Tre e C a re A d v i s o r N ew s l e t t e r http:// www.mntca.org Inside This Issue:
American Beech - Fagus grandifolia
American Beech By Mike Zins
1
Quick Hits / Volunteer Opps By Dave Hanson
2
Putting Down Roots: By Cliff Johnson
Mike Zins American Beech – Fagus grandifolia
3
This native American tree is perhaps one of the more stately trees found in our
January, 2003
grass and other plants to
winged nut enclosed in a
grow under the canopy. In
prickly involucre which is
their native habitats, they can edible. Unfortunately, trees I easily grow to 100 feet tall
have observed at the Arbo-
and wide with huge trunks.
retum and locally tend to be
A specimen by Lake Minne-
loners and most nuts do not
tonka is perhaps 50 feet tall
develop viable seeds, proba-
with a trunk diameter of 2
bly due to poor pollination.
Frost Cracks
4
Agriculture Research: USDA, ARS Elm Disease
6
Trees and Medicine By Robert Adreucci
7 Great Lakes region and
Transplanting‌Part II By Gary Johnson
8 In its native range it is similar As much as one would like
eastern forests and landscapes. It is found growing from Nova Scotia to the
feet after 100 years.
south to Florida and Texas. to sugar maple in that it be-
Shade Tree Short Course Opportunity / Volunteer Hour Awards By Gary Johnson
15 comes a climax forest species, cohabiting with maple,
Working With Volunteers By Jane Klein
16
A Printable Letter By Ken Holman MN DNR
18
Contacts
Volume 10 Number 1
Dave Hanson and Gary Johnson, Managing Editors
oak and hickory.
Tree growth is similar to sugar maple in many respects. As young trees, they tend to have strong central 20 leaders and as they slowly
mature, they develop the
distinctive decurrent or multiple stemmed crown we often see in mature sugar maples. Mature trees with dense crowns cast heavy shade and make it difficult for
The largest tree in the Arboretum is about a foot in di-
to refer to this tree as a son- ameter and every 2-3 years of-a-beech, it probably is not produces lots of empty nuts. technically correct botani-
This lack of viable nuts is a
cally speaking. American
shame as they are a favorite
beech, like its relatives, are
food of many species of wild-
monoecious with male and
life.
female flowers found on the same tree. The male flowers
are in globose heads separate But even with this shortfall, the tree has other attributes from the female flowers which are in 2-4 flowered spikes. They flower with
making it a very desirable
addition to our landscapes.
emerging leaves in early May. The leaves are up to 5 inches long and 2 inches wide. They are coarsely serrated Following pollination, fertili-
and have a glossy dark green
zation takes place and the
upper leaf surface, lighter
resulting fruit is a three-
below.
Continued page 5
Page 2
Quick Hits If you have access to the web - check out the TCA website “www.mntca.org.” The pages have been reworked with new backgrounds and layouts. Comments and suggestions are welcome but keep in mind it is a work in progress.
Sandy McCartney is working up an Arbor Month Planting in Saint Louis Park to celebrate Tree Care Advisors. Gary pointed out that this is the 10th anniversary of the TCA program. No specific details at this time so we’ll let you know how this develops.
Woodland Advisors (WAs) and Tree Care Advisors (TCAs) gathered on January 18th for an update training and it was a smashing success. Sixty-four participants from 19 Minnesota counties took part. Our thanks to all participants. Thanks go to John Gerlach (U of M alumnus). John helped everybody get checked in. Some BIG THANK YOUS to food organizers Lorrie Stomme and Heide Ludwig a.k.a. “Betty Crocker.” And a final BIG THANK YOU to Eli Sagor, U of M Extension Educator, for participating and for bringing the Woodland Advisors.
The Shade Tree Short Course “Tree House of Horrors” was brought out of moth balls for the Green Expo and was well received by the MNLA and Turf-and-Grounds joint audience. The Shade Tree Short Course is just around the corner (March 25th and 26th). New This Year is the Tree School Projects are just around
Care Advisor Track, Brochures and information will be out soon.
the corner. A Thank You to Lynn Klessig from Elementary School Students. The Tree Care Advisor core course gets under way February 22nd and continues the four following Saturdays (March 1st, 8th, 15th, and 22nd). All TCAs are welcome to attend (depending on space), please check the website for a schedule or call Dave. Consider Mentoring a rookie by simply being available to answer questions, pull them along on volunteer activities or just share some wisdom - Give Dave a call 612-624-1226.
Arbor Day Volunteer Opportunity April 25th, 2003 10 am to 1 pm McDonald’s restaurant near you
and care of the seedlings.
acceptable.
Glen Hambleton, a TCA , is
You will be informed of what mate-
coordinating this activity for the
rials are to be provided to McDon-
KEEY program. Glen can be
ald’s customers in advance.
McDonalds and the Minnesota For-
reached by phone (generally Mon-
est Service Industry are collaborat-
day and Wednesday mornings from
ing in the distribution of 50,000
9 to 11) at 612-782-7377, by FAX
Norway Pine Tree seedlings. 180
at 612-782-7378 or by e-mail at
McDonald’s outlets are participat-
“glenh@keey.us .”
ing through out Minnesota and western Wisconsin. The KEEY program is seeking volunteers to assist in the distribution of tree seedlings and to answer questions people may have about the planting
Radio and TV publicity of this event is in the preparation stage. What an opportunity for TCA’s to get recognition for what they have to offer the public.
If you know the address of a McDonald’s at which you would prefer to volunteer your services, let Glen know what that is. Finding someone to share the time with by working in shifts or as a team is
Contact Glen Hambleton: Phone: 612-782-7377 Fax:
612-782-7378
e-mail: glenh@keey.us
Putting Down Roots - A column in the Chaska Herald. Late-winter
form by removing dead
being removed. Crown resto-
pruning best for
branches and by thinning large
ration refers to improving the
most trees and
branches to reduce weight and
structure of trees that have
shrubs
wind resistance. Proper prun-
sprouted vigorously following
ing also enables more light to
breakage or from being pruned
penetrate inner branches. Be-
with heading cuts (cuts made at
By Cliff Johnson, Carver County Tree Care Advisor
fore you reach for the saw, give 90-degree angle). Utility
I'm asked just about every
some thought to how much
pruning is done to restore
month of the year when is the
wood you plan to remove.
clearance under electrical
best time to prune. For most
Overpruning can be just as
power lines or other utility
trees and shrubs, February and
damaging as no pruning at all,
wires.
