Mobile Bay Magazine - November 2020

Mobile Bay November 2020

THE LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE FOR MOBILE AND BALDWIN COUNTIES

100,000

MILES OF STREAMS

FLOW INTO MOBILE BAY

AT HOME WITH CATERERS

BRADY & ROB BERGLIN

DIG INTO THE FLAVOR OF THE GULF COAST WITH THREE TOP FEMALE CHEFS AND THEIR GO-TO RECIPES

MURDER POINT

HOLIDAY

GIFT GUIDE

5 STEPS TO A LUXURIOUS OYSTER FEAST

FOR EVERYONE ON YOUR LIST

ARWEN RICE executive chef Red or White

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CONTENTS | VOLUME XXXVI / ISSUE 11

NOVEMBER 2020

42

BRADY BERGLIN GATHERS MEMORIES AND ART AT HER FAIRHOPE HOME. PHOTO BY JUSTIN CORDOVA

Party on the Half Shell Oyster entertaining on the go, with a little help from the fine folks at Murder Point Oysters

46

The Story House Rob and Brady Berglin discuss the inspiration behind their eclectic and charming Fairhope home

54

2020 Gifts Shop local and gift thoughtfully with this year’s holiday list for the entire family

 Visit mobilebaymag.com/groom to see a collection of rare photos from the life of Winston Groom.

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CONTENTS | VOLUME XXXVI / ISSUE 11

NOVEMBER 2020

18 ON OUR COVER Arwen Rice, executive chef at Mobile’s Red or White Wine & Gourmet Center, keeps a hearty supply of firewood on hand for the restaurant’s wood-fired oven, roaring each day.

22 34

PHOTO BY MATTHEW COUGHLIN

TERIYAKI BOWL AT 1031 MEALS / PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU WINSTON GROOM IN 1984 / PHOTO COURTESY DOY LEALE MCCALL RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ALABAMA MIX IT UP WITH CHEF ERICA BARRETT / PHOTO COURTESY VICTOR PROTASIO, FRATELLI STUDIOS AND ERIK UMPHERY

11 EDITOR’S NOTE 12 REACTION 14 ODDS & ENDS 17 THE DISH 18 TASTINGS Sample the healthy, nutritionist-certified fare at 1031 Meals 20 COLLECTIONS Five favorite cookbook picks from Jennifer Haffner of Warehouse Bakery

22 BAY TABLES Three local female chefs on the challenges and triumphs of a career in the culinary arts

34 AMAZING LIFE An intimate look inside the life and work of author Winston Groom

29 AWARENESS A look at the history and ecology of Alabama’s most valuable, and most ancient, resource — its waterways

62 NOVEMBER CALENDAR 72

66 LEGENDS Explore the mystery of a 74 12th-century Welsh

explorer’s alleged Mobile connection

7O LITERATURE Author Audrey McDonald Atkins proves there are many ways to say grace ASK MCGEHEE What’s the history of the historic Bienville Square?

IN LIVING COLOR A feast of oysters in Mobile, circa 1930

 The 2017 documentary “A Fine Line” reported that less than 7 percent of head chefs and restaurant owners in the United States are women. Meet three local ladies bucking that trend in this month’s Bay Tables, page 22.

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Mobile Bay VOLUME XXXVI

No11

NOV 2020

PUBLISHER T. J. Potts Stephen Potts Judy Culbreth

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Maggie Lacey MANAGING EDITOR/WEB Abby Parrott

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Amanda Hartin

ART DIRECTOR Laurie Kilpatrick

ASSISTANT PUBLISHER

EDITORIAL CONSULTANT

ADVERTISING S R. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Joseph A. Hyland Anna Pavao ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jennifer Ray

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

ADMINISTRATION CIRCULATION Anita Miller ACCOUNTING Keith Crabtree

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Audrey McDonald Atkins, Hallie King, Tom McGehee, Breck Pappas, John Sledge CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Justin Cordova, Matthew Coughlin, Elizabeth Gelineau, Meggan Haller / Keyhole Photo, Hunter Nichols ADVERTISING AND EDITORIAL OFFICES

3729 Cottage Hill Road, Suite H Mobile, AL 36609-6500 251-473-6269 Subscription inquiries and all remittances should be sent to: Mobile Bay P.O. Box 43 Congers, NY 10920-9922 1-833-454-5060 MOVING? Please note: U.S. Postal Service will not forward magazines mailed through their bulk mail unit.

Please send old label along with your new address four to six weeks prior to moving.

Mobile Bay is published 12 times per year for the Gulf Coast area. All contents © 2020 by PMT Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of the contents without written permission is prohibited. Comments written in this magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the ownership or the management of Mobile Bay. This magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photography or artwork. All submissions will be edited for length, clarity and style.

PUBLISHED BY PMT PUBLISHING INC .

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EXTRAS | EDITOR’S NOTE

Tried and True

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

I

sn’t it funny how we all have family recipes — the kind of dishes we cook over and over again for certain days and occasions? And then the cycle repeats itself generation after generation. My mom always made a German pancake out of the Junior League of Mobile’s “Come On In” cookbook whenever we had a big test at school. And now when I need a go-to, fill-up-the-kids-with-something-special kind of recipe, that’s what I fall back on. Partly because eggs and butter and flour cooked to fluffy perfection in a scorching hot oven just tastes so darn good. But also because it is comforting to pass those food memories on to the next generation.

So, what do we cook when the extended family gathers together for lunch?

Easy. Fried fish and cheese grits — the kind you make with that tube of garlicky processed cheese product. What about back-to-work Mondays when you don’t have an ounce of energy left? Good thing we put on that big pot of red beans and Conecuh sausage the night before. Just need a nibble for guests coming by? Mimi’s cheese straws — if you can find a family member who can actually make them like Mimi did. That’s the challenge. I’ve never figured out exactly what she did to achieve that crispy perfection.

When it comes to recipes we keep on repeat, I think the common denominator is always the feeling of comfort you get from a hearty recipe with a touch of local flavor. It helps when it is something that big and little people like equally, of course. And most importantly, it brings back memories of those you love and the times you spent with them.

With Thanksgiving on the horizon and Christmas not far behind (yikes!), we enter the time of year that food speaks loudest to our hearts and not just our stomachs. The holidays are brimming with food traditions that we all hold dear, and although these 2020 celebrations will undoubtedly look a little different from years past, we should hold on to those recipes and memories tightly.

Source some local oysters and whip up that oyster dressing that your grandmother always made at Thanksgiving. Make those holiday rum balls that your uncle loves so much, even if you aren’t expecting a crowd.

Our food memories are precious, and they will carry us through when our hearts need a little lift.

We just might need an extra pair of Spanx when this is all said and done.

Maggie Lacey EXECUTIVE EDITOR

maggie@pmtpublishing.com

LOVE THIS ISSUE STIR IT UP INSPIRE THE NEXT GENERATION OF JULIA CHILDS AND JACQUES PÉPINS WITH THESE ADORABLE WOODEN COOKING UTENSILS. CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION, $27

PUCKER UP JUST A SPLASH OF THIS VINEGAR AND SOME HIGH-QUALITY OLIVE OIL MAKE GUILTLESS SALAD DRESSINGS WITH DEPTH OF FLAVOR. ORGANIC TURMERIC BALSAMIC VINEGAR, PROVISION, $25

TRIED AND TRUE THE SPINE IS FALLING OFF MY COPY OF RECIPE JUBILEE FROM THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF MOBILE CIRCA 1964. THERE IS A FABULOUSLY EASY SPLIT PEA SOUP RECIPE (PAGE 42) THAT MAKES A REGULAR APPEARANCE ON MY DINNER TABLE THIS TIME OF YEAR.

SHUBE DOOBIE DO CATERER ROB BERGLIN SELLS HIS ADDICTIVE SHUBE SAUCE IN 13-OUNCE BOTTLES, PERFECT FOR POURING ON PORK AND CHICKEN BY THE CUPFUL. ASK FOR IT AT YOUR LOCAL GROCERY STORE.

COASTAL CLEANUP IF ANYTHING CAN MAKE WASHING UP MORE ENJOYABLE, IT’S THIS CUTE CRAB DISH SPONGE. URBAN EMPORIUM FROM THE HAPPY OLIVE, $8

AW, SHUCKS UNTIL OUR PHOTOSHOOT AT MURDER POINT OYSTER COMPANY, I HAD NEVER SEEN ONE OF THESE SHUCKING TOOLS. BASICALLY, IT HOLDS THE OYSTER WHILE YOU PRY THE SHELL, REDUCING THE CHANCE OF SLICING OFF A FINGER IN THE PROCESS. THE ONE FROM OUR STORY WAS BOUGHT IN ITALY, BUT WE FOUND THIS CUTE TWO’S COMPANY VERSION ONLINE!

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EXTRAS | REACTION

Tell us how you really feel ...

BIG KID AT HEART

‘X’ MARKS THE TRUTH

THE BIG HOUSE

On August’s spotlight of Mobile Public Library’s Frank “Mr. Butch” Tigner

On August’s feature, “Pirate’s Cove: An Oral History”

On September’s “Ask McGehee,” about the home that once stood where UMS-Wright Preparatory School now stands

Raphael Semmes’ life and career are well chronicled Glad to see you are by multiple authoritative continuing magic sources. I don’t know what wherever you are. documentation the professor - Sharon Collins from UWF has, but the “legend” of [Semmes] being Such an awesome a pirate, making raids out of article. Bravo, Butch! the bayou, is patently untrue.

Before the Civil War, Semmes - Stacie Holder did live in a house he owned FRANK “MR. BUTCH” TIGNER. PHOTO BY near Pirate’s Cove, but New MEGGAN HALLER / KEYHOLE PHOTO Orleans was the closest to the MUST EATS Bay he ever came in any of the three ships he commanded during the On August and September’s “The Dish,” war. Semmes was an interesting person, featuring bites from area restaurants being a ship captain, professor, lawyer, I’ve been to The Cheese Cottage, which author and gentleman. He had multiple I highly recommend, for its delish ties to communities on both sides of the creations, friendly atmosphere and staff.

Bay (Josephine, Mobile, Battles Wharf, to start). I would recommend a better - Jackie McMillan researched article about him before, during and after the war.

When this storm passes, we are going to Guncles. You gotta try all their - Mike Hopf gluten-free goodies!

- Kelli Ferguson

REMEMBERING A MARINE FEELIN’ THE LOVE

On August’s history piece about World War II combat veteran and author, Eugene Sledge

On MB’s September Arts issue, featuring the local trio, GypsySpark, on the cover

Such a good story — thanks for telling.

Such a gorgeous cover! Beautiful souls right there.

Thank you for recounting the early history of Briarwood. Around 1898, the home was acquired by my great-greatgrandparents, Andrew J. and Minnie Ferrell Boyles. With their five children, they moved from Mt. Pleasant in south Monroe county. Four generations of our family lived in Briarwood, including my now 81-year-old father, Truman McGonigal Smith, who was born in 1939 in “the Big House,” as they called it. He recalls the home and 27 acres being sold to UMS in 1953 for $50,000, of which he and his teenage brother, David, each received $500 in a savings account. We should have kept the house.

- Truman Smith

SLEEK SOPHISTICATION On MB’s September featured home, “Modern Oasis,” seen below There are many of us who adore clean, modern [homes] like this in Mobile.

- Kay Walton

- Sue McAnally Phillips

- Lorie Ward

Great article. “With the Old Breed: At Peleliu and Okinawa” is my favorite book.

Y’all have been killing it with awesome covers lately!

- Jon Largue

- Mollie Robinson Love this fabulous magazine — quality writing, photos and content.

“With the Old Breed” is the only assigned book reading that I finished in a sitting. Such an interesting story.

- Claire Stanard

- Will Ehlert SPRING HILL HOME OF APRIL AND BRAD SUMMERS. PHOTO BY JUSTIN CORDOVA

 Want to share your thoughts and reactions to this issue? Email maggie@pmtpublishing.com.

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[MORE ONLINE]

Find additional local stories on mobilebaymag.com.

Here’s what’s new on the website!

But Wait...There’s More!

Go online to see a full gallery of images celebrating the life of the late Winston Groom (page 34) and additional images of the Berglins’ eclectic Fairhope home (page 46).

Turkey Day Feast

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

Your Thanksgiving festivities may look a little different this year, but that’s no excuse to skimp on food. We’ve compiled our favorite holiday recipes from local chefs and reader submissions. Dig in!

Get Inspired The 2020 Mobile Bay Inspiration Home is almost complete!

