Glamour: Fall 2023 Digital Issue

M O DA

FALL DIGITAL 2023

A TOUCH OF LUXURY H O W R I C H FA B R I C S A R E

FROM GRIT

TO GLAM

MAKING A COMEBACK

SNAPSHOTS F R O M T H E PA S T RESURGENCE OF FILM

THE

GLAMOUR ISSUE

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Noa Chamberlin CREATIVE DIRECTOR Elise Wilson

T E A M

OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Adina Kurzban INTERNAL RELATIONS DIRECTOR Alejandra Espino PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR Morgan Johnson CULTURE EDITOR Laine Bottemiller ARTS EDITOR Cate Tarr LIFESTYLE EDITOR Mi Chuinda Levy FASHION EDITOR Natasha Bernovich ONLINE EDITOR Reese Diethrich

HEAD OF DIVERSITY, EQUITY AND INCLUSION Preksha Satia

NEW MEMBERS MENTOR Rachel Van Hefty HEAD OF PHOTOGRAPHY Emma Spaciel HEAD OF VIDEOGRAPHY Molly Ford SHOOT PRODUCTION COORDINATORS Emily Han Rayyan Bhatti STYLING COORDINATOR Sara Dubuhr

WRITERS Audrey Weber • Cate Tarr • Chloe Kelm • Devin Reiman • Eliot Hughes • Francesca Smith • Kaitlyn Ard • Kate Dietz • Kate Reuscher • Kayla Hendrikse • Laine Bottemiller • Maddy Scharrer • Madison Luick • Mi Chuinda Levy • Morgan Johnson • Natasha Bernovich • Noa Chamberlin • Reese Diethrich • Sophie Corsaro • Sophie Hyman

ART Elise Wilson • Meghan Price • Bri Stevens • Ari Tweedy PHOTOGRAPHY Emma Spaciel • Leo Randle • Isabella Rotfeld • Lucie Freeman • Lily Munoz • Molly Ford • Nina Malhotra • Paige Valley • Elise Wilson MODELS Madelyn Barnhill • Allia Yasmine • Madison Luick • Kaitlyn Ard • Alayna Tucker • Cherry Qiu • Malia Ford • Isabella Rotfeld • Morgan Johnson • Ivette Pita-Ruiz • Nina Santiago • Emma Spaciel • Laine Bottemiller

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TABLE

OF

C U LT U R E

06 From Hollywood Glamour to College

Pressure: A Critical Look at Social Scenes A discussion on the pressure to conform to the “party lifestyle” as a crucial part of the college experience

11 Shattered Reflections: The Unattainable

Ideal in the Evolution of Beauty Standards How appearance culture dominates the pursuit of an ever changing ideal

15 Snapshots from the Past

The resurgence of film and early digital photography in our evolving digital world

21 The People's Princess - Audrey Hepburn

CONTENTS FA S H I O N

08 The Power of Pearls A gem that has stood the test of time 17 Donyale Luna:

Supermodel, Role Model The first Black supermodel and her lasting impact

22 A Touch of Luxury How rich fabrics are making a comeback 35 A Joyous Night Out Head-turning going-out tops to elevate your look

ARTS

05

The iconic moviestar's rise to fame and how the beautiful, talented woman we know today is not the same person the media saw during her lifetime

Old Hollywood in the New Era Influences of Old Hollywood in modern media are everywhere if you know where to look

28 Second of Many Hands

10 Timelessness

33 An Honest Coversation with my Mom

18 The Not-So-Glamorous Hollywood Gaze

Finding connections in second hand clothes

About Representation Before Social Media How body image and women's rights have evolved through time

LIFESTYLE

13 Glamorous Glasses

Why directors are still making black-and-white movies Hollywood's gatekeeping of femininity

27 The Brilliance of Sofia Coppola

Portraying authentic perspective in "Marie Antionette"

31 The Fall of Judy Garland:

30 Be a Human Disco Ball

How Dorothy Never Did Leave Oz Behind the shimmering screen, one of Hollywood's actors was doomed to substance abuse from the start

32 Like a Million Bucks

Damien Chanzelle's "Babylon" presents Hollywood in its classic, terrifying glory

Drinks from classic films for any occasion

What the gleaming orb can teach us about intrinsic optimism Your guide to smelling expensive on a budget

36 Glamorize your Sunday Routine!

How to spice up your to-dos to avoid that Sunday funk

38 From Grit to Glam F E AT U R E D

23 Stage

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Brilliance, Timelessness and Mystique Dear Readers, It feels absolutely right that our inaugural issue of the semester exudes nothing but glamour. Throughout the past year, Moda has taken the time to reflect on our publication and the power of our platform. We’ve taken a step back. We have refined our structure, our organization’s culture and publication process. Through this intricate and continuous process, we are delighted to be back, producing content that allows us to be creative in a more inclusive manner.

Stepping into the role of the Editorial Director was a daunting decision. Questions loomed – am I capable of handling this responsibility? Can I make an impact? While it has proven to be challenging, I’ve enjoyed every second. Moda, a place for creativity, freedom of expression, exploration and trial and error, has been pivotal in our collective journey of struggle and growth, evolving into something new, beautiful and undeniably glamorous.

Freshman year of college, like many of my peers, I felt lost, uncertain about where to find “my people.” It wasn’t until I discovered Moda that I finally found them – individuals who shared my passions, creativity and who aimed to create something unique, innovative and authentic. Moda became my outlet for personal and creative growth, fostering my voice and unveiling a strength within myself that I’d never encountered before. To me, Moda embodies absolute glamour.

This issue marks a deliberate shift in focus, steering away from traditional gendered notions and exploring the broader, more inclusive facets of fashion, arts, lifestyle and culture.

In this issue, we embark on a journey through time, redefining the essence of glamour in our complex world.

The term “glamour” traces its roots to 18th-century Scotland, initially referring to a magical spell or enchantment. As it evolved into common English, it came to mean “an elusive, mysteriously exciting attractiveness.”

In crafting this issue, the experience has been nothing short of magical. Glamour, for us, is not confined to outer beauty – it transcends aesthetics. The collaborative efforts of our dedicated team, pouring time, creativity and passion into this publication, create an enchanting glamour that extends beyond the surface.

For reference to this beyond-the-surface glamour, Francesca Smith challenges the simplistic definition of femininity perpetuated by Hollywood in her article “The not-so-glamorous Hollywood gaze.” Smith critiques the industry’s one-dimensional standards and advocates for a more nuanced understanding of femininity, pushing us towards a progressive world of gender equality and feminism.

While criticizing Old Hollywood is often warranted, Kayla Hendrikse’s article, “Timelessness,” gracefully transports us to the elegance of black-and-white film. Through her narrative, she urges readers to not only appreciate the simplicity of Old Hollywood but also celebrate the audacious stylistic choices directors make in their current films when opting for colorless cinematography. In our technologically advanced era, Hendrikse prompts us to rediscover the influence of simplicity and the timeless beauty black-and-white film brings to cinema culture.

For practical tips on infusing Old Hollywood glamour into modern fashion, we can turn to Audrey Weber’s article, “A Touch of Luxury.” Exploring fabrics like silk, satin, velvet and metallics, Weber provides insightful analyses on incorporating these elements into contemporary high-fashion trends.

In our issue, glamour signifies sophistication, confidence, strength and precision. It serves as a beacon illuminating hidden facets of history, either to be celebrated or reexamined with a new perspective.

As you read this issue, I hope you acknowledge the journey and consideration Moda has undertaken to reach this point. I extend my pride to every person involved in crafting this issue. Your dedication is evident, and I look forward to witnessing the continued growth and flourishing of this publication. I’m immensely grateful for each one of you, and as you know, this team is nothing short of exceptionally glamorous.

Warmly,

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NOA CHAMBERLIN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

ARTS

Old Hollywood in the New Era Influences of Old Hollywood in modern media are everywhere if you know where to look Written by Sophie Corsaro, Staff Writer Graphic by Bri Stevens, Creative Team

A

current look at movies, television and other forms of media reveals that Hollywood is consumed by an obsession with itself.

Media inspired by the glitz and glamour of Old Hollywood is booming, reflecting the general public’s interest in this time period. Not only do people want to uncover the secrets behind the fame, but they also long to experience an iconic era before their time.

Hollywood’s Golden Age, spanning from the 1930s to the 1960s, was a pivotal era in cinematic history. By introducing aspects like color and sounds into film, this time period produced many iconic films that forever changed the way individuals viewed the film industry.

The influence of the Golden Age continues to inspire movie-goers and filmmakers. By taking a deeper look into modern adaptations of Old Hollywood ideas in the entertainment industry, it becomes evident that the industry can’t get enough of its own legacy.

One can’t help but notice the sudden surge of biopics on famous stars, delving into the behind-the-scenes details and complexities of their lives. For example, “Judy,” a 2019 film about “Wizard of Oz” actress Judy Garland, focuses on her later years and features flashbacks that shed light on her poor treatment and simultaneous quick rise to fame.1 Similarly, there are numerous films about Marilyn Monroe including 2022 the film “Blonde,” which is predominantly a fictionalized narrative of her life, that delves into the intrigue of this starlet.2 Though these retellings differ in their accuracy of stars’ lives, they all unfold against the backdrop of Old Hollywood, exploring the ups and downs associated with it. These stories dive deeper into the immense pressures performers faced in the glamorous spotlight that most people saw but of1 Monica Castillo, “Judy movie review & film summary,” Roger Ebert, Sept. 26, 2019.

2 Manohla Dargis,“‘Blonde’ Review: Exploiting Marilyn Monroe for Old Times’ Sake,” The New York Times, Sept. 29, 2022.

ten failed to recognize.

In addition to biopics, other Old-Hollywood-inspired films have also received commercial success and critical acclaim. “Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood,” released in 2019, and “LaLa Land,” released in 2016, exemplify the different ways in which Old Hollywood influences and impacts modern media.

In "Once Upon a Time... in Hollywood," the spotlight dims on an actor grappling with his fading stardom, accompanied by his loyal stunt double, as they navigate the evolving landscape of the film industry and attempt to find their footing in the shifting dynamics that surround them. 3 The film also spotlights the Manson family and Sharon Tate. While this movie largely draws on real-life actors and the reality of Old Hollywood, its strength lies in its use of the Old Hollywood aesthetic to tell an updated story.

In contrast, “La La Land” differs in how it utilizes Old Hollywood influence. Its use of colors and musical elements pays homage to musicals in the 1950s and 1960s, as many scenes directly mirror countless classic musicals.4 While the plot is set in modern times, the film’s visual elements demonstrate the influence of Old Hollywood on current media.

1950s, illustrating what she gained and lost from her 30+ years spotlight.

Conveying the message that while the glamor of Hollywood was true, the books also illustrate that the lives of stars were not always as they seemed.5 The appearance of Old Hollywood stories in books also underscores that the obsession with Hollywood is not contained only to filmmaking, as every piece of media can thrive off of its influence.

Using Old Hollywood, an exclusive and seemingly glamorous place from the outside, to tell contemporary stories pulls viewers in and makes sense when considering how much Old Hollywood changed the film industry forever. Uncovering the modern obsession with Old Hollywood shows us the influence and lasting impact the era had on society. Diving deeper into this time period allows us to gain a richer understanding of what life was truly like during that time.

5 Taylor Jenkins Reid, “The Seven Husbands of Evelyn Hugo: A Novel,” Simon & Schuster, 2021.

In addition to film, books have also taken inspiration from the Old Hollywood setting. Taylor Jenkins Reid, author of several New York Times bestsellers, has found her niche in writing about fictional old stars. Her 2017 novel, “The Seven Husbands of Evelyn Hugo,” details a woman’s life as she breaks into Hollywood in the 3 Owen Williams, “Once Upon A Time In Hollywood Explained,” Empire, June 4, 2022.

