2021: Splash — A Bay Area News Group Premium Edition by MediaNews Group Targeted Products

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A BAY AREA NEWS GROUP PREMIUM EDITION 2021

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AQUATIC FUN AROUND THE BAY AREA

CREDITS SECTION EDITOR

Jackie Burrell

Napa by gondola

DESIGN

Jack Browning Chris Gotsill PHOTO EDITING

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Mark DuFrene Laura Oda COPY EDITING

Sue Gilmore

Secret beaches, hidden coves

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A BAY AREA NEWS GROUP PREMIUM EDITION 2021

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TREASURE IN THE M I D D L E O F T H E BAY

COVER ILLUSTRATION

Jui Ishida

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S U N S E T SA I L S PAGE 28

7 SPLASHY LAKES PAGE 34

Waterside table for two PAGE 20

R E DWO O D C I T Y ’ S C O R KS C R E W S LO U G H PAGE 56

Splash hits in McCovey Cove PAGE 62

Opposite page: Waves make a splash in one of the rock openings at Pfeiffer Beach in Big Sur. DAI SUGANO/STAFF ARCHIVES

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Head for the shores Beautiful Bay Area beaches abound in places you may not have found — yet

BY M A R T H A R O S S A N D J E S S I CA YA D E G A R A N

he word “beach” fills our imaginations with visions of bronzed bodies splashing in the surf, kids building sand castles or romantic walks at sunset. Northern California’s fog-shrouded beaches recall other experiences, the awe of crashing waves and a Pacific horizon that stretches to eternity. Here in the San Francisco Bay Area, we have both the ocean and bay to provide an array of beaches that’s perfect for all the many ways people use them: sunbathing, running, surfing, dog walking or simply nature gazing. Everyone knows about Ocean Beach and Stinson, but here are nine others that may be new to you — three on the bay and six on the coast. But first, a quick caveat: Take care when visiting Pacific Coast beaches, where heavy surf can sometimes create hazardous conditions, such as deadly sneaker waves. Check for surf conditions from the National Weather Service Bay Area website at www. weather.gov/mtr or on Twitter @NWSBayArea. Beachgoers visit Gray Whale Cove State Beach in Half Moon Bay in May. NHAT V. MEYER/STAFF

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Above: Visitors and their pups frolic along the Albany Beach section of McLaughlin Eastshore State Park in May. ARIC CRABB/STAFF

Right: A surfer heads home after riding waves at Rodeo Beach in Marin Headlands in March. JOSE CARLOS FAJARDO/STAFF

Albany Bulb and Buchanan Dog Beach A L BA N Y

This small beach, also known as Albany Beach, tucked at the end of Buchanan Street is a sandy refuge for canine lovers — heck, call it Doggie Disneyland. Backed by low dunes and great views of San Francisco, it’s popular with families, their kiddos and pups, who run off-leash with abandon and splash in the water (and may kick a little sand your way). But there’s plenty to do and see, even if you’re not a dog person. Shorebirds dot the landscape, and under calm bay conditions, you might spot a kayaker or two gliding by. When the winds are up, the beach becomes a popular spot for kiteboarders, who zigzag down the shoreline. For a nice walk, head up this recently completed stretch of the San Francisco Bay Trail to the Albany Bulb, the bulbous — of course — tip of the peninsula, which is filled with trails, graffiti-marked concrete slabs and urban art. Details: Open from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. at 24 Buchanan St. in Albany. Parking, limited to two hours, is free on Buchanan Street. An ADA restroom is located at the entrance to the beach, at the west end of the parking lot. Grab a bite: Nearby Solano Avenue is full of worthy options. Among them, the quesabirria taco quintet on handmade corn tortillas ($24) served at 5 Tacos & Beers, which is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily for takeout, indoor and patio dining at 1175 Solano Ave; www.5tacos.com.

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Gray Whale Cove D E V I L’ S S L I D E

If you’re looking for a beach with a sense of drama and romance, head to Gray Whale Cove. Located along the Devil’s Slide area of San Mateo County’s coast and reached by a steep set of stairs from Highway 1, the beach lies in a sheltered cove surrounded by cliffs that drop precipitously into the Pacific Ocean. On a foggy day, it feels like the perfect setting for some heroic brooding over your next epic poem or mystery novel. Any sort of weather brings out couples, posing for romantic selfies or exchanging vows on the cliffs at sunset. And the beach gets its name because it’s a favorite place for whale spotting each spring, as

the great creatures migrate northward. Details: Gray Whale State Beach is open from 8 a.m. to sunset. There’s a large parking area, with portable restrooms, along the east side of Highway 1, nine miles north of Half Moon Bay and four miles south of Pacifica. From the parking lot, take care in crossing the highway to get to the picnic area on the cliff above Gray Whale beach. Grab a bite: Head to Half Moon Bay for a bite at Dad’s Luncheonette, an unfussy but creative, American-themed eatery in a century-old train caboose. Former Michelin-starred chef de cuisine Scott Clark serves up burgers with “Dad’s special sauce” on grilled white bread ($12), and Hen of the Woods mushroom sandwiches with melty cheese ($12). Open from 11 a.m. Thursday through Sunday at 225 Highway 1 in Half Moon Bay; www. dadsluncheonette.com.

Shark Fin Cove near Davenport is a hidden treasure for sunbathers. Just beware the dramatic but dangerous currents, conditions not recommended for anyone but the most hard-core ocean swimmer. ARIC CRABB/STAFF

pedestrian bridge that crosses the lagoon and ends in the sand. The beach also is a good start-and-end point for hikes that explore the former Fort Cronkhite military post and coastal cliffs stretching to Point Bonita in the south or Tennessee Valley to the north. Details: The beach is open 24/7, with parking along Mitchell Road and in a lot at Rodeo Beach. There are restrooms and showers, with accessible features, at the parking lot.

Rodeo Beach MARIN HEADLANDS

This windswept beach within the Golden Gate National Recreation Area is bounded by a lagoon and covered with distinctive red and green pebbles. It’s a popular spot for those in the know, but relatively uncrowded, despite Rodeo Beach being just three miles northwest of the Golden Gate Bridge. Surfers come here. So do people flying kites and families celebrating birthdays. And if you’re looking for accessibility, this is a win: The National Park Service rents out special beach wheelchairs, and the beach is accessible by a wide

Grab a bite: Nearby Sausalito, with its epic views of San Francisco, the Golden Gate Bridge and Belvedere across Richardson Bay, has always been a popular draw for visitors. But get away from its heavily touristed downtown and head to Fish, a casual seafood spot overlooking the harbor. Try the Dungeness crab roll ($36), fish tacos ($18) or creamy Boston clam chowder ($6). Open from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. daily at 350 Harbor Drive in Sausalito: www.331fish.com.

Shark Fin — or Sharktooth — Cove SA N TA C R U Z C O U N T Y

Even before you descend the steep trail to the sand, you’ll see why this beach, just south of Davenport, bears its distinctive name. A massive rock stands

guard over the small cove, rising out of the roiling, crashing waves like a supersized version of the antagonist from “Jaws.” The tiny beach is one of the undeveloped “pocket” beaches that are part of the Coast Dairies property, which has been donated to the state park system. Nestled into cliffs and rock formations, the beach feels secluded, even if other people are picnicking there. There’s an old mining tunnel at the top of the beach and a more picturesque sea cave on the southeast side, which people can enter at low tide. That said, absolutely watch out for the tides if you go into the cave or near the water. The shark rock and other sea stacks create dramatic but dangerous currents, conditions not recommended for anyone but the most hard-core ocean swimmer. Details: Open from 8 a.m. to sunset, Shark Fin Cove is about 11 miles north of Santa Cruz and a mile south of Davenport. There is no sign for the beach, just a parking turnout along Highway 1. If you’re driving south from Davenport and reach Boony Doon Road, you’ve gone too far. Wear shoes with good tread to get down to the beach. The beach offers no facilities. Grab a bite: Davenport offers several options. Grab beachy takeout — fish and chips, crab cakes, artichoke omelets, apple turnovers and more — at Whale City Bakery and Bar and Grill, which is open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday through Monday at 490 Highway One; www.whalecitybakery.com.

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Crane Cove Park SA N F R A N C I S C O

Spanning more than seven acres, this new park along San Francisco’s central waterfront is a window into one of the city’s last remaining shipbuilding slipways. Crane Cove links the Mission Bay and Dogpatch neighborhoods, transforming a once-industrial shoreline into a picturesque vista with a two-acre lawn for picnicking and, yes, a sandy beach for sunbathing and splashing. Swimming is not allowed, but you can wade up to the red buoys. Named after Nick and Nora, the two historic, restored cranes that identify the skyline here, Crane Cove is a perfect jumping-off point for water activities, from paddle boarding to kayaking, playing with the dog — there’s a dog park adjacent to Crane Cove — and just kicking it on the lush, grassy lawn with the kiddos. Once fully complete, the park will feature two children’s playgrounds, an aquatic center with restrooms for boaters and a small cafe. Details: Open from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. at 669 Illinois St., San Francisco. Park along Illinois Street and be mindful of traffic on game days; https://sfport.com/cranecovepark. Grab a bite: Crane Cove’s proximity to Chase Center — it’s less than half a mile away — means food options abound, whether you’re craving crispy gyoza at Dumpling Time (191 Warriors Way, https://dumplingtime.com) or kofta wraps at SF Kebab (550 16th St., http://sfkebab.com).

Beachgoers enjoy San Francisco’s new east-facing beach, Crane Cove Park, on a sunny day in May.

KARL MONDON/STAFF

Middle Harbor Shoreline Park OA K L A N D

West of downtown Oakland on the Port of Oakland entrance channel, this 38-acre, off-the-beaten track park is a testament to the city’s shoreline restoration efforts and a memorial to its naval history. The park is the former site of the Oakland Naval Supply Depot, which played an important role in the World War II effort. Civilian and military workers processed and shipped a wide variety of cargo, from food to fuel, from here. Today, it’s an urban escape for play, picnics and unobstructed views of San Francisco and the Bay Bridge. There’s no swimming or wading allowed, but that history is enough to keep you occupied as you explore the two miles of pathways encircling Middle Harbor Basin and take in the port activity, with containers, cranes and massive ships slowly coming in and out. Take a closer peek, using the free viewing binoculars at Point Arnold and in the observation tower. Details: Open from 8 a.m. to dusk daily at 2777 Middle Harbor Road in Oakland, with wheelchair-accessible parking areas and restrooms in the park; www.portofoakland.com/middle-harbor. Grab a bite: Pick up some of the best plant-based eats in the Bay Area by stopping at Souley Vegan, a Louisiana-inspired eatery located about three miles from the park. The Jazzn’ Jambalaya ($14), made with seitan and Creole spices, is a tasty choice that travels well. Open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday at 301 Broadway; https://souleyvegan.com.

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Oakland’s 38-acre Middle Harbor Shoreline Park and beach sit on the site of the former Oakland Naval Supply Depot.

ARIC CRABB/STAFF

A sunny spring day last month brought Spencer Bennett, of Sausalito, out to play with his dog, Blue, at the Point Reyes National Seashore’s Kehoe Beach in Inverness.

Año Nuevo State Park beaches SA N M AT E O C O U N T Y

Visitors mainly head to this state park and preserve to view the northern elephant seals that mate and raise their pups in this sanctuary. But that means the crowds usually stay away from the park’s stunning, pristine beaches, which are set against the backdrop of the coastal range and acres of forests, prairie and towering dunes. Consider this a twofer: Cove Beach, at the south end of the park, stretches a mile and features a world-class surf break that attracts surfers, families, beachcombers and the occasional napping elephant seal. On the north end of the park, the half-mile-long Franklin Point trail weaves over sand dunes to an isolated golden-sand beach you could almost roll down, as well as a rocky point that’s the site of a famous 1865 shipwreck. Details: The park is open from 8:30 a.m. to sunset. Cove Beach

can be reached by the ADA-compliant Año Nuevo Point Trail, which starts at the park’s parking lot and Marine Education Center and runs along the bluffs to the natural preserve. A short spur at the half-mile mark drops down to the beach. Restrooms are available at the parking lot. The Franklin Point trailhead is about four miles north of the entrance to the state park, with parking along Highway 1. There are no restrooms here. Grab a bite: The Highway 1 Brewery, directly across Highway 1 from Gazos State Beach (which is also part of Año Nuevo State Beach), serves roadside brewpub fare and its own craft beer. Enjoy one of the towering burgers ($14 to $16) or pulled pork sandwiches ($14) with a Highway 1PA or dark oatmeal stout in the beer garden, protected from the ocean winds. The brewpub is open from noon to 5 p.m. Friday through Sunday at 5720 Highway 1 in Pescadero; www.highway1brewing.com.

Kehoe Beach POINT REYES

With its 100 square miles of coastal wilderness, Point Reyes National Seashore boasts several stun-

JANE TYSKA/STAFF

ning beaches along its shores. Some of them — Limantour, Drakes Bay and the 10-mile long Point Reyes, close to the park’s center — are very popular. For a more secluded experience, head towards the park’s north end. On the winding road to Tomales Point, you’ll find the trailhead to Kehoe Beach. A halfmile walk along a marsh and over sand dunes brings you to the beach, which offers a wide strand for walking and picnics, giant sand dunes for exploring and a view of dramatic limestone and granite cliffs dropping down into the Pacific Ocean. Details: Dogs on leash are allowed on Kehoe Beach to the north side of the trail. Both parking and restrooms are located at the trailhead. Find trail maps and details at www.nps.gov/pore/. Grab a bite: Inverness’ neighborhood oyster bar, Saltwater, serves wine flights and small plates Wednesday through Friday and takeout and patio fare on Fridays and weekends, all featuring locally sourced shellfish and produce. Enjoy a dozen Tomales Bay oysters ($23 to $32), oyster chowder ($15) or a halibut Fish’wich ($17) on the patio. 12781 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Inverness; www. saltwateroysterdepot.com.

