Turku Times 1/18 by Mobile-Kustannus Oy

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A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

The faces of Finnish sport

Turku timeline

Reading the Finnish mind

VASA KINGS’ GAME OF POWER touched also Finland

please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

DINING WITH DAD

A column by Anna Kortelainen

WELCOME TO TURKU! © Seilo Ristimäki

Urban legends since 1229 MUSIC TURKU PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA AND TURKU CONCERT HALL Turku Philharmonic Orchestra offers a wide range of concerts from September to May both in Turku Concert Hall and in the many historical venues of Turku and the beautiful archipelago. The weekly symphony concerts feature guest artists from Finland and abroad. The orchestra’s 74 musicians are since 2012 enjoying the artistic leadership of world renowned Chief Conductor Leif Segerstam.

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES in Kupittaa area, just about 2 km from the city centre

LIBRARY TURKU CITY LIBRARY Linnankatu 2 Open every day, Turku City Library is set in the impressive architecture of two buildings combined as a whole. The library features several areas for events and exhibitions as well as plenty of places to read. The visitor can delve into the thousands of journals in either paper or electronic format. A wireless network is available in all areas for the use of laptops, but visitors also have access to multiple computers.

ADVENTURE PARK (Seikkailupuisto) is a cultural centre for children and families, located on the edges of the Kupittaanpuisto-park area. Adventure Park is open all year round and best suitable for children aged 0 to 12. During the summer the park’s attractions include a shower sponge, a wading pool, a brook that twists around the park and a traffic town. During the winter season, there’s plenty to do in the park’s indoor facilities, including club and theatre activities, music play schools and open art workshops. TURKU.FI/EN/ADVENTURE-PARKSEIKKAILUPUISTO

Aninkaistenkatu 9

KUPITTAA SPORTS CENTER An excellent place to spend an active day with family, or a perfect place for the active enthusiast or spectator, in any season. The area contains football fields, an indoor sports arena and Finnish baseball fields. Visitors may use free of charge roller coaster rink, outdoor gym, beach volleyball courts and BMX track. Just like a well-furnished living room, it offers a perfect place for a cosy picnic in the green park or a nice refreshing swim in the outdoor swimming pool. TURKU.FI/EN/SPORTS

TURKU.FI/EN/CULTURE_AND_SPORTS

MUSEUMS Linnankatu 80 Tue–Sun 10–18 The fortress of Turku Castle has stood at the edge of the river Aura since the 1280’s. During its history it has been a defensive bastion, a majestic court, an administrative centre, and a prison. Nowadays the castle is a must visit tourist attraction in Turku. Exhibions • Game of Power - Raformation in Finland Events • Medieval Day • Medieval Tournament Guided Tours in english 4 Jun – 28 Aug

PHARMACY MUSEUM AND THE QWENSEL HOUSE Läntinen Rantakatu 13 1 Jun–16 Sep Tue–Sun 10–18 Be led through the history of medicine, ailments and health in the Pharmacy Museum and see the presentation of an 18th Century gentry residence at Qwensel house, two museums in one that can be found in Turku

centre, on the Aura riverside. In an extraordinary location this preserved wooden building conceals elegantly furnished halls and chambers as well as Finland’s oldest pharmacy interior, pharmacist’s laboratory and herb store. The renewed museum will be opened in June and at the same time the museum’s 60th anniversary will be celebrated.

LUOSTARINMÄKI HANDICRAFTS MUSEUM Vartiovuorenkatu 2 4 Jun–2 Sep Mon–Sun 10–18 In 1827 the Great Fire of Turku caused massive destruction, but Luostarinmäki was spared from the flames. Nowadays the old quarter and artisans of Luostarinmäki form a unique atmosphere, where time stands still. At the museum, journey in time to life of the common folk from the 1800’s. The museum presents the professions of the pre-industrial era, with many different handicraft workshops located in the village.

WÄINÖ AALTONEN MUSEUM OF ART Itäinen Rantakatu 38 Tue–Wed 10–18, Thu 10–19, Fri–Sun 10–18 The Wäinö Aaltonen museum is dedicated to the late, Turku born sculptor and operates as a city art museum along the shores of the river Aura. Offerings include changing exhibitions, new and experimental art projects as well as various cultural events.

Exhibions 8 Jun – 16 Sep • Simo Helenius • Hertta Kiiski & Jenna Sutela TURKU.FI/EN/MUSEUM

TURKU CASTLE

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CONTENTS Welcome to Turku, an international meeting place! 8 The faces of Finnish sport 10 Selected services & places 15 Maps of Turku & Ruissalo Island 16 Hotels & hostels providing Turku Times 18 Vasa kings’ Game of Power touched also Finland 20 Turku timeline 24 Reading the Finnish mind 26 Dining with dad – A column by Anna Kortelainen 28

Turku Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 1/2018 "Summer" www.turkutimes.fi ISSN: 2342-2823

Editor Anna Eloaho

Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski

Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover Photos from left to right & up to down: Game of Power – Reformation in Finland exhibition. Photo: Museum Centre of Turku Vähätori square. Photo: City of Turku Logomo. Photo: Valentino Valkaj Europeade 2017. Photo: City of Turku Old Turku. Photo: Tim Bird Dinner by the river. Photo: Päivi Kosonen Anna Kortelainen. Photo: Marek Sabogal

Turku Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: www.turkutimes.fi. Turku Times is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Turku (see page 18). Next Turku Times issue is out in November 2018. 6

photo: olli sulin

Welcome to Turku,

an international meeting place!

