30 PAGES OF CHRISTMAS TREATS FOR YOU TO STITCH! WIN £7,350+
of BIG BRAND PRIZES inside! NOVEMBER 2017 ISSUE 104 £5.99
Christmas
Make your new party dress! Easy styles 10 you need this season
x
FREE PATTERN IN SIZES
s two Only use s! p pattern iece
Make in just one evening!
CAPEAPHOTO WINTERGUIDE SCENE Plus! NOVELTY FELT IDEAS · BARGAIN FABRIC BUYS · SEW
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Hello... November I’m just loving autumn! We’ve already had some gorgeous days and the turn of the season is enough to make you feel excited for the rest of the year. It’s the perfect time to spruce up your wardrobe with our choice of garments. As well as your FREE New Look pattern, which offers four flattering dresses, you’ll find other frocks, a top, skirt and cape – all suited to a vast range of materials. If you choose your fabric wisely and take your time, you can make a piece that you’ll cherish forever. Elsewhere, we look at the trench coat (p90), then venture to the 1940s and explore how sewing habits have changed (p42) – it really makes you think of those who served our country, and how we are able to sew for pleasure now. This issue comes with The Good Sewing Machine Guide 2017, so if a new model is on your wish list this year, why not do some tactical circling with a highlighter and leave it around the house? Or failing that, go and treat yourself. December 25th is drawing nearer, so we’ve got gift ideas galore... find a macaron purse, teddy bear, craft caddy, robin book stand, leather wallet, baby rattles, and lots more. The time has come to vote in the British Sewing Awards 2017, so please have your say! You’ll receive the project for Alice, our flowerchild on the left – she’s really easy to stitch. Please also tell us about the Sew Saturday event you attended on 21st October – we’ll be bringing you our round-up of the day next issue, so get in touch with your photos and to nominate the store you went to for a prize. Thanks to all of you for supporting your local habby stores!
18
Happy sewing!
24 Nominate a shop into one of the following categories – they could win £50 of Search Press craft books! H Best charity fundraiser H Best window display H Best workshop
Jenny
Jenny Ward, Sew editor
27
You’ll get the FREE project for our flowerchild when you vote in the British Sewing Awards 2017. sewmag.co.uk/awards
sew
free template download
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FOUR STYLES TO STITCH
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sew November 2017
IN THIS ISSUE...
IN EVERY ISSUE TEA BREAK 03 WELCOME Find out what this issue has in store HO, WHAT & WEAR 06 W Keep up to date with the sewing world
15 YOU! SEW SOCIAL As always, we love what you’ve been making – don’t forget to share your photos with us! 48 L OVE YOUR MACHINE Our shopping guide – this month, Pfaff
78 P HOTO GUIDE SWEET WINTER CHALETS Stitch a winter cottage dec
27 VOTE BRITISH SEWING AWARDS 2017 Have your say today!
GIFTS
42 BEHIND THE FOLD LINES A look at sewing and fashion during WWII
52 MACARON PURSE Sew a Bake Off treat that’s almost good enough to eat!
KIDS
64 T HE BOOKSHELF Fuelling your addiction to stitchy titles
57 PHOTO GUIDE TEDDY BEAR Make our toy in just four steps!
72 XMAS LEATHER WALLET AND CARRY ALL Stitch a handy wallet and a little basket – perfect Christmas gifts
89 N EXT MONTH Our December issue’s out on 16th November
73 XMAS BABY RATTLES Three cute animals to entertain your little one
73 XMAS BOBBIN THE ROBIN Create an adorable stand for a book or tablet
68
58 ORANGE PEEL QUILT Stuart Hillard’s gift to you! 59 S TUART HILLARD On turning up the heat...
51 CHARITY FELT POPPY Use your skills to support a commemorative cause
70 CONFESSIONS OF A SEWING ADDICT Corinne has accepted a liberating truth
HOME
60 XMAS CHRISTMAS CHIC Less is more this season 62 XMAS 3 NOVELTY FELT PROJECTS These are sure to make you smile 65 XMAS THE FABRIC EDIT Keep it classic 68 XMAS SUSIE JOHNS’ Give buttonhole stitch a go on a keepsake advent calendar 74 XMAS ALL IS BRIGHT Light up the home with our festive hoop
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DRESSMAKING
34
pages of fashion, garments & more!
FREE THIS MONTH...
WIN! on page 75
Choose from four styles of flattering dresses to get you through the party season, with clever ways of adding detail!
FREEBIES & OFFERS 27 FREE PATTERN BRITISH SEWING AWARDS 2017 Vote to get your hands on an exclusive project 66 G IFT SUBSCRIBE TODAY Get a FREE 10m Christmas fabric bundle PLUS two bonus gifts 75 BUMPER GIVEAWAYS We have £7,350 worth of prizes, and they’re all FREE to enter!
09 COVER STAR VERSATILE DRESSES Stitch four dresses for any occasion with your FREE New Look pattern
44
86 FREE BOOK Claim Fabric Stash Cuties and sew pretty bird projects
18 N O PATTERN RIA DRESS Try your hand at stitching velvet with this easy make 20 STRIKE A CORD Our pick of the best! 22 LIBERTY BECKY TOP Stitch an easy button-back blouse
90 75% OFF SIMPLICITY 8472 Buy this gorgeous trench coat pattern for only £2.24!
24 NO PATTERN ADA SKIRT Master box pleats with this made-to-measure garment
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29 S TITCH THE LOOK: ELEGANT LACE Master working with this pretty fabric 31 LEARN WITH YOSHIKO TSUKIORI Stitch the lacey Lauren dress 32 INDIE PATTERN NEWS Don’t miss the team’s top picks this month 35 LAUREN GUTHRIE Our columnist asks, what brings you stitchy nostalgia? 36 S EWING SOS Get the hang of chunky fabrics before the chill sets in! 39 MASTERCLASS HATTIE CAPE The ultimate project for first-time liners
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44 RITA DRESS Recreate a gorgeous frock straight from the 1940s 84 YOUR SEWING GUIDE Sew like a pro! 90 THE TRENCH COAT From Burberry to the battle field, then straight to our wardrobes
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wear
who what
&
The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!
Get kitted out for Christmas If decorating your own festive jumper sounds right up your street, grab a couple of friends or relatives to indulge in an afternoon of felt fun. This kit contains enough material to make three reindeer motifs. £14.50, claracreate.com
CAST YOUr VOTE!
Thank you to everyone who took the time to nominate this year for the British Sewing Awards 2017! Congratulations to Noreen Mackay and Janet Halls, who have each won afternoon tea with a friend, worth £34.99 from Buyagift Smart Boxes, and Lorraine Binnion who has won a fab selection of sewing goodies worth £105! Voting is now open – every voter will receive the pattern for our adorable flowerchild toy Alice, and there are plenty more great prizes to be won as well! Turn to p27 to find out more or visit sewmag.co.uk/awards
I AM AFRICA
This gorgeous capsule collection by Paris-based indie pattern label I Am is a showcase of clever cuts and flattering lines that are wellsuited to wax fabrics and bright, colourful patterns. The eight garments are Hestia skirt, Cassiopée dress, Artemis coat, Apollon sweatshirt and dress, Hermes shirt and dress, Celeste top and dress (pictured), Joy blouse, and Jain top and dress. Patterns from £10.71, iampatterns.fr
Easy Quilting
Save precious time with the AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter – it allows you to easily, accurately and safely die cut up to six layers of cotton at once. The starter kit comes with three dies, a cutting mat, die pick and pattern book, so you can get creating right away. £249.99, createandcraft.com
master plan We know that organisation is key when it comes to a crafty Christmas. It has also been proven that if your planner is attractive, you’re more likely to look at it and thus complete all of your tasks! This festive diary comes with cute stickers, note pads, star paperclips, glitter tape and a silver gel pen to help you stay on task in this year’s run-up. £9.99, craftstoreuk.com 06
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if you buy one pattern... We love Finnish pattern label Named’s new geometryinspired Earth Science collection. The eight gorgeous garments offer both comfort and wearability , with interesting and attractive structures that are exciting to sew and make for an impressive finished article. What’s more, all patterns are available from sizes 4 to 18 or 22. We’ll be rushing off to stitch the lovely Agate first!
want it, need it, BUY IT!
November’s big product release is the Cricut Maker, an electronic cutting machine that can even slice easily though heavy leather. It not only cuts – it also transfers markings onto the wealth of sewing patterns in the Cricut Library, which includes hundreds from Simplicity – just take the fabric to your machine to stitch it up! £379.99, uk.cricut.com
Agate pencil dress, £16, backstitch.co.uk
YOUR Sew Saturday
Bargain
FABRIC BUYS!
It’s finally here, our long-awaited celebration of the shops that keep the stitching community alive! Don’t forget to share your photos from Saturday 21st October with us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter @sewhq – using the hashtag #SewSaturday – or email editorial@sewmag.co.uk with your two cents on the festivities. Plus, get in touch to nominate a store you went to for best charity fundraiser, window display or workshop!
Scandi Christmas The new Scandi Christmas fabric collection by Rose & Hubble is adorable, featuring everything you’d expect – reindeer, snowflakes and hearts – but something about it being red with cream, rather than white, gives it a much softer look. From £8 per metre, plushaddict.co.uk
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Festive Glamour Collection May Martin wearing Fabric Lands' Sequin Blitz Lopho, from our festive season glamour collection. 119CM WIDE £9.99MTR. THE PATTERN MAY USED WAS NEW LOOK 6261 @ £6.95
"This fabric gives instant sparkle to a special occasion. I found it difficult to choose from the many gorgeous colours. I was impressed with how well it seamed and pressed.” - May. May has been a loyal customer of Fabric Land for many years, choosing to wear our brand gives our products great integrity. As usual May is Sew on Trend!
Buy in stores or online at www.fabricland.co.uk
sew DRESSMAKING
dress
the
making
collection cover sew
This issue, we’re bringing classic pieces to your wardrobe that promise timeless appeal. Start with our no-pattern box-pleated skirt and velvet dress, try a button-back blouse and a boiled wool cape, or make up a dress – choose from four styles in your FREE pattern, stitch a pretty lace number or give a vintage 40s style a whirl! Ada skirt, p24
Becky blouse, p22
Rita dress p44
Ria dress, p18
star
your free pattern
Turn the page to get started!
help
here to
Hattie cape, p39
DEBBIE SHORE
MAXINE SMITH
SARAH MAGILL
LISA COMFORT
The stitchy super star shares her top tips for sewing denim.
Discover the many merits of lace with Maxine Smith of Fabric Land.
The fashion historian takes us on a fascinating trip to the 1940s!
Vintage-lover Lisa advises on working with corduroy fabrics.
P36
P29
P42
P37
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\
of your
Discover the
pattern
potential
your free pattern
FREE
Whether you need a family dinner outfit or are planning a big night out, your FREE DRESS PATTERN worth £6.95 is perfect for the occasion. Master DRAPEY FABRICS and installing an INVISIBLE ZIPPER in this project, which offers a knee-length pleated skirt, boat neckline, THREE SLEEVE OPTIONS and the choice of a fitted bodice or one with asymmetric gathers. It looks stunning and may seem tricky to achieve, but it’s actually GREAT FOR BEGINNERS!
ZIP it We couldn’t resist the gloss of Gütermann Sulky Rayon 40 in shade 1095. £2.70, minervacrafts.com
Invisible zips are a really neat fastener to add to your garment, and aren’t as tricky to install as you might think. It’s worthwhile getting the right machine foot for the job so you can stitch as close to the teeth as possible – so look out for an invisible zipper foot instead of a regular one. To avoid gathers, keep the fabric taut and zipper tape loose whilst you stitch.
the silver LINING
the right THREAD
Lining your dress hides the raw edges inside, giving it a luxurious feel and making it more comfortable to wear. Opt for a smooth, lightweight fabric that has similar properties to your main material and won’t affect the overall drape of your garment.
The best thread for your project will depend on the fabric you choose. With satin or sateen fabrics, it’s important to use a fine high-quality one. Thread generally comes in two weights, 30 and 40. The lower number is actually the thicker thread, so we used a 40-weight version.
go to great LENGTHS
you need a NEEDLE
Your machine will probably have a default stitch length of around 2.5mm, but as a general rule it is best to shorten this to 2mm for lightweight fabrics like satin. This creates a stronger and tighter seam that will hold the delicate fabric together.
Always match the size of your needle to the fabric you’re using. If you opt for a delicate material like satin, use size 60 needles to avoid puckering or snagging. As a rule, it’s an idea to pop in a new one for each project – or after eight hours of sewing time – it makes a huge difference and they are a lot cheaper to replace than your fabric!
We used this Prada self-lined stretch fabric in teal, £13.99 per metre, minerva crafts.com
give it a REST If using a fabric with stretch, lay it out on a flat surface for a while before cutting to make sure it isn’t distorted, which can cause fitting problems later on. If it doesn’t all fit on your cutting surface, divide your fabric into manageable sections before snipping the individual pattern pieces.
Hemline extra fine universal machine needles, £2.19 for five, minerva crafts.com
Use brush-away chalk to transfer markings onto silky fabrics. Clover tailor’s chalk, contact clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk 10
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Satin does not self-heal well, so prevent snags by using pins for delicate fabrics. Clover silk pins, £5.99 for 100, minervacrafts.com
E
sew DRESSMAKING
6 pattern
your free pattern
style selector
pieces!
d
With two bodice and three sleeve options, why not mix and match to create your ideal look?
style a
PARTY READY With an asymmetrical gathered bodice, this ruched half-sleeve gown has enough detail on its own – you won’t need much more than a long necklace and a clutch.
why we made STYLE D
The simple bodice allowed us to focus on getting a neat finish with our satin, whilst the skimming cap sleeves made it feel more like an occasion dress!
style b
ckets In -seamsipo gl n y easy are surpri to insert!
CLASSIC STYLE Possibly the most glamorous of the set, the sleeveless bodice would make a wonderful LBD, accessorised à la Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
A
A
style c A
B
RETRO SWEET Stitch this easy version in lightweight linen, then add pumps and a cardi for an instant ‘butter wouldn’t melt’ sweetheart style. Victory rolls optional, A but a wise addition.
C
B C
style d
C KARMA CHAMELEON The components in this dress – the cap sleeves, simple bodice and pleated skirt – strike a perfect balance that makes it adaptable to any occasion. C
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D
D
the perfect
size
the right your free pattern
fit
what’s your size? Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.
s the gathersinst Tack acrosth w ey fall aalgastitch and check ho your body before the fin
don’t go bust! For ladies with a fuller bust, choose the bodice size that corresponds with your high bust measurement then make a full bust adjustment so everything fits well. There is a great guide on Simplicity’s website that explains how to do this.
add some flare If you prefer a skirt with more volume, cut the skirt pieces in the next size up, then deepen each pleat a little until the width of the waistband matches that of the bodice. You could also gradually extend the angle of the side seams to create a more flared shape, as well as adding length to the skirt by extending it down.
