Kisaeng :
Uncovering Those Who Carried Korean Culture
기 생
K is a en g: Th e T r ue Ide n t i t y
09
01
S k ills a nd Ta le nt s M i sun de r st ood
21
I nf lu e nc e on Mod e rn S oc ie t y
15
Kisaeng: The True Identity
01
2 Kisaeng: the True Identity
S O C I A L S TAT U S
W
hat was their status? They were
ensure thorough oversight. The government followed
slaves still both received cheonmin rank. Their status
considered cheonmin, which
the same practice as with conscripted slaves. Only a
was technically the lowest, but the fact that they had
is the lowest class of the status
wealthy patron, typically a high government official,
constant interactions with high-ranked people let them
system during the Joseon Era
could release a kisaeng from their position if he paid a
embrace a lot of freedom. Many of them were also
hefty price to the government.
wealthy. Their possession of decent wealth allowed
(Now South Korea). They were essentially slaves owned by the government. Only way for them to go up
Many kisaeng displayed great skill in poetry,
them to exercise the power. They were able to purchase
the status system was to become a concubine to high-
numerous sijo composed by kisaeng have survived.
clothes and accessories of great quality and uniqueness
ranked men. Kisaengs’ daughters automatically received
Those often reflect themes of heartache and parting,
without depending on a male figure because most
their mother’s status where sons inherited the father’s.
similar to poems composed by scholars in exile. In
women did not work in that era.
Although their status was considered low, they
addition, kisaeng composed some of the most famous
had to go through extensive training. As a male, you
poems to persuade prominent scholars to spend the
needed a good amount of money even for the lower
night. Indeed, Koreans typically associate the sijo style
class of kisaengs.
with kisaeng women, while women of yangban status
Throughout the Goryeo and Joseon periods, kisaeng held the status of cheonmin, the lowest rank of society. They shared that status with other entertainers, as well
focused on the gasa form. This was a major difference between them. Kisaeng attached to a local government office
as butchers and slaves. Women inherited the kisaeng
went by the name gwan-gi, their status carefully
status, so the children of a kisaeng also had cheonmin
differentiated from that of the common slaves also
status, and the daughters automatically became kisaeng
attached to the office. The government officials entered
as well. Beginning in the Goryeo period, the governing
them separately on the census rolls. Although regarded
offices in each district kept a registry of kisaeng to
of significantly higher status than slaves, kisaeng and
Kisaeng’s main clients were high-ranked men. Some of them (mainly the lowest class of the kisaengs) resorted to prostitution, but not all.
Kisaeng: the True Identity 3
CLASSES OF KISAENGS FIRST CLASS First class kisaengs, or an yuh-ak, were the most educated and talented in traditional dancing and singing. Their performances marked the highlight of palace celebrations. Their roles were very important in both social and international relations aspects. They are also taught to view that prostitution is shameful.
SECOND CLASS Starting from second class, they are not even considered as true kisaengs. Women in second class involved themselves in subtle prostitution. They were also entertainers of certain banquets and celebrations, but not the major ones hosted by the royal palace. They usually become concubines of wealthy men.
THIRD CLASS They openly took part in prostitution. They weren’t able to do refined and high level dances like the first class kisaengs. They simply sang a few traditional songs. The third class kisaengs lived completely different lives from the first class kisaengs. Third class ones were rather called chang-gi.
4 Kisaeng: the True Identity
FA S H I O N Kisaengs were also leaders in fashion. Because their main clients were rich and high-ranked men, many kisaengs were financially stable. Having good relationships with these clients also led to some freedom from governmental regulations. This led to their amazing fashion style. They were the only group of women who were allowed to wear lavish colors, fabric, and accessories. Back in the days, women were not allowed to wear such lavish colors. The idea of women being quiet and submissive was very important and emphasized. Although most high-class women looked down upon kisaengs due to their status, there was also a bit of envy as well. The fact that kisaengs were the only women allowed to enjoy the trends and taste in fashion and beauty made a lot of other women jealous. Kisaengs were also the only women to ride on horsebacks by themselves. Depending on what kind of kisaeng they were, the rights and activities they were allowed to do varied as well. Such freedom, once again, was very charming to both men and women during the time period.
Love, Lies (2016) This is a scene from a movie that depicts two female leads as kisaengs. Because the film takes place in late Joseon and there was also a touch of contemporary taste on their fashion. During this time, Korea was more open to western culture and kisaengs picked up the trend very fast.