urku has always been first and foremost a coastal city, a port and a place of trade. The meetings of cultures around the city have been significant to the development of Turku into the city it is today. Internationality and multiculturalism can still be seen in Turku in the great variety of nationalities, languages and customs. Today, roughly one hundred languages are spoken in the city, and about 130 different nationalities are represented here. Turku will be celebrating its 800th anniversary in 2029, which makes it the oldest city in Finland. Turku has served as a pioneer in urbanisation and international connections in Finland. Today, Turku is a modern, rapidly evolving city and also one of the centres of trade, industry and culture in Finland. The River Aura is the living room of the residents of Turku and it holds a deep meaning for them as a popular place for spending time. In summer, the river banks fill up with sunbathers, and the several restaurant ships and shore restaurants with people enjoying the light evenings. The best way to find out about the feeling of life in Turku is to visit both sides of the river. Grab a bike or canoe up the Aura River, or to the verdant oak forests and shores decorated with ornamented villas in Ruissalo. The range of restaurants in Turku has grown to become a

national topic of conversation, and people are travelling to the city purely for the purpose of trying new tastes and experiences. The new restaurants in the city put the spotlight on local food, producers from the archipelago and local area, and the best Nordic raw ingredients. Beauty of the archipelago and nature experiences Formed by the ice age, the beautiful Turku Archipelago and the Archipelago Sea, with its more than 40,000 islands and rocky islets, are located off the coast of Turku. You can admire the beauty of the archipelago between Turku and Stockholm from the deck of one of the cruise ships that travel between the cities every day. You can also get to know the archipelago on water buses or charter cruises departing in the Aura River in the centre of the City. Connection traffic from the Aura River via Seli to Nauvo started last year, and will continue this summer as well. The regional public transport system Fรถli also covers the unique water bus route from the Aura River to Ruissalo. The Fรถli routes will expand to the unique Kuhankuono nature reserve next summer. The several nature trails of Kuhankuono, with their footbridges and extensive marsh areas, are now accessible at only the cost of a bus ticket. You can reach the archipelago further via the guided Archipelago Trail, which runs from the mainland to the islands through bridges and ferries. In addition to the charming archipelago landscapes, the trail offers comfortable guest harbours and lodging from rental cabinets to cosy archipelago inns. Turku is a city of events, and the summer of 2018 will once again offer a vast range of interesting things to experience. Visit the calendar on the www.turku.fi front page to view all the events (or: kalenteri.turku.fi/en/events/calendar). Welcome to experience Turku! s Minna Arve mayor of Turku 8

Photos: Timo Jakonen | Layout: Erkki Kiiski

EXPERIENCE UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE, CULTURAL HISTORY AND ARCHITECTURE

Visit Turku Churches Turku Cathedral Tuomiokirkonkatu 1 ●

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Finland’s only medieval cathedral and national shrine was consecrated in 1300. Guide booklets are on sale at the Information desk. You can use your mobile phone or tablet to find out about the Cathedral and its closed tomb chapels. Summer cafe Cathedral Museum 2/1 € Open daily, 9 a.m.–6 p.m.

➤ St Michael’s Church Puistokatu 16 ●

●

Designed by Lars Sonck, an architectural gem with magnificent ornaments. Built 1905, representing neo-gothic and national romantic styles. Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–6 p.m., Sat 10 a.m.–1 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.–1 p.m. (4 Jun–31 Aug, except 22–23 Jun) Guides available

➤ St Mary’s Church Maunu Tavastinkatu 2 ●

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Medieval stone church from early 15th century, with rich secco drawings. Mon–Fri 12 noon–6 p.m. (4 Jun–10 Aug, except 22 Jun) Guide available

➤ St Catherine’s Church Kirkkotie 46 ●

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Medieval stone church of Catherine of Siena and St Catherine of Alexandria in unique surroundings. Mon–Fri 12 noon–5 p.m. (4 Jun–3 Aug, except 22 Jun) Guide available

➤ In winter time churches are only open during masses, concerts and other events (except Turku Cathedral).

➤ For other churches and chapels, see Turku and Kaarina Parish Union site: www.turunseurakunnat.fi

photo: Giuliano Bevilacqua / SPORTS MUSEUM OF FINLAND

The faces of Finnish sport Lasse Virén winning the men’s 5000m in Montreal 1976. In a dramatic finish, Virén left Dutch-born New Zealand runner Dick Quax (number 091), West German Klaus-Peter Hildenbrand (420) and the rest behind. Virén won four gold medals at the 1972 and 1976 Summer Olympics.

Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Anna Eloaho

The Finnish history of sports is full of great moments and unforgettable

characters. Let us present a couple of those who have become symbols for the Finnish sports and indeed, for Finnishness itself.

Smiling men

Silence is Golden

An old Finnish proverb “Itku paljon nauramasta” would probably The cornerstone of traditional Finnishness is to understand that it’s translate closest to “It’s all fun and games until somebody loses an eye”. the achievements of a man that speak for him, not the man himself. Yet, the direct translation gloomily states that after a lot of laugh there The most iconic figure in holding one’s tongue is Paavo Nurmi, whose will be tears. It doesn’t encourage towards emotional emancipation, accomplishments in the 1920’s include nine Olympic golds and so let alone urge to openly express positive little talking that compared to him the Iceman feelings. Hannes Kolehmainen, however, Kimi Räikkönen is a blabbermouth. got his nickname ”The Smiling Finn” from BUT NO, the grin on his face on the last meters of the VIRÉN TURNS HIS HEAD, men’s 5,000 meters in the 1912 Stockholm Working Class Hero LOOKS QUAX IN THE EYE Olympics, when he realised that Jean Boulin AND SMILES AT HIM. of France started to lag behind. The moment The bloody Civil War of 1918 divided Finnish that turned up the corners of the mouth for people for a very long time. Finland’s only Lasse Virén came 64 years later in Montreal, Olympic medal in the 1948 London Olympics in the beginning of the homestretch of that same distance: Dick Quax was won by the javelin thrower Tapio Rautavaara. In his memoirs of New Zealand rises to his side and many believe him to win the Rautavaara recollects how the leaders of the Finnish Olympic team day. But no, Virén turns his head, looks Quax in the eye and smiles had pondered afterwards in sauna, that no medals at all would at him. The psychological warfare does the trick, Quax is left behind have been a better result from London than a gold medal won by a and the Finn takes home gold. working class athlete. 10

