Mobile Bay Magazine - November 2017

Mobile Bay THE LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE FOR MOBILE AND BALDWIN COUNTIES

November 2017

FOOD! GLORIOUS FOOD! 19 RESTAURANTS, 13 CHEFS, 121 INGREDIENTS TO COOK LIKE A PRO!

GUIDE TO BUYING THE BEST BEEF

ALABAMA OYSTERS AND HOW TO DRESS THEM pg. 46

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FEATURES NOVEMBER 2017

VOLUME XXXIII / ISSUE 11

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The Doctor Is In Boutique oyster farms are taking off across the Alabama coast, thanks to an expert based on Dauphin Island.

48

Meat Lover’s Guide Do you know chuck roast from rump roast? Rib-eye from sirloin? Mobile-area meat vendors share what you need to know.

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Take it Outside Embrace fall weather at the best spots to dine al fresco.

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2017 Gift Guide DR. BILL WALTON SHARES HIS OYSTER KNOWLEDGE. PHOTO BY FERNANDO DECILLIS

MB’s annual picks for fabulous gifts for family, friends and all in between.

ON OUR COVER

Alabama farm-raised oysters are shucked and topped with some unexpected garnishes.

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

 13 percent of America’s “last-minute shoppers” in 2016 planned to buy gifts at the grocery store. Get your shopping done right (and early!) this year with MB’s annual Gift Guide, page 63.

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DEPARTMENTS NOVEMBER 2017

VOLUME XXXIII / ISSUE 11

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LEFT Craig Barbarin Jr., owner of and cook for Port City Preps, takes pride in preparing healthy food for the busy Mobilian. PHOTO BY ELISE POCHÉ RIGHT Seven chefs from favorite area restaurants join together to create a menu for a beautiful, bountiful Thanksgiving feast. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

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Editor’s Note On the Web + Reaction Odds & Ends Elemental

Invaders of the Gulf Learn about the exotic fish threatening the Gulf.

19 Gumbo A Backyard Poultry Primer

These surprisingly low maintenance pets will love you while they earn their keep.

24 The Dish 26 Spotlight Port City Preps Healthful, home-cooked eating has never been this easy.

30 Tastings Eugene’s Monkey Bar Eugene Walter dreamed of having an open-air bar overlooking Bienville Square. Take a look inside the dream come true.

32 Bay Tables The Chefs’ Thanksgiving

Creative, beloved chefs from the Bay area’s favorite restaurants converge to share a few fabulous holiday recipes.

75 Archives The Story of Old Mobile The city shown through the eyes of a perceptive documentarian at the turn of the 20th century

80 History The Pinecone Battle of 1815 Bored soldiers entertained themselves in the closing days of war.

92 Ask McGehee Is it true that a Mobilian helped complete the Panama Canal?

A doctor born in Mobile helped eradicate yellow fever outbreaks.

94 In Living Color A Slice of History A toddler enjoys some Dixie Bread.

OUT & ABOUT

86 Highlights 88 On Stage & Exhibits 90 December Highlights

 What were the happenings around Mobile at the turn of the 20th century? See the daily life of old Mobile through the eyes of her most diligent documentarian, Frances Beverly, on page 75.

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Mobile Bay VOLUME XXXIII

No11

NOVEMBER 2017

PUBLISHER T. J. Potts Stephen Potts Judy Culbreth

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Maggie Lacey MANAGING EDITOR/WEB Abby Parrott

SENIOR WRITER Breck Pappas

COPY EDITOR Chelsea Adams PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Marie Katz

ART DIRECTOR Laurie Kilpatrick

ASSISTANT PUBLISHER

EDITORIAL CONSULTANT

ADVERTISING

SALES MANAGER

Joseph A. Hyland

Adelaide Smith McAleer

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Anna Pavao

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

ADMINISTRATION CIRCULATION Anita Miller ACCOUNTING Jody Chandler

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Frances Beverly, Mallory Boykin, Emmett Burnett, Jill Clair Gentry, Lawren Largue, Tom McGehee, John S. Sledge CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Colleen Comer, Matthew Coughlin, Fernando Decillis, Summer Ennis, Elizabeth Gelineau, Elise Poché, Nicole Quinn, Aimee Reynolds, Shane Rice ADVERTISING AND EDITORIAL OFFICES

3729 Cottage Hill Road, Suite H Mobile, AL 36609-6500 251-473-6269 Subscription rate is $21.95 per year.

Subscription inquiries and all remittances should be sent to: Mobile Bay P.O. Box 923773 Norcross, GA 30010-3773 1-855-357-3137 MOVING? Please note: U.S. Postal Service will not forward magazines mailed through their bulk mail unit.

Please send old label along with your new address four to six weeks prior to moving.

Mobile Bay is published 12 times per year for the Gulf Coast area. All contents © 2017 by PMT Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of the contents without written permission is prohibited. Comments written in this magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the ownership or the management of Mobile Bay. This magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photography or artwork. All submissions will be edited for length, clarity and style.

PUBLISHED BY PMT PUBLISHING INC .

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EDITOR’S NOTE Every dish tells a story.

I

’ve always been seriously into food. I brought brie sandwiches to school as a kid. I cooked curry in my college apartment (much to the dismay of my roommates). And I’ve been known to obsess over restaurant choices, trying to make every meal count. It’s no wonder that food first brought me to the magazine — MB named me a “Local Foodie” in 2012 and brought me on board last fall as the resident food editor. My epitaph should read, “She ate.”

But this month I had my dream food experience as a judge at The Wharf’s Uncorked Food and Wine Festival. Three days of savoring amazing dishes, drinking superb wines and hobknobbing with talented chefs and other food fanatics? It was a tough job — and I was glad to do it.

I made sure to come hungry, and as waiters presented the first of 16 entrees I was to eat on that Saturday afternoon, I almost cleaned the plate. Fellow judge Pete Blohm (aka Panini Pete) warned, “Slow down, girl. It’s a marathon, not a sprint!” Pete knows his stuff, having judged too many cook-offs across the country to count, and his advice to pace myself was needed and appreciated. At 5 p.m., I rolled out of there, full and happy.

I hope this issue of Mobile Bay leaves you feeling the same — full of excitement about our local chefs, ingredients, dishes and restaurants.

There’s plenty of foodie love in here. Whether you prefer to be in the kitchen or out on the town, you’re gonna eat your way through this November issue!

Maggie Lacey EXECUTIVE EDITOR

maggie@pmtpublishing.com

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

TOP TO BOTTOM Chef Brody Olive from Voyagers served seared diver scallops topped with onion agrodolce resting on a dehydrated heirloom tomato and speck polenta gratin, winning the “People’s Choice” award and was the Grand Tasting’s overall winner. Chef Olive searing scallops on the grill. Chef Bill Briand from Fisher’s at Orange Beach Marina prepared jerk-grilled oysters with crispy chicken skin served on a bed of rock salt.

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WHAT’S ONLINE

Get even more local coverage this month on mobilebaymag.com.

Here’s what’s new!

Best Breakfasts

PHOTO BY NICOLE QUINN

It’s the most important meal of the day, so you better make it count. We’ve compiled a list of some of our favorite local bites to grab on the go.

Meal Prep Made Easy Video: Port City Preps chef Craig Barbarin, featured on page 26, shares tips for making healthy energy bites and easy 10-minute omelets.

Gift Guide Giveaway Follow along with us on Facebook and Instagram to find out how you can win items from this year’s holiday gift guide, page 63.

Cyber Monday Sale Shop Cyber Monday and save!

On November 27, go online to purchase a 1-year subscription to Mobile Bay for just $10.

Party Pics Share your event! Just fill out the Party Pics registration form on our website and submit your event photos to be featured in a gallery on the Web.

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PHOTO BY MATTHEW COUGHLIN

REACTION

COVER GIRL On September’s cover featuring local musician Yo Jonesy Keep going, Jonesy! Every time I walk in the store and see you next to Vogue, I just smile.

- Carlisha Hartzog I love this publication. I remember its original launch date. Mobile Bay Magazine has produced some awesome articles over the years. Great cover!

- Varion Walton

A LIVING HISTORY On September’s “Harlem Hellfighter: The Story of James Reese Europe” As always, Mobile Bay Magazine has brought the history of our area to life. Wonderful writing by wonderful individuals.

- Drew Downey

PEEK-A-BOO On September’s “A View to a Room” Thank you for the peek, Mobile Bay Magazine. Talent in Alabama is never surprising!

- @diningwithmimi

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text by CHELSEA ADAMS

STUDIES SHOW

SOUTHERN RITES

STICK A FORK IN IT

Raw or grilled, naked or topped with sauces, oysters are an integral part of our local culture. But farming them became tough for a while in the early 2000s.

Alabama was the largest oyster processor in the country, but Hurricane Ivan in 2004 destroyed 80 percent of the state’s oyster crop, and subsequent disasters (think Katrina and Deep Water Horizon) only added to the trouble.

Luckily, Alabama’s oyster industry is back on the rise, thanks to a scientist and expert on these shelled delicacies. Dr. Oyster is in, on page 40.

WORD UP

POP QUIZ

EGG-CELLENT QUESTION How can you predict what color eggs a particular hen will lay? a) By the color of her feathers b) By how early she wakes up that day c) By the color of her earlobes d) You can’t ­­— it’s totally random.

BIRDS OF A FEATHER

perdure /purr-DUR/ v.) Continuing to exist; to endure over a period of time Frances Beverly’s writings about society and life in Mobile still ring true. Meet the witty, perceptive documentarian of Old Mobile in Archives, page 75.

What word means “bearing feathers”?

Most people know that frozen, prepackaged foods aren’t the healthiest dinner options, but they’re a booming business anyway. Why is that? A 2016 study by the Society for Nutrition Education and Behavior evaluated the top reasons parents of children aged 8 to 12 buy prepackaged foods, as displayed in the chart below. (Parents could select multiple reasons.)

57% 49% 33% 27% 22% 11%

“I don’t have time.”

“My family likes it.”

“They’re easy for my child to make.”

“They’re cheap.”

“I don’t know what else to make.”

“They’re the only thing my whole family will eat.”

One local business is taking the hassle and guesswork out of healthy eating. Grab a seat and flip over to Spotlight, page 26, to see how Port City Preps is helping to create healthier Mobilians.

BY THE NUMBERS

a) Penniforous

d) Penniform

74°

Don’t be chicken — turn the page over to view the correct answers. Then check out MB’s guide to raising backyard chickens, page 19.

Winter is coming, but November may be the best month of the season for enjoying Mobile’s outdoor scenes. It’s brisk without being freezing and neither overly humid nor dry. Take full advantage of these amazing temps by taking your dining outdoors with MB’s guide to al fresco restaurants, page 56.

b) Plumeopicean c) Pteryla

Average high temp in Mobile on November 1

70°

Average high temp in Mobile on November 15

67°

Average high temp in Mobile on November 30

1. C) White-lobed chickens generally lay white eggs; red-lobed chickens generally lay brown. The exception to this rule is the Ameraucauna, which can lay blue eggs.

2. A) From the Latin “penniger,” meaning feathered. This word appears in few dictionaries today and has largely fallen into obscurity.

PHOTO BY FERNANDO DECILLIS

BIG SHELLS TO FILL

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ELEMENTAL

Invaders of the Gulf Lionfish are in Alabama waters to stay. Learn how the invasive species took root and what its presence means for the future of the Gulf. text by BRECK PAPPAS

PARTY CRASHER The lionfish, of the genus Pterois, is a venomous fish native to the Red Sea and the Indo-Pacific. Its spread throughout the Western Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico over the past several decades has led some to describe the fish as “one of the most aggressively invasive species on the planet.”

THE STING Although their 18 venomous spines can deliver a painful sting, lionfish are not deadly, and many people enjoy eating its flaky meat. If stung by a lionfish, experts suggest washing the site with hot water to help disperse the venom.

CHARACTERISTICS An adult lionfish in the Gulf of Mexico averages one and a half pounds and a length of about nine inches.

Although usually white with red stripes, lionfish can change colors over time in order to blend in with the surrounding environment.

REEFERS Lionfish are reef fish, meaning that they require a three-dimensional structure to survive.

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK STOMACH THIS With an abnormally large mouth and a stomach that can expand up to 30 times its usual size, a lionfish can eat fish that are two-thirds its own body length. And despite being known for their voracious appetites, lionfish are particularly good at storing fat and can go months without eating at all.

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Exacerbating the invasion, lionfish have no natural predators, and because their spread has occurred so rapidly, native species are naïve to the invaders as potential prey and unaware of them as potential predators.

TRACKING LIONFISH ◗ It’s believed that irresponsible aquarium owners introduced lionfish along the Atlantic Coast in the early 1980s.