March are ideal months to
explains Dr. Patrick Weicherd-
prune for a number of reasons.
ing, University of Minnesota
When trees are pruned dur-
extension horticulturist. Over-
ing dormancy, research shows
pruning removes too many
that the remaining branches
leaves and, without enough
grow faster in spring because
leaves, a tree cannot gather and
energy stored in roots and
process sufficient sunlight to
branches can be channeled to
survive. Weicherding advises to
fewer growth points.
never remove more than one-
The absence of leaves allows
third of a tree's total mass.
Proper pruning cuts (figure 4) do not injure the branch bark ridge (the raised line of bark that forms between the branch and the trunk) or the branch collar (the living, swollen tissue
I've heard speakers describe the
so crossing branches and weak
pruning. Crown cleaning
branch collar and bark ridge as
crotches can be more readily
refers to removal of dead, dy-
a tree's "first-aid kit" because
seen and corrected.
ing, diseased and weakly at-
the cells and tissue in these
tached branches and water
zones are specially adapted to
sprouts (fast-growing vertical
help the tree heal following
planted with perennials and shrubs. The noise and commotion caused by pruning is also less intrusive in winter when houses are closed tight and less activity is going on outdoors. The spread of insect-born
branches). Crown thinning is pruning. the selective removal of live branches to increase light penetration and air movement. Crown raising is the removal of lower branches to provide clearance for buildings, vehicles and pedestrians. Crown reduction involves using thinning
diseases such as oak wilt is
cuts to make the crown smaller
eliminated. Oaks, by the way,
when it has grown too large for
should never be pruned during
the space. The remaining lateral
April, May or June.
branch to which a leader branch
The goal of pruning is to maintain a tree's structure and
Extension Service
branch bark ridge vary between
there are six general forms of
on turf and around gardens
Diagram courtesy of U of M
nence of the branch collar and
at the tree's branching pattern
use of larger, heavier equipment
Proper Branch Pruning.
branch). The size and promi-
individual trees and tree species.
Frozen ground facilitates the
Figure 4: Three Cuts to
that surrounds the base of a
According to Weicherding,
the pruner to get a better look
Page 3
is cut should be at least onethird the diameter of the branch
The two most-common cutting errors made by nonprofessional pruners, according to Weicherding, are cutting too close ("flush cut") and not cutting close enough ("stub cut"). Both errors can lead to decay, cracks, insect and disease problems and hazard trees. Flush
Crown reduction or Drop-
cuts destroy these tissues that
crotch pruning under utility lines
defend against decay. Stub cuts leave an energy source for insect and disease organisms be-
Page 4
Putting Down Roots... May and June, and the trick here
cause the cells remaining in stub help trees recover following cuts are alive but lack defense
pruning is to water and mulch
is to apply the sealant within
mechanisms.
them during the growing sea-
minutes of pruning. Sealants
son. There is no need to apply
applied to oaks hours or days
any type of sealant or wound
later will not protect oaks be-
"Proper pruning is one of the best things a person can do for trees, and improper pruning is one of the worst," Weicherding says. "When people decide to do their own pruning, rather than hire a professional pruner, they need to arm themselves with the knowledge about what proper pruning is and what it is not." The two best ways to Crown Raising for street and sidewalk clearance
dressing on trees pruned in late cause the insects that transmit winter or early spring. Trees
oak wilt will have already in-
are capable of gradually sealing
fected the wound.
their own wounds when pruned properly. In fact, wound dressings may actually interfere with this process. The only time sealant is recommended is on oak trees pruned during April,
For a Pruning Reference, Please refer to: United States Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. How to Prune Trees This pamphlet is available on the web at: http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_prune/prun001.htm
Frost Cracks: (photos below) It’s That time of year to keep your eyes and ears open for phenomenon related to winter weather. One such phenomenon is frost cracking: longitudinal cracks deep into the trunk of the tree are the result of freezing temperatures. Often frost cracks close before spring and are not very noticeable. Over time callus ridges form along the cracks and in some cases a tree may be weakened. Photos taken near Hodson Hall, St. Paul Campus during a January cold snap (subzero temperatures). As a point of reference the knife handle is about two inches long.
Above: Frost cracks and a weak union between codominant leaders.
Page 5
American Beech (continued from page 1) Autumn turns the leaves a nice coppery,
cal damage from lawnmowers, weed whips
golden bronze color and the leaves persist
and bad pruning may cause more problems
throughout winter. Come spring the leaves
for the tree.
fade to a distinctive white before they drop prior to new bud emergence. Besides attractive foliage, the bark is a smooth silvery gray color. At the end of dormant twigs
As for hardiness, American Beech mirrors its natural growing range. Seed sources
distinctive long pointed brown buds are eas- from its northern range should be used. I personally have not seen trees planted north ily seen. of the Twin Cities metro area. That doesn’t mean they cannot grow further north. But Culturally, this tree does best where it has
as you know, other factors besides tempera-
room to grow, much like sugar maple. It
tures enter into the equation for successfully
would be a good specimen for parks and
growing plants away from its native range.
other areas large enough for good root de-
Certainly, American Beech should be tried
velopment. Beech prefers a moist, well-
in the southern part of the state on favor-
drained, acidic soil and will not do well in
able sites. After all, the grand in the specific
poorly drained or compacted soils. Placing
epithet of the Latin name probably means
them in typical urban boulevards or planting
large leaves, but it could very well mean
pits would be a waste of effort, but reason-
great or magnificent. I prefer the latter!
able soils and root room will probably make Beech may have insect and disease problems Mike Zins but none that are particularly serious. Physi- January, 2003
Sharply pointed, long buds
The smooth gray bark invites the carving of a University of Connecticut.
sharp pointed bud
Photos: Leaf above and Tree below Courtesy of Michael A.
them successful. Like all trees, American
Photo group courtesy of:
Coarsely serrate leaves and
sweetheart’s initials.
Dirr’s Plant Information Web Page.