EXTRA TIPS FOR SEWING SATIN
3 Iron as little as possible on the wrong side as heat can make it glossy. 3 Store your satin rolled, rather than folded, to prevent creasing. 3 Avoid using steam because satin is susceptible to water staining. 3 Unpicking stitches is likely to leave a hole in the fine weave. Make a muslin mock-up beforehand to avoid this. 3 Wash your fabric on a delicate cycle before cutting, but neaten the edges prior to this to prevent excess fraying.
neck and neck Boat necklines look sophisticated, but they aren’t for everyone. Simply measure down the centre-front (where you will cut the pattern on the fold) to the amount you would like to lower the neckline by. Use a French curve to draw a line up to the shoulder seam for the new shape.
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sew DRESSMAKING
attention
to
detail
Bargain
FABRIC BUYS!
why not
try...
floral brocade
For champagne style on a lemonade budget, try this floral digital print brocade. £5.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
YAY FOR POCKETS!
A dress with pockets is the stuff of dreams, and these in-seam delights are cleverly concealed. Why not use the pocket bag template piece to give other patterns in your stash a touch of pocket power?
daisy chain
Necklace, £14, Miss Selfridge, Shoes from a selection at Debenhams, Bag, model’s own
Perfect for a daytime tea dress, this drapey viscose is both delicate and fun. £4.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
try texture
Add interest by opting for this emerald green brocade with textured dots. £9.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
TURN TO P84 FOR MORE USEFUL FITTING AND MEASURING ADVICE
Next month’s FREE pattern
SEW AN OUTFIT
Stitch a long or half-sleeve jacket, waistcoat, dress and pair of trousers, available in dress sizes 8-18. 13
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5 fab styles
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sew YOU!
You have the best tips for finding bargain fabric and we’re loving your makes this month! Robyn Nicoll
I used indigo dye on , a two old duvet covers ite, denim blue and a wh m then transformed the into a shibori quilt.
I travel to the UK from Australia to buy lots of Cath Kidston fabric. It isn’t cheap, but it’s worth it!
Vicky Myers
I bought brushed jersey at a market in France for €4 a metre and the New Look 6471 pattern that came free with Sew 102 was so perfect for the material that I made it up whilst on holiday! I tapered the tie ends and added a bell flare to the sleeves to give a longer line – it reminded me of the 60 and 70s, hence the pose! Di Kendall
I made an adorable sewing-themed dress and matching bow for my ‘seamstress in training’ Grandbaby. Donna Leng
For my local ‘sewcial’ night out on Saturday, I made this matching skirt and top combo! Kari Erasmus
This cutlery wrap is perfect for my motorhome as it rolls up and folds away, which both saves space and stops any rattling whilst it’s in transit. The fabric was from a pack of 100% cotton tea towels from Aldi! Yvonne Abbs
choose a name with p73 Say Hell o to Bobbin!
Each month on Facebook we ask you to help us choose a name for our monthly mascot. This month, Sew reader Huw Jenkins helped us out by choosing a name for our handy holder, Bobbin! It was tough deciding from all of your suggestions, but we couldn’t resist this one... Help us choose a name for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq 15
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Huw has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira. co.uk
Continued overleaf
ng
social
Sponsored by Minerva Crafts
www.minervacrafts.com
Write in and WIN! I love stitching things for new babies.
I made a quillow (a lap quilt and a pillow) for my friend who is wheelchairbound. I’m very new to quilting but I’m loving how quickly the patterns emerge.
My daughter’s wedding is in less than two weeks, so I’ve been busy working on dresses. These are for the flower girls, and I’m now completing the wedding dress and five bridesmaids’ ones. Sharon Bragg
H
Betty Howard King
ly! blooming love
Here’s a kimono jacket I stitched to start my new job in style. Chantal Lapointe
Lucie Nicholson
Amy Walker
I prevent excess spending on fabrics by only buying ones I have a pattern in mind for.
great hack
LOOKING COOL
I made this jersey is a be rib d dress which o tw m fro ck ha pattern a patterns. The top is ns tto Bu e th d Tilly an is Agnes and the skirt It er Ov w Se e from th Phoebe dress. Tina Le Tissier
Here’s my latest take on the shortsleeved version of Grainline Studio’s Lark Tee in chic stripes! Hayley Moore
This is my take on the Sophia dress from Sew’s October issue. Jess Parker
on the sew blog... New!
New!
New!
this month Who doesn’t love having everything you need for a project?
We know you’ll love Named’s new pattern collection Earth Science!
Don’t miss our round-up of bargain fabrics you need in your stash.
Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 16
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sew YOU! This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com
HHHH HH
READERS’ CHOICE
The votes have been counted and your favourite garment from issue 103 was Connie! Look out for the next poll on our Facebook page.
sew
H
STAR letter
H
My daughter asked me to make some hanging storage for the cot of my first grandchild. I went on your website and, sure enough, found the ideal template! She was thrilled with the result. Loraine Mason
stitch&share
e r sunshin hoping fo wi hand at se ng
triumphs with Sew! hy itc st st te la ur yo e Shar
e to try my I have been desperatI saw the Sophia dress in the with scuba and whenw, I knew it was the one. With October issue of Se ’ve been promised, I decided we the Indian summer e a sleeveless version in this that I would creat Minerva Crafts. Being a busy m and now fabulous material fro relaxing is to sew – manner of y wa teacher, my all in king this dress I can see myself ma s. Thanks for the pattern! ur lo co nt of differe nd Sarah Sutherla
Thanks for sharing Loraine, you’ve won a bundle of fat quarters from Gütermann!
top dog My friend’s dog Bailey looks great as appliqué. Sarah Hill
Charmaine West
Searching for vintage fabrics on eBay is a good way to find a bargain.
something new Here’s my first go at making a painted and free-motion quilted cushion.
Helen Brown
Visit roaf.org I would like to say thank you to Sew reader Graciete Amaro, who made these ten lovely rag dolls for the Calico Kate Sew Saturday event in support of the Romanian Aid Foundation. Kate Barnes, Calico Kate
I go to the market for my fabric, my local one in Leicester sells polycotton for £2 a metre.
Delphine Brooks
off to a good start I made some tissue holders! I’m only a beginner but I loved stitching them. Lindsey Bluff
Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 17
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Turn luxe fabric into a
RIA DRESS
stitch a PARTY DRESS
You don’t need to spend hours stitching darts or complicated detailing for a great party outfit – in fact, this comfy yet glam half-sleeve shift dress requires very little shaping at all. The real wow-factor of this garment, designed by Julia Claridge, lies in the texture and slight sheen of the stretch velvet. It isn’t too tricky to work with, either. Simply finish the raw edges and work in a shallow zigzag throughout.
Get started
Cutting diagram
• Stretch velvet*
• 12mm single-fold bias binding, 70cm
Front and Back
*Quantity depends on size and length. A size 10-12 (90cm hips) used 1.4m of 133cm wide fabric.
Shoulder point
BACK NECKLINE
Sizes
FRONT NECKLINE
Custom-sized FOLD
Cutting guide
Note: start by taking your bust and hip measurements. The largest of these will be measurement A Front/back panel: cut two (divide measurement A by four, add 3cm = width) x (desired length* plus 3.5cm) on the fold Sleeve: cut two 24.5cm x 32cm rectangles *Side of neck to hem length
1/4 of measurement A+ 3cm
Shoulder point
Sleeve 5cm
1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.
1
Cut out all the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. With the front/back panels folded lengthways, right sides together, measure 13cm in from the fold along the top and mark the side of the neckline on each piece. Measure 3cm, then a further 24.5cm, down from the top along the raw edges, then mark each point for the shoulder and armhole. Mark 12cm from the bottom of each raw edge for the side vents.
2
On the back panel fold, mark 1.5cm down from the top edge. Use a curved ruler to draw to the side of the neckline. Repeat on the front, beginning 8.5cm down from the top edge. Cut the neckline on both pieces.
Half sleeve
There’s also the option to either omit the sleeves entirely or alter them to your desired length!
3
Fold a sleeve in half, right sides together. Measure 5cm down the raw edge, then draw a curve from this point to the top of the opposite folded side (see diagram). Mark 18cm out from the cuff fold, then draw a straight line joining this point to the outer edge of the curve (the 5cm point from earlier) to taper the sleeve. Repeat on the second sleeve and cut both.
4
Neaten the raw edges at the shoulder and side seams, then pin the front and back
pieces right sides together and stitch each shoulder seam. Turn right sides out, pin bias binding around the neckline, matching the raw edges, then stitch along the binding’s fold line and turn it inside the dress. Pin in place, then edgestitch around.
5
Lay the sleeve flat on top of the dress, right sides together, matching the centre to the shoulder seam. Pin, then stitch in place. Lay the front and back pieces right sides together,
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then match and pin the underarm and side seams. Beginning at a sleeve cuff, stitch in one continuous line to the vent marking. Clip the curves and press the seam allowance open.
6
Neaten the raw base edge. Fold up 2cm at the bottom of each vent and tack in place before turning up and pinning the rest of the hem. Turn the dress right sides out and stitch around the hem and vents. Neaten the raw edge of each sleeve, then turn 2cm over to the wrong side and stitch around.
sew DRESSMAKING
do the MATHS
The following is based on a size 10-12 with a desired length of 92cm. If the largest of the bust and hips is 90cm, measurement A is 90. Front/back panel: (90 ÷ 4 = 22.5, + 3* = 25.5) x (92 + 3.5** = 95.5) 25.5cm x 95.5cm *Extra 3cm is for ease (1.5cm x 4 = 6cm total) and seam allowance (1.5cm). ** Extra 3.5cm length is for hem (2cm) and seam allowance (1.5cm).
Bracelet £14 Mood by Jon Richard at Debenhams, Bag , £20, Oasis
sew
SHOPPER ************************
VELVETY SMOOTH This velour velvet features a stunning floral arrangement and has a good four-way stretch. £11.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!
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strike a
WALE 16
CORD
If you’re looking for a durable fabric that is easy to handle and cosy to wear, corduroy is your best bet. It is made up of twisted threads – often cotton and sometimes with polyester – woven into ribs that run parallel to the selvedge. The ‘wale’ of cord is the number of ridges per metre; generally the lower the wale number, the bigger the rib and the heavier the fabric. Remember that cord has a nap, so avoid flattening the pile by pressing carefully from the wrong side.
4
Finish all raw edges to prevent fraying
21 WA LE
2
21 WALE
1
20 WALE
3
8 WALE
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Star print stretch cotton, £13.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
Cotton in teal, £11.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
Miracle man velvet in pale stone, £7 per metre, croftmill.co.uk
5
Cotton in soft white, £4.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
Cotton corduroy in wine, £9.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
Crest of the slump purple, £6.95 per metre, croftmill.co.uk
Liberty Betsy Ann, £21.95 per metre, sewbox.co.uk
22 WA LE 29 WA
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Use basic sewing techniques to create the
sew
free pattern download
BECKY BLOUSE This easy button-back blouse by Amanda Walker is made up of only five pattern pieces, including interfaced facings that are used to neatly finish the neckline and accomodate the back closure. This creates a more flattering silhouette that promises comfort and wearability. Follow straightforward dart and buttonhole techniques, using zigzag stitch or an overlocker to neaten the seams for a professional finish.
sewmag.co.uk /templates
sew a BUTTONBACK TOP Get started
• Liberty Tana lawn, 1.5m x 1.5m • Fusible interfacing, 50cm • Six buttons
Sizes
Bust
Small
91cm
Medium
95cm
Large
99cm
Cutting guide
Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one pair Back facing: cut one pair each from Tana lawn and interfacing Front neck facing: cut one each on the fold from Tana lawn and interfacing Sleeve: cut one pair 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.
1
Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide, then iron interfacing onto the back and front neck facings. Match these at the shoulders, right sides together, then pin and stitch. Press the seams open, then neaten the outer edges.
2
Stitch darts into the front piece, sewing from the base to the marked points, then repeat on the back piece. Press the
darts towards the centre, then neaten the edges of the shoulders. Match the front and back shoulder seams, pin and stitch. Press the seams open.
3
Lay the joined front and back pieces out flat, right sides up. Place the facing pieces on top, right sides down, matching the necklines. Pin, then sew around the neckline and down each side of the back facings. Clip the curved seam allowances and trim the corner bulk. Understitch the neckline, stopping 4cm from each centre-back edge.
4
Neaten the blouse side and long sleeve edges. Pin the back and front pieces along the sides, right sides together. Sew, then press open. Work a row of gathering stitches around the sleeve heads. Match, pin, then sew the long sleeve seams, right sides together. Press the seams open and turn right sides out.
5
After pulling the gathering threads slightly, place each sleeve into an armhole. Match the side seams and the long sleeve seam, and the notch in the centre of the sleeve to the one at the end of the shoulder seam, adjusting the gathers to fit the armhole. Pin and stitch, then neaten around the armhole seam allowances.
6
Fold and press the sleeve cuff by 1cm, then a further 2cm. Repeat at the base of the shirt. Unfold the base of the back facings and sew in line with the pressed hem. Fold to the inside, and edgestitch the hem. Mark six buttonholes on the left-hand side of the back opening and sew. Hand-stitch corresponding buttons on the opposite side. 22
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To draw more attention to the back detail, opt for contrast buttons
sew DRESSMAKING
Bargain
FABRIC BUYS!
sew
SHOPPER ************************
LIBERTY KUSSMAN PURPLE This abstract Tana lawn features horses in cheery mauve, pink and orange, and is both light and silky to wear. £10 per metre, abakhan.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!
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Box pleat our no-pattern
ADA SKIRT
Adding box pleats is an easy way to avoid bulk around the waistline when creating volume in a skirt. Here, the ones in Amanda Walker's knee-length version are equally distributed around, which makes it very straightforward to customise the garment to your body measurements.
stitch a POLKA SKIRT
Marking guide 1.5cm
4cm
8cm
Measurement A
Measurem
Pleating guide
Get started
2cm 2cm
• Fabric* • Fusible interfacing • Invisible zip, 23cm • Hook and bar fastening
1.5cm
2cm
4cm
2cm
Measurement A
2cm
Measurement A
4cm
2cm
2cm Measurement A
*Quantity depends on size. A size 10-12 (70cm waist) used 1m of fabric (1.5m wide)
Sizes
Custom-sized
Cutting guide
Skirt front and back: cut two 67cm x (half of waist measurement, plus 62cm = width) rectangles Waistband: cut one 10cm x (waist measurement plus 7.5cm) strip 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.
1
Cut out all of the pieces according to the cutting guide, then neaten the side seams of both skirt pieces. Beginning 5.5cm from the side seam along the top of the skirt, measure and mark measurement A (your waist measurement plus 3, divided by 14), then 8cm, repeating across the width and finishing after marking the seventh A measurement, 5.5cm from the other side seam.
2
On the right side, fold the edges of each 8cm section back on themselves into the centre to create one box pleat, then pin. Repeat to create the pleats, then stitch across the top to secure. Repeat the entire process for the second skirt piece. Match the skirt
side seams, right sides together, then pin and stitch, leaving 20cm open at the top of one seam for the zip.
A box pleat is formed when two equal folds of fabric are folded away from each other evenly, traditionally meeting at the centre back.
3
Fold back the seam allowance along each side of the opening, then press. Unfold it, place the open zipper face-down on the right side of the fabric, matching the teeth to the crease, then pin. Using an invisible zipper foot, stitch around the tape, then bring the pull tab through to the right side.
4
Fuse interfacing to the waistband piece, then position it along the waistline of the skirt, matching the pleated raw edge, leaving a 3.5cm overlap on one side and 1.5cm on the other. Pin, sew, then fold the ends in half, right sides together. Stitch around the outer edge of each end.