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photo: Franco Lini / Alamy Stock Photo

CHAMPION OF FORMULA ONE KEKE ROSBERG TOOK TO INTERNATIONAL CIRCLES LIKE DUCK TAKES TO WATER.

manner that there have been times when Finland’s ranking position in FIFA has been behind not just all other Scandinavian countries but the Faroe Islands, too. After all, the total number of inhabitants of the Faroes is barely that of a football team. The fallen hero

Keke Rosberg (right) with British Nigel Mansell in 1985.

The first cosmopolites The omerta in Finnish sports ended when the code of silence was broken by the representatives of motorsports, who took promoting themselves in the international circles for granted. When the Finnish rally drivers were still mostly known for their poor command of the English language, the World Championship motorcycle road racer Jarno Saarinen as well as the Champion of Formula One Keke Rosberg took to international circles like ducks take to water. Jarno Saarinen, who died tragically in Monza in 1973 was extremely popular also outside Finland. For example, the Italian racing driver Jarno Trulli who competed in Formula One during 1997–2011, has been named after Saarinen. Keke on his behalf assisted both Mika Häkkinen and his own son Nico Rosberg to become World Champions after his own active career. The land of team players For a very long time the Finnish sport heroes were all representatives of individual sports. An explanation to this has been suggested to lie in the genes. Of those individuals who some 10,000 years ago thought it to be a good idea to go alone to the cold north, as far from the rest of the humankind as possible. During the last decades the world has, however, pushed its way to Finland, too, and the Finns have become team players, whose success in ice-hockey, basketball and volleyball is due to the disciplined team playing abilities and the ability to work for the common goal. A splendid example of this is the Women’s National Football team, advancing to the European Championships three times in a row between 2005–13, making it at best even to the semi-finals. The exception to the rule is the Men’s National Football team, that has, one has to admit, produced superstars like Jari Litmanen and Sami Hyypiä, but has also managed to underachieve in such a

PIHKALA WOULD TURN IN HIS GRAVE IF HE

KNEW THAT FINLAND’S ONLY MEDAL IN THE

2016 SUMMER OLYMPICS WAS WON BY

MIRA POTKONEN, A WOMAN AND A BOXER.

The history of most nations is encompassed with that coming-of-age moment, when the nation realises that they are not perfect, infallible or indeed any better than others. In the field of Finnish sports, this moment is crystallized in one iconic photograph: the European champion in Men’s 10,000 meters and Olympic Silver medallist from just few days prior, Martti Vainio stands in front of the press in 1984 Los Angeles Olympics, busted for doping. The tragic story of the fallen hero turns into a farce a bit later, when caretaker Alpo Nyrönen, Vainio’s neighbour is named as the scapegoat for the doping. Proper Aristotelian drama may have many twists and turns, but a caretaker luring an athlete god to the dark side of the track and the field certainly isn’t one of them. #Me Too Especially the history of Finnish summer sports is male-dominated. The first women participants in the Finnish Olympic team were seen already in 1912, when swimmers Regina Kari and Tyyne Järvi were eliminated in the qualifying rounds (probably because breaststroke didn’t prove to be a winning strategy in freestyle…). The 1920’s were dark times for female athletes: the National Women’s Championships in track and field were suppressed and the decision to have Women’s Track and Field in the Amsterdam Olympics met a lot of criticism in Finland. The inventor of Finnish Baseball and a renowned sports executive Lauri Pihkala even declared Women’s Track and Field to be but un-aesthetic buffoonery. The situation remained much the same until after the WW2. The first Finnish woman to celebrate her Olympic Gold was paddler Sylvi Saimo in 1952. After that, the Olympic gold was won by Heli Rantanen in javelin in 1996 and by Satu Mäkelä-Nummela in trap shooting in 2008. Lauri Pihkala would probably turn in his grave if he knew that Finland’s only medal in the Summer Olympics in 2016 was won by Mira Potkonen, a woman and a boxer. s Mira Potkonen.

Location at the medical center building Terveystalo Pulssi, Turku

FULL-SERVICE CAMERA STORE AND REPAIR CENTRE NOW ALSO SPECIALIZING IN MOBILE PHONE REPAIRS Also home to Finland’s largest vintage camera store and camera museum.

TURKU - HELSINKI - TAMPERE

www.jaskamerakauppa.fi Maariankatu 1 20100 TURKU Open Mon–Fri 9–17 Sat 10–15 Sales p. 010 292 3090 Service p. 010 292 3000

Mon-Fri: 8am. -8pm. Sat, Sun: 9am. -8pm.

Humalistonkatu 11, 20100 Turku | +358 2 233 6677

ON-CALL SERVICE OPEN EVERY DAY.

At Terveystalo it is fast and easy to see a physician even without an appointment. Our on-call service is open every day throughout the year, with a specialist in otorhinolaryngology, a specialist in pediatrics, a specialist in orthopedics and traumatology and a general practitioner on call. Come for a visit or call us!

QUICK ACCESS TO GOOD CARE

terveystalo.com

Humalistonkatu 9–11 Mon–Fri 8 a.m.–8 p.m. Sat–Sun 9 a.m.–8 p.m. tel. 030 6000*

Our customer service is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Calls from a landline phone 8.35 cents/call + 3.20 cents/minute, from a mobile phone 8.35 cents/call + 19.33 cents/minute.

