for a lined princess-seamed dress with fitted bodice, raised waist and back zipper. There are multiple sleeve and skirt options to choose from within the pattern pack. Inspired by this year's sew-along theme, she found the perfect fabric for this, a cocktail-print cotton lawn!

Marie made a few changes to the pattern to suit her fabric, including adjusting the waist seam and increasing the fullness of the skirt without the princess seams so as not to break up the fabulous print too much. Marie said it was a difficult decision to hack the pattern but it was the right way to go. She used the included multi-cup option to pick the bodice size she needed and then made minor fitting amends from there. This result is great and was made for #sipandsew! www.astitchingodyssey. com/2017/11/cocktail-hourdress.html

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 43

LS45 p42 cocktail hourv2.indd 43

14/11/2017 10:26

We love

QUILTS

Building

BLOCKS Use a jelly roll of pre-cut 2½” strips to whip up this simple but effective design Project CAROLYN FORSTER

MATERIALS & TOOLS • jelly roll (or 40 2½” x WOF strips of fabric) • 40” square thin cotton wadding • 1m backing fabric (for a 40”-square piece) • co-ordinating thread • template plastic or cardboard • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Finished size: 36" square A 5mm seam allowance is included WOF – width of fabric

Top tip

Splitting your fabric into light and dark shades is key to getting the best from this design

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Trace the template onto template plastic or cardboard. A cereal box is perfect for this! 2 Unroll the jelly roll, reserve four of the strips for binding later and split the rest of the fabric into two piles of lighter and darker fabric. The easiest way to do this if some strips seem quite similar is to take two at once and squint at them, or take a photo with your camera in black and white – one print will appear darker so pop that on the dark pile and put the other on the light pile. 3 If the two piles are uneven, go back and sort through the thicker pile until you have evened them out (a jelly roll usually has 40 strips in it, and you have removed four for binding, so you’ll have 18 on each pile). 4 Place one jelly roll strip in front of you. Line up the straight edge of the template with one end of the fabric strip (avoiding the selvedge edge) and draw around the template onto the fabric with a pencil or fabric marking pen. 5 Rotate the template so the angle matches up with the angle of the fabric and draw around again. Repeat all the

44 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

44 mini quiltv2.indd 44

14/11/2017 10:13

MASTERCLASS

BRAID QUILTS Here's how to assemble your beautiful blocks into this gorgeous quilt design. It's as easy as 1, 2, 3. 1

way along the strip to trace a total of eight template shapes. Cut out using scissors, being careful to cut them nice and straight. Repeat this process with all the strips, take care to keep them in their light and dark piles. You will have 288 shapes in total. Start to plan your columns, you need a total of nine and each one has 32 pieces in. Begin sub-sorting the light and dark piles into column piles â&#x20AC;&#x201C; take 32 pieces for the first column from either the dark or the light pile and refer to diagram to sew your pieces together (think of it like plaiting long hair, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the same look!) Press the seams open once you get to the end of the column and take care to keep everything nice and straight at the sides. The tops and bottoms of the columns will be squared off once everything is sewn together Start the second column, this time choosing 32 pieces from the opposite colour value. Continue for all nine columns, alternating light and dark, or dark and light! Once all nine columns are sewn and the seams pressed open, lay them out on a clean flat surface and sew together, remembering to alternate light and dark. Press the seams of the columns to one side. Once everything is sewn up and pressed flat, use a rotary cutter and ruler to square off the top and bottom of the patchwork. The sides will already be straight, but you need to trim off the pointy bits at the top and bottom. Layer the patchwork onto wadding and a backing fabric.

Remember these should be larger than the patchwork top. Temporarily secure the layers with tacking stitches, spray-baste glue or safety pins. Quilt the patchwork by stitching along the column seam lines through all the layers. If you prefer you can stitch along every seam line or make up your own design. Trim off the selvedge from the remaining four strips you set aside for binding and sew together end to end to form a long strip. Fold in half, WST, along the length and press. Open out one side of binding and with RST, align the long edge of binding with the longest edge of the back of quilt. Sew binding to back

ABOUT THE BOOK

One-Patch Quilts, available now, ÂŁ4.99 www.searchpress.com

side of quilt, sewing along the crease of the binding. Fold the binding around raw edge of the quilt and stitch through all layers close to the edge of the binding. Trim ends of the bias level with the top and bottom quilt edges. Repeat on the opposite side of quilt. Repeat at other two edges of quilt, this time leaving an overhang of approximately 1â&#x20AC;? at each end. Trim the extension to Â˝â&#x20AC;? beyond the quilt edge. Press the binding upwards then fold the short end of the bias over the edge of the quilt. Repeat at the other side of quilt and pin in place. Fold the long edge of bias over the top edge as you would normally, ensuring the corner is neatly arranged, and top-stitch to finish.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 45

44 mini quiltv2.indd 45

14/11/2017 10:13

Quick

In partnership with

MAKE

Garlands of

JOY

We used the beginner-friendly 525S! Visit www.janome.co.uk to see more of the fabulous range

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 20cm square base fabric backed with interfacing â&#x20AC;˘ 5 assorted buttons with double holes in the centre â&#x20AC;˘ co-ordinating/contrasting thread â&#x20AC;˘ embroidery hoop â&#x20AC;˘ button foot 'T' (optional)

NOTES: A top-loading mechanical machine has been used for this project

HOW TO MAKE: This is a great beginner level project or for those short on sewing time. Prepare your fabric by drawing a circle at the centre in pencil, following the inner edge of the hoop as a guide. Back the fabric with interfacing centrally beneath the circle. Fusible interfacing is neatest but you can hand-baste sew-in interfacing if you prefer. Using a decorative scallop stitch, sew a curve of stitching

across the width of the circle in the upper third. Make the stitching curved as though it is hanging down Using a narrow zigzag stitch, sew five vertical lines evenly spaced across the scalloped stitching . To attach the buttons by machine, lower the feed dogs using the lever on the free arm at the back of the machine (see image right). You might need to remove the accessories tray to access this lever. Prepare your machine with co-ordinating thread. The stitch length dial doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t matter as you have lowered the feed dogs. Position the buttons where you want to attach them. Using a small piece of sticky tape to hold each in place while stitching can help. Adjust the width dial â&#x20AC;&#x201C; start at 5. Lower the needle

into the left-hand hole of the button and turn the balance wheel on the side of the machine to make sure that the needle also goes into the hole on the right-hand side of the button. If the needle misses the hole, use the width dial to adjust the needle position accordingly to allow the needle to pass through the right-hand hole on the button. Sew approximately six stitches to hold the button in place. Once stitching is complete, take the thread tails through to the wrong side of the fabric to secure. This can also be done with the button sewing foot â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, which is an optional extra. Position the fabric in the hoop and draw the excess fabric

taut with a hand-sewn gathering stitch. Finish the reverse of the hoop with a circle of felt hand-stitched or glued in place.

Top tip!

Slide the lever on the back of the free arm to allow you to lower the feed dogs on the machine

46 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS46 p46 Janomev3.indd 46

14/11/2017 14:45

We love

STYLE

Say

TEES Master the art of sewing scuba with this snuggly tee Project SARAH WADEY My Handmade Wardrobe

Shopping list

Cobra corsage scuba, Â£8.25 per metre www.craftysewandso.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 47

LS47 p47 top.indd 47

14/11/2017 16:05

SIZING: BUST

WAIST

HIP

FINISHED BUST

FINISHED LENGTH

72-82cm

58-66cm

80-90cm

82cm

63cm

82-92cm

66-76cm

90-100cm

92cm

65.5cm

92-102cm

76-87cm

100-110cm

102cm

67.5cm

102-114cm

87-99cm

110-120cm

114cm

69.5cm

114-126cm

99-109cm

120-130cm

126cm

71.5cm

• 1.6m 110cm-wide (45”-wide) fabric for all sizes • 90cm 150cm-wide (60”-wide) fabric for sizes XS-M, 1.6m for sizes L-XL • co-ordinating polyester thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: For beginners we recommend using medium-weight stable jersey – interlock or ponte For confident sewists choose jersey with more drape – cotton jersey, jersey blends ie viscose jersey, cotton elastane jersey, lace, sports Lycra or mesh Seam allowance is 1.5cm

45" wide

Sarah Wadey

With RST join the back and front at the shoulder seams using a stretch stitch (see right). Press the seam open. Join the neckband with RST to create a circle. Fold the neckband in half widthways WST so you create a long narrow band and press the fold in place. If your fabric is particularly thin and rolls you may wish to hand-tack or machine-baste close to the open edge to hold the two layers together. Make sure this stitching is loose so you can still stretch the neckband. You may need to loosen the tension on your machine to achieve this.

BACK

FRONT

CUTTING:

HOW TO MAKE:

NECK BAND

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

FOLD

My Handmade Wardrobe Patterns are created by Crafty Sew & So team. Discover more about the exciting new line of patterns and find lots of helpful tutorials at www.myhandmadewardrobepatterns.com

48 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 p47 top.indd 48

14/11/2017 16:06

4 Pin the neckband onto 6 With RST join the side the outside of the neck seams. Take care to keep opening, aligning the raw the seam allowance edges with RST. Start by consistent around the lining up the centre underarm curve. (See back notches. Pic D.) Finish the (See pics A seams together, and B.) The or leave raw if neckband you prefer. join seam 7 Press If you haven’t worked should the seam with jersey fabric align with allowances before it is a good idea one of the away from to tack the neckband shoulder the neckband in place seams. Match and towards the all the other body. (See Pic. notches and then E). Secure the seam stretch the band evenly allowances to the front to fit between the notches and back of the garment. around the neck opening – Top-stitch approximately use plenty of pins! (See Pic 6mm from the seam with C.) An extra pair of hands may either a zigzag stitch or twin help with this if you have a needle. (See pics F to H and sewing buddy available! masterclass, right.) 5 Starting at the shoulder 8 Press up the hem by 1cm seam, stitch the band to the and stitch using one of the neck opening using a stretch topstitching methods. stitch and stretching the band 9 Press up the sleeve hem as you sew. Keep checking by 1cm and stitch using one the neckline underneath the of the methods above. The band to make sure all the underarm seam will be quite edges stay aligned. If you can tricky so use quite a few remove the accessory tray pins here to keep everything on your machine it may be a in place as you sew. Now good idea to use this so you put on your new tee and do can get the neckline around a happy dance to celebrate! the machine arm.

Top tip

MASTERCLASS

SEWING JERSEY Here's our cheat's guide to the stitches you can use to construct your tee with ease BALLPOINT NEEDLE STITCH 1 Use a three-step zigzag stitch for construction. This stitch is ideal for jersey hems as it stretches with wear and will hold rolling raw edges, which are often a feature of jersey fabric, in place. Use a stitch setting of 2 length and 3.5 width. (See Pic F.) Stitch on the WS of the fabric so that the zigzag covers over the raw edge.

(See Pic H.) If your fabric is really unruly, you can tack or pin it in place. You may want to use an erasable pen to mark the stitching line on the front of the fabric or use the tacking line as a guide. For both methods, align the righthand side of the foot with the seam line to get a nice consistent stitch around the neckline.

TWIN NEEDLE STITCH 2 Fit your machine with a twin needle and second thread spool following your machine's instruction manual. Twin-needle stitching is more tricky as you have to stitch on the RS of the fabric. This is made much easier by firmly pressing the seam allowance away from the neckline. The bobbin thread creates a zigzag effect on the underside and covers the raw edges of the hem so you’ll want to get this as accurate as possible.

