MWB 217 by fashion buyers Ltd

ISSUE 217 | DECEMBER 2014 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SHOW TIME MWB’S ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE A/W 15 BUYING CALENDAR, FROM LONDON TO LAS VEGAS — TALENT TALKS PROFILING SOME OF THE LEADING DESIGNERS AT LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN — BERLIN INSIDER PREMIUM FOUNDER ANITA TILLMANN ON THE FUTURE OF THE SHOW — FASHION’S NEW FRONTIERS HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE ANNUAL ASBCI CONFERENCE

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DECEMBER 2014 | CONTENTS | 03

R E T A I L 10

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

Retail Insider The latest in-store news

Fashion’s New Frontiers – What’s Next? Highlights from the latest ASBCI Conference

G E N T 22

Product News Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock Familiar pattern

Pitti Uomo Six of the key brands to catch for a/w 15

Panorama The latest developments from the Berlin show

Hat’s the way to do it Heritage label Goorin Bros

London Collections: Men The capital’s finest menswear talent

D E N I M 38

Product News

S T R E E T

Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock Sweat it out

Lee hits 125 Celebrating the denim label’s 125th anniversary

Seek The growth of the contemporary menswear trade fair

Premium MWB speaks to founder Anita Tillmann

Exhibition calendar The dates, the times, the locations

More memories 170 years of retail specialist Morplan

R E G U L A R S 5 6 18

Comment News Interview

Mark Batista

56 59 62

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With… Tim Browne

Front cover:

Denim Is Everything 0800 011 9096 —

ÂŠ Rudolph Tegner/billedkunst.dk 2014.

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E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com

DECEMBER 2014 | COMMENT | 05

COMMENT

— D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — S U B

E D I T O R

Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S A L E S

E X E C U T I V E

Fiona Warburton fiona.warburton@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2014 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

As I sit here and write, the country is in the midst of Black Friday, with news reports of police called to supermarkets as people are being trampled on. Oh how the temptation of a discount can alter the Brits’ renowned love of an orderly, patient queue. — There is no doubt about it, people are beginning to shop again (risking life and limb to do so it may seem), with consumer spending over the festive period set to exceed that of last year. Although 2014 has been a tough year for many – the closure of what were thought to be successful independent retailers such as London’s Anthem and Birmingham’s A Too, for example, was saddening for the industry – there are retailers out there who, with masses of hard work, forward thinking and determination, continue in the fight for sales. One of those retailers is Steve Cochrane. I recently visited Cochrane’s store Psyche in Middlesbrough for an event that saw the indie awarded for all the work he has done within the town, which is also home to his new fashion store Style Lab. I sat with Cochrane – who was presented that evening with an award by the Mayor of Middlesbrough Ray Mallon, as well as hosting a fashion show and drinks reception – for dinner following the event and his determination and drive is clear for anyone to see. In an age where online shopping is a phenomenon growing faster than anyone could imagine (many websites on Black Friday had virtual queues lasting up to 30 minutes just to visit the landing page), Cochrane openly admits he finds internet trading difficult. His strength lies in great hands-on customer service, a strong and varied offer and creating retail theatre to draw in the crowds – the latter of which can’t be created through a screen and a mouse. As Mayor Ray Mallon said in his presentation, this is an indie who is willing to take a risk. And without that risk comes no reward. With that said, I sign off this, the last issue of 2014, by wishing you all a merry Christmas and a happy, prosperous New Year.

Victoria Jackson Editor

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DECEMBER 2014 | NEWS | 06

N E W S

DEMISED LABEL FARRELL REOPENS IN PRIMARK

CONSISTENCY KEY TO CHRISTMAS SALES Consumer spending is set to exceed that of last year, but retailers need to ramp up their efforts across omni-channel retailing if they are to secure seasonal spend, industry experts warn. As part of an ongoing fast-paced evolution of consumer behaviour, shopping habits this Christmas will show a stark difference in comparison to those of Christmas 2013. “The rise of m-commerce is encouraging consumers to shop anywhere at any time, increasing the likelihood that there will be several demand spikes this Christmas, potentially making it the most unpredictable Christmas in history from a retail perspective,” says Andrew Fowkes, head of retail centre of excellence, SAS UK. New phenomena such as Black Friday and Cyber Monday saw stores across the UK welcome a frenzy of shoppers in search of discounts. Consumer insight analyst Experian estimated Cyber Monday consumer spend, for example, to be £649.6m – a 26 per cent increase on Cyber Monday last year. Research from online retail body IMRG, however, found that a staggering 47 per cent of consumers are planning to order gifts online less than a week before Christmas – a figure up from 34 per cent this time last year. Specifically, over half felt that Wednesday 17 December was the last acceptable day to order presents online, while 32 per cent maintained that they would feel comfortable ordering up unto Saturday 20 December for delivery before Christmas. “The increase in the proportion of shoppers willing to place orders within a week of the big day is testimony to the confidence they now have in online delivery,” says Andrew Starkey, head of logistics at IMRG. “As we enter the peak e-retail trading period, the percentage of orders delivered in the time scale promised is running at its highest level for two years and, with more pre-delivery advice and click & collect solutions available, the carrier industry is pulling out all the shops to help retailers to deliver Christmas ‘on time’.” For retailers, it’s an added dimension of responsibility to ensure that the right product is not only on the shelf at the right time, but also able to reach its consumer safely beyond the stockroom. For those who do it right, however, the rewards can be huge. —

Farrell, the one-time premium menswear label founded by singer Robbie Williams, has relaunched into high-street retailer Primark, despite ceasing trading in 2013 after being declared bankrupt. With a 30-piece collection, the range will be priced between £8 and £45 – a world away from its once RRP of £350 for a woollen Crombie. “We’ve absolutely loved working with the Farrell brand,” says Ben Smith, director of menswear, Primark. “The product looks superb with fastidious detail and amazing value and has remained true to its origin. “Not only have we ensured the product is amazing, but the whole concept from quality through to design and store environment have all played a massive part in ensuring we deliver a firstclass, exclusive range to the Primark customer.” —

CAMPAIGN LAUNCHED FOR SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY American Express, founder of retail initiative Small Business Saturday, launched a marketing campaign to raise awareness and support of the event, which took place on 6 December. The high-profile initiative supported local shops, restaurants and other independent businesses ahead of this year’s Small Business Saturday. American Express commissioned a trio of highprofile Shop Small supporters who are passionate about local, independent shops to use their talents to shine the spotlight on the nation’s small businesses. Artist Sir Peter Blake, who famously created the sleeve design for the Beatles’ Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, is creating a bespoke piece of celebratory art, which will be available to download later this month. —

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DECEMBER 2014 | NEWS | 07

THE YEAR THAT WAS

LC:M RELEASES PROVISIONAL SHOW SCHEDULE

NOMINATIONS OPEN FOR BIRA

London Collections: Men has released its provisional show schedule ahead of its a/w 15 edition, which takes place on 9-12 January 2015. With over 60 designers confirmed to exhibit across static and catwalk presentations, the British menswear event will welcome back names such as Maharishi, Burberry Prorsum and Tom Ford. The schedule sees the addition of one day, increasing it to a four-day show, with Topman Design opening the show on Friday 9 January at 12.30pm. Other key designers include Ede & Ravenscroft (pictured), Babour, Paul Smith, Thomas Pink, CaselyHayford, Tiger of Sweden and Moschino. Remember to follow MWB on Twitter @ mwbmagazine and Facebook at MWBMagazine for full LC:M coverage across the four-day event. —

Nominations are now open for next year’s Bira Awards, the industry accolades designed to recognise outstanding achievement within the retail sector. This year’s event comprises four categories – Independent Retailer of the Year, Retail Employee of the Year, Charitable Companion and Bira Direct Supplier Awards, and retailers can enter across more than one category. Taking place at Chesford Grange Hotel in Kenilworth, Warwick, on Wednesday 13 May, the award dinner will be complimentary to all finalists along with entry to Bira’s annual conference, which will take place on the same day. For more information and to enter, call Jo Cooper on 0121 446 6688 or email joanne.cooper@ bira.co.uk. —

PRETTY GREEN EXPANSION PLANS WELCOME NEW HQ

AMERICAN RAG CIE EXPANDS INTO CHINA

Menswear label Pretty Green is to relocate its head office to London’s Kings Cross to a 6,000 sq ft space, including a showroom for the first time. The move comes as plans to expand its retail portfolio drive forward, with the latest opening taking place at the end of November at Westfield London, as well other sites across the country – primarily the south and west, where Pretty Green doesn’t currently have a strong presence. The brand recently appointed Pierre Darnton, former UK & Ireland managing director of G-Star, as head of international business and wholesale as it plans to expand into the US. —

American Rag Cie – the Los Angeles multi-brand retail concept – will open 40 stores across China over the next three years as part of an ambitious global expansion plan. The move, which is spearheaded by the founders of Hong Kong trade show The HUB, will see over 50 menswear and womenswear brands including John Smedley, American Retro, Alpha Industries and Public School establish a presence in the ever-growing Chinese market. “We are putting our money where our mouth is,” says Peter Caplowe, co-founder of The HUB. “We started The HUB because we believed that the next stage of retail development in China would be the growth of multi-label. We will be a leading player in that field and have a great team of experienced professionals and investors that will see American Rag Cie become the leading retail brand in China.” —

OLYMP TURNOVER EXCEEDS €200M FOR FIRST TIME. 1n 2013 German shirt and knitwear specialist Olymp experienced annual turnover growth by a further €15.5m to €202.4m, representing an increase of 8.3 per cent against the previous year. — JACKET REQUIRED RETURNS EAST. Marking a return to its native East London, Jacket Required’s sixth edition saw its biggest line-up to date, with a brand new extended show space and a host of unmissable names in contemporary and directional menswear. — BREAD & BUTTER CANCELS PUBLIC DAYS. German trade show retracted from consumer plans amid strong resistance from trade. — FRANKLIN & MARSHALL MAKES UK RETAIL DEBUT. The Italian lifestyle label opened its first store in Covent Garden. — E-COMMERCE BENEFITS FROM WET FEBRUARY. Online retail sales went from strength to strength, fuelled by atrocious winter and growing consumer confidence in e-commerce. — BENCH OWNER AMERICANA INTERNATIONAL SOLD. Private equity firm Emeram Capital Partners acquired the Manchester fashion house. — THE HUB MOVES DOWNTOWN AFTER STRONG SECOND SHOW. The show is relocating to a new central venue for its next edition. — MOBILE SALES TO SOAR BY THE END OF 2014. One in ten retailers expect more than 50 per cent of their online sales to come via mobile by the end of 2014. — TRINITY LEEDS NAMED BEST DEVELOPMENT. West Yorkshire complex awarded accolade at ICSC Awards. — FSB WELCOMES SUPPORT FOR SMALL BUSINESSES. Opposition leader Ed Miliband pledged support at Federation’s annual conference. — ALEXANDER WANG TO COLLABORATE WITH H&M. Designer followed in the footsteps of Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney. — MICHAEL WHITBY-GRUBB EXITS PENROSE LONDON. Following six years as commercial director, Whitby-Grubb left the business. — WHISTLES DIVERSIFIES INTO MENSWEAR. Retailer made menswear debut for a/w 14. — SOLID RECOVERY FOR UK ECONOMY. Latest figures suggest strong growth next quarter. — ANTHEM BECOMES LATEST INDIE TO CLOSE ITS DOORS. The retailer’s website announced it had ceased trading both online and in-store. — AMAZON LAUNCHES TWITTER SHOPPING. Online retail giant will offer consumers option of shopping via social media. — DAME MARGARET BARBOUR HONOURED BY UKFT. Industry award ceremony presents Barbour with the Outstanding Achievement Award. — E-ZONE LIVE DEBUTS AT MODA. Exhibition launched its new, dedicated e-commerce area. — BESTSELLER ACQUIRED M&M DIRECT. Danish fashion house finalised agreement for an undisclosed sum. — ASOS HIT BY FIRE. Blaze destroyed 20 per cent of stock in warehouse. — RETAIL INSOLVENCIES EXPERIENCE FIVE-YEAR HIGH. Almost 1,300 declared insolvent last year. —

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DECEMBER 2014 | NEWS | 08

THE YEAR THAT WAS

PENROSE LONDON FOUNDER MITCHELL JACOBS DIES

CONSUMERS PUT FAITH IN CREDIT

Mitchell Jacobs (pictured above left), founder of accessory label Penrose London and British label Duchamp, passed away on 3 November, following ill health. Jacobs left the business earlier this year, having suffered a stroke. Penrose London voluntarily entered administration with Panos Eliades Franklin & Co in October, and was recently acquired by silk mill Vanners. “At the time of this announcement we also have to sadly reflect on the passing of Mitchell Jacobs,” says Vanners managing director Richard Stevenson. “The teams at Vanners and Panos Eliades Franklin & Co wish to pass on their condolences to his family. It is Vanners’ intention that the brand continues to follow its original core values, and will ensure that our customers continue to enjoy excellent product design, quality and service.” —

The number of credit cards currently in use in Britain has risen to 59.7 million; the highest level in four years. The data – released by the British Bankers Association – indicates that consumer confidence is rising as customers feel increasingly comfortable with a return to spending. “When we feel more secure in our jobs and optimistic about the economic outlook, we are more likely to take on more credit,” says BBA chief economist Richard Woolhouse. “So it’s pleasing to see that the number of cards in issue is now higher than at any time for four years.” September saw 214 million credit card transactions – an increase of nine per cent on the same period last year. Consumers are, however, spending responsibly, according to the BBA, with most paying off their debt more quickly and taking advantage of interest-free periods. —

PRIMARK SALES INCREASE 17 PER CENT

DISGRUNTLED SHOPPERS VOTE WITH THEIR FEET

Primark has announced a 17 per cent increase in sales at constant currency for the full year to September 2014. This positive development was driven by an increase in retail selling space with like-for-like sales growth of four per cent, and rise in sales in the new stores. The high-street retailer saw buoyant sales over the last Christmas period, and a continued increase in sales in the third quarter due to the warm weather the UK experienced. Primark’s financial year, meanwhile, saw 25 store openings, including five new retail locations in France. Looking forward, it expects to increase selling space for the financial year to be to be a little less than 1.0 million sq ft. The retailer will also open in the US, with a lease for 70,000 sq ft of selling space at Downtown Crossing the heart of Boston, Massachusetts signed in April, with an expected opening of late 2015. —

Poor customer service is driving shoppers to abandon their purchases and head to a competitor, according to research by real-time shopper engagement specialist Indyme. The study revealed that 70 per cent of UK shoppers have walked out of an outlet due to a lack of assistance, with almost all of them leaving behind goods worth more than £20, and 40 per cent leaving shopping worth more than £30. “Retailers simply can’t afford to be complacent,” says Terry Clancy, commercial director Western Europe at Indyme. “Shoppers have an abundance of choice, not only on the high street, but also online – and they’re more demanding than ever. They don’t part with their cash lightly, so if they feel they’re getting poor value for money – and that includes customer service – they’ll simply go elsewhere. —

