MWB MAGAZINE MAY ISSUE 221

ISSUE 221 | MAY 2015 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

INSTANT ACCESS SHORT-ORDER BRANDS TO CHECK OUT THIS SEASON — LONDON CALLING NEW FACES TO CATCH AT LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN

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MAY 2015 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 12

Online Insider Advice, news and issues online

14

Retail Insider The latest in-store news

19

Product news Rounding up the key stories this month

24

In-season stock Tailor your needs

26

In-season stock Club Tropicana

28

Talent show New faces to catch at London Collections: Men

32

From the bottom up Key names in hosiery and underwear

34

E-tail news News and developments from the world of e-commerce

35

Blogging for beginners The how, why, when and what

36

Ways to pay How to start selling online successfully

38

Special delivery Finding the right packaging partner

39

Open for business Essential advice from the experts

41

Short order saviours Essential names to top up with this season

R E G U L A R S 7 8 16

Comment News Interview Nick Keyte

44 47 50

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With‌ Carl Thompson

Front cover:

Holzweiler christian@holzweiler.no

PREMIUM MENSWEAR TRADE SHOW S/S 2016 COLLECTIONS

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E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com

MAY 2015 | 07

COMMENT

— D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — S U B

E D I T O R

Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S A L E S

E X E C U T I V E

Fiona Warburton fiona.warburton@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

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A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

Identifying how your customers prefer to shop can feel like a guessing game, especially when it comes to online. How often they shop via the internet, what devices they use and how often they browse and make a purchase are key factors to consider as a retailer.

— In a report, entitled Consumers Tell All, which was undertaken by online marketing specialist Bronto in January this year, one of the most surprising findings for me was the notable shift in shopping frequency across the genders. In a previous study, an equal number of males and females (25 per cent) reported shopping at least once a week, but this year saw a five per cent increase in male shoppers, while the number of female shoppers dropped by seven per cent. According to the report, mobile devices, mobile-optimised sites and better shopping tools have introduced a level of convenience that may have contributed to the shift.

A not-so-shocking finding was that those under 40 are the most active online, although more surprising was that the 30-39 age group has slightly overtaken the 18-29 demographic in terms of ordering online. And there are still those who believe online is a young man’s game. While seniors are the least active shoppers overall, they still ranked closely to other ages groups in the Occasional Shopper category, which confirms the older consumer is still worth paying attention to when considering your online presence.

The e-commerce landscape is forever changing, and consumers are always looking for the best deals and a seamless, quick and convenient shopping experience. Online sales continue to break records every year, though consumers are continually finding new ways to shop. Mobile devices have become so deeply ingrained in the shopping process, and the gap between in-store and online shopping continues to narrow.

While these factors may impact the pace of online shopping, the power of the online shopper cannot be denied - which is why in this issue we bring you our second seasonal e-commerce special, looking at factors such as why blogging has become essential to online retail, and investigating packaging companies that offer small minimums for independents who want to create the perfect impression when their online order arrives through the customer’s front door.

As always, if you have any comments on this month’s issue or the industry as a whole, drop me at a line at victoria@ras-publishing.com or tweet the team at @mwbmagazine.

Victoria Jackson Editor

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MAY 2015 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

BILL COLTMAN LAUNCHES FASHIONBANQUE EUROPE

INDIES WELCOME ELECTION RESULT The independent sector has reacted positively to the outcome of this month’s election, following the news that the Conservative party secured an overall majority of 331 seats.

For the business sector, the Conservative manifesto has been welcomed across the trade as pledges of support for commerce and industry promise a brighter future for business owners. Specifically, the party has promised a review of business rates by the end of the year to ensure that, “from 2017 they properly reflect the structure of our modern economy” and the creation of three million apprenticeships by the end of 2020. The manifesto also promises to increase spending power through the introduction of 30 hours’ free childcare for working parents, and a tax-free minimum wage for the lowest earners in a continuation of its support of smaller business set-ups.

“This is the right result for small business, and it’s the result we wanted to see,” says Caroline Carder, co-owner of family footwear specialist Robert Carder Shoes in Godalming, Surrey. “The business has been better under a Conservative government and any further support for small business will be warmly welcomed.

It’s not a level field at the moment; we are based in an affluent area and yet we have charity shops on either side of us because rents are so high. Add the competition from the internet into the equation and trading is hard. We do well, but we work at it – and any help from the government can only be a good thing.”

Fellow independent retailer Rowan Hines – owner of Room 14 Menswear in Manchester – agrees that support for small business is vital, but argues that there is a long way to go if the Conservative party is to deliver on its promises. “I’d like to see a continuation of the rate relief on business rates, but I want to see a cut in VAT, which is perhaps the stuff of fairy tales,” he says.

“More focus on and a cash injection into running town teams would also be welcome as an extension of Mary Portas’ plan,” he continues. “It’s important for retailers in market towns, such as myself, to get together with councillors round a table once a month or so to discuss problems, otherwise we don’t get heard.”

—

Bill Coltman, former founder of distribution company Go Live and sales director of Florentino, has launched brand new menswear agency Fashionbanque Europe.

Offering labels such as No Excess, Noize and Gregory James, Coltman will oversee the design and production of the latter. Targeting the 20-plus market, Gregory James has been designed to sit next to the likes of Lyle & Scott, and is split between both forward-order and in-season stock. No Excess (pictured), meanwhile, will showcase in Berlin for s/s 16 and can count over 2,000 stockists worldwide.

Sister label to No Excess, Noize is aimed at a younger target market, with price points sitting at 15-20 per cent less than its stablemate.

—

RELAUNCH FOR STYLE.COM Condé Nast will launch a global e-commerce business in autumn, with the main objective to sell merchandise to consumers and readers of its magazines. The mass-media company will target products at readers of its online and print publications including Vogue, Vanity Fair and GQ. The e-commerce venture will be branded Style.com, the name currently used by the fashion news website also owned by the company.

Users will be able to order merchandise from magazine-branded websites and apps, as well as the Style.com website itself. Readers will also be able to scan and purchase many of the images appearing in the print magazines.

Style.com is expected to begin by offering 100-200 brands, with the number growing as the business expands in sales and geographical market reach.

—

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MAY 2015 | NEWS | 09

IN BRIEF

NOMINEES ANNOUNCED FOR WOOLMARK PRIZE

MACKINTOSH RECEIVES QUEEN’S AWARD

As the International Woolmark Prize enters its fourth year, The Woolmark Company has announced the British Isles nominees, which include Agi & Sam, Craig Green, A Sauvage, Lee Roach and Kit Neale.

First held in 1953 as an initiative of the International Wool Secretariat, the award the following year was won by the then unknown Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent. Today, the International Woolmark Prize continues to recognise outstanding design talent from around the world.

The prize was revived in 2012 to promote a fresh crop of fashion stars showcasing the benefits of working with Australian merino wool, and now more than 60 designers from over 20 countries take part. This year a sixth region – the British Isles – has been added to the competition, with the regional award to be held in London.

—

British premium outerwear label Mackintosh has been awarded the Queen’s Award for Enterprise in International Trade. With factories in Cumbernauld, Scotland and Nelson, Lancashire, Mackintosh continues to manufacture its handmade coats using traditional skills in the UK, as well as collaborating with industry leading international fashion brands.

Over the past four years, the brand has increased international sales by more than 56 per cent, raising international turnover from £4.5m to £7m.

“The company is delighted Her Majesty The Queen has approved the Prime Minister’s recommendation that our business should receive a Queens Award for Enterprise in International Trade this year,” says a spokesperson for Mackintosh.

“As Britain’s most coveted commercial prize, it recognises an achievement that we are extremely proud of.”

—

CLOTHING RETAIL BENEFITS FROM SMARTPHONE SURGE

TRICKER’S APPOINTS NEW MANAGING DIRECTOR

Shoppers are relying on their smartphones to shop online more than ever – and it is the apparel sector that is seeing the biggest boost, according to new figures released this week. The number of customers searching for clothes online via their smartphones is up 54 per cent on this time last year, while tablet searches for the same period have increased by 11 per cent.

“Mobile continues to drive growth in the UK, and this remains the case with apparel in the first quarter of the year,” says Peter Fitzgerald, retail director at Google. “Interestingly, emerging markets still see strong growth from tablets, however smartphones supercharge growth for overseas consumers of UK brands.” The number of overseas shoppers searching for UK apparel brands has increased by 10 per cent since last year, suggesting that international growth is not to be underestimated for retailers across the country.

—

Iconic footwear label Tricker’s has announced the appointment of Martin Mason as its new MD, with effect from 1 June 2015. Mason brings a wealth of experience from the luxury goods sector to the 186-year-old British footwear brand, having held positions at Pringle Scotland, Mulberry, John Smedley, Lulu Guinness and Nicole Farhi.

“I am delighted Martin has agreed to join the Tricker’s team as our new managing director,” says current managing director Nick Barltrop. “He brings with him an invaluable wealth of knowledge in global brand building, which will no doubt improve our visibility, drive international expansion and bring the Tricker’s brand renewed energy and growth.”

Mason adds, “I am thrilled to be joining Tricker’s; it is a much-loved and wonderful British luxury brand.

I consider it a real honour to be the very first MD appointed outside the family to undertake this role.”

—

ALVANON PRESIDENT JOINS IAF BOARD Alvanon president Ed Gribbin has been named on the board of directors of the International Apparel Federation (IAF).

The announcement was made at last month’s IAF board meeting in Frankfurt by IAF president Rahul Mehta.

The IAF is the world’s leading federation for apparel manufacturers, associations, apparel retailers and the supporting industry.

Members include associations from nearly 40 countries, representing over 150,000 companies that provide products and services to the apparel industry.

As president of Alvanon, Gribbin leads its consulting teams around the globe, helping apparel industry clients develop and implement robust data-driven growth strategies in disciplines ranging from marketing and merchandising to product development and supply chain. He has worked with many of the world’s leading apparel organisations and is widely recognised as the sector’s most eminent authority on strategic apparel practices and processes.

— M&S TO SELL BRANDED TRAINERS High-street retailer M&S will sell a selection of branded trainers for men and women in a bid to strengthen its position as a British retailer. The store – which has previously only sold its own label – has entered into collaboration with British footwear manufacturer Walsh, a Bolton-based operation that manufactures its goods in the UK. The debut collection comprises eight styles – four for men and four for women – and will retail at £110 as of autumn. The range will be sold under the M&S Best of British range; a sublabel introduced as part of a three-year collaboration with the British Fashion Council to bring British manufacture to the UK high street. Established over 50 years ago, Walsh is the only trainer brand to manufacture its goods in Britain.

The brand has previously made trainers for the British Olympics team and has introduced more fashion properties into its performance shoes in recent years.

— NON-FOOD SALES UP 3.2 PER CENT Non-food sales grew by 3.2 per cent in the three months to April, while fashion sales in particular exceeded expectations, according to the latest figures released by the BRC-KPMG retail sales monitor.

Growth on a like-for-like basis since last April, however, was slightly down, due to the “negative distortion” of an early Easter in 2015. “April witnessed a solid performance for fashion and beauty retailers; particularly welcome following a disappointing a/w,” says the British Retail Consortium’s director general, Helen Dickinson. “While the early Easter this year heavily distorted April’s figures across all categories, we see the best three-month average year-on-year growth since June of last year; a clear indication that confidence among consumers is slowly improving, and that despite profitability under intense pressure due to changes in shopping habits and promotional activity, retail remains a robust pillar of the economy.”

—

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MAY 2015 | NEWS | 10

IN BRIEF

TOMS OPENS FIRST UK STORE

GLOVERALL APPOINTS NEW CEO

US footwear label Toms has opened its first store in the UK, retailing its full range of men’s, women’s and children’s footwear, as well as its newly launched eyewear collection. The brand – founded on a onefor-one policy – which sees a pair of shoes donated to a child in a developing country for every pair sold – has also introduced a community element into the store, offering free Wi-Fi and a café area.

The shop is located on London’s Carnaby Street and is the brand’s second European store, building on the success of Toms’ flagship outlet in Amsterdam – which opened in spring last year. The store combines a retail space and full barista bar on its ground floor, which the first floor has been designed to act as a platform for Toms’ events and promotional programmes.

—

Gloverall has appointed Derrick Campbell as new CEO, taking over the position from Daniel Kim. Campbell, who has previously been with heritage brand Lyle & Scott, will be responsible for Gloverall’s further development and growth, building on the strong history and identity of the label, which is known for its duffel coats.

“Derrick Campbell has a proven track record in turnaround management and brand development.

The business undertook an extensive search before appointing Derrick. We are delighted to have him on board running the business from our London office and showroom. His extensive experience will be an invaluable addition to the existing team,” says the brand’s Andrew Kwon.

The focus for the future will be on the extension of core product categories, e-commerce and establishing a global presence.

—

CELTIC & CO RETURNS TO PROFIT

BFC AWARDS WIN FOR E.TAUTZ

Cornish luxury footwear, clothing and outerwear brand Celtic & Co has returned to profit after several loss-making years. The label announced a turnover of £6,125,782 for the financial year to January 2015, with an annual profit of £367,059.

