Mobile Bay THE LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE FOR MOBILE AND BALDWIN COUNTIES
February 2017
PRETTY PARTY FINERY MARDI GRAS HATS, SHOES & GOWNS GALORE! pg. 26
CLASSIC CARNIVAL HORS D’OEUVRES
From Clifton Morrissette, Martha Rutledge & Sarah Davis
URBAN ADVANTAGE
10 most livable, likable streets PLUS: Vintage buildings making a comeback
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FEATURES FEBRUARY 2017
VOLUME XXXIII / ISSUE 2
30 A Fresh Crop of Florals Carnival season is a time of taking risks and having fun with fashion. Check out MB’s guide to looking fab for parties and balls galore!
PRIM AND PROPER IS OH SO CHIC. MB SHARES LADYLIKE CARNIVAL LOOKS FROM BOTH SIDES OF THE BAY. PHOTO BY MATTHEW COUGHLIN.
42 Urban Reclaimed A bit of love and a lot of imagination makes all the difference for these formerly neglected buildings around the Bay area.
48 Sense of Place It’s easy to feast your eyes upon the Port City. In fact, feast all of your senses on the smells, textures, tastes and sounds of our beloved home. ON OUR COVER
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Former Mobile Carnival Association Queen Anna McClure dons a sophisticated wide-brimmed hat and black peplum top. Details, page 30. PHOTO BY MATTHEW COUGHLIN
In 1854, a Swedish visitor to the Port City described “the verdure of magnolia forests, with the fresh roar of the Mexican Gulf, with the sun and the song of birds in the orange groves of Mobile.” Read more about the sensations of Mobile, both past and present, on page 48.
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DEPARTMENTS FEBRUARY 2017
VOLUME XXXIII / ISSUE 2
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19
LEFT Flaky croissants, airy ciabatta rolls and melt-in-your-mouth scones beckon carb lovers to Dauphin Street’s new eatery, G’s Bakery. PHOTO BY TODD DOUGLAS RIGHT A stroll along these neighborhoods’ sidewalks provides charming scenes that seem straight out of Mayberry. PHOTO BY SUMMER ENNIS
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Editor’s Note On the Web Reaction Odds & Ends Elemental
Far from a Boar Did you know Alabama has a feral pig problem? Get caught up on some wild facts.
19 Gumbo In the Neighborhood
Safe, charming and beautiful, some Port City streets simply cannot be topped. Check out our list of bests. It’s all good in these hoods.
24 Tastings G’s Bakery & Cafe Midtown’s new French-inspired bakery introduces its made-fromscratch fare.
26 Bay Tables Calling on the Queen Peek in on the menu of a private Mardi Gras tradition.
60 Bay Boy The Big Ride Watt Key shares the comical story of his first ride upon a Mardi Gras float through the streets of Downtown Mobile.
68 Ask McGehee Wasn’t there a terrible plane crash in Mobile during one Mardi Gras? Tragedy hung like a shadow over the Mardi Gras celebration of 1953.
70 In Living Color Raising Cain Ol’ Chief Slac has never looked quite so good.
OUT & ABOUT
40 Mardi Gras Parade Calendar 62 Highlights 64 On Stage & Exhibits 66 March Highlights
Find more favorite recipes from former queens and their families this month on mobilebaymag.com. 8 mobilebaymag.com | february 2017
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Mobile Bay o VOLUME XXXIII
N 2
FEBRUARY 2017
PUBLISHER T. J. Potts
ASSISTANT PUBLISHER
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
COPY EDITOR
STAFF WRITER
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR
ART DIRECTOR
WEB PRODUCER
M ARKETING COORDINATOR
Stephen Potts Judy Culbreth Lawren Largue Breck Pappas Chelsea Adams Marie Katz Laurie Kilpatrick Abby Parrott Maggie Lacey
ADVERTISING
SALES MANAGER
Joseph A. Hyland
Adelaide Smith McAleer
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE
ADMINISTRATION CIRCULATION Anita Miller ACCOUNTING Jody Chandler
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Mallory Boykin, Emmett Burnett, Watt Key, Tom McGehee CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Jean Allsopp, Dan Anderson, Douglas Anderson, Major Adam Colbert, Matthew Coughlin, Todd Douglas, Summer Ennis, Adair Freeman Rutledge, Jeff and Meggan Haller, Kathy Hicks, Carol Highsmith, Wes Hodge, Fontaine Howard, Michael Mastro, Emily McBurnett, Blair Merrills, Jeff Nelson, Haertel Pritchard, Jeff Tesney, Jennie Tewell ADVERTISING AND EDITORIAL OFFICES
3729 Cottage Hill Road, Suite H Mobile, AL 36609-6500 251-473-6269 Subscription rate is $21.95 per year. Subscription inquiries and all remittances should be sent to: Mobile Bay P.O. Box 923773 Norcross, GA 30010-3773 1-855-357-3137 MOVING? Please note: U.S. Postal Service will not forward magazines mailed through their bulk mail unit. Please send old label along with your new address four to six weeks prior to moving. Mobile Bay is published 12 times per year for the Gulf Coast area. All contents © 2017 by PMT Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of the contents without written permission is prohibited. Comments written in this magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the ownership or the management of Mobile Bay. This magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photography or artwork. All submissions will be edited for length, clarity and style. PUBLISHED BY PMT PUBLISHING INC . 10 mobilebaymag.com | february 2017
EDITOR’S NOTE
Get even more local coverage this month on mobilebaymag.com.
PHOTO BY JENNIE TEWELL
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE GEORGE F. LANDEGGER COLLECTION OF ALABAMA PHOTOGRAPHS IN CAROL M. HIGHSMITH’S AMERICA, LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, PRINTS AND PHOTOGRAPHS DIVISION.
A Snapshot of Americana in Mobile
WHAT’S ONLINE
Taste of Mardi Gras
I
f Norman Rockwell were living, I imagine he would find plenty of inspiration in today’s Mobile. Idyllic Americana lifestyle is still alive and well in our pretty Southern city by the Bay: a pair of old fishermen casting their lines along our waterfront; a half dozen little boys gathering at the largest yard on the block for impromptu flag football games while parents enjoy after-work toddies on the porches of their 1940s bungalows; ladies in pastel designer suits and hats fit for Queen Elizabeth I still meet for decadent formal luncheons on golden fine china; and thriving businesses are popping up on every corner in Downtown. What do you find most charming about our fair Port City? The February issue of MB perennially acknowledges our favorite, quintessential aspects of the Mobile lifestyle. In this edition, beginning on page 19, Emmett Burnett shares just a few of the best neighborhoods around town. Whether applauded for their architec-
tural revitalization, upscale amenities or social events, one thing remains universal among them all: Their residents are filled with pride of place. Then, another picturesque aspect of our city, Carnival, is celebrated in “A Fresh Crop of Florals.” On page 30 and following, former Mardi Gras queens model gowns, cocktail dresses and hats fit for all of the season’s most lavish social engagements. Also in this issue, Chelsea Adams reports on the slew of old buildings being revitalized in Downtown Mobile. Former churches and car dealerships are finding new lives as music venues and antiques shops, drawing folks back to the heart of the city. And finally, in “A Sense of Place” Breck Pappas reminds us of the sights, smells, sounds, tastes and textures of Mobile that we treasure. I could go on for days about the many reasons our staff adores this place. But we want to hear your favorites, too. Reach out to us via social media to tell us what you love most about our lovely city.
Lawren Wood Largue
From elaborate MoonPie sweets to a festive Joe Cain brunch, a collection of our favorite Carnival recipes sweetens up mobilebaymag.com this month. You’ll also find additional savory recipes from Sarah Davis, grandmother of two former queens featured in this month’s fashion spread, page 30.
Brighten Up Love a bold color palette? Go online to tour some eyecatching local homes that will inspire you to use your favorite hues with confidence.
Recently Engaged? Share your proposal story, some details about the big day and send a picture of the happy couple, and we’ll feature it online — for free!
Party Pics Let us know about your event. Go online to fill out the Party Pics registration form and submit your event photos to be featured in a gallery on the Web.
Join Our List Get the latest in fashion, food, art and events delivered right to your inbox. Visit mobilebaymag.com to sign up for our email list.