OVERCASTING 3 Some machines have a special foot to use with a co-ordinating stitch which looks a bit like mountains and valleys. Line up the edges of the fabric with the gap in the foot and use the protruding plastic part to guide the fabric. OVERLOCKING 4 Use an overlocker to finish the edges of the seams, sewing them together after constructing your garment but before doing any top stitching.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 49

LS47 p47 top.indd 49

14/11/2017 16:06

This month 1'm making

Amy adapted a version of Tilly and the Buttons Etta

We’re in love with Amy’s version of the Etta dress by Tilly and the Buttons. Make sure you check out more of Amy’s gorgeous creations on her blog www.thatssewamy.com

his month I went back to my roots with a pin-up style dress. I used to love making retro dresses but I really had nowhere to wear them so I slowly stopped. I kept trying to focus on everyday clothes but then I realised I can wear these dresses to work – duh! So, I introduce you to the Etta dress pattern from Tilly and the Buttons.

THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabrics and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities. Each blogger's unique kits are available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com

The Etta dress is described as an elegant and fitted dress. The bust, waist and shoulders all have darts to help shape the dress and the pattern also has options for a high back and collar. It has a kick pleat for easy movement and the hem hits the bottom of your knees. I’ve been in love with the fabric since 2016 when I used it for the Simple Sew high-waisted pencil skirt. This is a stretch sateen and it’s just gorgeous. The colours are so vibrant, the fabric is smooth and I love that it has a tiny bit of stretch – perfect for tight dresses and skirts. The V-back detail is great as it’s kind of unexpected. I know this seems like a basic dress, so this is a nice ‘pop’ of surprise when you turn around. I will say

Amy says The V-back detail is great as it’s kind of unexpected

Black, pink and green floral-print stretch cotton dress fabric, £6.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com

that the dress has no pockets and that’s a massive bummer. I debated adding some but worried it would change the structure too much. I made a few measurement alterations – I remembered from my last Tilly make that I sized down and I knew this fabric had some stretch and wanted the dress to be super tight. I’m happy with the final results, it fits really well. Overall, this is a great pattern and I’m obsessed with this fabric. Don’t be intimidated by the fact that I made so many alterations, they were very quick and simple. I’m excited about this make and feel really proud of it.

50 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 p50 TMIM.indd 50

14/11/2017 10:40

A handpicked collection of fabrics... delivered to your door

www.misformake.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 51

LS47.P51.indd 51

09/11/2017 14:38

workshops RACHEL’S TEXTILE STUDIO

St Helier, Jersey

Rachel’s has excellent facilities and fabulous haberdashery, sewing essentials and fabric. It has Janome machines and many classes for children and adults of all levels, as well as genuine Jersey handmade gifts and vouchers. Rachel is happy to arrange events on a Wednesday for groups of four to eight if machining is involved, and up to 15 for craft and handstitching workshops. £17 per hour.

www.rachelstextilesstudio.com 01534 878877

7TH JANUARY Patchwork freeform curves Using a rotary cutter but no ruler, freely cut curves in gorgeous fabric and be shown how to machine them together to produce a wonderful stitched piece ready for a future project. Includes

Book yourself in to one of this month’s top workshops and expand your sewing horizons

refreshments, the use of Janome machines, equipment and all materials. Competence on the sewing machine is essential.

Cost: £36

14TH JANUARY Scissor case Use pretty fabric, wadding and binding to make a pretty scissor case. Includes refreshments, the use of Janome machines, equipment and all materials.

Cost: £36

28TH JANUARY

4TH FEBRUARY

Make a heart-shaped potholder

Valentine card

Use lovely fabric to quilt a heartshaped potholder and bind the edges. Competence on the machine is essential. Includes refreshments, the use of Janome machines, equipment and all materials.

Use pieces of fabric and Bondaweb to create your own unique fabric Valentine’s card. Includes refreshments, the use of our sewing machines, equipment and all materials. You may wish to hand stitch only.

Cost: £36

LITTLE SEW AND SEW

St. Leonards-on-Sea

Little Sew and Sew is a fabric shop that runs sewing classes and sells mainly cotton fabric. It is open from 10am to 5pm, Monday to Friday.

www.littlesewandsewsussex.com 01424 423375

16TH DECEMBER Children’s drop in Get into the festive spirit and come and make a Christmas decoration to hang on the tree. All materials provided.

Cost: £5 per child

4TH JANUARY Basic sewing course (five weeks) A great class for beginners to learn how to use a sewing machine and gain confidence in sewing.

Cost: £70

6TH JANUARY A-line skirt Come and make an A-line skirt using a simple pattern. You will need to provide your own material, which can be purchased from the shop at a discount.

Cost: £45

13TH JANUARY Tote bag workshop. In this workshop you will decorate a tote bag using appliqué, all materials included.

Cost: £45

52 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 Workshops.indd 52

14/11/2017 10:35

VARIOUS DATES DEC 17/JAN 18 Absolute beginners This workshop is suitable for someone who has never used a sewing machine before. You will learn how to set up and use a machine and make at least one project to take home with you. All tools and materials are provided.

Cost: £49

COTTON REEL STUDIO

Stockton-On-Tees, North Yorkshire

Cotton Reel runs easily accessible oneto-one workshops in Teesside and North Yorkshire areas, perfect for beginners. You can work on brand-new Janome machines on dates scheduled to suit you. It also has a wide selection of fabric and notions to choose from to complete your project.

www.cottonreelstudio.co.uk info@cottonreelstudio.co.uk

ABAKHAN There are plenty of exciting classes coming up at Abakhan stores. The family-run company sources top-quality fabric, accessories and haberdashery for sewists nationwide.

www.abakhan.co.uk

4TH DECEMBER Edge-to-edge jacket, Altrincham Join TGBSB’s Paul Clarke and create a short boxy jacket with full-length sleeves. You will be shown how to sew princess seams, how to fit facings, set-in sleeves and adapt it to add contrasting cuffs and hems.

Cost: £45

1ST DECEMBER Jersey wrap dress, Liverpool Come along and join Paul to make a comfortable, stylish wrap-over jersey knit dress using Simplicity 1653. This is perfect to learn how to work with stretch fabric.

VARIOUS DATES DEC 17/JAN 18 Beginner dressmaking – make a Tilly and the Buttons Cleo dungaree dress This workshop is suitable for someone who has previous experience of setting up a sewing machine and making some simple projects (eg cushions and tote bags). You will learn how to read a pattern, cut and stabilise fabric and sew buttonholes. You will need to bring fabric and notions, the pattern and use of tools and equipment is included in the price.

Sewing with jersey fabric can be daunting if you’ve never done it before. In this workshop, we will explain the different types of jersey and how to work with them without the need for equipment like overlockers. During the course, we will make a Tilly and the Buttons Coco dress or top. This workshop is suitable for someone who has some previous experience of setting up a sewing machine and making some simple projects. You will learn how to read a pattern and cut and work with jersey fabric. You will need to bring fabric and notions, the pattern and use of tools and equipment is included in the price.

Cost: £79

Want to make patterns for yourself? You need to look at this simple and effective system. It uses two measurements, bust and hip, and from there you are able to create patterns that will suit your body perfectly!

Cost: £30

3RD DECEMBER Inside out bags, Mostyn You will make a gorgeous little patchwork bag that can be turned inside out to give two very different looks. It can be used as a re-useable gift bag or a sewing caddy. This class is perfect to introduce you to using the ¼” foot, sewing and cutting accurately and matching seams.

Cost: £30

9TH DECEMBER Perfect square lap quilt, Altrincham

New introduction to the Lutterloh system, Altrincham Welcome to the Lutterloh system!

Cost: £45

6TH DECEMBER

Introduction to jersey fabric – Make a Tilly and the Buttons Coco dress or top

Cost: £79

This simply stunning lap quilt is very easy to make and introduces you to all the basic patchwork skills needed to complete a quilt. You will learn how to select your colour scheme, patchwork piecing, accurate rotary cutting, appliqué, mitred borders and stitch in the ditch. All materials included.

Cost: £45

VARIOUS DATES DEC 17/JAN 18

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 53

LS47 Workshops.indd 53

14/11/2017 10:35

15% OFF with LOVE47

www.cottonreelstudio.co.uk

54 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47.P54.indd 54

10/11/2017 11:03

ASK THE EXPERTS

Lace skirt

sew-along t4 Par

Let's finish our lace skirts and start planning where to wear them! www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 55

LS46 p58 Alison v3.indd 55

14/11/2017 16:25

Alison Smith MBE talks us through the final steps of our lace skirt, installing the waistband!

CHECK OUT

JOIN ALISON'S COUTURE LACE SKIRT CLASS NEXT YEAR, USING THESE TECHNIQUES. VISIT WWW. SCHOOLOFSEWING. CO.UK FOR COURSE DATES & MORE

y now your skirt should be looking almost complete except for the lining. The pattern we are using features a facing at the waist and this needs to be attached to the skirt lining. Cut out the skirt lining pieces. On the waist facings, attach silk organza with hand-basting stitches and then machine-sew a row of stitches 1.5cm away from the lower edge.

Place the lining and skirt RST and pin together at the waist. Machine-stitch the seam, stopping at the top of the zip and layer the facing side of the seam allowance. Press the seam into the facing and understitch. At the zip, turn under the lining seam allowance and pin alongside the zip. Secure with a flat-fell hand stitch

Press the lower facing edge to the WS along the machine stitching and place the facing over the lining, aligning at the waist edge. Replace the darts in the lining with tucks. Secure in place with pins.

Secure the facing at the side seams by hand-stitching in the ditch of the side seams.

Top-stitch the folded edge of the facing to the lining. Now you can join the front and back lining together at the side seams and CB – leaving a gap for the zip. Press the seams open.

At the hem edge, turn the lining up so that it is level with the hem and push the folded edge of the lining up by approximately 2.5cm. Pin to secure and use a flat fell stitch to secure the lining hem to the hem allowance of the skirt. The lining should ‘bag’ slightly to allow movement. Your skirt is now finished! Give the hem a steaming and a hand press as the hem should be soft rather than a hard-pressed edge.

ABOUT ALISON SMITH MBE Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with Alison at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

56 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS46 p58 Alison v3.indd 56

14/11/2017 16:25

We love

Too cool

GIFTS

FOR YULE MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 10cm embroidery hoop â&#x20AC;˘ Dandelyne 4cm brooch embroidery kits â&#x20AC;˘ black 16-count aida â&#x20AC;˘ white, brown, black, orange & pale blue floss â&#x20AC;˘ felt for backing hoop â&#x20AC;˘ all-purpose PVA glue â&#x20AC;˘ hot-glue gun & glue sticks â&#x20AC;˘ patterns downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Put your stitching to the test with this cute cross-stitched snowman and two super-speedy embroidered brooches Project BETHANY ARMITAGE

NOTES: Use three strands of embroidery floss when stitching the hoop. For the snowflake brooches, switch to two strands of embroidery floss

Top tip!