5
Turn the ends right sides out, then turn the waistband over inside the skirt. Pin along the band on the right side of the skirt and stitch in the ditch between the pleats and the waistband. Neaten the hem, press 3cm to the inside, then handstitch. Add a hook and bar to finish.
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4cm
2cm Measurement A
sew DRESSMAKING
do the MATHS See Cutting Guide. The following example is based on a size 10-12 (70cm waist) Skirt: 67 x (70 ÷ 2 = 35, + 62* = 97) 67cm x 97cm Waistband: 10 x (70 + 7.5** = 77.5)
10cm x 77.5cm
Measurement A:
70 + 3 = 73, ÷ 14 = 5.2cm *Extra 62cm width is for seam allowance (3cm), ease (3cm) and seven pleats (8cm each) **Extra 7.5cm is for seam allowance (1.5cm), ease (3cm) and overlap (3cm)
sew
SHOPPER ************************
Bargain
FABRIC BUYS! SPOT ON The classic white dot on red. £2.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
POLKA FACE Mono dots with a floral twist on chiffon. £8 per metre, plushaddict.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!
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SEW NOV 2017 master_SEW 06/10/2017 14:21 Page 26
Prym would like to thank Sew readers for the nomination in the Best New Product for 2017 category
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VOTE ONLINE NOW! SEWMAG.CO.UK/AWARDS
BRITISH SEWING AWARDS 2017 Vote for your favourite stitching brands,
personalities and haberdashers in the British Sewing Awards and you could win goodies worth £300+
T
he nominations stage of the British Sewing Awards 2017 is now over – thank you to everyone who let us know their favourite sewing brands, products, personalities and more. It’s now time to start voting – either fill in the form overleaf or visit sewmag.co.uk/awards, and you’ll receive the FREE pattern to make Alice, our cute flowerchild doll.
WHAT’S MORE, YOU’LL BE ENTERED INTO OUR PRIZE DRAW TO WIN A BUMPER BUNDLE OF GOODIES, WORTH £300+ INCLUDING:
Vote NOW to receive your FREE Alice pattern!
An OttLite 2-in-1 LED sewing machine light, that includes two interchangeable heads – an illuminated magnifier and book light. £24, cjbeaders.com
A £50 shopping voucher from Dotcomgiftshop, which offers a huge range of gorgeous gifts. dotcomgiftshop.com
PLUS! A mystery bundle of sewing goodies, worth £200!
A £50 shopping voucher from The Contemporary Home, to spend on their wide collection of beautiful homewares. tch.net 27
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FORM OVERLEAF
VOTE ONLINE NOW! SEWMAG.CO.UK/AWARDS Voting form PRODUCTS
Best New Product for 2017 ❑ Bernina Adjustable Ruler Foot #72 ❑ Clover Wonder Clips ❑ Creative Grids Non-Slip Rulers ❑ Fiskars Rotating Cutting Mat ❑ Prym Soft Comfort Thimble Best fabric brand ❑ Cotton + Steel ❑ Lewis & Irene ❑ Liberty of London ❑ Makower UK ❑ Moda Fabric Best major pattern house ❑ Burda ❑ Butterick ❑ McCall’s ❑ Simplicity ❑ Vogue Best independent pattern house ❑ Cashmerette ❑ Sew Me Something ❑ Sew Over It ❑ Six Penny Memories ❑ Tilly and the Buttons Best thread brand ❑ Aurifil ❑ Gütermann ❑ Madeira ❑ Mettler ❑ YLI
FAVOURITE SEWING MACHINES Tick the model under the brand you own to vote for it! Bernina ❑ Aurora 440QE ❑ 1008 ❑ 330 ❑ 770QE ❑ 830 Brother ❑ FS130QC ❑ Innov-is F420 ❑ Innov-is V3 ❑ Innov-is 350SE ❑ Innov-is 955 Husqvarna ❑ Designer Diamond Royale ❑ Designer Jade 35 ❑ Rose 600 ❑ Sapphire 870Q ❑ Sapphire 965Q Janome ❑ Atelier 5 ❑ CXL301 ❑ DC3050 ❑ DKS100 ❑ TXL607
South of England ❑ Crafty Baba, Ipswich ❑ Lady Sew and Sew, Henley-on-Thames ❑ The Little House of Patchwork, Chichester ❑ Sew Creative, Petersfield ❑ The Village Haberdashery, London
Juki ❑ Exceed HZL-F600 ❑ HZL-353Z ❑ HZL-DX7 ❑ MO-1000 ❑ TL98 Pfaff ❑ Creative 4.5 ❑ Passport 2.0 ❑ Performance 5.0 ❑ Quilt Expression 4.2 ❑ Smarter 160S
North of England ❑ BST Fabrics, South Shields ❑ Dollys Haberdashery and Sewing School, Warrington ❑ Fabworks Mill Shop, Dewsbury ❑ The Fat Quarters, Newcastle-upon-Tyne ❑ Simply Solids, Huddersfield
Singer ❑ Confidence 7463 ❑ Confidence 7465 ❑ One Plus ❑ Stitch Sew Quick ❑ 99K Hand Crank
ONLINE
Best online retailer ❑ Jaycotts ❑ Lady Sew and Sew ❑ Minerva Crafts ❑ Quilt Direct ❑ Sew Over It
Toyota ❑ Ergo 26D ❑ Oekaki Renaissance ❑ RS2000 ❑ SLR4D MK2 ❑ SJ15
Best sewing blog ❑ Debbie Shore ❑ The Fold Line ❑ Sew Over It ❑ Tilly and the Buttons ❑ Very Berry Handmade
RETAILERS Best UK chain ❑ Abakhan ❑ Fabric Land ❑ Hobbycraft ❑ John Lewis ❑ Sew Over It
Best Instagram ❑ The Fold Line ❑ Lauren Guthrie ❑ Hollies Haberdashery ❑ Sew Over It ❑ Tilly and the Buttons
Northern Ireland
❑ Craftswoman Fabrics, Carrickfergus ❑ Mrs Sew’n’Sew, Portadown ❑ Paragon Fabrics, Belfast ❑ Sew ‘n’ Knit, Lisburn ❑ Sew Unique Fabrics, Bangor Midlands ❑ The Cotton Patch, Birmingham ❑ Crafty Sew & So, Leicester ❑ Guthrie & Ghani, Birmingham ❑ Hollies Haberdashery, Newcastle-under-Lyme ❑ Sew Me Something, Stratford-upon-Avon
RESOURCES & ACTIVITIES Most inspirational sewing personality ❑ Lisa Comfort ❑ Stuart Hillard ❑ Jennie Rayment ❑ Debbie Shore ❑ Tilly Walnes
Scotland ❑ Butterfly Fabrics, Inverurie ❑ The Dress Fabric Company, Edinburgh ❑ Holm Sown, Castle Douglas ❑ Mandors Fabric Store, Glasgow ❑ Number 29, Fochabers
Favourite sewing book 2017 ❑ Complete Dressmaking by Jules Fallon ❑ Half Yard Vintage by Debbie Shore ❑ Girl With A Sewing Machine by Jenniffer Taylor ❑ THE MAKER’S ATELIER: The Essential Collection by Frances Tobin ❑ Use Scraps, Sew Blocks, Make 100 Quilts by Stuart Hillard
Wales ❑ Butterfly Fabrics, Cardiff ❑ Calico Kate, Lampeter ❑ The Cotton Angel, Monmouth ❑ Lee Mill Fabrics, Swansea ❑ White Gecko Craft Lounge, Dinas Powys
Top sewing workshops/courses ❑ Dolly’s Haberdashery and Sewing School, Warrington: Garment Making ❑ Hollies Haberdashery, Newcastleunder-Lyme: Tilly and the Buttons Bettine Dress
❑ Lady Sew and Sew, Henley on
Thames: Twirling Stars by Jennie Rayment ❑ The Little House of Patchwork, Chichester: Beginners Quilting ❑ Sew Creative, Petersfield: Make a Quilt in a Day Best exhibition/event 2017 ❑ Festival of Quilts, NEC Birmingham ❑ Handmade Fair, Hampton Court ❑ Hobbycrafts, NEC Birmingham ❑ Knitting & Stitching Show, Olympia ❑ Quilts UK, Malvern Most outstanding Sew Saturday event 2016 ❑ Guthrie & Ghani, Moseley, Birmingham ❑ Hollies Haberdashery, Newcastleunder-Lyme ❑ The Little House of Patchwork, Chichester ❑ Sew Creative, Petersfield ❑ Sew Busy, Fleet, Hampshire
YOUR DETAILS Title................Forename.......................... Surname...................................................... Address........................................................ ......................................................................... ......................................................................... ......................................................................... Postcode...................................................... Tel number................................................... Email.............................................................. Signature...................................................... Date...............................................................
❑ Tick this box and include your email
address below to receive the Alice Flowerchild project and pattern once the voting stage closes on 14th December 2017. CLOSING DATE: 14th DECEMBER 2017 FOR VOTES
TERMS & CONDITIONS: All entries will be entered into the prize draw which is open to all UK residents aged 18 or over, excluding employees or agents of the associated companies and their families. Only one entry per person. The prizes are are an OttLite 2-in-1 LED sewing machine light worth £24, a Dotcomgiftshop voucher worth £50, a voucher from The Contemporary Home worth £50, and a bundle of sewing products worth £200, and cannot be exchanged for cash, or replaced with any other item. Illegible entries and those that do not abide by these terms and conditions will be disqualified. No responsibility will be held for entries lost, delayed or damaged. By entering these votes, you are agreeing to Aceville Publications Ltd and sister companies being able to contact you. Entries will be selected at random within 28 days of the closing date. No correspondence will be entered into. CLOSING DATE: 14th December 2017. Winner will be notified by post, phone or email. The winners’ names will be available on request from Zoe Charge, 21/23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY.
Please send completed forms to: 28
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!
Marketing Dept, British Sewing Awards 2017, Aceville Publications Ltd, 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, CO2 8JY
sew DRESSMAKING
Stitch the Look
ELEGANT LACE Lace may conjure up images of royalty, but the luxe fabric is cheaply available in a variety of colours. Because you can often see through this delicate material, be aware that areas like the neck facings and seam allowances can’t be concealed in the same way as usual, plus you’ll need to line at least some areas. The fabric can be found in a host of beautiful motifs and repeats, plus you can take full advantage of any intricate edges for the hem and sleeve ends.
WHY NOT TRY
1
2
3 Lace pencil dress, £45, dorothy perkins.com
4
“We stock a number of laces, that are wellsuited to all kinds of dressmaking projects at Fabric Land. The fabric often doesn’t have a right or wrong side, but double check this and even if it doesn’t, stick to one when cutting out your pieces to ensure your garment looks uniform all over.”
5
Bargain
FABRIC BUYS!
Maxine Smith, Fabric Land
1 Purple lace, £4.99 per metre 2 White eden lace, £6.99 per metre 3 Dobby spot black lace, £2.99 per metre 4 Ivory eden lace, £6.99 per metre 5 Ruby corded lace, £6.99 per metre All of the featured lace fabrics are available at fabricland.co.uk
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sew DRESSMAKING
learn with...
YOSHIKO TSUKIORI
sew
free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
LAUREN DRESS This stylish dress features a pale grey polyester crepe de chine lining that subtly shows through under a layer of lace, creating an elegant look. For a more professional finish, try matching the lace pattern at the side seams. For sizes 8-14, the fabric for the skirt and underskirt pieces will not be wide enough, so you’ll need to add another panel at the centre front instead.
sew a DRESS Get started
• Lace fabric* • Crepe de chine* • Fusible interfacing, 30cm x 90cm • Invisible zip, 56cm • Hook and eye fastening • Grosgrain ribbon (optional), 2m (2.5cm wide)
*Note: amount required depends on size. Sizes 4-6 use 2.6m of lace and 2.5m of lining, and 8-14 uses 4m of lace and 3.9m of lining (1.1m wide)
Sizes
4-14 ( see online templates for measurements)
Cutting guide
Bodice back: cut two each from lace and lining Bodice front: cut one on the fold from lace and lining Skirt back: cut two each from lace and lining Skirt front: cut one on the fold* each from lace and lining Back neck facing: cut one on the fold from lining Front neck facing: cut one on the fold from lining Sleeve: cut four from lace
For sizes 8-14, fabric for outer and lining skirt isn’t wide enough, so add a panel at centre front
1cm seam allowance used throughout.
1
Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Snip the pieces according to the cutting guide, then lay each of the corresponding lace bodice pieces on top of the lining ones, both right sides up. Tack, then neaten the edges at the shoulders, sides and centre-back of the bodice back. Iron fusible interfacing to the front neck facing and neaten around the outer edge. Sew the bust darts in the bodice front, press upwards, then neaten the sides. Stitch the waist darts and press towards the centre. Repeat for the darts on the back
2
bodices. Pin the front and back right sides together. Sew the shoulders and sides and press the seams open. Sew the sides of the lace front and back skirt. Press the seams open. Stitch the centre-back seam from the zip endpoint to the hem, then open out. Fold up a narrow double hem and stitch. Make the skirt lining in the same way. Match the lace and lining skirts and sew gathering stitches through both layers at the waist, (lining inside). Sew the bodice and skirt together at the waist, pressing the seam up. Wrap ribbon around the join if desired, tucking each edge inside the centre back. Using the longest stitch on your machine, tack the zip along the centre-back, then open out. Sew the zip along each side to both lace and lining layers. Sew the front and back neck facings together at the shoulders. Press the seams open. Match the facing and bodice right sides together, sew, then turn right sides out. Stitch the underarm seams, then neaten both layers. Press the seam allowance to the back. Fold a narrow double hem at the sleeves and sew. Attach the sleeves to the bodice, neaten the edges, then press the seam allowance towards the sleeve. Blind hem stitch the outer edge of the facing to the shoulder seam allowances. Work thread loops using the buttonhole stitch to attach the skirt outer and lining together at the centre back near the hem (see Your Sewing Guide, p84). Attach a hook and eye to fasten the bodice above the zip.