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Dip toes in the tide pools Four to explore in the Bay Area B Y JAC K I E B U R R E L L

ow tide reveals an entire world of intertidal-zone life, sea stars, undulating anemones and tiny, colorful nudibranchs living in the rocky pools near shore. So check the tide charts, grab shoes that can get wet or grubby and head for one of the Bay Area’s stellar tide pool spots. Just remember that tide pool terrain is notoriously slippery. Watch your footing and never turn your back on the waves. JA M E S V. F I T ZG E R A L D MARINE PRESERVE, M O S S B E AC H

Sea stars, anemones, limpets and sea urchins thrive in the rocky tide pools of this incredible marine preserve. This Moss Beach destination reopened to visitors last month, with volunteer naturalists on hand and downloadable guides available from the Friends of Fitzgerald Reserve website to help you identify the wonders you’re seeing. Details: Open daily at 8 a.m. at 200 Nevada Ave. in Moss Beach; http:// fitzgeraldreserve.org. Check out the virtual tour at http://fitzgeraldreserve.org/video.

P O I N T LO B O S S TAT E N AT U R A L R E S E R V E , CA R M E L

This spectacular stretch of coastline has been dubbed the crown jewel of the State Park system — and it’s credited with inspiring Robert Louis Stevenson’s “Treasure Island.” Long John Sil10 SPLASH

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Joshua Yoshida, 8, moves from rock to rock during low tide at the tide pools at Asilomar State Beach in Pacific Grove in March. RANDY VAZQUEZ/STAFF

ver was probably more concerned with piratical pursuits than tide pools, but you’ll be smitten by the sights at Weston Beach, where hermit crabs, limpets, black turban snails and colorful seaweed live in the intertidal zones. Prefer to visit virtually or get a peek ahead of time? Or dive — remotely — beneath the waves? Find links for the park’s new smartphone apps, visitor info and the Point Lobos Foundation’s tide pool guide at www.parks.ca.gov. Details: The reserve, which is off Highway 1 just south of Carmel, is open from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily; day use is $10 per car.

POINT PINOS, PAC I F I C G R OV E

This rugged stretch of coastline from Asilomar State Beach to Point Pinos offers tiny beaches, rocky reefs and tide pools brimming with sea stars, anemones, hermit crabs and more. Some of the most spectacular sights are on the west

side of Point Pinos in an area aptly dubbed the Great Tide Pool. Details: Asilomar State Beach runs along Sunset Drive to Point Pinos in Pacific Grove; www.parks.ca.gov.

C R A B C OV E , A L A M E DA

Alameda’s Crown Memorial State Beach has reopened its Crab Cove Visitor Center and Aquarium on weekends. Check out the exhibits, aquariums and touch pool, then head outside to the Crab Cove Marine Protected Area, where low tide reveals crabs and other colorful sea creatures in their natural habitats. Details: Robert W. Crown Memorial State Beach is open daily for walk-in visitors (the McKay Parking Lot has been closed during the pandemic). The Crab Cove Visitor Center and Aquarium at 1252 McKay Ave. is open on weekends with free admission; ebparks.org.

The tide pools at Point Lobos State Park near Carmel-by-the-Sea woo beachgoers and wildlife lovers alike.

LIPO CHING/STAFF ARCHIVES

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A promise in progress Even in its in-between state, Treasure Island is a prize worth keeping S TO R Y B Y C H U C K BA R N E Y I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y D AV I D E B A R C O

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Like so many Bay Area residents, Michael Hennahane hadn’t given much thought to Treasure Island. During the first 20 years he lived in San Francisco, Hennahane had never even set foot on the flat, 400-acre slab of land anchored in the waters between San Francisco and Oakland. For all that time — including countless treks across the Bay Bridge — the site, in his mind, was “no more than a freeway exit sign.” That is until a friend finally coaxed Hennahane to visit. What he saw left him stunned. “I was so blown away,” he recalls. “Here was this very rich place right under our noses and yet, so overlooked. Every time I returned, I found something new and unique and weird and interesting.” Flash-forward, and Hennahane is now president of the Treasure Island Museum, the entity dedicated to preserving the island’s history. And what fascinating history there is to preserve. Created from landfill in 1936 and sharing the name of Robert Louis Stevenson’s fabled pirates saga, Treasure Island was host to the 1939-40 Golden Gate International Exposition, which attracted nearly 20 million visitors from all over the world. At one point, the island was envisioned as a municipal airport for San Francisco, but World War II intervened, and it wound up serving as a U.S. Navy station from 1942 to 1997. Since the 1980s, the island’s mammoth airplane hangars frequently have housed Hollywood film and TV productions. These days, Treasure Island and its closely conjoined neighbor, Yerba Buena Island, are home to just under 2,000 San Francisco residents living in rental housing. But a massive, $6 billion redevelopment plan now underway eventually will bring 8,000 new homes, as well as three hotels, restaurants, parks, a new ferry A drone provides a bird’s-eye view of Treasure Island, Yerba Buena Island, top, and the Bay Bridge. JANE TYSKA/STAFF

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terminal and upscale retailers. All of which leave Treasure Island currently in a sort of limbo — or “a funky in-between,” as Linda Edson, owner of the island’s popular Aracely Cafe, describes it. Indeed, historic, midcentury buildings and remnants from the exposition share the turf with construction sites that hint at intriguing changes to come. But a drive along the uncrowded backroads also reveals sights that, quite frankly, feel like something out of a zombie-apocalypse movie, as decayed and vacated buildings mix with mountainous piles of rubble. And the pandemic certainly didn’t help. Some retailers who were here as recently as a year or so ago, chose to close shop when confronted with economic challenges too formidable to overcome. “To be honest, Treasure Island is a little moribund right now,” Hennahane admits. “But I think things are going to crack open as the development progresses.” That doesn’t mean there aren’t things to do and places to see while Treasure Island undergoes its dramatic facelift. An exhilarating Bay Bridge bike ride (or drive) might be all you need to spend a few hours away from the bustle of the city. Incentives? Start with the sweeping sight lines. “If you want to experience the most spectacular views of San Francisco, you need to come here,” says MeeSun Boice, the ultra charming co-owner of Mersea restaurant. “Where else can you see the Bay Bridge to the city, the Bay Bridge to Oakland, Angel Island and the Golden Gate Bridge? And on a clear day, you can actually see the windows of the buildings on Alcatraz.” Indeed, the scenery is so beguiling, you’ll often find tourists perched along Treasure Island’s rocky western shoreline taking Instagram-ready selfies or dreamyeyed newlyweds posing for their wedding photos. Mersea, located just a stone’s throw from the water’s edge, capitalizes on that unobstructed scenery while exuding a playful vibe. Crafted from 13 metal shipping containers, it BAY AREA NEWS GROUP

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is imaginatively outfitted with reclaimed and recycled items. The cooking, for example, is done in a modified military “rapid deployment” kitchen that was designed to be dropped in the middle of the Afghan desert and serve 2,400 meals a day to hungry troops. And some of the tables have been topped with wooden lanes from what was once the naval base’s bowling alley. (No gutter balls, please). That playfulness extends to Mersea’s outdoor seating area, which features bocce courts and a putting green and is festooned with succulent gardens. As for the food, Boice, who partnered with chef Parke Ulrich on the restaurant, describes it as “comfort casual.” Guests nosh on double-stacked cheeseburgers, crispy tacos or heavenly bowls of fish chowder while listening to live music — and gazing at the San Francisco skyline, of course. Says Boice, sounding like Treasure Island’s biggest cheerleader, “When you want to meet up with friends, but your East Bay friends don’t want to go into the city, and the city people don’t want to go that far, this is where you can meet and socialize. Enjoy the views and enjoy each other.” Located closer to the heart of the island is Edson’s Aracely Cafe, which offers a calm, relaxing space that includes a large patio and garden with an outdoor fireplace, lounge seating and string lights. Choosing this under-the-radar location for her stylish eatery six years ago was a leap of faith for Edson. “When we first started

Top: Treasure Island’s flat byways make it especially popular with cyclists. Near right: The San Francisco skyline provides a stunning backdrop for justmarried couple Shannon Ong and Lee Shepard, of Oakland, and photographer Harry Who. Far right: Doggie Diner heads are among the unexpected sights near Treasure Island Wines. RAY CHAVEZ/STAFF

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Restaurateur MeeSun Boice, left, opened Mersea two years ago on the shores of Treasure Island, a location popular with diners from across the bay, including Rahul Cariappa, left, Varun Vijayakumar, Rahul Bhaskar and Vikram Nagaraj, of San Jose. RAY CHAVEZ/STAFF

construction, there was literally nothing happening out here. No food traffic. No car traffic. Nothing,” she recalls. “But I thought: ‘If I build it, somebody will come.’” And they do come for a menu that features California-style offerings with a mix of French and Spanish influences. (The croissant French toast with cream cheese and rhubarb is to die for.) Aracely

Nestor Barreto and Wendy Juarez, of Santa Rosa, celebrate their six month anniversary with a waterside selfie. RAY CHAVEZ/STAFF

is also inviting enough that it plays host to weddings and other private events. If it’s an urban winery experience you seek, head to Treasure Island Wines. Housed in a repurposed Navy commissary, it’s a six-brand collective that produces what the owners call “affordable luxury artisan wines” in a pet-friendly environment. The rustically engaging setting,

with its terra cotta tiles, is an ideal place to create bottled poetry, according to Dennis Hayes, the principal winemaker with Umbriaso. “We’re surrounded by chilled water, and we have prevailing cool breezes,” he points out. “So we’ve got natural air conditioning, unlike the wineries in Napa and elsewhere.” Apparently, Treasure Island is also a great place to brew (and drink) beer. For several years, it was home to the Woods Island Club, a so-called “beer beach,” where guests could sample suds while sinking their feet into (trucked-in) sand. Alas, the Island Club shut down due to the pandemic, and access problems created by the redevelopment. But Jim Woods, the co-founder and CEO of Woods Beer & Wine Co. hopes to soon open another retail site close by. Meanwhile, the production side of the company continues to “brew up a storm” on Treasure Island, and his beers are served at both Aracely and Mersea. “We’re not going anywhere,” Woods says. “We believe in Treasure Island long term. I love how it’s just 15 minutes on the bus or Uber (from San Francisco), and you feel like you’re on a different planet.” As Woods and others look forward to the shimmering enhancements the future will bring, Hennahane and his team are working to make sure that Treasure Island’s distinctive past doesn’t get lost in all the commotion. Their quaint museum, located in Building One along the Avenue of the Palms, shut down during the pandemic (and was still closed as of this writing), but continued to offer online exhibits, lectures, self-guided Treasure Island tours and more. And with redevelopment comes aspiration. Fundraising is underway for a bigger, glossier facility — complete with theaters and virtual reality attractions. “We want to be a full-sized, modern museum, rather than a repository for dusty items,” Hennahane says. “Like the island itself, we’re changing with the times.” BAY AREA NEWS GROUP

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Island hopping in San Francisco Bay, from Angel to Alcatraz and more B Y JAC K I E B U R R E L L

e can all agree the Hawaiian islands are heavenly. Catalina? That’s lovely, too. But the San Francisco Bay is a little island paradise all its own, dotted with rocky outcroppings big and small, from the Sisters to Angel Island, Alcatraz and more. And James Martin tallies an astonishing 48 in his book, “The Islands of San Francisco Bay,” from Belvedere to Yerba Buena, Red Rock and East Brother, whose Victorian-era light station and B&B is still shuttered. Here are three you can explore with ease, including one you may not even realize is an island. ANGEL ISLAND

With its 360-degree views of the entire bay, this state park offers some of the most breathtaking scenery around. Hop the ferry from Tiburon or San Francisco and spend the day at this state park, once known as the Ellis Island of the West. The perimeter trail offers a 5.5 mile loop around the island for hikers and mountain bikers. Head to the top of 788-foot Mount Livermore for the full panoramic effect. There are bike rentals on the island and tram and Segway tours. The U.S. Immigration Station Museum has been closed during the pandemic shutdown, but you can see the buildings and learn more at www.parks.ca.gov. (In non-pandemic times, the museum is open for guided tours and interpretive talks Wednesday-Sunday, $3-$7.) Grab a bite at the Angel Island Cafe and Cantina near the ferry landing at Ayala Cove. Or pick up picnic fare at Lil Sam’s, the market next to Sam’s Anchor Cafe at 31 Main St. in Tiburon, before boarding the ferry. There are picnic tables and a beach at Ayala Cove.

Visitors walk past Alameda’s U.S.S. Hornet Sea, Air & Space Museum.

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Details: Find more details at https://angelisland.com. The Angel Island-Tiburon ferry runs Wednesday-Sunday with three or more round-trip crossings to the island beginning at 10 a.m. from 21 Main St. in Tiburon. Tickets are $5-$15, and reservations are required; https://angelislandferry.com. The Blue & Gold Fleet makes two round-trip runs Friday-Sunday from Pier 41. Tickets are $11$19.50; www.blueandgoldfleet.com.