Kisaeng: the True Identity 5
From their choice of colors and the way they tied the skirts above the waist, it is easy to tell that they are kisaengs. These outfits are more of a daily fashion.
Resounding Geomungo Praiseworthy Lotus by Shin Yun-bok
yi g n a h c e a m
Yi Maechang Yi Mae-chang (1573-1610), born Yi Hyanggeum, was a famed kisaeng of the Buan area during the Joseon Dynasty. She was noted for her talent in playing the geomungo (a zither-like instrument related to the Chinese Gunqin and composing sijo and other poetry. As Hwang Jin-i was known as one of the three wonders of Songdo, Mae-chang was known as one of the three wonders of Byeoksan. It is recorded that she interacted with famous literary figures of her time such as Yu Huigyeong and Heo Gyun. This shows that kisaengs were able to exchange intellectual conversations with people of high ranks. Back in the Joseon Era, women weren’t allowed to do many things, especially those in the lower class. Probably her most famous sijo is “Crane in the Cage” in which her very strong sense of identity can be seen as she compares herself to a crane that although is trapped and sick, came from paradise.
6 Kisaeng: the True Identity
Crescent-shaped eyebrows were key elements to their make up. Kisaengs of late Joseon had their hair organized
MAKE-UP Kisaengs used powder for their base make-up. It was made from crushing seeds of a flower. Then they applied the powder with a tool (today’s cushion) made of silk from silkworms. They also mixed red clay powder and the yellow stamen of lilies to match their skin tones. To bring a out a peachy look, safflower was also mixed a with the powder. Kisaengs threaded their excess facial hair and did their eyebrows to make a crescent shape, which was thought to represent beauty. Burnt wood mixed with oil was used to make the eyebrows darker. They didn’t have many color options for their lips and cheeks. The main color was red and the vibrancy depended upon their preference and the setting. They made yunji, which was made from ripping petals of safflower and soaking them with water, drying, and repeating the process. After grinding it, they applied yunji to give a lively red or pink pop on their lips and cheeks.
and focused on shaping their eyebrows and giving a red pop on their lips.
Kisaeng: the True Identity 7
This is a modern take on kisaeng make-up. Because matching eye brows with hair color is one of the trends, brown brow color was incorporated.
02 Skills and Talents
10 Skills and Talents
Ka Ya Geum and Guh Moon Go were the main instruments kisaengs were trained to use. Ka Ya Geum, which is made of thinner and more strings, makes a higher pitched sound whereas Guh Moon Go makes a deeper sound. Lower pitched instruments were often used to comfort loneliness.
MUSIC AND SIJO
K
isaengs were talented artists.
During the Joseon dynasty, instruction focused on
content of those trainings varied from
Their main skills included music
music and dance. In the three-tiered system of later
region to region. The state did not
and poetry. With music, they
Joseon, the government established more specialized
directly oversee the detailed affairs of the
were not only adept in singing
training schools for kisaeng of the first tier. The
kisaeng, rather the haengsu kisaeng, those
and dancing, but also playing
course of study lasted three years and covered poetry,
of the highest tier, kept order within each gyobang,
instruments. The main instruments include Ka Ya Guem
dance, music, and art. The government maintained
which might include some tens of kisaeng. When
and Guh Moon Go. These two instruments played
most advanced kisaeng training school in Pyongyang.
problems arose between a kisaeng and a client, or
soprano and base respectively.
That system continued well into the Japanese colonial
when a kisaeng had charges of criminal conduct made
period, during which time the schools training kisaeng
against, the haengsu kisaeng usually took the leading
became known as gwonbeon.
role in resolving the situation.
Women entered the kisaeng class through various paths. Some, the daughters of kisaeng, inherited their mother’s status. Parents unable to support daughters
As slaves of the government, the kisaeng led closely
sold them into gijeok. Most of these families held the
regulated lives overseen by the officer in charge of
designation of cheonmin, but sometimes poor families
kisaeng, known as the hojang. The hojang maintained
of higher status sold their children in that fashion. On
the kisaeng register, ensuring that none of the district’s
occasion, even women from the yangban aristocracy
kisaeng had fled. The hojang required kisaeng to answer
became kisaeng, usually because they had violated the
the requests of patrons, unless they had previously
strict sexual mores of the Joseon period.
notified them. The kisaeng of the district appeared
As skilled workers, the government took an early
for inspection twice a month, as expected, as well as
interest in ensuring correct education for kisaeng.
when a new official arrived in the area. In addition, they
During the Goryeo dynasty, the government established
reported for continuing education, usually focused
gyobang, or training institutes for palace kisaeng.
on music and dance, as obliged. The frequency and
Skills and Talents 11
Oh that I might capture the essence of this deep midwinter night and fold it softly into the waft of a spring-moon quilt, then fondly uncoil it the night my beloved returns. - Hwang Jini Sijo, which refers to poetry, was one of the main talents kisaengs had. They used very trendy forms of expression with traditional Korean. Whereas educated men wrote their sijo based on philosophical approaches, kisaengs’ sijo focused on the nature of human and their emotions.