Located in Fairhope’s North Hills subdivision, the home will open for tours on December 26. Follow the hashtag #MBInspirationHome on Instagram for sneak peeks, progress updates and ticket links.

Join Our Email List Get the latest in fashion, food, art, homes, history and events delivered right to your inbox. Sign up for our email list at mobilebaymag.com.

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EXTRAS | ODDS & ENDS

That Fall Itch text by MB EDITORIAL STAFF

MURDER POINT

The name of a finger of land in south Mobile County where, in 1926, a dispute over oysterharvesting rights ended in one man’s shooting death.

On page 42, read about the “oysters worth killing for” at Murder Point Oysters.

FALLING FOR YOU According to researchers, more relationships begin in the fall than any other season.

“How you doin’?’”

132,400 Miles of streams in Alabama

“One great thing about the book [“Forrest Gump”] is that it got me home. For some reason, it made me want to leave New York and come back and hang out with my friends in Alabama.”

15

PERCENT SMARTER During the fall, a typical squirrel experiences a 15 percent increase in the size of its hippocampus — the memory and emotion center of the brain — compared to the rest of the year. It’s suspected that this memory boost is meant to help the rodents remember where they buried those acorns.

Speaking of squirrels…

– Winston Groom.

On page 34, MB pays tribute to the life of a hometown literary hero.

@MayorStimpson, 9/17/20

FOREVER GREEN Evergreens don’t change color in the fall because their leaves have a thick wax covering that makes them resistant to the cold and protects the chlorophyll (green) in their leaves.

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Sad sight in Bienville. I’ve been on the phone with Bill Finch today. Three reasons why our trees saw such devastation — compaction, wind, and lack of foliage from squirrels. We will be working on restoring our square. Stay tuned.

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FOOD | THE DISH

Bite of the Bay MB’s contributing food fanatics share their go-to local dishes.

FRIED CATFISH AT LIGHTHOUSE RESTAURANT “The catfish was fried to perfection — golden, crispy and hot! You could see the specks of pepper, which I knew would be delightful. To complement my catfish, I had a loaded baked potato, which was packed to my absolute satisfaction.

To top everything off, I had a nice cold glass of delicious sweet tea, which took me back to evenings on the porch with my grandmother. A girl definitely knows great sweet tea, and this was it.”

SUNTREASE WILLIAMS MAYNARD, Special Counsel, Adams & Reese LLP

LIGHTHOUSE RESTAURANT • 12495 PADGETT SWITCH ROAD, IRVINGTON • 824-2500

BRIAN P. BRITT, Attorney, Kopesky & Britt LLC and Fairhope Title Services, LLC

OYSTER LETTUCE WRAPS AT THE WASH HOUSE “When my wife and I got married, we had our reception on the back porch of the Wash House in Point Clear. The crispy oyster lettuce wraps were served as an hors d’oeuvre, and they were the hit of the party. They are still on the menu today, and they’re as great as ever.”

THE WASH HOUSE RESTAURANT • 17111 SCENIC HWY 98, FAIRHOPE • 928-4838 WASHHOUSERESTAURANT.COM

KIM KELLY, Owner, Sophiella Gallery

STUFFED SHRIMP AT CHUCK’S FISH “As the weather cools, my palate looks for warmth and comfort. So at the end of a gallery day, I head to Chuck’s Fish where I find just the thing to satisfy — baconwrapped shrimp stuffed with crabmeat, served with red pepper aioli and savory mashed potatoes. On my most recent visit, the dish included tender broccoli, which perfectly completed the plate. Sitting upstairs is my new favorite spot to soak up the tasteful, rustic atmosphere.”

WILLIAM PEEBLES, Agent, NAI Mobile

DESSERT AT MARY’S SOUTHERN COOKING “Whenever I’m driving down Springhill Avenue, I’m always tempted to pull into Mary’s, a restaurant boasting a serious lineup of Southern standards that I would put up against anywhere else in town, and their dessert is no different. It is the only restaurant I have been to where the banana pudding is so good that you should call ahead to order — which I’m looking forward to doing as soon as I finish typing.”

MARY’S SOUTHERN COOKING • 3011 SPRIN-

CHUCK’S FISH • 551 DAUPHIN ST.

GHILL AVE. • 476-2232 • FACEBOOK.COM/

219-7051 • CHUCKSFISH.COM

MARYSSOUTHERNCOOKING/

 What dishes made you drool and left you hungry for more? Share them on our Facebook page! november 2020 | mobilebaymag.com 17

FOOD | TASTINGS

1031 Meals text by AMANDA HARTIN • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

SUPREME PIZZA

T

he kitchen doors swing open, revealing a spry Erin Akey pushing a cartful of prepared meals toward the coolers at the front. As she makes her way through the elongated cafe space, ‘round spacious seating, sprigs of flowers and signs inviting customers to make themselves at home, she passes a wall-sized mural: “So whether you eat or drink or whatever you do, do it all for the glory of God.” The verse, 1 Corinthians 10:31, is the inspiration behind Erin and husband Ben Akey’s (pictured above) titular business, 1031 Meals. “It’s personal for me,” Erin says of the restaurant’s mission. “As a former food addict, I know the struggles people face when it comes to eating healthy.”

Located on Museum Drive in Spring Hill, just moments from Municipal Park and the Mobile Tennis Center, 1031 Meals focuses on wholesome, nutritious food, all without scrimping on deliciousness. “We want people to understand the importance of clean, fresh food,” says Erin, clad in a #eatrealfood T-shirt. “Food is our first form of medicine. We had a customer who, after eating several of our meals, came in and told us he was feeling better. He wanted

to know what we were putting in the food. ‘Nothing,’ I said. And that’s the point.”

Everything on the menu is made in-house — from the sauces and spice mixes to the gluten-free bread and keto biscuits. With over 150 menu items, Erin, a certified nutritionist, and Ben, a culinary nutritionist, rotate items every three weeks. Some offerings are seasonal, like autumn’s winter squash, tomato bisque, shrimp Caesar salad and broccoli cheddar soup.

Erin puts the last of the salads on the shelf and glances toward the door. “How are you, stranger? How is your wife?” she asks without pause. More customers trickle in, each met with equal spunk and attention. During today’s lunch rush, the doors are a veritable turnstile with people picking up meals they have ordered online, perusing the coolers for take-and-heat options or taking a seat in the spacious dining area or on the patio for cafe dining.

“I truly believe that helping others become healthy is my calling,” Erin says. “If you don’t want to do the cooking, we will do it for you.” And they’ll even deliver it. MB

 1031 Meals • 744 Museum Drive • 1031meals.com Grab & Go: 8 a.m. - 7 p.m. M - F; 8 a.m. - 3 p.m. Sa; closed Su • Cafe: 8 a.m. - 3 p.m. M - Sa; closed Su 18 mobilebaymag.com | november 2020

FOOD | TASTINGS

[ ON THE MENU ]

BLUEBERRY NUT SALAD You won’t find iceberg in this — or any — salad.

Crisp romaine lettuce is topped with tender chicken, fresh blueberries, pecans, cheddar cheese and tomatoes. Served with ranch or vinaigrette dressing.

SUPREME PIZZA Mama, Mia! A thin, flaky keto crust is smothered in meats, spinach, bell peppers, onions, cheese and marinara sauce. Enjoy a personal-sized pie in the cafe or as a take-andbake option.

CILANTRO LIME SHRIMP BOWL A light and refreshing clean option, featuring perfectly cooked grilled shrimp, brown rice, broccoli, roasted tomatoes, fresh cilantro and a lime wedge.

TERIYAKI BOWL Chicken breast in homemade teriyaki sauce, sesame slaw, broccoli, roasted carrots, brown rice and pineapple topped with sesame seeds and drizzled with more teriyaki sauce.

Keto option available.

KETO BREAKFAST BOWL Start the day with fluffy, scrambled eggs, bacon and pork sausage, all prepared in coconut oil. An almond flour, keto-friendly and gluten-free biscuit completes the meal.

CILANTRO LIME SHRIMP BOWL

GUMBO | COLLECTIONS

The Cook's Books Fairhope's Warehouse Bakery & Donuts owner, Jennifer Haffner, dishes on her favorite tried-and-true cookbooks. text by AMANDA HARTIN

E

very professional has tools in their back pockets. For Jennifer Haffner, owner of Warehouse Bakery & Donuts, she's got five. Although she's received no formal training, Haffner is no stranger to the kitchen — she's been cooking for friends and family since childhood. Through reading, research and experiences, not the least of which includes climbing her way from hostess to head pastry chef at Jesse's Restaurant in Magnolia Springs, Haffner is able to take the tired and ordinary to over-the-top, made-fromscratch extraordinary. But when she needs a little extra oomph, she goes back to the cutting board, using the following books as inspiration.

"The Foster's Market Cookbook"

by Sara Foster For modern takes on classic dishes, Haffner turns here. "I've never made anything from this book that I did not like," she says.

JENNIFER HAFFNER, Warehouse Bakery & Donuts

"Flour" by Joanne Chang Fun recipes abound — think tarts, cookies and eclairs — in this compendium. "I got the 'goo' recipe for my sticky buns from this book," Haffner says.

"The Southern Foodways Alliance Community Cookbook" by Sara Roahen & John T. Edge Of this book, full of history and stories, Haffner says, "It reminds me of the Junior League cookbooks I grew up cooking with."

"Great Vegetarian Cooking Under Pressure"

by Lorna J. Sass Although Haffner is no longer vegetarian, this book still tops her list. "The recipes are quick and healthy and easily dressed up with a few spices," she says.

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"Tartine Bread" by Chad Robertson "Bread is my favorite," Haffner concedes. This photo-heavy book includes in-depth explanations of the science behind sourdough baking.

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FOOD | BAY TABLES

ON text by HALLIE KING

FIRE

In a culture where women are often placed at the heart of the kitchen, it is still surprisingly rare to see a top female head chef. While America is just beginning to explore the root causes of this complex imbalance, it should come as no surprise that few Mobile-area restaurants are steered by women. MB is taking a moment to stand back and applaud three bastions of talent and determination who share their passion for good food daily with hungry diners across our area — three female chefs whose cuisine is nothing short of on fire.

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F

rom the time they can reach the countertops with a spoon or whisk in hand, countless little girls in south Alabama learn firsthand the basic techniques of cooking and baking. Mothers, fathers, grandparents, relatives and mentors pass down the food preparation skills that have permeated Southern culture for generations, raising daughters that are well prepared to feed themselves and those around them when necessity arises. Many even learn to love the craft, honing skills in stewing spectacular soups, baking mind-blowing brownies or frying a fantastic piece of poultry.

Yet, few are encouraged to pursue this craft as a career. “By the time I was 13, I was cooking full meals,” says Erica Barrett, standout Southern entrepreneur, chef and owner of SOCU Southern Kitchen and Oyster Bar in downtown Mobile, “but I didn’t know at the time that my career could be food. I didn’t think it would be something that I could monetize.”

And this sentiment isn’t unique to the Bay area — nationwide, only 7 to 21 percent of restaurants are led by female chefs, according to a 2014 Bloomberg study and a 2017 Eater study, respectively. Despite the ever-growing popularity of female chefs on shows for the Food Network and Cooking Channel and on YouTube and Instagram, the disparities between head chef genders are still staggering.

Female chefs, however, are pecking away at the inequality gap between themselves and their male counterparts, navigating the many on-the-job challenges and earning their rightful spot at the head of the table. The Mobile area has a handful of female chefs, like Barrett, who have earned their stripes, and more are on the way up.

Arwen Rice, executive chef at Red or White in Mobile for more than seven years, is pursuing a passion that sparked when she was a young teenager. Growing up with two food-loving parents in culturally rich New Mexico, she entered into the industry when she was only 18 years old, baking and serving customers until she realized that the savory kitchen was where she wanted to be. She enrolled in culinary school with a passion for the craft and for really good ingredients, and learned from restaurant to restaurant until she settled in Mobile. She now recognizes that women are slowly changing the workplace, when they can, to a more family-oriented model that offers more time away for family, hobbies and an active social life. “We’re what the future of the industry looks like,” says Rice. “I’m not going to burn out by the time I’m 45, because I’m not working 16 hours a day. As female chefs, we can be part of the

change in the industry.”

Their ultimate love for food, service and nourishing others is what keeps these leading culinary ladies on top in their respective positions, even if they are being compared to male colleagues. “No one can deny something that tastes good, regardless of who made it,” says Victoria Read, chef at The Lakewood Club at the Grand Hotel in Point Clear.