EXECUTIVE EDITOR, lawren@pmtpublishing.com
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ANDRE LOTZ AND MARGO ALDERTON. PHOTO BY TODD DOUGLAS
REACTION
WELCOME HOME On November’s “The Amazing Life of Andre Lotz” Thankful that life brought Andre and Margo to Mobile to share their experience and culture! Thanks to MB for sharing their story. - Terrance DeShaun
PASS THE SATSUMAS On December’s “The Christmas Orange” I grew up in Midtown and could go out all day and never be hungry. Satsumas, pecans, peaches, pears, pomegranate, blackberries, wild grapes and honeysuckle. Not like that anymore — fences and dogs everywhere. - Kim Bolt I love satsumas. I never had one before moving to the Gulf Coast and they are AH-mazing. They are one of my all-time favorite “local” foods. - Jodi Brown
HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD On October’s Bay Boy “Shrimping” I just reread the shrimping article by Watt Key. Such a true narrative of Bay life. The whole issue was a joy. - @kittrellsbaybee
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ANTIQUE CHECKER SET FROM THE CHIQUIMULA
SHIPS OF OLD On December’s “The Chiquimula” I remember the hulls of two wooden ships. One just west of Tacky Jacks, the other was at the base of Spanish Fort Hill on the right, going west. - Richard Hoiles Very cool read. Imagine seeing this every time you crossed Mobile Bay... - John Cutts
A GRAND WAR LEGACY On December’s “Operation Ivory Soap” This is a great story and glad to see it’s getting print! - Bill Tunnell Great article! This should be made into a movie. Really good story! - Konstantin Wertelecki
GETTING TO KNOW YOU Do you have an idea for a story? Share your thoughts and reactions to the issue with us. EMAIL lawren@pmtpublishing.com MAIL P.O. Box 66200, Mobile, AL 36660 WEB mobilebaymag.com
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text by CHELSEA ADAMS
FACT CHECK
THIS MONTH IN HISTORY
COMMON SENSE
FEBRUARY 15, 1854
You probably learned about the five senses in grade school: touch, taste, smell, sight and hearing. What your first grade teacher didn’t tell you was that we humans have far more than five senses, and some scientists believe we have up to 21! Sensations such as proprioception (sensing where your body parts are in relation to each other), nociception (sensing pain) and thermoreception (sensing temperatures) are all individualized senses. Even feeling an itch is a special sense!
Alabama establishes a statewide public education system through the Public Education Act of 1854. The legislation provided funding for the school system and school board. It also helped regulate teaching curricula and standards across the state, which had varied widely from school to school.
Mobile is a city bursting with sensory experiences. See what it’s all about in “Sense of Place,” page 48.
Did you know that Alabama’s very first public school was right here in Mobile? Learn about Barton Academy and the bright plans for its future, along with a number of other (formerly) vacant buildings in “Urban Reclaim,” page 42. PHOTO BY MICHAEL MASTRO
SAY WHAT?
“Mardi Gras is the love of life. It is the harmonic convergence of our food, our music, our creativity, our eccentricity, our neighborhoods, and our joy of living. All at once.” — CHRIS ROSE, author and journalist Laissez les bons temps roulez! It’s officially Carnival, which means parades and parties galore. Don’t miss a single beat (or bead) this season with MB’s Mardi Gras parade calendar, beginning on page 40.
WORD UP
o • bam • bu • late /o-BAM-byuh-layt/ v.) To walk or wander about, particularly in an aimless fashion; to walk up to, as to meet You should obambulate along these charming Mobile neighborhood streets and meet up with these friendly neighbors. Read all about the top 10 streets in Mobile on page 19.
WHAT’S THE DEAL?
Every year, Mobilians check the calendar to see when Mardi Gras will fall that year. Is it a late Carnival? Or early? We know that Fat Tuesday is 47 days prior to Easter (40 fasting days if the six Sundays, which aren’t days of fast, and Ash Wednesday are excluded). To simplify the matter of picking a uniform date, Christian leaders decided that Easter would be celebrated on the first Sunday following the first full moon after the vernal equinox on March 20 or 21. Because of this, Easter can fall anywhere from March 21 to April 25. Count backwards 47 days, and you’ve got Mardi Gras. This year, Mobilians will be catching beads and MoonPies on February 28. If you’re still searching for the perfect ball gown or party ensemble, check out MB’s Mardi Gras fashion spread, page 30.
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PHOTO COURTESY LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, CAROL M. HIGHSMITH COLLECTION
THROW ME SOMETHIN’ MISTER!
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ELEMENTAL
Far from a Boar text by BRECK PAPPAS
M
any Mobilians are very surprised to hear about the abundance of feral pigs throughout our area and the state in general. They’re even more surprised to learn that the pigs’ presence is not necessarily welcome.
“But doesn’t bacon come from pigs?” they ask. Yes, it does — but hear us out. It took thousands of years for the four-legged oinkers to reach North America (with the help of a couple famous explorers), but it only took a few centuries for pigs to begin inhabiting
American woodlands. In that time, the razorbacks have made themselves quite at home, and the native plants and animals have paid for it. From Europe to Cuba to America, the story of the wild hog might start on the other side of the world, but it stops in our own backyard.
WILD THING
ON THE HUNT
The word “feral” (from the Latin “fera,” meaning “wild beast”) is used to describe an animal that lives in the wild but is descended from domesticated animals. Feral pigs, therefore, are the descendants of domesticated pigs but have reverted back to carrying many physical characteristics of their wild, European ancestors.
When it comes to hunting, hogs present a unique challenge. Although they have poor eyesight, feral hogs have a keen sense of smell, comparable to that of a whitetail deer. They are also intelligent, quick and muscular. Hunting methods range from walking slowly through hog territory with desirable foods such as acorns to more advanced control methods, such as hunting with night vision goggles and helicopters.
APPETITE FOR DESTRUCTION Feral pigs are shaggier than their domesticated cousins, and they usually have black fur. They are also omnivorous, meaning that their endless appetite for both plants and animals can disrupt entire food chains. When they aren’t gorging themselves on acorns or rooting up acres of forest floor, they even prey on turtles, fawns, and the eggs of turkeys and reptiles.
STRENGTH IN NUMBERS Wild pigs reproduce at an astounding rate. A sow (female) can become pregnant at just 6 months old, and pig populations can double in just four months. For this reason, the sheer number of wild pigs means that they outcompete native wildlife for resources. Another problem is that there are only a handful of species that prey on hogs — unfortunately, the Delta isn’t exactly overrun with grizzly bears and cougars.
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MOMENTS IN HOG HISTORY ◗ At the insistence of Queen Isabella of Spain, Christopher Columbus took eight pigs along on his voyage to Cuba in 1493. It was explorer Hernando De Soto, however, who brought the first pigs (likely the descendants of the Columbus hogs) to American soil on a voyage from Cuba in 1539. Today, at least 23 states have wild hog populations, including Alabama. ◗ As for the Mobile-Tensaw Delta’s pig population, the working theory is that farmers, in an effort to contain the animals until harvest, would relocate their animals to islands throughout the Delta. Some pigs escaped over the course of time, and feral populations were quickly established. Over the decades, overenthusiastic sportsmen exacerbated the problem by trapping and transplanting these pigs, essentially spreading the population statewide. For this reason, it’s now illegal to trap or possess a wild hog. ◗ Feral pigs have been called the most destructive animals in Alabama. The U.S. Department of Agriculture estimates feral hogs cause around $800 million of agricultural damage each year in the United States. ◗ To curb the negative effects of wild hogs, the state of Alabama has no closed season or bag limit restrictions on hunting the animal. In fact, it’s even legal to hunt wild hogs from a boat, as long as the boat isn’t under mechanical motion at the time of the shot. ◗ As for eating feral pigs, their meat is described as tasting much like domestic pork without as much fat. It should be noted, however, that these animals can carry diseases such as brucellosis. Hunters are advised to wear rubber gloves when cleaning hogs and to ensure all pork is thoroughly cooked before eating. MB
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GUMBO
In the Neighborhood Home is where the heart is, and hearts reside on the roads we call home. Some are known for beauty, others denote charm and a few exemplify uniqueness. Here, find 10 of Mobile’s top streets, in no particular order.
ASHLAND PLACE / PHOTO BY EMMETT BURNETT
text by EMMETT BURNETT
ASHLAND PLACE Peace on Earth on Springhill Avenue
Turn off on Lanier Avenue. With historic homes, Bellingrath Gardens-grade lawns and sidewalks running under mossy oak arbors, one often asks, “Was I just on Springhill Avenue?” Indeed you were, but that was 30 seconds ago. Tom Rue describes his historic district of late Victorian and craftsman-style homes: “Ashland Place is the quintessential
Southern neighborhood.” Quintessential is exemplified in the main entrance, a stucco and cement archway to tranquility. Aged oak trees offer outstretched branches, meeting in the center of the road, like botanical arms slapping high fives above residents taking evening walks for relaxation as much as for exercise. And although the street names might differ (Lanier, Levert, Ryan and De Leon), the spirit of Ashland Place lingers above all, not unlike those mossy oaks.
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NORTH REED AVENUE / PHOTO BY BRECK PAPPAS
WILLIAMS COURT An Altered Course Every Afternoon
Recognition of the unique street that’s hard to beat goes to Williams Court, the road of changing directions. “The Court is a one-way road, from 2 - 7 p.m.,” Collins McAleer says. Its part-time one-way status (and a 45-degree turn that gives power steering a reason to be) truly sets it apart in Midtown. “I call it the secret street,” McAleer adds. Williams Court is also fun-and-games central. “Tons of children live here,” adds resident Danielle Nicholas. “There is plenty to do.” Perhaps the most famous event is the Williams Court Kids Olympics. Games include an opening flag ceremony, Nerf gun wars, silly relay races, pie eating contests and other Olympic activities of which Michael Phelps has never heard.
PALMETTO, OAKLEIGH GARDEN DISTRICT History in the Making
Palmer Hamilton lives on Palmetto Street in the heart of Oakleigh’s Garden District. He notes, “Oakleigh residents all know each other, not just on their street, but around the corner and a mile away.” The neighborhood’s Washington Square, complete with an iron deer in a metallic Bambi-like setting, is a focal point. Better yet, in Oakleigh, everything is a focal point. History blends with beauty. No community is more passionately united in the preservation of Mobile’s urban historic district. Discussing heritage over a frothy brew at the neighborhood’s Callaghan’s Irish Social Club isn’t a bad
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way to spend your time, either. Oh, and a Saturday morning bike ride down to Cream and Sugar for a good cup of java is absolutely essential.