A LCAT R A Z I S L A N D

One of the world’s most popular tourist destinations, The Rock is as much a part of the city’s iconography as the Transamerica Pyramid. The 18 SPLASH

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The old Fort McDowell army structure sits empty on Angel Island as sailboats cruise by on San Francisco Bay last year.

Visitors to Alcatraz Island’s cell block can download the awardwinning audio tour onto their phones.

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JOSE CARLOS FAJARDO/STAFF ARCHIVES

erstwhile home of Al Capone, Machine Gun Kelly and other felonious types was turned over to the National Park Service in 1972, much to the delight of the 1.3 million visitors who traipsed these shores every year — before 2020, anyway. The island reopened in March for tours. Google search results notwithstanding, just one tour company has the National Park Service concession. Book your Alcatraz City Cruises tickets ahead ($25-$41 for the day tour), then board the ship at Pier 33 for the 15-minute ride to the Alcatraz dock and a chance to explore this infamous island. The self-guided audio tour of the Alcatraz Cellhouse, by the way, is also available as an Alcatraz Experience app, so you can listen to it on your phone with your own earbuds. Find details at www.nps.gov/alca and www.alcatrazcruises.com. A L A M E DA I S L A N D

An estuary separates this island — and its 78,000 residents — from the mainland, with four bridges and two tunnels connecting the landmass, with its Victorian-era homes, cozy eateries and former Naval Air Station, to Oakland. The air station bears more than a passing resemblance to a ghost town but holds some spirited gems, including Faction Brewing, Rock Wall Wine Company and St. George Spirits. The historic U.S.S. Hornet Sea, Air and Space Museum is berthed at 707 W. Hornet Ave. — the pier at the far southern end of the station — and is open for tours on weekends. And downtown holds plenty of temptations, including Speisekammer, a German beer garden at 2424 Lincoln Ave. where you can get your schnitzel to go or enjoy it on the patio Wednesday-Sunday; http:// speisekammer.com.

San Francisco Bay is framed by the porch of the historic Guard House in the East Garrison area of Angel Island’s Fort McDowell. KARL MONDON/STAFF ARCHIVES

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Scenic feasts Seaside, lakeside or by the bay, brunch gets better with great views BY J E S S I CA YA D E G A R A N A N D JAC K I E B U R R E L L

here’s something magical about a seaside restaurant — the murmur of lapping waves, gulls spiraling lazily overhead and a gentle breeze wafting across the umbrella-dotted patio or deck. Add sunshine and brunch to the equation, and you’ve got a perfect summer day, one so lazy and lovely, your only dilemma is whether to go Bloody Mary or Mimosa. Whether you’re gazing at Angel Island from the deck of Sam’s Anchor Cafe, the Oakland estuary from your perch at Jack London Square or Pacific surf from a seaside distillery, these waterside brunch spots are gems. Just remember: Reservations are strongly recommended. Mission Rock Resort serves brunch on the shores of San Francisco Bay in the Dogpatch neighborhood of San Francisco in 2019. KARL MONDON/STAFF ARCHIVES

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Eve’s Waterfront OA K L A N D

Perched on the bay, this seafood-centric New American restaurant is tucked away from its Jack London Square neighbors, with a waterfront deck that boasts glorious views of lolling boats, lapping water and gliding gulls. But that doesn’t mean business is slow. Eve’s reopened April 30, and its weekend brunch and Friday sunset dinner reservations are filling up fast. While low on egg dishes, the brunch menu is a creative update to the original Eve’s menu from the restaurant’s inception in 2016. Starters include housemade burrata and Korean-style fried cauliflower, and the pancakes in the two-egg Bayside Breakfast are made with almond flour. Eve’s Ultimate Burger is made with grass-fed Angus and topped with onion jam. And, of course, there’s a fried chicken sando with spicy slaw and fresh mozzarella. The dish: We’re all about that organic Fried Chicken — but in Benedict form ($15), with two poached eggs and jalapeno Hollandaise on an English muffin. Or you can go fancy (and even more filling) with the Prix Fixe Feast ($32), which comes with your choice of starter, entree and dessert. They say the chowder, made with leeks, Manila clams and Hobb’s bacon, is the best in Oakland. The details: Weekend brunch is served from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Also open for sunset dinners from 5 to 8 p.m. Fridays at 15 Embarcadero West, Oakland; www. eveswaterfront.com.

Mission Rock Resort SAN FRANCISCO

One block from Chase Center on the calm blue shores of Mission Bay, this two-story restaurant offers a true escape, with scenic views of San Francisco, a covered deck with 30 heaters and simple, deliciously prepared seafood dishes. A solid selection of beverages, from a Bacon Bloody 22 SPLASH

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Oakland estuary views sparkle from Eve’s Waterfront restaurant in Oakland.

DOUG DURAN/STAFF ARCHIVES

Mary to a Ramos Fizz, preps the palate for raw bar oyster bites or a pricey-but-worth-it Dungeness Crab Roll ($30) on buttered, split-top brioche. From there, you can tuck into larger shared plates, like a roasted beet salad or Thai Chili Glazed Chicken Wings, or a more traditional brunch-y dish, like Huevos Rancheros or smoked salmon Benedict. The dish: French toast that comes with bacon? Yes, please. Mission Rock’s version ($19) is decadent and made with vanilla custard, citrus mascarpone and mixed berries. If you’re dining closer to noon, go for the fish tacos ($19) topped with cilantro slaw and pico de gallo, with organic corn chips, guacamole and refried black beans. Great lunch for sharing, too. The details: Weekend brunch is served from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Also open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday at 817 Terry A Francois Blvd., San Francisco; www.missionrockresort.com.

Moss Beach Distillery M O S S B E AC H

Nestled on a Half Moon Bay cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, this historic restaurant offers breathtaking views and one of the most popular dog-friendly patios in Northern California. The patio is equipped with fire pits to keep you toasty when the fog rolls in. And while the Sunday brunch window is relatively small — just three hours — there’s plenty on the California cuisine menu to keep you brunching all day, including burgers, soups, salads and pastas. But if you do score a brunch rezzie: It’s fixed at $37, which gets you bottomless Mimosas, freshly baked pastries, a cup of seasonal fruit, freshly squeezed orange juice, coffee or tea and your choice of four entrees. The dish: In addition to grilled skirt steak or salmon, there’s a California three-egg omelette made with chopped prawns, tomato, avocado, scallions and cheese and topped with a Bay Spice aioli. Our vote is for the Pulled Pork Rancheros, crispy corn tortillas stuffed with slow-cooked pork shoulder, two eggs over-easy, housemade tomatillo sauce, queso fresco, avocado and sour cream. The details: Sunday brunch is served from noon to 3 p.m. Regular menu served daily until the last seating (7 p.m.) at 140 Beach Way, Moss Beach; https://mossbeachdistillery.com.

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on the brunch menu: huevos rancheros, Firestone lager-battered fish and chips, cioppino and a stellar Sam’s Louie. And to sip? Sam’s legendary Ramos Fizz, of course.

Sam’s Anchor Cafe

The details: The weekend brunch is served from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Open daily for lunch and dinner, as well, at 27 Main St. in Tiburon; https://samscafe.com.

TIBURON

Halyards gently clanging against sailboat masts and clinking drinks are all the soundtrack you need at Sam’s Anchor Cafe. Tiburon’s century-old eatery is so sea-centric, 75 percent of the restaurant is perched over the water. An expansive deck, dotted with white umbrellas and beer garden-style tables, offers views of Angel Island, Belvedere, San Francisco and sailboats aplenty. A glass wall in the recently renovated dining room can be rolled back to let those sea breezes in on warm days. And if you order takeout, they’ll deliver it to your boat at the dock. It doesn’t get more nautical than that. Founder Sam Vella opened his eponymous eatery in 1920 in a tent on the beach. Since then, it has become such an icon, locals got nervous when thennew co-owners James Tate and Conor Flaherty shut it down for six weeks of remodeling in 2019. But the results are splendid — spiffed up, but still laidback. The dish: Two words — Crab Benedict ($27). They do a regular Benedict ($18), too, but this decadent dish adds Dungeness and avocado to the mix. Also 24

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Jack O’Neill Restaurant & Lounge SA N TA C R U Z

Surf legend Jack O’Neill loved the ocean — and apparently brunch, because it’s offered daily at this revamped beachfront restaurant. Tucked into Santa Cruz’s surf-themed Dream Inn, the dining room boasts beach hues of sky blue, sunny gold and beige sand, with vintage photos of O’Neill, surf memorabilia and enough floor-to-ceiling windows to determine the surf report yourself. The brunch menu reflects the restaurant’s local-seasonal-organic ethos, and its fresh-caught seafood meets the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch sustainability standard. And while adults will relish

the apres-surf cocktails, the kiddos will appreciate the menu’s savory and sweet options (it’s not often you have French toasts sticks alongside chicken fingers). The dish: Farmstead Ricotta and Lemon Pancakes ($14) sound like perfection if you’re going sweet. If not, dig into one of two European-style quiches: Jack’s favorite ($14) is made with spinach and pecorino or ham and gruyere, served with hash browns or side salad. The Daybreak Sandwich ($16) offers two eggs with cheddar cheese and ham, sausage or bacon, tucked into the chef’s seeded bun, and served with hash browns or baby lettuce salad. The details: Brunch is served from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily. Open for dinner daily as well at 175 W. Cliff Drive in Santa Cruz; www.jackoneillrestaurant.com.

Far left: The patio fills up with diners at Lake Chalet Seafood Bar & Grill in Oakland. DOUG DURAN/STAFF ARCHIVES Left: The deck overlooks Belvedere Cove at Sam’s Anchor Cafe in Tiburon. ROBERT TONG/MARIN INDEPENDENT JOURNAL ARCHIVES

($21), nothing says brunch quite like a Bloody Mary made with chile-infused vodka and housemade Mary mix ($13). Ahem, topped with candied bacon ($3 extra), of course. The details: Weekend brunch is served from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and lunch and dinner daily at 1520 Lakeside Drive on Lake Merritt in Oakland; www.thelakechalet. com.

The Joinery SAU SA L I TO

Lake Chalet Seafood Bar & Grill OA K L A N D

With its long dock jutting out into Oakland’s Lake Merritt, this renovated boat house offers a variety of dining spaces, alfresco on the umbrella-dotted dock,

indoors in the lake-view dining room and at the bar, where floor-to-ceiling windows capture the sun-dappled expanse. Built between 1909 and 1913 — first as a water pumping station for the Oakland Fire Department, then a municipal boathouse — the structure reopened a century later as this waterside restaurant. Pre-pandemic, gondolas plied the gentle waves just in front, adding to the ambience. But we’ll take whatever we can get — especially if it involves fresh seafood, beignets or French toast with all the flourishes. The dish: Sate that sweet tooth with blueberry-lemon-ricotta beignets ($12), then head straight over to the savory side of the menu. Whether it’s the Dungeness Crab Benedict ($21), the Maine Lobster Roll ($27) with tarragon aioli or the Bucket o’ Yard Birds

This airy, industrial-chic eatery on the Sausalito waterfront is just the laidback kind of spot to while away the hours, watching boats glide past or launch from a nearby ramp, as you sip beer and indulge in seasonal deliciousness. It’s not a brunch place per se — the same menu is served all day, and there’s nothing waffle-y about it — but between the water views and the food, you can’t go wrong. Tucked in a warehouse once used for boat building, The Joinery is a seamless blend of inside and out. Big doors roll out of the way on the bay side, so even a seat at one of the long tables inside yields views of Richardson Bay and Belvedere. The breezy deck is where it’s at, though, so bring a sweater. Order at the counter, grab your drinks, then go find a spot and settle in. The dish: The Joinery is billed as a beer hall — co-owner Tyler Catalana also owns Mill Valley Beerworks and co-founded Fort Point Beer Co. — and rotisserie, but it’s much more than that. The salads are extravagant, colorful and creative. The Fattoush Salad ($13.50), for example, is made with little gems, arugula, radish, mint and a sumac vinaigrette. But we swoon for the fried chicken sandwich ($13.25) topped with Calabrian chili aïoli and fennel. And yes, breakfast beer is a thing. The details: Opens at 11 a.m. daily at 300 Turney St. in Sausalito; www.joineryca.com. BAY AREA NEWS GROUP

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Q& A

Venice, anyone? Napa Valley gondolier’s river rides will bring it to mind

S Q A

B Y J I M H A R R I N G TO N

ean O’Malley talks easily as he makes his way down the Napa River, passing upscale shops and restaurants as we float by Napa’s downtown in his 1,300-pound, 13.5-foot-long gondola. It’s not exactly Venice. But it’s marvelous — and an ideal setting for O’Malley, who owns Napa Valley Gondola and offers hourlong tours in his distinctive craft. Naturally, we had questions.

How did you get into this business?

I was kind of semi-retired, but still wanting to work. But I didn’t want to sit behind a desk or do what I used to do — I used to be in Silicon Valley doing technology and venture capitalist stuff. I was thinking I wanted to go do tours for wineries. I wanted to use my personality for good, not evil. So I looked up jobs for tour guides in Napa, and this thing popped up. I said, “Wow, gondola tour guide? That’s perfect.” I called (the former owner) up and said, “Hey, I love the idea. I live in Napa. I’ve got a dock behind my house. I used to row crew. I used to skateboard. I ski. So, I’m really well balanced.” He said, “You’ve got a dock behind your house and you live in Napa? You are hired.”

Q A

Do you sing for your customers?

Q A

Really? I wonder where that notion came from — an old Hollywood movie or something?