The brand, which was founded in 1990, was bought back in January last year by its original founders Nick and Kath Whitworth, after the company had been subject to a partial private equity led buy-out in 2011 and change of management team.

This was followed by the appointment of Emily Bates as managing director and a comprehensive review of the operational and marketing strategy.

The turnaround of the business is attributed to the re-engagement with the brand’s loyal customer base and commitment to heritage values, as well as the implementation of a digital communications strategy.

—

The British Fashion Council (BFC) announced E.Tautz as the winner of the second annual BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund supported by Vertu.

The homegrown brand won the prestigious award and a £150,000 grant at this month’s event, during a reception hosted by Caroline Rush, Dylan Jones OBE and Massimiliano Pogliani at the Rosewood London hotel.

E.Tautz beat other shortlisted entrants Astrid Andersen, Christopher Raeburn, Matthew Miller and Sibling for the 2015 prize and grant, which will provide infrastructure to take the business to the next level.

Established in September 2013, the fund is the UK’s biggest menswear prize and follows on from the success of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund. A bespoke, high-level mentoring support programme is also offered over a 12-month period.

—

RETAIL TRUST OFFERS SUMMER SCHOOL FUNDING Industry charity the Retail Trust will offer a number of fully funded and partfunded places at this year’s Oxford Summer School as part of its ongoing initiative to support the sector at grassroots level.

The Summer School – which offers retailers from the shop floor upwards the chance to gain key business skills and develop their careers – will comprise a foundation-level course in July and an academy-level course in August. “For 183 years we have been supporting the grassroots of this great trade of ours,” says Richard Boland, chief executive at Retail Trust. “By continuing to be the headline sponsor of the Oxford Summer School programmes, we are investing not only in the future of the sector we represent, but also in growing the reach and relevance of the charity. Developing individual talent and creating the opportunity to aspire, for all involved, is central to our Retailcore programmes.

We are privileged to work in an industry where you can start on the shop floor and aspire to be in the boardroom.”

— CONTINUED SUCCESS FOR THE LONDON PRINT DESIGN FAIR The London Print Design Fair, which offers print, embroidery, knit and vintage design, welcomed more than 1,000 visitors to its event held last month (23-24 April 2015), proving its third edition to be its strongest to date. With over 40 exhibitors, the show saw both domestic and international print studios exhibit their latest collections. With a strong presence from international exhibitors, there was a multinational offering for visitors across the two-day event, which was held at The Lindley Hall, London SW1P. Sister show The London Textile Fair, meanwhile, cemented itself as the key textile trade event in the UK at its 12th edition in January this year. Taking place at The Business Design Centre, London, the show is dedicated specifically to European mills and is split into four sections – Textiles, Accessories & Trims, Print Studios and Vintage Clothes. Occupying a total of 4,800 sq m, January’s event welcomed 4,000 visitors and 360 exhibitors – a 20 per cent increase in comparison to the previous edition. The next edition of The London Textile Fair will take place on the 15-16 July 2015, while The London Print Design Fair will be held on 27-28 October 2015.

— LONDONEDGE RETURNS TO BDC Alternative fashion trade show LondonEdge has announced its return to the Business Design Centre, Islington. Taking place on 6-8 September 2015, the exhibition sees names from across menswear, womenswear, accessories and footwear. “It is an absolute pleasure to be returning to the Business Design Centre and to North London,” says Carole Hunter, managing director of LondonEdge. “Built in 1862, the building combines historic grandeur, a beautifully bright atmosphere and practicality. The location could not be better; there are plenty of underground and mainline stations around, it’s so easy to find. Just walk five minutes and you’ll find an array of cafés and restaurants offering cuisine to satisfy any cravings.

The BDC offers LondonEdge, its buyers and exhibitors a beautiful, sociable environment in which to do business.”

—

Heart of Fashion

Woman Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories Footwear Gent

9-11 August 2015 NEC Birmingham Apply to exhibit, or register for tickets at moda-uk.co.uk

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MAY 2015 | ADVICE | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: HOW MOBILE CAN BRIDGE THE ONLINE/OFFLINE DIVIDE

DAVID RUSSELL is sales director at Secure Retail and can be contacted via www.secure-retail.com

For some fashion brands and retailers, mobile is seen as a threat, as consumers come into stores to “showroom” a dress or pair of shoes and then buy the item cheaper online.

However, embracing the benefits of this channel can enable fashion businesses to forge a closer connection with their customers and help make sales whatever their route to purchase, as David Russell, sales director at Secure Retail, explains.

The predominant reason consumers use their mobile in the bricks-andmortar environment is because their multi-channel needs aren’t being fully addressed at the shelf edge. While the store is a unique environment for trying, seeing and touching goods, to some shoppers the experience can feel limited in comparison to e-commerce.

In order to address this perception, fashion brands and retailers should be looking for ways to incorporate digital into the physical shopping experience. Implementing in-store technology such as electronic shelf labels (ESLs), for example, can excite customers and better manage mobile interactions. ESLs not only display more information, they can include interactive features such as QR codes, linking to further product information or exclusive promotions. This brings smartphones into the offline experience, without retailers losing control over customer encounters.

Equally, introducing tablet solutions to the store can extend the capabilities of bricks-and-mortar shopping, enabling consumers to interact with products in a manner they are comfortable with – just like they do at home on the sofa. Either staff can operate tablets on behalf of customers, or shoppers can use them self-sufficiently to view product catalogues, look up different colours and sizes or check whether an item is in stock if it’s not available at the shelf edge. Consumers can even pay through these devices, bringing the convenience of one-device shopping into the store.

The blurring of lines between channels has been seen as a threat to traditional stores but, as these examples show, consumers no longer think in terms of store or online. What is important is availability and delivery. So by embracing new technology and behaviours, fashion brands can revitalise customer experiences and empower shoppers to create and manage their own journey to purchase, whatever the channel.

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WEB WATCH

WWW.THEBRITISHBELTCOMPANY.CO.UK The British Belt Company has announced the launch of its new website, designed to provide a customer friendly experience, improve navigation throughout pages and collections while allowing customers a greater insight into the brand.

The site is split between product collections and a new Discover section, which is a behindthe-scenes look into the origin of the products.

Additionally, the new website allows users to share products with others across Facebook, Pinterest and Twitter.

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NEWS

SHOPSTYLE SEES 55 PER CENT INCREASE IN WEB HITS Online shopping portal Shopstyle has reported an increase of 55 per cent in its website traffic over the past year, resulting in over £805m in retail revenue across the sector. The portal – which allows users to quickly find products matching an exact search such as “blue shoes” or “red top” – now works with over 1,000 retailers, representing over 10 million products.

Owned by Popsugar, Shopstyle has introduced more feature-led editorial in addition to its search engine, to which the company attributes in part its increased success. Having generated over £80m in sales revenue over the past year alone, the company is increasing its editorial focus with collaborations with renowned bloggers such as Susie Lau to create a one-stop inspiration hub.

“Shopstyle’s success is all about sending the most qualified traffic to our partner brands and retailers,” says Genevieve Kunst, vice president and managing director of Popsugar Europe. “Through both a traditional affiliate offering and tailored marketing packages, we partner with more than 1,000 retailers worldwide, resulting in a product catalogue of more than 10 million products.

“For customers, this means they are likely to find the exact product that they are looking for with one single search versus having to visit multiple websites.

For our partners, this means the traffic we are sending to them is deep in the purchasing funnel wanting to buy – a win-win. To ensure customers are able to find what they are looking for, Shopstyle has plans to integrate hundreds of new partners this year across the globe.”

Shopstyle attracts an average of 3.3 million visits every day from customers looking to purchase specific styles online without particular preference with regards to retailers. One independent shop that has found the business model to be a lucrative one is Psyche, a Middlesbrough department store retailing over 150 fashion brands across the menswear, womenswear and childrenswear sectors.

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MAY 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT ANDREW SMITH is the manager at Jonathan Trumbull menswear, in Norwich, and is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB)

DEDICATED MENSWEAR STORE FOR THE CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL COMPANY The Cambridge Satchel Company is set to redesign its first bricks-and-mortar store to cater for its growing menswear audience, alongside the launch of a dedicated menswear collection.

Located in Covent Garden’s Short Gardens, the shop takes its inspiration from traditional British outfitters and production techniques, using materials such as oak, tweed, brass and leather in its construction, fixtures and fittings.

“Around 20 per cent of our customers are men,” says Mario Muttenthaler, CMO, The Cambridge Satchel Company. “Our range of traditional satchels has always been unisex, and music bags, as well as backpacks, have been very popular with men. “In 2014 we launched our expedition range, work bag line and a premium collection called the Saddle Collection – which were all tailored to men and well received. It was therefore a natural step to launch a fully fledged menswear collection.”

Muttenthaler, who joined the brand last summer from Mr Porter, adds, “We identified a real need for an accessible range of good quality, utilitarian, British-made bags for men.”

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IN BRIEF POSITIVE RESULTS FOR DEBENHAMS Department store Debenhams has reported that its pre-tax profits have risen 4.3 per cent to £88.9m in the 26-week period to 28 February.

The half-year results were accompanied by the news that the retailer has slashed its debt by £62.4m, indicating that the business has embarked upon a period of recovery, following a challenging few seasons. The success has been attributed in part to an increased focus on online delivery, which has seen an increase of 12.7 per cent in sales during the same period.

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MANGO PROFITS SOAR TO ¤107M Spanish fashion chain Mango closed the 2014 financial year with a consolidated group turnover of ¤2.017bn, representing a 9.3 per cent increase on the previous year, driven predominantly by the brand’s international markets, which accounted for 82 per cent of the turnover, with 18 per cent generated by domestic sales. Mango’s growth has been driven by the group’s aggressive national and international expansion through its megastore concept, which was launched in 2013. The new stores sport a surface area of 800 sq m to over 3,000 sq m and offer all or most of the group lines, including womenswear, menswear, kidswear, and Violeta, the brand’s plus-size range.

—

I’ve been here 25 years and I know a lot of our customers very well in terms of what they seek from us at Trumbull’s. We work on a personal service basis, so each customer tends to be cared for by a particular member of staff who understands their needs.

I would say over the last 10-15 years, our customers have become more brand-focused.

Paying attention to the way our customer shops, we have changed the layout of the shop floor from being product-led to brand-orientated.

Our customers are increasingly loyal to a chosen brand and we felt this layout would meet their needs while also giving the visual merchandising a more minimalist and modern edge.

One brand that receives incredible loyalty here is Oliver Sweeney. Our customers love the label and we do very well with it. Our product-mix ratio has changed dramatically over the past 20 years. The shop floor now consists of 60 per cent casualwear and 40 per cent tailoring; whereas suits used to comprise around 50 per cent. Our top-selling brand is Stone Island, which retails from around £150.

With jackets retailing from £300 to £800, it’s a high-value line, which we rarely need to mark down in the Sale. Importantly, Stone Island controls the distribution very tightly, helping them keep the brand niche while preserving the exclusivity for us at Trumbull’s. The brand also discourages us from increasing our buy dramatically each season, which speaks volumes about how they value their label.

On this subject, the worst thing for independents here is the impact of House of Fraser, which is constantly running promotions. For that reason, it’s incredibly important for us to carry exclusive brands that are tightly controlled by the supplier.

Going forward, we’ll buy deeper and broader into existing brands, taking on Burberry Brit in addition to Burberry London, for instance. Exclusivity and customer service is what our customers will always visit us for and we will always deliver. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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MAY 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: JONNY GEORGE How has this season gone for you so far?

The Easter Bank Holiday weekend was our best in five years, so that was encouraging. Generally, s/s has been steady, with many of our core brands having a good response from our regulars.

— Did you cut your forward-order s/s 15 spend to have more budget to be reactionary in-season?

Yes, I cut back around 15 per cent on our forward-order buy, in order to add more in-season product. S/s is a long season and the store can start to look tired come May/June unless you inject new stock to JONNY GEORGE, OWNER, spark the customer’s interest.

ELEMENTS, NORWICH — Which brands are offering decent key pieces on stock or short order? How quickly can you get it in?

The classic sports brands are back. Fila Vintage has been lapped up by the lads in-store, with its classic polos, “trackie” tops and tennis shorts all performing well. We sold half the shorts by March. And stock is always available. It’s definitely the leading brand in its category – it has been careful to keep the distribution limited, which is good for its longevity.

— How important has a decent in-season supply become to the Elements business?

It becomes more essential every year. It gives us the flexibility to bring in relevant stock at two to three weeks’ notice. It enables us to respond to the needs of the store and customer, rather than relying completely on forward order and hoping for the best.

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IN FOCUS: W2 10 RUTHVEN LANE, GLASGOW G12 9BG

ESTABLISHED: AUGUST 2009 BRANDS: COMME DES GARÇONS, MARGARET HOWELL, MHL, FOLK, NORSE PROJECTS, S.N.S HERNING, AVVIKK, CÔTE & CIEL

NUDIE JEANS OPENS SHOREDITCH STORE Swedish organic denim brand Nudie Jeans has unveiled its latest retail location in the heart of East London, on Shoreditch’s Redchurch Street.

