Mobile Bay Magazine - March 2018 by Mobile Bay Magazine

Mobile Bay THE LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE FOR MOBILE AND BALDWIN COUNTIES

HOME & GARDEN ISSUE

NAILED IT!

The Perfect Picket Fence for Every Home

March 2018

GLAM kitchens

BRATING

YEARS

Five Spaces to Inspire Your Next Reno

TIV LO AL OF F

BOILING POT!

BILL-Eâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BACON PUTS ON A CRAWFISH BOIL TO IMPRESS

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FEATURES MARCH 2018

VOLUME XXXIV / ISSUE 3

Demystifying the Crawfish Boil William Stitt reveals the secrets to a foolproof mudbug feast.

Moonshine Manor THE LOW-COUNTRY-STYLE CRAWFISH BOIL AT OLD 27 GRILL FEATURES PORK LARDON FROM BILL-E’S BACON. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

The Deeses’ home in Montrose is both welcoming and efficient.

Perfecting the Picket Fence Discover the history and appeal of the classic American staple.

Kitchen Envy Let these stylish Mobile kitchens inspire your next renovation!

ON OUR COVER

The sleek, off-white kitchen of this Spring Hill home strikes the perfect balance of old world charm and slick modern accents. PHOTO BY JUSTIN CORDOVA

 It’s time to dust off, spruce-up and renovate your abode! MB has inspirational spaces, indoors and out, that will make you green with envy, pages 59 through 74.

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DEPARTMENTS MARCH 2018

VOLUME XXXIV / ISSUE 3

LEFT The guacamole, fire-roasted salsa and queso dip are the perfect snack with crispy tortilla chips at El Camino Taco Shack. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU RIGHT One of the many residents on Mac Walcott’s small-herd farm, this pastured porker makes himself at home in the field. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

9 EDITOR’S NOTE 10 REACTION 12 ODDS & ENDS 14 THE DISH 18 GUMBO Around and Around We Go The Festival of Flowers celebrates its silver anniversary with a stunner. 27 MIXOLOGY 28 TASTINGS El Camino Taco Shack Get a taste of Tex-Mex at a hole in the wall on the Eastern Shore.

30 BAY TABLES Gentleman Farmer Mac Walcott sets out to prove that small farming can work. 78 MARCH CALENDAR 84 HISTORY Spolia Explore the story, magic and chic of architectural salvage in Mobile. 90 ARCHIVES Tub Night Frances Beverly reminisces on a time when baths were a Saturday tradition.

92 ASK MCGEHEE What’s the history of the Cheese Cottage building? Revisit the many lives of the revitalized gas station on St. Louis Street that’s now taking downtown by storm. 94 IN LIVING COLOR Droppin’ a Line, circa 1935 Lazy days are best spent on the pond with a fishing pole in hand, as demonstrated by this barefooted youngster from years gone by.

 The 25th anniversary of the Providence Hospital Foundation’s Festival of Flowers sparkles with the theme “A Celebration Promenade.” Meet the florists and designers building one of its much-anticipated attractions, page 18. 6 mobilebaymag.com | march 2018

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Mobile Bay VOLUME XXXIV

No3

MARCH 2018

PUBLISHER T. J. Potts

ASSISTANT PUBLISHER

EDITORIAL CONSULTANT

EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR/WEB

SENIOR WRITER EDITORIAL ASSISTANT PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ART DIRECTOR EDITORIAL INTERN

Stephen Potts Judy Culbreth Maggie Lacey Abby Parrott Breck Pappas Hallie King Gin Mathers Laurie Kilpatrick John Robertson

ADVERTISING

SALES MANAGER

Joseph A. Hyland

Adelaide Smith McAleer ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Anna Pavao

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

ADMINISTRATION CIRCULATION Anita Miller ACCOUNTING Jody Acreman

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Frances Beverly, Cartledge Blackwell, Mallory Boykin, Tom McGehee CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Patrick Michael Chin, Colleen Comer, Justin Cordova, Todd Douglas, Summer Ennis, Elizabeth Gelineau, Ted Miles, Nicole Quinn, Stephen Savage ADVERTISING AND EDITORIAL OFFICES

3729 Cottage Hill Road, Suite H Mobile, AL 36609-6500 251-473-6269 Subscription rate is $21.95 per year. Subscription inquiries and all remittances should be sent to: Mobile Bay P.O. Box 923773 Norcross, GA 30010-3773 1-855-357-3137 MOVING? Please note: U.S. Postal Service will not forward magazines mailed through their bulk mail unit. Please send old label along with your new address four to six weeks prior to moving. Mobile Bay is published 12 times per year for the Gulf Coast area. All contents Â© 2018 by PMT Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of the contents without written permission is prohibited. Comments written in this magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the ownership or the management of Mobile Bay. This magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photography or artwork. All submissions will be edited for length, clarity and style. PUBLISHED BY PMT PUBLISHING INC .

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EXTRAS | EDITOR’S NOTE

Around the House

arch falls right as the hectic holidays and rip-roaring Mardi Gras season all come to a close — but before the dreams of summer take over our thoughts. It is the perfect lull between seasons to catch up, make our to-dos and tackle some spring cleaning. For me, it has always been a very creative time and is the perfect season for our Home & Garden issue. I’ve lived in everything from an 1830s Creole cottage to an uber-mod 1960s glass and concrete pad, and I find each and every architectural style exciting in its own way. This issue is all about finding what’s right for you and your home. Maybe it’s a freshly painted white picket fence to spruce up that landscaping you’ve been ignoring, or perhaps it’s a sleek new kitchen island to give your home the counter space your growing family needs. Whatever task you’ve been dying to tackle, now is the time! Mobile has an amazing vernacular from which to draw your inspiration — whether you enjoy Sunday drives through the Oakleigh Garden District, stroll the boardwalk in Point Clear or check out the classic ranches of Spring Hill, you will no doubt find inspiration from the quality work of Mobile designers of yesteryear. We cherish our architectural heritage and take pride in our oak trees and flower gardens. When a building must be torn down at long last, we salvage and repurpose the materials so they can live on for another generation. So make your to-do lists with the home in mind this month! I plan to use March to get my flower beds in order for summer planting and to stalk my favorite antique galleries for those last few pieces my living room has been needing for years. I might even meet with an architect to talk about that addition I’ve always wanted to do. Who am I kidding? I’m not Martha Stewart! I’ll probably just watch another season of “Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee” and put off that spring cleaning one more month … See you in April!

PANSIES AND VIOLAS (THEIR MORE DIMINUTIVE COUSIN) ARE JUST A FEW OF THE MANY AMAZING, EDIBLE FLOWERS. WE DROPPED THEM IN OUR SPRING COCKTAIL (PAGE 27), BUT THEY LOOK GREAT ON SALADS AND DESSERTS, TOO!

[LOVE THIS ISSUE]

THE RIGHT BARSTOOL CAN SET THE TONE FOR AN ENTIRE KITCHEN. LOVE THIS SWANKY, MODERN VERSION WITH OFF-WHITE LEATHER AND BRASS LEGS BY LEXINGTON, AVAILABLE AT MALOUF FURNITURE IN FOLEY. CHECK OUT MORE BARSTOOL IDEAS IN OUR KITCHEN FEATURE, PAGE 66.

EL CAMINO TACO SHACK TOOK THE TRUSTY MARGARITA AND MADE IT ABSOLUTE PERFECTION WITH A MINI BOTTLE OF CHAMPAGNE STICKING RIGHT OUT OF THE GLASS! IT IS SPARKLY AND REFRESHING — AND MY NEW GO-TO COCKTAIL!

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

Maggie Lacey EXECUTIVE EDITOR

maggie@pmtpublishing.com I SNAGGED THIS VINTAGE RUFFLED CAPE AT BACKFLASH ANTIQUES IN DOWNTOWN MOBILE! PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

 It’s time for spring cleaning and home projects! Get inspired by the interiors, landscapes and outdoor entertaining ideas in this issue!

THE GREEN RANGE IN JESSICA AND DANNY DEESE’S FUN KITCHEN IS FROM BLUESTAR. RANGES COME IN MORE THAN 750 COLORS AND FINISHES AND CAN BE ORDERED THROUGH MOBILE APPLIANCE.

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EXTRAS | REACTION

Tell us how you really feel... MB’S 40 UNDER 40 PARTY AT THE STEEPLE / PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

WELL DONE! On our January issue

40 OF A KIND

GANGSTER IN PARADISE

On MB’s new class of 40 Under 40

On January’s Ask McGehee about Al Capone’s brief stopover in Mobile

Congratulations to a well-deserving class! Proud to call many of you a part of the St. Paul’s family. We are so thankful for the work each of you are doing to transform our community. - St. Paul’s Episcopal School Alumni We’re proud to say that three of the best young leaders in Mobile are also Big Brothers! Congratulations to Big Brothers Todd LaCour, Hunt Griffith and Paul Beckmann on an incredible accomplishment! A BIG thank you to all of our other supporters who made the list as well. - Big Brothers Big Sisters of South Alabama

MOBILE MEDIUM On January’s “It’s in the Cards” Loved the tarot story! Inspired idea! - Bill Miller

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Very interesting. When I was growing up, we were members of First Baptist Church. There was an elderly couple there, Mr. and Mrs. Connolly (not sure of spelling). The “legend” was that Mr. Connolly had been a cellmate of Al Capone’s and had met Mrs. Connolly when she was involved with prison ministries. - Carolyn Hines Mikell

GETTING TO KNOW YOU Do you have an idea for a story or want to share your thoughts and reactions to this issue with us? EMAIL maggie@pmtpublishing.com MAIL P.O. Box 66200, Mobile, AL 36660 WEB mobilebaymag.com

Just wanted to shout out “kudos” to the whole staff. I think the January issue is one of the most powerful, well-constructed, full-of-meaty-information magazines in many years. I really enjoyed it cover to cover. Thank you! - Valery Smith Thanks, Mobile Bay, for giving us such a classy, educational and entertaining magazine that makes us proud every month to live in our wonderful town! - Sue Cato Winter

[MORE ONLINE]

Find additional local stories on mobilebaymag.com. Here’s what’s new on the website! Prep your Calendar The Port City is buzzing with activity this month! In addition to the events featured on page 78, go online for even more festivals, cook-offs and can’t-miss shows.

Take it Outside

PHOTO BY NICOLE QUINN

Meet our new online columnist, exterior designer Catherine Arensberg! Each month, Catherine will share tips for bringing fresh design to your outdoor space, no matter your budget.

Beautiful Baths Get inspired by this compilation of dreamy, spa-like retreats. From dark and dramatic to bright and cheery, these local homeowners showcase their stunning designs.

Join our List Get the latest in fashion, food, art and events delivered right to your inbox. Visit mobilebaymag.com to sign up for our email list.

