The Foundation Guide

By Charlotte Ravet

A little guide on foundation formulas never hurts! I am often asked about foundations and which formula to choose based on the skin type, coverage, and finish.

The foundation’s purpose is to even out the skin tone and create a nice complexion. Additionally, the foundation protects the skin from environmental elements such as pollution and dirt. A concealer, however, is recommended for concealing imperfections.

A few formulas even contain skincare ingredients, such as moisturising and hydrating agents or an SPF. Due to their light coverage and difficulty mixing colours, cushions and tinted creams are usually reserved for personal use. Makeup artists like to create custom shades for their clients. For this reason, we often choose formulas and packaging that we can mix from.

A few things have to be taken into consideration when selecting a foundation: -The skin type -The coverage -The finish:

Composition:

Foundations have different formulas that are going to impact the longevity and result of the application. Foundation may contain ingredients such as Aqua (purified water), cetyl alcohol, glycerine, waxes (including beeswax), butylene or propylene glycol, and pigments.

Silicon-based foundations:

A silicone-based foundation is a makeup foundation that mainly contains silicones such as dimethicone and Cyclomethicone. You can identify silicon-based foundations as they have ingredients ending in-cone. Even if the first ingredient is water or aqua, it doesn’t mean that the foundation is necessarily waterbased. Silicon-based foundations have a satin finish. They set onto the skin and require little or no use of powder. They can also be found as airbrush foundations/products and are often called ‘SB” airbrush products.

Texture:Silicone-based foundations are usually cream or liquid.

Application: Silicone-based foundations can be applied with a blending brush or a sponge after applying with a foundation brush. You might need to work a bit faster than with other foundations, as silicone-based foundations set onto the skin.

Specificities: As silicone-based foundations are water-resistant, they are ideal for longlasting makeup. Silicone Some brands have also created silicon-based mixing mediums that can be mixed with an existing foundation. Skin Type: Perfect for normal to oily skin and can add a bit of texture to dry and mature skin. Skin types: Dry and sensitive skin only.

Wax-based foundations:

Wax-based foundations typically contain beeswax as a binding agent. It is possible to It often comes in a pan as a cream. Professional brands offer a wide choice of palettes with wax-based foundations. Waxbased foundations do not usually contain water and have a longer shelf life.

Application: Wax-based foundations can be used alone or mixed with a mixing medium such as silicon, oil, or cream. To achieve light coverage, apply only a small amount of product and blend it into the skin. To create a beautiful finish, wax-based foundations can be warmed up at the application when working with a blending sponge or buffering brush.

Specificities: Depending on the blending and use of mixing mediums and the application, the coverage can be light to full. Waxed-based foundations can also be used as concealers or as contour products.

Skin type: Any skin type. You can also change the texture using an oil-based mixing medium for dry skin or a silicon-based mixing medium for oily skin and long-lasting makeup.

Oil-based foundations:

Cream or liquid. It is a water-in-oil formula. After application, the water evaporates, leaving the pigments in oil on the skin. Oil will usually be listed as the second or third ingredient in the ingredients list.

Application: Foundation brush and the blending brush to smooth the texture or sponges. Set with loose translucent powder.

Water-based foundations:

Water-based foundations are liquid, usually thin, but some cream foundations might also be water-based. They are oil-in-water emulsions. Pigments are emulsified in a small amount of oil with a large amount of water.

Application: You can apply it with a foundation brush and blending brush, sponges or even fingers. Water-based foundations can easily be used on the face and body. The application time is usually shorter than for oilbased foundations.

Specificities: Water-based foundations can achieve different coverage depending on the consistency and the formula. A water-based foundation is also great for tinting the skin, for example, to enhance skin tone slightly with a natural result.

Skin types: All skin types but particularly recommended for oily skin or skin prone to blemishes as they contain more water than oil.

Mineral foundations:

Mineral foundations are becoming more popular and can be used on all skin types. They are particularly great for sensitive skin as they do not hold bacteria and contain fewer ingredients. Common ingredients found in mineral makeup include but are not limited to titanium dioxide, mica, zinc oxide, silica, kaolin, and clay. The result and longevity at the application will also depend on the quality of the ingredients used for mineral makeup.

Application: Mineral makeup usually comes as a powder that needs to be blended onto the skin.

Specificities: Mineral makeup is very safe to use on all skin types, but due to its texture, water, and oil free, it can be challenging to achieve a particular coverage and use other products over it. Mineral makeup should also be used carefully on mature skins or skins with texture, as mineral makeup can set into wrinkles and scars.

How to prevent foundations from oxidising is another question I often receive. There is no specific ingredient that causes the foundation to oxidise. Oxidation results from the interaction between the formula and pigments with the air, humidity, and the skin’s natural PH. This can cause the foundation to change colour slightly after application. Using a primer and a sheerer coverage can help prevent this from happening.

All skin types and needs can be met with a foundation! Be sure to mix the same foundation and different shades if you decide to mix other foundations. Mixing different formulas can impact the longevity of your makeup!

About Charlotte:

It was while studying at La Sorbonne in Paris that Charlotte Ravet’s creativity was sparked. After earning her Bachelors in History of Arts and Politics she decided to follow her true passion, beginning her studies as a make-up artist. Her natural gifts didn’t go unnoticed.

Charlotte’s talents were in high demand as she worked for major European television stations and on celebrities like Robbie Williams, the Glee cast, and presenters of major events like Paris fashion week. After beginning work as a supervising make-up artist for Prada and MiuMiu’s private runway and launch events, Charlotte’s career expanded further, seeing her deliver live seminars at L’Oreal Paris, demonstrating the latest trends.

Her artistry has even hung on the walls of the Henner Museum in Paris as part of photographer Stephane Casali’s exhibit. Sponsored by major cosmetics companies such as Yves Saint Laurent, Clairns, L’Oreal and Mac, it was no surprise Charlotte was granted a Distinguished Talent Visa. As part of this elite group, Charlotte earned permanent residency in Australia. Here Charlotte began collaborating with top Australian photographers, her innovative versatility seen in advertising campaigns, at fashion events, in print, in music videos, and on some of Australia’s most beautiful faces, like Simon Baker and Stephanie Claire Smith.

After becoming a finalist at the Face2Face awards, Charlotte began to share her expertise, designing and running her own master classes, while working as an educator for academies and hosting workshops for makeup artists across Australia. Charlotte has taught make-up students and performers at N.I.D.A. developed workshops for Maqpro, Franck Provost, and Marie France and created and developed the beauty advisor training program for Manicare and Priceline.

After being the head educator for a leading makeup academy in Melbourne, Charlotte came back to Paris as the International retail and artistry education trainer for the brand By Terry. Professionalism, vibrancy, and above all, outstanding skill have seen Charlotte Ravet sought out in this industry by professionals and students alike. We cater for the modern consumer with textures sensations but importantly our skincare, liquid and baked foundations have a near-cult following and high levels of repeat purchases.