Page 6
Elm Disease Bacterium Identified From the pages of Agricultural Research magazine
So what was causing the dis-
from another state," says
ease syndrome? To find out, Lee. "Tiny plant-feeding leafAgricultural Research Service hoppers can migrate up to
When 1,000 mature American elms mysteriously died in Illinois during the last decade, scientists at first suspected that the elm yellows (EY) plant pathogen was the culprit. The theory made sense because the disease syndrome was so similar to that caused by the EY phytoMinnesota State Fair Grounds -
plasma, a cell-wall-less bacte-
American Elm with early DED
rium, which sickened North
symptoms.
American elms during the past several decades.
plant pathologist Ing-Ming
1,000 miles on wind power
Lee, with the Molecular Plant alone." The leafhopper dePathology Laboratory in
posits the pathogen while
Beltsville, Maryland, in col-
sucking juices from the tree's
laboration with scientists
phloem.
from Illinois' Morton Arboretum, tried another approach. They used a tool Lee developed to systematically hunt for any phytoplasma that may be present in the diseased Illinois elms.
Dr. Lee will now concentrate on locating the leafhopper vector, determining its species, and finding its origin. He will then monitor the insect because, he says, "A rise in the population of the
Lee's test used polymerase
vector signals a warning."
chain reaction and DNA finEY is unlike another tree malady, the fungal Dutch elm disease. EY occurs in elms native to North America in a region extending from eastern Massachusetts, New York, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey to Michigan, Minnesota, Nebraska, and Mississippi. But historically, EY had been absent from the northern third of Illinois.
gerprinting. The phytoplasma detected in tissue scraped from the elms' bark the EY phytoplasma (taxonomic group 16SrV-A). Instead, Lee identified the phytoplasma as representative of a new subgroup (16SrVI-C) of clover proliferation phytoplasma (group 16SrVI). The carrier, or vector, of this newly identified
American Elms with advanced
Initial tests on the Illinois
leafhopper that is different
DED symptoms.
elms for EY phytoplasma
from the known EY vector.
were conducted by a commercial diagnostic company and were inconclusive.
cultural Research Service
was found to be unrelated to Information Staff.
phytoplasma is most likely a
Minnesota State Fair Grounds -
By Rosalie Marion Bliss, Agri-
Ing-Ming Lee is with the USDA-ARS Molecular Plant Pathology Laboratory, 10300 Baltimore Ave., Bldg. 011A, Rm. 252, Beltsville, MD 20705-2350; phone (301) 504-6024, fax (301) 5045449.
"Elm Disease Bacterium Identified" was published in
"We think the Illinois elm disease is being carried by a transient insect coming in
the January 2003 issue of Agricultural Research magazine.
Page 7
Trees and Medicine Trees and Medicine? By: Robert Andreucci
salicin. All of the members
Slippery elm is a very inter-
of the family Salicacea, of
esting tree. Both Native
which willows and poplars
Americans and 19th century
Is there a connection be-
are members, get their family medicine men utilized almost
tween trees and medicine?
name from this chemical.
The answer is yes. For cen-
all parts of this tree. Even today, you can find slippery
turies man has used natural
elm formulas in health food
products to deal with the
Butternut (White Wal-
many problems he encoun-
nut) – Juglans cinera
tered. One of the most of-
Both doctors and Native
ten used products was the
American medicine men util- possible treatments for ized this species extensively. wounds, bruises, sores and
indigenous plant life. Listed below are several common
stores. The bark of this tree provided a healing salve considered to be among the best
tree species and some of
The inner bark was used as a burns. This bark preparation was so exceptional that it mild cathartic. The most
their medicinal uses. This
common medicinal prepara-
discussion of the fascinating blend of medicine and den-
tion provided relief for upset the user but also reduced stomach, digestive disorders, pain and inflammation.
drology is for information
and was used as a mild laxa-
purposes only. Please con-
tive. Several Native Ameri-
sult a physician with any
can tribes also used it as a
medical questions you may
dressing for wounds. It is
This is the most medicinally
have.
often described as similar to
important oak. Tannin is
rhubarb.
found in both the bark and
proved not only soothing to
White Oak – Quercus alba
acorns of this tree. The tan-
Quaking Aspen - Populus
nin has very powerful anti-
tremuloides
Black Walnut – Juglans ni-
The major chemical in this
gra
tree, salicin, is found in the
As a member of the walnut
bark. When salicin is in the
family, the inner bark of this
human body it converts to
species has laxative proper-
salicylic acid, a common in-
ties similar to butternut.
gredient of aspirin. A prepa-
The leaves also had medicinal
ration of aspen was often
properties. It was used to
Eastern hophornbeam is well
used for headaches and fe-
help with eczema and her-
known for its durable wood
vers.
pes.
that is often used to make
septic and astringent properties.
Eastern hophornbeam (Ironwood) – Ostrya virginiana
mallets and handles, but to Black willow – Salix nigra
Red (Slippery) Elm – Ul-
This species also contain
mus rubra
the early pioneers this tree was also medicinally important. The primary use of
Continued page 17
Page 8
Transplanting… Part II It Might Be Worth Saving Transplanting Trees and Shrubs - Part II: Making the Move
Weeks or months have now passed since you made the decision to move the tree or shrub and hopefully prepared that plant for the journey. I'm sure that to some people, all of this planning seems a bit excessive. If all you are doing is moving a 24 inch Potentilla, I'd have to agree with you. Just dig it up and move it anyway you can…it WILL live. However, since of lot of other readers may be thinking about moving a 12 foot spruce, or 20 old lilacs or a 5 inch caliper basswood, the excessive planning is much more necessary.
A lot has been happening below ground since you root-pruned that tree or shrub a few weeks or months ago, but unless you have x-ray vision it hasn't been obvious. Every root that you cut during that process has rewarded you tenfold…at least. The two photographs in Figure 1 show the effect of timely root pruning. The image to the left is of a green ash, immediately after root pruning. The image to the right is the same tree, four months later. The net result is not only a much more extensive root system, but one that is contained in a much smaller area. This visually exhibits why root-pruned plants survive transplanting so much better than those not pruned.
Root Pruned
After four months of growing Figure 1
Before you transplant, take a look up, around and beneath. It's impossible to avoid talking about tree or shrub placement in a transplanting primer. After all, the plant is theoretically being moved to a "better" site than before. Add these next steps to your checklist: 1.
