MWB MAGAZINE APRIL ISSUE 220 by fashion buyers Ltd

ISSUE 220 | APRIL 2015 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

STEPPING OUT THE KEY TRENDS TO EMERGE IN FOOTWEAR FOR A/W 15 — WERTH THE WAIT PETER WERTH TURNS 40 — SCANDI STYLE ROUNDING UP THE KEY PRODUCT FROM COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK —

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APRIL 2015 | CONTENTS | 03

F E A T U R E S 10

Online Insider Advice, news and issues online

Retail Insider The latest in-store news

The Accord How the safety of garment factories in Bangladesh has progressed

Product news Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock Spring into action

In-season stock Sporting luxury

Hunting togs for the fashion pack Profiling heritage label Filson

Moda Gent: The trends A round-up of the product from the UK show

Sole searching News and developments across the footwear industry

Seasonal footwear shoot The stand-out themes for a/w 15

Accessory focus MWB highlights the key accessory trends

Jacket Required: The people Tom Bottomley catches up with six key exhibitors

Peter Werth revisits its roots The British brand celebrates 40 years

Copenhagen: The product MWB brings together the best of Copenhagen Fashion Week

R E G U L A R S 5 6 14

Comment News Interview Craig Ford

56 59 62

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders Withâ&#x20AC;Ś Dion Nash

Front cover:

Soulland 0045 40129416

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E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com

APRIL 2015 | 05

COMMENT

— D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — S U B

E D I T O R

Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S A L E S

E X E C U T I V E

Fiona Warburton fiona.warburton@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com

With the impending election next month, and last month’s Budget still a topic on everyone’s lips, it would be difficult to write about anything other than political priorities and promises in my column this month. —

— M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2014 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

Despite a review of business rates still a fundamental issue for many businesses – both big and small – there are many other topics on retailers’ political agendas, including tax breaks, National Insurance contributions and employment incentives. After speaking to various retailers over the past month, it was clear to see that many have little, if any, faith in the promises of Cameron, Miliband & Co – especially as most politicians have never actually owned a small business to understand the real issues affecting the industry. With retail making up such a significant proportion of the UK economy, it might be wise for the next political party in power to listen to this sector and, perhaps, as one indie suggested, appoint a minister with experience in running a small business. Introducing incentives to go to work – and work more – could be key, as another retailer I spoke to last month pointed out. “I have members of staff I want to take on full-time and they want to work full-time, but it doesn’t make sense for them to do so because they get more through benefits, and if they work over a certain amount of hours per week, they’ll lose their benefits,” says Chris O’Dea, owner of OD’s in St Helen’s. “That’s a paradox.” Whatever the outcome of May’s election, only time will tell if the political party in power will merely offer lip-service and stand by as manifestos turn into empty promises, as many predict. On a different note, this issue of MWB acts as your comprehensive guide to the key themes across footwear and accessories for a/w 15 – including our seasonal footwear shoot on p37. You can also expect to find stand-out product from the UK to Scandinavia as we round-up the highlights of Jacket Required, Moda and Copenhagen Fashion Week. As always, if you have any comments on this month’s issue or the industry as a whole, either email myself or tweet the team @mwbmagazine. Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

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APRIL 2015 | NEWS | 06

N E W S

HARVEY NICHOLS OPENS IN AZERBAIJAN

EAST AND WEST CREATE BUZZ AT THE HUB Leading retailers from Hong Kong, Korea, Thailand and mainland China were among the visitors to last month’s edition of Hong Kong trade show The HUB, which showcased around 95 brands and mixed well-known Western names with emerging Asian talent. Launched in summer 2013, The HUB was the first trade show in Asia dedicated exclusively to branded fashion, conceived to bring both Western and locally based brands into contact with the steadily growing number of multi-brand retailers in the Asia-Pacific region. Now in its fourth season, the event has built a key following among both fashion independents and department stores, with the likes of Hong Kong’s Lane Crawford, D-Mopp and Bauhaus Group, as well as China’s Great Eagle Department Stores, Fei Space and The Fashion Door in attendance at this season’s show. Simon Tennant, sales director at British footwear label Sanders, which was taking part in The HUB for the third time, says the event has played a key role in developing the brand’s business in the region. “When we first did the show 18 months ago, we had no business in Hong Kong,” he says. “We now have four accounts all actively selling our shoes, and have also seen accounts from the Philippines, Taiwan, Singapore, Thailand, Australia and China over the three shows.” British heritage brands Gloverall and Fox Umbrellas and footwear label Gola Classics were among the other British exhibitors taking part in the event, which also featured European and US brands including Swims, Fiver, Whyred and Esperos. Showing for the second time this season was a group of young Hong Kong-based designers taking part under the Fashion Farm Foundation banner – a local not-forprofit organisation established to nurture and promote local talent. Making its debut, meanwhile, was a group of young designers from Korea, a country whose government is actively investing in the overseas promotion of its indigenous fashion design talent. The HUB co-founder Richard Hobbs says that in addition to the presence of international names, new local designers are playing a key role in the development of the show, and of the fashion industry across the Asia Pacific region. “Asia is becoming a real hothouse for new design talent, and it’s generating a lot of interest from retailers within the region,” he says. “Having these designers as part of The HUB is a draw for buyers and a great story for regional press, all of which boosts the opportunities for all of our exhibitors.” The next edition of The HUB will take place in August at the same location of D2 Place, Kowloon.

—

Harvey Nichols has opened a new store in Baku, Azerbaijan, located at Globus Plaza shopping mall in central Nasimi district. Creating employment for 500 permanent and full-time staff, Harvey Nichols Baku boasts 110,000 sq ft over seven floors. Home to over 500 international designer brands across womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, bridal, perfumery and cosmetics, it also provides a hospitality offer designed to appeal to the Baku customer. “We are delighted to be opening a store in Azerbaijan, our first in the region,” says Stacey Cartwright, group chief executive of Harvey Nichols. “This market is fast becoming one of the top luxury retail destinations in the world and we are excited to offer the ultimate in luxury shopping and hospitality to the discerning customer in Baku.” —

NOTONTHEHIGHSTREET.COM APPOINTS NEW CEO Online marketplace Notonthehighstreet.com has appointed Simon Belsham as its new CEO. Belsham joins the company in May 2015 from Tesco, where he was MD of Grocery Home Shopping for Tesco.com. “We are thrilled Simon has agreed to join us,” says Holly Tucker MBE, co-founder and president of Notonthehighstreet.com. “He will bring great experience and energy to the role. “When we founded the business we wanted to help the countless, talented and creative independent designers and suppliers that we have in this country,” she continues. “Simon’s entrepreneurial background and commitment to SMEs will fit well with the ethos and ambitions we have developed at Notonthehighstreet.com. We know the company is in the right hands to continue to change the face of UK enterprise by supporting growing small companies. I am delighted to welcome Simon to the business.” —

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APRIL 2015 | NEWS | 07

IN BRIEF

JACKET REQUIRED RELEASES S/S 16 DATELINE

BUDGET 2015 HIGHLIGHTS

Premium menswear show Jacket Required will keep its favoured mid-week dateline, with its ninth edition taking place on 29-30 July 2015. For s/s 16 the event will also welcome buyers through a new entrance to The Old Truman Brewery via Hanbury Street, incorporating additional space for the new season. Confirmed brands include Edwin, Gant Rugger and Wolsey, with the invitation-only event set to welcome buyers and members of the press from the UK and Ireland along with attracting further key stores from across Europe, Hong Kong, Japan, the US and Russia. Last season saw the likes of Liberty, Start, Trunk Clothiers, Kafka and The Liquor Store were representative of the UK buyers for the a/w 15 edition, with increased overseas interest including Tenue de Nimes (Netherlands), Royal Cheese (France), Journal Standard (Japan), Fott (Russia) and Hickorees (US). —

A “radical review of business rates” was one of the key points in last month’s Budget, the last before the general election in May. Chancellor George Osborne confirmed that the current system was outdated and that reform was needed, with further announcements due for 2016. With that he echoed the call from business leaders for a drastic overhaul of the tax, which many see as a crippling burden to the prosperity of business and the high street. The Chancellor also announced a pilot scheme, allowing Greater Manchester Council and Cheshire East as well as Cambridge and Peterborough to keep 100 per cent of additional business rates collected above existing forecasts, and encouraged other councils to come forward to join the initiative. —

£50M REFURBISHMENT FOR MEADOWHALL

PELIPOD LAUNCHES ACROSS UK

Yorkshire shopping destination Meadowhall is marking its 25th birthday with a £50m internal refurbishment. The renovation will help reposition Meadowhall, ensuring it remains a modern shopping environment, which is locally preferred by both retailers and consumers. Set to commence in autumn 2015 and be completed by the end of 2017, the refurbishment will see extensive works create distinct districts within the centre, each with a different finish, including wood and punctured metal. The works will largely be completed out of hours to enable all retail and leisure operators to trade throughout the period. Highlights will include new mall seating and lighting, as well as the installation of dramatic lighting artwork. It will also enable a number of retailers to install double-height shop fronts. —

Last month saw the launch of the Pelipod – a smart home-delivery box designed to overcome the problem of consumers missing deliveries of online purchases. The box – which is secured outside the customer’s home – is accessed by the courier via a unique code, which in turn alerts the consumer that the delivery has been made via email. The system can also be used in reverse for the collection of returns. “Research tells us that over half of all UK consumers will avoid shopping online due to the current home delivery experience often being poor,” says Karl Wills, Pelipod’s CEO. “At Pelipod, we feel that home delivery should work without forcing the consumer to wait in for an online order or trek to a collection point if they missed the delivery.” —

JOCKEY LAUNCHES LIMITED-EDITION COLLECTION Underwear specialist Jockey is celebrating its 80th anniversary by launching a limited-edition Y-Front® collection. On sale from September, the range will be available in six different colourways, with the brand manufacturing just 1,000 pairs in each colour, available online and in selected stores. Drawing on classic shapes, the range includes Y-Front® short trunks in blue, red and grey, as well as prints including checks and stripes. Jockey has also created a unique print using retro brand ads from across the years. “Jockey is very much looking forward to the release of the Limited Edition range,” says Ruth Stevens, senior brand and marketing manager. “It’s a fantastic way to celebrate the rich history of the brand and the impact it has had on underwear design.” — BFC LAUNCHES REPORT ON HIGH-END AND DESIGNER MANUFACTURING The British Fashion Council (BFC), alongside the UK Fashion & Textiles Association (UKFT), Creative Skills Set and Marks & Spencer, has announced the launch of the High-end & Designer Manufacturing Report (www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/ manufacturingreport). The report was commissioned as part of the BFC’s strategic goal to protect and develop the UK’s reputation as the best place to start, develop and grow a designer fashion business. The findings suggest a 65 per cent increase in demand for UK made high-end product over the next five years, which would in turn would deliver an additional turnover of £400m and support a further 1,700 jobs across the UK. It also highlights the need for manufacturing benchmarking, shows the highly fragmented state of the manufacturing sector and emphasises the need for a coordinated approach from relevant stakeholders. “A concerted effort to rebuild the UK’s fractured manufacturing capacity for the fashion sector requires action from both industry and policy makers to support recommendations made within the report,” says Caroline Rush, CBE, British Fashion Council. “Underpinning opportunities around manufacturing will not just see job and wealth creation, but also help British fashion designers to work with British suppliers based on proximity, price competition and skilled labour while also enjoying the currency of the Made in England label.” — BURBERRY TO ADD FOOD AND GIFTING TO FLAGSHIP STORE Heritage and luxury label Burberry is preparing to expand its London flagship store on Regent Street this year. The new expansion will include a new area, which will focus on the label’s gifts and gifting, as well as an indoor café. The extension is expected to open this spring. The café, as well as the gifting area, will be exclusive to Burberry’s 121 Regent Street flagship store, as the label has no additional plans at this time to introduce the expansion to other stores. —

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APRIL 2015 | NEWS | 08

IN BRIEF

NEW PROFESSIONAL NETWORK FOR CREATIVE INDUSTRIES

JULES SEES CONTINUED GROWTH

Hiive.co.uk, a new networking, collaboration, and jobfinding tool for UK creatives, has launched to offer creative job opportunities from leading employers across the UK. Attracting just under 10,000 members since launching, Hiive is set to announce 100 new job placements listed for its members, joining the likes of the BBC, Google and Sky to list on the site. “Hiive was born out of the success of the creative industries,” says Hiive creative editor Ciaran Burke. “The industries grew by almost 10 per cent in 2013, representing 5.6 per cent of UK jobs. If we include creative roles in non-creative sectors, this amounts to 2.6 million jobs, or one in 12 of all UK jobs. We needed an online platform that could champion these people, encourage the growth of the creative industries, and get creatives talking to one another within and across the different sectors.” —

British lifestyle label Joules has delivered another period of strong growth, with total revenue surging 21.3 per cent to £96.3m, and profit before tax and exceptional items growing by 23.3 per cent to £5.1m. Retail sales from stores achieved a 36 per cent growth during the year, balanced across travel locations, towns and regional shopping centres. Wholesale, the most established channel of distribution, meanwhile, continued to experience good growth, up five per cent against the comparable period in the prior year. A key pillar of its growth strategy is capitalising on the significant international opportunity for the Joules brand through considered overseas expansion primarily through wholesale. International sales increased by 46 per cent during the period and are up a further 74 per cent in the year to date, driven by particularly strong customer reactions in the US and Germany. —

