Lands of Colquhoun

A Guide to the Lands of Clan Colquhoun

Covering the lands around Loch Lomond and along the River Clyde A good local map should enable these sites to be located

Contents Barony of Colquhoun Old Kilpatrick Dunglass Castle Dumbarton Castle Dumbarton Church Dumbarton Quayside Bannachra Castle Glenfruin Monument Strone Farm Traditional Burial Ground Burial Ground Buvklyvie’s Burn Helensburgh Ardencaple Tower Faslane Chapel Gallow Hill Cnoc Elachan The Cuinneag Rossdhu Gates Rossdhu House Rossdhu Castle St Mary’s Chapel Camstraddan Loch Lomond Arms Luss Church Luss hatchments Viking Graves Bishop Robert Colquhoun Colquhoun Grave enclosure Head of the Little Bridge St Michael’s Chapel, Glen Luss Shielings, Glen Na Coiran Edintaggart Glen Douglas Ben Lomond Inchmurrin

T he lands of Colquhoun The name of ‘Colquhoun’ derived from the Barony of Colquhoun, which lay along the hills to the north of Old Kilpatrick in Dumbartonshire. At a time in history when surnames did not exist, people used a forename and were further identified by where they lived or by some characteristic, even by their trade.

In the 12th century ‘Humphrey’ lived at Kilpatrick on the banks of the River Clyde. Sometimes on maps the name was written as Kirkpatrick, both meaning the church of Patrick. In the 13th century Humphrey of Kilpatrick was granted the Barony of Colquhoun, the land extending much farther than those of Kilpatrick. His name was now Humphrey of Colquhoun. In the 14th century Robert de Colquhoun married the daughter and heiress of Godfrey, Laird of Luss. On the death of Godfrey, these lands passed to his daughter and thus to Robert who became known as Robert de Colquhoun and Luss.

During the following centuries, the Colquhoun family acquired possession of land and their influence spread throughout the region. They acquired properties which had formerly belonged to other prominent families. They held at various times land in Stirlingshire, Fife, Ayrshire and Ireland. They did not always retain possession of these lands and properties but the name, in a variety of forms, lingered in these areas. In Ayrshire and Fife, the name was sometimes shortened to Cowan and in Glasgow to Colhoun. The Irish forms became Colhoun, Cohoon, and in North America, Calhoun.

In this booklet we are concentrating on the sites within the original clan lands in the Dumbartonshire district and Loch Lomond.

which the Clan took its name (narrow wooded corner) lay along the River Clyde stretching from near Dumbarton Castle in the west past Old Kilpatrick in the east. This view from across the Clyde shows part of the territory of Colquhoun granted to Unfridus de Kilpatrick in the 13th century. Bowling where Dunglass castle stands can be seen against the backdrop of the Kilpatrick Hills.

Dumbarton Castle, dominating the area, the castle has existed here in various forms since the earliest times. The lower approaches to the present castle are 18th century with the portcullis tower being mediaeval. The steep ascent made it difficult to assault.

There were Colquhoun Lairds who served as Governors of the Castle. The motto ‘Si je Puis’ (If I Can) was gained here after recapturing the castle for the King.

Dunglas Castle, Castle a castle of

Dumbarton Parish Church, erected in 1810

The Barony of Colquhoun from

the Colquhouns stood on the banks of the Clyde at Bowling.

The original was built in the 14th century, but fell into disrepair. In the 16th century, another castle replaced the earlier. This was in a dangerous condition but has now undergone some preservation. The remains of the earlier castle are still visible. Located in the former Esso site at Bowling, a right of access exists, though it is necessary to call at the gatehouse to the site.

Old Kilpatrick The village of the Colquhouns and reputed birthplace of St. Patrick. There is evidence of Roman walls here, which fit in with claims that St Patrick was kidnapped from here by Irish pirates in the 4th century. The church shown was built in 1812 replacing the original 12th century church. In the graveyard most traces of the Colquhouns have gone, though we know many are interred here, one dating from 1699. In the churchyard is the carved effigy of a knight from one of the tombs in the church. It is 14th century and probably one of the early Colquhoun lords. Also in Kilpatrick there is the site of St. Patricks Well.

on the site of the previous church. Originally surrounded by a burial ground, it has now disappeared. There are several gravestones embedded in the wall of a very small burial ground remaining, including those of soldiers who fell from the castle walls. Also marked is the grave of John Arrol, the schoolmaster of Row who was murdered in Dumbarton in the 18th century. The earliest recorded church on this site was in the early 14th century. Until 1761 the Grammar School was in the base of the tower of the old earlier church.

