MWB MAGAZINE JUNE ISSUE 222

ISSUE 222 | JUNE 2015 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

FIRST DATE THE ESSENTIAL RUNDOWN OF THE KEY INTERNATIONAL AND DOMESTIC SHOWS TO ATTEND THIS SEASON — HIDE AND SEEK THE MUST-SEE BRANDS TO CATCH AT CONTEMPORARY TRADE SHOW SEEK — THE DAPPER STAG INDEPENDENT RETAILER GAVIN CROSSLAND ON 40 YEARS IN TRADE

AUTUMN / WINTER 2015-16

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JUNE 2015 | CONTENTS | 07

F E A T U R E S 14

Online Insider Advice, news and issues online

16

Retail Insider The latest in-store news

23

Product news Rounding up the key stories this month

28

In-season stock Driving force

30

In-season stock Cartoon network

32

Pitti Uomo Six of the key labels to catch at this month’s exhibition

35

Panorama Q&A with CEO Joerg Wichmann

36

Seek What’s in store for the Berlin show

40

Exhibition calendar Dates, locations and brands to catch this season

43

The Best of Britannia Highlighting some of stand-out labels from the event

R E G U L A R S 9 10 20

Comment News Interview Gavin Crossland

44 47 50

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Ross Keir Simmons

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E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com

JUNE 2015 | 09

COMMENT

— D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — S U B

E D I T O R

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S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

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Regardless of your opinion on Mary Portas, there’s no denying her passion for wanting to get the British high street back to its fighting best; passion she had in abundance as she spoke with gusto on stage in her role as keynote speaker at last month’s Bira High Street Conference.

— The industry expert – who has previously petitioned the government to take action to support the nation’s small businesses – used the platform to urge retailers to stay smart in their fight for their local high street.

Portas discussed the shift in shopping habits following the recession and the surge of internet shopping but, as she rightly noted, this has only made people realise the importance of the high street. “It’s not about business, it’s about communities; it’s passing someone you know on the street and interacting with those around you,” she said.

We can’t, however, have a nostalgic view of the high street – we need to discover what’s relevant now and, as Portas went on to add, “as a country of creatives, we need to craft a new high street that works.”

Portas detailed the success stories of the nation’s 450 town teams, which have trialled different approaches to driving footfall back to the high street.

Braintree in Essex, for example, welcomed 50,000 new cars into the town when it trialled free town-centre parking, while the South Yorkshire town of Rotherham saw an organically crafted high street emerge from its council’s policy of buying empty units and renting them out to businesses, for which there was a perceived need in the centre.

You and I both know that in order to get the footfall a business needs to survive, your store not only needs to be a destination, but so do your neighbouring units. Adopting the approach of large-scale developers, which secure anchor stores such as M&S and Debenhams before building shopping malls across the country, might be the way forward, approaching the issue of the high street in a similar way to create a destination, with something more creative than a shop. “Something like a crèche, for example,” said Portas.

When asked if she was optimistic about the future of the British high street, Portas didn’t hesitate with her answer. “Yes I am,” she said. “I have faith in people, but we need to educate councils across the country about regeneration because the high street won’t look after itself like it used to. There are so many positive changes that can be made. It will take some work but, if the likes of Rotherham and Baintree can do it, why can’t your town?”

As always, if you have any comments on this month’s issue get in touch via email, or contact the MWB team on Twitter at @mwbmagazine.

Victoria Jackson Editor

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JUNE 2015 | NEWS | 10

N E W S

JACKET REQUIRED STRENGTHENS INTERNATIONAL LINE-UP

BUYERS COMMIT BUDGET TO FORWARD ORDERING Trade shows are cited as being more important than ever, in a straw poll carried out by MWB. Buyers across the country are committing their seasonal budget to forward order as the industry prepares for its first shows of the s/s 16. Despite the increased popularity of mid-season topping up, the business model of forward-ordering at trade shows is still the favoured approach for indies, who cite convenience, trendspotting and focused buying as the key advantages of trade shows.

“Moda Gent is our dedicated buying trip,” says Phil Atkinson, director at menswear independent Eric Spencer in Ilkley, West Yorkshire. “Being able to see more brands under one roof allows us to be completely focused on buying, and there is also the chance to spot trends and fashions more easily, as well as doing business with some companies that we may otherwise never have seen.”

Fellow independent retailer Brian Linnett, owner of My Guy Clothing in Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire, agrees that viewing collections in a trade show environment has a definite advantage over individual appointments with key labels. “It’s an opportunity for us to see brands that don’t always have local representation,” says Linnett. “It’s especially useful having footwear companies showcased alongside clothing, as separate trips out of the shop are not always possible.”