She, too, grew up cooking but never considered the hobby a potential career until her five-year employment at a Florida science lab left her feeling unfulfilled. Cooking didn’t feel like work to her, and although she received formal training in the field, her real understanding of the craft came just as it does to many Mobilians: through hands-on learning at home. “There are things people do and ways they cook that are very classical, they just don’t know the names for it,” Read says. “If your mom taught you how to make a gumbo, you’re making a brown roux and using the trinity. It goes back centuries, and it’s nice to see that it’s still classic cooking.

It’s just teaching someone that they do know it, they just don’t know they know it.”

The Port City’s reputation for Southern hospitality rests on this foundation of feeding others with the skills passed down from prior generations.

Although every Mobilian may not believe they have the chops to make it in a professional kitchen, the culinary contributions made around a family table are just as impactful to the advancement of the industry as they are to the hungry bellies waiting at home.

“Cooking for somebody else is one of the nicest things you can do for somebody,” Rice says. “Even if it’s not going to be some restaurant quality-inspired meal, even if it’s just for your family, it’s very important.”

Barrett agrees. Her career began as a human resources generalist, working in corporate America until winning $10,000 in a cooking contest for Food Network and Lea & Perrins.

Validated by her win and the positive reception to her delicious dishes, she worked up the entrepreneurial ranks and established herself in the food industry with a decade-long career as an Atlanta caterer with her own product line. But despite her successes and eventual restaurant ownership in Mobile, she still recognizes that cooking for the love of the craft — no matter the setting — is the most significant form of all. “Food is meant to be enjoyed and to nourish our bodies,” she says. “If you can find even one recipe that you’re good at, and cook that and be proud of it, I feel that you’re on your way to a well-rounded, fulfilling life.” november 2020 | mobilebaymag.com 23

season with salt and pepper.

Cook until browned on all sides and remove from skillet.

MEET ERICA BARRETT PHOTOS COURTESY VICTOR PROTASIO, FRATELLI STUDIOS AND ERIK UMPHERY

SOCU SOUTHERN KITCHEN AND OYSTER BAR Mobile native Barrett rose to foodie fame with her Southern Culture product line, but Mobilians now know her best for her Downtown restaurant, SOCU Southern Kitchen and Oyster Bar. A graduate of the International Culinary Center in New York, Barrett allows nostalgic Gulf Coast fare to inspire her menu but turns to her international travels for dinner inspiration at home.

CHEF ERICA’S CHICKEN & SHRIMP SKILLET POT PIE SERVES 4-6

There’s no complicated crust required for this down-home pot pie. The filling is developed in a skillet in 20 minutes or less, and after topping it with simply baked biscuits, that same skillet can go directly to the table for a beautifully rustic presentation.

The addition of shrimp puts a Gulf Coast spin on this comfort food classic.

1 tablespoon olive oil 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, diced kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste 1/2 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined 1/2 onion, chopped 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 1 large potato, diced 3 tablespoons flour 1/2 cup chicken broth 1 1/2 cups heavy cream 1 1/2 cups frozen peas 6 Petit Biscuits (recipe right)

1. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add chicken and 24 mobilebaymag.com | november 2020

2. Add shrimp and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 3 minutes and set aside.

3. Add onion, carrots, celery and potato and cook until vegetables are soft, 6 to 8 minutes.

4. Sprinkle flour over vegetables and cook 2 to 3 minutes more.

5. Add chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Cook 8 to 10 minutes more until slightly thickened.

6. Stir in cream, peas, chicken and shrimp. Cook 3 to 4 minutes until cream has thickened.

7. Top with 6 biscuits and serve.

PETIT BISCUITS

2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon sugar 6 tablespoons butter, cold 1 1/2 cups buttermilk or 3/4 cups whole milk

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2. Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar in a large bowl.

3. Dice cold butter into small chunks. Place butter into dry mixture and incorporate into flour until it resembles coarse crumbs.

4. Add buttermilk or whole milk to dry mixture. Stir just until combined. Batter should appear wet; if dry, add more milk.

5. To prepare drop biscuits, scoop batter onto a greased baking sheet with a tablespoon or an ice cream scoop. For traditional Southern biscuits, turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Fold the dough 10 times, then gently roll or pat the dough to 1-inch thickness. Cut biscuits with a biscuit cutter and place on a greased baking sheet. Bake 10 to 15 minutes until golden brown.

MEET ARWEN RICE RED OR WHITE

CHEF ARWEN’S ARTICHOKE DIP SERVES 8-10

This recipe originated from Rice’s uncle in New Mexico.

When she moved to Mobile 12 years ago, food was one thing that kept her connected to her family and her hometown.

Now she serves this dip to her husband’s family in Mobile at annual holiday gatherings. Rice suggests Abbazia di Novacella Kerner, an organically farmed aromatic white wine from Northern Italy, as an accompaniment.

Rice was born and raised in New Mexico, where early memories of international street cuisine that still inspire her love of food today originated. She attended the Art Institute of Colorado in Denver and has worked at Red or White since its early days on Old Shell Road, where she cooked solo until the business expanded and moved to Dauphin Street.

1 pound cream cheese 1/2 cup half and half 1/2 cup Parmesan 3 green onions, roughly chopped 4 chipotle peppers, canned (more if you like it spicy!)

3 cloves garlic 2 eggs 1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 teaspoons salt black pepper, to taste 2 (8.5-ounce) cans artichokes, drained 6 ounces pepper jack cheese (Tillamook is the best)

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and grease a casserole dish.

3. Add artichokes and pulse until slightly chunky but not smooth.

4. Pour mixture into casserole dish and top with pepper jack cheese.

5. Bake 50 minutes until the top is golden brown.

PHOTOS BY MATTHEW COUGHLIN

2. Combine everything, except the artichokes and pepper jack cheese, in a food processor.

Blend until smooth.

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MEET VICTORIA READ LAKEWOOD CLUB Born in England but raised in Connecticut and south Florida, Read draws inspiration from both national and international travels made while studying for a bachelor of science from the University of Florida and a culinary degree from The Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale. She worked her way through the ranks as a baker, line cook, kitchen supervisor and banquet chef before landing the top spot at the Lakewood

PHOTOS BY MATTHEW COUGHLIN

Club at the Grand Hotel.

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CHEF VICTORIA’S ROAST CHICKEN STEW SERVES 5-6 This family recipe screams comfort food for Read. It’s quick and simple, but it tastes like a full day’s work. She recommends preparing one and a half chicken thighs for each person that you’re serving.

8-9 chicken thighs, skin-on, bone-in kosher salt and black pepper, to taste 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or bacon grease 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 sweet onions, diced 2 1/2 pounds Yukon gold or new potatoes, chopped juice of 2 oranges 10 fresh thyme sprigs 4 cups chicken stock 1/2 cup white wine 1 tablespoon brown sugar

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2. Cut extra fat from chicken thighs.

Pat dry. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Heat an oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Add oil or bacon grease and lay chicken thighs in the skillet skin-side down, allowing an inch between each thigh. Sear in batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding.

4. Once skin is golden, remove thighs from skillet. Brush 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard on the flesh side of each thigh. Set aside.

5. Sear onions and potatoes in the same skillet until tender. Add orange juice, thyme, chicken stock and white wine.

6. Add chicken thighs back into the skillet, skin-side up. Cover skillet with foil.

7. Bake, covered, for 20 minutes. Sprinkle each chicken skin with 1/2 teaspoon brown sugar and return to oven, uncovered, 15 minutes until chicken reaches 165 degrees internally. Serve warm. november 2020 | mobilebaymag.com 27

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GUMBO | AWARENESS

ALABAMA RIVERS A CELEBRATION & CHALLENGE

Ancient and teeming, resilient yet vulnerable, the rivers of Alabama contain a biological treasure trove that demands our celebration — and begs for our protection.

text by BRECK PAPPAS • photos by HUNTER NICHOLS

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Left An aerial view of the Tensaw River, bordered by vast, old-growth forests.

According to scientist William G. Deutsch, “The Mobile Delta rivers and their thousands of tributaries flow through a wilderness that is among the most biologically diverse places on earth.”

I

magine the oldest place you’ve ever visited. The muffled, musty catacombs of Rome. The ruins of a medieval castle, where stone steps are worn from centuries of foot traffic. The still sanctity of a grand cathedral.

Now put yourself in a canoe, drifting along the current of the Coosa or Tombigbee rivers, where water has shaped stone and shore for millennia, not centuries, and where a natural cathedral of cypress and oak trees has dropped leaves for innumerable seasons, unobserved by man.

To consider time, to wrap our minds around its mysteries and wonders, we look to the rivers; it’s no coincidence that 6 million people visit the Grand Canyon every year. Some Alabamians might be surprised to learn that their state has more navigable river miles than any other state in the nation, and as we mark the passage of time, notably our bicentennial, we also find ourselves looking to the rivers.

To lead us on this journey, we turn to Dr. William Deutsch, a retired research fellow from Auburn University who has spent more than 30 years studying the rivers of Alabama, following its currents around unfamiliar bends and sharing his passion and knowledge with scientists across the state. In coordination with the Alabama Bicentennial Commission, Deutsch published the beautifully written

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and presented book “Alabama Rivers: A Celebration & Challenge,” an “outgrowth of my love of all things aquatic,” he explains in its introduction. But it’s also the culmination of a lifetime of meticulous scholarship. The result is a comprehensive telling, a past, present, and future overview of Alabama’s waterways.

With the knowledge we’ve gained over the past 200 years of statehood comes a responsibility to act on those lessons. As noted in the book’s introduction, written

by Michael Kensler: “Over the past 30 years, the science of river ecology has made great strides. We now know more clearly than ever before how river systems function and what steps we need to take to keep them healthy.”

Traveling backwards through Alabama’s geological and anthropological histories, it becomes apparent that no two rivers are created equal. Deutsch explains that, “Geology, topography, and the water cycle have shaped Alabama’s rivers and their watersheds, giving them different ‘personalities’ that teem with special plants and animals.”

The significance of these rivers in the development of Alabama cannot be overemphasized, a fact that is reflected on the state seal. The Great Seal of Alabama is, in fact, “the only state seal in the US that features its rivers.” The first governor of the

state, William Wyatt Bibb, either commissioned or drew for himself the state’s first seal, complete with 10 major rivers. The design is an important insight into the perceived importance of Alabama’s waterways, but, as Deutsch explains, there’s far more to the story.

“As important as a people-centered interpretation of the state seal may be, such an interpretation is insufficient to grasp the full importance of Alabama’s rivers. For that, we need to go back in time, in prehistoric or deep time, to see how great forces of the earth created these rivers and how life forms adapted and spread throughout them to give Alabama an aquatic treasure that is unique in the world.”

In Alabama, most rivers lead to Mobile. In fact, almost two-thirds of the state’s 52,400 square miles drains through the Mobile Basin, “a 44,000-square-mile convergence of several large rivers that flow through parts of Georgia, Tennessee, and Mississippi but end in Alabama at Mobile Bay.” Human civilization is built around water.

The famous naturalist and author William Bartram, upon seeing the confluence of the Coosa and Tallapoosa Rivers in 1775, declared, “This is perhaps one of the most eligible situations for a city in the world.”

Bartram knew what he was talking about; the capital city of Montgomery would later be built just a few miles south.

Native Americans, the state’s earliest

132,400

miles of streams in Alabama.

Strung together end-to-end, these streams would stretch around the entire Earth more than five times.

TOP 10

Alabama ranks in the top 10 nationally for the most types of native plants and animals.

No. 1

Alabama ranks first in the nation for stream miles per square mile of land area.

1,400

navigable river miles exist in Alabama, the most of any state in the nation.

43 BILLION gallons of water per day flow into the Gulf of Mexico from the Mobile Bay Basin, the fourth largest in the country in terms of annual discharge.

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inhabitants, built entire civilizations around the sustenance of our waterways; the luckiest among us have seen firsthand the traces of early human existence in the Mobile Delta. The Bottle Creek Indian Mounds, occupied from about 1250 to 1550, consisted of 18 earthen mounds, the largest towering at over 50 feet high. From the early exploration of Europeans to the escape of slaves along the Underground Railroad, the Mobile and Tombigbee rivers have served as a stage to some of history’s greatest performances.

You don’t have to own a flat-bottomed boat or a have a degree in biology to recognize the ecological richness of Alabama’s river system, particularly in the lower Mobile-Tensaw Delta. Observant commuters on the Causeway might spot a pelican enjoying a fishy breakfast or an alligator bobbing at the water’s surface.