NORTH REED AVENUE Front Porch Pals
Nestled between Dauphin Street and Old Shell Road, North Reed wins “Front Porch Friendliest.” Century-old homes look as fresh as a Mobile morning. From their front porches, residents smile and wave, not just at each other, but even when an undocumented writer walks by. “Reed is like a Norman Rockwell painting,” resident Colleen Comer explains. “There is no greater connection to neighbors than on this street. All of our kids play together on these sidewalks. We all mingle.” And mingling is a good thing. Occasionally, the avenue is blocked to vehicular traffic. Refreshments are served from previously referenced front porches. People visit, good times erupt and Reed rocks to live music. Long may it mingle.
VENETIA ROAD Walking in a Water Wonderland
Majestic homes dotting the picturesque Dog River give Venetia Road the “Best Water Feature” nod. It is more than a street though: It’s a riverfront community. “The nice thing about it is its seclusion,” homeowner Mac McNeil shares. “Our street is a neighborhood. We are a close-knit group, but plenty of room separates our homes.”
Given the distance, a little bit of community ingenuity is required to navigate the long drive. Venetia Road children do Halloween’s house-tohouse trick-or-treating on golf carts (with adult supervision). “It’s more efficient than walking,” notes Mac. Speaking of transportation, by the time Venetia Road teens learn to drive cars, many have already mastered boats.
INVERNESS Totally Cool by the Pool
Charingwood Drive is a main road of Inverness. It loops through rolling hills around 144 houses in a picturesque West Mobile subdivision. Residents dive in — literally. Inverness self-owns and operates a for-residents-only swimming pool. It also has community-owned tennis courts, year-round social events and “Front Porch Fridays.” “On select Fridays, usually in the summer, neighbors host lemonade and cookies for each other,” says the community’s Homeowners Association President Gayle Agee. “But we have something going on all year.” Within minutes of restaurants, parks and the airport, one may commute anywhere from here. But why? Inverness may be just off Hillcrest Road, but residents don’t worry about car lines. They’re at the poolside, working on tan lines. Inverness is a good place to be.
FEARNWAY Fountain Fantasyland
Oh, Fearnway Street, where have you been all my life? Alas, another hidden jewel that shouldn’t be concealed. “Many of us meet at the fountain,” notes John Kilpatrick about the green space, where leashed dogs take their people for chats. “Actually, we meet everywhere.” His wife, Laurie Kilpatrick, agrees, adding that Fearnway is convenient to everything. “We can walk to schools, churches and, for many of us, even work.”
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FEARNWAY FOUNTAIN / PHOTO BY BRECK PAPPAS
The Fearnway neighborhood borders bustling Catherine Street, but you would never know it. It is an oasis of fern-draped houses, manicured lawns and a culvert splitting the street in half. But the culvert — and this is so Fearnway — has little concrete footpath bridges crossing over, giving an almost enchanting look, cute enough to house hobbits.
NORTH MONTEREY Made for Walking
The “Best for Pets and People” designation goes to North Monterey Street. The wide spacious roads winding down a scenic avenue make it hard to decide who benefits from Monterey Street the most — the people or the furry residents? Let us paws and reflect. Monterey Street is where everyone walks with each other, with babies, with dogs. “Everyone enjoys it,” says resident Paul Crane, former University of Alabama and New York Jets football player and current Monterey dog walker. “Monterey is just a good place of good people.” His dog agrees by wagging its tail. Walkers are encouraged not to hurry — mainly by other walkers, who want to stop and chat.
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TUTHILL The Little Lane that Could
Tuthill Lane connects two bustling thoroughfares: Springhill Avenue and Old Shell Road. But it does more than connect; it calms. Beautiful homes line the lane, ranging from comfortably stately to la-di-da. But Tuthill is a gateway to virtually everything Mobile has to offer in the land of Spring Hill. On the Old Shell Road side, “Tuthillians” savor sipping java from local coffee shops, jogging across a college campus and shopping at cool boutiques.
DEMOUY AVENUE All for One and One for All
What’s in a name? Plenty. “First thing you need to know, it’s pronounced ‘De-mooee,’ not De-Moy,” Trixie Daniel corrects me so that I am not a De-moo-ee newbee. Trixie and husband, Alan, have lived all over the world, but when they came to Mobile, they were attracted to this street for the same reason everyone else is. “It is a classic Americana neighborhood,” she says. Neighboring Demouy–ites Leslie and Jon Largue agree. “We love this street and don’t want to live anywhere else,” says Leslie. “There is just overall acceptability.” Demouy readily accepted me, and I couldn’t even pronounce it. MB
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TASTINGS
G’S BAKERY & CAFE
text by MAGGIE LACEY • photos by TODD DOUGLAS
R
omantics might imagine that Parisians spend all day strolling along the River Seine with a baguette under one arm and a pastry box filled with delicate treats in the other. Très chic. But you don’t have to go nearly that far to indulge in these goods. Midtown Mobilians can now have a little taste of the Parisian lifestyle as they stroll under the oaks of Dauphin Street toting a bag of freshly made French pastries or a warm baguette from G’s Bakery. Open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon pick-me-ups, G’s Bakery & Cafe serves sandwiches and snacks centered around delicious, made-from-scratch baked goods. The croissants, available on both the breakfast and lunch menus, take five hours to complete — and they taste like it! Flaky layers of laminated dough are a difficult task for even seasoned bakers (this alone makes the trip worthwhile). The bagels are boiled then baked every morning at 3 a.m. when proprietor Gene Hansen arrives to heat the ovens and get the various doughs rolled and ready for the morning crowd. The artisan breads are the centerpiece of the lunch menu, with each sandwich presented on another unique loaf. Whatever you do, save room for dessert. The pastry display features tray after tray of delicate, decadent, exquisite treats that look as if they were flown in directly from Paris. Hansen is an accomplished pastry chef with decades of experience in kitchens around the country. He got his initial training under a well-respected French chef, and his love for those delicate, Parisian recipes was lasting. Even as a hotel executive chef, pastry is where his heart remained. A quiet and unassuming man, he lights up when discussing how he glazes his tarts or proofs his breads. His hands seem most comfortable when working in the large bins of flour and sugar that line his workbench. Powdered sugar dusts the floor, and the room smells like butter. G’s Bakery is the culmination of Hansen’s life working in other people’s kitchens while dreaming of his own. In Midtown, he’s set out to create a neighborhood spot where people feel comfortable spending the day with their laptop
PASTRAMI SANDWICH
and an espresso and where kids come down on scooters for an after-school cinnamon roll. The cozy corner shop has ample parking, alfresco sidewalk seating and some of the friendliest servers. They even have a water bowl ready for your little French poodle (or whatever four-legged friend you bring along). The decor is simple and straightforward, but who’s looking with a dessert case as splendid as this? MB
G’s Bakery & Cafe • 6 a.m. – 6 p.m. T – S • 1714 Dauphin St. • 341-7627 • facebook.com/gsbakeryandcafe • Average lunch price: $8 24 mobilebaymag.com | february 2017
ON THE MENU NAPOLEON Also known as a mille-feuille (French for “1,000 leaves”), this heavenly dessert, left, features paper-thin “leaves” of homemade puff pastry separated by a decadent combination of pastry cream and whipped cream. A thin spread of apple jelly on one layer gives just a touch of sweetness and flavor to this elegant treat.
APPLE TART This traditional French apple tart features a delicate crust filled with pastry cream and topped with a beautiful arrangement of sliced apples. Baked until tender and slightly brown on the edges, the tart is then painted with apricot glaze. for the perfect sheen. Voila.
PASTRAMI SANDWICH Beef brisket is brined in-house for five days to give it just the right amount of saltiness, becoming that deli classic known as pastrami. Rich with the flavors of coriander, pepper and a slight kick of spice, it is topped with melted Swiss and Dijon. The sandwich, opposite, is served on house-made marbled rye bread, as beautiful as it is delicious. The obligatory chips and pickle are on the side.
BAY TABLES
Calling on the Queen Traditional Gulf seafood is a must for classic Mardi Gras celebrations. text and styling by MAGGIE LACEY • photos by JEFF TESNEY and BLAIR MERRILLS
A
s the Carnival season draws ever closer, a group of local enthusiasts gather to “Call on the Queen” and usher in her reign as monarch of the coming Mardi Gras. Roughly 10 weeks before Fat Tuesday, the Mobile Carnival Association’s board of directors, the Carnival Committee, family and close friends gather, usually at the home of the queen-to-be’s parents, to witness the official presentation of the scroll inviting the young lady to honor us as our monarch. While the coronation of the queen, held the Saturday before Fat Tuesday, is open to the general public, the party announcing her reign is by invitation only and is quite an exclusive affair. Everyone holds a glass of Champagne and toasts the lovely sovereign and her King Felix III. Robby McClure, the proud father of two former queens, is well versed in all things Mardi Gras. He marvels at how this rich tradition is still alive in such modern times. “It’s so unusual that in 2017 we still have celebrations that are so classic. It is still seen as such an honor. These young ladies forever hold in their hearts how special this moment is.” Mobilians hold our traditional cuisine as dear as we hold our Mardi Gras traditions, with tried-and-true recipes still a major part of the annual revelry. When the time comes for floats to roll down Government Street, Gulf oysters are in their prime and lump crab is as sweet as can be. Seafood has always played a central role in Mardi Gras entertaining, and that tradition continues into modern times with gusto. The 2017 monarch, Queen Caroline Parish Meacham, received her invitation poolside at her parents’ home.