The newest opening is the brand’s 19th worldwide, and second in London, joining the Soho store, which opened its doors in spring 2013.

Designed by the in-house interior architecture team, the store bears a distinctive “reclaimed meets minimalist-industrial” aesthetic.

A key design objective was to give the 780 sq ft space a signature Nudie Jeans’ handwriting without making it feel brand new.

Reclaimed Victorian pine floorboards represent one of the brand’s core values – sustainability. Natural vegetable-tanned leather, organic dry denim and zinc were all materials chosen due to the ability to change naturally, tying in with the label’s ethos on denim – to be worn like a second skin to age and develop character over time.

— IN BRIEF

W2 emerged from what was the last example of the Comme des Garçons’ Guerrilla Store projects (which opened in October 2008). The quirky nature of a former cowshed, adjacent to the last dairy farm in Glasgow’s West End, built in 1870, was ideal as a Guerrilla Store, close to but not part of an urban high street, that is Byres Road. The name comes from the former postcode of Glasgow, which was W2, before the national postcode changes. It is also a nod to owner David Mullane’s former business. Mullane was the founding merchandise director of The Warehouse (1978-1994) in Glasgow, a six-floor multi-brand operation, which became an institution in a city that loves fashion just about as much as it loves football. W2 is a long space with 12 “bunks” of clothing and accessories. These house Comme des Garçons’ finest kit alongside the likes of Margaret Howell, Folk, Norse Projects and S.N.S Herning. There are also more than 50 examples of fine fragrance from Comme des Garçons Parfum, three long rows of Comme des Garçons wallets and rucksacks from Côte & Ciel. Mullane’s love of music means that visitors can enjoy the sound quality from Linn Keilidh speakers in what is a relaxed and friendly environment with an emphasis on customer service.

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HALF-YEARLY SALES UP AT PRIMARK Value retailer Primark has seen a 15 per cent rise in its half yearly sales, boosting its profits to £322m. The figure represents a substantial boost in revenue for the retailer, which saw profits of £298m during the same period last year. “This is a sound trading result with significant progress made in operating profit by Primark,” says George Weston, chief executive of AB Foods, parent company of Primark. “Primark’s performance was driven by significant expansion of selling space and superior trading by the stores opened in the last 12 months and plans for its entry into the north-east of the US are well-advanced.”

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MAY 2015 | INTERVIEW | 16

INTERVIEW

NICK KEYTE John Lewis is growing its store presence, with a flagship department store in Birmingham opening this autumn for starters.

It’s also growing its menswear offer across both own-brand and bought-in labels, and it seems more contemporary looks are proving the way forward, as Tom Bottomley discovers from Nick Keyte, head of buying for menswear.

— Tom Bottomley: While other large retailers seem to be cutting back on floor space, is John Lewis still expanding its bricks-and-mortar business?

Nick Keyte: We are indeed, and it’s putting us in a really strong position. We haven’t got enough stores, it’s as simple as that. We have a fantastic pipeline of store openings over the next three years. Our newest store in Birmingham is launching in September. It’s a full-line department store, which is part of a huge new development above Birmingham New Street station, and we see that as being our Midlands flagship. It’s a fantastic new concept and we’re using all the technical innovation available.

— TB: Where else are you looking at opening new stores?

NK: The fact is, unlike most sizeable retailers, we don’t have enough stores to reach all of our customers. We are in most major cities and towns across the UK, but there’s definitely room for more. So we have also announced plans to open full-line department stores in Leeds in 2016 and Westfield London in 2017. And we are also opening flexible, scaled-down department stores in Chelmsford in 2016, and Oxford in 2017, as well as an At Home in Worcester, also in 2017.

We currently have 43 stores – both department stores – of which there are currently 31, and At Home standalones, but we are looking at

HEAD OF BUYING, MENSWEAR JOHN LEWIS

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growing that to up to 65 stores in the long-term.

Our most recent shop opening was our firstever Click and Commute format in London’s St Pancras in October 2014. So there’s a lot going on, and menswear is an essential and growing part of the business.

— TB: Are your like-for-like sales for menswear up on last year?

NK: Year-on-year they are up, so we’re in a really strong place. Online is also trading extremely well. Fashion on the whole is up eight per cent – which is not easy to achieve in the current market, where there is so much discounting going on.

That’s not what we do.

— TB: So is there a certain formula to what you’re doing?

NK: We are aided to a certain degree by new store openings, but we’re not getting complacent, that’s for sure. We’re happy with how it’s going, but there’s also more opportunity out there. It takes plenty of hard work to get to plus eight per cent. There’s been a lot of press about how the feel-good factor is coming back, but it will never stop being a competitive marketplace.

We’re a full-price retailer and we’re competing against a lot of promotional retailers, so we have to work very hard to deliver those numbers. The Never Knowingly Undersold policy is still key for John Lewis, but only applies to other bricksand-mortar and other omni-channel retailers like ourselves. It does not apply to pure play onlineonly stores, because it’s a completely different business model.

— TB: How much of your menswear growth is driven by own-brand?

NK: Own-brand represents around 40 per cent of our menswear offer, across three different brands – the most established being John Lewis the master brand. We then have Kin and John Lewis & Co, which were launched s/s 13 and a/w 14 respectively. They are part and parcel of trying to broaden our position on menswear by offering customers a contemporary assortment. Kin takes a very modern design direction, in a Scandinavian minimalist aesthetic. John Lewis & Co is a more premium product, which is as directional and trend-led, but more archive and prevenance based. We like to think we’re appealing to a

MAY 2015 | INTERVIEW | 17

slightly more urban customer, but we’re using a lot of our archive as inspiration. In the archive, in Odney near Maidenhead, we’ve even got curtains from the Titanic. It’s quite an amazing archive of products that we have produced over the years. And, as we celebrated John Lewis’ 150th anniversary last year, we’ve got a lot to go on when it comes to design inspiration in keeping with our heritage.

— TB: Have you also been taking your bought-in brands in a more directional route?

NK: It has definitely been part of our strategy.

That’s where the customer is going. We’ve recently brought in the likes of Wood Wood, Soulland, Bellerose and Eleven Paris. Many people wouldn’t necessarily associate those kind of brands with John Lewis, but it is all part and parcel of trying to develop a more contemporary handwriting, because there’s generally more growth coming from more contemporary menswear, both across brands and own-brands. Where we see customers wanting a more contemporary proposition, we try to develop it for them. Certain branches have got a much more directional assortment than others aligned to their customer base, and they are the branches that are proving we need to be getting those kind of brands in. Brands are a higher proportion of our sales at 60 per cent, but ownbrand is growing at a similar rate.

— TB: So are your customers changing in some respects?

NK: I think our customer is evolving, and we are trying to focus more and more on our key customers. We have a broad customer base, and we are fortunate to be seeing growth across all areas. But customers are increasingly demanding a more contemporary branded assortment, and are buying into newness readily. I’m not sure it’s an age thing, it’s more a mentality. Customers in general have become more style savvy, there’s no doubt about that. It’s all about how good you feel, and how good you look.

— TB: Do you also have exclusives with key brands to further give you a point of difference?

NK: Yes, it has become more important. A good example is the exclusive Barbour Laundryman collection for a/w 15. They are unique pieces, timeless shapes with a contemporary twist, and it has worked extremely well. For the 150th anniversary, we also offered exclusives from brands such as Levi’s, Ted Baker and Fred Perry. If we get the opportunities to do such collaborations again we definitely will. We need a unique selling point (USP) as much as the next retailer, and exclusives can play a key part in that by helping to underpin our assortment and drive awareness. We have strong relationships with a lot of brands, and exclusive ranges and collaborations are very important to keep things fresh. It’s a conversation we have with key labels every season, and it obviously has to be right for them as well as us.

— TB: What would you say are your top five “hero” brands?

NK: Ted Baker, Polo Ralph Lauren, Barbour, Levi’s and Fred Perry are among our most established brands, and they are constantly developing new ranges with us. But as I said, we are also seeing tremendous growth with our more contemporary brands, which represent great opportunities for us.

— TB: Do you tailor your menswear buying for certain stores and areas?

NK: We do, for sure. Certain branches carry a more modern and contemporary offer than others, and we endeavour to tailor the brand and product mix accordingly where we can. Across buying and merchandising on menswear we have a fantastically committed team of around 60 people, and they’ve all got their work cut out.

— TB: Has the big success of your Click and Collect service been a surprise?

NK: I wouldn’t say it’s been a surprise, but it has been a rapid growth. Customers have really embraced it, and it’s a high proportion of our business. I think that because we have the benefit of the Waitrose distribution as well, it’s a very convenient service for our customers, and it gives us a wider network of collection points.

“Customers in general have become more style savvy, there’s no doubt about that.

It’s all about how good you feel, and how good you look”

12TH – 15TH JUNE 2015

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GIEVES & HAWKES, SS15

OPEN HOUSE EVENTS IN PARTNERSHIP WITH WARSTEINER LAGER

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MAY 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 19

P R O D U C T

THE DENIM INNOVATOR Premium brand DL1961 continues its innovation in denim with four key lines for a/w 15. The New York label, established in 2008, comprises the classic DLX denim, a blend of American cotton and XFIT Lycra or Dual FX™ that aids fit and comfort, and the DLPRO style – featuring the absorbent ProModal™ fibres, which cuts the dying, washing and treating processes in half by conserving water, dye, energy and time. The core collection also includes the DLX Hybrid, which boasts a higher percentage of cotton compared to other fabrics, while the XTWILL model sees American cotton and Lycra combined in specialised constructions and weaving processes to create a breathable and flexible twill that can be worn all year long.

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MAY 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 20

RADAR Spotlighting style

PLAYING THE GAME

DML JEANS ESTABLISHED: 2010 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Traditional five-pocket denim, with a contemporary twist.

— HISTORY: The brand was established by Denim Merchants in Manchester, with a drive to deliver a quality, design-focused denim collection.

DML Jeans offers its customers quality design, and promises retailers a good mark up without compromising on the design. It also operates a stock-based service, allowing retailers to purchase stock as and when it is required. Product design is inspired by traditional denim craft manufacturing processes, which is evident throughout the brand’s collection. Styles include the classic five-pocket design but with a contemporary twist, with garments regularly subjected to modern treatments and washing in the brand’s own washing plant. The range typically attracts customers aged 18-40 seeking quality design at affordable prices. Stocked in over 120 UK independent retailers, the brand has gathered a strong following, though it plans to expand further. With plans in place to run as a concession in a UK department store and having found success in international markets, a standalone store is no doubt in the pipeline. Next season will see the label build on its core product line, while introducing new fabrics and wash techniques, before launching a premium denim collection for s/s 16. Wholesale prices range from £7 to £12.

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Established in 2010, premium denim label Snakes & Dagger is the brainchild of two friends, Bayo Lasaki and Roy Westfield.

Growing up in London, their combined styles, creativity and influences are clear to see throughout the collection. The craft of making Snakes & Dagger jeans is guided by the principle of beginning with a beautiful piece of denim. All styles are made from Japanese selvedge denim with artisan techniques to make sure no two pairs are the same. Averaging at £170 wholesale, the brand is currently stocked in Browns, Tailor of the Tannery and L’Eclaireur.

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FIT FOR THE EVERYDAY MAN Contemporary men’s footwear brand Frank Wright has teamed up with popular menswear blogger The Everyday Man to create the styling for its a/w 15 collection. The Glaswegian blogger, whose real name is John Robertson, has been listed as one of the UK’s most influential men’s bloggers, and covers fashion, fitness, lifestyle and more.

“We are always looking at ways to further our brand and ensure we are at the forefront of the men’s footwear industry,” says Donna Hill, PR & marketing manager. “We are huge fans of John’s blog and his style, and we are excited to collaborate with him on this project.”

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MAY 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 21

PRODUCT NEWS Spotlighting style FUNCTION MEETS FASHION The Healthy Back Bag Company has launched a new range of men’s bags for s/s 15. Traditionally known for its colourful range of teardrop-shaped designs, the company has continued to grow its collection this season in direct response to customer demand.

Featuring new colours, larger sizes, dedicated iPad/ tablet sleeves and shoulder bags, the new season sees the addition of the Active Silver Bag – a medium-size expanded bag, which is lightweight yet has a 13-litre capacity.

“The expansion into men’s accessories is in direct response to customer demand for men’s and unisex bags,” says MD Priscilla Chase, who introduced The Healthy Back Bag to the UK in 2004. “This is underpinned by investments to our website, which now makes it easier for our male customers to search for and find their ideal bag.

“The market for man bags is growing, and we are happy to develop styles, colours and features that meet the demands of this sector,” she continues. “We oversee every step of our product development, and all our man bags combine the practical benefits of our Healthy Back Bag concept with styling and functionality that makes them stand out in the men’s accessories market.”

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HOMAGE TO HELSINKI The a/w 15 collection from Scandinavian label Frenn looks to its hometown of Helsinki for inspiration – think relaxed dressing, the granite of old buildings for both colours and textures and bold graphic prints from the vibrant Kallio district.