Party Pics Share your event! Just fill out the Party Pics registration form on the MB website and submit your event photos to be featured in a gallery on the Web.

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EXTRAS | ODDS & ENDS

Marching Home text by HALLIE KING

One in

10,000

chance of finding a four-leaf clover in your lifetime. 100 years of

DAYLIGHT SAVING The U.S. adopted daylight saving time on March 19, 1918. If you’re certain you learned it as “savings” with an “s,” don’t fret — far more people Google the incorrect phrase each year than the correct one.

SPRING FORWARD

MARCH 11 SUNDAY • 2:00 A.M.

percent of people who tackle a home remodel include the kitchen as part of the project. Even a minor kitchen remodel can lend an 80% average return on investment when you go to sell your home.

The month of March was named after Mars, the Roman god of war. March originated as the first month of the Roman calendar!

[MARCH 12TH]

PLANT A FLOWER DAY The folks at the Providence Hospital Foundation take flowers to the next level with the 25th anniversary of the Festival of Flowers on March 22 - 25.

Read more about this year’s festival on page 18.

Crawfish turn red when cooked because of a chemical called , which reacts when heated and overrides the crustaceans’ naturally cool-toned chemical.

Learn how to host your own backyard crawfish boil on page 39. 12 mobilebaymag.com | march 2018

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FOOD | THE DISH

Bite of the Bay MB’s contributing food fanatics share the local dishes that made them hungry for more.

SCOTT SPECK, Music Director, Mobile Symphony Orchestra

LUNCH AT NOBLE SOUTH “I love the chicken thighs, kale salad and squash casserole. Also, the servers are the best! In fact, two of them used to sing in the University of South Alabama Concert Choir, so we performed together onstage in “Carmina Burana” and Beethoven’s Symphony No. 9. As a conductor, I’m used to serving up musical delicacies, so it’s nice of them to return the favor.” OYSTER LOAF FROM THE DEW DROP INN. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

NOBLE SOUTH • 203 DAUPHIN ST. • 690-6824 THENOBLESOUTHRESTAURANT.COM

TAYLOR HOUSER, Advancement Director, Bayside Academy

TOAST AT JUBILEE POOLSIDE GRILL “I love the crab and avocado toast at Jubilee Poolside Grill in the Grand Hotel. Lump crabmeat and avocado are served on toast points, topped with a fresh red chili mint vinaigrette, toasted peanuts and radish shavings. It makes a great light springtime lunch, and it’s delicious!” JUBILEE POOLSIDE GRILL • 1 GRAND BLVD. POINT CLEAR • 928-9201 • MARRIOTTGRAND. COM/RESTAURANTS-DINING/JUBILEE-POOLSIDEBAR-AND-GRILL-20.HTML

MARY STEWART NELSON, Strategic Market Director, Johnson & Johnson

CAULIFLOWER BOWL AT ZOËS KITCHEN “I have a new lunch addiction at Zoës Kitchen, the kind that makes you not mind eating alone. The Cauliflower Rice Bowl is the perfect balance of spicy and crisp. I add grilled chicken and stir the bowl up to use all of the delicious tzatziki sauce, guaranteeing a great bite every time. Adorned with fresh cucumber resting on riced cauliflower, you can’t help but feel that you made a healthier selection without sacrificing any taste.”

WILLIAM W. OPPENHEIMER, President, Enveloc, Inc.

OYSTERS AT DEW DROP INN “Oysters: the time is now. Fried oysters are available most anywhere, but it’s hard to beat the sublimely delicate bivalve experience in midtown at Mobile’s oldest restaurant, established in 1924. I ordered the oyster loaf; the oysters are uniformly medium-sized, the coating is crispy, and I like to add just a little salt and a dab of tartar sauce. This lunch is half a dozen of the tastiest sea creatures of all.” DEW DROP INN • 1808 OLD SHELL ROAD

ZOËS KITCHEN • 3980 AIRPORT BLVD. , SUITE A

473-7872 • FACEBOOK.COM/WORLDFA-

344-9445 • ZOESKITCHEN.COM

MOUSHOTDOGS

 What dishes made you drool and left you hungry for more? Share them on our Facebook page! 14 mobilebaymag.com | march 2018

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GUMBO | COMMUNITY

Around and Around We Go After a quarter-century run, Providence Hospital Foundationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Festival of Flowers hops back in the saddle for another year of floral splendor. text by BRECK PAPPAS photos by TODD DOUGLAS and ELIZABETH GELINEAU

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obilians know a thing or two about throwing a party. Gaze up into the branches of any tree along the parade route and you’ll find the evidence, limp and faded Mardi Gras beads dangling in Carnival limbo. And as any good party host will tell you, never end a big celebration without having another one in the works. After all the floats are tucked away, streets brushed clean and calendars flipped to March, many of the creative minds behind the season of revelry have already turned their full attentions to the next task at hand: Providence Hospital Foundation’s Festival of Flowers. In the early 1990s, Tommy Zieman Jr., a former chairman of the Providence Hospital Foundation Board, was visiting the famous Chelsea Flower Show on the grounds of London’s Royal Hospital Chelsea when he was struck with a realization: “Why not try the same thing in Mobile?” The show, he thought, could serve as a fundraiser benefitting the hospital’s mission while showcasing Mobile’s landscaping prowess, talented florists and thriving horticultural industry. By 1994, Zieman’s idea had come to fruition. As tractor-trailers hauled palm trees, flowers, shrubs and tents onto the grounds of Spring Hill College (where the fete was held until its move to Providence Hospital in 2006), Zieman described the scene as if “the circus was coming to town.”

OPPOSITE The anticipated floral carousel, illustrated here by the festival’s lead landscape architect Blake Smisson, is just one of the many floral venues that will be on display at the annual fundraiser benefitting Providence Hospital.

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No Walk in the Park Since that day, the Festival of Flowers has evolved in grand fashion, and Carroll O’Neill, events coordinator at Providence Hospital, is quick to explain why. “There’s a lot of talent in this community,” she says. “It’s so amazing to me how many people come out and help and donate their time and talents to put this show together. And it takes a true village.” O’Neill, who’s been involved with the festival for 10 years, says the four-day showcase takes almost a year to conceptualize, organize and execute. “The design committee starts meeting at the first of the summer, and we meet continuously until we decide on a theme, a logo, a look … and

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from there, it just kind of takes off. It’s not something that’s done in three months.” While every year has brought something fresh and exciting to the festivities, the 2018 installment, to be held at the Providence Hospital Campus from March 22 - 25, is especially significant as it’s the festival’s 25th annual celebration. As this year’s lead landscape architect, Blake Smisson (of WAS Design Inc. in Mobile) was tasked with developing the year’s theme and establishing a consistency throughout the exhibits. “Each garden venue will be unique, but an overall cohesive look will be achieved by repeating colors, patterns and materials

throughout the show,” Smisson explains. “It takes almost a year for the theme to fully develop and the help of many talented volunteers to iron out the event details. Now that the show is less than two months away, I believe we have a good game plan, but elements are still changing from day to day.” Themed “A Celebration Promenade,” this year, the grounds will be styled after the features of a city park — a meadow, a playground, a zoo, a square and a much-anticipated “floral carousel,” among countless other curiosities. “We add new features every year to create a little excitement,” O’Neill says, “and the carousel is definitely one of those.”

ABOVE Floral vignettes from past events, including a picturesque garden swing and a verdant waterfall tablescape, demonstrate a hint of what’s to come. Under 300,000 square feet of tents, this year’s festival will include seminars and demonstrations, a children’s playground, a wondrous cypress archway, a flower shop, a photography gallery, a cafe, water features and the carousel exhibit, among countless attractions. The landscape development master plan for the 2018 Festival of Flowers was created by lead landscape architect Blake Smisson of WAS Design Inc. This year’s honorary chair is Ann Bedsole Holmes and the featured artist is Augusta Hyland Wilson. PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

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Drawing Inspiration Mobile architect Craig Roberts sports a bowtie as he sits at the drafting table of his Spring Hill home. A hand-drawn rendering of the floral carousel rests at the end of his black pen. “I still draw everything by hand,” he says, a rare habit in this digital age. Roberts, a respected member of Mobile’s architectural community and a festival volunteer for the past 15 years, was asked by Smisson to serve as lead architect for the floral carousel. Gathering inspiration from numerous examples and as many photographs of carousels as he could get his hands on, Roberts has designed what he calls a “contemporary interpretation” of a carousel. Based on his structural design, the venue will tower to a height of 26 feet and will be 20 feet wide. Fabrics of blue, yellow and red will drape from a golden ring at the carousel’s peak, a colorful ceiling for the six “floral horses” sized at 6 feet long and 5 feet tall. Though the horses will

remain stationary, the gold-gilded mirrors at the venue’s center will rotate to create the sensation of a carousel’s movement. “The challenge of my job is the coordination of people and the sequencing of events along the way,” Roberts says. “But I’ve done this so many times, it’s not at all as scary as it used to be.” What makes the carousel truly unique is that the six horses, made of wire framing, will each be decorated by a different florist. Hillary Herrington of Herrington’s Florists; Ron Barrett of Ron Barrett, LLC; Dennis Harris of Zimlich the Florist; Carol Reeves of Elizabeth’s Garden; LeNae Denson of Cleveland the Florist; and Julia Greer Fobes and Betsy Greer of Fashion, Art and Flowers are the talented minds behind the horses. Their participation, along with many others, will make the carousel come to life, according to Roberts. “I get the title of lead architect,” Roberts says, “but so many people are working harder

than me, I assure you.” Like the festival as a whole, it’s the volunteer work of many that makes the carousel possible. Sherry Pierce, owner of Studio08 and volunteer chair of the venue, secured the florists making the horses. Committee members Pam Friedlander and Sherry Sindel “do incredible things as artists,” Roberts says. “They’ll be doing the mirrored, revolving centerpiece. I can just show them what I want, and they make it look pretty.” Nadine Andrews of Sterling Event Design will be in charge of constructing the drapery covering the carousel. “We’re gifted in Mobile because of Mardi Gras,” Roberts continues. “People here are just used to doing volunteer work and being creative. Mobile is a special place like that. And no matter what role you play as a BELOW, LEFT TO RIGHT Mobile architect Craig Roberts, lead architect for the floral carousel, at work in his home studio. Roberts’ architectural rendering portrays what he calls a “contemporary interpretation” of a carousel. PHOTOS BY TODD DOUGLAS

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volunteer, when the whole thing is finished that Wednesday evening for the Gala party, it really is astonishing what we Mobilians can put together.”

