MODA Magazine Summer 2015 by MODA

The University of Chicago // Summer 2015

MODA

LETTER FROM THE EDITORS

MODA Magazine 2014-2015 CO-EDITORS-IN-CHIEF

EXPLORATION

When Spring weather finally takes hold in Chicago, the city suddenly feels filled with limitless possibilities. After months of shirking the cold in our dorms and apartments, we’re seized by the urge to linger outside, do something we always wanted to do, and try something completely new in the dynamic city that surrounds us. This issue of MODA embraces the spirit of exploration in many ways; staff writers visit six neighborhoods with rich cultural roots, and the team travelled out to the Indiana Dunes for the “Bohemian Rhapsody” photo shoot. Writers journey beyond Chicago in the “New Fashion Capitals” feature, and our “Urban Explorers” interviews spotlight individuals with mega social media followings through trekking around the world with a camera. But sometimes exploration can take form in a less literal sense; Beauty Editor Lucie Fama brings us back to the childhood joy of candy in her “Candyland,” shoot, and our stylists ventured into new, unisex aesthetics in the “Beyond Boundaries” spread. This is also Alexandra’s last issue as Editor-in-Chief of MODA, and she’s so grateful to the magazine for helping her explore her own creativity these past two years, but she can’t wait to see where the new team’s vision leads them in the years to come.

Alexandra McInnis and Rachel Scheinfeld

MODA Magazine Co-Editors-in-Chief

MODA Summer 2015

Alexandra McInnis & Rachel Scheinfeld (Abroad)

EDITORIAL BOARD:

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Ivy Zhang PHOTO EDITOR Albert Nam MANAGING & VISUAL DESIGN EDITOR Maya Hansen STYLING EDITORS Frances Chen & Ogonna Obiajunwa FEATURES EDITORS Carmin Chappell & Stacey Chiu COPY EDITOR Maya Rodriguez BEAUTY EDITOR Lucie Fama FINANCE DIRECTOR & PR MANAGER Amutha Muthukumar STAFF ENGAGEMENT DIRECTOR Sana Sohail

STAFF:

WRITERS & CONTRIBUTERS: Marta Bakula, Chaillé Biddle, Alexa Bieler, Justin Donnelly, Kavya Garikipati, Shayla Harris, Sucheta Kinger, Mark Kumleben, Spencer Moy, Krishna Mukkavilli, Mary Pierce, Andrew Nicotra Reilly, Ellen Swicord STYLISTS: Cynthia Mao, Alexis Matthews, Yady Rivero, Rohit Satishchandra, Wonna Wen PHOTOGRAPHERS: Diane Lee, Albert Nam, Gina Yu MODELS: Shweta Desiraju, Devon Eastlack, Tobi Gbile, Kennedy Green, Chloe Hadavas, Komal Kawatra, Josh Kramer, Damien Phillips, Sophie Pizeuil, Natalie Richardson, Octavia Shaw, Basak Sunar, Miranda Wei

We would like to give a special thanks to Notre, Steven Alan, and Pitaya for generously letting us use their clothing.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

04 06 09 10 12

6 NEIGHRBORHOODS:

Explore the world without ever leaving Chicago, and let MODA staff writers be your travel experts.

NEW FASHION CAPITALS:

Move over, New York and Paris – all eyes are on the rising fashion scenes in Berlin, Shanghai, and Moscow.

HISTORY OF THE MERCH MART:

Sucheta Kinger breaks down the impact of the Merchandise Mart on trade and commerce throughout Chicago’s history.

GENDERLESS FASHION:

The rise and popularity of unisex fashion and what it could mean for fashion today and for the future.

A COMMON THREAD:

Features Editor Carmin Chappell talks to Threadless CEO Jake Nickell to take us through their headquarters in downtown Chicago, where fashion meets entrepeneurship.

14 16 18 24 36

INTO MIND:

An interview with Anuschka Rees, the blogger who emphasizes the perks of minimalist style.

URBAN EXPLORERS:

Instagram photographers like Danny Mota and Jena Gambaccini tell staff writer Chaillé Biddle how they are displaying urban life in a new kind of light.

CANDYLAND:

Remember that time in our lives when we couldn’t keep away from candy? These summer makeup looks are equally covetable as Beauty Editor Lucie Fama draws on nostalgia for sweet inspiration.

BEYOND BOUNDARIES:

The versatility of unisex fashion meets minimalist chic. Embrace a whole new range of sartorial possibilities.

BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY:

MODA takes to the Indiana Dunes to showcase flowing, ‘70s inspired looks.

Photos from left to right: Beyond Boundaries by Diane Lee, Threadless headquarters by Albert Nam, into-mind.com.

MODA Summer 2015

MODAexplores

NEIGHBORHOODS WITH INTERNATIONAL FLAIR

CHINATOWN PILSEN

Chinatown is a diverse neighborhood boasting a wide array of restaurants, shops, and entertainment venues. Lao Sze Chuan and Evergreen Restaurant are two Chinatown staples offering top-notch Chinese cuisine. For those craving bubble tea, the Joy Yee Smoothie Station is a must-try with almost 50 different flavors. After eating, relax at Pop Korean Television and Sakura Karaoke Lounge, popular Karaoke destinations. The neighborhood also hosts a Chinese New Year Festival and annual Dragon Boat Races in the summer. As one of the oldest international neighborhoods in Chicago, Chinatown is home to both delicious restaurants and a vibrant history. By Ellen Swicord.

MODA Summer 2015

Just three miles from the Chicago Loop lies Pilsen, Chicago’s vibrant Latino community. Originally populated by people of Eastern European descent, the location became a Hispanic hub after Latinos moved to the area in the 1950’s. Today, the neighborhood boasts a distinctive look due to mosaics and graffiti art on walls and buildings and promotes Mexican heritage with restaurants, theater, and art. Nuevo Leon, always packed to the brim on Friday nights, is one of Pilsen’s many restaurants that offer authentic Mexican food. On the second Friday of every month, Pilsen’s art galleries open their doors to the public for a night of food, and art appreciation. Pilsen’s rich cultural atmosphere make it one of the city’s most interesting places to explore. By Krishna Mukkavilli.

Chinatown foods. Photo courtesy of Chicago Reader.

HUMBOLDT PARK

Today, Humboldt Park is a mix of old and new: it maintains its traditional character as Chicago’s Little Puerto Rico while a recent influx of new residents has brought a modern revival to the neighborhood. Sit in a café, such as Café Colao at Division and Washtenaw and listen to Spanish and English spoken among both strangers and locals. Cantinas (a type of bar) punctuate Division and the cross streets of the neighborhood, with menus ranging from traditional Puerto Rican to modern experimental cuisine. Each September, Humboldt Park also hosts Riot Fest, a ten-year old rock, punk rock, and alternative music festival that has been held in the neighborhood since 2012. By Justin Donnelly.

GREEKTOWN

The first Greeks to immigrate to Chicago arrived in the 1840’s and many made their living as food peddlers. As the neighborhood flourished, more and more Greeks called Chicago home. Today, Greektown is still renowned for its cuisine, praised by Chicago residents and tourists alike. This year’s Taste of Greece festival, culturally enriching and incredibly filling, will be held August 22-23rd. Can’t make it to the festival? Greek Islands is open seven days a week to satisfy a gyro craving. By Shayla Harris.

ANDERSONVILLE

Andersonville, north of the Loop, was once home to a Swedish immigrant majority following the Chicago Fire of 1871. As the neighborhood has diversified throughout the years, Andersonville has developed a vibrant culture, boasting a series of fun neighborhood events. The May Andersonville Wine Walk, a June “Midsommarfest” block party, and a blowout July Sidewalk Sale are annual events not to be missed. Though growing Middle Eastern and LGBTQ populations excite the area, Andersonville’s Swedish roots command a presence with the Swedish American Museum, the Swedish Bakery, and the historic Svea restaurant (order their famous Swedish Pancakes) among other Swedish businesses. Andersonville is also home to a string of unique, independent shops. Make sure to check out Scout, Salvage One, and Brownstone Antiques and Collectibles for an afternoon or evening of antiquing. By Spencer Moy.

DEVON

Devon Avenue is home to people from all walks of life, but one of the most prominent parts of Devon is the stretch east of California Avenue, often referred to as “Little India.” A large inflow of South Asian immigrants arrived in the area during the 1960’s, and it is now home to America’s third largest Indian population. Dozens of electic Indian and Pakistani shops, restaurants, and grocers line this stretch of Devon. Dining options such as Viceroy of India, Tiffin, and the Tahoora Sweets Bakery offer delicious and inexpensive Indian staple foods like butter chicken. By Marta Bakula. MODA Summer 2015

Photos from left to right: rumageistberlin, stylestalker, static, static.