WORKERS GAIN FLEXIBILITY RIGHTS. Employers “must consider” requests for flexible working patterns. — HIGH-STREET FOOTFALL FALLS IN JUNE. Outof-town shopping and online retail were strongest performers. — BREAD & BUTTER ON THE MOVE. The trade show announced it would move to Barcelona for its winter edition, remaining in Berlin for the summer. — ROYAL MAIL INTRODUCES CLICK & COLLECT. Postal service continues its drive to regain its share of the courier market. — NEW-LOOK MODA PROVIDES INDUSTRY BOOST. Many brands celebrated their best season on record at the 26th edition of the show. — VACANCY RATES FALL. Shop vacancy rate is lowest since July 2011. — BREAD & BUTTER MAKES U-TURN OVER BARCELONA PLANS. The show’s founder Karl-Heinz Müller says the show will now remain in Berlin, following scepticism from exhibitors and visitors about the winter move. — LIDL EXPANDS INTO MENSWEAR. Value grocery chain goes head-to-head with supermarkets and Primark. — TWITTER ADDS PURCHASING FUNCTIONALITY. Social-media site will introduce buy button on certain tweets as of today. — DAVID HARVEY. Menswear and textile journalist David Harvey sadly passed away in September, aged 84. — UKFT CHAIRMAN PETER LUCAS TO STEP DOWN. From May 2015 deputy chairman Nigel Lugg will take over the role. — LABOUR TO COMMIT TO CUT IN BUSINESS RATES. Ed Miliband will unveil a one per cent cut in business rates in 2015 if the Labour Party wins next year’s elections. — ACCENT CELEBRATES 30 YEARS. The Leeds indie welcomed guests to an evening of music and fashion to celebrate its 30th year. — THE IDLE MAN SECURES $1.2M INVESTMENT. The menswear site has received funding from private-equity house Foresight Nottingham. — RELOCATION FOR ALVANON. Fit solutions company expands into new premises. — LC:M TO INCREASE TO FOUR DAYS. Menswear exhibition will add extra day to accommodate growing schedule. — DIESEL SET TO EXIT USC. The denim specialist will come out of the high-street stockist for autumn 2015 in a bid to realign itself as a premium label. — BOND STREET GETS £20M MAKEOVER. The iconic London street will undergo its first major revamp in 30 years. — DOUBLE TWO’S GEOFF PHIPPS RETIRED. Phipps’ career in the fashion industry spans 45 years, holding senior positions with the Crowther Group, Van Heusen and Double Two. — MORLEYS ACQUIRED CAMP HOPSON. Independent department store increases store portfolio. — CUTS TO ESSENTIAL INDUSTRY FUNDING. UKFT fights government plans to cut vital Trade Access Programme (TAP) support for the fashion and textiles industry. —

HEART of FASHION MODA 15-17 February 2015 NEC Birmingham. Register online at moda-uk.co.uk

Woman

Lingerie & Swimwear

Accessories

Gent

Footwear

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DECEMBER 2014 | ADVICE | 10

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: WHY ONLINE AND IN-STORE MUST REFLECT THE BEST OF BOTH CHANNELS

IAN TOMLINSON is the CEO of Cybertill and can be contacted via www.cybertill.co.uk

As the customer continues to become increasingly technology savvy, their expectations from retailers and brands have reached an all-time high. And while online is certainly proving to be the preferred way to shop, it has never been more important for retailers to join up all aspects of their business if they wish to create the omni-channel experience their customers crave. For most customers, shopping online and in-store simultaneously has become the norm; they now expect to see in-store data, such as stock levels, when browsing online and to be able to return goods bought on the retailer’s website in-store, for example. Integrating your sales channels is the first step to take here, as it will present the ability to share information across the entire business, ensuring that both your website and stores are never caught off guard by today’s fast-moving consumer. Investing in the right technology is integral if a retailer wants to create this seamless experience across both its online channel and store base. An enterprise system that can facilitate the flow of live information from the supply chain is ideal, linking the process of ordering, warehousing and fulfilment through to customer facing software applications, such as e-commerce and points of sale. This integration makes stock visible from the supply chain to the customer and every touch point in between, so the retailer can allocate the desired stock to the right channel at the right time and the customer can shop with confidence knowing their product is available. There will always be a temptation to mimic competitors when taking your first step into an omni-channel model, but it is one you must try to resist. Instead of focusing on what they do successfully, you must understand what issues need addressing in your own business first, and this is where your customers can help. Retailers need to research and engage with their customer base to find out what services they expect now, and may want in the future, before mapping out any objectives towards an omnichannel plan. —

WEBWATCH

WWW.BESTOFBRITANNIA.COM Best of Britannia, the consumer and B2B trade show that takes place each October at the iconic Farmiloe Building in Clerkenwell, has launched its first e-commerce site. Featuring brands spanning fashion, interiors, grooming and more, the site presents over 200 brands such as Beulah Home, Born British and Chapman Bags. The aim for the website is to have all Best of Britannia brands available, as further backing to a growing initiative to Buy British. —

NEWS

FARFETCH LAUNCHES CLICK AND COLLECT Farfetch, the online global shopping platform that brings together some of the world’s best boutiques and retailers, has launched a click-and-collect service. The service will allow customers to order online and pick up their purchase at one of over 100 destinations globally. Farfetch Click & Collect is designed to provide premium customer service, convenience and flexible delivery options for consumers. “Our business proposition means we are able to offer a more far-reaching version of traditional click and collect services, complementing our global customers’ lifestyle,” says José Neves, founder and CEO of Farfetch. “Farfetch Click & Collect empowers our boutiques with a platform that extends their presence around the globe, while also increasing footfall to the boutiques.” The service is currently available in over 100 stores including Kirna Zabete in New York City, Feathers in London, Biffi in Milan, Wendela Van Dijk in Rotterdam, Wrong Weather in Porto, Andreas Murkudis in Berlin, Tom Greyhound in Paris and Jofre in Barcelona. — MENLOOK.COM RAISES £29M FUNDING French online retailer Menlook.com has finalised its $29m fundraising programme, which sees investment from the site’s historical shareholders Partech International, Orkos Capital and 123venture Funds. Other investors include Idinvest Partners, Marc and Laurent Grosman (founders of the Celio ready-towear group) and BPR France. Securing this finance allows Menlook. com to build on its international leadership and enhance its range of services in order to provide its most customised offering in the market. The site has also announced the launch of a premium marketplace, focusing on emerging designers and brands. With 60 per cent of its sales posted internationally, it boasts one of the highest export rates among French companies. The successful fundraising occurred in the wake of the acquisition of British menswear destination Oki-Ni. —

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DECEMBER 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 12

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

VIEWPOINT Grant Mitchell is the owner of independent menswear retailer Cooper & McKenzie, in Dundee, and is a member of The Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

FLAGSHIP DEBUT FOR HUNTER Iconic British footwear label Hunter opened its first flagship last month, showcasing its entire men’s, women’s and children’s collections. Occupying a 5,300 sq ft unit on London’s Regent Street, the store spearheads a wider expansion plan, which will see the standalone retail model rolled out across the UK and worldwide. “The Regent Street flagship is the first opportunity for the Hunter customer to enter the home of this iconic British brand,” says creative director Alasdhair Willis, the brand’s creative director. “This ambitious new store concept starts to clearly deliver a retail experience that represents the brand’s exciting new vision and future. Lifting iconic references from the British countryside and reappropriating them for this urban environment delivers Hunter’s take on the traditional store concept and was designed to appeal to our diverse customer base.” The store is designed around a barn theme, with a contemporary edge provided by the fivemetre-high LED screen, which will display exclusive content from Hunter’s London Fashion Week shows and promotional campaigns. The first floor references British eccentricity with a surreal take on an English garden theme, while the lower ground floor is dedicated to Hunter’s children’s collection. —

IN BRIEF JOHN LEWIS XMAS BAROMETER John Lewis saw sales of £108.8m last month, breaking the £100m barrier for the first time this year and matching its 2013 record for the earliest week to have reached this milestone. Sales were +7.2 per cent on last year, and +13.7 per cent week-on-week. Online sales were +15 per cent year-on-year. The retailer has also experienced high praise for its omni-channel offering, with its shops and supply chain both receiving accolades. John Lewis was named Retail and Etail Fulfilment Operation of the Year at the European Supply Chain Excellence Awards alongside John Lewis York being named Best Department Store of the Year at the Retail Week Interiors Awards. —

FURTHER EXPANSION FOR OPEN Open, the menswear store established by JD Sports, has further expanded its retail portfolio with the launch of four more stores across the UK, including Dudley, Glasgow, Bristol and Leicester. The brand, which was founded earlier this year, currently has seven shops nationwide, as well as a transactional website and strong social-media presence. Open focuses on quality, with a 350-piece collection aimed at 20-30 year olds, with accessible prices and transeasonal ranges. Prices range from £5 for a T-shirt, through to £40 for a parka – prices similar to that of H&M and Uniqlo. —

In all honesty, we could have done with the weather to have been a touch colder during the last couple of months. Thankfully, when buying for this season, I made a conscious decision to opt in the main for lighterweight outerwear; condensing numbers and buying into exclusive brands where sound margin is guaranteed. Of course, we know the weather would eventually turn, but sadly this delay will have impacted many of us. In the “old” days we never had to discount in season, but today the full-price selling season continues to shorten. Speaking to other retailers in the south of the UK, I think it’s true to say things are tougher this season. At Cooper & McKenzie, we’ve bought thoughtfully to deal with the climate. My intention is not to reduce an item solely because footfall has been lower than expected. I would rather batten down the hatches and wait for circumstances to change. In Dundee, we have the benefit of the Waterfront development and three new hotels, which will in time raise the profile of the city and increase the footfall. We are aware that we cannot rely on locals to sustain our customer base; we need to work towards bringing folk in from outside the city. We are traditionally a “clothing house”, and do need predictable seasons in order to justify offering large selections of seasonal stock. Having the advantage of an on-site warehouse facility means we are in a position to take delivery early. A/w is usually our biggest season but, today, summer is the longer selling period for us. I see no point in grieving about the challenges we face in retail, but try to look at what we are doing and how we are doing it. As we celebrate Cooper & McKenzie’s 140th year in business, I abide by my belief that as long as the product is right, you should be happy to commit and prepared to carry things forward. I’d never kid anyone that it’s not tough out there. It is. But someone once told me, “There is no such thing as a problem; only a solution”, and I think it’s a motto to live by in this industry. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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DECEMBER 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 13

SHOPPED: LE MONDE How badly has the season’s mild weather impacted sales of outerwear and knitwear? We didn’t buy too heavily into either category because the real winter weather seems to come after Christmas, so we try to buy accordingly. Obviously we have some heavy jackets, but they are from brands such as CP Company, Stone Island and Canada Goose, which still sell because of the appeal of those brands. — JASON ODY, Have flash sales from the big boys and websites also OWNER, LE MONDE, impacted on consumer spending in-store? WOLVERHAMPTON I would say so, but it’s hard to quantify the impact. People do ask us to price match, though. We get them coming in, trying things on, photographing the bar codes and trying to go off and buy it somewhere else if they think they can get it cheaper. Consumers have become more savvy in that respect. We try not to follow suit with flash sales, and the whole Black Friday thing. We’re good old fashioned bricks and mortar, selling premium products to regular customers. If you have a Sale for a day, and a regular customer comes in the day after, it’s going to create a negative feeling. — Have there been any silver linings on Sales for this season, such as must-have brands or specific products that have sold well? Love Moschino has been strong. We used to carry Moschino around 10 years ago and it’s our first season back with it. Stone Island has also performed well, and we’ve done well with Belstaff because it’s more of that transitional type of jacket that’s too heavy but looks good. —

IN FOCUS: WEAVERS 1 CAVERN WALKS, HARRINGTON STREET, LIVERPOOL, MERSEYSIDE L2 6RE

ESTABLISHED: SEPTEMBER 2010 — BRANDS: ALAN PAINE, EDWIN JAPAN, BARBOUR, FRACAP, MUSEUM, SOULLAND, BLEU DE PANAME, FOLK, OLIVER SPENCER, OUR LEGACY, STUTTERHEIM, UNIVERSAL WORKS, MAJESTIC SELECT, PENFIELD

SIMON CARTER EXPANDS RETAIL PORTFOLIO Simon Carter, the British accessory and tailoring label, has unveiled its latest retail portfolio addition with the opening of a store in Brighton. Located in the city’s North Laines, the regency building measures 600 sq ft, which is the brand’s largest store to date. In terms of interior, the store will return to the building’s former roots of a tailors back in 1847 with signature Brighton bow windows, stripped floors, cinnamon staircase wall and exposed 19th century brick. The store will also house a guest gallery, with the first exhibitor being Kirstine Chaffey – an artist known for her vibrancy and use of colour. —

IN BRIEF

Located on Harrington Street in Liverpool’s historic Cavern Quarter, Weavers Door is a premium menswear store that prides itself on presenting authentic heritage and championing “true brands”. Since opening in September 2010, Weavers Door has offered Liverpool the finest menswear apparel and related products with an aim to strive for the best, and nothing less. A well-considered selection of British, American, Scandinavian and Japanese brands including Barbour, Norse Projects, Edwin Japan, Grenson and Sunspel can be found in-store and online at www.weaversdoor.com. A mix of form and function alongside good design means outdoor specialists such as Fjallraven and Patagonia can sit alongside contemporary labels including Our Legacy, Folk and Universal Works in this city centre outpost. Inside, the humble store atmosphere is brought about by natural wood furnishings, exposed steel and a feature wall filled with iconic music bands and albums, curated by buying director Tim Keating. —

CUBITTS WORKSHOP OPENS British bespoke spectacles brand Cubitts has opened its first flagship Workshop on Marshall Street in London’s Soho. The store includes specially developed software for the workshop helping to measure individual face shapes to find the ideal fit of glasses, reclaimed furnishings from around the world and from 2015 the brand will be offering personal appointments to create bespoke product as well as eye tests. This extends to selecting from a wide offering of Acetate and Horn frames, exact measurements for face shape and comfort, lens options (prescriptions, transitional and polarised) in multiple colours and laser engraving on the inside arm. —

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DECEMBER 2014 | MODA | PROMOTION | 14

THE BUSINESS OF BUYING MWB brings you the latest from the UK’s largest fashion trade event Moda, taking place on 15-17 February 2015 at Birmingham’s NEC. —

OLYMP

Fusing together the best of British and international emerging brands and well-known labels, Moda will once again offer visitors a dynamic mix of contemporary and mainstream collections. The international line-up in Moda Gent and Moda Footwear this season continues to build on the show’s strong reputation for diverse collections and products. German brands in particular are out in force as Moda favourites step out for a/w 15. Among them are trouser specialist Meyer, shirt label Olymp, and casualwear brands Diegl, Fynch-Hatton and Camel Active. The latter will also present its new-season collection of footwear and underwear at the show to bring visitors the full Camel Active menswear range this season. Staying close to home, labels heavily influenced by heritage style and made in the UK include Scottish knitwear specialist Hawick, which returns to Moda Gent with its latest offer of hand-finished pull-overs and cardigans. Mirroring the strength in depth of homegrown brands, Bladen’s quintessential English gentleman styling is matched by the label’s commitment to craftsmanship and the continuation and evolution of the patterns, cuts and tweeds used since its launch in 1917. Gloverall will also return

to the event with its signature duffel coat styles, cementing the heritage vibe across a variety of products this season. Building on this theme, a host of brands are this season capitalising on a fusion of town and country, offering up country inspired tweeds, checks and tailoring suitable for all settings with Skopes, Magee, Gibson, Viyella and Gurteen among the labels remodelling classic looks. At the other end of the spectrum, Moda Gent will launch brand new fastfashion area The Loft this season. The pop-up marketplace located next to the catwalk will offer an edited selection of men’s labels and will join urban and contemporary area Select in developing the variety of product available at the show. In neighbouring Moda Footwear, the heritage theme continues, with brands such as Barker and Loake set to exhibit their latest collections. Elsewhere, iconic label Dr Martens will return alongside the likes of Barbour and Iberian brands Paradigma and Fly London. In casual footwear, Hi-Tec is celebrating 25 years of the now retro running training the Silver Shadow, and will be joined by fellow activewear specialists Gola Sport and newcomer Helly Hansen.

DIGEL

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DECEMBER 2014 | MODA | PROMOTION | 15

Must-see highlights at this season’s Moda

THE MODA COMMUNITY

BE2B HUB

Moda-uk.co.uk offers a host of planning tools and useful information for you to plan your trip, including the Moda Community. All you have to do to gain access to the Community, start saving the brands you want to see, making appointments and starting conversation with them is to register for the show online today.

Moda has been combining fashion with invaluable business and retail insights and advice for several seasons and continuing to build on its one-stopshop offer for all your buying and business needs, this season will see the launch of the BE2B Hub. Bringing together the best in in-store display, point of sale and merchandising services with the latest technologies to equip businesses to take advantage of both online consumer audiences and enhance bricks and mortar experiences. The area will be centred round a business and e-commerce retail theatre, which will deliver a host of presentations, panels and discussions keeping you up-to-date and informed of all the latest developments within the industry.

DR MARTENS

MENSWEAR COMES TO LIFE

MEYER

New this season, get an expert insight into men’s footwear and clothing on the catwalk with Stefan Maurel, CEO of StylePilot. StylePilot is fast becoming the go-to online resource for menswear retailers and consumers to discover the latest looks, preview new-season styles and find items to reflect their style, aspirations and body type. With 10 years’ experience as an online entrepreneur, Stefan has spent the last 12 months developing the StylePilot DNA Tool™, which returns personalised recommendations for outfits based on body type and style. He will also be giving a live demonstration of the tools and knowledge he has developed using Moda’s catwalk trends.