Fabrics include wool felt, tweed, denim, knits and cotton jerseys, while creative details from linings and bindings to pockets assures functionality and style for everydaywear.

A new style introduced this season is the Sampo trousers, which have evolved from basic black suit trousers. A waistband and a soft wool fabric adds comfort, while a lightly constructed sports jacket – Jere – is added alongside a poplin shirt to create a modern uniform.

—

>>>

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

OHW? X BUCKET & SPADES Men’s footwear label Ohw? has launched an exclusive suede moccasin boot style as part of a collaboration with Lancashire-based lifestyle blogger Matthew Pike of Buckets & Spades. Pike uses bright hues on the three-eyelet boot, reflecting his love for striking design. The shoe features a colourful combination of different shades of blue contrasted with red laces and an orange lining.

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MAY 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 22

RADAR Spotlighting style

CROSSING INTERNATIONAL WATERS

SGR SKL ESTABLISHED: 2012 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Garments and jewellery are made to be stacked and layered. Layers, shapes and textures are all interchangeable, for the ultimate style flexibility.

— HISTORY: Brothers and co-founders Luke and James Cottingham launched the brand in Sheffield, with a desire to create a unique product and deliver it on a global scale.

Luke and James Cottingham launched SGR SKL in 2012, with an aim to innovate menswear.

With a focus around simplicity and creating an understated look, the brand retains a bold monochrome aesthetic throughout its high-fashion streetwear range. Introducing a range of garments and jewellery to the label’s typical market fashion-conscious customers aged 21-35, the brand has built a strong following with the Scandinavian and Asian markets.

The collection is currently available to UK customers at The Inherited Shop, Store33 and Lambert’s Yard. Strongly influenced by their home town, the jewellery collection is manufactured in Sheffield, with a number of upcoming projects in conjunction with the city also in the pipeline. Working closely with Sheffield retailer The Inherited Shop, the label recently launched a collaborative collection including a .925 sterling silver bangle and ring set. Wholesale prices available on request.

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Menswear label Soulstar Clothing has ventured into international markets by entering the US and Mexico.

The move sees Soulstar add to their successful global portfolio, with the brand already established and selling in more than 30 countries worldwide, with over 500 stockists internationally from Dubai, through Japan to Australia. Soulstar offers urban styling mixed with casual classics, giving their garments edgy touches for a unique look that separates them from the rest.

Combining its Northern Soul roots with more modern directional styling, the brand reflects the latest catwalk trends and appeals to the contemporary male that likes to stand out from the crowd. The new season will also see the launch of a new capsule denim range, which comprises skinny fit mottled denim drainpipes, button-down day-to-evening shirts and summer shorts – all in varying washes.

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IN BRIEF AN ACE PARTNERSHIP This summer sees sunglasses label Sunpocket partner with Ace Hotel to create a collaborative pair of sunglasses for the on-the-go traveller.

Reinterpreting Sunpocket’s sleek, classic tortoiseshell Samoa silhouette, the glasses are fully foldable with polycarbonate lenses. Designed with 100 per cent UV protection, the design is created for those with an active outdoor lifestyle. The Ace Hotel x Sunpocket Sunglasses retail at £75.

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MAY 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 24

DOUBLE TWO £12.99 01924 375651

DIGEL £38 0049 7452604236

SAMSOE & SAMSOE £103.80 020 3137 3901

AIGLE £28 01608 813860

ANTONY MORATO £61.80 020 7739 8560

SKOPES PRICE ON REQUEST 0113 240 2211

HACKETT LONDON £43 020 7494 4917

TAILOR YOUR NEEDS Events such as summer weddings and the races mean a greater need for lightweight summer tailoring in-store and, while the trend remains classic in terms of colour, interest comes from prints and a mix of textures including denim and linen.

— Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

REALM & EMPIRE £34 01858 466729

BARBOUR £24 0800 009 988

DUCHAMP £176 020 8746 5999

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MAY 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 26

HYPE £9.99 0116 262 3048

ANIMAL £16 020 7940 7187

LAST BUT WON £12 07711 743569

CLUB TROPICANA From the achingly cool brands on the catwalks of London Collections: Men to the more commercial labels, bold tropical prints are still used in abundance – especially for s/s 15 – with a mix of brands offering Aloha shirts, palm-tree print shorts and floral accessories.

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SCHOTT £19.55 020 7481 2418 CONVERSE PRICE ON REQUEST 07879 686032 QUIKSILVER £14.80 07920 078135

DUKE £10 0115 977 0009

BELLFIELD £9.25 020 7739 7620

NATIVE YOUTH £8.50 020 7739 7620

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

STANCE £5.65 01243 670999

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MAY 2015 | LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | 28

TALENT SHOW As London Collections: Men continues to present the best in both British and international menswear, MWB discovers what’s in store for some of the new names to exhibit at the upcoming s/s 16 edition.

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Image: Greg Tallent Photographer

JONATHAN VAN BLERK CO-FOUNDER, EYE RESPECT

AUGUSTUS PILI FOUNDER, AUGUSTUS PILI Established: January 2015 Background: Bespoke footwear label Augustus Pili is the reincarnation of classic English craftsmanship in colour – both in complexion and in character. In men’s footwear, English handmade craftsmanship is arguably the best in the world. However, creatively heritage is a rich inheritance but also a servitude to acts of historic creativity. Pili is a self-taught designer and has worked for numerous British brands in his career. The Augustus Pili brand was born from the thought, “What if British craftsmanship could be reborn today?”

Signature style: The Magnus is the signature model of the collection, a classic Oxford shoe with modern lines and vivid contrasts designed in a way that is comfortable with blasphemies of style, be they fabric or colour. The Magnus range is proudly handmade in Northampton by master craftsmen.

Average wholesale price: £150 Who would you say is your target customer? We are interested in interesting men doing interesting things with their lives. Self-starters and initiative takers. It could be a social enterprise, it could be start-up. It could be a quest for self-improvement. It’s not too important what it is. What are you passionate about? What can we learn from that? We are interested in meeting those types of people as we too pursue our passion. That meeting point is an inexhaustible well of inspiration and motivation. Creating something is tough. Bringing about change is tough. We view “suiting” men up for battle as an honour.

Where do you draw your inspiration from in terms of design? Our designs are strongly inspired by the past but not constrained by it. Last season the inspiration was retro comic book covers, utilising the unique colour combinations to guide the collection. For s/s 16 we’ve been looking into sustainability. I want Augustus Pili to be sustainable from birth. Kering has done some pioneering work with IUCN on this and we want to work with others to find the pathway to grow sustainably for a young brand. I was inspired by trips to the Natural History Museum and pioneering British naturalists from the 17th to 19th centuries who would travel to the tropics and return with intricate drawings of fantastic flora and fauna. The inspiration for this collection is “birds of paradise”.

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Established: 2010 Background: The eyewear brand was created by Jonathan Van Blerk and Ana De Barros. While caring for the eyes of their customers, and offering the finest hand-crafted product at the correct price to market, the duo also set out to embrace, utilise and promote the work of skilled artisan craftsmen and factories, and help the wider consumer understand exactly what goes into landing a pair of Eye Respect frames.

Signature style: The Dylan, which “rewrites all the rules”.

Average wholesale price: £75 Which stores are you currently stocked in? The Shop At Bluebird, Duke Street Emporium, Kapok, 10 Corso Como, Beaker, Urban Outfitters USA. Is the brand in any international markets? Yes, we’re in the US, Canada, Japan, Singapore, South Korea, France, Spain, Germany, Italy, Austria, Switzerland, Greece and Turkey.

What does s/s 16 have in store for the brand? We have become an official partner of Mercedes Benz AMG Petronas Formula One so it is going to be unbelievably special.

Where do you draw your inspiration from in terms of design? Faces, streets and fit are the most important design aspects.

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ROBERT ROOPE FOUNDER, BLACK EYEWEAR Established: 2005 Background: Vintage eyewear label Black Eyewear combines Robert Roope’s passion for jazz with a lifetime of experience framing faces to create the ultimate retro eyewear collection. Roope created the brand as he was frustrated with the lack of simple, classic eyewear designs available over the past 20 years.

Signature style: Vintage-inspired bold iconic styles with a contemporary feel.

Average wholesale price: £67 Is the brand in any international markets? We have stockists in Germany, Sweden, Finland, Holland and Korea.

Who would you say is your target customer? Fashion-conscious buyers who are looking to express their individuality, and in particular the creative community in music and fashion industry.

What does s/s 16 have in store for the brand? New this season is the oversized Art Deco inspired Paloma style, which features layered two-tone shades. In addition, exciting new colours are introduced this season for the popular Zoot and classic Courtney frames, as worn by Lady GaGa and Will.I.Am. Vibrant new pinks and purples as well as pastel shades and matt finishes are also available.

Where do you draw your inspiration from in terms of design? I take my inspiration from UK eyewear styles of the 50s and early 60s, when glasses were made by frame makers rather than eyewear designers; most frames were handmade in small UK factories. The 50s frame makers made comfort fitting a top priority, as well as making shapes that blended with the face shape.

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MAY 2015 | LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN | 29

CHRIS MOSSOM HEAD OF DESIGN, PECKHAM RYE Established: 1870 Background: The bespoke tailoring label was founded originally by Tommie and Charlie McCarthy over a century ago, but it was only this year when the brand’s ready to wear collection was launched, with Chris Mossom as head of design. He wanted to create a modern wardrobe of hero pieces that play on bespoke handwriting but offers an accessible contemporary must-have men’s wardrobe.

Signature style: There is always a real nod to historic English tailoring, whether it be the reworked use of a pin stripe –the cut of a trouser and the use of hero menswear pieces redesigned to be of the moment, the Harrington, Crombie or blazer.

Average wholesale price: £40 for shirts, £48 for trousers, £55 for knitwear, and around £175 for outerwear and jackets.

Who would you say is your target customer? He is very much an individual, free thinking, understands style and is not afraid to stand out. He enjoys clothes and understand the finer aspects and the mix of traditional senses and modern thinking. He very much leads the pack rather than follows in the style sense.

Where do you draw your inspiration from in terms of design? It’s a real mix. Our archive is always a great starting point, and a sense of our tailoring routes, whether it be a stripe or an original detail. Also whatever is going on around us at any given time, be it art, the guy on the street to the smallest detail in building or painting – even music plays its part.

Which stores are you currently stocked in? Selfridges, Harrods, Autograph, Bloomingdales and Isetan to name a few key stores.

Is the brand in any international markets? The accessories part of the collection currently sells in Japan, the US and Europe, and we are of course looking to expand the RTW collection internationally – it’s gained real interest, but it’s important for us that we launch in the right environments and the collection is presented in its true sense.

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CHRISTOPHER BROGDEN, FOUNDER, CBS LONDON Established: July 2014 Background: Premium menswear label CSB London was founded by Christopher Brogden after working for brands for over 10 years. The ambition from graduating London College of fashion was always to start his own label but to learn as much about the business as possible first.

Signature style: A finegauge roll-neck layered with either a technical or leather blouson underneath a sharply cut coat with wide turned-up trousers and sneakers.

Average wholesale price: Outerwear £200-£300, blazers £140-£200, shirts £40-£50, knitwear £90-£100 and jerseys £30-£70.

Where would your dream retail location be? Currently we do not have a standalone store, but at the moment I would say that if we had the opportunity then I would like to open on Redchurch St in Shoreditch, which is already home to some great stores, but I think will start to become a real destination shopping street in the future.

What does s/s 16 have in store for the brand? The new season sees the collection moving in a more technical direction. I have a real obsession with sportswear detailing and techniques, so a lot of the outerwear this season will feature parkas that have been laser cut and have no stitching where possible – which has been achieved with pattern cutting and the technology of thermo welding or glued seams. Blazers are deconstructed with an “inside out” approach, while shirts and jerseys carry the modern and broken argyle prints that I produced in collaboration with graphic artist Ede. —

SANDY CHANG CO-FOUNDER, ST PIECE Established: 2014 Background: Design Studio St Piece was founded by Sandy Chang and managing director Ting Hsu. Chang has years of experience at some of the world’s top fashion houses including Alexander McQueen. Hsu’s background is in PR and marketing. The pair were friends for years before deciding in Christmas 2013 to start a company as a side project from their day jobs to sell products that would show off Chang’s design and drawing. What started as a side project became their full-time job in 2014.

Signature style: St Piece is a print studio, with brand’s signature style its intricate print details and the use of intense and opulent colours.

Average wholesale price: £16-£60 Which stores are you currently stocked in? Wolf & Badger, Independent Boutique and Greybook. We have an exclusive deal with Neiman Marcus in the USA from a/w 15. We are also stocked in Elise Boutique (France), Maiden Lane (Taiwan) and Tast Boutique (Taiwan).

Who would you say is your target customer? Our target customer is someone who loves fashion and enjoys dressing up, but still has fun and doesn’t try too hard. Someone who is suave and sophisticated yet still enjoys a little quirkiness for their wardrobe.