“Baldwin and Mobile counties border Mobile Bay, receive the most rainfall of any other Alabama counties, and have the highest plant productivity and overall biodiversity in the state,” Deutsch confirms. The Mobile Delta, a 10-by-40mile network of lakes and streams, is “ecologically important, functioning as a sponge that filters sediments and pollution from two-thirds of Alabama as well as portions of neighboring states. The expanse provides habitat for numerous rare plants and animals.”

Forests make up half or more of the land use in the watersheds of the Tombigbee and Mobile rivers, and about 20 percent of the land is used for agriculture. The Mobile Delta has been dubbed “America’s Amazon” and is described as one of the most biologically diverse places on earth.

But with that vitality comes vulnerability; the Delta faces a host of threats, “including toxins and excess sedimentation and nutrients coming from the many streams that feed it.”

Some advocates, including Alabama native and Harvard biologist E.O. Wilson, support the creation of a national park in the Mobile Delta in order to enforce stronger environmental protections. One point of focus among biologists is the preservation of the Alabama red-bellied turtle, the state 32 mobilebaymag.com | november 2020

reptile, which is endangered and ranks as “highest conservation concern” by the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources. “Alabama has more species of turtles than any state,” Deutsch says, “and even more than the entire Amazon River Basin — one of our many biodiversity claims to fame.”

Time flows like a river, and it’s important to consider what’s downstream. Deutsch spends most of his time thinking about the future, noting that “our challenge is to become more aware of rivers so we can wisely protect the good, restore the bad, and not neglect the lifeblood of the state.”

Humans have changed our rivers in ways that are both direct and indirect. Directly, we have manipulated rivers to produce electricity, irrigate crops, move goods and reduce flooding, among countless other uses. But we’ve also affected our waterways indirectly in the form of land use changes in the watershed. “Often, good intentions to do things for human benefit have unintended negative consequences for rivers,” Deutsch explains. “These impacts affect rivers in three significant and interconnected ways: water quantity, water quality, and aquatic biota.”

But Deutsch does more than simply identify the threats facing Alabama waterways. After an extensive exploration of the problems we face, he issues seven achievable, clear-eyed challenges to the reader: Keep learning about rivers, expand river education programs, make water conservation a way of life, support river organizations, promote good water policy, develop a personal river ethic and get out on the water.

Considering the scope of the issue, it’s easy to become overwhelmed by the task ahead, but scientists such as Deutsch say there’s no time for cynicism. He prefers, instead, to give ordinary Alabamians the tools to make a difference, however small.

“There’s a lot you can do … now … to keep Alabama a beautiful river state.” MB

To purchase a copy of “Alabama Rivers: A Celebration & Challenge,” visit alabamariversbook.org. november 2020 | mobilebaymag.com 33

PEOPLE | AMAZING LIFE

A FAREWELL TO GROOM

Winston Groom at his residence in the Hamptons, 1978

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Author Winston Groom left us with a collection of gripping histories, poignant novels and one of the most beloved fictional characters to ever come out of the South. But most of all, he left us wanting more. text by BRECK PAPPAS • photos courtesy SUSAN GROOM

I

& Gun, the author was asked what his mother would t was never easy for Winston Groom to blend in. At think of his writing success. “I’m not a big church-goer,” 6 feet 5 inches, the author towered in every room he he told Hoffman, “but I think she’s seeing it.” occupied, even as a young man. If blending in was He liked good-natured arguments and antique shotthe goal, he certainly didn’t do himself any favors in guns. He hated airplanes, disliked having his picture later years — upon his passing in September, at the age taken and loved the Crimson Tide. In a 2016 email of 77, Groom had more than 20 books to his name, a with Groom in which I asked how he planned to watch Pulitzer Prize nomination and the elusive honor of having Alabama’s season opener, he answered, “I will just have created a character that is firmly embedded in the national gotten back from the North Carolina mountains and consciousness. In remembrance of Groom, the New York am gonna watch it in my TV room with my Times posited, “Forrest Gump became, like wife Susan, dog Camellia and anyone else who Huck Finn and Atticus Finch, to name two promises not to talk during the plays. Boiled other fictional Southerners, a beloved American “[‘FORREST peanuts and cold beer.” character.”

At her home in Point Clear, Mrs. Groom “He didn’t care about being in the spotlight GUMP’] WAS flips through photographs of her late husband: much,” says wife Susan Groom. “If he was to THE MOST Winston as a strapping, short-haired soldier receive an award, he’d be a little shy about it.”

FUN I’VE in Vietnam; as a rugby player soaring skyward Despite his eye-grabbing height and “Gump” (“He loved playing rugby the years he lived in (as he was known to refer to his 1986 novel), EVER HAD Washington, D.C.”); as a young novelist, sitGroom often found solace in intimate converWRITING ting with his feet propped on his desk in the sations at the fringe of a party or at his summer BECAUSE I Hamptons, his English Sheepdog, Fenwick, retreat in North Carolina; after the release of LIKED THE posted at the door. the film version of “Forrest Gump,” he conOther photos show him drinking a beer fessed that he “headed for the mountains to CHARACTER. with Willie Morris, a whiskey with Irwin Shaw escape it all and didn’t answer the phone for a I LIKED HIS — established writers who took to the curlycouple of months.”

VOICE.” haired aspiring novelist, known for cruising Groom was raised and educated on Old around the Hamptons listening to bluegrass Shell Road; as a cadet at University Military – Winston Groom tapes in his Lincoln Continental. He would School (UMS), he found his niche as the edilikewise fall in with the likes of Kurt Vonnetor of the school newspaper and yearbook. For gut, George Plimpton and Joseph Heller. a time, he considered becoming an attorney “They exuded this electricity,” Groom told People like his father, Winston, but he would come to find the magazine in a short profile in 1978, “and I guess I law too dry. His mother, Ruth, was a high school teacher hoped some of it would rub off on me.” with a master’s thesis on Shakespeare. “So I had a dose Perhaps it did. His first two novels, “Better Times Than of literature that way,” he noted. After returning from These” and “As Summers Die,” were favorably reviewed, Vietnam and finding work as a reporter for the now-deand his third book, the nonfiction “Conversations with funct Washington Star, Groom later revealed that he felt the Enemy,” garnered a Pulitzer Prize nomination. Then inspired to pursue his novelist aspirations in the wake of came “Gump.” The short novel about a simple-minded his mother’s death.

Alabamian only took Groom six weeks to complete.

“It was the bravest thing I ever did,” he reflected. “I “I thought people would either think I was crazy resigned and told them I was going to write a book.” or they’d love it,” he said. Published in 1986, “Forrest In Roy Hoffman’s 2007 profile of Groom in Garden

november 2020 | mobilebaymag.com 35

Gump” sold a respectable 30,000 hardback copies, but the blockbuster film it inspired resulted in a national frenzy, not to mention six Academy Awards. Upon seeing the film for the first time, at a special screening at Mobile’s Carmike Theater, Groom said he “sat there stunned when it was over.”

“Gump” always hovered over its author. In the most literal sense, the movie poster for the 1994 film had the preeminent spot over his writing desk, scrawled with handwritten notes from the cast.

“Dear Mister Groom, I can only thank you and hope you’ll forgive my irregularities in this Forrest. Very respectfully, Tom Hanks.”

“Thanks so much for Mama Gump!!” reads another.

“Yours forever, Sally Field.”

He clearly wasn’t smothered by the legacy of “Forrest Gump.” (After all, he put the poster there.) But you could hardly blame him if he was.

“The night before [the Oscars], there was a big party,” he told Garden & Gun in 2019 in an interview celebrating the 25th anniversary of the film’s release. “I was talking to Hanks and he said, ‘I’m not sure you did me any favors here.

They’re going to want me to play this character forever.’

“I told him I was in the same boat. The next book I wrote could be the Bible and all people would want to talk about is ‘Gump.’”

Groom dedicated the book to two of his best Mobile buddies, Jimbo Meador and George Radcliff. Upon the film’s immediate success, the national media raced to peg

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one or both men as the “real” Forrest Gump.

“There is no real Forrest Gump character that I know of,” Groom confided in that 2019 interview, “even though my friend Jimbo Meador gets accused of it all the time.”

During a phone call a few days after Groom’s passing, Meador reflects on their lifelong friendship.

“I’m gonna really miss him,” he says, in a Gump-ish drawl. “He actually changed my life, you know, when they asked him if he would do a recording for Tom Hanks to study, to get a Southern accent. And he said, ‘Let me tell you something, I’ve been living in New York. My Southern accent’s gotten screwed up. You need to talk to Jimbo Meador.’ That’s how I got involved with that. But anyways, he’s changed my life in a bunch of ways. So I’ve been blessed to have had him for a friend.”

Another call to George Radcliff yields more memories of Gump and friendship.

“He left a big hole in our lives,” Radcliff says. The pair met while attending high school at UMS, and Groom later lived at Radcliff ’s Point Clear home for two years.

“My ex-wife was living with us at the time and said Winston and I were degenerate pigs,” he recalls, remembering the state of their shared kitchen. “He wrote ‘Gump’ while

he was there. I had a little house out back where he lived.

One day, he came down on Arthur Corte’s wharf and said, ‘I’m writing a book about an idiot.’ We all said, ‘Well, you’re qualified, Groom.’” Radcliff recognizes, however, that Gump is “part Winston, part Jimbo and part me.”

“He was just a good friend. Good, good friend. I could talk all day [about him], but he was just a good friend.”

In an email with the New York Times, P.J. O’Rourke, famous journalist and Groom’s longtime friend, reminded the world that “‘Forrest Gump’ is not the only reason to celebrate him as a great writer,” noting that Groom’s debut novel, “Better Times Than These” (1978), “was the best novel written about the Vietnam War.” It’s an opinion that speaks to Groom’s incredible range as a storyteller.

“I don’t write the same thing over and over like they want you to,” he joked in a 2016 interview with this magazine.

“Critics, book reviewers, my publishers and probably my own editor — even my literary agent — hate me. I’ve written about everything from the Civil War battles of Shiloh, Vicksburg and Nashville to ‘Forrest Gump,’ to the world seen through the eyes of an English Sheepdog (‘Only’) to a young adult biography of Ronald Reagan, to novels about Vietnam to the biography of a U.S. marine, alleged traitor and turncoat kept in North Vietnam for 12 years. They can’t peg me or put me in a category, and it drives them nuts!”

In the past two decades, he churned out historical titles from Point Clear or his summer escape in the mountains of North Carolina. (At the time of his death, Groom was

From left to right Groom at a book signing in 1984 for his novel “Only,” a heartfelt tale told from the perspective of an English Sheepdog.

PHOTO COURTESY DOY LEALE MCCALL RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ALABAMA ; As a reporter in D.C., Groom (jump-

ing) discovered rugby and threw himself into the sport. “He made so many great friends that way and stayed in touch with them through the years,” Mrs. Groom says; Lt. Groom served in the infantry in Vietnam. “I escaped with my life, so to speak,” he later said; From left to right, Jimbo Meador, George Radcliff and Groom enjoy a day on the water. Groom dedicated the novel “Forrest Gump” to his two buddies, not anticipating the national attention that the story’s success would bring to the men. “I think he appreciated his success, but he was very modest about it,” Mrs. Groom says. “The success he felt came through the satisfaction of people liking his books and wanting to talk to him about them.”

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When this writer produced a short magazine article about preparing for the publication of his next book, “The Patrithe proliferation of wild hogs in the Mobile Delta, an email ots,” excerpted on page 38). from a very familiar name pinged my inbox at 9 a.m. one “You’re not gonna set the world on fire writing history Friday morning. books like you will with, say, ‘Forrest Gump,’” he once said.

“Enjoyed your piece on hogs,” it read. “But you forgot “But you will create a following.” something regarding hogs in the Delta. No, we don’t have “He gained a lot from his association with other writers,” an abundance of cougars or bears Mrs. Groom adds. “And he liked talkto keep the hog population down. ing to young writers and trying to help But there is now an overabundance them.” of large scaly reptiles up there with “Winston was the first ‘real’ author big jaws, sharp teeth, long tails and that ever read anything of mine,” rea voracious appetite that enjoy raw members local author Watt Key. “He hog whenever they can get it. Best, read one of my first novels and politely Winston Groom.” told me that it wasn’t going to sell. And He relished time spent with upthen he told me why. and-coming writers and editors.

“At first, I was insulted. But as he Philip Marino, a young New Yorkpredicted, the novel never sold. And based editor who worked closely years later I realized that not only was with Groom, remembers the author he right, but the advice he gave was as a “founding father of my love for something I continued to revisit and literature.” Following the release of use to make my writing better. the novel “El Paso,” Marino was “I’m thankful that he was honest tasked with driving Groom from with me that day. I’m even more thankNew Orleans to Nashville on a ful that he was willing to spend his book signing tour. Thinking back time slogging through a terrible novel on the scotch-soaked adventure, of a young writer all those years ago.

