Mobile Bay Magazine - April 2017

Mobile Bay THE LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE FOR MOBILE AND BALDWIN COUNTIES

THE FRESH ISSUE

Freshest Catch!

RESTAURANT MOGUL JOHNNY FISHER DISHES UP FOOLPROOF GRILLED FISH RIGHT ON THE WHARF

HARBOR

CHIC Sophisticated ensembles for unwinding on the water

+

A GUYS’ GUIDE TO PREPPY PASTEL WEARS FOR SPRING

EUREKA!

Discover some of the greatest modern inventions and the Mobilians who coined them

April 2017

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FEATURES BLUE HALTER BLOUSE WITH BOW (CMEO COLLECTIVE, CK COLLECTION), WHITE CAPRI PANTS (JBRAND, CK COLLECTION), SUNGLASSES (QUAY AUSTRALIA, SWAY). PHOTO BY WENDY WILSON

APRIL 2017

44

VOLUME XXXIII / ISSUE 4

44 Haute High Seas Ahoy! Spring and summer are seasons for hopping on a boat and sailing on the Bay. Look great on the water in these stylish looks.

53 Wholesome Eats This fish doesn’t get any fresher. Local fisherman and restaurateur Johnny Fisher reveals his secrets for delicate, savory whole grilled fish.

62 Eureka!

Did you know that some of the most famous inventions were born right here in the Mobile Bay area? You may be surprised at what’s on MB’s list.

ON OUR COVER

Mobile Bay The lifesTyle magazine for mobile and baldwin counTies

April 2017

The fresh issue

Freshest Catch!

resTauranT mogul Johnny fisher dishes up foolproof grilled fish righT on The wharf

HArbor

CHiC Sophisticated ensembles for unwinding on the water

+

a guys’ guide To preppy pasTel wears for spring

eureka!

discover some of the greatest modern inventions and the mobilians who coined them

Cooking your whole catch doesn’t have to be intimidating.

Restaurateur Johnny Fisher and Chef Bill Briand share how to prepare this delish dish.

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

 You’ve probably heard of Horace Hunley, whose Mobile-constructed submarine was the first to sink an enemy vessel. But did you know that another man thought it possible to break the Union blockade from the sky? Read about Mobile’s most interesting inventions, page 62.

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DEPARTMENTS APRIL 2017

VOLUME XXXIII / ISSUE 4

34

32 LEFT Usher in the springtime with these locally sourced, colorful men’s fashion options. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU RIGHT Chuck’s Fish takes Dauphin Street by storm, combining Pacific-inspired fare with a touch of vintage Mobile. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

11 11 12 14 16

Editor’s Note On the Web Reaction Odds & Ends Elemental

Feelin’ Blue In Lower Alabama, feeling crabby isn’t always a bad thing.

18 Gumbo Turkey Tales Too

Exciting yarns of bravery and strength during turkey season 23 Amazing Life Mark McCullins His head’s always been in the clouds, and now he’s truly there.

28 Spotlight Robin Wallace In this case, baseball diamonds are a girl’s best friend.

32 Good Stuff A Colorful Chap Springtime means great deals on dapper attire. From swim trunks to blazers and bowties, MB has got the men covered this season.

34 Tastings Chuck’s Fish

Patrons come for the fresh sushi and stay for that vintage Mobile ambience.

36 Bay Tables A Verdant Table

Explore your spice rack and try some new flavors on for size. This month, MB takes you on a tour of delectable cooking with herbs.

42 The Dish

Four locals share their favorite meals they ate this month.

74 Bay Boy Batter Up! A reluctant Watt Key takes to the baseball diamond with friends and a mysterious coach.

76 Ask McGehee What is the history of the Ezell House on Conti Street?

The exquisite home was custom built by a Mobile grocer.

78 In Living Color Bathing Beauties, 1923 Beauty pageant contestants relax on the sands of the Gulf Coast.

OUT & ABOUT

68 Highlights 70 On Stage & Exhibits 72 May Highlights

 Think you’ve got the nerve to board an airplane for its first flight? Meet Mark McCullins, Airbus’s test pilot, in Amazing Life, page 23.

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Mobile Bay o VOLUME XXXIII

N 4

APRIL 2017

PUBLISHER T. J. Potts

ASSISTANT PUBLISHER

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

COPY EDITOR

STAFF WRITER

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

ART DIRECTOR

WEB PRODUCER

M ARKETING COORDINATOR

Stephen Potts Judy Culbreth Lawren Largue Breck Pappas Chelsea Adams Marie Katz Laurie Kilpatrick Abby Parrott Maggie Lacey

ADVERTISING

SALES MANAGER

Joseph A. Hyland

Adelaide Smith McAleer

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

ADMINISTRATION CIRCULATION Anita Miller ACCOUNTING Jody Chandler

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Nedra Bloom, Mallory Boykin, Watt Key, Tom McGehee CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Matthew Coughlin, Todd Douglas, Chip English, Elizabeth Gelineau, Michael Mastro, Wendy Wilson ADVERTISING AND EDITORIAL OFFICES

3729 Cottage Hill Road, Suite H Mobile, AL 36609-6500 251-473-6269 Subscription rate is $21.95 per year.

Subscription inquiries and all remittances should be sent to: Mobile Bay P.O. Box 923773 Norcross, GA 30010-3773 1-855-357-3137 MOVING? Please note: U.S. Postal Service will not forward magazines mailed through their bulk mail unit.

Please send old label along with your new address four to six weeks prior to moving.

Mobile Bay is published 12 times per year for the Gulf Coast area. All contents © 2017 by PMT Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of the contents without written permission is prohibited. Comments written in this magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the ownership or the management of Mobile Bay. This magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photography or artwork. All submissions will be edited for length, clarity and style.

PUBLISHED BY PMT PUBLISHING INC .

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EDITOR’S NOTE BEHIND THE STORIES

L

Spring is in the Air

ast night, temperatures dropped to freezing — in mid-March! The MB staff arrived in our winter coats, proclaiming, “Hurry up, spring!” All in all, however, aside from this one last chilly spell, it has been a particularly mild Gulf Coast winter, and we’re not complaining.

For almost 20 years, the Mobile Bay editorial calendar has featured a May swimsuit and summer fashion issue. Well, this year, the weather seemed to dictate a change. While temps climbed, we shuffled stories. So this April, MB presents the freshest styles for warm-weather fashion. For the nautical inspired shoot aboard the swanky Schooner Joshua, Maggie Lacey pulled chic stripes in shades of blue, navy and plenty of classic neutrals (think summer in the Hamptons). While art director Laurie Kilpatrick and copy editor Chelsea Adams manned the ship and the shoot, photographer Wendy Wilson captured the looks, beginning on page 44.

Also this month, MB shares plenty of delicious eats to enjoy seaside. In “Wholesome Eats,” restaurateur Johnny Fisher, of Fisher’s at Orange Beach Marina, and his talented crew prepare whole grilled fish out on the wharf. (One of their masterpieces graces this month’s cover.) Flip over to page 53 to find plenty of tips for you to recreate this and other impressive seafood fare at home. Plus, in Elemental, page 16, Breck Pappas enlightens us on one of the coolest creatures to call our waters home: the blue crab. (Hint: Grab your nets! Soft-shell season is upon us. Hooray!)

Now that our one last cold front is moving on through, let’s slip on the sandals, grab a cold beverage and enjoy chilling out in the great Lower Alabama fresh air.

WHAT’S ONLINE

Get even more local coverage this month on mobilebaymag.com.

Here’s what’s new!

Beach Eats Headed to the beach for spring break? Go online for a rundown of the best local eats to try on your way over the Bay.

Spring Fest Preview From music to food to arts and crafts, we round up the top upcoming festivals you must add to your calendar.

Party Pics Let us know about your event.

Go online to fill out the Party Pics registration form and submit your event photos to be featured in a gallery on the Web.

Join Our List

ABOVE LEFT Good thing Maggie Lacey isn’t afraid of heights! She climbed the chains to help the crew get the perfect shot.

ABOVE MIDDLE Here, models Rosemary Corte, Iz Head and Casey Martin are decked out in some of our favorite looks of the day. Many thanks to Captain Carol Bramblett and the staff of the Grand Hotel for a picture-perfect location!

ABOVE RIGHT Unfortunately, the Bay waters were too choppy to take the boat out to sea, but otherwise, the weather cooperated for photographer Wendy Wilson on the early March photo shoot.

PHOTOS BY CHELSEA ADAMS

Lawren Largue, EXECUTIVE EDITOR, lawren@pmtpublishing.com

Get the latest in fashion, food, art and events delivered right to your inbox. Visit mobilebaymag.com to sign up for our email list.

Here Comes the Bride Recently engaged? Share your proposal story, some details about the big day and send a picture of the happy couple, and we’ll feature it online – for free! Also, pick up a copy of the 2017 Mobile Bay Bride on stands now.

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PHOTO BY MATTHEW COUGHLIN

REACTION

HATS OFF TO YOU! On February’s cover Fabulous cover!

- Devon Walsh, WKRG news anchor Cover = - Mobile Fashion Week

CLASSIC AND ELEGANT On February’s “Fresh Crop of Florals” Love all of these fashions.

Absolutely gorgeous!

- Charlotte Austin Ball Love them! It’s what ladies should be wearing instead of being half naked.

- Maggie Lindebaum

ONE EYE ON THE PAST On February’s “Urban Reclaimed” How cool. Too bad many other old buildings and homes went the way of the wrecking ball before historic preservation became a good idea.

- Hartley King It’s wonderful to see a community embrace its history. They don’t build them like this anymore.

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PHOTOS BY MICHAEL MASTRO

KITTRELL-MILLING BUILDING NASH/FORD BUILDING

CORRECTION In the February issue, in the story “Urban Reclaimed,” the Nash/Ford and Kittrell/ Milling building photos were inadvertently flip flopped. Both structures are undergoing revitalization in Downtown Mobile.

STREET SMARTS On February’s “In the Neighborhood” Japonica Lane on Dauphin Street is the happiest street in Mobile. If you’ve ever been down it, you know what I mean.

- Gregory D. Spruill Even before I was a realtor with Bellator Real Estate, I often showed newly married couples around these streets. I would also add Florence Place, Grand Boulevard, Silverwood and Bienville. Here’s a tip: Make your street great by scheduling regular events with your neighbors.

- Christy Wilby Gustin Surprised none of the “dead-end” streets off Dauphin in Midtown made the list: Japonica, Audubon, Benedict, Elizabeth, Felder.

- Patrick Byrne All great streets! But any top 10 list that doesn’t include Georgia Avenue is incomplete.

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text by CHELSEA ADAMS

POP QUIZ

SAY WHAT?

COMPLIMENTARY NOMENCLATURE

“Most of the failures of this world are failures of imagination.”

Which Mobile Bay animal’s Latin name means “savory beautiful swimmer”?

A. Blue crab B. Red snapper

— ROBER INMAN, author and noted journalist from Elba, Alabama, in his novel “Home Fires Burning”

C. White shrimp

Mobile certainly does not lack imagination, and it never has. Meet some of our city’s greatest minds and inventors in “Eureka!”, page 62.

Ready for the answer? Check out Elemental, page 16, to see which animal is feeling flattered.

D. Oysters

MILLER REESE HUTCHISON, RIGHT, MONTROSE NATIVE AND INVENTOR OF THE KLAXON HORN, WITH THOMAS EDISON. COURTESY OF LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

THIS MONTH IN HISTORY

APRIL 13, 1954

WHAT’S THE DEAL?

A FISHY SITUATION Most people know what caviar is — fish eggs. But not just any fish eggs will fetch a high price like caviar. These delicacies are, specifically, the cured eggs from sturgeon in the Black and Caspian seas. (So sorry, but the bright orange fish eggs atop your sushi don’t count.) Cleaned to remove any undesirable membranes and fat, then seasoned with non-iodized salt, the tiny black spheres have been a status symbol for the wealthy elite since Ancient Roman times. So don’t live (and eat) in fear of the fish eggs. Next time you’re offered a bite, give it a try!

Most people eat their fish by the fillet, but did you know it’s just as good — if not better — when served whole? Swim over to “Wholesome Eats,” page 53, for an inside look at how to prepare the whole fish dish.

Mobile’s Hank Aaron makes his Major League debut playing for the Milwaukee Braves. He was hitless in that inaugural game, but that didn’t stop him from an absolutely stellar career in baseball. He holds the record for most runs batted in, and he broke Babe Ruth’s homerun mark, a record that stood for more than three decades.

Baseball isn’t just a sport for the men.

In Spotlight, page 29, meet Robin Wallace, one of the few female MLB scouts and a lifelong lover of the game.