Where do you draw your inspiration from in terms of design? This season’s collection is inspired by my life experience and trips around the world and different culture motifs. There are strong hidden clues of Eastern and Western design influences, which reflect my background and upbringing. This is why St Piece’s prints are so different to what’s out there.

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MAY 2015 | PROMOTION | 30

PITTI UOMO 88 16-19 JUNE 2015, FORTEZZA DA BASSO

Dubbed as the “global platform for the fashion of tomorrow” the 88th edition of trade fair Pitti Uomo is set to showcase some of the best names in premium and contemporary menswear next month.

— Remaining one of the key international trade shows for menswear and contemporary lifestyle trends, Pitti Uomo will once again return to Florence’s Fortezza da Basso for its 88th edition next month.

From new classics, through cutting-edge, underground trends to the support of new talents, the show continues to present a dynamic, constantly evolving atmosphere where fashion, art, sport and design come together.

The upcoming edition will be bright and bold, with this season’s main theme That’s PittiColour taking inspiration from the nuances that surround us, the colours we wear and those in front of us, curated by Olivero Baldini.

The Menswear Guest Designer, meanwhile, will be Moschino; the brand’s first runway show featuring men’s fashion in Italy since Jeremy Scott took over as creative director. Moschino’s fashion show is a Florence Calling project in collaboration with MISE (Italian Ministry of Economic Development) and ICE Agency.

Other events will see Carlo Brandelli – the London-based designer of Italian origin – present his menswear collection for Kilgour with an installation event in Florence. Brandelli has created a menswear brand that unites art and the heritage of Savile Row with aspects of contemporary design. Carlo Brandelli for Kilgour is the Designer Project of Pitti Uomo 88 and is, again, part of the event programme Florence Calling.

Next month will see The Fondazione Pitti Discovery present II Signor Nino, the first-ever exhibition dedicated to Nino Cerruti: his products, ideas and style. Nino Cerutti has been one of the leading figures in Italian men’s fashion for nearly 50 years, with the exhibition curated by Cerutti himself alongside fashion journalist Angelo Flaccavento.

In co-operation with the ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative, Pitti Immagine will present Constellation Africa, a collective catwalk dedicated to promoting young and talented designers from the African continent. On the runway, Dent de Man, Maxhosa by Laduma, Orange Culture and Projecto Mental will showcase their collections, highlighting some of Africa’s home-grown talent which is now ready to step onto the international fashion stage.

Finally, the exhibition will see the second edition of Unconventional, the project dedicated to luxury underground international brands, as well as new project Open, dedicated to fashions that move beyond gender concepts – a sophisticated interpretation of new generation unisex collections, a rapidly rising segment that is attracting more and more of the international market’s attention.

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JEREMY SCOTT

HOW TO GET THERE Visitors can reach Florence airport with regular flights from London. But for most UK visitors, the easiest option is a flight to Pisa, followed by a short train journey from Pisa’s central train station with direct connections to Florence. Alternatively, there are regular flights from London to Bologna, which is an hour’s drive from Florence.

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MAY 2015 | UNDERWEAR AND HOSIERY | 32

FROM THE BOTTOM UP Underwear and hosiery are essential point-of-sale additions. MWB highlights some of the key brands to consider for a/w 15, from new names to the UK to classic brands still retaining their place in the market.

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COMFYBALLS Norwegian underwear label Comfyballs is making its way into the UK market for a/w 15, having made waves across Australia, New Zealand and now the UK with its controversial name. Established in 2013 by Anders Selvig, the label incorporates PackageFront™, an innovative design that claims to increase comfort by “reducing heat transfer and restricting movement”.

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PANTHERELLA Classic hosiery label Pantherella dives into its British heritage and design archive for a/w 15.

Texture such as herringbone, tartans and weaves are applied to rich autumnal shades, while softer patterns of blurred ombres work with wintery greys and blues. A key fabric used throughout is Escorial wool, which is destined to be worn with clean, sharp suits and traditional British tailoring.

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HJ HALL Classic British sock label HJ Hall presents its latest collection Generation V, which comprises a series of bold colour block and printed designs alongside its core collection of wardrobe staples.

Featuring elements such as anti-bacterial finishes, reduced shrinkage, colour saturation and natural absorbency, functionality is as important as style.

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BJORN BORG Swedish sports fashion brand Bjorn Borg is set to release a new underwear collection, entitled Iconic – available as part of its a/w 15 collection. The label’s legacy is brought into the present, pairing the signature waistband with modern materials, silhouettes and functionality. The range offers a short and trunk, with the Perfect Fit™ technology offering 95 per cent cotton and five per cent elastane mix for a soft and light feel.

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SCOTT NICOL Country and lifestyle sock maker Scott Nicol splits its a/w 15 collection into three themes – Country, Urban and Team. Country comprises classic autumnal shades of beige, burgundy and ivy green, while Urban features colour-block stripes, textured herringbones, multicolour weaves and contrasting trims. Team, meanwhile, is principal to Scott Nicol.

With a key focus on traditional British team sports, it is inspired by rugby, sailing and golf teams.

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JOCKEY Jockey has turned to New York photographer James Dimmock this season to create a series of iconic shots for its NOS range, with each piece styled in monochrome to ensure it never dates. “It seemed only right to have someone as talented as James to photograph our proudest pieces,” says marketing manager Ruth Stevens. “The shots show Jockey in a crisp, clean light, representing a modern look that shows the future of the brand.”

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UNDERWEAR IS OUR PASSION www.jockeyinternational.com

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E-TAIL NEWS FIRST-EVER QUARTERLY SINGLE-DIGIT GROWTH FOR ONLINE RETAIL SALES

CROSS-BORDER SHIPPING AND RETURNS MADE EASY International postage provider UKP Worldwide, which specialises in the mailing and distribution of e-commerce parcels, postcards, letters and magazines, has launched a new service that simplifies cross-border shipping between the UK and US. With offices in both countries, the company focuses on helping European businesses reach their US customers, creating a bespoke service and both outbound and return shipping solutions.

Low-value goods are shipped and delivered to US customers, while also taking care of customs clearance. Goods posted via a cost-efficient tracked service come with free email notification to the recipient, while goods posted via an untracked service get visibility of when items have been handed over to the US Postal Service (USPS) for final delivery.

UKP Worldwide also offers a bespoke returns service. The system allows the client to set the parameters for their returns service – from the customer being able to choose an exchange or refund, the number of days a return has to be completed within, or to whether the client wants to offer their customers free returns for a certain product value. For more information visit www.ukpworldwide.com.

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The latest figures from internet research company IMRG Capgemini e-Retail Sales Index reveal online sales grew nine per cent in March and 11 per cent in February, meaning that the Index has recorded only single-digit growth for each month in Q1 2015 – the first time this has happened in any quarter.

During Q1 2015, online sales grew by just seven per cent compared to Q1 2014, however this is on the back of a strong performance in Q1 last year, when annual growth stood at 17 per cent – the strongest Q1 growth seen since 2011. The growth is largely driven by mobile sales –purchases made on either a tablet device or a smartphone – which are up 9 per cent on the previous month and 46 per cent on March 2014. During the first quarter of 2015, mobile saw an increase of 38 per cent on the same period last year.

Online sales in March were boosted by Mother’s Day, with items within the gift sector up 20 per cent year-on-year and reaching a 48 per cent peak during the week leading up to it.

CYBERTILL OFFERS RESPONSIVE WEBSITES Cybertill has launched responsive websites that link to its Epos system for a seamless clicks-andmortar solution for fashion retailers.

This comes as a response to Google’s recent announcement that it will favour mobile-friendly websites in search-engine results, meaning that retailers who don’t have mobile-friendly websites will see a drop in their rankings over time.

“Retailers that sell online will need to ensure they have a mobile-friendly website, otherwise their rankings will drop and, as a consequence, so will traffic and sales,” says Cybertill CEO Ian Tomlinson. “We offer responsive websites to help retailers optimise their website’s performance. Google also recommends businesses have responsive websites rather than a separate ‘mobile’ website, too.”

Cybertill provides retail software, such as fully integrated Epos and e-commerce, which allows retailers to sell in-store and online seamlessly. It develops responsive websites that enable retailers to give their customers the convenience of easily shopping on their site, no matter where they are or what device they’re using. For more information email enquiries@cybertill.co.uk.

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MOBILE PHOTO STUDIO TARGETS INDEPENDENTS Eme Digital is offering mobile photo studios targeted at clothing, footwear and accessory retailers wishing to take their e-commerce photography in-house.

The mobile studios are available in varying dimensions suitable for a diversity of products, including the Fashion Flatshot XL, which is suitable for photographing dresses and coats and similar larger items of clothing. It features a uniform under-lighting with two extra product lights, creating high-quality images in a variety of formats and sizes.

Images taken with PhotoStudio software and a compatible camera can be quickly shared with others via email, dropped into any other image editing application or saved to a designated folder.

The photo booths are lightweight and portable and suitable for smaller retailers looking for a computer-controlled, constant volume lighting environment that fits into their set-up. For more information visit www.emedigital.co.uk.

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MAY 2015 | E-COMMERCE | 35

BLOGGING FOR BEGINNERS Blogging is one word that either has people shouting from the rooftops or running for the hills.

If you belong to the latter, this article by SEO consultant Jonny Ross is for you. Here, he shares his top tips on blogging for retailers, answering all those common questions and providing good reasons why you should be blogging.

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In this day and age, blogging is vitally important for any business, in any market sector. It should form the basis of everything you do online as it can provide you with great original content and can give real power to your SEO campaigns. So why are so many businesses in retail still shying away from it?

Well, blogging is a relatively new phenomenon, and trying to tackle such a daunting project is something that can seem impossible to achieve.

Where should retailers start?

Well, like anyone who is looking to start a blog, the first thing you need to do is to start reading blogs. This doesn’t necessarily mean that you have to start reading blogs that are specific to retail. Simply familiarising yourself with the blogging etiquette, what you should and should not be doing, what you think works well and ways to engage with your audience are all things that can be picked up when reading blogs. Not enough time? One of the benefits of blogs is that they can be accessed anywhere, anytime, on any platform. Whether you take five minutes on the bus to work to read your favourite blog or 10 minutes before you go to bed, taking the time to read blogs can really enhance the quality of your own blog.

Who should write the blog?

This is a very personal question and the answer will be entirely different for each business.

Your blog should be written by someone who understands your business and your products, but most importantly your audience. Your blog should engage and form a connection with the reader. Therefore, whomever you decide should write the blog, whether it be you or another employer, should have the same burning passion and heightened understanding of who the blog is aimed at and the type of content they want to read.

How do you decide on the content?

This is often a tricky thing to decide. However, do not panic. One great technique that can be easily implemented is a content calendar. This can be created weeks, if not months in advance. Simply draw out – either on a spreadsheet or large notice

board, however you work best – the days your blog will be published. Mark on any key events, such as Valentine’s Day or school holidays. Finally, go through and add on any industry events or events that are specific to your business. This way you will ensure that you can plan blogs that are relevant, engaging and informative for your readership while also being able to see what content needs writing for when and the date it needs posting.

Also take inspiration from current affairs – what is happening in your industry that you think would interest your readers? Is there a specific development or news story that will have an impact on your audience? Make sure that your content will engage with your audience and is most of all relevant without coming across as sales-orientated.

How often should I blog?

This question is extremely common, and it is a very difficult one to answer, almost the same as, “How long is a piece of string?”. In an ideal world, blogs should be posted once a week, preferably on the same day at roughly the same time so your readers know when to expect the blog and they can check in at the same time each week to read it. However, the world of retail never runs smooth and sometimes you need to simply post as often as you can. Creating a content calendar as mentioned before is a perfect way of ensuring you stick to a regular posting time as you will know exactly what needs to be written and when, allowing you to write blog posts in advance.

However, you also need to remain flexible.

A news story may break or there may be an announcement in the retail industry that would provide an interesting and engaging blog post. In this case, you may be required to post two blogs in one week. In answer to this question, there is no right or wrong. You simply must post as often as you can in order to achieve the maximum effect for your blog.

How can a blog drive sales? Is it an effective tool?

Did you know that companies that blog receive 97 per cent more links to their website than those

that don’t? This statistic is just one of many that highlight the true benefits that blogging can bring to your retail business. It is an effective tool of increasing audience engagement, improving online reputation, boosting your SEO and ultimately your Google Page Ranking, cementing your business as a “go-to” within your industry and increasing your online footprint. The list of benefits is truly magnificent. However, blogging can also drive sales. By driving traffic from one online platform to the other, it can increase traffic visiting your website which subsequently has an impact on the sales made.

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About Jonny Ross Jonny Ross is the founder of Jonny Ross Consultancy and has a proven track record in everything digital, from social-media campaigns to website design and development. With over 15 years’ experience working with B2B and B2C businesses, Ross is an expert on SEO and related topics.

For more information contact jonny.ross@jonnyross.com or visit www.jonnyross.com.

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MAY 2015 | E-COMMERCE | 36

WAYS TO PAY Card-not-present online and mobile payments are on the rise in the UK, making it increasingly difficult for merchants to stand out among competitors and attract digitally empowered consumers.