BHS SOLD FOR £1

VM & D CELEBRATES 25TH ANNIVERSARY

British department store BHS has been sold for £1 in a deal completed by Sir Philip Green last month. The low price paid by investment firm Retail Acquisitions reflects the losses that the chain has made in recent years, although the company was sold debt-free to its new owners. “I am pleased we have found a buyer that wants to develop the BHS brand,” says Green. “Having acquired the business in March 2000, one of my clear objectives in identifying a purchaser was ensuring their desire to take the business forward.” Industry experts have, however, warned that the store’s new owners face a challenge in turning around the fortunes of the ailing store. “BHS has struggled to adapt to the digital age and increasing competition on the high street,” says Joshua Raymond, chief market strategist at broker City Index. “The challenge faced by Retail Acquisitions is monumental.” —

This season sees the Retail Visual Merchandising & Display Show celebrate its 25th year with a landmark edition at London’s Business Design Centre. Targeting retailers in particular, the event brings together an exclusive range of products designed to help those in their trade maximise their branding across a range of media. Covering the mannequin, print, display, props, graphics, lighting and fabric sectors, the Visual Merchandising & Display Show will host a record number of exhibitors this year, and has expanded into the Centre’s upper design gallery. This edition will also see the continuation of the event’s Underground Network, following its successful debut last year. In celebration of its 25th anniversary, the show will also host a free champagne bar across all three days of the event. —

XIU.COM EYES UP EUROPEAN BRANDS TO BRANCH OUT INTO CHINA Xiu.com, one of the leading online fashion retailers in China has announced the expansion of its logistic networks into Europe, following its first foray into the US and Hong Kong, as the e-tailer aims to introduce more European brands into China. The fashion e-tailer has already established office and warehouses in the UK and Italy with the aim to help local brands enter China to satisfy the increasing middle class in China, which is predicted to become the next consumption superpower. According to the China National Garment Association, fashion has become the largest section of the e-commerce market in the country, with online shoppers spending $100bn on apparel items in 2014, a 42 percent increase from 2013. “The frenzy passion for fashion from Chinese shoppers is a great opportunity for multinational brands who are seeking global expansion,” says Ji Wenhong, Founder and CEO of Xiu.com. “We found Chinese Customers are evolving. The first generation of Chinese online consumers, who are mostly in the ages from 25 to 35 years old, are starting to pursue high quality lifestyle products and demand premium products and services. “As a leading fashion online retailer, Xiu.com is dedicated to bring more high quality products into China.” — £300 NAMED AS THE MAGIC PRICE TAG According to new research released last month, £300 has been named as the magic price tag that bridges attainabilit y and luxury. Designers such as Michael Kors, Fendi and Ralph Lauren have seen lines priced around £300 soar in popularity, as women strive to save up for one key item that adds an element of designer luxury to their wardrobe. The findings indicate that while designers’ core preserve may always be those who can afford a four-figure price tag, there is room within collections for pieces that target the mass-market shopper. — DIGITAL PAYMENTS OVERTAKE CASH Last month, cashless methods finally outstripped monetary transactions, according to the Payments Council. The number of cash transactions will drop to just under 13 billion by 2023, while the number of cashless transactions is predicted to soar to over 27 billion. These figures, however, only depict the volume of transactions, rather than their value. Value-wise, cashless payments have long outstripped cash payments because cards are generally used for bigger purchases. The biggest impact for retailers is likely to be where small value transactions are concerned. Payments of under £20 are typically the preserve of the cash consumer but, following the advent of contactless payment smaller value transactions are increasingly being made electronically. The Payments Council, however, is adamant that cash will never die out completely. —

Heart of Fashion

Woman Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories Footwear Gent

9-11 August 2015 Moda, NEC Birmingham Apply to exhibit at moda-uk.co.uk

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APRIL 2015 | ADVICE | 10

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: CONVERTING CONVERSATIONS: HOW EMBRACING REVIEWS CAN BOOST REVENUES

PETER SIMPSON is chief marketing officer at Reevoo www.reevoo.com

For today’s digitally connected shopper, there has never been more opportunity to create and share content about the products or services they consume. However, traditionally, brands have shied away from fully exploiting such content, usually for fear of negative implications. In this month’s Online Insider column, we explore how fashion retailers can take control of user-generated content to drive customer advocacy and nurture stronger, more profitable relationships. While word-of-mouth is no new phenomenon, it is still one of the most trusted forms of advertising, with 70 per cent of consumers trusting peer-topeer recommendations over professional written sources1. Moreover, with the rise of social media, user-generated content has grown exponentially; Facebook receives 2.4 million new posts every minute2, while Millennials spend a third of their media time consuming user-generated content3. By embracing genuine reviews, retailers can treat customer feedback as a listening tool to gain valuable insights into not just what their customers think, but also how they feel, at each stage of the buying process. They can then engage in a two-way conversation by responding to opinions – both positive and negative – to add value to customer interactions, adapt processes in response to customer expectations and take back control of brand conversations. What’s more, retailers looking to build trust among potential customers can incorporate validated user-generated content across their channels; for instance, running real-time reviews on their website, encouraging feedback in-store or engaging customers via social media. Bringing customer authenticity to communications can foster deeper loyalty. In fact, conversion rates among customers who read reviews are on average 3.2 times higher than those who don’t4. Once conversations have started with consumers, fashion brands can move towards creating communities based around verified feedback, transforming happy customers into brand advocates. For example, in addition to incorporating customer feedback into collateral, retailers can encourage peer-to-peer “ask an owner” programmes, in which loyal customers fly the flag for their brand.

1 www.thinkwithgoogle.com/articles/the-path-to-purpose.html 2 http://www.domo.com/blog/2014/04/data-never-sleeps-2-0/ 2 3 http://mashable.com/2014/04/09/millennials-user-generated-media/ 4 Reevoo, December 2014

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WEB WATCH

WWW.THEHIPSTORE.CO.UK With a recent relaunch, one of Leeds’ finest indies, The Hip Store, has an online presence that is now just as directional as its bricks-and-mortar space. Featuring a complete selection of brands from its extensive menswear portfolio, alongside a new arrivals and coming soon tab, the website captures the Hip DNA perfectly. Shoppers can expect to find a Live Chat element integrated throughout, as well an online mix-tape from the some of the store’s favourite artists. —

NEWS

SHOPPING APP PROMISES SEAMLESS EXPERIENCE A new mobile shopping app promises to streamline the process of purchasing fashion on a smartphone by combining a Tinder-style interface and universal shopping basket. The Edit app, available for free on iPhone and Android, is the first of six apps to launch from the Bijou platform in 2015, and allows consumers to buy any of the 70,000-plus products available from more than 200 UK high-street and designer brands with a single, secure order. The Edit was launched at London Fashion Week in an innovative collaboration with designer Charli Cohen. Bijou, which owns and has developed The Edit, is part of the Blenheim Chalcot group, a portfolio of over 20 businesses in a variety of sectors, including IT services and outsourcing, financial services, education, travel, software, sport and media. Focusing on a platformled approach, the company can deploy apps to serve the needs of different market segments, from fast fashion through luxury to kidswear. The platform can support both single and multi-brand apps, as well as own-brand, co-brand and whitelabel versions. “Smartphones have simplified and streamlined the way people organise themselves, learn, play and socialise. It’s time customers were given the same experience when they shop,” says Blenheim Chalcot co-founder Charles Mindenhall. — SHOP DIRECT LAUNCHES PREMIUM SITE Shop Direct has launched its first luxury website, VeryExclusive.co.uk, which will feature a handpicked edit of over 100 premium high-street brands, contemporary and luxury designers and 45 beauty labels. Joining the group’s multi-brand portfolio alongside Very.co.uk, Isme. com and Littlewoods.com, the offering will span Marc Jacobs, Carven, Vivienne Westwood, Reiss, Karen Millen, Stila, Ren, Miller Harris and By Terry. My-wardrobe.com founder Sarah Curran MBE will lead Shop Direct Group’s first foray into the luxury market as the managing director of Very Exclusive. Bringing their luxury retailing experience to the table, Harvey Nichols’ Vikki Kavanagh and former Harrods beauty GMM, Clare Morgan, are two of several high-profile appointments by Curran to support the launch. —

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APRIL 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 12

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

VIEWPOINT ASH SINGADIA is the owner of Rogue Menswear in Bexley Heath and is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB)

COVENT GARDEN TRIPLES MENSWEAR OFFER Covent Garden is set to triple its menswear offer with a new lifestyle hub located on Henrietta Street, welcoming names such as Edwin, Nigel Cabourn, Oliver Sweeney, The Real McCoy’s and Fred Perry. The announcement forms the first phase of an 18-month plan to transform 20,000 sq ft of space on Henrietta Street into a new hub of leading international brands. The street will boast a roster of exclusive, emerging and established labels, and a wide range of collections from premium streetwear to casual suiting. “Men are more discerning than ever about where they shop,” says Beverley Churchill, creative director of Capco Covent Garden. “They want to have more choice and they want to be the first to discover new brands and collections. We felt there was a real gap in the market for a modern alternative to other traditional tailoring-led destinations. “Henrietta Street offers brands an accessible base in the centre of London to reach existing customers, and an opportunity to convert many new customers in one of London’s highest footfall locations.” — IN BRIEF £50M REFURBISHMENT FOR MEADOWHALL Yorkshire shopping destination Meadowhall, which is jointly owned by British Land and Norges Bank Investment Management, is marking its 25th birthday with a substantial, £50m internal refurbishment. The refurbishment will help reposition Meadowhall, ensuring it remains a modern shopping environment, which is locally preferred by both retailers and consumers. Set to commence in autumn 2015 and complete by the end of 2017, the refurbishment will see extensive works create distinct districts within the centre, each with a different finish, including wood and punctured metal. —

SLAM CITY SKATES INCREASES SEVEN DIALS PRESENCE Shaftesbury PLC has announced that Slam City Skates, the skateboard clothing and equipment brand, is relocating to a larger store within Seven Dials. The label is to up-size from its current site at 16 Neal’s Yard to a new 1,653 sq ft store at 37 Endell Street and will be launching its new concept design. The store, due to open in the spring, will add to the strong line-up at the gateway to Seven Dials including unique and long-standing retailers such as American Classics and Ten Cases, an independent wine merchant. —

It’s been a busy few weeks here. We’ve been managing a major refit while taking deliveries for spring. At the moment, we have the ground floor and first floor dedicated to menswear, but the basement will soon house our new womenswear division. Amid all of this, I’ve been attending the trade shows. I visited Jacket Required, which I felt was the best it’s been for a few years. It’s no longer cost-effective for me to visit Berlin, so the shows closer to home are increasingly important to me. There’s no denying retail is tough. We have been here for 11 years and, although we are located in a good commuter belt, it’s imperative that we keep evolving, adapting and moving forward. We’ve cast our net wide in terms of our customer base, which gives us a buffer when things are slow. Our customer age ranges from 16 to 65. The ground floor is dedicated to our urban and contemporarywear, which includes Nike footwear, Billionaire Boys Club and other urban brands, while the first floor houses the cleaner, more classic brands such as Armani, Versace, Lagerfeld and smaller brands such as NQT. It’s helpful to have a mix of demographics, since it allows us to embrace the next generation as well as the older customer, who is likely to have more disposable income. For a/w 15 we are looking to buy into more premium brands such as Stone Island and Moncler. I think footwear could be prominent for us going forward, so I’ve been investigating options there, too. From considering new collections to publishing the arrival of current ones, I find social media a valuable resource. We integrate our Instagram, Twitter and Facebook accounts and interact with our customers on everything from what’s happening locally to the arrival of a new collection in-store. Receiving feedback and delivering posts are instantaneous on these platforms, so it’s hugely helpful for us to gauge what’s going on and react to it. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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APRIL 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 13

SHOPPED: DAVID FAIRTHORNE Have you made any big changes to your business recently? We’ve streamlined the business by closing the existing menswear shop and relocating menswear into one store with the womenswear. We’ve opened the first floor, a 900 sq ft space that was a stock room, for the womenswear, and put the menswear on the ground floor. We’ve also put in a new staircase. It’s harder to get men to walk through a women’s floor to go upstairs, so that’s why we put the women’s up there. Menswear sales have improved as a result of the move. — What are you doing about a stock room? DAVID FAIRTHORNE, We own a warehouse as well, so the stock room was a waste OWNER, TRAPEZE, of space. Also, the shops were looking tired and in need CHELTENHAM of refits, so it made sense to do the two existing shops together. The smaller shop is now all sportswear, with the likes of Adidas Originals, Champion, Lacoste Sport and EA7. We launched it last October. It’s early days, but it’s gone down really well. That shop is men’s and women’s, and the Adidas Originals by Rita Ora for women has had a great response. — Does the horse-racing week at Cheltenham help to bring in more customers? It kick-starts the season in terms of the bars, restaurants and hotels taking good money. It’s not necessarily the people coming to town for the races who we benefit from, but the people who work in those industries who do tend to spend money in town afterwards. —