STUDIES SHOW

Alabamians know their way around a spice rack and aren’t afraid to experiment with new flavors. But did you ever think about the ways your spices and herbs could be improving your health? Besides helping at-home cooks cut back on salt, fat, sugar or butter, certain herbs have been shown to boost immunity and help promote overall wellness. Garlic, for instance, can help reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease and stroke by lowering LDL cholesterol, according to the paper “Health-promoting Properties of Common Herbs” by Winston J. Craig, a dietitian and nutrition expert.

Additionally, herbs such as rosemary, thyme, chamomile and sage are classified as flavenoids, which promote health in a number of ways, including “extending the activity of vitamin C, ... and acting as anti-inflammatory and antitumor agents.”

Can’t think of new, exciting ways to utilize your spice cabinet or herb garden? Then you’ll love MB’s guide to cooking with herbs! Check out Bay Tables, page 36.

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PHOTO BY TODD DOUGLAS

ADDING SOME SPICE TO LIFE

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ELEMENTAL

Feelin’ Blue text by BRECK PAPPAS

T

he scientific name for the blue crab, Callinectes sapidus, is Latin for “savory beautiful swimmer.” Talk about hitting a nail on the head. The decapod — or 10-legged — crab is native to the Gulf of Mexico and western Atlantic Ocean

and, luckily for us, spends most of its life in the brackish waters of bays and estuaries.

There are few sea critters that capture a Mobilian’s heart, from cradle to grave, like the blue crab. When one scuttled across the wet sand, we, as children,

scuttled after it. When the stars align and produce the soft-shell variety, we, as adults, can’t help but order up a few for the table (with a side of West Indies salad, of course). Learn what makes these homegrown bottom-feeders such darn savory, beautiful swimmers.

SURF AND TURF The omnivorous blue crab feeds on just about everything it can find, dead or alive.

This usually includes oysters, smaller crustaceans, snails, small fish, plants, carrion (animal flesh) and even smaller blue crabs. And you thought Mobilians had mastered the seafood buffet …

A PINCH OF COLOR The crab’s green-blue color comes from the interaction of a protein called alphacrustacyanin with a red pigment called astaxanthin.

During the cooking process, the heat breaks down the alpha-crustacyanin, leaving behind just the red pigment.

SHOW SOME SKIN A blue crab’s shell does not expand, so it’s necessary for them to molt, or shed, their existing shell in order to produce a larger exoskeleton. After the outer shell splits, the new exoskeleton is soft for a short period of time, making the crab particularly vulnerable to predators looking for soft-shell crab. This includes you and your favorite Causeway restaurant.

KNOW YOUR CRABMEAT “Jumbo lump” is the premium grade crabmeat, consisting of whole lumps of meat from the two large muscles connected to the fins; “backfin” is a blend of jumbo lump and some broken body meat; “special” or “white” meat is made up of smaller pieces of body meat; “claw” meat is picked from the legs and has a stronger, sweeter flavor. Is it lunchtime yet?

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ROW, ROW, ROW YOUR CRAB Blue crabs can reach a shell width of 9 inches and are surprisingly good swimmers, with rear legs shaped like canoe paddles.

A CRABBY HISTORY A grumpy old man enters a seafood restaurant. “You serve crabs here?” he growls at a waitress.

“Yes, sir. We serve everyone,” she says.

“Take a seat.” ◗ Of the 1,200 known species of crab, more than 60 can be found in Alabama waters. However, the blue crab, eight species of which exist in the Gulf of Mexico, is Alabama’s only crab of commercial significance. ◗ Commercial crabbing in the Gulf was first reported around 1880, with fishermen using simple tools and crabbing methods such as drop nets and long-handled dip nets. The blue crab’s tendency to spoil quickly was a major hurdle for early fishermen, hindering industry growth for several decades. ◗ The most productive blue crab fisheries are located in the Gulf of Mexico and the Chesapeake Bay, which has experienced a sharp decline in crab population due to overfishing and disease outbreaks. As a result, a significant portion of the Gulf’s blue crab catch is shipped to Maryland to meet the state’s constant demand. ◗ “You can find blue crab at any time of the year, but the peak season is the summer and into the fall,” says Hunter Omainsky, marketing director at Wintzell’s Oyster House. “Soft-shell crab is typically seen more often in the spring.” ◗ Blue crabs play an important role in managing the populations of animals they prey on. Therefore, overfishing the crabby crawlers can have a far-reaching impact on the ecosystem. For this reason, crabbing is restricted in some areas of the Delta, creating a nursery for the decapods to mature before moving into the Bay, where they can be harvested. MB

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GUMBO

Turkey Tales Too An annual turkey hunt proves that you don’t need to bag a first-place turkey to tell a first-place story. text and photos by STEPHEN POTTS

T

he thing about turkey hunting is you never return from the woods completely emptyhanded. Birdless, sure, but always carrying a tale of the hunt, however embellished.

One group of Mobilians has turned this storytelling aspect into the main event of an annual turkey hunt, the Palmer Bedsole Turkey Jamboree. For the last 17 springs, these hunters have gathered in the southern Alabama woods for a friendly competition to see who can bag the top gobbler. The rules, simple and loosely enforced, are set forth by one of the Jamboree’s emcees and organizers, Dr. Albert Haas: 1. Hunters must not use decoys or bait (“Corn is not bait; it’s survival!” claims one hunter).

2. Hunters must have their gobblers to the judges by 11 a.m. sharp.

3. Hunters must hunt in pairs and stay together.

4. Hunters will receive no special dispensation (except for hunter/caterer Clifton Morrissette, who has been charged with providing food for the weekend, which includes fried shrimp,

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West Indies salad, Conecuh sausage, crawfish and lamb chops).

Judges decide the winners using a complex formula that considers the turkey’s weight, spur length and beard length. Once the birds are measured, each team gives the group a recap of their hunt. Heckling, accusations, name-calling and laughter ensue.

One of the more formidable teams, comprised of Jeff Weston and Warren Butler, has been hunting the Jamboree together for over 10 years and, according to their own records, has come in second every year. “Weston and Butler are both in excellent shape, so they can get around well,” says John Hardin, one of this year’s judges. “And they have access to some of the best land. They always seem to place or show.” In a year in which the Cubs would win the World Series, was it possible that Weston and Butler would finally get over the hump? Their tale:

gobbling. I patiently wait for mine to gobble, like 45 seconds. Nothing. So I haul ass to Albert’s area and jump up in there. I end up with two birds at 50 yards gobbling and strutting and two at 75 yards gobbling and strutting. I’m looking at all four of ’em. Safety’s off, but I never got a clear shot. I told Butler this’d probably be a good place to start this morning.

Warren Butler: It was a mile or more of miserable walking to get to the spot where we thought they were. So this morning, we trek our ass all the way in there and sit our ass down, and man, it’s perfect. It’s quiet.

It’s gobblin’ time, and we don’t hear a thing. And so I’m all pissed off at him for making me go. I said, “Man, this is what you get for poaching on Albert. This is the turkey gods messing with us.” I said, “We’re screwed.” And as we’re going back to the truck, I kid you not…

Weston: He bitches at me a lot…

Jeff Weston: Earlier this week, Albert Haas and I went down to this property with a big, giant ravine divided by a creek. I was on one side, and Albert was on the other. Turkeys on his side started

Butler: Oh, I’m chewin’ his ass from the get-go for screwing me on the Jamboree.

So we’re going back to the truck, and I see the freshest turkey tracks I’ve ever seen in my life.

ABOVE Dr. Albert Haas organized the first Jamboree in 1999, a knock-off of his friend Walter Tutt’s version of the competition. It was later named the Palmer Bedsole Turkey Jamboree, following the passing of the former winner and expert tale-teller. “I may have started it, but the Morrissettes carried the day for years. Then Whitney Bank and Tommy Weller helped keep it going,” Haas says.

“Ma’an Adams, Jeff (Weston) and Warren (Butler) do all the heavy lifting now.” Left to right: Bo Cross, Angus Cooper, Warren Butler, Palmer Whiting, Frank Lott, Jeff Weston, Russell Dickson and Paul Dickson.

Weston: Because it rained yesterday.

Butler: So I just stopped walking, but he kept going to the truck. We’re not even talking by now, we’re so mad at each other. I call, and the turkey gobbles directly over the hill. I immediately stop and set up. Well you know jackass Weston. He just runs around in front of me. And he sits down and says, “Go ahead, start calling.”

I call but get nothing. So I’m like, “You spooked him!” and now we’re not talking again. So we get back in the truck, and we haul ass.

When the weather warms from winter to spring, the toms will chase hens like sailors on leave in Rio. The gobblers gobble to let the girls know where they are and to establish territory. They strut, wings lowered to the ground and tail feathers fanned out. Chicks dig plumage.

The birds will roost in trees, their gobbles carrying over a mile. The challenge for the hunter is to figure out where the turkey roosts, then get within shotgun range of where he thinks they’re going to fly down, if he can make a call that the tom believes more than a natural hen.

“You’ve got to seduce them,” Hardin says of tracking the majestic bird. “You’ve got to sound right and sneak right.”

hit that thing, and that gobbler answers us straight across the bottom. Weston says, “We gotta get across this stream.”

We jump across the creek and he says, “You go that way, I’m going this way.”

I take two steps before I realize, Wait, I’m going away from the damn bird. He darts forward about 35 yards, and he sits down. And I’m thinking, What the hell?

Weston: My son Fuller and I had hunted another turkey a couple of weeks ago, so we decided to go back to that spot.

Butler: I’m up the hill, looking down.

Jeff is directly between me and the turkey. I call one more time, and the bird answers. He’s a lot closer and I’m thinking, We’re in the game. I’m up on the hill looking down at Jeff and this beautiful creek bottom. Next thing I know, it gets quiet, and I see this white spark jump across the creek. I was like, “Damn, was that the turkey’s head?” It

Butler: We get there and make a call at this little green field, and this turkey answers us way down in the bottom.

And man, it’s a perfect burn. They’d just pushed out the burn lanes, so we run down this thing, and we hit this creek. So I pulled out my box call and I

Weston: Hold on now, I’ve watched him miss seven turkeys in the last three years. Seven turkeys! So I go far away — he couldn’t shoot over your shoulder.

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“You’ve got to seduce them,” Hardin says of tracking the majestic bird. “You’ve got to sound right and sneak right.”

was the whitest turkey I’ve ever seen.

I wasn’t quite sure it was a turkey it was so white.

Weston: If you think it was white for him, that gobbler was 21 steps away when he jumped across the creek from me. Unbelievable.

Butler: So he jumps across the creek, and I’m looking down. And all of a sudden, I see Jeff tense up. I see that white head coming. Jeff shoots and it folds him, and we run up there. I’m like, “Jesus, man, he jumped the creek!” And he says, “Great calling man, great calling!”

Weston: Did I mention that I’ve seen him miss seven turkeys in the last three years?

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ABOVE The hunters gather together for old-fashioned truth-stretching stories of the weekend’s gobbler encounters.

On Saturday morning, the hunters trickled into the back of Agee Broughton’s historic home, built in 1835 in Claiborne, just off the Alabama River. At a quarter to 11, Weston and Butler could taste first place, as only three toms had been turned in. Their white bird, by everyone’s estimation, was the one to beat.

At 10:56, Angus Cooper ambled up carrying a large bird. Hunters gathered around, admiring its remarkably long spurs and thick, coarse beard. Some whipped out phones to snap pictures.

As it turned out, Cooper, teammate Bo Cross and their communications assistant(s) — a focal point of the crowd’s raillery — spent the morning bantering with a group of eight turkeys. Bo’s yelps drew the birds in, and Cooper made the shot, effectively ending Weston and Butler’s chances for the trophy.

It’s just as well, though. “If they ever did bring in the biggest bird,” Haas laughs, “we’d just make up a rule so we could disqualify them right there on the spot.” MB april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 21

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AMAZING LIFE

Mark McCullins After a whirlwind world tour, an aircraft test pilot lands his dream job in Mobile. text by NEDR A BLOOM photos by TODD DOUGLAS

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ABOVE Since boyhood, Northern Ireland native Mark McCullins has had a deep fascination with flight. By age 17, he boasted a license to fly a Cessna 172 aircraft.

M

ark McCullins probably isn’t the only Bay area resident who hails from Northern Ireland. But he is probably the only one who came by way of Winnipeg, Moose Jaw, Alert (the northernmost permanently inhabited outpost in the world), Germany, France, Spain and Saudi Arabia.

A high-profile business contract dispute almost cost him the chance to come here at all. But for the last year and a half, he’s been living in a dream job as chief test pilot for the Airbus U.S. Manufacturing Facility in Mobile.

Each time a new airplane is crafted in the Port City, somebody has to fly it for the first time. McCullins is that somebody.

“Better lucky than good,” he’s fond of saying as he ticks off the coincidences that led him to Airbus in Mobile.