4 Aisha Harris, “La La Land’s Many References to Classic Movies: A Guide,” Slate, Dec. 13, 2016.

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From Hollywood Glamour to College Pressure: A Critical Look at Social Scenes A discussion on the pressure to conform to the “party lifestyle” as a crucial part of the college experience Written by Chloe Kelm, Staff Writer Graphic by Ari Tweedy, Creative Team TW: Discussion of sexual assault, addiction and alcohol and drug use

“

If this is the college experience, I don’t want it.” I remember saying as I sobbed on the phone to my mom about how uneasy and out of place I felt at college, only three weeks in. I was sitting on the steps of Memorial Library after spending five hours contemplating if I could force myself to handle four years of coursework for a major I already hated, milking a headache from a night of pointless drinking and worthless conversations. Though college is full of worries over picking the right classes, getting along with roommates and figuring out a future career, students equally fret about their social lives and the encouraged social scene.

Websites such as Niche, intended to provide relevant information about the features and qualities of schools, advertise and compile lists of schools with the best party scene reputations.1 With UW-Madison ranking a modest eighth in the nation and receiving an A+ rating for the party scene, there’s no denying that immense amounts of pressure exist to participate in such an infamously party-heavy social environment.2 This scene is not meant for everyone, and many don’t desire it at all. The problem arises when young adults are pressured to take part in intense partying despite internal desires or morals to do otherwise.

The glamorization of such party scenes started with the lavish celebrations of Old Hollywood in the 1920s. In the early days of the film industry, movie producers, such as Jack Warner and Louis B. Mayer, hosted giant gatherings 1 “2024 Top Party Schools in America,” Niche, n.d.

2 Ibid.

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to network and establish their place as stars in the up-andcoming industry.3 These gatherings were often locations for sexual assault, overdoses and forced alcohol consumption, hidden under the guise of a way to socialize and enjoy life after a long day’s work.4 Actresses like Judy Garland were repeatedly approached for sexual favors. Garland recalled being approached by Mayer, who would compliment her voice and place his hand on her left breast, stating that she sang from the heart.5 Garland observed that “I often thought I was lucky that I didn’t sing with another part of my anatomy.”6 The “work hard, play hard” lifestyle led stars to turn to substance abuse to keep up with the cycle of work and partying.7 Grueling hours and expectations led to exhaustion and the use of depressants and stimulants like amphetamines and benzodiazepines. These drugs were often referred to as “vitamin shots” or “pep pills,” suggesting the drugs were safe and necessary.8 Hollywood stars like Marilyn Monroe, Judy Garland, Heath Ledger and Elvis Presley engaged in drug misuse that tragically led to their deaths.

3 Erin Blakemore, “How Classic Hollywood’s Party Culture Turned Women Into Prey,” History, last updated May 5, 2023.

4 Ibid.

5 Michael S. Rosenwald, “‘I’ll ruin you’: Judy Garland on being groped and harassed by powerful Hollywood men,” The Washington Post, Nov. 14, 2017.

6 Ibid.

7 Erin Blakemore, “Golden Age Hollywood Had a Dirty Little Secret: Drugs,” History, last updated Sept. 11, 2023.

8 Esma Erdem, “We can’t buy into Hollywood’s dangerous glamorization of drug abuse,” The Tufts Daily, Oct. 13, 2022.

CULTURE

For Marilyn Monroe, drug misuse was a response to her strenuous work environment and to broader mental health issues.9 Monroe struggled with physical challenges – struggling with a stutter, chronic colitis and severe menstrual pain – and mental illness – dealing with bipolar disorder causing dissociation from reality. On top of this complicated mental and physical health history, Monroe faced the immense pressure of being a reputable Hollywood star. Amy Greene, the wife of Monroe’s personal photographer, witnessed Monroe’s reliance on “the drugs she took to cope, once she entered Hollywood and had to endure its pressures: she especially took barbiturates to calm her down; amphetamines to give her energy.”10 While the normalization of drug and alcohol use has continued today, some popular media is combatting the dangerous, idealistic imagery of substance misuse. Though movies such as “The Wolf of Wall Street” have created an image of an amusing and exciting lifestyle filled with drugs, sex and alcohol, films such as “Beautiful Boy” have worked to dismantle the stigmas of addiction, following a boy’s journey through addiction, demonstrating how drug use can become an external escape from internal struggles.11 Popular media often fails to address the internal struggles that serve as a catalyst for substance abuse, and how addressing such mental struggles can prevent addiction.

ing night with friends, can bring contentment and create an existence outside of a student’s academic responsibilities. Finding enjoyment in these activities is critical to avoid burnout and live a gratifying life.

Media depictions of partying don’t often tell the entire story of alcohol and drug use. The reality is that everyone has one life to live, and basing personal choices on the expectations of others will lead to unhappiness. There is not only one way to experience college. There is not only one blueprint to have fun. And there is certainly not only one way to enjoy yourself and stay true to what makes you happy.

Knowledge of how outside factors often wish to negate this internal power is crucial to not being impacted by others telling you how to live. Whether you choose to engage in party culture or not, know that your decision should come from within, regardless of outside influences. ■

The history of drug and alcohol use in social scenes persists into college students’ lives. Today, instead of movies, social media feeds young adults with imagery of alluring party scenes and alcohol and drug consumption. The “fear of missing out” (FOMO) is a feeling when one compares their lives and social experiences to that of their peers.12 With social media, FOMO can create unrealistic images of partying in college and pressure other young adults into believing there is always someone that is having more fun, meeting more people and living their college experience to a fuller extent.

While college partying isn’t inherently negative, alcohol and drug use in these environments can be extremely harmful for students. The weekly routine of getting ready, pre-gaming and hopping around from party to party with a drink glued to your hand can be exhausting. The assumption that the only way to experience college is to take part in heavy drinking is flawed and sometimes even dangerous.

Socializing and partying can be an enjoyable way to spend time with friends, yet students aren’t limited to partying when it comes to enjoying college. Creative outlets and self expression are necessary to maintain a balance between personal life and academic and professional success. Alternative activities, like going on a hike or having a paint9 Ibid.

10 Edie Weinstein, “The Marilyn Monroe Effect: The Nonverbal Communication of Confidence,” PsychCentral, Sept. 2, 2019.

11 Ibid.

12 Emma Robertson, “Commentary: Avoiding college ‘party culture’ makes me feel safe and grounded,” EdSource, Mar. 27, 2023.

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FASHION

The Power of Pearls A gem that has stood the test of time Written by Kaitlyn Ard, Staff Writer Photography by Lilianna Munoz, Creative Team Modeled by Madelyn Barnhill, Creative Team orn and styled by numerous women throughout the decades, from royalty and celebrities to the modern everyday woman, pearls have stood the test of time, maintaining their status as a timeless classic.1 Differing from other glitzy and glamorous gemstones, the pearl produces a classic and elegant look in both formal and casual attire. For ages, pearls have symbolized “wealth, sophistication and power.”2

W

If you don’t own any pearls, try looking in thrift or antique stores. While you may not find the real thing, you’re sure to find faux pearls that look just as delicate and beautiful mimicking the style of Chanel. If you prefer authentic pearls, try stopping by your local jeweler or maybe even asking a relative who may be willing to part with a few pieces.9 From minimal and sleek to practical and elegant, a simple touch of pearls can enhance any look.

Throughout history, many iconic women deemed pearls the gemstone of choice. For instance, one of Audrey Hepburn’s most recognizable looks was from the movie “Breakfast At Tiffany’s,” in which Hepburn is featured wearing a large layered pearl necklace, elbow length gloves, a classic black dress and a tiara. In the early 1960s, Hepburn played a pivotal role in keeping pearls relevant by wearing classic pearl jewelry in her everyday looks.3

9 Margaret Handel, “Your Guide to Pearls: How to Wear Pearls for (Almost) Any Occasion,” Verily, Dec. 6, 2019.

Another iconic woman associated with pearls was Coco Chanel, who could always be seen with a string of pearls elegantly draped around her neck. Not many were aware that the pearls featured in her jewelry line were actually fake.4 With her faux pearls, Chanel sparked a trend of women wearing pearls not just in formal wear but also in sportswear.5 While it’s true that pearls were traditionally worn primarily by women, pearls have now transcended gender boundaries.6 Pearls are the ideal choice of gemstone not only for their delicate beauty but also because they offer an organic, sustainable alternative to cheap, nonbiodegradable jewelry.

According to Majorica, “Diamonds might be women’s best friends, but pearls are definitely a more practical and convenient choice.”7 There are numerous ways of styling pearls in order to add a touch of delicacy and elegance to any look. Try experimenting with a different shape or color of pearl to elevate your accessory collection. If you’re a fan of colorblocking, incorporating pearl accessories to an outfit can make certain colors pop. Pearls are no longer confined to just jewelry; they can be found on headbands, hairpins and even a pair of jeans.8 1 “Iconic Pearls and the Women Who Wore Them,” Schiffmans, May 30, 2018.

2 Kim Parker, “Return of the Power Pearls,” Harper’s Bazaar, Feb. 24, 2022.

3 “Iconic Pearls and the Women Who Wore Them,” Schiffmans, May 30, 2018.

4 Ibid.

5 Ibid.

6 “How to wear pearls? A modern guide for the contemporary woman,” Majorica, 2022.

7 Ibid.

8 Ibid.

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ARTS

Timelessness Why directors are still making black-and-white movies Written by and graphic by Kayla Hendrikse, Staff Writer

n an era dominated by color and advanced technology, it might come as a surprise that directors are still creating films in black and white. Some are drawn to the technical advantages, while others are captivated by the sheer simplicity of it. Without color to distract from what’s happening on the screen, black-and-white films provoke emotions and reactions from audiences that they otherwise might not have felt in technicolor counterparts.

I

The aesthetic of black-and-white filmmaking has changed the way directors play with texture, lighting, sets and depth.

Producing a film in black and white transforms a movie thematically, providing atmosphere, tone and visually striking contrast that presents a dreamlike view of the world. Additionally, by stripping the film of color, the audience is able to perceive the film in a variety of ways, allowing them to mentally fill in the colors.

I think of the classics, they’re all in black and white. So I had this idea that if I turned my films into black and white, then they’d become classics.”3 For older generations, black-and-white films provide a deep sense of nostalgia because the movies that their parents and grandparents grew up watching were predominantly in black-and-white, as color films didn’t gain popularity until the 1950s.4 While some may argue that black-and-white films have gone out of style, it’s clear that it is the essence of films that makes them timeless classics, not their usage of color. The appeal of the “traditional look” won’t go out of style anytime soon, and rather than criticize it, we can acknowledge the simplicity of colorless films that possess a beauty like no other.

Typically, these films are prime examples of realism, revealing things as they truly are – a raw version of reality. Blacks, whites and grays provide contrast that sets different tones throughout the film, whether it is eerie, horror, pain or fear.

In the horror genre, for instance, black-and-white films can easily be enhanced without color, as seen in classics like “Psycho” and “Night of the Living Dead.”

On the other hand, the addition of color to certain scenes can supply hope, happiness and optimism. For example, in the 1998 movie “Pleasantville,” the director uses the aspect of color to represent change and freedom from conservative ideals.1 In the film “Schindler’s List,” a powerful scene is featured where a young girl is spotted wearing a red coat in opposition to the colorless backdrop of misery presented behind her. The red coat is thought to symbolize innocence and elicit empathy from viewers.2 Following the uproar of success from black-and-white cinema in previous decades, some directors assumed certain effects of colorless films. Before the thriller “Parasite” won Best Picture at the 2020 Oscars, the director, Bong JoonHo, screened a black-and-white version and stated, “When 1 Ewan Kirkland, “Pleasantville and the meaning of color,” Brill, May 8, 2012.

2 Jack Walters, “Schindler’s List: What The Girl In The Red Coat Represents, Explained,” Screen Rant, March 4, 2023.

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3 Alissa Wilkinson, “Why there are so many black-and-white movies in 2021,” Vox, Nov. 9, 2021.

4 Christopher McKittrick, “How Movies Went From Black and White to Color,” Liveaboutdotcom, June 21, 2019.

Shattered Reflections: The Unattainable Ideal in the Evolution of Beauty Standards

CULTURE CULTURE

How appearance culture dominates the pursuit of an ever changing ideal Written by Kate Dietz, Staff Writer Photography by Paige Valley, Creative Team Modeled by Allia Yasmine TW: Discussion of eating disorders, body image and broader mental health topics

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tandards of beauty: ever-changing, all-consuming and infinitely unachievable. Even before the emergence of social media, women were sold fad diets and workout videos, urged to join the latest health craze or taunted by images of impossibly thin, beautiful women in movies and on magazine covers.