If you want to give your snowman a little scarf, stitch a scrap of fabric, yarn or ribbon at the neck

HOW TO MAKE: Fix the aida into the embroidery hoop, ensuring that the grid pattern of the fabric is straight and pull it taut. Using the stitch pattern, cross-stitch the snowman in white, with black for the eyes and buttons. Use black embroidery floss to stitch three French knots for the smile. Use backstitch and satin stitch for the orange nose, then back-stitch the arms using brown floss. Cross-stitch

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;let it snowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in pale blue floss below as shown. Place the hoop onto a sheet of felt. Trace around the edge and cut out. Turn the hoop over and trim the aida so that only

a narrow strip is available around the edge. Apply a thin layer of all-purpose glue on the join between the aida and the inner hoop. Attach the felt circle from Step 4 and trim as necessary.

Tiny hoops make fab brooches! www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 57

LS47 P57.indd 57

14/11/2017 12:14

MASTERCLASS

USING MINIATURE EMBROIDERY HOOPS 1 To create a snowflake brooch place a scrap of aida into an embroidery hoop and, using the pattern, backstitch a snowflake motif in white or pale blue. Leave a minimum of 2cm between each design. Cut out the snowflake with a 2cm allowance around the motif.

4 Using a hot-glue gun, glue the aida flat onto the wooden disc. Once dry, apply hot glue neatly around the wooden edge of the hoop back. Attach the wooden backing disc, ensuring the gap corresponds with the top of the hoop.

2 Place the miniature hoop over the top of the design and secure in place with the thin wooden disc behind, leaving 0.5-1cm of aida all the way around. 5 To finish, use the hot-glue gun to attach the brooch back in the centre of the brooch.

Shopping list Dandelyne 4cm miniature embroidery brooch kit, ÂŁ6.25 www.sewandso.co.uk Siesta 10cm woodgrain flexi embroidery hoop, ÂŁ1.50 www.abakhan.co.uk

3 Screw the metal bolt into the top holes of the brooch. Secure with one or two screws. To create a necklace, add a small ring into the centre of the bolt that you can attach a chain to.

58 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 P57.indd 58

14/11/2017 12:14

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 59

LS47.P59.indd 59

10/11/2017 15:33

Pretty sewing goodies, pattern tools and the chance to win fantastic prizes!

IN OUR GOOD BOOKS

Cutting it fine This beautiful gift set in luxurious rose gold is sure to delight anyone who loves sewing. The dressmaking shears and embroidery scissors are ideal for fabric cutting and thread trimming while the thimble offers ultimate finger protection. We have four beautiful sets to give away. Milward products are available nationwide from haberdashery, knitting and craft stockists. For stockist information, email groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

BUNDLE UP We love a good sample pack here at Love Sewing and this month one lucky reader will receive a beautiful bundle of fabric featuring designs from Cloud9 and Art Gallery Fabrics. Whether you want to create gorgeous gifts, spruce up an outfit or try your hand at quilting, these skinny eighths will enable you to create beautiful, fashionable pieces. Visit www.hantex.co.uk to find local stockists.

4 to win

Worth over

£200

Need to expand your craft library? From coin purses to handbags, The Purse Clasp Book (Search Press, £16.99) features quick and easy guides to help you install metal purse frames and create beautiful structured bags in no time. We have three copies up for grabs – bagsy mine! Can’t decide between a simple clutch or a practical backpack? Worry not, we have six copies of The Bag Boutique (Search Press, £14.99) to give away for anyone looking to expand their bagmaking skills and create beautiful accessories that will brighten up any outfit. If you’re in need of a project for the weekend then Sophie Pester and Catharina Bruns have just the thing. We have five copies of Supercraft (Dorling Kindersley Ltd, £12.99) to give away. Packed with over 50 projects, from jewellery to home decorations, this book is the perfect companion for anyone looking to upcycle craft projects and expand their creative horizons.

HOW TO ENTER

For a chance to win any of this issue’s giveaways, enter your details along with the names of the products you would like to win at www.ppjump.com/

lovesewing47 By entering these competitions, you accept that your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities. Closing date 4th January 2018

60 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 60 v2.indd 60

14/11/2017 10:12

£250 VOUCHER GIVEAWAY Choosing your next favourite sewing pattern just got harder. The lovely team at Simple Sew is spoiling us this month by offering Love Sewing readers the chance to win one of five £50 vouchers to use on its products. With patterns available to suit all levels, Simple Sew offers easy-tofollow patterns to help you create the most cutting-edge designs. Its beautiful range will allow you to create a variety of projects including tea dresses, notch-collar jackets, shell tops and much more. Fingers at the ready! Visit www.simplesewpatterns.com to find out more.

Worth over

£250

Win a wrap dress from Sew Over It The lovely team over at Sew Over It has done it again with its beautiful new wrap dress pattern! This gorgeous dress would be a fantastic addition to anyone’s wardrobe. We’ve got five paper patterns to give away this month, but if you can’t wait, visit www. sewoverit.co.uk to buy this and more of its fabulous range.

Exclusive

DISCOUNTS SAVE 20% on suiting, tweed and tartan at Abakhan with the code LOVE47. Go to www.abakhan.co.uk to see the beautiful range. Offer expires 28th December 2017

SAVE 25% online with the code LOVESEW47. Visit www.sewingbelle. co.uk to take advantage of this amazing offer. Offer valid between 30th Nov and 31st Dec 2017.

SAVE 10% on your first order at The Denim Company with the code LS10. The shop dabbles in dressmaking, patchwork, soft toy making and more – anything made with denim! Head to www. thedenimcompany.co.uk to take a look at the lovely range. Offer expires 31st Dec 2017.

CLAIM your free Kwik Sew dress

pattern! This dress features flattering princess seams and deep pockets. You just pay P&P. See page 70 for info.

Offer available while stocks last and limited to one pattern per order.

SAVE 20% on pleated fabric at Fabrics For Sale with the code LSPLEAT47. Visit www.fabricsforsale. co.uk before the 31st December 2017 to claim your discount! SAVE 20% at Birdy & Blue with the code LOVEBIRDY47. Go to www.birdyandblue.co.uk to take advantage of this great discount. Offer ends 28th Dec 2017

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 61

LS47 60 v2.indd 61

14/11/2017 10:12

clothspot.co.uk 01775 640996

New fabrics every Friday!

Request your free fabric catalogue today!

clothbound makers of exquisite pressing tools

CHOOSE FROM A WIDE SELECTION OF HAMS TO SUIT YOUR SEWING NEEDS

www.clothbound.co.uk e: clothbound@outlook.com

Bespoke Cabinet Maker  T H E U K’S N O.1 S E W I N G MAG A Z I N E

To advertise please contact Noune on 0161 474 6997 or email noune.sarkissian@ practicalpublishing.co.uk

I make each piece of furniture by hand to your own size and speciﬁcation Sewing Cabinets & Tables Sewing Boxes Bookcases Media Units Fitted Bedrooms and Kitchens Please see our website for all of our furniture Website: www.exclusivefurniture.co.uk Mobile: 07714958622

62 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47.P63.indd 62

10/11/2017 11:13

We love

STYLE

KNICKERS with a

TWIST

Everyone deserves to feel and look good under their clothes. Sew your own silky knickers with optional ties! Project DELIA ADEY & ERIKA PETO Flo-Jo Boutique

Shopping list Find the range of knicker-making kits online, from Â£15 www.flo-jofabrics.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 63

63 knickers.indd 63

14/11/2017 12:05

Delia & Erika Why not try hosting a fun knicker-making party with your friends?

Top tip

Feel like the ribbon is too fussy? Just leave it off! Or ramp up the drama with constrast bows

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ FQ satin, cotton lawn etc or a vintage silk scarf â&#x20AC;˘ 15cm square cotton jersey for gusset â&#x20AC;˘ 2m 1.5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2.5cm-wide knicker elastic with frilled or crocheted edge â&#x20AC;˘ thread to match elastic & fabric â&#x20AC;˘ bobbin thread to match gusset â&#x20AC;˘ 2m 2â&#x20AC;&#x201C;3cm-wide silk, satin or grosgrain ribbon (you can use any type but silk keeps the knickers feeling beautifully luxurious) â&#x20AC;˘ templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

CUTTING: Depending on the size and pattern of your scarf you can lay your pattern diagonally on the bias or on the straight grain and maybe squeeze two pairs of knickers from one scarf Laying on the bias will mean that your knickers will have a bit more â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;easeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in them. Cut out the paper pattern following your size lines using your chosen layout plan Remember to cut the ribbon piece on

the bias as well if you choose to make it from fabric Cut out the gusset shape from a piece of cotton jersey

NOTES: When buying silk scarves look at the hem, a good indicator of silk is a hand-stitched rolled hem. Polyester scarves tend to be machine stitched. Another way of telling silk from man-made fabric is by burning a thread â&#x20AC;&#x201C; silk will burn with a flame, whereas manmade fabric will melt. Of course burning thread in charity shops is not an option, so checking the hem will ensure you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get into trouble!

HOW TO MAKE: Pin together the three parts of the knickers in this order: gusset, back, front, with RST and notches lined up. Place the pinned fabric in your sewing machine with the gusset on the underside and sew along edge with 1cm seam allowance using a straight stitch. Open out the joined-

together knicker pieces, flip the gusset over into place and pin. The raw seam edges will be concealed. Secure the gusset in place by stitching down both the outer edges. Do this on the machine, sewing 5mm away from the edge. Trim the gusset to the exact size of the knickers to neaten if necessary. Line up the elastic to the edge of the right side of the fabric. The straight edge of the elastic is parallel to the edge of the fabric and the frill should point inwards. Secure with a couple of stitches. Then take the elastic and zigzag over with tension by pulling a little towards you. You should get an even gathering of fabric. Continue around the four edges. Try to keep your stitches as close to the edge as you can. Do not elasticate the side seams. When you have gone round the four sides, fold the elastic over so the frill is on the outside and the elastic is on the inside of the fabric. With the RS of the knickers facing you, place them under the presser foot and do a couple of zigzag stitches to secure. Then pull the knickers out flat and sew on the outside of the knickers all the way around again, using a zigzag stitch (or a three-step zigzag if you have one), to hold the elastic in place. The raw edge of the fabric is now hidden by the elastic and the lacy frill is left showing over the edge of the knickers.

Now you need to attach the ribbon. Cut four 30cmlong pieces of ribbon. Working on the inside of the knickers, line up the end of the ribbon with the side edge, laying the ribbon inwards towards the body of the knickers. Fold over the end, folding both ribbon and knicker edge once. Flip the ribbon back away from the knickers. Hold it in place with your fingers (itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easier than pinning this stage) and place under the sewing machine presser foot. Sew a rectangle shape through all the layers with a straight stitch to secure the ribbon to the knickers. Repeat on the other three sides. Tie a bow and if you have a vintage button this is the time to add it for a finishing touch.

ABOUT THE BOOK

Knickers! by Delia Adey and Erika Peto, ÂŁ8.99 www.sewandso.co.uk

64 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

63 knickers.indd 64

14/11/2017 12:05

A BRIEF HISTORY OF

A brief history of

BLOOM BLOOMERS Worlds apart from the lingerie we wear today, bloomers and knickerbockers have interesting origins!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 65

65 History of.indd 65

14/11/2017 16:42

Bloomers provided a revolution for women in terms of freedom of movement

During her lifetime most people made fun of Bloomer's progressive fashion statement and she was widely ridiculed. When bloomers were introduced to mainstream women as a form of comfortable undergarment in the late 1800s, the reception at first was controversial. Many men and women viewed the underwear as unnatural to a woman's form. These critics preferred that women wear only layers of petticoats around their bodies so their shape was not discernible. Bloomer herself dropped the fashion in 1859, saying that a new In the early 19th century invention, the crinoline, was a women's underwear sufficient reform that she could consisted of two separate return to conventional dress. legs joined only at

Fun fact! the waist!