A native of Cumber, near Belfast in Northern Ireland, McCullins was a child during The Troubles, a lengthy period of political strife and unemployment. To ease the situation, the British government encouraged a DeLorean plant (think “Back to the Future”) in Belfast, where McCullins’ father worked as an engineer.

But owner John DeLorean encountered

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financial difficulties and closed the plant, which only served to worsen an already dire rate of unemployment.

Already, McCullins was fascinated with flying, a love awakened by his very first flight on a Hawker Siddeley Trident 3, the aircraft of choice for British Airways’ shuttle service from Belfast to London.

“I thought it was the greatest thing to get to go flying.” His mother encouraged his interest, telling him that “whatever you want to do, you can do; just work at it.” But that advice was hard to believe “when everything around me was very consumed by The Troubles.”

When DeLorean closed, McCullins’ parents chose Canada over mainland Britain and fetched up in Winnipeg.

“I was incredibly fortunate when we moved to Canada,” he says, because it brought him into the Royal Canadian Air Cadets program. Supported by the Air Force but not precisely military, the Cadets program dated back to World War II and focused on flying, physical fitness, citizenship and more.

The highly successful youth program, open to everyone at no cost, was a boon to his family and an opportunity that hadn’t existed in Northern Ireland.

Best of all, says McCullins, “If you stayed with Air Cadets, worked within the program and took the classes and progressed, they offered scholarships to learn to fly.”

From age 13 up, every Cadet who wanted a glider flight could get one. By the time he was 15, he was off to summer camp where he was paid $20 a week on top of room and board. There, he learned about citizenship and useful life skills and earned the chance to enter the gliding scholarship program “at the ripe old age of 15 and a half.”

With centers in eastern and western Canada and Quebec, the program is “the largest licensor of pilots in Canada, strictly through the gliding program,” McCullins says.

Once licensed, the Cadets went back to care for the planes, work with new Cadets and earn more flight time.

“I used to work at McDonald’s in the evening flipping burgers to get money to pay for airplane rentals.” He’d borrow the family car for a trip to Portage la Prairie where older Cadets lived in World War II-era barracks and ran the gliding zone. Each day, after younger Cadets went home, the working team got a glider flight.

At the age of 17, just after finishing 11th grade, he attended power flight camp and earned a license for a Cessna 172 — the same airplane that Flight Training of Mobile operates in easy view from his current Airbus office.

“So I redoubled my efforts in my final year of high school and flipped even more hamburgers because I was trying to pay for power flight hours. By the time I graduated high school, I had my private pilot’s license with a night rating and a cross country rating.”

That chance to fly is the first example of McCullins’ favorite truism: “Better lucky than good.”

From high school, he moved on to Canada’s Royal Military College, a tri-service academy, where he earned an engineering degree during the academic years and his pilot’s wings during his summers of military training.

And then, on to Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan, for flight training before moving to his first operation squadron flying

“I used to work at McDonald’s in the evening flipping burgers to get money to pay for airplane rentals.” the C-130 Hercules. By then, he’d run the gamut from glider to single-engine trainer to single-engine jet trainer to Beech King Air’s twin-engine turboprop and then to the C-130.

“A C-130 is a flying truck,” he concedes, “but a good one. It will take you anywhere, and more importantly, it will get you home.”

“Those planes don’t have a lot in the way of automatic systems,” he says. But the cockpit is a great way to learn flying. “You learn how the airplane flies, how it feels and how the systems interact.” And with a crew of six, it “teaches you how to manage people.”

With that C-130 crew, he was stationed at Thule Air Base in Greenland, where, each summer, they would repeatedly load up with 20,000 pounds of Arctic diesel and head north for the 5,500-foot gravel runway at Alert, Nunavut, Canada, the northernmost permanently inhabited station in the world.

Once again, he found himself in a job he loved. While many pilots prefer the sleek flight of a jet fighter, “I didn’t want to fly fighters; I wanted to fly big airplanes.” More than once, an Air Force official took him aside to question that decision, “but you always sort of know where your interest and where your passion lies.”

Most of those who opt for big planes have their eye on an airline career. Not McCullins. He was waiting for the right option, in the meantime moving from copilot to captain to instructor.

When the option for test pilot came up, he recognized his calling. “It takes the flying that I love and the engineering and puts them together.” But he had to win a place in the program.

Lucky again? The Royal Canadian Air Force was desperate for a test pilot with experience on big planes. Unlucky?

He had a broken jaw and his dentist wouldn’t release him in time for the test pilot school in the U.K. He couldn’t go to the U.S. because the September 11 events had shut foreign pilots (even Canadian pilots) from U.S. training programs. It looked like a no-go until the phone rang with a query: Could he do test pilot school in French?

Well, Canadian Air Force officers have to speak French well enough to communicate with service members who speak only French. He had a high school certificate in French, plus the program offered a three-month starter course in the language — so he opted for it.

“In the year I was in France, I flew 24 different types,” he said. “You can imagine what it’s like for the C-130 pilot to be strapped into a Mirage 2000 fighter

after a classroom presentation and a look at the simulator.”

“But the French philosophy was, if you’re going to be a test pilot, then go figure it out,” he says. “They don’t teach you how to fly 24 different types of airplanes. They teach you that aerodynamics is aerodynamics. The techniques that we use to test a Cessna 172 are the same techniques that we use to test an A321.

“You become very comfortable being uncomfortable.” After all, your job is to bring the aircraft back safely and to test everything on the list. “It’s a very different sort of discipline and approach that’s foreign to most pilots.”

Before he could even use his new skills at his next assignment at the Cold Lake test center, he was shipped to Germany to convert A310 aircraft to tankers for air-to-air refueling, a specialty of his. Back and forth to Germany he went for three years, becoming ever more enthralled with Airbus craft and often being asked, “Mark, why aren’t you flying with us?”

Lucky Once More?

While finishing his Air Force career with a couple of six-month deployments to Afghanistan, he and his family joined

april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 25

friends for a ski trip to Colorado. One of the friends had a brand new computer, and in the process of showing it off, found a help wanted ad for someone with expertise in Airbus aircraft, tankers and a willingness to spend time in the Middle East.

McCullins got the job, left the Air Force after 20 years and a day, and headed for Madrid, working on development and certification for the A330 tanker.

Now, who in Mobile doesn’t know what happened next?

Airbus sold the plane to the U.S. Air Force, planning to build it in Mobile.

And McCullins would be coming to test fly them. After a contract challenge from Boeing, however, the contract was rescinded. So instead of Mobile, McCullins headed for Saudi Arabia.

And lucky again? By the time he completed his commitment in Saudi Arabia, Airbus had revamped its plans for Mobile, opening a commercial assembly line instead. And McCullins headed for the Gulf Coast in 2015.

Experimental test pilots check out a new design, performing every test from fuel consumption statistics to the thrilling antics of stalling an airplane in flight. And McCullins has done so, most recently, on the A350-1000.

But at his main job in Mobile, McCullins focuses on production flight testing — checking not whether it’s a good design, but whether this particular plane flies as expected.

The A320 family planes being assembled in Mobile are a tried-andtrue design, long since past the legal and engineering process of certification.

“The design is frozen, the performance is known, the systems are well known,” says McCullins.

“But you still have to fly it for the first time. We approach that in such a disciplined, methodical manner,” he says. “You have to treat that with a certain amount of respect.”

“On the other hand, it’s a very well known design and the majority of what you find during production flights is little noises, little squeaks.”

In fact, the team uses a noise recorder to find such squeaks, tracing the source until it’s defined and fixed.

26 mobilebaymag.com | april 2017

“I still come in to work and pinch myself that I get to take a brand new airplane flying for the first time.”

They check that fuel consumption matches the numbers in the customer’s contract. “As you can imagine, for an airline that does as many hours and flight miles as American Airlines [a major customer of the Mobile plant], if your fuel burn targets are off by half a percent, that’s millions of dollars a year.”

And the team checks safety systems.

Everything that can be checked on the ground is checked on the ground, McCullins says, but you can’t check the effects of changing air pressure, for example. Every air passenger has heard the safety announcement about a loss of cabin pressure, but it takes a flight test to make sure everything operates just as the cabin attendants have assured passengers it will.

McCullins is captain of a four-person crew for that first flight. He shares the cockpit with a copilot and a flight engineer, while a cabin specialist sits in the passenger area. The crew flies about four hours, toward Houston or Atlanta or Memphis, depending on weather and checks each item in the engineer’s manual.

The brand new planes he flies today are a far cry from the gliders and Cessnas he flew as a youth in Canada, but the essence of the job is no different, he says.

“Many of the lessons I learned as a Cadet — about how the operation is run, the discipline of flying, the attitude you’re supposed to bring — are present in the operations we have here today.”

But that doesn’t diminish the thrill.

“I still come in to work and pinch myself that I get to take a brand new airplane flying for the first time.” MB april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 27

SPOTLIGHT

ROBIN WALLACE

MAJOR LEAGUE BASEBALL SCOUT

text by CHELSEA ADAMS • photos by RICHARD REDDY

VOLUME XXVIII/ISSUE 1

A

t 5 years old, Robin Wallace probably didn’t expect she would spend most of her life on the baseball diamond.

In fact, looking back on one of her first baseball games, Wallace remembers standing in the outfield thinking, “This is really boring.” By the time she was 11 years old, though, she found her groove as a pitcher and fell in love with the sport. America’s favorite pastime

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grabbed ahold of Wallace and instilled in her a passion and determination that would push her to greatness.

As an adolescent, Wallace played baseball for St. Luke’s Middle School and LeFlore High School; at both schools, she was the first girl to participate in the sport. Over the years, she met some resistance to breaking that gender barrier, but she always persisted. “There was always that one

coach who would let me play,” Wallace shares. “When everyone else said ‘no,’ it only took one coach to give me the opportunity. And that’s how I got from one level to the next — that one person willing to give a girl a chance.”

While in college at Tulane University, she played some club baseball, but a nagging rotator cuff injury from high school limited her time on the field.

During college, she had surgery and began looking for ways to get back in the game. That’s when she came across the North American Women’s Baseball League based out of Boston.

After graduation, she headed up to Massachusetts. Over the next several years, she worked her way through a number of influential baseball jobs in the women’s league and beyond, working her way up to executive director of the women’s league. In 2004, she landed a spot playing on Team USA, and they won a gold medal at the Women’s Baseball World Cup and traveled around the globe playing her favorite sport.

She obtained her law degree from the University of Alabama School of Law in 2005, and a few years later began looking for work as an attorney — just as the economy took a dip. “The people I interviewed with kept saying, ‘If we give you a job, we’re afraid you’ll leave us because your resume shows how much you love baseball.’ But I went to law school to be a lawyer!” she says with an exasperated chuckle. In the end, she opened her own practice in family law and civil litigation.

A chance encounter in 2012 led her to the experience of a lifetime. She accepted an invitation to enroll in the two-week, intensive course known as “Scout School,” where baseball scouts hone their acumen to pick the best of the best players for the major leagues.

“I’d heard it was really hard,” Wallace says. “And it was. There were grueling 14-hour days of hell. Fun hell, though!”

april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 29

friends with the guy today. I probably wasn’t the best PI with my Alabama license plates. And I was supposed to get my windows tinted, but I didn’t have enough money. So I was pretty conspicuous.

ABOVE As a coach at the World Children’s Baseball Fair in 2013, Robin Wallace mentored a team of youngters for a week of fun, friendship, culture and — of course — baseball in Fukui, Japan.

The Fair, which invites children from more than 20 countries to participate in baseball clinics and cultural exchange, has even more meaning for Wallace and Mobilians, since it was cofounded

by Hank Aaron. PHOTO COURTESY OF ROBIN WALLACE

Despite going it alone (most attendees are sponsored by baseball clubs), she thrived. In 2014, she began scouting full time, making her one of only a handful of female baseball scouts in the history of the game. It is a job she juggles alongside her law practice and family. If you were to ask her if it’s a life she’d hoped for, she’d say it’s been even better — a grand slam.  When did you first realize how much you loved the game?

My first real memory of being obsessed with the game was in the coach pitch league. I was having trouble batting, and my coach was super nice. I remember staying after practice, and he would work with me and throw me ball after ball trying to help me hit. It took a while, but I was persistent and insistent on getting better and being able to do it.

I was an only child, and after my friends quit playing, if my parents weren’t there to throw to me, I didn’t have anyone to play catch with. So I had a brick house, and I’d go outside and just spend hours throwing a tennis ball against the wall. As I got older, I started throwing baseballs at the wall. My parents got very upset

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and told me I was going to crack the foundation of the house.  Many people tried to convince you to switch to softball over the years.

Why did you stick with baseball?