Resistance against the ideal beauty standards has always been brewing, but in recent years, these rebellions are becoming mainstream. In the “Miss Americana” documentary, Taylor Swift discusses her struggles with disordered eating and body image, saying “there’s always some standard that you’re not meeting, cause if you’re thin enough then you don’t have that ass that everybody wants, but if you have enough weight on you to have an ass, then your stomach isn’t flat enough, it’s all just fucking impossible.”1 Another instance of this discussion is referenced in one of the most talked-about films of the year: “Barbie.”

America Ferrera’s monologue in the movie about the impossibility of being 1 Lana Wilson, “Miss Americana,” United States, 2020.

a woman particularly resonated with viewers. In case you missed it, here’s an excerpt: “You have to be thin, but not too thin. And you can never say you want to be thin. You have to say you want to be healthy, but also you have to be thin. You have to have money, but you can’t ask for money because that’s crass. You have to be a boss, but you can’t be mean.”2 This commentary spoke to the complicated reality of being a woman and how difficult it is to keep up with society’s expectations of how a woman should behave, achieve and look.

that thinner was better, and this ideal of a slender, waifish body stuck for decades.3

Appearance culture has reinvented the ideal body so many times that it can be compared to a trending hairstyle or handbag. The never-ending cycle of trendy body types makes attaining the perfect image virtually impossible.

This socially constructed cage of body standards has been present for centuries. 17th and 18th century art depicted Venus’s desirable curves. The 18th and 19th century saw the rise of understructure, like corsets and hoop skirts, to create a tiny waist, and billowing skirts. The 1920s pushed the narrative

Contemporary appearance culture is constantly switching up what it demands from women, and being bombarded with these ‘trends’ is exhausting. These ever changing ideals have been proven to impact women’s eating habits. According to the University of Wisconsin-Madison, “the highest reported prevalence of disordered eating occurred during the 1920s and 1980s, the two periods during which

2 Greta Gerwig, “Barbie,” United States, 2023.

In the 2000s, the ideal curvaceous body returned, which can be, in part, credited to the Kardashians, who are a special case study in influence. The Kardashians, known for their extensive plastic surgery work, set the ideals for an exaggerated hourglass body in the 2000s. The scale of the Kardashians’ brands and social presence pushed this idea of the perfect body in the minds of hundreds of thousands of women.4

3 Jacqueline Howard, “How the ‘ideal’ woman’s body shape has changed throughout history,” CNN, 2018.

4 Hannah Yasharoff, “Kylie Jenner is ready to talk about the Kardashians’ body image problem. Is it too late?,” USA Today, 2023.

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the ‘ideal woman’ was thinnest in US history.”5 Even before a world with social media, societal expectations of beauty had irreversible impacts.

Social media has since increased the sense that body image is essential to a person’s worth: “The acceleration of highly visual culture, facilitated by digital technologies in recent years, has exacerbated the extent to which the body’s appearance is a central source of capital for individuals worldwide.”6 Clearly, the content that people consume on a dayto-day basis influences how they view themselves and the value they place in their image.

Media is not the only factor that creates pressure to appear a certain way. The Almond Mom stereotype can serve as an example of the generational transmission of beauty standards and expectations. For context, the Almond Mom is any individual who’s been indoctrinated by diet culture, specifically of the 90s, and projects these negative habits and ideas surrounding food onto their children. The Almond Mom’s children grow up with skewed ideas about gaining weight, consuming food and exercising. When beauty standards are reinforced by our role models and passed down generationally, they become seemingly unavoidable.

Thankfully, social media acts a double-edged sword, and the body positivity movement is beginning to offset the “perfect” bodies that have clogged feeds for years. Positive change is beginning to be seen in broader corporate marketing, as well as entertainment. Project Runway recently aired their first inclusive season, with size 0-22 models.7 Although it may be difficult to see, the trend cycle that is the female body is beginning to be dismantled. We can all help the body positivity movement. Something as simple as giving non-appearance related compliments or even having positive self-talk can help shift the narrative about our bodies to one that isn’t focused on physical characteristics, but rather the joy and confidence that comes from loving the body that is uniquely yours.

5 Ibid.

6 Rachel Rodgers, “Body image as a global mental health concern,” NLM, 2023.

7 Christian Siriano, “‘Project Runway’s’ Season 17 is more inclusive because the fashion industry is (finally) evolving,” NBC News, 2019.

Photography by Paige Valley, Creative Team Modeled by Allia Yasmine

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Glamorous Glasses

LIFESTYLE

Drinks from classic films for any occasion Written by Mi Chuinda Levy, Lifestyle Editor Graphic by Ari Tweedy, Creative Team

Hot Toddy

The Hot Toddy emerged from “Pot O’Gold” (1941), and it’s truly a surprising liquid treasure, bringing together hot tea and whiskey!

When to make? This cozy beverage is perfect for sipping anytime you’re feeling under the weather! And especially for those rough days, consider adding a honey cough drop for an extra soothing touch.

Ingredients - 1 oz whiskey or brandy - Honey to taste - 2 tsp lemon juice - Hot black tea - Nutmeg, cinnamon or clove (optional) Instructions 1. Steep your black tea and pour into a mug or glass leaving room for the fun stuff.

2. Add honey, lemon and whiskey or brandy, stir.

3. Garnish with nutmeg, cinnamon or clove if you desire.

Under the weather but still have to power through your day? Try a Hot Java Toddy! Ditch the black tea bag and add hot water and your favorite coffee liqueur combined with the ingredients above.

Recipes from Highbrow Magazine and Men's Journal

Vesper Martini

Everyone knows James Bond’s classic martini order, but how many know it originated from the Ian Flemming novel “Casino Royale” (1953), and first appeared on Hollywood’s big screen in “Dr. No” (1962)?

When to make? When you’re craving nostalgia and desire a shaken drink, not sirred *wink wink.* Ingredients - 3 oz gin - 1 oz vodka - ½ ounce Lillet Blanc wine - Lemon twist - Ice Instructions 1. Whip out your cocktail shaker and add all ingredients except the lemon twist.

2. Give everything a good shake.

3. Strain well into glass and top with the lemon twist.

Recipe from Highbrow Magazine

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Mulled Wine

This cocktail has gained its renown thanks to the film “It’s a Wonderful Life” (1946), and it must be acknowledged that it truly adds a wonder to your life when mulled wine is in the mix!

When to make? Anytime you need to be the hostess with the mostest! This recipe is so simple to half, double or quadruple to meet your party needs.

Ingredients - 1 bottle dry red wine - 2 oz port or brandy - 6 whole cloves - 1 orange, zested - Cinnamon sticks or freshly ground nutmeg Instructions 1. Combine all ingredients except for cinnamon sticks or nutmeg in a large pot.

2. Heat on low and bring to a simmer.

3. Stir occasionally for 20-25 minutes.

4. Take off heat and transfer to a serving bowl.

5. Garnish with cinnamon sticks or nutmeg.

Eager for a new classic? Take this party drink up a notch by swapping brandy for honey whiskey! You could even add apple cider because what isn’t better with apple cider (that’s right, nothing)!

French 75

Romance your taste buds with the sophistication of this delightful beverage, which earned Hollywood’s seal of approval following its debut in “Casablanca” (1942).

When to make? The versatility of this sweet, bubbly and light drink knows no bounds! Whether it’s breakfast, brunch or lunch, you can enjoy it on any occasion!

Ingredients - 1 oz gin or cognac - ½ oz fresh lemon juice - ½ oz simple syrup - 3 oz champagne or dry sparkling wine - Ice - Lemon twist Instructions 1. Add all ingredients into a shaker except the champagne and lemon twist.

2. Strain into glass and top with champagne and lemon twist.

Truly romanticize the lovely French 75 with a touch of elderflower! Add ¼ -½ oz of elderflower liqueur like like St. Germain to the recipe above in step one and enjoy!

Recipes by New York Times Cooking

Recipe from Highbrow Magazine

NA Martini

Want to shake up your martini routine? Try a refreshing, non-alcoholic cucumber vesper!

Ingredients - 3-5 cucumber slices - ¼ oz lemon simple syrup - 2 barspoons apple cider vinegar - 2 ½ oz gin (Ritual Gin Alternative) - 1 ½ oz Amethyst Lemon Cucumber Serrano - ½ oz dry vermouth (like Lyre’s Aperitif Dry) - 5 dashes orange bitters Instructions 1. Muddle 3 cucumber slices in a shaker tin with the lemon simple syrup and apple cider vinegar.

2. Add gin, Amethyst, dry vermouth, bitters and ice then shake, shake, shake!

3. Strain through a mesh sieve.

4. Garnish with a fresh cucumber slice or two.

Recipe from All The Bitter

Manhattan

While some prefer their drinks hot, others opt for the chill of an ice-cold Manhattan. Coincidentally, this refreshing version of the cocktail was popularized thanks to its appearance in the film “Some Like It Hot” (1959).

When to make? Make this chilled drink when you need to cool down and unwind after a long day.

Ingredients - 2 oz rye or bourbon whiskey - 1 oz sweet vermouth - 2 dashes Angostura or orange bitters - Ice - Maraschino cherry Instructions 1. Add all ingredients into a shaker except the maraschino cherry.

2. Shake it real good then strain into glass.

3. Top with cherry.

Why have one cherry when you can have more!? Pop your cherry with a twist on the classic Manhattan with its cousin, the Brooklyn cocktail. Ditch the orange bitters, swap the sweet vermouth with dry vermouth, and, most importantly, add ¼ oz of maraschino liqueur! Follow the instructions above and savor the difference.

Recipe from The Epicurious Test Kitchen

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Snapshots from the Past

CULTURE

The resurgence of film and early digital photography in our evolving digital world Written by Madison Luick, Staff Writer Photography by Rayyan Bhatti, Shoot Production Coordinator and Leo Randle, Creative Team Modeled by Madison Luick, Staff Writer, Kaitlyn Ard, Staff Writer and Alayna Tucker

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s time inevitably escapes us, we have come to depend on photos to capture the fleeting moments.

Photography’s unique ability to preserve memories and tell stories has become valuable as life moves faster and faster. It takes only a second to pull out your phone, swipe to the camera and forever memorialize your friends’ embarrassing dance moves at a party, those flowers you bought at the farmers market or slides the professor is moving through too quickly.

However, while one picture may say a thousand words, a thousand pictures might speak too many words. You might struggle to recall events at a concert the night before, but thankfully your camera roll is full of blurry photos and unshareable videos with your out-of-tune singing downing out the artists’ music. The concert, once a vivid experience, now fades into the background as you realize you experienced it primarily through the lens of your camera, preoccupied with capturing the perfect shot. The obsession with capturing the perfect photo can easily transform into an addiction, causing you to miss the moments that matter and are unfolding in front of you.

celebrity, just paparazzi fighting for the photo of the night.

The process of capturing said photo includes taking countless pictures of the subject, looking for monetization rather than nostalgic or sentimental value. All the personality in the photo is reduced to a dollar amount or the gossip it tells, and if it doesn’t succeed at this, photographers can always take more photos.

In commercial photography centers, photos are meant to be flawless and artificial. At Glamour Shots, a popular photography store in the 90s, individuals, couples or families would pay $29.95 for a makeover and photography session, characterized by heavy eye makeup, big hair and satin gloves.4 They would then be posed in front of the camera for the perfect shot that could be attached to a resume or plastered over a Christmas card. Glamour Shots, once con4 Mark Dent, “The Last Five Glamour Shots Locations in the United States,” The New York Times, May 10, 2019.

The ability to catch valuable moments on camera led to the rise of the paparazzi industry in the 1950s.1 Quickly snapping multiple pictures revolutionized the industry. While a paparazzi photographer may take hundreds of photos, one single photo of a scandalous embrace or tearful goodbye can currently make upwards of $15,000.2 Peter Grossman, a photo editor for Us Weekly, said the magazine “paid ‘mid six figures’ for a series of photographs of the actress Kristen Stewart in a passionate embrace with Rupert Sanders,” says Allison Schrager, a writer for BBC news.3 These images might capture a juicy story in a single photo, yet the photography is removed and lacks personality.