3
4 5
6
Find more garments like this to sew in Stylish Party Dresses by Yoshiko Tsukiori, Tuttle Publishing, £12.99, amazon.co.uk 31
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KS FR O M I
ND
EP
EN
NDIE pattern news
SIZ
TO
IC PP
8 ES
-20
DE NT
D E SI G N E R S
Chestnut top and sweater
by CocoWawa Crafts Difficulty:
Here, you’re spoiled for choice with six different versions in one fab pattern. Opt for a long-sleeved top with side vents and a slightly dropped back hem, or a comfortable sweater with two sleeve options. Each one is decoratively finished with bows, either down an open back seam, above a rounded back neck, or on an open shoulder seam. £10, cocowawacrafts.com
SI Z E S8
SI Z
8 -1
ES
6 -2 0
Libellule shirt and dress by I Am
Difficulty: Meaning ‘dragonfly’ in French, the versatile Libellule features a quirky flared shape, straight collar and an off-centre concealed button placket. It works equally well as a shirt or dress in fabrics such as poplin, chambray and linen, but when upsized and stitched from heavier fabrics like gabardine, jacquard or thin denim, also makes for a lovely regular or long jacket. £10.55 (PDF), £13.19 (paper), iampatterns.fr 32
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sew DRESSMAKING
pattern
Phoebe dress
pick
by Sew Over It Difficulty:
Jersey newbies will be surprised at what they can achieve, as this simply constructed dress allows you to focus on that all-important finish. Comprised of only five pieces, the front and back are joined with contrasting yokes, then gather into a fitted skirt. The keyhole closure is easy to insert, whilst stretch-savvy stitchers can enjoy customising with colour-blocking options galore! £7.50 (PDF), sewoverit.co.uk
SIZES 8-22
We could easily spend longer choosing the fabric than stitching this garment. Win! The sew team
The big easy top
by The Maker’s Atelier Difficulty: A cosy, oversized pullover is exactly what we all want to be wearing right now, and this pattern offers both a boxy style with a funnel neck and a slimmer, round-necked cocoon jumper with exposed raw edges – which add serious interest. The best thing about this relaxed garment however, is that it’s possibly the easiest stitch we’ve featured on IPN! £22.50, themakersatelier.com
Amber pinafore by Named
Difficulty:
Bergen cardigan by Anne Kerdilés Difficulty:
SIZ E
S
S
What we love most about Bergen is its versatility. You can stitch it in anything from lightweight jersey to wool and quilted fabrics, making it the perfect year-round companion. As if that’s not enough, just look at the dart detailing around the neck and hemlines, plus the sweet raglan sleeves – adorable! £7.83 (PDF), £13.81 (paper), annekerdilescouture.com
20 6-
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IZ
Unlike any pinafore you’ve seen before, this simple, below-the-knee A-line skirt allows the lined bodice to take centre stage, with a beautifully curved deep V-neck and buckled racer back. It sounds tricky, but it’s made from non-stretch fabric and only the top section is lined. Plus, the comprehensive instructions couldn’t be any clearer. 4-22 £16, backstitch.co.uk ES
SEW NOV 2017 master_SEW 06/10/2017 16:01 Page 34
Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beautiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world.
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sew DRESSMAKING
Lauren Guthrie “The bricks and mortar aspect of my business is by far the most important!”
D
on’t you think there is something really nostalgic about spending time shopping for fabric and sewing? My Mum had her own dressmaking business based from home and was always working on different projects and commissions, so it wasn’t long before she taught me how to sew as a young child. I remember spending hours in our local fabric shop and can still picture it in detail now, even though the shop is sadly long gone. With the internet and online shopping playing such a big role in every aspect of our lives these days, I think it’s really nice to still have somewhere to actually go and buy fabric. Somewhere you can touch and feel it, see how different materials hang, and get that all-important advice and chat – which you so often need when you spend a lot of time sewing at home alone. The Sew Saturday events taking place up and down the country on 21st October are a great way to share your love for sewing and shopping to support your local shop. The bricks and mortar part of my business is the most important to me and I don’t think I could ever have it any other way. I love to see fabric in the flesh when I buy it, and being able to offer that to my customers means a lot. I think it’s great that more fabric shops have been opening up all over the country in the past few years but for those who do need to shop online, I’ve been making monthly videos on my YouTube channel to share the new fabric arrivals we have had in the shop – just search my name to find them! I show the drape and a close up of the texture of the fabrics, as well as pattern suggestions for what to make with them. It wasn’t until I was in my late teens that I started making clothes for myself. I think through growing up around not only garments being made by my Mum, but also curtains, blinds and other home interiors, I learned how to be able to look at things and work out how they were actually made. So when I was looking at clothes in the shops, I’d often think, ‘I could make that! I don’t need to buy it!’ It really taught me the value of sewing and once I started to use commercial patterns, my confidence slowly started to grow.
What Lauren’s ❤ loving ❤
SCOUT TEE PATTERN BY GRAINLINE STUDIO, £14.90, GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK
“I share two ways to put in a jersey neckband ov er on my YouTube channel!”
One of the first patterns I followed — with the help of my Mum — was a wrap-around blouse and a lined winter coat. Unless you’ve got someone by your side, these probably aren’t the easiest things to start with… but with so many blogs and tutorials to help you now, making a garment isn’t as hard as you’d think. To a complete beginner, I’d suggest something that is fairly loose in style as it will be easier to fit and more forgiving of any imperfections. The Grainline Scout tee is a nice option as it calls for lightweight woven fabrics that are less tricky to work with. It looks lovely paired with jeans and layered up with a cardigan, so you’d be able to get a lot of use from it too – which is one of the most satisfying things about making your own clothes. If you’ve been thinking about sewing something for a while, just go for it! And wherever you are, get yourself down to a real-life fabric shop for some advice and encouragement – I can guarantee that you won’t regret it.
Lauren PATTERN PAPER, 30P PER METRE, GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK
THREE TOOLS I couldn’t live without My measuring tape. I’ve still got the same one I got for my 18th birthday! Dots and cross pattern paper – I trace all my sewing patterns to make them last longer.
FREYA IN COLOURWAY C, LIBERTY TANA LAWN, £22.50 PER METRE, GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK
My new Simflex buttonhole-marking gauge… I’ve used it so much already.
FIND FABRIC, PATTERNS, HABERDASHERY AND MORE AT GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK 35
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sewing
SoS
Take the experts’ advice on stitching with thicker fabrics
Q
A friend recommended I use a walking foot for sewing thick fabric – what is it, and how does it work? Agnes Turner
Kate says
A walking foot is traditionally used for quilting as it has built-in feed dogs to evenly pull through two layers of fabric at the same time. However, it’s also fantastic to use on thicker fabrics for dressmaking, as the feed dogs prevent these from puckering and keeps all your stitches even as you sew. A walking foot is bigger and bulkier than other machine feet and has an arm that attaches to the needle bar. This extra bar tells the sewing machine to pull the top fabric through the sewing machine at the same rate it is pulling the bottom fabric. Before you begin, you should attach the foot to the machine, followed by the arm to the needle bar. You can then start sewing as you would normally – it’s that simple to use. You can buy walking feet for most machines; they can cost between £30£40 depending on which brand of machine you have, but they are really worth every penny!
Q
I want to try sewing my own jeans – can I get away with using a regular sewing machine, or do I need to invest in a different model?
Danielle Legge
Debbie says
A single layer of denim won’t be a problem for most sewing machines – it’s the seams, which can amount to up to six layers of fabric, that may cause an issue. You’ll need to use a denim needle, which is stronger than usual and copes with denim, canvas, upholstery fabric and many layers of thick material. Lengthen the stitch slightly, and sew slowly to begin with. As you approach a seam, stop, then turn the hand wheel towards you to ease the needle through the thick layers. If you’re sewing jeans on a regular basis, it would be worth investing in a seam lifter. Stop as you meet the seam, then push the lifter under the back of the foot so that it sews flat, instead of at an angle. I like to use a triple straight stitch when topstitching on denim, which looks very much like manufactured stitching. You can also buy specific jeans thread, which is slightly thicker than usual and available in the traditional golden colours. Although you don’t need to invest in a new machine, if you’re in the market for a computerised model I recommend the Butterick EB6100, available at createandcraft.com. It has 100 stitches and easily glides through all manner of fabrics, whether you’re a dressmaker, quilter or home-sewer! 36
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BUTTERICK EB6100 SEWING MACHINE, £599.99, HEMLINE MIXED JEANS MACHINE NEEDLES, £1.90, CREATEANDCRAFT.COM
here to
help
KATE UNDERDOWN
DEBBIE SHORE
Co-founder of online community The Fold Line, where you can find helpful advice and discuss your latest project with fellow stitchers.
The talented sewing expert, TV presenter, author and demonstrator, is also a sewing ambassador for Create and Craft.
thefoldline.com
createandcraft.com
Q
I’ve fallen in love with some nice corduroy fabric – what sort of garments would this be best for, and how do I sew it?
Janine Webster
Lisa says
I love making corduroy garments for autumn and winter – it’s a fabric that I particularly enjoy using for fitted skirts. My go-to patterns are Sew Over It’s Ultimate Pencil Skirt, and the button-up Erin Skirt, which is featured as part of our My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break e-book. Corduroy is fairly easy to sew – the main thing you really need to bear in mind is the nap of the fabric. It’s important to make sure you place all of your pattern pieces the same way up so that they all catch the light in a similar way. One piece that’s been cut out upside down can look quite strange compared to the rest! I’d also recommend using a lower heat setting on your iron to press it than you would for cottons and rayons to avoid any marks. Try using a size 90 or 100 needle, and keep a lint roller handy. Cutting corduroy is a fluffy business!
LISA COMFORT
Owner of London shop, Sew Over It, offering in-store and online classes, plus her own range of garment patterns.
top 4
sewoverit.co.uk
Thrifty Fabric Finds There’s nothing like the thrill of bagging a really Bargain good deal. All too FABRIC often, we sneak our BUY! latest purchases into the house to avoid the inevitable cries of “It cost how much?!” from family members. However, these gorgeous fabrics are an absolute steal!
ets
Great for jeans & jack
Medium-weight black denim, £9.35 per metre.
Zigzag pattern
Pink and ivory wool blend, £5.99 per metre.
FIND OUR PICK OF CORDUROY FABRICS ON P20
tip! Make sure your needle and thread closely match in size, and are suitable for the type of fabric you're using. ERIN SKIRT FROM MY CAPSULE WARDROBE E-BOOK, £20, SEWOVERIT.CO.UK
Classic dogtooth Cream and black wool blend, £5.99 per metre.
Pretty & practical Ditsy floral print cotton corduroy, £7 per metre.
ALL OF THE ABOVE PRODUCTS ARE AVAILABLE FROM ABAKHAN.CO.UK 37
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SEW NOV 2017 master_SEW 06/10/2017 16:01 Page 38
On-line stockists of Liberty fabrics - Including Liberty Tana Lawn, needlecord, jersey and Lantana.
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Don’t forget to share your Sew Saturday experience with us for your chance to feature in the next issue of SEW! Contact: saturday@sewmag.co.uk
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YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Adding lining 3 Making a collar 3 Inserting buttonholes 3 Creating arm slits
sew DRESSMAKING
sew masterclass
sew
Keep snug in our season staple, the
free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
HATTIE CAPE This simple cape by Fiona Hesford is made from easy-sew boiled wool and will be a great addition to your winter wardrobe, promising to take you through the crisp spring months too. If you haven’t lined a garment before, don’t be put off. It might be an extra step but is undoubtedly worth it, giving your garment a professional finish and hiding unsightly seams, whilst making it comfier to wear – which is a must for coarser fabrics. Get started
• Boiled wool, 1.7m (140cm wide) • Lining fabric, 1.7m (140cm wide) • Fusible lightweight interfacing, 30cm square • Three large buttons (2.5cm diameter)
Sizes One size Finished length: approx. 71cm
Cutting guide
Note: cut the following so the arrows on the pattern align with the grainline of the fabric (except collar). Remember to flip the template for the second piece to make a pair. FROM WOOL AND LINING: Front: cut one pair Back: cut one pair Side front: cut one pair Collar: cut one on the fold Note: iron interfacing to the reverse of the wool collar piece only 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.
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sew a WOOL CAPE Assembling the cape pieces Note: repeat steps 2-3 with the lining pieces
Fiona Hesford’s guide to STITCHING & FINISHING l Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk /templates, then transfer the markings, such as the darts on the back pieces, and the armhole openings on the cape front and side front. l When marking out the position of the buttons, use the buttonhole template as a guide to ensure they are spaced even distances apart. l Before you start, find a walking foot to use for the topstitching and a buttonhole foot for the final stage. l Topstitching is a line of straight stitching, 1cm from the edge on the right side, with a stitch length of 3mm. l Staystitching is a line of straight stitching worked 1cm from the edge to prevent the curved edges stretching.
1
3
5
6
Sew the back piece to the joined front at the sides, then press the seam allowances open. If your fabric has no stretch, nick the seam allowance at the curved edges.
Stitching the collar
4
Pin the interfaced collar to the Press the collar, tack collar lining piece, right sides around the neck edge, then together. Tack, then sew around topstitch around the outer the outer curved edge. Nick the seam edge only. Leave the tacking in allowance and turn right sides out. at the neck edge.
Pin the collar, right sides up, to the right side of the fabric cape at the neck edge, with a 5cm overhang over each centre-front edge of the cape. Tack.
Joining the cape and lining
7
8
9
10
11
12
Pin the cape lining to the outer piece, right sides together, with the collar hanging downwards and matching up the cross seams and darts. Tack.
When topstitching bulkier fabrics, a walking foot will ease the flow of stitching.
2
Sew the darts on the back and With right sides together, sew side-front pieces, then press the side-front piece to the front towards the centre. Staystitch piece at the side edge, leaving a the top of the cape pieces at the neck section of the seam unstitched for edge. With right sides together, sew the armhole opening, as indicated the back pieces along the centre back. on the template.
Ensure the collar seam allowance faces down towards the cape. Topstitch on the right side of the tacked areas, then press.
Sew all around the raw edge and press. Nick the corners of the seam allowance, then turn the cape right sides out through the armhole slit.
At the armhole opening, pin and tack the lining to the wrong side of the cape, ensuring that the seam allowance is folded under.
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Push out the seam all around the cape and press so that no lining is visible from the right side. Pin, then tack all around the cape edge.
Stitch the lining in place by hand. Topstitch on the right side all around the armhole opening. Weave in the thread ends.
sew DRESSMAKING
sew
SHOPPER
************************
ORANGE CRUSH This boiled wool has a 77% wool content and is perfect for chillier weather. ÂŁ19.95 per metre, myfabrics.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!
Work the buttonholes Note: work the buttonholes on the lefthand side (when facing you) of the cape.
13
Use the template to mark the position of three buttonholes on the centre-front. Sew using a buttonhole foot on your machine, then attach the buttons to the other side. 41
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Behind the
FOLD LINES handbags to their shoes and completing the look with red nails and lipstick.” With the war bringing women to industrial tasks, the need for a practical yet stylish wardrobe emerged and so the lines between garments previously regarded as ‘male’ or ‘female’ started to blur. “Broad-shouldered woollen jackets were worn with silky tea dresses, and ‘man-tailored’ slacks paired with frilly, floral blouses,” Sarah continues. “The government restricted clothing manufacture and decoration was prohibited, which meant designers had to instead focus on cut and clever alternatives to achieve a similar effect. Striped blouses often featured collars, pockets and cuffs that were cut in a different direction, or pieced together on the bias to create interest through a chevron effect.”