Marino reflects, “What I’m left That says a lot. Not many authors of with is a conviction that Winston his caliber will do that.” was the kind of person who comes Author and Mobilian Michael along only a few times in a generaKnight reflects, “I never knew Winston tion. He touched every life he came very well, but he was gracious enough across and changed every life that to blurb my first novel. ‘Forrest Gump’ came across his work. The world came out when I was in high school. won’t be the same without him, but I remember reading it on an airplane. it’s also a much better place because I honestly can’t recall where we were of him.” going, but I can remember laughing so “And he loved hearing from his hard it was embarrassing and loving the readers,” Mrs. Groom adds. “Every book so much I read it all over again now and then, he’d send me an email on the trip and hunted up his two preand say, ‘I got this letter today, and vious novels on my parents’ bookshelf this is why I write.’ Because somewhen we got home, three very differbody would say, ‘Thank you so ent books, especially read all in a row Bird hunting was a lifelong pursuit for Groom, as much for telling that story.’ like that, and indicative of a broad and Top was collecting fine shotguns.

“He was a hardworking writer. ranging talent.

Above An adoring Groom with daughter Carolina, He was very disciplined. But the “I saw him most recently at the Ala- a recent graduate of the University of Alabama. reason he was, was because that’s bama Book Festival in Montgomery. what he really liked to do ... He was just happy sitting at that He was promoting one of his histories — more evidence of desk and writing.” his range and intellect. We didn’t talk long — I was leaving the stage and he was just about to begin his talk — but I was “In the end, I’m just really damn grateful for the whole so pleased to be able to shake his hand and thank him for thing,” the author said in 2019. the blurb.”

Mr. Groom, color us grateful, too.

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The Patriots This month marks the release of Winston Groom’s masterful narrative, “The Patriots: Alexander Hamilton, Thomas Jefferson, John Adams, and the Making of America.” Winning the American Revolution was improbable enough. But after the smoke settled at the Battle of Yorktown, the fledging United States of America was faced with a wholly different but no less daunting challenge — establishing a workable democratic government in a vast, newly independent country.

Groom utilizes his storytelling sensibilities to bring to life three founding fathers who, he argues, were fundamentally responsible for the ideas that shaped the emerging country: Alexander Hamilton, Thomas Jefferson and John Adams. As the book jacket describes, “Their lives could not have been more different, and their relationships with each other were often rife with animosity.”

It was an age of deep partisan division, but through the story of these three icons, Groom reminds us that compromise was, and still is, an essential aspect of America’s democracy.

Excerpt from “The Patriots: Alexander Hamilton, Thomas Jefferson, John Adams, and the Making of America” From the still-glowing ashes of the Revolutionary War three men emerged, as unlike one another as it was possible to be. Alexander Hamilton grew up working as a shipping clerk on the island of St. Croix and came to America as a student. Thomas Jefferson was, first, a farmer — a slaveholding planter, a Virginia aristocrat, polymath, Renaissance man, and Enlightenment thinker. John Adams was an eccentric, Harvard-educated lawyer from Massachusetts, who became deeply involved with the early revolutionaries in Boston.

Both Adams and Jefferson would become presidents of the United States; Hamilton would become the nation’s first secretary of the treasury, who saved the fledgling country from bankruptcy and gave it the foundations of the financial system that has existed for more than two centuries.

Despite their mutual concerns during the Revolution, these three founders developed an abiding hatred of each other so intense that at times it threatened to bring down the fragile republic.

Yet each reached the very pinnacle of his own power and genius in the formative years of the nation, and each had a consuming patriotism.

These three men loved their embryonic country and were ready to lay down their lives for it. They were present at the creation of America’s critical founding documents, and their high-minded ideals and policies have resonated for nearly 250 years.

Those 250 years have not always been easy. In his famous farewell address at the end of his presidency, George Washington warned against the growth of political factions, which he saw as malignantly divisive forces that could tear the nation apart. His fears were prescient, but his warning went unheeded.

As the newly minted United States attempted to create a viable federal system, the country began to split politically into two main parties. The Federalists, led by Hamilton (by then a New Yorker),

argued for a strong central government modeled loosely on the British system. The Republicans, led by Jefferson the Virginian, demanded a much weaker central government, emphasized states’ rights, and generally favored the French over the British model.

As the tempest brewed, the press entered the fray. Newspapers not only informed but deliberately inflamed political opinion, inspiring duels and sometimes tearing family and friends apart.

Personal attacks were the order of the day, with stories written on the flimsiest of evidence.

Into this toxic climate the three founders plunged themselves, each believing that the political notions of the others would lead the country into dangerous chaos and ruin. They were, after all, floundering in the unknown: nothing like the American experiment had ever been tried on such a scale and with such a diverse population, both ethnically and regionally.

If Hamilton, Jefferson, and Adams were intemperate in their political passions, it was most likely out of fear of squandering the exquisite chance they had acquired with the revolutionary victory.

None of the three wished to dispel it; they wanted to see America prosper as an enlightened model of self-government among men.

It is a sad irony of history that at one time they were on such friendly terms—particularly Jefferson and Adams—and that their divergence in political thought led first to discomfort, then distrust, then mistrust, and at last hatred.

The arguments they engaged in have not ended, and Americans continue to enjoy the liberty to indulge in fractious disagreements. If the revolutionary victory was something of a miracle, it remains a wonder that the democracy it spawned has survived at all. That it does so is a twist of fate for which all Americans should be eternally grateful. MB Courtesy: Winston Groom, National Geographic Books

 Support local bookstores by purchasing Winston Groom’s “The Patriots: Alexander Hamilton, Thomas Jefferson, John Adams, and the Making of America” at the Haunted Book Shop in Mobile or Page & Palette in Fairhope.

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PARTY ON IN 5 THE HALF EASY STEPS SHELL text by MAGGIE LACEY photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

ALL IT TAKES IS A LITTLE CREATIVITY & PLANNING TO SET THE STAGE FOR A LUXURIOUS FEAST IN THE HEART OF THE BAYOU AT MURDER POINT OYSTERS.

MEET OUR HOST We packed up our finest tableware and headed to Murder Point Oysters in Bayou la Batre for an afternoon with Heathie Bagwell Cox, someone who knows a thing or two about throwing a fabulous fete. Though she now resides in Nashville, she loves to introduce her friends to life on the Bay, and that usually involves local seafood, good wine and lots of laughs.

During the pandemic, with travel restricted and dining out a little different, Heathie brought friends down to the Bayou for local oysters shucked fresh on property. But it is the way she sets the stage that takes this oyster outing from plain delicious to totally spectacular.

2

MAKE YOUR SAUCES AHEAD Murder Point doesn’t supply the fixings, so be sure to make your sauces before you go. Cocktail sauce, mignonette, sliced lemons and a shot of Tabasco are all a must for a platter of farm-raised oysters.

1

Tip: Pack the sauces in small Mason jars. The lids keep everything neat and tidy on the way there and back again.

RAID YOUR GRANDMOTHER’S SILVER CABINET The Victorians created a silver utensil to serve every purpose, and oysters were no exception.

In a time when it was considered immensely offensive to touch your food, silversmiths designed the oyster fork with a long center tine for stabbing the meat, two curved tines to support and hold it, and a sharp left blade for releasing the bivalve from its shell. Our fabulous picnic effortlessly paired high and low, and the high began with silver. None of this is necessary, of course, but it sure is fun.

Tip: Pack a small plastic zip-top bag to stash dirty silver for the trip home.

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MELAMINE PLATES These unbreakable melamine plates are printed with the classic tobacco leaf design popular in Mottahedeh’s fine china. What a perfect way to get a high-end look in an onthe-go package!

RAISE THE BAR Pack glass stemware and a few bottles of fine wine and champagne to complement your oysters. No need to set a full bar, but remember a bag of ice. A pewter ice bucket for keeping wine cold looks très chic compared to an ice chest on the floor.

3

ORDER FRIED SEAFOOD TO-GO The most experienced hostesses make something and buy something when entertaining. We called ahead for fried crab claws from the Lighthouse Restaurant in Bayou la Batre to round out the feast and picked up the takeout on the way to Murder Point. Styrofoam containers are fine!

A TISKET A TASKET Heathie loves to use a traditional basket to haul things from home to picnic, but this one has a bonus insulated interior. Load it down with all your sauces, fresh veg and a few bottles of bubbly.

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4

5

PERFECT THAT SHUCK Every Mobilian worth their stripe should know how to shuck an oyster.

If you’ve always been too timid to give it a try, designate one guest as the official “mother shucker” of the day. A couple of sturdy dish rags (that you don’t mind ruining) always come in handy. Have a few knife options as well, and once there, ask the Zirlotts for their best tips.

DOWN ON THE FARM The Zirlott family has been working Bayou la Batre’s seafood industry for four generations. Rosa Zirlott and her husband Brent have been knee-deep in seafood for 45 years, and their son, Lane, now works alongside them.

Murder Point Oysters operates a small store along the highway in the shadow of the Bayou la Batre bridge.

You can buy oysters by the sack and take them out front where a small deck and a few picnic tables are ready to set the stage for your own oyster feast. While amenities are slim right now, the Zirlotts hope to expand the offering in the near future. MB 13640 N. Wintzell Ave., Bayou La Batre

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BRADY’S FAVORITE SPOT IS THE BACK PORCH, LOUNGING ON A THRIFT-STORE SOFA, SURROUNDED

BY SUNSHINE AND MEMORIES.

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There’s a memory attached to every item in this Fairhope couple’s eclectically curated, cabin-style home.

THE STORY HOUSE text by AMANDA HARTIN photos by JUSTIN CORDOVA

I

t’s a scenic drive down County Road 3, past the bustle of downtown Fairhope and into the south end of town where the land, dappled with pines, pecans and oaks, rolls gently. The afternoon sun spills across the path to the Berglins’ dark green cottage, and the breeze carries with it crows from a distant rooster and wafts of smoldering charcoal. Rob is at it again, grilling enough chicken to feed an army. He’s like his mom, Brady says of her husband’s gift of cooking. But that’s not all he got from her.

“She had great taste and great design ideas,” Brady adds of her late motherin-law. “Rob’s got an eye. We can be driving, and he will see something on the side of the road. He will slam on brakes to go look at it.” The dietician-bytrade says that the grill responsible for the deliciously smoky aroma came from a roadside sale in Chiefland, Florida. “He just had to have it. Come on inside,” she continues, “and I’ll give you a little history of the place.”

Zippy the cat darts from behind a bush as Brady crosses the front threshold.

“The best part about this house, to me, is when I walk in, it takes me back to being a child, walking into the Grand Hotel lobby.” She draws in an exaggerated breath and grins. “You smell the wood. It’s so cozy.”

Aside from the polished brick floors, every hardscape in sight is made of cypress, from the ceiling to kitchen cabinets. The warmth of the foyer invites the eye further into the 2,000-square-foot home where not one place has been left unadorned. “It’s just our style,” Brady says of the eclectic furnishings. “I like to call it a mixture between Pee-wee Herman’s playhouse and Cabela’s catalog.” While that description certainly paints a quirky picture, it doesn’t give the whole story of the heart and soul of the home.

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IN THE LIVING ROOM, DAINTY ANTIQUES MIX SEAMLESSLY WITH MOUNTED FISH AND NAUTICAL CHARTS, A STYLE BRADY CALLS “PEE-WEE HERMAN’S PLAYHOUSE MEETS CABELA’S CATALOG.”

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“Everything is here for a reason,” Brady declares, plopping onto a striped slip-covered couch, her favorite seat in the house. A lamp-shaded hula girl, stuck in a perpetual hip swing — a find the couple scored in Key West — glances over her shoulder in anticipation of the homeowner’s next words. “It’s all memories and stories that matter to me. That’s what it’s all about. One of my college roommates told me her family never had anything in their house that wasn’t a souvenir or a memory. I stole the concept. I have no original thoughts, but I love to plagiarize them.” She throws her head back and laughs.

From her sofa, Brady regales with stories of various items around the enclosed back porch. “That was my mama’s chair and her needlepoint,” she says, motioning to an arm chair and frog-embroidered footstool. Among other treasures in here are Brady’s childhood kitchen table, ornaments and tchotchkes from the couple’s travels, framed art, homemade vases from friends and metal sculptures from local talents. With each piece, a memory is enthusiastically shared, including stories sentimental to Rob’s childhood, like his boxcar from Cub Scouts and fishing gear from his grandfather.