Oftentimes there is no conversation or connection with the 1 Daniel Ganninger, “The Origin of the Paparazzi,” Medium, May 31, 2021 2 Allison Schrager, “The ‘Golden Years’ of Paparazzi Have Mostly Gone,” BBC, Apr. 24, 2019.

3 Ibid.

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sisting of 350 stores in multiple countries, attracted Gen-X teens, Boomer moms and families. Now, only five locations remain in the United States.5 Recently, film and early 2000s point-and-shoot digital cameras have flashed brightly back into the spotlight, slowing the search for the perfect shot through hundreds of pictures.

The popularity of these candid, imperfect shots has led to the revival of the film developing and film camera industry, a market that quite literally was dying out. Kodak, who once sold 90% of the film in the U.S., filed for bankruptcy in 2012, succumbing to the rise of the digital age.6 However, Kodak, alongside Fujifilm and Harman Technology, have been on the come-up thanks to the increase in demand for film, specifically Ilford Photo black-and-white film.7 “[Film manufacturers] are rejuvenating their sales and marketing efforts, with Harman pushing for the creation of new courses, new darkrooms and exhibitions across the U.K. and the U.S. Kodak is retooling its entire social media strategy and if this year’s [Consumer Electronics Show] is any indication, Kodak has certainly struck a chord with film-curious photographers,” said Olivier Laurent from Time Magazine.8 Suddenly, social media feeds are full of blurry, over exposed, slightly grainy photos shot on film during weekend camping trips, parties, weddings, reunions, picnics, shopping trips, you name it.

An additional feature of film cameras is that they don’t allow photographers to see the image instantly. Photographers 5 Ibid.

6 Rupert Neate, “Kodak Falls in the ‘Creative Destruction of the Digital Age,” The Guardian, Jan. 19, 2012.

7 Olivier Laurent, “This is Why Film Photography is Making a Comeback,” Time Magazine, Jan. 26, 2017.

8 Ibid.

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have to bring negatives to film shops and get them developed before the final photo is revealed. The photo can’t be immediately critiqued and retaken in the moment. Film and point-and-shoot photography discourages an obsession with choosing the best photo, editing it until it’s unrecognizable and posting it for followers to see. Unlike swiping into Instagram’s built-in camera, a film or digital camera exists separate from the social media platform. The disconnect from social media allows people to exist in the moment, rather than become distracted with content creation.

With the resurgence of film and early digital photography, it is not unusual that only a single photo of the moment exists, commemorating the moment and making the snapshot rare and valuable. Disposable cameras have the same effect; with only 36 exposures, every snap must count. The scarcity of the image suggests it deserves to be memorialized in a photo album, taped on the corner of a mirror or put in a wallet. Having fewer of something makes that item more valuable, and holding a physical copy can be an “external receptacle” of our fondest memories, celebrations, triumphs, travels and relationships.9 The photo is an extension of ourselves and a reflection of who we are at the same time, making it all the more valuable.

If glamour is all about getting the perfect shot, and digital cameras push us away from the perfect shot, where has glamour gone? The answer is that glamour hasn’t left. Rather, our definition and perception of glamour has changed with our media preferences. As photography becomes increasingly accessible, it’s easy to focus on aimlessly creating content and analyzing every photo. The resurgence of film and digital photography reminds us of the value of photography, allowing us to capture a memory and cherish it forever.

9 Christian Jarrett, “The Psychology of Stuff and Things,” The British Psychological Society, Aug. 13, 2013.

Donyale Luna: Supermodel, Role Model

FASHION

The first Black supermodel and her lasting impact Written by Noa Chamberlin, Editorial Director Graphic by Meghan Price, Creative Team TW: Discussion of racial discrimination and prejudice

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orn in Detroit in 1945, Peggy Ann Freeman likely never imagined the profound influence she would come to wield. During her teenage years, she adopted the name Donyale Luna, a name that would soon resonate in the world of fashion.1 Luna led a modest life, with her main focus on school, church and local theater.2 Her life took a remarkable turn in 1963 when fashion photographer David McCabe discovered her in Detroit. Observing the nearly 6-foot tall and statuesque Luna, McCabe recognized her potential and offered to assist her in pursuing a modeling career in New York.3 At the ripe age of nineteen, Luna made the bold move of leaving her life behind to chase her dream of becoming an actress in Manhattan. It was 1964, a time when the American Civil Rights Movement had recently made significant strides, and New York was at the cusp of a cultural transformation.4 Luna’s rise to fame mirrored the evolving landscape of diversity.

During the 1960s, the fashion world predominantly featured solely white models, but Luna’s fame was ascending rapidly. She became a central figure in the lenses of prominent photographers of the era, including Andy Warhol and renowned fashion photographer Richard Avedon.5 Avedon was so enthralled by Luna’s unique appearance that he offered her a contract and consistently featured her in his photography for the American monthly women’s fashion magazine, Harper’s Bazaar.6 Because Luna’s modeling career began 1 Dream Cazzaniga, “Donyale Luna Changed The Face Of Fashion In The ’60s. Now, the Revolutionary Black Model is Finally Getting Her Due,” British Vogue, Sept. 18, 2023.

2 Ibid.

3 Ibid.

4 Daphene McFerren, “The Civil Rights Movement: A Cultural Revolution,” The University of Memphis, last updated in May, 2023.

5 Ibid.

6 Mikelle Street, “HBO’s Latest Documentary Sheds Light On Donyale Luna, The First Black Supermodel,” Essence, Sept. 25, 2023.

to take off alongside the Civil Rights Movement, Luna, without choice, became a symbol of the changing times.7 In the realm of the fashion industry, the cultural phenomenon termed “Swinging London” was an era of fashion that celebrated youth culture, emphasizing music and fashion.8 It was during this time that Luna made her entrance into the fashion world.

Yet, the fashion industry was far from diverse. Luna was a standout figure.

Her striking face graced the pages of magazines, and she was featured on spreads alongside luminaries like Bob Dylan and young Jean Shrimpton.9 Her life was undeniably glamorous.

While Luna’s rapid ascent to fame might seem like a dream come true, she was also stranded in the midst of controversy and racial discrimination.

On one hand, Luna symbolized a new era, serving as an inspiration to people of color finally gaining visibility in the spotlight of stardom.

Contrarily, Luna’s presence challenged the status quo, prompting some advertisers to withdraw their support from magazines that featured her, and causing readers to cancel subscriptions when Luna’s face appeared on the pages.10 While Luna was able to live her dream of fame and fortune in the Big Apple, a world filled with glamour and excitement, she also endured disregard and discrimination due to her identity as a Black woman. To escape these challenges, she eventually decided to move to Europe.11 Luna’s life was glamorous, but she could never fully evade prejudice.

Her career truly blossomed after she relocated overseas. Luna graced the 7 Ibid.

8 Karina Reddy, “1960-1969,” Fashion History Timeline, Aug. 18, 2020.

9 Ibid.

10 Beatrice Dupuy, “‘Donyale Luna: Supermodel’ shines a light on the first Black model to grace cover of Vogue,” Associated Press, Sept. 20, 2023.

11 Ibid.

cover of British Vogue and became an overnight sensation, captivating people worldwide with her look, leaving them in awe.12 But the pressures of fame, the fashion world and the allure of drugs proved overwhelming. In 1979, Luna tragically passed away at the age of 33 due to an accidental overdose.13 Although her life ended abruptly and far too soon, Luna left behind a legacy that will forever be remembered and honored. She paved the way for the world we live in today and remains an enduring source of inspiration and a revolutionary figure, tragically ahead of her time.

In September of this year, the documentary ‘Donyale Luna: Supermodel’ was released and is currently streaming on Max. The documentary is a poignant retelling of Luna’s life and the way her face captivated the fashion world during a time when white beauty standards reigned supreme. This film is narrated by Luna’s daughter.

Despite the controversy and the relentless fight against racial discrimination and prejudice that Luna faced, she persevered and made her mark on the industry, leaving a lasting impact that would forever alter the course of the fashion world.

12 Ibid.

13 Ibid.

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ARTS

The Not-So-Glamorous Hollywood Gaze Hollywood’s gatekeeping of femininity Written by Francesca Smith, Staff Writer Photography by Elise Wilson, Creative Director Shoot Direction by Emily Han, Shoot Production Coordinator Videography by Cate Tarr, Arts Editor Modeled by Cherry Qiu, Malia Ford TW: Discussion of sexual exploitation

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t’s impossible to define femininity because being a woman is no individual concept or characteristic.

Womanhood can be reminiscent of the romanticism found in a good book, the elegance of art galleries or the simple pleasure of sipping a cup of tea. But womanhood is also entwined with the harsh realities of being catcalled on the way to class or keeping a close eye on your drink at a party.

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The film industry’s one-dimensional perception of women based on their sexuality is damaging for gender equality and feminism. Hollywood is notorious for romanticizing womanhood through the lens of the male gaze. Less overtly, the sexualization and even girlish view of femininity.

Feminine liberation blossomed in the 1920s with the emergence of the “flap-

per.” Defined by their short hair, rebellious cigarettes and untamed lifestyles, these young women set the stage for modern sexual freedoms.1 Flappers caused a massive culture shock by deviating from the traditional gender roles that were expected of them.

1 Sarah Pruitt, “How Flappers of the Roaring Twenties Redefined Womanhood,” History, Sept.

17, 2018 (Updated April 16, 2021).

Zelda Sayre Fitzgerald encapsulated the epitome of the flapper lifestyle. Fitzgerald worked as an artist, writer and dancer, and later acted as a muse for her husband, author F. Scott Fitzgerald.2 She embodied flapper culture through her attendance at wild parties, which in turn inspired her husband to write “The Great Gatsby.”

However, 1920s flappers faced scathing judgment for defying traditional gender roles. Older generations perceived flappers as socially acceptable prostitutes because of their flamboyant makeup and strong personalities.3 Flappers’ lenient attitudes towards sex led them to use contraceptives such as diaphragms and IUDs, and their liberal use of the birth control movement only increased resistance from older generations.4 At the time, the prevailing gender norms dictated that women should stay at home, tending to their children and husband.

In addition to flappers, another icon of popular culture, Marilyn Monroe, who was understood as an embodiment of allure and a symbol of struggle, became romanticized by the public. Yet behind closed doors, Monroe struggled with depression, anxiety and substance abuse.5 Monroe also experienced intense misogyny in 1950s Hollywood. Studio tycoons were quick to frame Monroe’s typecast movie characters as “dumb blondes.” Initially uncomfortable with her habitually sexualized roles in movies – such as her erotic appearance in “The Seven Year Itch” (1955) – Monroe was pressured into catering to the male gaze throughout her career as a model and actress.6 Hollywood’s exploitation of Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s and the public’s hostility towards flapper culture in the 1920s prove to be only a few examples of femininity defined by the patriarchy.

This inequality and abuse persists today; many hit films are lacking beneficial female representation, and the feminine depictions are all too often minor roles with traditional gender stereotypes.7 Despite this long and unfortunate history, there’s still hope for equity. These 2 Ibid.

3 Ibid.

4 Ching Yee Lin, “Bad Girls of the 1920s: What You Didn’t Know About Flappers,” The Collector, March 5, 2023.

5 Dr. Howard Markel, “Marilyn Monroe and the prescription drugs that killed her,” PBS, Aug. 5, 2016.

6 Naima Preudhomme, “The Misunderstanding of Marilyn Monroe,” Highland Piper, May 12, 2022.

7 Pamela Hutchinson, “Moguls and starlets: 100 years of Hollywood’s corrosive, systemic sexism,” The Guardian, Oct. 19, 2017.

structural issues may seem out of our reach, but there’s steps we, the audience, can take to promote a productive environment in Hollywood. This may include further discussion of gender representation in the social and academic environment, or simply keeping these issues in mind when deciding what next movie to watch.