MODAexplores

NEW FASHION CAPITALS BERLIN By Andrew Nicotra Reilly

hat makes Berlin special is that it’s not affected by the pretension of New York or Paris. Berlin does not shy away from innovation, for better or worse (but usually better). Berliners would rather look eccentric than boring. These distinguishing qualities permeate throughout the city’s entire fashion scene. Colors, patterns, and textures abound on the runway – the Merdeces-Benz Fashion Week is held twice each year - and the streets - Berlin is home to ten fashion schools. Fashion in Berlin is often found in the most unlikely places. The multitude of flea markets in the city, like the Mauerpark, Arkonaplatz and the Straße des 17 Juni allows new designers’ work to quickly go from concept to consumer. These markets provide

MODA Summer 2015

opportunities for the young designers to showcase their work locally. A night out at CATWALK bar, which caters to the city’s fashion elite, features more than just the hottest music. Doubling as a showroom and bar, all of CATWALK’s staff wears clothing by German designer Michael Michalsky. The mentality of Berliners can be understood in part by the German aesthetic tradition of the 20th century. While many French aestheticians focused on introspection, Germans were more concerned with the aesthetic values portrayed outward. In this way, much of the Berlin fashion scene is about the impression given off by clothing; the often reckless abandon that the Berlin creative class seems to employ is what sets it apart from the other fashion capitals.

he Treaty of Nanking may seem an unlikely beginning to Shanghai’s influence in the world of fashion. Yet the British’s infiltration into the city, together with the influx of migrant workers from the North, made Shanghai not only the most important entry point into China but primed it for international commerce. By the 1920s and ‘30s Shanghai was known as “The Paris of the East, the New York of the West.” There are many elements that convert a metropolis into a fashion capital: innovative designers, avant-garde showrooms, runways and fashion schools. But there is nothing more important to a growing fashion capital than the consumer. Without the consumer, fashion cannot exist. This basic economic principle is nowhere more present than in Shanghai. With a burgeoning middle class, the Shanghai people boast increasing amounts of disposable income, and a substantial amount is going towards apparel. Citizens of Shanghai spent an average of 1000 US dollars on their last clothing purchase, and 91% plan to make a similarly priced purchase in the next six months according to research firm Global Language Monitor. Comparatively, New Yorkers spent an average of 500 US

SHANGHAI By Alexa Bieler

dollars on their last apparel purchase, and only 71% say they would make a similar purchase in the next six months. The city’s collective fashion consciousness can especially be seen in the younger generation that is willing to step outside the conventional and experiment with fashion as seen by Shanghai’s street style, a rule-free yet ever chic landscape of bright patterns, interesting textures, and an attitude that owns the clothes. Fueled by the plethora of consumers, over 50 designers have set up shop in Shanghai, including many of China’s top designers such as Uma Wang, Zhang Da, and Qiu Hao. Adding to this pool of talent is a constant influx of youthful exuberance and creativity coming from such design schools and media giants as Parsons School of Design (which has a school in the city) and Condé Nast (which is opening a fashion education center in the fall). Shanghai’s fashion rise is not limited to the city’s geographical limits, however; the 6th largest internet company in the world is the Chinese Alibaba, providing a virtual international gateway to Shanghai’s fashion industry. All things considered, it should not come as a surprise that this ancient, provincial city has transformed into a mecca of fashion.

MODA Summer 2015

MODAexplores

MOSCOW By Kavya Garikipati

MODA Summer 2015

KM20 also houses Glamcom, a resale charity project that boasts donations from prominent Russian fashionistas, including supermodel Natalia Vodianova. Moscow’s fashion e-commerce space is also expanding; in 2014 the interest in local online retailers such as Wildberries and Lamoda increased by over 120 percent, according to a report by Jones Lang LaSalle. Also a player in the high fashion sphere, Moscow has hosted the bi-annual Russian Fashion Week for the past 29 seasons. Yasya Minochkina, J. Kim, and Outlaw Moscow were among the many labels that presented this year, and their pieces drew from images of traditional Russian literature and culture. Realizing the benefit that a booming fashion business has on Russia’s economy, various support systems are being created to sustain the growing industry. In 2014, the Russian Fashion Council was launched to support local designers. In the past, trade restrictions and the small scale of Russian design operations have hindered the sale of Russian wares in the West. Russia’s Ministry of Trade has been working to make international export easier; if its efforts are successful, we may very well see Russian designs in American stores soon. Overall, Moscow is continuing to strengthen its position and leave a mark on the international fashion scene.