Look up. Don't plant in a site where the mature tree or shrub can interfere with utility lines or views from windows. And don't fool yourself by thinking that regular pruning can keep the plant size in check. Too much work, too hard on the plant, too easy to forget.
2.
Look around. Will the new placement create a blocked sight line? For instance, as it matures, will it block the view of the street from your driveway as you back out? Or the clear view at an intersection of streets? If so, don't plant it there.
If the proposed planting site is within 60 of the street, the street is a busy street and you know from past experience that a lot of deicing salt is used, don't plant the tree or shrub there unless it's known to be tolerant of Minnesota's main source of pollution. For a list of trees and their tolerances to deicing salt exposure, refer to "Minimizing De-Icing Salt Injury to Trees," (Johnson, Sucoff, 1995).
If the plant could get so broad that it would interfere with pedestrians walking by or lawn mainte-
Transplanting… Part II nance, don't plant it there thinking that pruning would contain the problem. 3.
Look down. Actually, have Gopher State One Call look down and deep for you. I should have mentioned this in part I before you root-pruned, and hopefully none of you severed any utilities. Definitely contact them now at: 651-454-8388, or 800-252-1166, or www.gopherstateonecall.org. It seems like a bit of an annoyance, but it's cheap insurance.
While you're looking down, check the soil for compaction or drainage problems. If you can dig two spades lengths deep into the soil, you don't have a compaction problem. If you need to jump up and down on the shovel and have your 300 pound neighbor do it, too…you have a compaction problem. Compaction problems can be alleviated somewhat by an extensive site preparation (e.g., loosening the soil in an area 10 feet in diameter), and it's so much easier to do that before you move the new tree or shrub. Poor drainage is another story, though.
To check for drainage, dig or auger a hole 24 inches deep. Fill with water and allow it to completely drain. Fill a second time. That second filling should be drained within 24 hours. If it isn't, drainage may be an issue. If the transplanted tree is a sugar maple…it's an issue. If it's a silver maple, it probably isn't. Correcting soil drainage problems is difficult and often expensive. Your best move is to avoid them if they could become problematic for tree or shrub health.
Might as well have that soil tested, too. The most critical thing to determine is the soil pH (whether it's acidic or alkaline), and don't think that just because the native soils are acidic that your soil will be acidic. Most "urbanized" soils are alkaline, some just slightly and others obscenely. If the soil pH is 7.5 or so, and the transplanted tree is a river birch…don't plant it there! It WILL decline and die prematurely. And as with poor drainage, soil alkalinity is difficult and expensive to change.
I'm ready to transplant the tree but it's autumn now. Should I wait until spring? In Part I, I hinted that time of year may be more of a perceived problem, rather than a real problem. Certainly, there are some plants that are best and most successfully moved in the spring (see Part I for a partial listing), but quite honestly, there's little documented research that success or failure rates differ dramatically by seasons (obvious exceptions would be mid-winter and mid-summer).
Most of you reading this live in the southeastern part of Minnesota. That's just a demographic fact, not a location prejudice. Upstate New York is very similar climate-wise to much of Minnesota, especially the southeastern part of Minnesota. In a documented, two-year research experiment conducted by Cornell University in upstate New York (Buckstrup and Bassuk, 2000), hackberry (Celtis occidentalis), ironwood (Ostrya virginiana) and bicolor oak (Quercus bicolor) survived and grew just as well when transplanted in the autumn as they did in the spring. Sometimes better in the autumn. That's research-based information. It's not inclusive for every tree or shrub imaginable, but it is factual and more reliable than memory or "my neighbor said" information.
Page 9
Page 10
Transplanting‌ Part II What ARE the most important factors for transplant success? Transplant as many roots as possible. Never let them dry out. Prepare the new site for root growth. Plant the tree or shrub at the right depth. Take care of the plant after the move, for the life of the plant (figuratively and literally).
Transplant as many roots as possible. If you root-pruned the tree or shrub at least one season before the move, the plant now has a much more concentrated root system in a more confined area. This means that you will be able to move a much more extensive root system. The way it is moved depends on species and size.
Bare-root transplanting is just as the term implies: moving the plant's root system with little to no soil attached. Whenever possible, this is the preferred method because it is relatively simple, the (lighter) plant is easier to handle and move, any root problems become obvious and easier to correct, and in fact, you can usually move a larger root system this way. It is not usually recommended for moving conifers or trees larger than 2 inches in caliper (but those rules can be bent).
Step One: If possible, dig down a few inches beyond that root-pruning trench that you dug a season ago. You will hit some new roots, but the majority of the roots will be contained within the diameter of the rootpruned area. As you are digging down, pry the shovel to lift the roots and loosen the soil (figure 2).
Step Two: Loosen the soil within the diameter of the new trench. If the soil is very dry, it sometimes helps to moisten it a few inches deep the day before you dig. My implement of choice for loosening the soil is a "potato fork," which is similar to a short pitchfork with broad and flat tines. Loosening the soil is walking a fine line between freeing the roots and cutting them. You don't want to cut all the roots off, just loosen the soil from them so the plant can be lifted. Figure 2: Digging Bare-root Step Three: If there are any roots growing down, slip under the root mass with your shovel or use a loppers to cut those roots. Now the plant should be free from the growing site and you can shake most of the remaining soil off (figure 3).
Step Four: Keep the roots moist. Immediately after freeing the plant from the soil, "heel" it back in with loose soil and moisten it. An alternative would be to cover the roots with wet straw or woodchips and cover with a tarp or plastic. Those roots can die in minutes when exposed to air.
Figure 3: Bare-root stock
Now, I've left a couple "holes" that need filling. Caliper. This is the thickness of the stem, which is measured approximately 6 inches above the ground line. However, if the stem measurement taken at that point is greater than 4 inches thick, move up the stem another 6 inches and record the stem thickness at that point.
Page 11
Transplanting… Part II Diameter of root mass. The American Association of Nurserymen has developed the "American Standard for Nursery Stock." (reference and address in concluding reference section). According to the standards, a tree with a 1 inch caliper should have a 18 inch diameter bare root system…AS A MINIMUM. A 2 inch caliper tree should have a 28 inch diameter bare root system…AS A MINIMUM. For a 3 inch caliper tree, at least 38 inches. For a 3 foot tall shrub, 14 inches in diameter; 16 inches for a 4 foot shrub; 18 inches for a 5 foot shrub; and 20 inches for a 6 foot shrub. Keep in mind that these are MINIMUM dimensions. The more roots you transplant with the tree or shrub, the more successful the move will be.