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The People’s Princess – Audrey Hepburn

CULTURE

The iconic moviestar’s rise to fame and how the beautiful, talented woman we know today is not the same person the media saw during her lifetime Written by Sophie Hyman, Staff Writer Graphic by Bri Stevens, Creative Team

Born in Brussels, Belgium, amid the uproar of World War II, emerged a young Jewish girl who would become a beautiful, timeless star – Audrey Kathleen Ruston, better known as Audrey Hepburn.1 Hepburn has been, and will forever be, remembered as a figure of class and grace. Born into high-status but forced to relocate to Nazi-occupied Holland at the age of 6 years old, she finally found refuge and escaped to England, where she was educated. Growing up having danced ballet, in her 20s, Hepburn performed to raise money for the Dutch Resistance to WWII.2 While her initial debut into acting consisted of smaller roles, in 1953, Hepburn landed a starring role in the renowned movie “Roman Holiday.”3 This role proved to be career-altering, transforming Audrey Hepburn from an unknown actress into a well-known name, bringing unprecedented fame, glory and stardom. Hepburn’s grace and beauty charmed millions of viewers, leaving an undeniable mark on the film and fashion worlds.

Gregory Peck, her co-star in “Roman Holiday,” reminisced about their time together. “It was my good luck during that wonderful summer in Rome, to be the first of her screen fellows, to hold out my hand, and help her keep her balance as she did her spins and pirouettes, making the whole world fall in love with her,” said Peck. “Those months were probably the happiest experience I ever had making movies.”4 Beyond film stardom, Hepburn worked as a Goodwill Ambassador of UNICEF, specifically focusing on aiding children in Ethiopia. She provided them with a voice using her fame and influence.5 She discussed her work with UNICEF and specifically child hunger all over the media. Additionally, she took trips to other countries, meeting children in schools, working on clean drinking water projects, explored nutrition and more. She discussed all of this often, she is even recorded to have done 15 interviews in regards to the subject in a day.4 Despite her humanitarian contributions, this aspect of her life was not the focus of her as a person.

Hepburn’s personal life was far from perfection, beginning with her father’s departure at a young age and two tumultuous marriages. Her first marriage was with actor and director Mel Ferrer who was said to mirror her father in his controlling nature. Her second marriage with psychiatrist Andrea Dotti, ended after cheating. After these failed marriages, Hepburn finally met the faithful and kind TV actor Robert Wolders, and though never formalized in marriage, the two were bound until her death. These struggles in her personal life, often overshadowed during her lifetime, came 1 Britannica, T. Editors of Encyclopedia, “Audrey Hepburn,” Encyclopedia Britannica, Oct. 25, 2023.

2 Ibid.

3 “Audrey Hepburn,” Wikipedia, Nov. 8, 2023.

4 “Gregory Peck: A Bio-Bibliography by Gerard Molyneaux.”

5 “Audrey Hepburn,” UNICEF, 2023.

to light only after her passing, revealing a woman who faced struggles with a strongwill and charisma, in addition to the pure elegance she presented.6 “The best-kept secret about Adurey was that she was sad,” Hepburn’s granddaughter revealed in the 2020 film “AUDREY.”5 Hepburn’s time in the Netherlands under Nazi occupation was just one of the major impacts that established challenges in her later life. Hepurn was unable to pursue her dreams of being a professional ballerina prior to acting, having faced malnutrition in her childhood.7 The film also portrayed her dissatisfaction with her appearance, wishing for blonde hair and a fuller frame.

Regarded as one of the most beautiful women of her time, it is a shock to many that she was displeased with how she looked. Behind the scenes, she battled nervousness, constantly smoking and even asking for re-shots throughout filming. It was also revealed that Hepubrn had a deep anger within her, stemming from her childhood experience with malnutrition, further reflected in her devotion to the present issue of child hunger.

Although there is great talk of Hepburn’s ‘secret’ life, her platform of helping people was typically disregarded in interviews, and her mental and physical health struggles were ignored. So long as she lived, Hepburn was fortunate enough to have a platform, unlike others at the time. However, her death brought forward a new understanding of who she really was. Portrayed to be charmingly innocent and sophisticated, the ‘perfect woman’ Audrey Hepburn appears to be is merely a small section of her true self.

The fashion and other media’s fixation with her today, only scratches the surface of the incredibly beloved Hepburn.

The media of Hepburn’s time would not allow her image of grace to be portrayed as struggling or anything less than perfection.

Hepburn’s reputation of flawless grace represents a mere fraction of the complex, multifaceted woman she was. Although still deserving of the wonderful ways her beauty is described, the enchantment surrounding Audrey Hepburn extends beyond the surface, in her normalcy and intricacies. Hepburn is far from a ‘perfect woman,’ but beauty exists in appreciating every aspect of her life – from her struggles to her triumphs to everything in between.

6 Ella, Alexander, “From Childhood Famine to Bad Relationships: The Truth about Audrey Hepburn,” Harper’s Bazaar, Nov. 20, 2020.

7 Ibid.

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FASHION

A Touch of Luxury How rich fabrics are making a comeback Written by Audrey Weber, Staff Writer Photography by Nina Malhotra, Creative Team Styled by Sara Debuhr, Styling Coordinator Modeled by Kaitlyn Ard, Staff Writer

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n the alluring era of old Hollywood, metallics, silks and velvets effortlessly draped the shoulders of the famous and powerful. At its core, this power struggle grappled with the idea of keeping glamour seemingly unattainable to the average person while making it aspirational and attractive.1 Today, these stylistic elements narrate a different, more inclusive story.

resurgence in 2023, let’s delve into metallics. Whether it’s from Taylor Swift, TikTok or designer brands, you’ve likely seen metallics monopolize the fashion industry this past year.4 Similar to velvet, metallics can play either the starring role or an extremely elevating supporting role in your outfit.

If you want to go all in, play around with gold or silver jeans or a sequin mini/maxi skirt. Either way, you can dress the look down with a t-shirt, cardigan and sneakers. If you’re not looking to emulate a disco ball on a daily basis, metallic accessories offer a more subtle approach. Silver loafers or a chic shoulder bag immediately add dimension and eye-catching elements to any outfit.

Like most fashion trends, these fabrics eventually recirculated. These materials, once characterized by their exclusivity, unusual elements and exquisite extravagance, are resurfacing in unexpected ways. No longer reserved for highly glamorous settings or exclusive to the elite, these fabrics are reentering the fashion scene to uniquely elevate every- As these glamorous elements recirculate, they may seem day basics.2 intimidating. However, their versatility and unconventionality are something to celebrate and experiment with rather With this reemergence comes a need for widespread styl- than fear and shy away from. Especially in the case of meing guidance. Many associate these elements – metallics, tallics and the trajectory of many trends, the question of silks/satins and velvets – with high-profile individuals and timelessness cannot be ignored. It’s hard to say right now elaborate events, making it intimidating to adopt them into if the resurgence of these elements will fall victim to being everyday wear. However, beyond their eye-catching predis- a microtrend, but don’t let that scare you from partaking. position, these fabrics offer extensive versatility.

Many of these elements, especially silk/satin and velvet, can be discovered secondhand. By doing so, you can have fun Let’s first take a look at styling silk/satin silhouettes. An experimenting with them without contributing to fast fasheasy and popular way to incorporate silk/satin into your ion and overconsumption – a win-win! look is with a slip skirt or dress. For daytime wear, pair it with a t-shirt or sweater and sneakers to tone down the il- Take a risk and see where it takes you! These stylistic elelustrious fabric. To transition the same garment for evening ments, once reserved for those with fame and fortune, are wear, trade in the t-shirt for a more elevated blouse and the rebranding themselves in cool and casual ways for everyday sneakers for a heel or cowboy boot. If skirts and dresses ar- people just like you and me. Universally, let’s reframe our en’t your preference, opt for silk/satin blouses or tank tops, mindset and see paired with jeans and sneakers or styled similarly to a slip where the glossy skirt. The possibilities are truly endless! silks/satins, mysterious velvets and Next, let’s play around with velvet garments. Velvet can be invigorating meuniquely challenging to style year-round due to its wintery tallics can take us weight and depth. But don’t fret, there are simple ways to in our everyday exincorporate it without immediately sending you into a win- pression of fashion. ter slump. As we approach the cooler seasons, look no further than velvet dresses or blazers. Similar to silk/satin, you can dress down the seemingly lavish fabric with sneakers, 4 Julia Marzovilla, “The Metallic Trend Is Huge jeans or t-shirts layered underneath. If you’re dressing for for 2023–Here’s How To a warmer climate or you prefer smaller incorporations, try Wear It,” Marie Claire, velvet accessories. Whether it’s a discrete headband or a April 3, 2023. fun ballet flat or heels, these additions of velvet can add an unexpected layer of texture to any outfit. Velvet can seamlessly transition from day to night-wear in any styling.3 Lastly, and probably the element that has had the biggest 1 Kristin Hunt, “How Hollywood Sold Glamour,” Jstor Daily, Sept. 24, 2020.

2 Caia Hagel, “The Metallic Trend Is Huge for 2023–Here’s Why,” Elle Canada, Aug. 21, 2023 3 Joy Montogmery, “Don’t Listen to the Haters–You Can Wear Velvet in the Daytime,” Who What Wear, Jan. 6, 2019.

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STAGE There is always an audience

Directed by Rayyan Bhatti, Shoot Production Coordinator Photography by Paige Valley, Creative Team Videography and styling by Molly Ford, Head of Videography Modeled by Isabella Rotfeld, Creative Team

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ARTS

The Brilliance of Sofia Coppola Portraying authentic perspective in “Marie Antionette” Written by Cate Tarr, Arts Editor Graphic by Meghan Price, Creative Team

hrough a disguised motif, a short line of dialogue or a wry glance accompanied by an emblem of light, Sofia Coppola, director of 2023 film “Priscilla” starring Jacob Elordi and Cailee Spaney, demonstrates mastery in illustrating perspective.

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While Coppola initially gained recognition for her successful directorial debut, “The Virgin Suicides,” in 1999, and her oscar winning original screenplay “Lost in Translation” in 2004, my recent discovery of her work occurred during a film class while writing a paper on her 2006 biopic, “Marie Antionette.”1 Challenged with the task of dissecting the film’s narrative structure according to contemporary Hollywood norms, I found myself encountering a storytelling technique entirely born of its own.

when a woman’s life experience was rarely defined by herself.

While lacking control over her own life, Antionette’s partying is not portrayed as an active attempt to derail the court’s goals but rather as an expression of the tension she experiences juggling her desires when her life is constrained according to the expectations of others.

Most importantly, the individuals shaping Antionette’s life, including her husband and her mother, are people she genuinely cares about. In my own personal viewings, I’ve noticed that oftentimes, films attempt to emulate a fem-

Coppola prioritizes powerful images and short lines of dialogue, urging viewers to digest her film closely by piecing together its subtleties.

Her films are elevated by an elegant aesthetic that utilizes sound, costuming and other cinematic elements that develop the film’s overall structure.

In “Marie Antionette,” instead of focusing on the dramatic nature of Antionette’s nobel life, Coppola tells a story about a 14-year-old girl chosen to marry Louis XVI. Coppola writes Antionette as lighthearted and childish, imploring a contemporary soundtrack and modern props for various party scenes, conveying girlhood within Antionette’s royal life in a relatable way.

Coppola illustrates the oppressive social order of “Marie Antionette” by showcasing Antionette’s internal struggle between a genuine desire to fulfill familial expectation and her own hope for life during a period of history 1 Juan Velazquez, “Here’s every Sofia Coppola Film, Ranked,” Movie Web, Nov., 2023.

inist narrative by painting the female protagonist as pursuing personal desires out of disdain for societal expectations that conflict with her personal goals.

However, “Marie Antionette” introduces a more nuanced and, consequently, more depressing narrative. Due to an oppressive social order, Antionette was not able to achieve her personal desires or even allot the time to discover the possibilities of what her desires could be.

Although Antionette does find time to explore her interests, including performing in the opera house and tending to a garden in her second home in

the country, she is always restrained by the court. The pull to pursue her own desires are always pushed back by the reality that her life is not defined by herself.

Coppola’s depiction of the agency lost in Antionette’s life due to societal expectations, including marriage and motherhood, extends to contemporary pressures placed upon women everywhere. Oftentimes, women prioritize the desires of those they care about over their own – a prioritization founded on genuine care for those individuals. Despite those counting on Antoinette and women everywhere, they, like all of us, nevertheless exist as humans who desire fulfillment, human connection and love.