Dumbarton

Quayside,

now a landscaped car park, was the scene of many historic sailings in earlier times. Mary Queen of Scots sailed from here on her way to France and marriage to the Dauphin. It was also here that the Lairds of Luss kept ships, on the King’s orders, in readiness to repel invaders from the isles.

This was the main western seaport before the development of Glasgow and the Clyde.

Bannacra Castle

where Sir Humphrey Colquhoun was killed by MacFarlane and McGregor raiders in 1592. The Castle is believed to have been erected in the early 16th century on the site of an earlier castle. It originally belonged to the Galbarith family. The remains of the staircase and the narrow window, where Sir Humphrey was slain by an assassin’s arrow, can stuill be seen. From the castle, there are beautiful views across Glenfruin, and across Loch Lomond. The castle remains are on private land and not open to the public, though access can be gained .

The Monument in Glenfruin

Traditional

Burial

Mound lying close to the Fruin Water on Auchengaich farm, this mound was for three centuries pointed out as the burial place of the Colquhouns killed in the glen in 1603. In the 1960’s excavations were carried out to prove or disprove the legend.

It was found to be a bronze age burial mound. In all the old texts, this is the spot referred to as the resting place of the Colquhoun dead.

Old Burial Ground This disused burial ground lies

marks the general area where the battle commenced in February 1603 between invading McGregors and their allies on one side and the Colquhouns and others who tried to prevent the plundering and burning of their lands by the raiders. The battle left 140 victims and led to the proscription of the Clan McGregor.

in a field on the farm at Ballevoulin in Glenfruin.

Although most of the stones have fallen over and lie beneath the turf, there are a few still standing, one bearing a rudely carved cross. This is sometimes thought to have been the burial place of the Colquhouns who died in the battle in Glenfruin. However, local tradition claimed the mound at Auchengaich farm as the burial ground. When this was proved not to be the case, it was thought this may be the place.

Other stories claim it is the burial place of illegitimate babies, born at a time of intolerance.

Strone House the farm house

BucklyvieĂŠs Burn Flows south-

standing at the head of the glen which saw much of the fighting in the battle. It was also on the route of the old cattle drovers from the Highlands to the cattle markets in Dumbarton and the lowlands. The interior walls of the building reveal the 16th century origins of the house (Privately owned)

wards into Fruin water near the farm of Ballymenoch. It was at this spot that the laird of Bucklyvie, chief of Clan Buchanan, was killed by men of the Clan McGregor during the retreat from the battle in the glen in 1603. Some believe it may be this burn, others think it may have been the burn now better known locally as Chapel burn due to proximity of a later building.

Helensburgh lying on the Gare Loch, Helensburgh was named after the wife of Sir James Colquhoun, the founder of the town. After purchasing more property in the area, in 177 he decided to lay out a new town, and at the suggestion of a friend named it after his wife, Lady Helen Sutherland. The Colquhoun link with the town is evident from the names of the streets, and from the coat of arms of the town.

It was here that Henry Bell developed the first steam boat, the Comet, in the early 19th Century. Also the birthplace of TV inventor John Logie Baird and Hollywood star Deborah Kerr.

Ardincaple all that remains of the once large castle is the tower. Originally the castle was the property of the McAulays, where a castle stood since the 12th century, but it later came into the hands of the Campbells of Argyll. The tower shown is part of the extensions they made to the castle in the 17th century. The property came into the hands of the Colquhouns of Luss in the 19th century. The remainder of the castle was demolished last century as it was beyond repair. The McAulays of Ardincaple had held the land for many years before they fell on hard times. The tower lies on the northern end of Helensburgh and has open access, though not to the interior.

Faslane Chapel this ruined Chapel was once the property of the McAulays. It is not certain when it was erected but is believed to be quite ancient. It is thought to have been erected by the family of the house of Lennox. It is probable that the chapel has not been in use since the time of the Reformation. In the 19th century, it became part of the Luss Estates, being acquired by Sir James Colquhoun of Luss.