We refer to underwear as a 'pair' because in the early 19th century women's underwear consisted of two separate legs joined only at the waist. They really were a 'pair' of drawers. And the garments were often referred to as drawers because underwear for women was 'drawn on', with a drawstring holding them tight at the waist. The term knickers came into common usage because of an illustration in the 1809 Washington Irving novel History of New York by Diedrich Knickerbocker. The fictional historian who was supposedly a Dutchman living in New York favoured the baggy trousers cuffed neatly at the ankle. In Britain the illustrations for the book showed a Dutchman wearing long, loose-fitting garments on his lower body. The loose trousers men often wore for playing sport were also called knickerbockers, however in Britain women's underwear soon adopted the name and it became the prominent usage. In the late 19th century the word was shortened to knickers and here we are today!

Everett Historical / Shutterstock.com

T The costume of women should be suited to her wants and necessities... her health, comfort and usefulness

hrough the first half of the 20th century, women wore underwear for three primary reasons: to alter their outward shape (first with corsets and later with girdles or brassieres), for hygiene reasons and of course for modesty. The term bloomer is taken from a 19th-century garment worn by American women's rights activist Amelia Jenks Bloomer (1818–1894). Although not the creator of the style, she was the main promoter as Bloomer wanted women to wear clothing that allowed freedom of movement. She appeared regularly in public in knee-length, loose-fitting trousers. As a newspaper woman promoting the female voice, she spoke eloquently about the issue: "The costume of women should be suited to her wants and necessities. It should conduce at once to her health, comfort and usefulness; and, while it should not fail also to conduce to her personal adornment, it should make that end of secondary importance."

Over the centuries, lengths and cuts of lingerie have become shorter and more daring in correlation with societal changes. In 1949 an American tennis player named Gertrude Moran or Gussie Moran (1923-2013) caused a sensation when she appeared at Wimbledon wearing frilly knickers. She was called Gorgeous Gussie and it was very daring in 1949! Style is now the prominent feature over comfort for many women and it would be highly surprising to find lingering champions of the historic bloomers. Tempted to make your own knickers? Try our project on page 63!

Find out more Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear by Victoria & Albert Museum £10 www.vam.ac.uk Presenting highlights from the V&A exhibition, Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear, this book explores the history of men's and women's underwear since 1750

66 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

65 History of.indd 66

14/11/2017 16:42

The essential guide to gorgeous garments & gifts!

FREE

ISSUE 16 ON SALE 7TH DECEMBER

In sizes 4-26

4-IN-1 DRESS PATTERN Great last-minute gift ideas

Kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; adorable T-shirt

Pretty shoulder bag

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/sn16

LS47 P67.indd 67

14/11/2017 11:41

We love

BAGS

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 50cm fabric for front side panels & bag back (Fabric A) • 30cm fabric for base & front centre panel (Fabric B) • 30cm for handles & patch pockets (optional) (Fabric C) • 1m for lining (Fabric D) • 30cm for front pocket (Fabric E) • 1.5m Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing • 1m Vlieseline 279 wadding • FQ Vlieseline S320 fusible interfacing • 7cm-wide Vlieseline Bundfix tape • co-ordinating thread • 18cm regular zip • 2 grey plastic snap fasteners • ribbon scrap for zip pull

Bags of

STYLE With different directions of quilting creating a gorgeous sense of movement, you'll love this clever tote tutorial Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER

NOTES: Finished size: 55x40x10cm, plus handles Seam allowance of 0.5cm is used unless otherwise stated

HOW TO MAKE: THE HANDLES 1 Cut a 140cm-long piece of Bundfix tape. Cut a piece of Fabric C the same length as the tape and 10cm wide. Fuse the tape to the WS of the fabric, allowing some fabric to overhang. 2 Fold in the raw edges and fold the tape in half to make a strap 3.5cm wide. Top-stitch twice down each side with co-ordinating thread and then cut the strap in half to make two handles. THE FRONT 3 From Fabric B, cut a 60x15cm bottom strip. 4 From fabric A, cut two 34.5x20cm front panels. 5 From Fabric C, cut a 24x34.5cm middle panel. 6 From Fabric E and from lining, cut a 24cm-square pocket, and a 25cm-square

Shopping list Yinghua Cherrylight and Yinghua Rainwater cotton, Cool Foliage smooth solid denim, Zhu Nectar and Zhu Mist cotton are from Art Gallery Fabrics, see www.hantex.co.uk/mystotckist for stockists' details

68 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 bag.indd 68

14/11/2017 17:43

MASTERCLASS

ZIPPER POCKETS piece of wadding. Place the pocket fabric over the top of it and channel-quilt with vertical lines 1cm apart. Trim the wadding back to the size of the pocket front and lay the lining RST over the pocket. Sew along the top edge only and then fold the lining over and press. Topstitch the top edge narrowly. Align all the layers and then tack the sides and bottom of the pocket. Take the Fabric C middle panel and cut a slightly larger piece of wadding. Channelquilt together on the diagonal, with lines 1cm apart. Trim back the wadding and lay the pocket over the quilted panel. Pin and tack the edges together. Install a plastic snap fastener to connect the top centre edge of the central pocket and the middle panel. For the two side panels and the bottom panel layer the fabric pieces onto pieces of wadding slightly larger and then quilt (horizontally this time), before trimming to size. Sew the two side panels to the middle pocket section, and then sew the bottom panel to the bottom. Press and trim all around. To get the basic bag shape, we do not need a template. Mark the vertical centre on the top edge. From this mark, measure 30cm either side and make a mark at the same level. Do the same on the bottom edge. Find the bottom centre mark, but this time measure 25cm either side of it and make a mark. Draw a straight line across the top and across the bottom, stopping at the marks. Join the bottom left and top left, and bottom right and top right points to make a sort of inverted trapezoid. Cut out the shape. This is the front of the bag.

Cut a 25x50cm piece of pocket lining. On the WS of the back panel, measure down 5cm from the centre top and mark a 1x18cm zip box.

Lay the bag front onto a slightly larger piece of foam interfacing and sew around the outside with a narrow seam. Trim back the foam interfacing. THE BACK The bottom section of the back is the same as on the front: cut a piece from Fabric B measuring 60x15cm. Back it with wadding, then channelquilt and trim. The rest of the back is made from fabric A and measures 60x34.5cm. Back

ABOUT THE BOOK

The Bag Boutique, by Debbie von Grabler-Crozier, ÂŁ14.99 from www.searchpress.com

with wadding and then quilt this with horizontal lines, as you did for the front sides. Create a zippered pocket following the masterclass (right). Lay the back panel onto a piece of foam interfacing and attach with a narrow seam. Trim back the foam interfacing. THE LINING Use the front of the bag as a template to cut two pieces of lining fabric. Lay the front and back lining together and sew the sides and bottom, leaving a large turning gap in the bottom edge. Draw a 5cm square in each corner and cut them out. Pinch off the corners and box the bottom by sewing across the seam. PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER Lay the front and back outer pieces together with RST, and sew the sides and bottom without gaps. Draw a 5cm square in each corner and then cut it out. Pinch the corners off and box the bottom. With a narrow seam, attach the straps to the front and back with RST, 14.5cm in from each edge.

Place the pocket lining RST with the back panel and sew around the box. Snip along the centre and into the corners of the box, then post the lining through and press.

Install the zip behind the window, then fold over and sew the sides and bottom of the lining to complete the pocket.

With the outer the RS out and the lining inside out, pull the lining on over the outer and then sew around the top, leaving no gaps. Turn the bag out through the gap in the lining and then sew the gap closed. Stuff the lining down into the bag and top-stitch around the top edge. To finish, attach another plastic snap fastener to the top edge in the middle to keep the bag closed.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 69

LS47 bag.indd 69

14/11/2017 17:43

! R E F F O R E D A E R E IV S U L C EX

FREE

DRESS PATTERN Meet Kwik Sew 3955 - an easy-fit, easy-wear dress pattern featuring flattering princess seams and deep pockets. This paper pattern covers UK sizes 8-20 (XS-XL). We are offering this gorgeous pattern to Love Sewing readers for free â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all you need to do is pay P&P!

Sizes

XS-XL Offer available while stocks last and limited to one pattern per order

To claim your free copy, head to www.craftstash.co.uk/ls47readeroffer 70 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 Postaway.indd 70

14/11/2017 10:46

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 71

LS47.P71.indd 71

09/11/2017 16:39

We love

HOME

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 1m cactus-print cotton • 50cm contrast spot cotton • FQ black & white diagonal stripe fabric for binding • 1m Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing • 50cm Vlieseline S320 fusible interfacing • 60cm Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding • FQ Vlieseline Decovil fusible interfacing • 1 pack beige faux leather • Jet Black Ranger Archival Ink • small Courier font alphabet stamp set • glue stick • co-ordinating thread for topstitching

SORT it out

Storing your supplies doesn't have to be boring with this zingy cactus-print organiser Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk

CUTTING: From the spot fabric, cut: • 35x40cm outer base • 2 40x12cm outer long sides • 2 35x12cm outer short ends • 34x11cm tray A lining base • 2 35x11cm tray A lining sides • 2 27x11cm tray B lining bases • 2 13.5x13.5cm tray C bases From the cactus fabric, cut: • 2 11cm-square tray A short ends • 4 11cm-square tray B short ends • 4 27x11cm tray B long sides • 4 13.5x11cm tray C sides

NOTES: Seam allowances are all 0.5cm unless otherwise stated The organiser is created with multiple trays; when finished there is: 1 x tray A, 2 x tray B, 2 x tray C.

HOW TO MAKE: OUTER 1 The outside is a large open tray consisting of four sides and a base. The sides and base are all interfaced firstly with H630 fusible wadding and then placed over a piece of StyleVil and attached to that with a narrow seam before trimming.