Coppola’s ability to express the internal life of her characters defines her filmmaking. She said in an interview, “I don’t want my movies to feel like movies…I want them to feel like life.”2 Her sentiment shines through each shot, each cut and each line she places in her films. Coppola is known for her subtle approach, skillfully emphasizing landscapes and images in her films. By directing attention to each protagonist and their surroundings, she offers insights into how characters perceive the world and their place in it.

After finishing my paper on “Marie Antoinette” I came to realize that despite my effort to mold Coppola’s film into a classic Hollywood structure, her films are instead more honest than an historically engaging narrative style. They intentionally leave the viewer feeling unsatisfied, possibly hopeless and slightly isolated, as she mirrors the rise and fall of the narrative of life instead of the screen.

2 Carrie Rickey, “Lost and Found,” DGA Quarterly Magazine, 2013.

FALL DIGITAL 2023

Second of Many Hands Finding connections in second hand clothes

Written by Laine Bottemiller, Culture Editor Photography by Elise Wilson, Creative Director Modeled by Laine Bottemiller, Culture Editor and Katilyn Ard, Staff Writer

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’ll confess, I have a bit of a thrifting problem. Sometimes, I just can’t tell if things are genuinely cute or simply “vintage.” I’ll pick up a t-shirt, clearly a relic from some family’s 2012 white elephant exchange, bedazzled and adorned with a catchy phrase like “Pug Life,” complete with a pug striking a pose like Tupac Shakur.

Okay, but what if I cropped it and wore it with low-waisted jeans? Suddenly, the shirt exudes a campy, Y2K cool-girl vibe (yes, it definitely does.) Fine, I’ll say it – I have a soft spot for all things vintage, and I do think my clothes are distinctly cooler when I buy them second-hand. Yet, when you really think about it, what exactly is the appeal of non-new things?

In the past few years, the world of second-hand shopping has boomed into popularity. The industry is projected to grow by a staggering 127% by 2026.1 Some attribute the rise of second-hand shopping to the influence of platforms 1 “2023 Resale Market and Consumer Trend Report,” thredUP, 2023.

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like TikTok, where users flaunt their coveted thrifted items. Others credit the trend to a growing awareness of the environmental friendliness of second-hand shopping.2

cycles through shifts in public acceptance. Laver also theorized that these items begin to regain value and appreciation after they have been out of style for a certain amount of time.4

Perhaps the popularity of thrifting has become intertwined with the cyclical nature of fashion trends, where past styles resurface as current trends.

Some refer to this phenomenon as the “20-Year Rule,” which hypothesizes that trends resurface roughly 20 years after their initial popularity.3 The theory explains that inspiration for new trends reflects the clothing children saw their parents wearing as they were growing up.

“Fashion is a reflection of the social context in each era,” an exhibit at the Museum of Purpose of the Object says.

“It is evidence of the historical moment and time in which we are living.”5

Famous costume historian, James Laver, explains trends following a bell curve: a certain clothing item is most desirable when it reaches peak popularity, rising and falling from favor as it 2 Camryn Quick, “Here’s Why Thrifted Style Is One Of The Biggest Fashion Trends Right Now,” Her Agenda, February 28, 2023.

3 Sneha Konda, “Style secrets: Why do fashion trends repeat?” Medium, July 30, 2019.

Perhaps the appeal of shopping second-hand lies in the very fact that these items have passed through hands before mine. Every item in a second hand store is filled with the history of someone that loved it before. When I come across a hand-stitched shirt that reads “Best Grandma Ever,” I can’t help but think of the sorrowful hands that brought it to a Goodwill donation bin.

I might pick up a kids t-shirt, outgrown 4 Natalie Potts and Genna Reeves-DeArmond, “Re-evaluation of Laver ’s Law in the context of fashion trend revival,” International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings, January, 2014.

5 MODO Team, “Fashion and Identity — Google Arts & Culture,” Google Arts & Culture, 2016.

CULTURE daily. Their presence fulfills many of our emotional needs.9 Francine Russo from Scientific American explains how our possessions go beyond substituting important people in our lives, acting as extensions of ourselves: “We believe – or perhaps act as if we believe – that in some way, our very essence permeates our things.”10 While our clothing is a reflection of who we are, our clothes also become a part of us. We carry every moment of our days when we wear our clothes. If we’re missing our partner, perhaps we pull on their borrowed hoodie, one that smells like them and provides comfort similar to a hug. And if we break up, perhaps we pull on our shortest, most favorite skirt – a rebellious statement conveyed in fabric, one that feels like a middle finger in their face.

“History allows us to feel like we are part of something much bigger,” history professor at Delta College Dr. Amy French says. “It humbles us while inexplicably making us feel stronger, because we come from a long line of survivors, and special, because we are part of this vast chain of humanity.”11 So there – when I’m shopping second-hand, it’s not just so I can reply “Sorry, it’s thrifted,” when someone asks me where I bought a piece of clothing. Thrifting isn’t just about fashion; second-hand clothing is a connection to our past, a nod to sustainability and an appreciation to the stories carried in our clothing. When I buy second-hand things, I can only hope that the wisdom and history of the clothing’s previous owners has seeped into its threads and fibers, and that I can absorb this sagacity when I wear it too. and passed onto the next owner. Or maybe I’ll flip past a discarded wedding dress, thinking of “I Dos” exchanged and regretted.

9 Francine Russo, “Why We Become So Attached to Our Belongings,” Scientific American, May 1, 2018.

10 Ibid.

11 Amy French, “Why Visit Historical Places?” Roaming Historian, 2020.

That’s precisely why I love thrifting. If I can thrift someone else’s favorite pair of Levi’s jeans, wear them until the knees wear out and then pass them to the next person, they become more than just a pair of jeans. That next wearer isn’t just picking up the same pair of Levi’s 501s; they’re inheriting my first date with my first boyfriend, my tears of joy when I passed my driver’s test and my sweet 16th birthday party.

“Clothes are the closest thing to our bodies,” Caroyn Mair, behavioral psychologist working as a consultant in the fashion industry, says. “They’re our second skin.”6 The clothing we choose – from your best pair of jeans to the socks on your feet – are integral to how we conceptualize who we are and communicate that identity to those around us. Communication through fashion and clothing is something completely unique to humans.7 What once started as the primitive need to cover ourselves from the elements has since become an avenue of non-verbal expression, communicating our individuality, group affiliations, gender preference, cultural ties and social standing.8 Like any of our other possessions, clothing brings us comfort. Belongings are ever present and can be counted on 6 Kaitlin Luna and Carolyn Mair, “Speaking of Psychology: Psychology of fashion, with Carolyn Mair, PhD,” American Psychological Association, Podcast, 2019.

7 Ibid.

8 Vasudha Iyengar, “Do Your Clothes Reflect Your Identity?” Psych et al, May 12, 2023.

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LIFESTYLE

Be a Human Disco Ball

What the gleaming orb can teach us about intrinsic optimism Written, modeled and styled by Morgan Johnson, Public Relations Director Photography by Emma Spaciel, Head of Photography

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used to have a friend who complained constantly. Sure, we all vent from time to time – our coffee isn’t strong enough on the day we need liquid motivation the most, and our cellular data is going about as fast as the tortoise in “​​The Tortoise and The Hare” when we need to send that one text. But this girl would find the negative in everything. While I consider myself someone who inherently sees the good in things, I found the urge to complain when I was around her. Whether it was to feel included or what, I’m not sure, but I didn’t like who I became in her presence. So, I cut off our friendship. Though bittersweet, it allowed me to shift back to my own perspective and focus on the good in everything.

In doing so, I found that people are a lot like disco balls. Disco balls are complex, with hundreds or even thousands of facets glued to their core. However, you can’t see all of them from one

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side.1 You have to touch the ball, examine and turn it to see all its intricacies.

People have similar complexities. We all have facets we don’t show to people when we meet for the first time, and you can’t possibly see all of someone’s traits from one perspective or interaction. Allow people to show you vulnerability, but also respect them for things they might not want to share.

Consider the power of a disco ball in a literal sense – it needs light to shine.

Disco balls harness the sun and make a light show from it.2 Maybe we should let that inspire us to get outside and play. Although disco balls and humans seem to have nothing in common at first glance, we should make it our mission to be more like disco balls – inspiring, fun to look at and a playful representation of complexity.

1 Emily Colucci, “Disco Ball As A Metaphor: Phoenix Lindsey-Hall’s ‘Never Stop Dancing,’” Filthy Dreams, 2017.

2 Kate Silzer, “How the Disco Ball Went From a Nightclub Staple to TikTok’s Latest Decor Obsession,” Architectural Digest, 2022.

Beyond learning that it’s sometimes necessary to let people go in order to fully shine, I also learned the importance of surrounding myself with people who make me feel good. For a disco ball, that would mean shining something on it in order for it to radiate its own light. In a similar sense, when you surround yourself with positive people (or “light,” to complete the disco ball analogy), you will likely feel more positive. I’m very selective about who I let into my life, and I proactively strive to surround myself with people who feel like sunshine.

In a world full of darkness, be a light.

Be a disco ball, shine your light everywhere you go. Find the light within yourself and radiate it onto others. I won’t lie, it’s difficult to see the good in things that might ruin your day, or find the lesson in working with a difficult person. But try. Try to find a sliver of positivity in a negative situation. And at the very least, you’ll feel as good as a disco ball does when it sees people dancing and singing below it.

The Fall of Judy Garland: How Dorothy Never Did Leave Oz

ARTS

Behind the shimmering screen, one of Hollywood’s actors was doomed to substance abuse from the start Written by Kate Reuscher, Staff Writer TW: Discussion of drug use and eating disorders

he Golden Age of Hollywood, as its name suggests, is When not engrossing audiences on screen, Garland T an era that speaks for itself. Considering the revolu- was recording chart-topping songs and performing her tionary technological advances in film, like sound and color, one-woman concert at Carnegie Hall, earning five Grammy and the iconic faces on screen, like Grace Kelly and Humphrey Bogart, it’s not difficult to understand why this period dominated theaters for decades.

As America was still reeling from the tragic Great Depression, the stunning performances and cinematography of this era brought the country out of the ashes by captivating audiences with eager eyes. Films like “The Wizard of Oz” encapsulated this glittering and colorful era of film with its whimsical characters coming to life in vibrant hues. While we remember the charming character Dorothy, the girl wearing a gingham dress and the dazzling red shoes, the tragic life of actress Judy Garland held little sparkle behind the silver screen.

Born Frances Ethel Gumm in Grand Rapids, Minnesota in 1922, Garland was catapulted into the limelight early in life.1 At just 2-years-old, Garland made her debut singing “Jingle Bells” on the stage of New Grand Theater, operated by her parents Frank and Ethel Gumm.

Garland’s mother didn’t stop there; she continued to pressure her daughter into performing when the family moved to California in 1926. Now living in the hotspot of film production, Gumm brought her daughter to every gig and nightclub in town, many of which were hardly suitable environments for a child.2 In 1935, only 13 years old and barely scraping five-feet tall, Garland was signed to MGM Studios. As a result, Garland was ambushed with comments about her height and weight, nicknamed “my little hunchback” by studio head Louis B. Mayer. Garland was prescribed amphetamine-based diet pills to monitor her weight, unknowingly marking the beginning of her haunting struggle with drugs.3 Garland’s role as Dorothy in “The Wizard of Oz” cemented her as one of the defining actresses of the Golden Age of film. Her tear-jerking performance of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” in the black-and-white Kansas landscape earned an Oscar for Best Original Song, and she won an Academy Award for outstanding performance in the film.4 Garland continued to pave her way through Hollywood after her breakthrough in “The Wizard of Oz.” While at MGM, her notable performances included “The Harvery Girls” and “Easter Parade,” followed by a second wave of fame with her performance in “A Star is Born,” showcasing her riveting singing and acting skills.