Within several years, an increase of lionfish was observed off the coasts of Florida and the Carolinas, but it wasn’t until 2010 that the fish were observed in the northern Gulf of Mexico. ◗ Because of their tendency to outcompete native fish, lionfish have been described as one of the most dire threats facing Gulf fisheries. In some places, the hungry and aggressive fish have been found to reduce the net juvenile fish recruitment by 79 percent. ◗ Lionfish are ambush hunters, meaning that they’re very unlikely to pursue a baited hook. Therefore, spearfishing has emerged as the most successful method of lionfish hunting. Since lionfish are unfamiliar with being hunted by the spear, a fisherman can rather easily clear an artificial reef of dozens of lionfish within minutes. ◗ Unfortunately, despite culling by spearfishing, lionfish will continue to thrive in Gulf waters. First of all, they can live at depths that divers can’t access. Also, lionfish exhibit an astonishing rate of reproduction, capable of releasing 115,000 eggs as often as every 2 to 3 days. ◗ The NUISANCE group, an Alabamabased nonprofit organization, is working to promote lionfish as a delicious seafood option, and several Gulf Coast restaurants and grocers have hopped on the bandwagon. Lionfish meat is often described as flaky, tender and mild and can be prepared like any other variety of white fish. In fact, it’s a particularly healthy option as it’s low in saturated fats and high in hearthealthy Omega-3 fatty acids. MB

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GUMBO

A Backyard Poultry Primer

Keeping chickens has become a hot trend in recent years, but backyard eggs are no flash in the pan. MB tells you how to get started. text by LAWREN LARGUE • photos by AIMEE REYNOLDS

E

very morning, shortly after the rooster crows, the race is on. The three Smeraglia children hurry outside to the family’s backyard chicken coop.

It’s a mad dash for Huck, Abigail and Paisley to garner as many eggs as they can muster, then dash back to the kitchen counter. Whoever arrives with the biggest collection wins. And boy, there are plenty to gather! The family’s flock typically lays up to 15 eggs per day. Naturally, the kids’ mom, Noel, then whips up a protein-packed breakfast of scrambled eggs.

Once the kiddos return home from school, the older siblings feed the

chickens and check to make sure they have clean water, while the youngest pays a visit to her best friend. While many preschoolers would tote around blinking baby dolls, 4-year-old Paisley can usually be found with her favorite fowl, a buff orpington called Hei Hei, tucked underneath her arm. Named for the silly chicken character on the Disney movie, “Moana,” the coppercolored hen has a special fondness for Paisley, too. When she notices the child is nearby, the bird plops down and sits very still, just waiting for Paisley to scoop her up and carry her around the yard. Such is the life for one pet chicken in Baldwin County.

Nowadays, raising chickens in a residential area is not all that rare.

Flocks of families all over Mobile and Baldwin counties — in the country, suburbs and even in the middle of the city — are bringing in the birds.

So, the question arises: Are backyard chickens an agricultural commodity and easy source for an organic breakfast, or are they quirky pets that offer amusing companionship and just so happen to earn their keep? It seems to be a mixture of both. Perhaps the more important question is, are they worth the hassle? MB shares the basics so you can decide if a backyard brood is all it’s cracked up to be.

ABOVE Paisley, Huck and Abigail Smeraglia follow the family’s flock of hens through the backyard at their Baldwin County home. november 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 19

Laws and Order Before you even get started, be sure to learn your area’s backyard chicken guidelines. The city of Fairhope only recently voted to allow backyard chickens, but rooster ban remains on the books. A permit must be obtained to keep residential chickens within the Mobile city limits. There are stipulations as to the size and location of the coop and number of chickens per square foot, among other things, so review these guidelines before jumping in! The Mobile County Health Department sets and enforces all the regulations while working closely with the Mobile Bay Area Backyard Chicken Club (MBABYCC), an active community of locals who are raising chickens and educating others on the best practices.

Don’t Wing It Talk to friends who keep chickens, visit their coops and ask lots of questions to get a feel for the routine.

Before your itty bitties come home, it’s time to do a little nesting of your own. Gather your supplies and prepare their new home. Local expert Tracy McCarter, owner of St. Elmo Feed & Seed, shares the necessities for each phase of raising your chickens.

PHASE 1: Indoor Chicks Baby chicks will need to stay indoors for the first six to eight weeks of life (especially on cool nights). A cage, large cardboard box or plastic container is a sufficient shelter. If desired, you may add shavings or hay to make their home extra cozy. You’ll also need a waterer, a feeder and starter feed. Finally, you’ll want a heat source, such as a lamp, to help the chicks maintain their body temperature. (Be extremely careful of fire hazards.) Baby chicks also require personal time. You’ll need to nurture and play with them so that they grow accustomed to human interaction.

Also, expect to clean their home often. McCarter notes, “Most newbies don’t quite understand how much chicks poop!” Fortunately, fowl waste makes exceptional garden fertilizer.

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MOBILE BAY AREA BACKYARD CHICKEN CLUB Birds of a feather flock together! Consider joining the Mobile Bay Area Backyard Chicken Club. On their Facebook page, you’ll discover sound advice on everything from how to treat suspected chicken illnesses, get rats out of a coop or find a new home for a “surprise rooster.” All members who pay the $20 annual dues will also have access to the club’s events. New chicken parents should also refer to their regulations pamphlet, which is used directly by the permitting office and is chock-full of rules and information.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The three Smeraglia children attempt to catch a few hens in the family’s yard, which is fully enclosed to keep out predators. Their stylish coop has everything the hens need to stay dry and warm. Little Paisley gives her pet buff orpington chicken, Hei Hei, her daily dose of love. The kids open the egg box to easily retrieve the morning’s bounty.

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BEST BREEDS FOR LOCAL BEGINNERS

Ameraucana

According to Tracy McCarter of St. Elmo Feed & Seed, these standard non-rare breeds tend to thrive and lay well in Lower Alabama.

Black Australorp

Barred Plymouth Rock

PHASE 2: Outdoor Growers and Layers When your girls are fully feathered and ready to move outside, they will need a forever home. A coop is a structure where chickens are kept at night. A good one should include roost poles (where they sleep), nesting boxes (where they lay eggs), insulation and bedding (such as pine shavings) and a run (or roaming area). Finally, you’ll certainly want an egg box, which provides easy access to the eggs. “New coops can run between $200 and $500; however, recycled materials often make the best ones,” says McCarter.

The website backyardchickens.com and Pinterest offer a multitude of ideas.

The size of your brood and whether or not they will be free-range will help you determine the square footage needed. (MBABYCC recommends at least 3 square feet of floor space per chicken.) You’ll also need to make sure the coop’s enclosure offers plenty of shade and is waterproof and well ventilated to minimize odor, mold and disease. The hen house should be secured with ample fencing (such as chicken wire) to provide protection from predators. In the Mobile Bay area, dogs are by far the largest threat; however, hawks, foxes, coyotes, cats, snakes and raccoons are also

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Rhode Island Red

Buff Orpington

Red Sex Link

known to attack local backyard birds.

In addition to the feeder and waterer (set up so that the animals’ waste cannot contaminate it), hens will need grower or layer feed. As a “treat,” they can be fed chicken scratch, such as cracked corn, but this should not exceed 10 percent of their diet.

New spring chicks, separated by both breed and gender, arrive at St. Elmo the first Friday of February and stay in stock through the end of April. “A lot of people get so excited about the chicks and buy them in February,” says McCarter. “But, it’s usually better to wait until April once the nights are warmer.”

Chick Lit

Egg-cellent Rewards

Next comes the fun part: Choosing your little ones. High-quality chicks can be purchased at area feed stores, online hatcheries or from reputable local breeders. You’ll want at least three since hens prefer to live in groups.

“We recommend starting with four to six hens, depending on the amount of eggs wanted,” says McCarter.

Think of all the adorable names you’ll get to dole out to match each little one’s appearance and personality.

Note that when chicks are small, it is especially difficult to decipher their genders. It’s oftentimes the cluck of the draw! So, if you live in the city limits, you’ll want to buy chicks from a vendor that can guarantee them to be female. Roosters are a cock-a-doodle don’t in town! Rachel and Chris Holley of West Mobile got quite the surprise this summer when Cookie, a barred Plymouth Rock breed, let out a big, loud crow one morning.

“Contrary to popular belief, a healthy hen does not lay an egg every day,” says McCarter. Life expectancy is four to five years, but most chickens only actually lay for about three. “During normal times of non-stress and non-molting, a hen should lay three to four eggs per week.” Once collected, eggs may be dry-wiped and stored on the counter or wet-wiped and stored in the refrigerator for four to five weeks, or more.

Once you’re all set up, hens require minimal effort — simply feeding and watering daily, cleaning the coop and putting out fresh shavings weekly. Just be forewarned that many owners agree the hobby is quite addictive. In fact, one Saturday morning this fall, Paisley’s dad, Frank, took her along on his visit to the feed store. She brought along her piggy bank money — $5. That afternoon, 20 more baby chicks joined Hei Hei and the family! Turns out, backyard eggs really are all they’re cracked up to be. MB

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THE DISH interviews by CHELSEA ADAMS • photo by SUMMER ENNIS

Bite of the Bay From trendy pop-up dinners to classic steak houses, MB’s contributing food fanatics share the local dishes that made them hungry for more this month.

HOSEA LONDON, Leader and Manager, The Excelsior Band

CRAB CLAWS AT LIGHTHOUSE “There’s no better place to get fresh seafood dishes than Irvington. One of my favorites is crab claws at The Lighthouse. The claws are big with an ample amount of meat per bite, lightly breaded and fried perfectly: soft-fried with a flour batter that’s light and tasty. Traditional slaw and a baked potato completes this Southern delicacy.”

LIGHTHOUSE RESTAURANT • 12495 COUNTY

DR. RICHARD OTTS, Doctor of Obstetrics and Gynecology, Mobile Infirmary

PORK CHEEK AT PLATE + GATHER “Ox Kitchen’s sous chef, Wade Price, prepared a superb six-course Asian pop-up dinner: tuna tartare, pickled shrimp, chicken karaage, red miso ramen and togarashi cheesecake. But the pork cheek with crispy Brussels sprouts, chili, lime and shallots (pictured) was my favorite.

The smoked whiskey, sweet vermouth and cherry bitters cocktail by Tongue & Groove was the perfect accompaniment.”

ROAD 23, IRVINGTON • 824-2500 • FACEBOOK.

PLATE + GATHER POP-UP DINNER • QUARTERLY AT

COM/LIGHTHOUSE-RESTAURANT

THE WINDMILL MARKET • WINDMILLMARKET.ORG

STEAK AT RUTH’S CHRIS “My family and I had a wonderful time at Ruth’s Chris for dinner. Of course, the steak was the highlight. It was cooked to perfection, as ordered, and served on a hot platter with sizzling butter.

The additional mouthwatering dishes included fried shoestring potatoes and creamy, rich spinach au gratin. Then, to top off the meal, we enjoyed an amazing frozen Chrissy. I must add, as usual, the service was over-the-top.”

GRILLED CHEESE AT BRICK & SPOON “The ‘Grown-up Grilled Cheese’ at Brick & Spoon is loaded with smoked Gouda and Monterey Jack cheeses, a fried egg, bacon, spring mix and tomatoes on toasted sourdough bread. The burst of flavor from the egg and bacon mixed with cheeses was totally unexpected but welcome. The fried egg was gooey but not runny in texture. We also had their signature mango mimosas that are strong and refreshing. It’s a great place for brunch!”

RUTH’S CHRIS • 2058 AIRPORT BLVD.

BRICK & SPOON • 3662 AIRPORT BLVD. SUITE A

476-0516 • RUTHSCHRIS.COM

378-8378 • BRICKANDSPOONRESTAURANT.COM

 Share your favorite dishes around the Bay on our Facebook page.

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MARY COURTNEY CANE, President, Courtney and Morris Real Estate

DR. ASH PRAKASH, Asst. Professor of Oncologic Services, USA Mitchell Cancer Institute

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SPOTLIGHT

CRAIG BARBARIN JR. PORT CITY PREPS

text by CHELSEA ADAMS • photos by ELISE POCHÉ

in the Mobile Bay area: delivery of homecooked meals.

“Everybody wants to be healthier,” Barbarin says. “But a majority of people feel as if they don’t know how. We can fill that gap and make it so that’s not an excuse. We have the food taken care of.

Ignorance isn’t an option anymore.”

It’s true: Between the overabundance of “health tips” out there and just trying to fit everything into your day, spending time cooking healthful meals gets pushed to the back burner.

Literally. Barbarin explains that’s what drove him to create Port City Preps.

He takes the frustration out of cooking wholesome and healthy meals.

Roots in Food

When it comes to healthful food around the Bay, this cook and his business are ready to impress with service, knowledge and flavor.

T

he dining room is empty.

Vacant tables and chairs patiently await the flurry of dinner at Lafayette’s Restaurant with pristine tablecloths and dishes set out, all ready for guests.

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Hidden from the quiet of the main restaurant, Craig Barbarin Jr. is in the kitchen, but he’s not prepping for hungry diners soon to come. As part owner of Port City Preps, Barbarin has tapped a previously untouched market

Barbarin grew up watching his father rise through the ranks of New Orleans restaurants, starting as a maître d’ at Brennan’s and Copeland’s. The Barbarins moved to Mobile when Craig was 12, and his dad opened Lafayette’s.

Barbarin says, “I have a real New Orleans South cooking concept that I learned from my dad.”

He’s been on the line with his dad since he was a teenager, but even before then he was eager to impress with food. Now sitting by the bright windows in the quiet dining room, Barbarin recounts a childhood story.

His sister had just returned from Girl Scout camp and was showing off a few campout recipes she’d learned. “She’d learned to cook chicken in a pouch or something like that. And they learned how to cook some soup, and the first thing I remember cooking was taking cans of tomato soup, cans of beans, corn, and I would always make these soups, just making random soups at 11 or 12 years old,” Barbarin shares with a nostalgic laugh.

By 2012, he had his personal trainer certification and spent the next five years as a trainer — hence where his

healthy know-how comes from. He noticed that his clients were working out but not eating well afterward.

