Fashion icons for every generation

Fashion Icons FASHION

for every generation

THE FASHION INDUSTRY WOULD NOT BE THE SAME WITHOUT THESE MUSES TO INSPIRE OUR TOP DESIGNERS

By Talia Abbe, Special Events Coordinator Illustrated by Channing Smith, Art Director

In the fashion industry, designers would be nothing without their muses to inspire them and their work. A muse can serve as an influencer for the designer to help encourage the creative process, and can ultimately be the catalyst for their careers.

Here is a list of iconic designer-muse relationships that every person should know about.

Bob Mackie and Cher

Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn

This was one of the most famous relationships in fashion history. The two met on the set of the 1954 film, Sabrina, which turned into a full working relationship for many decades.1 Hepburn inspired Givenchy to create what is now known as the iconic ‘little black dress’ that was worn by Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, naming her one of the most stylish and influential women of the 20th century. This established Givenchy as one of the biggest designers and helped turn Hepburn into a worldwide style icon.2

1 “THE MUSES BEHIND 6 OF THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS FASHION DESIGNERS”. Highsnobiety, 2015. 2 “15 OF THE MOST ICONIC DESIGNER/MUSE RELATIONSHIPS IN FASHION HISTORY.” Harper’s Bazaar, May. 18, 2020.

Yves Saint Laurent and Betty Catroux

Over the years, Yves Saint Laurent used multiple women to fill the role as his muse, but the one that stood out the most was Betty Catroux, the formal Chanel model. The two met at the Régine’s nightclub in Paris during the early stages of Laurent’s career.1 Like many of his muses, Catroux retained a rebellious edge with an androgynous look, inspiring many of Laurent’s designs, including the pantsuit. Women wearing a suit was always considered masculine, but Laurent changed that mindset. This 35 year relationship no doubt paved the way for Laurent’s career and eventually led to the beginning of contemporary fashion.2 Unlike any of the other designers, costume designer Bob Mackie created garments for some of the most inspiring women such as Diana Ross and Marilyn Monroe. Some of his most famous work featured a sheer dress for Cher, which she wore to the Met Gala in 1974, and the sequin dress she wore to receive her Grammy in 1988.1 The 1974 dress was considered the “Naked Dress” because it was a beaded sheer gown with white feathered sleeves and a white feathered skirt with only a single crystal hand sewn to the heart over her breasts. The entire dress was made of thousands of crystals and it made a huge statement. Mackie created this dress because he loved the idea of creating a dress that perfectly sculpted the women’s body and wanted to create a nude illusion. Cher and Mackie most definitely set the trend today for showing skin on the red carpet.2 In 1988, Cher became known for her bold fashion sense. Mackie had made her a sheer black dress with thin straps, and a bra style neckline, exposing Cher’s entire stomach and legs.3 Throughout his career, Mackie also designed hundreds of costumes for The Sonny and Cher Show.

1 Ibid. 2“Bow Down, Kim and Kendall-- Bob Mackie explains why Cher is the Reigning Queen of the Naked Dress.” Vogue. May 23, 2017 3 “Cher 1988 Oscar Dress Photo” HuffPost. April 11, 2013.

Gianni Versace and Donatella Versace

Jean Paul Gautier is most famously known for creating one of Madonna’s stage outfits from her Blonde Ambition Tour in 1990. This piece helped launch his career and ultimately solidified his relationship with the artist.1 Together, Gaultier and Madonna attended the 2018 Met Gala in one of his designs wearing a full church goth dress that was accessorized with a crucifix dotted crown, a net veil, layered cross necklaces and a handful of black roses. This was a statement that completely went with

1 Ibid.

Growing up as siblings, Donatella Versace had a major influence on her older brother Gianni Versace.1 They were extremely close and she always looked up to him, to this day she still expresses how hard it was when her brother was murdered. Throughout his career, though he dressed famous models such as Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford, none of them compared to his most prized muse, Donatella. Prior to taking over the Versace company after her brother’s murder, Donatella often wore Gianni’s most famous pieces on the red carpet.

1 Ibid. Madonna’s usual fashion legacy.2 She also made an appearance as one of his models in the spring/summer ‘95 collection, where he said his final farewells to the fashion industry. In this collection he exposed many of the issues we are having today; such as, diversity, gender fluidity, recycling and sustainability. He would recycle his materials, put men in skirts and used models of all sizes, genders and ethnicities.3

2 “Madonna Goes Full Church Goth in Jean Paul Gaultier at the Met Gala.” Vogue. May 8, 2018. 3“Jean Paul Gaultier” Vogue. January 23, 2020.

Jeremy Scott and Devon Aoki

Moschino’s creative director, Jeremy Scott, refers to his long lasting friend, Devon Aoki, as his “forever muse”. She started her career with Scott when she was 13, and after a decade of not doing shows, she made a reappearance to close Moschino’s Resort ‘17 runway show in 2016. Scott saw a picture of Aoki when she was 13 in a shoot and was instantly mesmerized.1 Their most well known collaboration was the 2007 “Ice Cream Issue” i-D cover. In the Moschino Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear collection, Aoki wore an overstitched white swingy jacket with black embroidery, a lace rope belt through the sailor suit and crochet sleeves on a coat.2

1 Ibid. 2 “Moschino Spring 2007 Ready- to- Wear.” Vogue. September 26, 2006.

Pierpaolo Piccioli and Adut Akech

Valentino’s Creative Director, Pierpaolo Piccioli has a muse unlike any other. Considered to be a supermodel in the making, Adut Akech caught Piccioli’s eye, inspiring much of his work. Akech, a former refugee, escaped war-torn South Sudan and later as a child, moved to Australia before becoming a model. She has said that her work with Valentino has made her feel at home.1 He found a love for how Akech captures a powerful and timely notion. She has helped him turn Valentino into a more diverse and inclusive environment, by hiring black models to walk the runway and by focusing his 2019 haute couture presentation on diversity. 2

1 Ibid. 2 “How Valentino Embraced Diversity.” Business of Diversity. October 1, 2019.

Riccardo Tisci and Kim Kardashian

Kim Kardashian West has Riccardo Tisci to thank for her entrance into the fashion industry. Tisci is the former creative director of Givenchy and the current creative director of Burberry. The two had an ultimate connection the first time they met and she has been his muse ever since, they met through Kanye who is great friends with Tisci.1 Kardashian West has been seen in many of his designs, including her 2014 wedding gown. Kardashian West was constantly photographed in his clothing throughout 2012, she was seen in fold-over boots, ruffled cocktail dresses, and tropical floral prints. Tisci played an iconic role in Kardashian West’s high-fashion coming out party at the Met Gala in 2013 by bringing her with him.2 ■