Never one to gather dust, Brady is on the move again, showing off the living area, which is open to the kitchen, breakfast area and loft. The room is anchored by a deep, brown leather sectional and a salvaged steamer trunk. With each glance, something new is discovered, like old milk jugs from Brady’s mother’s childhood on the farm

A MIX OF ART (TOP) ADDS PERSONALITY TO THE MASTER SUITE. THIS GROUPING SHOWCASES A CROSS MADE FROM ST. IGNATIUS’S OLD BLEACHERS, A FRAMED PROGRAM FROM THE ATLANTA PREMIERE OF “GONE WITH THE WIND” AND A MERMAID WITH REAL MULLET SKIN TAIL. THE SOOT-TINGED PAINTING AT THE TOP, A PIECE

BY JO PATTON, SURVIVED THE BERGLINS’ 2007 HOUSE FIRE. THE ROUND, WHITE TABLE ON THE PORCH (BOTTOM) IS FROM BRADY’S CHILDHOOD. SHE RECALLS, “MY MOTHER SAID I HAD TO FINISH MY DINNER BEFORE I COULD GO TRICK-OR-TREATING. SO I SAT THERE, STARING AT THE TOMATO ASPIC AND WATCHING THE OTHER KIDS HAVE FUN.”

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AT THE CENTER OF THE BREAKFAST AREA IS BRADY’S GREATGRANDMOTHER’S DINING TABLE, WHICH EXPANDS TO SEAT 16.

COLORFUL ART AND WINE GLASSES FROM AROUND THE WORLD COMPLETE THE SPACE.

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FAMILY IS A TOP PRIORITY FOR BRADY, AS HER VAST COLLECTION OF MEMORIES PROVES. “THAT’S WHERE I USED TO HIDE MY LITTLE BROTHER,” BRADY LAUGHS, SHOWING THE GREEN TOY CHEST (ABOVE) AT THE FOOT OF THE LOFT BED. THE COZY UPSTAIRS AREA IS A GREAT GETAWAY FOR THE BERGLINS’ NEPHEW, JACKSON MAY. ROB (TOP RIGHT), A WELL-KNOWN CATERER, COOKS DINNER MOST NIGHTS IN THE OUTDOOR KITCHEN. A SHELF ON THE PORCH (LOWER RIGHT) HOLDS A HANDFUL OF ROB’S TREASURES, INCLUDING HIS GRANDFATHER’S REELS, A BOXCAR FROM HIS CHILDHOOD AND A SHERBET BOX FROM BERGLIN CREAMERY.

and a ukulele that belonged to Rob’s grandmother. Although Brady would deny it, family relics blend artfully and, seemingly, purposely with new-to-them thrift finds. “Collecting is one of our hobbies,” she concedes. “I love an art or junk store. Every time we travel, we bring back a piece of art and a book. We figure out where it will go later.”

Filling nearly the entire north wall of the living area is a gigantic cabinet with open shelving, a piece Rob spied at Brady’s late uncle’s house. “It’s fantastic and fun,” Brady says, noting it holds everything from wedding china to an old tackle basket. “My mother always said you should have furniture you can store things in, and we do.”

Track lighting, inconspicuous among the home’s sturdy beams, point toward two framed potato sacks flanking an old weather vane.

“I love to frame everything,” Brady laughs, adding she received the sacks for Christmas one year. “Rob’s mother was a Corte, and the Corte family brought farming and Silver Queen corn to the South.

They were, at one point, one of the biggest potato dealers in the United States.”

She scoots, chatting as she goes, from the living area, down the hall

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lined with photos of her large family, past a riotous guest bath filled with colorful pottery — and “caged” metal chickens — and ends in the master suite. It is here that Brady pauses, a bit more solemn than usual. “This is where the fire started. On April 5, 2007, our original ranch house burned.

Some things were totally destroyed; some things made it through.” She points to a painting that now has a slightly blackened tinge. With the help of friends, family, and artisans like Ameri’ca Tickle and builders like Chuck Kelly, the Berglins rebuilt their home from the slab up. “The only two things we insisted on having in the redesign were a loft and an outdoor shower.”

Thirteen years later, the now-cabin-style home is full of life and memories again.

And they use that outdoor shower daily.

Back outside, Rob is busy removing chicken from the grill and keeping an eye on a cast-iron pot of baked beans.

Brady begins boxing up care packages to send home with her day’s visitors, each receiving the caterer’s famous Shube sauce, for good measure. The sun has now sagged below the tree line, and the cafe lights strung from trunk to trunk sparkle on the Berglins’ stoneensconced pool. As the day draws to a close, Rob and Brady head back inside, ready to settle into comfort amongst their treasures. MB

CYPRESS WOOD PLANKS AND PANELING CREATE A WARM, RUSTIC FEELING THROUGHOUT THE BERGLINS’ HOME. “ROB HANDPICKED EVERY PIECE OF WOOD IN HERE,” BRADY SAYS. THE OPEN FLOOR PLAN, CROWNED WITH STURDY BEAMS, ALLOWS A FEELING OF CONNECTEDNESS BETWEEN THE LOFT, LIVING ROOM, BREAKFAST AREA AND KITCHEN. MADELINE MAY (BOTTOM RIGHT) VISITS HER AUNT AND UNCLE’S HOME FREQUENTLY AND THINKS THE ISLAND, MADE BY CHUCK KELLY, IS THE PERFECT SPOT FOR HOMEWORK.

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AN OUTDOOR KITCHEN, STONE TRIM AND DARK GREEN WOOD GIVE THE BERGLINS’ COTTAGE A CAMPY FEEL.

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2020 GIFTS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP FLAMINGO PRINCESS $32 • BIG CITY TOYS STACKING NESTING BOXES • $20 • THE HOLIDAY ICE CREAM PURSE • $29 BIG CITY TOYS CHRISTMAS TREE PORCELAIN TEA SET • $29 THE VISITATION SHOP DINO RACE TOY • $12 THE HOLIDAY KNIT SANTA TOY • $21 THE HOLIDAY

MB makes local holiday shopping easier with over 100 great gift ideas for everyone on your list. text and styling by MAGGIE LACEY photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

This book, written by a professor from USA, will entrance your youngest nature lovers with the story of a jubilee.

JUBILEE BOOK • $17 • ASHLAND GALLERY

Everything you need for a day of make believe.

MY DOCTOR KIT • $16 MARCIE N ME

FELT MERMAID ORNAMENTS $15 • THE GARAGE STUDIO

NUMBERS SIDEWALK CHALK • $12 • BIG CITY TOYS

RED AND GREEN POM POM SWEATER • $53 THE HOLIDAY

The sweetest Scotties are raring to go (to bed).

RACHEL RILEY PJS • $48 • CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

BOATS ARE BUSY BOARD BOOK • $10 • PROVISION

Super cool STEM experiments that kids can do around the house. JUST ADD MILK ($18) SCIENCE AND ART KITS • BIG CITY TOYS

Handmade in Australia, these dolls make sweet collectibles.

HOORAY FOR YOU BOOK $10 • THE VISITATION SHOP

ALIMROSE BALLERINA DOLL • $59 • CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

CROC PILE STACKING PUZZLE $35 • PROVISION

This traveling suitcase comes with a gnome, storybook, adventure journal, magical wooden pen and more. GNOME ON THE ROAM • $32 • BIG CITY TOYS

UNICORN FIGURINE $22 • BIG CITY TOYS

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WOMEN

MULTICOLORED CRYSTAL CUFF BRACELET • $148 • THE HOLIDAY

BLACK LUCITE PURSE • $39 THE GARAGE STUDIO

SEAFOAM CORKCICLE EOLA BUCKET BACKPACK • $120 • THE VISITATION SHOP

GOLD FOIL GLASS BOWL BY BEATRIZ BALL • $73 • THE VISITATION SHOP

JULIE VOSS GREEN STONE BANGLE • $150 • THE GARAGE STUDIO

LOVE POTION NO. 9 ORNAMENT $10 • THE GARAGE STUDIO

Festive lucite art

by Birmingham’s Debra Hewitt.

$38 • CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

COASTAL CANDLES BY WISH HOME & GARDEN • $28 • URBAN EMPORIUM

Twenty-two objects weave together over 300 years of Mobile history, from the pre-Colonial era to now.

A HISTORY OF MOBILE IN 22 OBJECTS • $26 HISTORY MUSEUM OF MOBILE

Who would ever guess that you can stash a shot or two in this gold bangle? FLASK BANGLE • $32 THE GARAGE STUDIO COTTON BANDANA BY HEMLOCK • $14 • CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION HORSEHAIR EARRINGS • $165 CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

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While visions of sugarplums dance in your head...

POLKA DOT NIGHT SHIRT WITH DRAWSTRING TRAVEL BAG • $65 CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

MEN

Take your holiday meat carving up a notch at this year’s dinner table. MIGHTY

RED GINGHAM SHIRT FROM THE OXFORD SHIRT CO. • $80 MCCOY OUTDOORS

CARVER ELECTRIC KNIFE • $59 THE GARAGE STUDIO

Collars for a perfectly proper Southern pooch.

NEEDLEPOINT DOG COLLARS BY SMATHER AND BRANSON • $75 THE HOLIDAY

Just the thing for stashing change and keys with panache.

HAND TURNED PECAN WOOD BOWL • $30 RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER

DRINKING WITH SAINT NICK $20 • THE VISITATION

The perfect stocking stuffer for the dad who loves his gear. NITE IZE REUSABLE GEAR TIE • $6 • MCCOY OUTDOORS

Never lose your keys or your way with these little works of art. HEPCATZ MAP KEYCHAINS • $23 ASHLAND GALLERY

MOBILE BAY MAP ORNAMENT $18 • THE GARAGE STUDIO

These tiny works of art, made locally from recycled aluminum cans, are revving to sit on his desk or windowsill.

RECYCLED CAR ART • $5 • ASHLAND GALLERY

MOBILE CREST TRUCKER HAT $25 • RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER

A fire pit and grill — all in one sleek little package.

BREEO STAINLESS STEEL SMOKELESS FIRE PIT • $339 • RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER

MAP OF THE EASTERN SHORE BELT $54 • THE GARAGE STUDIO HUNTERS STATIONARY BY MAISON DE PAPIER • $12-$28 • CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

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FOODIES & HOSTS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP SUNDAY PROVISIONS PECAN BUTTER • $14 PROVISION

COOP’S SALTED CARAMEL • $10 PROVISION

STONE HOLLOW FARMSTEAD PICKLED PEACHES • $22 • PROVISION

GIRL MEETS DIRT PEAR BALSAMIC SPOON PRESERVES • $12 • PROVISION

MANCHEGO WINE CHIPS • $8 PROVISION

SOUTHERN FARMS CINNAMON PECAN HONEY • $12 • PROVISION

STONE HOLLOW FARMSTEAD PICKLED GREEN TOMATOES • $16 • PROVISION

GALANTINO EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL $42 • PROVISION

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COAST & COTTON CHRISTMAS HAND TOWELS, ASSORTED $20 • THE HOLIDAY

Tie this cutie around a bottle of vino and your gift giving is done. GLASS BOTTLE OPENER ORNAMENT • $17 • THE GARAGE STUDIO

FISH SPATULA BY TOADFISH • $28 MCCOY OUTDOOR COMPANY

Beautiful mortar and pestle handmade in the heart of the civil rights district in Birmingham.

BY CIVIL STONEWARE $45 • CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

PAPER NAPKINS BY PAPER PRODUCT DESIGN • $6 EACH • CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

PEWTER DIP SPREADER • $27 CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

NUTCRACKER MUG BY VIETRI • $54 CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

WOODEN DIP SPREADER • $10 CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

OYSTER BED WITH SEASONINGS FROM THE HAPPY OLIVE • $80 URBAN EMPORIUM

Put the warm smell of the holidays into your home and into your mug. WASSAIL CIDER SPICES BY OLIVE PLUFF & CO. • $20 PROVISION

GOLD LEAF TONGS • $15 • THE GARAGE STUDIO

Hand cast from recycled materials, this platter serves small bites in big style. CENTERPIECE/SERVING PIECE • $140 THE GARAGE STUDIO

WASSAIL WINE SPICES BY OLIVER PLUFF & CO. • $20 PROVISION

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BIG KIDS

Locally made and just the right size. STUD EARRINGS • $9 EACH • RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER

PURAVIDA BRACELET, ASSORTED $6 • RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER

CAMO CORKCICLE $38 • MARCIE N ME

Functional and hilarious.