I have learned a couple of songs. Mostly, I rely on music from my playlist on my phone and Bluetooth speakers. Gondoliers don’t traditionally sing in Venice.

It was a Gilbert and Sullivan opera called “The Gondoliers.” Of course, the gondolier in an opera sang all the time.

5 C O O L N A PA R I V E R AC T I V I T I E S “This river is a hidden secret. A lot of people — even people who have lived here their whole lives — don’t realize what you can do on this river,” O’Malley says. Gondola rides: O’Malley’s Napa Valley Gondola offers hour-long rides for up to six passengers for $145. Trips depart ThursdayTuesday from Napa’s Main Street Boat Dock. Make reservations and find more information at https:// napavalleygondola.com. Waterskiing and wakeboarding: “It’s as good or better than the Delta,” he says. Fishing: “You have salmon, striped bass, sturgeon, steelhead.” Canoeing: The perfect way to experience the river, he says. Swimming: Yes, you can swim in the river. “When it’s warm,” he says, “it’s nice.”

Q A

Is there a law somewhere that says gondoliers must wear striped shirts?

Q A

I know you allow wine on board the gondola. What’s the policy on bringing food?

Q A

How tired are your arms at the end of the day?

When I first started this job, I asked the same question. (The origin) has nothing to do with gondoliers or Venice. It has to do with European mariners — the guys who work around boats wore striped shirts. When you fell in, it was easy to spot and be rescued. As things have modernized, most mariners don’t wear striped shirts (now) — except gondoliers, who kind of hold onto that old traditional garb.

We allow food. It can’t be Kentucky Fried Chicken or something with barbecue sauce on it. But if you want to bring cheese and crackers or some sort of meat plate, something along those lines, you can do it. There are so many tasting rooms within walking distance of the boat, you can go grab a wine from one of the tasting rooms and bring it down to the boat.

One of the great things about this job is the workout. It’s one of the greatest workouts I’ve ever done. I used to play baseball, basketball, football — really worked out when I was younger. This physical activity is great for your core, legs, chest and lower back. You can really get in great shape during the course of a season. One of my gondoliers is in his late 60s, but he’s built like he’s in his late 20s.

Sean O'Malley, owner of Napa Valley Gondola, left, takes Damon and Monique Turrentine on a ride along the Napa River in May.

RANDY VAZQUEZ/STAFF

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Ply the waves in Santa Cruz? Let us count the ways S TO RY BY TO M B E N T L E Y PHOTOS BY DAI SUG ANO

hank your board shorts that Monterey Bay is so big. There’s plenty of room for paddles, whether poked out of a kayak or into the big blue by a paddleboarder. Surfers can seek sets to carve (and sets will be found), fisher-folks have places to plop their lures, and scuba divers never have to hold their breath. With Santa Cruz Harbor anchoring the north end, many are the ways to rock your bad self on its waves. But before we get into the myriad ways individuals or small parties can frolic on the drink, let’s discuss how large parties can frolic while taking a drink — and while taking in wide-eyed views of this bejeweled sea and shore. That would be via the Chardonnay.

From left, passengers Paulina Hanna, Natalie Pridmore, Nicole Johnson and Bianca Badham take in the sea air during the Chardonnay Sailing Charters’ cruise last month off Santa Cruz. BAY AREA NEWS GROUP

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The Chardonnay’s no rowboat. Chardonnay I, a mere tyke at 50 feet, was built by famed racing-yacht designer Bill Lee, who stretched the sequel, the Chardonnay II, to 70 feet of sleek fun. The company offers public and private charters, sunset and pizza cruises and views that won’t quit. There’s plenty of room to lounge topside, wine glass in hand, as the sails billow and the breezes blow — and you don’t have to be a tourist to go for a sail. Visitors come from all over the world, says operations director Allison Green, “but we’re also lucky to cater to our local community, who have been especially supportive during the pandemic.” And, she adds, “the cherry on top of it all is having one of the best office views in town.” Prefer plying the breaks to sailing the whitecaps? With (insincere) apologies to Huntington Beach, Santa Cruz is the real Surf City. There are breaks north and south, some only whispered about and some, like Steamer Lane, known throughout the surfing world. For those a bit shaky on their boards, Steamer’s little brother, Cowell Beach, is where Cliff Hodges, born and raised Santa Cruzan, has been teaching surfing skills for 18 years at Adventure Out. “Cowell Beach is one of the best beginner surf spots in the world,” he says. “The soft, rolling waves and protected cove setup make it ideal for beginning surfers to get long, gentle rides without getting tossed around by larger waves.” Hodges wasn’t around, of course, when three Hawaiian princes surfed the San Lorenzo river mouth in 1885, the first such ride in the continental states. But as he says, “There is so much wonderful surfing history here, and we have the surfing museum to prove it.”

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Above: You don’t need your own boat to relax at sea, when a sailing charter offers sunset and wine-tasting cruises. Right: Passenger Simon De Aguero takes in the sunset just outside Santa Cruz Harbor.

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If you’d rather not wait for a wave to propel you, you can put a paddle to the task. Besides tours in Moss Landing, Venture Quest Kayaking offers one from the Santa Cruz Wharf. “The waters near the wharf are usually calm, especially in the mornings,” says owner Dave Johnston. “It’s a short paddle from the wharf over to the kelp forest near Lighthouse Point, where the sea otters live. Along the way, there are often sightings of seals and sea lions and, if you are lucky, some dolphins or whales.” If you’d rather stand tall with a paddle, there are options there as well. Stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) has come into its own in the past few years, and the SUP Shack in the Santa Cruz Harbor is here to help. The harbor is an easy place to pick up the splashy sport and the shack staff offers classes, equipment rentals and, if you want to double-dip, kayaks too. And given the location, it’s easy to combine the exercise and zen with sea life sightings, too. “Here in the Santa Cruz Harbor, there is a family of harbor seals that lives here, and we get visiting sea lions,” says owner Trudie Ransom. “Both these creatures are very inquisitive and love to observe the paddlers as they cruise by.” And if you’d rather row with a club (well, actually an oar), the Santa Cruz Rowing Club will welcome you with open boats. The group offers lessons, boat rentals and a chance to row with your fellows on the Monterey Bay. “Rowing is a relatively nonstress sport, so it’s good for many people who have previous sports injuries,” says club president Linda Locklin. “It also gets you out into the wilderness of MontereyBay — right offshore of the busy beaches and streets. We often see sea otters, sea lions, many kinds of birds and when lucky, whales.” Or you can kick back on the deck of the Chardonnay and let the wind do the work. C’mon in — the water’s fine.

I F YO U G O Here’s just a sampling of Santa-Cruz based water recreation: Sailing: The sleek Chardonnay II yacht sails from Santa Cruz Harbor for two-hour sunset, wine tasting and other themed cruises, from Champagne brunch to pizza night. Tickets are $35.50 for kids and $70 for adults; www.chardonnay.com Surfing: Adventure Out offers surf clinics, SUP classes and other adventures in Santa Cruz and Pacifica; www.adventureout.com. Surf coaching and lessons are also available from Centered Surfing (https:// centeredsurfing.com), Santa Cruz Surf Lessons (www. santacruzsurflessons.net) and Surf School Santa Cruz (https://surfschoolsantacruz.com). Kayaking: Based at the Santa Cruz Wharf, Venture Quest offers equipment rentals ($35 and up), classes and guided tours; www.santacruzkayak.com. Kayak Connection rents kayaks ($30 and up) at the Santa Cruz Harbor and Elkhorn Slough; https://kayakconnection.com. And Eskape Kayak offers coaching for experienced sea and whitewater kayakers; http://eskapekayak.com. Stand-up Paddleboarding (SUP): The SUP Shack offers SUP rentals ($30) and classes, as well as kayak rentals, in Santa Cruz Harbor; www.supshacksantacruz.com. Rowing: Learn to row or take a tour with the Santa Cruz Rowing Club, which offers lessons, rentals and membersonly tours. Membership is $100 per year, and use of club boats is $20 per row or $150 for 10 launches; https:// scrowing.org. More aquatic fun: Capitola and Santa Cruz Boat Rentals rents motorboats, kayaks, SUP and fishing gear; http:// capitolaboatandbait.com. Or you can dive beneath the waves with Adventure Sports Unlimited’s scuba and swim lessons and trips; https://asudoit.com.

Left: Passenger Lars Backstrom captures a moment with his family during a cruise last month. Above, right: An interior view of Chardonnay Sailing Charters’ “Santa Cruz 70” sailing yacht.

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s ’ t e L ake e m r th fo kes! la

Fishing, hiking, biking, boating, bird-watching and more — seven Bay Area bodies of water beckon pleasure seekers S TO R Y B Y C H U C K BA R N E Y A N D J OA N M O R R I S I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y JA R R E D B R I G G S

es, the Bay Area is blessed by its closeness to the Pacific Ocean and the San Francisco Bay, but when it comes to dipping our toes in the water or soaking up the ambience of a lakeside scene, we’ve got plenty of options. The continuing drought might limit access to lakes for fishing and boating because of lower water levels, but there are shorelines, picnic areas and hiking trails to enjoy. (Given our current state of constant change, best to double check with rangers if you want to be in or on the water, not just adjacent to it.) Here are some of the Bay Area’s favorites spots.

Lake Berryessa N A PA C O U N T Y, I N T H E VACA M O U N TA I N S

Last year’s devastating Hennessey Fire destroyed some structures and severely scarred portions of the wooded land around the region’s largest recreational lake, forcing a monthlong closure. But recovery is underway, and Berryessa figures to be buzzing with plenty of activity this summer. Wedged between Blue Ridge and Cedar Roughs, Berryessa — with its 165 miles of oak-covered shoreline — is an ideal destination for boating and paddle sports, fishing, hiking, cycling and bird-watching (keep an eye out for eagles, hawks and wild turkeys). And for swimmers, there are es-

pecially good vibes, as Berryessa’s water temperature reaches up to 75 degrees in the summer. Popular launch sites include historic Markley Cove Resort, located between Winters and the Napa Valley, and Pleasure Cove Marina, which miraculously escaped fire damage.

Boating on Lake Berryessa is a summer tradition. JOSE CARLOS FAJARDO/ STAFF

DETAILS

• Cabins, accommodating up to 10 people, are available to rent at Pleasure Cove (no pets allowed). • The cabins at Markley Cove are closed until further notice, due to fire damage. • Swimmers can access the shoreline from Bureau of Reclamation-managed day use areas. There are boat exclusion areas located in Oak Shores so families

can swim safely away from motorized vessels. No lifeguards are on duty. • Among Berryessa’s popular hikes is the Smittle Creek Trail, a 4.7 mile pathway rated as moderate, that follows the shoreline from Smittle Creek Park to Coyote Knolls in Oak Shores Park. • Find details on the Markley Cove Resort at https://markleycove.com, and Pleasure Cove Marina at https:// goberryessa.com.

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Boats for rent are docked at Lake Del Valle at Del Valle Regional Park in Livermore. DOUG DURAN/STAFF

Lake Del Valle

C E N T R A L A L A M E DA C O U N T Y, 5 M I L E S SOUTH OF LIVERMORE

Del Valle, operated by the East Bay Regional Parks District, is a local favorite that offers varied recreational options, including fishing, boating, windsurfing and sailing. Algae levels have nixed swimming this season, and kayaking, stand up paddleboard and similar close-to-the-water craft are not advised. But this is a hiker’s haven. The 5-mile long lake is surrounded by 4,395 acres of parkland with a multitude of trails for hiking, horseback riding and nature study. The park also serves as the eastern gateway to the Ohlone Wilderness Trail and its 28 miles of scenic backcountry trails. Download the park district’s color trail guides before you go, so you’ll know what wildflowers and plants you see on your hike. DETAILS

• Launch fees are $5 per day for trailered boats, and several outfitters, including Rocky Mountain Recreation Company and Outback Adventures, offer rentals. The park also has 150 camping sites. • Parking is $6 per car and $4 per trailered vehicle. • Bringing Fido? There’s a $2 fee per dog, but guide and service dogs are free. • The park gates are open from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily through Labor Day. Find details at www.ebparks.org.

Coyote Lake Harvey Bear Ranch County Park

1 0840 C OYOT E R E S E R VO I R R OA D, G I L R OY

Coyote Lake and this park are nestled in the hills just east of Gilroy and offer a wide variety of fun, including trails for biking, horseback riding and hiking, fishing, camping and boating, when water levels permit. (Low water levels closed the lake to boating last fall.) Cyclists pedal the Sawyer Camp Trail alongside the Lower Crystal Springs Reservoir in Burlingame. KARL MONDON/STAFF 36 SPLASH

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Dillon Garcia, left, and Will Dillion, both of Hanford, fish at Coyote Lake Harvey Bear Ranch County Park in Gilroy. The 6,695-acre regional park features an amphitheater, picnic grounds and paved and natural trails, and also allows dogs on leash. ANDA CHU/STAFF

The 6,695 acre regional park features an amphitheater, picnic grounds, paved and natural trails — and your canine friends can join you, as long as they remain leashed. The lake also is popular with anglers, with black bass, bluegill, black crappie and Eurasian carp swimming in its waters. DETAILS

•T he park, which is part of the Santa Clara County Parks system,

offers day use permits for $6. Camping fees range from $18 for hike-in tent sites to $44 for RVs. • The park is open from 8 a.m. to sunset daily. Find details at www. sccgov.org/sites/parks/.