The Run for the Roses “I hope no one else is doing a unicorn,” Julia Greer Fobes says to her sister Betsy Greer as the two florists begin working on their floral horse (er, unicorn — thanks to the foam horn attached to its head). In their midtown studio, Fobes and Greer stand on either side of the impressively large form, a wire outline of a horse in mid-gallop. Using palm fronds spray-painted silver, Fobes effortlessly weaves her unicorn a mane and tail, a small addition that adds a surprising amount of life to the animal. Though her work is solely voluntary, Fobes, who’s participated in the Festival of Flowers for about 10 years, says it’s one of her favorite assignments of the year.

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“The festival is really the only thing that all florists get to participate in, and it’s one of the few chances for us to see each other’s work,” she says. Greer glues small white flowers to the saddle on the unicorn’s back. The women asked their mother to keep an eye out for an old saddle on her visits to antique shops, and when she found one, they painted it gold. “Eventually it’ll have flowers all over it,” Greer says. On a project such as this, it’s important to know your flowers. For the blooms glued to the frame, the pair will use varieties that are durable and long-lasting. For the flowers that will need a little TLC over the four-day festival, floral foam containing water will be strategically hidden within the unicorn frame, delivering some much-needed H2O. “We’ll be using mostly white flowers, so keeping them watered will be important because they brown so easily,” Fobes says.

The sisters will do as much prep work as possible beforehand, but the majority of their decorating will be on-site in the days leading up to the event, as a fully decorated unicorn would be nearly impossible to transport. “It’s a lot of work,” Fobes says, “but we love doing stuff like this because it’s different and so out of the box.” As the anniversary occasion (which is sponsored by Wells Fargo) looms, the scope and importance of the undertaking comes into focus once again. “This is more than a local event,” says Bill Barrick, executive director of Bellingrath Gardens and Home and a 19-year festival volunteer. “This is a great way to market our city. And it’s now the only outdoor flower show in the Southeast.” Under 300,000 square feet of white tents, a vibrant park will be brought to life, combined with seminars, a garden market, children’s exhibits, photography showcases and much more — and all for a worthy cause. “Every year, the proceeds from the festival go towards purchasing a piece of equipment for the hospital,” O’Neill says. “This year, the event will help provide external pacemakers for the cardiac care unit.” On second thought, maybe it’s not that Mobilians simply know how to throw a party. Rather, they know how to work together, selflessly, in pursuit of a common goal. “Our community enjoys the festival and believes in it,” O’Neill concludes. “You know, not many festivals last 25 years.” MB

The 2018 Festival of Flowers will be held from March 22 – 25 at the Providence Hospital Campus. Tickets: $12 in advance, $14 for adults at gate, $13 for seniors and military at gate, $11.50 group rate (14 or more), free for children ages 12 and under. Group rates and packages with Bellingrath Gardens and Home, Gulf Coast Exploreum, Mobile Museum of Art and hotels are available. OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM A fanciful illustration by florist Julia Greer Fobes of the “unicornto-be.” Fobes, left, and sister Betsy Greer, right, perform preliminary work on their floral contribution. PHOTO BY TODD DOUGLAS

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FOOD | MIXOLOGY

Flower Power Welcome the first days of spring with an elegant cocktail of complex flavors and a hefty punch of gin. March deserves a splash of something floral! photo by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

THE GARDEN DISTRICT SERVES 1

1 1/2 ounces gin with floral notes (such as Hendrickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s) 1 1/2 teaspoons rose water (available at most grocery stores and Whole Foods) 3 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 tablespoons chilled rosĂŠ 3 teaspoons simple syrup or light agave a splash of club soda edible flower for garnish (such as violas or pansies)

Shake all ingredients over ice in a cocktail shaker to combine. Strain into a Champagne coupe or martini glass and serve topped with an edible flower.

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FOOD | TASTINGS

El Camino Taco Shack text by MAGGIE LACEY • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

very true Fairhopian remembers Winslow’s Café. It was the place to eat in town back before there were many places to eat in town. But some might not know that the American bistro struggled in the early 1980s until a tiny woman from Mexico came in and saved it, according to owner Harry Johnson. Mama Rosie added a Tex-Mex flair to the menu, which turned the place around, and the rest was history. Even years later, her legacy was not forgotten and Johnson named another establishment, Rosie’s Cantina, in her honor. Johnson has owned successful joints with cult followings too numerous to count (any Pelican Point fans out there?) as he reinvents himself and his offerings to suit the times. These days, Mama Rosie’s flavorful legacy continues in the newest place for good eats and great times, El Camino Taco Shack. Harry and his wife, Alissa, have worked elbow-to-elbow in their restaurant kitchens and bars over the years, and this time around he is taking an advisory role when it comes to the day-to-day operations. Alissa is running the show, and she’s doing a great job.

The food is fresh and simple. No crazy tricks, nothing you won’t recognize. But Alissa inserts great flavor combinations into every dish. They make all their sauces from scratch each day, like the highly addictive fire-roasted salsa or the grilled pineapple salsa that kills it on the fish tacos. All the meats are slow-cooked in-house, and the poblano rice — cooked in a flavorful puree of charred peppers — is a standout. El Camino is filling the void on the Eastern Shore for Tex-Mex that is a cut above but still unfussy. Alissa attributes their success to a fabulous staff. “Many of them have been with us since our Winslow’s days. It’s really special.” The throngs of Fairhope shoppers and tourists haven’t found it yet. While it’s right in the heart of downtown, El Camino is hidden away from the bustle of Fairhope Avenue. Meanwhile, locals enjoy weeknight dinners with the kids and weekends full of big bands and a knock-your-socks-off margarita bar. There’s no doubt this southof-the-border hole in the wall, like the Johnsons’ past projects, will find a place in the hearts of Fairhope residents and visitors, too. MB

 El Camino Taco Shack • 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. T – Th, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. F – Sa, Happy Hour 4 p.m. – 6 p.m. daily 212 Fairhope Ave., Fairhope • 928-8108 • elcaminotacoshack.com 28 mobilebaymag.com | march 2018

FOOD | TASTINGS

SHRIMP AND MAHI MAHI TACOS WITH POBLANO RICE

[ ON THE MENU ]

KORBEL RITA

FISH & SHRIMP TACOS

CHICKEN TINGA BOWL

CHORIZO TACO

This refreshing take on the margarita has agave syrup, fresh lime juice, el Jimador tequila blanco and Champagne. The perfect sipper on a warm day!

Grilled fresh mahi or meaty Gulf shrimp are topped with citrus aioli, jack cheese, sweet and spicy pineapple salsa and shredded lettuce on choice of tortillas.

Shredded chicken cooked in a tomato and chili chipotle sauce crowns poblano rice, black beans, street corn, Cotija cheese, lettuce and fresh pico de gallo.

Mexican pork sausage is dressed with black beans, street corn, sour cream, Cotija cheese, cilantro and a squeeze of lime juice on a corn tortilla.

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FOOD | BAY TABLES

Gentleman Farmer An architect dabbles in everything from tomatoes and watermelons to heritage pigs and cows, building a farm as unique as he is. text by MAGGIE LACEY • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

Renaissance man is defined as someone who has acquired profound proficiency in more than one field, and there is no better local example than Mac Walcott: architect, entrepreneur, farmer and leader of the local food movement. While finishing his architecture degree at Tulane, he was already scheming to start a working farm. In 1983, he planted 25,000 tomato plants on five acres he owned beside Fish River, in Fairhope, while also running a small architecture firm in Mobile with new bride and fellow architect Gina. “It’s a good way to test your new marriage,” he jokes. But Gina has always been supportive of Mac’s big, if not a little harebrained, plans and schemes. And those plans — except the tomatoes — usually work out. “I got discouraged after a few crops of tomatoes and some watermelons. We moved into sheep and goats to keep the pastures under control. I guess things just evolved from there.” Fast-forward a number of years, and the Walcotts found themselves with three wonderful kids and a booming architecture firm known as Walcott Adams Verneuille that is widely credited with influencing (for the better) the look of Fairhope and Point Clear. Mac was still dabbling at the farm and, in 2009, was ready to get serious about “critters,” as he calls them. The whole family trekked to South Carolina for a load of Australian Lowline Angus cattle, a heritage breed that is smaller than standard Angus and produces high-quality meat on pasture. Raising cows led to pigs and turkeys at Thanksgiving. Mac poured himself into every aspect of the animals — their feed, husbandry and processing of meat — while plenty of antics ensued. Bulls jumped fences, cows abandoned calves, predators wiped out whole flocks of chickens, and Mac was called home from his architecture work more times than he can count to bottle-feed or round up loose animals. Turns out, architecture is a whole lot easier. But when it comes to the farm, Mac is hooked. “I just love it. The dirt, it’s my hobby.” Walcott is a part of a growing number of people who are giving farming a try once again. “If this farm were a thesis or experiment, I would show the numbers that small farming can work, that it can be financially viable,” he says. Overall, the rural population is shrinking for the first time on

record, in part due to a trend in urbanization and a decrease in farming, a statistic that Walcott hopes can change.

Farm to Tables When the housing crisis hit and there was a lull in new construction, the Walcotts turned their attention to a large building they had listed in downtown Fairhope. “Instead of letting it sit vacant, we decided to make it a community space,” says Gina. “The Windmill Market was created to bring together small farmers with the local consumer. It was also a wonderful chance to showcase our green building initiatives, show people technology they may have never seen firsthand.” Mac began selling his pastured pork and beef at the market and continues to expand his offerings. This year alone, he will process almost 2,000 pounds of meat at USDA facilities in Lucedale, Mississippi. The products are sustainable, traceable and downright delicious. “We’ve learned a lot along the way,” Mac admits, including what is important to his customers. After one woman was so passionate about knowing the source and quality of the grain fed to her Thanksgiving turkey, Mac took a hard look himself and began experimenting with growing his own grain. “I have a miniature combine, because none of the big guys will bring theirs over for just a few acres.” He mixes his own feed with whole grains and roasts soybeans in a repurposed cement mixer set over a burner. “Soybeans smell amazing when toasting,” he says. These animals, you might argue, have a better life than many backyard pets. “I enjoy watching things grow: pigs, flowers, plants. It’s the most amazing thing in the world to me. They grow just by themselves — the miracle of life!” Walcott partnered with Chef Patrick Fosgate on custom spice combinations to season his smoked link sausages, and invited MB by to taste the fruits of his labor. This Renaissance man experiments in ways that certainly please the palate.

OPPOSITE Mac Walcott, left, and Chef Patrick Fosgate chew the fat over how to get quality meats from small farms to restaurant kitchens.

 Little House Farms locally pastured meats are available at Coastal Alabama Farmers and Fishermens Market in Foley, Loxley Farm Market, Windmill Market in Fairhope and online at littlehousefarms.com.

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FOOD | BAY TABLES

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Chef Patrick Fosgate serves these three favorite sauces with sausage, cheese and charcuterie.