CHINESE TAKEOUT BOX PURSE $28 • BIG CITY TOYS

MINI BOOM BOX BY BOOM BOX COUTURE • $52 • BIG CITY TOYS

MOON PUZZLE• $18 BIG CITY TOYS

STATIONERY BY MAISON DE PAPIER, ASSORTED • $12 - $28 • CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

Perfect size for a young man with just a few things to carry. LEATHER CARD HOLDER WALLET • $32 MCCOY OUTDOOR COMPANY

QUE EXPANDABLE WATER BOTTLES $25 • RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER

DR. BOB SHIPP’S GUIDE TO FISHES OF THE GULF OF MEXICO (AUTOGRAPHED COPY) $27 • MCCOY OUTDOOR COMPANY

Every teen wants a hammock, and these prints are super cool.

YUKON OUTFITTERS HAMMOCK • $80 • RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER

Each faux match has an idea to spark something new.

SPARK MATCHBOOK STICKS, ASSORTED • $13 THE GARAGE STUDIO

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STAR WARS LEGOS • $85 BIG CITY TOYS

J. BAILEY BELT • $36 EACH • THE HOLIDAY

WHERE TO SHOP THE BAY AREA IS FULL OF SHOPS WITH HARD-TO-FIND AND NEVER-BEFORE-SEEN GIFTS FOR EVERYONE ON YOUR LIST. THIS YEAR, MORE THAN EVER, SHOPPING LOCAL MATTERS!

BIG CITY TOYS 4504 OLD SHELL ROAD. 308-8997.

CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION 19130 SCENIC HIGHWAY 98, FAIRHOPE. 929-1630.

THE GARAGE STUDIO 17070 SCENIC HIGHWAY 98, POINT CLEAR. 928-3474.

THE HOLIDAY 4513 OLD SHELL ROAD. 342-4911.

MARCIE N ME 8150 COTTAGE HILL ROAD. 634-4844.

ORNAMENT • $17 • THE GARAGE STUDIO

This pelican has its eye on you. LIVING

RESOURCES ASHLAND GALLERY 2321 OLD SHELL ROAD. 479-3548.

Just one of many hilarious ornaments that will give you something to smile about this holiday season. GLASS ALLIGATOR

MCCOY OUTDOOR COMPANY 3498 SPRINGHILL AVE. 473-1080.

PROVISION 100 N SECTION ST., FAIRHOPE. 850-5004.

RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER 4354 OLD SHELL ROAD. 217-7466.

URBAN EMPORIUM 260 DAUPHN ST. 441-8044.

GLASS PELICAN ORNAMENT $17 • THE GARAGE STUDIO

Handblown perfection, made in Mobile. GLASS BALL ORNAMENT $30 • ASHLAND GALLERY

THE VISITATION SHOP 2300 SPRINGHILL AVE. 471-4106.

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EXTRAS | CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Fall into November!

NOVEMBER 5 7TH ANNUAL INSPIRING WOMEN’S CONFERENCE 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Designed to motivate, inspire, connect and celebrate women.

INSPIRINGWOMENONTHECOAST.COM HERON LAKES COUNTRY CLUB

FALL OUTDOOR CASCADING CHRYSANTHEMUMS

NOVEMBER 5 - 8

THROUGH NOVEMBER

NOVEMBER 1 - 30

DORI DECAMILLIS: READ MY MIND Artist Dori DeCamillis’ paintings are selfportraits depicting her own states of mind.

FALL OUTDOOR CASCADING CHRYSANTHEMUMS Come see the nation’s largest outdoor cascading chrysanthemums show.

MOBILE MUSEUM OF ART MOBILEMUSEUMOFART.COM

THROUGH JANUARY 2021 HISTORY OF MOBILE IN 22 OBJECTS The 300-year history of the Port City is represented in this collection of 22 objects.

BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME BELLINGRATH.ORG

THE PACT THEATRE COMPANY THEPACTMOBILE.COM/DESCENDANTS

NOVEMBER 6 - 23 GREATER GULF STATE FAIR Take in the view of the biggest midway on the Gulf Coast atop the Ferris wheel.

THE GROUNDS GREATERGULFSTATEFAIR.COM

NOVEMBER 7 TOYS FOR TOTS KICKOFF MOTORCYCLE RIDE 9 a.m. Registration. 11 a.m. Ride begins. Bring a new and unwrapped toy to donate.

USS ALABAMA BATTLESHIP MEMORIAL PARK USSALABAMA.COM

NOVEMBER 1 PUMPKIN SMASH 1 - 3 p.m. Bring your Halloween pumpkins and test the laws of gravity.

HISTORY MUSEUM OF MOBILE HISTORYMUSEUMOFMOBILE.COM

EXPLOREUM SCIENCE CENTER EXPLOREUM.COM

SATURDAYS THRU NOVEMBER 21

NOVEMBER 1

MARKET IN THE PARK 7:30 a.m. - Noon. Downtown Mobile’s farmers market is back, featuring fresh produce, baked goods, meats and more.

WEDDINGS TO BRAG ABOUT Noon - 5 p.m. The region’s best vendors will be present to answer questions.

CATHEDRAL SQUARE FACEBOOK.COM/MARKETSINMOBILE

“DESCENDANTS: THE MUSICAL” Based on the popular Disney Channel Original Movies, this musical comedy is appropriate for all ages.

CENTRAL PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH FACEBOOK.COM/WEDDINGSTOBRAGABOUTBRIDALSHOW

NOVEMBER 8 WALK TO END ALZHEIMER’S Walk your neighborhood in an effort to raise funds and awareness. Details online.

NEIGHBORHOOD EVENT ACT.ALZ.ORG

NOVEMBER 11 VETERANS DAY CONCERT 7 - 9 p.m. End the day with a concert by the Mobile Symphonic Pops Band.

USS ALABAMA BATTLESHIP MEMORIAL PARK USSALABAMA.COM

 To have your event included in the online or print edition of Mobile Bay Magazine, email calendar@pmtpublishing.com.

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NOVEMBER 12 USA FLUTE CHOIR AND CELTIC CRÚE FALL CONCERT 7:30 p.m. Enjoy the concert, directed by Dr. Andra Bohnet, from home.

LIVE STREAM EVENT • SOUTHALABAMA.EDU/COLLEGES/MUSIC/LIVESTREAM

NOVEMBER 12 - 13 THE FAIRHOPE FILM FESTIVAL 6 p.m. View double-feature movies outdoors in drive-in theater style.

Admission: $30 per car.

OAK HOLLOW FARM FAIRHOPEFILMFESTIVAL.ORG

NOVEMBER 13 - 15 CHRISTMAS JUBILEE 9 a.m. - Noon. VIP shopping. 2 - 6 p.m.

General admission. The Gulf Coast’s greatest holiday market features a variety of merchants from around the country under one roof. Admission: $30, VIP; $10, advance; $12 at the door.

MOBILE CONVENTION CENTER JUNIORLEAGUEMOBILE.ORG

NOVEMBER 14 ABBY FAIR ARTS & CRAFT FESTIVAL 10:30 a.m. - 3 p.m. The second annual family-friendly event features vendors, concessions, live performances and more.

LOBLOLLY FARM FACEBOOK.COM/LOBLOLLYFARMMARKETING

NOVEMBER 15 BARN BASH 5 p.m. BBQ, auction and live music, all benefitting the Children’s of Alabama Pediatric Rheumatology Clinic in Mobile.

O’DALY’S IRISH PUB GIVE.CHILDRENSAL.ORG/BARNBASH

* Check event websites for most current status.

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NOVEMBER 18 FACEBOOK LIVE TALK: MARITIME HISTORY OF MOBILE 2 - 3 p.m. John Sledge, author and historian, navigates the history of life, commerce and conflict on Mobile’s waters.

FACEBOOK LIVE EVENT FACEBOOK.COM/RESTOREMOBILE

NOVEMBER 20 CHRISTMAS MASQUERADE GALA 6:30 - 9 p.m. This elegant evening includes a lights display preview, hors d’oeuvres, drinks and live entertainment.

BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME BELLINGRATH.ORG

NOVEMBER 21 FAMILY FARM DAY 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Come for a day of demonstrations, shopping, food trucks and alpacas.

HUMMINGSTAR ALPACA FARM, SILVERHILL FACEBOOK.COM/HUMMINGSTARALPACAS

NOVEMBER 27 - DECEMBER 31 MAGIC CHRISTMAS IN LIGHTS Take a nighttime walk through the 65-acre garden estate and enjoy the dazzling display.

BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME BELLINGRATH.ORG

SAENGER THEATRE MOVIE SERIES mobilesaenger.com

Catch a flick inside the historic theatre.

Limited concessions available, and social distancing guidelines will be followed.

Admission: $6, adults; $3, ages 60+; $3, ages 12 and under.

FROZEN November 1, 3 p.m.

GHOST

November 5, 7 p.m.

JAILHOUSE ROCK

November 12, 7 p.m.

FOOTLOOSE

November 19, 7 p.m.

THE BRIDGE ON THE RIVER KWAI November 22, 3 p.m.

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MOBILE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA: A BOUNTIFUL HOLIDAY

[DECEMBER HIGHLIGHTS]

DECEMBER 3 WINE AND WISHES Raise a glass at this Make-A-Wish fundraiser.

EZELL HOUSE, CONTI STREET • EVENTBRITE.COM/E/ WINE-WISHES-2020-TICKETS-121729330705

DECEMBER 4 BLACK TIE BALL Unforgettable night hosted by the Alabama School of the Arts at the University of Mobile.

ALABAMA CONTEMPORARY ART CENTER UMOBILE.EDU/BLACKTIE

DECEMBER 4 - 6 HOLIDAY MARKET AT THE PILLARS This annual tradition features Santa, shopping and hot chocolate, oh my!

THE PILLARS, GOVERNMENT STREET THEPILLARSOFMOBILE.COM

DECEMBER 5 - 6 CHRISTMAS BOUTIQUE BASH Holiday shopping, Santa, food trucks, performances and more.

THE GROUNDS WHATEVERMINISTRY.COM/CHRISTMAS-IN-JULY

DECEMBER 12 - 13 MOBILE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA: A BOUNTIFUL HOLIDAY Celebrate the holidays with an old-fashioned variety show.

SAENGER THEATRE MOBILESYMPHONY.ORG

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HISTORY | LEGENDS

Madoc’s Mark: The Persistence of an Alabama Legend Historian John Sledge explores the riddle of Prince Madoc, the Welsh explorer who, according to legend, discovered the New World via Mobile Bay three centuries before Columbus. text by JOHN SLEDGE

T

ucked securely behind the Richards DAR House Museum in downtown Mobile is a most unusual artifact. If one politely asks the docent, she will graciously direct the way to the courtyard where it stands neatly sandwiched between a merrily plashing fountain and an ivied brick wall. The object in question is a large, bright green metal plaque that displays the Welsh flag and two short paragraphs of text. “In memory of Prince Madoc,” it states, “a Welsh explorer, who landed on the shores of Mobile Bay in 1170 and left behind, with the Indians, the Welsh language.” It goes on to cite several sources for this extraordinary pronouncement,

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including the 16th-century writer Richard Hakluyt, the 1918 edition of “Webster’s Encyclopedia,” “Ridpath’s History of the World” (1894) and the existence of strange mid-South stone fortifications that resemble medieval Welsh castles.

Alabama lays claim to many mysteries and riddles, but that of Madoc is surely the most intriguing. Who was this fantastical figure, did he exist and did he actually discover the New World more than three centuries before Columbus? Might a clinker-built oaken cog have worked her way up Mobile Bay nearly 700 years ago, her lone mast bearing a salt-stained sail emblazoned with a red dragon, while bearded white men grunted at her oars and dark Indian eyes pondered them from the cane? Unfortunately, nothing to do with the Madoc story is as straightforward as the plaque behind the DAR House would have its readers believe. In fact, the plaque itself is an inextricable element of the questionable saga. But, first, the man.

Alas, there isn’t much to tell if we cleave to known historical fact. Madoc was said to be an illegitimate son of King Owain Gwynedd, a violent ruler who “left behind him many children gotten upon divers women.” After Gwynedd’s death, the sons warred with one another over the succession.

Revolted by the spectacle and fearful of assassination, Madoc and a small band of followers sailed away, chasing the sun west over the gray Atlantic.