Crystal Springs Reservoir 950 S K Y L I N E B LV D. , B U R L I N G A M E

Crystal Springs Reservoir consists of two artificial lakes built in a valley rift created by the San Andreas Fault. The lakes are part of the San Mateo Creek watershed, and thus, no on-water activity is permitted. But this gorgeous spot is worth a visit, thanks to a 15-plus-mile trail that winds around the lakes and through some of the prettiest scenery you’ll find. This trail is popular with hikers, bikers, skaters and runners of all ages. The lower reservoir covers the once booming city of Crystal Springs, which at the height of its glory, included a hotel, dairies and a stagecoach stop. The town went bust in 1875 and by 1887, was covered by the Lower Crystal Springs reservoir. The upper reservoir, originally called Laguna Grande, marks the site of an encampment of the famed Portola expedition, a Spanish journey of exploration in 1769-1770, marking the first recorded landing of Europeans in what is now California.

• The Crystal Springs Reservoir Trial has three segments — the San Andreas, the Sawyer Camp and the Crystal Springs — with multiple points of entry for each, so you can customize your hike to the length you prefer. Find trail maps and details about this San Mateo County park at https://parks.smcgov.org/.

Lafayette Reservoir

3 84 9 M T. D I A B LO B LV D, L A FAY E T T E

DETAILS

• The trails are replete with native plants and wildflowers, along with a variety of wildlife, including bald eagles.

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Although boating is temporarily suspended at the reservoir — normally you can rent pedal and row boats here — there is plenty to see and do at

this popular waterway, including hiking, fishing and picnicking. As Bay Area reservoirs go, this one is relatively recent. Construction on the earth-filled dam began in 1928 but soon hit a snag. As the concrete apron was being poured, the dam began sliding downhill, coming to rest 200 yards from where it started. A redesign — and caution — delayed completion until 1933. The reservoir is smaller than initially planned — and its eye-catching outlet tower strangely taller — but hikers who walk the paved, 2.7-mile Lakeside Nature Trail don’t seem to mind. The 4.5-mile unpaved Rim Trail that runs over the Moraga and Lafayette hills provides more of a hiking challenge. Dogs are wel-

Above: Ala Vasquez, of Oakley, relaxes on a bench on the shore of Los Vaqueros Reservoir in Livermore in 2017. Left: Anglers fish at Lafayette Reservoir last month. DOUG DURAN/STAFF

vehicle. Find details at https://www.ebmud.com/recreation.

Lake Chabot

come on leash. And fishing is allowed with a permit. DETAILS

• Bicyclists and people on roller skates, roller blades and scooters are allowed on the Lakeside Trail and roads from noon until closing on Tuesdays and Thursdays and from opening until 11 a.m. on Sundays. • Small picnics only — 3 households and 25 people maximum — are now permitted. (The large, reservable picnic sites remain closed.) • The park, which is part of the East Bay Municipal Utility District watershed, is open from 6 a.m. until dusk, which is 9 p.m. in June and July and 8:30 p.m. in August and so on. Parking is $7 per

p.m. daily. Find details on the cafe and boat rentals at www. lakechabotrecreation.com and on the park at www.ebparks.org.

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Los Vaqueros

Lake Chabot Regional Park has long been considered one of the Bay Area’s best kept secrets — but it likely won’t be for long. That’s because there’s something for everyone here: Lovely scenery and abundant wildlife are Instagram-ready. The terrain is laced with more than a dozen hiking and biking trails. There’s an outdoor fitness zone, a grassy play area, picnic sites, horseshoe pits and more. At the center of it all is a 315-acre reservoir stocked with hefty trout and catfish and plied by watercraft of all types. Want to leave the skipper duties to someone else? Visitors can kick back aboard the Chabot Queen tour boat. And when it’s time for refueling, there’s the Lake Chabot Marina and Cafe, known for, among other things, its Skippy Burger (yes, that’s peanut butter on a burger).

If it’s big fish you crave, check out Los Vaqueros Reservoir, touted by some as the Bay Area’s top fishing lake. Need proof? See photos of anglers posing with their enormous trout on the lake’s Facebook page. Apparently, size matters when it comes to Los Vaqueros. With a volume of 160,000 acre-feet of water, it is twice as big as San Pablo Reservoir. And because it largely relies on water from the Delta, rather than storm runoff, it can withstand drought conditions better than many other area lakes. It’s also one of the best sites in the Bay Area to see and photograph golden eagles, incredible hunters that prey on ground squirrels and other rodents. Winter and spring are the best times to spot them.

DETAILS

• Fishing access is $5 per day. •T ent and RV camping are available year-round at nearby Anthony Chabot Campground. For reservations, call the East Bay Regional Park District at 510-562-2267. •P arking is $5 per vehicle and $4 per trailered vehicle. •T he park is open from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. through Labor Day, and the cafe is open for grab-and-go fare from 7 a.m. to 5

B E T W E E N L I V E R M O R E A N D B R E N T WO O D, I N T H E N O R T H E R N D I A B LO R A N G E

DETAILS

• Los Vaqueros features more than 60 miles of trails. There are trailheads at both entrances, along with trailheads along the main roads and at the marina. •B ecause the reservoir stores drinking water, swimming and personal watercraft are not allowed, but boat rentals are available at the marina. No dogs allowed. •P arking is $6 for the general public, $5 for seniors and $4 for those who live in the Contra Costa Water District. Find more details at www.ccwater.com/losvaqueros.

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DIVE-IN DELIGHTS

Five splash-happy spots for water play

B Y J E S S I CA YA D E G A R A N

ummer temperatures starting to skyrocket? Get yourself to a body of water. Public swimming pools and aquatic complexes around the Bay Area are starting to welcome guests back for socially distanced recreational splashing and sliding, from the Morgan Hill Aquatics Center to San Ramon’s Olympic Pool & Aquatic Center. Or wade in one of the region’s many natural swimming holes and reservoirs, from the Contra Loma Swim Lagoon in Antioch to the Cull Canyon Swim Complex in Castro Valley. Just remember to make reservations — they’re required, along with nominal access fees — and check online for the latest information on hours and reduced-capacity guidelines. Whether you have kids or grandkids, you’re a kid at heart or an aquatic fitness buff, there’s a splash zone here for you. Don’t forget your pool noodles.

Elijah Rhodes, 2, of Antioch, splashes around in the swim lagoon at the Contra Loma Regional Park in Antioch in 2018. ANDA CHU/STAFF ARCHIVES

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The swim lagoon at Hayward’s Don Castro Regional Recreation Area beckons swimmers and waders alike. ARIC CRABB/STAFF ARCHIVES

SA N R A M O N O LY M P I C P O O L & AQ UAT I C C E N T E R

This recently renovated outdoor water complex includes a 50-meter pool, pool deck, play pool and upgraded play structure. While the beloved Lil Squirt Water Slide has been retired after 26 years, a new addition — a humongous bucket that periodically dumps water all over the structure — should keep kiddos squealing in delight. Also look for two new water slides coming off the main platform and a new interactive feature allowing kids and grandkids to spin water in any direction. Bonus: Shaded areas and umbrella-covered tables are good for picnicking, as permitted by county guidelines. Details: Open through September at 9900 Broadmoor Drive in San Ramon; www.sanramon.ca.gov/aquatics.

MORGAN HILL AQ UAT I C S C E N T E R

Before making a splash, take in the lovely scenery with shaded grassy areas and large palm trees lining the perimeter of this South Bay escape. Then dip into all the water fun, which includes two large water slides, a competition pool with diving boards, a recreation pool with water playground and spray ground with fountains and geysers. Did we mention the poolside cabana rentals? The facility is open year round for lap swim, too. Details: Reopening in June (in accordance with county and state guidelines) at 42 SPLASH

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16200 Condit Road in Morgan Hill; www. morganhill.ca.gov/aquatics.

C O N T R A LO M A S W I M L AG O O N

Located inside the 775-acre Contra Loma Regional Park, this 80-acre reservoir is lifeguarded and chlorinated for summertime swimming and cooling off on the sandy beach after a day of hiking. Boating and fishing enthusiasts will relish the abundance of catfish, black and striped bass, bluegill and trout, too. Concession stands should be open, too. Just make sure you arrive early or book a spot: The swim facility normally reaches capacity early on weekends and holidays, with no entries allowed for the remainder of the day. But starting capacity in June is capped at 25 percent of normal. Reservations for swimming at East Bay Parks lagoons and reservoirs can be made up to two weeks in advance for up to six people. Details: Reopened on Memorial Day weekend at 1200 Frederickson Lane, Antioch, but check for COVID-related updates and hours at www.ebparks.org/ contra_loma

C U L L CA N YO N SWIM COMPLEX

A sand-bottomed lagoon in Castro Valley? Oh yes. Located inside the Cull Canyon Recreation Area just off 580, this secluded, tree-lined reservoir features a large floating dock where adults and big kids line up for a jump into the 11-foot deep chlorinated water (the littles enjoy splashing

in the shallows or playing on the white sandy beach). The swim complex, including bathhouse, vending machines and lifeguard service, typically operates on weekends and holidays through Sept. 7 (and weekdays through Aug. 14). No lifeguard? No swimming. Details: Reopened on Memorial Day weekend at 18627 Cull Canyon Road, Castro Valley, but check for COVID-related updates and hours at www.ebparks.org/ cull_canyon. (See Contra Loma above for capacity details.)

D O N CA S T R O S W I M L AG O O N

Located between Hayward and Castro Valley, the clear blue waters of the Don Castro Swim lagoon are tucked inside the Don Castro Regional Park, a 101-acre urban oasis. If you’re hiking along the shore before your dip, you may spot turtles and frogs splashing in the water or deer coming to drink at sunset. Like the other East Bay Regional Park lagoons, the water here is chlorinated and filtered, making it safe for swimming. The large shallow area is roped off especially for children. Details: Reopened on Memorial Day weekend at 22400 Woodroe Ave., Hayward, but check for COVID-related updates and hours at www.ebparks.org/ don_castro

G R E AT WO L F LO D G E , M A N T E CA

Looking for a place to splash, then crash? Great Wolf Lodge is opening its new 500-room family resort in Manteca on June 29 with a nearly 95,000-square-foot indoor waterpark. Heated to a balmy 84 degrees, it features a dizzying variety of twisting body slides, multi-person raft rides, activity pools and splash areas for every member of the family. Sequoia Splash swishes into a 360-degree loop. The Fort Mackenzie, a massive water play structure, has a 1,000-gallon tipping bucket. And Wolf Tail, a thrill-seeker’s delight, hurls you into a nearly vertical, 20-foot free fall. Open to registered overnight guests only; www.greatwolf.com/ northern-california. Visitors flock to the swim lagoon at Contra Loma Regional Park to cool off in Antioch in 2018.

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Dive into some great water music for your poolside play

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B Y J I M H A R R I N G TO N

rom Simon & Garfunkel’s “Bridge Over Troubled Water” to Adele’s “Water Under the Bridge,” H2O has long caught the attention of popular songwriters and musicians. The reasons, of course, are elemental. We need water to survive, thus it’s a great lyrical metaphor for all kinds of things we can’t do without — especially love. It also invokes such vivid imagery, leading artists to set their songs at beaches, rivers and lakes. And the topic can translate to a near-limitless amount of cool play lists — including our own, presented below. We tried to mix things up here, touching on a variety of watery themes and including many different genres, with the end goal being something you’d want to crank up on a road trip to the lake or beach or maybe just an afternoon spent at the backyard pool. So enjoy the tunes, which we’ll list chronologically because it gives us (yet another) excuse to start things off with one of our all-time favorite bands. “ S U R F E R G I R L” (1 96 3 )

“ N I G H T S W I M M I N G” (1 992)

Let Brian Wilson and the Beach Boys get the ball rolling on a tender note, as you soak up one of the most gorgeous pop ballads ever recorded.

R.E.M. is at the height of its substantial powers on this devastatingly beautiful remembrance of youthful days gone by, using the act of “nightswimming” as a way to mourn all the things that go away and are “replaced by everyday.”

“( S I T T I N ’ O N ) T H E D O C K O F T H E BAY ” (1 96 968) 8)

As legend has it, Otis Redding began penning this memorable chart topper while staying on a houseboat in Sausalito during the fabled Summer of Love. “ R O C K AWAY B E AC H ” (1 9 977 7)

The song is written about the Rockaway Beach in Queens, not the one in San Mateo County. But Bay Area fans won’t hold that against the mighty Ramones, who scored the highest charting song of their career with this fun number that stretched just over 2 minutes. “ T H E T I D E I S H I G H ” (1 980)

Debbie Harry and her fellow New Wave titans in Blondie hit No. 1 on the Billboard Hot 100 for their third time with this reggae-pop number, which was a cover of a 1967 recording by the Jamaican group the Paragons. “ N OV E M B E R R A I N ” (1 9 91 )

Every playlist should include some TLC, right? So, we will,with this R&B smash hit from “CrazySexyCool,” the second album from Tionne “T-Boz” Watkins, Lisa “Left Eye” Lopes and Rozonda “Chilli” Thomas. “ S W I M M I N G P O O L” ( 2008)

Vocalist Blake Hazard sounds conflicted in this softly romantic offering from L.A. indie-rock act the Submarines’ second fulllength album, “Honeysuckle Weeks.” On the one hand, she sings that “heavy is the mind that can’t be told when it’s time to let it go.” On the other? “But when you kiss me in ways I’ve forgotten, love is a swimming pool with no bottom.” “O C E A N E Y E S ” ( 201 6 )

This was the song that really got the ball rolling for Billie Eilish — after she and brother Finneas O’Connell uploaded the song to the internet and it quickly went viral. The rest is history, as Eilish has gone on to become one of the biggest stars in all of pop music. Still one of Eilish’s best numbers, “Ocean Eyes” serves as a dreamy cool closer for our H2O playlist.