Photo courtesy of W Magazine.

oscow is known for its divisive politics and architecture over its fashion, but the city still has much to offer in the sartorial realm. Citizens of the Russian capital are putting their most fashionable foot forward and embracing new trends in their own unique way, while the spaces of traditional retail, e-commerce, and high fashion have seen drastic developments and growth in recent times. Russia’s large income gaps and fluctuations typical of an emerging economy mean that there are markets for both niche designer and accessible street style pieces. The retail space in Moscow has long been dominated by the grand department stores GUM and TsUM, now infamous for their luxurious offerings and hordes of tourist contingents. Today, a host of new boutiques present customers with an unconventional and quirky selection that draws from classical Russian, European, and Asian influences. Although typically small in size, these boutiques are hugely creative in the way they present both the space and their products. Mood Swings Apartment Store is a four-room fashion apartment that arranges its products by “mood” rather than brand. Kuznetsky Most 20 (KM20) is another boutique with a cult following, known for its carefully cultivated inventory and active role in the creative community.

MODAfeatures

Style for Sale Photos from left to right: Brown Line outside Merchandise Mark,Wikipedia. Motorola headquarters inside Merchandise Mart, interiordesign.net.

A history of the Merchandise Mart by MODA Staff Writer Sucheta Kinger

he city of Chicago emanates culture on every corner. Whether it is in the Chicago-style popcorn that locals and tourists rave about, the roaring support for the Cubs at Wrigley Field during baseball season, or the popular exhibits at the Art Institute, Chicago’s history is everywhere. One thing that has maintained a strong force in this city’s culture and history is the Merchandise Mart. The Merchandise Mart was initially developed as a marketplace for retailers to come together in a centralized location to buy and sell goods. It was the largest building in the world when it opened in 1930 and even had its own zip code. In the heart of the Great Depression, the Mart failed to boost the economy as it was originally intended and was ultimately converted into an office building. Joseph Kennedy later bought back the Mart after World War II and transformed it back into a trading mecca, eventually making it the monopoly producer of trade shows in the United States in the 1950s and the world’s biggest wholesale design center today. The Merchandise Mart, with its beaming entrance on the banks of the Chicago River, is an emblem of Chicago’s culture, fashion, and art. The Mart caters specifically to traders and manufacturers, but also is constantly attracting locals and tourists alike with ongoing events and fairs. Sanjana, a col-

lege student from the UK, strolls through the shops on her first visit to Chicago. “It’s incredible how everything is so perfectly positioned,” she says. “You look at people awestruck about the all the incredible merchandise on display, and sometimes even more shell-shocked when they check the price tag!” At the top of the Mart one can get a glimpse into a unique side of the fashion industry - if you have permission, that is. While there are a variety of stores that the general public can stroll through, the upper floors are restricted to trade only. However, changing times have impacted the Mart’s role in the fashion industry. A manager at one of the stores inside says, “It’s not as busy, I don’t know if that’s because of the internet or that consumers trust designers more with just their photographs.” A place that once entertained crowds of 40,000 people per day has become quieter over the years. Nonetheless, while technological innovation may have led to a decline in the Mart’s popularity with the fashion and design crowd, it is slowly becoming a hub for Chicago’s tech scene. Startup incubator 1871, smartphone manufacturer Motorola Mobility, and business review site Yelp all have offices in the building. Regardless of the future of the Merchandise Mart, this centralized trade base, architectural behemoth, and historical landmark will remain in the city’s heart forever. MODA Summer 2015

MODAthinks

GENDERLESS FA S H I O N GOING BEYOND AND STRIPPING AWAY Article by Mark Kumleben

Rad Hourani. Photo: i.mdel.net. Check out our Beyond Boundaries photo shoot on page 24 for more unisex fashion inspiration.