FASHION FORWARD
The war also had a direct effect on the garments that became popular during the 1940s and in the years following. “While the men were away, women took their place in employment and the services. Many traditionally male-dominated roles required practical clothing,” Sarah says. 42
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Image from the
S
ewing today is a starkly different experience to that of the 1940s, where mending and tailoring skills were vital to the everyday woman. Whilst WWI called upon ladies to volunteer for the war effort and send essential comforts to soldiers, the onset of WWII in 1938 led to an age of austerity – where fabric and ready-made outfits were strictly rationed, creating a culture in which women had to use their ingenuity and wit to keep up appearances. Sarah Magill, a Costume and Performance Design lecturer at the Arts University Bournemouth (AUB), has a particular love for early to mid-twentieth century women’s dress. “This area fascinates me because clothing changed so rapidly and reflected the social progress of women, from the rising hemlines of the 1920s through to the subcultures of the 1950s when Teddy Girls emerged,” she tells Sew. “Even in times of adversity and austerity women remained smart and elegant, matching
Imperial War M useum
Cut and construction expert Sarah Magill looks back at what shaped the wardrobe of the 1940s woman
MAKING DO
The launch of the Make Do and Mend scheme also encouraged the repurpose and repair of existing garments. Pamphlets on upcycling were circulated, and women’s magazines published ideas such as using a man’s suit to make a lady’s outfit. Meanwhile, newbie stitchers could learn from demonstrations and sewing circles – something that has resurfaced again in the present day. “Zips were harder to find, often being replaced on trouser and skirt plackets with buttons,” Sarah reveals. “However, the government wanted the population to have access to good quality, well-fitting garments. As a result, manufacturing methods were specified and standard sizing was developed, which improved the mass-production of clothing. ”
TURN BACK TIME
If you’re feeling inspired to take a leaf out of your grandmother’s sewing book, you can recreate the era’s look through a choice of outfits. “Think siren suits, tea dresses, swagger coats, and turbans. The shirt dress was popular then and has since evolved,” says Sarah. “The tailored suit is also a classic and the silhouette has frequently been
ng Vintage 1940s Clothes For Wom en
revisited, especially in the shoulder pad -crazed 1980s. In recent years there has been a huge interest in vintage clothing.” To create a truly authentic piece, you should first carefully consider your materials. “Fabrics in the 1940s were predominantly made from natural fibres or rayon – modern materials don’t always seem to give the same aesthetic,” Sarah advises. Vintage rayon crepes are perfect for tea dresses and can be sourced through specialist dealers and online, but silk or wool ones work well too. Quilting cottons or lawns are an ideal weight for period blouses, whilst linens and wools are suitable for trousers and skirts. The Make Do and Mend scheme encouraged the replacing of worn parts of garments with remnants, so contrast panels became common. Rouleau loops for fastening buttons were popular on dresses and blouses, whilst lace appliqué was favoured for underwear. Amongst the hardship and horrors that were faced, WWII paved way for much change in the years to come. With more than 7 million ladies working for the war effort, women’s employment steadily increased and equal pay debates would later ensue. For a true nod to 1940s fashion advances – and social progression – you could try making a pair of high-waisted trousers. After years of austerity, working ‘male’ jobs and making do and mending, women certainly weren’t going to take off the trousers that they’d earned the right to wear – they were here to stay.
Photograph by Alex Magill, taken from Maki
“Women donned utility garments such as overalls, whilst turbans and headscarves were essential for preventing hairrelated injuries in munitions work. Women had worn trousers prior to the war, but as it started to become socially acceptable to wear them outside of private and leisurely contexts, they quickly became a staple.” Clothes rationing along with austerity regulations came down heavily on the clothing Victory rolls helped industry, as Sarah keep hair off the face explains. “In 1941, for women in the civilians were allocated workforce. 66 coupons, which allowed them a complete outfit – you had to hand over 14 for a coat, seven per skirt and five for each blouse, as well as paying money. The Utility scheme was introduced to make the best use of scarce materials, accounting for around 80% of clothing manufacture – the fact that this clothing was available tax-free was a huge incentive for consumers.” Pared back details would later distinguish the clean but classic fashion of the era. “The number of pleats, pockets and buttons were limited,” Sarah elaborates. “Certain style features, such as double-breasted jackets and turn-up trousers, were prohibited completely.” Even home dressmakers weren’t immune, with rations placed on fabric and a 25% tax on paper patterns because they didn’t comply with austerity measures.
1940s style is characterised by clean designs, that are embellished through clever tricks with fabric.
Sarah’s vintage sewing tips • Tacking is worth every minute, as is pressing at each stage of construction to get the perfect finish. • Although time-consuming, period details such as hand-worked buttonholes or arrowheads on pleats really add value to a garment. • Make the piece work for you: the typical silhouette of the 1940s may not flatter every body shape. Reduce shoulder pads and sleeve head gathers, and adapt skirts and dresses to suit your body.
Turn over to make a stunning 1940s evening dress!
Find out more about this era, plus patterns to make authentic-looking garments in Sarah Magill’s Making Vintage 1940s Clothes For Women, £25, crowood.com 43
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sew
Learn heritage techniques for the
RITA DRESS
free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
make a RUCHED FROCK Get started
• Medium weight fabric, 2m (150cm wide) or 4.5m (115cm wide)* • Lining fabric, 25cm • 54cm invisible zip
* Based on UK size 12
Size
Custom-sized*
* Enlarge or reduce pattern as detailed on template online
Cutting guide
Back bodice: cut one pair Front bodice: cut one pair Front & back skirt: cut two pairs on the bias Back neck facing: cut one pair * Front neck facing: cut one on the fold * Back peplum: cut one on the fold Front peplum: cut one pair each from fabric and lining
* If your fabric is very drapey, you may want to stabilize the facings with interfacing
Pattern does not include seam allowance, add directly onto fabric. Facing pieces requires seam allowances on inner neckline edges and shoulders only.
This elegant 40s style dress is an example of how detail was created in garments without wasting precious materials. Featuring a ruched sweetheart neckline and a peplum cut, low-cost tricks like these were a stylish step around austerity measures of the time – to secure the shirring in place, there’s the extra option to strap the centre front seam. For the best results on your finished dress, clip around any curved seams and adjust the hemline only after hanging it for a day. pieces together up to the marked position of the zip, then stitch. Sew the joined front and back skirts together at the sides. Neaten the raw edges. SHIRRING & JOINING THE BODICE
1
Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Reduce or enlarge as necessary (detailed on the template), then cut the pieces according to the cutting guide and transfer all markings. Stitch the back bodice darts, then press towards the centre. Pin the front skirt pieces right sides together and sew along the long straight edge. Tack the back skirt
2
Pull the lower threads from the wrong side of the fabric until the centre-front bodice measures 22cm (excluding seam allowance). Distribute the shirring so it’s equal on both front bodice pieces, then knot the upper and lower threads together at the reverse. Pin the front bodice pieces right sides together and stitch along the centre-front where the shirring is. Pin the front and back bodice pieces right sides together and stitch at the shoulder and side seams. Clip and press open all the seam allowances.
1
For both the lining and fabric, tack the front and back peplum pieces together at the waistline and join at the straight side, trimming the main fabric’s seam allowance to 1cm and lining one’s to 5mm. Match the joined fabric and lining pieces right sides together, tack, then stitch from the centre-back around to the centrefront of each piece, leaving the waistline open. Turn right sides out, then roll the lining to the back slightly and press a little at a time. Once the
2
ATTACHING THE BODICE & ZIP Turn the skirt inside out and place the bodice inside, matching right sides together on the waistline. Ensure all of the seams align. Tack, then stitch. Tack the back bodices together at the centre, folding the seam allowance under, then press to the wrong side. Pin, then tack the right side of the zip fastener to the right side of the opening.
1
Tack the centre-front of each front bodice to indicate the shirring line. Working between the notches, make three parallel rows of gathering stitch on the longest length, 4mm apart. Pull the upper threads through to the wrong side of the fabric at the top and wrap around a pin.
MAKING THE PEPLUM
MAKING THE DARTS AND SKIRT
front curves match, tack the waistline of the fabric and lining together. Pin, then tack the peplum to the waistline of the skirt, matching the seams, with the lining of the peplum facing the skirt.
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2
Using an invisible zipper foot, stitch as close to the folded edge of the fabric as possible. Close the zip and place the left side of the opening over the zip to conceal it, ensuring the waistline matches on both sides. Pin, tack, then stitch down the other side of the zip, avoiding the peplum and stitching across the bottom to secure. CREATING THE NECKLINE FACING Match the shoulders of the front and back facing pieces, pin and stitch together then press open, trimming the seam allowance to 5mm. Match the facing to the neckline, right sides together, tack, then stitch, taking care to sew around the sweetheart shaping at the front.
You can use any medium weight with good drape, from silk crepe de chine to wool crepe and silk velvet.
sewmag.co.uk
sew DRESSMAKING BINDING THE ARMS & HEMMING THE SKIRT Make enough 25mm bias binding for each armhole. Trim the armhole seam allowance to 5mm, then match the binding right sides together to the armholes. Stitch from the back underarm all the way round to the front underarm. Turn the dress inside out and match the right sides of the bottom of the binding together, ready to mitre. Check the binding sits flat against the underarm seam, then stitch, trim the seam allowance and press open. Press the binding to the wrong side of each armhole. Turn the raw edge of the binding under 5mm and slip stitch to the armhole, catching as little fabric as possible. Try the dress on and decide on the finished hem length. If shortening, include a 5cm hem allowance and trim any excess.
1
2
Core skill:
get the
book
STRAP A SEAM
To strap the front bodice seam, place a strip of 25mm wide fabric, seam binding or tape over the seam and machine each edge to either side of the seam allowance. Herringbone stitch the seam allowance loosely to the bodice. You can find more classic garments in Making Vintage 1940s Clothes for Women by Sarah Magill. ÂŁ25, crowood.com
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! E ! o r N p I a e k i H l C ew S A M
r u o y e v o L
AMBITION 155
Packed with great features, this lovely model includes an integrated dual feed, a 20cm sewing area to the right of the needle, high resolution screen, and twin needle programme. There are 136 stitches to choose from, plus you can change and save the settings of a built-in one to your personal preferences. Price: £729
LIMITED EDITION
Get creative with one of these great PFAFF models!
CREATIVE ICON
With more than 750 embroidery designs and lots of exclusive stitches, the latest addition to PFAFF’s range has so much to offer! Other features include an enhanced integrated dual feed, WiFi, unmatched power and stability – plus the largest, brightest workspace and tablet display. Price: £9,999
BRAND NEW RELEASE
PASSPORT 3.0
Compact and portable, this machine features a start/stop button so you can sew without the foot control, making long seams, free-motion work and buttonholes a breeze. The speed slider provides full control, whilst the feed dogs can be lowered from the back of the free arm – ideal for stippling, embroidery and darning. Price: £579
EASY TO USE!
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sew SHOPPING
“The Performance 5.2 is perfect for quilters, home decor sewists and fashion enthusiasts” A great performance is guaranteed from this model, which boasts a super-sized sewing area to the right of the needle – perfect for large amounts of fabric or wadding. Various functions, from tying off threads and raising or lowering the presser foot to bringing down the feed dogs and cutting the bobbin threads, are done with the touch of a button. The colour touch screen is easy to use, guiding you through all the processes and allowing you to customise and combine stitches. Meanwhile, the integrated feed system makes light work of sewing multiple fabric layers or bulky seams to perfection every time.
KEY FEATURES: 3 Decorative stitches 3 Four built-in fonts 3 Stitch creator feature 3 Patchwork programme 3 Taper 9mm stitches 3 Electronic knee lift 3 Straight stitch needle plate sensor £2,069, pfaff.com, 01527 519480
SHOP
WHAT’S ON OFFER?
Rutland Sewing enjoys a superb location at Rutland Village and Garden Centre, which is close to Rutland Water in Oakham. Open from Tuesday to Sunday, the shop is an agent for PFAFF and Baby Lock sewing machines as well as Horn Furniture. In addition, the team stocks an amazing range of patchwork and dressmaking fabrics, haberdashery, patterns from Simplicity, New Look and Vogue, books, quilting tools and more. Classes and workshops in quilting, dressmaking, patchwork, needlework, using sewing machines and many other techniques are also available in a dedicated, fully-equipped training area every day, plus at evenings and weekends.
of the
MONTH
EDITOR’S PICK!
3E xtensive selection of sewing machines 3W ide range of fabrics and haberdashery 3 Regular classes and workshops 3 Ample free parking Visit Rutland Sewing, Unit 1A Rutland Village, Rutland Garden Centre, Ashwell Road, Oakham, LE15 7QN. Alternatively, log on to rutlandsewing.co.uk, or call 01572 756468.
h s a t myrset... sec
SMARTER BY PFAFF 260C
Preparing this machine for sewing is simple thanks to the integrated needle threader, taking care of this often fiddly task before you select your preferred stitch. The needle up/down feature allows for easy pivoting, appliqué and more – at the end, you simply press a button to stop automatically and tie off. Price: £326
Sew reader, Monika Danielak says...
“I adore my PFAFF Quilt Expression 4 – I bought it after joining a patchwork group as part of my integration when I started a new life in France. It’s a very versatile machine and I use it for patchwork, quilting, bags and cushions. I recently started making clothes, which led to my purchase of a matching PFAFF overlocker as well!” 49
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sew charity
CRAFT FOR A CAUSE BY SEWING A
poppy brooch
Get started • Felt: red, green, black • Embroidery thread: black, light green • Safety pin
Size
7cm diameter (excl. leaf)
With Remembrance Sunday approaching on 12th November, it’s a chance for us to remember those who served during WWI. If you’d like to handstitch this felt poppy by Corinne Bradd, why not send it to Wonderwool Wales? The organisers are calling on crafted versions for a ‘Curtain of Poppies’ commemorative installation that will be on show in April next year. The aim is to raise 887,858 textile poppies – one to commemorate each person from the UK who died serving their country.
Make a poppy
1
Cut two poppies in red felt from the template (below). Using two strands of black embroidery thread, backstitch lines radiating from the centre of one. Sew a 2cm diameter circle of running stitch around the centre to gather the petals, but don’t fasten off. Snip a fringe into one long edge of a 1cm x 3cm strip of black felt and roll it up. Pop it inside the gathered circle and tighten the running stitch around it to secure. Layer the embroidered flower onto the plain one, then sew together with small stitches at the base of the rolled strip. Cut a 7mm x 7cm strip and a leaf from green felt. Sew the strip to the leaf back to stabilise it, using a small running stitch and green embroidery thread, then attach to the back of the poppy. Affix a safety pin to the reverse.
2 3
Lest we forget Send completed poppies to: Curtain of Poppies, Wonderwool Wales Ltd, Graig-Fach Farm, Cross Ash, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire, NP7 8PD
Leaf template Poppy template
Find out more or make a donation to The Royal British Legion at britishlegion.org.uk 51
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Get started MAKE A GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT
• Patterned cotton, fat quarter
macaron purse
• Felt scrap • 18cm zip • Mountboard • Toy stuffing • Ricrac • Glue
Size 6.5cm diameter
Cutting guide Macaron top and bottom: cut two 10.5cm diameter circles
If you’ve been feeling inspired by The Great British Bake Off or know a baking fan, this cute accessory project by Corinne Bradd is sure to hit the sweet spot. It’s a great project for using up small scraps in your stash, and is a good chance for newbie stitchers to practise inserting a zip.
Zip tabs: cut two 4cm squares Zip cover: cut two 3cm x 5cm pieces Inner casing: cut two 7.5cm circles each from both mountboard and felt 5mm seam allowance used throughout.
Stitch a sweet treat
1
Hand-sew across the top of the zip end to hold the sides together. On each zip tab piece, fold two side edges to meet in the middle and secure, then fold each in half lengthways. Sew a tab to each of the zip ends so the fold sits over the zip and the raw edges are at the end. Pin the zip cover pieces right sides together, sew along both long sides, then turn right sides out to make a tube. Fold
2
in 5mm on the raw ends of the tube and slip the ends of the zip inside to make a 6.5cm diameter ring. Stitch the tube to each end of the zip, covering the raw edges of the tabs. Turn the ring inside out so the zip pull is on the inside. Sew around the macaron top to gather the edges slightly to make it 6.5cm in diameter. With right sides together, pin and stitch to one top edge of the zip ring. Turn right sides out, then add stuffing.