What began with cooking meals for a handful of his training clients eventually morphed into a business all its own. Along with business partner, Keefe Ollis, Barbarin brought Port City Preps to life.

The process is simple: Log onto their website, build your ideal meal (choose a wholesome protein, filling veggies, smart carbs and tasty seasonings) and voila — you’re done! And keeping every component separate and interchangeable means boredom in eating is never a worry.

Barbarin and Ollis didn’t want to box customers in with permanent, set options. “We have everything, including seasonings, listed separately to give options and the variety to mix it up how they want, so there’s that leeway,” Barbarin explains. “You know everything on this menu is good for you.” (Fun fact: there are 5,292 different possible combinations using their menu! Don’t worry though: There are a handful of suggested combos if you just can’t decide.)

Beyond that, everything on the Port City Preps menu is whole food. Gone are the additives and filler that have taken over the food market. Barbarin and Ollis focus on providing tasty food that is also good for your body.

Ollis adds, “Convenient food isn’t usually very healthy. With our stuff, you pull it out, pop it in, and you’ve got a healthful meal that’s quick and prepped for you.”

An Edible Education And Port City Preps doesn’t stop at just cooking your food for you. They also post quick videos on their Facebook page, walking newbies through cooking basics from a simple omelet tutorial (including how to avoid destroying your

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breakfast when flipping) to recipes for easy morning energy bites. And unlike most delivery services, they have no set delivery radius. Stationed in Azalea Manor downtown, Port City Preps serves clients in Mobile, Fairhope, Spanish Fort and even Citronelle and Saraland. Distance is no matter; they care only about spreading good-for-you food that customers will be excited to devour. “Delivery is $0.50 per mile, and if you will pay it, we’ll deliver to you,” Ollis shares.

When asked what advice he would give to those hoping to embark on a healthier journey, Barbarin explains, “A big thing is learning to read labels.

People see ‘low fat,’ but they don’t notice the increased sugar or sodium.

The amount of calories in food doesn’t determine how good it is for you. We have a lot of people begging us to put

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ABOVE Barbarin preps a popular selection from their menu: Steak with fresh asparagus and sweet potato. Port City Preps buys all of their produce locally from Old Shell Market.

calorie counts on our menu, but it’s more about what’s in the food.”

Their favorite things to eat from their menu? “The steak, easily,” Ollis says without hesitation as they both laugh. Barbarin agrees, adding, “My wife really likes the salmon and sweet potato mash.”

Healthy is a lifestyle, and it starts with exciting, flavorful, wholesome food. And Barbarin and Ollis are absolutely ready to deliver. MB

 If you’re ready for a taste, visit portcitypreps.com to place your order.

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TASTINGS text by MAGGIE LACEY • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

EUGENE’S MONKEY BAR

EGGS ST. FRANCIS

E

ugene Walter once declared, “If I was dictator of Mobile, I would have an open-air café facing Bienville Square.” Mobile’s Renaissance man got his wish this past January when Eugene’s Monkey Bar opened on Conception Street downtown inside the new Hilton Garden Inn. Walter reveled in all things old South, such as front porches and sweet tea, and he even carried a box of Alabama red clay with him during his travels. But the Mobile native, artist, author and bon vivant (among many other titles) spent the better part of his adulthood in Paris and Rome. So it is that Eugene’s Monkey Bar offers deeply rooted Southern flavors in a chic and sleek atmosphere, worthy of a more urban locale.

The juxtaposition is fitting for a café named in Walter’s honor.

Eugene’s Monkey Bar’s Sunday brunch is becoming famous with locals who enjoy the extensive menu and bottomless Bloody Mary and mimosa bar. Happy hour on the front porch proves the perfect way to unwind after a long workday, and the creative cocktails are as fresh as the food. Chef Rebecca James, who worked her way up from line cook to pastry chef to executive chef, takes pride in crafting sauces from scratch and sourcing locally whenever possible. She uses Fairhope’s Bill E’s Bacon to make her candied sriracha bacon for the Nola Chicken sandwich, and all the seasoned fries and chips are hand-cut. She laughs that guests may not remember her name, but they are going to leave remembering that food.

There’s no need to book a room at the hotel to enjoy the fare, but having these dishes brought straight to your bed via room service sounds like a really good idea, too. MB  Eugene’s Monkey Bar • Breakfast 6 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. M - F, 7 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. Sa - Su; Brunch 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. Su; Dinner 4 p.m. – 10 p.m. M - F • 15 N. Conception St. • 378-9377 eugenesmonkeybar.com • Average entree price: $12

ON THE MENU EGGS ST. FRANCIS Delicate poached eggs are perched on top of a Gulf blue crab cake and Conecuh sausage, then topped with a homemade horseradish remoulaude. A fried green tomato, from-scratch biscuit and creamy grits round out this breakfast plate.

NOLA CHICKEN Chicken is marinated 24 hours in sriracha buttermilk and then double-breaded for an extra crispy fillet. Topped with candied sriracha Bill E’s Bacon, ranch slaw and housemade pickles, this dish is served with hand-cut sweet potato chips.

MONKEY BURGER Brisket and ground chuck are combined to make the perfect patty, which is grilled and topped with creamy housemade pimento cheese and bacon. It’s served on a butter-toasted bun with “everything bagel” topping alongside hand-cut fries.

SHRIMP AND GRITS Sautéed Gulf shrimp, Conecuh sausage, and the “Cajun trinity” of red and green peppers and onions are served over stoneground cheese grits in a creamy (but not too heavy) sauce with a sprinkling of goat cheese on top — for the win.

SHRIMP AND GRITS

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BAY TABLES

The Chefs’ Thanksgiving Talented chefs at favorite local restaurants share recipes, tips and personal Thanksgiving memories. text and styling by MAGGIE LACEY • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

T

hanksgiving is the one holiday in which food is truly the star. With turkey as the centerpiece for many a family triumph (or disaster), the sides and desserts spill forth in every direction and make for fond, even if overstuffed, memories. Most families have traditions they follow year after year.

Tarragon and Apple Glazed Turkey 1 18-pound turkey, giblet packet removed 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper, to taste 2 large yellow onions 1 small bunch celery 3 Granny Smith apples

Still, with an ever-increasing interest in eating seasonally, locally and fresh as fresh can be, there are many ways to brighten up even the most steadfast dishes.

MB reached out to some of the best chefs on both sides of the Bay to tell us what they’re preparing this year. Time to kick your Thanksgiving gameplan up a notch.

SERVES 10

8 cloves garlic 1 bunch rosemary 1 bunch fresh tarragon (dried may be substituted) peel of 1 orange 3 cups white wine Apple Tarragon Glaze (see right)

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Thoroughly rinse the turkey and pat dry. Brush turkey, inside and out, with extra virgin olive oil. Season liberally with salt and pepper. Set aside.

2. Roughly slice onions, celery and apples. Place half the mixture in the bottom of a roasting pan and the other half inside the cavity of the turkey. Divide garlic cloves, 6 sprigs of rosemary and 6 sprigs of tarragon between the roasting pan and the inside of the turkey. Add the orange peel to the cavity of the turkey, and place the turkey in the roasting pan on top of the vegetable mixture.

3. Add enough white wine to cover the bottom of the roasting pan, about 3 cups.

Carefully cover the turkey with aluminum foil, tenting so it does not touch the skin. (Two sheets of foil, overlapped on the edges and crimped, may be required.)

4. Place turkey in the oven and cook for 3 1/2 to 4 hours until an internal temperature of 165 degrees is achieved. During the last 15 minutes, remove foil and apply the Apple Tarragon Glaze, repeatedly brushing the turkey. Cook until a deep golden brown color is achieved. Watch carefully as the sugar in the glaze will color the turkey quickly.

5. Remove turkey from oven and allow to rest at room temperature for 10 minutes before carving. Meanwhile, strain off the pan drippings and use for optional gravy.

RECIPE BY CHEF ADRIAN YOTS, THYME ON SECTION

“My wife’s family and my family get together to share the meal. Everyone pitches in and brings a dish or two that they are famous for, and the day usually turns into a feast with naps!”

Apple Tarragon Glaze YIELDS 1 1/2 CUPS 1 12-ounce jar apple jelly 1 tablespoon dried tarragon 2 tablespoons fresh chopped tarragon 2 tablespoons brandy (optional)

1. Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan and melt over low heat. Hold at room temperature until ready to baste turkey. november 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 33

“I come from a family where seasonal side dishes rule Thanksgiving. The combination of hearty fall produce with fresh, local citrus really opens up a lot of flavor combinations.”

RECIPE BY CHEF CHRIS RAINOSEK, THE NOBLE SOUTH

Shrimp Toast with Butternut Squash and Mustard Green Salsa Verde SERVES 8

Warm Apple Cider YIELDS 2 QUARTS 2 cinnamon sticks 1 teaspoon whole cloves 4 - 5 whole black peppercorns 1 whole star anise 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1 teaspoon whole allspice 5 whole Granny Smith apples, sliced and seeded 2 quarts unfiltered, all-natural apple cider 1/2 cup packed brown sugar 1 orange, sliced 1 liter rye whiskey, such as Bulleit cinnamon sticks and strips of orange zest, for garnish

1. Place cinnamon, cloves, peppercorn, star anise, nutmeg, allspice and apples in electric crockpot set to high.

Let simmer lightly, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low.

2. Add cider and brown sugar and stir until sugar dissolves completely.

Place orange slices on top. Cover and cook on low for 2 - 3 hours or until heated through.

3. Reduce heat to warm, add whiskey and stir. Use a fine mesh strainer to discard debris.

4. Garnish with cinnamon stick and orange zest.

1 butternut squash salt and pepper, to taste 1/4 cup diced sweet onion 3 garlic cloves, chopped small 1/2 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley 1/2 cup chopped green onion 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon allspice 1/2 teaspoon cayenne 1 teaspoon salt (or to taste) 1/2 teaspoon black pepper (or to taste) juice of 1 lemon 1 egg white 5 slices thick white bread 1 cup canola or vegetable oil Mustard Green Salsa Verde (see right)

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Split the butternut squash from top to bottom, remove seeds and place cut-side down on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake until tender, about 35 minutes.

2. When cool enough to handle, remove the meat of the squash with a spoon and place in a food processor.

Add a pinch of salt and pepper. Puree till smooth. Set aside.

3. Sauté sweet onion and garlic in a pan until soft, 3 minutes. Set aside.

4. In a food processor, place shrimp, parsley, green onion, cooked onion and garlic, paprika, allspice, cayenne, salt, black pepper, lemon juice and egg white. Pulse, scraping down the sides of the bowl until mixture is well combined and a paste consistency, about 1 minute. Put mixture in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and

refrigerate for 1 hour.

5. Lightly toast white bread. Cut off crusts. Spread a thin layer of the butternut squash puree on one side.

Top the puree with the shrimp mixture, making a layer as thick as the bread. Cut each piece of toast into 4 triangles.

6. Heat 1/2 inch oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, place toast shrimp-side down and fry till crispy. Serve hot or room temperature topped with Mustard Green Salsa Verde.

Mustard Green Salsa Verde MAKES 1 1/2 CUPS 1 large Granny Smith apple 3 teaspoons chopped garlic 1/2 tablespoon chili flakes pinch of salt, to taste 1 1/2 cup packed chopped mustard greens 2/3 cup olive oil 1 tablespoon fish sauce 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar pinch of salt and black pepper

1. Peel apple and grate on a box grater onto layered paper towels. Squeeze paper towels to remove excess liquid.

2. Finely chop garlic and chili flakes together with a pinch of salt until a paste forms.

3. Combine grated apple, garlic and chili flake mixture and remaining ingredients in a bowl. Stir to combine and refrigerate for at least an hour

“Nothing says ‘happy Thanksgiving with family’ like whiskey!”

RECIPE BY KYLE KINDER, TONGUE AND GROOVE DRINKERY

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“I like to do savory sweet potato or squash dishes because savory ingredients shine more so than something drenched in sugar. I save my sweet tooth for all the pie I can eat!”

RECIPE BY CHEF ARWEN RICE, RED OR WHITE

Fall Vegetable Gratin SERVES 8 2 1 1 2 1 3 2

large butternut squash 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes 1/2 pounds carrots or parsnips tablespoons olive oil medium onion, diced cloves garlic, minced chipotle peppers, diced and seeded 2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, plus more to taste 1 cup cream 1/4 cup butter 8 ounces grated cheddar cheese

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Cut the butternut squash in half length-wise and scoop out the seeds.

Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and put facedown on a sheet pan lined with foil and sprayed with a little cooking spray. Roast for 25 minutes or until a knife inserts easily into the thickest part. Reduce oven heat to 350 degrees.

2. Put the sweet potatoes, carrots or parsnips and a sprinkling of salt in a large pot and fill with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook for 25 minutes or until soft. Drain and let cool slightly.

3. Peel the cooled butternut squash, sweet potatoes and carrots and cut into medium chunks and put into a large bowl.

4. Heat oil in sauté pan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and sauté until softened. Add the chipotles, salt and pepper and cook for another minute. Add this to the squash mixture.

5. Heat the cream and butter in a small saucepan until the butter is melted and the cream is warm. Pour into squash mixture and mash with a potato masher until fairly smooth.

6. Scoop mixture into a greased, oven-safe pan and top with grated cheddar. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until cheese is brown and bubbly.

Serve warm.