1 PBS Wisconsin, “Judy Garland’s life and career timeline,” July 7, 2004.

2 Sara Kettler, “Inside Judy Garland’s Troubled Youth,” Biography, Oct. 1, 2020.

3 Ibid.

4 Scott Schechter, “Judy Garland: American singer and actress,” Britannica, Oct. 13, 2023.

Awards for these performances.5

Despite her radiant glow in the limelight, Garland’s life behind the scenes tumbled into disarray. Under the manipulative hand of studio executives, Garland was forced into the constant highs and plummeting lows of addiction to maintain her grueling schedule.

At the age of 16, she was slapped on set by director Victor Fleming and was pressured into fitting in tighter clothes to portray the childish Dorothy, leading to forced diets of strictly chicken noodle soup and cigarettes. Even after enduring this treatment, Garland was the secondlowest-paid cast member, earning more than only Toto, the beloved dog.6 When recalling her career, Garland told biographer Paul Donnelley that the process of shooting was exhaustive.

She would be given pills to stay on her feet all day, then sleeping pills to allow her a few hours of rest.7 This process was repeated over and over during filming.

Additionally, she endured a string of five tumultuous marriages that brought upon domestic abuse and forced abortions out of greed for her career. She was hospitalized numerous times to be treated for nervous breakdowns and addiction, eventually losing her contract with MGM after multiple suicide attempts. She became horribly sick with hepatitis in 1959, a direct result of previous drug prescriptions.8 Tragically, Garland died of an accidental overdose at just 47 years old, succumbing to the drug use that had been pushed upon her throughout her career.9 Considering the glamour of the Golden Age of Hollywood, the tragedy of Garland’s personal life was left hidden in the shadows. During a time when actors and actresses churned out multiple films a year, they were surviving on “pep pills” for breakfast and cigarettes for dinner. When an actress signs to one of the largest studios in Hollywood at 16 years old, she is squeezed into tight dresses and forced to stand for hours-on-end behind the camera. When she dies, it’s Dorothy’s dazzling smile on screen that the world remembers. The stories of the trauma and abuse she faced are an afterthought, not even making it in the credits.

5 Paul Grein, “Judy Garland’s Award Show History: Historic Wins and Perplexing Losses,” Billboard, June 10, 2022.

6 Hayley Dennings, “The Controversy with the Wizard of Oz,” Fable, Aug.16, 2022.

7 Erin Blakemore, “Golden Age Hollywood Had a Dirty Little Secret: Drugs,” History, March 1, 2018.

8 “Judy Garland, 47, Found Dead,” The New York Times, June 23, 1969.

9 Ibid.

FALL DIGITAL 2023

LIFESTYLE

Like a Million Bucks

Your guide to smelling expensive on a budget Written by Natasha Bernovich, Fashion Editor Graphic by Elise Wilson, Creative Director

hen it comes to radiating glamour, few aspects of Check out designer dupes W your beauty routine are as impactful as a delightful Explore designer dupes online. If you want a specific defragrance. Although simple, smelling great can often come with a steep price tag. Follow these tips to smell like Old Hollywood money without spending a fortune.

Know the different concentrations Not all fragrances are created equal. If you want to know exactly how potent a fragrance is, there is a standardized guide for how high the concentration of perfume oil is in a given scent.

- Parfum or Extrait de Parfum – 20-40% perfume oil - Eau de Parfum – 15-20% perfume oil - Eau de Toilette – 5-15% perfume oil - Eau de Cologne – 2-5% perfume oil - Eau Fraîche – 1-3% perfume oil In order to get the most bang for your buck, try purchasing fragrances that are eau de parfum or extrait de parfum.

This way, you’re not paying for a diluted formula. These fragrances are stronger smelling and longer lasting.

Stretch the life of high-end fragrances Extend the lifespan of your perfume by applying just a spritz or two at a time. If that isn’t strong enough of a scent for your liking, consider layering it with an inexpensive perfume like a dupe of the original scent or a complimentary body spray. This way, you can get the strength of fragrance you want, have a rich scent and extend the lifespan of your expensive perfume.

Timing matters Around gift-giving times like Christmas and Mother’s Day, fragrances are often available in gift sets, providing great value by getting more product or scent variety at a lower price. For example, this might be a gift set containing travel size perfume and a lotion of the same scent. Sephora, Ulta Beauty and department stores are ideal places to look for these sets. In addition, sometimes stores include freebies with the purchase of a perfume or cologne; it never hurts to ask if they have any promotions!

Find a smell-alike There are plenty of fragrances out there that smell expensive and high-end but are relatively inexpensive. For example, Cloud by Ariana Grande smells similar to Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdijan but is significantly less expensive. Zara is also known for having luxurious-smelling fragrances in a variety of scents at a fraction of the cost of designer brands.

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signer fragrance but don’t want to shell out a small fortune for a bottle, getting a dupe is a great way to smell glamorous without paying the designer price tag. Dossier and ALT are both sites with scents inspired by designer perfumes for a fraction of the price. Most Dossier scents are $29 or even less during sales.1 Scents from ALT typically start at $29 or $39.2 Target’s Finery collection also features affordable alternatives for a number of designer brands like Le Labo and Tom Ford. Another option is Oil Perfumery, which is a great place to purchase highly concentrated scents inspired by designer fragrances. Always check the concentration before purchasing any dupes!

Don’t forget the basics Though perfumes and colognes are fun, smelling good doesn’t necessarily require them. Scented hair and body products can be just as effective and often don’t cost more than their unscented counterparts. There are also ways to smell great other than body care. Try washing your clothes with a few drops of essential oils to create a sweet-smelling closet and radiate freshness all day.

Scent is extremely powerful; wearing perfume not only boosts confidence but also lifts your mood. Smelling great, while luxurious by nature, doesn’t have to break the bank.

Embracing a glamorous lifestyle is well within your reach.

1 “Dossier Impressions - Dossier Perfumes,” Dossier. 2023.

2 “ALT Fragrances | Smell Your Best For Less,” ALT Fragrances, 2023.

CULTURE

An Honest Conversation with my Mom About Representation Before Social Media How body image and women’s rights have evolved through time Written by Eliot Hughes, Staff Writer Graphic by Meghan Price, Creative Team

TW: Discussion of varying body types and body image

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had a conversation with my mother about body type representation in the media. My mother grew up in the sixties and seventies. She was raised in Upstate New York, lived most of her adult life in California then finally moved to Wisconsin to raise a family. Despite originally intending to talk about body inclusivity, our conversation evolved to discuss women’s rights and how body image played into the treatment of women at the time.

right clubs, you had to project a certain kind of personality all the time, not just when you’re doing a TikTok. So people were very much more aware of trying to be cool, be with the right people and be in the right places."

What were the body standards growing up?

"I mean, if there were 10,000 more Mary Tyler Moores, that would have been helpful growing up. Carol Burnett was a huge influence on a lot of women – there was a whole generation of women. There was a little narrower generation of women that made girls feel like they could have autonomy.

And that autonomy was stressed very strongly; it was not always body conscious. A lot of it was related to your sense of agency as a human being on planet Earth in terms of having power, in terms of not having men just think that they could stare at your boobs while they were interviewing you for a job. I mean, the whole treatment of women was so different than that, I think this narrow focus on bodies doesn’t quite cover it. I mean, women had to have their husbands cosign for loans. They couldn’t buy cars. They couldn’t get houses."

"There wasn’t as much media, right? It was Twiggy. It was Goldie Hawn. But, I think even more profoundly, if you went out dancing, and if you watched and if you went clubbing in New York, in the 70s or if you went dancing in your hometown, there was a really distinct style that was attached to disco. There were a ton of female singers, but they were mostly Black, so I wasn’t sort of directly comparing myself to them. But the people in clubs, you’re profoundly comparing yourself to them, and they were all these sort of super sparkly, slender, graceful people with a very specific body type. It was like long, leggy, slender, smallish boobs. And this is like the days of Studio 54 and Xenon, and all those other copycat clubs after Studio 54.

At the same time – I think this is far more formative – this was the beginning of time when we were standing outside of a club. There was a guy that was not a bouncer, but a person that was a club owner, picking through the crowd and going ‘You, you, you.’ And all of those who were those leggy blondes or brunettes, not too curvy, very fashionable. It’s the very first time that I can think of in history where people were chosen or rejected to socialize in a setting, and that was very influential in a way that a model never could be."

When you moved to LA, did you find that people in Los Angeles, being near the movie industry and everything, were more interested in how they looked and looking a certain way?

"So I was in college [California State- Long Beach], I was young. I wasn’t in the movie industry. I was among people who wanted to be in the movie industry. It was far hipper than Upstate New York. I don’t think that’s a big surprise to anybody. It was far more body conscious. Because I think people spent a lot more time showing a lot more skin, right?

And people all wanted to be something they weren’t. A lot of people were moving in from other places, and everybody just wanted to be noticed and known and become famous.

But becoming famous then was well before it was possible the way it is now. It was well before there was any kind of social media, so they had to [gain attention] by looking a certain way and being in places. You had to show up at the

So you think better representation of women in general in the media would have been more helpful than specifically body representation?

Have you thought about body standards and representation while raising a daughter? Were you conscious of not passing body images on to me?

"The most stunning thing to me that happened when I was raising you was how many body types were accepted.

When I was pregnant with you, I was sitting at a Culver’s and I saw a table full of girls. They were basketball players in high school basketball, and they all had ponytails, and they were athletic and they were strong. And I’m like, that’s why I moved here. That’s why I moved to Wisconsin because I want her to grow up with that, with a sense of empowerment because she’s strong because she’s talented, because she uses her body in a way that gives her joy, and I had a real moment of clarity. I could not have put that into words before. I just saw this table full of girls. And then when you were on swim teams all over the place, I’m like, Oh, my God. You can have whatever kind of body you want. People are celebrating butts. People are celebrating just being healthy and athletic."

Are there memories you can think of that were positive representations of culture and ethnicity you identified with?

"So I said this. I told the story really recently. I was living in California and had been living in California for a really long time. And there’s always that slight insecurity about being

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Jewish, and I was home sick, and I didn’t have anything to do. I looked at this PBS special, and it was about the birth of American comedy. And it was like just a bunch of people that look like my Aunt Lily. Everybody looked like my family, my mother’s side of the family. And I started to cry. I relaxed for the first time. I felt like all the tension go out of my body because they were warm, and they were funny, and it was a positive representation [of Jewish people and Jewish culture]. It was a positive representation of my people that I never saw all in one room together, and they all looked like my Aunt Lily. They all had the same nose as that part of the family. I was just happy, and they were warm and funny and hilarious and smart. I was 35 years old before [feeling belonging] happened [as a result of representation in the media], and that’s sad. It’s sad, and that moment has stuck

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with me this whole time and I don’t know that my insecurity necessarily went away at that moment. I just became so abruptly aware that if I were among my people, I wouldn’t even notice anything about myself. I think body plays into a lot of things. It’s not always your ass. Sometimes it’s your nose. Sometimes it’s your hair color. Sometimes it’s this but I think it’s culture that plays into people’s identity."

FASHION

A Joyous Night Out Head-turning going-out tops to elevate your look Written by Devin Reiman, Staff Writer

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s the weather starts to change, now is the moment to upgrade your collection of “night on the town” going-out tops. Whether you’re on your way to a girls’ dinner or sorority event, having a trendy and playful top at your disposal ensures you’ll look and feel your best for any occasion.

When it comes to alluring tops, brands like Danielle Guizio are known for their timeless designs, wearable color palettes and flattering necklines.1 These easy-to-style looks will complement any aesthetic you’re aiming for on a night out. The brand does a great job of capturing the essence of subversive sensuality and boldness.2 Guizo draws inspiration from empowering the wearer and celebrating the female form.

The brand commemorates the modern woman and aims to deviate from the tradition, pushing boundaries in all aspects of life.

While minimalist looks are not all glitz, brands like Revolve do a great job of incorporating shimmering embellishments to their looks. Revolve, a sus1 Meguire Hennes, “Ready for a night on the town? These 18 going-out tops will have you partying all night long,” Byrdie.

2 “About Us,” Guizio.

tainable fashion retailer for Millennial and Generation Z consumers, brought back the early 2000s trend of sequins, which has regained popularity on their website. This type of detail can add the excitement your wardrobe needs right now.