3
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4
Slip a mountboard circle carefully inside the zip ring, pushing down inside to cover the stuffing. The board should create a lip around the outside of the ring and stay inside. Glue the felt circle to the mountboard. Slip stitch the casing in place. Repeat steps 3-4 for the other side of the zip ring to make the macaron bottom. Sew ricrac trim around both halves of the zip over the seam.
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ZIP IT UP! A zipper foot will make this project even easier – they are narrow with notches that sit either side of the needle, and butt right up next to the zip, allowing you to sew really close to the teeth.
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sew kids
Sew a keepsake
EVERYONE NEEDS A HUG FROM OUR
Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Use it to cut two bears from patterned fabric, then one 10cm x 11cm piece from linen.
teddy bear
Get started
1
Fold each edge of the pocket to the wrong side by 1cm, then press. Add ribbon across the top and tuck the ends under. Sew a felt snowflake and button on centrally.
• White patterned cotton • White linen • Felt scraps: white, cream • Brown embroidery thread • 14cm rustic ribbon • White felt snowflake • Toy stuffing • Three wooden buttons
Size
Chances are that as a child, you had a little toy that you took everywhere. This Christmas, why not stitch a special teddy as a gift for a younger relative who will treasure it, just like you did? This simple project by Kasja Kinsella is made by stitching just two main body pieces together, with an optional pocket that you can add to the front.
18cm x 24cm 5mm seam allowance used throughout.
2
Pin the pocket centrally to one of the bear pieces and stitch along all of the seams twice, except for the top, so that each row is 5mm apart.
Pop a little gift in the pocket!
3
Attach a button and 2cm white felt circle for each eye. Add a 1cm cream circle for the mouth and work a cross stitch in brown embroidery thread.
sew
free template download
4
Pin the bears right sides together, then sew around leaving a small gap. Turn right sides out and stuff. Fold in the edges of the gap and sew closed. Stitch all around the teddy body once again to secure.
sewmag.co.uk /templates
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Stitch a fruity modern throw
1
Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Trace the appliqué shape onto the smooth side of lightweight fusible interfacing and cut it out roughly.
2
Pin the interfacing, glue side down, onto the right side of the fabric, then sew around the traced shape with 2mm-long stitches. Trim the seam to 6mm, clip the curves and snip across the interfacing.
COSY UP UNDER STUART HILLARD’S
orange peel quilt
Sometimes really simple blocks make for the most striking quilts, such as in Stuart Hillard’s take on this traditional design. You could scale this project up or down to suit the fabric you have – just ensure the appliqué is 1.2cm shorter than the diagonal length of the background piece to allow for the seam allowance when making up.
sew
Get started • Fabric, assorted orange prints, 14cm x 38cm per block • Fabric, dark grey, 26.7cm square per block
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Size Block: 25.4cm square 64-block quilt: 2.09m square 6mm seam allowance used throughout.
3
Turn the appliqué right sides out through the gap. Finger press around the edge of the shape – do not use heat at this stage, or the glue on the interfacing will melt.
4
Position the appliqué shape on the block fabric, leaving 6mm at the corners. Iron in place. Repeat to make more blocks, sew together into equal rows, then sew these together. See Finishing Up panel to complete.
Finishing up! Stitch a decorative pattern across the quilt using a free motion presser foot. Layer over wadding and backing fabric, then stitch. Pin bias tape around the edges of the quilt and sew in place. 58
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Get the book Find lots more designs in Use Scraps, Sew Blocks, Make 100 Quilts by Stuart Hillard, £22.95, pavilionbooks.com
sew PEOPLE
Who doesn’t love gathering conkers?
This month I am loving Donegal tweeds. They are perfect for pretty much everything I want to make right now! From £10 per metre, fabworks.co.uk
AW17 Hygge collection, debenhams.com
Velour cushion, £12, mandco.com
At home with...
STUART HILLARD I’m staying warm this month, without touching the thermostat!
I can’t get enough of autumn! Whether it’s taking walks in the woods — kicking leaves and searching for conkers — or cutting quilt blocks and stitching myself a little winter insurance policy, I love this time of year. I make chutneys, fill the freezer, and prepare myself for the inevitable chill. I don’t enjoy feeling cold at home but with rising fuel prices – not to mention the devastating effect that burning fossil fuels is having on our planet – I try as much as I can to keep the temperature dial on my central heating turned below 18°C. This simply means getting savvy in other ways to help stay warm... for example, did you know that turning your thermostat down by just 1° can reduce your heating costs by 10%, and save as much as £85 a year? This got me to thinking of other ways to turn up the heat without so much as touching that dial.
PLAY MIND TRICKS We all know that colours can be warm (think of the desert… golden yellows, oranges, reds and browns), or cool (move your mind to a leafy forest or frozen tundra where greens and blues dominate). Is this enough to change our perception of the temperature, and can warm colours actually make us feel warmer? Research suggests that in fact
they can, so one really smart move this winter is to bring in richer, warmer colours into our living spaces. Terracottas, deep plums and reds, plus browns and oranges will all make a space feel cosier and generally smaller too, but large spaces are often associated with coolness, so making a space seem smaller makes it more inviting. Warm light can also help an area feel more temperate, psychologically and physically. Candles give off a yellow light that will make any environment seem cosy, and they do
“It was great to see so many new and independent pattern companies doing well at the GBSB Live!” actually give off heat! Changing your lightbulbs to warm ones can also help, whilst woollen throws and quilts make a room look snuggly – when you are feeling chilly, there’s nothing nicer than nestling under a blanket. As always, balance is key, so add a little freshness in your decor with a touch of blue, green or violet, and keep bedrooms predominantly cool with just a few warm accents. Warm colours are stimulating, which can be great to energise your mood when appropriate, but in the bedroom it’s best to keep things calm and soothing to ensure a good night’s rest.
Here’s my tomato chutneys – all made and ready to mature! SEWING BEE REUNION In other news, I was very recently at the ExCeL in London where The Great British Sewing Bee held its first live event. I spent four wonderful days in the company of contestants from all four series, including my lovely fellow Sew columnist and series one survivor, Lauren Guthrie, and thousands of other fabulous sewing enthusiasts. It was a wonderful chance to see old friends, make new ones, and share our love of all things sewn. Tweed, wool and cosy jerseys were being snapped up everywhere, plus it was great to see so many new and independent pattern companies doing so well. Lisa Falconer from The Avid Seamstress stole my heart with her chic, simple and desirable patterns… and I was not alone! I also had the enormous pleasure of meeting our Dressmaker of the Year 2017 winner, Portia Lawrie, and presenting her with the award she so deserves. Her quilted denim coat blew all the judges away with it's innovative design, use of re-purposed jeans and attention to detail. Word on the stitchy street is that the next DMOTY contest will soon be launching… watch this space! Till next month!
Stuart x
You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 674 or visit stuarthillard.com 59
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CHRISTMAS CHIC
Creating a warm festive style in your home without going completely overboard isn’t always easy but rest assured, your home can still look Christmassy with a pared back scheme. It means that the style won’t intrude too much on your living space, making it that much easier to adjust back when the tree comes down in January! To make this look work, the secret lies in choosing fabrics that subtly nod towards Christmas, rather than shouting about it.
Snowflake in grey on cream, Scandi 4 collection from Makower UK, £12 per metre, plushaddict.co.uk
FABRIC BUY!
Embroidered velvet fur in wine, £4.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
Bargain
VICKI HERRON, MINERVA CRAFTS
KELLIE ROSE, PLUSH ADDICT
“With its expensive feel, this fabric would make beautiful soft furnishings such as cushions, blankets and even a tree skirt. At £4.99 per metre, it’s a cheap way of adding luxury to your home!”
“Grey is the latest on-trend neutral, and we’re selling more fabric in this shade than any other right now! This print would add understated sophistication to your living room this Christmas.”
Bargain
Christmas snow stars cotton in blue, £4.59 per metre or £4.99 per pack of four fat quarters, fabricland.co.uk
Capel in red, Liberty Tana lawn, £22.50 per metre, sewbox.co.uk
FABRIC BUY!
MAXINE SMITH, FABRIC LAND
SUSAN STEVENSON, SEWBOX
“This rich vermillion red Liberty Tana lawn lends itself so well to festive projects, from bunting and tree decs to a stocking, table runner, decorative bows, and even for making gifts.”
“Also available in green and red, why not combine these prints to make a patchwork stocking? You could also use bigger yardages to make a fab door bow, instead of the usual organzas and tulle!” 60
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“A great way of adding subtle interest with this scheme is by introducing texture and colour through your choice of trims – look out for lengths of tiny pom-poms, satin ribbons, and even jacquard versions”
Hand stitch decs in the same theme
Jenny Ward, Editor
johnlewis.com
Add various shades of blue, red & grey
Tie in your gift wrap to match
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t l e f y t novel s t c e j o pr
If you’re yet to discover the wonders of felt, it’s nice to work with because it is so easy to cut, doesn’t fray, and is super cheap too. It comes in a huge variety of colours, so is well-suited to fun festive projects like our designers have created here… if you can’t have a jolly cactus, gingerbread cat house, or string of faux lights at Christmas, then when can you? You could even get the kids involved in the cutting and sticking to make it a fun activity for all of the family.
Get started • Felt: dark and light green, yellow, orange, dark and light blue, pale and bright pink, red • Toy stuffing • Pompom trim • Wool pompoms • Ricrac: blue, pink, green • Cord • Thick card • Duct tape • 15cm diameter flower pot • Cardboard box, 28cm x 36cm x 21cm tall (when closed)
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free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Make a Crimbo cactus
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Trim two 20cm x 50cm pieces of green felt. Put one Designer: Ruth Oliver down and lay the two stuffed Size: 53cm x 53cm arms onto it, experimenting with Download and print the the position and overlapping the template at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Cut out the arms ends of the arms over the long of the cactus from green felt and edge by 1.5cm. Place the second sew the two larger ones together piece on top and pin the sides. Stitch up both edges with a 5mm around the edges with a 5mm seam, but not the top. seam, leaving the flat end open. Hand-sew a running stitch Use pinking shears to finish the 1cm from the top around raw edges, then stuff. Repeat the top of the middle piece, for the smaller arm.
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then pull the ends to gather the top and round it off. Stuff the middle section. The arms may need to be stitched to the middle to remain upright. Sew up the bottom by gathering the base, as for the top. Use a glue gun around the top and insides of the flower pot and position the felt
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cactus inside to secure – push it to the bottom so it doesn’t topple. To make a flower for the top, cut a number of pink felt pieces into a spikey petal shape, overlapping them to create a bloom. Fringe on the long side of a 4cm x 12cm rectangle of yellow felt, roll up along the uncut edge and stitch to secure. Attach to the middle of the pink petals. Decorate the cactus with mini baubles, wool pompoms and pompom trim.
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Sew a whimsical cat house Designer: Corinne Bradd Size: 18.5cm x 32cm x 36cm Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Open the flaps of the cardboard box and cut each side of the two smaller flaps diagonally to make triangles (to resemble gable ends, the upper part of the wall at the front), then the longer ones to 5cm tall so they can lay against the gable ends. Tape to secure. Use the template to cut an arched door from the front and tape around the inside of it to neaten. Cut orange felt large enough to wrap around the box and a little taller than the gable ends. Wrap around the house, pin where the felt joins, then trace around the gables, roof supports and doorway. Remove the felt and trim the excess. Re-wrap to check the fit, pin the join, then mark the corners of the house. Use the template to cut four window frames from yellow and four arched windows from pale pink felt. Sew the frames to the arches, then stitch two windows to each long side section. Trim each frame edge with ricrac, and the doorway with two rows of ricrac. Use the template to cut lengths of pale pink felt into kerbstone scallops and join end-to-end before sewing to the bottom edge of the felt cover. Add ricrac to the lower
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free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates edge, then adhere 3cm diameter circles of coloured felt around the doorway. Cut two triangles of orange felt to match the points of the gables, then sew one inside the cover on each shorter edge to make a sleeve. Sew up the main cover join, remove the pins and slip the cover over the cardboard box, allowing the gables to sit inside the sleeves to stop the cover sliding down.
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Join two 22cm x 40cm pieces of thick card with tape along one long edge to make a roof. Glue a 4cm x 36cm strip of pale pink felt to the lower edge on each side of the roof. Use the template to cut eight scalloped lengths of pale pink felt, four with a half tile on the left and four with a half tile on the right. Decorate each strip with 3cm diameter felt circles and a line of running stitch around the scallops before gluing
to the roof from the bottom up so they overlap. Fold a larger strip of felt in half lengthways and sew a running stitch along it, 1cm from the fold. Cut another scalloped section from the felt, lining the template up with the running stitch. Decorate the tiles on both sides of the fold as before and glue to the apex of the roof. Hand stitch pompom trim around the whole roof and place onto the house.
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LIGHT TEMPLATE
Bargain
FABRIC BUYS!
Stitch Carnaby lights Designer: Lucinda Ganderton Size: 3cm x 6.5cm Use the template to cut two bulb shapes from felt. Fold a 7cm length of cord in half and sew the ends to the top edge of one felt piece to make
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a hanging loop. Pin both bulb shapes together and oversew or blanket stitch around the edges, leaving the top open. Stuff firmly. Cut two tops from yellow felt using the template, then sew the side edges together. Slot the casing over the open edge of the bulb with the scalloped edges facing down.
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Sew the upper sides together, encasing the loop. Stitch through all the layers at the points between each scallop on the yellow felt. Repeat to make six more light bulbs in various colours. Thread a length of cord through the loops of each bulb, knotting every one in place and allowing enough spare thread at either end for hanging.