Oyster, Tasso Cornbread Dressing SERVES 8 1 box Jiffy Corn Muffin Mix, cooked according to package directions and cooled 2 1/2 pounds diced tasso ham 2 cups diced yellow onion 1 cup diced celery 1 cup diced green bell pepper 1 tablespoon minced garlic 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon black pepper 1 tablespoon paprika 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 1/2 cups chicken or turkey stock 1 pound chopped oysters, liquor reserved 2 tablespoons hot sauce 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1/4 cup chopped green onions 1/4 cup chopped parsley

1. Prepare Jiffy Corn Muffin Mix according to package directions. Allow to cool completely. Crumble cornbread and set aside.

2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and add tasso. Cook until fat is rendered, then add onions, celery, bell pepper and garlic. Sauté until translucent. Add salt, pepper, paprika, chili powder, stock, oysters and oyster liquor. Simmer for 15 minutes at medium-high heat, stirring regularly.

3. Slowly add crumbled cornbread until you get a stuffing consistency.

Add hot sauce, lemon juice, green onions and parsley. Put stuffing mixture in a greased casserole dish and allow to cool.

4. Bake stuffing uncovered until hot and crispy on top, about 45 minutes.

Holiday Rolls

MAKES 24 ROLLS

7 cups unbleached flour 1 tablespoon yeast 1 tablespoon salt 2/3 cup brown sugar 4 eggs, room temperature 1/2 cup canola oil 2 cups buttermilk, room temperature egg wash (1 egg and a splash of buttermilk) poppy or sesame seeds (optional)

1. Place all dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Create a well in the center and add wet ingredients (except egg wash), mixing with a rubber spatula until the dough is stiff enough to turn out on a floured surface.

2. Knead the dough until smooth, about 5 to 10 minutes. If using a mixer, using the dough hook, mix on first speed for 3 minutes and second speed for 2 minutes. Place the dough in a clean, oiled bowl and turn the dough to coat it with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and divide into small golf-ball-size pieces. After shaping, place on a baking pan and cover with a tea towel to let rise again, 30 to 45 minutes, or until doubled in size.

4. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk together egg wash in a small bowl.

Brush the tops of the rolls with the egg wash. Sprinkle poppy or sesame seeds on top, if desired. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until deep golden brown.

RECIPE BY JENNIFER HAFFNER, WAREHOUSE BAKERY & DONUTS

“Thanksgiving is all about family, and I alternate between spending it with my two families — either being my mothers prep cook or spending it with my Fisher’s family, which I dearly love.”

RECIPE BY CHEF BILL BRIAND, FISHER’S AT ORANGE BEACH MARINA

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“Thanksgiving is one of my most loved days of the year because it’s all about being with family and enjoying each other — ­ and of course, it’s also about the food! It’s the one holiday of the year when everyone makes the effort to come together (it’s a big family — usually more than 80 people) to enjoy all our best homemade family recipes.”

PAM ROBERTS, BAKE MY DAY

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RECIPE BY PAM ROBERTS AND PAULA BENTLEY, BAKE MY DAY

Carrot Cake MAKES 1 THREE-LAYER CAKE 2 cups cake flour 2 teaspoons baking soda 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup vegetable oil 2 cups granulated sugar 4 eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla 3 cups grated carrot 1 cup chopped pecans

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray three 9-inch cake pans with baking spray.

2. Mix flour, baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon and salt together.

Set aside.

3. Using hand or stand mixer, mix oil, sugar and eggs until well blended.

4. Add dry ingredients to egg mixture a little at a time until well blended.

Add vanilla and mix well. Add carrots, then add pecans.

5. Pour evenly into prepared pans.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until tester comes out clean.

7. Cool cakes completely. Frost with Cream Cheese Icing (see below).

Cream Cheese Icing 2 sticks butter 16 ounces cream cheese 2 pounds sifted confectioners sugar 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1. Using hand or stand mixer, cream butter and cream cheese together until light and fluffy. Slowly add confectioners sugar and mix until smooth.

Add vanilla and mix well.

2. Frost cake immediately or store in airtight container in the refrigerator.

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THE DOCTOR IS IN Meet the scientist behind Alabama’s oyster farming movement, a transplant from up east who has made his mark down south. text by EMMETT BURNETT • photos by FERNANDO DECILLIS

D

own here they call him “Dr. Oyster.” “Here” is the Auburn University Shellfish Lab on Dauphin Island, where Associate Professor Extension Specialist Bill Walton, Ph.D., is the master of the mollusk.

“I wish I could offer you cocktail sauce,” the Auburn teacher says with a smile, leading a tour of the Dauphin Island lab, where oysters in all stages of life are everywhere.

Plastic tubing runs from tanks, some the size of goldfish bowls and others the size of minivans.

In the lab are “seed oysters”— babies from the size of pinheads to your pinky nail — lodged in buckets. They are sorted and inspected. From a distance they look like gray gravel. Up close, they are tiny shellfish, 50,000 to 150,000 per bucket.

Small tanks house oyster eggs, specks practically invisible to the naked eye. They are nurtured and fed and encouraged to spawn in what Dr. Walton calls “an oyster’s Club Med.” The mood enhancement works. On some days, Dauphin Island’s facility hosts over a billion such microscopic eggs.

“Bill is the brains and leadership that launched Alabama’s modern oyster industry,” says Ft. Morgan’s Navy Cove Oysters’ Chuck Wilson, speaking on behalf of his friend and mentor. “It’s wonderful having a specialist conduct research to help us solve our challenges. Bill is the first one in the water and the last one out. He is not afraid to get his hands dirty.”

Grand Bay’s Point aux Pins oyster farm’s Hugh McClure adds, “Bill doesn’t just stand on the pier and watch.” On today’s visit at the Auburn Oyster Lab, McLure shovels 50,000 small oysters through a tumbler apparatus that looks like a sideways washing machine. Shellfish are added in one end. They spin in the machine, bounce and fall through holes, sorted by size. The tumbling action creates deep pockets in the meat and the attractive shells that connoisseurs prize. McLure and Dr. Walton monitor the operation.

“Buyers want nice shells and, of course, good meat,” says the doctor. “If the oyster is not pretty, it will not bring a good price.” The advice is well heeded.

“I don’t know anybody who knows more about oysters than Bill,” adds Jon Gil of Southern Cross Sea Farms in

TOP Walton at the Auburn University Shellfish Laboratory.

BOTTOM Inspecting a basket of oyster spat on shell in a nursery tank at the Auburn University Shellfish Laboratory.

november 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 41

Cedar Key, Florida. “He has been here when I needed him as a trainer or just needed his advice.”

Dr. Walton has a bachelor’s degree in biology from Tufts University, a master’s degree in ecology and evolution from Rutgers University and a Ph.D. in fisheries science from the University of Maryland. But his initial training started as a boy, playing at a creek.

“I grew up on a dirt road in rural New Jersey,” he notes.

“It was not an environment conducive to raising oysters.”

But his childhood home had nearby creeks with crawfish.

“Creek critters helped start my interest in aquatic invertebrates.” His fascination never left.

“Invertebrates are so different, almost like alien life forms,” the oyster expert says. “They are in a whole other world. In the book of life, invertebrates are a small chapter in the back of the book, yet they are the majority of the animal kingdom.”

His pre-Auburn-on-the-Island days included work as a marine extension agent with Cape Cod Cooperative Extension and Woods Hole Sea Grant. He and wife Beth — a Massachusetts native who worked in the fish hatchery business — once owned a small New England oyster farm.

At an early point in his career, he was a clam constable.

But one day an email came through on Dr. Walton’s computer in Cape Cod: A ‘help wanted’ bulletin from Auburn University.

“The university was looking for a shellfish specialist to work on an Alabama island I did not know,” recalls Bill.

“Our knowledge of Dauphin Island consisted of what Beth saw on the news about Hurricane Katrina.” In the summer of 2008, the New England couple traveled south for the job interview. It was their first time in Alabama.

“It was so green and beautiful,” Dr. Walton recalls about his first impressions of the Gulf Coast. “I loved Mobile’s history, the bayou’s character, and Mardi Gras. I still do.”

During the Christmas holidays of 2008, the couple — with their two children, boys ages 3 and 1 — drove from Cape Cod in a terrible blizzard, for a new life in the sunny South. They arrived at Dauphin Island on December 31, 2008. “On our first visit in summer we saw palm trees. We thought South Alabama would be tropical, like Key West.

“We were freezing! Beth searched the luggage for winter clothes for the boys. This was not expected!” After almost a decade down here, the family has adjusted to the area’s quirks of nature, including the weather.

TOP Seed, or juvenile single oysters, are raised on mesh screens in tanks with flowing seawater. MIDDLE Walton inspects the condition of oysters at the Point aux Pins oyster farm with Hugh and Brandon McClure. BOTTOM AND OPPOSITE Baskets of oysters are air-dried to keep the mesh and oysters clean of overgrowth like barnacles, seaweed and mussels.

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“Bill teaches in class and does handson work equally well. He talks to the community, fishermen, farmers, business owners and environmentalists — everyone. But he goes beyond the textbooks. He does the research and offers real solutions to real world problems.”

- Dr. Kelly Dorgan, Senior Marine Scientist, Dauphin Island Sea Lab

Sharing Innovations

Today, Dr. Bill is a major force in the Gulf Coast oyster industry. “I think it’s because he is very down-to-earth and his energy is unbounded,” says colleague Dr. Stan Allen, Virginia Institute of Marine Science.

One of Walton’s ongoing projects is off-bottom oyster farming, a process involving the placement of baby oysters in cages or baskets suspended off the ocean floor, protecting them from predators, such as barnacles. “It’s a TLC approach,” says Dr. Walton, “as opposed to the tough love traditional method of oysters planted on the ocean bottom.”

He worked on the off-bottom technique with a pioneer, LSU oyster expert Dr. John Supan. “It’s nice having Bill nearby,” Dr. Supan notes, from his Baton Rouge campus.

He then adds, “Bill and I were featured together in a stadium football bulletin when LSU played Auburn last year. It proves two football rivals can work together.”

Communities and fisheries can work together, too, and Dr. Oyster is passionate about both. Another colleague, Senior Marine Scientist at Dauphin Island Sea Lab, Dr. Kelly Dorgan, says “Bill talks to everyone — business owners and environmentalists, farmers and fishermen, students and civic groups.” And, of course, the media.

Walton’s outreach — coupled with his field experiments

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in off-bottom farming, tumbling and air-drying — has produced one of the country’s largest marketers of premium, consistent-quality oysters that are beautiful to behold, easier to shuck and as perfectly salty as Gulf Coast waters ever produced.

“I love oysters and helping create opportunities for people on the coast to live and work with the water,” Dr. Walton summarizes. “To me it says something: We live in a place where we can harvest oysters from our own waters. We live in a beautiful place.”

He adds, “In order to live, oysters must have pure, clean water. No one understands this more than oyster farmers; their livelihood depends on clean water. You want these people in your neighborhood.” MB ABOVE Spat on shell, or clusters of young oysters on older shell, are used for enhancing public reefs, restoration efforts and private leases.

HUNGRY FOR MORE?

While Alabama Oysters can now be found on menus at swanky restaurants far and wide, they still pop up locally, too. Be sure to ask for these farmed oysters by name at establishments like The Noble South, Dauphin’s and Fisher’s at Orange Beach Marina.

Coden Beach Oyster Co. Portersville Bay, AL Facebook – CodenBeachOyster Isle Dauphine Oysters Dauphin Island, AL www.mobileoysterco.com Massacre Island Oysters Dauphin Island, AL massacreislandoyster.com Mon Louis Oysters Portersville Bay, AL Murder Point Oysters Grand Bay, AL murderpointoysters.com Navy Cove Oysters Fort Morgan, AL Facebook – NavyCoveOysters Point aux Pins Oysters Grand Bay, AL Facebook – PointauxPins Shellbank Selects Fort Morgan, AL Turtleback Oysters Portersville Bay, AL Facebook – PortersvilleBayOyster

BRING HOME A SACK.

Many of these locally farmed oysters can be pre-ordered by the case from Bon Secour Fisheries. bonsecourfisheries.com 949-7411

november 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 45

PICK YOUR TOPPINGS

While some may view it as sacrilege to top these buttery fresh bivalves with anything at all, others prefer a little zing. Skip the over-used cocktail sauce and try one of these creative condiments!

Murder Point Oysters Sliced serranos with a dash of hot sauce Point aux Pins Oysters Wasabi and pickled ginger Navy Cove Oysters Freshly grated lemon zest Shellbank Selects Traditional mignonette with shallot and red wine vinegar Mon Louis Oysters Smoked salmon roe Isle Dauphine Oysters Shaved Granny Smith apples marinated in apple cider vinegar Coden Beach Oyster Co. Sriracha and a squeeze of lemon Massacre Island Oysters Garlic and parsley chimichurri Turtleback Oysters Thai chili garlic sauce Photo by Elizabeth Gelineau 46 mobilebaymag.com | november 2017

TURTLEBACK OYSTERS

MURDER POINT

POINT AUX PINS OYSTERS

CODEN BEACH OYSTER CO.

NAVY COVE OYSTERS

MASSACRE ISLAND OYSTERS ISLE DAUPHINE

SHELLBANK SELECTS

MON LOUIS OYSTERS

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M

E R V ’ S O L G U T A ID E BEEF UP YOUR BUTCHER COUNTER CONFIDENCE AND COOKING KNOW-HOW WITH THE HELP OF FOUR BAY-AREA EXPERTS.

