AN EXCLUSIVE GLOBAL COMMENTARY

with Vivienne Mackinder

By Louise May

Over the remaining issues of Hair Biz for 2024 we are going to be bringing our readers a unique and comprehensive understanding of the global landscape.

We aim to delve into various aspects that shape and define the industry, offering a platform for thoughts on trends, challenges, and changes within the realm of hairdressing.

We will be featuring a Q&A session with global industry experts, who will share their thoughts on critical industry topics. We are particularly interested in exploring trends that highlight the creative side of hairstyling, insights on products making waves in the market, the ongoing challenge of skill shortages, and the evolving nature of the industry such as the rise of self-employed professionals, salon changes, and innovative business models.

Our first feature is the amazingly talented Vivienne Mackinder

Vivienne Mackinder is one of the most highly respected international leaders and innovators in the hairdressing profession today. In her work as Artistic Director for industry ‘Grand Masters’ Vidal Sassoon and Trevor Sorbie, Vivienne developed an expertise for precision cutting and an eye for original hair design, from classic, commercial, to avant-garde.

Based in New York, she grew up in London and subsequently opted to ‘spread her wings’ to the United States. She has been honoured with numerous awards, including the prestigious IBS ‘Editors’ Choice Awards (three times). As well as the much-coveted North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA). Plus, the NAHA “Lifetime Achievement”.

Vivienne is an ‘in-demand’ featured guest artist-educator for premier international events worldwide and her work is consistently published in the international press.

Vivienne’s career, as a master stylist, is divided between online education, editorial and advertorial shoots, advertising campaigns and countless special events as a featured artist, not to mention her work for entertainment entities, MTV, and the VH-1 Fashion Awards.

As a session stylist, she has collaborated and designed hair collections for runway fashion collections in New York, Paris, and London.

Vivienne is also one of our esteemed AHIA Creative - International Judges.

Hair Biz Editor Louise May chats with Vivienne to get her perspective on the state of the industry.

From your unique vantage point, what creative trends are currently shaping the world of hairstyling, and how do these trends influence the industry’s direction?

The negative; - A trend that’s getting very old is unkept long hair, while I love long hair on the right person it is not for everybody. There seems to be no discernment as to whether it is: age-appropriate, suits the face shape and body type, or that the hair is quality enough to hang long.

I find this global trend boring and so many women are walking around looking unkept. It’s tough to wear your hair to your waist when you’re 60 years old and its grey brittle and wiry! I’m sorry to say, it looks like a witch that ready to step into a Harry Potter movie.

I’m also seeing another negative trend, which is over-processed hair. Possibly the only time this hair looks amazing is when styled by a skilful stylist and photographed with filters. The reality of how the style looks in real life is very different! Just hang out in an international airport, good luck in finding stunning hair.

Our mantra is - bring back beautiful hair.
A dream trend I would love to see, is a Hair Cut revolution to make haircuts look fresh and modern regardless of age.

Could you share your insights on standout haircare and styling products that have gained popularity globally?

There is new technology available - Curl Cult; in the perming world that allows us to pin curl and create waves using metal clips. To use rollers or bendies, this opens the door to fun haircuts and curls. 
A new styling product. Fun to play with, and a wonderful fragrance, highly concentrated with strong performance, a very sophisticated line.

Skill shortages persist as a challenge in the industry. What strategies or initiatives have you observed or implemented to address this issue, and what recommendations do you have for the industry at large?

Well, there is a shortage of hairdressers. But there’s an even greater shortage of skilled hairdressers. So many graduates from cosmetology schools are ill-prepared for the reality of what it takes to build a business.

Sadly, many coming out of school think they know it all, they think they can become an independent stylist not realising how important it is to be mentored and to continually train.

The dilemma here in the United States; two years in salon reality, 85% of new stylists have already left the business.

There is a huge burden on salon owners as they now have to have to offer advanced in-salon training which is a skill unto itself. Is interesting how hairdressers want to make more money and grow their business but when I ask them, what is your strategy to do so, they look at me blankly.

You can’t grow anything in your business unless you have a personal professional growth plan. Sadly, from TikTok and Instagram, hairdressers TODAY - social is the platform for learning. While great for ideas, not a path to mastery. I have completely changed my training methods; I have a blend of online videos with weekly live virtual workshops.

It’s been fascinating to watch weekly progress, and ironically, those who really want to be good, are transformed. Increasing their business from anything from 20 to 50% within 10 months.