Gallow Hill the traditional execution place of the Colquhouns, stands alongside the main A82 road. The hillock, now covered in trees, in earlier times was bare apart from one or two trees. Just across the burn from the Courthill stood the hanging treet. The present tree has stood there 250 years, replacing an earlier tree on the site. The cottage dates from the early 18th century.

Cnoc Elachan the traditional Gathering Place of the Clan Colquhoun stands in a field close to the main road. This is now heavily covered with trees but in earlier times, Scotland was sparsely covered with trees. Cnoc Elachan, the Hill of the Willows was prominent not because of its size, but because of the trees. The Clan gathered at the Chief’s call, and the hill was also known as ‘Courthill’, as it was here that justice was dispensed to the people. The Laird had right of ‘pit and gallows’. Its close proximity to the place of execution saw swift justice meted out where necessary. A cairn now marks the Gathering hill

The Cuinneag a deep chasm through which flows Finlas water lies just up Glen Finlas. It is 120 feet deep, and this is the spot where tradition tells us that McClintock, fleeing from Glenfruin, pursued by murderous McGregors, leaped the chasm to escape.

His Pursuers did not attempt to follow and McLintock turned and killed John Dhu McGregor, a brother of the chief, with an arrow. The name means ‘Milk Churn’ as the swirling white water where it drops between the walls of the Chasm resembles a churn. The site, hidden from view by the road bridge, can be seen from beside the bridge but care is required if attempting a visit.

Rossdhu Gates topped by the arms of the Chief of Colquhoun. Although The gates were never used as the entrance to Rossdhu, the ornate gates with a small lodge at either end make an ideal approach to the estate and it is a favourite spot for photographers. It is accessible at all times.

Rossdhu House was built in the 1770’s for Sir James Colquhoun, originally a Georgian style house, the portico and wings on the sides were added by grandson Sir James Colquhoun in the 1830’s. The building is now leased to the Loch Lomond Golf Club and not open to the public though sometimes access can be gained to the grounds.

Rossdhu Castle The old castle was in use from the 14th century until the new house was built in the 1770’. It served as a fortress then a family home. Unfortunately the 18th century practice of using old stone from disused buildings resulted in the partial demolition of the castle. Only the south wall still stands, though we can see the doors to the castle and on the interior wall, the old fireplaces This castle was visited by Mary Queen of Scots who stayed overnight before returning to Dumbarton. The Marquis of Montrose, ‘Bonnie Dundee’ stayed here with his sister Lady Colquhoun. During the Civil War it was alternately occupied by the Royalist and Parliamentary forces.

St. MaryÊs Chapel

is the burial place of the Chiefs of Colquhoun, and stands close to the ruins of the old Castle of Rossdhu. Some date it from the 12th century but others argue it was constructed in the mid 15th century. It was believed to be the place of worship of the Barons of Luss.

There had been a small room on the first floor probably for the resident priest to sleep. The chapel fell into disrepair and was restored by Sir Ivar Colquhoun and he is buried there. As it is within the grounds of Loch Lomond Golf Club, access is limited

Camstraddan The original home of the Colquhouns of Camstraddan, a branch of the family descended from the second son of the ‘Fair Maid of Luss’. This branch of the family supported their kin through all their troubles. The heirs of Camstraddan produced a line of merchants who had business in the west Indies which gradually lost their fortunes. From this family descended the cadet families of Killermont, Garscadden, and Kenmure. The Laird of Luss purchased the estates from the Camstraddan family in 1826 and the property became part of the Luss estate.

The house was built about 1739 and is now the home of the Chief.

St McKessogÊs Church, Luss was built in 1875 by Sir James Colquhoun in memory of his father who drowned in the Loch along with several men in 1873. This replaced an earlier church built in 1771. There has been church on this site since the 6th century. The church has magnificent hammer beam roof, and the stained glass windows illustrate the Colquhoun connection.

Hatchments on display in the Lairds loft in the parish church are one of the finest collections of ‘hatchments’ in Scotland.

These are funeral boards displaying the arms of the deceased chief or his wife. They were hung outside the home of the deceased for a period of mourning. It is possible to learn from the painted background of the crested board, which of the couple have died, and their status at the time.

These have been beautifully restored and are worth a visit.