MODA Summer 2015

enderless fashion has hit hard recently. TANK magazine dedicated an issue to unisex fashion last year, and this season the British retailer Selfridges has unveiled a shopping space titled “AGENDER,” launching five unisex collections and featuring pieces by big-name labels like Ann Demeulemeester and Yohji Yamamoto. Feeling right at home at AGENDER is Rad Hourani, who designs exclusively unisex clothes. In 2013, Mr. Hourani became the first unisex designer to be chosen as a guest member by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, gatekeepers of fashion’s most sought-after appellation contrôlée. As a core tenet of radical, thought-provoking collections, his unisex focus breaks through boundaries of industry convention. The current trend of unisex fashion is far from monolithic; rather, it’s a confluence of historical trends meeting at a time when non-binary gender expression has gained mainstream attention. Three quite separate currents in modern fashion have pushed unisex garments to the forefront – a revival of interest in late-20th-century gender-bending maximalism, the flowering of heritage workwear, and the continuing futurist drive for reduction. The first style has found perhaps its clearest popular expression in the resurgence of David Bowie-mania, beginning in 2013 with the V&A’s David Bowie Is exhibition and Walter van Beirendonck’s Bowie-inspired FW13/14 collection, Shut Your Eyes to See. Van Beirendonck has always been the embodiment of this outlook – notably, his SS2000 collection, Gender?, in which he claimed “[w]hether clothes are for men and women is all in the head - and none of these are 100 percent.” As the head of the fashion department at Antwerp’s legendary Royal Academy, van Beirendonck’s largerthan-life outlook has influenced young designers of all stripes. In our ordinary lives, though, this sort of maximalism is more often found in thrift shops, where anybody can find a Macklemore-esque statement piece regardless of its original gender coding. For a movement often caricatured as backwards-looking, macho posturing, the modern heritage scene has found itself with a dynamic unisex component. STORY mfg, a British startup combining original early- and mid-century patterns with artisanal, hand-produced denim, creates entirely unisex products as “tomboy style for men and women.” Bobbin, half of the entrepreneurial couple behind the label, claims, “Most women (and lots of men) are put off by oversized shapes. It takes a level of confidence and style to feel like you can pull something like that off.” STORY mfg’s controversial cuts appeal to denim aficionados of both genders – if they dare. Really, though, this shouldn’t be surprising. Heritage fashion today is by design an

appropriation of clothes for another era’s needs and tastes, and appropriations are never quite the same as the original. If a heritage garment is separated from the context that gave its features their original utility, if it’s separated from its class and regional coding, then surely it’s also separated from its designation as ‘masculine’. It may be that heritage fashion often involves an attempt to return to traditional masculinity, or a simulacrum thereof, but there’s nothing in the garments themselves that makes them exclusive to male wearers. Looking in the opposite direction, futuristic artists and designers have often envisaged a world without gendered clothing – a vision as evident in forward-looking fashion as in sci-fi costume design. Peir Wu, whose pared-down, technically experimental menswear evokes a dream of androgynous utopia, has branched out from her original offerings to firmly unisex clothes. Her clean, subtle pieces strip gendered details away in their play with traditional coding. Where, they ask, would gender find a place in world of sleek, dressed-down innovation to come? Ms. Wu’s designs offer the promise of a futurist uniform (without the homogenizing, militaristic connotations futurism can carry), looking beyond gender without contorting to avoid it. It remains to be seen, though, if futurist designs will be the design of the future. Many foresee a turn away from minimal designs, and gender signifiers would be obvious inclusions on more detailed garments. Ms. Wu’s inimitable vision isn’t going away, but predictions of the future often stay predictions. Where, one wonders, will genderless fashion go next? Most likely, it will take some time for retailers to get behind the trend enough to do away with the gender categories that define most online shopping experiences, however, brick-and-mortar shops can easily arrange a unisex section in response to consumer demand. Whether or not unisex fashion comes into the mainstream may depend on fast fashion corporations – high fashion boutiques have already had long experience selling unisex clothes. Additionally, it’s far more likely that unisex garments will continue to be marketed mostly towards women. Public perception of unisex apparel is more favorable to women trying out masculinity than men looking to embrace a more feminine aesthetic, and there is a general outlook in fashion that unisex cuts (as we currently know them) look better on a female build. Furthermore, without a strong vision behind it, there’s really not much of an advantage to making unisex garments when a manufacturer can simply adjust the cut for male and female versions of the same design. As such, with society’s preference for the ultra-tailored and slim-fit, the fate of unisex clothing in the mainstream may be uncertain. MODA Summer 2015

