NEW YORK
FASHION WEEK Spring 2015 Trend Report
September 4th-11th, 2014
Written by Alexa Carlson Fashion Writers: Victoria Fok Emma Leuman Marissa Monett Phebe Myers Edtited by: Paige Schultz, Fashion Editor Marissa Monett, Fashion Editorial Assistant
a letter from the editor It has been said that life starts all over when it gets crisp in the fall. The same can be said for fashion, as each September we usher in a fresh season of trends through the collections of New York Fashion Week. As the most prominent week in all of fashion month, New York plays a crucial role in setting the standard for spring style, distinguishing the moment at which inspiration permeates and influence begins for the upcoming season. To capture this, the Moda Fashion Team has assembled the following trend report. This report is not to say what is right or wrong, as the process of style dictation is far from objective and unique preferences shape the way we perceive our personal style. Instead, this report aims to inspire a cultivated view of relevant trend perspectives. Because, like the current season, it does not necessarily matter where your annual journey with fashion begins. Like the autumn leaves that grow, fall and replenish, trend and style dictation are processes that have a habit of coming full circle – always beginning and ending with you. Here’s to starting over and gaining a fresh perspective on style. Paige, Fashion Editor
September 4th DAY ONE
By Emma Leuman On Day One of NYFW, feminine yet utilitarian silhouettes covered the runways, exuding an air of futuristic utopianism. At BCBG Max Azria, quilted jackets provided structure for flowing fabrics and loosely-fitting, light-colored separates complemented one another to create an effortless minimalist aesthetic. At Tome, hues shifted over to the dark side as the designer featured an array of all-black ensembles juxtaposed intermittently with shades of white, cream, metallic, and pink. Boxier shapes with perforated accents added to the theme of utilitarianism, but pretty pleats and hints of lace gave the collection a much-needed dose of femininity. Laser cutouts were a major trend as well, contributing to the futuristically functional vibe of the day. Perhaps owing to the newly popular 3D printing technology, shapes were meticulously cut out of otherwise monotonous textiles to create an interesting play of pattern and skin. This was executed at Kaelen with intricately stenciled designs adding a feminine air to a practical look. BCBG Max Azria (photo from Style.com)
Top: Tome; Bottom: Kaelen, BCBG Maz Azria, Kaelen (photo from Style.com)
September 5th DAY TWO By Phebe Myers The runway shows on September 5th strove to answer the questions of the young professional woman. Business casual no longer comes with a set of rules. As such, the stylish lady of today is left to wonder whether or not there is a cool way to wear a suit or if she can still look feminine with an edgy, modern twist. Channeling the contemporary woman, Jason Wu and Peter Som responded to these fashion queries with their prim and polished collections of floral suits and jackets. With a focus on reinventing classic wardrobe staples, these designers revamped the timeless white button-up with variations that featured cut out backs and fresh styling techniques. Peter Som’s unique white button-up pairings were especially notable as he balanced the simplicity of the everyday shirt with more exotic items. Certain designers also featured collections ripe with invigorating texture, continuing the trend of integrating myriad textiles as seen in seasons past. Zimmermann, in particular, played with color and texture to create an array of stand-out looks. Additionally, the designer used lace in innovative ways, most apparent in his gorgeous, metallic orange suit with a peekaboo lace detail. Epitomizing the style of a fashionable, modern woman, this look seamlessly tied the trend elements of the day together, wrapping up the second day of NYFW. Peter Som (photo from Style.com)
Top: Peter Som, Jason Wu; Bottom: Zimmermann (photos from Style.com)
September 6th DAY THREE By Emma Leuman There is no question that the fashion industry thrives on innovation, yet ironically certain trends persist year after year. In the past, many collections remained in the neutral spectrum of color, perhaps adding a tinge of navy blue into the mix from time to time. Concerning structure, silhouettes are either dubbed as feminine or masculine, with soft edges or hard lines and rarely anything in between. For Spring 2015, however, designers decided to put a twist on these old standbys. Kimono-esque sleeves popped up on runways everywhere, from Tibi to HervĂŠ Leger by Max Azria. These traditionally boxy sleeves are notorious for their unflattering look, but this season they were much more complementary as they revealed slender forearms from elbow down. Paired with a flowing skirt or a body-conscious mini, these tops produced a dainty and delicate feel. Designers also played with the level of shine in their fabrics. Many collections featured pieces with sheen that added interest to an otherwise boring, neutral palette. When executed on white ensembles, this choice was especially luminous, with its pearlescent tones giving the looks a faintly whimsical air. Christian Siriano (photo from Style.com)
Top: Herve Leger, Tibi, Herve Leger; Bottom: Christian Siriano, Tibi, Christian Siriano (photos from Style.com)
September 7th DAY FOUR By Phebe Myers The runways on September 7th were all about innovation. Two of the biggest up-and-coming New York-based designers, Public School and Hood By Air, followed this theme. Anticipation was high for Public School, a design house launched four years ago. The rising brand just recently began designing for women and expectations were surpassed. Their utterly cool collection featured understated black and white looks for both men and women. Although cohesive through minimalistic designs, Public House rotated the idea of femininity. Designs for females were less fitting than male designs, offering a unique view on sexuality and fashion.