Retailers across the country also revealed that the opportunity to meet other industry professionals face-to-face could not be underestimated, particularly at a time when mid-season ordering is often completed via a website.

“Trade shows are a good chance to meet up with other people in the industry who may have moved onto another brand,” says Phil Darlaston, proprietor of Philip James in Hinckley, Leicestershire. “I also enjoy meeting up with fellow retailers to exchange ideas. We do around 40 per cent of our buying at Moda Gent, because it offers us that flexibility to compare collections at the start of the season within a good, accessible location which has strong transport links.”

For those retailers who have seen the industry evolve over the years meanwhile, the trade show prevails as the essential model of seasonal buying.

“Trade shows are essential working days and a discipline to attend,” says industry veteran Robert Nash, director at Geo Heaphy & Sons in Redditch, Worcestershire.

“I was taken to my first trade show by my father when I was 12 years old and, 60 years on, I still feel that it is essential to see menswear ranges – and not just those from our regular suppliers – to get a feel for the direction of the new season.”

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Premium menswear show Jacket Required will play host to an increasingly global portfolio of brands at its ninth edition next month.

The invitation-only event, which takes place at The Old Truman Brewery on 29-30 July, will see debuts from a number of international names, including Danish technical sportswear label HALO; Swedish footwear brand Ten Points; fellow Swedish glasses label Monokel Eyewear; Italian knitwear brand GRP; French casualwear brand Homecore; American skincare and grooming brand Baxter of California; and Japanese clothing and accessories label Narifuri.

Visitor registration for the show – which will welcome buyers through a new Hanbury Street entrance this season – is now open online at www.jacket-required.com.

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LEICESTERSHIRE TEXTILE FIRMS TARGET CLOTHING RETAILERS Leicestershire Textiles Hub recently hosted a free masterclass entitled Retailer Engagement to help equip local firms with tactics and guidance on how to secure work with household names.

The event was part of the Leicester & Leicestershire Enterprise Partnership (LLEP) Celebrating Business event, and concluded with a fashion show promoting products made by the region’s firms.

Over 30 Leicestershire textile businesses took part in the seminar, which is part of a regular series of bespoke workshops for the region’s textile industry, and looked at how to become more attractive to major clothing retailers wanting to source from local suppliers. The interactive seminar was attended by a range of city and county firms including Pretty Legs Hosiery, Jack Masters, Djinn, Fashion Manufacturer Ltd, Fashion UK, Basic Premier, Who’s Who and Britannia Garment Packaging.

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JUNE 2015 | NEWS | 11

IN BRIEF

GAASTRA ARRIVES AT MODA GENT

HARVEY NICHOLS LAUNCHES LOYALTY APP

This season sees contemporary Dutch label Gaastra launch into the UK at Moda Gent, bringing with it a directional range of nautical-inspired menswear.

Established in 1897 as a sailing brand, Gaastra has evolved into a fashion label over a century of progression, culminating in a s/s 16 collection that its founders feel is the perfect combination of fashion and function.

“Gaastra is at the top of its game at the moment,” says Jason Lynch, exclusive UK agent for the brand. “The collection is available in every iconic department store across Europe but, up until now, it hasn’t had any sort of presence in the UK.” Having selected s/s 16 as its launch season for Britain, Gaastra is targeting department stores as well as premium UK independents with its distinctive range of lifestyle clothing for men. The brand will launch at Moda Gent this season.

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Prestigious department store Harvey Nichols has launched a loyalty app designed to reward customers and encourage further sales. The app – which launched last month – replaces the traditional model of a loyalty card, which the store argues is outdated and often seen as a nuisance by customers.

“Our research told us that plastic loyalty cards jammed into a bursting wallet are no longer what customers want,” says Scott Ewings, head of London studio at digital product designer Ustwo, which created the app. “They don’t reflect the premium nature of a brand like Harvey Nichols, but we knew we could communicate this effectively with a mobile app.

Launching the app will allow us to gather feedback and use these insights to rapidly evolve the product.”

The scheme will reward customers with a point for every £1 spent in-store or online, and allows participants to redeem their points from day one.

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H&M ANNOUNCES BALMAIN COLLABORATION

THE HUB RELOCATES TO SHANGHAI

Swedish young fashion chain H&M has announced its latest designer collaboration is with Parisian fashion house Balmain. The collection will go on sale on 5 November and will be available in 250 stores worldwide and online, featuring clothing and accessories for men and women.