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SHOPPER
************************
CHEAP AS CHIPS! Plain acrylic felt is available from Minerva Crafts from as little as 29p per 6� square sheet, in 48 colours. minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!
the BOOKSHELF our favourite sewing titles this month TRIM THE TREE: CHRISTMAS ORNAMENTS TO STITCH by Annie's Sewing Enjoy filling your tree this year with special decorations that are handmade with love. This collection of designs is sure to introduce you to new techniques, with projects like a lollipop made from piping, an adorable fleece reindeer, appliqué nativity scene and so much more. All the templates are provided full-size in a handy pull-out too. Annie's Publishing, £7.99, searchpress.com
QUILTED HOLIDAY TABLES by Annie's Sewing Complete beginners new to quilting will be able to dive right into this book, thanks to the clear instructions and illustrations that show you the basic methods you'll need to stitch beautiful runners, mats and coasters for the festive season. The designs include festive motifs like reindeer and trees, along with a host of pretty patterns that would work all year round when made in different colourways. Annie's Publishing, £10.99, searchpress.com
STITCH PEOPLE by Jo Dixey Learn the art of embroidery with the guidance of an RSN-trained professional, starting with simple stitched line 'drawings' and appliqué, before working your way up to larger creations such as a stitch sampler and embroidered jacket. Not only will you learn new skills – you'll also be able to relax and de-stress as you stitch the quirky human designs. Search Press, £12.99, searchpress.com
LOVE TO SEW: CHRISTMAS STOCKINGS by Rachel Rowe No Stitchmas would be complete without a handmade stocking (full of habby goods, naturally). Choose from a mini advent calendar, giant gift sack, the much-loved traditional version, and lots more! All of the techniques are really clearly explained, with a few handy tips for good measure. Whatever your style, from kitsch to Scandi, the whole family is covered! Search Press, £7.99, searchpress.com
COMPLETE GUIDE TO DRESSMAKING
Editor’s by Jules Fallon pick This resource will be vital for newbies and experienced
stitchers alike, who are in need of a refresher. It covers all the major techniques you'll need to become a confident dressmaker, from pattern cutting and altering to shaping and finishing techniques. It's built on years of teaching experience, so the handy troubleshooters will answer all of your questions before you've even had the chance to ask them! Search Press, £15.99, searchpress.com
SEASONAL TABLE TOPPERS by Chris Malone These whimsical designs are sure to cheer up your kitchen, and not just at Christmas. In this book, you'll find the know-how and templates to stitch table runners, mats, napkin rings, a casserole carrier and more – all in festive, nature or picnic themes. You'll enjoy stitching great-looking functional items for yourself or as gifts! Annie's Publishing, £9.99, searchpress.com
20 TO MAKE: FELT CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS by Corinne Lapierre Decorating your home for the holidays with felt is cheap, easy and a fun way to get the kids involved. This little book will inspire you with the diversity of what you can create, with everything from a cute gingerbread garland and easy place setting, to reusable gift tags, a woven basket and more. Start now and you'll be able to make all of them before the big day! Search Press, £4.99, searchpress.com
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Ceramics, from £13.26, ceramic hedelweiss.it
sew home
FABRIC EDIT
Snowflakes Red
Cream holly parcel bauble, £4, tch.net
The beautiful Christmas 2017 Traditional collection from Makower UK has got everyone at Sew HQ in the festive spirit! It sees classic reindeer, holly, fir tree and snowflake motifs paired with ornate paisley and dash prints in shades of red, green and cream with lush metallic gold accents – perfect for creating something seasonal for the home.
Owl decoration with bell, £6.95, dotcomgiftshop.com
Folklore snowflake trees bauble, £4, johnlewis.com
Embroidered holly cushion, £40, pignut.co.uk
Dash Green Reindeer Scatter
Nordic gift box decorations, £6 for two, tch.net
Paisley bottle bag, £3.50, annabeljames.co.uk
Holly
Bauble Spot Red Mistletoe Christmas tree with robin, £14.95, dotcomgift shop.com
Paisley Cream Trees Green
Scenic
Visit makoweruk.com to find your nearest stockist. 65
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Susie Johns’
WORK BUTTONHOLE STITCH TO DECORATE
ADVENT CALENDAR Get started • Cotton, two printed and one plain red fat quarters, 20cm x 30cm plain yellow, 50cm x 72cm plain blue • Fusible web • Fusible fleece, 49cm x 71cm • Yellow embroidery thread • Green satin ribbon, 2.5m (15mm wide), 5.5m (10mm wide) • Wooden dowel, 75cm • Embroidery hoop • Chalk pencil
The advantage of a fabric advent calendar over a cardboard version is that it has a long life, is easily personalised, plus can be filled not only with chocolates but other tiny treats. Here, the buttonhole AKA blanket stitch has been used to attach the countdown numbers on each of the little pockets. As the name may imply, the stitch is commonly used to create buttonholes by hand – but it can also be used for edging, filling, outlining and appliqué, and is rather easy to get the hang of.
Size 48cm x 70cm
Make numbered pockets
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Download and print the number templates from sewmag.co.uk/templates. Draw a 40cm square on red cotton fabric with chalk pencil, then divide this into 25 8cm squares. Trace the numbers onto the paper backing of fusible web. Adhere the web onto the wrong side of yellow fabric, then cut out the numbers. Place each one onto a square, then fuse in place. Place the fabric in an embroidery hoop, with the number positioned centrally. Thread a crewel needle with a single strand of yellow embroidery thread and bring it up through the fabric, close to the edge of the number. Work buttonhole stitch all around the shape (see Buttonhole Stitch panel, opposite). When you return to the starting point, fasten off. Repeat for all the other numbers, press, then cut out the squares. Cut 25 pieces of 15mm wide ribbon that are 8.5cm long. Fold one in half lengthways and place the top edge of a pocket inside the fold, then hand or machine stitch in place. Trim off the excess at either end. Repeat for the other pockets.
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Stitch a calendar
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Stitch the two printed fat quarters together, then trim to a 50cm x 72cm panel. Apply fusible fleece to the wrong side, then place on top of the blue backing fabric, right sides together. Pin and stitch around, leaving a 20cm opening on one short edge. Turn right sides out, tuck 1cm under on the open edge, press, then slipstitch the gap closed.
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Lay the calendar right sides up, then arrange the numbered pockets in five rows of five, leaving 4cm at the bottom and between each row. Keep the pocket edges close together. Pin, then stitch 6mm from the edge across the base and along both sides. Stitch lengths of 10mm wide ribbon across the bottom of each row, close to the ribbon edges on both sides. Next, add lengths of ribbon vertically to
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free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates cover the side edges of the pockets. Tuck any exposed ribbon ends under for a neat finish. At the top of the calendar, fold 4cm to the back and stitch in place to form a casing, then push the wooden dowel through. Tie the ends of the remaining 10mm wide ribbon to the ends of the dowel to form a hanger.
sew home Some people find it easier to work buttonhole stitch from right to left and others from left to right; do whatever suits you best.
Buttonhole Stitch If working on plain fabric, you may find it useful to draw a pair of parallel guidelines. When working this stitch to attach appliqué shapes, the edge of the appliqué fabric becomes the top line and you can choose the height of the stitch as you insert the needle down into the fabric shape.
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Bring the needle out at A. Insert the needle at B above A and bring it out at C, directly below B, keeping the working thread under the needle.
B A
D
C
E
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Pull the thread through to form the stitch. Insert the needle at D and bring it out at E, directly below D, with the thread under the needle.
B
D
C
A
E
F G
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Continue working stitches, keeping the height and spacing as even as possible. The stitches on the calendar are spaced out a little more than shown on the diagrams.
B A
C
“When fusing the numbers, you may want to protect your iron’s base plate by placing a sheet of baking paper on top of the fabric” Susie Johns, Sew designer
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B D A E
FD
C
GE
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When working around curves, fan out the stitches slightly along the top edge to create the shape.
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6 WAYS WITH
sew gifts
Lewis and Irene
Countryside Winter This lovely festive collection from Lewis and Irene, in rich wine and navy shades, is inspired by the great outdoors during winter – complete with robins, foxes, owls and snowflake motifs. Sew's designer Corinne Bradd has used it here to stitch some lovely Christmas gifts for each member of the family – cute baby rattles for new arrivals, a smart wallet for dad, a robin tablet or book stand for kids and teens, and a handy carryall for mum's bits and bobs.
Get started • Patterned cotton • Coordinating plain cotton • Flexible leather, 20cm x 30cm (2mm thick) • Fusible interfacing • Medium-weight felt wadding • Felt: navy, orange • Toy stuffing • Embroidery thread • Extra strong thread • Ribbon • Black beads, two 10mm • Leather awl • Leather glue • Rattle insert • Rice (optional)
To find your nearest stockist, visit lewisandirene.com 71
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free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Make a wallet
Whip up a Crimbo carry all
Size: 7cm x 11cm (closed), 11cm x 19cm (open)
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Download and print the wallet templates from sewmag.co.uk /templates. Use them to cut one main section and four sleeves from leather. Trim 10.7cm x 18.5cm of interfacing and fuse it to the reverse of a slightly larger rectangle of fabric, pressing the fabric edges over the interfacing. Crease the main leather panel at the fold lines, ironing each one under a press cloth. Lightly glue the fabric panel to the leather one, wrong sides together, leaving a small gap at each end. Stagger the sleeve sections 1cm apart and glue to the main section around the straight edges only. Use an awl to mark holes around the fabric edges of the wallet through all layers to stitch through, 4mm in and 4mm apart. Use a long piece of extra strong thread to work a running stitch through the holes, starting on the inside of the wallet. When you reach the end, turn back and
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Size: 22cm x 24cm
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sew through the holes in the opposite direction to make a continuous line of stitching. Fasten at the end and glue the knot to secure.
Leather clever Be careful when piercing with the awl as it will leave permanent holes in the leather.
Cut two 11cm squares and three 11cm x 21cm rectangles of striped fabric. Place each piece face-up onto felt wadding and zigzag stitch around the edges. Trim two 8.5cm x 24cm pieces of contrasting red fabric and two 10.5cm x 24cm pieces of navy felt. Pair up and sew, right sides together, along one long edge. Open out and fold the right sides of the fabric over so the raw edges line up and there is a band of felt along the top edge. Topstitch along the bottom edge of this band. Repeat with two 8.5cm x 14cm pieces of the same fabric and two 10.5cm x 14cm pieces of felt. Tack a pocket piece to both ends of each striped panel. Make tucks in the bases of the pockets and tack down along the bottom edge to fit. Topstitch down the centre of the longer pockets if desired. With right sides together, pin the panels to the four edges of the remaining striped rectangle. Match up the side seams and sew. Turn right sides out. Cut three rectangles
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Closed wallet
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and two squares from the lining fabric as for the striped one, then sew together and slip inside the basket, tacking around the top. Join several 3cm wide strips of fabric end-to-end to make binding. Sew this around the top of the bag on the right side. Turn under 5mm of the raw edge, fold over the edge of the basket and slip stitch to the inside. Cut one 4cm x 35cm strip of fabric and two of felt for the handle. Topstitch the two pieces of felt together, 3mm from each long edge. Fold under 7mm along each long edge of the fabric strip and topstitch this down the centre of the felt handle. Pin and stitch the ends of the handle to the inside of the basket.
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sew gifts Thank you to Sew reader Huw Jenkins for helping us name our mascot! Help us with suggestions for next month’s at facebook.com/sewhq
Three to make!
sew
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Stitch Bobbin the robin stand
Sew three rattles
Size: 17cm x 35cm
Size: 7cm x 20cm (excl. ears)
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leaving a 6cm gap in the middle. Turn the robin right sides out, then flatten the bottom seam. Topstitch a line across, 3.5cm from the seam, then firmly fill the resulting tube with rice. Fold in the raw edges and slip stitch closed. Fill the robin halfway with rice, then the rest with toy stuffing and close up the gap. Fold the top point of the shape forwards to make a flat top. Cut a beak from orange felt and oversew to the point, then firmly stitch two black beads either side for eyes.
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Make two
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A Re to pp d b p liq re tri of c ué ast an re on gl am e
Cr ea m
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d Re
[ii]
[i]
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1
Download and print the rattle templates from sewmag. co.uk/templates. Cut two handles and two heads from fabric. Stitch a head to the top of each handle, right sides together. Cut two pairs each of the fox, mouse or rabbit ears. Sew two ear pieces right sides together, leaving the bottom edge open. Turn right sides out, then press. Repeat with the other pair. Tack the ears to the top of one head, matching up the raw edges. Pin and sew the second head over the first, right sides together, making sure that the tops of the ears don't get caught in the stitching. Leave 4cm along one edge of the handle open for turning. Clip the curves, then turn the rattle right sides out. Stuff the head, adding a rattle insert in the centre. Stuff the handle firmly, then fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip stitch it closed. Use three strands of embroidery thread to work facial features onto one side of the head, using running stitch for the thin lines and and satin stitch for fuller areas. Sew a ribbon bow to one ear or around the neck.
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W in g
g in W
d Re
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ed ge s
2
cream triangle, lining up the raw edges at the right-angled corner [ii]. Pin the two squares right sides together so the smaller red triangle sits at the bottom left. Sew together up the left, across the top (leaving a gap for stuffing) and down the right. Take the open bottom edge, pinch in the centre of each piece of fabric and pull apart so the side seams match up in the middle, forming a triangular red breast at the front. Stitch together,
Ra w
1
Cut a 15cm square of red fabric in half diagonally for the wings. Fold each in half, right sides together, sew along the long raw edge, then turn right sides out. Slip a triangle of felt the same size inside. Tack the open end closed. Cut one 25cm square each of red and cream fabric. Trim both in half diagonally. Lay the red triangles out flat, diagonal sides next to each other. Place a wing on top of each along the centre line, matching the raw edges so the sewn points of the small triangles align with the rightangled corners – refer to our diagram [i]. Tack in place. Sew one cream and red triangle right sides together along the long diagonal edge. Repeat so you have two bi-coloured squares each with a wing extending from the middle. Cut another 15cm square of a different red fabric in half diagonally and press 5mm of the slanted edge under on both pieces. Pin and appliqué onto the corner of the
Get started • 14-count Aida, 30cm square • White felt, 30cm diameter circle • Embroidery thread, 11 colours • Tapestry needle, size 24 • Embroidery hoop, 25cm • Blue matte emulsion paint
BRIGHTEN UP WALLS WITH A
cross stitch hoop If you’re yet to try cross stitch or are looking for a speedy project, Chloe Hailwood’s colourful wall art would make a lovely Christmas gift – if you can bear to part with it! Featuring a lyric from the Silent Night carol, simply follow our online chart to work the stitches in the indicated colours.
Create some wall art
1
Download the cross stitch chart from sewmag.co.uk /templates. Paint the embroidery hoop and leave to dry. Mount the Aida in the hoop, then follow the chart to work the star motif with two strands of yellow embroidery thread. Move on to the wording, using two strands of thread in a different colour for each letter. Trim excess thread and remove the Aida from the hoop. Press the reverse under a pressing cloth, then mount the cross stitch back in the hoop, positioning the star centrally. Trim the excess Aida on the reverse, leaving 3cm around, then sew a running stitch around the circumference. Pull tight to gather, then secure. Whip stitch a felt circle to the back.
2 3
sew
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
14-count Aida fabric, £4 for 30cm x 46cm, hobbycraft.co.uk
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enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways MADEIRA THREADS We all dream of having an organised thread library with the perfect one always within reach. You’ll be well on your way to this with a £100 bundle of Madeira threads, including Aerofil sew-all, Rayon for embroidery, Polyneon high sheen and Polyneon multicolour. That’s 72 spools! madeira.co.uk We have five bundles to give away. To enter, tick MADEIRA
Worth
£100!
1 to win! SIMPLICITY SATIN 197
This model is not just a pretty face. It also boasts amazing features including 197 stitch patterns, an auto threading needle, drop-in bobbin and thread cutter. Create and Craft is also offering an extension table and three Simplicity patterns for good measure! createandcraft.com
November
We have one machine to give away. To enter, tick CREATE
BUMPER Giveaways
We’re giving you £7,350+ of fab gifts! sew SUBSCRIPTION
Mega bundle
The Craft Store is offering a massive prize bundle worth £75, including a Florence the Flamingo kit and mini sewing tin, 2m of red leopard print spandex fabric, and a complete dressmaking kit to make a shirt dress with New Look 6449, 2.5m of denim, thread, interfacing and buttons. Visit craftstoreuk.com We have four bundles to give away. To enter, tick CRAFT STORE
Arguably the most desirable prize in the whole lot – but we might be biased. 13 issues of Sew jam-packed with sewing expertise delivered straight to your door, what more could a stitcher want? Visit sewmag.co.uk/subscribe
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We have one subscription to give away. To enter, tick SUBSCRIPTION
FREEMOVE AIR
Pressing is a vital part of dressmaking, so you want an iron that makes it effortless. Worth £79.99, Tefal’s cordless, lightweight Freemove Air allows you unrestricted movement (no lifting required as it slides into the base), plus features a smooth ceramic soleplate. It also recharges quickly and turns off after eight minutes. tefal.co.uk
Worth
£75!