Shopping list Threaders Home Grown Funky Cactus cotton, £5.99 per half metre and faux leather, beige £6.99 www.crafterscompanion.co.uk Slanted Lines Take Shape by Art Gallery Fabrics, see www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist

72 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

72 drawer organiser.indd 72

14/11/2017 10:09

2 Cut pieces of H630 the same size and quantity as the spotty fabric and fuse these to the WS of the fabric pieces. 3 On the base only, cut a 33x38cm piece of Decovil and fuse it centrally onto the H630. The foam interfacing will go over the top of this so proceed as normal. 4 Lay each interfaced spotty fabric piece onto a piece of slightly larger Style-Vil foam and attach with a narrow seam (the narrower the better). 5 Trim the Style-Vil back to the size of each fabric panel. 6 Sew the trimmed pieces to the base with the RST. When you sew on the pieces, don’t sew into the corner seam allowance. Then, when the tray is turned the right way out, the corners will be sharp. To sew up the sides, you can go right to the top edge but stay out of the seam allowance at the bottom – treat it like a Y seam. 7 Turn RS out and gently push the corners out until they are sharp. The outer is now finished. LABELS 8 Cut a small piece of Decovil 2.5x8cm long and, using a pressing cloth, fuse it to the back of a piece of faux leather that is roughly 1.5cm larger all around. Repeat to make labels of various lengths and all 2.5cm wide. 9 Cut across the corners to reduce bulk and then fold the raw edges back and use the glue stick to keep them down. Stamp a label on the front. TRAY A Fuse H630 interfacing to the WS of the lining base. For all the other lining pieces fuse S320 to the WS. On one of the long pieces, sew a faux leather label about 2cm down from the top and in the dead centre using topstitching thread. Sew the sections together to form a tray. Three of the

Top tip

sides (which TRAY B Fuse S320 will go Adjust the height of the interfacing to against the organiser as needed to the WS of each outer), are fit your desk or sewing long section. finished Fuse H630 to and need no space perfectly the WS of the two further lining. 27x11cm bases. The side with the Add faux leather label on, however, labels to two short ends and has split lining on the back sew together as you did before so that the other sections can to form two identical trays. be joined into it. This time To join the trays, sew the pieces are sewn together together along one long RST but, because it is drop-in side, staying out of the seam lining, you do not have to turn allowance. When you fold the lining the right way out – them back the right way, the it is ready to go. Once again, when you sew centre seams will make the the sides up, stay out of the sections slightly lower than the seam allowance and do this outer – perfect for binding. on the top and bottom. This makes it easier to turn the TRAY C There are two square trays seam allowance over for when that are made the same way. you put everything together.

Fuse the bases with H630 interfacing and the sides with S320. Add a label to two of the side pieces. Assemble as you did the earlier trays, then bring in the first tray that you made and join it to the bottom. FINISHING To make bias binding, cut 3.5cm-wide strips from the black and white fabric on the bias and then join them together to form a long strip. Fold in half lengthways and press and then fold the raw edges in and press them too. Sew around the top of the organiser to encase the raw edge. Drop the lining into the outer and bind the top edge all around with black and white binding.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 73

72 drawer organiser.indd 73

14/11/2017 10:09

Shows you how to...

Claire-Louise Hardie

READ A PATTERN CIRCLE DOTS

These marks indicate construction details, such as zipper position, pleating, or the endof-stitching line, as set out in the instructions. Some pattern companies will use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.

PATTERN CUTTING LINE

Each line relates to different size for the garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a pattern sheet so you can either follow a single cutting line throughout or blend carefully between sizes to achieve a better fit.

GRAINLINE

The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it can hang, move and stretch correctly. The grainline must always be parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished edges) of the fabric.

BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT

The placement for a button is marked with an X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked with an edged line. TUCKS/PLEATS

Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern PLACE ON FOLD LINE

This edge of the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to cut out a mirror image at the same time. pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment. Follow directional arrows where given.

ABBREVIATIONS DARTS

SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE)

Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping, usually located at the bust, waist and neck.

Every project you sew has a set seam allowance. This is the distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. These lines are occasionally included on vintage patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to line up correctly. Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in case smaller allowances are being used. Sewing machines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side of the presser foot.

NOTCHES

Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch location, within the seam allowance. These marks are used to match pieces together before sewing.

RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT)

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS

These explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on the envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take care with directional prints; you wouldn’t want a floral print top with all the flowers upside down.

LS41.P68 Pattern Adjustments.indd 68

Instructions for placing right sides of fabric together will be written as RST. LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE

This indicates exactly where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece or garment to make changes for improved fit.

WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK)

Instructions for fusing interfacing to the wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.

30/05/2017 15:01

ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT Draw a third horizontal line a little above the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of the pattern.

BUST ADJUSTMENTS

First, you need to work out how much additional space you require around the bust or what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart to work out the amount: Small bust example

Full bust example

Full bust measurement

33â&#x20AC;?

38â&#x20AC;?

High bust measurement

32â&#x20AC;?

35â&#x20AC;?

Difference

1â&#x20AC;?

3â&#x20AC;?

Adjustment

1/2â&#x20AC;? SBA = half the difference

11/2â&#x20AC;? FBA = half the difference

Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the armhole, making sure not to cut all the way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has now swung away from its original position. Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the dart so you can pivot.

The lower edge of your hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you drew, and spread apart until your hem is level. Fill in the spaces created with tracing paper, and stick into place.

Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line from the marked point to the hem. Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.

SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E) Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment. This is essentially the same process in reverse.

From this line, draw a second line up towards the armhole, hitting the lower third of the armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.

Swing the darted side of the pattern across the other side, by the desired SBA amount. The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you drew, and overlap until your hem is level.

Draw a second line horizontally through the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the bust point.

1/3

apex

2 lap

Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, you can easily do this yourself. NARROW BACK (FIGS A â&#x20AC;&#x201C; C) B

Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll notice that your dart has now spread apart too and become bigger.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D) Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to establish where your bust point is. Mark onto the pattern with a cross.

BACK ADJUSTMENTS

Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm from the armhole to just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from this point. Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small Âźâ&#x20AC;? adjustment is often enough. Play around with this amount as you develop your fitting skills. Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.) Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll now need to make the front shoulder width a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole away. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to make sure your new curved line is smooth at the shoulder. BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E) D

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT

SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A) Working at 90Ë&#x161; to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. LENTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B) Working at 90Ë&#x161; to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the spaces with scrap paper. A

BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A) To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist, indicated by the dotted line. To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to the required size.

LS41.P68 Pattern Adjustments.indd 69

Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment drawing the two lines and cutting along them.

Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with a broad back a Âź-Â˝â&#x20AC;? adjustment is about right. Fill in the space with some tracing paper and stick together. Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines on Fig D.) This time youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need to make the front shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned. Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front shoulder and armhole. Check that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve drawn a smooth line over the shoulder.

30/05/2017 15:01

Support your local sewing shop

WORTH

£19*

Spend £15 in participating stores to receive your FREE seven-pack of Gütermann Sew-all 150m thread worth £19!

WIN

Shop at your local store and fill in the coupon on page 78 for a chance to win this fantastic prize

a £1,400 sewing room set!

Spend a minimum of £15 in any of the participating stores to be entered into this prize draw* You'll also get a seven-pack of Gütermann Sew-all 150m thread worth £19 with every entry!* *Terms & conditions apply

BANBURY

BEVERLEY

You’ll also be entered into our exclusive prize draw to WIN your dream sewing room set! One lucky reader will win an amazing Janome DKS100 Special Edition sewing machine, Horn Hobby chair and Storage 4 Crafts sewing table, worth £1,400!

BEXLEY HEATH

Banbury Sewing Centre 57 Parsons Street, Banbury, Oxon OX16 5NB

enquiries@banburysewingcentre.co.uk

Open 9-5 Mon-Sat

Supplying Fabrics, including Designer, Disney and Quilting. Patterns,Haberdashery, Lace, Trims, buttons and things. Knitting & Crochet accessories and yarns. Classes.

Why compromise? BIRMINGHAM Free Meter of fabric for

www.guetermann.com the ﬁrst 5

customers to place an order

Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will ﬁnd exactly what you are looking for. Bernina and Janome stockists

Telephone orders welcome 01295 262344

The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

CHEPSTOW

CHESHIRE

Birmingham City Centre Sewing Studio & Tuition 212 The Jubilee Centre, 120 Pershore Street, Birmingham B5 6ND Fabric and Haberdashery Shop specialising in amazing jerseys and luxury cotton lawns. Dashwood Jerseys now in stock Tel 07917 536 220 www.sewcoolandcrafty.co.uk

CLITHEROE

DURHAM

17 Moor Street, Chepstow, NP16 5DB 01291 627 056

An abundance of haberdashery awaits you. Fabrics, patterns, gutterman threads, DMC embroidery threads, gorgeous ribbons and buttons and more... alterations and curtain making too!

BlueButtonDesigns djpproducts@msn.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351 Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Make Buttons Designs Weekly Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

76 l www.lovesewingmag.com

LS47.P76-78.indd 76

14/11/2017 12:51

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

GRIMSBY

From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

Come on in and take a look around! 2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU 01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk

HEREFORD

HALIFAX

Badder Fabrics of Hereford

The Fabbadashery

Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings. Craft Workshops Every Week! hello@thefabbadashery.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574 10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX

One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

MORPETH

LINCOLNSHIRE

A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'! Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

NEWARK

NORFOLK

Amble Pin Cushion Ad 46x50mm AW.indd 1

Home of Crafty Betty & The Fabric Daisy Services we offer are: Workshops, Courses, Hen and Birthday Parties, Arts Award, After School Clubs, plus we have a retail area where we sell fabric and handcrafted goods.

www.newarkcrafthub.co.uk 01636 705909

13/05/2016 08:42

Fabrics and Haberdashery Sewing patterns in stock Ribbon, Lace and Trimmings Alterations Sewing classes and workshops Free friendly advice

01366 387147 1 Lynn Road, Downham Market, Norfolk PE34 3SB

Why compromise?

www.guetermann.com www.lovesewingmag.com l 77

LS47.P76-78.indd 77

14/11/2017 12:51

A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions. We run weekly classes and workshops. We also stock wool. No.1 St Teilo Street Pontarddulais Swansea, SA4 8TH 01792 886 986 melanie.1971@live.co.uk

NORTHALLERTON

NORTHWICH Cheshire

The Sew Easy Sewing Shop

Your NEW one stop sewing shop! Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter.

Need haberdashery in Northwich? Look no further than Sew Easy! We’ve a huge selection of fabric, needlecraft, sewing machines, patterns, and haberdashery products. 80 Witton Street, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 5AE

Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY

07952709910

Tel: 01609 531399 Email: info@sewnew.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk

www.seweasysewingshop.co.uk

FREE GIFT WORTHING

• Servicing and repairs on all makes and from models of sewing machines from £40 • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories • Friendly, knowledgeable service

WORTH £19*

1 The Broadway, Brighton Road Worthing, BN11 3EG T: 01903 200771 E: katybobbin@gmail.com

A family run business based in Ulverston, the Lake District, housing over 500 fabrics. Running sewing classes from beginners to patchwork & quilting and lampshade making. Also making unique childrens clothing.

2 Market Street, Ulverston, LA12 7AY 07742 247 179 or 07815 691 258 thelittlekraftshed@gmail.com

SCOTLAND

PRESTON HAMPSHIRE ®

www.sewcreative.org.uk

fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, Welcome to my lovely & craft emporium! workshops more We have lots of crafty goodies for sale 20-22support, Lavant Street, PETERSFIELD, however inspiration and the Hampshire, GU32are 3EW service with a smile free! T: 01730 858020

Open 9.00am - 5.30pm Monday to E: info@sewcreative.org.uk Saturday 68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com

SHEFFIELD Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts. 1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

SOUTHAMPTON

to advertise in

call NOUNE on 0161 474 6997

www.handmadehappyhare.com

STOKE-ON-TRENT

Fabulous fabrics for patchwork, dressmaking & crafts. 2 Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road Dibden Purlieu, Southampton Hampshire SO45 4PX Tel; 02381 783386 Mon - Sat 10AM - 4PM www.newforestfabrics.co.uk

SUFFOLK Crafty Baba Fabrics 32 St Peters St, Ipswich

42 www.quiltnow.co.uk

Claim your FREE Gütermann thread pack at one of these participating stores PLUS, be entered into our exclusive bumper prize QN34.P40.indd 42 draw* Name............................................................................................................... Address............................................................................................................