Head of the Little Bridge about two miles up Glen Luss stand the stone bridge across Luss Water. The picturesque was built in the 18th century and set in the wall is a carved Ram’s Head. Some claim it was to commemorate the introduction of sheep into the glen, though others believe the carved head was from part of the old chapel in the Glen. Legend has it this was the route taken by the Colquhouns on their way to Glenfruin in 1603, and this bridge replaced an older bridge on the site. The rallying tune of the Colquhouns played by the Clan on the pipes was ‘The Head of the Little Bridge’.

Viking Graves, Luss in the church-

St Michaels Chapel the remains of an

yard are the graves of Vikings, part of an invading group who crossed into Loch Lomond at Arrochar, then sailed down the loch to carry out raids in the Lennox. The 13th century gravestones mark the resting place of some of those who did not survive the expedition.

old chapel still remain here. The chapel dedicated to St Michael fell out of use at the time of the Reformation. It fell into ruin, and the old farmers began using the stones to construct barms and walls.

Coins found among the ruins date from the time of Kings James IV circa 1488.

Sir James Colquhoun stopped the sue of the stone and raised a commemoration stone with Inscriptions in Gaelic and English marking the site.

Bishop Robert Colquhoun this effigy, inside the church, was for many years thought o be that of St. Kessog. It has since been identified as that of Robert Colquhoun who lived during the 15th century. He was minister of Luss in 1470 and went on to become Bishop of Argyll and the Isles. It was a position he held for twenty years, he died about 1499. the effigy was uncovered about 1750 when the military road along Loch Lomond was being constructed. A cairn known as the Cairn of St Kessog stood by the side of the road at Bandy about one and a half miles south of Luss. The statue was found when the cairn was opened was opened, which led people it was an effigy of the Saint.

Edintaggart the farm stands on the site of the house of the priest who officiated at the St Michaels chapel in the glen . This farm was subjected to raids by the McGregors in December1602. The road through the glen ends at the farm. Further up the glen from the farm is Glen Mackurn a corruption of the Gaelic name Glen na Coiran. These glens now almost empty at one time supported many families. Most of these old farms were ‘improved’ in the mid 19th century.

Glen Douglas, originally called Glen Uglas, after the river Uglas which flows through the glen into Loch Lomond. The glen divided the parishes of Luss and Arrochar.

Many families of McAuslanes lived in this glen as tenants of the laird of Luss. According to tradition, the McAuslanes were descended from the Clan Buchanan, but some associate them with Colquhoun septs. They did inter-marry with Colquhoun family and were in the movement to Ireland.

Ben

Lomond, standing proudly above Loch Lomond, this mountain creates a picturesque backdrop to the loch. Situated on the east bank of the loch, it rises to 3192 feet. It is the most southerly of the ‘Munros’.

On a clear day, the Irish coast and the Isle of Man can be seen from the summit. The walk to the top of the mountain is about six miles, but well worth the effort. Here in the early 19th century, the laird of Luss and the Laird of McGregor symbolically made friends.

Inchmurrin This island situated at the southern end of the Loch, was once the stronghold of the earls of Lennox. The remains of the old castle can still be seen on the island. The island is named after St. Mirren who may have lived or visited here. Among other visitors to the island were Robert the Bruce, and King James VI who frequently hunted here. It was on this island in the 15th century that Sir John Colquhoun was murdered by marauders from the Isles, after being lured there with promises of his personal safety, for a meeting.

Two of the murderers were said to be Lachlan Maclean and Murdo Gibson

Colquhoun family enclosure.

Luss churchyard. Grave of Sir Iain Colquhoun, who died 1948, and wanted to be buried not in the Chapel at Luss, but in his favourite spot overlooking Loch Lomond., also his younger son Captain Donald Colquhoun, brother of Sir Ivar; and his grandson Torquil Colquhoun, brother of the present chief Sir Malcolm

Loch Lomond Hotel, Luss formerly the Colquhoun Arms, the hotel has stood on this site for several centuries. This was the hotel where the Poets William Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy, with Samuel Taylor Coleridge stayed on their visit to Scotland in 1803. She wrote they from her room she could look over the vil-

lage, a cluster of thatched houses among the trees with a large chapel in the midst of them. Recently refurbished, it still retains its historic connections.

Old Shielings, Glen McKurn (Glen Na Coiran).

The old shepherds would take their flocks up into the glens and spend the summer looking after the sheep.

Small buildings were erected so there was some shelter from the weather. They were not all year round dwellings, but give a picturesque view of the Glens. There are no made up roads through this glen, only tracks.