Balling and burlapping (B&B) the root system requires much more skill, patience and muscles! For those larger trees and/or conifers that traditionally move better with a soil ball surrounding the roots, this and moving the plants with a tree spade (mechanical digger) are the preferred methods. The irony of it is that the root system is actually smaller (according to the Standards) for B&B dug versus bare-root dug plants. For instance: 2 inch caliper B&B should have a minimum soil ball diameter of 24 inches (compared to 28 for bare-rooted). Ball and Burlap If the plant traditionally does better as a B&B transplant, if you will not be able to immediately replant the dug tree or shrub and need to store it temporarily, or if you are digging when the plant has leafed out, then those are good reasons to B&B it. In my opinion, however, if you have the option to successfully move the plant barerooted, bare-root it. Referring again to the study by Cornell University, in most cases they had equal success with bare-rooted and B&B plants, and those results have been confirmed by several other research experiments at other universities and botanical gardens for many years.
If you decide to ball and burlap the plant, the process is a bit different.
Again, if the soil is dry, moisten it to a depth of several inches the day before the move. Carefully scrape away all excess surface soil until you find the first branch root/s. This should be the very top of your soil ball when the plant is finally dug. (figure 4, "Tie up the foliage and branches to
Above - Figure 4: Foliage and
reduce breakage during the transplanting operation.")
branches tied up Below - Figure 5: Compacting and
Use a flat spade, similar to a "sod-cutting" spade, instead of a rounded or "spoon" shovel. Turn the face of the shovel away from the stem of the plant as you dig down around the minimum root ball diameter.
As you sink the spade into the soil and cut the roots, press the handle back toward the stem and scoop the soil out away from the soil ball. This is the opposite action taken when bare-rooting a plant. This action compacts the soil into a solid root/soil ball with each spade of soil scooped away. (Figure 5, “Compacting the root ball as soil is scooped away.”)
After the first "lap" around the root ball diameter, begin a second lap digging down deeper. In effect, you will be digging this trench around the soil ball two spade-lengths deep.
removing soil.
Page 12
Transplanting‌ Part II Begin "shaving off" soil from the soil ball. Don't try to move a soil ball if there are no roots to hold it intact, because it won't stay intact! Shave off soil until you hit enough roots that you can be confident that it will hold together. Then, begin cutting down and into the bottom center of the soil ball. This is known as "tapering" the soil ball, and again, if you don't hit any roots, don't try to move that soil with the soil ball. Keep tapering in until you begin cutting roots. (figure 6, "The soil ball has been shaved and tapered to where the roots are concentrated.")
Once the soil ball is shaved and tapered, fold up a sheet of burlap or an old sheet, slip it down into
Figure 6: Shave and taper the ball.
the hole against one side of the soil ball and roll the soil ball back onto the burlap or sheet. Pull half of the burlap or sheet under the soil ball and up around the opposite side. (figure 7, "Slipping burlap under the soil ball.")
Pull up the four corners of the burlap or sheet, tie them to each other and snug up the wrapping. Sometimes it is necessary to "bind up" the burlap or sheet with twine or a rope to hold it all together. (figure 8, "Pull the burlap under and up to cradle the soil ball. Tie the corners of the burlap together.") Figure 7: Burlapping Get some help and lift the plant out of the hole.
That sounds like a lot of work and very confusing! You're right! It took me about four months to learn how to ball and burlap professionally when I started working for a nursery as a college student. It's very hard work, frustrating at times, and every tree and shrub is a bit different. I'd recommend that you hire someone experienced at this art if it needs to be done, or have it moved with a tree spade. Figure 8: Tied up and ready to move. The move. As mentioned earlier, if the soil is compacted, loosen it as much as you can tolerate. Then pass the shovel or roto tiller off to someone else and have them loosen it as much as they can tolerate. This will pay off in the form of a shorter transplant shock period and a healthier, longer-lived tree or shrub.
Replanting the shocked tree or shrub is at least as important as the digging process. For detailed information on the best planting practices, refer to "Planting Trees and Shrubs for Long-Term Health," which is listed in the concluding reference section. The steps are simple, however.
Step one. Measure the depth of the root system if it's bare-rooted, or the soil ball depth if it's B&B or tree spade dug. Step 1: Measure the soil ball Step 2: determine depth
Step two. That measured depth is the deepest that the new planting hole should be. If you are to err, err on the side of planting high. This doesn't mean that the roots will be sticking up out of the ground. You will just need to haul in more good soil to cover those higher roots, creating a planting berm. Step three. The width of the hole depends on the nature of the soil, the compacted nature to be specific. If the new planting site has beautiful, loose soil, the width of the planting hole is not a
Page 13
Transplanting‌ Part II big issue. It should be large enough to place the soil ball/roots into it and work the backfill soil in around those roots. If the soil is very compacted, then the wider the planting hole, the better. Step four. Double-check that planting depth and make sure those first branch roots are no deeper than the landscape surface. Don't worry, they're not going to die; they will end up with a light dressing of mulch over them. Step five. If the tree or shrub has been balled and burlapped, backfill about half way up the soil ball depth and then cut off the remaining burlap or sheet above that point. Step six. Complete the backfilling, water the soil ball/root area thoroughly and mulch the planting site with 2-4 inches of the mulch of your choice. Don't pile ANY mulch up against the stem, however. Step seven. Religiously water, sometimes every day depending on the season, soil drainage and size of the transplant. Allow the soil to drain after each irrigation, but never allow the roots and the soil around the roots to completely dry out. Don't prune off branches to compensate for root loss! This practice may seem logical, but it's not bio-logical. If branches subsequently die, then prune them off.