IN FOCUS: THE HAMBLEDON 10 THE SQUARE, WINCHESTER, SO23 9ES

ESTABLISHED: SEPTEMBER 1999 BRANDS: WORKADAY BY ENGINEERED GARMENTS, BEAMS PLUS, IRON HEART, TRICKER’S, NORSE PROJECTS , MERZ B SCHWANEN, ARPENTEUR , BUZZ RICKSON, UNIVERSAL WORKS, CONVERSE FIRST STRING, BARENA, OLIVER SPENCER, LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING, OUR LEGACY, RED WING

BOXPARK CROYDON TO OPEN EARLY 2016 The London Borough of Croydon has announced a major deal to open a new Boxpark Marketplace next to East Croydon train station. Boxpark, which is the world’s first pop-up mall opened in London’s Shoreditch in 2011, has teamed up with Croydon Council, Schroder UK Real Estate Fund (SREF) and Stanhope plc to bring forward a new Boxpark concept at Ruskin Square, Croydon. Work is under way at Ruskin Square, with a two million sq ft mixed-use scheme, with the first phase of 161 homes due to be completed in 2016. Ruskin Square is set to create up to 1.25 million sq ft worth of office accommodation, 625 new homes and more than 100,000 sq ft of retail, café and restaurant space. In line with its Shoreditch forerunner, Boxpark Croydon will focus on small independent retailers to create a unique shopping and dining experience. This will transform the quality of the retail and leisure offer in Croydon and is expected to draw customers and new businesses from across South London, Surrey and Sussex. —

IN BRIEF

The Hambledon is a mini independent department store set in a three-storey listed building, selling not only menswear, but womenswear, homeware and books. “It’s a bit of all the good stuff, and then some,” says menswear buyer Rob Adams, who clearly has a good eye. The main aim is to offer a concise, contemporary and heritage menswear edit in relaxed and friendly surroundings. The building itself is stunning, and the menswear department is situated in a Norman basement. Adams says, “I get to spend my working day walking in the footsteps of William the Conqueror.” He also says they like to think they have unique relationships with their customers, built on years of good service. “Many have been coming in from the day we opened,” says Adams. “We don’t sell menswear online, so it’s all the old-fashioned way – in person. More of a handshake, as opposed to an ‘add to cart’ button.” In terms of buying focus, they adopt an “if we love it we buy it” policy. The menswear business has grown steadily over the last six years, and the store attracts a style-educated customer, many of whom work in London. “They are aware of contemporary brands and know what’s what,” says Adams. —

DENHAM OPENS IN NAGOYA, JAPAN Amsterdam label Denham the Jeanmaker has opened the brand’s latest home-away-fromhome in Nagoya, Japan. The new store, located within Creare, the Design Center Building, will help extend Denham’s presence in the Japanese market. The brand has enjoyed loyal market support and enthusiastic response from consumers since the opening of the first Japanese store in Daikanyama in 2009. The new 160 sq m shop sits nearby regional flagship stores from other European and local brands including APC and Frapbois. —

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APRIL 2015 | INTERVIEW | 14

INTERVIEW

CRAIG FORD Co-founder of Jacket Required, Craig Ford has launched a permanent shop on London’s Marshall Street for the Billionaire Boys Club and ICECREAM brands. He’s also about to open the first a number of names* store at the old A Bathing Ape shop on Upper James Street – which will house a selection of the brands he distributes and other exclusive buy-ins, as Tom Bottomley discovers. — Tom Bottomley: When did you establish a number of names*? Craig Ford: It was in 2008, initially with three brands – Billionaire Boys Club (BBC), Gourmet and Ambush. There was just me and two other members of staff, and now there are around 14 brands and 24 members of staff. We bring all of the labels to the Jacket Required shows. I started off in premises on Shoreditch High Street, above the Present shop, doing everything from sales, PR, marketing, distribution and accounts. The original office is purely a sales showroom, and we have another office around the corner – where the back-end of the business is – as well as an inhouse design, PR and marketing team. — TB: Why did you shut the A Bathing Ape (BAPE) shop on London’s Upper James Street? CF: My contract with BAPE came to an end at the end of February this year. It was a six-year franchise contract that I signed with the original brand owner Nowhere – headed up by fashion designer Nigo. That company was subsequently bought by the Hong Kong fashion conglomerate I.T in 2011 – which kept Nigo on for two years as design director. They were not renewing any franchise agreements, so my time with BAPE is over, though it was an exciting six years. Nigo now concentrates on his Human Made label, which we distribute for Europe. —

FOUNDER A NUMBER OF NAMES*

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TB: Are BBC and ICECREAM still owned by Pharrell Williams? CF: Yes. They used to be joint owned by Pharrell Williams and Nigo, but Nigo sold his shares to Jay-Z. I’ve worked with the brands since they started 12 years ago. I was originally distributor for those labels and, when Nigo sold his shares, it changed the structure of the company, and I became the licensee for Europe. So now I am effectively designing and producing part of the range. They make the main range, but I am allowed to design a percentage of it – which the rest of the world can buy into. — TB: What’s happened to the previous shop? CF: I changed the BAPE store into a temporary BBC and ICECREAM shop, but have now moved it to open a new permanent store on Marshall Street, which I feel is a better location for the brand. It opened mid-March, with a launch party hosted by hip-hop DJ Semtex from Radio 1, with Rejjie Snow, Vic Mensa, The Underachievers and Flatbush Zombies from New York performing live. It was invite only, and it went down really well. Regarding the previous shop on Upper James Street, I’ve been offered a good deal by the landlords to keep it, so I’m currently in the process of opening it as an a number of names* shop. It will carry a handpicked selection of products from most of the brands I distribute, such as TSPTR, Gourmet, Bedwin & The Heartbreakers, Human Made and C.E. It will open around mid-April. — TB: Will there be any exclusives? CF: Yes – we are making special products with those brands that will only be for the store. We’re also bringing in a small selection of other brands from the UK, Japan and the US – which are outside of our stable of brands. I want to have a real point of difference, and they will be unique to our store in Europe. — TB: Why is being on the edge of Soho right for the new BBC and ICECREAM shop? CF: I’ve always considered Soho as the heart of London, ever since I was a kid coming down to London from Glasgow to go to shops such as M-Zone and Duffer of St George. Going back to the 50s and 60s, with shops such as Lord John and so on that happened in and around Carnaby

APRIL 2015 | INTERVIEW | 15

Street, Soho has been the epicentre of fashion and club culture. — TB: Can we expect any further events to promote the shop featuring Pharrell Williams or Jay-Z? CF: They’ve got busy schedules, but they always do stuff for us when they’re in town. It just so happened that our new shop launch wasn’t good timing for them. But when they are next in London we will certainly see if we can do an event. We’ve done parties with Pharrell in London many times before and every time it’s obviously a big draw. — TB: Did you also look at East London? CF: There was a lot of noise surrounding retail in East London, and I seriously looked at shops there, especially since our showroom and offices are already there. But, ultimately, I decided that the rent-to-footfall equation was better value for money in Soho. Also, there was a bit of a spate of openings in East London, but now there’s been a move of really good brands –and multi-brand stores – opening in Soho. Going to Shoreditch to shop now is a bit like going to Camden to shop in the late 80s and early 90s. It’s in travel guides and so on as a destination to visit, but it’s more of a trend thing. Whereas, from an international customer’s point of view, if you come to London you are always going to come to Soho to hang out, eat, drink and shop. Marshall Street certainly appealed because of the rent to footfall ratio. We’ve designed a bright shop with stand-out neon signs that will get us noticed. We’re still a destination shop because we’re just off the main drag, but I think we will have decent passing trade, too. — TB: Which products will you be introducing in the new shop? CF: We always make special products for the EU market. On top of that, we make special products just for our web store. But now we’ve got the permanent retail shop, we’ll be making special products for that, too. A lot of stuff is printable T-shirts and sweatshirts, so we’re going to do some exclusives that you will only be able to get in the store.

There’s going to be a London theme to some BBC branded product. We recently did a T-shirt with UK grime crew Boy Better Know (BBK). We’d been planning to do something with them for quite some time. They performed at Sound Clash at Earls Court, which was a massive event with four different crews competing against each other. BBK won it the previous year, but controversially didn’t this time. However, we did a BBK T-shirt incorporating the BBC logo, which they wore on stage. We sold the T-shirts in store the next day and they sold out in a day. People are still going crazy for those T-shirts, so we’re always looking at opportunities like that which help to raise the profile of the brand in an environment where the brand fits. — TB: How do you find selling two brands in one store? Do people differentiate between BBC and ICECREAM? CF: There are many differences. ICECREAM started from more of a skateboarding angle. Pharrell was into skateboarding, and his nickname was Skateboard P. He used to wear gold chains with mini gold skateboards on them. When he came onto the scene, there weren’t many American rap artists and musicians who were into skateboarding. So he brought those two cultures together. Now there is much more of a culture, but he trail-blazed the way. The “ice” represents diamonds, and “cream” means money. Both brands started around the same time, and were originally the same kind of prices, but now ICECREAM is more accessibly priced, with T-shirts for £35. The style is more streetwear and skate influenced, and all graphic based. BBC is also very graphic based, but there are more expensive fabrics and more of an Ivy League preppy feel. The idea behind BBC was Pharrell playing on the notion that if you can send a man to space, you can do anything. Anyone can achieve anything. Hence the spaceman became the symbol of the brand. At first, it was just Pharrell and Nigo wearing the T-shirts, then they wore them in Pharrell’s Frontin’ video in 2003. It was a global hit, and BBC really took off. Roll forward to 2015 and the new shop, which I’m very excited about.

“I’ve always considered Soho as the heart of London, ever since I was a kid coming down to London from Glasgow to go to shops such as M-Zone and Duffer of St George”

Distributed exclusively through HB Shoes Ltd

HB Shoes Ltd 19 Burrough Court, Burrough on the Hill, Melton Mowbray LE14 2QS Tel: 01664 454920 Email: info@hbshoes.co.uk www.hbshoes.co.uk

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APRIL 2015 | REPORT | 17

THE ACCORD MWB looks at how brands, suppliers and retailers sourcing from Bangladesh can commit to safe factories by signing the Accord – an agreement designed to make all garment factories in Bangladesh safe working environments. — The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh is an independent agreement designed to make all garment factories in Bangladesh safe workplaces. The agreement was created in the immediate aftermath of the Rana Plaza building collapse on 24 April 2013, which led to the death of more than 1,100 people and injured more than 2,000. In June 2013, an implementation plan was agreed, leading to the incorporation of the Bangladesh Accord Foundation in the Netherlands in October 2013. The Accord agreement consists of six key components: 1. A five-year legally binding agreement between brands and trade unions to ensure a safe working environment in the Bangladeshi RMG industry. 2. An independent inspection programme supported by brands in which workers and trade unions are involved. 3. Public disclosure of all factories, inspection reports, and corrective action plans. 4. A commitment by signatory brands to ensure sufficient funds are available for remediation and to maintain sourcing relationships. 5. Democratically elected health and safety committees in all factories to identify and act on health and safety risks. 6. Worker empowerment through an extensive training programme, complaints mechanism and right to refuse unsafe work. Unique aspects of the Accord programme are its very high levels of transparency and legal enforcement. It explicitly outlines the process of dispute resolution in which the outcomes can be reinforced in a court of law. This feature is unique because previously established initiatives involving corporate accountability and labour rights were basically voluntary commitments. Many US companies refuse to sign the Accord based on the legal enforceability, fearing lawsuits. However, the Accord’s legal obligations do not differ much from other business contracts companies routinely close. The fact that over 50 prominent internationally operating companies from Europe and the US did sign the Accord, confirms this. “In the past, many brands have launched similar initiatives to the Accord but have failed,” says Joris Oldenziel, head of public affairs and stakeholder engagement for the Accord. “Those initiatives were not legally binding, and their inspection reports were not published, which often resulted in inadequate follow-ups. All reports for the Accord are published and can therefore be monitored for improvements.” PROGRESS SO FAR Although approaching its two-year mark, the