Julian Wallis, head of sales UK & Ireland at Ingenico Payment Services, explains what it takes to start selling online successfully.

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The use of mobile devices for payment is at an unprecedented level. According to an Ingenico Payment Services study, almost half (47.6 per cent) of all Europeans have a smartphone, which means that consumers are constantly connected and can purchase online whenever they want.

E-Commerce Europe, the institution that represents over 25,000 companies selling online products and/or services to consumers in Europe, expects the European B2C e-commerce market to double in size by the end of 2016, reaching 625bn Euros. As consumer confidence increases and new technological payment solutions continue to make it easier and safer for people to buy online, merchants must find new ways to engage with consumers if they want to increase sales and boost growth. To start selling online successfully, merchants will need to consider how best to set up online payment services, how to increase conversion at the checkout and improve business functionality while taking into account the latest developments in the payment world.

SETTING UP SHOP ONLINE Merchants need to consider two key components when setting up e-payment services – setting up a merchant account and payment gateway, and putting in place an adequate card fraud prevention scheme.

Most importantly, merchants will need to identify a merchant account and payment gateway that best suits their business needs and offer a streamlined and efficient payment process for customers. A merchant account is similar to a personal bank account, provided by a chosen acquirer that receives and processes funds from certain payment methods. A payment gateway connects the online shop to the acquirer so retailers can receive funds in their account from those payment methods. To set up an online shop successfully, choose a payment service provider that offers collect services that are tailormade to your business needs.

FRAUD PREVENTION SOLUTIONS Businesses must put in place an adequate fraud prevention solution – one that targets hackers

but doesn’t hassle genuine customers. While online payments offer businesses the opportunity to increase revenue and engagement with consumers, there are still some risks involved.

A study on fraud conducted by Europol, the European Union’s law enforcement agency, reported that 60 per cent of payment card fraud losses were caused by card-not-present online fraud, which equates to about 900m Euros.

Furthermore, a 2014 European Central Bank (ECB) report concluded that CNP fraud has increased by 21.2 per cent in the past year.

Not all businesses use specialist software to detect potential fraudulent transactions – the level of resource required will depend on the number of transactions and their retail sector. An Ingenico study about e-commerce business fraud concluded that e-commerce businesses with low online payment sales felt confident about their fraud management procedures and were manually checking transactions against black lists, customer history and other data. However, as businesses expand they will need to adopt a “fit for purpose” fraud management tool such

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as fraud prevention software instead of relying on authenticating all transactions manually.

The report also concluded that the single most important feature of a fraud management tool was 3-D Secure, which helps merchants to reduce fraud risk, yet adds an extra step in the payment purchase. The purpose is similar to using a PIN code or writing a signature for a transaction. In practice, enrolled issuers implement an additional step of consumer authentication. However, 3-D Secure has a polarising effect in that it has the potential to alienate genuine customers who find it inflexible and not user-friendly. It’s important for retailers to implement a system that works for them and offers an easy and user-friendly checkout process that identifies potential fraudulent transactions.

INCREASE CONVERSION AT THE CHECKOUT Merchants need to increase conversions at the checkout and improve business functionality if they want to start selling online successfully. An estimated 25 per cent of revenue is lost by UK online retailers every year as a result of poor user experience, leading to cart abandonment – that’s equivalent to £14bn.

To prevent cart abandonment and increase conversion at the checkout, merchants need to build consumers’ trust, act local and embrace tokenisation.

Payments are left incomplete as a result of lack of payment options, security issues, technical problems or an inflexible and complicated checkout process. In regard to security, for example, 17 per cent of shoppers have abandoned their cart because of security concerns – hence another reason to implement a fraud management tool such as 3-D Secure. According to a 2014 study on digital shoppers in the US, 58 per cent of customers abandoned their carts as a result of shipping costs being higher than expected, while 25 per cent of customers cited the inability to use their preferred method of payment as a reason for online cart abandonment.

Customers trust online shops that feature a secured “https” URL, recognised trusted marks and logos, clear information about the amount to be paid, as well as the retailer’s logo and branding. Retailers should also consider tokenisation, which saves time for frequent buyers. Merchants who offer to remember card details increase their conversion by an average of seven per cent. Tokenisation removes the customer’s credit card number and replaces it

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with a randomly generated number, which can be configured to expire after one purchase, making it a useless target for fraudsters. More importantly, tokenisation removes what would otherwise be a major storage burden from merchants, because they never see a person’s actual credit card information and it never enters their online payment service.

THINK GLOBAL, ACT LOCAL Merchants need to “think local” in order to increase conversion and boost business functionality. According to a 2015 Ingenico Payment Services study, 59 per cent of online shoppers abandoned their purchase when their preferred payment method was not offered.

To prevent card abandonment, UK businesses must think outside the “credit card” box and go global. As the UK market is maturing, online sales are set to continue to grow in Western Continental Europe. It is estimated that 40 per cent of European Union customers shop online; and sales in the 13 largest online markets in the EU are estimated to be 200bn Euros, growing at just under 20 per cent per annum, according to research commissioned by RetailMeNot. Considering these figures about cross-border e-commerce, UK retailers need to ensure their business is best placed to process overseas transactions. Cross-border e-commerce leads to increased revenues for UK online merchants and is arguably the best strategy for businesses who want to expand and boost growth.

Merchants will need to map the payment methods used across different markets and establish which countries they wish to target to process cross-border payments. Once retailers identify their international expansion strategy, they can determine their target markets. Executing a multi-currency option and accepting local currencies for local markets are two smart strategies for expanding e-commerce businesses across borders. As there are a huge range of payment methods out there, it’s important for retailers to identify which ones are most relevant to their market.

reported that thousands are using smartphones and tablets to pay. The IGN International Survey on Mobile Banking found that 51 per cent of Europeans with mobile devices will use mobile payment technologies over the next year. In the UK, payment apps such as Zapp are taking off and banks are signing up at increasing rates. While people still do use cash in transactions, mobile payment apps are giving customers more freedom and flexibility to manage their finances.

Since mobile payment programmes are relatively inexpensive and simple to implement, businesses need to capitalise on this opportunity to increase online sales. Businesses can incorporate incentive programmes into mobile payment applications. All of the customer’s details are stored in one place on their mobile phones each time they make a purchase. When merchants link payments to loyalty programmes, it adds value to the customer. Switching to mobile payments gives businesses, especially small businesses, the ability to track customer trends and inventory. Learning about customer demands allows for businesses to improve their services.

While the payment landscape and consumer demands seem daunting, there are various solutions for e-retailers to stand out among their competitors. Establishing streamlined and efficient payment services online, increasing conversion by adopting tokenisation and targeting international audiences to reduce cart abandonment as well as embracing the latest technological developments in the payment world are just a few ways that Merchants can increase sales and boost future growth projections.

There has been a paradigm shift with the rise of online and mobile shopping: instead of offering a personalised in-store shopping experience, retailers must cater to customers by offering customised payment options or premium security preferences – which makes choosing the proper payment technology all the more critical.

— Ingenico Payment Services is part of the Ingenico Group, a global leader in seamless payment.

For more information visit www.ingenico.com, call 020 3147 4966 or email Julian.wallis@ingenico.com.

“It is estimated that one in three people in Britain have used a mobile app to make payments”

MOBILE AND DIGITAL WALLETS: THE FUTURE OF THE PAYMENT WORLD It is estimated that one in three people in Britain have used a mobile app to make payments.

With the introduction of Apple Pay and Google Wallet – two leading payment services that allow payments to be made from debit and credit cards via a smartphone – it is no wonder that mobile payments are on the rise. An international study

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SPECIAL DELIVERY For independent fashion retailers and brands that sell online, finding the right packaging in small enough minimums can be a challenge. As well as ensuring goods get there safely and without damage, sellers also need cost effective packaging, which promotes their brand image and meets customers’ expectations on presentation. Here are four companies that tick all the boxes.

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BOXMART

TINY BOX COMPANY

Leading UK gift packaging supplier BoxMart offers an extensive range of gift boxes, tissues paper, ribbons and transit outers.

Its stock box collection can house anything from jewellery to bathrobes, while the ‘1 pack’ minimum order value, which is typically 25 boxes, is ideal for smaller businesses.

BoxMart can also customise its stock boxes with anything from a logo to promotional message or website address. Alternatively, it can create bespoke boxes to a required style, size, or colour, and include finishes such as film lamination or foil blocking.

01543 480163 www.boxmart.co.uk

Tiny Box Company provides a range of plain, branded and bespoke packaging, which is made from recycled and sustainably sourced materials.

Luxury rigid boxes are ideal for ties, shoes, belts, scarves, hats, gloves and other accessory items, and help enhance a clothing gift set. The array of corrugated mailing boxes, meanwhile, protect and safely export items. For finishing touches, ribbon, tissue paper, raffia and a range of packaging accessories are available.

The company offers a printing service on the majority of its boxes and bags, allowing for a company logo to be added at a small, additional cost. With a lead time of 10 working days (minimum of 50 units per size), printing is a quick and effective way to personalise a gift box.

Tiny Box Company has no minimum order for plain stock, ensuring its packaging is accessible to both new and established businesses. A Next Working Day service for plain stock orders is also available.

01342 810900 www.tinyboxcompany.co.uk

KITE PACKAGING Kite Packaging offers small businesses a range of packaging solutions through its website, with a choice of over 2,500 products, including mailing bags, cardboard boxes, tape and protection.

Kite’s white postal boxes (pictured) cater for e-commerce sellers and clothing retailers. The presentable boxes can be used with tissue and custom printed tape, which Kite also supplies through its website. Manufactured from sturdy carton board, the postal boxes are strong and protect goods from damage in transit. Minimum order quantity for smaller boxes is 50–100 units.

For the larger boxes, it is 25–50 units.

024 7642 0065 (Opt 1) www.kitepackaging.co.uk

SLP PRINT SLP Print provides high-end dispatch and POS packaging, enabling retailers to deliver products with a personal touch in attractive, branded boxes with associated packaging and accessories.

The company specialises in bespoke packaging solutions available in small runs from 500 plus. Whether working with paper or plastic, using die cutting or embossing, foil or spot varnishes, SLP strives to create something special to enhance the brand and enrich the buying process.

Eye-catching special finishes for branded boxes and a selection of accessories allow for no selected purchase or gift to be delivered as “run of the mill”.

There is also a strong focus on safe delivery, and secure return options are available. A bespoke design service is also offered, with a range of boxes available in a wide variety of functional, quality specification materials, with 3D prototypes obtainable on request.

01535 611779 www.slpprint.co.uk

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OPEN FOR BUSINESS From logistics through personalisation to digital marketing, e-commerce is a complex undertaking and can be a minefield. MWB asked leading experts to give their top tips on how to optimise their online stores.

— TECHNOLOGY CAN CLOSE THE GAP FOR INDEPENDENT RETAIL

AUTHORITY MERCHANDISING – CONROLLING YOUR BRAND VOICE

Omnichannel retail has changed consumer shopping habits. Shoppers want to engage with retailers on their own terms, and demand a high standard of service online, in-store and on their doorstep.

Buzzword bingo Technology is seen as the starting point and finishing line for enhancing the customer experience, but it should only be a vehicle and not the driving force.

Retailers are constantly bombarded with buzzwords such as “beacons”, “wearables”, “personalisation” and “multichannel” and how they will differentiate them in an increasingly competitive market. However, it is no longer enough to just provide the “wisdom of the crowd” personalisation technology and expect immediate results. Brands need to retain the ability to control their brand voice and use their retail expertise with the support of personalisation technology. This is authority merchandising.

High expectations of convenience among customers can present a challenge to smaller retailers that do not have the scale to compete with e-commerce giants moving massive volumes. Scale need not be a disadvantage; boutique retailers can build a unique identity through clever use of social media, and can make use of online marketplaces to give their brand a reach far beyond their local area. In many cases, smaller retailers can enjoy a lower investment in technology without the need to overhaul expensive and out-dated legacy infrastructure.

Priorities for SMEs are beginning to change. In 2014, Collaborate UK – CitySprint’s annual look at the UK’s SME partnerships – showed an increase in outsourcing of externally facing aspects of their business.

Two of the top three most outsourced functions were “marketing and advertising” and “sales and customer service”, as businesses doubledown on their core strengths. In retail, the delivery of items bought online often shapes a customer’s lasting impression of their brand, and working with capable partners can do wonders for an independent retailer’s brand strength.

Retailers are waking up to the important role of delivery in e-commerce, as research from YouGov shows that issues with delivery can cause considerable damage to the brand of retailers – 32 per cent of those surveyed would blame a retailer rather than a carrier for a late delivery.

This has often been a stumbling block for smaller, independent retailers looking to offer customers greater convenience. Thankfully, help is at hand. Delivery partnerships can help to shoulder the burden on smaller businesses by providing consumer convenience even on smaller volumes, without compromising on quality. Partnerships like these allow SMEs and boutique retailers to offer a suite of delivery options like same-day and timed delivery, locker drop-off or click and collect, without significant upfront investment.