Clifton Morrissette provided a sumptuous feast for those attending, with tuna tartar, sliced beef tenderloin and, of course, plenty of Gulf seafood. No one prepares heaping platters of fried oysters and shrimp like Clifton, and we persuaded him (after much convincing) to give us some tips on how to recreate the feast at home. Longtime Mobile caterer extraordinaire (now retired) Martha Rutledge remembers serving her delicate Crab Strudel at the Calling on the Queen for Hill Luscher in 2005. Without too much fuss, this pastry, made with storebought phyllo dough and jumbo lump crabmeat, offers a big wow factor. Occasionally, a monarch has a member of the family so talented in the kitchen that there is no need to employ a caterer for the event. This was the case with Sarah Davis, grandmother to both Whiting Inge Mostellar (queen in 2004) and Alice Turner Frost (queen in 2006). Sarah chose to serve several seafood dishes for the occasions, including her Shrimp Salsa. This recipe works just as well on the wharf as it does at a swanky affair. The Visitation, as the regal affair is sometimes known, officially kicks off the queen’s reign and marks the moment that the Carnival fun begins. Up until this point, taking on the honor and responsibility of Queen of Mardi Gras involves planning, preparation, shopping, bills, arrangements and probably a few mother-daughter disagreements. From this moment on, however, the queen can have fun and soak in the adoration of her “subjects” and some plates of amazing seafood.
TOP RIGHT The 2017 Carnival Association monarchs proudly receive the scrolls inviting them to be the King and Queen of Mardi Gras at the recent Calling on the Queen party. Queen Caroline Meacham stands beside her parents, Alison and Johnny Meacham, while King Felix III, Bestor Ward, holds his scroll beside his parents, Bestor and Kathy Ward.
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Clifton Morrissette’s Fried Shrimp & Oysters SERVES 6 - 8 16 ounces medium-sized Bayou la Batre oysters, shucked, in their liquor (or 1 pound peeled, tailon Gulf shrimp, preferably 16 - 26 count size)
1 1/2 cups buttermilk 8 cups vegetable oil, or enough to fill a cast-iron pot with 2 inches of oil 2 cups Dixie Lily Fried Seafood Breader
1. Drain oysters. Place oysters in a large bowl and add buttermilk. Place in refrigerator and allow to soak at least 5 minutes and up to 30 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, heat a large heavy-bottomed pot or fryer with plain vegetable oil (not peanut oil) to 325 degrees. Do not allow oil to get above 350 degrees. 3. Pour the Dixie Lily Seafood Breader into a shallow baking dish. Remove seafood from milk and drop into the breader. Toss to coat and immediately place oysters into the hot oil. 4. Fry until golden brown, 3 - 5 minutes, then drain briefly on paper towels. 5. Serve immediately with cocktail, remoulade or tartar sauce for dipping.
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Martha Rutledge’s Crab Strudel MAKES 4 STRUDELS / SERVES 10 - 12
Martha served this Crab Strudel at the 2005 Calling on the Queen for Hill Luscher. This impressive recipe is deceptively easy and works great as an appetizer, but it can also be cut into larger slices and served as a luncheon entree with a green salad on the side. 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 3 scallions chopped 1 teaspoon curry powder 1 pound fresh jumbo lump crabmeat 2 teaspoons chopped flat parsley juice of 1 lime
3/4 teaspoon sea salt 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 20 sheets phyllo dough 1/4 cup dry plain breadcrumbs
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 2. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in medium saucepan. Add the scallions and cook over medium heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the curry powder. 3. Drain the crabmeat and pick through for any remaining shell pieces. Shred crabmeat in a bowl and add parsley, lime juice, salt and pepper. Add the seasoned crabmeat to the scallion mixture. 4. Melt remaining butter in a small saucepan. Unfold 1 sheet of phyllo dough on a clean, dry workspace. Brush with melted butter, then sprinkle with a small amount of the breadcrumbs.
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Repeat the process by laying a second sheet of phyllo over the first sheet. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with breadcrumbs until 5 sheets have been used. 5. Spoon a 1-inch wide row of the crab mixture along one long edge of the dough. Roll up dough like a jelly roll. Brush the top with melted butter and set aside. Repeat the same process using all the phyllo dough and crab filling. 6. Cover a sheet pan with parchment paper. Place the strudels on the pan and score diagonally into 1 1/2-inch pieces. 7. Bake for 12 minutes or until the top is light brown. Slice along the score lines and serve.
Sarah Davis’ Shrimp Salsa SERVES 10 - 12
Sarah prepared hors d’oeuvres for the Calling on the Queen parties for Whiting Inge Mostellar and Alice Turner Frost, both her granddaughters and both models in this month’s Mardi Gras fashion spread, page 30. 2 pounds boiled Gulf shrimp, peeled, cut into bite-size pieces (Save a few for garnish.) 6 green onions, finely chopped, divided 2 jalapeños, seeds removed and peppers finely chopped, divided juice of 2 limes, divided 1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro, divided 1 jar cocktail sauce 1/4 cup ketchup 1 1/2 teaspoons Tony Chachere’s or other Creole seasoning, or to taste 10-ounce package grape tomatoes, seeded and chopped salt, to taste 4 - 6 avocados, peeled and chopped
1. Combine shrimp, half of the green onions, half of the jalapeños, juice of 1 lime and half of the cilantro. Marinate at least 1 hour. 2. In a bowl, combine cocktail sauce, ketchup and Creole seasoning, and add to shrimp mixture. Refrigerate. 3. Meanwhile, combine chopped tomatoes, salt to taste, juice of 1 lime and avocados. Add remaining cilantro, jalapeño, green onions and more Creole seasoning to taste, if desired. Toss with shrimp mixture at the last minute. Keep chilled until serving. 4. Serve cold with Fritos Scoops or tortilla chips.
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A FRESH CROP OF FLORALS Former Carnival queens show off spring’s most ladylike looks— perfect for this season’s Mardi Gras soirees.
text and styling by MAGGIE LACEY • photos by MATTHEW COUGHLIN hair by JENNIFER SAVELL • makeup by OLIVIA FRYFOGLE models ALICE TURNER FROST, ANNA ROBISON MCCLURE AND WHITING INGE MOSTELLAR
ON ANNA ROBISON MCCLURE Looking every bit the modern monarch, Anna wears a floral print skirt and blush top (Ellie Wild, I Do Bridal) paired with a dramatic flower fascinator (Christine A. Moore, CK Collection). Two handmade crystal and glass rings (CK Collection) and elegant pearl and rhinestone earrings (Metzger’s) finish the look. Antique cane back armchair (Bender Estate Sales). ON OUR COVER Anna dons a sophisticated black-and-white wide-brimmed hat (Marzi Firenze, Debra’s) paired with a chic black pleated peplum top (C/Meo Collective, Hemline).
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BOLD PATTERNS Such a festive pleated skirt matches best with a simple, fitted top, all coming together for the perfect party look. Foral skirt (Waverly Gray, Debra’s). Black sweater (Allude, Debra’s). Booties (Pour la Victoire, Debra’s). Gold bracelets (Coquette). Spanx patterned tights (her own).
ON ALICE TURNER FROST An off-the-shoulder dress (Lela Rose, Debra’s) with a swingy skirt and pockets is the perfect canvas to showcase an exquisite floral headpiece (Louise Green, Debra’s). Rhinestone flower stud earrings (Metzger’s) and an antique gold cuff (Bender Estate Sales) finish the polished look. Alice carries a vintage 1950s handbag (Bender Estate Sales) that was originally a favor from a Knights of Revelry Mardi Gras party. ON WHITING INGE MOSTELLAR A dramatic cape dress (Isabel Sanchis, Debra’s) is a chic combination of edgy and traditional. Handmade pewter tassel earrings (Katherine M Designs, Metzger’s) give the outfit a modern touch. A 1922 gold metal box clutch (Bender Estate Sales) is a cherished souvenir from a Crewe of Columbus Mardi Gras ball.
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ON ANNA A sweet, tailored A-line number with a hint of shine (Nora Noh, Debra’s) is accented with a dramatic pink and black hat (Marzi Firenze, Debra’s). A glitzy black clutch (model’s own) is a sassy accessory. ON WHITING Oversized florals in bold colors make a statement. The fit-andflare silhouette adds even more drama to this strapless gown (Papparazzi, I Do Bridal). Delicate pave rhinestone bracelets and beaded tassel earrings (Hemline) complement it.
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ON WHITING An oversized floral print and pleated detail in back make this sheath (Laura Bernal, Debra’s) extra special. Crystal-studded chunky heels (Pelle Moda, CK Collection) and simple floral rhinestone earrings (Metzger’s) are on trend accessories. Fur wrap and chair (Bender Estate Sales). ON ALICE A celadon millinery masterpiece (Carol Bader Design, Metzger’s) is the showstopper with a classic, tailored ivory silk top (Bigio Collection, CK Collection). A layered pearl necklace (Metzger’s), multistrand pearl bracelet (Millianna, Debra’s) and long, ivory leather gloves complete her ensemble.