EAT, DRINK, NETWORK As the UK’s leading fashion industry event, Moda is the perfect place to connect with other retailers, brands, press and service providers. As well as inviting all visitors to toast the end of the first show in the Atrium on Sunday 15 February, Moda’s Monday night party at The Beeches Bar and Grill, a short drive from the NEC, is another chance to catch up with your peers in a relaxed environment. The Beeches is a ticketed event, and for £20pp you will receive a drink on arrival and a premium barbecue. To book your tickets please contact Nicole Yates on +44 (0)1484 846069 or email nicole.yates@moda-uk.co.uk.

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DECEMBER 2014 | REPORT | 16

FASHION’S NEW FRONTIERS – WHAT’S NEXT? The Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI) recently welcomed a panel of leading industry professionals and academics from fashion consultancies, supply chain, retail, technology, law and academia to discuss Fashion’s New Frontiers – What’s Next? — An audience of 130 delegates comprising retailers, manufacturers, university lecturers, supply chain and logistics companies attended the recent conference Fashion’s New Frontiers, organised by the Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI). At the event, a panel of key industry insiders looked at how trust and strategic collaboration can help stakeholders meet the increasingly challenging demands of the retail and online clothing sector. Dr Julie King, ASBCI event chairman and head of fashion and textiles at the University of Northampton, chaired the conference and introduced speakers in collaboration with Mark Randall, business development director at UL, which was the event sponsor. Randall set the scene by explaining that the rate of change wrought by online innovation and globalisation posed serious operational and technological challenges to the supply chain. He argued that retailers and major brands are setting the bar for the industry and that only by working closely with their strategic partners will they achieve successful outcomes for people, businesses and the environment. Lorna Ward, director at PwC Consulting, meanwhile, explained “cost, quality and risk equate to value” during her talk on Tomorrow’s Balance Sheet: Managing Supply Costs, and for retailers one of the most problematic issues is where to source from. Although the minimum wage in China has increased by 13.5 per cent since 2011 and is set to continue rising until 2016, it will continue to dominate global sourcing. “Is it better to be a follower and stick to what you know or, be a leader and take a chance on relatively unknown new territories such as Myanmar?” asked Ward. “Both options require clear supplier segmentation to support effective commercial planning. “Consolidating contracts down to highvalue, high-performance suppliers opens the door to strong strategic partnerships based on collaboration,” she continued. “A realistic retail price point needs to balance against risk, and volume spending offshore is considered high risk, but a trained buyer can negotiate a fair deal while avoiding conflict. This kind of business practice supported with PLM solutions will encourage a seamless flow of communication, trust and transparency, thus reducing the possibility of

PETER NUNN, ASSOCIATE AT LAW FIRM MISCHON DE REYA, LOOKED AT PROTECTING BRAND IDENTITY.

unforeseen costly risks.” Looking deeper into sourcing trends was Adrian Elliott, president of apparel and footwear at Coats Plc, who spoke of the rapid predicted growth of Asia’s middle class by 2030. According to Elliot, the increased demand for apparel and footwear will see the Asia-Pacific region shifting from being a production export base to becoming the world’s largest consumer market. The rapid development of Asian economies will see cost inflation exceed consumer price and digital technology will drive change further with increased investment in machine and process automation. Elliott stated, “The pursuit of the cheap needle is coming to an end due to the challenge and huge trend of driving down lead times and upping productivity along the complete supply chain.” He described rumours of the demise of China as “greatly exaggerated”, with 40–45 per cent of the world’s production still coming from this area, and a bigger mix of Asian and nearmarket sourcing becoming more commonplace. South East Asia will become very popular within the next 5-10 years, while new hotspots will re-emerge such as Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Portugal,

South Africa, northern Africa, Central America, Mexico and Columbia. Myanmar, undoubtedly, is one to watch. Throughout the day it was evident that compliance will remain a firm fixture for sound business practice, while corporate social responsibility will be integrated into more activities. Laura Hawkesford, ethical trading manager at Marks & Spencer, spoke about Ethical and Responsible Sourcing: Planning for An Ethical Future, which detailed an integrated business approach to compliance, sourcing, buying and ethical issues. Reports from China claim the demand for labour is falling as its young and assertive employees embrace social media and force businesses to keep pace with cultural shifts. M&S is using mobile technology in a factory environment to survey workers’ opinions and increase dialogue between the shop floor and management. By calling a free-phone number on a smartphone and providing anonymous answers, the surveys have empowered workers to raise issues with management. However, it was acknowledged that fine-tuning was needed across issues of scalability and asking the right

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JAMIE MURRAY WELLS, INDUSTRY HEAD OF RETAIL AT GOOGLE UK, CONSIDERED THE POWER OF MOBILE TECHNOLOGY.

questions and that this type of communication would never replace traditional audits. Sophisticated risk management within the supply chain was repeatedly acknowledged during the conference, and Jeremy Opperer, European technical operations director at Intertek, stated that innovation will inherently involve risk. Opperer advised that risk should not be seen as an innovation inhibitor, but rather as an incentive to “invest in the (supplier) partnership, highlighting issues and bringing the supplier in early to discuss the protocols and product specifications encourages dialogue and feedback.” It was recommended to “trust, but verify” in the supply chain and let suppliers fulfil their role without micro-management. The most effective way to foresee and eliminate signs of potential trouble is to communicate findings to the entire supply chain, a hurdle that many fall at, explained Opperer. “Very strong brands do great risk assessment, but don’t communicate,” he continued. “Data is out there. You just need to take it – search out consumer information from multiple sources such as online product reviews, returns forms, fashion blogs and social media – an obvious quick win without much additional effort.” Meanwhile, Vicky Brock, CEO of Clear Returns, described the reason for unwanted items as “a black hole of knowledge” within the industry. The impact of this on the customer experience is one to be addressed sooner rather than later if retailers are to keep their heads above water. It was suggested the smartest move is to take a predictive approach and build a portfolio of characteristics of the buyer at category level and what it is they are likely to return. Retailers should focus on “who, not what, was returned” and with the high-value shopper having a return rate of 1.7 per cent, analysing the behaviour of this group provides the most accurate indicator as to why items are unwanted. A service or product issue will usually be the cause. Reiterating the point of effective utilisation and action on intelligence received, retailers must be responsive to issues, but with 43 per cent of retailers capturing data and doing nothing with it, retrospective reporting is costly. Brock warned profit margins will be wiped out on an item if it is returned more than three times. Slow-selling

DECEMBER 2014 | REPORT | 17

items receiving a push through marketing can also spike returns as just one “toxic” product – either defective or of poor quality – can escalate costs by producing a 2.5 per cent increase on returns of everything else in the same basket. Protecting brand integrity was the topic of discussion for Peter Nunn, associate at law firm Mischon De Reya. According to the PwC Counterfeit Survey in 2013, 41 per cent of British residents admitted to purchasing counterfeit items. Imitations are becoming harder to spot due to similar price points of the genuine article, product being sold on upscale looking websites produced at low cost and adverts on search engines. The internet has enabled the problem to become so prolific, with sales of fake goods via social media rising by 15 per cent in the last year. The new challenge is that of 3D printing as counterfeiters already have the ability to print synthetic replicas of designer accessories. Cheap unbranded items will be harder to detect when entering the EU, plus with “finishing in the UK” items can slip through the net completely. Other issues brought to the audience’s attention were that of 3D design files being intercepted and shared on peer-to-peer sites. To combat this we will be seeing trademarks inside garments and in places other than the label, electronic files will be protected and an interesting trend we may encounter is that of design files being offered for sale. Change is coming and the industry must move with the times, explained Kevin Townend, non-executive director at Advanced Supply Chain and companies must be agile and responsive to their customers’ specific needs. He cited the example of Primark, where a logistical nightmare was averted after the retailer suffered a warehouse fire in 2005 that destroyed £175m of stock. A global recovery plan saw 100 containers of stock arriving daily to stores on time via sea. How did they do it? Townend said, “The plan was based on being agile and assessing all possible risks, learning from other companies and by preparing for the unexpected, now. You need to incorporate your values into your recovery plan.” Tony Hines, professor of marketing at Manchester Metropolitan University, addressed delegates with his Iceberg Theory, which identified time, cost and value as the three things needing management in the supply chain in order to serve the customer better and faster. Hine said more collaboration is needed to enhance visibility as speed was “the aim of the game.” He spoke of the consumer wanting a good deal and how they know to anticipate price fluctuations before making a purchase, which builds increased pressure on price flexibility. Also, with green issues high on the agenda, retailers need to rethink how products are moved, especially with the demand for fast fashion not showing any sign of slowing down. Nearshore

VICKY BROCK, CEO OF CLEAR RETURNS, DISCUSSED HOW RETAILERS AND BRANDS CAN BEST REDUCE RETURNS.

production could be the answer to lowering risk, cutting lead times, and freight and compliance costs could be brought down providing better control for managing volatility. “Outsourcing is high risk but this may be lowered through contract, compliance and giving control to a vertical supply chain,” concluded Hines. Picking up on the trend of consumer power was Jamie Murray Wells, industry head of retail at Google UK, who spoke of the “ability and need to embrace change” and how established businesses struggling to do so will disappear from consumer consciousness. The industry must respond to the realisation that power is literally in the hands of consumers and that mobile technology is required to keep pace with the current trends and habits of shoppers. Global IP bandwidth is set to increase twelvefold by 2020, and access to the internet will be everywhere, giving retailers more opportunities to converse with customers. Common grievances of in-store and online shopping could be improved by enhancing the traditional bricksand-mortar shopping experience with virtual shopping elements and vice versa. Using a mobile device in-store to scan a QR code on a swing ticket and then being directed to a designated dressing room to find said product waiting could soon become the norm. Another global trend is the strength of social media turning regular “civilians” into powerful industry influencers. Innovation hubs are no longer predominantly the realm for pure play as the high street is now following suit; this reflects just how incredibly fast the world is moving. Finally, Leonie Barrie, MD at just-style.com, and the event media sponsor, took to the stage to summarise the thoughts and ideas presented. She noted that the common thread heard throughout the day was that change is inevitable, and observed, “Although it’s not possible to predict the future, it is possible to prepare. Change will bring huge obstacles for retail and sourcing, but what a great driving force this will be for the industry to rise to the challenge and create differentiation between the competition. Whatever the future holds, it is clear that supply chain collaboration and listening to the customer along with the assistance of technology and logistics will allow a greater chance at hitting the target on the ever-changing horizon.”

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DECEMBER 2014 | INTERVIEW | 18

INTERVIEW

MARK BATISTA Agency boss, trade show creator and retailer Mark Batista knows a thing or two about the menswear business. He’s also recently opened a multi-brand selling collaboration store with Edwin, called Content & Co on London’s seemingly untapped Exmouth Market. Tom Bottomley gets the low down. — Tom Bottomley: The Content Store is your own multi-brand shop, so why did you decide to go into a collaboration with a brand for a second shop called Content & Co? Mark Batista: I was actually looking for a London standalone flagship store for Sandqvist, the Swedish brand I carry in the UK through Brand Progression. We were looking at secondary areas, where it’s still possible to get a good deal in terms of rent. A bit like when I opened The Content Store on Lambs Conduit Street in March 2013, and also with Number Six when I opened it in 2008 on Brick Lane – a business I’ve since sold. It’s not about me trying to be clever about where to open, it’s about going where we can afford the rent. A collaboration shop with Edwin was something I’d had a conversation about a while ago with Rey Gaultier, who heads up Edwin Europe and is a long-time business associate and friend. It just so happened that the timing was right for it to happen when I found the unit, a former book shop, on Exmouth Market. — TB: What attracted you to the area? MB: I bumped into Charlie Warren, Edwin’s UK sales director, and he really liked the feel of the area, as did I, with plenty of good places to eat, drink and hang out – always a good early sign that an area is up-and-coming and there’s a reason to go there. But there was nothing really in the way of a decent menswear shop. Price is also obviously a key factor when an area is seemingly untapped. And with it not saturated with brands or other independents, it means

FOUNDER CONTENT AND CO

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you can make it a real destination, and be able to get the brands you want because they are not already there. We agreed that it would mostly be an Edwin store, but run by Content and selling other brands as well – doing exclusives and trying new brands out. Edwin probably represents around 45 per cent of the offer. In a lot of ways it’s quite an experimental store. Shoreditch is more like a battlefield now in terms of being able to get the brands you want, such is the competition from shops with a similar aesthetic and target market. You need to be quick off the mark to secure the brands, so it makes sense to look elsewhere. — TB: Having in many ways pioneered to move all things directional menswear to Shoreditch, what do you think of it now? MB: I sold my Number Six business to the shop’s web designer, Jake Hardy, in September 2013, and he continues to make a good job of it. If I’m really honest, I’d had it with Shoreditch. I’d been there since around 2000 with the Brand Progression agency office and showroom, and it was always a really scummy area. It still is a really scummy area, except now it’s £50 per sq ft. We used to pay £8 per sq ft. There were “ladies of the night” and heroin addicts on the streets, and rubbish chucked everywhere, but it was really good because we were paying next to nothing! Even with retail, when I opened Number Six it was only around £15 per sq ft for the Truman Brewery unit – 10-12 years later it’s now treble that, and Spitalfields is even more. But there’s also a different person who shops there now. People who lived in London would go to Spitalfields, but now it’s all tourists and youngsters because they think it’s the cool place to be. It’s on every tour guide, whereas back then I think they advised people not to go there. These days I just want to get out of there as quickly as possible. I don’t feel any inspiration from the place or the people there anymore. Big highstreet chains are also driving the rents insane, and changing the landscape and feel of it. — TB: How is the new shop at Exmouth Market performing? MB: There was obviously an uncertainty about whether it was the right thing to do – and

DECEMBER 2014 | INTERVIEW | 19

the area – but we decided to give it a go. It’s all over it with PoS. It’s just done in a subtle, been phenomenal so far since we opened on understated and cool way. 1 September – way beyond any initial expectation. — There are a lot of creative agencies around there, TB: What happened to To Be Confirmed, and which obviously fits our customer profile, and how did launching Jacket Required come about? there’s a decent weekend crowd there, too, that MB: After six years, and taking it to New York comes over from Angel and surrounding areas to and Tokyo as well as really smashing it in London, eat, drink and shop. The people are receptive to by 2007 To be Confirmed had run its course good product, and there’s just a really good feeling and we sold it. It only lasted a season or two after to the area. In the fourth week, we even had a better that. I vowed I wouldn’t set up and run another week than the Lambs Conduit Street shop, and trade show, but there wasn’t anything in London it was a good week there, too. Exmouth Market that had any real impact, so Jacket Required was is busier at weekends, whereas on Lambs born out of that. I got together with Craig Ford Conduit Street the business is mainly done and his brands from his A Number of Names agency. Andrew Parfitt, who sold Andersons during the week. belts, was also briefly involved at the start, but — TB: What brands are doing well for you in was bought out early on when we sold the show to ITE Moda – good people to work with – and Content & Co? MB: Edwin has been the number one brand every that’s why Craig and I are still very much involved week since we opened – which you would expect with the show, which continues to grow. It’s still because, outside of its shop on Charlotte Road very much about keeping the appeal of more in Shoreditch, we’ve probably got the largest niche brands, along with introducing some more selection of Edwin in the country. Brands such commercial elements. Getting the balance right as Our Legacy, Barena and Red Wing are also is the key. performing very well. Price points don’t seem — to be an issue. Other brands we’re carrying TB: What brands are proving good for include Oliver Spencer, Alden, Barbour, Mismo Brand Progression? and Nike – so it’s a real mix. We can’t sell any MB: As far as product and great people to deal other denim brands in Content & Co – that’s with, Sandqvist from Stockholm is phenomenal. part of the deal – though we are bringing in In terms of its success in the UK, a lot of it is some Carhartt that I’ve never stocked before, down to how Liberty presents it. The guys from so it will be interesting to see what the reaction Suit in Copenhagen are also great, and in terms is. Aspesi is another brand we’re bringing in. We of price point and margin in relation to look and want to give a point of difference to the Lambs quality, it’s a strong brand. I only want to work with Conduit Street shop and a reason to go to people I really like. I’ve had a few that have been a nightmare to deal with. Fracap is another brand Exmouth Market. doing well for me, as is La Paz from Portugal – — TB: It’s early days, but is it something that could again two really nice guys to deal with. We’ve just taken on Tuk Tuk, which has had a great response, be replicated if it works out well? MB: I have ideas of where else it might work, and and Lee 101 continues to perform well. We are we have the option to go and do further stores launching an Australian brand called Handsom for a/w 15, and also working with with Edwin. But it’s also about securing the right brands to “Price is also obviously Teva sandals, as well as Kaibosh sunglasses from Norway. sit alongside. For us, there’s a key factor when Portuguese Flannel is another certainly the possibility of doing new one for us, and I think it has other Content & Co stores in an area is seemingly the potential to be huge. I’m half different pockets of London untapped. And Portuguese, so it’s also quite where it is non-conflicting. nice having two Portuguese Though Edwin may have a with it not already brands in the stable. My dad healthy representation in the being saturated would have been proud. shop, the name is not splashed

with brands or other independents, it means you can make it a real destination”