Mustard / Chili Dip MAKES 1 CUP 3/4 cup whole grain mustard 1/4 cup Creole mustard 1 tablespoon Huy Fong chili garlic sauce 1 tablespoon honey 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Mix all ingredients and let sit at room temperature.

Beer Cheese MAKES 2 CUPS 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 1/2 cups whole milk 1/2 cup Fairhope Brewing Co.’s “I Think Therefore I Amber” beer 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper (plus more for garnish) 2 cups grated extra sharp cheddar cheese 1 cup grated Gruyere cheese

1. Melt butter in a medium saucepan. Add flour and cook for 1 minute until it forms a pale roux. Whisk in milk 1/2 cup at a time, until thickened. Slowly simmer for 3 minutes. 2. Whisk in beer, Dijon and spices and return to heat. Gently fold in the cheese and keep on low heat until melted and bubbly.

Apple & Sweet Pepper Dip MAKES 1 CUP 1/2 cup apple butter 1/2 cup sweet red pepper jelly juice of 1/2 lemon 1/8 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Mix all ingredients and let sit at room temperature.

TOP Gina Walcott savors a glass of wine on the back porch of Big House Farms, a home and working farm that she and husband Mac designed together. BOTTOM Chef Fosgate offers a taste of farm-to-plate living to the Walcotts’ daughter, Virginia, right, and Rebekah Webb, who contributes to the design and marketing for Windmill Market and Walcott Adams Verneuille Architects.

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Butternut Squash & Sweet Potato Soup with Breakfast Sausage SERVES 8 - 10 1 butternut squash olive oil kosher salt and white pepper, to taste 2 sweet potatoes 2 tablespoons butter 1/2 onion, diced 1 teaspoon minced garlic 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock 1/8 teaspoon dried thyme leaves 1/8 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice 1/2 pound bulk breakfast sausage 1/2 lemon, juiced and seeded 1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 2. Cut squash in half and scoop out the guts and seeds of each half. Lightly rub each side with olive oil and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Lay the squash flesh side up on a baking sheet. 3. Place whole sweet potatoes on a separate cooking sheet and place both pans in the oven for about 40 minutes to an hour or until vegetables are soft. Remove from the oven and let cool. Remove the flesh from the squash and potatoes and set aside. 4. Melt butter in a 2-quart saucepan. Add onion and cook until translucent and soft. Add garlic and cook for another minute. 5. Remove the pot from the heat and add the flesh of the squash and potatoes. Add the stock, thyme and pumpkin spice. Return to heat and slowly simmer for 15 minutes. 6. While the soup is simmering, brown the sausage in a skillet and set aside. 7. Puree the soup with an immersion blender until smooth. Stir in the cooked sausage and lemon juice, and season to taste with kosher salt and white pepper. If desired, finish the soup with cream to add richness.

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Shrimp & Sausage Bake SERVES 8 - 10

This dish works well for a hearty weekend brunch. Pair with fruit and a homemade biscuit. For a comforting dinner, add a side salad. 1/4 cup olive oil, divided 1/2 pound sausage, removed from the casing and crumbled 1 cup chopped yellow onion 1 red pepper, chopped 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 1/2 cups fine dried breadcrumbs 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 1 tablespoon Creole seasoning 1 1/4 cup shrimp, chicken or vegetable stock 1 pound fresh medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 2. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring, until the meat is browned, about 4 minutes. 3. Add onion and red pepper. Cook, stirring, until translucent and soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, salt and black pepper. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. 4. In a medium-size mixing bowl, combine 2 tablespoons of olive oil, breadcrumbs, parsley, cheese and Creole seasoning. Mix well. Add the sausage mixture and mix well. Add stock to the breadcrumb-sausage mixture and mix well. 5. Grease the bottom of a 10-inch casserole dish with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Arrange the shrimp in one layer in the bottom of the pan. Cover shrimp evenly with the breadcrumb-sausage mixture, packing it firmly down onto the shrimp. 6. Bake on the center rack of the oven until the top is golden brown, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve hot.

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Demystifying the

crawfish BOIL text by BRECK PAPPAS photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

William Stitt of Fairhopeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Old 27 Grill pulls back the curtain on the springtime staple. march 2018 | mobilebaymag.com 39

ith the tilt of a basket, lunch rolls out in a cloud of steam. Corn on the cob, red potatoes and pounds of crawfish spill into a metal trough, ready to be picked clean by waiting and eager hands. Enjoying his role as the orchestrator of today’s crawfish boil, William Stitt gives a much welcomed — though unnecessary — demand: “Dig in.” Stitt, owner of Fairhope’s Old 27 Grill, knows a thing or two about boiling crawdads. While working at a restaurant in Oxford, Mississippi (where the Yazoo City native attended college), he spent plenty of days on “the Grove,” passing out entire Igloo coolers full of crawfish to hungry fraternity and sorority members. Upon relocating to Fairhope, Stitt and a business partner even invested in a “crawfish wagon,” which ran in Baldwin County for a handful of years under the control of their sons. “We wanted our boys to learn what it meant to run a business,” Stitt explains. But don’t think for a second that his mudbug boiling is confined to business hours. When it’s just family or a small group of friends, Stitt says crawfish is always his first

choice, if the time is right. March is usually the month when the crawfish stars align — “that perfect window between winter and spring,” he says. Pounce too early in the season, the shells are often too hard; wait too long, and the meat can become grainy during the dog days of summer. “Crawfish is a party food,” Stitt says, noting the conversations that naturally arise over the sheets of newspaper and piles of paper towels. “From someone saying, ‘Ew, I don’t want to eat that,’ to, ‘Look how much that guy just ate!’ It’s just hysterical to me.” For whatever reason, strong opinions swirl around crawfish: the proper way to purge them before cooking, whether or not to suck the head, whether to eat them hot or cold, spicy or mild — or whether to eat them at all. With Stitt, there’s no shortage of crawfish opinions. “Sucking the head is required,” he declares. Other mudbug no-no’s? “Overcooking is the worst thing I see,” says the experienced chef. “Or someone showing up looking for dipping sauces for the crawfish.” One way in which Stitt’s crawfish recipe breaks from the norm is his inclusion of pork lardon in the pot. But can you blame him? As the brain behind Bill-E’s Small Batch Bacon, Stitt has learned to complement many meals with his smoked creation, and his crawfish boils are no exception. These days, he continues to peddle the red pinchers at Old 27 Grill if a group calls and asks him to host a crawfish boil. “What I sell is a party at the restaurant,” Stitt says. “We’ll build a menu to fit your needs, and everything is set up, served and cleaned up.” In other words, it’s a crawfish party made easy. But if it’s the do-it-yourself, backyard boil you’re looking for, fear not. Stitt’s got the lowdown on the mudbug boil.

LEFT Old 27 Grill’s William Stitt has boiled his fair share of crustaceans over the years and even helped run a self-contained crawfish food truck. OPPOSITE The first batch of mudbugs spills into Stitt’s party trough, perfect for hungry party guests to crowd around and observe each other’s peeling techniques.

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Mudbug tip â&#x20AC;&#x153;Overcooking is the worst thing I see. You want to get your water rolling, get the crawfish in, and when it rolls again, get them out.â&#x20AC;?

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Stitt Tips On storing live crawfish before a boil: “Dump them out of the sack into an ice chest and cover them with water. Hang that empty sack over the edge and drop the lid of the ice chest down on it to allow a little air to get in. You can keep them alive like this for two to three days if needed. Pull out the tab and let the water drain out two or three times. That’s a good way to keep the crawfish alive and purge (clean) them at the same time.” “Reheating crawfish the next day never turns out great. Instead, pick the meat out, put it in a Ziploc bag and freeze it. Then you can use it for crawfish étouffée, crawfish dips — a million different things.” “Things are gonna get messy, so be sure to have plenty of paper towels on-hand. As for the spiciness, beer cures a lot of problems.” MB also suggests putting out moistened hand towels and slice lemons for a quick and fragrant clean up.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT William Stitt stirs the pot alongside Matt Glasscock, who takes a break from smoking the day’s batch of Bill-E’s Bacon. Each morning, a new round of pork is pulled from the smokers and cooled beneath a row of electric fans — and the smell is heavenly. From left to right: MB Senior Writer Breck Pappas, Editorial Intern John Robertson and Old 27 Grill owner William Stitt dig into some mudbug goodness.

BACON Bill-E’s Bacon can be found at locations such as Greer’s, Piggly Wiggly, Whiskey Ridge Cattle Company, Pensacola’s Apple Market, Burris Farm Market and, of course, Old 27 Grill.

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How to peel a crawfish like a pro

1 break off the head Squeeze head and tail lightly, twist and pull apart.

2 Suck the head Every true crawfish eater sucks the head. Enjoy the spices from the boil and the crustaceans flavorful fats.

3 get the meat Grip the end of the tail with your fingers and grab the meat with your teeth. Pull to remove.

4 Enjoy 'Nuff said. No sauce required.

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Stitt tip “You don’t want anyone at the party to need a knife — you want to serve only bite-sized things. If the red potatoes are too big, slice ‘em up.”

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Bill-E’s Low-Country-Style Crawfish Boil SERVES 20 – 25 Equipment needed: • big pot (60-quart is good) with a basket insert • high-pressure propane burner and propane • long table covered with newspaper, for serving 3 pounds small-to-medium red potatoes 15 lemons 3 pounds uncooked Bill-E’s pork belly, cut into 1-inch cubes 4 1/2 pounds crab boil 3 bottles hot sauce 40 - 50 pounds live crawfish, rinsed in fresh water and kept moist (typically one sack) 24 3-inch ears frozen corn on the cob

1. Fill pot about three-quarters full of water. Fill the basket insert with potatoes, lemons and Bill-E’s pork belly and cook on high heat. When pot starts boiling, add crab boil and hot sauce. Let boil for 10 minutes. 2. Add crawfish and bring pot back to a boil (about five minutes). 3. Once it’s boiling again, shut off the heat. Add frozen corn and stir. 4. Let it all soak together, uncovered, for about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. 5. To serve, cover a table with newspaper. Strain the contents of the pot using the basket insert and dump everything onto the covered table. Finally, dig in with all your friends.

