6 minute read
How Did IPL Get Such A Bad Rap? By Lashana Shepherd
When did IPL become such a dirty word? I hear so many in our industry say things like: “I would never use an IPL”, “IPL’s are inferior”, “Lasers are better”, or “IPL’s just burn people”.
But where did this opinion stem from? And why are so many shying away from IPL devices?
There is a reason why IPL is still used widely in the industry and is seen being used by some of our industry’s biggest names - and that is because it is not as terrible as some may think!
Blaming the IPL machine itself is much like having a car crash and blaming the car. Machines don’t have a mind of their own, and while of course there are incidences where the machine may be to blame, more often than not it is an operator error. IPL and Laser have a lot of variables; from filters, to gauges, to pulse widths, joules, spot size; there are many parameters that need to be correctly executed in order to operate either machine safely.
Intense Pulsed Light, just like a Laser, works on controlled and selective photothermolysis, meaning we are able to target a singular chromophore at one time; so provided we are selecting the correct parameters, assessing the skin and the client thoroughly beforehand and doing our due diligence, the risk of damage or trauma to healthy tissue is actually minute.
In reality, both Laser and IPL have the same risk of causing burns and healthy tissue damage.
IPL was originally developed to treat vascular conditions such as telangiectasia as an alternative to pulsed dye laser treatments. Even today, IPL is a gold-standard treatment for skin conditions such as sun damage and vascular lesions. It’s an IPL’s ability to scatter under the skin that often deems it ‘unsafe’ - however it’s this exact ability that can be used to our advantage when treating these skin conditions.
Let’s look at freckles. Starting at the base of the epidermis, these little Ephelides make their way through the layers of the skin before becoming apparent on the surface. This is why so many of our client’s freckles light up like a Christmas Tree under a woodslamp! While there may be several apparent freckles on the surface of the skin, we can almost always guarantee there is plenty of pigment hiding in those underlying layers.
When treating with a Laser, being that it is a more concentrated beam, sees us treat only the apparent surface freckles and a very controlled portion underneath the skin, which can be seen as more controlled, however will often lead to more treatments needing to be performed, less targeting of any skin bronzing, and the deeper, underlying freckles can remain untouched. This can result in either a stagnation of treatment results, the need to pivot to a different treatment medium such as needling or chemical peels to target the deeper layers, and/or more maintenance treatments required as these freckles will eventually make their way to the surface over time.
Because the IPL light scatters under the skin, it is able to target not only the obvious surface pigment but also spans deeper and wider, targeting more underlying melanin, leading to a much more effective clearance of deeper pigment and bronzing, along with better longevity. This principle can be applied to vascular lesions, and even hair removal for those deemed less suitable.
Then there is the quality of the equipment. With the internet at our fingertips and highlevel aesthetic devices being high cost and high maintenance, many can be forced to buy cheaper less reputable IPL devices to fit their budget; however, some still expect them to operate and have the capabilities of a 100,000-dollar Laser device.
Much like trying to race a Porsche in a Toyota Corolla, it just won’t be able to keep up.
High-end devices, due their components, technology, and build, will come at a higher price point, so generally speaking the more money spent on a device will often mean more power, more parameters, more treatment options, better cooling mechanisms - for both Laser and IPL.
So why are IPLs able to be manufactured and purchased at such a low-cost? IPL’s main components such as wiring, flash lamp and filtration system (if any) can come in all shapes, sizes, and qualities…. and prices. While a Laser’s fiber optics system and crystal components, well, there are no real cheap alternatives for these. Now, I’m not suggesting every business owner should go out and buy an expensive, top of the range IPL device; however, it is about knowing your machine’s limitations.
Finally, buying less reputable equipment, in-person or online, can often mean that no training is provided with your purchase. You might receive a training booklet and perhaps a sheet of recommended base parameters, but do you know what your desired endpoint of the treatment is? Can you manipulate the parameters or change them at all? Do you know how to troubleshoot the device? What is the required maintenance? Who can you call when there is an issue? What conditions can it treat? What are the contraindications? No training, regardless of the device, will almost always lead to more reactions, side effects and issues.
So next time you are on the hunt for a new piece of technology, don’t count out an IPL device! I myself preached the inferiority of IPL’s for years; however, it was only once I was working closely with these devices and seeing the incredible results it is able to achieve for myself that completely converted me. I can almost guarantee it will go above and beyond your expectations.
As always, make sure to do your research before buying any piece of technology, and remember that training in that particular piece of equipment will always give you and your machine the best chance at delivering incredible and safe results.
Lashana. x
ABOUT LASHANA
From your Beauty Expo keynote speaker, educational webinar host to even your aesthetic technology educator, Lashana Shepherd has no doubt been on your radar over the past few years. Lashana’s 13-year career started as a therapist working in day spas, medispas, laser clinics and with doctors before moving into the training and education space. A previous Training and Education Manager, Lashana played an integral role in developing and delivering industry-leading education programs for prominent aesthetic technology across Australia and New Zealand. Throughout her diverse career, Lashana realised that therapists were not equipped with all the tools they needed to confidently and effectively deliver treatments. Sure, there was an abundance of training available but the resources that came with them needed to be more engaging, easy to follow and exciting to learn. Lashana now pairs her clinical expertise, deep understanding of our industry and creative flair to build learning resources for therapists like never before. Known across the industry for her infectious enthusiasm and signature bold lip, Lashana shares with us her career highlights, her passion for technology and what excites her most about the future of the industry.