Over 1000 lines of fabric & haberdash craftybaba.co.uk Tel 01473 210636

......................................................................................................................... ......................................................................................................................... ......................................................................................................................... .........................................................................................................................

SURREY

TEWKESBURY

......................................................................................................................... Email...............................................................................................................

*Minimum in-store spend of £15 applies. To take advantage of this offer, please hand this voucher over the counter with your contact details completed. Your free Gütermann sevenpack of Sew-all 150m thread will be sent directly to you from Practical Publishing Ltd. Please ensure all your details are completed in black ink. By taking advantage of this offer you are agreeing to join the Practical Publishing Int Ltd e-newsletter list. You may opt out of this at any time. Your details will not be shared with any third-party companies. Please allow 2-4 weeks for your free thread to arrive. Available while stocks last. UK offer only. Only stores listed on pages 38-40 of Love Sewing 47 are participating in the thread and prize draw offer. Competition ends 15th March 2018.

Sweet Seams Sewing Academy specialises in teaching people of all abilities to sew. Young sewers from 8 years. Teenagers group and Adult classes. Small classes + friendly environment = happy creative customers Fabrics, haberdashery, patterns and handmade gifts. 41 Walton Road, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 0DH www.sweetseams.co.uk 07954 326495

78 l www.lovesewingmag.com

LS47.P76-78.indd 78

14/11/2017 12:52

SWATCH SELECTOR

Festive fiesta

ABOUT

Kerry Kerry Green is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks and is a contributor to many other books and magazines. Find sewing tips, free tutorials, patterns and more at Kerryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blog www. verykerryberry.blogspot.co.uk

Combine glitzy solids with retro Christmas prints in your festive sewing this year

his month we have fabric to get you in the party mood â&#x20AC;&#x201C; there are stars, sparkles and even zebras in party hats! For lovers of retro, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a definite mid-century influence on the atomic patterned baubles and twirling ice-skaters. The bronze Manchester Metallic is a delicious drapey cotton blend ideal for dressmaking and with just the right amount of shimmer for the perfect party outfit. New fabric releases include Kona cotton Waterfall, one of 37 new colours that have just been added to its extensive solid fabric range, and the peach stars are from a wonderful floral collection, Daisy Chain by Annabel Wrigley â&#x20AC;&#x201C; check out the rest of the prints at Eternal Maker. It just had to be a Christmas tree quilt block for December. Amy Smart from Diary of a Quilter has a tutorial that produces a similar block. She uses an easy improv technique to help you stitch up a forest of trees! Check it out at www.diaryofaquilter.com/2015/12/modern-christmas-tree-quilt-block

Shopping list

Merry Little Christmas, Baubles on Dark Blue by Jane Farnham for Dashwood Studio, ÂŁ2.87 per FQ, www.doughtysonline.co.uk Daisy Chain, Peach Quilt Block by Annabel Wrigley for Windham Fabrics, ÂŁ4 per FQ, www.eternalmaker.com Safari Party, Zebras in Green with Gold Sparkle by Melissa Mortenson for Riley Blake, ÂŁ4.50 per FQ, www. thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk Kona Cotton, Waterfall by Robert Kaufman, ÂŁ2.25 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk Nut Cracker Act 1, Mini Overture in Navy by Sarah Jane for Michael Miller, ÂŁ3.20 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk Fossil Rim, Fossil Terrain in Yellow by Riley Blake, ÂŁ3.20 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk Wonderland, Skaters by Makower, ÂŁ2.75 per FQ, www.emmasfabricstudio.co.uk Manchester Metallic in Bronze by Robert Kaufman, 92% cotton/ 5% Lurex/ 3% polyester, ÂŁ4.15 per FQ, www.eternalmaker.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 79

LS47 79 swatch selector.indd 79

14/11/2017 11:43

Making a

TOILE

Check the fit is perfect before you cut into your lovely fashion fabric. Wendy Gardiner, Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, provides her top tips

toile is a test garment usually made in cheap calico (an old sheet or duvet cover is perfect). It is made up quickly, without facings, buttonholes etc just so you can check that the fit is right for you before you start on expensive fabric. REASONS TO MAKE A TOILE • Check for fit if you have a full bust and need to do a full bust adjustment • Check that bust point is in the right place for you • Check neckline fit and if it needs lowering/making higher, you can do so easily • Check pocket placement • When working with a new, more difficult pattern you sort out any problem areas on the toile • Trouser fitting can be tricky if waist and hip ratio, crotch length and depth are different MEASURE BEFORE YOU START Before starting on the toile take your measurements and choose the pattern size that most closely resembles your size (pattern sizes are not the same as high-street sizes). Remember with multi-size patterns, you can gradually cut from one size line to another to suit your figure variations.

Top tip! Tricky construction can be tested on a toile more easily (Butterick 6168)

For trousers, pin the zip closure rather than inserting a zip in the toile

BUST SIZE If you have a C cup or bigger, take both high bust/chest and bust measurements. High bust is straight across the back underarms and above the bust. Compare this with your full bust measurement because most patterns are sized for a B cup, which is 6cm difference between the high bust and full bust measurement. If you are more than that, choose the pattern by your high bust measurement and do a full bust adjustment. See page 74 to learn how. AMOUNT OF EASE ALLOWED Look for finished garment measurements (on the pattern envelope or on the tissue pieces) to work out the wearing ease and bear this in mind when selecting your size. FABRIC FOR A TOILE Most commonly used is a cheap calico, but bear in mind your fashion fabric and use test fabric with similar properties. For instance, calico is fine for garments to be made out of light/medium weight woven fabric but for jersey knit/stretchy garments, use inexpensive stretch fabric for your toile. Cut out just as you would the fashion fabric – following grain lines, fold lines etc but you do not need the facings or linings, which will save time. Sew darts and seams with a long stitch so they are easy to rip out later. Baste in the zip so that you can fasten your toile. TRY ON YOUR TOILE AND CHECK FIT Check the neckline and shoulder line are as you like them or do they need to be higher or lower? Does it lie flat across the back or do you need to take darts in the back to reduce the width? Remember to consider seam allowances if you haven’t included the sleeves or will be adding facings to your garment. You can either mark the seam allowances with

80 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

80 wendy gardiner v2.indd 80

14/11/2017 17:35

Top tip!

If time is tight, make the bodice only to check fit at the bust and waist for a fitted dress

Always check the neckline and shoulder line position (McCallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 7561)

a marking pen or snip and turn them under to properly visualise the finished neckline/ armhole edge. Remember any adjustment will need to be done to the front and back and sleeves/facings. Check the bust darts are in the right place for you (darts should finish between 13mm and 5cm from the apex of your bust). If they are too high, you can go back to the tissue and move them down. Cut a rectangle around the dart and move it to where it should be for you. Add spare tissue behind the gap created and smooth out the side seam lines. Mark any adjustments you need on the toile â&#x20AC;&#x201C; if seams are to be taken in, pin them to the required size and then use a marking pen to draw the new seam line on front and back pieces. If they are too tight, rip out the seam and re-sew with a smaller seam allowance. Once satisfied, mark the new seam with a marking pen. Once you are happy with the fit of your toile, rip out the stitching and transfer the new seam lines, dart position etc to your pattern tissue pieces ready to lay out onto your fashion fabric (or cut the toile so it has 1.5cm seam allowances and then use it as your pattern template). You are now ready to cut your fashion fabric with confidence.

80 wendy gardiner v2.indd 85

When making a close-fitting bodice with minimal or no ease, a toile can help prevent disasters (Butterick 5882)

ABOUT WENDY GARDINER As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com

14/11/2017 17:35

THE SEW NG SHOP Kent

Cumbria

Derby

Dumfries Romy's Sewing Rooms For all your haberdashery needs. Sewing classes for all ages and abilities.

Open Monday-Saturday 10.00 - 4.00 Makower, Nutex, Lewis & Irene, Fabric Freedom, Timeless Treasures, Springs Creative, Disney, John Louden and more! P and Q Notions, Embroidery & Picture Framing. Small friendly classes, workshops, individual tuition arranged to suit.

Sewing Workshops Sewing Parties and Afternoon Teas Sewing Club Sewing Machine Servicing and Repairs Buy and sell second hand machines Children’s Sewing Workshops 1 to 1 Lessons Customised Gifts and Items

The Hop Farm, Maidstone Road, Paddock Wood, Kent, TN12 6PY 01622 296510

See my website for more www.sewnjo.com Phone: 07760 330843

180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ

www.purple-pixie.co.uk

Gloucestershire

01387250867

romyssewingrooms@gmail.com www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms

Markeaton Park Craft Village, Derby, DE22 3BG

Hampshire

Leicestershire

SEW BUSY

Visit us at...

Reads of Winchester Suppliers of sewing machines. Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned. Many machines on display demonstrations available.

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

Lincolnshire

Tewkesbury

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950 1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

North Devon

Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.

for s e w i n g w o r k s h o p s , fabrics & haberdashery

Branksomewood Road, Fleet, Hampshire GU51 4JS

116 Castle Street, Hinckley, Leicestershire , LE10 1DD 0 1 4 5 5 6 9 8 0 3 4 w w w. t h e s e w i n g c a f e . c o . u k

Scotland

Stansted Essex

Tel: 01252 444220 www.sew-busy.co.uk

Teach Me to Sew Sewing Classes for all 11 Brook Rd Stansted CM24 8BB www.teachmetosew.co.uk tel. 07752209936

11-12 George Arcade, South Molton, Devon, EX36 3AB, 01769 574071 Patchwork and quilting supplies. Classes and workshops. Open 9am - 5pm Monday to Saturday www.stepbystep-quilts.co.uk

Yorkshire

Online

Marshland Fabrics Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts. 1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

www.handmadehappyhare.com

T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E

Closing down! To grab a bargain please visit www.facebook.com/groups/Marshland/

To advertise please contact Noune on 0161 474 6997 or email noune.sarkissian@ practicalpublishing.co.uk

Tel:07507 446333 Email:info@marshlandfabrics.co.uk

82 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47.P82 Classifieds.indd 82

09/11/2017 17:18

We love

STYLE

MINT to be

Have you ever made a pleated skirt? Try this in a midi length for a super-chic look Project ELENA ROSA www.randomlyhappyblog.com

Shopping list Blue pleated viscose, ÂŁ35 per metre www.fabricsforsale.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 83

LS47 skirt V2.indd 83

14/11/2017 17:37

Feather

LIGHT Lightweight fabric such as viscose has a reputation for being tricky to sew. Here are some simple tips for stress-free sewing! 1 Pre-wash and press your fabric as viscose, also known as rayon, will shrink. 2 Rayon is not the easiest to sew, so choose a simple sewing pattern style with fewer seams. 3 Use sharp scissors for cutting out or use a rotary cutter. 4 Change your sewing machine needle to a finer 70/12 size and use fine, sharp pins.

HOW TO MAKE: MATERIALS & TOOLS • 1-1.5m pre-pleated fabric • co-ordinating thread • 1"-wide elastic

NOTES: Seam allowance of 2cm is included unless otherwise stated

1 Measure your waist and multiply this figure by 1.5. Add 2cm to this for the seam allowance. This is the waist measurement. 2 Measure the length you want the skirt to be from your natural waist downwards. Add 2cm to this number for the seam allowance.