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RESOURCES BALLIN’S 9 Du Rhu Drive. 304-0044 BENDER ESTATE SALES 209-2019 CK COLLECTION 320 Fairhope Ave., Fairhope. 990-9001 DEBRA’S 4068 Old Shell Road. 343-7463 HEMLINE 4356 Old Shell Road. 287-6875 I DO BRIDAL AND FORMAL 6920 Airport Blvd. #103. 447-2784 METZGER’S 3702 Dauphin St. 342-6336
ON ALICE This classic gown in black and pink (Aidon Mattox, Ballin’s) is a simple way to wear the floral trend to the most elegant affair. After dancing the night away, Alice kicks off her chunky velvet pumps (Pura Lopez, Debra’s) with black stone ornaments. Statement earrings (Metzger’s) are an exquisite complement to the basic top. A black beaded bag (Moyna, CK Collection) lends a touch of glitz.
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PHOTO COURTESY OF THE GEORGE F. LANDEGGER COLLECTION OF ALABAMA PHOTOGRAPHS IN CAROL M. HIGHSMITH’S AMERICA, LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, PRINTS AND PHOTOGRAPHS DIVISION.
MARDI GRAS 2017 PARADE SCHEDULE Condé Explorers
Maids of Mirth
Order of Many Faces
7:30 p.m. Route A
6:30 p.m. Route A
7 p.m. Route A
1 p.m. Dauphin Island
february 16
Knights of Ecor Rouge
february 21
february 10
6:30 p.m. Route A
february 4 Town of Dauphin Island Parade
Condé Cavaliers 6:30 p.m. Route A
february 11 Order of the Rolling River 2 p.m. Dauphin Island Parkway
Bayport Parading Society
Order of Polka Dots
february 17 Order of Inca 6:30 p.m. Route A
Apollo’s Mystic Ladies 6:45 p.m. Daphne
6:45 p.m. Fairhope
Order of Butterfly Maidens 7 p.m. Route A
Krewe of Marry Mates 7:30 p.m. Route A
february 19 Neptune’s Daughters 6:30 p.m. Route A
Order of LaShe’s 6:30 p.m. Route A
february 23 Mystic Stripers Society 6:30 p.m. Route A
february 24 Crewe of Columbus
2:30 p.m. Route A
february 18
OOI
6:30 p.m. Route A
Pharaohs Mystic Society
Mobile Mystics
7 p.m. Route A
6:30 p.m. Route A
2 p.m. Route A
Mystical Order of Mirams
february 20
6:30 p.m. Orange Beach
Order of Hebe
Mobile Mystical Revelers
Order of Venus
7 p.m. Route A
2:30 p.m. Route A
Maids of Jubilee
6:30 p.m. Route A
6:45 p.m. Fairhope
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february 25 Foley Parade 11 a.m. Foley
Floral Parade 12 p.m. Route A
Mystic Revelers 12 p.m. Bay Minette
Coronation of Queen Caroline Parish Meacham and King Felix III 6:30 p.m. Mobile Convention Center
february 26 Arrival of King Elexis I 2 p.m. Route E
Floral Parade 12 p.m. Route A
King Felix III Parade 12 p.m. Route A
Prichard Mardi Gras Association Parade
Knights of Revelry
Loyal Order of the Firetruck
Mobile Mystical Ladies
2:29 p.m. Daphne
3 p.m. Route D
1 p.m. Route A
Joe Cain Parade
Monday Mystics
Order of Angels
2:30 p.m. Route A
3:30 p.m. Route D
1:30 p.m. Route A
Le Krewe de Bienville
Northside Merchants
Krewe of Mullet Mates
5 p.m. Route A
4 p.m. Route D
2 p.m. Mullet Point
Coronation of Queen Katherine Ashley Smith and King Elexis
Order of Mystic Magnolias
5:30 p.m. Orange Beach
7 p.m. Mobile Convention Center
Mystics of Time
10 a.m. Gulf Shores
Order of Athena
12:30 p.m. Route A
Mystics of Pleasure
Gulf Shores Mardi Gras Association
1 p.m. Prichard
MLK Business and Civic Organization Parade
Knights of Mobile
february 28 (Fat Tuesday)
6:45 p.m. Fairhope
Infant Mystics 7 p.m. Route F
10:30 a.m. Route A
12:30 p.m. Route A
King Felix III Parade 1 p.m. Route A
Comic Cowboys 1:30 p.m. Route A
Mobile Area Mardi Gras Association Parade 2 p.m. Route B
Orange Beach Parade
6 p.m. Route A
february 27
Shadow Barons
Arrival of King Felix III
Order of Doves
Order of Myths
6:45 p.m. Daphne
12 p.m. Government Street
7:30 p.m. Route F
6 p.m. Route C
2 p.m. Orange Beach
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URBANRECLAIM Thanks to preservation-minded individuals and organizations, these formerly abandoned buildings will stand proud for decades to come.
There’s a resurrection happening in Mobile. As years and even decades passed, many of our historic buildings stood empty. Crumbling and overlooked, they seemed doomed in the face of overwhelming disrepair. That is, until
text by CHELSEA ADAMS photos by MICHAEL MASTRO
people with vision and hope stepped up to invigorate these buildings with new life. They now await bright, exciting adventures ahead, stronger than ever. They have been reborn.
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BARTON ACADEMY Built: 1836 - 1839 • Location: South Cedar Street, Government Street Added to National Register of Historic Places (NRHP): 1970 • Unoccupied: 9 years • bartonacademy.org Four years ago, Barton Academy topped the “Restoration Wish List” written by MB contributor and historian John Sledge. The final bell seemed to have rung, and its blackboards had long since been erased. In the months following that story, however, this wish would come true as the Barton Academy Foundation came together to save the building. Once formed, the Foundation — created by the Downtown Mobile Alliance, Mobile Historic Development Commission and the Historic Mobile Preservation Society — began exploring ideas for the Greek Revival structure that housed the state’s first public school. “I approached Dr. Russ Lea [former vice president of research at the University of South Alabama] about what would be an appropriate use of the building,” Jaime Betbeze, president of the Barton Academy Foundation,
shares. “He said Mobile needs a true international school that focuses on world cultures and prepares students for management roles in international corporations. Mobile really is an international hub, and our students need to be able to operate on a world stage.” And with that suggestion, a dream took shape. In the years since, that dream has been inching closer to reality. The Mobile County Public School System contributed $4 million for the building’s external renovations, now completed, in a show of commitment to the cause. Now, it’s up to the Foundation to raise about $12 million in private donations for the internal renovations that would reconvert spaces from offices back to classrooms. The Foundation is optimistic. Betbeze hopes to have students in desks at the start of the 2019 school year.
Why is Barton such a Mobile landmark? Betbeze easily lists off plenty of reasons. Besides its iconic white columns and uniquely grand architecture for downtown, he reveals, “Historically, this is the birthplace of public education in Alabama.” He points out that the idea of educating a state’s entire populace was a foreign concept in the 1830s, and Barton helped spearhead it. Then there’s the simple nostalgia former students have for the building. Betbeze’s grandmother, for example, graduated from Barton. These factors have worked together to ensure that the school will never be forgotten and will give new generations of Mobile’s children a quality education. “There’s just this bond between the people and the place,” Betbeze concludes, “and that’s why you see this outpouring of love for it.”
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PHOTO COURTESY OF FUSE FACTORY / PHOTO BY JEFF NELSON
FUSE FACTORY Built: 1920 Location: Government Street Unoccupied: 30+ years fuseproject.org In last year’s City Guide, MB mentioned the Fuse Project’s upcoming coworking space. This year, we’re happy to report that the coworking space geared specifically to small nonprofits is open and thriving. Executive director Adrienne Golden shares that the city decided to lease them the fourth floor of the Government Street building for a nominal fee if Fuse took on the $500,000 restoration of the space. “Some people called the deal cool, but many said it was crazy!” Golden laughs. Built on the site of a circa-1860 Italianate mansion belonging to the Herndon family, the current building’s four floors served different purposes over the years. The third and fourth floors were grand vehicle showrooms for nearly 40 years before the changing size of modern cars made these formerly spectacular
showrooms obsolete. The floors were transformed into office spaces and, eventually, storage. Fuse dug into the renovations in 2016, bringing the 6,000-square-foot floor of the building — which had not been occupied in three decades — into the 21st century and preserving the historic character of the space. When the Fuse Factory officially opened in November 2016, the midcentury
modern vibe completely hid the fact that, a year prior, the space was vacant and deteriorating. Now, exposed brick walls instantly created an industrial atmosphere while a number of swings and smooth wood-grain workbenches added an air of refinement. Rustic met quaint. Vintage now showcases modern. The floor’s new look reflects its new, positive future: unique, optimistic and always bright.
know how, so they consulted as many people as they could. “Despite the dirt, the pigeons and the smell, I recognized the beauty and worth of preserving this gem and opening it to the community,” Ginna says. More than anything, they just wanted to contribute to the rejuvenation of the Port City. Surprises, such as gorgeous original Alabama pine hardwood floors underneath tiles throughout the first floor, kept the team intrigued and excited along the way.