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DECEMBER 2014 | GENT | CONTENTS | 21

G E N T

THE STYLE FACTOR With British design talent at the helm of the brand, it’s clear to see why eponymous shoe label Justin Reece has experienced such growth since its inception. Born in the heart of London, Reece combines traditional silhouettes and adds unique twists to create the brand’s core DNA. The label’s footwear offer, which retails between £75 and £120, is vast, ranging from Reece’s signature brogues in an array of colours through to tasselled loafers in leather and suede. Buyers can also expect to see formal variations, eight options in Chukka boots and the addition of Goodyear welted boots and shoes. Also for s/s 15, the collection will welcome the introduction of driving mocs, deck shoes and brogue leather trainers in a variety of bold colourways. www.justinreece.co.uk —

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock Familiar pattern

Pitti Uomo Six of the key brands to catch for a/w 15

Panorama The latest developments from the Berlin show

Hat’s the way to do it Heritage label Goorin Brothers

London Collections: Men The capital’s finest menswear talent

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DECEMBER 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 22

RADAR

PRODUCT NEWS

Spotlighting style

Inside menswear

DIRECT TO YOUR FRONT DOOR

OLOW ESTABLISHED: 2006 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Advocating a simple lifestyle, OLOW promotes handmade crafts in-keeping with its ethical values and surreal designs. — HISTORY: Founders Mathieu Sorosina and Valentin Porcher created T-shirts with the brand’s artistic prints – the aim being to make art accessible to all. French clothing label OLOW bases its surreal designs around themes of art, poetry and the simple lifestyle. Maintaining an appreciation of handmade craft, the brand typically attracts customers with a love of art and alternative design. Collection inspiration is drawn through personal experiences of travel and everyday life, and is brought together by the label’s illustrator and artist. The brand manufactures all garments in Portugal with an aim to keep production as local as possible, endorsing fair salaries and working conditions for employees. Working with a varied selection of artists, mostly unknown international talent, the brand also organises regular exhibitions showcasing the work of independents in the industry. Currently the brand does not have a standalone store, but is distributed through retailers in the UK, France, Hong Kong, Moscow and New York. Wholesale prices average at €40 for T-shirts, €80 for sweats and €265 for jackets. —

Established in 2013, The London Sock Company is an innovative subscription service founded by business partners Ryan Palmer and Dave Pickard, enabling men to have a once-a-month delivery of socks, direct to their door. Focusing on premium-quality fabrics and trend-led colourways, the brand takes its inspiration from Sir Hardy Amies, who once said, “A man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them.” With fans including model David Gandy and the growth for subscription deliveries growing rapidly, The London Sock Company is a brand to watch moving into the New Year. —

SOPHISTICATION MEETS OLD-SCHOOL CHARM For the coming season, The British Belt Company presents the Langdale collection – a range of practical and contemporary bags. Utilising iconic British fabrics such as the Halley Stevenson 18oz waxed twill canvas, buyers can expect to find a mature palette of dark port, alpine green and golden oak across the range of weekenders, satchels, rucksacks, wash bags and hip flasks. —

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DECEMBER 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 23

ON TREND Seasonal extras: Rucksacks

THE LAST KING OF CUMBRIA Inspired by the last King of Cumbria, Chapman Bags presents its latest collection, Dunmail, made from British-dyed and woven military grade Cordura. Styles feature a unique toggle fastening, which draws influence from a traditional fishing float, made from turned and waxed domestic ash, finished with marine quality paint. The authentically British quality of the bags is further enhanced by using bespoke brass fittings cast in Walsall, including a classic 4-bar slide strap adjuster for the rucksack, British woven shock cord and British woven military grade cotton webbing. —

1: ALPHA BRAVO price on request 020 8731 3500 2: HEMSLEY LONDON £270 020 3539 4732 3: SANDQIST price on request 020 3411 7341 4: LEATHER SATCHEL CO £51.33 0151 489 9281 5: ZATCHELS £57.40 07766 883668

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

NEWS

DOBSON Sourcing the majority of its fabrics from British mills, Dobson champions British design through its collections and ethos. Boxy cuts and straight hems create an overall clean and layered look straight from the 50s, with garments featuring a woven fabric selvedge with the words Savile Row and Luxury Wool found on cuffs and plackets. Collections are a culmination of Dobson’s love of casual utility garments and formal menswear fabrics. For the label’s second season, s/s 15, the range of wool-over shirts and work jackets will be extended to include other natural fibre fabrics. The new collection will also see the addition of cotton shirts. Stand-out pieces include Style 1.1, a lightweight shirt with two patch pockets available in wool or cotton, and Style 5, a cropped jacket available in wool and linen check that channels the classic rebel look. Such as the brand’s previous collection, wool serves as a fabric staple, with praise given to its versatile nature, durability and sustainability.

ESTABLISHED: 2013 — SIGNATURE STYLE: REFINED WORKWEAR CUT FROM LUXURY BRITISH SUITING FABRIC, CREATING GARMENTS FIT FOR CONTEMPORARY ENGINEERS AND PIONEERS. — HISTORY: FOUNDER AND DESIGNER NINA DOBSON CREATED THE LABEL AFTER GAINING A DECADE OF EXPERIENCE LEADING DESIGN TEAMS FOR INTERNATIONAL LUXURY BRANDS.

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DECEMBER 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 24

PANTHERELLA £5.25 0116 283 1111

BARBOUR 0800 009 988 £131.60

DOUBLE TWO FROM £13.99 01924 375651

SKOPES £16.50 0113 240 2211

DRAKES £76 020 7608 0321

ATELIER SCOTCH £158.50 020 3137 3901

6TH SENSE £18 020 3432 6387

FAMILIAR PATTERN Despite checked suiting trending for the past two seasons, it still continues to reign in a/w 14. Prince of Wales checks sit next to oversized squares, while tartan is updated in a colour palette of grey, blue and taupe. —

PRETTY GREEN PRICE ON REQUEST 07903 255298

ANTONY MORATO £54.50 020 7739 8560

CAMEL ACTIVE £34 0161 234 0999

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DECEMBER 2014 | PREVIEW | PITTI UOMO | 26

PITTI UOMO It is the 87th edition of Pitti Uomo on 13-16 January 2015, and there’s plenty to get the buying juices flowing, including the opening of a new area called Archivi in the Fortezza da Basso – this edition dedicated to made in the US products and brands. Tom Bottomley picks six of the key brands to catch in Florence. —

CLEMENTS RIBEIRO X STARTER BLACK LABEL One from left field perhaps, and a one-off collaboration apparently, too, but interesting all the same for a more street feel than your usual Pitti offering. There was a star-studded launch party at the Ace Hotel in Shoreditch recently – with London fashion house supremos Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro very much in the spotlight, along with streetwear brand Starter’s UK licensee CEO Angela Farrugia. Product-wise there are three snapback caps and five pieces of apparel that make up this unisex offering, including basketball shorts and a satin bomber jacket – in signature Starter silhouette. Designer meets street, for a whole new Pitti beat. —

GLOVERALL

WOOLRICH

The heritage English brand famous for its duffle coat is set to bring us the all-new “51” collection at Pitti – a collection “celebrating Gloverall’s sporting history.” It’s inspired by the wonderful black-and-white photographs from the early days of the Grand Prix, with Tony Brooks sporting a Monty duffle coat photographed alongside Stirling Moss and Mike Hawthorn in between racing cars at the The Monaco Grand Prix in 1957. Collection details have been taken from what other men and women were wearing while watching and attending the races, encompassing a full product offer all manufactured in England. British fabrics are also prominent in the collection, with Harris Tweeds, cotton wax fabrics from Halley Stevensons and bonded cottons from British Millerain. There are also touches of Italian melton wool and water and wind resistant technical cloths. There are duffles, macs, car coats, tailored sports blazers, bomber jackets, quilted “rally” jackets and padded parkas. This is one to look forward to seeing first hand. —

Highlights for this other big outerwear player for a/w 15 include the reintroduction of Teton, a label from the 70s that identified the brand’s more performance-led collection. The Teton Urban Performance Parka (pictured) is one to look out for, as is the patterned Byrd Cloth parka and the Loro Piana “storm system” fabric. Woolrich’s Authentic collection is inspired by the brand’s rich archive, with hunting checks, buffalo checks and rich American wools, ripe once again for today’s market. There’s also the Arctic parka and the Aleutian vest, so get ready for those hunting, shooting and fishing days out once again. For more performancedriven garments there are also new laminated nylon and lightweight fabrics on jackets with mechanical stretch, Polartec, 620 fill Power duck down in original square pattern, and finished with top-quality coyote fur. We may all be howling for more. —

Getty Images / Klementaski Collection

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DECEMBER 2014 | PREVIEW | PITTI UOMO | 27

ALAN PAINE

ATELIER SCOTCH

CHAPMAN

Another Brit brand to feature (well we always put in a good showing at Pitti, let’s face it), Alan Paine is also drawing on its intriguing heritage for a/w 15. And in a poignant move, George Mallory’s grandson will be the brand’s campaign model for the popular English Explorer collection, a range that continues to take inspiration from the clothing worn by Mallory and the rest of the team on their ill-fated Mount Everest climb. The collection sees the reintroduction of a Merino Teflon yarn, a new blended lambswool melange range – featuring a chunky cable roll collar, and sporty button mock neck cardigans. There’s even outerwear featuring a Tweed waterproof jacket, gilets, and dry wax complemented by wovens in twill and brushed cotton, all reminiscent of a bygone era. The brand is also launching a new trim-fit capsule range in its greatly extended Merino collection. And there are more colours than you can poke a tent pole at. —

Scotch & Soda is bringing three collections to Pitti Uomo for the first time – its Scotch & Soda mainline, Maison Scotch womenswear, and its top-end, eclectic tailoring line Atelier Scotch, in its own area. It’s a collection gaining prowess and momentum with every new season. Sophisticated tech fabrics combine with elements of heritage and vintage to give a distinct look and feel. Suiting plays with a mix of materials, such as a black smoking jacket with a cotton lapel for a more relaxed look. A/w 15’s new shirts feature bold patterns including checks, florals and a new seasonal motif, the dragonfly, which features in jacquards, prints and embroideries. There are also skinny and slim-fitting silhouettes on tailoring, and classic winter fabrics such as wool mohair, cashmere and flannel mixed with technical nylons for a shiny contrast. Interestingly, there will also be a separate space presenting a shop-in-shop concept. Clearly going for the big sell, and why not? —

A label with a lot to shout about – a rebranding with new logo no less, new website launch (www.chapmanbags.com), its bespoke bag offering now online, expansion of its UK factory and, yes, an all-new menswear bag range. Contemporary styles feature high-quality Italian nylon, and there are fresh additions for business and travel, laptop bags, folios, a tote, holdall and small cross-body design. The new Chapman brand identity draws on its origins as a field sports company, deeply rooted in the Borders community. The logo features two crossed fishing hooks, a reference to the label’s historical association with the manufacture of fishing bags and accessories. The new branding also features stunning landscape photography of the Borders region in which Chapman is based, focusing on the 2,000 year monument of Hadrian’s Wall, which runs the whole width of the Borders from coast to coast. Every Chapman bag is still manufactured at the company’s factory in Carlisle, Cumbria, using traditional handcrafted techniques. So it’s very much a case of old meets new at Chapman, and there’s still talk of a London flagship shop going forward in the hopefully not-too-distant future. —

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DECEMBER 2014 | PROMOTION | 28

PITTI UOMO 13-16 JANUARY 2015, FORTEZZA DA BASSO

Menswear’s key international trade event Pitti Uomo will showcase a comprehensive blend of tailoring, streetwear, footwear and accessories at its 87th edition. From new classics to cutting edge design, Florence is set to be the hub of sartorial substance. —

Pitti Uomo 87, the leading international platform for menswear, is set to bring together the very best in formal, contemporary, directional and fledging apparel, footwear and accessories for its a/w 15 edition. The Italian trade fair is renowned for being a global platform for key fashion labels that choose Florence as the stage to launch new projects, as well as little-known names that see Pitti Uomo as the ideal context to establish their identity and generate business. Welcoming around 1,090 brands to the forthcoming January exhibition – plus 70 womenswear collections at Pitti W – there are expected to be over 30,000 visitors walking through the gates of the Fortezza da Basso, representing the leading buyers across the global retail landscape. As always, Pitti Uomo channels its creativity through its seasonal theme, and for a/w 15 Walkabout Pitti will explore the infinite dimension of travelling on foot, with a set designed by artist Oliviero Baldini. The January edition of Pitti Uomo will also mark the opening of Archivi – an area for unique projects, with this season seeing the launch of Born in the USA. With two adjacent spaces measuring a total of 800 sq m, the area has been designed as part of a joint partnership with American trade exhibition Liberty Fairs. With Born in the USA by Liberty Fairs, the two shows will bring together over 20 of the best born-and-made in the US brands, ranging from Filson to Red Wing to Perfecto by Schott. Meanwhile, in co-operation with the Ministry on Industry and Trade of the Russian Federation, this edition’s Guest Nation at this season’s Pitti Uomo will be Russia, a country that has distinguished itself in fashion research during the past few seasons. Menswear designers presenting their latest collections will include 075, Infundibulum and Pirosmani. Finally, another focus for the trade fair is a new project in collaboration with Business Sweden, which will showcase a special selection of Swedish fashion brands. Among the names confirmed to participate are Army of Me, Bread & Boxers, Nor Autonom, The Case of Factory and Whyred. Certainly a show not to be missed. —

GUEST DESIGNER: MARNI An exciting addition to the a/w 15 showcase is the appointment of Marni as menswear guest designer. Having recently celebrated its 20th anniversary at the creative helm of Consuelo Castiglioni, Pitti Uomo will once again welcome one of the world’s leading names in fashion. PITTI SPECIAL GUEST: HOOD BY AIR New York brand Hood by Air, created by Shayne Oliver in 2006, will be the Pitti Special Guest in January. Admired by members of the trade for its highly creative collections, Hood by Air will produce a special event during the show. WHO IS ON NEXT? UOMO 2015 T.Lipop and Alberto Premi Design, the winners of the Who is on Next? Uomo 2014, will present their a/w 15 collections to Pitti Uomo’s international audience in a dedicated performance. PITTI UOMO 87 DESIGNER PROJECT Andrea Incontri will present the premiere of his a/w 15 collection, with a fashion show in Palazzo Corsini. CLOAKROOM Fondazione Pitti Discovery presents Cloakroom, an original mise en scéne written and directed by Olivier Saillard and played by model, contemporary actress and muse Tilda Swinton. —

PITTISMART APP Pitti Uomo 87 unveils its latest digital development this edition with the launch of the PittiSmart app – the new app dedicated to Pitti Immagine fairs and events, which is free to download from the Apple store and the Google Play store. Buyers and journalists who download the app can access a series of services and information directly from their smartphone and tablet, making their experience of the eight Pitti Immagine fairs even easier. With PittiSmart, users will have access to news, the calendar of events, a media gallery of all events, a complete list of exhibitors, a map of each fair and fair style notes with information about the latest ideas and trends displayed.