We have six Freemove Air FV6520 irons to give away. To enter, tick TEFAL
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6 to win!
enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways TILDA SANTA
Stitching homemade decorations is the perfect family activity for the festive season. Get the kit to make your very own 52cm tall Scandi-style Santa from the latest Tilda Cottage collection. The only thing missing is a warm glass of mulled wine! Contact groves @stockistenquiries.co.uk We have five kits to give away. To enter, tick TILDA
ONLINE WORKSHOP
6
Brush up on your stitchy skills from the comfort of your own home by enrolling on your choice of video-based sewing course. Create a skirt, dress, jersey top or shirt using a PDF pattern, learning at your own pace with Tilly’s expert guidance. Check out the workshops at tillyandthebuttons.com
to win!
We have three online workshops to give away. To enter, tick TILLY
3 to win!
5 to win!
SPARKLE & FROST
Stitch your most festive projects yet with a Metallic Effect thread set by Gütermann, plus one metre of a gorgeous design from its French Cottage fabric collection... Just think of all the amazing gifts you’ll be able to whip up! Contact gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have six bundles to give away. To enter, tick GUTERMANN
5 to win! SIGNED BOOK! Who wants to win a copy of Use Scraps, Sew Blocks, Make 100 Quilts by our beloved columnist Stuart Hillard? It’s a fab book full of ingenious quilting ideas and techniques. Did we forget to mention that Stuart himself will be signing it? Form an orderly queue, please. pavilionbooks.com We have five signed books to give away. To enter, tick STUART HILLARD
We have more than
£7,350 OF PRESENTS TO DELIVER!
to say thank you to all our lovely readers!
This smart die-cutting machine will automatically shape intricate patterns out of everything from vellum paper to leather. You can use the 50,000-strong image library or upload your own – design your own project templates then take them straight to your sewing machine! uk.cricut.com
Worth
£229!
STITCHING, SEWING & HOBBYCRAFTS SHOW Treat yourself and a friend to a great day out at the Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts show at EventCity in Manchester from 1st -3rd February 2018. You’ll take away lots of inspiration and knowledge from your stitchy faves, plus your fill of the latest industry goodies. Tickets available at stitchandhobby.co.uk We have 15 pairs of tickets to give away. To enter, tick MANCHESTER
LUCKY DIP
CRICUT EXPLORE AIR
We have one Cricut Explore Air to give away. To enter, tick EXPLORE AIR
15
pairs to win!
Worth
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FESTIVE SEWING BOOKS
The UK’s leading arts and crafts title supplier Search Press is kindly offering a £50 festive book bundle containing every project you need to deck the halls (and the rest of your home) this season. You’ll enjoy stitching festive home makes and turning your hand to felting. Visit searchpress.com We have seven book bundles to give away. To enter, tick SEARCH 76
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Writing about sewing means that the Sew team has a bigger stockpile of patterns than we could ever stitch up, so we’re sharing ours with you! Select your size to win a surprise Simplicity or New Look pattern, which can be a simple top or Amazing Fit dress and everything in between. Visit simplicitynew look.com We have 100 patterns to give away. To enter, tick 6-10, 12-16 or 18-22
100 to win!
enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways KAWAII FABRIC
‘Kawaii’ means cute and we couldn’t think of a more apt word for this bundle, which you’ll have no trouble using over the holidays. It contains a variety of iron-on patches and half a metre each of festive fabrics, including Michael Miller. Visit kawaiifabric.com We have ten bundles to give away. To enter, tick KAWAII
BOOK VOUCHER Get the Christmas shopping done, or treat yourself to £77* worth of new crafty books with your online voucher. Browse craft titles at ctpub.com
5 to win!
We have three US $100 vouchers to give away. To enter, tick C&T
10 to win!
£77 £7 7
3
to win!
£77
*Exchange rate at time of printing: US $100 = £77.29
GROVES GOODIES
What a lovely gift for you! Five lucky readers will win a sturdy sewing box jam-packed with brilliant Hemline and Trimits goodies – from buttons, threads and a magnetic wrist pincushion to scissors, festive fat quarters and sparkly trims, worth over £65! Contact groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have five filled boxes to give away. To enter, tick GROVES
CHRISTMAS KNITS
JANOME EMBROIDERY MACHINE
Why settle for a jumper when you could stitch a whole Christmas outfit? Girl Charlee is offering four metres of festive fabrics worth £55 so you can spread the cheer around... or make multiple garments for yourself – we won’t tell Santa! View the full range of knits at girlcharlee.co.uk
Janome’s Memory Craft 400E embroidery machine makes it easier to personalise, embellish and monogram gifts than you could ever imagine, thanks to its extensive built-in design library, customisation software and USB port – which opens up a whole world of creative possibilities! See the full specification at janome.co.uk We have two MC400E machines to give away. To enter, tick MC400E
We have five bundles to give away. To enter, tick GIRL CHARLEE
Worth
Worth
£55!
Just tick the boxes to win!
!
£999 each!
To enter our giveaways, just tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry to us no later than 29.11.2017. Mark your envelope: Sew Christmas Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP2 8WG.
6-10
MADEIRA
12-16
MANCHESTER
18-22
SEARCH
Name
C&T
STUART HILLARD
Address
CRAFT STORE
SUBSCRIPTION
CREATE
TEFAL
MC400E
TILDA
EXPLORE AIR
TILLY
Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms/Other
Postcode Daytime phone Mobile
GIRL CHARLEE GROVES GUTERMANN KAWAII
Turn to p27 to win more fantastic prizes!
Email Date of birth Only one entry per household. Terms and conditions can be found online at sewmag.co.uk
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TRANSFORM FABRIC SCRAPS INTO A
sweet winter chalets
Get started
• Patterned cotton, fat quarter • White linen, 12cm x 18cm • Fabric scraps • Fusible interfacing, 18cm x 28cm • Fabric stabiliser, 12cm x 18cm • Fusible adhesive, 4.5cm x 10cm • Toy stuffing • Dry rice (optional)
Size
These sweet little houses with their snow-laden roofs would make cute festive table decorations, or a sweet winter scene on a shelf. If you’re new to toymaking, they are a good introduction to all of the basic techniques – such as clipping corners and curves into seams, interfacing smaller pieces, and stuffing it evenly. A single fat quarter will be enough to make the bases and walls of three houses. Just use fabric scraps from your stash for the windows and roofs!
32mm x 48mm
Cutting guide
Main house: cut one from patterned cotton Roof: cut two from white linen 5mm seam allowance used unless otherwise specified.
Make a cute cottage
Clipping corners and curves
1
2
3
4
5
6
Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates then snip the pieces according to the cutting guide. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the house piece, following the template for the positioning and size of each one. Affix two 32mm x 46mm pieces of stabiliser to one of the roof pieces, with the same spacing and seam allowance as the house piece.
Fold the fabric so that point E meets C/D, and point F meets G, creating an L-shaped seam. Pin and stitch from C/D to E, then from C/D/E to F/G. Turn the house right sides out, poking out the corners (there’s no need to clip the corners before). Fold in and tack the raw edge all around the top of the house.
Fuse adhesive to the reverse of a contrast cotton print. Cut 1cm wide strips into six 1.5cm length strips for windows and two 2.5cm lengths for doors. Peel off the backing paper and fuse to the right side of the house piece as indicated on the template. Use a short and narrow zigzag stitch to sew around each one, leaving the bottom of the doors unstitched.
Pin the two roof pieces right sides together, aligning the raw edges. Stitch a 1cm seam, leaving a 4cm turning gap. Clip the roof corners and turn it right sides out through the gap. Fold in and press the raw edges at the turning gap, before hand stitching it closed.
Taking note of the marked letter points on the template, fold the house wall right sides together so that points A and B meet. Pin the raw edges, then sew a 1cm seam just beyond the edge of the interfacing. Stop at point A/B and reverse stitch at either end. Fold the work so that point C meets D. Pin, then stitch as before, starting at A/B and finishing at C/D.
Fold the roof piece in half between the stabiliser sections, then stitch to the top of the walls, leaving one side open for filling. The roof edges should overhang the walls by 6mm. Weight the bottom 2.5cm with dry rice if desired, then fill the rest of the house with toy stuffing and stitch the gap closed.
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Clipping corners and curves is a good way of reducing bulk from the inside of seams, giving your finished project a smoother overall silhouette. When clipping corners, they should be cut across at an angle so that they are sharp when the work is turned right sides out. On curved seams, cut ‘V’-shaped notches into the seam allowance close to the stitch line. This will make the seam smooth when the work is turned right sides out. For the best results, snip very carefully with small, sharp scissors to avoid cutting through the seam line by mistake. Prym’s 14cm needlecraft scissors would be perfect for the task! £10.99, minervacrafts.com
sew kids
sew
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
get the
book
sew
SHOPPER ************************
ALL LINED UP These houses were made using Makower UK’s Linea 22 Shades collection in teal, Riviera blue, sunshine and cream. For stockists, visit makoweruk.com
Find more festive projects to make in Fat Quarter Christmas by Jemima Schlee. ÂŁ12.99, thegmcgroup.com
************************ thank you for shopping!
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your
SEWING GUIDE Get to grips with the dressmaking basics!
THE PERFECT FIT
The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size for you. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope. You can then make any alterations that are necessary. Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply
graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size. l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist, and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.
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TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS
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FULL BUST
WAIST Published By Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2017 All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.
HIPS
Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.
HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head. HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust. FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back. WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over the elastic. Keep the elastic handy for future garments. HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist. 84
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Find the FREE pattern for this kimono dress at sewmag.co.uk
READING A PATTERN
wear with
EASE
‘Ease’ is the amount required in a garment so you can move readily. Consider the fit you want – are you looking for a loose or close-fitted garment?
PREPARE YOUR PATTERN
Your pattern pieces can easily become crumpled when stored in the envelope, so it’s a good idea to give them a press before starting. This can be done as individual pieces or as one big sheet before cutting out. Use a cool setting on your iron, being careful not to burn the paper. Pressing the pattern will help ensure your fabric pieces are accurately cut.
CONSIDER YOUR FABRIC
SELVEDGES
FOLD
MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate different dress sizes. Cut accordingly to yours.
BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern, where you can make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.
TUCKS AND GATHERS Match the lines together when stitching.
GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric as you position your pieces.
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.
BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate the position for placement on a garment.
FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.
MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.
NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.
“When making the black lace dress (p31), the thread loop buttonhole stitch is used on the centre-back seam to securely join the bottom of the skirt lining and outer. To do it, press the seam allowance open and make a 1.5cm-long stitch down the middle. Strengthen it with a couple more on top to form the core. Beginning at the bottom, pick up a tiny amount of both the lining and outer and make a small stitch over the core, pulling the thread to flatten. Repeat until you have covered the entire length.” MELISSA HYLAND, DEPUTY EDITOR
PLACING YOUR PIECES
UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC
With the printed pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces themselves. Most patterns offer stitchers a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. The tissue paper patterns allow the motifs of the fabric to show through, which helps with pattern matching. It also allows you to adjust the placement if necessary. Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be placed on the material with the grain arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece slightly until both measurements are the same. Once you’re happy with the placement of your pattern pieces, carefully pin to secure.
Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:
WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.
WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. BIAS The bias grain is the diagonal line that runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body. SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the weft grain is the selvedge.
S BIA
Before you begin to cut out pattern pieces, it’s a good idea to wash your fabrics first. This means that you will know how the fabric reacts and also reduces the chance of shrinkage in your completed garment. Once the fabric has been washed, press the material with an iron using a suitable heat setting. Lay out your fabric on a large surface, ready to begin pinning and cutting.
The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are an important element to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once they’re cut.
WARP
WEFT
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STYLE CLASSICS
TRENCH COAT Make your next project an act of remembrance Words by Emma Thompson
Woollen ankle boots, £49.99, tkmaxx.com
Inspiration is often taken from those we admire and respect, so it’s hardly surprising that for the past century, designers have adopted the styles worn by the soldiers of WWI.
Although now loved for its flattering cut and ability to be styled with every outfit, the lightweight, waterproof trench coat was first worn by British soldiers during the Crimean War of 1835-1856. It was so well-suited to military use that Thomas Burberry submitted his ‘tielocken’ version to the British War Office in 1901. Made from beige gabardine (Burberry’s patented fabric, made from tightly woven waterproof worsted wool) with a removable woollen lining, it had epaulettes to display rank, a gun flap on the chest, and buttoned pockets for equipment. Other practical features included a back pleat, wrist straps and a storm flap, and even clever vents that helped to prevent unpleasant odours. Although never implemented as regulation uniform, this style of coat quickly became a popular choice amongst officers (who were allowed to wear tailored clothes) and proved itself so useful in the trenches that it was soon christened after them. When the army grew, Burberry, Aquascutum and other retailers had to mass produce them to keep up with the demand. Our troops became trendsetters as France, Germany, America, and other nations developed similar styles for their armies. Meanwhile, civilians
Lyndall sweater, £35, joythestore.com
at home were keen to snap up these garments because of the patriotism and high command associated with them. The trench coat’s popularity continued to grow, with many military features remaining in its design past the end of the war in 1918. Not only did these shape the distinctive look, they allowed it to easily slip into British fashion, preventing the officer’s favourite outerwear from being relegated behind a museum glass cabinet. The trench shot from the battlefield to stardom, becoming Hollywood’s go-to garment to dress detective and gangster characters and stars of the screen alike – iconically worn during Humphrey Bogart’s “Here’s looking at you, kid” line in Casablanca and Audrey Hepburn’s rain-drenched kiss in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. With its subtle design and neutral colour, it went from helping soldiers evade enemy attention to on-screen stardom, without any major changes to its design. When stitching your own, a good fit and finish are well worth the extra time and effort. Opt for lightweight coating materials like a wool blend or gabardine, and stick to camel, taupe and tan to keep it classic. Lining is optional, but will provide a luxurious feel and gives the opportunity to add colour inside. Whether you want stitch the original design as an act of remembrance this month, or pay homage whilst giving yours a modern or feminine twist, there are plenty of great patterns out there – don’t forget to have a film night, all in the name of research!
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Statement necklace, £27.50, whitestuff.com
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Ashley Nell Tipton women’s coats 8472, £8.95, simplicitynewlook.com
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Washable wool (polyester viscose blend) in camel, £10.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
Polyester twill in khaki green, £5.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
1917 advertisement for the Burberry Trench-warm coat. Image from Burberry.
*Code applies 50% discount on top of 50% off on-site promotion. Valid 18/10/17-28/11/17.
Paloma Faith in a Burberry trench coat at London Fashion Week 2014
Clocktower cord A-line skirt, £45, white stuff.com
Lupus bag, £60, jonesbootmaker.com
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