Accord is still in the early stages of implementation, carrying out safety inspections of the factories. The first batch of 1,103 factories were completed in September 2014, with a second batch of 200 being assessed. After each factory has been inspected for fire, electrical and structural safety, the factory owners and signatory companies develop a Corrective Action Plan (CAP), which is published online after approval by the Accord. The Accord has a team of engineers who monitor progress and verify implementation of CAPs through follow-up visits. After these visits, the CAPs are updated online. “This is just the start,” says Oldenziel. “This is the stage at which the factories are inspected, not improved. We are keeping track of all the issues found on a database, which will then be updated accordingly as and when improvements are made. There are currently 11,000 issues that have been addressed, but there are another 60,000 repairs that have been issued and noted – mainly electrical problems.” The Accord is achieving fire, electrical and structural safety in factories through measures such as certified fire doors and automatic fire alarm systems. By ensuring there are adequate and unobstructed fire exits and by removing excess flammable material from areas where staff are working. Other requirements are rewiring, and sealing of wiring, removal of dust and lint from electrical components, installation of additional circuit boxes and strengthening of columns. It also requests no excess, concentrated weight in factories and for sprinkler systems to be installed in buildings over 23 metres in height. These issues are all classed as “immediate measures needed” and are concerns that can be rectified without closing a factory. So far, the Accord has seen 110 factories that have fallen into this category. Unfortunately, repairs are time consuming, especially if rebuilding or structural problems are involved. Fire hazards – where fire doors and sprinkler systems need installing – take a lot of time. Electrical repairs are easier in comparison and, as the majority of factory fires are caused by electrical faults, many accidents are already being avoided through fixtures taking place. Progress, undoubtedly, is being made. The worst case scenario is if a factory is deemed too unsafe for production to continue, in which case the Accord will issue “immediate evacuation”. Luckily, this is a rare occurrence. “When our staff go for the initial factory inspection, they take samples of the building’s concrete to test its strength,” says Oldenziel. “The quality of the concrete determines whether the building is deemed safe or not. If not, a full detailed engineering assessment will take place. “Less than two per cent of the inspections done so far have resulted in an ‘immediate evacuation’ scenario,” he continues. “This occurs when a factory is so dangerous that work can no longer continue – if the building’s structure is unstable, for example

– and it will close until repairs have been made. It’s the last resort to close a factory for all involved – it’s not good for the workers, the factory or the brands and retailers signed up to the Accord.” REMEDIATION In order to induce factories to comply with upgrade and remediation requirements of the Accord programme, participating brands and retailers will negotiate commercial terms with their suppliers to ensure that it is financially feasible for the factories to maintain safe workplaces and comply with the remediation requirements. If building improvements are required, the signatory brands are responsible for improving safety conditions in their production units. How these improvements are financed is the responsibility of the brand – it either negotiates with its supplier, loans money, or pays for the improvements itself. The Accord’s work is carried out by a team of 50 working in Dhaka, a figure projected to grow to 100 by the end of the year. Currently this team comprises engineers for fire, electrical and structural work and individuals carrying out factory follow-up visits, of which they will visit around 200 per month. Case handlers are responsible for liaising with the brands and factories and processing complaints from factory workers reporting dangerous working conditions to the Accord, which can be done anonymously. There is also training, leadership, and support staff. “We have an office in Dhaka and will be opening another in Chittagong in the future,” says Oldenziel. “Potentially, further offices could open in areas where there are high numbers of factories to allow the Accord staff better access; travel is obviously an issue in those regions.” WHAT NEXT? The Accord will complete in May 2018 and, while considerable progress has been made, the road ahead is still long. What happens when the Accord reaches its end is yet to be decided. Various ideas of what could follow this initiative are currently being considered, much of which is theoretical at this stage, and dependant on what the programme achieves by 2018. Further discussions are expected as the Accord nears the end of its time line, as Oldenziel concludes. “Factors that affect any future plans include how quickly we can get all the factories safe,” he says. “Because the Accord was set up partly due to lack of government inspection, we may, at the end of the process, hand over some of the inspection to the government. There is also the possibility the initiative is extended, or it could go to other countries. New and additional standards could be introduced or it could extend to new sectors. Currently it only covers the Ready Made Garment sector, but given our expertise, it could be rolled out to the textile and leather sector, too.”

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APRIL 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 19

P R O D U C T

AN ITALIAN RESURGENCE When big Italian names were making waves in the UK market in the 80s, Ciao was alongside some of the best. Following a successful edition of Jacket Required, the brand is returning for a/w 15 with a comprehensive collection of tailoring, knitwear, casual options and outerwear. With a strong focus on Italian fabrics and craftsmanship, the key piece for the label is its dogtooth threepiece suit, with a slim-fit cut and attention to detail paramount. The latest range also welcomes the new face of the brand, reality TV star Tommy Mallet, who appears in The Only Way is Essex – designed to attract a younger market who may have been unaware of the brand the first time around. With wholesale prices ranging from £35 to £40, independent stockists include Choice, Reem Clothing and Calandra. —

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RADAR Spotlighting style

EYES ON THE PRIZE Scandinavian streetwear label Our Legacy introduces its first ever sunglasses collection this season. Crafted from Italian Mazzucchelli acetate and with UV 400 lenses from German specialist Carl Zeiss, each pair is handcrafted in a small, family owned factory in Portugal. The frames carry a distinctive yet low-key brand signature, using matte acetate, with the collection comprising three styles – Embrace, Faith and Void. Tones such as bronze, matte indigo and cirrus green are exclusive Our Legacy colours for the new season, together with matte black and crystal. —

THE GOODPEOPLE ESTABLISHED: 2007 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Bespoke graphic patterns including watermelons, whales, maps and palm trees that reflect the fun nature of exotic holidays. — HISTORY: Brand ethos governs that all garments are made in Europe, using refined materials including mercerised cotton, merino wool and cashmere. The GoodPeople’s s/s 15 collection takes its inspiration from the tropical island of Mustique, with pieces translating the spirit of leisure and luxury. The range features a bold colour palette, with colour blocking, stripes and bold bespoke patterns key. The brand’s blazer and matching trouser style is a favourite among customers and returns this season in fresh summer colours. Denim, meanwhile, maintains a faded and washed-out appearance, adding to the relaxed summer look. Summer staples such as polo shirts and T-shirts are made from fine materials including mercerised cotton for added comfort, with graphic detailing creating unexpected design twists. Highlights include a five-pocket chino short and a special-edition blazer featuring a studded lapel. Throughout its previous and existing collections, the label has separated itself from the crowd through its use of attention to detail. Garments feature large mother of pearl buttons and stand-up collars, while buttons that only run halfway down add a playful touch. However, the brand’s trademark is its bold graphic patterns – a reflection of the brand’s constant contrast between classic and contemporary. —

THE VOICE Heritage American tennis brand K-Swiss has joined forces with DJ Diplo to launch a new campaign, entitled The Board. The initiative is set to inspire the next generation of young entrepreneurs. Led by Diplo, the successful applicants will be invited to attend a number of sessions on the programme’s website that will connect them with industry insiders. Each insider will lead a discussion session specific to their expertise, with topics covered including brand positioning, design, social-media promotion and creating a business plan. Tasks designated to applicants will relate to K-Swiss business, with members of The Board making decisions on real projects that K-Swiss will follow. “We believe that consumer aspirations have shifted,” says Barney Waters, chief marketing officer of K-Swiss Global Brands. “The goal has evolved beyond being the fastest runner or a celebrity. Young people want their own brands, their own voice and their own businesses.” —

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APRIL 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 21

PRODUCT NEWS Spotlighting style ZIP IT Accessory brand Bellroy has introduced the Carry Out – a new addition to its Everyday range, made from premium vegetable leather. Designed as a single wallet, which has a removable wallet inside for essentials, it features space for 6-16 cards, a zip closure, and fits a smartphone, passport and pen. —

GOOD FOR THE SOUL Northern label Brave Soul celebrates its continued growth across the young, contemporary fashion market with its latest retail opening in Madrid. Focusing on one of its strongest European markets, the Spanish flagship store offers both its men’s and womenswear range in an impressive lodge-style interior. Committed to showcasing the latest trends of each season, the Brave Soul creative team looks to the likes of Berlin, Amsterdam and Tokyo to add an edge to its British design ethos. Offering both in-season and forward-order product, the brand focuses on high quality while managing the expectations of retailers with quick lead times. —

>>>

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

PUFFA X PRESENT British outerwear label Puffa has collaborated with contemporary menswear retailer Present to create an equestrian-inspired collection. Launched at the a/w 15 edition of Pitti Uomo, the eight-piece range features jackets, gilets, sweaters and bags. The quilted jackets and gilets take their inspiration from jockey’s racing attire, using chevrons and bright block colourways, while the bags and shirts are made in a selection of British tweeds and 100 per cent wool. —

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APRIL 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 22

RADAR Spotlighting style

A BRITISH SUCCESS STORY

LEE MARSH X HAINSWORTH

British accessory specialist Knightsbridge Neckwear continues to go from strength to strength, opening 15 new accounts over the last a/w 15 buying season. Featured on the catwalk at the latest presentation from independent retailer Psyche, the brand has seen significant growth over the last couple of seasons, specifically through its showcase at trade exhibitions, Moda and Jacket Required. The new collection sees inspiration drawn from the 50s, 60s and 70s, featuring polka-dot bow ties and velvet tasselled scarves. —

ESTABLISHED: 2014 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Mix-and-match garments made with Hainsworth fabrics including the mill’s Light Grey Melange, Lightweight Melton, Bright Blue Melton and Ren Field Grey. — HISTORY: After meeting at the London Textile Forum in October last year, Hainsworth and Lee Marsh have collaborated to form a new collection. Leading textile mill Hainsworth and Savile Row bespoke tailor and menswear designer Lee Marsh recently joined forces to launch a new capsule range for a/w 15. The ready-towear line includes garments designed to be mixed and matched for ultimate flexibility. The collection’s grey suit, for instance, is designed to be interchangeable so it can be worn with other items in the range. Clothes are made from fine fabrics selected from Hainsworth, including the Yorkshirebased mill’s Light Grey Melange and Ren Field Grey, among others. One of Britain’s oldest textile mills, Hainsworth has experienced growing interest from top fashion designers in the UK and overseas. Marsh says, “I fell in love with Hainsworth when I was working for Gieves & Hawkes, so I’m delighted about the collaboration. Hainsworth’s heritage and history closely matches the history of a Savile Row suit. Until now, I’d only ever used its Grey Melange Melton as an under-collar suit fabric, but I had an idea to use it to make a whole suit. It’s such a soft and moveable fabric that it’s perfect to be used in this way. It is also a warm fabric, so it’s just right for winterwear.” —

IN BRIEF DREADY RELAUNCHES The iconic clothing brand Dready is back with a relaunch of its products, following its popularity with customers in the 80s and early 90s. After undergoing a creative refresh, the label, along with Florence & the Machine guitarist and backing vocalist Rob Ackroyd, has brought the designs back to life via the new line, entitled Dready Originals Collection. Following a 20-year hiatus, the brand returns with a new line of T-shirts made in the UK. Designs reflect Dready’s main inspiration of art, music and politics, and provide insight into the label’s background and culture. —

‘‘

A great shirt says something about the person wearing it. It expresses an attitude and a take on life. A truly great shirt is a positive attitude in itself. That’s the only kind of shirt I want to be in”

Carl Thompson

Hawkins & Shepherd www.hawkinsandshepherd.com Carl Thompson sales@pincollarshirts.co.uk +44 7957 604 906

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APRIL 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 24

BOOMERANG £72 01252 725200

HANCOCK £242 07773 775092

STONE ISLAND £146 020 7608 9100

OLD SALT £29.99 01924 375651

PARKA LONDON £48.50 020 7424 6889

REALM & EMPIRE £90 01858 466607

CAMEL ACTIVE £68 0161 234 0999

SPRING INTO ACTION Lightweight outerwear is key for transitional months, with this season’s offer spanning windcheaters, quilted jackets, suede bombers and Harringtons. Although palettes remain subtle, expect the odd injection of pop colours. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

BEN SHERMAN £120 020 7812 5300

AIGLE £88 01608 813860

HACKETT LONDON PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7939 6987

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APRIL 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 26 NATIVE YOUTH £10 020 7739 7620

ALPINESTARS £32 01869 366580

BOXFRESH £18 07801 759852

SPORTING LUXURY Retaining a minimal design ethos, sports-inspired pieces continue to dominate casualwear going into the new season, with garish prints replaced with pared-down detailing and a colour palette of black, grey, navy and white. —

NICCE £21.60 07867 521987

SAMSOE & SAMSOE £34.60 020 3137 3901

CHEAPO £14 0114 249 3037

WEEKEND OFFENDER £48.14 0133 2614 755

BELLFIELD £10 020 7739 7620

WESC £26 01271 865600

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

COTE & CIEL PRICE ON REQUEST 0033 153013962

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APRIL 2015 | PROFILE | 28

HUNTING TOGS FOR THE FASHION PACK Filson first made kit for the gold rush miners in Seattle in 1897, swiftly moving into making clothing for the hunting, logging and fishing markets. Nowadays, it still supplies the outdoor market with its unique products, and still manufactures most of it in Seattle. But the fashion pack and a different distribution network has also been on its radar in more recent times, especially since the takeover by private equity firm Bedrock Manufacturing Co in 2012, as Tom Bottomley discovers from Filson president Gray Madden. —

When Clinton C Filson opened C.C. Filson’s Pioneer Alaska Clothing and Blanket Manufacturers in Seattle in 1897, as the outfitter to prospectors of the Klondike Gold Rush, little would he have realised that well over a century later his Filson brand would be beloved by the fashion pack, as well as the shooting pack for which it is more accustomed. Filson traditionally made, and indeed makes, clothing suitable for extremely harsh conditions, with comfort protection and durability the focus. It just so happens that they are very stylish with it, as anyone who has trawled through vintage shops in America will have no doubt noted over the years. Filson’s bags and accessories have also become immensely popular, with style-leading UK shops such as Oi Polloi, End Clothing, The Content Store and The Hambledon among its UK stockists. And a new line of watches are launching in the brand’s own London store on Newburgh Street this spring, made in the Shinola factory in Detroit. Shinola is now a sister label, also purchased by Bedrock.