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DECEMBER 2014 | PREVIEW | PANORAMA | 30

PANORAMA Preparing for its biggest line-up to date, mainstream fashion exhibition Panorama is welcoming over 80 new additions to its brand portfolio, spanning both domestic and international menswear, footwear, accessories and womenswear labels. MWB takes a look at some of the key names to catch, as well as the latest news and developments from the Berlin exhibition. —

19-21 JANUARY 2015 BERLIN EXPOCENTER CITY, JAFFESTRAßE/EINGANG SÜD, 14055 BERLIN

LECTURES With an extended seminar programme for a/w 15, the show will for the first time offer simultaneous translation in English. Admission is free of charge and the full programme can be seen on the Panorama website. For the new season, the lectures will be held in a separate area in Hall 7C.

PURPLE LABEL BY BENVENUTO

VENTI

The younger, more fashion-focused sister label to Benvenuto, Purple Label presents tailored separates and casual wardrobe additions to create a relaxed-formal hybrid for the new season. —

Designed for the younger, more trend-led shopper, shirt specialist Venti continues its drive to expand across both its domestic German and European markets. —

VISITOR TICKETS WITH RFID TECHNOLOGY Visitors have the opportunity to quickly and efficiently discover a detailed overview of the collections of each brand at the show. With a simple swipe at the data column at the booth of each brand, the visitor receives all requested information, from company contacts to lookbooks and special features such as collection video clips, NOS programmes and much more. EXTENDED SERVICES Apart from the usual Panorama Berlin services such as airport transfer, shuttle service and luggage check-in, exhibition organisers now offer the possibility to directly book hotel rooms, airline and train tickets, as well as restaurant reservations and more via the show’s new booking line – 0049 30275956033. APP This season a new app for the show will be available, and will be compatible with all formats across iOS and Android. NOW NOW, the area for short and flash order collections, has extended due to demand, and will now span across Hall 7A and B.

MOVE BY DIGEL

CASUAL FRIDAY

An independent collection presented by German menswear label Digel, Move by Digel is a younger, urban take on formal dressing, with minimalistic design and slimline cuts. —

Under Danish group DK Company, Casual Friday enters its third season, following on from sister label Blend to offer a more tailored approach to weekendwear. Expect slim-fit denims, Breton tees and chunky knits. —

OPTIMISATION OF SPACE AND ROUTES Through effective space management, optimised running paths, the integration of The Mall and the removal of the main catering areas, Panorama has gained additional space for exhibitors. The extended catering and lounge areas are now located in the central axis between the halls, and offer an ideal seating and networking area. In addition, the catering area now connects the individual halls together, so that the visitors can efficiently manoeuvre through the halls.

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DECEMBER 2014 | PROFILE | GOORIN BROS | 32

HAT’S THE WAY TO DO IT Heritage American hat brand Goorin Bros is seeing a surge of interest in its headwear, and Neat Distribution is aiming to drive sales to new heights in the UK – with celebrity hat wearers having a major influence on a new-found younger customer base that now see hats as an all-important style accessory. Tom Bottomley talks “titfers” with Neat’s owner, Terry Pearman. —

It’s been over two years since Terry Pearman decided to give Goorin Bros hats a go for the UK market – accessories were not an area he’d really ventured into before in his long time in the business, which has included heading up UK sales for brands including Pepe Jeans and Firetrap. So it was certainly a punt of a new nature, but one he seems to be enjoying now things are starting to motor at his Neat Distribution company. “We have been selling Goorin for two years now, and in the last two seasons’ growth has doubled from the previous season,” he says. There is a trend for hats, as more and more celebrities are seen wearing them. The accounts we are now selling to are premium menswear independents, online hat sites and Asos.” Pearman originally got the “heads up” on the brand, so to speak, from a friend of his who sells it Los Angeles. The agent for Goorin Bros for the West Coast of America, actually. “He told me I should have a go with it because they were planning to exhibit for the first time at Bread & Butter. I subsequently called the brand’s sales

director and loosely agreed distribution for the UK, Ireland and Benelux, which was then cemented at the trade show in Berlin.” Pearman has not looked back since. It started off very slowly, just picking up a few independents, as well as quite a few onlineonly independent web stores specialising in hats. And he also had an account list from the previous distributor who was based in Spain – but who had the whole of Europe. “I don’t think they were getting the right level of penetration, because they weren’t acting locally,” he says. For the third season, Pearman brought Doug Thomas on board as an agent. Thomas has been selling Jeffery West shoes for some 22 years. “He’s well connected with the medium to premium end of the market, and his first season with it, for a/w 13, really gave us the launch pad to start growing it much more.” That season Asos came on board as a stockist. Apparently the order came late for the season, but Goorin happily accommodated it. For s/s 14, sales were steady, and for a/w 14 they more than doubled business compared to a/w 13. “And

s/s 15 orders again more than doubled on s/s 14,” Pearman says, “We’re now in some really good accounts, and they appreciate the product. It is good quality, but the price points are attractive to retailers, too.” There are two ranges – the main Goorin Bros line, which is made in Asia, retailing at £25-£40, and an American Made by Goorin Bros collection, which is made in LA and retails for around £100. “We were planning to launch it for s/s 15,” says Pearman. “But the samples arrived late and we ran out of time. So we will definitely be launching that for a/w 15 in some good top-end accounts that fit the right profile. They’ll be leather baker boy caps, Harris Tweed fedoras and so on in classic shapes, but the distinction will be the fabrics and made in USA element.” Perhaps not realised by many, Goorin Bros has 32 stores across America. The vintage-look décor of the shops give an impression that you are indeed dealing with a true heritage American brand, of which there are not too many left. Founder Cassel Goorin sold his first hat off a horse cart on the cobblestone streets

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of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, in 1895. The rest, as they say, is history, but with all the new-found interest in “homemade” product, it’s a nice touch that the company has embraced the American Made by Goorin Bros line – despite the more mass-produced mainline, of course, responsible for the real money making. Albeit with the quality still being of utmost importance. “It’s certainly one of the oldest hat manufacturers in the US,” says Pearman. “Its main competitor would be Stetson, but we consider this to be a bit ‘younger’ in appeal. It’s mainly men’s. In fact I’d say there’s only around 10 per cent of the styles that are specifically for women, but a lot of women buy the men’s styles in smaller sizes. It’s like when you see the likes of singer/songwriter Cerys Matthews always in a trilby-style hat.” Pearman says the brand is probably better skewed for a/w, though he does cite the s/s straw fedoras and pork-pie hats as now proving a big hit and “getting more interesting.” However, the main business at the moment is on caps, particularly the baker boy style. “The plan for a/w 15 is to be more aggressive in targeting sales in the North of England, Scotland and Ireland. We also do carry a certain amount of stock of key styles – which really helps with speedy replenishment, and also picking up new accounts in season.” Indeed, around 20 per cent of forward orders also have a stock service to aid in-season repeat orders. In terms of wholesale prices, Pearman says the majority of their sales are in the

DECEMBER 2014 | PROFILE | GOORIN BROS | 33

£8-£16 category, predominantly on flat cap and trilby styles. The higher-end made in USA range will also be a good tool for PR purposes to help the brand’s UK growth. “There are more and more celebrities wearing Goorin hats, such as Jay-Z and Denzel Washington – which will play a major part in raising the brand’s profile. We’ve had Rudimental on the phone enquiring about our hats recently, and once we have the higher-end line in the UK the likes of other artists of similar ilk will certainly be on our radar.” Pearman believes that, in general, men are getting braver in what they wear, and hats are increasingly becoming a must-have accessory to give a more individual look to an outfit. “You can go back in time and look at old photographs and movies and everyone in them is wearing a hat,” he says. “Of course, that hasn’t been the case for a number of years, with people seeing them more as a function rather than a fashion item. But the kids, and indeed older people, are understanding that it is quite a stylish thing to wear, and importantly they are feeling more comfortable wearing hats again. In many ways, it’s as important as a hair style. I think that’s really coming through and it will just build and build. Goorin is certainly seeing the growth, and it’s filtering down to more people, as opposed to just the style leaders.” So, for Pearman, if you want to get ahead, get Goorin Bros hats.

GOORIN BROS BRAND HISTORY The Goorin Bros hat-making tradition began on the cobblestone streets of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, when founder Cassel Goorin sold his first hat off a horse cart in 1895. In the 20s, Cassel’s sons, Alfred and Ted Goorin, helped their father expand the business. Learning the trade from their father, Alfred and Ted were the original Goorin Brothers. War prosperity fuelled demand for sport and leisure hat styles in the 40s. Outdoor leisure was incorporated into their new sporting line, designed to accommodate the hunter, fisherman, and camper alike. In 1949, Alfred moved the company’s headquarters to downtown Mission Street in San Francisco’s thriving business hub. By the 60s, formal hats were no longer the norm for day-to-day life. In order to survive, the company turned to the ski industry and became the official headwear company for the Olympic Games – held in Squaw Valley in 1960. During the 70s, Alfred Goorin Jr, Cassel’s grandson, took over the family business. Alfred and his wife Glorianne expanded their foothold in the ski business and added winter accessories to their successful line of headwear. This included gloves, mittens, socks and other sportswear. In the early 90s, Ben Goorin, now the fourth generation of family hatters, entered the business. The rise in popularity of quality-made baseball caps and beanies, spurred by underground streetwear, made Goorin Bros relevant for the fast-developing skateboard and snowboard industry. While staying true to the company’s authenticity and craftsmanship, Ben Goorin reaches out into San Francisco’s rich artistic community and continues to develop creative headwear alongside traditional hats like the fedora, ivy, and cadet caps. The legacy of Goorin Bros is one that follows a timeless approach to the art of hat making. —

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DECEMBER 2014 | PEOPLE | LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | 34

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN Bringing together the finest talent in British men’s fashion, London Collections: Men kicks off the a/w 15 buying calendar with a host of catwalks, static presentations and events taking place across the capital on 9-12 January 2015. —

OLIVER SPENCER Oliver Spencer, founder “It’s been a very positive year for Oliver Spencer as a brand. We’ve opened one new retail store and a pop-up shop in Tokyo. Our retail business has grown, our online business has grown and our wholesale business has grown – the challenge has been wholesale outside of London. In terms of the a/w 15 collection, I don’t unveil this before the show, however you can be assured that the influence will come from an artist or architecture. The colour palette will be quite dark and autumnal with blocks of bright colour. Buyers can expect to see a great Alpaca Grandpa coat and a series of scotch grain leather bags.” —

RICHARD JAMES Sean Dixon, managing director “This past year has seen Richard James complete the extensive refurbishment of our flagship store on Savile Row, as well as the opening of a new store in the City. Our most recent challenge, however, has been replicating the experience customers receive in our stores when using our online store. After several attempts, we finally feel like we have achieved this and the traffic and sales have increased significantly. For the sixth season of LC:M, we are holding a catwalk show. Despite the hard work and cost involved, we feel it’s helped the brand evolve and buyers and press to think of us in a different way. It also helps to focus the design direction and creativity that we need to progress. For the new season you’ll see soft warm tailoring and some very sharp, intensely coloured prints and accessories. I particularly like the Pioneer jacket.” —

HACKETT Jeremy Hackett, founder “This year has been a really positive year for Hackett, with the opening of new stores in Beijing, Shanghai, Lisbon and London. Wholesale expansion has continued through the year with further openings with franchise partners in France, the Middle East, India, China and South America. Our turnover increased 9.5 per cent compared to 2013. This season at LC:M, we’re hosting an exclusive dinner with a twist to showcase my 12 piece a/w 15 capsule collection. I wanted to revisit a concept we trialled a few years ago; mixing different tweeds and flannels to create one-off pieces. I particularly felt this would be fitting for the new season as it complements the special element of the dinner, which I cannot wait to reveal in January.” —

CHESTER BARRIE Chris Scott Gray, head of sales “I’m looking forward to seeing some great designers this season at LC:M including Richard James, our Savile Row close neighbours and, of course, business partners (Chester Barrie currently holds the licence for Richard James Mayfair). Lou Dalton is another designer I’d like to catch because she is so talented, as is Christopher Raeburn. In terms of what Chester Barrie is presenting for a/w 15, we’ve been looking at the clothing of Beau Brummel, an iconic figure in Regency England, and his attitude to dressing – the importance of well-cut cloths, excellent grooming, complementary colours and a simplicity of an outfit. Relating this to contemporary times, his philosophy is still relevant.” —

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DECEMBER 2014 | PEOPLE | LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | 35

EDE & RAVENSCROFT Michael McGrath, head of design “For a/w 15, outerwear is a real focus for us, with Melton compact wool filtering through the collection. Jackets and waistcoats will feature Ede & Ravenscroft’s signature sartorial detailing, drawing on our deep-rooted tailoring heritage. Texture continues to be really important this season, with a focus on English-inspired fabrics such as herringbone, Prince of Wales check and Donegal tweed. The use of sub-yarns provides hints of warmer tones. Colours will include saturated tones, such as rich browns, hunter greens, beep burgundy, soft caramels and dark navy, interspersed with metallic accents like steel. In terms of inspiration, we’ve taken a journey back in time, taking influences from the Edwardian man. I’ve used a loose interpretation to create a signature collection for the forward-thinking gentleman who understands the traditional yet updated style and quality synonymous with Ede & Ravenscroft.” —

JOHN SMEDLEY Jess McGuire-Dudley, head of marketing and merchandising “The a/w 15 collection is inspired by a local Derbyshire storie – Blue John. Semi-precious, this stone produces the most intense blue shades, combined with deep purples and gold tinges. Our signature knit, Lithic, is sure to be a stand-out piece, featuring the Blue John jacquard knit, alongside our Oxland jacket, which pioneers new tailoring techniques within our knitwear, as well as the Tailing shirt, which features a full-length button-down front and abstract plaid print in Inca gold. From a brand perspective, key seasonal shows like LC:M continue to be an important way for us to reach new buyers and raise our profile.” —

CMMN SWEDEN Emma Hedlund and Saif Bakir, co-founders “We were honoured to receive the Newgen Men sponsorship by the BFC last year and debut at LC:M with our a/w 14 collection in January. The exposure we received during the event has been great and very important in the growth of the brand. This season will see the fine line between streetwear and high-end fashion blurring, and elements from both these worlds are always visible in our collections. It’s a juxtaposition of future sport and sartorial classic – the classic world of Armani, but set in Manchester, if you like. We are known for our strong outerwear, so you can expect to see some heavy coats, tailored pieces and engineered garments with a nod towards the biggest thing in Manchester – football.” —

HENTSCH MAN Alexia Hentsch, founder “Despite the fact that it’s a winter collection and should be more sombre, there are still some Hentsch Man brights to look forward to at our a/w 15 presentation. The three main colours in the palette are cadmium red, evergreen and electric blue. Key pieces include long, de-constructed coats, oversized cable knits and baggy trousers. Everything is a little bigger this season – I think things are generally moving in that direction. I draw so much inspiration from contemporaries – I’m always so impressed with how creative the London design scene is.” —

LOUIS LEEMAN Louis Leeman and Erica Pelosini, co-founders “Over 2014 we’ve seen an important increase in terms of stockist numbers, including the introduction of some key iconic names such as Harrods and Selfridges. Most importantly, we started to work on the opening of the first Louis Leeman flagship store on Madison Avenue, New York, which will be opening in early 2015. The new collection, which will be showcased in an installation presentation at LC:M, is inspired by the naval world. There will be key tones such as gunmetal grey, navy blue and Breton stripe details, drawing on the collection’s inspiration. We have further developed the formal styles such as the slippers and penny loafers, whilst also creating some new trainer styles.” —

A.SAUVAGE Adrien Sauvage, founder “This coming season at LC:M we’ll be doing a static presentation. After two seasons of catwalk shows, I want to approach the presentation of a collection from a different perspective. You’ll see me making more of a return to the kind of items that I started out producing – tailoring and timeless staples. Inspiration for the a/w 15 collection was taken from my Ghanaian heritage. We have approached this season from a more subdued perspective and have used much richer, darker tones throughout the range.” —

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DECEMBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 37

D E N I M

S T R E E T

FEEL THE ENERGIE Returning to UK shores after a two-year hiatus, denim label Energie will enter a/w 15 under the helm of Present Day Studios. Split into three categories – Outside, Inside and Sport Luxe – the brand is looking to drive forward with its penetration back into the UK wholesale market. The new season sees the label take tailoring-inspired construction techniques and fabrics such as gabardine and combine them with the rugged outdoors personality of denim. Wash techniques are key to the collection, with authentic vintage wash techniques deployed to create lived-in antique-look washes. Silhouettes, meanwhile, comprise slim styles, straight-leg and skinny fits to create a contemporary trend story. —