Bill-E’s Crawfish Butter MAKES 3/4 POUND

Use your crawfish leftovers to whip up a dish of butter for future use. 1/2 gallon seafood stock (can cook down shells from shrimp or crabs and keep frozen) 1/4 pound crawfish tail meat 1/2 pound butter 1/4 cup Bill-E’s Bacon drippings salt, to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. In a large saucepan, reduce seafood stock until it becomes a syrup, then cool. 2. Chop crawfish tail meat, then place all ingredients in a food processor and puree. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Transfer butter mixture into a container and chill until ready to use. march 2018 | mobilebaymag.com 45

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Moonshine Manor A dream home in Montrose is naturally welcoming and environmentally efficient. text by HALLIE KING • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU and TED MILES

known moonshiner in dry Washington County, the Dees matriarch spurred a post-Prohibition family move to Fairhope in the 1930s. With a new residence and an “e” tacked on to the end of their surname, her trade could continue away from the eagle-eyed purview of dry county officials. Fast-forward to modern times when Jessica Deese and her husband, Dees’s great-grandson and Fairhope dentist Danny Deese, purchased a property beautifully nestled on Mobile Bay. The moonlight that shone on the water and Danny’s family history pointed to one inevitable name for the home they would build — Moonshine.

The details of their home are durably industrial and environmentally conscious. The architectural craftsmanship of Watershed’s Rebecca Bryant also produced a place that is nature-centric, both in orientation and implementation, in accordance with Watershed’s mission to conserve energy and foster natural connections with the world. “Biophilia, our innate attraction to nature, definitely guides my work,” says Bryant. “Sometimes that’s literal, like using light and views to bring nature indoors or including great porches and terraces to invite people outdoors. And sometimes it’s more subtle,

OPPOSITE Homeowner Jessica Deese perches playfully on her kitchen island countertop by Coastal Stone & Cabinetry. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU ABOVE The exterior of the home is sleek and simple, with open, unadorned doors and windows to let in maximum natural light. PHOTO BY TED MILES march 2018 | mobilebaymag.com 49

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for instance, showcasing great wood floors, wood walls and brick — honest materials that clearly show their natural origin.” The efficiency of the home is evident around the entire property. It received Fortified Gold certification for its resilience against hurricanes and high winds, is heavily insulated to prevent heat from seeping indoors during summer months and, because of a well-sealed building envelope, is approximately 50 percent more energysaving than a home built just to meet current building codes. Additionally, rather than diverting away from the property toward the Bay, rainwater infiltrates through the landscape so it filters naturally rather than bombarding the coastline with runoff. For owner Jessica, “One very clear reference point was old train stations. I knew I wanted a deep porch without railing, columns or anything to obstruct the view. The deep overhangs found on old train stations supported by oversized corbel-like supports were always so beautiful to me.” The high ceilings, deep overhangs and metal ornamentation were implemented from the front of the home all the way through. The design mimics the welcoming nature of old train stations; the simplicity feels inviting rather than obtruding. It’s an approachable abode with nothing standing in the way. “Hop onboard,” it almost whistles out, “and make yourself comfortable.”

Sinks First

OPPOSITE Architect Rebecca Bryant, left, and Jessica Deese, right, joyfully catch up months after finishing the Deeses’ custom home. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

ABOVE The green mudroom provides a colorful entryway for the home, as well as office space for Jessica. A row of brass hooks brightens the storage space for the kids’ backpacks. PHOTO BY TED MILES RIGHT A metallic flexible-head faucet adorns the sink. Its gold accents mirror other elements of the room. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

Another detail essential to the design of the home was the plethora of salvaged sinks Jessica and Danny collected over years of scouting. Some rooms were created specifically to integrate the sinks while others utilized them as accents for other pieces or patterns. “The first purchase was the vintage double drain board kitchen sink that is in my boys’ bathroom. We purchased it in Louisiana on our 10th wedding anniversary in April 2014,” says Jessica. “Our triple trough sink in the bunk bath and the sink hanging on the wall in our powder room were bought online from someone on Etsy. These three sinks sat on a pallet in our yard until they were finally installed!” “It was great fun to design kids’ baths around these huge industrial sinks and look for light fixtures that could hold their own with the sinks,” Bryant says. “We identified the light fixtures two years before we broke ground,” Jessica adds. “I would purchase them one at a time and store them above my husband’s office.” Some other elements of design were found so close to home, they were right under the Deeses’ feet.

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PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

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PHOTO BY TED MILES

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A textured cabinet, metallic faucet and decorative glass pieces adorn the cocktail bar. A reclaimed baptismal font serves as the sink in the powder room, surrounded by salvaged brick. A colorful Lucy Hunnicutt painting, which was Jessicaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 30th birthday gift from Danny, decorates the entryway under an industrial wall sconce.

“We lived in the mid-century ranch house that was originally on the property for five years before we started to build,” Jessica says. “It was constructed of old Mobile brick, and we discovered a treasure trove of these bricks all over the property. My husband began the tedious and toilsome process of uncovering them, one by one. Now these beautiful bricks adorn our home, adding remarkable beauty. But it is the reminder of his hard work, and the home we started in, that make them so special to me.”

Family Matters With four children ranging from ages 2 to 11, the Deeses required lots of fun and family-centric spaces. The bedrooms reflect each child’s personality along with the Deeses’ style and Rebecca’s conservation techniques. Pops of color and industrial vintage accents embellish kid-friendly atmospheres throughout the second floor. No room is more reflective of playful youth, though, than the familyfavorite bunkroom. “Jessica and Danny started talking about all these cousins who would visit, and we needed places for everyRIGHT, TOP TO BOTTOM Local cement tiles adorn the floor of the master bath, complete with a walk-in shower and gold appliances. The room is decorated with monochromatic accents, from a black and white patterned backsplash to stark white sinks and black mirrors. PHOTOS BY TED MILES

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one to sleep,” says Bryant. “I stopped by one day, and there was just a pack of kids in the bunkroom, reading, drawing, playing the piano, climbing up the ladders. It made me so happy to see that room just alive with children!” Other favorite features of the home include the kitchen, the mudroom and the direct view of the Bay from the open center of the house. All of these elements were strategically planned and unhurriedly executed to bring the house from a dreamy vision to a tangible reality. Working slowly gave the family time to find the perfect pieces, establish the perfect structure and transform the space into the perfect dwelling. “By going so slowly, we were able to mitigate a lot of the stress that can be involved in the building process. We took the long view the entire time and actually wanted to go slowly, in the planning and building, because it is our hope that this home will be our last,” says Jessica. “To have a space that reflects your taste and preferences completely is incredible. I don’t think I will ever stop pinching myself.” MB

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THIS PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM The triple trough bunkroom sink was one of the many sinks purchased way before the home’s construction. The chic bunkroom is decorated with blue shelving and accents, industrial pipes, a TV, a piano and books galore. OPPOSITE 2-year-old Henry watches as Greta, 8, climbs up the bunks to the loft space that hides above the play and rest area. PHOTOS BY TED MILES

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Pink walls and cabinetry create a soft and sweet atmosphere for the girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; bathroom, decorated with industrial globe lights and bronze accents. The bedroom, which serves as a guest suite when visitors stay, is embellished with soft and comfortable pieces, like sheepskin and linen. The bold floral wallpaper makes a modern statement, while an iron-frame bed, pink plywood floors and modern accessories finish the look. The salvaged castiron clawfooted tub was painted black to stand out against the white tile and bright blue shower curtain that surrounds it, bringing the whole room together with a vintage feel and feminine flair. PHOTOS BY TED MILES

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PERFECTING THE

PICKET FENCE

text by MAGGIE LACEY photos by SUMMER ENNIS

If your home was a painting, consider the picket fence its frame. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to try out this slice of the American Dream.

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TOP IT OFF Any fence can run with the boards in a line, but try a scalloped top for a really special look! Boards get taller as they get closer to the fence posts and then swoop down again in a wave design. Installation takes a little more time, but it makes for a truly unique fence.

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othing quite symbolizes the American Dream like a crisp, white picket fence. This architectural line in the sand has been a part of the way we build and decorate our homes since Colonial times. Historically, these structures delineated possession of land and were very visible symbols of wealth. Only the toniest early Americans could spare the wood, nails and paint for a fence that neither provided privacy nor did a first-rate job keeping out the neighbor’s cow. As time passed, picket fences became more attainable, almost synonymous with American home ownership. All a resident needed was a few boards, nails

and a good hammer to construct a welcoming border for the home. While there is little need to keep out the neighbors’ livestock these days, a well-designed fence keeps Fido safe in the yard and protects flower gardens from the neighborhood kids while accenting a well-kept patch of earth. Pickets are typically short in stature and high on classic style. Think of it as the picture frame around a work of art. “Picket fences are a classic way to add character, define a space or frame a view,” explains architect Jeremy Portillo of Watershed in Fairhope. “The picket style can be simple and subdued or play off your house’s unique

BLENDING IN The ornate Victorians often painted their fences a color other than white to match the home’s trim. Occassionally, they even chose a dark color so the fence would not distract from the architecture.

ABOVE John and Lisa Harrison painted the fence of their Fairhope home a dark color that matches the porch trim and blends into the landscape. The fence has an interchangable gate that reflects the season, including a flower, American flag and pumpkin! OPPOSITE This historic home on Dauphin Street, owned by Paula Thorpe, is accented by a beautiful custom fence with a scalloped top gate.

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A FENCE WITH HISTORY The pickets gracing Amanda and Herndon Ingeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home at the corner of Old Shell Road and Tuthill Lane (shown this page and opposite) are steeped in history. Many of the boards date back to the 1840s, showing square-headed nails that were undoubtedly made by hand and were possibly assembled by slave labor. Only the boards themselves know for sure. The fence has been disassembled and rebuilt on a treated wood frame, but using many of the original pickets.

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Did you know? A picket fence doesn’t have to be white! The Victorians often painted their pickets a dark shade so as not distract from the opulent detail of the architecture.

theme.” Each particular architectural style has a fence that suits its personality. Picket fences generally best complement homes made of wood, typically Georgian, Victorian, Greek Revival and Cape Cod styles, as opposed to stucco or concrete homes in the Mediterranean, Craftsman or modern mode. This perfectly aligns with Mobile’s building tradition of wooden structures and explains why we see very few stone or stucco fences in these parts. When building homes, Southern contractors have traditionally employed either pine for their availability or cypress boards for their durability, although most people agree that the cypress we find today just doesn’t last like it used to. Because picket fences were born to be

functional, they are still most pleasing to the eye if they at least appear to fully enclose a space. If you decide to only fence part of a front yard, you must do it carefully and intentionally. A lonely stretch of pickets will look like an after-thought. The height should also relate to the scale of the home — a diminutive cottage may look just right with a 2-foot-tall enclosure, while a grander home might require as much as 4 feet of woodwork to look to scale. Take the entire property into consideration while planning. When looking for inspiration, there is surely no better stretch of picket fences along the Gulf Coast than on the boardwalk in Point Clear, where home after historic home boasts fine examples ripe for inspira-

tion. There are traditional, French Gothic and square picket options galore to inspire your next home improvement project. Fences have a long tradition in Point Clear. A century ago, when tony Mobilians would decamp for Point Clear in the summer months, they would bring their milk cows and other livestock with them to sustain the family. A good fence and a cattle gate at the drive kept everyone where they were supposed to be. These cattle gates on the drives are still visible on many homes. Interestingly, after hurricanes Ivan and THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE The home of Amanda and Herndon Inge, located at the corner of Old Shell Road and Tuthill Lane, is a historic Spring Hill stunner.