Gray Madden, Filson’s president, was on hand at the Liberty Fair Made in USA area at Pitti Uomo in January, telling the brand’s story like he’d been part of the Filson furniture for decades. He’s only been with the company a little over a year, but he is clearly all-encompassed by its heritage and quality. “There are not a lot of brands in the menswear industry that are so iconic,” he says. “The trick for us is that we’re really keeping it about our core product. Filson in the UK is as it is in America. We have one collection, not different collections for different markets.” Madden is proud to say they have two factories in Seattle – the original factory and retail shop, and a second newer, state-of-the-art factory with all of their offices upstairs. When so many US brands moved off-shore to produce, Filson stayed at home. It has wisely utilised this as a unique selling point. Says Madden, “We’ve got 10,000 sq ft of manufacturing space downstairs in the newer premises, and 15,000 sq ft in the original factory. But we needed a greater production capacity, because business has been so terrific, so we’ve bought a third factory in Idaho. We

found a great factory that was making quality apparel for other people, so now we’re operating it ourselves.” He reveals that, in Seattle, they also have an 8,000 sq ft showroom space that they’re going to turn into a retail space this autumn. “Combined with another 12,000 sq ft space – in the same building where our factory is on Ist Avenue – it’s going to be like the Disney Land of Filson,” says Madden. “People will be able to come in, see their bags made on the ground floor, go upstairs and have a bit of lunch – we’re talking to a restaurant partner now – and shop.” The brand is known for its outerwear and bags, but it’s only been in the bag business for around 20 years. Yet it’s the bags that are how a lot of people have got to know about the brand. “You’re going to spend a bit more money, because we don’t want to be the cheapest; we want it to be the best quality,” says Madden. “Our stuff is always guaranteed, and we have pieces that people just want to pull out season after season. A customer’s entrance to the label is a bag, then they graduate to the other products.”

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With a brand so established, indeed entrenched, in the worlds of hunting, shooting and fishing, it’s intriguing that it has now reached out to a wider market, where function meets fashion, so to speak. A sign that people really are after genuine product that has substance and a story to it. “We still think of ourselves as a 118-year-old secret,” says Madden. The brand was bought a couple of years ago by a private equity company called Bedrock. The owner of the company likes the Flintstones, hence the name. He saw the opportunity for Filson on a world stage. We have never had to press the gas too hard on making the brand fashionable, because the quality stands for itself.” Madden, who worked for 12 years as a buyer for US department store institution Neiman Marcus, says a lot of style-leading guys would no doubt have picked up on the brand from buying vintage Filson pieces, such as the Mackinaw Cruiser jacket – originally designed for loggers. “But you can buy a brand new one from us because we’ve really kept the same pieces in our collections year after year. They’re our classics. And we’ve done a great thing by not overdistributing the brand, so it still feels special. But we are now certainly creating more awareness of the brand, and made in the USA down jackets are a new area for us.” Filson opened the shop on Newburgh Street in London just over a year and a half ago. Madden says they wanted people to really feel the brand, and the best way to get that brand awareness is to go into a Filson shop. “You need to see what the label looks and feels like, especially in London – so far away from the home office in Seattle,” he says. London became a target location because

APRIL 2015 | PROFILE | 29

“People will be able to come in, see their bags made on the ground floor, go upstairs and have a bit of lunch – we’re talking to a restaurant partner now – and shop”

they saw from their own website business, and through their direct catalogue business, that they were shipping so many things overseas to London. “And we already had an established wholesale business in the UK, with some very strong independent stockists,” says Madden. “The bigger box retailers have to play the markdown game, and the margin game, but we would just rather do regularly priced business and we find that when we deal with independents it makes it a lot easier.” Now the brand is looking at growing both its wholesale and retail business in the UK and in Europe. Madden says that the London shop has proved so successful that they now need more square footage. “We need to double it, and that is in the pipeline soon with an additional space, possibly on Newburgh Street, too, being eyed. Within another two years I’d say we’ll have a real flagship shop in London as well. It’s getting the balance right between getting a decent level of footfall, but also being a destination shop. That’s why Newburgh Street has worked out so well for us.” According to Madden, another key selling point for the brand is that its products are “100 per cent guaranteed for life.” If anything goes wrong with something they will apparently repair it, or replace it. “Everything that Filson makes is, and always has been, made for life,” he says. What’s more, all of their wholesale accounts can stand in front of their customers and give them the same guarantee, because they will back them up on that. “We even take back bags that are 20

years old, and repair or replace them,” says Madden. “We’ve also had instances where some guy has passed away, and his wife has sent in his vintage Filson garments with a note saying, “Thanks for looking after him for so long.” We repair those pieces and put them in our archive, because we know they’re so special.” Back in traditional Filson territory, the brand exhibits at the SHOT show in Las Vegas. SHOT stands for Shooting, Hunting, Outdoor and Tactical. “We have a good hunting business with Filson, and you can really see a crazy swamp of customers there. Not only with the hunting guys, but with the guys who are into the technical side, which is really military driven. That section is in a different hall to ours, and you have to go through security to get into it. They don’t let you bring any guns and ammunition into the hall because I think it gets a bit scary!” Madden says that, as a brand, Filson grew up in America in independent stores. Outfitters who supply what they call “the hook and bullet guys”, the guys for fishing and those for shooting. “Whether or not it’s true shooting for hunting, or guys who are shooting for sport, we definitely support those businesses. And you get a lot of independents who go to the SHOT show and come to see us there. They’re not fashion guys – they’re real outdoors guys, so they wouldn’t come to see us at the Liberty Fair, and they wouldn’t know what to do with themselves at London Collections: Men.” Maybe not, but hunting bloggers might not be such a bad idea for a new sport.

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APRIL 2015 | TRENDS | 30

A SHAWL THING Shawl collars were prevalent throughout the show this season, from shawl-neck jumpers to chunky knit casual cardigans. The jumper, designed to be worn with flashes of colour underneath, offered detailing such as toggle fastenings, while the slim-fit shawl-neck cardigan offered an alternative to regular styles. Interest came from cable knits, contrast trim and ribbed sleeves. —

MODA GENT: THE TRENDS GLOVERALL

MWB was on hand at the a/w 15 edition of Moda Gent to pick some of the key themes for the new season, spanning shirting, knitwear and outerwear. —

CARL GROSS

ITALLO DIGEL

FARAH

BRAX PETER SCOTT

PETER GRIBBY

MORLEY

BENVENUTO

RETURN OF THE QUILT A strong trend for outerwear last winter, the quilted jacket returns for another season across both mainstream and contemporary labels. Texture plays an important role, with ribbed-knit contrast sleeves, fleece hood lining and leather detailing used throughout. While colours are typically autumnal, injections of primary red offer a brighter alternative. —

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SQUARING UP Although hardly a new addition to menswear, country inspired blazers moved away from the popular tweed styles of last season and welcomed the use of oversized square surface patterns. While some were bolder in design than others, with contrasting weaves, most brands offered a subtle option in both single and double breasted silhouettes. —

LIZARD KING

ETERNA

CAMEL ACTIVE

OLYMP

MCGREGOR

SCHNEIDERS

DIGEL

TIMBERLAND

DOUGLAS

DOUBLE TWO

WESTBROOK 7 MENSWEAR

RAGING BULL

PRINT AND SIGN

PARKA POISE

Intricate prints were the order of the day when it came to shirting this a/w 15 edition of Moda, with a mix of ditsy floral prints and 70s-inspired paisley designs. Interest could be seen in block-colour collars and contrast stitching, while colour palettes comprise tones of purple, mauve, blue and green. —

A versatile option, the parka is one wardrobe addition that will remain a timeless classic. This season sees a move away from the more robust, great outdoors parka and into a more modern, contemporary style. With pared-down detailing and lightweight design, this season’s design is ideal for city, worn over a suit. — GIBSON

MADDOX STREET

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APRIL 2015 | FOOTWEAR FOCUS | 32

SOLE SEARCHING Bringing together some of the key names in classic and contemporary footwear, MWB searches for the news, developments and new-season styles for autumn/winter 2015. —

NICHOLAS DEAKINS Nicholas Deakins continues to expand on its comprehensive footwear collection for the new season, with four key styles making their way to the forefront of the range. The Visor, for example, is a leather polished boot Chukka boot available in red brown, tan and dark brown. The Trigger, meanwhile, features contrast stitching, while the Dakka (pictured) is a lace-up boot available in red brown and olive brown. Finally, the Mile is smarter alternative to the running trainer in a leather-nylon mix. — p

GOODWIN SMITH Contemporary label Goodwin Smith has continued to go from strength to strength over the past 12 months, now counting House of Fraser online as one of its 150 stockists. With a selection of over 40 designs within its men’s collection and a women’s footwear range in the pipeline, 2015 is set to be a great year for the young British brand. With a range of styles from brogues to boots, the collection is designed to cater completely for the modern British gent. — q

BARKER p

BEDROOM ATHLETICS Comprising four key sub-collections this season, Bedroom Athletics offers a comprehensive range of casual indoor footwear. Sports Utility, for example, brings together soft rubberised uppers, bonded neoprene and waded mesh materials, while the Best of British collection sees the brand team up with Harris Tweed to create a sleek moccasin with a shearling foot bed and quilted side for comfort, available in various checked and plain tweeds. —

Celebrating 135 years in business is no mean feat, but that’s exactly what age classic British footwear label Barker has reached this year. And with this comes the introduction of four new colours to its Anniversary collection, featuring a palette of purple, green, red and blue. Two key styles in the brand’s main offer, meanwhile, include the Dowd (pictured), which is a cedar calf and green tweed brogue made using genuine hand-woven Harris Tweed, and the Hockney, the storm welted lace-up cedar grain boot available in calf and nubuck options. —

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APRIL 2015 | FOOTWEAR FOCUS | 33

CHATHAM Following its new collaboration with Harris Tweed, footwear label Chatham works tweed into its country collection for a/w 15 with fabric-panelled brogue shoes and ankle boots. Teaming the classic Harris Tweed with high-quality burnished leather in dark brown and tan to create a classic country chic style, the range welcomes the introduction of a brogue shoe and ankle boot – both standout pieces for the new season. —

OHW? The latest offering from contemporary label Ohw? looks to the luxury sneaker market in its collection, entitled Reflection. Combining the brand’s signature understated uppers with an exaggerated trainer-style IMEVA sole unit with a leather rand, the latest offering features three boot and two shoe designs, including details such as hidden ghillie laces, padded tongues and collars, and an internal wool and leather sock. —

KICKERS Celebrating its 40th anniversary, Kickers will once again put the focus on one of its most iconic styles – the Kick Hi. Transitioning through the football crowds of the late 70s, the Kick Hi reappeared in 80s rave culture among acid house and has been the boot of choice for the likes of Jarvis Cocker, Oasis and Arctic Monkeys. This season will see designer collaborations with Baartmans and Siegel and a partnership with one of the UK’s biggest high-street brand yet to be revealed. — t

BOXFRESH p

BARBOUR Barbour presents a comprehensive range of footwear for a/w 15, throughout both its mainline collection and its Barbour International offering. Buyers can expect Derby brogues and boots (pictured) in cognac and dark tan, classic Chelsea boots in black and dark brown, and the Tempest wellington boot available in olive and black. The International range, meanwhile, sees the introduction of the Barkell lace biker boot for the new season. —

Boxfresh continues the success of its EightyNine collection into a/w 15 with a series of premium streetwear designs, showcasing futuristic fabrics and a bold colour palette. Taking inspiration from modern superheros, the range celebrates directional design and quality in innovation with distinctive references to pop art and comic book heroes. Key styles feature hand-drawn graphics, designed in house. —

>>>

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SOULLAND

RANSOM Ransom looks to break down the barrier between contemporary and outdoor footwear for the new season, proving the two are not mutually exclusive. New developments include three new bold silhouettes – Brohm Lite, Garibaldi and Rutherford. Brohm Lite takes its inspiration from the Victorian-era Dealer boot, while the off-trail Garibaldi is designed for trekking through vast trails. Finally, the Rutherfold features a full-gusset, D-ring lacing system and a rugged vibram outsole. —

With a nod to the iconic music scene of Manchester in the early 90s, Scandinavian brand Soulland has designed its latest range piece by piece, using the theme as an addition rather than a strict focus. Contemporary is combined with classic in terms of the label’s footwear offer, with classic white sneakers sitting next to animalprint Derby shoes, making the a/w 15 collection one of its strongest yet. —

LAWLER DUFFY Adding more formal options into its offer for a/w 15, Lawler Duffy welcomes the introduction of four key styles: the Delfur (pictured), a calf leather high-shine formal shoe available in brown, tan and black; the Piccadilly, a Chelsea boot in calf leather; the Cortina, a nubuck pump available in black, racing green and brown; and the Notting Hill, a calf leather shoe featured in brown, tan or pearl black. —