Product news

Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock

Sweat it out

Lee hits 125 Celebrating the denim label’s 125th anniversary

Seek The growth of the contemporary menswear trade fair

Premium MWB speaks to founder Anita Tillmann

Exhibition calendar The dates, the times and the locations

More memories 170 years of retail specialist Morplan

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DECEMBER 2014 | DENIM | PRODUCT | 38

RADAR

PRODUCT NEWS

Spotlighting style

Inside menswear

THE RETURN OF BEANO

ASHLEY MARC HOVELLE ESTABLISHED: 2009 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Contrasting prints and embroidery feature heavily on jerseywear, while hand-illustrated designs reveal a detailed design signature. — HISTORY: Creative director Ashley Marc Hovelle developed the brand concept after a trip to Ibiza, using years of industry experience from time spent working at Fred Perry, Urban Outfitters, Savile Row and Gloverall. International brand Ashley Marc Hovelle holds accounts worldwide, exporting 85 per cent of its business across 14 countries. The label is also available for international delivery via the website through the e-store option. Besides maintaining a strong online presence, pop-ups appear on a seasonal basis in London as a way to interact with the brand’s customer base – typically described as media and style savvy young males residing in city locations such as London, New York and Tokyo. The brand’s collection reflects Hovelle’s experiences in fashion, film and life, and focuses on recreating looks from the past. In-keeping with this idea, the upcoming s/s 15 collection takes inspiration from the retro clothing used in the 1988 cult film Big. “We always like to work with one overriding theme, and although every collection presents a design challenge, the particular themes enable me to present collections that cover many elements in terms of visual and technical aspects, that offer a cohesive and clear message within every piece of the range,” says Hovelle. Wholesale prices average at £26. —

Iconic British comic classic The Beano has launched its first ever menswear line in collaboration with N16 Vintage under the helm of licensee DC Thomson Consumer Products. Sold exclusively for Asos this season, the range comprises T-shirts, shirting and outerwear – which are either vintage-inspired or original reclaimed garments. Boasting a selection of 16 pieces, highlights include a Russian military Breton tee, complete with original labelling, a vintage denim shirt with embroidery detailed pocket, long-line signature black and red checked shirt and a bomber jacket with all-over comic strip print. —

FRESH FROM VENICE BEACH Denim specialist Diesel presents one of its strongest collections to date this coming s/s 15, as the skater spirit of Venice beach meets the gas station blues. With an emphasis on mix-and-match, archetypal separates define the menswear category. Sports mesh meets zipped bikers and college stripes in an unexpected hybrid of denim and leather, teamed with clean and dirty finishes from pale, faded, stonewashed jeans to high-sheen waxed and studded designs. —

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DECEMBER 2014 | DENIM | PRODUCT | 39

ON TREND Seasonal extras: Tech accessories

JEAN POOL Created using premium and hard-wearing 12oz US Cone Mills denim, Denim is Everything presents a series of classic wardrobe staples for a/w 15. The Ease jean, for example, is a slim, tapered-fit style with a regular waist, dropped rise, slim thigh and narrow hem. The mid-blue outer jean, meanwhile, features a premium laundering technique finished by hand, using a combination of 3D whiskering and hand-grinding to the front and back pockets to give the jeans a two-year vintage look. In addition, the range comprises structured denim shirts, basic polos and graphic tees. —

4 1: COTE & CIEL £31.30 0033 153013962 2: LUKE 1977 £9.50 01869 366580 3: VOLCOM £5.65 020 7729 2744 4: DIESEL price on request 020 7520 7700 5: HAPPY PLUGS £14.99 0046 708608130

5 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

NEWS

AONO UK independent urban streetwear brand AONO was met with instant success when founder Paul Hewitt revealed its first collection of logo T-shirts in 2011. Selling the logo T-shirts from the renowned AONO Barbershop in Brighton, the garments proved to be an instant sell-out prompting an expansion for the brand. Focusing on creating cut-and-sew garments that feature hand-drawn lines, T-shirts are made to last with extra care taken in generating quality prints. The main influence behind the brand is Hewitt’s love of tattoo design, streetwear and the barbering lifestyle. Next season the collection will, as always, continue to explore these elements, ensuring that the brand image is maintained. Designs will develop to become more detailed, and print patterns are set to become more intricate. Currently the brand is stocked in high-end UK streetwear retailers and at the AONO Barbershop, though plans to enter the European market with a new distributor are under way. Wholesale prices average at £12 for T-shirts, while hoodies and sweatshirts average at £20. www.aono.co.uk

ESTABLISHED: 2011 – HISTORY: BRIGHTON BARBER PAUL HEWITT STARTED OUT BY SELLING A SMALL SUPPLY OF THE AONO LOGO T-SHIRTS FROM THE AONO BARBERSHOP. – SIGNATURE STYLE: PAYING HOMAGE TO TATTOO ART AND THE BARBER LIFESTYLE, DESIGN IS FOCUSED ON HAND-DRAWN LINES AND QUALITY PRINTS.

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DECEMBER 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 40

STONE ISLAND £72 020 7608 9100

BELLFIELD £10.50 0161 230 7312 HUMOR £18.50 07748 592392

SWEAT IT OUT The humble sweatshirt takes a graphic twist this season, welcoming intricate illustrations, tie-dye finishes and bold logo placement. —

ANERKJENDT £16 0161 236 9855

ASCEND £22 07771 981381

AKA £20 07557 233726

VILLAIN £42 020 7379 4488

D555 £7.50 0115 977 0009 NICCE £15 020 7739 7620

ASHLEY MARC HOVELL £60 07425 848454

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DECEMBER 2014 | PROFILE | LEE JEANS | 42

LEE HITS 125 Lee Jeans is celebrating its 125th anniversary with special designer collaboration collections under the “125” banner. It’s also revamped and moved its temporary shop on Neal Street, Covent Garden, to a permanent one next door. With the brand’s profile riding high – and the mainline “trading up” – further retail plans with selected “partners” are afoot. Tom Bottomley finds out more from Lee Jeans UK and Eire country manager Damien Ladwa. — So it’s 125 years since Henry David Lee founded his workwear brand HD Lee in Kansas, USA. With a heritage dating back to 1889, it’s little wonder that Lee is one of the most respected and recognised denim brands worldwide. In celebration of the anniversary, the label has teamed up with a quartet of very different designers on collaboration lines – two for menswear and two for womenswear. The results have certainly been varied. The likes of Harvey Nichols, Urban Outfitters and Asos are selling the men’s “125” line. Damien Ladwa, Lee Jeans UK and Eire country manager, says, “It’s a one-off collection in collaboration with four very different designers who have an affinity with denim. Each has their

own unique personality that reflects the different facets of the Lee brand.” Designer and founder of luxury denim label PRPS, Donwan Harrell, who was also known to have been a big Lee fan for many years, took a heritage-inspired approach to his men’s offer. On the other hand, Örjan Andersson, the founder of Swedish denim brand Cheap Monday, gave it a more commercial fashion element. “Andersson is quite close to the brand, as the biggest market for Lee in Europe is Scandinavia,” says Ladwa. “We had a lot of people in our company who knew him – and his company – so it was quite an easy connection. Again, he brought something different to the denim.” The Donwan Harrell denims in the 125 line

are pitched slightly above Lee’s standard pricing, with jeans at £110-£125. There are only four pieces done by Harrell – one shirt, two jackets and four washes of one denim. There are heritage Lee prints on the lining of pockets, using heritage advertising prints from the 20s and 30s. The pricing on the Örjan Andersson collaboration is more in line with Lee Jeans’ regular prices, and the range is bigger. There’s a check flannel western shirt in there, two denim jackets, three T-shirts and five washes in the denim across a few different fits. “We’ve concentrated on the slim and skinny silhouettes,” says Ladwa, “because it’s in line with what Cheap Monday does. The key fit for us is called Luke. We’ve also done one fit called the All Gender Slim which, as

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it sounds, is for guys and gals.” The second two designer collaborations are both on the women’s side. First up is Belgian designer Gregory Derkenne and sisters Sarah and Carol Piron of Filles à Papa, which is a hot Belgian brand at the moment. It’s a lot younger, and there are a lot of sweats and bold logo prints, with more of a “street” element. The other women’s collaboration is with Emma François, founder and head designer of Parisian womenswear brand Sessùn. It’s a bit more grown-up and refined. Both Harrods and Selfridges featured popup installations of the Filles à Papa collection this winter. On the broader scale, Lee Jeans has been undergoing something of a “trading up” period of its mainline. Ladwa says, “The designs and product now reflect inspirations from the higher end 101 collection, albeit maybe from 101’s previous collection. It’s filtering down. “With the price points we’ve got on Lee Jeans, especially considering the styles we’re now putting in there, it looks really good value,” he continues. “The entry price point bestselling selvedge jean in the 101 line retails at £125, whereas in the Lee Jeans line it’s more like £80£85. That’s our ‘sweet spot’ on price point in the main range.” To get this message across, Lee took the step of presenting the main collection at the last Jacket Required show (Lee 101 presented in a different area of the show). It’s a move that seems to have worked out well, and got the label back under the noses of some key independents who maybe haven’t considered the brand for quite a while. Says Ladwa, “It’s not like we’re on this huge ramp of distribution, it’s more a case

DECEMBER 2014 | PROFILE | LEE JEANS | 43

“It’s a one-off collection in collaboration with four very different designers who have an affinity with denim. Each has their own unique personality that reflects the different facets of the Lee brand”

of seeding it in the right shops. It’s not been the easiest time for independents over the last few years, so we want to make sure we’re connecting with the right ones. It was really well received, and we will be doing it again next season. These days, the whole strategy in a nutshell is for the 101 line to act as the springboard for the main line, and for us to show our ‘face’ a little bit more as it were.” Showing the “face” of the brand more, as Ladwa puts it, is also part of a retail roll-out plan that is in the pipeline. But the intention is to work with retail “partners”, as opposed to the wholly owned and run Lee stores on Covent Garden’s Neal Street and at Westfield. “It’s about us having more presence, but the right kind of presence, working with retailers who know their area and market, and who believe in the Lee brand,” says Ladwa. “Our Neal Street store has just re-opened with a brand new shopfit – next door to a temporary Lee shop that we’ve been in for the past two years. It just so happened it came up, and it felt right after the trial period we’ve had there. Neal Street is a tremendously busy street. People may regard it more as full of footwear and cafés, but it’s a lively location with a lot going on, and we do very well there.” Ladwa says the brand is generally performing well in the UK, so it seems like a good time to expand the retail side. “We’re looking to partner up with businesses with retail expertise in different parts of the country. From our side

we will provide the whole look and feel of the stores, and everything that comes with the brand.” He believes that unless you have retail stores, you can quite often miss the necessary brand projection that gets it noticed and raises the profile. Apparently the retail partner shops won’t be too far away from the standard franchise shop model, but he believes there will be more, say, for the partner as opposed to how other brands have taken this route. “It’s not like we want to go in there with a blueprint and say, ‘This is what you must do and this is how much it’s going to cost you.’ We want it to be a partnership in the true sense of the word. The point is that we’ll be working with them as people, as individuals and personalities with local knowledge to bring their experience and perceptions to the brand.” The plan is to open 20 partner stores in the next five years, and Lee is currently in the process of speaking with a few potential partners. London will be a big focus over the first couple of years, with a quarter of those stores likely to be in different pockets of the Capital. “We’re also going to ramp up the marketing and advertising in terms of buses and taxis and so on, to create more of an impact,” says Ladwa. “We’re actively seeking retail partners in key parts of London right now, which will be in line with the marketing strategy.” So, as Lee rides into its 125th anniversary year with some aplomb, it may also be opening a shop in a town near you soon.

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DECEMBER 2014 | PREVIEW | SEEK | 46

SEEK With a brand new location, offering an extended platform to showcase new and returning labels, contemporary German trade show Seek is becoming one of the leading international events on the menswear buying calendar. MWB discovers more about the a/w 15 edition of the trade fair. —

19-21 JANUARY 2015 ARENA BERLIN BETRIEBS GMBH, EICHENSTRASSE 4, 12435 BERLIN Contemporary fashion trade show Seek is moving out of its original home of Kühlhaus and into the cult Berlin location, Arena. On the banks of the river Spree, next to institutions such as Club der Visionaire, Hoppetosse and White Trash Fast Food, the show will take place on 19-21 January 2015 in the space of a former public transport warehouse of the 1920s. With various indoor and outdoor spaces, the complex offers optimum conditions for presenting a carefully selected mix of international brands, spanning menswear, premium streetwear, sportswear and designer collections. Seek is known for its simplistic, clean design and layout – stand size and brand turnover are not considerations with the show focusing on product, concept and the philosophy of the people behind it. “Since its inception in 2009, the exhibition has concentrated on culture, independence and the future of urban lifestyle,” says founder Anita Tillmann. “The portfolio of established, longstanding labels on one hand and new, visionary labels on the other makes Seek the authority for all those whose love of fashion is not dictated by trends. “Seek has become one of the most important upper-streetwear platforms,” she continues. “It’s about emotions, interaction and the requirements of the players on all sides. We remain faithful to our concept and grow organically, working very closely with Seek community insiders.”

NEW SIGNINGS 2xH Brothers, A Question Of, Aigle, Alpha Industries, Andrew Ibi, Apocs, Ateliers Auguste, ATF Workshop, Avec Index, Bellroy, Ben Sherman x Alpha Industries, Ben Sherman x Pendleton Woolen Mills, Black Kaviar, Born//Raised, Brixtol, By The Number, Carhartt Work In Progress, Clae, Claudine Brignot, Côte&Ciel + Comme des Garçons, Côte&Ciel + Mykita, Crash Baggage, Diadora Sport, Donkey Products, Dunderdon, Eat Dust, Edwin, Filling Pieces, Forvert, Fred Perry, Frenn, Garment Project, Grand Scheme, Grenson, Hamilton and Hare, Handsom, Happy Socks, Heidenei, Hex, Ideal & Co, Iuter, Kancha, Kerbholz, Kommon Universe, Komono Crafted, Lauren Geoghegan, Lazy Oaf, Libertine-Libertine, Lightning Bolt, Lrg Lifted Research Group, Manhattan Portage, Marie Sixtine, Marine Machine Leather Supply, Mr Start, Native Youth, Natural Selection, Naviiv, New Balance, Noise Goods, O‘Neill x Kyle NG, O‘Neill x Pendleton Woolen Mills, Olow, Ontour, Opm – Original Peoples Mind, Original Penguin, Otis Batterbee, Parka London, Pendleton Woolen Mills, Penfield, Peter Werth, Pinqponq, Poler, Portuguese Flannel, Ransom, Rascals, Re;Code, Rvlt, Senhor Prudencio, Serge DeNimes, Sessùn, Sperry Top-Sider, Squarestreet, Stance, Suit, Swiss Chriss, The Blue Uniform, There are Many of Us, Tid Watches, Tuk Tuk, Ucla Clothing, Uniformes Generale, Valley Eyewear, Void Watches, Volcomunity, Weekendbarber, Wemoto, Woodbird, Y SC1, Zanerobe

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DECEMBER 2014 | PREVIEW | PREMIUM | 49

PREMIUM Following its success last season, Berlin trade show Premium is expanding its portfolio, welcoming over 1,000 brands across an area of almost 27,000 sq m. Victoria Jackson speaks to founder Anita Tillmann about the plans for a/w 15 and what buyers can expect come January. 19-21 January, Station-Berlin, Luckenwalder Strasse 4-6, 10963 Berlin —