E

text by BRECK PAPPAS • photos by MATTHEW COUGHLIN meat provided by MOSLEY’S MEAT MARKET

New York Strip Filet (or tenderloin)

When boneless, this cut is also known as a New York strip, strip steak or Kansas City strip steak.

It’s best to eat a New York strip on the rare side, as it’s a leaner cut and has a tendency to dry out. Daron Mosley likes to crumble bleu cheese over his New York strip to add a different flavor.

When boneless, this cut is also known as a filet mignon. “But, to me, a filet on a porterhouse is better than a filet off a tenderloin because the surrounding bone and fat add even more flavor.” - Daron Mosley of Mosley’s Meats

Porterhouse — The large porterhouse steak contains two choice cuts of meat on one steak.

But cut further back on the short loin, the porterhouse has a thicker tenderloin cut than the T-bone.

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“With any steak, I never like to use a sugary marinade because it’ll be more likely to burn. I season my steaks with a little olive oil and Mosley’s dry rub and let it sit out for at least an hour before I put it over heat. I never put a cold steak on the grill.”

“ALWAYS ASK QUESTIONS. IF SOMEONE COMES IN AND DESCRIBES SOMETHING THEIR MOM USED TO MAKE, I CAN TELL THEM, ‘THIS IS WHAT YOU NEED, AND THIS IS HOW YOU COOK IT.’” — DARON MOSLEY, MOSLEY’S MEATS

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STEAKS

DARON MOSLEY OF MOSLEY’S MEATS breaks down the process of selecting and preparing the most popular cuts of steak.

T-BONE — This steak, which contains meat from two of the most prized cuts of beef, is named for the t-shaped bone running down its center.

“A T-bone is a really flavorful cut. These days, people tend to gravitate towards the boneless cuts, but a bone is always a good choice because it adds flavor.”

Like the porterhouse, a regular T-bone steak contains a New York strip and a filet (or tenderloin) cut. Compared to a porterhouse, however, a T-bone steak has a much smaller filet.

“The best way to cook a thick steak like the T-bone is to sear it right over the coals for about two minutes on each side, then switch to indirect heat for six to eight minutes.”

SO MANY REASONS TO STRUT OUR STUFF

Marbling

T-BONE

The white pattern of intramuscular fat on a cut of beef is known as marbling. “Many people make the mistake of looking for the reddest, brightest piece of meat, but what you want is a pale-colored steak TENSIXTYFIVE with marbling running throughout. MarblingCity leaders and innovators came together to create is flavor.”

TenSixtyFive music festival in a matter of days, showing the ingenuity of Mobile’s citizens and the care they have for the city. The event promises to impact Mobile for years.

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This steak, which contains meat from two of the most prized cuts of beef, is named for the t-shaped bone running down its center..

THE GROUNDS

Scott Tindle spearheaded the revival of the landmark venue, renovating the buildings to bring the out-of-date space into the modern era, which means Mobile gets to play host to exciting events, including the Gulf State Fair.

POP UP BROAD STREET A one-day business

fair developed by Terrance Smith of One Mobile, Pop Up Broad Street sets up shops in derelict buildings on Conti and Dauphin streets, thereby empowering Mobilians to directly support local vendors.

RIB-EYE — The rib-eye is one of the fattier cuts of steak, since it comes from the front quarter of the animal. But when it comes to steaks, fat equals flavor.

“If you like a well done or medium well steak, choose the rib-eye.

Since it is a fattier cut, you can cook it really slow without drying it out.”

The boneless rib-eye is a popular choice among steak eaters, but buyers have a couple other options: 1) Cowboy cut / club steak: a bone-in ribeye 2) Tomahawk steak (above): a rib-eye with large rib still attached “Since sirloin is a particularly lean cut, it’s really important to choose a good grade of meat. Again, look for a light-colored steak with marbling throughout.”

TOP SIRLOIN — “This is a hunting camp steak and a tailgate steak. It’s nice and thick and can feed a lot of people without breaking the bank.”

“A sirloin is so thick, if I have a big group over I’ll cook a big sirloin, slice it up and dish out some sautéed mushrooms on the side. You’ll want to sear a sirloin on high heat for a couple minutes then move to indirect heat: Since this steak doesn’t have a lot of fat, it can dry out if you try to cook it slow.” november 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 51

ROASTS

JOHN SHELKOFSKY, MEAT MANAGER AT ROUSES MARKET SPRING HILL, educates roast lovers on choos-

ing and preparing roasts for the oven.

OVEN ROAST — Looking for a roast that can be sliced thin to feed a hungry crowd? If so, your best bet is an oven roast, which is cooked uncovered in the oven without any added liquid. Only a few roasts are suitable for the oven, so it’s important to know your options.

“It’s hard to mess up a good prime rib. I like to inject mine with Tony Chachere’s Roasted Garlic and Herb Marinade and let it sit in the fridge overnight. Before cooking, sprinkle it with whatever seasonings you like and put it in the oven for 4 or 5 hours at 275 degrees. Finish by putting the oven on a low broil to brown the outside of it.”

Other popular oven roast include a tenderloin, a rump roast, a top sirloin roast and an eye-of-round roast.

Prime Rib Recognize this cut? The tomahawk rib-eye steak on page 47 was cut from a prime rib much like this one. Many people don’t realize that a rib-eye and a prime rib are the same meat — the only difference is that a rib-eye is cooked as a steak and the prime rib is cooked as a roast.

“WHEN BUYING A PRIME RIB, IT’S IMPORTANT TO GET AT LEAST A CHOICE GRADE OF MEAT. IF A CUT IS TOO LEAN, IT’S EASY TO OVERCOOK.” — JOHN SHELKOFSKY, ROUSES MARKETS 52 mobilebaymag.com | november 2017

Whether you’re dropping a pot roast in the crockpot or sliding it into the oven, CHUCK CHILDRESS OF FARM FRESH MEATS IN ROBERTSDALE has you covered.

POT ROAST — Roasts that come from the tough front quarter of the animal can be tenderized when cooked at a low temperature over a long period of time. A pot roast is cooked with liquid in a covered pan, either in the oven, on the stovetop or in a slow cooker and generally produces beef that shreds easily with a fork.

“I always recommend meat off the forequarter, such as the chuck and the shoulder roast, because it has more flavor and more marbling.”

“If I’m making a pot roast, I’ll brown it first in the skillet then put it in a crockpot at a low temperature with some beef broth for about 4.5 to 6 hours.”

Chuck Roast “This is your go-to choice for a carrot and potato pot roast. It’s a really marbled muscle that just falls apart when you take a fork and shred it.”

Other popular pot roasts include a shoulder roast and a brisket.

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TENDERLOIN

JOHNNY FAYARD WITH GREER’S MARKETS dishes out some advice on picking out that perfect beef tenderloin.

TENDERLOIN — Because it’s taken from a muscle that is rarely worked or stressed, the tenderloin is one of the most tender cuts of beef.

“You want to make sure you get a piece of meat that’s consistent in size and doesn’t taper. If it’s not very uniform in thickness, chances are it won’t cook evenly.”

“Before I put a tenderloin on the grill or in the oven, I’ll sear it on the stovetop with a little olive oil.

That’ll seal in those juices that you would otherwise lose on the grill or in the pan. That’s the secret.”

When cut into steaks, the tenderloin produces the coveted filet mignon.

“With a tenderloin, you’ll want to see cross marbling: streaks of white fat running north and south as well as east and west.”

“AFTER COOKING ANY PIECE OF MEAT, LET IT REST FOR ABOUT FIVE MINUTES BEFORE SERVING OR CARVING IN ORDER TO LET THE JUICES REDISTRIBUTE THROUGHOUT THE CUT.” — JOHNNY FAYARD, GREER’S MARKETS

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GROUND BEEF Depending on the cut of meat a butcher chooses to grind, the amount of fat within a portion of ground beef will vary — as will the price. Use the lean-to-fat ratio (i.e. 85% lean / 15% fat), which is printed on a package of ground beef, as a guide.

REGULAR GROUND BEEF (typically 75/25): This less expensive, juicier option is suitable for burgers, tacos and spaghetti sauce.

GROUND CHUCK (typically 80/20): Since ground chuck holds it shape while cooking, it’s just right for meatballs and meatloaf.

GROUND ROUND (typically 85/15): Perfect for dishes that call for a beefy flavor but don’t allow drippings to drain off, such as casseroles.

GROUND SIRLOIN (typically 90/10): Since sirloin is so lean, try it in low-fat meals where beef is just a complementary flavor and not the main star. Since lean beef can dry out quickly, it’s best used in soups or sauces.

Sold on beef? Then check out the bulk packs at Whiskey Ridge Cattle Company in Robertsdale. There are 19 packs to choose from, including the 400-pound Whole Darn Cow! option all the way down to their 12-pound sampler pack.

WHISKEY RIDGE CATTLE COMPANY / 27600 COUNTY RD. 64, ROBERTSDALE / 964-6328 SHOP.WHISKEYRIDGECATTLE.COM

RESOURCES FARM FRESH MEATS / 22057 HWY 59, ROBERTSDALE / 947-7385 / FARMFRESHMEATSAL.COM GREER’S DOWNTOWN MARKET 851 GOVERNMENT ST. / 432-0100 GREER’S MARKET / 75 S. SECTION ST. / 928-8029 / FOR MORE STORE LOCATIONS, VISIT GREERS.COM MOSLEY’S MEAT MARKET / 4678 AIRPORT BLVD. / 344-5764 MOSLEY’S FINE MEATS / 699 HWY 98, DAPHNE 626-1942 / MOSLEYSMEATS.COM ROUSES MARKET / 4350 OLD SHELL ROAD / 380-0020 ROUSES MARKET / 6729 SPANISH FORT RD., SPANISH FORT / 621-0552 / FOR MORE STORE LOCATIONS, VISIT ROUSES.COM november 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 55

TAKE IT OUTSIDE The ultimate roundup of café patios, courtyards and decks where you can enjoy the crisp fall weather while dining al fresco

text by JILL CLAIR GENTRY • photos by ELISE POCHÉ

RED OR WHITE, MOBILE

PHOTO BY DEVIN FORD

This Midtown Mobile wine and gourmet center has two distinct atmospheres: The bustling, energetic indoor bar area and the quieter, breezy patio that is reminiscent of a casual spot in the French countryside. Lush vines, flowers and shrubs twist together on the latticework fencing, providing a nice separation from busy Dauphin Street. Concrete tables, weathered steel chairs and string lights create the kind of setting where guests can feel comfortable in jeans and a T-shirt or a cocktail dress — absent of pretension but upscale enough for a fancy night out.

“We want people to enjoy a good bottle of wine, fresh, interesting food made with local ingredients, and a relaxed atmosphere,” says executive chef Arwen Rice.

Plan on dining small-plate style at Red or White. Various meat and cheese boards; rustic, wood-fired flatbread pizzas; and snacks such as bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with blueberry chevre or the cloud-like gougères with apple butter make the menu a dream for diners who love to mix, match, share and swap while sipping on a glass of wine ... or two.

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PHOTO BY SHANE RICE

SMALL PLATES AND BIG WINE SELECTION

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ABOVE LEFT TO RIGHT Flybar’s outdoor patio. Lunch is served at Spot of Tea. The sunsets are to die for at the appropriately named Sunset Pointe. Seafood lettuce wraps at Sunset Pointe are as fresh as the views. Beignets in the courtyard at Panini Pete’s in downtown Fairhope.

FLYBAR, FAIRHOPE CREATIVE COCKTAILS ON THE COURTYARD

Can it get much better than sipping an incredible cocktail in perfect fall weather in downtown Fairhope? Flybar, brought to life in 2016 by the owners of Dragonfly Foodbar, serves top-notch original drinks as well as craft beer and wine. The bar shares a courtyard with Dragonfly, and there’s also a covered space in the back overlooking Church Street with fun seating that promotes conversation and mingling. Every Monday, trivia coincides with Dragonfly’s nacho specials for “Nacho Average Trivia Night.”

From new twists on old classics to completely new concoctions, Flybar’s spirits offerings change with the seasons and evolve with the same unrelenting creativity that drives Dragonfly’s popular menu. Each drink is created using high-quality niche liquors and fresh, interesting ingredients such as edible flowers, muscadine wine, basil, pep-

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pers, tamarind juice, cold brew coffee and even kombucha.

Speaking of which, “boochtails” have become a mainstay of Flybar according to owner Brie Kerr. “People love them, and it’s something unique to us,” Kerr says. “They’re really refreshing.” One of the most popular is the lemon ginger boochtail, which combines Wild Magnolia kombucha with ginger liqueur, vodka and rosemary.

well-known favorite, and burger lovers can’t miss the Major League Melt, a half-pound patty served on buttery Texas toast with sautéed onions and tons of American cheese. Also worth trying is the Clipper, a warm and gooey smoked turkey sandwich loaded with bacon, sautéed mushrooms, Monterey Jack cheese and Heroes’ secret sauce stuffed between two slices of grilled sourdough.

HEROES, WEST MOBILE

SPOT OF TEA, DOWNTOWN

BRING THE KIDS

SPOT ON FOR BRUNCH, LUNCH OR TEA

With tall and secure fencing, a spacious play area with soft football turf and cornhole games, and seating that allows parents to watch their kids in addition to the big game, Heroes’ outdoor dining area is one of the most familyfriendly in the Port City.

The menu is sure to please every member of the family, too. Heroes’ adult menu is a step above normal sports bar fare. The spinach and crawfish dip is a

Dining at one of the sidewalk tables in front of the iconic downtown restaurant is a quintessential Mobile experience.

