WONDERING IF CHANGING YOUR LOWLIGHT FORMULAS CAN HELP TO CUSTOMISE YOUR CLIENT’S HAIRCOLOUR?

By Kristina Russell

Lowlighting has been around for as long as Foil Highlighting. There are structured foil techniques suitable for colour corrections and reintroducing tone or dimension.

There are also several Freehand techniques for adding dimension or depth back into the hair which works well, such as Zone Toners or painting a semi-permanent colour between foils. However, you’ve probably noticed those options can tend to wash out over time without any visible texture left behind.

I’ve found that there are only three lowlight formulas you’ll ever need to know. These formulas are designed to deposit darker colour into the hair and fill it in one process when low lighting. Having worked on clients for nearly 25 years, I’ve relied on just these four formulas for successful colour corrections.

The Classic Lowlight: Reintroducing Depth and Dimension

The Classic Lowlight formula is perfect for adding depth and dimension back into the hair. This formula combines natural tones at the target level with a gold tint, mixed with 3% developer. It’s ideal for clients who want a subtle, natural look.

Example:

- Target Level: 6

- Formula: 6N (natural) + 6G (gold) with 3% developer

When to use:

- On clients with faded highlights looking to add natural depth

- To reintroduce dimension in overprocessed blonde hair

When not to use:

- On hair that’s overly porous or damaged, as the colour might not hold well

Type of colour:

- Demi-permanent for minimal damage and natural-looking results or permanent tint with 3% to deposit only.

Pro Tip: Perform a test strand to ensure the colour outcome is as desired. If your test strand lowlights turn hair green, add warmth to the formula. If you notice it is green after you wash it off, you will need to tone or glaze with a pastel pink to counteract the green.

The Cool Down Lowlight: Tackling Brassy Orange Tones

The Cool Down Lowlight is designed to combat orange or brassy tones. This formula includes natural tones and blue to neutralise orange or green to combat red at the target level, mixed with 3% developer.

Example:

- Target Level: 7

- Formula: 7N (natural) + 7B (blue or ashblue) with 3% developer

When to use:

- On clients with brassy highlights or orange undertones

- To cool down overly warm hair colours

When not to use:

- On hair that’s too dark, as it might not lift enough to see the cooling effect

Type of colour:

- Demi-permanent for gentle toning without over-processing

Pro Tip: Perform a test strand to check the cooling effect. If hair turns yellow, use a stronger blue or violet tone.

The Grey Coverage Lowlight: Contemporary Coverage

The Grey Coverage Lowlight is a personal favourite for clients seeking contemporary grey coverage with low commitment. This formula uses advanced grey coverage double naturals mixed with 6% developer, tailored to the client’s needs.

Example:

- Target Level: 8

- Formula: 8NN with 6% developer

When to use:

- On clients with a mix of grey and natural hair wanting subtle coverage

- For clients looking for low-maintenance colour

When not to use:

- On clients who desire full grey coverage with no natural tones showing

Type of colour:

- Permanent for lasting coverage

Pro Tip: Perform a test strand to ensure grey coverage is adequate. If hair turns black, dilute the formula with a lighter shade.

The Dimensional Redhead Lowlight

Wondering how to prevent the common issue of “browning out” in coppers and redheads? The secret is knowing when to colour balance versus lowlight, or as I like to call it “glowlighting”. Lowlighting Redheads enhances depth and dimension without sacrificing vibrancy. Whether you’re working with a strawberry blonde, a rich copper, or a fiery redhead, this lowlight can be applied using either freehand techniques or traditional foiling, depending on the desired result.

The Dimensional Redhead Lowlight is ideal for redheads, coppers, and strawberry blondes who seek a natural and vibrant look. Natural redheads usually have a variety of tones—about five different colours in their hair—compared to brunettes who typically have up to three. This lowlight technique adds dimension and depth, preventing the “browning out” effect that can dull vibrant reds and coppers.

Example:

- Target Level: 7

- Formula: 7RG (RedGold) with 3% developer

When to use:

- On clients looking to enhance the natural depth and dimension of their red or copper hair.

- For refreshing and maintaining vibrant red tones without darkening the overall colour.

When not to use:

- On clients seeking a uniform or flat red shade without variation.

- When the goal is to achieve an all-over bright, bold red rather than a dimensional look.

Type of colour:

- Demi-permanent or permanent, depending on the desired longevity and depth.

Pro Tip: To achieve a multi-tonal redhead that mimics natural red hair, consider using a mix of warm coppers and reds alongside a natural base tone. Freehand application or foiling techniques can be used to create seamless blends. This approach is especially effective in preventing the dulling or browning out of copper shades, ensuring a rich, lively finish that maintains its vibrancy between salon visits.

Best Practices for Lowlighting

1. Always test the colour on a small section of hair to check the result. This helps prevent unwanted outcomes and allows adjustments before applying to the entire head.

2. Use demi-permanent colour for a natural look with minimal damage, semipermanent for temporary changes, and permanent colour for long-lasting results.

3. Be careful not to overlap lowlights on previously coloured hair that is damaged to prevent uneven tones. Additionally, avoid overlapping natural hair with any formula that includes peroxide to prevent lifting the hair and creating another problem zone. Overlapping peroxide on natural hair can result in unintended lightening, leading to uneven colour and potential damage. Always apply lowlights carefully and ensure precise placement to maintain the integrity of both natural and coloured hair.

4. Hair porosity affects colour absorption. Highly porous hair may require a filler or pre-treatment to ensure even colour distribution.

5. If lowlights turn hair green, add warmth to the formula. If hair turns yellow, use a stronger blue or violet tone. If hair turns black, dilute the formula with a lighter shade. If your test strand lowlights turn hair green, you will need to tone or glaze with a pastel pink to counteract the green. If it’s too orange, you’ll need a blue-based natural toner. If it’s flat, you might need to apply a copper or golden toner.

By mastering these three lowlight formulas and following best practices, you can achieve stunning, customised results for your clients every time.

@colourkristina