Victoria Jackson: The exhibition landscape is changing each and every season, especially in Berlin. How has Premium fared over the past couple of challenging seasons? Anita Tillmann: In the current market, the challenges facing retailers especially are greater than ever. The aim of Premium as a market place is to create the ideal conditions for retailers to conduct business. We want to create a place of trust and match the right people. We are constantly analysing the current market situation and identifying retailers’ needs. The profiles of both Premium and Seek (Premium’s contemporary menswear sister show) are clearly defined. Over the years, we have remained true to our original concept. Our motto has always been quality over quantity. We will continue to curate the portfolio season by season in order to inspire retailers, consistently reinvent ourselves, and foster longstanding partnerships. For us, continuity, consistency and competence are really paying off. — VJ: Is menswear still an important element of Premium for you? AT: The menswear retail landscape has changed significantly in recent years. The new generation of men are more styleconscious and fashion-savvy, mixing the different styles – from classic and elegant styles to sportswear, streetwear and lifestyle gadgets. Increasingly, the shops are also taking on this mix of styles. Therefore classic gentlemen’s outfitters are almost nowhere to be seen these days. We mirror this demand with the brand portfolios at Premium and Seek, which complement one another perfectly. At Seek we present 90 per cent modern menswear, new classics, upper streetwear, elevated sportswear and authentic designer collections. At Premium the percentage of menswear collections is around 40 per cent, where we present the entire ranges of high-quality menswear – from classically elegant collections through to progressive lines. — VJ: Which menswear names can we expect? AT: Menswear brands include The Bridge, Brian Dales, Crossley, Esemplare, Eton, Falke, Hip and Bone, Johnny Love, Man1924, Moorer, Phil Petter, Sieger, Alter Ego, Harris Wharf London, Nuur, Roberto Collina, Lipunderpoint und at Seek we will be presenting Fred Perry, New Balance, Lyle & Scott and Jonathan Saunders, Libertine-Libertine, O’Neill x Kyle NG, Our Legacy, Rascals, Sessùn, Penfield and many more. — VJ: What is the German retail landscape like at the moment? AT: The shops that are closing are those that are not responding to changes in the fashion and retail landscape. And that applies for both bricks-andmortar and online retailers. Success is achieved by adapting to the reality of the market and updating continuously. Lots of new stores are opening at the moment, particularly in Berlin, but also in Munich. These stores stand out and resonate with people because of their unique concepts. Good

examples include Bikini Berlin, design concept stores Super and Hotel Ultra, Soho House’s The Store and Stereo. Longstanding successful retail concepts such as Apropos and MyTheresa.com, to name but a few, grow further. — VJ: Are UK visitors an important focus for you? AT: We wish that more buyers from the UK would seek out international brands beyond their own borders. Premium is characterised by its predominantly international audience, with 73 per cent of our visitors coming from other countries. After Germany, other strong markets include Southern Europe, with 22 per cent, and France and Benelux, with 21 per cent of the total visitors. Visitor numbers from overseas are increasing steadily and make up 12 per cent of the total. — VJ: What can buyers expect from the a/w 15 show? AT: This season buyers can expect to see 1,800 collections spread over 27,000 sq m exhibition space in the unique setting of Station-Berlin with its charming industrial atmosphere. Visitors can look forward to a high-calibre brand portfolio, carefully assembled with the newest collections and the most innovative products and concepts. Two new halls house the new segments New Luxury in the recently built Hall 8 and Trend Fashion Brands in the Kühlhaus. In addition, Premium and Seek are organising the #FashionTech Innovation Lab in the Glashaus at the Berlin Arena in order to provide the industry with insights into the most recent digital developments. These will be introduced through presentations, lectures, workshops, talks and panel discussions in order to support the transfer of interdisciplinary knowledge. The optimised services on offer at Premium help visitors to orientate themselves and to work efficiently. These include the Brand Match tool, the new sign-posting system, GPS guidance through the trade show halls, the Premium app and the Premium magazine. — VJ: And finally, Berlin has seen a number of new shows added to the dateline of Berlin Fashion Week. What makes Premium stand out against the rest? AT: We strive for fashion excellence, presenting the industry with the most distinguished, international, high-calibre brand portfolio. Committed to serving our clients in the best possible way, we are making their needs and business intentions our top priority. We use our decade-long fashion expertise to combine business and service with innovation, inspiration and emotion. We are not only devoted to providing the industry with an ideal environment for successful ordering business; we also aim to create the right conditions for stimulating business dynamics. With our extended worldwide fashion network, we help initialise and foster business relations, match business partners and accompany them if needed. In order to maintain the highest possible quality standards season by season, we verify the results of our work and continuously optimise our services according to the needs of the industry.

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DECEMBER 2014 | PREVIEW | SHOW GUIDE | 50

EXHIBITION CALENDAR MWB’s essential guide to the a/w 15 buying schedule. Sponsored by:

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN 9-12 January 2015 The Hospital Club, Covent Garden and Victoria House, Bloomsbury 020 7759 1999 www.londoncollections.co.uk — With over 80 designers confirmed to exhibit across static and catwalk presentations, British menswear event London Collections: Men will welcome back names such as Maharishi, Burberry Prorsum and Tom Ford. The schedule sees an additional day added to the dateline, increasing it to a four-day event, with Topman Design opening the show on Friday 9 January at 12.30pm. Other key designers include Barbour, Paul Smith, Thomas Pink, Casely-Hayford, Tiger of Sweden and Moschino. MWB will be hosting an Open House drinks reception on Saturday 10 January 2015, to celebrate the a/w 15 edition of the show at The Hospital Club from 5pm to 7pm. —

PITTI UOMO 13-16 January 2015 Fortezza Da Basso Florence 0039 (0)5509491861 www.pittimmagine.com — The first show to kick-off the international buying calendar, Pitti Uomo enters its 87th edition this coming season, with a host of new divisions and developments. A key launch is the Pitti Smart app, which can be used by buyers and press for accreditation. The show will also welcome an exclusive Marni fashion show featuring the a/w 15 menswear collection, under the creative helm of Consuelo Castiglioni. Luxury label Hood by Air (HBA), meanwhile, will be Pitti’s Special Guest in January. The brand is admired by members of the trade for its highly creative cutting-edge collections, and will produce a special event at Pitti Uomo. —

Capsule New York 19-20 January 2015 Basketball City, 299 South Street, New York 0012 (0)122069310 www.capsuleshow.com Bread & Butter 19-21 January Airport Berlin-Templehof 0049 (0)30 2000 370 www.breadandbutter.com Project New York 19-21 January 2015 Jacob Javits Center, New York 0012 (0)29516600 www.magiconline.com MAN New York 19-21 January 2015 775 Washington Street, 10014 New York 0033 143665703 www.man-shows.com Bright 19-21 January 2015 Jandorf, Brunnenstr 19-21, 10119 Berlin brighttradeshow.com Dedicated to the streetwear, skate and boardsport sectors —

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Tranoi Homme 22-24 January 2015 Palais de la Bourse, 72002 0033 (0)153018490 www.tranoi.com Capsule Paris 23-25 January 2015 Cité de la Mode, 34 Quai d’Austerlitz, 75013 Paris 0012 (0)122069310 www.capsuleshow.com Who’s Next 23-26 January 2015 Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 (0)140137483 www.whosnext-tradeshow.com MAN Paris 23-25 January 2015 25 rue Yves Toudic Paris 10 0033 143665703 www.man-shows.com Modefabriek 25-26 January 2015 Amsterdam RAI, Netherlands 0031 (0)204421960 www.modefabriek.nl INDX Menswear Show 27-29 January 2015 Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre, Solihull 0121 683 1434 www.indxshow.co.uk Revolver 29-31 January 2015 Meatpacking District, Oeksnehallen and Fishmarket District, Lokomotivaerkstedet 0045 39648586 www.revolver.dk Gallery CPH 29-31 January 2015 100 showrooms across Copenhagen 0045 33120930 www.gallerystudio.dk —

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PANORAMA 19-21 January 2015 Berlin ExpoCentre City, Messe Berlin 0049 30275956040 www.panorama-berlin.com — For a/w 15, Panorama presents a newly curated exhibitor portfolio, including new additions Bugatti, Codello and Gaudi. Following its successful summer event at the new location of ExpoCentre City, Panorama will once again take place at the inner-city setting. Having selected its dateline to coincide with Berlin Fashion Week and the city’s other exhibitions, the show is presenting its ranges as part of a comprehensive fashion event in the cosmopolitan city of Berlin. New for the coming season is the integration of data columns on each stand, enabling visitors to gain all collection and brand information by swiping their entrance ticket. —

SEEK 19-21 January 2015 Arena Berlin Betriebs GmbH Eichenstraße 4 12435 Berlin 0049 306290850 www.seekexhibitions.com — Seek enters a new phase of its development and growth this season, with its relocation to the iconic Arena Berlin. Offering a mix of indoor and outdoor spaces, the trade exhibition will bring together a carefully handpicked selection of brands across apparel, footwear and accessories. Moving from its original birth place of Kühlhaus (which will now house the expansion of sister show Premium), Arena Berlin is set next to the River Spree, next to the likes of Club der Visionaire, Hoppetosse and White Trash Fast Food. Brands set to showcase their autumn/winter 2015 offering include Aigle, Brixtol, Edwin, Filling Pieces, Frenn, Rascals, Lazy Oaf, Donkey Products, Bellroy, Suit, Original Penguin and many more. —

PREMIUM 19-21 January 2015 Station-Berlin, Luckenwalder Strasse 4–6, 10963 Berlin 0049 306290850 www.premiumexhibitions.com — Premium targets the high-fashion end of the apparel spectrum, bringing together premium brands from the menswear, womenswear, denim, footwear and accessories sectors. The show expects to welcome over 60,000 visitors seeking “quality over quantity” from the exhibiting 1,500 collections. This season sees fine-tuning of the brand portfolio with around a quarter of the exhibiting brands showing for the first time, including Aigle, C.P. Company, Holubar, K-Way, Karl Lagerfeld, The Bridge and European Culture. A clear, well-structured concept and easily accessible information are also promised to visitors in line with the show’s commitment to making exhibitions efficient and enjoyable. —

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DECEMBER 2014 | PREVIEW | SHOW GUIDE | 52

CIFF RAVEN 29 January – 1 February 2015 Forum CPH, Copenhagen 0045 32528811 www.ciff.dk — Now the world’s fifth fashion capital, Copenhagen is the location for menswear and womenswear trade show CIFF, and the gateway to Scandinavian fashion. Launching this season is CIFF Raven – a menswear and lifestyle exhibition, which will welcome a host of international brands as well as presenting its own exports within a carefully curated exhibition space. Bringing together over 100 brands across 4,800 sq m of exhibition space, each label will be showcased in a “village” of sleek, minimalistic bungalows. —

JACKET REQUIRED 4-5 February 2015 The Old Truman Brewery, London E1 info@jacket-required.com www.jacket-required.com — Now entering its eighth edition, contemporary menswear trade show Jacket Required returns to The Old Truman Brewery, with a dedicated focus on attracting both international brands and buyers to British shores. Welcoming over 225 labels to East London, buyers can expect to see show favourites such as Garbstore Lightning Bolt, Red Wing and Clarks Originals, while a new lexicon of brands including Gant Rugger, Mr Start Victorinox, Johnstons of Elgin and Naked & Famous denim give the show its most comprehensive menswear offer to date. The development of Jacket Required has also seen a variety of footwear, outerwear, accessory and lifestyle brands handpicked and carefully curated to complement its authentic and diverse blueprint. —

MODA GENT 15-17 February 2015 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — Moda Gent, the industry’s national trade exhibition for the menswear sector, will welcome a host of both classic and contemporary brands at its winter edition next season. Returning favourites Seidensticker, Eterna, Camel Active and Olymp will exhibit in the newly refurbished plaza, while debutants include Gloverall, Mac Jeans and Carl Gross. Taking place against the backdrop of the UK’s largest fashion trade show, Moda Gent will present a comprehensive seminar programme, catwalk shows and social events to create the essential hub for the fashion industry under one roof. —

CIFF 29 January – 1 February 2015 Bella Centre, Copenhagen 0045 32528811 www.ciff.dk Londonedge 1-3 February 2015 The West Hall, Olympia, London 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com IMC 1-2 February 2015 Whittlebury Hall Northamptonshire 01473 256061 www.imcmenswear.co.uk MAN Tokyo 3-5 February 2015 25 Rue Yves Toudic Paris 10 0033 143665703 www.man-shows.com GDS 4-6 February 2015 Messe Dusseldorf, Germany 0049 21145607606 www.gds-online.com Momad Metropolis 8-10 February 2015 Feria de Madrid, IFEMA 0034 91722221616 www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es Premiere Vision Paris 10-12 February 2015 Parc des Expositions Paris Nord-Villepinte, Paris, France 0033 (0)170387030 www.premierevision.com Premiere Vision Leather 10-12 February 2015 0033 (0)170387000 www.cuiraparis.com —

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Asia Apparel Expo 15-17 February 2015 Messe Berlin, Germany 0085 235889688 www.asiaapparelexpo.com TheMicam 15-18 February 2015 Rho Fiera Milano, Milan 0039 02438291 www.micamonline.com Capsule Las Vegas 16-18 February 2015 The Venetian Ballroom, 3355 S Las Vegas Blvd 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com Magic Las Vegas 17-19 February 2015 Las Vegas and Mandalay Bay Convention Centres, Nevada 0012 (0)29516600 www.magiconline.com Capsule New York 22-24 February 2015 Pier 94, 711 12th Ave, NYC 10019 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com CPM Moscow 24-27 February 2015 Expocentre Fairgrounds, Moscow 0049 (0)211/4396-01 www.cpm-moscow.com ILM 27 February – 1 March 2015 Messe Offenbach, Germany 0049 698297550 www.messe-offenbach.de —

DECEMBER 2014 | PREVIEW | SHOW GUIDE | 53

MODA FOOTWEAR 15-17 February 2015 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — Bringing together a comprehensive portfolio of footwear labels across the men’s, women’s and children’s sectors, Moda Footwear is the shoe industry’s national trade exhibition. This season sees new exhibitors Ara, Sorel, Talolo Boots and Zohula make their debut at the show, while flagship labels Brakeburn, Dr Martens, Fly London and Rocket Dog will once again unveil their new season collections at the event. —

SELECT 15-17 February 2015 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — Returning to its original ethos of handpicked brands across contemporary, urban and directional men’s apparel and footwear, Select is set to welcome a raft of labels to its a/w 15 edition. Buyers can expect to see British classics such as Knightsbridge Neckwear, 1 Like No Other, Farah 1920 and Peregrine, while returning footwear names include Superga and Paradigma. A daily catwalk will also take place in Select, showcasing the latest trends in contemporary fashion, tailoring and footwear. —

THE HUB 12-13 March 2015 Asia World Expo, Hong Kong www.thehub.dk — Following a successful third edition, The HUB has now firmly cemented its position as the leading trade show in Asia for branded and designer fashion with a new central venue – Asia World Expo, in Lai Chi Kok’s D2 Place – reworked exhibitor mix and attendance from key buyers from across Hong Kong, mainland China and the Asia-Pacific region. Past exhibitors include British classics such as Sanders, Henri Lloyd and Hancock, with almost 100 international brands from the UK, US, Italy, France, Spain and Japan expected to present their collections at the a/w 15 edition. —

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DECEMBER 2014 | PROFILE | MORPLAN | 54

MORE MEMORIES Morplan celebrates 170 years this year as a supplier to the trade and one of the industry’s leading providers of mannequins and store-fit solutions. Christina Williams takes a look back over 17 decades in the trade and finds out why the business model has been so successful. —

Established at a time when a 25-year-old Queen Victoria was on the throne, Morplan’s origins are rooted in a different world. When George Morrish set up a small print workshop outside his house in South London’s Camberwell, his business aspirations would never have stretched beyond printing, and he certainly wouldn’t have imagined his small family business becoming the national leader in store-fit supplies. Over 17 decades, however, Morplan has evolved from its humble beginnings, producing paper bags and stationery for retailers, to the nationwide supplier to over 50,000 customers. Offering 5,000 stocked products – of which clothes rails are the bestseller – Morplan is the first port of call for retailers of all types looking for mannequins, rails, display stands, carrier bags, hangers and personalised printing supplies. “We evolved partly as a result of our relocation in 1984 to the Oxford Street area,” says Norman Haynes, Morplan’s marketing director. “Throughout the reign of Queen Victoria, our staff would have been rubbing shoulders with tanners, blacksmiths, tailors and seamstresses, and they tailored their offer to the nearby businesses. The printing of knitting patterns, for example, soon expanded into the service of showing off the finished product, for example a mannequin and, combined with our quality and price and service, that is how we became what we are today.” Although primarily a B2B model, Morplan still has its flagship store in the Oxford Street area to this day, along with two others in Glasgow and Bristol, all of which sell directly to the public. The company’s multichannel strategy, meanwhile, sees it despatch 500 orders a day via its catalogue, telephone hotline and website, while

the traditional model of stores being visited by a rep prevails for retailers wanting a dedicated appointment. It’s a supply network that spans the UK and Ireland and, three years ago, the company was awarded one of the highest accolades to which a British business can aspire – the Royal Warrant. “The Queen’s dresser uses some of our products to keep Her Majesty looking picture perfect,” says Haynes. “Our primary focus is the UK market – although we do export our products – so it was a real achievement to receive such a prestigious endorsement.” With its combination of cutting-edge aspirations and traditional family run values that stretch back over 170 years, Morplan is a one-of-a-kind business. The company was owned by successive generations of the Morrish family up until 1982, when the business was sold to print and packaging group Ferguson International Holdings. More recently, in 1999 the Retif Group – a business with a similar product portfolio – acquired Morplan and, to this the day, the Group is running the business in accordance with its ethics and ongoing legacy as the trade’s leading store solutions supplier. “We offer just about everything you need to run a successful retail business with the three essential factors of quality, price and service,” says Haynes. “With such a flexible approach, I’d like to think we would still be the UK’s leading wholesale supplier in another 170 years’ time.” —