Founded in 1945, Balmain has grown into a global pop-culture phenomenon under the creative directorship of Olivier Rousteing, and is worn by celebrities such as Kendall Jenner (right) and Jourdan Dunn (left).

“We are excited to have Balmain as our guest designer at H&M,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor at H&M. “With its mix of couture spirit and streetwear attitude, Balmain owns a unique style, at once opulent and direct, sensual and energetic. It is also closely linked to the show business and music worlds, which adds another element of surprise.”

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Fashion trade show The HUB will relocate to Shanghai this season in a move that will see the show position itself alongside Shanghai Fashion Week.

The HUB – which has hosted four successful events in Hong Kong since its launch in August 2013 – will make its debut in mainland China with a carefully curated showcase of around 40 international brands.

“We knew that at some point we would take The HUB to mainland China, and now is the right time,” says co-founder Richard Hobbs. “There are still hurdles when it comes to doing business in China, but we are here to help and advise and, as of this month, China will be reducing import tariffs on a number of clothing and footwear categories which will only make it easier for brands to import and to find buyers and partners.”

The HUB will take place at Central Studios in Xintiandi on 13-15 October. Brands confirmed include Boy London, Rack & Ruin and Dienastie.

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POPULARITY OF POP-UP SHOPS SOARS Research indicates the pop-up is the business model of choice for new startups. Around a third of new businesses plan to trial a pop-up model by way of testing the retail waters, according to new research. The study – carried out by telecoms company EE – revealed that 29 per cent of entrepreneurs looking to start a business within the next two years had already decided to test the reaction to their product offer via a temporary outlet. Defined as anything from a market stall to a unit within a dedicated platform for temporary retail outlets, the popup allows businesses to gauge reaction to their product without the commitment of hefty start-up fees or lengthy rental contracts. If the data is representative of UK industry, the retail sector will see 3.4 million pop-ups launched by 2017.

— FOOTFALL RISES OVER BANK HOLIDAY WEEKEND High streets across the country saw a 4.4 per cent rise in footfall over the Bank Holiday weekend, helped by warm weather and a variety of family events and regional promotions. The data – released by industry analyst Springboard – indicates that high streets are fighting back against out-of-town shopping centres, luring customers back into town centres with themed events and family fun days. “High streets have become aware of losing customers to out-of-town shops and the internet,” says Diane Wehrle, insights director at Springboard. “But they have made more of an effort to hold events, speciality markets and parades to draw in the crowds.” Coastal and historic towns were the biggest winners over the weekend, seeing a 14 per cent year-on-year boost on Saturday alone. Shopping centres, however, saw a 3.1 per cent decline across the weekend.

— 2015 CFDA WINNERS ANNOUNCED The annual Council of Fashion Designers of America awards took place earlier this month (1 June), with Tom Ford winning the Menswear accolade and The Row taking home the award for Womenswear Designer of the Year. Tabitha Simmons was awarded Accessories Designer of the year, while the 2015 Style Icon went to musician Pharrell Williams. The annual event recognises the outstanding contributions made to American fashion by individuals from all areas of the industry and related arts, with awards being given for design excellence in womenswear, menswear and accessories, as well as extraordinary accomplishments in journalism, creative vision and lifetime achievement. Nominations for each award category are submitted by the CFDA Fashion Awards Guild, an invitation only network comprised of top fashion retailers, journalists, stylists, influencers and designers of the CFDA. The nominees, as well as recipients of the honorary awards, are ratified by the CFDA board of directors.

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JUNE 2015 | NEWS | 12

IN BRIEF

EDWARDS OF MANCHESTER CLOSES DOORS

PORTAS ADDRESSES INDUSTRY AT BIRA CONFERENCE

Iconic shoe store Edwards of Manchester remains closed after failing to open last month. Empty shelves and units within the store indicate that it has ceased trading, although there has been no announcement via the retailer’s social media to suggest that a closure was imminent.

The unit, which is situated within Manchester’s Barton Arcade, fronts onto Deansgate and is the oldest independent shoe shop outside of London. Established in 1830, the store is renowned for its high-quality men’s footwear – from labels including Cheaney, Crockett & Jones and Tricker’s – but also has an established women’s offer including brands such as Caprice and Van Dal. Attempts to contact owner Steve Fitzsimmons – who has been the proprietor of the store since 2008 – were unsuccessful, although the retailer’s website remains live and appears to still be operating on a transactional level.

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Retail guru Mary Portas took to the floor at this year’s British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) conference, urging retailers to stay smart in their fight for their local high street. The industry expert was the keynote speaker at the annual event, which took place in Warwick last month.