This will be the length measurement. 3 Measure the width of your elastic. Double this number and add 2cm for the seam allowance. This will be the elastic height measurement. 4 Cut a rectangle that is as wide as the waist measurement and as long the length measurement. Make

sure the pleats in the prepleated fabric run from top to bottom. Repeat for two rectangles the same size. 5 Place the rectangles RST and sew using a 1cm seam allowance. 6 If you have wide pleats you can press the seams flat and then re-press the pleats. If your fabric is delicate or pleats very narrow you can finger-press the seams open. 7 To make the waistband, cut one rectangle double the length of your waist measurement and the same as the elastic height. The longest edge of the rectangle (the waist measurement) should run across the pleats so the pleats are running from top to bottom like the skirt. 8 Place the two short ends of the rectangle together, RST. Sew together to form a circle and press the seam open using an iron, or finger-press it. 9 Divide the waistband into four equal sections, using a

84 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 skirt V2.indd 84

14/11/2017 17:37

SAVE

20%

ric from on all pleated fab th code wi le Sa Fabrics For sit www. LSPLEAT47. Vi .uk fabricsforsale.co to c De st 31 before ount! claim your disc

Elena says... Who doesn't love a pleated skirt â&#x20AC;&#x201C; especially when you don't have to make the pleating?! Perfect for a last-minute Christmas party invitation or just coffee and mince pies with friends!

pin to mark. Do the same for the skirt, placing pins at the side seams, centre back and centre front. (See Pic A.) Fold the waistband in half with WST. Place the folded waistband over the skirt with RST, matching raw edges. Match the pins of the waistband to the pins of the skirt, ensuring that the waistband seam matches the centre back of the skirt. Sew the waistband to the skirt using a 1cm seam allowance. Stop 5cm from where you started to leave room for elastic. When sewing against pleats (particularly narrow pleats), you may find it helpful to use a longer stitch and pull the fabric taut as you sew. This helps hide your stitches when the pleats fall back into place.

Cut the waistband to fit your waist, leaving an overlap of 2cm. Using a safety pin, insert elastic into the space created by the folded waistband and skirt, checking for twists. (See Pic B.) When the elastic has been inserted, overlap the ends by 2cm and sew together. (See Pic C.) Sew the 5cm opening closed. Iron or finger-press the waistband. Hem the skirt using a 1cm hem, folding the fabric to the WS by 1cm and sewing along the unfolded edge. If you are working with wide pleats, press the pleats out before hemming and iron in place once finished. If you have narrow pleats, set your machine to a longer stitch length and pull the fabric gently as you sew. You can finger-press the hem to finish.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 85

LS47 skirt V2.indd 85

14/11/2017 17:37

ÂŽ

www.sewcreative.org.uk Sew Creative for your Christmas makes & gifts: fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, Janome sewing machines, vouchers, workshops & sew much more!

T: 01730 858 020 E: info@sewcreative.org.uk 20-22 Lavant Street, PetersďŹ eld, Hampshire, GU32 3EW

Rooftop Fabrics are proud to offer an every expanding range of fabrics, including: Plush, Cottons, and other specialist items. Tel: 01420 260036 Email: website@rooftopfabrics.com

www.rooftopfabrics.com

Temptations Craft Boutique An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters 100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting Knitting yarn and haberdashery Courses and workshops Agents for Brother Sewing Machines Visit our shop or buy safely online 31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ Tel: 015242 61868 www.temptationsbentham.co.uk For shop opening times please see our website

86 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47.P86.indd 86

09/11/2017 17:48

FABRIC Embroidered PU from jacket Christmas shirt ÂŁ7, George at Asda ÂŁ60 www.jdwilliams.co.uk

Zip up, Jolly

LOOK GOOD SHARP 33

SAVE

20%

Birdy & Blue specialises in selling bright and inspiring cotton, Personalise this spring-summer carefully chosen with children in biker jacket with our pick of mind and perfect for sewing your sturdy yetcreations stylish for fabric own beautiful your littlest loved ones!

the Blue with at Birdy & o to G irdy47*. code loveb .uk co e. yandblu www.bird is th f o ge nta to take adva t n u co is great d

Fabric Fabric shopping shopping Turquoise Christmas Scatter, Christmas Novelty collection, Makower, ÂŁ3.50 per FQ Snowglobe Forest Pink Vintage Noel Festive Turquoise Copper collection, Blend Fabrics, ÂŁ3.50 per FQ Reindeer, Makower, ÂŁ2.75 per FQCognac Santa, Christmas Novelty Eco leatherette, ÂŁ15 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk 0.55mm-thick leather skin, ÂŁ17 FQ collection, Makower, ÂŁ3 per FQ Turquoise Penguins, Christmas Novelty collection, Makower, ÂŁ3 per per 5ft square www.pittards.com BurgundySkating leatherette, ÂŁ6 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk Mama Makower, Large Stars, Little Monsters collection, per FQ pink 0.7mm-thick leather skin, ÂŁ17 Pink per 5ft square www.pittards.com Spot printÂŁ2.75 mid-blue denim, ÂŁ8.99 per metre www. All fabric is available at www.birdyandblue.co.uk abakhan.co.uk Shell pink soft faux suede, ÂŁ9.80 per metre www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk *Offer ends 28th December 2017

LS47 Fabric focus.indd 87

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 87

14/11/2017 10:39

D S N I AM H E BE E S TH

Balenciaga

shaping fashion at the V&A

With Wendy Ward

Wendy was lucky enough to receive an invitation to the private viewing of the first UK retrospective of one of her all-time favourite designers, Cristóbal Balenciaga

he exhibition at the V&A is curated by Cassie Davies-Strodder. How on earth did little old me get an invitation to such a high profile event you might ask! I kept asking myself the same question! Well, it was all thanks to my lovely friend and fellow Love Sewing columnist Claire-Louise Hardie. While studying for her MA at the London College of Fashion, Claire-Louise and her classmates were involved in a collaborative project with the curators of the Balenciaga exhibition at the V&A and the London College of Fashion. They examined some original Balenciaga garments in detail to try and reproduce them to gain a better understanding of the methods used to make the garments. When Claire-Louise mentioned what she was doing I was in awe and wanted to know all about it, being a huge Balenciaga fan. To my delight, she asked if I’d like to join her for the private viewing of the exhibition!

THE EXHIBITION After speeches from the museum curators, the sponsors along with actress Lesley Manville opened the exhibition and we were allowed inside. The exhibition is arranged in the temporary exhibition space within the museum’s permanent collection. The lower floor contained all the original Balenciaga work and I felt it was a bit of a shame to show it there as it feels rather cramped and dark. Also, from what I remember, everything was behind glass in this part of the exhibition. I can see why this is so (the pieces are very precious), but it does create a feeling of distance from the exhibits. The upper floor was a much better space, being open, light and spacious, and was occupied by work from other designers (current and previous) who have been heavily influenced by Balenciaga.

MY HIGHLIGHTS I always get itchy fingers at exhibitions like this and long to look inside the garments to see how they’re made. The V&A had some original and non-invasive solutions to this, the first being x-rays it had made of some of the key pieces. These were not only beautiful artworks in themselves but also revealed the intricate work on the inside of the garments to often produce deceptively simple-looking shapes on the outside. Some of them also managed to

Take a closer look at Claire Louise’s pieces in issue 48!

Claire Louise’s work is now part of the V&A’s permanent collection

You can just make out the pins left in the hem on the x-ray!

88 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 P88-89.indd 88

14/11/2017 17:16

ABOUT ME I design my own range of easy-tofollow modern sewing patterns called MIY Collection. I am a qualified teacher and also have a degree in fashion and spent seven years working in the fashion industry before starting to teach dressmaking from my own studio called MIY Workshop in Brighton in 2011. I have written two books about dressmaking; A Beginner’s Guide to Making Skirts and The Beginner’s Guide to Dressmaking. Both are available from all good bookshops and my third book will be out in February 2018! www.wendyward.co.uk www.miycollection.com www.miyworkshop.co.uk

reveal lovely little human details, such as pins accidentally left in the hem of the pink tulip dress. Another innovative way of gaining more knowledge about how some of the garments were made was the collaborative project that my lovely host Claire-Louise had worked on with the London College of Fashion. Beautifully detailed videos were made of Claire-Louise and her fellow students recreating pieces from the collection. Makers will really appreciate this insight into how meticulous Balenciaga was in his making and in his pattern drafting to create such original silhouettes and shapes. I really would have liked to have seen more of all this as I wasn’t so keen on the upstairs part of the exhibition which was full of work by designers influenced by Balenciaga. Yes, I can see why it was included, but I think it could have been given less prominence within the exhibition. Balenciaga’s body of work wasn’t small and how it developed over the years (this exhibition does focus on the latter part of his output) is so fascinating that I do think the emphasis should have been more on the work of Balenciaga at this, the first UK retrospective of his work. BALENCIAGA THE DESIGNER Balenciaga was often called ‘the designer’s designer’ and his skill and craftsmanship is still admired throughout the design world. He was one of those now-rare fashion designers who was also a highly skilled maker. He

started to sew as a child with his mother, who was a seamstress, and at only age 12 he became an apprentice tailor.

Original notes and samples by Balenciaga

Balenciaga had a strong vision and challenged many accepted 'norms' of feminine beauty, kicking back against the prevalent silhouettes that surrounded him from other designers, most notably the hourglass shape popularised by Dior. Balenciaga created his own pared-down (some considered at the time radical) silhouettes in which he attempted to work with the space surrounding the body, rather than making the body conform to some accepted notion of shape. Some of his most well known and innovative silhouettes include: the Tent, the Sack, the Barrel, the Balloon and the Cocoon – even the names tell you something about their level of comfort and wearability! Many of his designs are like a blend of fashion and sculpture; he made seemingly impossible shapes and silhouettes from fabric look effortless through clever 'engineering' on the inside.

His early training and his shy character meant Balenciaga was not a designer who flounced around producing fantastical drawings that were then handed over for someone else to figure out how to make, he was more than capable of cutting the patterns and making the garments himself. Given Balenciaga’s reputation, success and the esteem in which he’s been held, I’m surprised that this exhibition is the first ever UK retrospective of his work.

FIND OUT MORE The V&A exhibition is on until 18th February, entry is £12 and there are some excellent resources, videos and further information about the exhibition on the V&A website: www. vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/balenciagashaping-fashion

Both the V&A and Met (Metropolitan Museum of Art) have excellent online collections both of which contain many pieces by Cristóbal Balenciaga: collections.vam.ac.uk www.metmuseum.org/art/collection just search 'Balenciaga' www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 89

LS47 P88-89.indd 89

14/11/2017 17:16

English Garden

A Quilting Cotton Collection Internationally recognised as a leader in print design and textiles, Liberty Fabrics have been creating original and inspiring designs since 1875.

‘The English Garden’ is a collection of floral designs created specifically for quilting. Some of the printed designs are redrawn artworks from our archive, their roots dating back to the early 1900s.

The base quality ‘Lasenby’ Cotton is 100% cotton quality specifically woven for sewers.

The collection of coordinating accessories include pin cushions, sewing boxes and scissor pouches and make a perfect gift for any quilting enthusiast.