There is a "magic bullet!" Everyone wants to know what they can do to ensure transplant success. Is it fertilizer? No. Is it soil fungi or bacteria? No. Is it cow manure, peat moss, composted leaves? No. It's water. Not too much, not too little, not once a week, not one inch of water per week, not just before planting, not only after planting. It's the amount needed to keep the roots moist from the time you begin digging until the tree or shrub is safely beyond transplant shock (at least one year). And then after that, for the life of the tree. When water is maintained at an optimum level, then fertilizers, soil amendments, microbial inoculations may be beneficial. If water is lacking or excessive, those other amendments are either worthless or damaging to plant health.
Occasionally, trees may need some support via stakes for a short period of time after transplanting. For more information on staking and guying trees, refer to the Forest Resources Extension web site listed in the reference section. Often, trees and shrubs need some winter protection from hungry critters. Again, refer to the Forest Resources Extension web site. http://www.cnr.umn.edu/FR/extension/ Examples of tree spades to handle larger trees Skid steer mounted 34 inch tree spade
Truck mounted 88 inch tree spade.
Step 4: Double check depth of 1st branch roots.
Page 14
Transplanting‌ Part II References:
American Association of Nurserymen. American Standard for Nursery Stock, ANSI Z60.1. 1250 I Street, N.W., Suite 500, Washington, D.C. 20005.
Buckstrup, Michelle J. and Nina L. Bassuk. 2000. Transplanting Success of Balled-and-Burlapped Versus Bare-Root Trees in the Urban Landscape. Journal of Arboriculture, 26(6): November, 2000. P. 298-308.
Hargrave, Rebecca, Gary Johnson and Michael Zins. 2002. Planting Trees and Shrubs for Long-Term Health. University of Minnesota Extension Service, MI-07681. 13 pages.
Johnson, G.R. and Ed Sucoff. 1995. Minimizing De-Icing Salt Injury to Trees. University of Minnesota Extension Service, FO-1413, 7 pages.
Forest Resources Extension, University of Minnesota. www.cnr.umn.edu/FR/extension. Click on Urban and Community Forestry, then click on Maintenance for: Minimizing De-Icing Salt Injury to Trees, and Tree Stem Protection. Go back to Urban and Community Forestry page, click on Planting for: Staking and Guying Trees, Tree Planting 101, and Planting Methods for Trees and Shrubs.
Above: Tree is road-ready Below: Chad Giblin, TRE nursery manager, stands in its place.
88 inch tree spade being lined up to lift a maple from the TRE nursery.
Page 15
“AND THE WINNERS ARE‌" After entering the volunteer hours reported for 2002, we have a new list of "TCA Medalists." New medalists to a category are those with their names in bold font. The categories of achievement signify the total volunteer hours contributed by that individual since they completed their TCA training. BRONZE LEVEL (100-199 hours) Anna Barker Gary Schneider Doris Carroll Sharon Fisk Ronald Reeves Margaret Kirchner Andy Sobert Terri Goodfellow-Hayer Dorothy Pederson Gordon Hanson Jackie Overom Lee Gilligan Pat Friedrichs Paul Couture Marilyn McKay James Zastera Barbara Stendahl Gail Griffin Harold Batzer Jean Hjellming Claire Kari Kay Karsell Lou Ann Keleher Lynn Klessig Deb Kuechle Heide Ludwig Herb Pieper Kathy Pollock Beverly Quam Barbara Harlan Laurie Drolson Jay Willet SILVER LEVEL (200-299) Joyce Nellis Charles Hueser Audrey Dolby Diana Bolander Tim Wedekind Glen Hambleton Leah Peterson Bruce Granos
Paula Denman Francis Eberlein Barbara Kirkpatrick Jane Klein Barbara Leschisin Vera Wagner GOLD LEVEL (300-499) Warren Banks Cliff Johnson Sherry Atkins Janet Larson Mike Sowers Nancy Bjerke PLATINUM LEVEL (Over 500 hours) Lorrie Stromme Patti Lee Gates Carolyn Dingfelder Robert Condon * Skip Rither Esther Filson * Rita Nystrom ** Jim Nelson * Gordon Herbst Mimi Hottinger
of the sessions will even be taught by a team of TCAs. This really is an acknowledgement of your value to urban and community forestry in Minnesota, and shows that many others recognize the contributions that you make. The MN STSC will be held on March 25 and 26, 2003, at Bethel College. When you receive your brochure, register through me (Gary or Dave), NOT through the University. The STSC Steering Committee also passed another resolution last summer. There will be an automatic price break on registration costs for TCAs that have reached a category of achievement. So, for those TCAs listed in the different "medalists" categories, here are the price reductions: Bronze Level: 40% off. Silver Level: 60% off. Gold Level: 80% off. Platinum Level: Free Registration!
On both days, there will be a TCA Luncheon. On the first day, there will be a recognition ceremony at the luncheon for all the Thank you, thank you, thank you to new members of the four, medalist all of these TCAs! YOU and your categories. Both days, however, will provide TCAs with their own fellow TCAs are the reason that this program has such a wonderful room to dine, chat, renew old friendships, make new ones, and reputation. maybe even offer to mentor new TCAs. *Extraordinary Recognition. **Most Hours Recognition.
Shade Tree Short Course Tree Care Advisors Recognition, Opportunities, and Thank You! Want to hear something really neat? The TCA program will have its own "track" at the 2003 MN Shade Tree Short Course (STSC)! Last summer, the STSC Steering Committee voted to establish a new track of courses specifically to target TCAs. When the STSC brochure is mailed out (approximately 6 weeks before the STSC), you will see several courses unique to the TCA registrant. One
If you want to volunteer your time at the STSC (and count them as volunteer hours), please contact me or David. Once again, Patti Lee Gates has agreed to coordinate the volunteers, which is a great relief to all of us. Patti has done an outstanding job in the past. If you serve as a volunteer for the expected hours of service, you can attend the STSC free. Patti Lee sets the volunteer guidelines not me, not David, not you - and if you can work within those guidelines, we'd love to have you help us.