It’s a different game. If you’re a tennis player, why isn’t Ping-Pong acceptable to you? Or why doesn’t a football player just go play rugby? They’re different sports. A softball is huge.

It’s ginormous! The baseball just fits perfectly in my hand like it belongs there. The other thing is that I was a pitcher. I couldn’t easily transition from being a baseball pitcher to a softball pitcher. To this day, I can’t pitch a ball underhanded. I just think, “How do these girls do that?

That’s amazing!”  What did you do after moving up to New England?

When I went up to Massachusetts after college, I knew I wanted to go to law school. I was looking for some kind of law job or internship. I saw a position opening for a private investigator. I left a message and thought they would never call me back. But they did, and I worked for a former police officer for that summer, riding around chasing workman’s comp claimants. I’m still

 Did being a private investigator help you later on in your career?

As a scout, much like being a PI, you’re observing details. You’re breaking down players. They tell you at Scout School that you’ll never watch a game the same way again. You’re not just passively watching; you’re breaking everything down almost in slow motion. Then you’re taking notes, jotting everything down and grading the players. When you add up the numbers, you ask: Is this a prospect?

Can I foresee him in a crystal ball being a major league baseball player?

Scouts are literally trying to predict the future because you won’t know for five years or so if your guy is who you say he is. There’s no instant gratification. You’re hoping and praying that you’re right. The mystery of it is part of the fun.  How did you end up at Scout School?

One year I went to the Baseball Winter Meeting, which is a huge networking event and is basically the who’s who of baseball personnel each year. I was introduced to the director of the MLB Scouting Bureau, Frank Marcos, and I told him about myself. He was so intrigued that he asked for my resume, and I got invited to Scout School!

I was kind of wavering on going. I was only one year into my law practice, and it was going to be two weeks away.

I thought, “It may just be a waste of money. Is this an investment, or are you doing this just because you love baseball and you can say you went to Scout School?” I decided that I’d never have this opportunity again, so I went.

I’m glad I took the chance.  Had you ever really thought about scouting before?

Not as a profession or career path, and I don’t think most people consider it because scouts are kind of the unsung heroes in baseball. It’s not lucrative;

ABOVE Robin Wallace is up to bat, playing for the Seahawks in the North American Women’s Baseball League in 2005. Her achievements on the field have garnered her admiration and accolades over the years. Wallace was inducted into the National Women’s Baseball Hall of Fame in 2002.

As a member on the United States’ first Women’s National Baseball Team, she and her teammates won a gold medal in the first ever Women’s Baseball World Cup in 2004.

it’s grueling. And you’re on the road away from your family a ton. It’s a tough profession.  Describe your experience attending Scout School.

It’s so hard! They just throw you in there, and you’re looking at all this stuff, writing these reports, and it’s all new. You’re thinking, “How can anyone possibly remember this?” I remember my instructor didn’t even have a notepad. And I thought, “This is crazy — there’s no way I could ever do that!” I’ve always been a note taker.

The instructor was making fun of me and said, “I’m going to take your pen and paper away,” and I said, “If you do that, this is completely pointless!”

The last day he did take them away, and I was surprised at how much I remembered. You have to be able to multitask. Sometimes I have a radar

gun in one hand, a camera in another, and a pencil and paper.  Besides hard stats, what are you looking for in a potential player?

It’s the intangibles. How much heart does he have? Is he a hard worker?

A leader? Will he get along with teammates? All that stuff that can’t be measured by stats. It’s a whole package.

You look at their toolsets, their physical makeup and who they are. Is this the kind of kid who’s laying out, giving 100 percent for the ball every time? You might even ask if he is polite. Is he a gentleman? Some people may think that doesn’t matter, but if you’re paying someone this kind of money, you want them to represent your organization in a way that reflects its values. Some guys become a nightmare, not because of what they’re doing on the field, but how they’re behaving off the field.

 Growing up, you were a girl playing alongside the boys. Do you consider yourself a trailblazer?

I never set out to be a trailblazer or pioneer. I’ve just been doing what I love since I was 5, and I’ve continued to do that. If that makes me a trailblazer, then that’s great.

While following this path, I have had girls and women reach out for support and advice, and I’m happy to help them achieve their dreams and accomplish their goals, however outside the box those may be.

I’ve had countless mentors along the way who have made the road less traveled a little easier for me just by saying, “You can do this.” If you follow your dreams, you inadvertently become a trailblazer. By default, you make it easier for those who come after you. MB

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GOOD STUFF

A Colorful Chap This spring, even the most conservative Southern gentleman will want to lighten up his wardrobe with a pop of color. text and styling by MAGGIE LACEY

SOCK IT TO ME Let an unexpected hue peek out from beneath your trousers. Yellow dress socks (Heal Goods).

G. HARVELL • PERUVIAN PIMA COTTON SOCKS • $27

CUSTOM CUTS A made-to-measure custom suit (Samuelsohn) takes seersucker to the next level.

EAST BAY CLOTHIERS • “FEATHERLIGHT” JACKET FABRIC • PRICE UPON REQUEST

THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT Nothing says warm weather like the perfect short (Peter Millar), shown here in the ideal shade of sunset.

G. HARVELL • “WINSTON” TWILL SHORT • $85

FIT TO BE TIED Hand-printed silk bow tie (Bird Dog Bay) adds a preppy punch to your next occasion. Just one rule: No pre-tied neckwear allowed.

METZGER’S • STRIPED BOW TIE • $58

SHIRT OFF YOUR BACK Whether stripes, checks or solids, colorful shirts are an easy way to kick out drab winter and welcome bright spring.

Pink and blue plaid, purple and teal stripes, or even a pop of tangerine are all a good way to go.

G. HARVELL • PETER MILLAR “FINLAND” OXFORD SPORT SHIRT • $125 G. HARVELL • PETER MILLAR “SEASIDE WASH” STRIPED POLO SHIRT • $80 EAST BAY CLOTHIERS • ROBERT TALBOTT “DERBY” GINGHAM SPORT SHIRT • $198

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OH, SAY, CAN YOU SEE Even eyeglasses (EyeBobs) want in on the fashion scene. These trendy readers combine tradition and spunk.

G. HARVELL • “FRIZZ BEE” GLASSES • $80

TIE ONE ON Spring ties are especially fun when they’re a little bit coastal. Hand-drawn oyster shells dance across the fabric of this linen/cotton blend necktie (Southern Proper).

METZGER’S • “BLUEPOINT OYSTER” TIE IN HUSHED GREEN • $75

SUIT UP Swimsuits are the easiest place to add bold color into even the most conservative wardrobe. This stripe print fabric with a scattering of polka dots (Southern Proper) is a classic with a twist.

SHADES • “RIPTIDE” SWIMSUIT • $79

ABOVE Mitchum Jackson sports a light and airy look. A wool, silk and linen blend hopsack sport coat (Samuelsohn, $1,195, East Bay Clothiers) layers over a crisp white shirt with blue buttonhole stitching (Peter Millar, $135, G. Harvell), with a preppy windowpane check lining on the inside collar. A yellow and blue silk pocket square (David Donahue, $75, East Bay Clothiers) and teal green chinos (Hiltl FHP, $235, East Bay Clothiers) add a pop of color. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

RESOURCES EAST BAY CLOTHIERS • 39 N. SECTION ST., FAIRHOPE. 928-6848. EASTBAYCLOTHIERS.COM G. HARVELL • 2534 OLD SHELL ROAD. 344-4200. GHARVELL.COM METZGER’S • 3702 DAUPHIN ST. 342-6336. METZGERSCLOTHING.COM SHADES • EASTERN SHORE CENTRE, SPANISH FORT. 445-0364. SHADESSUNGLASSES.COM

april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 33

TASTINGS

CHUCK’S FISH

text by MAGGIE LACEY • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

I

n an era when consumers are focused on local and seasonal ingredients, seafood is no exception to the craze. Better access to quality seafood is becoming a trend, one we hope is here to stay. Restaurateur Charles Morgan, however, has been toeing that line for more than 35 years. He opened his first restaurant, Harbor Docks, on the water’s edge in Destin in 1979 and has been expanding his little restaurant group one kitchen at a time. Charles and his team are now feeding Mobilians Gulf-to-plate cuisine at their most recent opening, Chuck’s Fish on Dauphin Street downtown.

The experience of a meal at Chuck’s is an interesting juxtaposition of old and new. Fresh ingredients, bold flavor combinations and global menu inspirations are up-to-theminute. What’s vintage is its location in a historic building full of crumbling exposed brick and old fireplaces. The structure, built in 1865, was home to a drugstore, a saloon, a fruit and oyster company and more during its more vibrant years. A fire in 2005 left the interior in ruins, so when local contractor and developer Taylor Atchison and his father, Tony, acquired it, they had a blank canvas with good antique bones to work with.

Thanks to the age of the building, Chuck’s boasts high ceilings and lots of tall windows, lending fantastic ambience. The two-story restaurant features period brass chandeliers and gilded sconces over a large wooden bar with glass-front cabinets and reclaimed doors. But in the middle of all this history, a bold, modern red staircase winds through the heart of the space, and a sleek sushi bar holds court upstairs. The colors are clean and neutral, and the upstairs deck is refreshing.

The menu is a good mix of simply prepared Gulf catch, creative Pacific-inspired dishes and interesting sushi.

Yoshi Eddings, who has been with Charles’ team for more than 25 years, created the sushi menu with both authentic Japanese items from her country of birth as well as creative modern rolls that every Southerner will love.

The mantra at Chuck’s is “make people happy first.”

Each staff member goes through a lengthy training so that they are knowledgeable about the seafood, wines and sakes, and this goes a long way toward helping the customer have the best experience. When diners ask

ABOVE The upstairs dining room at Chuck’s Fish features antique chandeliers, old exposed brick walls and (what’s left of) the building’s two fireplaces. Bright and sleek wooden surfaces make the historic space feel almost contemporary.

questions about the source of their seafood, there is always a good answer: It was caught on one of Charles’ two commercial boats in Destin and driven directly over to Mobile. From boat to kitchen to plate in no time flat. That’s how I like my fish, too. MB

 Chuck’s Fish • 5 p.m. - 10 p.m. M - Th, 5 p.m. - 11 p.m. F - S • 551 Dauphin St. • chucksfish.com/mobile • Average entree price $27, average sushi price $11 34 mobilebaymag.com | april 2017

ON THE MENU THE “BACK DOWN” ROLL Just like a fishing boat backs down the engines when a fish is on the line, you will want to pull up and get to work on this sushi roll. It’s easy to please with shrimp tempura, cream cheese and spicy sauce. The whole thing is topped with slices of raw tuna, avocado and a big pile of crabstick salad (maybe not local, but tasty nonetheless).

UPTOWN SHRIMP Chuck’s version of firecracker shrimp is completely addictive.

It’s a nice, large portion of panko-fried shrimp tossed in a special sauce, served atop Asian slaw in an edible spring roll wrapper bowl. It’s sweet, spicy, salty and fried, with a creamy crunchy bite of slaw.

TUNA POKE This Hawaiian dish is popping up on hip menus across the country, and Chuck’s has its own delicious version.

Fresh raw tuna and avocado are tossed in a soy sauce reduction accented with lemon zest and sesame oil. It’s piled atop a base of rice and capped with seaweed salad, tobiko (flying fish roe), radish sprouts and sesame seeds.

MISO-GLAZED FRESH CATCH In-season triggerfish is panseared in a delicate miso glaze that doesn’t overwhelm the fillet, letting the fish be the star. Head Chef Jarod Little’s preparation changes daily based on local produce availability, but this dish featured roasted local beets and a basmati pilaf.

UPTOWN SHRIMP

BAY TABLES

A Verdant Table Spring is here, and with it comes a flurry of freshness.

Hearty green herbs are sure to add plenty of flavor into your kitchen. text by MAGGIE LACEY • photos by TODD DOUGLAS

T

he season’s best herbs, garlic and onions are the perfect way to introduce major flavor to your dishes without extra salt, sugar and fat. Searching local farmers markets for these garden beauties is half the fun, but if you can grow them in your own patch of dirt, even better!

Most cooks have no doubt used basil, rosemary and parsley in their kitchens. Cilantro proves to be either loved or hated with equal gusto. It leaves behind a soapy aftertaste for about 10 percent of the population, but those who enjoy it can’t get enough. The herb is perfect in Latin dishes, Mediterranean cooking and Asian cuisine of all stripes.

There are hundreds of varieties of mint, and besides tasting great and improving our breath, the herb has dozens of medicinal uses as well. It is an obvious addition to desserts and cocktails, but when used in savory dishes and raw salads, it is especially exciting. Use mint, cilantro and basil together in Southeast Asian dishes such as lettuce wraps, summer rolls and our fresh Thai Summer Roll Salad, above, for a burst that will wake up your palate after a long winter.