11*

Delicious flavours and a good atmosphere for every occassion. Pippurimylly is a nostalgic family restaurant. We have been offering tasty steaks and pizzas since 1974.

Stålarminkatu 2, 20810 Turku / +358 2 277 3350 / www.pippurimylly.fi ma-pe 11-23 / la 12-23 / su 12-21

Restaurant Teini is a landmark in the local culinary history. Teini has been serving classic dishes in the historical Juselius Mansion since 1924. Let the nostalgic atmosphere enchant you.

Uudenmaankatu 1, 20500 Turku / +358 2 2330203 / www.ravintolateini.fi ma-pe 11-23 / la 12-23 / su 12-21

A cozy atmosphere, wide variety of beers, good wines and burgers. Everything is served in a fancy old factory setting next to the Aura river.

Läntinen Rantakatu 55, 20100 Turku / +358 2 2588000 / www.rantakerttu.fi ma-pe 11-22 / la 12-22 / su 12-19

Gastropub Löytö – laid-back place to enjoy a great burger and a pint or two – always in good company. Pop in! With us you won't feel lost.

Uudenmaankatu 1, 20500 Turku / +358 2 2330205 / www.gastropubloyto.fi ma-to 11-24 / pe 11-02 / la 14-02 / su 15-22

RAVANTIT STÅLARMINKATU 2, 20810 TURKU / PUH. +358 2 277 3350

SELECTED SERV IC ES AN D PLAC ES I N TU RKU AREA Locations are marked on the map (pages 16–17) with the numbers below.

Our advertisers are marked below with green text and on the map with a green, numbered dot.

Bars, Pubs, Cafés and Live Music

Bar4 ................................................30 Bowler ............................................28 Café Qwensel (Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House)... 221*|1 Café Villa Saaro (Ruissalo Island) ...........................25 Café Vimma ......................................... 286 Cup&Pint .............................................. 407 Fazer Café ............................. 627*|24 Fika Café ................................ 607*|31 Gastro-Pub Löytö ...................551*|11 Hugo ........................................................ 181 Papu Bar ........................................ 23 Teerenpeli ...................................... 18 Tiirikkala ................................ 598|13 Restaurants

Brewery Restaurant School (Koulu) ...........................................29 Cantina Azteca – Bar & Grill ....... 23 Dennis Ristorante ......................... 19 E. Ekblom ............................... 636|13 Fazer Kitchen & Cafe Stockmann ....................575*|24 Golden Grill ...................................27 Gustavo .......................................... 21 Göran Restaurant Forum Marinum ............................ 13 Hus Lindman .........................496*|31 Kakolanruusu ...............................22 Kaskis ......................................................630 KASVIS-ravintola (vegetarian restaurant) ......................530 Kerttu ......................................................179 Kuori (vegetarian restaurant) .620*|20 Lone Star – American Restaurant ........634*|32 Panini .......................................637|13 Pippurimylly .......................... 181*|11 Rantakerttu ........................... 482*|11 Roots Kitchen (vegetarian restaurant) .............................621*|20 Smör ........................................ 638|13 Teini ........................................551*|11

Map information marked with red dots is based on the database of Turun Aika Magazine.

Nightclubs

Apollo Live Club ................... 158*|32 Forte Nightclub .......................97*|32

Turku University Hospital First Aid and Emergency Services (In case of emergency, call 112) .............................276

Hotels & Hostels

Children and Families

See numbered blue dots 16–17 and 18.

on pages

Museums, Galleries and Exhibitions

Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova ................ 16 Biological Museum ............................219 Forum Marinum Maritime Centre... 12 Kylämäki – Village of Living History...222 Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum ..............220*|1 Old Great Square – several art galleries ......................... 157 Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House ....................... 221*|1 Sibelius-museum .......................... 15 Turku Castle and Historical Museum ................... 73*|1 Turku Art Museum ....................... 17 Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art..163*|1 Shopping

You will find the numbered green dot in each advertisement on the map on pages 16–17. Churches

St Catherine´s Church ...............68*|5 St Mary´s Church .....................205*|5 St Michael´s Church ..................76*|5 Turku Cathedral ...................... 69*|5 Other Services

Central Post Office of Turku ........... 270 Humalistonkatu Pharmacy ...........8 LOGOMO – Centre for Cultural, Creative and Business Events .........416 Terveystalo Medical Center ......... 10 Turku Concert Hall ...................60*|1 Turku Market Hall ........................26 Turku Market Square ..............................1 Turku City Library .................. 127*|1

For an accurate event calendar of Turku area, see www.turunaika.fi (in Finnish). 15

Adventure Park for Children and Families (Seikkailupuisto) ..... 162*|1 Sports

Impivaara Sports Centre ................... 631 Kupittaa Sports Center ........... 588*|1 Paavo Nurmi Athletic Track ........... 268 SuperPark– Indoor Activity Park ..6 Swimming

Caribian Spa (Holiday Club Caribia) .66 Ekvalla Beach – disability access (Satava Island) .........................587 Impivaara Public swimming pool....281 Ispoinen Beach ....................................583 Kupittaa Outdoor Swimming Arena...264 Saaronniemi Beach (Ruissalo Island)....582 Samppalinna Swimming Stadium...274 Transportation

Föri – Non-stop ferry across the river for pedestrians and cyclists....261 Kupittaa Railway Station ..................265 Local Traffic Service Office – Föli Turku Region Traffic....460*|14 Main Railway Station ......................... 271 Turku Airport .......................................275 Turku Bus Terminal .......................... 266

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Turku Times MapApp: www.turkutimes.fi

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Photo credits on page 23.

