The Art of Juxtaposition

Mixing unexpected elements together can cause an interesting contrast, but also artful cohesion. Oftentimes, two clashing ideas are more profound together than they are on their own.

Artists of all mediums apply the skill of juxtaposition to make a statement through their creations. A musician may write a melancholy song in a major key or a designer will mix tough leather with intricate lace to create looks with intriguing depth.

Juxtaposition in clothing most often refers to combining elements that are not typically expected to go together.

Sometimes the resulting look is striking and unique, and sometimes it can be hard to comprehend. At its core, fashion has no rules, and that should be celebrated and explored more often—juxtaposition is one technique creatives can use to push boundaries.

One particularly striking combination is using contrasting “masculine” and

“feminine” elements. Fashion that successfully does this challenges traditional gender expectations for dress and allows people to express themselves freely without social construction. In fact, it helps challenge the very gendered definitions put on clothing in the first place.

One designer that has consistently incorporated juxtaposition into her collections is Simone Rocha. The Irish fashion icon made her debut at London Fashion Week in 2010 and has been creating eye-catching collections ever since.1 Rocha’s designs are often inspired by her experience with femininity. She includes traditional ideas of femininity in her pieces, but with a distinctive edge. In the past, she has expressed that she wants her collections to depict how ideas of femininity impact women’s lives and how it makes them feel.2

Rocha’s most recent Spring 2022 Ready to Wear collection was inspired by her experience with pregnancy and motherhood, which is often considered a pivotal moment in an individual’s understanding of themself. The collection

¹ “Simone Rocha Is Part of the BOF 500,” The Business of Fashion, August 28, 2019. ² “Simone Rocha: ‘with Every Show I’m Telling a Story’,” The Guardian (Guardian News and Media, September 23, 2017). was done in a lush color palette ranging from pastel pink, ivory and lavender to blood-red and black. It was clear that every detail, from the clothing to the physical runway, was reflective of Rocha’s experience. The show occurred in a medieval, gothic-looking church which clashed against but also complimented the first few looks that walked down the aisle.

The very first look was a whimsical white gown paired with monochromatic accessories—including opera gloves and a tiara. The dress was composed of a full, sheer skirt and négligée looking bodice. The entire piece was embellished with beaded embroidery, ribbon and a variety of lace. Every aspect of the look was intricate and ultra-feminine, but not necessarily in a polite way. Several dresses, including the first, had a delicate fabric cut-out around the breast, perhaps to point out the role breastfeeding often has in motherhood.3 Other looks from the collection were nearly opposite the first: also sheer and embellished, but done completely in black. These contrary looks brought the concepts of juxtaposition beyond one outfit and into the show as a whole.

There were also many outfits that combined contrasting concepts on their own. One model wore a particularly attention-grabbing ensemble. The base of the look was an oversized, taupe suit. Extending off the sides of the jacket were layers of black embroidered lace, and layered on top is a beaded black crop top. Both aspects of the garment served to draw attention to the feminine parts of the body, even though the suit is typically associated with masculinity. Rocha’s most recent collection isn’t the only instance in which she artfully depicts juxtaposition. In her Fall 2021 Ready to Wear Collection, she included florals, tulle and leather. She created tough leather jackets with puff sleeves that would, if not constructed of leather, otherwise look dainty. Moreover, the ideas Rocha presents in her collections are adaptable into the av-

³ Sarah Mower, “Simone Rocha Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection,” Vogue (Vogue, September 20, 2021). HOW DESIGNER SIMONE ROCHA CHALLENGES FEMININITY THROUGH FASHION Written and modeled by Jane Houseal, Photographed by Hunter Kiehl,

HOW DESIGNER SIMONE ROCHA CHALLENGES FEMININITY THROUGH FASHION Written and modeled by Jane Houseal, Fashion Editorial Assistant Photographed by Hunter Kiehl, Staff Photographer, and Anna Janke, Contributing Photographer

erage person’s wardrobe. If you want to take inspiration from her Fall 2021 collection, try layering a leather crop top over a lacy floral dress. In her Fall 2018 Ready to Wear, Rocha paired delicate outfits with unexpected all-black accessories. Despite the differences in styles between the accessories and apparel, the fabric choices made each look cohesive and luxurious. This is one of the simplest styles to incorporate into your own wardrobe. Pair your favorite flirty outfit with dark accessories; you can try gloves, headbands, bags, shoes and hats. Get creative with what you already own, or take it as an opportunity to style a new and exciting accessory. Another way Rocha conveys her inspiration on the runway is by pairing masculine blazers and suits with ethereal, sheer slip-dresses layered over and under them. She did this in her Fall 2016 Ready to Wear, which is aesthetically different from many of her other collections.

If you want to recreate the look, you can experiment with layering different textured pieces. For something more casual, layer lingerie or a slip dress over a boxy graphic tees or button-up. If you want to take it up a notch, you can more closely replicate Rocha’s look with a sheer, sparkly slip on top of an extremely masculine, structured piece. Rocha uses juxtaposition to intimately describe various stages of her life. Her designs can be used as inspiration for individual expression as well. There are so many ways to combine styles to more accurately cultivate one that’s entirely your own. If you prefer not to stick strictly to masculine or feminine silhouettes, then mix them. Try a boxy jacket over a clingy slip dress or a fitted bustier top with loose-fitting carpenter pants. Another component of your wardrobe you can juxtapose is texture. Similar to Rocha, try mixing lace and satin with leather or other tougher fabrics. Styling outfits with inspiration from designers like Rocha creates a sense of fashion freedom. Without the pressure to stick to one fashion narrative, it becomes easier to use clothes to convey diverse identities and experiences. ■