That’s pretty much it. But then the bards took hold of the story, telling and retelling it around crackling fires on cold winter nights. By the 16th century, poets and historians began writing the tale down, embellishing as they went. One such fellow, Meredith ap Rhys, offered what he said was an accurate translation. A particularly memorable quatrain reads, “Madoc I am the sonne of Owen Gwynedd/With stature large and comely grace adorned;/No lande at home nor store of wealth me please/My minde was whole to search the Ocean Seas.”

It didn’t take long before more practically oriented Englishmen discerned the legend’s utility. Not only did Madoc sail west, they proclaimed, but he discovered the Americas before Columbus. This handily trumped Spain’s claims to the New World. In 1578, one John Dee managed an audience with Queen Elizabeth. He shared his research and explained, “The Lord Madoc … led a Colonie and inhabited Terra Florida or thereabouts.”

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This news suited Elizabeth just fine, and she promptly issued a royal patent for colonization that eventually led to Sir Walter Raleigh’s doomed Roanoke expedition.

By the 18th century, the Madoc legend was well-established, widely believed among the gentry and loudly championed

by Welsh scholars. Well-circulated stories of fair-skinned, blue-eyed Indians who knew the Welsh language were taken as proof that Madoc’s men had indeed settled in America and left descendants. In a letter, former Tennessee Governor John Sevier added heft to the claims with his description of a conversation he said he had with an elderly Cherokee chief. The chief said that the stone fortifications found in north Alabama, Georgia and Tennessee were built by “a people called Welsh, and they had crossed the Great Water and landed first near the mouth of the Alabama River near Mobile and had been driven up to the heads of the waters until they arrived at Highwassee River.”

This fit neatly with Sevier’s view of Native Americans as savages, incapable of building stone forts. It is not unlikely that the Cherokee chief was telling him what he believed Sevier wanted to hear.

From the time of Sevier’s account, Madoc’s landfall has been consistently linked with Mobile Bay. By the early 1950s, Hatchett Chandler, the colorful attendant at Fort Morgan, latched onto the legend with an iron grip and convinced the Virginia Cavalier Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution, to erect a marker on Mobile Point stating it as fact.

Thousands of tourists read the marker over the decades, and the story even crept into Alabama schools’ history textbooks, where it stubbornly remained until the 1980s.

Since Chandler’s death in 1967, historians and archaeologists have steadily dismantled the Madoc legend, including the Mobile Bay landfall. The commemorative marker remained in place until Hurricane Frederic blew it down in 1979. It was stored away and eventually returned to the DAR chapter that had originally commissioned it.

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Above The restored Madoc marker is located behind the Richards DAR House on Joachim Street in downtown Mobile.

to do with the marker, however. Placing it back on Mobile Point was out of the question given the legend’s doubtful veracity.

But as they soon discovered, the legend still has passionate advocates. In 2008, the BBC reported that the Alabama Welsh Society wanted the marker re-erected. “Mobile could and should capitalize on this, not hide it in a storage shed,” the society’s vice president said. “Prince Madoc is too important to Alabama’s history to have the only plaque in our state commemorating him disappear.”

After careful consideration, the DAR eventually agreed, with a twist. To preserve and interpret the marker in a responsible manner, the ladies restored it and placed it behind their Joachim Street headquarters, with an explanatory brochure available inside. And there the Madoc marker stands today, its text the blended fruit of medieval bardic embellishment, Elizabethan realpolitik, 18th-century racism and good old American hucksterism served up as fact.

Surely one of the most complicated backstories ever! MB John S. Sledge is the author of “The Gulf of Mexico: A Maritime History.”

The Richards DAR House at 256 N Joachim St. is open M, W - F 11 a.m. – 3:30 p.m., Sa 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., and Su 1 – 4 p.m. Admission is $10 for adults, $5 for children ages 5 - 12. november 2020 | mobilebaymag.com 69

THE ARTS | LITERATURE

We Say Grace Writer Audrey McDonald Atkins reminds us there is more than one way to bless our food. excerpt from the book THEY CALL ME OR ANGE JUICE

by AUDREY MCDONALD ATKINS

W

e say grace.

Here in the Bible Belt, rarely a meal starts without someone saying grace — a prayer of devotion and gratitude — before the family dives in. We give thanks for the nourishment of our bodies and souls. We give thanks for the blessing of another day. We give thanks for family and friends.

Grace can take many forms. As children, we recited the singsongy: God is great.

God is good.

Let us thank Him for our food.

By His hands we all are fed.

Thank you, Lord, for daily bread.

As smart-aleck teenagers, we raced through with: Good bread. Good meat.

Good God, let’s eat.

My Episcopalian family tended to stick with the semistaid: Bless this food to our use and us to Thy service, And make us ever mindful of the needs of others.

I always thought that was especially

nice since it included a sentiment of personal growth and good works.

Depending on who was chosen to say grace, we might also use the equally formal: Bless us, oh Lord, and these Thy gifts, Which we are about to receive from Thy bounty Through Christ, our Lord.

Or Daddy’s favorite: Come, Lord Jesus, our guest to be, And bless these gifts bestowed by Thee.

Other religions seemed to always ad lib — what a friend of mine called the “Jesus weejus” prayer: Jesus, we just gather here today …

Jesus, we just want to thank you for …

Jesus, we just want to ask you …

You get the idea.

However it plays out, the act of saying grace traditionally and faithfully, no matter your religion, brings great focus to a family meal and connects everyone in a quiet moment of contemplation before the chaos of life continues around the table. There is great humility in the recognition of a higher power and the realization that the world is greater than what’s out-

side our front door. And in a society so focused on getting and having, the very act of giving thanks reminds us that we should appreciate how fortunate we are and help those who are less so.

I knew people growing up who never said grace. It seemed very odd to me to sit down at the table and just start serving your plate. Rude, even. I also remember dinners on the church grounds, homecomings, and family reunions where the prayers would carry on so long I thought I might die of starvation before the blessing ever ended. In either case, whether it’s so short you barely get your eyes closed or so long you wind up peeking to see who’s sneaking a biscuit, grace always ends with a rousing “Amen!”

Unless you are Uncle Red. Whenever the designated sayer of grace would finish in the traditional manner, Uncle Red would wink at me and continue on with: Amen! Brother Ben Shot a rooster. Killed a hen.

Hen died.

Ben cried.

And all went home satisfied.

And only then it was time to eat. MB

 Born and raised in Citronelle, Atkins shares stories about growing up and living in the South in her book, “They Call Me Orange Juice,” and at her blog folkwaysnowadays.com.

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HISTORY | ASK MCGEHEE

What is the history of Bienville Square? text by TOM MCGEHEE

Mobile’s signature park began as a planned location for a city hall.

When the first Marine Hospital was built in 1824, Congress turned over the site of the old Spanish hospital to Mobile. Following the financial panic of 1837, the city hall idea was scrapped and the property was offered for sale. It was then discovered that the original transfer from the government had come with a provision — the land could not be sold and was to be held for the good of the public.

The cash-strapped city leased a portion to an adjoining livery stable, which used it as a corral for their horses, while cows and hogs roamed an adjoining parcel. In 1842, two circuses rented the southeast and southwest corners for their shows.

Trees, Balloons and a Deadly Fence Mobile’s economy improved, and in 1847, Mayor J. W. L. Childers began a beautification project, planting trees on the property.

Childers’ trees were still small enough that the square could be used for a balloon ascension in January 1855. A professor hailing from Paris brought his “Comet,” which, as Mobile’s newspapers explained, he planned to use to establish a gas-filled balloon service connecting the nation with California. It would run on a schedule like a train and carry both freight and passengers.

Swarms of Mobilians watched the Frenchman try for three days to get the balloon to cooperate. To their disappointment, he gave up, blaming the inferior quality of the locally supplied gas.

In 1856, a movement was underway to raise funds for a cast-iron fence, costing $7,000. Proponents soon complained that the public would “cheerfully give 50 or 75 cents to see trained monkeys or magicians yet grudge a like amount for the embellishment of our city!” Adequate funds were eventually raised, and the ornate fence was in place by 1858. In 1860, a centerpiece was added in the 72 mobilebaymag.com | november 2020

Above Pen and ink drawing of Bienville Square, January 1881. DRAWING BY MARIAN ACKER MACPHERSON

form of “a handsome mound with a life-like buck placed upon its summit forming a most attractive figure.”

In 1865, with Mobile about to topple as the last major city of the Confederacy, the cotton from riverfront warehouses was hauled to Bienville Square with plans to set it afire rather than surrender it to the enemy. Cooler heads prevailed, and the park and its trees were spared from an inferno.

The following year, what had been called the “Public Square” was officially renamed for Bienville. It was reported in 1871 that the “keeper of Bienville Square has improved its appearance by trimming the trees and cutting down decayed water oaks. The planting of rows of live oaks will help to beautify our little square.”

That may have been the last of the improvements for a while. Mobile’s economy plummeted in the post-Civil War years. City debts mounted, resulting in civic bankruptcy by 1879.

By the 1880s, the fence surrounding the

square was in disrepair. A little boy climbing a corner post grabbed a decorative finial, and both crashed to the ground with fatal results. The fence was torn up for scrap, and a reporter wrote, “The gloomy prison-like fence has been removed.”

Bubbling in the Summer Sun Bienville Square got a much-needed makeover in 1890 with the announcement that a tiered cast-iron fountain honoring Dr. George Ketchum, founder of the Bienville Water Works, would be installed at the park’s center. The mound was removed, and the “monarch of the woods” cast-iron buck statue was relocated to Washington Square.

Not everyone was pleased by the changes planned for Bienville Square. When plans called for oaks to be removed to make room for the fountain, some Mobilians were outraged. One wrote, “What sacrilege, what ruthless vandalism to contemplate cutting down the circle of live-oaks in the center of the square for a miserable fountain to bubble

in the summer sun! We need shade in which to rest the tired body!” The fountain won out, and within a few years, it was bubbling in a shady spot.

The 20th Century The park got its first bandstand in 1903 — a simple circular platform with a roof. (It was replaced by a larger version, donated by Sears Roebuck in 1941, which survives.) When popular Mayor Pat Lyons took office in 1904, he started a beautification program, planting more trees as well as flowers in Bienville Square. As automobile traffic exploded in the 1920s, a group of Downtown merchants suggested that Bienville Square be replaced by a parking lot. That plan, happy to say, was quickly shot down.

As retail businesses abandoned Downtown for the malls to the west in the 1960s, Bienville Square became seedier. Towering lights more suitable for a freeway were installed for safety.

And just as things seemed to hit rock bottom, in 1979 a hurricane named Frederic arrived and decimated the square’s tree canopy.

A Rebound That hurricane, as well as an interest in revitalizing downtown Mobile, led to the restoration of Bienville Square. An organization called Streetscapes was formed, and money was raised to restore and replant the square.

Ultimately, the Ketchum Fountain was sent for restoration, and a growing list of events were once again held in the heart of Mobile.

Those popular events have led to the ground being compacted atop the roots of the oaks, which makes turf growth nearly impossible.

A few years ago, a planner announced that if a number of those oaks were taken out, more grass could grow. That idea was about as popular as the notion to replace the park with a parking lot.

The recent hurricane, Sally, may have hurt that arching tree canopy, but it is not the first time. Mobilians have been in love with their live oaks since the beginning, and they will return to this special square which has been described as the one “all parades have paraded around, all political affairs centered in, and the focus of public mourning and public rejoicing.” MB november 2020 | mobilebaymag.com 73

END PIECE | IN LIVING COLOR

Oyster Bar, c. 1930 Original photo courtesy S. Blake McNeely Collection, The Doy Leale McCall Rare Book and Manuscript Library, University of South Alabama • Colorization by Dynamichrome Limited

Mobile Bay’s history of oyster fishing, shucking and eating predates European explorers, as evidenced by the mounds of shells they discovered on Dauphin Island upon their arrival. This abundance of shells later became ingrained in our city, quite literally, as some roads were paved with these mollusk casings. Here, a group of men line up along a bar, casually eating a fresh batch of the Bay’s culinary delight on the half shell. The sign in the background reads, "Regular oysters for regular men, cock oysters for cocksmen."

Records indicate the photo, dated some time around 1930, was taken at “Gill’s.” The city’s directory lists a “Gill Printing Company” and a “Gill Lumber” in operation around that time, so the exact location of this feast is unknown. Also noted on the photo is the identity of the man on the front right, Wayne Palmer, presumably of Wilberding & Palmer, Inc., the engineering firm that oversaw construction of the Bankhead Tunnel. Palmer would later work on another massive project, the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway.

Do you recognize this place or anyone in this photo? Let us know!

Email ahartin@pmtpublishing.com.

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