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Katrina, many Point Clear waterfront homeowners rebuilt their pickets with a sturdy brick base that not only looks good but keeps storm debris out of yards. That’s form and function in one tidy package! No matter which direction you go, home-building professionals agree that there is something special about a well-done fence. After several centuries accenting the American Dream, it’s a classic look that shows no sign of going out of style any time soon. MB

TRY THIS! Fence posts and gates can be accented with finials, trims and decorative details to make even a do-it-yourself fence look swank. Simple copper post caps are a nice finishing touch.

Where to start? Consider your home’s architecture. Take into account the size and scale of the home. Do you want your fence to pop or disappear?

ABOVE A picket fence along the boardwalk in Point Clear shows the trend for thick brick bases with white pickets on top.

Do you need to contain pets or kids? How much do you want to spend?

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WHICH TYPE OF PICKET IS RIGHT FOR YOUR HOUSE? There are hundreds of styles and options for creating a fence as unique as your home. Here are a few of the most common.

TRADITIONAL PICKET Simple and clean lines make the traditional picket pair well with most any architecture. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a classic, historically accurate look for old homes, but it is a fresh choice with clean lines on a place more modern.

FRENCH GOTHIC PICKET The ornate tops of the French Gothic style match a Victorian or Edwardian home perfectly. These pickets are widely available at big box stores, but you can alternate with plain boards for added interest.

DOG-EARED PICKET A flat board has the edges tapered off for a clean, modern look. Great on Craftsman homes as well as contemporary. Vary the spacing between boards or the heights for a more custom look.

SQUARE PICKET Square pickets can alternate heights with some reaching a middle rail and others rising tall for a more ornate fence to match, say, a Victorian home. These pickets tend to be a bit more expensive and are harder to paint but worth the trouble.

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Kitchen Envy

Feast your eyes on these five fab kitchens that inspire every taste, and see for yourself what’s to love about each one. text by HALLIE KING • photos by PATRICK MICHAEL CHIN, JUSTIN CORDOVA, TED MILES AND STEPHEN SAVAGE

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WHAT MAKES THIS KITCHEN GREAT The open floor plan in this Fairhope home, designed by architect Lea Verneuille from Walcott Adams Verneuille Architects, maximizes space while leaving room for the design to shine. Outdoor beauty and interior appeal are both visible from every vantage point in the kitchen, so every spot is a perfect one. “The kitchen design is open to both the family living area and more formal dining area. A pass-through to the dining area allows for multi-side dual storage with glass storage cabinets flanking the pass-through,” says Verneuille. “This also allows a visual link from the kitchen to the view of Mobile Bay and beyond.” Some elements, like the all-white countertops and clean-cut cabinetry, scream old school. Others, though, create a counter-style that provides contrast and interest. The flush frame cabinets that extend to the ceiling of painted wood, the dark-hued window frames and the island lights carry the eye throughout the room. Other practical features were installed for user convenience, including two dishwashers, two sinks and a corner drawer unit to conserve space.

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FIVE THINGS TO COVET 1. The beachy driftwood reminiscent of a vacation cottage 2. Well lit spaces under the cabinets create highlighted work-space 3. Easy access to two separate sinks and dishwashers for easy cleanup 4. Paneled ceilings and subway tiles for texture 5. The reimagined clean-cut style PHOTO BY TED MILES

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WHAT MAKES THIS KITCHEN GREAT The chopped-up design of this Mobile home called for a massive renovation, creating more openness and flow. Robert McCown of McCown Designs and Panama City Beach interior designer Tricia Willis customized the space into a vast galley kitchen with double islands and functional flair. “The homeowners are social and like to entertain, so the kitchen is the hub of their house,” says McCown. “We incorporated two islands of the same bar height to have one for kitchen function and one to serve as a breakfast table.” The custom steel breakfast island even has a pull-out children’s table flush with the bottom cabinet to create a cozy space for every eater! The glass backsplash around the range allows for transparency from the inside out. Built-in storage and desk spaces make essentials readily available without obtruding.

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FIVE THINGS TO COVET 1. Dark cabinets to create contrast — and hide dirt! 2. Plenty of counter space and a long bank of windows surrounding the airy stove area 3. A refrigerator matching the cabinetry, creating a seamless look throughout the room 4. Custom steel bar designed by McCown and cafted locally

PHOTOS BY PATRICK MICHAEL CHIN

5. The warm modern style

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WHAT MAKES THIS KITCHEN GREAT These Fairhope residents’ minimalist sensibilities give them reason to want to contain the clutter when doing their favorite thing: cooking. Designer Coleman Mills of William Coleman Mills Design Studio did just that by incorporating colorful drawers and cabinets to mask vital storage spaces. “One of the homeowners is a vegan baker, so we created a custom pull-down top that opens into a working butcher block with a hidden pullout drawer for all of her vegan baking needs,” says Mills. “The other roasts his own coffee, so we designed a space complete with all of the necessary coffee roasting equipment. It’s completely hidden, but it makes the house smell great.” The family-favorite space in the home is doused in modern art and contemporary pieces. The flashy seating furniture was designed with family in mind, creating ample space for everyone to spend time together without crowding the cooking space when someone is in the kitchen.

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FIVE THINGS TO COVET 1. The eye-catching mid-century modern ball clock and other art 2. The built-up appliances, incorporated to allow the homeowners, who both underwent major back surgeries, to avoid the need to reach down 3. The other-worldly light fixtures that add some serene white flair to the otherwise vibrant space 4. Windows on three sides of the room bring in light at all times of day 5. The retro minimalist style PHOTO BY STEPHEN SAVAGE

WHAT MAKES THIS KITCHEN GREAT

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PHOTO BY TED MILES

WHAT MAKES THIS KITCHEN GREAT This Point Clear kitchen’s neutral white palette and antique wood floors are classic and traditional. The spot serves as a welcoming and comfortable space where the homeowner cooks for family and entertains friends. “The kitchen and bar combine classic architectural character and functional layouts that work and flow seamlessly together,” says the home’s architect and designer Lea Verneuille, “so appliances and cooking elements are skillfully integrated into the built cabinetry with great attention to detail.” The surprising pop of color from the butler’s pantry serves as a playful staging area nestled near the white kitchen.

PHOTO BY TED MILES

“The Chinese red color, influenced by the owner’s memories of a grandmother’s cherished bright red family heirloom, gives this space a welcoming party vibe.”

FIVE THINGS TO COVET

1. Antique baubles and fixtures for an old-world feel 2. Cushion and rug patterns that carry the eye throughout 3. The pops of red mimicking the bold butler’s pantry 4. Glass-paneled cabinets with an element of surprise 5. The vintage style

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PHOTO BY JUSTIN CORDOVA

WHAT MAKES THIS KITCHEN GREAT

FIVE THINGS TO COVET

With a new fresh look in mind, these Mobile homeowners worked with Robert McCown and interior designer Cindy Meador to merge traditional antiques with modern flair. The kitchen was designed with functionality in mind, but with its own personality to match.

1. Contrasting neutral colors and textures to create interest

“The door styles in the kitchen have some custom dimensional pyramid faces and others with diamond-shaped mouldings,” says Meador. “The homeowners entertain quite a bit, therefore the layout and design of the cabinetry and countertop space serves them well for appetizers and buffets.” The mix of warm and cool colors throughout the kitchen is present in the countertops, the backsplash and even the mix of metals. The brass and bronze hardware provides a subtle but eye-catching edge of sleek sophistication within the welcoming environment.

2. Ornate shapes and curves that offer a fresh sophistication 3. The natural light exaggerated by the soft color palette 4. The intermingling mix of old and new accents 5. The elegant style

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MARCH / APRIL 2018 ON STAGE & EXHIBITS PG. 80 • APRIL HIGHLIGHTS PG. 82

AZALEA BLOOM OUT AT BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

[MARCH HIGHLIGHTS]

through april 21

through april 30

march 3 - 31

Savage Ancient Seas

Spring Bird Migration

Azalea Bloom Out

Examine the exotic creatures that roamed the swamps and seas during the age of the dinosaurs. More than 50 prehistoric marine fossils, cast and real specimens from the Cretaceous Period, sit in extraordinary 3-D displays.

Watch as hundreds of species of birds return north after heading south for the winter at one of the nation’s best bird sanctuaries.

More than 250,000 vibrant azaleas will be on display throughout the 65 acres of Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

GULFQUEST NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM OF THE GULF OF MEXICO • GULFQUEST.ORG

march 24 Downtown Cajun Cook-Off 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Taste over 20 dishes and enjoy live music, drinks and games to benefit the Child Advocacy Center. CATHEDRAL SQUARE • CACMOBILE.ORG

DAUPHIN ISLAND • DAUPHINISLAND.ORG

march 3 Mobile Chocolate Festival

BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME 973-2217 • BELLINGRATH.ORG

march 9 - 10 Tee Off Fore a Cure

10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Chocolate lovers, rejoice! Sample various confections and chocolate products from one of many vendors at this year’s festival.

Hit the links for a good cause. This year marks Children’s of Alabama’s 13th annual Tee Off Fore a Cure. Don’t forget about the pre-party with food, drinks, live music, a silent auction and more.