This brave new world does not need to be intimidating to indie retailers. Small, nimble retailers can thrive if they adapt their e-commerce platforms to move with the times by focusing on their own unique offering and outsourcing to partners that have the same commitment to customer convenience that they do.

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JOEY MOORE strategy director, Peerius, www.peerius.com

Clicks and misses In 2014, IMRG revealed that £104bn was spent online, meaning that ecommerce accounts for an estimated 24 per cent of the retail market.

The aggressive growth predicted, as well as mobile accounting for 40 per cent of all online retail sales, highlights that retailers need to assert their influence and expertise on their online merchandising in order to maximise the sales opportunity.

Both retailers and consumers can benefit from personalisation and one-to-one real-time engagement. Retailers can use it to optimise customer acquisition, retention and conversion, while consumers see products, messages, promotions, images and campaigns that are personally relevant to them.

Computer says “yes”; human says “no” Brand values can get lost if a balance between personalisation strategies and merchandising rules isn’t found. Retailers need to harness their data to truly understand the relationship between products and individual customers. By regaining influence over the technology outputs, retailers can ensure that what the customers see is intelligent and not intrusive.

Creating the context Personalisation has the ability to transform a retailer’s online engagement, but if done incorrectly, has the power to truncate the customer journey.

Authority merchandising empowers retailers to deliver their brand message and exert their retail expertise to show the right product to the right customer at the right time.

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PATRICK GALLAGHER CEO, CitySprint, www.citysprint.co.uk

EPoS Ecommerce

One Size Fits All

Cater to your customers’ online shopping habits, whether it’s on a phone, tablet or PC, with Cybertill’s Responsive Website Solution

www.cybertill.co.uk enquiries@cybertill.co.uk 0800 030 4432

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MAY 2015 | SHORT ORDER | 41

SHORT ORDER SAVIOURS With s/s 15 under way, it’s good to know you can pick up the phone and get an in-season injection of winning styles and colours when you need them. Here are some key players ready to replenish.

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NATIVE YOUTH The latest season’s collection is packed with relaxed lines and modern fits. Casualwear runs the game in style and look, with the enzyme washed cotton trimmed with space dye jersey creating the Bronson two-piece, a Japanese worker inspired take on the traditional tracksuit. Co-ordinating pieces consist of short-sleeved button-down shirts and shorts, and highlights include reworked versions of digital geometric prints and minimalist monochromes.

Strong outerwear pieces top things off nicely, with lightweight parkas and stripped-back updates of the traditional cotton mac.

Fabrications and finishing give the collection a premium feel that stands alone on the high street, with Urban Outfitters, Asos and House of Fraser key retailers taking advantage of the current indigo wash pack across tees, joggers and sweats.

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q

SPRING COURT

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PETER WERTH According to the brand, born in Islington, North London, and celebrating its 40th anniversary this year under the banner of Working Class Smart, its stock package is made up of several essential items that every man should have in his wardrobe.

A long-sleeved knitted polo shirt is one the label is famous for, and there’s also an Oxford shirt, a concealed button-down collar shirt, five-pocket jeans and a tee. It’s known as Peter Werth’s Elements collection, which makes up the base of the stock package to which they have now added some key items, presumably bestsellers from forward-order sales, from the s/s 15 main range.

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Ahead of the brand’s 80th anniversary next year, Spring Court has taken everything back in-house (ie away from the previous licensees) to return to its purist roots. It is now managed once again by the family of the original founder – no doubt why the likes of Oi Polloi have been attracted back to the brand and its canvas and leather iconic styles. Black, white and navy are always in stock, though the brand is also endeavouring to carry stock on more seasonal lines and colours, too. The s/s 15 collection is in stock now, including seasonal colours on the low-cut G2 shoe (pictured) and mid-cut B2 style.

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MAY 2015 | SHORT ORDER | 42

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WOLSEY The fox logo is where it’s at once again for this great old British brand, still based in Leicester. Established in 1755, Wolsey is well known for its high-quality knitwear, outerwear and performance products – sold out of its flagship store on London’s Brewer Street. In 2014, the label also launched a golf collection, now worn by a number of British PGA golfers. Par for the course when you make decent kit. In terms of in-stock pieces for this summer, there’s an indigo-dyed bomber jacket, a soft handle yarn camo jumper, a raglan sleeved brushed-finish sweatshirt, an overhead herringbone grandad collar shirt and a long sleeved Henley top with poplin trims. In the golf range, there’s a dip-dyed crew-neck jumper, a water-resistant graduated print jacket and a camo-print polo.

This year also keep your eyes out for Project 101, which looks back to when Wolsey supplied garments to British troops during WW1.

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LYLE & SCOTT The Never Out Of Stock programme from Lyle & Scott consists of key products in core classic colours that can run season in, season out – regardless of the time of year. There’s the core T-shirt, wholesaling at £9.25, the pique polo shirt at £18.50, crew-neck cotton knit at £30, V-neck cotton knit at £30, lightweight hooded jacket at £31.50 and core canvas pump at £18.80 – all ready to go. Depending on warehouse capacities, orders can be turned around in 48 hours. In coming seasons the brand sees the core product offer growing, too, with other possible inclusions set to include a Harrington jacket, crew-neck and hooded sweats, sweat pants and long-sleeved polos. But for now there is plenty to say the eagle has landed.

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BRAVE SOUL Currently available for s/s 15 and in stock, Brave Soul has over 100 products, with more hits due every week. There are bestsellers, and fresh seasonal trends – keeping it up-to-date and interesting for buyers, with bomber jackets, denim shirts, jeans and polos among the mix. The acid-wash denim effect is still big news across sweats and jean-joggers and, on true denims, the ripped effect is key. Brave Soul was established in Manchester in 2003, with an intent to provide fashion-forward customers with variety and choice across the board, and current stockists include Asos, USC, Foot Asylum and Next. There’s also Brave Soul Man, which features directional trends inspired by street style and city culture. Competitive prices are also a bonus.

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D555 BY THE DUKE CLOTHING CO Apparently s/s 15 has been the best summer yet for Duke, and the new flip-flops – wholesaling at £2.50 – have been a huge success with two different designs. The main focus is on the D555 by the Duke Clothing Co line, and there’s a host of short-sleeved shirts and shorts in stock for next day delivery. They are the winning styles that the brand has done a lot of business on, and that change with every season. Although the label does check shirts all the time, it is also developing new checks and improving trims and labelling to make the product look its very best at all times, despite the low price points – which is where the brand truly wins. The stock programme covers all areas from tees, shirts and shorts to jeans, jackets and accessories.

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WEEKEND OFFENDER Weekend Offender continues to evolve from its humble beginnings in Merthyr Tydfil, Wales. The focus has always been on quality design, quirky details and functionality, and the flagship shop and showroom in the heart of Soho have taken the brand to a new level over the last three years. Stock pieces for this season include the Suarez and Van Buren jackets, and shirts called Cruzado, Strathmere and Edge Water. There’s also the Pitbull polo and bucket hats, which are all the rage with the kids once again. There are usually options of winning styles in stock, though the brand is known to add a few new curveballs into the equation to spice things up in-season.

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MAY 2015 | SHORT ORDER | 43

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MERC The key staple for all Merc customers continues to be its famous Harrington jacket, which competitively retails at £90 in five colours and in sizes XS-XXXL. Demand for the jacket never seems to subside. Another Merc winner in stock is the Japster button-down shirt, again available in five colours and all the sizes, and the Neddy tartan button-down shirt for a smart Mod look. Available in navy tartan and Stewart red, Merc was missing some sizes and demand was growing for more so luckily a new drop has just landed in the nick of time. Another key carry-over item is the Hemmingway boating blazer, available in beige and navy, which has been picked up on by bands, actors and wedding parties. Merc has also recently kitted out characters for the upcoming Martin Scorsese film Tomorrow – filmed in London – and its renewed efforts on social media means the brand now has 16,000 Twitter followers and 32,000 Facebook followers. That’s got to say something.

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BELLFIELD

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L’ORIGINALE ESPADRIJ Established in 2006, but with production at one of the last remaining “cottage based” local family factories dating back to the 1800s in the South of France, the brand takes a humble summer shoe to a new level, and stockists include Aspecto, The Hip Store and House of Garmsville. Though production utilises the traditional process of old, the key thing is the improved fit, not like the versions from the early 80s Wham days that ripped your feet apart as you sloshed around in them. And a rubber outsole has been added to protect the jute rope bottom against wet urban and beach terrains. This is a true classic that’s been simmering on the footwear market for a while now, offering a valid alternative to Toms shoes, and stock is available now.

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DUCK AND COVER Generally a forward-order business, Duck and Cover supports just that with a continuity offer covering the key product groups and means retailers can replenish in-season when need be. With denim such an important part of the brand’s business, currently as much as 60 per cent, it has now introduced 14 “never out of stock” lines for this season, and the response has made it well worth it. There’s also plaid long and short sleeved shirts, jersey tees, V-neck knits and pique polos. To meet demand, Duck and Cover also adds new in-season styles to keep it fresh, but quick repeats on bestsellers is where it’s at.

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This season Bellfield focuses on a high-summer capsule collection called Waikiki Surf, which encapsulates a summer wardrobe for sun, sea, sand, sangria and the missing “s” if you can pull in this kit. There are 50s-inspired Hawaiian shirts for an Aloha feel-good factor, with authentic tropical prints “lifted” from times past, and washed out printed board shorts in pastel hues.

There are also vests for that “just popping to the beach bar to see what’s about” look, and tees with all-over prints to get the wearer noticed. When the storm hits, there’s outerwear in sporty silhouettes using waterproof fabrics, and when evening comes there’s a smart blue suede bomber following the 50s theme, and very Jimmy Dean. Shirts and shorts come in washed cottons, and workwear detailing and rockabilly motifs filter through the range. There’s also a core range of classic chino shorts, Oxford shirts, vintage look denim and athletic sweats. Enough to keep the season of sun covered.

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MAY 2015 | PEOPLE | 44

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK ARNOLD’S, SIEBENSTERNGASSE 52, 1070 VIENNA

SIMON SAYS There’s an old Chinese proverb that says, “Be careful what you wish for”. This came into my head last week during a visit to Tokyo. As always, I’d missed the cherry blossom. I’m usually too early, and there are boughs full of the stuff coyly in bud. As I take off they collectively burst out in a pink and white glory, waving up at my plane.

This time I was too late. A few sad petals clung to their twigs on the stretch from the airport, and here and there were drifts of blossom. But stay with me, readers; this is not a eulogy on Oriental Fauna.

My licensing manager, the ever-patient Mr Uchida, took us on a sightseeing tour of Tokyo. I’d seen most of it before, but my companion had never been, and the first time you see a Japanese department store, or a Shinto shrine, is quite a moment. We visited the Seibu store, where I was cheered to see a beautiful display of my licensed shirts, ties and my cufflinks. The Japanese produce intriguing designs just for their market; my favourite was a printed shirt featuring camouflage pandas. Don’t ask.

The store seemed busy. “You should have seen it at cherry blossom week,” said Mr Uchida. “It was so busy they were queuing to get in.”

Mr Abe’s government has recently relaxed the rules for Chinese visitors, making it considerably easier for them to come over and spend. And spend they do; that particular week, 30 per cent of Seibu’s turnover had come from Chinese tourists. There’s much talk here in the UK about relaxing visa requirements for the Chinese, and the Home Office would do well to look at Japan’s model.

“That’s great!” I said. “Good for all the stores.” Mr Uchida didn’t look happy. “Hmmm,” he said, which is as bad as it gets in Japanese. “Not always so good.” I did hope that China and Japan’s recent sabre rattling over their disputed islands may have been forgotten in the race to buy Tokyo’s luxury goods. But no, his reticence was more prosaic. Apparently, the Chinese are so intrigued and enamoured by the cherry blossom tradition, that their enthusiasm extends to pulling branches off the trees and taking them home as souvenirs. “Look over there,” he said, pointing to a sign on the lawn at the shrine. Written in Chinese, it explained that it was forbidden to pull off the branches.

In Mr Uchida’s opinion, the rush to open Japan’s doors to the Chinese was a very mixed blessing. I just hope that next year I see the blossom before it’s all shipped to Shanghai.

Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

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Since launching in 2010, owner Jakub Arnold has built a strong following of fashion-conscious customers at Arnold’s.

— Stocking an eclectic brand mix, with key labels in-store including Carhartt, Edwin Denim, Filson, Naked & Famous Denim, Merz B Schwanen, Norse Projects, Retrosuperfuture, Stetson, Tanner Goods, Tellason and Wood Wood, Arnold first set up shop with a desire to introduce a variety of niche brands typically under-represented in Vienna. Arnold, a former managing director with Carhartt, wanted to rival Amsterdam, London and Paris with his fresh range of stock. Offering brands not usually found on the high street, the store acts as a base for shoppers interested in unique style and brands that tell a story. Expect edgy fashion, friendly service and an in-store craft aesthetic.

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PLAN B

AMY GREENLAND, CEO, Harry Stedman

If I wasn’t in the menswear industry I would probably be a painter or geologist.