You might have thought the bulb of a garlic plant was the only part you could consume, but, like most vegetables, the entire plant is both edible and delicious. You rarely see the 36 mobilebaymag.com | april 2017

stalks, leaves and flowers in grocery stores because they do not travel well or last long on the shelf. However, this month they can all be found at your local farmers market. Garlic scapes, used here in our pizza recipe, are the flower and stem of the garlic plant. Farmers remove the scape so the plant can send all its energy into the development of the bulb.

The entire scape is edible and has a mild garlic flavor.

Admired for their dramatic curly stalks, they can be chopped and sautéed with most any dish, and they make a wonderful pesto that can be frozen for later use. To extend their long shelf life, keep in a glass of water in the refrigerator.

Spring onions are simply regular onions harvested before a mature bulb develops. Seedlings are planted in the fall and are ready for market in the spring, thus the name. They resemble large green onions and have a flavor that is milder than mature onions and more tender than leeks. They are often culled from the field to make room for other onions to mature, and this surplus certainly does not go to waste!

While plenty of herbs can be found year-round at your local grocer, some specialty items are only available for a short time. Get out there and visit your farmers market today and get your kitchen buzzing with green vibes. MB

Thai Summer Roll Salad SERVES 4

Inspired by Asian summer rolls, where herbs and raw veggies are rolled up in a soft rice paper wrapper, this salad boasts bold flavors. The quinoa gives a protein boost, and the spiralized zucchini adds bite. It makes a tasty entree when topped with roasted shrimp, chicken or salmon.

2 zucchini, spiralized or thinly grated 2 cups chopped kale 2 cups cooked quinoa Peanut Dressing (see below) 1 red bell pepper, cored and sliced into thin strips 1/4 cup sliced almonds 2 tablespoons each fresh basil, mint and cilantro, thinly sliced 2 scallions, chopped 1 lime, cut into 4 pieces

1. In a large bowl, combine the zucchini, kale and quinoa. Top with half of the dressing (or to taste) and toss to coat.

2. Divide the salad between 4 plates and top with red bell pepper, almonds, herbs and scallions. Drizzle a small amount of dressing over salad and save the leftovers in the refrigerator for another use. Serve with a lime wedge.

Peanut Dressing 2 garlic cloves, finely minced 1-inch knob of ginger, grated 1/2 cup creamy peanut butter 1/3 cup almond milk 3 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons sesame oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon sriracha water, as needed

1. Add all ingredients to a blender and blend until smooth. Add a tablespoon of water as needed to thin out the dressing until pourable.

The herbs, garlic and other produce from this menu were grown by ViperVille Vegetable Farm in Lottie, Alabama. Their produce can be found at Allegri Farm Market in Daphne (621-1955), Loxley Farm Market (964-4602) or by calling them directly (577-6227). Similar items can be found at Whole Foods in Mobile. april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 37

Garlic Scape White Pizza

SERVES 2 - 4

Plan ahead so this pizza crust recipe has time to rise, but it is easy to roll out and shape. Time saving trick: Make the dough the night before, and let it rise in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Dough: 1/2 cup warm water 1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast 1 tablespoon liquid honey 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, divided 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil Toppings: 1 tablespoon medium ground cornmeal 1 cup ricotta cheese, divided kosher salt, freshly cracked pepper 1 bunch garlic scapes, tough ends trimmed 1 cup shredded Gruyere cheese 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

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1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine water, yeast and honey. Stir to combine, then let sit until foamy. Add 1 cup of flour, salt and olive oil. Mix with a dough hook until dough comes together in a ball. Add the remaining 1/2 cup of flour, if needed, and work it in. Rub a clean bowl with olive oil, then place the dough inside, turning to coat. Cover with a towel and put in a warm place to rise for 2 hours.

2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees with a rack in the upper third. Place a pizza stone in the oven to preheat.

3. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and roll it as thin as possible with a rolling pin.

4. Remove the hot pizza stone from the oven. Sprinkle cornmeal over the stone.

Transfer dough to the stone. Spread 3/4 cup ricotta over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border around the edges. Sprinkle with kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste. Lay garlic scapes over the ricotta and top with Gruyere and Parmesan cheeses. Drizzle with olive oil.

5. Put the stone back in the oven and bake pizza until garlic scapes are tender, cheese is browned and bubbly and the crust is deep brown, about 15 minutes. 6. Remove pizza from oven and top with dollops of the remaining ricotta. Let pizza cool slightly before slicing.

Green Pea Soup with Mint SERVES 6

While frozen green peas are certainly available year round, it is a real treat to find freshly shelled peas in springtime.

The mint amps up the flavor factor, and your garnish options are endless.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 leeks, chopped, white and light green parts 1 cup chopped yellow onion 4 cups chicken stock 5 cups freshly shelled peas 2/3 cup chopped fresh mint leaves, loosely packed 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup sour cream optional garnishes: freshly chopped chives, toasted croutons, small dollop of sour cream, crispy fried onion straws

1. Heat the butter in a large saucepan.

Add the leeks and onion, and cook over medium-low heat for 5 - 10 minutes, until the onion is tender. Add the chicken stock, increase the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Add the peas and cook for 3 - 5 minutes, until the peas are tender.

2. Remove pot from the heat and add the mint, salt and pepper.

3. Puree the soup in batches in a blender on low speed. Whisk in the sour cream and add additional salt and pepper, if desired. Serve warm with optional garnishes.

Adapted from the Barefoot Contessa april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 39

Grilled Spring Onions with Romesco Sauce

SERVES 8

This is a traditional dish from Barcelona known as calçotades. Spring’s first green onions are grilled over a large fire, then wrapped in newspaper and sold by the bundle.

To eat, simply grab an onion by the dark green leaves with your bare hand, peel away any charred outer layer that is not to your liking and drag the bulb end through a bowl of smoky romesco sauce. Then tilt your head back, pop it all in and enjoy.

4 bunches spring onions olive oil kosher salt, to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste Romesco Sauce (see right)

1. Preheat charcoal grill or electric grill to high heat.

2. On a large baking pan, combine the spring onions, olive oil, salt and black pepper. Toss to coat. Transfer the onions to the grill and cook, turning occasionally, until the onions are soft and have char marks, 10 - 12 minutes.

3. Transfer the onions to a platter and serve immediately with the Romesco Sauce for dipping.

Adapted from the Barefoot Contessa

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Romesco Sauce 1 large plum tomato, halved and seeded 1 large red bell pepper, seeded and quartered 1 small yellow onion, peeled and quartered 1/4 cup olive oil 3 garlic cloves in their peel 1/4 cup slivered almonds 1/2 thick slice country bread, crusts removed 4 teaspoons sherry vinegar 3/4 teaspoon smoked paprika pinch of cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more, to taste

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place tomato, bell pepper and yellow onion on a baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil and toss to coat. Roast for 40 minutes, adding the garlic during the last 10 minutes of roasting. Transfer to a shallow bowl, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let stand for 20 minutes. Remove skins from the tomato, bell pepper and garlic.

2. Heat a small, dry sautĂŠ pan on medium-low and add the almonds. Toast until golden brown, 10 minutes. Remove almonds from pan and set aside.

Add remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil to the same pan, and once heated, fry the bread until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Let the bread cool, then tear into pieces.

3. In a food processor, combine the almonds, bread, vinegar, paprika, cayenne, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper and roasted vegetables and blend until smooth, about 1 minute. Sauce will keep in refrigerator for 5 days.

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THE DISH interviews by CHELSEA ADAMS • photo by BLAIR MERRILLS

MB’s contributing food fanatics share the local dishes that made them hungry for more this month.

CHANDRA BROWN STEWART, Executive Director, Lifelines Counseling Services

CHORIZO AND PLANTAIN TACO AT ROOSTERS “It was so yummy. I don’t like when food gets mushy, so I was hoping the plantains wouldn’t be too soft. They were perfect and added just the right sweetness to the spicy chorizo. For $3.25, it was a tasty bite. I also had a grapefruit paloma. I hit all the taste buds with that one meal.”

ROOSTERS LATIN AMERICAN FOOD TK

211 DAUPHIN ST. • 375-1076 ROOSTERSDOWNTOWN.COM

BRIAN KANE, Managing Partner, Fairhope Brewing Company

BLACKENED RIB-EYE TACO AND TUNA TACO AT DRAGONFLY FOODBAR “Doug Kerr knows exactly what he’s doing over there! The blackened ribeye taco consists of perfectly cooked, juicy steak surrounded by greens, garlic, tomato and a nice hint of blue cheese aioli. The tuna taco is filled with seared tuna, edamame, wasabi crema and fried jalapeños. Truth is, you cannot go wrong on this menu, but these are my go-to dishes.”

DRAGONFLY FOODBAR • 7 S. CHURCH ST.,

HELENE HASSELL, Executive Director, Dauphin Island Sea Lab Foundation

CHICKEN AND GRITS AT POUR BABY “The chicken and grits were delicious.

Skinless chicken thighs are paneed and served over stoneground grits with a honey chili glaze. They also offer a crispy piece of chicken skin on the side, almost like a cookie; it’s really crisp and hot and fabulous. The grits are laced with Gouda, so they’re smooth and creamy and pair perfectly with the chicken. It’s a go-to for me. I walk in and think, ‘Oh, I need chicken and grits!’”

SEARED SCALLOPS AT DUMBWAITER “I fed my seafood craving at Dumbwaiter. Their seared scallops with roasted winter vegetables, olive oil and sea salt were awesome. The scallops melted in my mouth, and the rutabaga, parsnips and squash were the right, earthy complement. The threescallop portion was the ideal followup to my starter of fresh oysters on the half shell with zingy mignonette sauce and lemon.”

POUR BABY • 6808 AIRPORT BLVD. • 343-3555

DUMBWAITER • 167 DAUPHIN ST. • 445-3802

POUR-BABY.COM

DUMBWAITERRESTAURANT.COM

 Share your favorite dishes around the Bay on our Facebook page.

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JASON MCKENZIE, Executive Director, The Joe Jefferson Players

FAIRHOPE • 990-5722

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HAUTE HIGH SEAS

MB sets sail aboard the Schooner Joshua in Point Clear to sea-trial the season’s best beachy looks. text and styling by MAGGIE LACEY photos by WENDY WILSON hair by BRANDY HELTON makeup by OLIVIA FRYFOGLE models ROSEMARY CORTE, IZ HEAD and CASEY MARTIN shot on location on SCHOONER JOSHUA at the GR AND HOTEL MARINA, POINT CLEAR

ON CASEY A crisp and flirty cotton top (Milly, CK Collection) with bell sleeves, peek-a-boo front and ribbon tie at the back looks chic over white jeans (Citizens of Humanity, CK Collection). Oversized shades (Giselle, Sway) are a must.

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ON ROSEMARY, LEFT A navy bikini (Seafolly Australia, Sway), is topped with a breezy striped sweater (Sway). White slip-on sneakers (Dr. Scholl’s Scout Gardenia, CK Collection) are a modern update to boat shoes (Sunglasses, Dita, J.J. Eyes). She wears oxidized sterling silver and rose-cut diamond studs (Harvest Jewels) as well as bangles and link bracelets in oxidized silver, turquoise and pave diamonds.

ON CASEY A wraparound bikini top (Seafolly Australia, Sway) gives an updated shape to a classic striped fabric. A chambray pull-on skirt (Hemline) with drawstring ties is a simple coverup. Gold hoop earrings and sunglasses (Hemline).

april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 45

46 mobilebaymag.com | october april 2017 2015

ON CASEY, OPPOSITE A white offthe-shoulder top with bell sleeves (Lafayette 148, CK Collection) and denim cut-offs (Hudson Jeans, Hemline) pair perfectly with peach leather espadrilles (Bill Blass, CK Collection) covered in embroidery and paillette flowers. Turquoise tassel earrings and gold bracelets (Sway) finish off a polished look. (Sunglasses, Ray Ban).

ON ROSEMARY Hoist the flags (see page 51) and prepare to make way. A flowy embroidered top (Parker, CK Collection) has peek-a-boo shoulders and layers of bell sleeves. Throw it on over white denim cut-offs (Sway), and you are set for a day in the sun.

(Earrings, Harvest Jewels. Sunglasses, Dita, J.J. Eyes)

april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 47

ON IZ Take the helm and point her to sea. A draped white top (Free People, Hemline) looks casual with nude cropped skinny jeans (Citizens of Humanity, CK Collection). Complementary sunhat (Sway) tops it off. A pile of beaded bracelets (Sway) adds an eclectic vibe. (Sunglasses, Maui Jim.)