In the end, the Inges transformed the church into The Steeple, a music and event venue in the heart of Downtown Mobile. Restoration, for Zeiders, is about making Mobile into the best place it can possibly be while also preserving its history. “We are a people and a culture based in tradition, and so much of that is wrapped into these buildings,” she says with fervor. “Our tradition and culture and the heritage of our city are what keep people here and bring people back.”
THE STEEPLE
Now a site for gorgeous weddings and mystery concerts, The Steeple on St. Francis has come a long way from the vacant church it was just a few years ago. Ginna and Cliff Inge scooped up the 19th-century house of worship in 2015, and a year’s worth of renovation was necessary to bring the structure back to life. Part of the roof was falling through, which meant that the church had a handful of unorthodox occupants. “The Inges brought someone in to look at the space, and they spent most of their time trying to shoo birds away. Tons of pigeons were coming in through the steeple!” executive director MaryLacey Zeiders of the venue shares. The Inges saw the church on television one night, and it was theirs a week later. Even though they wanted to save the building, they didn’t quite 44 mobilebaymag.com | february 2017
PHOTO BY GINNA INGE
Built: 1842 (opened) Location: St. Francis St. NRHP: 1984 • Unoccupied: 21 years thesteeplemobile.com
NASH/FORD AUTOMOTIVE BUILDING Built: 1925 • Location: St. Louis Street NRHP: 2016 as part of the Automotive Alley National Register District Unoccupied: 10 years • oldemobile.com • mcnairhp.com In the process of moving on up, the duo behind Olde Mobile Antiques actually headed down to St. Louis Street. After years of contemplating a move and expanding their growing showroom, owners Greg Reynolds and Charles Parmenter stumbled upon the Nash/ Ford Automotive Building a few blocks from Dauphin Street. “It had a great look, a great ambiance, and it was a perfect space to let us expand our huge monthly estate sales. We plan to be in by May,” Parmenter says. Perhaps it’s only fitting for these two historians to move their business into a structure with such strong historical ties. They envision taking advantage of incredible architectural details, such as the magnificent 28-foot dome ceilings, red brick walls and a faux rollup garage door. “It’s going to look just like it did
in the 1920s,” Parmenter explains as he details their blueprint for restoration. Since a project of this caliber always comes with its challenges, the duo hired a professional team to provide assistance. McNair Historic Preservation has guided Parmenter and Reynolds through the challenging process of attaining historic tax credits, a huge incentive for anyone looking to restore aged or decrepit buildings. “It is our goal to help find contemporary solutions for historic buildings,” owner Stephen McNair shares. He and his team helped Olde Mobile Antiques’ owners with planning, design and implementation, ensuring that they met the necessary regulations for their credits. (The firm also aided in the restoration of the KittrellMiller building and placed the Isle
Dauphine on the National Register of Historic Places.) The federal tax credit for the Nash/Ford building, for instance, gives the owners a 20 percent return for each dollar spent on restoration. McNair continues, “It’s all about preserving the character of a building. You want to walk in and see that this was an automobile showroom.” For Parmenter and Reynolds, jumping into a huge renovation project took some “daring and imagination,” but they couldn’t be happier about the move, which will allow them to walk or bike between home and work. “Plus, 90 percent of our customers are thrilled that we’re moving Downtown,” Parmenter notes. “We all want more people to come Downtown in Mobile, to take part in its history.”
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KITTRELL/MILLER DODGE BUILDING Built: 1926 Location: 400 St. Louis St. NHRP: 2016 as part of the Automotive Alley National Register District Unoccupied: 1 - 2 years precision-eng.com
For decades, Mobilians ventured to St. Louis Street to buy or repair their Dodge vehicles. Then car dealerships moved west, leaving the building up for grabs. While a few other businesses have called the place home in the intervening years, it currently sits empty as it awaits its tune-up and a new life ahead. Like the Nash/Ford building, Kittrell-Miller has been added to the Automotive Alley National Register District. Also as with Nash/Ford, McNair Historic Preservation has helped with designs and federal and state historical tax credits that aid immensely in the restoration efforts. Bought by Precision Engineers, the Kittrell-Miller building features unique and eye-catching showroom windows, which the new tenant plans to lovingly restore. “The proposal is to save all the original storefront windows, the showroom tiles, all of the exterior brick, and a canopy over the front door to match the original 1926 design,” Stephen McNair explains. The entire land parcel takes up a whole city block and is about 60,000 square feet with nearly 50,000 square feet being interior space. Searching for a location equidistant from Mobile and Baldwin counties, Precision Engineering also wanted to enhance the downtown community. “We believe that downtown Mobile is going to continue its resurgence and become a destination for new residents, businesses, retail and restaurants,” says Joe Kenny with Precision. The company hopes to be done with renovations in 2018.
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ISLE DAUPHINE Built: 1950s Location: Dauphin Island NRHP: 2017 (pending) Unoccupied: 1 - 2 years isledauphine.com
“It’s like California came to Dauphin Island.” These words from Cart Blackwell, assistant director of the Mobile Historic Development Commission, perfectly describe the retro-style circular architecture of Dauphin Island’s quintessential members-only club. The structure looks as though it were ripped from a “Mad Men” episode and transplanted onto the island community. Mobile architect Arch Winter brought the unique building into existence. Constructed in the 1950s, the Isle Dauphine functioned for decades as the barrier island’s exclusive “country club-esque” gathering spot for property owners on the island. At the time, membership in Isle Dauphine was a precious commodity. In 2012, the club closed for financial reasons, and the property sat empty for just over one year. However, the golf club and restaurant reopened to the public in 2015 with some restoration, thanks to the Dauphin Island Property Owners Association, which owns the building. Rather than running the businesses themselves, they now lease the space to others who now run the various businesses. Blackwell further describes the Isle Dauphine: “It’s something we don’t see often here. It’s not your typical Southern structure. It speaks of cultural impulses, of post-War America, and you can’t get more appropriate for Dauphin Island than this wonderful pleasure palace.” MB
Special thanks to Cart Blackwell, Stephen McNair and Jaime Betbeze for the historical background on buildings featured in this story.
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Senseof Place “The City of Six Flags” could just as easily be known as “The City of Five Senses.” Here, MB celebrates the little things that have a big impact on how we experience our home by the Bay.
text by BRECK PAPPAS
O
PHOTO BY ADAIR FREEMAN RUTLEDGE
ne of the best accounts of antebellum Mobile comes from an English captain named John W. Oldmixon. In 1855, after spending a significant amount of time on the shores of Mobile Bay and those of the Gulf, the captain professed, “Nothing of the kind can be more admirable than these shores; the celestial blue of the ocean, the dazzling white purity of the beach, the aromatic perfume of these interminable pine forests, and the luscious odor of a thousand flowering shrubs and creeping tendrils, all for a moment fill the soul with delight…” The Mobile of today has little in common with its 1855 self: Admiral Farragut was yet to steam into Mobile Bay, Joe Cain was yet to dress as a Chickasaw Indian chief and a car wouldn’t drive through the Bankhead Tunnel for another 86 years. But if there’s anything to take away from Oldmixon’s account, it’s that Mobile has always been a feast — for the eyes, ears, nose, mouth and hands. And though much of Oldmixon’s Mobile has been lost and altered, the sensations of daily life on the Bay remain unchanged from the captain’s 1855 observations and are likely to endure long after we’re gone. Here, get in touch with your sensual side as MB celebrates the glorious frenzy of a city that never fails to fill our souls with delight.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP / PHOTO BY FONTAINE HOWARD, PHOTO BY HAERTEL PRITCHARD, PHOTO BY JEFF AND MEGGAN HALLER
Sight
Mobile sure is easy on the eyes. Where camellias burst then sag under the weight of a winter rain; Azalea trail maids’ dresses bobble like newfound Easter eggs on a battleship gray porch floor; A stately, serious cannon sports a fall explosion of orange or blue; Government Street’s living canopy extends its reach;
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The right-hand lane disappears beneath a summer afternoon flood; The blinding lights of the Bankhead Tunnel illuminate the drive; A pelican plummets head-first into the Bay faster than you can say “dinner;” Spanish moss sags like a beard; And the sun sets for Dauphin Island alone.
PHOTO BY KATHY HICKS
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Smell Inhale slowly and breathe in our city. Where magnolia, jasmine and pine tantalize; The scent of roasted peanuts spills onto Lower Dauphin through the door of A&M Peanut Shop; Rain comes and goes, leaving the crisp air fresh and earthy;
Chimneys and grills puff on gameday; Aromas of funnel cakes and MoonPies mingle with cigarette smoke and stale beer post-parade; A brackish breeze washes over Mobile Bay; And the interior of the USS Alabama rests musky and metallic.
PHOTO BY DAN ANDERSON
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT / PHOTO BY ADAIR FREEMAN RUTLEDGE, PHOTO BY DOUGLAS ANDERSON, PHOTO BY ADAIR FREEMAN RUTLEDGE, PHOTO BY JEFF AND MEGGAN HALLER
Taste
Don’t fret Mobile: The tongue isn’t left out of the fun. Where bushwackers pack a chocolaty kick; Cast nets are thrown with a briny aftertaste; Rogue waves deliver salt to the lips; A sweet tooth meets its match at the hands of a
Pollman or George; Satsumas burst with wintertime delight; Seafood is so fresh the taste of the waves lingers; And mouthwatering hotdogs with sauerkraut and onion rings reside on Old Shell Road.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP / PHOTO BY TODD DOUGLAS, PHOTO BY WES HODGE, PHOTO BY MATTHEW COUGHLIN
Sound
Mobile was made for the ears. Where a fishing rod spins with a million miniature clicks; A rocking chair groans under the weight of that last bowl of gumbo; Football pads crunch on a Friday night; Your favorite song dissolves into static as you glide into the tunnel;
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Crickets and cicadas and tree frogs screech in rhythmic pandemonium and a mosquito hums its way closer to your ear; A Little Leaguer sends one deep into left field with a satisfying clink of aluminum; The thunderous roar of rain on the roof of your car — and then abrupt, complete silence as you enter the Bankhead Tunnel.