MODAfeatures

a common thread

features editor carmin chappell talks to threadless ceo jake nickell about his west loop-based fashion start-up that moves the innovation needle

artorial enthusiasts and emerging artists alike can be found on Threadless, the online t-shirt startup turned fashion empire that has made a name for itself by crowdsourcing all of its designs. Fifteen years since its inception, the online community is still booming; users have submitted 348,819 designs so far, and 6,452 of those have been printed and sold on t-shirts, hoodies, phone cases, bags, and canvases. New designs are being chosen for print every week based on user votes. The company is headquartered in Chicago’s West Loop, a deliberate choice by founder and CEO Jake Nickell who raves, “There is so much work that gets done [in Chicago]. People work hard, get their hands dirty, and are humble about it.” Along with its core business, Threadless is continuously innovating its offerings - from building creative partnerships and releasing exclusive collections with entities such as the Art Institute of Chicago and Parsons School of Design to a new feature called Artist Shops, which provides users with an Etsy-style, customizable e-commerce site exclusively for their designs – all for free. “We have real relationships with our artists and we’re doing this for them, to help them share and monetize their work online.” says Nickell. “We run our business almost like a cause. If this was all about hawking t-shirts all day, I wouldn’t be interested.” This artists-first mentality is prevalent throughout the company. The first sentence on the website’s about page reads, “You are Threadless. You make the ideas, you pick what we sell, you’re why we exist.” In an era of rampant online piracy, Threadless also recognizes the monetary value of intellectual property: artists receive 20% of all profits generated from their designs.

MODA Summer 2015

The fashion and art markets have traditionally been defined by their exclusivity and high barriers to entry; on Threadless, however, artists can submit any design they want, and the consumer is the gatekeeper, rather than a gallery curator or fashion buyer. While this populist model might make an haute couture devotee cringe, Nickell sees an immense benefit in crowdsourcing. “We know what our customers want before we even make it…Collaborating with hundreds of thousands of artists all around the world allows us to ensure we have the best content with the most variety that’s going to appeal to people.” Threadless’ enduring success has not gone unnoticed. Many new retail companies have adopted a similar business model: footwear startup BucketFeet was called a “Threadless for shoes” by the online publication Fashionista, and Crain’s Chicago Business dubbed t-shirt manufacturer Ript Apparel “the new Threadless.” How does Nickell help his company stay relevant in an increasingly crowded space? “We strive to be the place that is the best for the artists, where they make the most money and get the most exposure,” he says. “We believe in the people that create things and want to help them tell their stories.” Nickell’s advice to budding entrepreneurs is to simply do what they love, saying, “it’s great to have a side project to keep you inspired and motivated, but if your goal is to earn money from it, you may be disappointed.” For all of Threadless’ accomplishments as a company, it’s still fueled by genuine passion. “I started Threadless as a side project for fun,” says Nickell, who eventually dropped out of the Illinois Institute of Art to run the company. “I think the biggest challenge was realizing that Threadless could be my full-time job.”

MODAfeatures

Photos of Threadless headquarters by Albert Nam.

MODA Summer 2015

MODAfeatures

LESS IS MORE by Carmin Chappell

Blogger Anuschka Rees of INTO MIND talks to Features Editor Carmin Chappell about minimalist fashion and how you can incoroprate it into your life.

‘

ess is more’ is not a principle typically applied to fashion. However, through her blog INTO MIND, packed with outfit inspiration and stepby-step guides to perfecting your personal style (examples include ‘Developing a Colour Palette for your Wardrobe’ and ‘Wardrobe Essentials: How to build a solid foundation of basics’), Anuschka Rees has continuously proven the value of a minimalist wardrobe. Features Editor Carmin Chappell spoke with Rees to find out how we can all simplify our lifestyles. MODA: Give some background on your life, your interest in fashion, and what motivated you to create Into Mind. AR: I started INTO MIND while I was doing my master’s degree in Social Psychology at the London School of Economics, just as a creative outlet and to get a break from crunching numbers and statistics all day.

MODA Summer 2015

Originally, INTO MIND was your typical lifestyle blog with a mix of outfit photos, DIY and Pinterest-style inspiration posts, but eventually I decided to narrow my focus a little bit and write about what I personally was most interested in at the time, and that was how to cultivate a strong personal style and build a great, timeless wardrobe. I had always been really into fashion, but sometime during my early twenties my approach did a complete 180, and I went from bargain-hunting student with way too many clothes to someone who would rather buy that one perfect piece instead of ten so-so ones. Nowadays, I own a pretty tiny wardrobe, but it only contains stuff I actually like and wear all the time. MODA: How would you describe the driving philosophy of Into Mind? AR: Overall, INTO MIND is all about using the key idea