Our profession has always struggled with the mindset and the willingness to stay open to continually learn. I’ve always surrounded myself with hairdressers who are lifelong learners, but sadly, the mass are not like that, which is why many stylists are struggling to make a good income, many lack the confidence and skills required, 95% don’t know how to do a consultation and that’s the gatekeeper to building your brand.

Hair is a lifelong study; loving who you become on the journey. Always seeing progress in your business. If you can’t measure your progress, then how do you know if you’re succeeding?

There is too much focus on social media, and peer pressure. What is important is who you compare yourself to? At the end of the day, it’s about being the very best version of yourself.

Understanding how to leverage social media to fit your own brand and stop comparing to others or using vanity matrix to evaluate your worth in the marketplace.

With the emergence of self-employed professionals, suites, and rental booths, how do you see the traditional salon model evolving?

The industry has certainly been disrupted in booth rental. In many cases it has been a reaction against commission salons, who have not had great leadership. A lack of incentives and in-house training to keep their staff growing and motivated.

Very difficult to be an independent operator, the whole weight of running your business sits on your shoulders; from folding towels, making appointments, social media marketing etc. When you are a solo operator trading time for money, you hit the ceiling of earnings very quickly. So, there is a price to pay for freedom and flexible hours.

Most are working harder than when they were in a commission salon, they’re not counting the hours that they’re putting into cleaning folding towels inventory, all those tasks that would’ve been done for them and in a full commission Salon.

They forget that time has value. Many fail in the independent world because they do not have the entrepreneurial skills and determination and grit. But for those who have the right skills; it can be a very good formula, but there is no exit strategy. I think there’s a place for the return of independent salons with incredible leadership, with strong growth.

In salon training and teambuilding, it’s a tremendous amount of work, but with proper systems, and offering people some flexibility with their hours I think there is more potential to really grow and thrive within that world. Everything rises and falls on leadership.

The discussion around fair and equitable employment practices is gaining momentum. In your experience, what measures or policies have proven effective in promoting employee well-being and satisfaction within the hairdressing sector?

Entitlement for me is one of the most unattractive features a person can wear. I am drawn to people who are hungry to learn, who are humble, and who have remembered that we are in the service industry and whether we’re serving a client on a photo shoot, fashion show, or within the salon, the client comes first.

It’s a mindset that permeates across all sectors of our industries around the world, and its certain countries is much more prevalent because of social media. The smart leader is going to challenge, inspire and set goals so that the team are always striving to be better.

For example, in my training, we do live events every week at the end of the class. Everyone photographs their work, and they post their work and a photographic forum here I can review their work, and I give video coaching feedback. There is no room for entitlement here.

Often when someone’s entitled, they believe that someone owes them something. Underneath the entitled behaviour is the ego, fear, and insecurity.
When you’re open to learn, and want to be the best version of yourself there is no place for entitlement. I will not hire anybody who is entitled, I have zero tolerance for It.

How have the characteristics and preferences of Gen Y and Gen Z professionals and clients influenced the industry?

Every generation brings magical gifts. There is so much to learn from each other’s perspectives. It’s so easy though to judge and be critical. I love to keep an open mind to how each generation views the world, how they use technology and different learning styles.

At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter in which generation you’re born, we live in an industry where the human touch still has importance. There is nothing more magical than having a client sitting in your chair where she feels; seen, understood and safe.

Ai cannot compete with the human touch, compassion transcends all generations, and the school of hard knocks hits hard on the ego. The highly successful people learn from mistakes and turn a challenge into a stepping stone for growth.

In what ways has technology impacted the hairdressing industry? Are there specific tools or platforms that you believe are pivotal in shaping the future of the profession?

Technology - I am developing an app currently that has the potential to change the way we engage with our clients. I am pouring my 40-plus years of knowledge into “Beauty by Design”. More to follow soon.

This is where we see a generational and mindset divide. When used wisely, technology adds value to our daily lives, but we have to find balance.

Collaboration across borders can foster innovation. Have you observed successful instances of international collaboration within the hairdressing industry, and how can professionals benefit from a more interconnected global community?

I would personally love to collaborate more with like-minded artists, hairdressers, and companies. But I have found our industry to be very tribal.

Trying to collaborate and cross-market has been a challenge; the business model in the digital world is so different to bricks and mortar. My door is always open to listen and learn.

@viviennemackinder