PHOTO BY MAJOR ADAM COLBERT
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Touch
Without texture or temperature, what a dreary place this would be! Where our favorite snacks are “finger” foods, meant to be handled, deveined, shelled and shucked; Saltwater dries stiff on sunburned skin; The heat rolls out of an open car door and the cold burns from a metal bleacher; Thick humidity chokes and charms;
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT / PHOTO BY KATHY HICKS, PHOTO BY JEFF AND MEGGAN HALLER, PHOTO BY JEFF AND MEGGAN HALLER, PHOTO BY MATTHEW COUGHLIN
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Wood is weathered and coarse, from the boards of a pier to the trunk of an oak; The Bay floor oozes between skeptical toes; High velocity beads sting hands on a nearfreezing night; Brass instruments rattle the chest across a cold barricade; And rain falls heavy and warm and often.
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BAY BOY
The Big Ride A frenzied young Watt dashes for the lineup at his first Carnival parade ride. text by WATT KEY • photo by JEFF AND MEGGAN HALLER
I
mmediately after college, I returned home to live with my parents again in Point Clear. I didn’t have a detailed life plan, but I knew I wanted to live in the Bay area. And my new job as a computer programmer for a Mobile company seemed like a good start. My boss had even given me a cellular phone, in those days an expensive accessory that made me feel I was destined for great things. While my professional life seemed to be on track, my social life was lacking. Now my college friends were scattered across the country, and I’d lost touch with my high school buddies. I was the youngest person in my office, and there wasn’t much nightlife to be found in Point Clear. I went to work and came home each day, hoping that somehow the rest would work itself out. But little did I appreciate the eagerness with which Southern women will steer your social life for you. I was coming home from work one evening, driving across the Causeway, when I answered a call from Mom on my cell phone. She said my older cousin had gotten me into a Mardi Gras organization. “Should I do it?” I asked her. “Of course!” she said. “Your grandfather and lots of your Mobile cousins are in it. It’s lots of fun.” Unless Mom had put them up to it, I couldn’t imagine how anyone would have suspected I’d consider joining a Mardi Gras organization. As a family, we’d never participated much in Carnival. Dad wasn’t involved, and we had always gone to Disney World during the break. I only recalled going to a couple of parades when I was a child. I held lingering memories of a cold, damp Bienville Square packed with people. Colorful confetti and tremendous floats moved under oak limbs in the wet dark, and hard candy rained down over me in impossible quantities. Then there was the memory of a giant, terrifying skeleton stalking me through a crowd. When he was looming overhead, he tilted up his mask, and I saw another cousin’s face behind it. The sensory impact of the experience was so overwhelming that it stayed with me — almost dreamlike. Considering my other social outlets though, I didn’t really see a downside. “OK,” I said. “I’ll do it.” I called my cousin, and he gave me the time and place for my initiation ceremony. On the appointed evening, I met him outside the clubhouse, or “den” as they called it. Then, he slipped a hood over my head and led me inside. As I suspected, the initiation ceremony was nothing more than about 10 60 mobilebaymag.com | february 2017
minutes of silliness before I was unmasked and ushered into the crowd of onlookers. I immediately found myself amidst more of my older cousins, people I only knew from summers on the Bay and trips to the hunting camp. And I had a revelation that this is what they all did when they went back to Mobile. I was one of the youngest in the club. Over the months leading up to Mardi Gras, I went to the meetings and stood against the wall and soaked up the noise and chatted with the few people I knew. I didn’t feel my social life had gained the traction I was looking for, but it was better than spending the evenings alone in Point Clear. The day my parade finally arrived, I left Baldwin County to make the journey Downtown where I was to board my assigned float. I still drove my grandfather’s old F100 with a three-speed column shifter. While it wasn’t much to look at, it had always been reliable. In fact, it was so simple that I’d never had anything go wrong that I couldn’t limp home with. Having misjudged traffic and the challenges of navigating Downtown during Carnival, I soon found myself running dangerously late. I was somewhere in the mad ant bed of Downtown when, in a state of anxiety, I snapped the shifter off at the column. I found myself in the middle of the street holding it up in disbelief. Cars were soon honking behind me, and all I could do was helplessly rev the engine. I got out and dug around in the bed for a screwdriver. I soon found one, jammed it in the column and managed to get the truck into second gear.
Unable to get out of second gear, I lurched and sputtered as close as I could get to my parade. Then I pulled up on a curb, shut off the truck and started running. As I came to the lineup, it appeared that it was leaving at any moment. The generators were running, and the floats were full of maskers. I rushed into the costumes room. Most of the racks were already empty, and I couldn’t remember exactly where my section was. Fortunately, someone I knew came rushing through to get something he’d forgotten. “Which one?” I frantically asked. “You’re probably a Chinaman,” he said. “Geez, you better hurry up.” “Where’s all my stuff to throw?” The man was already hurrying away. “I don’t know,” he said over his shoulder. “They probably already loaded it up.” I grabbed the last Chinaman costume and got into it. It was so big that I felt I’d been draped in bed sheets. Then I pulled on a mask and jammed on the Chinaman hat and bolted out the door somewhere in the middle of the lineup. The scene was already riotous with maskers high above me yelling and rocking the floats with anticipation. I hiked up my pants and searched for fellow Chinamen but didn’t see any. I desperately looked about for assistance, but everyone was masked and I didn’t recognize a friend in the bunch. “Where do I go?!” I yelled up at someone. The man pointed dismissively up the line of floats and took a swig from a bottle. I held my pants with one hand and started running. Vikings. Penguins. Cowboys. Eskimos. Finally, I was at the beginning of the line, staring up at a float full of fish. “I don’t know where to go!” I yelled up. “Just come on,” someone shouted. “But I’m a Chinaman!” “We need a Chinaman. Get up here!” My first ride certainly got off to a bad start. I’d lost my family and had no throws. But once the marching band started beating their drums and the parade began to snake its way through a sea of cheering spectators, the incomparable thrill of celebrity fell over me. And there was one happy Chinaman dancing amongst the fish. MB
Watt’s latest novel, “Hideout,” is now available wherever books are sold. february 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 61
FEBRUARY / MARCH ON STAGE & EXHIBITS PG. 64 • MARCH HIGHLIGHTS PG. 66
USS ALABAMA LIVING HISTORY CREW DRILL
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
HIGHLIGHTS
through february 22
february 2
february 4 - 5
Winter Wednesdays
Beatriz Williams
USS Alabama Living History Crew Drill
10:30 a.m. - 11:30 a.m. These programs on gardening, history and Bellingrath’s collections will help you brighten up that green thumb during the winter months.
12 p.m. - 1 p.m. New York Times best-selling author Beatriz Williams celebrates her latest work “The Wicked City,” a novel about a love triangle set in the Jazz Age.
8 a.m. - 4 p.m. Historical reenactors bring the WWII battleship to life. Admission: children 5 and under, free; children 6 to 11, $6; children 12 and over and adults, $15.
BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME BELLINGRATH.ORG
PAGE AND PALETTE • 32 S. SECTION ST. 928-5295 • PAGEANDPALETTE.COM
USS BATTLESHIP MEMORIAL PARK USSALABAMA.COM
To have your event included in the online or print edition of Mobile Bay Magazine, email calendar@pmtpublishing.com. 62 mobilebaymag.com | february 2017
BCHM GOLF SCRAMBLE
february 16 BCHM Golf Scramble 8 a.m. - 9 a.m. Registration. Hit the green to raise money for the Baldwin County Heritage Museum. The museum hosts educational programs and classes for community members in addition to providing visitors with a glimpse into the past. GLEN LAKES GOLF CLUB • FOLEY
february 17 - 19 Mobile Area Orchid Society’s 40th Annual Orchid Show and Sale Noon - 5 p.m. Some of the organization’s best orchids will be on display. Also, members will be available to answer questions about the exotic flowers. BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME BELLINGRATH.ORG
february 18 Orange Beach Seafood Festival & Car Show 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Enjoy music, food and arts and crafts from more than 40 vendors. Proceeds from the event go toward the Orange Beach Sports Association. THE WHARF • ORANGE BEACH
february 18 MMOR Walking Dog Parade 10 a.m. Registration opens. 1 p.m. Parade starts. Join the Mystic Mutts of Revelry for their 14th annual walking parade with all benefits going toward The Haven in Fairhope. $10 per human age 6 or older; $10 per well-behaved, leashed and currently vaccinated dog. FAIRHOPER’S COMMUNITY PARK • 929-7402
february 28 Fat Tuesday Carnival season comes to a close. Catch MoonPies, beads, cups and more at parades on both sides of the Bay. VARIOUS LOCATIONS
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TENNESSEE WILLIAMS, AUTHOR OF “CAT ON A HOT TIN ROOF”
ON STAGE & EXHIBITS
february 3 - 5, 10 - 12 “Ripcord” 8 p.m. F / Sa. 2:30 p.m. Su. Theatre 98 presents an intriguing character study of two women at the Bristol Place Senior Living Facility. Tickets: $12 - $18. THEATRE 98 • 350 MORPHY AVE. 928-4366 • THEATRE98.COM
february 3 - 5, 10 - 12 “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof” 8 p.m. F / Sa. 2 p.m. Su. Journey back to 1950s Mississippi and watch as the drama unfolds in this quintessential Southern drama by Tennessee Williams. Tension boils over as Gooper, Mae, Brick and Maggie “the cat” come together to celebrate Big Daddy’s birthday. Tickets: $15 - 20. MOBILE THEATRE GUILD • 14 N. LAFAYETTE ST. 433-7513 • MOBILETHEATREGUILD.ORG
february 12 “Love Letters” 2 p.m. Experience a one-of-a-kind production where correspondence between two lovers provide the action. Tickets: adults, $15; students, $12. SOUTH BALDWIN COMMUNITY THEATRE • SBCT.BIZ
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MATTHEW MCNEAL. PHOTO BY EMILY MCBURNETT
february 15 - 19, 22 - 26 “Let’s Murder Marsha” 7:30 p.m. W - Sa, 2 p.m. Su. Don’t miss this comedy about a lover of murder mysteries who misinterprets her husband’s behavior and thinks he is trying to kill her. Tickets: adults, $15; students, $12. SOUTH BALDWIN COMMUNITY THEATRE SBCT.BIZ
february 16 Matthew McNeal 6:45 p.m. Doors open. 7 p.m. Show starts. The Mobile Museum of Art’s Live at the Museum series welcomes Americana artist Matthew McNeal to the stage. Tickets: $10 at the door. MOBILE MUSEUM OF ART MOBILEMUSEUMOFART.COM
february 18 ZZ Top 7 p.m. Doors open. 8 p.m. Show starts. Sing along to “Sharp Dressed Man” and other hits. Tickets: $46 - $126. SAENGER THEATRE • MOBILESAENGER.COM
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SPRING BIRD MIGRATION AT DAUPHIN ISLAND
MARCH HIGHLIGHTS
through april 30 Spring Bird Migration Welcome rare birds back to the United States as they head home from their winter vacation down south. DAUPHIN ISLAND
march 10 - 11 Mobile Historic Homes Tour Catch a glimpse inside some of Mobile’s oldest and most elaborate homes. HISTORIC MOBILE PRESERVATION SOCIETY 432-6161 • HISTORICMOBILE.ORG
march 11 American Cancer Society Chili Cook-off 11 a.m. Bring your appetite to this spicy competition for the best chili in the Port City. The American Cancer Society is the beneficiary of proceeds from the event. THE GROUNDS • 344-9858 FACEBOOK.COM/ACSCHILICOOKOFFMOBILE/
march 11 - 12 “Sleeping Beauty” 7:30 p.m. Sa. 2:30 p.m. Su. Aurora’s enchanting story comes to the stage at the Mobile Ballet’s spring performance. Tickets: $20 - $60. MOBILE CIVIC CENTER • MOBILEBALLET.ORG
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march 16 - 19 Plantasia Spring Plant Sale 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. F / Sa. 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. Su. Stock up on vegetables, trees, flowers and much more at this annual event benefiting Mobile Botanical Gardens. There is a preview event Thursday night from 4 p.m. - 7 p.m. MOBILE BOTANICAL GARDENS MOBILEBOTANICALGARDENS.ORG
march 17 - 19 Fairhope Arts and Crafts Festival 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. F / Sa. 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. S. Enjoy food and arts and crafts from more than 230 vendors. DOWNTOWN FAIRHOPE THEFAIRHOPEARTSANDCRAFTSFESTIVAL.COM
march 18 Downtown Cajun Cook-off Feast on Cajun cuisine from more than 22 local restaurants as a part of this event benefiting the Child Advocacy Center. CATHEDRAL SQUARE • CACMOBILE.ORG
march 22 - 25 Festival of Flowers Get inspiration from gardens all over the world at the Gulf Coast’s annual horticultural event. This year’s theme is “Wildly Whimsical.” Tickets: $14 at the gate; $13 for seniors; $12 in advance; free for children 12 and under; special rates for groups. PROVIDENCE HOSPITAL • FESTIVALOFFLOWERS.COM
march 25 Azalea Trail Run Lace up for the 40th anniversary of this classic Mobile 10K, 5K and 2K race through some of the city’s historic streets. DOWNTOWN MOBILE • PCPACERS.ORG
march 25 Elberta German Sausage Festival 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. Pick up arts and crafts, take a spin on carnival rides, dance to live music and, of course, nosh on German sausage at this Elberta tradition that benefits the fire department. THE TOWN PARK • THE INTERSECTION OF MAIN AND STATE STREETS • ELBERTAFIRE.COM
march 30 Heartstrings in Harmony 5:30 p.m. Appetizers and wine. 7 p.m. Musical performance begins. Enjoy food, art and musical performances at this event benefiting Most Pure Heart of Mary Catholic School. Tickets: $50. THE STEEPLE • 251 ST. FRANCIS STREET FACEBOOK.COM/HEARTSTRINGSINHARMONY
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ASK MCGEHEE text by TOM MCGEHEE
Wasn’t there a terrible airplane crash in Mobile during one Mardi Gras?
ABOVE A Douglas DC-6 airplane similar to the National Airlines aircraft that crashed off the Mobile coast on Valentine’s Day, 1953, on its flight from Tampa to New Orleans. The Port City was at the height of Carnival celebration at the time.
Actually, the city of Mobile has been connected with two air disasters that occurred during the Mardi Gras festivities. On February 28, 1946, a two-engine Navy training plane flying low over the city struck the cross atop the south tower of the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception before crashing into a shed on South Lawrence Street and killing the pilot. The cause of the crash is unknown.
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A far worse disaster occurred some 7 miles south of Fort Morgan on February 14, 1953, as Mobile geared up for the coronation of Queen Gordon Unger. A National Airlines f light from Tampa was headed to New Orleans when it radioed the Pensacola Airport regarding what was described as “severe turbulence.” The plane’s captain announced they would be descending to 4,500 feet. That message, received at 5:12 p.m., was the last anyone received from
Flight 470. It never made it to New Orleans, where it was scheduled to land just 35 minutes later. The next morning, the front page of the Mobile Register ran two lead stories. The first headline boldly proclaimed, “1953 Mardi Gras Queen Crowned by King Felix in Brilliant Ceremony.” Beside it in smaller print: “Airliner Vanishes with 49 Persons.” A third, smaller piece noted that parades had been cancelled in both Mobile and New Orleans due to heavy rains.
The Coast Guard cutter Blackthorn was sent out into the extremely rough seas on a search that lasted 43 hours. Among the floating debris recovered were three empty life rafts, assorted luggage, a U.S. mailbag and the bodies of three men and 14 women. The condition of these led experts to conclude that the aircraft had hit the water with a “tremendous impact.” The Register also reported that “paradoxically the cutter with the crash victims arrived on the heels of the official entry by boat of Mobile’s King of Mardi Gras.” The “grim faced” Coast Guardsmen delivered the canvas-wrapped victims to Higgins Mortuary on Government Street where family members would attempt to identify them. Despite what the experts advised, anxious families of the missing passengers hired shrimp boats and other craft to search the Gulf. One father noted that since most of those recovered were older that perhaps the younger passengers had been able to escape in the fourth life raft. More than 40 planes f lew over the area when weather permitted, but no survivors were ever found. It was well into May before divers found the wreckage of the DC-6 in 90 feet of swirling, murky Gulf waters. The disaster would prove to be the worst in the history of National Airlines, which would ultimately be absorbed by Pan Am in 1980. And, in an odd twist of fate, 1980 was also the year the cutter Blackthorn struck a tanker taking 23 crew members to their deaths. The tragedy occurred in Tampa, Florida, where Flight 470 had originated. MB
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IN LIVING COLOR
A Timeless Celebration This digitally colorized image of a 1938 archival print proves that some things forever stay the same. Original photo courtesy of Doy Leale McCall Rare Book and Manuscript Library • Colorization by Dynamichrome Limited
Some of the most beloved aspects of Carnival are the cherished, time-honored traditions. While it could have just as easily meandered down Royal Street this February, this gilded king’s float made its rounds on the parade route in 1938. Gordon Porcher Hamilton reigned as King Felix III, while Miss Helen Fowlkes was crowned queen for the season. Vernon Fowlkes and Gordon Stimpson served as her pages and Peter Bryce Hamilton, Jr. and Carl Haas served as pages to His Majesty. George Haas, Jr. and John Selby were equerries for the Court. This year’s royals will likewise don the exquisite regalia of silk and satin jeweled garments, hats, tights, capes and crowns as they ride along the parade route on the Saturday and Monday prior to Fat Tuesday. One of the original page costumes from this 1938 photograph can now be seen on display at the Mobile Carnival Museum.
Are you related to or do you know anyone from this historic photograph? Email your reactions to bpappas@pmtpublishing.com. 70 mobilebaymag.com | february 2017
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