Vasa kings’ Game of Power touched also Finland

Written by Päivi Lönnberg, Curator, Museum Centre of Turku

ast year protestant countries commemorated the 500th anniversary of Reformation – a religious, political and cultural movement sparked by Martin Luther in Wittenberg in 1517. A great number of events were also held in Turku, one of them being the exhibition “Game of Power - Reformation in Finland” which can still be visited at Turku Castle. In Finland, the Eastern province of the kingdom of Sweden, the Reformation launched a period of change lasting for a hundred years. Religious issues became intertwined with a political power game played by the new ruling family, the Vasas. Throughout the 16th century, the Swedish kingdom was in search of religious orientation. At the time it was not clear whether the kingdom would in the end adopt the new Lutheran confession or return to Catholic faith. The events of the 16th century had a great impact locally.

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Turku on the threshold of Reformation

Sweden but in reality the adoption of the new confession turned out to be a century long process.

On the threshold of Reformation Turku was one of the largest towns in Sweden and had an important role as a centre of both secular and ecclesiastical administration of Finland. The quarters around Turku Cathedral served as a central location of administration of the Catholic church while the Castle represented the secular administration and king’s power. Turku was also an important school and commercial city. In 1510’s when protestant Reformation began spreading in Germany, life in Turku went on buzzling as usual. News of events from Central Europe certainly spread to the shores of River Aura since Turku had direct contacts over the Baltic to major Hanseatic towns and European universities, but it took some time and a new king before the Reformation was actually spread here. New era begins with King Gustav I Vasa Sweden joined the protestant movement after Gustav Eriksson was crowned king Gustav I Vasa in 1523. A new confession, Lutheranism, was adopted under the leadership of the king without reformist movements pushed and demanded by the people, like in the case of Germany. Gustav Vasa’s motives to launch the Reformation rose from his and his kingdom’s uncertain situation. He had detached Sweden from the Kalmar Union, a Danish-led alliance between Sweden, Denmark and Norway. Enormous amounts of money were lent from the Hanseatic city of Lübeck to fight a war against the Danes. Sweden was in heavy debt and the King saw a change to benefit from the new Protestant ideas that criticised the Church of having too much wealth and power. In order to cope with the loan to Lübeck and to strengthen king’s power, Gustav Vasa begun confiscating precious artefacts and other property and income from the church and monasteries. The confiscations and collection of extra taxes along with actions taken to weaken the churches power intensified after the meeting of the Swedish parliament, the so-called Diet of Västerås in 1527. The Diet also decided that only the pure Word of God should be preached in AN EVENT THAT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO GO UNNOTICED WAS THE DEMOLISHING OF AN ENTIRE BISHOP’S CASTLE TO RUINS.

Bishop’s power and castle are torn down What Gustav Vasa had started affected also the Diocese of Turku, which at that time covered the whole Finnish Peninsula. Confiscations that progressed from towns to more remote areas peaked in the 1550s. Parishes were normally allowed to keep only one chalice and one paten needed in the delivery of the service. The parishes’ financial situation became poorer and it was increasingly difficult to take care of the church buildings and interiors. An event that was impossible to go unnoticed was the demolishing of an entire Bishop’s castle to ruins. The Bishop of Turku, greatest and wealthiest man at that time had a castle close to Turku, in Kuusisto, Kaarina. Gustav Vasa ordered the castle to be demolished in 1528. Building material was taken to Turku Castle for renovation work. This event underlined the fact that the bishop and church had lost its power. It was the King who was the head of the church now and who also took the right to appoint loyal and reform-minded individuals to important ecclesiastical positions. Turku Castle nearly met the same faith as the bishop’s castle after Gustav Vasa visited Turku in 1530 and again in 1555–56. The King didn’t like the medieval style fortress and proposed demolishing and building a new castle elsewhere. Fortunately, these plans changed to renovating the castle to a renaissance style palace for Gustav Vasa’s son, duke Johan of Finland, later King Johan III. Princess Catherine Jagiellon and Counter Reformation Gustav Vasa died in 1560 and for a short time he was followed by King Erik XIV. He was dethroned in 1568. The next King, Johan III is one of the most famous characters of Turku Castle. While being the Duke of Finland, he married the Polish Princess Catherine Jagiellon in 1562. The newlywed couple lived in Turku Castle for about a year. In her marriage contract, Catherine was guaranteed the preservation of the Catholic confession and children to-be-born would be raised Catholics. In her castles, also in Turku, she had her own chapels and Catholic priests from Poland. Johan III was interested in developing a closer relationship with the Catholic Church in order to pave the way for his son Sigismund, born 1566, who was to become the king

About 250 objects from the 13th century to the 17th century from the collections of the Museum Centre of Turku, the Turku Cathedral Museum, the National Museum of Finland and the National Archive are on display at the exhibition Game of Power – Reformation in Finland at Turku Castle.

photos: Aleks Talve & Mikko Kyynäräinen, Museum Centre of Turku

photo: Ania Padzik, Museum Centre of Turku

Traces of Catholicism Traces of the Catholic times are still visible if you look around. There are many medieval stone churches in Finland and a large amount of statues of saints from these churches have survived. Catholic saints also live on in the Finnish and Swedish name day tradition that is based on the calendar of saints. Saints can also be seen on many coats of arms of Finnish communities. PHOTOS ON PAGE 20: Gustav I Vasa, copy of a portrait painted by Cornelius Arendtz in the 1540s. Photo: National Museum of Finland. Johan III, copy by S. Lagerbland of a portrait by Johan Babtista van Uther 1582. Photo: TMK/Aleks Talve Catherine Jagiellon, Lucas Cranach ca. 1565. Photo: Czartoryski Foundation, Cracow. Charles IX, copy by Aline Bernard of a portrait painted in 1550-1611. Photo: TMK/Pekka Kujanpää

both of Sweden and Poland. There was also another motive, the inheritance of Catherine Jagiellon’s grandmother, Bona Sforza. The inheritance was in Naples and Johan III hoped to receive even a small deal of the money in Sweden to fix financial shortage. Under these circumstances, the Pope hoped that Sweden would readopt the Catholic faith. Religious life of Sweden was influenced via Catherine Jagiellon and her sister, Anna, Queen of Poland. This phase known as missio Suetica, “mission in Sweden”, ended when Catherine Jagiellon died in 1583 and the inheritance Johan III had hoped to get slipped from his hands. Game of Power turns bloody