Page 16
Working With Volunteers.. ter Gardeners neighbors and
By Jane Klein Having organized and
My favorite day was a cold,
worked several events,
windy, and rainy early spring
which include MNDOT tree
Saturday. We were working
planting, Bethke Park buck-
on highway 694 doing a com-
thorn removal, mulching and munity MNDOT planting. replanting, and some GRG
We had a large group of Tar-
events, I have enjoyed every
tan High School students
minute and learned so much. who proudly planted their assigned number of trees, When I started coordinating volunteer events at Bethke Park in Oakdale, I met a young man (about age13) who came to one of my
and thought they were finished for the morning and could go home to get warm and dry. Unfortunately, it was my task to give them the bad news that the “big old
“first events” as a “court kid” pile of brown mulch” wasn’t who needed to give back affordable housing for the some hours to the community. Having been assigned
highway critters; we were responsible for putting all of
to our event, he wasn’t really it around the newly planted enthused to cut and pull trees, along with another buckthorn. After giving him instructions and tools, he School Projects are just around
quickly started to work
the corner. Thank You(s) to
through the wooded park (I
Lynn Klessig from Elementary School Students.
bucket of water. It didn’t take these kids long to gather all the five-gallon buckets available, form a
sentence to serve kids. Each group has a mixture of workers that come for different reasons. If you can find out what brought them there, you can usually work with that reason to motivate them and keep them working. HOWEVER, THE NUMBER ONE THING TO ALWAYS REMEMBER, IS TO MAKE IT FUN. Secondly, the THANK YOU is always used freely and every volunteer, no matter why they are there, is treated with respect.
The key to getting things done is to be extremely organized (have pre- registration if possible) and have good supervisors in place. The best supervisors also have a sense of humor and
can be a little bossy. If you was impressed, this kid could bucket brigade along the have a group sign up, have work) however, then he was freeway and finish the job. “ them bring a “team leader” gone. Seeing he was in “my POWER of TEAMWORK” A to keep them together and charge”, I had the responsi- volunteer coordinator dream take care of any special perbility to go find him and was come true. sonal needs. even concerned that he may have been hurt. To my surprise, he was in the back of
I have been extremely fortu-
the park sitting on log light-
nate to have worked with
ing up a cigarette. I learned the Hubert Humphrey Job
The following 10 tips also may help:
a lot about young volun-
Corps kids, girls hockey
teers. They need to be su-
team, girl scouts, boy scouts, 1. Start and finish on time. churches, garden clubs, MasKnow the capabilities of
pervised!
Page 17
your volunteers and al-
count before anyone
Continued from page 7
low time appropriately.
leaves (if you spray the
Ostrya was as a cough syrup.
2. Have beverages and treats-event appropriate.
handles bright pink, they are easier to find).
Medicinally this was one of
Washroom directions or furnish. 3. Have tools and extra gloves available. Name badges are a must. 4. Go over safety and tool use (make sure that they understand that your “brand new” loppers will be of little or no use af-
the most important trees to 8. ALWAYS bring a camera Native Americans. They and do a group photo. used the needles, buds, bark, Before and after is always cones, roots and pitch. This fun. Be sure to tell peo- species contains vitamin C ple to stay for the final
and is used in the prevention
photo. Keeps them
of scurvy. It contains five
there until you are fin-
times the amount of vitamin
ished.
C as an equal weight of lem-
9. Get their names and
ter they are used to cut
phone numbers for fu-
barbed wire fencing).
ture events.
Advise your volunteers where first aid is even if it is just someone with a
White Pine – Pinus strobes
10. If needed, get volunteer waivers signed.
ons and is also rich in vitamin A. Smoke from burning needles (do not try this at home) was inhaled as a cure for backache. The cones and buds were used by Native Americans in the treatment
cell phone or a Band-Aid.
of coughs.
5. Review the tasks and project goals (be realis-
Finally, don’t be discouraged
tic).
if people sign up and don’t
Obviously, trees and medi-
6. Make it fun and a learning show. It happens, and it isn’t cine do mix. personal. Always try to have experience. Let each volunteer know that the project would not be a success if they were not there.
about 10% more sign ups
than needed. Also, if you are short volunteers, there is always another day.
Robert Andreucci is a manager and Arborist Representative in Bartlett’s Lebanon, NJ office.
7. Do a tool roundup and Article from: Bartlett Tree Vera Wagner and Volunteers
Experts, Tree Topics. Summer 2002. The F.A. Bartlett Tree Expert Company. P.O. Box 3067, Stamford CT 06905.
Page 18
A Printable Letter - Or “Notes from the DNR” TCAs are Key to Local Program Success
New Newsletter Feature? Notes from the DNR...
TCA website: http://www.mntca.org
Learn More About MSA at: http://www.isa-msa.org/
Welcome to the 21st century. Trained and eager by Ken Holman, MN DNR Tree Care Advisors are poised to provide advice on A few years ago, I had a run a lot more than proper prunin with my city’s Street De- ing. Your work as crew leaders and technical advipartment. As part of their routine pruning to clear for sors on planting projects, innovative ideas for teaching garbage and snowplow trucks, a crew “butchered” a tree care basics and your role as citizen advocates on specimen tree that HAD local tree boards have probeen screening an unsightly view from our front yard and vided a key element common living room picture window. to our most successful community programs – active When the Superintendent stopped by, I suggested that involvement by informed the city could gain more ac- citizens. In doing so, you have also made the Minneceptance of their work by notifying residents in advance sota TCA program a model of pruning work, or at least for other state U&CF programs. Wisconsin and sevby making proper pruning cuts. Sensing a formal com- eral other states have plaint, he proceeded to take adapted our approach. pictures to defend his crew’s actions. Nearly 30 years ago, Minne-
urban forestry programs, the states were required to establish advisory councils, and MnSTAC was the prime example. STAC is Minnesota’s tree board. But unlike a typical city tree board, it has been made up almost exclusively of professional foresters and arborists, except for Don. That has changed since TCAs started showing up for monthly meetings. I’m not sure when it started, but your presence has grown to where often half of the 30 to 40 attendees are TCAs. More significant is how you have stepped up into leadership roles and supported key STAC activities.