12 Skills and Talents
DANCE Kisaengs’ beautiful, vibrant outfits were able to
the Great Drum dance (one of several forms of drum
make their dances more graceful. In Korean history,
dances) features a gaudy drum which may be taller than
each type of dance has a deep cultural meaning.
the performer. The drum tempts a monk until finally he
Kisaengs were taught to not only master the dances
succumbs to it and performs a rolling drum “orgy.”
but also to understand the cultural purpose behind
Due to the cultural suppression by Imperial Japan,
them. Colors, types of instruments, accessories, and
arguably considered cultural genocide during Korea’s
outfits all mattered to convey the right message at the
Annexation to Japan, most of the dance academies
right setting. Some of the main dances that kisaengs
died out and some dances were lost as well as some of
Salpuri (Exorcism)
performed were salpuri, geom-mu, and boochae
dance forms were distorted. However, few pioneering
Kisaengs wore white (depend-
choom. Although salpuri is to drive the evil spirit out, it
Korean dancers such as Choi Seung-hee created new
was sometimes altered to simply celebrate an event or a
forms of Korean dances based on the traditional dances
visit of foreign officials in the palace.
and kept many of the traditions alive in secret and
ing on the occasion, they wore bright outfits as well) and hold white fabric while doing this dance. Sal means bad energy or spirit, so this dance was to let go of that negative energy.
Other Korean dances remained and remain to this
abroad, and today Korean traditional dance is enjoying
day under the ambit of farmers and folk dance groups.
a vibrant resurgence. A common form of Korean Dance,
Props used in the dances include the long billowing silk
where the pets of the dancers are included, involves
scarf of pure white used in the Salpuri dance, drums,
the pet (most commonly guinea pigs as they are highly
hats, swords and others. The props may be peripheral
respected in areas of Korea)on two legs being piggy-
or central to the story of the dance. In the Ghost dance,
backed by their owners and leap-frogging over them.
the entertainer has a joyous reunion with a deceased
Citation Needed Numerous universities in Korea
spouse, only to endure the heartbreak of reseparation,
teach Korean traditional dance. shamanic rituals
and there may few or no props. On the other hand,
of Gyeonggi province.
Skills and Talents 13
Geom Mu (Sword Dance) Outfits and the colors varied on the type of dance. Geom Mu is essentially sword dancing. Kisaengs wore military-inspired outfits to show energy and sharpness.
Boo Chae Choom (Fan Dance) Kisaengs, in addition to their beautiful outfits, used a lot of other materials to add character to the dance. Fans were widely used. Other materials include flowers, fabric, instruments, and more.
hwang jini This photo is of an actress who played the role of Hwang Jini in a Korean TV show. Out of many people who played her role, she is known to depict her beauty and talent well.
Hwang Jini was arguably the best known kisaeng due to a plethora of novels, operas, films, and television series. She was born in 1506, and her kisaeng name was Myeongwol, meaning “bright moon�. She was well known for her exceptional beauty, quick wit, extraordinary intellect and her assertive, independent nature. Because of these characteristics, she was definitely one of the most popular kisaengs of the Joseon Era. Her character appeared in many Korean historical shows as well. Besides her beauty, she was also known to be exceptional in dancing and singing. She was one of the top kisaengs of her era, so she often performed for the palace events and celebrations. Only a handful of her sijo and musical arrangements exist to this day. Her poems describe the beauty of nature, the tragedy of her lost loves and responses to famous classic Chinese poems and literature. She died in 1560.