of minimalism and applying it to different areas of your life, whether that is your wardrobe, your daily routine or living space. Many people have this misconception that being a minimalist means living very frugally, restricting yourself and getting rid of all material possessions. But really, the goal of minimalism isn’t to own as little as possible and reduce as much as possible, but just to reduce the bad stuff. The stuff that isn’t adding value to your life, including clutter, time commitments or toxic relationships, to make room for things that do add value. Within the context of fashion, using a minimalist approach could mean for example that instead of stuffing your closet with impulse buys, low-quality bargains and things you only half-like, you really take the time to figure out what kinds of pieces would work best for your style and life, regardless of what fashion magazines prescribe or what’s trendy right now. MODA: Many people think of fashion as a vapid hobby. Why is being deliberate and mindful about your personal style important to you? AR: To me, being into fashion is no different than being into interior design or photography or playing music. It’s a way to be creative and express yourself. That’s also why I’m not a big fan of 'fashion rules’ like how to dress for your body shape. All of those things feed into the general idea that fashion is above all about making yourself look more presentable, attractive and closer to what society is currently considering to be the ideal. Magazines and blogs are full of these types of rules, but I always try to encourage my readers to do their best to ignore them and instead practice listening to their own creative impulses. Play around with colours and textures, find out what you personally like, and just have fun with it! MODA: What are some steps our readers can take to build a minimalist wardrobe? AR: The best thing you can do if you want to build a great, minimalist wardrobe is to really spend a lot of time defining your personal style. You need to know what overall look you are going for, to be able to look at your wardrobe as a whole rather than a collection of stand-alone pieces, and figure out what’s missing, both from a functional and an aesthetic perspective. As a first step I always recommend you take a closer look at what’s currently in your wardrobe. What separates the pieces you love and wear all the time from

those that have been sitting at the back of your closet for months? Is it the colour, fabric, pattern, cut, fit, or other specific details? Make a long list of all of the qualities that you love versus those you hate. Next, to expand that list, collect tons of inspiration from personal style blogs, lookbooks, Pinterest, and just save every image that speaks to you in some way in regard to your style in a folder or on a Pinterest board. Your goal here is to really get a feeling for what types of clothes you are naturally drawn to. Once you have a good stack of images, dissect them into specific qualities, like colours, materials and so on, that you can add to your list and use as criteria the next time you’re out shopping. MODA: Can you explain the concepts of 'proportions' and 'capsule wardrobe' mentioned in your blog? What are your favorite proportions for the warmer weather? AR: Proportions are basically outfit formulas, like ‘knee-length skirt + tank top + lightweight jacket + flats’ that you can use to structure your wardrobe and make sure it’s versatile and mixable. The idea is that you choose a few different proportions that all suit your style and work with your lifestyle, and then curate a couple of different pieces for each ‘ingredient’ of those proportions to mix and match. So for example, my favourite proportion for spring and summer weather is 'shorts + camisole + loafers + crossbody bag’. For each of these item categories I own at least three different versions (more for camisoles) and, because all of them fit into my colour palette and align well with my style, I can pretty much just blindly grab something from my wardrobe and go. The concept of capsule wardrobes is similar to that of proportions in that it helps you add structure to your closet. They usually consist of a set of around 20 to 30 mixable pieces, that can either function as a stand-alone wardrobe (for example for travelling) or as a core of essentials that you pair with accent pieces and seasonal clothes. MODA: Where do you get your style inspiration? AR: Whenever I see something I like online, whether that’s a specific colour combination, a silhouette or an interesting play with textures, I will save it in a folder on my hard drive. But apart from that, I also get a lot of inspiration just from watching people. I live in Berlin, which has a big art scene and lots of creative people with great personal styles live here, so it never gets boring.

“The goal of minimalism isn’t to own as little as possible and reduce as much as possible, but just to reduce the bad stuff – the stuff that isn’t adding value to your life.”

Photos: into-mind.com

MODA Summer 2015

MODAfeatures

Urban Explorers

Top row: instagram.com/dannymota. Middle row: instagram.com/chicityfashion. Bottom row: instagram.com/humzadeas. Template: cdn.slashgear.com. Opposite page: refinery29.com

MODA Summer 2015

Staff Writer Chaillé Biddle interviews photographers that bring the subtleties of urban landscapes to the foreground

