Bracelets, Necklaces, and Earrings
Issue No. 10 / July 2013
Bracelets, Necklaces, and Earrings Editorial Director Editor In Chief Technical Editors Proofreader Editor, Beadingdaily.com Editorial Intern Group Publisher Advertising Media Sales Director Senior Advertising Manager Advertising Managers Classified Advertising Ad Traffickers Ad Coordinator Circulation Manager Art Director Associate Art Director Production Director Production Production Editor Photography
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101 Bracelets, Necklaces, and Earrings | 2013
Misty A. Marquis Melanie Stafford Jamie Hogsett, Denise Peck Nancy Arndt Kristal Wick Lisa Monsen, Chelsea Carr Art and Jewelry Daivd Pyle Jim McIntosh Marylin C. Koponen Dana Groves Monica Turner Mellissa Marie Brown, Tina Rolf Jennifer Samsell Barbara Naslund James B. Bogner III Ashley Millhouse Trish Faubion Chad Blichfeldt, Lee Ann Short Nancy Arndt Misty Marquis
Contents Tools for the Trade.......6 Techniques..................12
Bracelets 101
Seaweed and Secret Beads by Jaime Hogsett............................34 Flower Bouquet by Derya Aksoy................................36
Elegant Pooch
Earrings 101
Charm
Island Discotheque by Jamie Hogsett............................38
Sweet Honey
Pleasure Drops by Leslie Rogalski...........................40
by Marlene Blessing...................18 by Danielle Fox..........................20 by Melinda Barta........................22
Mademoiselle Pearl by Denise peck........................... 24 Sweet Swallow by Gaea Cannaday.......................26
Necklaces 101
Black Lily
by Jess Itallia Lincoln......................42
Midnight Deco Drops by Jane Dickerson...........................44
Project Contributors.......46 Resources..........................48
Love Bird
by Jean Campbell........................28
Elisha’s Corals by Maria Dao............................. 30 Bliss
by Rebecca Campbell...................32
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for
the trade by Alison Sly
Beads are the oldest and most widespread art form, having been used in virtually every culture since the ancient times. Originally beads were worn to give an indication of social status or religious beliefs and were widely used as a currency, talisman or a healing token. These early beads, made from wood and various plants or insect resins, are still popular today.
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Millimeter Bead Size Chart 18
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Beginning bead work It is quite possible to make lots of beautiful beaded items without buying any specialist tools. But, to begin, basic equipment from your workbox will be fine and then as you progress you can invest in one or two particular tools as required. Bead work tools are readily available from craft and bead shops or from one of the many on-line suppliers, some of which are listed on page 48. With such a variety of beads it can be overwhelming deciding what to buy but it is easy to
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narrow down your choice to make the task less daunting. As different beading techniques often use specific types of beads, once you decide what you are going to bead then the task becomes much easier. Seed beads are ideal for techniques such as bead loom weaving, off-loom weaving or ropes and cords, whereas larger beads are more suitable for threading and stringing, and wirework. Learning a little about the different types of beads, how they are measured and different
Bead Pots and Containers It is important to store beads carefully so that they are easy to access, don’t spill out and can be returned to the container quickly once the work is done.
As you design your pieces, this chart will help you measure the size of the beads you will be working with.
Beads are sold in a variety of containers, from plastic bags to tubes and boxes. In general, these are adequate for point of sale but once opened it is often better to transfer the beads to stronger containers. Beads sold in tubes should be fine so long as the lid is a good fit. Once the beads are finished, hold on to empty tubes to store other beads. You can buy a variety of containers with secure screw tops that ideal for seed beads. Lager beads can be stored in small polythene boxes. Look for inexpensive storage boxes sold at bead and craft fairs. Boxes with a lid the same size are particularly useful as you can tip half the beads into the lid to make if easier to handpick a few.
Tip: Remember to label beads carefully when transferring to a new container, as well as where you bought them, is essential information.
finishes will help you make an informed choice next time you visit the bead shop. Although it is always a pleasure actually handpicking your beads, internet shopping is becoming increasingly popular and you will be able to find any bead you need online. The internet makes it easy to buy beads from around the world and these will be delivered to your door in a few days. Although postage is added, it is often still more economical.
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The Essential Tools
Scissors Excellent for cutting string (not wire). Wire Cutters Almost known as flush cutters, this tool has a flat side so that you can cut wire with a straight end. Use a small pair with fine tips to get in close when making jewelry. (Top and bottom images.)
Crimping Pliers If you plan to use crimps regularly for spacing beads and fastening threads, crimping pliers will produce a more professional finish than flatnose pliers. The pliers come in three sizes of crimps.
Flat-Nose Pliers Jewelry pliers, both round and flat-nose, are used to attach findings and fastenings. Some flatnose pliers, also called snipe-or chain- nose pliers, taper towards the tip and others have a blunt end (blunt nose). Flat-nose pliers have flat jaws with a slightly rough surface to grip wire or findings.
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Round-Nose Pliers These pliers have tubular tapered jaws and are used for coiling, bending wire and making jump rings. Work near the tip of the jaws for tiny loops and further towards the base for larger rings.
Measuring Tools When beginning any project or design, it is always important to measure out the piece. Use a combination of the bead size chart on page 8 and a ruler to measure the length of the necklace or bracelet you are wanting to make.