GETTY IMAGES

Sure, this Guns N’ Roses classic might not scream “summer fun,” especially once Axl Rose starts talking about the (brrrr!) “cold November Rain.” But things heat up substantially once Slash arrives with nothing short of some of the most mesmerizing guitar work in rock ‘n’ roll history.

“ WAT E R FA L L S ” (1 99 994) 4)

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Golden Gate Park has 10 serene lakes, each with an allure of its own

S TO RY B Y A N G E L A H I L L

PHOTOS BY K ARL MONDON

y now, drought distress has likely set in, and we find ourselves parched for water in any form, drawn to it like human divining rods. Yes, yes, we have the Pacific Ocean and the San Francisco Bay, and those count, for sure. Yet one place to hunt for H2O that might not immediately come to mind is Golden Gate Park. This precious park is well loved for its world-class museums, botanical gardens and swaths of places to picnic and play. But it’s also the ultimate desert oasis: a three-mile, 1,000-plus acre greenbelt of forests and meadows that triumphed over a once-barren, wind-pummeled section of sand dunes, originally called the Outside Lands. And what’s an oasis without water features? Human-made lakes — 10 of them, give or take, depending on whether you consider a pond a lake — are sprinkled throughout. And while you can’t swim in these lakes and/or ponds, you can boat on at least one (two, if you count sailing miniature yachts as boating), and there’s no limit to skipping rocks, enjoying the serenity or watching ducks dive for snacks. Each spot has its own personality, and there’s even some mystery involved ... TA K I N G A TO U R

On a recent sunny morning, I embarked on an aquatic adventure to find all the lakes, beginning at 46 SPLASH

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Huntington Falls serves as a backdrop for a graduation portrait at Stow Lake in Golden Gate Park in San Francisco.

the most mysterious water body in the park — Lloyd Lake, set in the middle of the park along John F. Kennedy Drive at 23rd Avenue. Its distinguishing feature stands across the pool of emerald liquid — a white marble portico with six lean columns dubbed the “Portals of the Past.” It was originally the front entrance to an elegant Nob Hill mansion that was completely destroyed — all but this portico — in the 1906 quake. Placed here in 1909, the portal stands as an eerie memorial to the disaster. But that’s not all. Some believe the spot possesses paranormal properties, as it was once visited by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, a known spiritualist, and folks over the decades have sworn they’ve seen ghostly apparitions. The site was mentioned in Hitchcock’s “Vertigo” as the place that mesmerized the mysterious Madeleine. On this sunny day, it didn’t seem too eerie, though, surrounded by blooming nasturtiums and ceanothus, ducks snoozing on the banks and a woman sitting on a bench, petting a ball of fluff. But add some fog, and it would be another story. Also, if you’ve ever read any Harry Potter, you might recall The Veil in “The Order of the Phoenix.” I decided against climbing through the portal, just to be safe. Continuing farther west in the park along JFK Drive, past the bison paddock, is the sweet sight of Spreckels Lake, named for sugar magnate and former park commissioner Adolph B. Spreckels. This lake has a completely different personality from Lloyd’s. It’s more open, encircled by a sidewalk that’s always busy with pedestrians, kids and dogs walking their

guardians. There’s usually an Annie’s Hot Dogs stand — mmm, kraut and mustard dogs, water and sodas and big soft pretzels. Gulls like this lake a lot. Probably for the stray pretzel crumbs. You’ll notice orange cones positioned in the rippling water. That’s because this lake is home to the San Francisco Model Yacht Club, established in 1898. (They have a fleet of loaner radio-controlled sailboats for public use, but check for current pandemic restrictions.)

A sycamore tree grows in Mallard Lake in Golden Gate Park.

HIDDEN GEMS

A little further west and a right turn along Chain of Lakes Drive, just before you end up in the real world on Fulton Street, is the first in said chain — the North Lake. I know I’ve passed right by here and never noticed it before. It’s nearly hidden behind the oaks and pines and reeds poking from the water, but it may be my new favorite. Though manmade, all three lakes in this chain are wilder than Spreckels and Lloyd — not rimmed by a concrete edge, but looking as though they’ve always been here. Squirrels — a little too used to humans, apparently — are unmoved by passersby. Birds chirp. Tree branches dip into the drink. There’s a scent of licorice from some kind of vegetation. Benches are placed along the encircling path to view glimmers of sparkling water. Backtracking the route along Chain of Lakes Drive and across JFK are the aptly named Middle Lake and South Lake, near the Bercut Equitation Field (it’s a horse thing). Middle is scheduled for restoration this summer. And South, very close to Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, has a long granite bench. On one side, the marker honors Fidelia Jewett (1851-1933), a longtime public school teacher in San Francisco. Her partner, Stanford psychologist Lillien Jane Martin (1851-1943), is named on the other side with the inscription “Guide the Child, Salvage the Old.” Bonus lake: OK, not really a lake, but there’s water BAY AREA NEWS GROUP

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Above: Chicks are fed lunch in a nest under the eaves of the Portals of the Past structure at Lloyd Lake in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park. Right: Boaters paddle under the stone bridge at Stow Lake.

involved. Head back around to JFK again and proceed east, and you’ll find the Angler’s Lodge and Casting Pools, home to the Golden Gate Angling and Casting Club with members from around the globe. From the small parking area, take the stone steps up to the three huge, turquoise-hued fly-casting pools that sit in front of a log-style cabin surrounded by pines, and you’ll feel as though you’ve just emerged in a Sierra landscape. Anglers rhythmically fling out their lines toward markers in the water. Be sure to peek inside the lodge, with its knotty-pine paneling, stone fireplace, fish trophies and library about all things fishy. L A K E S L E S S T R AV E L E D

Make your way around to Elk Glen Lake at the intersection of 25th Ave and MLK. The nearby streets are busy traffic-wise, but the lakeside path is uncrowded, as it’s off the beaten tourist path. It’s also off the elk path, as there are none to be seen here these days. This lake has a little sandy beach area where, on this day, a couple has set up camp chairs beneath the drapery of willow trees. A small boy throws rocks and ripples the green water. Across the lake is a bit of urban flair — a rusty piece of chain-link fence and some graffiti on a pump station — so you don’t get too lost in the wilderness. Not far down MLK, you’ll find Mallard Lake in a charming, shady glen — traffic noise from Lincoln Way blocked by a steep hillside. Calla lilies and yellow iris dot the water’s edge, and there’s a little island in the middle of the lake with tall, ivy-covered trees. Today, there’s no one here. I have it all to myself, and I take a seat on a felled tree trunk beneath redwoods and buckeye trees. True to its name, mallard ducks seem to favor this spot. And some times of year you’ll see egrets and blue herons. There’s an eerie feeling here too — like the Creature from the Black Lagoon might surface at any moment. Metson Lake is another hidden jewel. It’s found along Middle Drive just south of Speedway Meadow and the Polo Field. It, too, is off the beaten path, one of the park’s quietest lake areas with looming cypress trees and reeds popping up along the shore. Once you cross over Crossover Drive (a.k.a. Park 48 SPLASH

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Presidio) toward the eastern and more tourist-luring side of Golden Gate Park with its museums and more, you’ll quickly notice more and more cars lining the roadway. But take Stow Lake Drive off MLK to the left and you’ll circle around to, yes, Stow Lake. (Access from JFK Drive is limited). Most locals are in the know about Stow, the largest and arguably most-loved body of water in the park, with its historic boathouse and café. You can rent rowboats, electric boats and pedal boats ($24 to $40.50 an hour) and drift — or paddle vigorously like a speeding duck — in a circle around the center island. Paddle beneath the double-arched stone bridge erected in 1893 and looking like it was stolen from Ireland, then alongside the Chinese pagoda (a gift from San Francisco’s sister city of Taipei), the splashing Huntington Waterfalls and Strawberry Hill. The route takes about an hour at a gentle pace. Then stop at the café, currently open for takeout of hot dogs, panini and salads. There’s also a ghost story here: A sad tale of a mother who walks the banks looking for her toddler who drowned in the early 20th century. She’s known as The White Lady. The last of the 10 lakes — give or take — is Alvord Lake, found on the far eastern side of the park at 501 Stanyan St., not far from Sharon Meadow. It’s small but sweet, surrounded by ferns and reeds. The path along the lake leads to Alvord Bridge — said to be the first structure of its kind to be built with iron-reinforced concrete in 1889. Beneath the bridge is a cavernlike pedestrian tunnel, its ceiling decorated with artificial stalactites. Another bonus: Lily Pond, just a short stroll from the Conservatory of Flowers. Some say it deserves status as a lake more than the smaller Alvord Lake, but there you go. It’s yet another hidden, watery gem.

Above: A boater from the San Francisco Model Yacht Club in Golden Gate Park wheels his entry for races at Spreckels Lake last month. Left: Hikers walk past the Portals of the Past structure on the shore of Lloyd Lake.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE LAKES OF GOLDEN GATE PARK, VISIT HTTPS://GOLDENGATEPARK.COM/GOLDEN-GATEPARK-LAKES.HTML.

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Lovely lakeside settings make your picnics pretty special B Y L I N DA Z AVO R A L

No time to drive to the Pacific, the Delta or Tahoe? All you need for a scenic waterfront meal is a nearby lake or reservoir with picnic tables or grassy seating. And there are options tucked into even the most urban Bay Area settings. Here are five lovely ones: SA N DY WO O L L A K E , E D L E V I N C O U N T Y PA R K , M I L P I TA S Take commuter-heavy Calaveras Boulevard east from 680 and keep heading in that direction until the road narrows and winds around to this sweet spot. This small, scenic lake (named after a longtime rancher and county supervisor) and its environs (the park encompasses 1,550 acres) offer nature trails, bird watching, trout fishing from November to May — and picnic tables. Enjoy your respite, then check out the view from the other side of the lake, especially toward dusk, when the setting sun casts stunning shadows on the East Bay hills. Bonus: There’s an off-leash dog park not far from the picnic grounds. Details: Open year-round from 8 a.m. to sunset. From Calaveras, turn left on Downing Road to reach Sandy Wool Lake. 3100 Calaveras Road, Milpitas; www. sccgov.org/sites/parks

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L A FAY E T T E R E S E R VO I R, L A FAY E T T E You’ve seen those photos of celebrities’ chic vacation spots. Very exclusive. Here, you can get that feeling — with a right-on-the-water view – if you set up your feast at one of the picnic tables situated on small docks that jut out into the reservoir. (Although, truth be told, you might be sharing your space with a few recreational fishers.) Want a view of the whole 126-acre reservoir? The unpaved Rim Trail is challenging, hikers say, but rewarding. Bonus: Families will find a children’s playground on the east lawn. Details: Open from 6 a.m. until 8 or 9 p.m., depending on the month. 3849 Mt. Diablo Road, Lafayette; www.ebmud.com/ recreation

SHORELINE LAKE, M O U N TA I N V I E W

Smack in the middle of urban Silicon Valley is Shoreline Lake,

Above: Mason Konrad, Bjorn Norgren and John Brittanghan get things ready for a Saint Mary’s Fishing Club picnic at the Lafayette Reservoir in Lafayette last month. NHAT V. MEYER/STAFF

Left: Silvia Maione, Inge Infante and Joy Calaoagan, from left, enjoy an afternoon at Shoreline Lake in Mountain View. ANDA CHU/STAFF

50 saltwater acres where you can enjoy a chicken-and-brie panini and a passionfruit panna cotta while watching the windsurfers, kayakers and maybe a paddle-board yoga practitioner. Dine lakeside at Shoreline’s chef-driven cafe, the American Bistro, or bring a picnic and grab a table or grassy spot nearby. You can even rent a paddleboat, order from the cafe and head out on the water for your alfresco meal. Bonus: A popular Kite Flying Park is situated near the entrance, and fans say the wind is just right at this spot to achieve lift. It’s a BYOK affair. Details: The boathouse is open from 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. weekdays and 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. weekends. The bistro has more limited hours, serving from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday-Friday and 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. weekends. 3160 N. Shoreline Blvd., Mountain View. www.shorelinelake.com

S H A D OW C L I F F S L A K E , P L E A SA N TO N

Decades ago, this former gravel quarry, like so many others, was turned into recreational fun — 266 acres’ worth, including the 80-acre lake, just a mile from downtown Pleasanton. After enjoying your picnic, consider buying a day permit to go fishing. The lake is stocked weekly with trout and catfish, and there’s an

Above: The lake at Almaden Lake Park in San Jose.

accessible fishing pier. Beach wheelchairs are also available for traversing the sand.

RANDY VAZQUEZ/ STAFF

Bonus: Solar panels in the parking lot provide much-needed shade for cars while also generating energy for the park. Arrive early to nab one of these spaces. Details: Open from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. through Labor Day. 2500 Stanley Blvd., Pleasanton. www.ebparks.org/parks/ shadow_cliffs/

Bottom left: Boaters explore Shoreline Lake in Mountain View in May. ANDA CHU/STAFF

A L M A D E N L A K E PA R K , SA N J O S E

Hear that honking? It’s not coming from cars but from the flocks of geese that make this nature area their home. After lunching at one of the many picnic areas surrounding this 32-acre lake, take some time to walk the perimeter and check out the adorable goslings and ducklings and their small human fans. The west side of this park is a protected wildlife sanctuary, but we found the birds hanging out at the water’s edge on the east. Bonus: If you’ve gotten rusty with that bocce set just sitting in the garage, haul it out and head for the courts here. Details: Open from 8 a.m. to one hour after sunset. 6099 Winfield Blvd, San Jose. Picnic reservations: www.sanjoseca. gov

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Women are wading into fly fishing and reaping rich rewards B Y J OA N M O R R I S

t’s not about the fish. It’s not even about the beautiful, peaceful surroundings of a swiftly running river. At least not entirely. For 64-year-old Janice Azebu, of Lafayette, it’s about the challenge. “I used to spin cast,” Azebu says, “but fly fishing is a wonderful new challenge. Knowing the river, picking the right fly, casting the line just right. For me, it’s the challenge of all those things.” Azebu, a physician and medical director for Kaiser East Bay Hospice, is a relative newcomer to fly fishing, but she’s part of a growing number of women attracted to the sport.