— As a kid growing up I was always painting, drawing and making things. It was a big decision to pursue either a fine art or design route in college. I like the idea of creating new things that have a function and are not just for display. That’s one of the reasons for me choosing to design menswear. I also enjoyed geography at school, albeit falling asleep in many lessons about urban planning. I was fascinated by volcanoes and rock formations though. That’s maybe why I love visiting places such as Iceland, Snowdonia and the Alps and spending time up in the mountains. I think whatever industry I was going to end up in, these environments would always influence me.

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MAY 2015 | PEOPLE | 45

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL DANIEL CHAMIER OWNER, CHAPMAN BAGS A man needs a jacket to be properly dressed, and in summer I tend to reach for my Gieves & Hawkes blazer most days.

You can wear it with jeans and chinos, shirts and polos and it always looks right. I favour a single-breasted style; double breasted can be a bit much in summer and looks stuffy with casual clothes.

— You can’t beat a nice pair of moleskins, and my RM Williams are just the ticket; I’ve lost count of the number of pairs I own. They are comfortable all year round and acquire a nice wear over time. The interesting thing about the colour is that after a few washes, the natural fade hides marks, unlike white jeans for instance.

— Desert boots are a weakness of mine and the current pair are from Oliver Sweeney.

They are so comfortable to wear and bring back happy memories of my Dad – another desert boot lover. I am thinking about acquiring a pair in a different colour to wear with jeans.

— My daily bag is of course a Chapman, and I have been carrying the canvas Folio for a while. It combines everything I need in a daily bag and strikes the right balance of traditional formality and understated style.

— I love tweed and although it rarely gets an outing in high summer, there are still 7 months of the year (even more when up North) when it’s rarely off my back. My latest tweed jacket is a beautifully made piece from Cordings with a burgundy lining. It looks equally handsome with moleskins or jeans.

— Here’s a handy tip for those like me who dislike carrying umbrellas. I always carry a tweed cap instead. They fold neatly into a small triangle and keep your head dry during showers.

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TOP TWEETS Lambert’s Yard @LAMBERTSYARD Happy @RSDUK ! Pop in and show us your lovely vinyl. Support independents @JumboRecords @Crash_Records @ normanrecords #independentleeds Telegraph Men @TelegraphMen Boil it, mash it, stick it in a stew: 11 surprising ways to destroy an Apple Watch Thierry Bayle @RetailFashion Never believe that a few caring people can’t change the world. For, indeed, that’s all who ever have – Margaret Mead MEN MAGAZINE @MENMagazine @Woolmark Prize Nominees! @ASAUVAGE @agiandsam @Craig_Green_UK @KitNeale & Lee Roach! comehappy.leave.edgy @bricklanecoffee FUN THING TO WRITE ON A POST CARD: “Weather is great, having tons of fun! Are you still planning to murder your postman?

Siobhan Norton @siobhan_norton1 So Ed Miliband and Russell Brand are having an affair? FINALLY this election is getting exciting!

National Geographic @NatGeo Friday Fact: The air around a lightning strike is five times hotter than the sun Stephen Fry @stephenfry What do the young say now instead of “amazeballs”, “rad” and “fresh”, I wonder?

There must be new words by now —

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p GRAMMY AWARD WINNING JESS GLYNNE PERFORMED AT THE OPENING OF BENCH’S MUNICH SHOWROOM LAST MONTH. —

p LEEDS INDEPENDENT LAMBERT’S YARD INVITED GUESTS AND SHOPPERS DOWN TO ITS STORE IN APRIL TO CELEBRATE THE LAUNCH OF NEW JEWELLERY AND APPAREL LABEL SGR SKL. —

p BRITISH LIFESTYLE BRAND BARBOUR CELEBRATED ITS SCOTTISH ROOTS LAST MONTH BY SPONSORING SCOTTIE DOGS IN THE NEW YORK TARTAN DAY PARADE. —

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MAY 2015 | 47

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SMIFFY OF WALTHAMSTOW BOWS OUT Mike Smith, a menswear legend with a boxer’s nose, has thrown in the towel after 52 years in the game, but he’s not going quietly. We couldn’t let him leave a business he still loves with a passion without a few of his old tales now could we? His first job after leaving school in 1962 was for a men’s store in Walthamstow called Henry Taylors.

“It was a bit like Grace Brothers,” he recalls, the fictional department store from the old sitcom Are You Being Served. “In the gents’ toilet there was one cubicle for the buyers and one for the juniors. The buyers’ toilet had a lock on it, so you can imagine how proud I was when I reached buyer status and was presented with a key to the buyers’ loo!” Classic. He says the 60s were an amazing time, with the iconic Carnaby Street and shops such as John Stephens, Lord John, Take Six and Village Gate. “It was mohair suits, hipster trousers, Cuban heels and flower power – we all looked the business,” says Smith.

His first job “on the road” selling gear was for Ibex belts in 1972. His area to cover was London and the Home Counties. He’d never left Walthamstow, so it was all an adventure. He’d make around eight calls a day, five to regular customers, and three cold calls, one which took him by surprise. “In the range I had some wide belts with rocker-type buckles,” says Smith. “I was at Earls Court and noticed a window display of biker leather jackets, trousers and caps.

Ideal for this range I thought. It was dark when I entered the shop, and as I got accustomed to the darkness I realised I’d set foot in a gay sex shop. But the guys were very friendly, and I got an order in the bag!” He goes on with more gems, another of which was when he was in a shop in Holloway a few years later, selling Wexmann trousers. “An African guy came in looking very cold and wanting to buy an overcoat,” he says. “It was towards the end of winter and the last few coats had gone in the Sale. To my amazement, the owner of the shop put one of those old-fashioned plaid dressing gowns on the guy. ‘Suits you sir’, he said. The chap duly paid and went happily on his way.”

In his early time in the business, Smith was also an agent for Dickie’s. “It’s probably the only time I had a contemporary brand without knowing it,” he says. The longest time he spent with any company was with Statz, who introduced Bruno Saint Hilaire as a brand to the UK market.

pt MIKE SMITH IN HIS HEYDAY AND NOW (ABOVE)

“A man hates trying things on, so when he has a trouser with a subtle stretch waistband you’re onto a winner,” says Smith. “Also, a man always kids himself that he’s a size smaller than he is, so with a stretch trouser that doesn’t look naff you’ve got a customer for life.”

Winding up his time in the menswear business with another trouser brand, Brax, Smith did a lot of business with Selfridges during his time selling Statz and Bruno. Every two weeks he’d go in to do a stock check and have tea with the then buyer Joanne Quornley. He remembers on one occasion she introduced him to another buyer by saying, “This is Mike from the East End, but he’s alright.” Well we know you’re alright Smiffy, and we’ll listen to your stories of old all day long. Happy retirement, old son.

TRAINER HEAVEN Neal Heard has just released his latest edition – number four no less – of his trainer bible book, funnily enough called Trainers. I can’t believe he’s on number four – it seems like yesterday I was getting excited about the first one, which has been used many times for brand references. Each time there’s been another 30-odd new entries, but this one has another 50. Across all the editions he’s sold over 50,000 copies, and it’s even printed in Japanese and released as Sneakers in the US. It’s the first and original book on trainers and trainer culture and Neal does his homework, trust me on that. He lives and breathes it, and Carlton Books, which publish it, must be very happy it has a massive obsessive on its hands. Heard is now

p ADIDAS X UNDFTD X BAPE COLLABORATION

looking at doing a book on football shirts, too. I can’t wait for that one – surely he can’t miss out the 70s Admiral Coventry away kit – a chocolatecoloured nightmare. Anyhow, the book launch was put on at the Le Coq Sportif shop at Seven Dials, Covent Garden, and was attended by the great and the good of the menswear business, with former Big Audio Dynamite legend Don Letts and vinyl junkie Fraser Moss of YMC DJing. A bit like in one of the old Black Adder the Third episodes, when Rowan Atkinson’s character asks the Robbie Coltrane played Dr Samuel Johnson – writing the first ever dictionary – if he’d included made up words; someone asked Neal if a couple of ancient trainers had been put in the book. Neal looked a bit sheepish, so he may now be on edition 5.

SNEAKER FREAKS REJOICE More on the subject of trainers (we shouldn’t really call them sneakers in this country after all, but there’s something about the word that goes so well with “freaks” for a headline), and another collaboration is making the kids on the street quiver with excitement. And it’s not two brands, but three – Adidas x UNDFTD x BAPE. Two giants of the streetwear world with one of the biggest sports brands on the planet. It’s part of Adidas’ Consortium sub-line, in premium leather and yours for £95 – limited-edition of course. It’s the third collaboration between the three, but this one is with the trainer of the moment, the Adidas Superstar 80v – a retro classic. It will surely have every B-Boy from Brooklyn to Basildon body popping into a frenzy. They’re that mint.

CASUALWEAR

GARMENT STANDS

STEAMERS & IRONS

SUITS

WANTED

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MAY 2015 | 50

LAST ORDERS WITH...

CARL THOMPSON From designing wardrobe must-haves, to dishing out wardrobe advice on his popular eponymous blog, it’s safe to say Hawkins & Shepherd founder Carl Thompson knows a thing or two about sartorial dressing. Victoria Jackson catches up with Thompson to discover who he’d like to see wearing his inaugural label and what it takes to run a successful blog.

— D/O/B: 02/06/1980 Born: Whitechapel, East London Lives now: Clapham, South West London Twitter: @PinCollarShirts Website: www.hawkinsandshepherd.com

When did you launch Hawkins & Shepherd?

As with all products, the Hawkins & Shepherd brand began its life as an idea – to design and build a classic yet contemporary, distinctive luxury shirt. The inspiration and the shirt that followed was an amalgamation of the classic glamour of the 20s merged with a more contemporary feel – a celebration of the past, rooted in the present, with an eye to the future. On 6 August 2013, Hawkins & Shepherd was born and its flagship namesake product – our Pin Collar Shirt – was revealed to the world.

What would you say is your USP? In my view the high street has focused on quantity at the expense of quality for too long. In some ways, due to escalating rents for retailers, this is understandable. However, this has left the door open for smaller, niche brands like ours to enter the market. We’ve pitched ourselves as affordable luxury. Our shirts are all handmade and compare well with designer brands with regard to fabric, tailoring and attention to detail at less than half the cost. For us that means a smaller profit margin, but that’s literally the price we’re willing to pay to be a leader in our particular market niche.

How many stockists do you have in the UK? Who is on your retailer hit-list?

Currently we are stocked in only five independent menswear stores throughout the UK. However, this doesn’t concern me as it is more about picking the correct stockists rather than flooding the market. We like to work with stockists that love our shirts as much as we do because they will be more passionate about what they are selling.

It’s about collaboration and helping each other’s business grow, which is why I would always visit

the stores where we are stocked and build a long-lasting relationship. We have a plan to be stocked by the top 20 menswear independents in the country. From there we will speak to the big department stores with the goal of being stocked and offer exclusivity to one of them.

Who would you like to see wearing the brand?

We have had a number of celebrities wearing our shirts already – among those are David Gandy and Calum Best. Two cool guys who have impeccable style are David Beckham and Jamie Dornan, so I would love to have them wearing our Hawkins & Shepherd shirts.

You run a menswear blog, what would you say are the three main elements of a successful blog?

Collaborations with brands and other bloggers, quality content – written, pictorial and in video – across all social-media platforms, and find your niche demographic for your readers.

Do you use the power of bloggers to showcase Hawkins & Shepherd?

Blogging is a great way to promote myself as a personal brand as well as Hawkins & Shepherd.

Since starting the company I’ve had a lot of people come to me for advice on styling, so blogging has given me the platform to push that advice out to readers.

In terms of your personal style, which labels would we find hanging in your wardrobe?

My favourite brand right now is Richard James – it had some incredible knits for winter and now we are in the warmer months I’m excited to see what the label’s collection will look like. For shoes, either Grenson or Oliver Sweeney because I love

brogues. On the high street I enjoy shopping in Reiss and my go-to online marketplace for everyday attire are the likes of Asos and Topman.

What do you draw your inspiration from in terms of dressing? Any person or era in particular?

Not really. I don’t tend to do anything too crazy and I’m not a vintage lover. I just dress for the occasion. I would say that I’m a very practical dresser, although I do enjoy good tailoring, dressing dapper, classic yet with touches of colour.

What’s next for Hawkins & Shepherd?

So many things. The most important being not to compromise on the quality of our shirts, so we’ll spend time making sure our supply chain is always striving for better. As mentioned we would like to be stocked in more menswear independents.

Our online store range needs to increase, so we’ll be looking to bring shoes, socks, tailored trousers, bags and a larger range of accessories to our portfolio.

— QUICK-FIRE ROUND Favourite film: A Beautiful Mind Biggest vice: Chocolate and burgers, not together Three things you can’t live without: Friends/family, my phone and a passport Early bird or night owl: Early bird weekdays, night owl weekends

THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS I N T E R N AT I O N A L F A S H I O N T R A D E S H O W | 7 – 9 J U LY 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com

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