HELLY HANSEN

AIGLE

Global outdoor brand Helly Hansen has unveiled its latest high performance boot for the new season – the Stockholm – which blends outdoor tradition, urban style and winter protection. The Stockholm is a high-fashion trainer-style boot, which features the essentials for repelling weather and keeping firm footing on wet and icy surfaces. With nubuck upper for solid weather protection, the latest style also boasts a Helly Grip™ outsole to keep feet firmly on icy ground, as well as interior lining to provide warmth and comfort. —

Presenting what it dubs to be the new urban-workwear hybrid, iconic French label Aigle combines the functionality of workwear-inspired footwear with the urban practicality of city shoes. For a/w 15, the brand has introduced four new styles in two heights – the mid-height Hawlin (pictured) and the high Hawson are joined by the Harlow, featuring buckle details, and the Hawley GTX, which incorporates Gore-tex for complete protection. —

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APRIL 2015 | FOOTWEAR FOCUS | 35

LOAKE Traditional English footwear brand Loake focuses on two new collections in its Shoemakers range – the first comprising four smart, but progressive styles in polished leather. Buyers can expect a Chelsea boot (pictured), a Derby brogue, a blindseam toe-cap Oxford and a punched-vamp Oxford. Navy leather linings and exaggerated chisel toes feature throughout. The second line features a Derby brogue, a plain-fronted Derby boot and a brogue boot, which comes in either veg-tanned distressed leather or burnished calf in black, tan or cognac. —

PARADIGMA For a/w 15, footwear label Paradigma has developed a consistent collection in an autumnal palette of red, browns, burgundy, black and grey. Brown leathers appear mixed with burgundy, greyish blue and honey toned brown, while new techniques such as discoloration give classic silhouettes a modern twist. —

ANTHONY MILES Combining the Anthony Miles signature contrast colour detailing and minimal design with a more tonal look, the latest collection from the British footwear label will see one of its most striking soles yet. With cleverly crafted angles, colour slices and contrast surface texture, the 12th concept sole sees a nod back to the very first Anthony Miles sole, boasting a tapered rand and dual angled heel. — q

PALLADIUM Palladium explores six distinct storylines for a/w 15, including City to City, which features casual pumps and boots in navy, indigo, dull gold and silver mink, the Heritage Pack, which welcomes fur-lined interiors, and Hi Visibility, which incorporates reflective surfaces in both a folded tongue and high boot option. — p

J SHOES The a/w 15 collection from J Shoes takes its inspiration from traditional shoe making, mixing classic silhouettes like the Brogue, Derby or Chukka with a subtle touch of colour, unexpected material and texture. Core styles Charlie and Monarch continue to be key highlights in new accents of blue and green, all on a new part-leather and rubber sole to add functionality and comfort for the new season. —

H A R D WO RK

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P M A C T O BO

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Wrangler 07775 435011 £31.95 Dr Martens 01933 667053 £45.85 Aigle 01608 813860 £43 Barbour International 0800 009 968 £51.60 Hey Dude 01202 575394 £28.26

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Gucinari 0121 455 7577 £32.95 Base London 020 8532 0000 price on request Ikon 02476 324670 £26 Paradigma 07813 212416 £50 Azor 020 8773 7800 £60

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O’Neill 07979 913366 price on request Fish ’n’ Chips 020 8532 0000 price on request J Shoes 01858 468123 £34.50 Pod 01234 240440 £14 Lonsdale 01706 212512 £13.91

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ET RAD ER 02

03 05 01: 02: 03: 04: 05: Credits Photographs: Chris Harvey www.chrisharveyphoto.com Stylist: Victoria Jackson Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

Barker 01604 810387 price on request Loake 01536 415411 £85.25 Sanders 01933 353066 £104 J Shoes 01858 468123 £40 Justin Reece 020 8809 7052 £28.50

www.vanbuck.com Tel: 01787 462012

barker-shoes.co.uk Facebook-Twitter-Instagram: BarkerShoesLtd

T: 01765 640576 E: darren@knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk www.knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk

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APRIL 2015 | ACCESSORIES | 44

WATCH TRIWA £50 OO46 841024900

RUCKSACK HERSCHEL SUPPLY £64 020 7739 4703

WASH BAG OTIS BATTERBEE £28 020 7431 8563

OVER THE SHOULDER BAG CHAPMAN BAGS PRICE ON REQUEST 07778 789019

LEATHER GLOVES REALM & EMPIRE £30 07446 110138

CUFFLINKS TYLER & TYLER PRICE ON REQUEST 0121 360 4279

COUNTRY LIVING Country inspired accessories are key for the coming season, with birds and insects adorning cufflinks and handkerchiefs. Fabrics, meanwhile, span tweeds and tartan weaves in a traditional autumnal palette. — HIP FLASK BARBOUR £18 0800 009 988

PACK OF TWO HANDKERCHIEFS DALACO £6.95 01363 777800

BAG TUSTING £145 01234 712266

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

SOCKS PANTHERELLA £4.85 0116 283 1111

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CUFFLINKS DENISONBOSTON £22 01273 202095

APRIL 2015 | ACCESSORIES | 45

YLF WASH TRIUMPH & DISASTER £10.42 07775 751121

LEATHER GLOVES DENTS £19 01985 212291

CITY SLICKER Characterised by industrial finishes, soft leathers and a colour palette of black and navy offset by metallics, this trend captures the luxe side of city living perfectly. —

WEEKEND BAG BEN SHERMAN £44 020 7812 5300

STERLING SILVER BRACELET THINK POSITIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8678 7378

WATCH UNKNOWN £32 07872 565437

LUGGAGE TAG FENDON1919 £16 01273 202095

TIE PIN ALICE MADE THIS £80 020 3735 5638

BAG SANDQVIST PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3411 7341

SUNGLASSES CHEAPO £6.50 0114 249 3037

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

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APRIL 2015 | ACCESSORIES | 46

TIE WITHOUT PREJUDICE £15 020 7372 3300

BELT DENTS £6.50 01985 212291

CUFFLINKS TYLER & TYLER PRICE ON REQUEST 0121 360 4279

CUFFLINKS TATEOSSIAN PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7384 8300

SQUARE SCARF KINGS OF INDIGO £33.39 020 7377 9083

NECK TIE MERC £11 020 7495 8538

REMEDY THE BLUES In terms of colour, blues dominate the accessory sector, from patterned navy through to unusual aqua metallic finishes. Interest comes from prints such as polka dot, camouflage and bandana-inspired motifs. — SUNGLASSES JEEPERS PEEPERS £6.50 020 7724 7238

SUNGLASSES TRIWA £50 04684 1024900

TIE ETON £29 020 7495 7988

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

WATCH BRISTON £102.17 07711 470007

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SOCKS CHEAPO £2 0114 249 3037

APRIL 2015 | ACCESSORIES | 47

HAT QUIKSILVER £25 020 7392 4020

STERLING SILVER NECKLACE THINK POSITIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8678 7378

STREET CRED Despite 90s-inspired monochrome leading the way in the younger, contemporary accessories sector, graphic and hand-drawn illustrations, as well as ombre finishes, add interest to this popular trend. —

SUNGLASSES QUAY £10 01612 729381

BUCKET HAT NOBIS £38 020 7404 8264

BACKPACK CONVERSE £25 020 8731 3500

UNDERPANTS GARCIA PRICE IN REQUEST 020 3432 6387

PHONE COVER NIXON £7.80 0808 234 7003

SOCKS STANCE £5.65 0094 93919030

HAT ALPINESTARS £10 0039 04235286

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

UNDERWEAR IS OUR PASSION www.jockeyinternational.com

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APRIL 2015 | REVIEW | 50

JACKET REQUIRED: THE PEOPLE

DARREN BROWN Sales director, Overland Shoes showing G.H.Bass & Co ROBIN BOLTON Account manager, Hunter Why has Hunter chosen now for its first showing at Jacket Required? I’ve only been with the brand since January, so it’s a fresh start for me, and there are big plans and big investment in the label. Everyone knows Hunter for the traditional wellies, but we’re now moving more into apparel – keeping the DNA of the brand. So there’s a lot of rubber jersey and rubber-touch down jackets. It’s about getting the brand noticed more, and getting buyers to come and see what we are now doing, and to touch and feel and see the quality of the new products. What else is there? There are bags and hats, and rubberised boots with more contemporary styling. The more traditional boots are big for festivals, but what we’re trying to do is move into more of a lifestyle range, hence why we’ve now got a rubberised lace-up and a rubberised Chelsea boot style, which will retail for £85. It gives us another point of entry into the market. What’s special about the outerwear? It’s 100 per cent waterproof with taped seams. There’s a windbreaker with a rubber jersey lining, so it’s softer to wear and there’s venting in the back and under the arms so it’s breathable as well. There’s also a vinyl raincoat, which has had a good response, as has the fishtail parka, which will retail at £280. There’s also another “ladsy” parka style that has had a great reaction and will retail at £260. The collection is small at the moment, but it’s only going to get bigger. —

What’s new with G.H.Bass & Co? Overland Shoes has taken the licence for Europe, and we’re designing the collection. We’ve dug right through the archive. The brand dates back to 1876, starting with handsewn moccasins. One of the original tag lines for the brand, dating back to the 50s catalogues, was “boots for hard service”. They featured “razor” soles, which we’ve reintroduced. Everyone thinks the razor sole is a relatively new concept, but we’ve got a catalogue from 1957 where it is featured on the outdoor boots. The leather and oiled suede engineer’s boot we’re introducing for a/w 15 is quite special. We’ve tweaked and mixed some patterns from archive footwear. Which other areas of the back catalogue have you looked at? There’s a product area called Sportoccasins. In 1938 the US golf team won its first Walker Cup, with five out of the nine players wearing Bass Sportoccasins. Aviation boots for the US Army, protecting from extreme cold, came before that – and also during WWII, so we’ve had a lot to look at aside from the Weejuns, which the brand is best known for. So what’s the strategy now? We believe that to be a true shoe brand you’ve got to have other categories in the range. But, also, the Weejuns have become a sub-category within the brand. We’ve looked at the archive of the Weejuns, and we’ve found what was called the “Weejun tie”, a lace-up shoe with a leather sole from the 60s. We’ve now taken the “Weejun tie” and introduced a lightweight crepe sole, so we’ve got plenty of newness going on to take us to a different level and give us wider appeal. —

FRASER TREWICK Owner, Hawksmill Denim Co How long has the brand been in the making? It’s been around 18 months. I teamed up with Tony Smith, who’s been working in production for various brands for some 20 years. We’ve been friends for a long time, going back to when we worked together on own-label product when I was at Urban Outfitters. When I finished at Nudie Jeans, two years ago, I was determined to do my own brand. We were doing some consultancy work for an American factory in Tennessee and, through a lot of the development work and what I learned about vintage machinery there, we decided that nobody was really making a premium jean in Europe. So we bought up a load of old machines, ship them to Portugal and started making a jean of a premium nature as they do in Japan. They start at £115 retail for a Cone Mills non-selvedge denim. What else is there in the line? There are work jackets, a jersey varsity jacket, a two-button blazer in a British twill fabric and a piece based on a WWII U.S.N jacket – updated and made to look cleaner and more utilitarian. There are also denim jackets, indigo tees and sweats and striped options. We’ve generally kept it clean and classic, giving people no reason not to buy it. I didn’t want to do anything that was overstated design-wise. I just wanted to make simple things well. The reaction has been good and I’ve picked up quite a few key accounts so far. —

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APRIL 2015 | REVIEW | 51

The busiest edition of Jacket Required to date, the show was buzzing with buyers and brands alike. Positivity within the industry was also in the air, as Tom Bottomley discovered from some key exhibitors. —

HOLLY GISELLE HILDEN Sales manager, Brand Progression What has Brand Progression brought to the show? We’ve brought 16 brands, including a new one from Italy called Nemen, and its collaboration with Acronym. We’ve also got Uniformes Generale, a new label from the UK. Because it’s so new, we’re showing their s/s 15 line, but we will be selling pre-season next time. Everything we’ve got here from Uniformes Generales is available for delivery over the next couple of months. The price points are very commercial and it’s had a really good reaction, with quite a few international stores looking at it. So is the show drawing in more international buyers? Yes, I think there is increasing momentum driving an international audience to Jacket Required. We’ve seen a lot more European accounts this time than in previous seasons. In general, there’s a real buzz to the show. It’s the busiest show we’ve done all season for sure, and not just because of UK buyers. Everyone seems in a good mood! What other new brands are you showing? We’re launching Rose & Rose – scarves and headwear made in England, and it’s had a fantastic reaction. MP socks from Denmark is another new one for us, as is Hestra gloves from Sweden, which was founded in 1936. Then there’s Kaibosh sunglasses from Norway, which we launched last summer. The collection is really strong. There’s definitely a Scandinavian theme going on with us at the moment. —