Misunderstood
03
16 Misunderstood
NARROW M E D I A P O R T R AYA L
T
Photo by MJ Kim
hroughout Korean history, a
to this, the role of kisaengs greatly decreased but the
exist; however, it is important to remember their
woman’s self-worth and honor
Korean fixation with sexual abstinence remained.
culture and history. Kisaengs, as women, carried so
were measured by her chastity
Although the kisaengs contradicted traditional Korean
many aspects of the Korean culture. They were always
and adherence to men. Females
expectations concerning females and chastity, their
undermined and underrepresented just because of their
have consistently been
existence is indicative of the emotional and sexual
gender and status. Unprecedented demand for sexual
expected to be obedient, fertile,
oppression that has pervaded throughout Korean
services caused the South Korean prostitution industry
impalpable, and above all, sexually abstinent. The
history, one of the ramifications of which has been a
kisaengs, however, contradicted Korean expectations
thriving contemporary prostitution industry.
for women; for hundreds of years, they served as
The media is also responsible for their deteriorated
“Sell your voices, not your bodies.”
sexually promiscuous performing artists who offered
reputation. A lot of movies and TV series focused on
intelligent and charming company to wealthy and
the sexual attractiveness of kisaengs. There are only a
to expand, and despite the emphasis placed on sexual
influential men. Due to the influx of foreigners in the
few works that truly focus on their abilities and talents.
abstinence and chastity, millions of men frequented
twentieth century, kisaengs, whose colorful
During the Japanese occupation of Korea in the early
red-light districts while thousands of women found
personalities and beauty set them apart for centuries,
1900’s, the kisaengs were no longer supervised by
employment in sexually oriented establishments. Due
were reduced to the same status as common
the government. Instead, different groups of people
to this, the role of kisaengs greatly decreased but the
prostitutes. Unprecedented demand for sexual services
interfered with the business and began to implement
Korean fixation with sexual abstinence remained.
caused the South Korean prostitution industry to
prostitution. This is one of the reasons why kisaengs
Although the kisaengs contradicted traditional Korean
expand, and despite the emphasis placed on sexual
are viewed as sex icons of the Korean history. Because
expectations concerning females and chastity, their
abstinence and chastity, millions of men frequented
of both internal and external elements, the kisaengs
existence is indicative throughout Korean history,
red-light districts while thousands of women found
began to lose their foundation and branched into
one of the ramifications of which has been a thriving
employment in sexually oriented establishments. Due
different paths. In the present day, kisaengs no longer
contemporary prostitution industry.
Misunderstood 17
Giving a contemporary taste to traditional clothing isn’t always disrespecting the This is a movie poster. Although the movie does not portray a kisaeng specifically, the art definitely uses the looks of kisaengs including vibrant garments and red lips.
culture; however, many artists are influenced by the sensual atmosphere of kisaengs and their outfits.
18 Misunderstood
Love in the Moonlight (2016). This was a scene in a very popular Korean TV show. Once again, kisaengs are often portrayed in single rooms with emphasized cleavage, waiting for a man.
Misunderstood 19
The Treacherous (2015). This movie highlights a king that turned a govermental area into a pleasure house. Although it’s based on a true historical event, women are once again sexualized and fantasized with lavish colors and settings instead of staying true to history or accurate storytelling. Still, this movie got a lot of sales.
Korean Geisha Siwoo Kim
Influence on Modern Society
04
22 Inf luence on Modern Society
Many famous fashion shows in Korea started to incorporated modernized hanbok. By using hanbok structures as the major theme and adding modern touch, designers were able to accentuate the beauty of traditional clothing in a contemporary manner.
THE CURRENT B E AU T Y S TA N DA R D
F
air skin, a well-defined nose,
and the bodhisattva Aryavalokitesvara; the “virtuous
peachy cheeks, and cherry-red
women” and “temptresses” of legends; as well as
lips. For thousands of years, Korean women have favored this standard of female beauty with remarkable consistency.
This standard has certainly not been immune to the passage of time, and modern-day advancements such as plastic surgery mean that women can beautify
“ This especially captures the true Korean Beauty.”
themselves beyond the appearance given to them by
Photo by MJ Kim
many of the traditions and dances have been lost forever. Some South Korean business circles escort visiting foreign businesspeople to a kisaeng house, virtually a modern
nature. Nonetheless, scholars and scientists today
modern-day beauties that dominate Hallyu, or the
interpretation or a shadow of the kisaeng house in the past.
reveal that there is an unchanging set of values that
Korean Wave. This journey will be captured
Today the kisaeng’s evolution and impact on Korean society
continue to define the Korean aesthetic. Thus, the
in “Korean Beauty” with the aim of going beyond the
has been receiving renewed attention as Koreans devote
art and stories that were passed down for hundreds
façade and demonstrating the strength and inner
increasing efforts to rediscovering and re-invigorating their
and even thousands of years in the culture display a
beauty of Korean women to not only the young
cultural and historical heritage. That interest focuses almost
common thread when it comes to the ideal concept
Korean generation, but also a global audience that is
entirely on the historical kisaeng of the Joseon period,
of female beauty.