Along with the sequins look, other Y2K fashion trends have been resurfacing, from structured vests to corsets and everything in between.3 The “vest trend” offers a multitude of styles, allowing you to dress it up or down while pairing it nicely with skirts, jeans or trousers.4 Years ago, corsets were seen as emblematic of women’s oppression when hidden underneath dresses.5 But today, they are confidently worn out in the open. Celebrities like Bella Hadid and Kourtney Kardashian are currently loving this trend.

Whether you lean towards a minimalist yet sophisticated look or gravitate towards a more daring and unconventional style, whichever path you select to elevate your appearance empowers 3 Samantha Sutton, 2023.

4 Jess Jannenga,“Tht- styling the vest trend in 2023 - elegantly dressed and stylish,” Elegantly Dressed and Stylish, 2023.

5 Liana Satenstein, 2022.

you and fosters self-confidence. Fashion is an incredible tool for expressing your personality and individuality to the world. Having your own style involves embracing and showcasing precisely who you are and what you love.

Feeling confident through fashion requires taking the time to discover your likes and dislikes. The main focus is finding clothing that makes you comfortable and happy. To elevate your confidence, try taking the following three steps. First, invest in clothes that give you a sense of self-worth and that exciting feeling of treating yourself to luxury. Next, let your personality shine through by staying true to who you are, creating outfits that make you feel good. Finally, own your look. Life is too short not to wear what you love and feel good about yourself in.

Photography by Molly Ford, Head of Videography Videography by Cate Tarr, Arts Editor Styling by Molly Ford, Head of Videog raphy and Bri Stevens, Creative Team Modeled by Ivette Pita-Ruiz, Creative Team and Nina Santiago Special thank you to Kennedy Manor

FALL DIGITAL 2023

LIFESTYLE

Glamorize your Sunday Routine!

How to spice up your to-dos to avoid that Sunday funk Written by Maddy Scharrer, Lifestyle Assistant Editor Photography by Isabella Rotfeld, Creative Team Styled by Audrey Perry, Creative Team Modeled by Emma Spaciel, Head of Photography Special thank you to The Aveda Institute

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hh, Sundays – the day designated for rest and relaxation after a hectic week and an even wilder weekend. Or, at least that’s what they say it’s for.

Why is it that Sundays never hold true to their theoretical calm aura? Speaking from my experience as a college student, Sundays rarely hold true to the “relaxing reset” expectation. With procrastinated homework and builtup chores, it’s rare that I find myself relaxed on a Sunday or motivated to enact a weekly reset.

and work in most cases. The feeling of Sunday blues is all about your mindset, and a great way to lessen your blues is to glamorize your reset routine!

After a weekend of fun and before a long week of classes, Sundays often feel like a strange in-between. Consequently, I’ve found myself spending too many Sundays wallowing over the closing of the fun weekend and dreading the work-filled week to come. Feelings like these are commonly known as the “Sunday blues” – a mix of “sadness, hopelessness and dissatisfaction” tied to the day before beginning a new school or work week.1

One thing that always motivates me to work on assignments is to go to a coffee shop! Sitting in a cozy corner of your favorite bustling coffee shop is the perfect place to romanticize your Sunday homework. The vibe of a coffee shop might be just the key to relaxing your mind and making your Sunday homework a more enjoyable experience.

If you chronically experience the Sunday blues, know that all hope is not lost. A family friend explained to me that they don’t experience Sunday blues because they view Sundays as what they should be: a day off! While it may not be feasible to completely clear your Sunday schedule, that doesn’t mean it has to be a bad day. Despite any to-dos you might assign to your Sunday, it is still a day off from classes 1 BetterHelp Editorial Team, “What Is ‘Sunday Depression’?,” BetterHelp, Oct. 30, 2023.

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Spice up your studying

If you’re anything like me, Sundays are filled with homework.

It’s so easy to put down the books on Friday night, bookmarking the studying for Sunday.

While a Sunday grind session might not always be avoidable, there are ways to make it so much better!

While this works for me, I know for many a busy, loud environment might not be the best place to focus. If you struggle to work around conversations and noise, I still recommend hitting up a study spot outside of your living space. Getting out of the house is often a step closer to feeling better. On your way to a library or other quiet study spot, stop at wherever has your favorite little treat to motivate yourself! I find that treating myself to my favorite coffee puts me in a better mood and helps me focus.

Cheer up your chores

For many, Sunday is a day to get weekly chores done. Laundry and tidying up your space from a weekend of fun are often Sunday must-dos. While these activities may not sound appealing initially, the sense of productivity during the task and the satisfaction when it's done make it worthwhile!

When you’re doing your weekly chores, play some peaceful music, open up all the blinds to let the sunshine in and try to think of how great it will feel to have a clean living space and fresh clothes for the week! Getting started is often the hardest part, so try to keep the end goal in mind and think of how refreshed you will be afterward.

Bring on the breaks

A crucial piece to glamorizing your Sunday routine is sprinkling in breaks! Adding fun activities between tasks can help you avoid burnout and motivate you to complete your to-dos.

Between tasks, set aside a chunk of time to reset your mind.

Go for a walk or a drive, chit-chat with your roomies, call your parents; there are no rules for what constitutes a good break. Anything that will allow your mind a minute of rest and bring you some joy is perfect and can help break up your tasks!

Set aside some self-care time

Self-care on Sundays is probably one of the best feelings in the world. After a long day of tasks, having some me-time feels like the greatest reward. It’s especially important to designate time for this on Sunday nights to prepare for the week ahead!

There are countless ways to spend your me-time. While everyone’s perfect self-care night looks different, here are some of my essentials: I love going to the gym or a workout class after a long day of sitting and studying – moving my body always makes me feel better! Taking a bubble bath or a hot shower is also something that helps me wind down, especially following that workout! Lastly, ending the night off with my favorite TV show, a movie with my roomies or reading a good book puts my mind at ease and is just the relaxation I need on a Sunday evening. Sundays might never be the work-free day they’re rumored to be, but glamorizing your routine using these simple tricks above can make a world of difference.

FALL DIGITAL 2023

ARTS

From Grit to Glam Damien Chazelle’s “Babylon” presents Hollywood in its classic, terrifying glory Written by Reese Diethrich, Online Editor Graphic by Ari Tweedy, Creative Team

W

hen critically acclaimed director and creator of your favorite film, “La La Land,” Damien Chazelle, faces scathing reviews of his recent film that resemble it to a dumpster fire, you buy a ticket to go see it. Chazelle’s 2022 film, “Babylon,” incinerated under critics’ flames as they described the film as a “messy, exhaustive tale.”1 Or, as Rolling Stone Magazine wrote, “Babylon” dubs a “Lame Hollywood Orgy of Sex, Drugs and Margot Robbie.”2 Countless reviews reiterate the same idea: “Babylon” pushes the limit to a lackluster finish, attempting to shock audiences with graphic debauchery to no success. Both critics and general viewers alike seem to agree that the premise of “Babylon,” in telling a story of Hollywood with hellish allusions and imagery, fails to create a cohesive thematic thread.

Walking out of what I assumed would be three hours of gruesome pandemonium, I was dumbfounded that audiences and critics did not see the value that I did in “Babylon.” The consensus that “Babylon” presents Hollywood’s darker elements felt evident, and I found the soul of the film lies in Chazelle’s subtle appreciation of Hollywood’s artistry and passionate aura.

Despite its gluttony and hellish nature, Hollywood has consistently produced art that stands the test of time, crafting films that prove classic in their connection to the human experience. “Babylon,” as per the critics’ viewpoint, may appear a lengthy portrayal of overindulgence, yet beneath its surface, it delves into a larger exploration of what constitutes the glamour of Hollywood.

In “Babylon,” Chazelle paints his version of a “Hollywood Underworld”– an underbelly of depravity swarming with debauchery instilled chaos. The title itself, “Babylon,” serves as an extended metaphor. The ancient city of Babylon swarms with infamy, as its biblical connotation describes Babylon as a “symbol of a wicked city, fallen from God.”3 1 Mark Kermode, “Babylon Review – Damien Chazelle’s Messy, Exhausting Tale of Early Hollywood,” The Guardian, Jan. 22, 2023.

2 Austin K. Collins, “‘Babylon’ Is a Lame Hollywood Orgy of Sex, Drugs, and Margot Robbie,” Rolling Stone, Dec. 23, 2022.

3 Taylor Diamond, “Babylon: The Real Meaning behind Damien Chazelle’s Title,” ScreenRant, Dec. 31, 2022.

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The film centers around an assembly of dreamers in the golden age of Hollywood – a born-to-be starlet, an unabating actor, a jazz aficionado and more. “Babylon” trails the decadence and degeneracy of the characters with a distinct focus on Manny, played by Diego Calva, a film-lover who cunningly infiltrates the industry, eventually becoming a film executive. Charting the transition from silent to sound films, the plot traces the evolution of each character.

Blood-curdling reaches a new level when Chazelle incorporates a character named James McKay, played by Tobey Mcguire, a frightening hedonist to whom Manny owes money.

McKay shows Manny a dark cave burdened with the most inhumane acts imaginable. The wicked cave full of Hollywood’s worst alludes to a sinful hell, one representative of the industry.

Throughout the film, Chazelle presents this wickedness, with set design that mimics something of hell, lined in deep reds and shadows. Each scene contains foul language, devilish imagery or a series of characters indulging in their personal vices. “Babylon” does not refrain from crude content, showcasing endless liquor, sex and violence.

While Manny and the rest of the characters grapple with tremendous losses, suffering and trauma in the film, they also find moments of awe for filmmaking. The film transcends time, demonstrating the attention to detail, a strong work ethic and genuine passion required to make films in the golden age of Hollywood.

The film nods to stars of the time and movies that made their mark on film history, such as “Singing in the Rain.”

Innovative camera techniques emerged, acting styles developed and artists of that era, who often worked into the early hours of the morning, are subtly woven into every scene in “Babylon.”

The film’s conclusion tethers all the struggles of Hollywood to one overarching, magnificent outcome. Manny sits in a theater 20 years after his time in Hollywood. Suddenly, the film he’s watching changes to clips of him working throughout the years. The shots of Manny are interrupted by a new montage, featuring quick clips from classic films in Hollywood history.

The montage includes scenes from movies like “Raiders of the Lost Ark” and “The Wizard of Oz,” accompanied by the recurring musical theme throughout “Babylon.” As the clips speed up, synchronized with the music, the screen bursts into drops of color, flicking between red, green and blue.

The colors abruptly stop with the sight of Manny, now tearfully smiling.

Despite the losses and tribulations, Manny weeps tears of joy at his time as an executive. His quote from the beginning of the montage encapsulates it all: “I always wanted to be part of something bigger… Something that lasts, that means something.”4 Manny’s tears reflect his awe at his legacy, his contribution to something that resonates across generations.

The montage enacted the same sense of awe in me. I sat wide-eyed, with my mouth agape, in adoration of the decades worth of classic films that foster connection. From the intense score to the rapid sequence of cuts, all I could picture was the decades worth of love for storytelling infused in every film clip.

The “Babylon” montage reflects my own feeling that film as an art form extends beyond mere entertainment. For me, films are mirrors. I can look into stories from years ago and find remnants of myself. I can peer into the tales of another to navigate my own troubles.

“Babylon’s” ending also answered a long-lasting question of mine: Why do creatives gravitate toward Hollywood despite cautionary tales? The answer has always, and always will, lie in the creation of beautiful, classic art that outlives an individual artist.

Chazelle’s “Babylon” underscored one unequivocal truth – Hollywood is not glamorous in its production, in the haunting shadows of the red-carpet limelight. Yet, the brilliance of Hollywood’s film library outshines the industry’s darker counterpart.

A gritty, hellish mess. A glamorous tribute to the longevity of art. Either can be used to describe both “Babylon” and Hollywood. Ultimately, it’s up to the viewer’s discretion to decide where both the film and the industry fall. I choose to see a little of both in each. Chazelle knows it as well as I do – you can’t have the glam without a little bit of grit.

4 Damien Chazelle, “Babylon,” Paramount Pictures, 2022. 3 hr 9 min.

FALL DIGITAL 2023