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ON IZ, LEFT Once the sails are set, it’s time to sit back and enjoy the views. A sophisticated black maillot (Seafolly Australia, Sway) with a plunging neckline and tassel belt looks simply chic. Keep plenty of Turkish cotton beach towels (Living Well) on hand in case the waves kick up. (Sunglasses, Dita, J.J. Eyes.

Scarf, Hermes) ON CASEY A black bikini (Seafolly Australia, Sway) is anything but basic with three optional ways to tie the top and a wrap-front bottom. Keep a raincoat (Ciao Milano, Hemline) at the ready for wind and sea spray. (Earrings and sunglasses, Sway)

april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 49

ON IZ Keep your accessories neutral with this chunky bead-and-ribbon necklace (Sway) with horsehair tassel and a soft silk scarf (Hermes).

A cream sweater top (Hemline) has peek-a-boo shoulders and a deep-V that keep it a little bit sexy.

Cutoff denim shorts (Hudson Jeans, Hemline) are relaxed and easy. (Sunglasses, Dita, J.J. Eyes.)

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SPECIAL THANKS SCHOONER JOSHUA The Joshua is a 72-foot wooden schooner sailing Mobile Bay under the command of Captain Carol Bramblett.

A modern vessel built in the classic style, it is the Official Tall Ship of both the State of Alabama and the City of Mobile. Joshua can be seen docked in the Marina at Marriott’s Grand Hotel in Point Clear. She is available for private charters, or walk on to the regularly scheduled day sails for a glimpse of our glorious seaport.

443-9463 • SCHOONERJOSHUA.COM

THE AUSTIN LACEY FUND On page 47, Rosemary hoists an Austin Lacey commemorative flag on the riggings of the Joshua. After Fairhope resident Austin Lacey died of cancer at the age of 28 in 2011, those who knew him hoisted the hand-stitched flags in his honor. Since then, hundreds of boats big and small have flown the bright blue “A” flags in fishing tournaments all along the Gulf Coast and beyond. The Joshua is honored to now be included on that list.

The Austin Lacey Fund is dedicated to raising awareness, facilitating early diagnosis and providing support for young adults with cancer. Learn more at austinlaceyfund.com.

RESOURCES CK COLLECTION 320 FAIRHOPE AVE., FAIRHOPE 990-9001 • CKCOLLECTION.COM HARVEST JEWELS HARVESTJEWELS.COM HEMLINE 4356 OLD SHELL ROAD • 287-6875 SHOPHEMLINE.COM LIVING WELL 25 S. SECTION ST., FAIRHOPE • 929-3255 FACEBOOK/LIVINGWELLFHOPE SWAY 324 FAIRHOPE AVE., FAIRHOPE 990-2282 • FACEBOOK/SWAY-FAIRHOPE

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WHOLESOME EATS On a pier overlooking Cotton Bayou in Orange Beach, MB gathers with the team behind Fisher’s at Orange Beach Marina for some delicious Gulf seafood, a nice cold rosé and a few laughs. text by MAGGIE LACEY • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

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ABOVE Fisher’s general manager Sarah Kavanaugh, Chef Bill Briand and Sarah’s husband, Coleman Grau, share good food and drink on the wharf. OPPOSITE BOTTOM Kavanaugh kicks up her heels with the restaurant owner, Johnny Fisher, and his wife, Beth.

C

ooking seafood can be an intimidating venture.

When you’ve spent a decent chunk of change on a fresh snapper or devoted a day to catching it, you don’t want to screw it up! Preparing a whole fish, with the addition of fins and eyes and other strange parts, is even more daunting. But Johnny Fisher and his crew show MB just how simple it can be to serve up an impressive local catch.

Fisher, the brains and namesake behind Fisher’s at Orange Beach Marina, has been sharing his love for good food at the beach for 12 years. With an illustrious career at several popular waterfront spots such as LuLu’s and The Gulf, he opened his own place in 2013. He has drawn talented individuals to the kitchen, all of whom share the same passion for sourcing locally, and raised the bar on what most people thought beach dining could be. It may be work for this crew, but they have an awful lot of fun doing it.

During MB’s visit, restaurant general manager Sarah Kavanaugh shucks some local Murder Point Oysters and makes sure to keep everyone’s glasses full. The oysters are small and perfect, exceptionally salty, and they disappear fast. Sarah overflows with enthusiasm when talking about her job and laidback life at the beach. With the Gulf Coast still peaceful before the summer crowds descend, it is hard not to be envious of the food, the view and the company this group enjoys.

Chef Bill Briand, a semifinalist in the prestigious James Beard Foundation Awards this year, sets to work chopping fresh local vegetables, whisking together sauces, and preparing the whole pompano and yellowtail snapper for the heat of the grill. He tells us it’s actually hard to overcook

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fish when prepared this way; the skin and bones keep moisture in and protect the delicate meat. Cooking whole fish also ensures you have the freshest product possible.

Whole fish isn’t often frozen, and you can tell more easily if it has been sitting around a seafood counter by the condition of the eyes and skin. (Look for fish that is shiny, bright and looks like it was swimming just a moment ago.)

Buying whole also helps ensure you are getting the fish your retailer claims to be selling, something that unfortunately is more of a problem than most people realize.

Chef Bill seasons the cleaned snapper with minimal ingredients before grilling, but once plated, it is topped with a bright salad of radish, arugula and cherry tomatoes with just a drizzle of sauce. A whole fish makes an impressive platter when brought to the table and served family-style. Just slide a spatula or knife down the backbone and gently lift off the fillets. Watch for bones, as you would with any fish. The best part about having the whole fish at the table is picking the little morsels off the platter at the end of the meal. The olive oil, herbs and drippings from the grill puddle on the plate with tender chunks of fish left on the bones that are begging to be grabbed with fingers and savored. Serving platters of seafood this way invites your family and friends to linger at the table, where there is always one more bite, one more drink and one more laugh waiting to be had.

A few friendly pelicans hang close by the pier house hoping for leftovers, but unfortunately for them, every last bit is nibbled up. The sun begins to set, reminding us that all good things must come to an end. Unless you’re at the beach, that is, where a good time (and a good meal) is never far down the shore. MB

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WHOLE GRILLED FISH WITH GRILLED SWEET PEPPERS AND RED ONIONS WITH SALSA VERDE (recipe page 60)

WHOLE GRILLED FISH WITH ARUGULA, CHERRY TOMATO AND SHAVED RADISH SALAD WITH LEMON CAPER VINAIGRETTE (recipe page 60) 58 mobilebaymag.com | april 2017

SHAVED SQUASH AND ZUCCHINI WITH CREOLE MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE (recipe page 60)

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’ Johnny Fisher s Perfect Whole Grilled Fish

SERVES 4 Serving up a whole grilled fish is sure to impress any crowd gathered seaside. It’s easier than you might think and is almost foolproof. While you can grill most any type of fish, snapper and pompano, used here, work great. Chef offers two preparations: topped with a bright salad of shaved radish, arugula, and cherry tomatoes, or loaded with smoky sweet peppers, red onions and salsa verde.

1 (2 - 3 pound) pompano or red snapper, gutted and scaled (see below) 1 lemon, sliced into 3 rounds 5 sprigs of thyme 3 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper, to taste 1. Stuff fish with lemon slices and thyme.

Arugula, Cherry Tomato

Grilled Sweet Peppers

Salad with

Salsa Verde

and Shaved Radish

Lemon Caper Vinaigrette SERVES 4 Once your fish is finished on the grill, top it with this bright salad of garden-fresh veggies.

It makes a colorful platter and is the perfect way to bring your whole fish to the table.

2 cups arugula 2 cups halved cherry tomatoes 1 cup shaved radish Lemon Caper Vinaigrette (see below) 1. With a mandolin, shave radishes. Layer the arugula, halved cherry tomatoes and shaved radish over grilled fish.

2. Drizzle Lemon Caper Vinaigrette over top and serve.

2. Rub down with olive oil, salt and pepper.

Lemon Caper Vinaigrette

3. Grill on a medium-high fire for 7 - 10 minutes per side.

MAKES 1 CUP

HOW TO prepare a whole Fish SCALE the fish by scraping with a scaler or the back edge of a knife against the grain, moving from the tail towards the head.

TRIM the fins short with a pair of scissors.

SLICE down the belly with a sharp knife from underneath the head to the end of the abdomen where the tail begins.

SCOOP out any innards.

RINSE the cavity with water.

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1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup champagne vinegar 2 shallots finely diced 3 teaspoons finely diced capers juice and zest of 1 lemon 1/4 teaspoon minced garlic 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons honey 2 teaspoons chopped parsley 1. In a large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients. Stir well and then let rest for 1 hour to allow the flavors to develop.

Shaved Squash and

and Red Onions with

Zucchini with Creole

SERVES 4

SERVES 4 - 6

A second topping option for your whole grilled fish is this smoky pepper and salsa verde recipe, giving a Southwestern twist to fresh Gulf fish.

1 red onion, cut in 6 pieces 12 sweet peppers cored and seeded (bell pepper is a good substitute) extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper, to taste Salsa Verde (see below) 1. Skewer red onions and sweet peppers. Drizzle with olive oil.

Season with salt and pepper.

2. Grill for 3 - 5 minutes on each side until lightly charred.

3. Serve over fish, and spoon Salsa Verde on top.

Salsa Verde MAKES 2 CUPS 4 anchovies, excess oil rinsed off, fillets finely diced 1 teaspoon capers, drained 1/2 cup chopped parsley 1/4 cup chopped basil 1/8 cup chopped mint 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 1/2 shallots, diced 1 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1/2 teaspoon cumin 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1. Combine anchovies, capers, herbs, garlic and shallots.

2. Add olive oil, red pepper flakes and cumin. Salt and pepper to taste.

Mustard Vinaigrette

Thin ribbons of squash make a beautiful raw salad. Zingy Creole mustard vinaigrette, crunchy pecans and creamy goat cheese crumbles are unexpected but delicious additions that balance flavor and texture in the inventive side dish.

3 squash 3 zucchini 1/2 cup shaved red onion 1/4 cup smoked (or toasted) pecans 1/4 cup goat cheese, crumbled Creole Mustard Vinaigrette (see below) 1. With a mandolin, shave squash, zucchini and red onion into a large mixing bowl.

2. Add pecans and crumbled goat cheese.

3. Dress with vinaigrette. Mix salad until goat cheese starts to mix with the dressing, being careful not to break the vegetables. Serve immediately.

Creole Mustard Vinaigrette MAKES 1 1/2 CUPS 1/2 cup Creole mustard 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon hot sauce 2 teaspoons honey 1/2 cup salad oil 1. In medium mixing bowl, whisk together all ingredients except oil. Then slowly whisk oil into mixture until just emulsified.

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Eureka!

From harebrained schemes to feasible dreams, the Bay area has never been in short supply of inventors with ideas that could — and did — change the world. text by BRECK PAPPAS

ABOVE Clock repairman John Ellis Fowler enjoyed dabbling in early aeronautics as a hobby. It is debatable as to whether his flying machine actually ever flew. PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE DOY LEALE MCCALL RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ALABAMA

The airplane JOHN ELLIS FOWLER Born in Mississippi in 1862, John E. Fowler moved to Mobile in 1884, where he set up a clock and sewing machine repair business on Dauphin Street. Interested in all things mechanical, Fowler began constructing primitive flying machines at Monroe Park, charging admission to anyone curious enough to take a look.

Considering the Wright brothers were a couple years away from soaring across the sands of Kitty Hawk, Fowler was operating on the cutting-edge of scientific discovery.

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There was only one problem: He never actually achieved powered flight. Although some Mobilians claimed to have seen him performing gliding experiments across Mobile Bay, the existence of such has never been proven.

According to Billy Singleton’s “Mobile Aviation,” upon Fowler’s death in 1939, he was buried in an unmarked grave in Magnolia Cemetery. It wasn’t until 1997 that relatives erected a headstone, reading “John Ellis Fowler, Pioneer of Flight.”

The helicopter

WILLIAM C. POWERS

The year was 1862. As Union ships blockaded key Confederate ports, frustration mounted throughout the South, which lacked the naval power to directly challenge the blockade. During this time, some men, such as Horace Hunley, decided to take the battle under the waves. Alongside a team of engineers in Mobile, Hunley would build the H.L. Hunley, the first submarine to sink an enemy vessel.

And yet, there was another man who sought a different approach; William C. Powers would break the blockade from above. Powers, an architectural engineer living in Mobile, dreamed up a Confederate helicopter of sorts which would be powered by steam engine and propelled by Archimedean screws to give it thrust and lift.

Unfortunately, Powers’ flying machine never matured beyond sketches and a small model. It’s estimated that Powers, recognizing the South’s limited production capabilities, hid away his idea lest it fall into Union hands where it could be produced and used against the South.

While modern engineers doubt the design would have ever worked, you’ve got to admire Powers’ optimism.