Q A

So how did you start fly fishing?

Q A

What other challenges are there?

I did spin casting for 30-40 years. It was just a nice pastime. You go to some beautiful areas. I always say fish don’t live in ugly settings. I happened to teach my next-door neighbor how to fish, and then he turned around and learned to fly fish. He took me out and gave me some early lessons. I liked it right away. It’s really fun. It’s not just about catching fish or catching the biggest one. There’s something about it, the challenge of casting. It’s really difficult to do it with a (long) line, so when you first start out, you start with a shorter line, but you’re learning a technique to be able to cast further out.

You have to understand the river and what the fish are eating. There are a lot of flies — well, they aren’t all flies. That term pertains to all sorts of things that mimic fishes’ natural diet. There is a whole range of insects that fish eat: grasshoppers, stone flies, the larva of mayflies.. You gradually learn, but because of my work schedule, I wasn’t able to go very often, and every time I

did, I felt like a beginner having to learn everything over again. I’ve gotten better with repetition. It’s something I really love and hope to do more when I retire in June.

Q A

How common is it to see women involved in fly fishing?

Q A

What other aspects of fly fishing make it appealing to you?

It’s become so popular that now companies are producing clothing for women. We don’t have to buy men’s waders any more. There also are a lot of women’s fly fishing clubs, and it’s a little less intimidating for women to get into the sport by joining a club. Many of the instructors say that women are better students of fly fishing because we’re listening to what the teacher is saying, not trying to muscle the rod.

It’s special, standing in a river in a beautiful setting. There are not a lot of people. You can hear your own thoughts. Fly fisher people tend not to like to fish around other people, so you’re in more quiet, private waters.

Q A

Can anyone learn?

You don’t need special talent. Pretty much anyone can do the sport. If you’re able to hold the rod and move your arm, you can learn it. I’m sure anyone can fish, even from a wheelchair.

Q A

What are some of your favorite spots to fish?

Northern California has wonderful rivers full of fish. I like the Redding, McCloud, Fall, Sacramento and Trinity rivers. Recently, I’ve started going up to Idaho to Henry’s Fork. You can fish on lakes from the bank, but it’s more difficult because of the trees and bushes that are behind you. For your fly to go forward, it has to go an equal distance behind you. Standing in a river allows you to do that without getting tangled. I like fishing on moving water. I like to fish for trout, especially steelhead.

5 F LY F I S H I N G C L U B S • Golden West Women Flyfishers, San Francisco, www.gwwf.org • Bay Area Fly Fishers, Oakland, www.bayareaflyfishers.org • Flycasters Inc. of San Jose, Cambell, www.flycasters.org • Tri-Valley Fly Fishers, Livermore, tri-valleyflyfishers.org • Peninsula Fly Fishers, Belmont, www.peninsulaflyfishers.org • Find more California clubs at Flycaster.com, www.flycaster.com/clubs/alifornia3.html

Janice Azebu practices her fly rod casting at the Leona Casting Pools in McCrea Memorial Park in Oakland

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ARIC CRABB/STAFF

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Kayaking Corkscrew Slough

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A wet-behind-the-ears newbie paddles his way up the bay

Top: A cormorant takes flight in the marshes of Corkscrew Slough. Above: Shorebirds stroll the muddy banks. Left: Jim Harrington makes his way through the still waters of the slough on a kayak.

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T PHOTOS BY KARL MONDON

he freighter couldn’t be that impossibly big. Could it? It must just be my perspective, I thought, sitting out here alone in a kayak in the middle of the water. As I paddled in to get a closer look at the ship, the Honourable Henry Jackman seemed to grow ever more towering, a floating mountain of metal that, fortunately for me, was docked at the time. I thought about going closer, close enough to touch it, but common sense and sheer intimidation quickly came into play, and I skedaddled, paddled away. I can only imagine how the fish feel. I’ve spent my whole life near San Francisco Bay. But the amount of time that I’ve actually spent out on the water has been minimal — a few ferry rides, a dinner cruise or two, a trip to Alcatraz and back in grade school. That’s it. I like to blame my yacht-less friends, who have been Above: A curious seal eyes newcomers to Corkscrew Slough. Right: Jim Harrington gets paddling instructions from Devin Sapp of California Canoes and Kayaks before taking to the bay waters in Redwood City.

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Above: Dwarfed by the hulking Honourable Henry Jackman bulk carrier ship, Jim Harrington paddles past the port in Redwood City. 60 SPLASH

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amazingly inconsiderate over the decades and never bought fancy sailboats to take me out on the water. The real reason, of course, is that I’d never explored some relatively inexpensive ways to explore this area’s most famous feature. Turns out it’s pretty easy to do, especially if you like to paddle. Several Bay Area outfitters rent kayaks and other H2O-friendly vessels, from San Francisco’s City Kayak to Sausalito’s Sea Trek, Alameda’s Stacked Adventures and more — and many offer not just equipment rentals, but classes and tours as well. After chatting with California Canoe and Kayak manager Devin Sapp about my experience level — a handful of ocean, lake and river kayak outings — we hatched plans to embark from the Port of Redwood City. (The company also has locations at Oakland’s Jack London Square and Brooklyn Basin.) It was the crack of dawn, or the equivalent for this night owl, when — OK, it was 9 a.m. on Earth Day when I donned a lifejacket and boarded a bright red kayak, anxious to see the sights and commune with nature. Sapp had recommended an even earlier departure to avoid the choppiness and wind that often comes later in the morning and afternoon, but the water was still calm as I began the long paddle northeast, up Redwood Creek and toward the bay through sharply contrasting scenery. On the left — the south side of Redwood Creek — is beautiful Bair Island, a 3,000-acre marsh whose three islands compose California Department of Fish and Wildlife’s Bair Island Ecological Reserve. It’s filled with wildlife activity, which I hoped to experience later as I paddled the wetland sloughs. On the right, a long row of huge industrial complexes, including a massive metal recycling plant and a sand and gravel supplier, line the bank. Those sights aren’t going to make it onto any “explore the Bay Area” postcards, but they’re intriguing visually, especially when juxtaposed with the wetlands. It was there, on the industrial side, that I encountered the enormous docked freighters, the Honourable HJ among them, resting after a long journey, while goods were loaded and unloaded. I eventually reached the bay at the promisingly — and aptly — named Corkscrew Slough, which cuts through these islands. This, Sapp promised, is the best place to see wildlife — and it was, with birds everywhere. Using my great expertise in ornithology, I would describe them as “pretty,” “cool” and “just wow.” Truth is, you don’t need to know their names to enjoy the spectacle of birds grooming themselves on shore, diving for unsuspecting fish and soaring overhead — but if you’re a Bay Area birdwatcher, this is heaven. The best reason for paddling down twisty Corkscrew Slough, though, is its reputation as a major hangout for harbor seals who haul themselves out to sunbathe on the muddy shore. I wasn’t sure I was on the right track, however, as I’d spent quite some time paddling around without seeing any seals. Thankfully, one of them found me, its head popping part way out of the water and staring at me

I F YO U G O California Canoe and Kayak: Hourly rental rates run $25 to $60, depending on the type of craft. The company also rents stand-up paddle boards ($25) and offers tours and classes, including an introductory kayaking class ($89 and up). Hours vary by location and COVID restrictions, but the Port of Redwood City location at 487 Seaport Court is typically open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday. (It’s best to go early in the day, since afternoons can get windy.) Find more details at www.calkayak.com. Stacked Adventures: This Alameda outfitter offers private tours and rentals of kayaks ($30-$50 per hour), camping and backpacking equipment by appointment only. Home base is at Alameda’s Encinal Boat Ramp at 190 Central Ave., but other drop-off and pick-up locations are available. Find details at www.stackedadventures.com. Sea Trek: This Sausalito company rents single and double kayaks ($25-$40 per hour), as well as stand-up paddle boards ($25), with reservations available from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday-Tuesday and 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. WednesdaySunday. (Reservations before 1 p.m. are recommended for first-time paddlers and SUP.) Sea Trek also offers kayak, SUP and yoga SUP classes. You’ll find the outfitter at 2100 Bridgeway near the Bay Model in Sausalito; www.seatrek. com. City Kayak: San Francisco’s City Kayak offers kayak ($35$125 per hour) and SUP rentals ($35), classes and special tours, including a South Beach kayak tour and a McCovey Cove Evening Experience on game nights. Normally open for check-in from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Friday-Monday at Pier 40; citykayak.com.

with piercing eyes. The seal seemed perplexed, as if wondering what in the world this guy in a red kayak was doing invading his private spot. “Mr. Seal,” I said, making the assumption that it was a male, because his perplexed look so resembled my own frequent expression, “I just wanted to say hi. Now I have, and I can start paddling back.” The long, slow paddle back to the dock included occasional stops to rest a bit and take in the soothing, peaceful vibes — and to wish I’d had the foresight to bring a snack, like a medium pepperoni pizza. Paddling is make-hungry work. The promise of eateries on shore was both comfort and motivation to paddle faster. All told, I was out on the water for about three hours, and my arms, which had gone many months since my last, far less physically taxing kayaking trip on Lake Tahoe, felt every minute of this adventure. My shoulders were aching as I retraced my journey, paddling against both the wind and the tide. Although truth be told, it might have been neither ... I’m a rookie, unused to kayaking in the bay. Yet, anyway. After this trip, I intend to become a regular. See you on the water.

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Oakland resident Dave Edlund claims to have nabbed 42 balls over the years from kayaking in McCovey Cove during Giants games.

BOBBING

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McCovey Cove kayakers compete for the water-bound home runs

hen Devon Errington picked Mother’s Day to make her maiden voyage into McCovey Cove during a Giants game, she arrived with one simple goal: Get on TV while flashing a homemade sign that proclaimed her love for dear mom. Never did the San Carlos resident expect a home run ball to come her way. But, OMG, there it was: high in the clear-blue sky above Oracle Park and speeding downward like a missile. … Right. At. Her. BAM! The ball, swatted by Jake Cronenworth of the San Diego Padres, smacked off the nose of her kayak and splashed into the emerald waters just a few feet away. Errington, rocking her Giants jersey, barely had to stretch to pluck it from the cove and proudly hold it 62 SPLASH

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S TO R Y B Y CHUCK BA R N E Y PHOTOS BY ARIC CRABB

aloft in ultimate triumph. “I can’t believe it!” she exclaimed to other boaters in the vicinity. “It’s beginner’s luck, I guess.” Among the first to congratulate her was Dave Edlund, who has fished more baseballs out of McCovey Cove than anyone. Was he bummed that Errington beat him out for this one? “I’m very proud and happy for her,” he gushed. “I come to the cove with a big heart.” Since 2000, when the Giants moved into their ballpark palace by the bay, people have come in droves to the small body of water named in honor of beloved franchise legend Willie McCovey. Some turn out simply to enjoy a floating party, be part of the scene or cop some TV time during games. Others, like Edlund, are regulars, seriously intent on tracking down soggy baseballs or “splash hits.”

IF YOU GO You don’t have to be a fanatical ball hawk to enjoy the vibe of McCovey Cove during Giants games. Many first-timers rent kayaks from retailers like Ted Choi’s City Kayak, a 15-minute paddle away. Choi, who has run the business for 17 years, offers some tips: • Start early and “come back in before it gets too windy.” He says winds regularly kick up in the area around 2 or 3 p.m. • Bring sun screen. “Many people never think about that when it’s kind of chilly early in the day,” Choi says. “But later on, it can get baking hot.” • Bring a radio to listen to the game as you float, but consider encasing it in a water-proof container.

Known by fans and on social media as “McCovey Cove Dave,” the retired Oakland resident claims to have nabbed 42 balls over the years. That would make him the Barry Bonds of his craft. No one else has more than 10. Why is he so dang good? Anticipation for one. He fanatically studies players’ tendencies like a scout and positions himself in the water like an outfielder, all while listening to the radio play-by-play. Oh, and he’s a super-fast kayak paddler. “I estimate that I get to the ball (before others) 70 percent of the time,” he boasts. “I love the thrill of the chase.” And Edlund, 65, isn’t above

abandoning his watercraft to get what he wants. During a game last July, he nabbed two home run balls clubbed by Giants outfielder Mike Yastrzemski — the second sent him plunging into the cove to secure his prize. Footage of his feat wound up on ESPN as the cable network’s “Play of the Day.” Mark Busch, a friend and rival of Edlund, attends nearly 20 games a year. He claims “you have to be a certain kind of weirdo” to do what they do. “I’m the only normal guy in the cove,” he says with a laugh. “All these other guys have issues.” Busch, a San Jose resident, actually owns Giants season tickets,

Devon Errington celebrates a home run ball she recovered from McCovey Cove during a San Francisco Giants game on Mother’s Day.

but prefers to be out in the cove. “The view of the bay you get from a kayak or boat is amazing,” he says. “It’s so much fun. And to see that ball drop from the sky — it’s a feeling you just can’t explain.” Edlund agrees.. “It’s free. You don’t need a ticket,” he says. “So it’s a really cheap date. And the vibe in the cove is friendly and communal.” Indeed, cove veterans have been known to come to the aid of drunken fans who tumble into the drink. And they’ll occasionally hand over baseballs snared during batting practice to the party-boat folks in exchange for a beer or a hamburger.