THE GROUNDS • 342-2809 MOBILECHOCOLATEFESTIVAL.COM

THE LAKEWOOD CLUB’S ROBERT TRENT JONES GOLF TRAIL • GIVE.CHILDRENSAL.ORG/TEEOFF

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march 9 - 11 Mobile Historic Homes Tour Explore various homes and buildings in and around downtown Mobile, and attend other festivities devoted to local history and architecture. HISTORIC MOBILE PRESERVATION SOCIETY 432-6161 • HISTORICMOBILETOUR.COM

march 10 - 11 Orange Beach Festival of Art 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Enjoy two days of fine arts, including visual, musical, performance and culinary. COASTAL ARTS CENTER OF ORANGE BEACH ORANGEBEACHAL.GOV/FACILITIES/ FESTIVAL-ARTS/ABOUT

march 16 - 18 Fairhope Arts and Crafts Festival 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Listen to live entertainment and sample unique cuisine while taking in the art of more than 230 exhibitors from throughout the nation. DOWNTOWN FAIRHOPE • FAIRHOPEARTSANDCRAFTSFESTIVAL.COM

march 17 St. Patrick’s Day Block Party This year’s party is sure to be a big one. Come for the burger, stay for the live music. CALLAGHAN’S IRISH SOCIAL CLUB CALLAGHANSIRISHSOCIALCLUB.COM

march 22 - 25 Festival of Flowers Celebrate the festival’s silver anniversary by exploring life-size garden vignettes, floral and gardening seminars, beautiful floral displays and more. PROVIDENCE HOSPITAL GROUNDS FESTIVALOFFLOWERS.COM

march 24 Bellingrath Easter Egg Hunt 9 a.m. - noon. Thousands of eggs will be scattered all over the Great Lawn. There will be plenty of candy for kids of all ages and a chance to take pictures with the Easter Bunny. Children may participate in one of three hunts, depending on their age. BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME 973-2217 • BELLINGRATH.ORG

march 31 Elberta Sausage Festival Nosh on German sausage, sauerkraut, German-style filled cabbage, potato salad, goulash and more. Don’t miss the carnival rides, polka and German music. ELBERTA TOWN PARK ELBERTAFIRE.COM/SAUSAGE-FESTIVAL march 2018 | mobilebaymag.com 79

[ON STAGE & EXHIBITS]

through april 14 Titanic: Honour and Glory 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. M - Sa, 1 p.m. - 5 p.m. Su. Witness the glory of Titanic, her sister ships Olympic and Britannic, and White Star Line at this exhibition. Artifacts from the ships as well as movie props from the 1997 film will be on display. MUSEUM OF MOBILE HISTORYMUSEUMOFMOBILE.COM

through june 1 Back to Havana Explore the relationship between Mobile and its sister city Havana, Cuba, in this exhibit featuring multimedia projects from 15 of Cuba’s contemporary artists. ALABAMA CONTEMPORARY ART CENTER ALABAMACONTEMPORARY.ORG

through july 1 do it The Mobile Museum of Art is giving local artists, individuals and community groups the opportunity to participate in the “do it” competition that originated in Paris in 1993. As a part of the competition, participants interpret and complete selected works out of 250+ possible instructions. MOBILE MUSEUM OF ART MOBILEMUSEUMOFART.COM

through july 8 Alabama / Texas Art Exchange This Mobile Museum of Art exhibit features the work of artists from their respective states, presented concurrently at each venue. The event was originally scheduled for October 2017, but was postponed due to the destruction caused by Hurricane Harvey in Houston. MOBILE MUSEUM OF ART MOBILEMUSEUMOFART.COM

march 2 - 11 “A Comedy of Tenors” 7:30 p.m. F. 2 p.m. Su. Watch hilarity ensue as four tenors, two wives and three girlfriends collide in a hotel suite. CHICKASAW CIVIC THEATRE • CCTSHOWS.COM

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march 1 - 4 “The Mousetrap” 7:30 p.m. F / Sa. 2:30 p.m. Su. In this Agatha Christie classic, a snowstorm traps a group of strangers in a boarding house with an unknown killer. Tickets: $12 - $20. THEATRE 98 • THEATRE98.ORG

march 3 - 4 “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” 7:30 p.m. Sa. 2:30 p.m. Su. Shakespeare’s beloved play takes the stage. MOBILE CIVIC CENTER THEATER MOBILEBALLET.ORG

march 16 - 18 “La Boheme” 8 p.m. F. 2:30 p.m. Su. The Mobile Opera performs the Puccini classic. THE TEMPLE DOWNTOWN • MOBILEOPERA.ORG

march 16 - april 1 “Cabaret” 7:30 p.m. F / Sa. 2 p.m. Su. Travel back in time to 1929 - 1930 Berlin and witness the romance between Sally and Cliff. Tickets: $10, $15, $20. JOE JEFFERSON PLAYERS JOEJEFFERSONPLAYERS.COM

march 22 Jamaal May Poetry Reading 5 p.m. As part of the Stokes Center for Creative Writing’s speaker series, May, an award-winning poet, will read selections of his work. USA STUDENT CENTER TERRACE • SOUTHALABAMA.EDU/COLLEGES/ARTSANDSCI/ENGLISH/ STOKES.HTML

march 22 Jason Mraz 7 p.m. Doors open. 8 p.m. Show starts. The soulful, pop-folk artist brings his signature sound to the Port City. Tickets: $76, $56, $46. MOBILE SAENGER • MOBILESAENGER.COM

march 24 - 25 “Resurrection” 7:30 p.m. F, 2:30 p.m. Su. The Mobile Symphony Orchestra celebrates this work of Gustav Mahler. This piece, known for its grandeur and scale, will require the participation of three of our area’s finest choirs. MOBILE SAENGER • MOBILESYMPHONY.ORG

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[APRIL HIGHLIGHTS]

april 1 Community Easter Sunrise Service 6:30 a.m. - 7:30 a.m. Celebrate the holiday with the scenic views of Dauphin Island. HISTORIC FORT GAINES • DAUPHINISLAND.ORG

april 1 Easter Sunrise Service 6:30 a.m. - 8 a.m. Take in the beauty of Bellingrath Gardens with family and friends on this special day. Free admission from 6 a.m. - 8 a.m. BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME 973-2217 • BELLINGRATH.ORG

april 6 - 7 Mobile Challenge of Champions Track Meet 3 p.m. - 10 p.m. F, noon - 6:30 p.m. Sa. See some of the top high school track and field athletes from around the nation. FRIDAY: UMS-WRIGHT PREPARATORY SCHOOL SATURDAY: ST. PAUL’S EPISCOPAL SCHOOL MOBILECHALLENGEOFCHAMPIONS.NET/

april 7 Discovery Day at the Estuarium 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Learn about the coastal ecosystem and current Dauphin Island Sea Lab research projects. DAUPHIN ISLAND SEA LAB • DISL.ORG

april 7 Sara Evans 6:30 p.m. Doors open. 7:30 p.m. Show starts. Sara Evans takes the stage alongside RaeLynn and Kalie Shorr as a part of CMT’s Next Women of Country tour. Tickets: $69.50, $49.50, $39.50, $32.50 (plus fees). MOBILE SAENGER • MOBILESAENGER.COM

april 14 The Black Jacket Symphony: Guns N’ Roses Appetite for Destruction 7 p.m. Doors open. 8 p.m. Show starts. The Black Jacket Symphony takes it back to the ‘80s with this Guns N’ Roses’ hit album. Tickets: $32, $22 (additional fees apply). MOBILE SAENGER • MOBILESAENGER.COM

april 20 - 22, april 27 - 29, may 4 - 6 “Butterflies Are Free” 7:30 p.m. F / Sa. 2 p.m. Su. Theatre 98 presents this 1969 comedy about a blind musician who develops a relationship with a free-spirited hippie. Tickets: $18. THEATRE 98 • THEATRE98.ORG

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DISCOVERY DAY AT THE ESTUARIUM

april 21 Bald Eagle Bash 4 p.m. - 7 p.m. Taste fresh Gulf shrimp prepared by top local restaurants and enjoy live music at the annual fundraiser for the Weeks Bay Foundation. Tickets: $45, in advance; $50, at the gate. TONSMEIRE WEEKS BAY RESOURCE CENTER AT THE FISH RIVER BRIDGE • BALDEAGLEBASH.COM

april 21 Mobile Bay Earth Day 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. Check out activities and exhibits promoting environmental citizenship and awareness around the world. FAIRHOPE PIER PARK EARTHDAYMOBILEBAY.ORG

april 21 Rose Bloom Out at Bellingrath The Rose Garden at Bellingrath Gardens will showcase its first blooms of the season and will continue until the fall. BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME 973-2217 • BELLINGRATH.ORG

april 26 - 29 Interstate Mullet Toss and Gulf Coast’s Greatest Beach Party Toss one over the line at one of the biggest parties on the Gulf Coast. FLORA-BAMA LOUNGE AND PACKAGE STORE FLORABAMA.COM

april 13 - 15, 20 - 22 “The Pot” 7:30 p.m. F / Sa. 2 p.m. Su. The Mobile Theatre Guild presents Glenn Hutchinson’s play that focuses on immigration. Tickets: $15 - $20. MOBILE THEATRE GUILD MOBILETHEATREGUILD.ORG

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HISTORY | ARCHITECTURE

Spolia Explore the story, magic and chic of architectural salvage in Mobile. text by CARTLEDGE BLACKWELL

rom the Latin word for “spoils,” spolia, the cultural conquest and reuse of artistic elements, has a long history. To draw upon an old and oft-repeated expression — and then massage it a bit — Rome was not built in a day but rebuilt over generations. The columns, capitols, friezes and sculptures of Ancient Rome figure prominently in the Medieval, Renaissance, Baroque and even Fascist epochs that followed. Like the “Eternal City,” Mobile has a lengthy history in what we now call “architectural salvage.” Well in advance of the creation of house museums and historic districts, Mobilians held fine craftsmanship, good lines and venerable provenances in high regard. Let us explore the history, mystique and trajectory of Mobile’s fixation on and perfection of reinventing the architectural past in the present. From singular interior and exterior elements to whole buildings, recreations great and small deserve celebration.

Jailhouse Rock The English-Moore House (above) nestles serenely within Ashland Place’s enviable tree canopy. Arching branches of venerable oak trees, with their lush resurrection ferns, form a halo over the picturesque Arts and Crafts dwelling. The character-defining textured stone walls seem as if they have been there for time immemorial. They were the original facing of the 1929 house, but their existence predates the home. Originally finely cut blocks, the deliciously irregular pieces of rock previously served as the facade of one of Mobile’s greatest lost landmarks — the 1830s county jail. During the Antebellum era, jails were among the most architecturally notable public build-

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ings in American towns and cities. Mobile’s jail was a monumental Greek Revival building. It stood on Congress Street behind the Old City Hospital, which still stands at Saint Anthony and Broad streets. When the jail was demolished in the 1920s for an expansion of the Old City Hospital, pieces of the granite, while saved for reemployment, were broken and battered during the demolition. The rocky look appealed to a thenpopular craftsman aesthetic, leading to the granite’s reincarnation in a number of grand houses constructed during the boom years of the late 1920s. The English-Moore House is one of at least two known houses to feature materials from the jail.