Lorrie Stromme is in her second year as President. Terri Stark volunteered to sota produced another naI didn’t pursue it, but instead tionally recognized model – develop and maintain our Enewsletter. Kim Sullivan is the Minnesota Shade Tree have since offered him and now the Co-chair of the Advisory Committee other city staff and officials STAC Legislative Subcommit(MnSTAC). Begun in 1974 the technical information I and lead for 15 years by the tee. Lu Schmidtke and felt could help them better Lynda Forbes donated over care for my city’s trees. The tree advocates’ advocate, 100 hours to enter survey point is, he was annoyed that Don Willeke, MnSTAC has data (and offer a citizen’s I was trying to suggest how helped coordinate state asthey might do a better job – sistance to communities and perspective on the results) for Rich Hauer’s PhD proof public relations, let alone advocated for continued ject, quantifying the ecotree maintenance. I use this state agency funding and nomic benefits of state assisgrants for local programs, to illustrate an old and all too common attitude about e.g. MN ReLeaf. When fed- tance to local tree programs eral funds became available in since 1974. On a cold and citizen advice – it’s usually rainy day out on Gary’s 1990 to start or build state not appreciated.
Page 19
planting depth research plots at Bailey’s, Mimi Hottinger helped lift, knock wet soil off the roots and bag up some 200 caliper size trees. Thanks to “the Bag Lady of SGR” for making it a fun day. I’m sure there are other examples that I’ve inadvertently overlooked. This leadership and support of STAC is vital, a real breath of fresh air (a.k.a. a citizen’s perspective) and truly appreciated. But your leadership efforts in your communities and neighborhoods will, in the long run, contribute most to building and sustaining local tree management programs. As TCAs, you have a better understanding of community forestry issues than 99% of elected officials, and as citizens, you should have 100% of their attention. With Gary’s tireless dedication, Dave Hanson’s organizational skills and your enthusiasm, your potential is unlimited in speaking for the trees. We look forward to helping others replicate your efforts across the state, by helping Dave further develop the web-based TCA curriculum and by enlisting technical experts in Greater Minnesota to help Gary provide classroom instruction. It’s a
top priority for the DNR Community Forestry Program. Let’s call it “treeroots advocacy.”
or park board, and offer to help develop a grant project idea. DNR and Tree Trust staff are ready to help. Go to www.dnr.state.mn.us/ grants . The more need citSo to all who’ve gone beyond the required TCA vol- ies express, the more likely unteer contribution, keep up the legislature is to support the great work, and mentor ReLeaf funding, currently others to join you. If you’re recommended to be funded at $800,000. willing to help, I offer a few ideas: > If you know of a program, project or individual worth > Attend a STAC meeting recognizing, submit a nomior learn more about our nation for a STAC, MSA or work at www.mnstac.org . Tree City USA Growth The February 20th meeting is Award. Information on all dedicated to recognizing the these awards is linked to the work of volunteers, and MnSTAC site. scheduled in the evening for your convenience. > Take advantage of the new TCA Track at the 2003 > Sign up to receive the Shade Tree Short Course in Minnesota Shade Tree Advolate March. It’s a tribute to cate, STAC’s free quarterly Gary’s dedication to your newsletter, and share it with continuing education. your tree huggin’ friends. > Share the STAC Legislative report with your local, state and federal elected representatives, and invite them out to see first hand how much you and your community value your trees. Watch the STAC site for news on the legislative session.
But by all means, please let us know how we can help you with your work. It is the key to our collective success, locally and globally.
> Share the fiscal years 2004-05 MN ReLeaf preapplication and guidelines with your city staff and tree
Minnesota DNR, Division of Forestry
Visit Tree Trust at: http://www.treetrust.org/
Learn More at : http://www.arborday.org/
Visit: http://www.mnstac.org/
MN ReLeaf Visit the DNR’s Community Forestry Website:
Ken Holman Community Forestry Coordinator
(651) 296-9110 ken.holman@dnr.state.mn.us
http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/ forestry/urban/index.html
Contact Phone Numbers Program Contacts:
Gary Johnson – 612-625-3765 or grjonson@.umn.edu Dave Hanson – 612-624-1226 or dlhanson@umn.edu Mailing Address: 115 Green Hall, 1530 Cleveland Ave. North, St. Paul, MN 55108
TCAAG Members:
Paula Denman, Chair – 612-338-1871, pjdenman@mn.rr.com Bob Condon – 952-890-1228, bobnbunny@juno.com Laurie Drolson – 651-464-9829, ldrolson@yahoo.com Bruce Granos – 952-423-5211, bjgbjgbjg@hotmail.com Mimi Hottinger – 507-388-4838, mimih@mctcnet.net Barb Kirkpatrick – 651-490-9816, sambucus@attbi.com Lorrie Stromme – 612-788-5157, stro0293@umn.edu
County Contacts:
Anoka County (Patrick Weicherding) – 763-755-1280 or weich002@umn.edu Blue Earth – (507)389-8325 Carver County - (952) 442-4946 Dakota County (Barb Stendhal) – 952-463-8002 or stend004@umn.edu Hennepin County (Bob Mugaas) – 612-374-8400 Olmstead County (Doug Courneya) – 507-285-8250 or courneya@umn.edu Ramsey County – (Doug Foulk) – 651-777-8156 St. Louis County (Bob Olen) – 218-726-7512
Additional Reference Contacts:
Debby Newman (Info-U) – 612-624-3263 Don Mueller, DNR Forestry – 651-772-6148 or don.mueller@dnr.state.mn.us Great River Greening – 651-665-9500 Ken Holman, DNR Forestry – 651-296-9110 or ken.holman@dnr.state.mn.us Rich Hauer, Minnesota Department of Agriculture (certified tree inspector workshop coordinator) 651-296-0592 or rich.hauer@state.mn.us Paul Walvatne MNDOT – 651-284-3793 or Paul.Walvatne@dot.state.mn.us Tree Trust – 651-644-5800
A couple of tidbits: 1) According to Dr. Treevorkian (Jim Chatfield, Ohio State University Extension) the irritating component found in poison ivy, urushiol, is also found in the fleshy portion of ginkgo fruits. 2) If you are mulching around a pond, keep in mind that some leaves such as oak, maple, and also pine needles, leach tannic acid. This can give the water a distinctly brown cast. This tannic acid can be deadly to your fish, especially if you have a small pond.
Provided by Deb Kuechle
Source: Water Gardening Basics. Authors: Helen Nash and Marilyn M. Cook. Page 98.
Photo Credits: American Beech (Fagus grandifolia) Michael A. Dirr, Plant Information Web Page. Horticulture 3700 Plant List: http://www.nobleplants.com/index.htm University of Connecticut Plant Database: http://www.hort.uconn.edu/plants/f/faggra/faggra1.html