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DECEMBER 2014 | PEOPLE | 56

RADAR The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK HOLBORN GRIND, HIGH HOLBORN, LONDON WC1V

SIMON SAYS Friends and strangers to our industry often ask why don’t I produce more in the UK? To illustrate my answer, I usually point to my receding hairline and premature greyness. God knows, I’ve tried. — Here’s a cautionary tale to warm your hearts this festive season. Once upon a time, long, long ago, there lived a goblin called Metalbasher. He worked in the mediaeval town of Walsall, and made cufflinks for Prince Simon. But as Prince Simon opened more and more of his magical shops, Metalbasher struggled to keep up. “Come on Metalbasher,” the Prince said, impatiently, “It’s no good shutting at 12pm every Friday when there’s work to be done!” But Metalbasher didn’t see things like that. This was the way he’d always done it in the cave, as had his fathers before him. “Never try anything new, Son,” had been his father’s last words. So when Prince Simon asked Metalbasher to buy a new forge and hammer, and hold bits of iron in stock, he refused. “Why would I do that?” he said, puzzled, as he shut the cave at three thirty sharp as he did every day, so as not to be annoyed by customers ringing with their pesky orders in the afternoon. “Because you’ll have more orders and take on more goblins,” shouted Prince Simon, cross because there was no stock in his magical shops. It was no good. Metalbasher hurrumphed and parrumphed and refused to even speak to Prince Simon. More goblins indeed. So Prince Simon set sail across the seas and found the Offshore Kingdom, populated by the mysterious peoples, quick to promise everything. In a flash, they set up their shiny forges in remote rural parts of the country and trained their elves to be as fast as forks of lightning. The Offshore Elves were only too happy to try new experiments as long as Prince Simon paid, up front of course. So how does our cautionary tale end, dear reader? Well Prince Simon set sail with his bounty of Offshore Kingdom cufflinks and filled his magical shops with well-made goods delivered on time. But, as the years went by, the Offshore Kingdom elves grew plump and greedy. Eventually, Prince Simon tired of their ever extravagant price demands. “Whatever happened to Metalbasher?” he wondered wistfully. He sent his faithful carrier pigeon to his cave to find out, careful to allow enough time to reach there before 3.30pm and midday on a Friday. Alas! The cave was now populated by young bearded and fashionable types, drinking coffee and sitting at Metalbasher’s anvil! “Hey ho,” said Prince Simon, and he set sail again to the Offshore Kingdom. Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores. —

Following the success of Shoreditch Grind, Soho Grind and pop-up Piccadilly Grind, Grind & Co’s latest edition Holborn Grind opened its doors to coffee lovers in September. — The espresso bar has joined forces with new hotel The Hoxton, Holborn, for its latest site. Though set away from the bustle unlike its sister stores, Holborn Grind retains the tried-and-tested look that has helped build a legion of loyal customers. Exposed brick combined with elegant marble make up the interior, while an intricate system of light fittings and shelving made from antique brass inspired by 50s polished cocktail carts sits behind the bar. Coffee enthusiasts can expect to see Grind & Co’s famous house blend served at the bar, along with a bespoke single-origin coffee chosen especially for the new location. And like the other stores, Holborn Grind will open in the evening, serving an all-day food menu. — PLAN B

TERRY BATES managing director, Denim is Everything

Had I not developed such a love for the denim industry, I would have very much enjoyed seeking a career as a broadsheet sports journalist with a focus on football. The leading journalists have all helped to put the spotlight on critical issues, all the way from corruption in Fifa to lack of investment in the game at a grassroots level. I’ll never forget buying The Independent newspaper when it first launched in 1986. For me, as a northerner living in London, it was the first paper to provide unbiased reporting and analysis from football matches. Prior to that, London teams often seemed to get favourable reports, especially when playing northern teams at home. That change was led by a reporter called Patrick Barclay. So delighted was I by his reporting that I once called Patrick to thank him for his work. I would have loved to have followed in his footsteps. —

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DECEMBER 2014 | PEOPLE | 57

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL BEN MELLIS, SALES MANAGER, ZONE 2 (RESPONSIBLE FOR ATELIER SCOTCH/SCOTCH & SODA) I don’t have many vices but footwear is certainly one. Last autumn I picked up a pair of beautifully constructed double monk-strap shoes by Alexander McQueen from Mr Porter, which I’d been obsessing over for months. They really are an incredibly special pair of shoes, not only because of the unusual burgundy/brown colour combination but also because they’re so versatile. I’m crazy about navy blue tailoring, and these shoes work with so many of my suits as well as my current favourite slim denims, which are a pair of raw Scotch & Soda Amsterdam Blauw Skim jeans. — Historically, I’ve not really been a trainers guy, but over the last 12 months I’ve managed to accumulate a collection of eight new pairs of kicks. Mostly Nike, but also Adidas and New Balance. And, they’re all really bright and colourful. I think I must be channeling the colour and technical sports trends directly through my sneaker purchases. The limited-edition Nike Free Runs are particularly interesting because it was through these shoes that I began to evolve my style this year, from being fairly classic to combining tailored menswear with more sports-led looks. — Given my recent sneaker indulgences I was particularly pleased to find a fully tailored woollen suit in the a/w 14 Atelier Scotch launch collection, which we have lovingly called the “sneaker suit”. It features a beautifully cut slim-fit bomber jacket with matching tapered trousers, which are gathered at the hem. The jacket has an articulated shoulder vent for ease of movement, while the trousers have a structured waistband and are fully lined. I love it and can’t wait for the current mild weather spell to give way to winter proper so I can start wearing it. — Finally, I’m going to pick the jacket in my wardrobe which has given me the most mileage in terms of wear, and that’s my Belstaff Roadmaster. Born from function, the styling and silhouette is timeless. Plus, it’s ageing beautifully. I’ve had it for years and it remains my go-to weekend jacket. Perfect for relaxed strolls in the country. —

SOCIETY

TOP TWEETS Gibbs Menswear @GibbsMenswear You can never go wrong with a Navy Chino! comehappy.leave.edgy @bricklanecoffee It amazes me how much exercise and extra fries sound alike. Perfume Genius @perfumegenius Pretty sure I could destroy him with Just a Look, someone put us in a room together and watch Eminem slowly wither from my witch glance. Whyte & Brown @WhyteAndBrown #Carnaby has already started to feel Christmassy. When do you start your #Christmas shopping? ASOS Menswear @ASOS_Menswear Haters (and by haters we mean scientists) say black isn’t technically a colour. But it’s still our No1 winter hue. Clare Rayner @clarerayner Ever get the feeling that some people almost retweet & favourite your stuff to [sic] much? Fine line between great support and slightly creepy. Alex Hibbert @alexhibbert I’m sure they claim 68% of Earth’s freshwater is in icecaps, but I’m telling you that more than that just fell from the sky above Battersea! The Chap Magazine @TheChapMag “The old don’t want to hear what the young say. They want to make the young hear what they say.” Kingsley Amis

THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p BRIAN WINTERBOURNE, UK SALES MANAGER FOR SIEDENSTICKER AND ANDREW TOMPSETT, HEAD OF UK SALES AND PRODUCT FOR MERC CLOTHING, HAND OVER A CHEQUE ON BEHALF OF THE 39 CLUB FOR £1,200 TO MARK WINSTANLEY, THE CEO OF RETHINK MENTAL ILLNESS.

p HOUSE OF FRASER BUYER LUKE HAYWARD, INSIGHTS MANAGER AT BRITISH COUNCIL PAWEL MANIA, FABRIC PR’S ERALP KORTACH AND SOCIAL MEDIA CONSULTANT KARLMOND TANG AT THE OPENING OF THE STIGHLORGAN: SLG STORE, DALSTON, LONDON.

p RED ALERT’S DAN GRIFFITHS AND SANDEEP MALHOTRA OF FOREVER UNIQUE PICTURED AT THE DIRECTORS DINNER, MANCHESTER, HELD BY THE MANCHESTER FASHION NETWORK IN ASSOCIATION WITH AMETHYST GROUP AND THE CONTACT COMPANY.

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DECEMBER 2014 | PEOPLE | 59

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THE TAP RUNS COLD UKFT and a number of industry associations across the UK have reacted strongly to news that UK Trade & Investment, the government organisation set up to encourage exports, is making an unexpected and immediate cut to the Tradeshow Access Programme (TAP), which supports small and medium enterprises (SMEs) at key international trade fairs. This cut would seriously affect the UK’s exports and economic growth. Why they would want to do that is anyone’s guess; it sounds stupid beyond belief, especially given how much UK fashion exports bring in to the government’s coffers. The cut would eradicate around 50 per cent of the remainder of the TAP programme in the period of January to March 2015, and would be a devastating body blow for a/w fashion – as well as the s/s textiles – selling seasons. In addition, a 100 per cent cut to Key Event funding, which was also announced, would prevent the industry from raising its profile at a number of shows is also being made. In particular, it is the lack of prior warning that does the most harm. In the fashion and textile industry alone, the cut would affect almost 200 eligible SME companies that may not now be supported with grants for key international trade shows, which had been agreed with the UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) and announced over a year ago. Most SME businesses regard TAP as fundamental to their export success and the single most beneficial government policy for industry. The scheme is essential not only for the companies themselves, but also the wider UK economy, as the figures show that for every £1 the government invests in TAP, a minimum of £35 comes back to the country in taxable income. For the fashion and textiles Industry, the ratio is even higher at £40:£1. UKFT is campaigning hard for this cut to be reversed immediately and for a more sensible approach to be brought in for the scheme to support exporters after April 2015. UKFT is also campaigning for the reinstatement grant element of UKTI’s Gateway and Passport to Export

p HAPPY SOCKS X SNOOP DOGG COLLABORATION

t NEW LABEL SOCK & TROTTER

schemes that were cut earlier in the year. For any young UK company, or indeed established brands seeking prosperous new markets, the Tradeshow Access Programme has provided the foot-up to realising such ambitions in the past. For such businesses to have a future in successful exports, this issue needs someone who sees the bigger picture with more clarity than a government accountant crunching numbers, especially when the numbers for such cuts simply don’t add up.

SNOOP DOGG SOCKS ARE NOT JUST FOR CHRISTMAS Swedish sock brand Happy Socks has teamed up with an unlikely source for a capsule range this winter – multi-platinum artist and popular culture icon Snoop Dogg, no less. Apparently Dogg’s love of painting, and his passion for stand-out socks, no doubt, was the inspiration behind the rare collaboration. Bold patterns and prints are, of course, the order of the day in a campaign entitled Happy Socks Presents The Art of Inspiration. The socks have been picked up by Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, John Lewis and Bentalls. Apparently he encountered Happy Socks last year, and they became a part of his everyday wardrobe. Quickly picking up on his love for the socks, the Swedish brand began working with Dogg and his creative team

Cashmere Agency to cultivate the new line. Not sure where the marijuana leaf prints come into the equation, but you can bet your halogen lights they’ll be the high sellers this festive season.

BATTY SEES THE ACCESSORIES LIGHT Continuing the sock theme, well it is the December issue after all, Dean Batty – so long the purveyor, manufacturer and seller of quality outerwear with brands such as Cro’Jack and more recently Edmund Hillary, has turned his attention to the accessories that all dads secretly want for Christmas (but pretend they don’t) – quality socks from his new brand Sock & Trotter. He did in fact show it for the first time at the last Jacket Required, though it’s apparently been a collection that came about due to Japanese demand for a British sock brand. All the socks, men’s and women’s – with hand-linked toes – are made at a factory in England that’s been producing socks for over 100 years, wholesaling between £5.50 and £10.50. Hell, Batty will even throw in a free display stand with initial orders of 60 pairs and over. Once the socks are firmly established, the master plan is to introduce other related accessories such as boxer shorts, scarves, hats and gloves. It seems he’s seen the light that’s telling him it’s the little things that matter the most.

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DECEMBER 2014 | DIRECTORY | 60

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DECEMBER 2014 | PEOPLE | 62

LAST ORDERS WITH... TIM BROWNE Tim Browne, designer for British menswear label Blue Collar Worker, speaks to MWB about the career path that led to his love for denim, and the dream of collaborating with Savile Row favourite Gieves & Hawkes.

D/O/B: 12/ 11/ 1961 Born: Northampton Lives now: North London Twitter: BCW_Clothing Website: www.bluecollarworker.eu

What is your career background prior to coming on board at Blue Collar Worker? I studied tailoring and pattern cutting at the London College of Fashion, and through a consuming interest in denim and its history, I managed to secure various roles in the denim industry, namely at Falmer Jeans, Lee Jeans, Hardcore Jeans, Pepe Jeans and finally Lee Cooper. Since 2000, I have had my own denim design and development consultancy and worked with various brands and denim manufacturers, including Kuyichi, Tommy Hilfiger, Ben Sherman, Quiksilver and Guide London. — Was fashion an industry that you purposely wanted to get into? Initially, looking at the industry from the outside in the late 70s, I was naive enough to assume that all “named” designers made their own clothes (hence the pursuit of tailoring at college) – how wrong I was. Having left college, I was drawn more to the denim industry as I didn’t perceive it as “fashion” per se, but rather an industry that requires the product to be engineered, requiring a full understanding of fabrics, pattern development and fitting, garment construction and finishing. There is an undeniable element of product evolution involved with denim, which I feel requires an almost immersive state of mind in order to grasp the processes fully. It’s not simply a question of churning out a raft of CAD designs, it’s about fully understanding the product and the individual processes involved which, when combined, truly define a good jean. — In terms of design, what do you have in store for a/w 15? For the new season we’ve made a concerted effort to add an extra dimension to our denim offer, and have worked on a section of the range that we are calling Blue Line. The offer is based on four key silhouettes, featuring 16 style and wash options, and we have made every effort to ensure the best price-quality ratio. In terms of inspiration, we have continued to evolve the

British workwear elements of the range, bearing in mind the da Vinci quote, “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” How very true. — Which brands would you like to collaborate with? The tailor in me would love to collaborate with a Savile Row establishment like Huntsman or Gieves & Hawkes, and I’m a great fan of Crombie. Also, working with a great footwear brand on a workwear or denim line would be amazing; so if they were to be British I’d have to say Trickers or Dr Martens, and if they were international, it would have to be Red Wing. — If you could dress anyone in Blue Collar Worker, who would it be? If it was a film star, Gary Oldman. If it was a musician, Paul Simenon, and if it was a sportsman, a young Billy Bonds. — In terms of your personal style, where do you draw your inspiration from? Any era, person or designer in particular? My eldest daughter insists I’m still trying to shake off the 70s punk era, but I prefer to think my style reflects a man growing old disgracefully. For me, it starts with a decent pair of jeans, whether they are worn to death or box fresh, and from there it is more a question of mixing up classic staples, dependent upon what the day has in store. —

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Early bird or night owl? Early bird – I have a dog that needs walking! — Favourite film? The Usual Suspects. — Biggest vice? A curry and cold beer with friends. — Best piece of advice? Stop, look and listen; not only great advice for road safety, but gives you the opportunity to absorb everything that is going on around you – I don’t believe you ever stop learning. — Do you have any mentors? My close friends, and my wife Sue. —

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