The Windows to the Soul

By Charlotte Ravet

When I tell people that I am a makeup artist, the number one question I often receive is: “how should I do my eye makeup?” Eyes makeup seems to be the most challenging part of the makeup look, but it doesn’t have to be!

With the right products and colour selection, creating beautiful eye makeup for an everyday look is manageable.

The most critical things are product selection, blending, and how long the makeup will last throughout the day (or night!). If you are an eyeshadow lover, you probably have noticed that eyeshadow can sometimes be difficult to blend or migrate throughout the day.

To prevent this, the texture of the product and how you prep your eyelid is crucial.

Avoid applying foundation to the eyelid, which can be too hydrating for this small area and can cause eyeshadow to migrate. Prefer a dry concealer or an eye primer that you can apply directly on the skin.

I am personally a huge fan of cream stick eyeshadow as they set to air dry and allow an easy blending on the upper and lower eyelid. My go-to look for eyes is to blend a coral cream eyeshadow applied in the inner corner with a soft brown on the outer corner. I apply the brown shade under the eyes as well, a beige pencil on the waterline to open the eyes and generously coat the lashes with mascara.

This look is gorgeous and always brightens the eyes! But for more tips and an understanding of eyes makeup products, I have created this little guide for you!

EYESHADOW BASE AND EYE PRIMER

Eyeshadow base and eye primer help the longevity of the products and intensify the colours of your eyeshadows. Often believed to be the same product, a base and a primer will have slightly different uses and results.

Eye primer: A primer is applied before applying eyeshadow to keep the pigments in place and prevent the product from migrating and creasing. Primers are great, especially for oily eyelids, and to give long-lasting results for the eyeshadows, they usually come in skin tones shades or translucent.

Primers are often made of silicon or polymer and should be applied directly on the skin without any makeup underneath. You do not need to apply a primer if you use cream eyeshadows. Primers should only be used for dry products. If you do not have an eyeshadow primer, you can also use a dry concealer in small quantities before applying the eyeshadow.

Application: Apply a small amount of product evenly on the eyelid. Some primers can dry after application. If it’s the case with the product you are using, we recommend working quickly.

Eyeshadow base:

An eyeshadow base can be used to intensify the colour of the pigments present in eyeshadows. An eyeshadow base does not necessarily prevent the eyeshadows from migrating and creasing. An eyeshadow base usually comes in a cream texture and can be tinted or neutral.

Application: You can apply the eyeshadows base directly on the skin, or some formulas can be paired with an eye primer for long-lasting results.

Eyeshadows: Eyeshadows come in a range of colours and textures. Eyeshadow was first used in ancient Egypt for religious ceremonies and daily life. During the time of the ancient Egyptians, they used a substance called kohl to reduce infection and glare from the sun.

When eyeshadows were brought into Greece and Rome, they were used to enhance looks and even to identify the class of society you belonged to. Modern-day eyeshadow comes from the fashion revolution in the 1920s when chemists found a way to get rid of ingredients that gave unwanted effects such as irritation and difficult removal. Some powder eyeshadows are designed to be used wet or dry. This can be very handy when you want to achieve smokey eyes or a colour-block look.

Powder eyeshadows: Matte eyeshadows can be used for any area of the look. Metallic and shimmer can be used to highlight some parts of the makeup or as an all-over for an intense look. I recommend placing your metallic eyeshadows apart to avoid getting shimmers in your matte colours. Talc, Kaolin clay, and mica are the three main base fillers used for eyeshadows. Binding agents are used to holding the pigments together to create pressed eyeshadows.

Application: Eyeshadows can be applied over a pencil, primer, or concealer to facilitate the blending and ensure a long-lasting effect. It is important to choose formulas that are wellpigmented. You might also notice that matte eyeshadows can be harder to blend than metallic ones that have a smoother formula.

Cream eyeshadow: Cream eyeshadows can come as sticks or in a jar. Cream eyeshadows have become popular over the past few years as they are easy to apply and mix together. Most formulas will set, allowing a long-lasting result. To prevent the product from creasing, you can also apply a little bit of loose powder with a small brush. You can also apply a powder eyeshadow over or use pigment to create different looks.

Application: Cream eyeshadows do not need to be applied over a primer. Most formulas contain polymers that are going to adhere directly to the skin. If the product does not set, you can use translucent powder to prevent the product from migrating.

Liquid eyeshadows: Liquid eyeshadows come in a range of colours and finish. Ideal for creating a shimmery effect, the application can be challenging if you are not using the right tool.

Application: I recommend using a doe-foot disposable applicator that is similar to the one provided with the product. A doe-foot applicator is similar to a gloss applicator. When applying, try to paint the product on the eyelid and blend only the edges.

My favourite products for cream eyeshadows are the Ombre Blackstar from By Terry, the Zoom cream eyeshadows from Mecca Max and for eyeshadows powder I particularly love Viseart.

Always keep in mind to focus on creating a flawless base before using bright colours and if you are afraid of fall-outs, you can also create your eyes makeup first.