DAVID BUTLER Creative director, The Butler Company, showing Chippewa ED FIFE Partner, Index London You’ve taken a whole corner, so what brands have you got here? We’ve got Baracuta, Spiewak, B.D. Baggies, Engineered for Motion, Millican bags and Spektre sunglasses. The show has been nothing short of fantastic – really positive. People are actually coming here to work. I think there are more UK buyers than before, because they didn’t necessarily travel to the shows in Florence or Berlin, or wherever. So I think they’ve come to see the brands that they wouldn’t have seen otherwise. There’s a great opportunity to buy into some quality brands here, and it’s much busier. This season in general feels a lot more positive. Buyers are taking it seriously. What’s had the best reaction? Spiewak is certainly gaining more attention. The fact that the price points are attractive, especially given the quality, and that it can sit underneath the higher-end brands such as Woolrich and Canada Goose, is a factor. The Spiewak parkas retail at more like £415, but there’s also the top-tier Golden Fleece, which goes up to £675 retail. It’s all made in New York City, so the price points are higher, but it’s a premium product. Spiewak still manufactures for the US Army, Air Force and Navy, so it has an authenticity that people want. —

You were a late signing for the show, what spurred the move? It hadn’t really hit my radar before. Historically I’ve always been pretty reluctant to do London shows. This for me is the first time since I can remember where I felt something had got enough momentum to make it credible and worthwhile doing. The brand mix is really impressive, and it’s a good fit for the Chippewa brand. How has Chippewa been received? It’s been fantastic. It’s surpassed all my expectations in terms of connecting us with potential new retailers of the highest calibre. It’s supplied many contacts which we shall be following up. It was also a good chance to catch up with existing Chippewa customers. It gives them the confidence in us, showing that we are in the right place and we know what we’re doing. It also fits in really well with Chippewa’s global positioning. We’ve been at shows like Liberty in Las Vegas, and Jacket Required now complements it. I have total commitment to do the next one, and hopefully I shall be bringing some other brands to the mix. Any particular styles that have been picked up on by buyers? The signature Chippewa lace-to-toe Bridgemen boot has really struck a chord with buyers, and we’ve got new colourways and leather and suede combinations for a/w 15. The classic Service boot is also drawing attention, but the Bridgemen is really the one that sets us apart from the rest, and the go-to boot at the show. —

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APRIL 2015 | PROFILE | 52

PETER WERTH REVISITS ITS ROOTS Peter Werth – a brand born in Islington in 1975 making trend-driven knitwear, but now with full seasonal collections, stock-service favourites and a successful footwear offer – celebrates its 40th anniversary this year with a campaign under the Working Class Smart banner, delving into its past, as Tom Bottomley reports. — Since its acquisition four years ago by Focus International, a subsidiary of JD Sports Fashion, Peter Werth has made giant leaps to re-define its marketplace and, well, have more focus. This year sees the brand hit its 40th anniversary with key looks influenced by its past, and a brand new campaign under the banner of Working Class Smart. Sales director Paul Batista says, “While the Peter Werth name has always resonated positively with the end consumer, the lack of a clearly defined brand proposition has been a challenge to the trade – one that has now been seriously addressed by looking at our past and what we stand for.” He believes that the new Working Class Smart direction is a conduit, helping them to straddle two clearly defined consumers. Firstly, young, trend-aware guys who shop in the likes of Urban Outfitters, Topman and Asos, and secondly older, sartorially aware customers who are more comfortable with established brand adjacencies, typically found in department stores, who appreciate well designed product, quality and value. Indeed, it’s value for money that has always been a major catalyst in the brand’s appeal from day one. The Peter Werth collection has subsequently evolved through outerwear, shirting, blazers and fine jerseywear into shoes, accessories and tailoring. But it was in the mid-

70s that Peter Werth was appropriated by a Manchester-style tribe known as the Perry Boys, who wore eponymous pique polo shirts during the summer, but turned to long sleeved knitted polo shirts from Peter Werth during the winter. Indeed, the original burgundy knitted polo shirt, reintroduced in to the collection for a/w 15, was an early expression of the terrace “casual” look, particularly when teamed with Lois jumbo cords and Adidas Stan Smith trainers – must-have items for working class lads of the time. And, as befits the affiliation, Peter Werth is also collaborating with Lois on a dual-branded 40th-anniversary capsule line for autumn. Of note, and perhaps the most surprising growth in the brand’s more recent history, has been the major success its footwear has enjoyed. “It now represents 26 per cent of the label’s turnover,” says Batista. “The brand had done footwear in the past, but we relaunched it in spring/summer 2011, following the label’s acquisition and start of the new direction, and the growth has been quite incredible.” Batista puts the appeal of the footwear down to them finding a gap in the market that simply wasn’t being filled, and finding prominence in an area where menswear brands are not always deemed to succeed, bar a few exceptions. “I would say we’re really only one of three contemporary menswear brands that have

built genuine equity in a category where they were previously not formerly recognised,” he says. “The other two being Paul Smith and Ted Baker, so I’d say we’re in good company.” Price point is also a clear factor, with Peter Werth shoes sitting under the Ted Baker prices, something that seems to be keeping the likes of Schuh happy, as it’s now Peter Werth’s second biggest wholesale account across the board, and its biggest footwear partner. Last year saw Peter Werth shoes also launch with Sole Trader, but Batista says that the biggest area of growth for the footwear has been with independents. “They’ve really smashed it, and I attribute that to the two agencies we appointed – Red Alert, which now looks after us in the North, and Agent One in Birmingham, which looks after the Midlands. As a result, it’s actually the independents who have seen the steepest growth, up 60 per cent on last year. And that’s across the board – not just on footwear.” Export to retailers outside of the UK is also proving a key business growth driver, for the apparel as well as the footwear. “We’re launching in the States and Canada with Nordstrum,” says Batista. It’s a move that will help to establish the brand as an international player – a key focus for 2015 – while there are 40 years to shout about and some good-looking anniversary products to boot.

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APRIL 2015 | REVIEW | 54

COPENHAGEN: THE PRODUCT The end of January took us to Denmark for Copenhagen Fashion Week and all the trade fairs that went with it. Tom Bottomley took his picks from CIFF, as well as new shows CIFF Raven and Revolver. —

ANDERSEN-ANDERSEN Good to see a bit of home-grown talent, so to speak, and you’re not going to get much more Danish than Andersen-Andersen presenting at the Revolver show in the Meatpacking District. Simple but true product with the tag line, “World’s best sailor’s sweater”, and currently stocked by Oi Polloi and one or two others in the UK. It’s just seven styles and six colours of knitwear, but that’s all it really needs to be. Cathrine Lundgren-Andersen, who started the brand up with her husband Peter, hence the double name, says they only use the most tightly woven, extra-spun merino wool from Italy that’s both soft and durable. Styling wise, the basic design looks like a classic Guernsey, but with the fuss taken out and thumb holes added. A new addition is the knitted pea coat in a very sharp, heavyweight knit. A must-have piece for any style-savvy captain on land or sea. —

VELOUR Going since 1997, Velour started out as a vintage store in Gothenburg, mainly selling clothes from the 50s and 60s. Previously sold through Brand Progression in the UK, Velour could well be worth a second look as they’ve elevated the design and fabrics, and raised the price points accordingly – though the basics such as the Oxford shirts and chinos (never out of stock in 16 different colours) are similarly priced to before. The brand is also seeking a new UK sales agent. There’s more emphasis on outerwear, such as a quilted jacket with detachable fur-look collar and a couple of 50s-style overcoats in wool slub Italian fabrics that you really have to see and feel to appreciate. A shoe collaboration with Sperry has been selling in Oi Polloi recently – something the brand is hoping to continue for another season. —

VICO Established in 2012, Vico is a newcomer to the slightly higher-end and smarter sneaker market, but brings with it a definite point of difference in styling and substance – handmade in Portugal using Italian leathers, though the brand is from Rotterdam. It also makes its own outsoles, and the woven leather shoes are rather special if a tad pricier than the rest of the range. The main offer retails between £100 and £145, with the specials around £200. The running soles are made of ultra-flex rubber, though they are not made for running – just to look tasty. Quality and comfort are key, and there are great colours to choose from, with leather and suede combinations, low and hi tops. The guys behind it previously worked for the Cruyff brand, though it bears no resemblance. —

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APRIL 2015 | REVIEW | 55

KNOTS FOR KNITS As the name suggests, it’s all about knitwear. It’s also brand new. This is the first season – launching wholesale at CIFF, though it is also previewing at a cool shop in Copenhagen called Wardrobe 19. It’s all knitted in Denmark – using heavyweight merino wool, in an area renowned for producing quality knits. Retail prices start at around £140. There’s a knitted coat, blazer, zip-up cardigan, knitted merino overshirt, indigo Henley top and loose-fit knitted sweatshirt. Simple pieces in classic colours and well-delivered branding. General manager Martin Petersen says his company also works as agent and distributor, carrying other brands such as Upstate Stock from New York (which he was also showing in the same space), but Knots for Knits is its first real in-house brand (apart from some quite quirky T-shirts under the name of Hidden in Plain Sight – also worth a look), and it’s got potential. —

DENIM BY VANQUISH AND FRAGMENT Two brands, and friends, from Japan joining forces to create something quite stand-out at CIFF Raven. Ryo, the man behind Vanquish (a brand going for 10 years and with 10 stores in Japan) is a legend in his homeland by all accounts, and he looks a cool dude, too. The collaboration with Fragment (a 20-year-old brand) certainly catches the eye, and this is the first outing to show it in Europe, though it is now in its eighth season. There’s denim, of course, but it’s also the quirky Japanese way of branding on tees and shirting that seems to work. There’s a hooded outerwear piece in different colours, and a coach jacket with a D and B (for Denim By) intertwined on the left chest. Ryo used to work in a factory producing for other small Japanese labels, and you get the feeling he’s got the magic touch. —

VELORBIS An interesting story to this one. Two friends, a Dane and a Swede, were working as accountants in London 10 years ago when, on 7 July 2005, the terrorist bombings on the London Underground shook the capital. The pair subsequently decided the best form of transport going forward was above the ground and, more specifically, on bicycles. Partner Christian Linde says, “At the time, we were wearing suits for work, but there wasn’t a bike that looked suitable for us to ride. So we designed our own, with a more traditional Scandinavian feel, and it grew from there.” They still make the bikes (in Germany), but have branched out into some rather natty leather and fabric bags of all descriptions – an idea that initially came from needing to attach a bag to a bike. Small leather goods and some tasteful handmade sunglasses have since been added, and Velorbis has its own shop in Copenhagen. —

BLACKMEANS Japanese punks with a penchant for killer leathers, no less. No wonder Selfridges introduced it and gave it an instillation space recently. Apparently the people behind it have their own, unique style, and were urged to do their label eight years ago, but it seems we’re only fairly recently finding out about it in the UK. Some of the more extreme designs are indeed “out there” – more for your real fashionistas or indeed members of the underground Japanese punk scene. But there are some excellent pieces that would look good on just about anyone who put them on. The motorcycle jackets are among the best around. And there’s denim, too – jeans with zips that could have come out of The Clash’s old wardrobe, as well as accessories (a leather knuckleduster lighter holder anyone?) and woven garments made out of vintage military fabrics. It’s pricey, but it looks it. —

KINGS OF INDIGO This has the potential to go far – great pieces and excellent branding featuring a Koi carp (Koi being the abbreviated brand name, of course) with a crown. It’s fun, but clever, too, and the graphics have apparently been created by Goodhood co-founder and director Kyle Stewart, who is one of the not-so-many (but growing) UK stockists. Stewart originally trained as a graphic artist, and he’s certainly got a skill there. Even the packaging for the underwear and socks (a box of seven for each day of the week) is spot on. Brand owner and self proclaimed King of Ideas Tony Tonnaer clearly knows his denim, too. Previously CEO of Kuyichi jeans, a brand where sustainability is a key focus – something he’s carried through with Koi, and also formerly with Pepe Jeans – working on production for many years, clearly helps. —

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APRIL 2015 | PEOPLE | 56

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK OCAÑA, PLAÇA REIAL, 13-15, BARCELONA 08002, SPAIN

SIMON SAYS I’m a networking addict. There, I’ve said it. I could almost be one of those unfortunate people who put up their hands at the first meeting of Networkers Anonymous and says, “My name is Simon…” I never used to be like this. I regarded networking as a needless waste of business cards, only mildly relieved by copious champagne and stuffing my face with canapés. The epiphany occurred four years ago. I’d reluctantly agreed to attend a “business leaders’ dinner”; the very thought of which made me break out in hives. There I was round this very bountiful dinner table at a private members’ club, and everyone was introducing themselves. Who should be at the farthest end from me but the charming Joseph Wan, who was then CEO of Harvey Nichols, the one blue chip retailer I’d hitherto failed to crack. Frustratingly, he was just out of reach, and decent manners precluded me from physically climbing over the table. However, as the evening wound up and guests left to leave, I spotted my chance and pounced, thrusting my business card and engaging in small talk. He reciprocated with his, wondered why we weren’t working together, and promised to look into it. The following morning my inbox was stuffed with emails from various members of the Harvey Nichols buying team and, to cut the story mercifully short, we’ve had three years of excellent trade, and my Simon Carter for Harvey Nichols men’s jewellery collection is one of their best performing ranges. Hence my rapid conversion to the art of networking. So thus it was that I was having breakfast in a swanky City restaurant last month, courtesy of my bank (ah, that’s where the fees go). The speaker was from Worth Capital, and he was talking about retail innovation. He made a lot of sense and was explaining the difference between “expansive thinking” (big ideas) and “reductive thinking” (small ideas). This was useful. But what I really took away was reconnecting with an old colleague, and we will be working together on a project in Japan, and meeting a new contact, who’s interviewing me for his very widely read blog. The upshot of all of this is one of the oldest adages in the world. People do business with people. The most successful retailers are those who invest the most in their staff, and fully understand the need to engage with the customer on a personal level. In the age of remote working and online, it’s easy to forget. But I believe it’s as valuable as ever. Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores. —