ABOVE Built by Powers himself, this experimental model is the furthest his Confederate helicopter project ever progressed. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE SMITHSONIAN NATIONAL AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM ARCHIVES

The Hearing Aid & the Klaxon Horn MILLER REESE HUTCHISON

ABOVE An unidentified woman demonstrates Miller Reese Hutchison’s portable hearing aid, which was known as the Acousticon.

In Miller Reese Hutchison’s 1944 obituary, the Birmingham News summarized: “Dr. Hutchison, one of the nation’s greatest inventors and scientists, was born and largely educated in Alabama and here began his work that led him to become Thomas Edison’s right hand man for many years.” His death, it asserted, “did not receive the attention in Alabama it deserved.”

Born in 1876 in Montrose, Hutchison would go on to become Baldwin County’s most prolific inventor, responsible for more than 1,000 patents. His two most celebrated creations were the portable hearing aid and the Klaxon horn. The Acousticon, as his hearing aid was called, was developed by Hutchison to benefit a childhood friend whose hearing was lost to scarlet fever.

The Klaxon horn came about after Hutchison observed the chaotic traffic of New York City and decided an obnoxious horn would work better than the more melodic predecessors. Described as “harsh, raucous and diabolical,” the now famous “ah-oogah” shriek of the Klaxon horn led Thomas Edison to remark that Hutchison had invented the horn to deafen people so that they’d have to wear his hearing aid.

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The Shipping Container

MALCOM MCLEAN

In 1956, North Carolina native and former truck driver Malcom McLean and his brother and sister purchased the Waterman Steamship Company in Mobile.

McLean, right, used the opportunity to test out a simple but revolutionary idea.

Instead of loading and unloading a ship’s cargo piecemeal with pallets and slings, what if its contents could be organized into giant containers holding tons of cargo?

McLean sent a couple of ships up to Chickasaw to test out his idea, cutting large cells into the ships where his crewmen could lower truck trailers. The experiment was deemed a success, and McLean undertook the task of building the world’s first container ship. The Ideal X, as it was named, forever changed world trade. Forty years later, President Bill Clinton told McLean, now dubbed the Father of Containerization, “Four decades ago … few could have foreseen the global impact of your innovative idea.” Today, 90 percent of the world’s cargo is transported by container ships.

ABOVE McLean pictured at New Jersey’s Port Newark in 1957 in the early days of his containerization revolution.

The Mobile Home LAURA AND JAMES SWEET Although Snopes.com, the Internet’s goto source for debunking urban myths, confirms the following details, there’s still plenty of uncertainty surrounding this story. Nevertheless! At the end of World War II, a couple in Prichard, Laura and James Sweet, saw an opportunity in the housing shortage America faced as millions of servicemen and women returned home from overseas. Their idea was to construct prefabricated homes that were light enough to be loaded onto flatbed trucks and delivered to a customer’s desired location. After the Sweets saw a little success, competitors flocked to the Mobile area, where they could find a large and cheap labor pool.

With the building of the new interstate system, the product attracted national attention, and consumers raved over these “Mobile homes.” As national producers jumped on the bandwagon, it was quickly forgotten that the term “Mobile” was actually a geographic reference and not an indication of the buildings’ mobility.

If that doesn’t blow your mind, consider this: It’s said that Lynyrd Skynyrd’s hit “Sweet Home Alabama” was a tongue-in-cheek reworking of a 1951 radio jingle for James and Laura’s “Sweet Homes, Alabama.”

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ABOVE A 1950s advertisement showcases an early version of the “Mobile home.” Legend has it that the prefabricated houses can be traced back to Prichard, Alabama. Non-Mobilians confused the city name for the fact that the homes were portable, and the new pronunciation stuck.

ABOVE Kirchoff bravely performs an airbag demonstration during the 1970s. PHOTO COURTESY OF GEORGE KIRCHOFF

The Airbag GEORGE F. KIRCHOFF During the 25-year period from 1987 to 2012, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration estimates that airbags saved 39,976 lives. “That’s enough to fill a major league ballpark,” its website continues.

Known as “the father of the airbag,” 84-year-old George F. Kirchoff lives in Montrose with a view of Mobile Bay. The Birmingham native and Auburn graduate moved to Baldwin County with his wife Gene in 1997 following a career that forever altered vehicular safety for the better. Having worked for many years in rocketry, Kirchoff became familiar with pyrotechnics, a useful skill that would serve him well down the road. He was eventually hired by Thiokol Inc., in Utah and led their effort to build a reliable airbag, using his pyrotechnic skills to detonate gases in order to inflate a nylon bag.

The airbag was not a new invention, but companies had yet to effectively develop it. Kirchoff and his team, however, were successful. At an award presentation in 1992, Ralph Nader declared, “The inventors of the airbag technology have remained anonymous for too long.”

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ABOVE Johnson with his world-famous invention, the Super Soaker. PHOTO COURTESY OF JOHNSON RESEARCH & AFFILIATES

The Super Soaker water gun LONNIE JOHNSON From early on, it was clear that Lonnie Johnson, a Williamson High School student, might have a future as an inventor (Johnson remembers nearly burning down his parents’ house making rocket fuel as a kid). Today, his astonishing resume includes working with the Air Force on a stealth bomber program and assisting NASA with nuclear power for the Galileo mission to Jupiter.

But during his hours off, Johnson continued to tinker on other projects.

While experimenting with a new type of refrigeration system, he hooked up a nozzle to a bathroom faucet, and a powerful stream of water erupted across his sink. It sparked an idea.

After several years of false starts and many prototypes, Johnson teamed up with Larami toy company. In 1991, Larami sold 20 million of Johnson’s Super Soaker water guns. “I remember just staring at my royalties check in disbelief,” Johnson would later write.

The Super Soaker was a cultural phenomenon. Even Johnny Carson got in on the fun by soaking his sidekick Ed McMahon on “The Tonight Show.”

Today, Johnson runs a scientific research facility in Atlanta.

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ABOVE Henley tests out the newest model of the EZ Shucker. PHOTO COURTESY OF PRAWNTO SHRIMP MACHINE COMPANY

THE MECHANICAL OYSTER SHUCKER GEORGE HENLEY AND LES STINSON In the late ’80s, two Baldwin County minds converged to crack a tough nut — creating a reliable and easy-to-use oyster shucker. One day, while selling restaurant furnishings, Les Stinson was shown an old 19th century oystershucking device. He was intrigued. After asking around to see if anyone knew of a good metalworker, he was introduced to George Henley.

After some good old-fashioned tinkering, the pair submitted a patent.

While it wasn’t the first oyster shucker on the market, it was the only one that showed commercial promise. Henley maintains that the concept and design are rather simple: “It’s something that should have been invented 150 years ago, but, then, that’s how it goes sometimes,” he said in 1988.

Nearly 30 years later, the EZ Shucker, as it was named, is still at the forefront of oyster-shucking technology. Henley is now the product’s sole proprietor, spending roughly three months of the year making the EZ Shuckers at his home in Fairhope to be supplied to his distributor in Texas.

Henley estimates that 99 percent of the machines are sold to restaurants, stretching from Mobile to New Zealand. MB april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 67

APRIL / MAY 2017 CALENDAR OF EVENTS

ON STAGE & EXHIBITS PG. 70 • MAY HIGHLIGHTS PG. 72

april 8 Easter Egg Hunt and Breakfast with the Easter Bunny 9 a.m. - Noon. Photos with the Easter Bunny, breakfast, Easter egg hunts, and arts and crafts are all included in this day of fun.

BELLINGRATH GARDENS BELLINGRATH.ORG

april 8 Discovery Day at the Dauphin Island Sea Lab Estuarium 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Learn about the research that the team at Dauphin Island Sea Lab is working on.

RICHARDS-DAR HOUSE SPRING GARDEN PARTY

ESTUARIUM AT DAUPHIN ISLAND SEA LAB DISL.ORG

april 13 Jazz on the Lawn Scholarship Gala The Tennessee State University National Alumni Association Gulf Coast Chapter hosts an event for jazz fans. Tickets: $25.

633-4202

april 22 Earth Day Mobile Bay

APRIL HIGHLIGHTS

10 a.m. - 6 p.m. The day promotes environmental awareness and citizenship locally and around the world.

FAIRHOPE • EARTHDAYMOBILEBAY.ORG

april 2

april 7

april 22

Richards-DAR House Spring Garden Party

85th Anniversary of Bellingrath Gardens

8th Annual Bald Eagle Bash

2 p.m. - 5 p.m. Experience an afternoon in a picturesque setting where guests are encouraged to wear their spring ensembles. Donation: $20.

8 a.m. - 5 p.m. Celebrate the anniversary of one of the South’s most beloved horticultural attractions. Guests receive a free slice of birthday cake.

RICHARDS-DAR HOUSE • 208-7320

BELLINGRATH GARDENS • BELLINGRATH.ORG

TONSMEIRE WEEKS BAY RESOURCE CENTER FAIRHOPE • 990-5004 • BALDEAGLEBASH.COM

april 4

april 7 - 9

april 23

Hope for Healing

SouthSounds Music and Arts Festival

Murphy High Hall of Fame Induction

New York Times best-selling author Stephen Mansfield will address guests at the annual banquet benefiting Victory Health Partners, a faith-based clinic for uninsured adults.

RENAISSANCE RIVERVIEW PLAZA HOTEL 460-0999 • VICTORYHEALTH.ORG

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Discover new favorite musicians at this festival taking place at various venues downtown. This year’s lineup includes Big Freedia, JoJo’s Slim Wednesday and the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, among others.

DOWNTOWN MOBILE • SOUTHSOUNDSFEST.COM

4 p.m. Top restaurants serve up their best dishes at this event benefiting the Weeks Bay Foundation and their mission to preserve and protect coastal wetlands.

3 p.m. Standout alumni will be recognized for their community contributions at a ceremony in the newly renovated auditorium on campus. Light refreshments will be served.

MURPHY HIGH SCHOOL AUDITORIUM MURPHYALUMNI.ORG/HALLOFFAME

april 13 “A Chorus Line” 7:30 p.m. Students from the University of Alabama’s Department of Theatre and Dance present the classic Broadway musical for one night only in the Port City. Starring Mobile native William Green as the director of the show which profiles 16 eccentric performers auditioning for a production. It’s sure to be “One Singular Sensation!” Tickets: $25 adults, $10 students.

SAENGER THEATRE • MOBILESAENGER.COM THEATRE.UA.EDU

april 27 Serve It Up with Love Turn out for this tennis tournament benefiting the Child Advocacy Center.

COPELAND-COX TENNIS CENTER SERVEITUPWITHLOVE.COM

april 27 Puttin’ on the Gritz 7 p.m. - 10 p.m. Celebrate the Eastern Shore Art Center with Southern triedand-true dishes, live music and an auction. Admission: $50.

EASTERN SHORE ART CENTER • 928-2228 ESARTCENTER.ORG

april 28 - 30 Interstate Mullet Toss and Gulf Coast’s Greatest Beach Party Head down to the beach for some of the best people-watching around.

29603 PERDIDO BEACH BLVD. FLORABAMA.COM

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CONTEMPORARY ALABAMA PHOTOGRAPHY AT THE MOBILE MUSEUM OF ART

ON STAGE & EXHIBITS

ongoing SHIPWRECK! Pirates & Treasure 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. W - F. 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Sa. A new traveling exhibit featuring marine archaeological artifacts and a selection of hands-on simulators.

GULFQUEST • 155 S. WATER ST. • 436-8901 GULFQUEST.ORG

through june 4 Christenberry: In Alabama 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Tu - Su. 10 a.m. - 9 p.m. Th. Explore Alabama’s landscape, structures and traditions through the eyes and lens of William Christenberry.

MOBILE MUSEUM OF ART MOBILEMUSEUMOFART.COM

through august 27 Contemporary Alabama Photography 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Tu - Su. 10 a.m. - 9 p.m. Th. Celebrate Alabama artists selected by guest curator Richard McCabe.

MOBILE MUSEUM OF ART MOBILEMUSEUMOFART.COM

april 1 - 2, 7 - 9 “A Southern Belle Primer” 8 p.m. F / Sa. 2 p.m. Su. A hilarious tribute to all things Southern. Tickets: $15 - $20.

MOBILE THEATRE GUILD • 14 N. LAFAYETTE ST. 433-7513 • MOBILETHEATREGUILD.ORG

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april 1 - 2 “Much Ado About Nothing” 8 p.m. F / Sa. 2 p.m. Su. See Shakespeare’s romantic comedy featuring witty banter between Benedick and Beatrice. Tickets: $10 - $20.