Passersby walk between the tables, families play in Cathedral Square and cars drift by on Dauphin Street. During peak times (Saturday and Sunday lunches), Spot of Tea is packed, but it’s worth the wait.

The menu is varied and unlike any other in the city, offering everything

PHOTO BY BLAIR MERRILLS

from a dainty cucumber sandwich to the decadent Eggs Cathedral — a grilled English muffin topped with a crab cake, scrambled eggs and a creamy seafood sauce with grouper and crawfish.

Can’t decide between breakfast and lunch? A popular choice is the sweetand-savory Monte Cristo sandwich.

Egg-battered sourdough bread sprinkled with powdered sugar is akin to French toast, while the inside of the sandwich is stuffed with a perfect blend of meats and cheeses — ham, turkey, Swiss, American and Monterey Jack — all melted together in a way that encourages one to eat the sandwich with a fork. Although this sandwich could just as easily be dipped in maple syrup, it’s served with honey mustard on the side.

Hashbrowns come with most of the entrees. Make sure to order them “deadly” to add bell peppers, banana peppers, ham, cheese, onions and sauerkraut.

Typical brunch drinks are available, and for tea lovers, the restaurant is named appropriately. There’s a nice se-

lection of black, green and herbals. The brew is served in a kettle that contains enough to refill an adorable teacup about three times. Try the mint with a squeeze of lemon.

SUNSET POINTE AT FLY CREEK MARINA

BEST VIEW AND FRESH SEAFOOD The name says it all — Sunset Pointe at Fly Creek Marina is the place to watch a sunset on the Bay. Every day as the sun goes down over the water, someone rings a big bell outside, glasses clink as people toast the day’s end and the busyness of the popular restaurant seems to slow to a halt as everyone takes in the moment. The restaurant is designed so everyone has a sundown view, but watching it from the modern outdoor seating area is spectacular.

The food at Sunset Pointe is equally satisfying. Built around fresh, highquality Gulf seafood and local produce,

the menu beautifully showcases the bounty of South Alabama. While chef specials and sides change based on what is in season, the core of the offerings has remained the same since the restaurant opened in 2014, featuring popular items, such as snapper throats, a seared tuna BLT and the Sunset Pointe burger. Hiding in the soup and salad section of the menu is one of Sunset Pointe’s best dishes — Eastern Shore Bouillabaisse. This intensely flavorful seafood soup combines Gulf shrimp, fish, mussels, leeks, fennel, tomato and fresh herbs in a white wine seafood broth that perfectly soaks into a piece of freshly baked crusty bread.

ED’S SHED, CAUSEWAY THE PLACE TO PLEASE OUT-OF-TOWN GUESTS

When folks come to visit Mobile, they’re likely to want two things: a view of the water and some delicious fried

november 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 59

ABOVE LEFT TO RIGHT Coffee and pastry at Cream and Sugar can’t be beat. Try lunch under the oaks at Two Sisters Bakery in Fairhope.

A few more options for dining al fresco: Cream and Sugar, Oakleigh

This neighborhood coffee shop is the perfect destination for a Saturday stroll. Reward yourself with a cake ball or bowl of gumbo and grits.

OK Bicycle Shop, Downtown

Have your pick of two cuisines (Asian or Mexican) and enjoy the sights and sounds of Lower Dauphin at the Bike Shop.

The Bluegill, Causeway

There’s room for everyone on this covered deck overlooking the marshes of the Mobile Delta.

Panini Pete’s, Fairhope

Savor a plate of powdered sugar-covered beignets on the shady, secluded patio.

Pinzone’s, Fairhope

Ambience, galore! The narrow alley under red tile awnings make you feel like you’re dining on a café patio in Italy.

Two Sisters, Fairhope

Sit and munch on traditional deli fare under the enormous oak tree that is the centerpiece of this quiet side porch.

Via Emilia, Mobile

The porch is just as sophisticated as the indoor dining room with iron tables and chairs covered in crisp red tablecloths.

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seafood. Ed’s Shed manages to provide both. Their outdoor patio shows off the beauty of the Bay and the skyline of the city. If you’re lucky, your visitors may even spot an alligator or two sunbathing in the shallow marshes surrounding the restaurant.

Ed’s features all the Mobile food favorites: Gumbo, grits, oysters, red beans and rice, turnip greens, shrimp, scallops and crab claws.

If friends or family happen to be in town on a Monday, don’t miss All-YouCan-Eat Mullet Mondays. Locally caught mullet is breaded in a cornmeal mix and fried, then served alongside French fries and garlic cheese grits for $10.95. Chow down on as much as you want!

Don’t miss Yo Mama’s Platter for a true family-style experience, where the entire clan can share hearty portions of just about everything on the menu, including a cup of gumbo and garlic cheese grits.

FAIRHOPE INN & RESTAURANT

DATE NIGHT AL FRESCO An evening in the courtyard at Fairhope Inn & Restaurant is about as romantic as it gets. String lights and candles give the space a charming glow, and there’s just something dreamy about a gazebo. Tables are spaced generously to provide privacy, and tall fencing and oak and palm trees surround the courtyard, insulating it from the bustle of downtown Fairhope.

The restaurant recently unveiled a new menu that’s simple, understated and refreshing, with fresh steaks, local seafood and familiar side dishes. A variety of made-from-scratch sauces customize each choice. Chef Tyler Kean’s creativity shines in the weekly specials and inventive small plates. A fun and satisfying option for date night dinner is the tomahawk rib-eye for two, served with veal demi-glace. MB

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JUMP START YOUR HOLIDAY SHOPPING

MB’S annual Gift Guide is here with all the best gifts from all your favorite local stores!

text and styling by MAGGIE LACEY • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

november 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 63

FOR HER 1

The beauty of nature in a form that never needs tending.

5

3 2

4

1. HUDSON+BLEECKER JEWELRY CASE

5. OYSTER SHELL TRINKET BOX

8. COCO LALA “NEBULA” EARRINGS

2. JULIE VOS BRACELET $280. Living Well.

6. HARVEST JEWELS PEACE AND FAITH

9. PEARL ON LEATHER CORD

$60. Chapel Farm Collection.

3. FAUX ORCHID WITH PIRIFORM VASE $15 for orchid, $60 for vase. Design House.

4. HANDMADE SHELL KEEPSAKE BOX $350. Chapel Farm Collection.

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$56. Chapel Farm Collection.

$339 for peace, $279 for faith, $399 for chain.

Sarah B. Atchison’s.

7. PAIGE GEMMEL COCKTAIL NAPKINS $66. Living Well.

$45. M.A. Simons.

$109. Chapel Farm Collection.

10. NEELY & CHLOE HORSEHAIR HANDBAG, $298.

Chapel Farm Collection.

11. SWIG INSULATED WINE GLASS $21. The Garage Studio.

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6

11

Love the detail on these hand-painted, brushed brass earrings made in Sylacauga, Alabama.

8

The shape of this bucket handbag is so current, and the horsehair fringe is kooky fun!

10 9

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FOR HIM

2

Not just another pair of sunglasses, these beauties were designed by three Alabama boys who live to fish and come with a lifetime warranty and replacement guarantee.

1

3

4

5

1. WOODEN CUTTING BOARD

5. SHOT GLASSES BY ALCOHOLS DEFENSE

9. MAKE LIGHT WORK MULTI-USE TOOL

2. HOOK LINE AND SINKER KNIFE

6. SWIG INSULATED TUMBLER

10. KING OF THE GRILL PORTABLE GRILL

3. BREAKLINE MARINER SUNGLASSES

7. DAUPHIN ISLAND HAT $20. Shoptheisland.com.

11. THE OYSTER BED FOR OVEN AND GRILL

$69. Sarah B. Atchison’s.

$18. The Garage Studio.

$160. Breaklinepolarized.com.

4. FISH PAINTING BY EUGENIA FOSTER $225. Ashland Gallery.

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$28. M.A. Simons.

$29. The Garage Studio.

8. BEAR WALKER HANDMADE LONGBOARD $250. Bearwalker.com.

$17. The Garage Studio.

$44. The Garage Studio. $80. Theoysterbed.com.

Local wood carver Bear Walker takes skateboards to a whole new level, describing them as “art that makes you an agent of motion.�

8

6

7

9

11 The Oyster Bed encourages users to buy pre-shucked oysters for baking and grilling, ensuring that shells go back to the fishermen and ultimately back into our estuaries. The result: more oysters, more reefs, more land.

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FOR FOODIES

2

Small-batch mustard on tap?

Who knew! The Happy Olive is one of just two sommelier-rated mustard makers in the country!

1

3

4

8

6

The only thing better than a pint of Haagen-Dazs is a pint given as a gift in a silver or gold ice cream container!

7

5

1. BEN & LAEL COPPER LADLE

4. SOUTHERN GENTLEMAN’S KITCHEN

7. BACON JAM BY TBJ GOURMET

2. SMALL-BATCH HANDCRAFTED MUSTARD

5. ICE CREAM CONTAINER BY NIMA OBEROI

8. PULLED PORK MEAT CLAWS

3. BEN & LAEL COPPER BAR SPOON

6. STAINLESS WINE GLASS

$250. Chapel Farm Collection.

$20 in local pottery crock. The Happy Olive. $259. Chapel Farm Collection.

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$32. The Garage Studio. $60. Living Well.

$14 each. Living Well.

$13. The Garage Studio. $18 The Garage Studio.

FOR FRIENDS 2

1 3

8 These glass ornaments are hand-blown by local glass artist Freddie Blache.

4

6

5

7

1. URBAN AGRICULTURE PLANT IN A SACK

4. TACKY SWEATER COOKIES

7. SMALL SQUARES WITH MIGHTY WORDS

2. POTTERY NATIVITY

5. LAFCO CANDLE IN OLIVE BLOSSOM

8. HAND-BLOWN GLASS ORNAMENT

3. WISHBONE TCHOTCHKE

6. PRAYERS ON THE SIDE PAINTING

$19. The Visitation Shop. $27. The Visitation Shop. $15. Living Well.

$5 each. EllenJAY Stylish Events + Sweets. $45. Design House.

$24. The Garage Studio. $20. Ashland Gallery.

$43. The Visitation Shop.

november 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 69

FOR KIDS 3 5 2

4

A page for every county in Alabama in honor of the bicentennial celebration!

1

9

6 Inspire young girls to dream big with 100 stories of extraordinary women.

8

1. LOOG KIDS GUITAR

4. AMAZING ALABAMA COLORING BOOK

7. PLUS PLUS BUILDING BLOCKS

2. CAT SPARKLE HEADPHONES

5. KIDS CHOPSTICKS $10. Big City Toys.

8. BOY’S MARLIN BELT $11. Holiday.

3. KEYCHAIN

6. GOODNIGHT STORIES FOR REBEL GIRLS $35. Big City Toys.

9. BUNNIES BY THE BAY PELICAN $28. Big City Toys.

$80. ChapelFarm Collection. $33. Holiday.

$28-50. Collective.

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$10. Books-a-Million and other local retailers.

$8/tube. Big City Toys.

RESOURCES ASHLAND GALLERY 2321 OLD SHELL ROAD. 479-3548.

BIG CITY TOYS 4356 OLD SHELL ROAD. 308-8997.

CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION 19130 SCENIC HIGHWAY 98, FAIRHOPE. 929-1630.

COLLECTIVE 4513 OLD SHELL ROAD. 656-6368.

DESIGN HOUSE 3607 OLD SHELL ROAD. 607-6310.

ELLENJAY STYLISH EVENTS + SWEETS 2158 AIRPORT BLVD. 219-7406.

HAPPY OLIVE 314 DE LA MARE AVE, FAIRHOPE. 929-0711.

HOLIDAY 4513 OLD SHELL ROAD. 342-4911.

LIVING WELL 25 S SECTION STREET, FAIRHOPE. 929-3255.

M.A. SIMONS 2151 OLD SHELL ROAD. 479-4350.

SARAH B. ATCHISON’S 2602 OLD SHELL ROAD. 473-4086.

THE GARAGE STUDIO 17070 SCENIC HIGHWAY 98, POINT CLEAR. 928-3474.

THE VISITATION SHOP 2300 SPRINGHILL AVE. 471-4106.

OPENING PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT TASSEL NECKLACE, $49, THE VISITATION SHOP. MONOGRAMMED HAND TOWEL, $10, THE VISITATION SHOP. COCKTAIL NAPKINS, $66, LIVING WELL. PONYHAIR CLUTCH, $115, M.A. SIMONS. HAND PAINTED BRASS EARRINGS, $45, M.A. SIMONS. BOY'S CHECK SHIRT, $40, HOLIDAY.

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ARCHIVES

The Story of Old Mobile For more than 20 years, Frances Beverly, born in 1865, recorded the history and quirks of life in the Port City of yesteryear.

Here, get a look at her classic manuscripts. intro by BRECK PAPPAS • text by FR ANCES BEVERLY

D

“

ear Mrs. Beverly,” begins the 1938 letter from the Works Progress Administration of Alabama.

“Referring to our effort to compile material for the proposed Almanac for Alabamians, 1938, the editor who will have charge of this assignment has prepared a series of suggestions which you will find helpful.”

An almanac, the editor suggests, should include the following: “Odd and interesting bits of history not usually known,” “laws and ordinances of unusual interest,” “weather signs and lore and planting superstitions of farmers,” “catchy and entertaining

rhymes and phrases,” and so forth.