Nestled in the heart of Barcelona, Ocaña has become known for its open door policy and welcoming atmosphere since launching in 2012. Attracting a varied crowd of locals and tourists typically aged 25 and over, the café has established itself as a straight up eatery and bar with a twist. — The venue itself is over 150 years old, and has seen different projects come and go throughout the decades. Through restoration and working with the original features of the building, the finished product incorporates the historical features of the building into its décor. Visitors can expect to feast on fusion food inspired by dishes from Peru and Mexico, and sample a number of cocktails from the generous cocktail menu. Music and panoramic views of Barcelona provide a welcome break for sight-seeing tourists and locals who seek respite from city life. And for guests not wanting to leave, the venue hosts as a club after dark. — PLAN B

CONNOR POOLE Sales representative for Luke Roper Limited (looking after sales for Luke 1977 for the South East and Alpha Industries for the UK)

Being a magician appeals to me. I’ve always been fascinated from the first time my dad showed me a magic trick he brought back from Las Vegas. I began focusing on card magic, and practised different slights and techniques to manipulate the cards. I’m a big fan of Derren Brown, so I learnt some of his gambling cheat slights and card-counting techniques. Now my mates never play me at poker! Everyone loves magic, so it’s always something to turn to. On a separate note, I’m a fully qualified British Association of Rally Schools instructor. I teach members of the public rallying techniques, such as power sliding and handbrake turns – done correctly and not the type that many have tried in a Tesco car park! —

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APRIL 2015 | PEOPLE | 57

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL JAMES WOODFORD, ACCOUNT MANAGER, NUDIE JEANS CO As someone who grew up in the 90s, MTV culture was the starting point for me when determining my own identity as a youth. I was always mad on the Seattle sound and anything Sub-Pop. I discovered Nirvana’s Nevermind a good few years after it was released and, for me – and I guess for a lot of kids – Kurt Cobain was as cool as they come. While all my mates were sporting tracksuit bottoms and Reebok Classics, I was ripping holes in my stonewashed second-hand Levi’s 501s. From then on, breaking in jeans has been an everyday pastime, not to mention a means to a career. I bought my first pair of Thin Finn Nudie jeans seven years ago and, as is clear, they’ve been on an eventful journey. — A printed YMC sweat caught my eye recently, which needed no deliberation to buy. It took me back to my surf/grunge years, so I guess that’s why it appealed. I’ve never been a real sneakerhead, but I have learnt that a well-made sneaker will last you a decent amount of time. “Price per usage” is something I’ve lived by for a while. Despite the price of something, I weigh up the amount of use it’ll get. I’m now on my second pair of Common Project Tournament Low sneakers in as many years, and both pairs still have a lot of miles left in them. I like wearing staple pieces for as long as they can last. Quality goods wear in well and look better with age. — There have been many different interpretations on the classic MA-1 flight jacket, and so many brands of late have released their take on the historic piece. I’ve collected a few over the years, from technical waterproof reflective versions, to the classic sage-green military spec with the bright orange lining. I recently dug out an old version of my very own, a Nudie Jeans Martin check wool ribbed jacket designed from a few seasons back. It’s quite 50s-esque, and warm enough for the morning walk to the showroom. —

TOP TWEETS peej @kickthepj Pro tip – don’t ever put your laundry basket next to the kitchen bin, muscle memory will take over. R.I.P my socks Urban Outfitters @UrbanOutfitters Oh, did you manage to get this song out of your head for ten minutes? IT’S BACK. FOREVER. #EverythingIsAwesome Ed Sheeran @edsheeran meat and shake = pregnant ASOS Menswear @ASOS_Menswear In an ‘on again, off again’ relationship with the snooze button. #Friday WHY MY CAT IS SAD @MYSADCAT My cat is sad because he’s my cat, and that’s why he drinks matthew gray gubler @GUBLERNATION I can’t figure out if I had the most bizarre dream about turtles being evolved space aliens or if I actually learned that for real. Anyone? Hugh Laurie @hughlaurie I once sat on a white rhino called Hector. I don’t think he knew I was there, but I’ll never forget it comehappy.leave.edgy @bricklanecoffee Yelp is a fun game where you try to guess between whether a restaurant is bad or a reviewer is mad —

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p DR MARTENS TEAMED UP WITH CARTOON NETWORK TO BRING LONDON’S CARNABY ST TO A STANDSTILL LAST MONTH WITH A 100-STRONG “BOUNCE MOB” TO MARK THE LAUNCH OF THE DR MARTENS X ADVENTURE TIME COLLABORATION. —

p YOUNG PEOPLE ARE BEING OFFERED A WAY INTO EMPLOYMENT WITH THE CONTINUATION OF THE RETAILRIGHT SCHEME, WHICH WAS ROLLED OUT TO BRADFORD THIS MONTH, CO-ORDINATED BY INDUSTRY CHARITY RETAIL TRUST. —

p MEMBERS OF THE 39 CLUB CELEBRATED THEIR ANNUAL SPRING LUNCHEON LAST MONTH, WITH RUGBY COMMENTATOR ANDREW TITHERIDGE AS GUEST SPEAKER. THE EVENT RAISED £1,142 FOR THE CLUB’S CHOSEN CHARITY, PROSTATE CANCER UK. —

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APRIL 2015 | 59

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

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WARDROBE IN A TRUNK, SIR? It was brought to my attention recently that industry veteran and former president of Levi Strauss EMEA Joe Middleton, along with his son Sam, has set up a business to offer men a new way of replenishing their wardrobe with no hassle. The Chapar offers men “a relaxed, personalised shopping experience with expert help”, with the target market chaps who like to look good but are no means shopping enthusiasts. The pair believed the way men shop for clothes online or on the high street is fundamentally flawed. Middleton knew from experience that a lot of men simply don’t like to shop. The customer journey starts online and continues with a call from one of The Chapar’s expert stylists who, following a short consultation, puts together a bespoke edit of suitable items, including accessories and footwear to create whole outfits, in a trunk. Each trunk is created from scratch to suit the consumer’s taste, lifestyle and preferences. Describing itself as “the UK’s first digital fashion concierge for men”, 48 hours later, a personalised trunk is delivered, with items assembled into suggested outfits for additional ease. Customers only pay for what they want to keep, and The Chapar collects the rest for free. There are no membership fees, no shipping costs and no obligations. The website (www.thechapar. com) states, “We position ourselves similarly to department stores such as Selfridges or Harvey Nichols. We have a mixture of classic brands through to some modern labels that allow us to cover all styles and looks.” Brands on board include the likes of Hartford, Baracuta, B.D. Baggies, Albam, Edwin, Ben Sherman, Hentsch Man, Scotch & Soda and Hackett. It sounds like a novel and, indeed, useful concept, with some decent brands and kit on offer. Obviously The Chapar will take your credit card details as part of the registration process, but while you’re only going to be charged for the pieces you want to keep, I wonder how many cheeky chappies will try to get kitted out for a night on the town and then say they don’t want the items and “please pick them up” the day after? In the menswear shops I used to work in we’d get people trying it on all the time, buying

p NEWLY LAUNCHED SHOPPING SERVICE THE CHAPAR t BRAND TO WATCH, MOST FAVOURED NATION

something, wearing it out and returning it the next day. A whole trunk full of clobber delivered to the door might be a bit tempting for some scoundrels.

DONE BY AMA-CON! Flicking through a paper in the pub the other week I came across a story with the headline, “Has Amazon picked £79 out of YOUR pocket?” It went on to say how millions, yes literally millions, of people have been duped into signing up for its Amazon Prime service, which offers unlimited one-day free delivery on Amazon products, plus digital photo storage and free access to films and TV programmes that can be watched over the internet. It’s not that it sounds like a bad deal at all, in fact rather good, if you use Amazon a lot and watch loads of stuff online. But it’s the fact that they have managed to unwittingly take £79 out of so many people’s bank accounts without them realising they’d signed up for it. And I found out I was one of them! I don’t always go through my bank statements with a fine toothcomb, and I clearly missed it. Once more, it’s on what is known as a “continuous payment authority” – meaning it will automatically be taken from your account every year. I only ever order an odd book or something from Amazon, mainly at Christmas for presents, as I’m sure countless other people do, so to find out two books that I thought cost me around £16, actually cost me £95, was a bit of a shock to say the least. And if I hadn’t have seen that newspaper article I still wouldn’t know any different. I got my money back, in the end, but how slippery is that from such a giant of an online retailer?

A NEW BRAND FROM TOPSHOP’S FORMER GLOBAL BRAND DIRECTOR One to keep an eye out for, perhaps, Most Favoured Nation is a new brand on the block from Richard Storer, formerly the global brand director at Topshop. Storer was also previously communications director at Nike and fashion director for photographer Rankin and his Hunger magazine, as well as having design roles at Reiss and Paul Smith in the past. Not a bad CV. Says Storer, “I have helped to build other people’s brands on the PR and visual side for over 12 years and, coming from a design background originally, it felt like the right time to launch my own brand exactly how I wanted to.” Described as “an athletic luxury brand with high-tech fabrications and custom-developed fabrics exclusive to us”, the new campaign images have been styled by Andrew Davis, creative director for Wonderland and Rollacoaster magazines. Riding a new fashion rollercoaster himself, Storer is selling a small capsule collection online from now at his own e-store www.mostfavourednation.com, but the major wholesale push is for a/w 15, and a full presentation is planned at London Collections: Men in June. We wish him luck.

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APRIL 2015 | DIRECTORY | 60

DIRECTORY BUSINESS FOR SALE

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APRIL 2015 | 62

LAST ORDERS WITH... DION NASH Founder of grooming brand Triumph & Disaster, New Zealand native Dion Nash knows a thing or two about protecting the skin against the elements. Following a successful debut at Jacket Required, Victoria Jackson caught up with Nash to discuss the must-have grooming products every man should own. — D.O.B: 20/11/1971 Born: Auckland, New Zealand Lives now: Auckland, New Zealand Twitter: @triumphand Website: www.triumphanddisaster.com

Victoria Jackson: When did Triumph & Disaster turn from concept into reality? Dion Nash: It was founded in 2011 – as a professional sportsman much of my youth was spent outside exposed to sun, wind and sweat. Because of this exposure I have always been acutely aware of the effect that the sun and our environment has on our skin and consequently the way we feel. Through a process of trial and error I developed my own routine and combination of products to combat this exposure, snd created the base of a grooming range, which I later turned into Triumph & Disaster. The name comes from Rudyard Kipling’s poem IF, which my father gave me at age 13. It was at a time when father and son were butting heads, so to speak, so the poem was promptly defaced, graffitied over and thrown in the bottom drawer – but never thrown away. The poem is advice from father to his son on how to be a man. It’s about humility, honour, risk and reward. VJ: How does an average day go? DN: Get up early, have breakfast with my family and head to work. I walk as often as I can as I find it clears my head. I try to hit the office by 8am and work until 7pm each day. In between I drink coffee, talk shop and, if I’m lucky, do some exercise. At home I eat, put the kids to bed and check emails until 10pm – basically all I do is work, but I love it so it’s like living your passion. VJ: What is your wholesale strategy for the UK market? DN: We exhibited at the last Jacket Required,

which was really good for us. It gave us some nice exposure and a chance for the team to bond. We currently have around 25 retailers across the UK, and we believe that we can double that this year. It is important for us to remain a premium proposition so it’s about finding the right partners. VJ: Can you give us three skincare essentials every man should own? DN: Rock & Roll Suicide Exfoliate (life changing), Rock & Roll Suicide Exfoliate (did I mention that already?), and moisturise with Gameface Hydrating Cream. These two steps will change everything for you. VJ: How would you describe your own style? DN: To the left of centre and on my own track – I love people who show individuality and think for themselves and are not afraid to express it. If I was going to draw inspiration from anyone, it would be Imran Khan in the 80s, Steve McQueen in the 70s and Jim Morrison in the 60s. VJ: Away from work, how do you like to relax? DN: I love reading and spending time with my family – I have a four year old, a six year old and an eight year old.

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Best piece of advice you ever received: The journey to know yourself involves some risk — Favourite film: The Usual Suspects — Biggest fashion faux pas: Acid-wash jeans and a mullet, circa 1983 — Which labels would we find in your wardrobe: Acne, Zambesi, Converse and Haines —

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