JOE JEFFERSON PLAYERS • 11 S. CARLEN ST. 471-1534 • JOEJEFFERSONPLAYERS.COM

april 8 - 9 “Beethoven Symphony 9” 6:30 p.m. Doors open. 7:30 p.m. Show starts.

Sa. 1:30 p.m. Doors open. 2:30 p.m. Show starts. Su. Celebrate the Easter season with Beethoven’s “Ode to Joy.” Tickets: $15 - $75.

SAENGER THEATRE • 432-2010 MOBILESYMPHONY.ORG

april 19 Bob Weir and the Campfire Band 7 p.m. Doors open. 8 p.m. Show starts. Bob Weir was one of the founding members of The Grateful Dead. Tickets: $40 - $71.

SAENGER THEATRE • MOBILESAENGER.COM

april 20 Live at the Museum: Daniel Markham 7 p.m. - 9 p.m. Daniel Markham, a one-man rock-and-roll band who pumps out album after album, performs live in an intimate setting. Tickets: $10.

MOBILE MUSEUM OF ART MOBILEMUSEUMOFART.COM

april 21 Boston 7 p.m. Doors open. 8 p.m. Show starts.

The classic rock band brings their hits to the Port City. Tickets: $45 - $130.

SAENGER THEATRE • MOBILESAENGER.COM

april 29 Ben Harper & The Innocent Criminals, Lillie Mae 7 p.m. Doors open. 8 p.m. Show starts.

Tickets: $47.50 - $80.

SOUL KITCHEN • 219 DAUPHIN ST. SOULKITCHENMOBILE.COM

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MAY HIGHLIGHTS

may 5 Cocktails with the Critters 6 p.m. - 9 p.m. Annual fundraiser for the Dauphin Island Sea Lab Foundation featuring delicious sips and eats plus live music from Eric Erdman.

BLUEGILL RESTAURANT ON THE CAUSEWAY 605-6624 • SEALABFOUNDATION.ORG

may 5 - 7, 12 - 14, 19 - 21 “On the Verge; or The Geography of Yearning” 8 p.m. F / Sa. 2:30 p.m. Su. Travel back to the year 1888 with Mary, Fanny and Alex, three women explorers who venture into the Terra Incognita, the last and most mysterious of unexplored territories.

THEATRE 98 • 350 MORPHY AVE., FAIRHOPE 928-4366 • THEATRE98.ORG

may 5 - 21 “The Music Man” 7:30 p.m. F / Sa. 2 p.m. Su. This musical showstopper is sure to be a good time.

CHICKASAW CIVIC THEATRE • 801 IROQUOIS ST. 457-8887 • CCTSHOWS.COM

may 6 - 7 Blessing of the Fleet This time-honored tradition is fun for the whole family.

ST. MARGARET CATHOLIC CHURCH BAYOU LA BATRE • 824-2415 • FLEETBLESSING.ORG

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THREE MILE CREEK. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE MOBILE BAY NATIONAL ESTUARY PROGRAM

may 13 Creek Fest Enjoy live music from Eric Erdman at this event that celebrates the beauty of Three Mile Creek.

TRICENTENNIAL PARK • 690-8863 CREEKFEST.ORG

may 13 - 14 “Pictures at an Exhibition” 6:30 p.m. Doors open. 7:30 p.m. Show starts. Sa. 1:30 p.m. Doors open. 2:30 p.m. Show starts. Su. The Mobile Symphony closes out the season with performances of Dvorak’s Cello Concerto and Mussorgsky’s Pictures at an Exhibition. Tickets: $15 - $75.

SAENGER THEATRE • 432-2010 MOBILESYMPHONY.ORG

may 20 - 21 Thunder on the Bay 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Celebrate the role that Fort Gaines played in the legendary Battle of Mobile Bay. DAUPHIN ISLAND • DAUPHINISLAND.ORG

 To have your event included in the online or print edition of Mobile Bay Magazine, email calendar@pmtpublishing.com.

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BAY BOY

Batter Up! Watt gives baseball a go despite all his apprehensions. text by WATT KEY

W

hen there are only nine boys in your high school class, sports are not always optional.

My friend Archie approached me one day during lunch period.

“You want to play baseball this year?” he asked.

“No,” I said. “I’ve never played baseball in my life.”

“We need you. We’ve got eight players, but we need nine.”

“But I’m already doing cross country and tennis.”

“You can just come to practice a few times and show up for games. None are on weekends, and we get out of class early.”

This was sounding better.

“What do I need?”

“We’ll go to Wal-Mart after school and get you a glove.

We’ve got all the rest of the stuff.”

“What about cleats?”

“You can just wear your tennis shoes.”

Archie and I drove to Wal-Mart after the last bell, and I purchased the cheapest glove they had. It was purple nylon with REGENT written on it. When we got back to school, I saw the rest of the boys gathered half-spirited at the corner of the soccer field. Andy Burris seemed to be getting them organized. I assumed he was the team captain. Andy was the best athlete of us all and captain of every team sport.

As we approached the group, I asked Archie who the coach was. He pointed to an old man sitting high above the soccer field on a hilltop, sipping from something in a paper sack.

“Him,” Archie said.

“Who is he?” I asked.

“I don’t know. I’ve never met him.”

The boys were relieved to see me and found new energy knowing they could finally field a team.

“Just stand out there in right field,” Andy told me. “If anything comes your way, Hank will run over from midfield and catch it.”

“Fine,” I said. “What about batting?”

“No problem,” he said. “Just stand there and strike out.”

“So basically, just stand around.”

“Yep.” I was starting to like baseball. It sounded like I got to skip class to hang out with my friends and do nothing.

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For a few weeks I stayed after school, slipped on my purple glove and hung out with the boys on the soccer field.

Sometimes the coach was on the hilltop; sometimes he wasn’t. He never said a word to us. Andy told me his name was Mr. Wasp, but I never heard him called that. I never heard anyone speak to him at all. But I shrugged it off and reasoned there were just a lot of things about baseball I didn’t need to know.

Our first game was against J.U. Blacksher, a rural school in Monroe County. We got out of class at about 2 p.m. and boarded the old ragged-out sports bus. I was surprised to see Mr. Wasp sitting behind the steering wheel. We filed past him and took our seats. Mr. Wasp closed the door and mumbled his first words.

“Big game, boys,” he said.

The baseball field at J.U. Blacksher had no wall or back fence. Corn grew right up to the edges. And the J.U. boys were the biggest boys I’d ever seen. Farm animals. Most of them had mustaches and seemed like they should be fathers.

They didn’t smile at all, and it was obvious they took baseball very seriously.

Our team spent most of the time in the outfield as the J.U. boys scored run after run. Most of their balls sailed or rolled into the cornfield, and there was nothing to do but stand

there and watch the runners lap the bases. I had a couple come my way, and if Hank could get to it, he would. Most of time it went into the cornfield with the others.

Finally, my turn at bat came up. By this time I was getting a little bored.

“You mind if I just try to hit it?” I asked Andy.

“Sure,” he said. “Why not?”

The J.U. crowd seemed to like it when I walked to the plate and picked up the bat. By now, they were onto me.

“Hey, Tennis Shoe!” one of them shouted from the stands. “Hey, boy, gonna mess you up!”

I wanted to turn around and smile and explain myself. Surely they’d like me if I let them in on the joke. But everything was happening too fast. The pitcher was already starting to wind up. And then, suddenly, I heard the ball slap into the catcher’s mitt, and the umpire yelled so loud I thought I was in trouble.

“STRUUUUIIIKE!” Holy crap! I thought. No way in hell anybody hits that!

“Come on, Watt,” I heard one of my buddies laugh.

I didn’t think it was funny. I was terrified of getting a hole in my chest the size of a grapefruit. The ball was so fast that I couldn’t even follow it, much less try to get out of its way.

“How you like that, Tennis Shoe!”

I tightened my grip on the bat and braced myself for instant death.

The pitcher fired another white streak past me. I didn’t know what was worse, the supersonic pitch or the umpire yelling at my face. I just wanted it all to be over. And in a moment, it was.

On the ride home I noticed the team didn’t seem too discouraged. In fact, Archie told me the only time they’d ever won was due to a forfeit.

As we filed out of the bus, Mr. Wasp nodded to us. “See you at practice, boys,” he said.

Keeping to tradition, we didn’t win a game the entire season. In fact, we didn’t even come close. But sometimes, you just have to take one for the team. MB

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ASK MCGEHEE text by TOM MCGEHEE

I recently attended a function downtown at Mobile’s Ezell House.

What’s its history?

ABOVE The Ezell House, located at 407 Conti Street, was built in 1867 when the city’s and the South’s confidence was at an all-time low. Nevertheless, the grand building rose from the ashes of the Civil War and stands today as a shining example of historic preservation.

The impressive Italianate mansion standing at 407 Conti Street was constructed in 1867 by Martin Horst, a wholesale grocer whose firm advertised “French and domestic liquors, Western Lager Beer, Acme Pure Rye Whiskies, Tobacco and Cigars.” This German immigrant had arrived in 1855 and began his career as a bartender.

In January of 1868, Mr. Horst wrote his brother in Illinois, explaining that construction of the house had begun the previous spring and that he had already spent $26,000 — some $7,000 over budget. Horst was apparently

quite optimistic for the postwar future of Mobile but had begun his project soon after the Reconstruction Act of 1867 was passed by Congress, calling for punitive policies against the defeated Southern states.

Trying Times Down Here

Horst’s letter read: “Trying times down here. No money, no business and none in prospect. Nobody knew such things would come to pass. Houses do not bring the value of their bricks this day. Such is the state of affairs all over the Southern states and will remain so as long as radical thieves rule this once happy country.”

Mr. Horst finally completed his home, and it was a showplace from the start. Its double parlors feature 18-foot ceilings with some of the most elaborate plasterwork in Mobile. An arch separating the two rooms is topped with images of Robert E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson, leaving no doubt as to the owner’s sympathies. A service wing to the south covers a wine cellar and connects to a brick courtyard with a coach house.

According to the 1870 federal census, the 41-year-old “Liquor Dealer” was residing there with his wife Apollonia, six children, two domestic servants — one of whom was French born — and three boarders. According to the census taker, Mr. Horst owned real estate worth $100,000 and had personal property estimated at $50,000. That was also the year Horst successfully ran for mayor of Mobile and, in that capacity, worked to improve the dismal local economy.

From Potential Parking to “Moon Gate”

Horst died in 1878, and the Mobile Register termed him “a good citizen, loving husband and kind father.”

Horst’s family would hold on to the place until 1923 when it was sold to Kaheel Zoghby, a Dauphin Street merchant. After Mr. Zoghby’s death in 1959, the home stood vacant and deteriorated until sold to a local developer who applied for a demolition permit to make way for a parking lot in 1963.

 Want to learn more about historic local buildings? Visit mobilebaymag.com this month to get the details from one Mobile historian.

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ABOVE Martin Horst, one-time grocer and mayor of Mobile. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE HORST FAMILY.

The Mobile Historic Development Commission convinced the developer to pave elsewhere and worked diligently to find a buyer. Well into that decade, the organization held numerous open houses describing it as being “the finest residential architecture of its time.”

Carl and Dorothea Brady finally came to the rescue and restored the home. At the rear of the property, they installed a circular cast-iron “moon gate” in the brick wall, giving the house a new name and lease on life. In 1978, the house was converted into Bernard’s Restaurant by Bernard Guste whose family owned Antoine’s Restaurant in New Orleans.

Downtown Mobile in the late 1970s had hit rock bottom. The Battle House Hotel stood vacant along with countless former retail businesses. Bernard’s changed things. Young professionals flocked to its courtyard bar to listen to a jazz band after work and Mobilians once again came downtown to enjoy a fine meal.

Bernard’s lasted but a decade. By then, new development had begun to return to the area, and today, visitors and residents alike can enjoy a wide array of restaurants and bars where blight once reigned. By 1995, the former Horst house had been reborn once more as a law firm operating above an elegant events space. Now known as the Ezell House, this property is truly a preservation success story. MB

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IN LIVING COLOR

Bathing Beauties, 1923 Original photo from the Doy Leale McCall Rare Book and Manuscript Library, USA Archives • colorization by Dynamichrome Limited

Although beachgoing attire has changed drastically since this image was taken in 1923, the powdery, white sands of the Gulf Coast appear to have slipped through the decades unaltered. These lounging ladies, photographed on Biloxi Beach, were participants in the 1923 Biloxi Elks Club’s annual beauty pageant, a patriotic celebration that began in 1919 but would meet its demise at the hands of the Great Depression. The photographer, a Norwegian immigrant named Erik Overbey, was largely selftaught. He operated out of a studio on Dauphin Street, where passersby were treated to sidewalk displays of his work. His collection, now housed in the University of South Alabama’s archives, is much celebrated for its wide-ranging coverage of early 20th century Mobile.

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