Public School (photo from Style.com)
In contrast, Hood By Air was arguably one of the most unique shows to date. Models walked the runway dressed androgynously in denim, cutout pieces and extra large sneakers. However, the actual apparel was hardly the highlight of the show. Unconventional accessories acted as a focal point for this runway collection, with one model strutting next to a Great Dane and another limping down with crutches. Additionally, several models sported large plastic cones around their necks that boasted the brand “Hood By Air.� Yet oddities aside, these two lines clearly ushered in a progressive and androgynous era of fashion that takes edginess to an entirely new level.
Top: Public School; Bottom: Hood By Air (photos from Style.com)
September 8th DAY FIVE
By Victoria Fok The fifth day of NYFW was filled with a mixture of fashion week veterans and newcomers with an array of opinions on spring looks. In the midst of variety, crop tops and loosefitting silhouettes were two trends that permeated collections. Phillip Lim’s collection featured architecturally cut crop tops while Donna Karan’s models strutted down the runway in high-waist midi skirts paired with crop tops that showed the tiniest sliver of midriff. On the opposite spectrum, billowy silhouettes dominated the runways of the Row, Theory, and Rag & Bone. At the Row, the Olsen twins showed a collection filled with loose, oversized pieces, including long and flowing maxi dresses. Continuing this theme of amorphous ensembles, Theory’s models wore loose-fitting pants with boxy menswear-inspired blazers and tops. Finally, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville of Rag & Bone made dresses out of long, boxy jackets, signaling the continuation of menswear for the upcoming spring season. Donna Karan (photo from Vogue.com)
Top: Donna Karan, Phillip Lim, Donna Karan; Bottom: Rag & Bone, Theory, The Row (photos from Vogue.com)
September 9th DAY SIX By Marissa Monett On Day Six designers stuck to what’s familiar. Femininity, a seasonal favorite, was directed by floral patterns and delicate textures while sheer, airy fabrics accounted for accents and extensions. Designers reinforced floral as a sign of femininity, accentuating their looks through patterns, appliques and embroidery. Jenny Packham sent a few pastel dresses with subtle floral beading down the runway while Oscar de la Renta sent most models walking with overt, floral patterns and embroidery. Overdone or timeless, ultra-feminine spring looks are definitely here for another season. Sheer fabrics were a designer favorite for Spring 2014, and with the textile’s subtle, light appearance suggestive of springtime, it made it back for another round. Transparent fabrics were added as accents to opaque separates and also as delicate layers to stronger pieces. ICB used sheer material for panels on their clothing, adding a cool factor to otherwise simplistic structures and monochromatic pairings. In other shows, Naeem Khan highlighted pieces with embroidered patterns over diaphanous fabrics while Sophie Theallet made patterns with contrasting sheer and solid textiles. Naeem Khan (photo from Style.com)
Top: Naeem Khan, Sophie Theallet, Naeem Khan; Bottom: Oscar de la Renta, Jenny Packham, Oscar de la Renta (photos from Style.com)
September 10th DAY SEVEN By Alexa Carlson On Day Seven of NYFW, strong, feminine ensembles dominated the runways with structured silhouettes that added edge to typically prim and proper looks. Jason Wu did not disappoint at Hugo Boss with his collection that stayed true to the label’s reputation for impeccable tailoring and masculine aesthetic. Featuring geometrically designed dresses paired with edgy gladiator sandals, Boss embodied the essence of a modern blue-collar look. In contrast, Erin Fetherston chose to create feminine looks that drew strength from structured, boxier silhouettes which were juxtaposed by floral designs. Culottes (pants that hang like a skirt) were another featured trend piece for Spring 2015. Delpozo offered a very structured, exaggerated version that addressed the continuing theme of powerful femininity. Meanwhile Rachel Zoe’s culottes were sophisticated and polished, setting the standard for a trendy new work look. Additionally, culottes were seen at Elizabeth + James in the form of a strapless romper with a chic wide-legged silhouette. All in all, spring looks are shaping to be just that – well-shaped. From distinct structure to relaxed silhouettes, the looks of September 10th were refreshing, strong and polished. Hugo Boss (photo from Style.com)
Top: Erin Fetherston, Hugo Boss, Erin Fetherston; Bottom: Rachel Zoe, Delpozo, Elizabeth and James (photos from Style.com)
September 11th DAY EIGHT By Emma Leuman The final day of NYFW was a day for surprises, not trends. Departing from the typical trends of sheer and floral, designers distinguished themselves with collections that followed their individual aesthetic. Powerhouse Marc Jacobs’ show is always one to watch. This season, Jacobs chose to take the perennial military trend and flip it on its head. Instead of keeping the pieces straight and structured, he chose to inject volume into both the sleeves and skirts of his ensembles. This play with volume continued with Steven Alan’s collection, where billowy oversize pants reigned. Paired with tight tank tops that left a bit of midriff exposed, these pants were reminiscent of the 70s, but possessed enough structure to have an air of sophistication. The stand-out show of the concluding day was undoubtedly that of Ralph Lauren. Paying no heed to any trends this season, the collection gave a sexy take on the concept of a world traveler. As one of the few designers to incorporate large splashes of color, his pieces were some of the most exciting on the runway with oranges, yellows and even purples all in evidence. Furthermore, multi-colored jewelencrusted collars and beautifully executed belts allowed this collection to represent the person we all strive to be: confident, striking, and chic. Ralph Lauren (photo from Style.com)
Top: Ralph Lauren; Bottom: Marc Jacobs, Steven Alan, Marc Jacobs (photos from Style.com)
MODA