What that editor didn’t know was that Beverly was way ahead of him. At the time this letter was written, 73-year-old Frances Beverly had already spent 8 years researching and writing about the history, customs and oddities of Mobile. Born in 1865, Beverly came from a line of newspapermen and writers.

She was a relative of writer and naturalist William Bartram, and her grandfather served as the dramatic critic for the Mobile Register in the 1840s. Beverly herself worked for the Louisville Courier Journal and the Atlanta Constitution before settling in Mobile at 1675 Government Street.

For more than 20 years, she toiled away at her desk in Mobile, intent on publishing what she called, “The Story of Old Mobile.” The result of this project, which is now housed at the University of South Alabama Archives, is about 1,200 documents — a fragile treasure trove of Mobile history and anecdotes, all written in Beverly’s witty, informative and sharply sarcastic voice.

(In reference to an old term no longer used in Mobile, Beverly quips, “Whoever was guilty of inventing such a name deserved expert guillotine service.”) The article titles alone invite curiosity: “When a Girl Married in 1860,” “How Mobile Delivered Milk in 1880,” “A Mobile Girl in an English Prison,” “Mobilians are Suckers,” “The Manly Art of Dueling.”

Although there are indications that Beverly self-published at least some of her work, the project would never reach the conclusion she always imagined. Beverly died in Mobile in 1954, leaving behind piles of manuscripts hidden from the very audience whose lore and customs she so tirelessly documented for posterity — that is, until now. november 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 75

Frances Beverly ...

On Good Manners “In the early part of 1880, the streets of Mobile were not in a good condition, especially in rainy weather, and often it was necessary to walk several blocks to find a place to cross. There was no drainage, and the gutters overflowed, and sometimes the water would stand at a depth of six inches at the crossings.

“After a very hard rain, a lady was standing at the corner of Claiborne and Dauphin streets, looking helplessly up and down as far as she could see, hoping to find a place that she could get across. The body of water was six inches deep and about three feet wide; it was impossible to jump across, as she had on a new pair of handmade shoes which had cost her ten dollars, she could not wade across. She was disgusted and dismayed. Anything that she could do would spell disaster to the shoes.

Suddenly, she felt herself lifted in the air and deposited on the other side of the street, and her rescuer, without turning his head, had gone around the corner and disappeared in the crowd.

“In those days it was the ultimo thule of every girls’ ambition to have a pair of McAleer shoes, and no doubt the man who saw the lady ruefully eyeing her feet and the water knew from his own experience with girls that only a pair of the McAleer creation could have caused such distress.”

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“Even as late as 1900, no lady would have been guilty of such indelicacy as even surreptitiously powdering her nose on a street car; and it has always been a subject of wonder what the ladies of the 1860s would think if they could see their granddaughters of today, going to business on the street car with nail file and scissors, do a manicure, then with mirror, powder, rouge and lipstick do a complete act of exterior decoration, utterly oblivious of the presence of the other passengers. And as a grand finale, off comes the hat and a vigorous combing of the hair, and the young woman is ready to get off at Royal Street to go to her job, not in the least concerned that her grandmother is writhing in her grave in Magnolia Cemetery, at what she would have called indecent conduct.””

On the Homes of Mobile in the 1870s “There were many who had portraits of children, but these pictures always hung over the piano … This was a very pathetic picture, and all of the old ladies had tears

in their eyes when they showed them to you; two such loving children were always a touching sight.”

“The photograph album was on the other side of the table, filled with pictures of solemn-faced ladies and gentlemen with long whiskers, whose heads were held straight and stiff by an implement similar to the rest on the back of the dentists’ chair. These two books were of the most invaluable aid in promoting conversation, and without them many an evening would have been spent in deadly silence.”

“The footstools, which went by the highfalutin name of ‘ottomans,’ were in every parlor, and in all kinds of unlooked-for places, and the horrible things would skid from under you, and leave you a sprawling mass in the middle of the floor, just when you thought you were making a most graceful exit or entrance.

“In the years gone by, before the

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invention of the telephone, the automobile, and the introduction of the night club and the movies, Mobile was entirely different from the Mobile of today, as far as the home was concerned.

A man’s home was his castle, and it was a woman’s pride and delight. At present, it is just a place to go, when nobody asks you to go somewhere else.”

On Mothers and Daughters “Mothers in those days were very much more in the habit of blowing daughters’ horns than they are today. One mother of two very popular girls in the 1880s was a most marvelous cook, and every time a man came to the house, she would say, ‘Oh, yes, you just must sit down for a minute, Mary or Sallie has made the most delicious pie that I ever saw and you must have some of it.’ Mary and Sallie would not have known a pie plate from a punch board.”

On Backyards in Mobile from 1880 to 1920 “Most of the backyards in Mobile are very attractive, or at least they begin that way, but if your neighbor has a dog who insists upon making your pansy bed his repository for surplus bones and the children next door race around concrete walks and tumble off their bicycles and snap off the branches of your valuable azalea bushes and crush your narcissi beds to a pulp, it is rather discouraging.”

On Strange Mobile Customs “A very funny custom prevailed for years in Mobile and aroused no end of speculation and wide-eyed wonder.

Whenever ladies went shopping to buy any kind of cotton goods, they always asked for a small sample, out from the original bolt of goods, especially if it were highly colored. This little sliver was put in the mouth of the prospective buyer and chewed vigorously for quite a while. After this intensive chewing, the sample was laid across a forefinger, and if it showed no sign of loss of color, the verdict was reached that ‘it would not run,’ then the purchase was made.”

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“The custom of giving ‘lagniappe’ is strictly a custom of Mobile and New Orleans, which meant that each purchaser of food stuffs, particularly, received a cooky [sic] in a baker shop, or an apple in a grocery or a stick of candy in a drug store. This was a great joy to children, and there was no trouble in those days to get a child to go on an errand. Grown-ups, when they paid a bill, of any considerable amount, were always given a box of candy or a bag of fruit, with the most profound bow and appreciative thanks … Times have changed; when one pays a bill now, the money is received with a grunt or a snort and an air of disgust at having to wait until the first of the month to get it.”

“People were warned to remain indoors after the sun went down and to keep the windows and doors closed. Each family had so strongly imbibed the idea of the deadliness of night air that as late as 1880 only the most reckless would have a window in a bedroom open at night. Those who ventured to do such a foolhardy thing were thought to be flirting with death, and were furtively watched by relatives and friends, for signs of some deadly malady… One very solicitous father used to take a candle and hold it over the bed of his son and heir, to see if any wind could touch him.”

On Funny Mobile Children “With an air of importance, little Donald, the small grandson of a prominent real estate man in Mobile, announced to his Sunday School teacher, ‘Miss Minnie, the Devil is dead.’

“Miss Minnie looked surprised and asked, ‘Why do you think so, Donald?’ “‘Oh, I know it, Miss Minnie, because Daddy said so,’” replied the child. ‘We were standing on the street looking at a funeral yesterday, and he said, “Poor devil, he’s dead at last.”’”

 Are you a relative of Frances Beverly’s, or are you familiar with her life and work?

Let us know! Email bpappas@pmtpublishing.com to give us the scoop.

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HISTORY

The Pinecone War of 1815 As the War of 1812 came to a close, a group of bored soldiers stationed on Dauphin Island waged a war all their own.

text by JOHN S. SLEDGE illustrations by COLLEEN COMER

T

housands of them splashed ashore on the Gulf side of Dauphin Island on February 6, 1815, resplendent in red coats, laced pelisses and highland plaid. They were the officers and men of the British army only recently trounced by General Andrew Jackson’s multicultural force par excellence at New Orleans. Their overall commander, Vice-Admiral Alexander Inglis Cochrane, had not yet learned that the War of 1812 had officially ended by treaty the previous December and was determined to salvage something from his Louisiana disaster. To that end, he moved his forces east to Dauphin Island, quickly captured Fort Bowyer on Mobile Point (where Fort Morgan stands today) and made plans to take Mobile before attacking New Orleans overland. It was not to be. A Jamaican brig brought news of peace, and redcoats lined the beach cheering lustily that the whole bloody

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business was finally done. During the following weeks, they settled into an island idyll while their high command negotiated prisoner exchanges and waited for the treaty to be formalized.

Young men with time on their hands are capable of extraordinarily energetic and silly enterprises, and so it was with these Brits. Two decades later, John Henry Cooke, a former captain in the 43rd Light Infantry, warmly remembered the good-natured pinecone war that ensued with his comrades encamped among the pine trees. Given the British army’s rigid class distinctions, only the officers and subalterns took part, several dozen men in all from at least six regiments. They divided themselves into two forces, built forts and did battle using seven-inch-long pinecones that had been soaked in water. According to Cooke, these made formidable missiles, which “when thrown with force and

exactitude, gave and left marks on the physiognomy of an ugly character.” He spoke from experience, “having received four black eyes at different times during the various onsets and skirmishes.”

Operating under the glorified title of Commander-in-chief, Cooke directed the 7th Fusiliers and his own regiment.

He chose a natural circle of pines about 30 yards across as their fort site, and the men drove small saplings into the sand between the trees. They then wove smaller branches and vines between these uprights to make a wickerwork wall about seven feet high, stuck leafy branches into the wall’s exterior to give it a woodsy appearance and dug a wide, shallow ditch around the perimeter.

Inside the circle, they pushed up a sand fire step, along which they stacked pinecones “after the manner of cannon balls on the ramparts of more scientific fortresses.” They could then stand atop

this berm, with the wicker wall protecting them from the chest down, and rain pinecones on their foes. In the center of the enclosure were a fire pit, a rude table, some stumps for seats, a tent and a few huts. Over all fluttered a blue and white silk flag affixed to a stripped pine tree.

At night, Cooke and his fellows relaxed their labors and gathered around the wooden table, feasting on oysters and making “merry over our cups, the great fire blazing brightly.” Their comfortable redoubt more resembled “the resort of banditti,” he chuckled, rather “than the abode of officers once so starched, stiff, and erect on England’s parade-ground.”

He dubbed it Fort Anselmo.

Three hundred yards distant beneath a yellow and green banner stood the similarly constructed Fort Impracticable, occupied by the 85th and 40th Regiments of Foot, the 95th Rifles and 93rd Highlanders. Behind

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their bastion stretched a shady allée known as Pall Mall, “after the famous lounging street of that name in England’s overgrown metropolis.” The men of Fort Impracticable jealously guarded this asset, not least because the women who had accompanied the fleet — a few wives and eligible daughters — liked to congregate there. Not surprisingly, it was at Pall Mall that the war began.

In an effort to negotiate equal access to the thoroughfare, Cooke sent forward “some of our light troops.” They bumped into a party from the 85th, and after brief “parleying,” the situation deteriorated. Cooke quoted with great delight from the battlefield dispatches he had received during the pinecone war, which read exactly like the formal military reports of the day penned under far more serious circumstances.

“Sir,” began one after this initial scuffle, “I beg leave to report to your Excellency the particulars of the action with the enemy this morning before your arrival.”

According to the dispatch writer, the enemy soldiers were well supplied with pinecones in canvas haversacks and “advanced to attack us. We allowed them to come close to us before we opened fire, which did great execution in the enemy’s ranks.” Cooke’s men followed their barrage with a charge, laughing and throwing cones, “and the enemy gave way in every direction.”

After that brief battle, each side improved its fort and launched various attacks and sorties. Cooke led one such

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assault against Fort Impracticable “with the united forces of the royal fusileers and the officers of the dismounted squadron of the fourteenth light dragoons.” His men were surprised by a regiment that had not theretofore issued a formal “declaration of war” and were driven back under a perfect shower of cones. This was the height of bad form, and Cooke sent a note demanding advance warning of any future attacks.

The “military secretary” of the 85th arrogantly responded, “It is our fixed determination to attack at any moment after the stipulated hour which may suit our convenience; and the only weapon with which we shall expect to meet is the pine-apple.”

In March, Vice-Adm. Cochrane finally announced their departure from American shores. Cooke sadly wrote that “our petty warfare was now about to finish.” It had all been great fun, even if not completely harmless. Despite “sorely battered heads,” Cooke swore that he “did not know of a single instance of any angry feeling or an ill word having passed between the champions of either side.”

And so they hove away in their warships and transports, those hardened men who had fought from Salamanca, Spain, to the Plains of Gentilly. But as their Dauphin Island pinecone war proved, they were still little boys at heart. MB  John S. Sledge is currently at work on “Coursing the Furrowed Blue: A Maritime History of the Gulf.”

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NOV. / DEC. 2017 ON STAGE & EXHIBITS PG. 88 • DECEMBER HIGHLIGHTS PG. 90

ALABAMA PECAN FESTIVAL

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

NOVEMBER HIGHLIGHTS

november 3

november 8 - 14

november 9 - 11

Oyster Cook-off at The Hangout

World Food Championships

Christmas Jubilee

6 p.m. - 11 p.m. Celebrity and local chefs come together to indulge in all things oyster.

Calling all foodies! Indulge in delicious regional fare at one of several food and beverage events. Activities include: the Main Event, the VIP Lounge, a low country boil, World Food Games, food trucks, Around the World in 100 Bites and the Yacht Club Progressive Dinner Party. Some festivities are free while others have an admission fee.

11 a.m. - 8 p.m. Th, 9 a.m. - 9 p.m. F, 9 a.m. 5 p.m. Sa. Stock up on gifts for everyone on your Christmas list. Tickets: $5 - $12.

