L’enfant Terrible

HOW FRENCH DESIGNER JEAN PAUL GAULTIER MADE A NAME FOR HIMSELF BY DEFYING GENDER NORMS By Manon Bushong, Fashion Editorial Assistant Graphic by Ella Cunz

L’enfant Terrible is a French expression, translating to “the terrible child.” Originally used to characterize pesky and boisterous children who frequently humiliated their parents, the expression has ultimately morphed into a means of describing young artists who are heavily avante-garde and unorthodox. One leading designer in the fashion industry who held this nickname was Jean Paul

Gautier, primarily due to pushing gender based norms in fresh and provocative ways.1

Androgyny has been an increasingly relevant theme of 21st century fashion, as many designers make efforts to rewrite gender-based fashion concepts.

However, androgynous fashion was less prevalent during the peak of Jean Paul Gaultier’s career, hence why his designs consisting of men in skirts and women in cone-bra corset dresses was so ill-received by the public. Despite the backlash, Gaultier was able to pave an influential path that was endorsed by many celebrities, including David Beckham, who was seen and photographed in one of Gaultier’s skirts in the mid 90s.2

One of Gaultier’s most influential contributions to the fashion industry was the cone bra, a concept he originally designed as a child on a teddy bear. This iconic design was ultimately popularized by Madonna on her 1990 “Blonde Ambition” tour.3 The cone bra was a fresh spin on the traditional concept of a corset.

With its eye catching triangular shaped bust, the cone bra aimed to defy traditional female body standards instead of highlighting feminine features. Madonna’s use of this design in her iconic tour was a catalyst towards the cone bra becoming a household name in avant garde fashion.

Gaultier’s noncompliance with the constructs of his generation extended far beyond his design concepts. For his runway shows,

Gaultier had a tendency to cast models who did not shape to the typical slender build and were

1 Govan, C., “50 years In Fashion: An interview with Jean Paul Gaultier,” France Today, 2021. 2 Victoria and Albert, Museum, O,Men in skirts, February 2013. 3 Silver, J., Jean Paul Gaultier Originally Designed Madonna’s Cone Bra For His Teddy Bear” W Magazine, 2019. not “conventionally” attractive, traits that were highly sought after by the majority of designers during this time. Gaultier shocked many when he debuted his designs on plus size runway models, older men and edgy models with a striking amount of tattoos and piercings.4 Gaultier’s fearlessness primed him for many opportunities, from designing for cinema to becoming the creative director at Hermes, a position he held from 2003 to 2010.5 Vintage Jean Paul Gaultier pieces will forever be a unique wardrobe staple. Currently, his patterned mesh tops are having a serious moment. In 2018, both Kendall Jenner and Kourtney Kardashian were photographed flaunting the exact same vintage Gaultier top, a sheer short sleeve green shirt with the Venus de Milo printed on the front.6 Both Keeping Up with the Kardashians stars paired the shirt with black pants. These printed mesh tops inspired by vintage Gaultier pieces have been a major trend recently, and have trickled down into the collections of many designers. Vetements, Inamorata, Cinq A Sept, and Ganni are just a few examples of modern labels that are taking inspiration from Gaultier’s iconic designs, and releasing their own versions of these vibrant print mesh tops.7 Jean Paul Gaultier’s unapologetic, fanatical designs completely altered the fashion industry. Even after he announced his retirement via Twitter in January of 2020, Gaultier still has an immense influence within the fashion world.8 In the final years of his career, Gaultier solely designed haute couture, as he found himself frustrated by the way the ready-to-wear industry had become increasingly profitoriented. Holding these values lead Gaultier to become someone who will always remain relevant in the industry. ■

4 Orlean, S., “Jean Paul Gaultier’s Inspirations,” The New Yorker, 2011. 5 Alexander, E., “Gaultier exits HERMES,” Vogue UK, 2019. 6 Satenstein, “L, Can you keep up with the Kardashians’ New Vintage Collection?,” Vogue, 2019. 7 Lansom, A., “Get ready for the second-skin top takeover,” Refinery 21, 2021. 8 Betancourt, B., “Jean Paul Gaultier’s Upcoming Show Will Be His Last,” Bazaar, 2021.