THAT FINLAND COULD BE RETURNED TO THE

SPHERE OF THE CATHOLIC CHURCH BY BECOMING A PART OF POLAND.

a condition for his coronation. The power struggle between Sigismund III and Duke Charles culminated in battles fought also in Finland. The Finnish part of the kingdom had remained loyal to Sigismund III after the death of Johan III. Duke Charles wanted to dethrone the king but the king’s position was being defended in Finland by Lord High Constable Klaus Fleming. At one point there was even an idea that Finland could be returned to the sphere of the Catholic church by becoming a part of Poland. This situation had a violent end. Duke Charles conquered Turku Castle and Finland in 1599 and local noblemen were beheaded at the Great Market Square in Turku. Duke Charles managed to become the leader of Sweden and he was crowned King Charles IX in 1607. The coronation of Charles IX put an end to the searching of religious orientation and Sweden and Finland became Lutheran countries. s

photo: Ania Padzik, Museum Centre of Turku

The death of Johan III in 1592 changed the course of events again. Sigismund III, the son of Johan III, was at this time already the king of Poland and would now ascend also to the Swedish throne. The re-establishment of Catholicism in Sweden appeared again possible and Sigismund III was seen as a threat. King Johan III’s brother, Duke Charles, took the lead in Lutheran resistance in Sweden. Lutheranism was declared the only permitted religion of the kingdom and Sigismund III was forced to accept this as

AT ONE POINT THERE WAS EVEN AN IDEA

TURKU CASTLE Visiting address: Linnankatu 80 Opening hours: Tue–Sun 10–18, summertime Mon–Sun 10–18 Entrance fees: 11 € adults, 5 € reduced ticket and children (7–15 yrs), 22 € family ticket More information: www.turku.fi/en/turkucastle Instagram: @turkucastle SEE REDNUMBER 73 ON MAP (PAGE 16).

Photos: city of turku

Turku timeline Written by Anna Eloaho

10 000 BCE

1562

1918

The ice age ends relatively late in Finland, around 12,000 years ago.

New inventions, trends and fashions reach Turku swiftly. Among them the habit of using both fork and knife. The first fork in Finland belongs to Catharina Jagiellon, the Polish princess who married Swedish prince John. Along with her fork she is said to have brought the Renaissance era to Turku Castle.

In 1918 the Swedish University of Turku, Åbo Akademi is established. It is the third university of Finland and the first one outside Helsinki.

3200 BCE Findings from the Stone Age show that there are hunters and gatherers in the Turku region already in ca. 3200 BCE, right after the land had risen from under the sea.

700 CE The cultural landscape of Finland Proper starts to develop during Iron Age, when people live by farming and rising cattle. The rivers are an important mean for transportation and trade. The roads start to form.

1229 In his letter to the Bishop of Lindköping, Pope Gregorius IX orders the Bishop’s seat in Nousiainen to be moved to a more appropriate place, ad locum competenciorem.

End of 1220’s The representatives of the Crown, the Catholic Church and the Dominican Order decide to establish a city on the east side of the river Aura to have a more appropriate place for episcobus Aboensis, the first Bishop of Turku.

1300 The Turku Cathedral is inaugurated in June in1300. Also the building of the Turku Castle had started by the end of the 13th century.

1500 By the late Middle Ages, Turku has developed into a bustling town and an important actor in international trade, as it has good connections to motherland Sweden, the Baltic and the major Hanseatic cities as well as Novgorod.

1500 By the end of the Middle Ages there are approximately 1500 inhabitants in Turku. The population of all of Finland at that time is ca. 100,000.

1640

1920 In 1920 the Finnish speaking University of Turku is established with funds collected in a public fund-raising with over 22,000 contributors.

The royal command of Queen Christina of Sweden establishes a university in Turku in 1640. The Royal Academy of Turku is the third university in all Sweden-Finland, the first two being Uppsala (1477) and Tartu (1632).

1939–1944

1732

1965

Industrialism reaches Turku. The first factories manufacture tobacco. The long line of building ships in Turku starts when the Åbo Gamla Skeppswarf is founded in 1732.

Turku decides to end the tram traffic by year 1972. The tracks, covering the central parts of the city are gradually dismantled. The later generations have considered this an ill decision and tram may well return to Turku in the future.

1800 By the beginning of the 19th century there are 10 000 people living in Turku, the population of Finland being ca. 1 million.

1812 Turku enjoys her position as the number one city of the country until 1812, when Helsinki is made the new capital and the administrative center of the Grand Duchy of Finland, at that time part of Russia.

Turku suffers great damages in the World War II. Even the Turku Castle is bombed.

1970’s A more visible trend of decision-making in the 1960’s and 1970’s is to demolish old buildings and replace them with modern blockhouses. The demolishing epidemic is known as the Turku disease. The current tendency is to preserve buildings form 19th century and the beginning of 20th.

2011

1827 A major blow to the academic position of Turku is given by the Grand Duke, the Russian Emperor Alexander I, who transfers the Academy to the new capital after the Great Fire of Turku in 1827.

1880 Turku is the first city in Finland to have a horse-drawn tramline.

1917 Finland declares its independent on December the 6th in 1917. 24

Turku, along with Tallinn in Estonia is the European Cultural Capital in 2011.