getting to know Korea. This documentary will also
ignoring the traces of the kisaeng which endure today. Now,
Asia Society Korea Center has embarked on a journey
help people from around the world to delve deeper
times have changed and obviously the beauty standards have
to explore that thread of beauty throughout Korea’s
and encounter the unfamiliar treasures of Korean
as well, and many of the traditions and dances have been
history, from painter Shin Yun-bok’s famous Portrait
culture and history for the first time. Few traditional
lost forever. Some South Korean business circles escort
of a Beauty to studying the altar portrait of Buddha
kisaeng houses continue to operate in South Korea, and
visiting foreign businesspeople to a kisaeng house.
Inf luence on Modern Society 23
CONTEMPORARY ART Hyunjung Kim’s Swag or Die series instantly became popular amongst the people in Korea. She is an artist who put a very contemporary twist to Korean art. She created interesting concepts by combining daily activities and the traditional Korean art. The colorful and lavish culture of kisaengs influenced this talented artist to truly bring out best pieces to the public. There are also other artists who explore this theme and make it there own. Hyunjung Kim is only one of the many artists who recieved great recognition who gave a fun, artistic modern alternation to traditional kisaengs and the clothing they wore. Swag or Die: Get Set Ready!
Swag or Die: Naive Lady
by Hyunjung Kim
by Hyunjung Kim
24 Inf luence on Modern Society
TWIST ON HANBOK Many designers began to embrace traditional elements with the combination contemporary garment patterns and accessories. Usually, they go for the unbalanced look where they seem to keep traditional ways but also escaping from it. While maintaining the kisaeng make-up that consists of crescent-shaped eyebrows, the model hear wears trendy colors of Korean make-up. There was a boom of wearing orange and peach colors during the spring and the summer season, so this photo portrays a great balance of traditional and modern beauty. While maintaining the kisaeng make-up that consists of crescent-shaped eyebrows, the model hear wears trendy colors of Korean make-up. There was a boom of wearing orange and peach colors during the spring and the summer season, so this photo portrays a great balance of traditional and modern beauty. Many designers began to embrace traditional elements with the combination contemporary garment patterns and accessories. Usually, they go for the unbalanced look where they seem to keep traditional ways but also escaping from it.
Inf luence on Modern Society 25
Many photographers and models have been recreating hanbok. Although it’s important to preserve the traditional aspect, modernizing it in an artistic, thoughtful way helps the current society to look back at the culture with a new perspective.
Photos by Big Issue Magazine
26 Inf luence on Modern Society
D A I LY H A N B O K What is daily hanbok? There is not much that changed except that daily hanbok has more contemporary patterns and shorter skirt length. Many celebrities started to promote everyday style hanbok and many women were influenced to wear them in a daily basis. Although there are daily hanboks for men, women commonly wear daily hanboks. It is also popular for couples, friends, and families to gather and visit historical reservations all over the country while wearing casual or traditional hanbok. Influenced by such trend, tourists from other countries also enjoy this activity and truly embrace and experience the Korean culture. A daily hanbok uses the full skirt and the cropped jacket as an inspiration, but with lighter, more breathable materials and modern patterns! It is a beautiful way of incorporating colors and designs into your daily wardrobe, and you don’t need to wear it together. Most of these beautiful hanbok stores like to incorporate the use of bold colors. So the daily hanboks will also be in the shades that are “in fashion�. It is also popular for couples, friends, and families to gather and visit historical reservations all over the country while wearing casual or traditional hanbok. Influenced by such trend, tourists from other countries also participate in this activity and truly embrace and experience the Korean culture.
Photos by Marie Claire Magazine
Inf luence on Modern Society 27
The daily hanbok incorporates separating the skirt and the top. Women wear the skirt more commonly because they can match the skirt with any top they want.
28 Inf luence on Modern Society
Daily hanbok literally means hanbok you can wear on a daily basis. Utilizing the traditional texture and the ribbon, designers have made the skirt into pants. Pairing with a floral print blouse, there is a perfect combination of both traditional and modern taste.
Inf luence on Modern Society 29
Daily hanbok can also produce a very elegant, classy look. Depending on the color scheme and the items one match their daily hanbok items with, the atmosphere can be drastically different. Hanbok can be used for such diverse occasions.
Photos by MJ Kim