eauty? “Subjective.” Questions? “Question everything.” Fears? “Not working hard enough.” Light? “Light is everything to me.” The above responses to MODA’s questions are from Danny Mota, a 30-year-old photographer with more than 52,000 followers on Instagram (@dannymota). Mota is one of a growing number of Instagram users who are using the platform to show Chicago from the perspective of an “urban explorer,” preferring to capture empty buildings and subway lines to the Bean and Magnificent Mile. As far as major cities go, Chicago is still relatively new to Instagram, and as a result, there is a lot that remains unexplored. Mota’s approach to exploration is equally limitless: “You don’t need a roof; you have a giant city, go explore,” he says. This particular brand of Instagram user shares spaces and places more than people, capturing the subtle harmonies of the city. Mota tries to start his day before most in order to “see the city rising.” Rather than looking for portraits to shoot, Mota finds patterns, light, and perspectives that give his photos a surreal tint. “I wanna see all the views I can see,” he says. How does Mota access these frequently off-limits “views”? He says ‘Please’. Although people usually say no, he has occasionally gotten permission to photograph the city, most notably from the top of Marina City, the high-rise apartment complexes easily recognized along the river’s edge by their corncob shape. “I never thought I would be able to do unless I lived there,” explains Mota, “People have been more than kind.” It is not always the instinct of a photographer to ask permission. Especially for those who aim to shoot clandestine scenes within America’s most habited cities, the urban explorer’s ambition occasionally drives them to the limits of the law. For example, Humza Deas (@ humzadeas), a photographer with more than 134,000 followers on Instagram, is known for his pictures from the tops of bridges across New York City. In an interview with Adrian Chen of New York magazine, Deas explained that his motivation for trespassing is the freedom to control the perspective he shares with the world by going where no one else has gone. Although he finds his shots through frequently extreme means, his mindset is not far from Mota’s, who looks for “rare moments when most people don’t see [Chicago], so to be able to share it and edit it the way that [I] see it adds

to the dramatic effect that it has.” Twenty-six-year-old Jena Gambaccini, also known as ChiCityFashion on Instagram, explores life in Chicago through its people, with a particular focus on the food they eat and outfits they craft. Her pictures still tell a unique story of Chicago, driven by her own creative aesthetic. “I post about things I like and that I’m interested in, with hopes that others feel the same,” she says, “And if they don’t, that’s okay. You can’t get it right every time.” Even though she’s not a photographer by trade, Gambaccini shares her commitment to self-driven work with Chicago’s newest innovative photographers. “Stuff that’s creative is always a good reminder that you don’t have to have a finite answer,” Mota says. “You can create an answer.” Something about Chicago makes all the planning, effort, and occasional failed attempts more than worth it. When asked to describe the character of Chicago, Gambaccini replied “Proud. Accepting. Fearless.” This seems more like a description of the photographer than of the city itself, but perhaps that is why the two go together so well.

MODA Summer 2015

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MODA Summer 2015

CANDY LAND

KEUP

Photographed by Albert Nam Makeup by Lucie Fama Models: Shweta Desiraju, Chloe Hadavas, Sophie Pizeuil, Basak Sunar MODA Summer 2015

Remember that time in our lives when we couldn't keep away from candy? These summer makeup looks are equally covetable as Beauty Editor Lucie Fama draws on nostalgia for sweet inspiration.

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BEYOND BOUNDARIES

The versatility of unisex fashion meets minimalist chic. Embrace a whole new range of sartorial possibilities. Photographed by Diane Lee Clothing from Notre and Steven Alan Styled by Cynthia Mao, Yady Rivero, Rohit Satishchandra, Wonna Wen Models: Josh Kramer, Damien Phillips, Octavia Shaw, Miranda Wei

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BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY Photographed by Gina Yu Clothing from Pitaya Styled by Frances Chen, Alexis Matthews, Ogonna Obiajunwa Hair & Makeup by Lucie Fama Models: Devon Eastlack, Tobi Gbile, Kennedy Green, Komal Kowatra, Natalie Richardson

icker Park has been the choice location for our latest escapades and we’ve fallen in love with a little boutique called Pitaya. Named after the cactus fruit, Pitaya is our fashionable go-to for the coming summer months. We like their youthful aesthetic and their summery charm so much that we decided to feature them in this issue. Pitaya started in 1990 in the college town of Bloomington, Indiana. Since then, the company has expanded in and around the Midwest and currently has 15 locations. In 2008, it opened in Chicago and has been a mainstay in Wicker Park ever since. Pitaya fits right in with all the hipster coffee shops, vintage boutiques, and vegan eateries. Its aesthetic is relevant, anticipative of summer, and affordable at price ranges from $12-$59. With trends changing so quickly, Pitaya is the place to take risks and try out the newest styles from the SS15 runways. According to Lauren Hackel, manager at the Wicker Park Pitaya, we should be pairing “a bold color with vibrant prints and simple accessories for chic style and comfortable day to night looks” this summer. Pitaya has everything to put those winter months behind you and have a fun, stylish summer. By Mary Pierce.

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