2018 In 2018 Turku is the sixth biggest city of Finland with its 190,000 inhabitants. The population of Finland is 5.5 million. Turku is officially a bilingual city: a little over 5% of inhabitants speak Swedish as their mother tongue. Today there are three universities and four universities of applied sciences in Turku. Together, they have 30,000 degree and post-graduate degree students. s

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Reading the

Finnish mind Written by Pauliina Eriksson Translated by Anna Eloaho

Have you ever pondered what the Finns are like? What is the Finnish sense of humour like, what makes a Finn weep, how do Finns see the world? The literary tradition is strong in Finland. The headway of literary works written and published in Finnish language began in the late 19th century and nowadays this small country with its 5,5 million inhabitants is the second biggest publisher of books in the world per capita. Is it possible to get a grip of this nation by reading books? Author and teacher of Finnish language and literature Tommi Kinnunen recommends reading for anyone interested in foreign cultures. He emphasizes that literature does not merge from emptiness but “reflects the society and the social situation of a certain region, country or continent”. Through literature a reader gains an opportunity to get to know new cultures, certain geographical regions or specific epochs. Seven Brothers by Aleksis Kivi, considered to be the first significant novel written in Finnish language, is the ultimate classic of the Finnish literature. With seven brothers as protagonists, the bildnungsroman tells the tale of seven freedom-loving and uncivilized village youth to respectable members of society. Kivi’s novel is often among the first ones mentioned when Finnish literature is introduced and it has been translated to numerous languages. Kinnunen, however, doesn’t recommend a foreign reader to start from a classic. According to him the classics do give an accurate account of how the Finnish culture has developed from the past to our days, yet he recommends to start from a more contemporary work. Whereas Seven Brothers is set in an agricultural era, the awarded author Kjell Westö is known for his novels set in an urban environment, more specifically Helsinki. His works, too, have been translated widely. However, there is one interesting phenomenon Kinnunen wants to bring about when Finnish literary classics are discussed. The tradition of strong women within Finnish literature can be traced

throughout the tradition, starting from the national epic the Kalevala, all through the plays by Hella Wuolijoki depicting ordinary people and continuing to the contemporary works such as The Midwife by Katja Kettu. Also children’s literature is widely read and published in Finland. The Finnish kids love Tatu and Patu series by Aino Havukainen and Sami Toivonen, with two wacky brothers from Oddville as protagonists. Tommi Kinnunen recommends Me Rosvolat series by Siri Kolu as an example of an anarchist approach within the children’s book genre. Kinnunen emphasizes the meaning of literature in understanding phenomena that might otherwise be difficult to grasp. He gives being silent as an example of this and defines it as the ability of the Finnish people to feel relaxed in company without saying a word. “One doesn’t need to be distressed about being silent in Finland” he says. Yet another good example of specifically Finnish phenomenon is the dark, laconic and often bizarre humour of Arto Paasilinna’s novels. Got interested? There is a good selection of Finnish fiction available at the bookstores. Seven Brothers, the Kalevala and The Midwife can be found in bookstores in English, German or Russian. Kjell Westö’s novels, too, have been translated to German. Tatu and Patu books are available for kids in English and in German. Arto Paasilinna’s humour is available for those reading in French. The path to the Finnish mind is open. s

Tommi Kinnunen.

photo: Suvi-Tuuli Kankaanpää / WSOY

Silence in Finnish literature "Tuomas eyes the old childhood playgrounds from the cottage roof top. […] Tapio sits by his side on the ridge and together they share a silent moment only brothers can have. The other one is looking at the lake and the other knows him to be counting the number of new cottages hiding behind the pine trees on the opposite shore. The other one glances at his side, which is enough to tell his brother that he is pondering the state of the dried up grey pine tree. Without saying a word, without looking at each other they both come to the conclusion that it should be felled and cut to firewood." Tommi Kinnunen: The Light Behind the Eyes (Lopotti). WSOY 2016. 26

20*

M E D I T E R R A N E A N D E L I C AC I E S BY T H E R I V E R S I D E

Plant based power stations

La Jabuquena Serrano Reserva, Calamares Fritos & hummus

Roots Kitchen Turun Kauppahalli “Lunch and brunch!” www.rootskitchen.fi

Kuori Hämeenkatu 8 “New evening menu!” www.ravintolakuori.fi

Restaurant Gustavo invites you to enjoy Mediterranean specialties with a Scandinavian twist! • Lunch • Dinner • Naples style pizza • Wines & snacks • Meetings & events Reservations and information: www.gustavo.fi/en • Tel. +358 46 9222 488 Linnankatu 1, Turku

Restaurant Gustavo

Muy bueno

FOOD! Ancient food culture is made for today’s needs. It is easy going, rich and full of flavour.

Kakolanruusu is a restaurant in one of the most unique environments in Finland - the old Kakola prison.

Welcomae! to kakol

Book your table: www.kakolanruusu.fi p. +358 44 223 0200

Opening hours: Tues–Fri 4pm – till Sat 2pm till late.

Papu is fun and casual cocktail bar. Doors are open every Friday and Saturday between 20-02.