To find your local stockist visit www.eqsuk.com or call 0116 271 0033 Proudly distributed by EQS Ltd. 90 www.quiltnow.co.uk

LS47.P90.indd 90

09/11/2017 14:59

READERS'

Hazel

These pooches are ste aling the show in their adorable doggy coats from issue 45. “Thank you for the lovely doggy coat pattern, we love them! Mumma used fabric from her wo rk and lined them in wool to keep us cosy! We’re going to the park to sho w them off!" Cookie & Alfie x

Star make

ildman make Lesley W l this beautifu

Check out oral e love her fl by Lesley. W atshirt e sw e on of th y interpretati e 45. Lesle ured in issu , e ak m pattern feat ic st hat a fanta tells us: “W ther.” started ano y ad I've alre

Elena Gratton

Elena looks love ly in her version of the Butterick 6318 pattern from issue 43. Sh e said: “Just finished my Butte rick 6318! Roll on spring is all I can say!”

Suernsdnaupss! yo

£25 TO WIN A

Karen Caddick

version of our Take a look at Karen’s issue 45, a perfect m fro n ter sweatshirt pat er. Karen said: design for autumn/wint from Higgs and ric fab “Love this! I used lly lovely to wear. rea t, sof so it’s Higgs and cuffs, waistband I bought rib fabric for the ver worked with ne e hav and neckline and pleased I used it this before but I’m really finish.” ely because it gives a lov

DLE FABRIC BUN VA FROM MINER CRAFTS

Lorna asked you...

Aleksandra Wawrzynczyk

Aleksandra’s version of the pencil skirt from Sew It Vintage loo ks stunning. If you love this loo k, make sure you check out our Sew It Vintage bookazine, find it at www. moremags.com/new-relea ses/sv1

Are you crafting for Christmas? A –YES! CHRISTMAS HAS EXPLODED IN MY SEWING ROOM. B –THE CHRISTMAS PARTY OUTFIT IS UNDERWAY... Get in touch C –I'LL DO A BIT HERE AND letters@lovesewingmag.co.uk THERE - YOU CAN'T EXPECT SANTA TO DO IT ALL! D –WAKE ME WHEN CHRISTMAS IS OVER

LS47 P91 Readers makes.indd 91

A 64% B 21%

C 1%

D 14% 14/11/2017 17:47

We love

KIDS

Shake your BOOTEES Find some scraps of plaid and denim and get ready to accept the best-dressed baby award! Project LENA VOLODIEVA KENAREVA-NIKIFOROVA

92 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 P92.indd 92

14/11/2017 16:29

MATERIALS & TOOLS: 20x30cm midweight denim 15x23cm check fabric 35x30cm lining fabric 15x18cm wadding 50cm linen or cotton yarn for laces • hand-sewing/darning needle • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk • • • • •

CUTTING: From check fabric, cut: • 2 upper front pieces From lining fabric, cut: • 2 upper front pieces • 2 upper back pieces • 2 sole pieces From denim, cut: • 2 upper back pieces • 2 sole pieces From wadding, cut: • 2 sole pieces

NOTES: Seam allowances are 6mm unless otherwise stated

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Place the upper front check fabric and lining pieces RST and sew around the edge. Clip around the curves and turn RS out. Top-stitch at 2mm around the edge.

2 Place the upper back pieces of denim and lining RST and stitch together around the sides and top. Clip around the curves. Turn RS out and press. Top-stitch at 2mm around the edge. (See Pic A.) 3 Mark the fabric where the upper parts join. Pin the upper back over the upper front on both sides. (See Pic B.) Top-stitch over the decorative topstitching. 4 Layer the sole pieces to create a sandwich, with the denim RS facing down, followed by wadding and lining, RS facing up, on the top. Pin or baste to hold the sandwich together. 5 Turn so that the denim side is on top. Place the upper front over the sole and match front centre marks. Pin all the way around. (See pics C and D.) 6 Stitch with a 1.5mm stitch all the way around 6mm from the edge. Trim the seam allowance to 3mm and finish with a zigzag stitch over the trimmed edge. (See Pic E.) 7 Turn the show RS out and press the sole seam. Thread your needle with the yarn and lace the bootees as you would your shoes. (See Pic F.) And voila, your bootees are ready!

Top tip!

To add extra warmth, why not sew a little fleece around the top of the bootee?

This project includes patterns for newborns through to to nine-month-old babies

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 93

LS47 P92.indd 93

14/11/2017 16:29

YES! I want to subscribe to: Die-cutting Essentials.....................4 issues £19.99

SAVE £19.97

Simply Cards & Papercraft ........6 issues £19.99

SAVE £15.95

The perfect

Papercraft Essentials.......................6 issues £19.99

SAVE £15.95

Knit Now ..................................................5 issues £19.99

SAVE £9.96

Quilt Now ................................................6 issues £19.99

SAVE £15.95

Creative Stamping............................4 issues SAVE £19.99 £11.97 Love Sewing .........................................6 issues £19.99

4 issues for just

£19.99

SAVE £15.95

SAVE £19.97

6 issues for just

£19.99

SAVE £15.95

Crochet Now.........................................6 issues £19.99

SAVE £15.95

Sew Now .................................................6 issues £19.99

SAVE £15.95

Send to: (If buying as a gift, please include the payer’s address on a separate sheet) MR/MRS/MISS FIRST NAME ................................ .................................................. SURNAME................................................................................................................... ADDRESS .................................................................................................................... ................................................................................... POSTCODE.............................. TELEPHONE................................................................................................................ EMAIL ..........................................................................................................................

PLEASE CHOOSE YOUR METHOD OF PAYMENT:

Die-cutting Essentials Britain’s No.1 die-cutting & embossing magazine

4 issues for just

£19.99

1. CHEQUE/POSTAL ORDER

SAVE £11.97

Simply Cards & Papercraft The No.1 cardmaking magazine

6 issues for just

£19.99

SAVE £15.95

I enclose a cheque/postal order payable to ‘Practical Publishing Int Ltd’ for £_____

2. CREDIT/DEBIT CARD Please debit my Visa/Mastercard/Maestro Card No.

Valid from/Issue No.

Expiry date

CARDHOLDER’S SIGNATURE......................................................................................

Creative Stamping The UK’s No.1 stamping magazine

Love Sewing The UK’s No.1 sewing magazine

SEND TO: (no stamp required in the UK) Practical Publishing Int Ltd, Tower House, Sovereign Park, Market Harborough, Leicestershire LE16 9EF Your subscription will commence with the next available issue. UK offer only. *Savings up to 50% applies to selected magazines. †Value of gifts varies by title up to the value of £25 I DO want Practical Publishing Int Ltd to contact me by email telephone post Tick this box if you do wish to receive promotional material from carefully selected third party companies

LS47 P94 Reader offer.indd 94

Quote code: XMMCXM17

Offer expires 31/01/2018

Ordering is quick and easy...

Call 01858 438899

Quote code: XMMCXM17

14/11/2017 10:46

gift this Christmas 6 issues for just

£19.99

SAVE £15.95

Papercraft Essentials Britain’s best-selling papercraft magazine

£19.99

SAVE £9.96

SAVE £15.95

Crochet Now The UK’s No.1 magazine for crochet patterns

6 issues for just

£19.99

Sew Now Sewing your style, your way

6 issues for just

£19.99

SAVE £15.95

Quilt Now Britain’s No.1 guide to fabric and patchwork

Knit Now The UK’s No.1 for knitting patterns

6 issues for just

£19.99

5 issues for just

CRAFTY CHRISTMAS GIFT IDEAS FOR UNDER £20!

SAVE £15.95

Find the perfect crafty Christmas gift in a flash ❉ Save up to 50% on the cover price* ❉ FREE gifts with every issue worth up to £25† ❉ Each issue is delivered direct to your recipient’s door – the gift that keeps on giving! ❉ Easy to buy – order online, over the phone or by post! ❉ You will receive a gift card to personalise and send to your friend

www.moremags.com/xm17 LS47 P94 Reader offer.indd 95

14/11/2017 10:46

Next month in

Sizes

6-22

T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E

FREE PATTERN!

McCall's 7415

worth £8.95 Inspiring articles, projects and guides: P Must-sew corduroy skirt P Sari silk ribbon handbag tutorial P Ombré heart patchwork cushion P Learn the history of the amazing Palmer Pletsch fitting technique

Plus much more! LS46 Next IssueV2.indd 96

14/11/2017 17:50

ISSUE 48 ON SALE 28TH DEC 2017

Fly me away

TAPE MEASURE See page 26 to subscribe

Fast and fun

CARD WALLET

Simple Sew

RUFFLE DRESS sizes 8-20

Light as a feather EMBROIDERED BAG y Gardiner Top tips and techniques from Claire-Louise Hardie P Expert guidance from Wend P In-depth articles from Wendy Ward P Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castro Peake P Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE P Behind the scenes with Jade Earley *All contents subject to change.

LS46 Next IssueV2.indd 97

14/11/2017 17:50

We love

HOME

Winter

WARMER Create a quickmake potholder for Christmas using all your festive fabric scraps Project ELIZABETH WYATT www.ebethwyatt.com

wadding with right edges even with the line drawn in Step 1. • 12 1¼x10” strips in Stitch through all layers along assorted fabric the right edge of the strips with • 10” square backing fabric a ¼” seam allowance. • 10” square Insul-Bright 3 Flip the top strip so that it is insulated lining lying flat against the wadding. • 10” square cotton wadding Press. Place the next strip face • 24” ½”-wide double-fold bias tape down over the strip on the right, • 4x6” grey fabric for ornament top with right edges even. Stitch • 2x5½” strip grey fabric for through all layers along the hanging loop right edge of that strip with a ¼” • templates downloaded from seam allowance. Press open. www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 4 Continue adding strips in this way until you have sewn HOW TO MAKE: on seven strips. 1 Stack the three 10” squares 5 Flip the piece around and with the backing RS down on continue adding strips to the the bottom, Insul-Bright (shiny left side until the wadding is side up) in the middle and mostly covered and all 12 strips cotton wadding on top. Draw a are sewn on. line from top to bottom of the 6 Lay the template on top of wadding, 5¼” from the left. the piece with the dotted centre 2 Align two strips RST and line matched up with the centre place them on the cotton seam of the strips. Cut out the

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

ornament shape along the traced outline. 7 Unfold the bias tape so you have a single layer of fabric on one edge. Align and pin the unfolded edge of the bias tape along the outside edge on the back of the potholder with RST. Start pinning bias tape at the corner where the square topper shape meets the round ornament edge. Leave an unpinned tail about 1” long. Pin all the way around, ending with a free tail. Stitch with a 3/8” seam allowance. 8 Flip the bias tape around to cover the stitching line. Steam-press to shape and pin in place. 9 Working on the front of the potholder, stitch the bias tape down about 1/8” from the edge.

Fold the 2½x5½” grey fabric strip in half lengthwise and press. Open and fold each edge to the centre crease. Refold in half and stitch along the long edge. Using the template, cut two bauble tops from grey fabric. Turn curved bottom edges under by ¼” and press. Fold hanger in half with the two raw edges together. Place the folded hanger in between the two top pieces, centred on the top edge and raw edges even. Pin and stitch the three straight sides with a ¼” seam allowance. Clip corners. Turn the top RS out and press. Slide the top over the hot pad, tucking bias tape tails inside. Pin along the curved edge. Stitch through all layers along the curved edge, being sure to catch the back layer in the stitching.

98 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS47 p98.indd 98

14/11/2017 17:03

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 99

LS47.P99.indd 99

09/11/2017 14:48

LS47.P100.indd 100

09/11/2017 14:45