THE HANGOUT • HANGOUTCOOKOFF.COM

november 3 - 5 Alabama Pecan Festival 5 p.m. F, 9 a.m. Sa, 11 a.m. Su. Enjoy rides, food, face-painting, arts & crafts, jewelry, a classic country and Western show, a Sunday gospel show and more.

TILLMAN’S CORNER • 401-5555 ALABAMAPECANFESTIVAL.COM

november 4 - 22

THE WHARF • WORLDFOODCHAMPIONSHIPS.COM

november 9 - 12 Fairhope Film Festival

9 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. Head out to Bellingrath Gardens and Home for the nation’s largest outdoor display of mums. Tickets: $7 $20.50, children under 5 are free.

Film lovers flock to Fairhope for this annual film fest. Selections include foreign films, documentaries, features and shorts. The festival also includes screenings with directors, actors and screenwriters, both in person and via live electronic transmission.

BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME • 973-2217 BELLINGRATH.ORG

VARIOUS LOCATIONS • FAIRHOPE FAIRHOPEFILMFESTIVAL.ORG

Fall Cascading Mums Display

JUNIOR LEAGUE OF MOBILE JUNIORLEAGUEMOBILE.ORG

november 10 - january 1 Christmas Nights of Lights 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m. Drive through a magical spectacle of Christmas cheer at Hank Aaron Stadium. Tune radios to the designated radio station to hear Christmas music timed to the lights. Admission: $6.

HANK AARON STADIUM CHRISTMASNIGHTSOFLIGHTS.COM

november 11 Veterans Day Celebration 6 a.m. - 8 p.m. Honor the nation’s veterans.

Stay for a 7 p.m. Mobile Pops show.

USS ALABAMA BATTLESHIP MEMORIAL PARK USSALABAMA.COM

 To have your event included in the online or print edition of Mobile Bay Magazine, email calendar@pmtpublishing.com.

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november 3 Bayou Bash 6 p.m. - 10 p.m. Enjoy live music, delicious bites and live and silent auctions at this All Saints Church event supporting local outreach agencies. Tickets: $35.

ALL SAINTS CHURCH • 151 S. ANN ST. • 438-2492

november 16 Tree Lighting Celebration 5:30 p.m. - 8 p.m. Have a jolly good time as the City of Fairhope lights its Christmas tree.

DOWNTOWN FAIRHOPE • COFAIRHOPE.COM

november 17 Art Soup 6 p.m. - 9 p.m. Take in local art, enjoy swing music and delight in tasty dishes at a fundraiser for local homeless service groups. Tickets: $25.

AZALEA MANOR • 751 DAUPHIN ST. • 379-0564 ARTSOUPMOBILE.ORG

november 17 The Lighting of Bienville Trees 5 p.m. - 7 p.m. Kick off the season with the merry market, live music, Santa and more.

DOWNTOWN MOBILE • NCSMOBILE.ORG

november 18 Humming Star Alpaca Farm Day 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Learn all about alpacas, watch fleece spinning demonstrations and shop for items crafted by local artists.

Admission: $5 per vehicle.

19700 BLUEBERRY LANE • 214-8224

november 18 Mobile International Festival 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Indulge in cuisine, crafts and more from various cultures.

MOBILE CIVIC CENTER MOBILEINTERNATIONALFESTIVAL.ORG

november 24 - december 31 Magic Christmas in Lights 5 p.m. More than 3 million lights and 15 scenes make this spectacle a Port City tradition. Admission: $7.50 - $24.

BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME • 973-2217 BELLINGRATH.ORG

november 23 - 24 Poarch Creek Indians Pow Wow Experience the traditions of the Poarch Creek Indians at their annual pow wow. Highlights include traditional dances and arts & crafts.

POARCH BAND OF CREEK INDIANS • ATMORE POARCHCREEKINDIANS.ORG

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THE AVETT BROTHERS. PHOTO BY CRACKERFARM

ON STAGE & EXHIBITS

through november 12 “Peter and the Starcatcher” 7:30 p.m. F / Sa. 2 p.m. Su. Sailors, pirates, British naval officers, orphans and others come to life in this magical prequel to “Peter Pan.” Tickets: $10 - $20.

JOE JEFFERSON PLAYHOUSE • 471-1534 JOEJEFFERSONPLAYERS.COM

through january 7 Curious George: Let’s Get Curious!

Explore the world of the beloved children’s book and TV series character Curious George. Play around in the apartment building, construction site, city park and more.

THE GULF COAST EXPLOREUM • EXPLOREUM.COM

through january 7 5 Mobile Artists Get to know the works of five artists who have been an integral part of the Port City’s art scene and continue to inspire the next generation of artists from our region.

MOBILE MUSEUM OF ART MOBILEMUSEUMOFART.COM

through january 21 Posing Beauty in African American Culture Explore the works of various artists in this exhibit that explores how African and African American beauty have been portrayed in a range of media platforms.

MOBILE MUSEUM OF ART MOBILEMUSEUMOFART.COM

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november 8 Ray Lamontagne 6 p.m. Doors open. 7 p.m. Show starts. The Grammy Award-winning artist returns to the Port City. Tickets: $46 - $66.

THE MOBILE SAENGER MOBILESAENGER.COM

november 9 - 19 Frank Brown International Songwriters’ Festival Approximately 200 songwriters from across the world will make their way to stages throughout the Panhandle and Baldwin County as a part of the Frank Brown International Songwriters’ Festival.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS • ORANGE BEACH FRANKBROWNSONGWRITERS.COM

november 18 - 19 Contrast (Beethoven/Gershwin) 7:30 p.m. Sa. 2:30 p.m. Su. Explore the similarities and differences between two masters at the Mobile Symphony’s Beethoven & Blue Jeans event. Tickets: $15 - $75.

MOBILE SYMPHONY MOBILESYMPHONY.ORG

november 30 The Avett Brothers 7 p.m. Doors open. 8 p.m. Show starts.

The eclectic band brings songs from their newest album “True Sadness” to the stage. Tickets: $56 - $67.

THE MOBILE SAENGER MOBILESAENGER.COM

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BOTANICAL GARDENS HOLIDAY SALE

DECEMBER HIGHLIGHTS

december 1 Fairhope’s Magical Christmas Parade 7 p.m. Embrace the spirit of the season as Fairhope’s Christmas Parade hits the streets.

DOWNTOWN FAIRHOPE • COFAIRHOPE.COM

december 1 Michael Carbonaro Live!

6:30 p.m. Doors open. 7:30 p.m. Show starts.

Magician Michael Carbonaro brings his signature blend of bizarre antics, audience interaction, hilarious video clips and mind-blowing magic to a Mobile stage.

THE MOBILE SAENGER MOBILESAENGER.COM

december 1 - 2 Botanical Gardens Holiday Sale 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. F. 9 a.m. - 2 p.m. Sa. Unique poinsettias and seasonal plants are on sale at this joint venture between the Mobile Botanical Gardens and Mobile County Master Gardeners.

MOBILE BOTANICAL GARDENS MOBILEBOTANICALGARDENS.ORG

december 2 Let It Snow 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. Hear live musical performances, listen to Mrs. Claus read stories, and play in the snow.

DOWNTOWN FOLEY • 943-1300

december 6 “A Christmas Carol” 6:30 p.m. Doors open. 7:30 p.m. Show starts.

The beloved Dickens’ Christmas story brings familiar characters — Ebenezer Scrooge, Bob Cratchit, Marley, and of course, Tiny Tim — ­­ to life. Tickets: $20.

PLAYHOUSE IN THE PARK PLAYHOUSEINTHEPARK.ORG THE MOBILE SAENGER • MOBILESAENGER.COM

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HOME FREE: A COUNTRY CHRISTMAS TOUR 2017

december 9 - 10 Mobile’s Musical Christmas 7:30 p.m. Sa. 2:30 p.m. Su. Experience a glamorous holiday concert by the Mobile Symphony accompanied the Mobile Singing Children. Tickets: $15 - $75.

MOBILE SYMPHONY • MOBILESYMPHONY.ORG

december 14 The Revivalists 8 p.m. Show starts. The New Orleans alt-rock band takes the stage. Tickets: $27.50 - $49.50.

THE MOBILE SAENGER • MOBILESAENGER.COM

december 20 Home Free: A Country Christmas Tour 2017 7 p.m. Doors open. 8 p.m. Show starts. The 5-man band with their brand of all-vocal, no-instrument music mixes with their unique brand of humor. Tickets: $19 - $79.

THE MOBILE SAENGER • MOBILESAENGER.COM

december 23 The Dollar General Bowl 6 p.m. Nationally televised on ESPN, the Dollar General Bowl features some incredible college athletes hoping to impress during the last game of the football season. Various events will be held throughout the week leading up to the big game. Check the website for details on individual events.

LADD-PEEBLES STADIUM DOLLARGENERALBOWL.COM

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ASK MCGEHEE text by TOM MCGEHEE

Is it true that a Mobilian helped complete the Panama Canal?

LEFT Gorgas observes the construction work at the canal zone in Panama. PHOTO FROM THE GORGAS FAMILY COLLECTION, UA MUSEUMS. RIGHT A 1914 portrait of Surgeon General William Crawford Gorgas.

When construction of the Panama Canal began, the local population was afflicted with both yellow fever and malaria at epidemic proportions. An 1880s attempt by the French to construct the canal had gone bankrupt after nine miserable years and 20,000 deaths due to rampant disease.

Mobile vs. Mosquito

As early as 1848, Mobile physician Josiah Nott had published a theory linking mosquitoes to deadly yellow fever outbreaks across the South. He did not get far with his conjecture, and it did him no good in September of 1853 as he watched helplessly while four of his eight children succumbed to the disease.

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Two different British doctors in the last decades of the 19th century concluded that the mosquito was the culprit in spreading disease in India, earning Sir Patrick Manson the dubious sounding title of “Father of Tropical Disease.”

But it was an American physician who used the force of the U.S. Army to fight the bloodsucking parasites and allow the Panama Canal to become a reality. William Crawford Gorgas, who would eventually serve as the U.S. Surgeon General, was born in Toulminville. His father, Josiah Gorgas, a native of Pennsylvania, was with the U.S. Army serving as commandant of the Mount Vernon Arsenal. He had married the daughter of John Gayle, a former governor of Alabama who had moved his law practice to Mobile. Amelia Gayle

Gorgas was living with her parents when her first child William was born in 1854.

Two years later, the Gorgas family made a series of moves with the Army until the outbreak of the Civil War. Josiah resigned his commission and joined the Confederate Army where he achieved the rank of Brigadier General — quite a feat for a Pennsylvanian. At war’s close, he became involved in the Brierfield Ironworks just south of Montevallo.

University of the South

When the ironworks failed in 1869, Josiah Gorgas and his family moved to Sewanee, Tennessee, where he was appointed vice chancellor of the University of the South. Here, his eldest son received his undergraduate degree

in 1875 before entering medical school at New York’s Bellevue Hospital.

William had longed to enter the military, despite his father’s warnings against it. Unable to get an appointment to West Point, he was selected by the Medical Corps of the U.S. Army after graduating medical school in 1879. On assignment in Texas, the young doctor survived a bout of yellow fever, which may have inspired his later quest against the disease.

Stationed in Havana, Cuba, at the end of the Spanish-American War, Dr. Gorgas sought to end yellow fever and malaria outbreaks by eliminating the mosquito. Buildings were fumigated, windows were screened, and swamps and ponds were drained. Within a relatively short period of time, the yellow fever outbreaks became history, and the cases of malaria were greatly reduced.

Panama Bound

Gorgas arrived in Panama in 1904 as efforts for the planned canal were underway. Arguing that a successful canal could only be built by healthy workers, Gorgas successfully won over an economically minded Roosevelt administration and eradicated the mosquito on a grand scale. The number of deaths and cases of fever declined dramatically.

Gorgas was named president of the American Medical Association in 1908 and, in 1911, was offered the presidency of the University of Alabama. Calling this offer a great honor, he said he had to decline in order to be on hand for the completion of the canal which occurred in 1914. That same year, he was appointed Surgeon General of the U.S. Army. By the time he retired in 1918, this son of Mobile had received honorary degrees from seven universities and won countless honors from foreign countries before being hired as a consultant for the Rockefeller Foundation.

In 1920, after traveling extensively through Africa and Europe, Gorgas arrived in London where he suffered a stroke. King George V visited the doctor in his hospital room where he knighted the Alabama native. William C. Gorgas never recovered from the stroke and died at the age of just 66. After a full military procession and funeral at St. Paul’s Cathedral, he was buried in Arlington National Cemetery. MB november 2017 | mobilebaymag.com 93

IN LIVING COLOR

A Slice of History Original photo from the Erik Overbey Collection, The Doy Leale McCall Rare Book and Manuscript Library, University of South Alabama • colorization by Dynamichrome Limited

An unidentified baby snacks on a slice of bread from the Malbis Bakery in this snapshot by Erik Overbey. Although the exact date of this image in unknown, similar photographs at the bakery were taken in the 1920s and 1930s.

Owned by Jason Malbis, the Malbis Bakery was incorporated in 1925 and was never actually located in the Baldwin County town of Malbis.

In fact, the large business stood on South Broad Street and stretched to Washington Avenue. As noted by historian Tom McGehee, “In its heyday, the facility had equipment capable of producing 100,000 pounds of bread a day as well as 85,000 pounds of cookies and crackers.”

Do you know the identity of the Malbis Bakery baby? If so, let us know!

Email bpappas@pmtpublishing.com.

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