Cantina Azteca - Mexican Bar & Grill, Eerikinkatu 8, 20100 Turku. Open: Mon-Thu 15-23, Friday 15-24, Saturday 13-24, Sunday 13-23

TURKU TI MES

COLUMN

Dining with dad

In the morning I got some homecoming gifts from the market square and headed back to the station. The conductor’s gaze was thoughtful: didn’t she just arrive yesterday afternoon and now already going back. A restless soul. On the train back home I polished my ideas from day before, adding things and filling up gaps. On arrival to Helsinki I had a road map ready on what kind of book I was about to write and how I should proceed. The book was published two years later. I visit Tampere often for work. The staff at my favourite hotel never fails to ask how I’m doing, I always bump into friends over breakfast and at Christmas time a gift from the hotel awaits me in my room. As I return tired to the hotel after the workday, I’m as relieved to return there as I would be returning home. After being served my dinner I retire to my room with a good conscience, put on my pyjamas and become the true unsocial me. I don’t have a TV at home, so in a hotel I hop from one channel to another, usually in awe and wonder. The crime series puzzle me most. Why do the police in demanding field work run around in so very unpractical clothes, men in suit jackets and women in high heels? When the officials charge into a suspicious flat, the uniforms all have their helmets on but the detectives lead the forces bareheaded. Inside the flat they never switch on the lights, but fidget about in the dark with their flashlights. The bambi-like female constables always want to go and search the dodgy industrial premises by themselves, they never wait for the upcoming reinforcements. And of course all the police must all the time confront the rules as well as their negligent bosses. I wouldn’t want to be a TV-detective, I muse, reaching out for more chocolate. This postulant crime consultant rests on her hotel bed and gives advice to the TV-screen. And is thoroughly happy. Suddenly I remember my dad’s trips to the monastery. My dad is no longer with us. Only now do I understand him. s

Anna Kortelainen (PhD) is an author, scholar and art historian. Her works include both fiction and nonfiction. Many of her works deal with art history as well as women’s history. Her next book is a biography of the patron of arts and businesswoman Sara Hildén and will be published in September 2018. Kortelainen lives in Helsinki.

Photo: Marek Sabogal

When I was young I didn’t quite grasp the point in my father’s annual spring retreat to the New Valamo Monastery in Heinävesi. He booked a modest room with full board, packed along a few books and stayed at the monastery for the long weekend. He lay on the bed of his cell, read his books in the complete silence and had his meals in the monastery canteen. Why he did that, I didn’t quite understand. A month ago I booked a hotel room in Riihimäki, rather close to my hometown Helsinki, packed along a nearly finished manuscript and headed for the train station. Upon my arrival to the hotel room I was pleased to see that everything was according to my wishes: there was a sauna and even a whirlpool bathtub. A glance at the room made me think that it would rank high among the newly weds: a pair of swans made of white towels lay at the foot of the bed. I noticed that the tall mirror on the wall made me look slimmer. Now that’s a mirror I’d like to have at home. All afternoon and evening I went through my manuscript, editing unnecessary fillings and repetition, spicing and spiking up my text. I played my favourite music, enjoyed my packed lunch, made instant coffee using the water boiler of the room. Everything tasted heavenly. Not even the cuddling swans could make me feel lonely, because the characters of my script took over the room, conquered the couch and peeked out into the darkening small town evening from my hotel room window. Finally, around ten in the evening I turned off my laptop, switched on the sauna and ran myself a bath. Sitting on the bench of the sauna, my feeling of happiness could not have been more complete. No one really knew where I was, only I did. A few years back I got myself a train ticket from Helsinki all the way to Kainuu, to Kajaani. I sat by my laptop on the train for six hours, accompanied by my packed lunch, ordering more coffee from the mini bar trolley every now and then. I wrote and contemplated, at the same time listening to peaceful music from my headphones. By and by, I was commencing a new book by making charts and diagrams. The snowy landscapes flickered behind the train window, the speed of the train made the snow dust fly. People came and went, but I was cosy in my own bubble, flying on the back of the wind across Finland. When the train arrived to Kajaani, the framework for the new script was drafted. I got a room from a cosy little hotel that reminded me of the sports training centres of the 1970’s. I stood by the hotel room window and admired the shimmering ice deck of the river Kajaani and the twinkling stars. I had a sturdy local meal at the hotel restaurant and looked at the numerous talkative parties around me. I was an outsider and I was pleased.

Written by Anna Kortelainen Translated by Anna Eloaho

24*

TIME TO RELAX AND ENJOY!

Something good for the day

You will find us on the second floor at Stockmann, Hansakortteli. Grill is open daily, and we serve delicious cakes and good coffee as well as lunch and sandwiches.

Fresh smell of coffee, delicious cakes and tasty sandwiches. All this and more you will find just next to market place, at Hansakortteli.

Fazer Café Aurakatu 10, Turku Mon - Fri 07:30 - 20:00 Sat 09:00 - 20:00 Sun 10:00 - 18:00

Stockmann, 2nd floor, Kristiinankatu 11, Turku

Bus line 8 from city center

H I G H L I G H T S Y O U R S U M M E R D AY

Villa Saaro Café and Restaurant serves delicious meals à la carte and a tasty salad buffet. Also take-away. Open daily from May 1st to August 31st

www.harito.fi

Villa Saaro | Saarontie 59, 20100 Turku | Tel. 0440 225 443

Mon - Fri 09:00 - 20:00 Sat 09:00 - 19:00 Sun 11:00 - 18:00

Bowlbionagrd le shuff leeroom p

esca p burgers&Craftbeer

Yliopistonkatu 29 Turku • www.bowler.fi 29

Brewery restaurant School (Koulu) is one of Finland´s largest restaurant breweries.

BEST BEER AND FOOD IN TOWN

On the first floor is the Wine room, with dining possibility, a History classroom, the Brewery Pub as well as the brewery itself. During weekdays we serve tasty home-made lunch from the buffet. In the Brewery Pub craft brewed beers and ciders from our own brewery and a diverse selection of quality whiskies are served. On the Wine room´s wine list is about 80 quality wines, several of them are also served by glass.

Hansa shopping center

AURAKATU

KRISTIINANKATU

in Brewery-restaurant Koulu

YLIOPISTONKATU - WALKING STREET

Market square

EERIKINKATU Breweryrestaurant Koulu

www. panimoravintolakoulu.fi

Eerikinkatu 18, Puh. (02) 274 5757

31*

32*

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