But once a home run ball splashes down, all bets are off. “Sometimes there’s a big battle,” says Edlund. “There’s whitewater everywhere.” Edlund, who has achieved quasi-celebrity status during his years patrolling McCovey Cove, loves to play up the theatrical aspect of the skirmish, referring to his rival ball hawks as “the bad guys” or “piranhas.” He revels in the cheers from fans along the waterfront promenade. And he takes sinister delight in the fact that other kayakers have adopted a concessionary mantra when they’re plotting their sea-faring strategy: “Go when Dave’s not there.” “Dave has spanked me many times,” Busch admits with an air of resignation. “But he makes it fun and exciting, and I credit him for bringing people out to the cove to experience it.” As for his future McCovey Cove endeavors, Edlund thinks like an athlete. He knows he’s getting older, and his reflexes aren’t what they used to be. And he realizes that someday, he’ll be supplanted as king of the cove. Still, he hopes to run up his “games played” total for another 10 years or so. And what does he plan to do with all those baseballs? “It sounds crazy, but I’m taking them with me,” he says. “I want them in my casket.” BAY AREA NEWS GROUP

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Storied riders of the perfect waves built the Bay Area’s rich trove of surfing lore BY E L L I OT T A L M O N D

Rosemari Reimers Rice holds her Wedding Board, the one on which she married legendary surfboard shaper, the late Johnny Rice, back in 1989. One of the Bay Area’s pioneer women surfers, Rice, 82, still lives in the home they shared together down the street from famed surf spot Steamer Lane. KARL MONDON/STAFF

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Nothing spoils a surf session quite like facing the doublebarrel of a shotgun. It happened many, many moons ago, when I lived in a wooden water tower in Capitola-by-the-Sea where my friends and I often headed north in a single-minded pursuit of waves. Without the luxury of wave-forecasting apps, surfers back then relied on oceanographic instincts to find the best conditions. Stanford alumnus Ricky Grigg, a famous big-wave rider and University of Hawaii scientist who died in 2014, once told me surfers were some of the best oceanographers he knew. We’d squint at the horizon, gauge wind direction, read tide charts and monitor the lines of wavelets as they marched toward shore like a chorus line. We weighed the topography and the bathymetry, the depth of ocean floors, to calculate where to go. My friend had done the homework one evening, so we zoomed along Highway 1 from Santa Cruz to the pasturelands. We pulled onto a dirt road past Wilder Ranch and gazed out at a green carpet of fernlike artichokes. It’s a private ranch, I protested. No one ever is around, the friend countered. We crossed the farmer’s narrow artery to a secret cove on the other side of a fence that we had to scale. Sandstone sea cliffs kept evening gales at bay as army-green waves plunged over the rockribbed reef. We slid down the clean-shaven face of wave after wave while octopuslike tentacles of kelp danced below us. We surfed until the orange ball melted into the horizon, casting deep, dark shadows in the cove. I felt a slight chill in the air and a sense of exuberance while wrangling out of the skin-clinging O’Neill wetsuit. We grabbed our belongings and were retracing the

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One summer in the early 1970s, author Elliott Almond lived in a water tower in Capitola-by-the-Sea. Almond, left, was getting ready for a paddle out with his friend, the former Don Carroll, a well-known Santa Cruz surfer and mountain biker. COURTESY OF MARIE CRUZ

footsteps over the fence, when an angry farmer materialized, clutching a shotgun. He had us trapped. The gun remained firmly pointed at us while we got a tongue lashing about trespassing. We promised never again to set foot on the property, but the three of us knew better. Surfers endlessly search for the next fix. The irate rancher must have known we’d return if the cove had promising waves in the future. As a warning shot, his farmhands had taken care of our car. We had to yank it out of a ditch.

Alaska has dog mushing. Colorado has pack burro racing. California’s official state sport is surfing, codified in 2018 by thenGov. Jerry Brown. The Golden State’s 840 miles of coastline

feature world-class breaks where a million or so people compete for waves atop everything from standup paddleboards to surf kayaks, kite surfboards and Boogie boards. “Sometimes at Linda Mar, it looks like an aquatic version of the Demolition Derby,” said lifelong surfer Roy Earnst, 67, describing his home beach in Pacifica. This explosion of popularity found its roots in post-war Southern California, which became the staging ground for a blossoming surf industry. Southlanders manufactured a lifestyle through fashion (Walter and Flippy Hoffman’s floral print designs), music (Dick Dale, the King of Surf Guitar) and film (Bruce Brown’s “The Endless Summer”). SoCal also bred innovation: Caltech mathematician Bob Simmons applied hydrodynamic lift theory to surfboard design, and Hobie Alter and Gordon Clark

used polyurethane foam and fiberglass to produce lightweight wave-riding vehicles. “Being in California, the first thing you think about is surfing,” said Kanoa Igarashi, No. 4 in the world heading into the Tokyo Games this summer as the sport makes its Olympic debut. Igarashi, 22, grew up in Huntington Beach but credited the times his father took him to San Francisco to gain big-wave experience below the Cliff House at Kelly’s Cove.

The Bay Area scene is antithetical to the Southern California world that cultivated mythology with its perpetual sunshine and proximity to Hollywood. First of all, NorCal surfers are not perfecting a tan under their neoprene wetsuits. Then there is the rawness of the land. Our cliff-hugging coast and redwood-topped mountains give the frosty winter waves a feeling of wildness that reaches into surfing’s soul. I wanted to explore the inner

Surfing pioneer Rosemari Reimers Rice gets a kick out of this image of herself surfing in 1962. The photo hangs in the workshop of her late husband, surfboard shaper Johnny Rice. KARL MONDON/STAFF

sanctum with some of the parishioners who never stopped feeling the Pacific’s pulse. That led to Carmel Valley in the lush outback of Monterey County. Gene Van Dyke was waiting in deep blue floral board shorts and flip-flops. Did we mention he’s 90? Van Dyke is the fraying thread of Bay Area surf culture who began riding waves in Santa Cruz in 1950, when he came down from San Francisco. Van Dyke said he slept in his ’37 Ford flatbed next to Cowell Beach, west of the

wharf, and collected abalones to trade for gas or sell to restaurants. Van Dyke took classes on Tuesdays and Thursdays at San Francisco State to allow for more time to surf in Santa Cruz. Van Dyke’s now-deceased brothers Fred and Peter joined him in the lineup and eventually made history by conquering the big waves of the North Shore of Oahu. The Van Dykes hobnobbed with Hawaiian royalty, including the father of modern-day surfing, Duke Kahanamoku.

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When Jack O’Neill drifted down the coast from San Francisco with his glued-together rubber wetsuit tops, the locals scoffed. “Hey Jack, how are you going to make any money? There are only 15 of us,” Van Dyke said. Van Dyke’s lifelong relationship with the ocean embodies the essence of surfing that Hollywood’s Gidget could never appreciate. Surfers harness ancient natural rhythms to dance on what amounts to scraps of energy from distant storms in the Gulf of Alaska or Sea of Japan, transformed into waves. This is the definition of bliss. “When surfing came along, I dropped everything,” Van Dyke said. “I wasn’t selfish, but all I wanted to do was surf. Surf, surf, surf.” When Van Dyke and his first wife, Betty Van Dyke, taught school in the Dominican Republic in the late 1950s, they surfed the Caribbean before others had even thought of it. They lived in a hotel with Argentina’s deposed president, Juan Peron. On one trip to Mexico City, Van Dyke said, his plane had to land in Havana because of a maintenance problem. Van Dyke arrived on Jan. 1, 1959, the day after the overthrow of President Fulgencio Batista. Van Dyke said he watched Fidel Castro, Che Guevara and Ernest Hemingway ride in a truck, firing rifles into the air. Then he went surfing. Van Dyke eventually stopped surfing at age 83, after returning to California from the Big Island in Hawaii. He tried his old stomping ground at the Hook at the end of Capitola’s 41st Avenue, but donning a wetsuit proved too cumbersome — he needed to visit a chiropractor, he said, every time he took it off. He gave away all his boards, keeping few mementos of the past, and now spends his days meditating, painting and playing electric guitar and bass. One of California’s ceiling-breaking women surfers, Rosemari Reimers Rice, 82, no longer bothers with wetsuits because of the hassle. She stopped surfing at age 70 after jumping over a beginner who got in her way on a crowded day at famed Santa Cruz break Steamer Lane, a five-minute walk from her house. The last time she paddled out was in 2016 to honor a surfing friend who had died. I met Reimers Rice on her porch one windy afternoon, with sea lions barking in the background. Reimers Rice, Earlyene Colfer and Betty Van Dyke, who died in April, were the vanguard of Northern California’s female surfers. Artifacts of surfing history can be found throughout Reimers Rice’s home where her late husband, Johnny Rice, shaped his custom boards in a shed out back. The couple married in 1989, decades after dating at Mira Costa High School in Hermosa Beach. The spring ceremony took place during a kayak festival at Cowell’s, with Reimers Rice paddling out on a new board Rice made as a wedding present, the bride in a white wetsuit borrowed from Jane McKenzie, a top Santa Cruz surfer in the 1970s. The couple’s pastor had no issue with the aquatic chapel. He surfed, too. Rice made his wife promise not to store away the board as a keepsake, and his bride was happy to oblige, because she wanted to surf more than almost

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Gene Van Dyke, the surviving member of the three famous Van Dyke surfing brothers of San Francisco, plays guitar at his home in Carmel Valley. Van Dyke, 90, is the fraying thread of California’s surf history. He was one of the first to tackle the breaks in Santa Cruz and later joined his brothers on Oahu’s North Shore, where Fred and Peter Van Dyke became famous big-wave riders. KARL MONDON/STAFF

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Earnest, the filmmaker of “Surfing for Life,” tries to Boogie board twice a week to fill his quota, but begrudgingly acknowledges any form of physical activity will do. These lifelong surfers spent hours with me trying to define what it means to ride waves. Reimers Rice finally gave up. “You really can’t explain it to anybody,” she said. “You have to go out and feel it.”

anything else. Colfer hung up her boards at age 75 because of bad knees, she said, but enjoyed her final session five years ago while attending a granddaughter’s wedding in Oahu. Earylene met her husband in 1957 when Jerry Colfer and Johnny Rice paddled out at the Hook to join the only two surfers in the water, both of them young women. Colfer, then 17, got smacked by Earlyene’s board after she fell. When the two teenage surfers resurfaced, it was Colfer who fell — in love, he would later recount. They were together for 63 years before Colfer died in January, and the sea was never far from their lives. Their three sons, their wives and grandchildren surf.

“ All of us revered the ocean like it is something holy.”

Gene Van Dyke, shown surfing in Santa Cruz in his early years, quit surfing seven years ago and gave his boards away to friends. Although he is one of California’s surfing pioneers, Van Dyke, now 90, has kept few mementos of his exploits, saying meditation keeps him in the present.

Earlyene Colfer

Great-granddaughter Aurora, 3, has started paddling, too. “All of us revered the ocean like it is something holy,” Earlyene said. The Bay Area pilgrims share so many fragments of surfing history. But it strikes me that they are the exemplar of something grander that all of us need as the days pass. Pacifica gerontologist Roy Earnest has tried to define this in psychological terms. He said many overburdened adults suffer from “nature-deficit disorder.” Earnest, who started riding waves in the early 1960s in New Jersey, said people need an elemental connection to nature. They also need to stay active because kinesthesia, or sensory experience, might be Ponce de Leon’s magical fountain of youth.

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Van Dyke is shown surfing on the Big Island at age 77.

COURTESY OF GENE VAN DYKE

The closest I’ve come to tiptoeing across nature’s sanctuary was president’s weekend in 1983 on a trip to Isla de Todos Santos, west of Ensenada, Mexico. A massive swell had slammed the West Coast, turning the voyage on a fishing trawler into a stomach-churning episode. The fishermen dropped us off on the wind-battered, barren rock where every reef fired. We surveyed thick walls of water rising 50 feet before thunderously spilling into the bay. The break is now called Killers, and it rivals Mavericks as one of North America’s heaviest waves. I picked a left-breaking wave on the other side of the islet. The groundswell wrapped around the cay and sent waves jacking up overhead. On the morning of our departure, I went out for a final dance. A wave as blue as the winter sky charged at me as I paddled furiously to intersect at its peak. I quickly swung around, took two strokes and stood. Instead of sliding across the shimmering face, I stuck a trailing finger in the wave to stall. The wave spun into a circular bowl. A tiny escape hatch down the face beckoned with a blinding white light. But I felt a dark force drag me back toward the jagged rocks. I slightly shifted my weight forward for propulsion as a curtain of water rained over me. The mouth of the tunnel opened. Bigger and bigger as the brightness bathed me with a celestial glow. I came out flying. Forever free.

A northwest swell woos surfers at Pacifica’s Rockaway Beach. KARL MONDON/STAFF BAY AREA NEWS GROUP

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At Home — Episode 2 6/24 Drawing Drawing Wildlife in Your Own Backyard

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