Additional Tools Here are an assortment of the essential tools that will be used throughout the magazine for you to create your designs.
Tip: Good lighting is essential for most bead work, especially if you are working with small beads. Even if you do not need to wear spectacles poor light makes it difficult to see the small holes in the beads, making it harder to pass the needles under threads when off-loom weaving and working on a loom.
Tweezers Fine pointed tweezers are useful if you need to untie knots and also for picking up individual small beads from the bead mat or a dish of beads. Needles There are a wide variety of different types of bead work and each form requires a different type of needle. But this is a beginners manual so any small needle will work for any of the project designs.
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arl Pe Knotting Techniques:
by Lyn Kehoe
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Stringing Pearls When you string pearls on a silk cord is an age-old process. With valuable pearls, the choice of “to knot, or not to knot“ between the pearls
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could mean the difference between losing just a few or losing or damaging all of them if the strand were to break. Pearls should be restrung every one or two years, depending on the amount of wear and the exposure to hair spray, perfume, body oils, lotions, moisture, and perspiration they receive. These elements can wear and soil the silk and cause a potential break point for the strand. The real challenge in pearl stringing is being patient with yourself as you learn and practice stringing and tying techniques. All that’s required is practice for professionals results. With practice, the process will become easier and more satisfying! Silk is a natural fiber. Because it absorbs anything that comes into contact with it, keep your hands clean and dry as you string. Clean and dry them often during your stringing to keep the silk as pristine as possible while you work. This results in a cleaner, more professional finished product for your customers or yourself. Cleanliness at your work space is a priority. Put things away after you use them; keep your work surface as free and clear of unneeded items as possible. Your strand can easily get tangled in extra materials or snagged on a sharp tool. If you’re restringing a strand of pearls, keep the pearls in the same order as they were originally strung and restring in the same order. Be useful for very close work and is indispensable when working tubular crochet or brick stitch with tiny seed beads. Typically, the biggest or best-quality pearls have been positioned in the middle (the front) of the
necklace, and lesser-quality pearls are relegated silk for white, off-white, peach, pink or light to the back, nearer the clasp. Changing this gray tinted pearls. Choose black or gray silk for order could adversely affect the beauty of the black pearls. You may want to consider colored finished piece. This is also true in restringing silks for stringing gem beads for a striking and graduated strands or necklaces where a small wondrously beautiful presentation. variance of pearl sizes is used. Bead-reamer tool (hand-operated for If you’re restringing a strand of pearls, reaming a few pearls; motorized for extra fast keep the pearls in the same order as they were work or when you have a lot of pearls to drill). originally strung and restring in the same order. French wire or bullion (sized large enough Typically, the biggest or best-quality pearls have to exceed silk cord diameter; color to match been positioned in the middle (the front) of the clasp metal). Pearl clasp or other safety clasp. necklace, and lesser-quality pearls are relegated Awl, tweezers, or knotting tool. Jeweler’s crystal to the back, nearer the cement Jeweler’s cement will not make clasp. Changing this the cord brittle; it also soaks into the If the strand seems a little bit tight after order could adversely cord. Do not use cyanoacrylate to glue stringing, take note affect the beauty of the beginning and ending knots. and don’t pull quite as the finished piece. Hand wipes (baby wipes), hard when knotting the This is also true in antibacterial hand cleanser, or access next strand. restringing graduated to soap and water. Beading board, strands or necklaces rubberized mat surface, or lightwhere a small variance of pearl sizes is used. If colored towel. Squizzers or cutters. Optivisor or the strand seems a tight after restringing, take other magnifying glasses. Good light source. note and don’t pull quite so hard when knotting the next strand. The silk cord will ease out a bit with the weight of the pearls as it’s worn. Avoid stretching the strand when it’s complete.
What You Need Pearls or pearl beads: the number depends on the length of strands desired and size of pearls; typically temporary strands are about 16” long, and once strung and knotted, the strand with the clasp will measure about 18”.6’ silk cord on card needle attached; cord size depends on pearl size and pearl hole size. Choose white
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the
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Technique:
Open the carded silk to its full length. Because silk is made of long fibers it’s extremely strong. Be careful not to let it cut into your fingers.
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Tie one basic overhand knot in the end. This will cut off later; it simply keeps the first pearls from sliding off the silk.
Choosing the proper cord size is important. If you use a silk cord that’s thin for the pearls you’re stringing, the pearls will move around on the cord. In addition knots tied into a small cord will be too small and the pearls will slip over them, defeating your purpose for knotting the strand.
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String the French wire, try getting the piece onto your strand by picking it up with the needle. Help ease the French wire over the meet-point of the cord and needle; this is where the french wire commonly comes uncoiled.
Conversely, if the cord size you choose is too thick, it can make the stringing project a very frustrating one, and continual tugging and untwisting of the silk can abrade it, compromising the overall look and security of the strand.
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Add the non-hook half of the clasp. Never attach the fishhook half of the clasp to the beginning of your strand.
Tie and overhand knot next to the pearl. Pull down and string through the second pearl. Then tie another overhand knot. Pull down and string through the third pearl and continue.
Carefully snip the excess cord close on that end and on the other end. Lightly touch a bead of Jeweler’s cement on each of the first and last three knots.
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