Parts Unknown Ranch houses, or “ranchers,” were the residential rage of the post-World War II housing and baby booms. They satisfied the American

dream of a patch of earth, a generation’s preference for suburban existence and developers’ desire for ease of construction. With characteristic flair, Mobilians enlivened the trend by employing salvaged brick and ironwork in the ranch houses of the 1950s and ‘60s. Particularly notable examples line the curvilinear streets of Delwood, Chateaugay, Knollwood, Spring Hill and Sky Ranch. Some of the the salvaged bricks were covered with burn marks on account of their original task of lining chimneys. Graceful, curvaceous ironwork, its origin often unknown, was at times reconfigured into planters and air conditioner window unit cages. ABOVE Consciously rustic, the rough-cut granite rocks were hewn from the finely chiseled stones that failed the old jailhouse, one of Mobile’s most impressive 19th-century public buildings. They now extend picturesque appeal to the English-Moore House. PHOTO BY ANDREA MOORE

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Existing buildings also benefitted from the employment of materials from older buildings. Not too far from the English-Moore House stands the Dunlap-Quina House in Fearnway (left). This eclectic dwelling dates from 1905, but was extensively remodeled in 1938. Architect Kenneth Rabb Giddens transformed the house from an Arts and Crafts bungalow into a classically inspired raised cottage. Giddens not only employed newly constructed Ionic columns and Egyptian doors on a completely new facade, but he also utilized mantels from older buildings within the house. An 1850s mantel from a Church Street mansion that belonged to the Eichold family dominates the palatial living room, which opens onto the classical portico. The mantel, with its rich carvings, easily ranks among the finest to be fitted into a Mobile dwelling during the Antebellum epoch. Arched mantels, as well as bronze gasoliers, made their way into other homes constructed in the 1900s and after. The Dunlap-Quina Houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reinstallations took it to a new, sophisticated level.

Whole Kit and Caboodle Increasingly, relocating the parts of a larger whole was not the only course of action for architectural salvage. As the preservation movement developed, entire buildings threatened with demolition were disassembled and relocated. The Marx House, for instance, was deconstructed on Church Street and reconstructed on the University of South Alabama campus. Built for the grandfather of playwright and novelist Lillian Hellman, the Marx House represented one of Mobileâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most mature side-hall-with-wing dwellings, the favored dwelling type of the civic-commercial elite from the 1850s through the early 1870s. There once existed over 600 of these Mobilespecific houses. Featuring a side hall with two rooms to one side and dining and service wings to the rear, Mobile side-hall-with-wing houses married grandeur and practicality; high ceilings, central halls and windows on more than one side were all meant to help Mobilians beat the heat. OPPOSITE TOP The Dunlap-Quina House is one of the oldest houses in Fearnway. As seen in the old photograph, from the collection of David Quina, the house was originally designed as an Arts & Crafts bungalow. Modern photo by John Kilpatrick. OPPOSITE BOTTOM Artist and society figure Marian Acker Macpherson described Church Street as the most aristocratic of Mobile streets. The Eichold House (second from left) ranked among the most impressive. Mantels from this dwelling were relocated to the Dunlap-Quina House.

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ABOVE Situated in the heart of Spring Hill, the Rutherford House is Colonial Revival in its purest form.

Sadly, there are currently less than 40 of these Mobile-specific houses remaining. Vast numbers were lost to wrecking balls in the 20th century. The Marx House was condemned for construction of the Wallace Tunnel and Interstate 10, but the City of Mobile, the Mobile Historic Development Commission and the University of South Alabama partnered to save the house. It and two other Mobile buildings, the Toulmin House and Seamanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chapel, were relocated to the thenyoung university campus in 1968. In some extremely notable instances, buildings or portions of buildings have been relocated from even farther afield. The Rutherford House in Spring Hill (above) is copied from a Colonial-era dwelling that stood in North Carolina. Pristine without and a time capsule within, the residence is remarkable. The late Dr. Charles Rutherford Jr. and his wife Harriet, or â&#x20AC;&#x153;Scoot,â&#x20AC;? secured the hand-carved woodwork gracing the interior from the lost dwelling prior to its demolition, thereby saving the superb artisanship for posterity. The interiors are some of the most impressive examples of 18th-century craftsmanship in the Deep South.

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City of Influences In more recent decades, Atchison Home, Charles Phillips Antiques and Architecturals, Crown & Colony Antiques, and RF Architectural and Garden Antiques procured, shipped and marketed architectural fittings from continental Europe and Asia. With an unrivaled trans-European heritage, an affinity for all that is European is inevitable. Our unparalleled colonial heritage also brings with it an affection for sister cultures of the colonial sort. Be the expression Louis XVI, Empire or Vietnamese-Colonial, the flair and flavor builds upon generations of appreciation. The collective history of Mobilians as a people is truly inspiring. The history of spolia in Mobile affords a telling insight into who we are and where our city is going. From parts to whole, from demolition to preservation and now community revitalization, there is so much we can learn from and celebrate in the never-ending tale of architectural salvage. MB ď&#x201A;&#x2021;ď&#x201A;&#x2021;ď&#x201A;&#x2021; Cart Blackwell is an architectural historian and a curator at the Mobile Carnival Museum.

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HISTORY | ARCHIVES

Tub Night Before indoor plumbing was popularized in Mobile, Saturday night bathing was a grueling tradition. text by FR ANCES V. BEVERLY • illustration by COLLEEN COMER Frances Beverly Papers, The Doy Leale McCall Rare Book and Manuscript Library, University of South Alabama

Born in 1865, Frances V. Beverly toiled away at her home on Government Street throughout the 1930s and ‘40s, writing what she hoped would become the almanac of Mobile. Unfortunately, it was not to be. Beverly died in Mobile in 1954, leaving behind piles of manuscripts hidden from the very audience whose lore and customs she so tirelessly documented for posterity — that is, until now. In this series, MB presents the Frances Beverly Papers.

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aturday night is tub night.” How many times were these words used as excuses and reasons for not accepting unwelcome invitations? In the dear dead days beyond recall, there are some things which we are only too glad to have relegated to the past, and Saturday night bathing is one of them. Everywhere, north, south, east and west, this time was allocated to bodily cleanliness. It was a custom which had come down from grandparents, just like brushing your teeth or eating with a fork. On Saturday night, after the supper was over, the fire was replenished in the stove, all available pots and kettles were filled with water, and the large cedar top with its brass

bands was brought in and placed near the stove. Washrags, soap and towels were in readiness, and the family ablutions began. Usually, the father was the first to take the bath and he always left the kitchen floor like a miniature ocean, with small islands scattered here and there made by discarded garments. He always used all of the water, and always forgot to fill the utensils again. After a general cleaning up, which fell to the lot of the wife and mother, the family took turns. It was not a peaceful function. In fact, it was, for the most part, a very disturbing one, for the small members of the family were taken in pairs and scrubbed with the same washrag. This proceeding was not ideal, but it seemed better than taking them singly. Taken one at a time, there was always a vigorous objection to using the same water, but put in the tub together, they seemed to lose sight of the fact that the same water was used in the wrangle which always ensued over who should hold the soap. Tub night took so many hours of active service that nobody ever made any kind of engagement on Saturday night because of the uncertainty of when their time would come to use the tub. Making dates for this night was out of the question, and simply was not done in polite society in Mobile. It was not until after the advent of the bathroom and sanitary sewerage that people began to feel free to make social engagements, when tub night vanished from social records and once-a-week bathing was discarded. It took a long time for people to get accustomed to the change,

and many very amusing things in this connection occurred. In the home of a popular society girl, the young woman called to her next-door neighbor to come over at once and go to the matinee, as she had just received two tickets. The neighbor was delighted, and said she would dress just as soon as she had taken her bath. “Take your bath?” screamed Harriet, the first lady of the first part. “Why, you just took a bath yesterday. You must be terribly dirty, if you have to take another today. I will just get somebody to go with me who does not need a bath every day,” and she slammed down the window. Mothers were the chief sufferers during the Saturday night tub functions. Little boys’ dirty heads, which included very dirty ears and backs of necks, required particular attention and, frequently, the process was attended by discordant howls, accompanied by resounding spanks on bare bottoms, which God so thoughtfully prepared for just such contingencies. By the time the mother had run the gamut of her offspring, she was in such a state of exhaustion that she, undoubtedly, sent up a prayer to abolish Saturday nights and to make it legal and sanitary to require semi-annual baths. When the last squirming brat was scrubbed and dried, she would roll into her bed hoping that she would die in her sleep so that she would not have to be responsible for her own personal ablutions. Someone once said, “Blessed is the man who invented sleep,” but he is not a patch on the man who first conceived of bathtubs. MB

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HISTORY | ASK MCGEHEE

What’s the history of the Cheese Cottage building?

text by TOM MCGEHEE

LEFT The building that has resided at 650 Saint Louis St. for over 80 years held many identities in its heyday. After multiple runs as a gas station, as shown in this photo taken sometime between 1935 and 1969, it now serves as a cozy cheese shop teaching Mobilians the art of cheese boards and charcuterie. JULIUS E. MARX COLLECTION, THE DOY LEALE MCCALL RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ALABAMA

The building at 650 Saint Louis St. first appeared in the 1937 Mobile city directory as “Mrs. Jean D. Morrill, filling station.” It shared the block between North Dearborn Street and Washington Avenue with a Delchamps, which was the largest grocery store in the state when completed in 1928. This end of the street had previously held modest cottages until they rapidly made way for commercial structures. Mrs. Morrill’s new gasoline station was of a cottage plan first promoted in 1927 by the Pure Oil Company. A self-taught architect who worked for Pure Oil came up with a design very different from its competitors. The house form, with a bay window and flower boxes, was intended to blend into residential neighborhoods. The last known example was completed in 1946 and, by the next decade, the company had firmly embraced modernism for their new stations. Number 650 changed names quite a few times over the years. In 1938, it was listed as the “St. Louis Street Service Station” and advertised that it sold Tiolene Motor Oil — a Pure Oil product. Then, in 1946, it began a long run as the

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“Rayford Brothers Gas & Oil Service Station.” Saint Louis Street in the post-World War II years was booming as “Auto Alley,” selling countless new and used vehicles to returning vets as well as to Mobilians who had not seen a new car since before the conflict. It was not until 1969 that the Pure Oil name was directly associated with the address. That was the year it was first listed as the “Trail Cadillac Pure Oil Service Station.” The reason for this is something of a mystery, since the Pure Oil name vanished with its sale to Union Oil in 1965. The Union 76 name quickly replaced the familiar blue and white Pure Oil logo. In the 1970s, car dealerships moved west to an extended Dauphin Street and Government Boulevard, leaving a comparably deserted Saint Louis Street. The former gas station at number 650 survived as “Moore’s Garage,” with the last listing appearing in 1980. The renovation of this survivor of an earlier age of automobiles is nothing short of a miracle. It is a wonderful addition to a revitalized Saint Louis Street. MB

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END PIECE | IN LIVING COLOR

Droppin’ a Line, circa 1935 S. Blake McNeely Collection, The Doy Leale McCall Rare Book and Manuscript Library, University of South Alabama • Colorization by Dynamichrome Limited

Mobile photographer S. Blake McNeely captured this image of a barefooted youngster enjoying a lazy day at the pond. Although the boy’s identity and the location of this pond are unknown, it can be estimated that, if living today, this little boy would be around 90 years old. Recognize this child or the pond he’s fishing? Email bpappas@pmtpublishing.com.

94 mobilebaymag.com | march 2018

april 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 95

96 mobilebaymag.com | april 2017