“We have seen a shift in shopping habits because of the recession and the surge in Internet shopping,” said Portas, who was being interviewed by Alexis Conran – actor, stage magician and former star of BBC3 reality show The Real Hustle. “But that has made people realise the importance of the high street because it’s not about business, it’s about communities; it’s passing someone you know on the street and interacting with those around you. We can’t, however, have a nostalgic view of the high street; we need to discover what is relevant now and, as a country of creatives, we need to craft a new high street that works.”

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FARFETCH BUYS LONDON INDIE BROWNS

NEW LOOK SOLD FOR £780M

E-commerce platform Farfetch has acquired iconic London boutique Browns for an undisclosed sum as part of its omni-channel strategy.

The acquisition is part of a long-term plan to develop a global technology platform and build on Brown’s 45-year heritage as one of London’s most high-profile luxury indies, with the aim to evolve the Browns brand both offline and online through a mix of technology and in-store experience.

Former Net-a-porter fashion director Holli Rogers will join the business as CEO of Browns, while Joan Burstein, who founded Browns with her husband Sydney in 1970, will become honorary chairman, joined by her son and daughter, Simon and Caroline Burstein, who remain on the board of directors in an advisory position.

The Browns brand and business will run independently to the Farfetch operation.

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South African private equity group Brait, owned by entrepreneur Christo Wiese, has bought 90 per cent of the UK high street chain in a £780m deal, which sets the enterprise value of New Look at £1.9bn. The Singh family around New Look founder Tom Singh will reacquire the remaining 10 per cent.

New Look, which operates more than 800 stores in 21 countries, has net financial debt of £1bn, with Brait set to review financing alternatives in order to optimise the capital structure.

In a statement, Brait revealed its interest in New Look is based on factors such as the company’s double-digit EBITDA growth in recent years, its established footprint in the higher growth value segment, strong growth prospects in France, Germany, Poland and China, and a highly developed multi-channel offering via traditional stores and a fast-growing e-commerce platform.

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OI POLLOI LAUNCHES EXCLUSIVE UPDATE OF K SWISS SHOE K Swiss, the American heritage tennis brand, has partnered with iconic Manchester menswear independent Oi Polloi to give their spin on the iconic Irvine T. Five years after it first shot to fame, the shoe will be back with a reintroduction into the mainline collection. For the exclusive design, the Irvine T has been stripped back to basics, featuring a “tennis whites” canvas upper with subtle five stripe stitched branding, a white sole and gum toe-box. The Irvine T has been finished with a playful twist with the heal panel available in blue or red, creating a sole that is inspired by the history of court performance.

— AWARDS VICTORY FOR KENDAL INDIE Kendal independent Armstrong Ward was among the winners of the national Greats Retailer Awards 2015, which took place on 7 May at London’s Savoy Hotel. Now in its 13th year, the Awards recognise and celebrate not only the top independent and multiple gift retailers regionally and nationally, but also “one-off” niche retailers. Competing in the Best Lifestyle, Homeware and Gifts category, Armstrong Ward was up against leading retailers such Homer in Edinburgh and Aberfeldy; Joy; Oliver Bonas; Orange Tree in Topsham; and Sparks Yard in Arundel. “We are surprised and of course delighted to have won at this year’s Greats Retailer Awards, and when they called our name out at the ceremony, it took a couple of moments to realise it was us,” says Armstrong Ward owner Jacqueline Ward. “I think the most important factor for us is to be recognised for all the hard work that goes into the Armstrong Ward brand on a daily basis. “It’s most definitely a team effort, and a result of the energy and passion that each employee contributes in order to achieve what Armstrong Ward is all about.” Jacqueline and Andrew Ward opened Armstrong Ward in Kendal’s Wainwrights Yard 10 years ago, with a vision to sell products and British brands under-represented locally.

Today, the retailer offers a collection of design-led gifts for men, women and children, homeware and furniture. In 2011, the Armstrong Ward was extended to include a café and, in October 2014, it won Retailer of the Year at the CN Group Business Awards.

— BIRA LAUNCHES INDUSTRY GOLF DAY The British Independent Retailers’ Association (Bira) will host its firstever charity golf day next month in aid of industry charity the Retail Trust.

Taking place at Lincolnshire’s Belton Woods Hotel, the event will see divisional associates with Bira go head-to-head on the 18-hole approved course, which will be followed by a three-course dinner.

“Belton Woods Hotel is the perfect setting for this relaxed and friendly event,” says BIRA events manager, Paulina Swiech. “The course is littered with natural hazards; a great challenge for both high and low handicappers. We are really excited to get suppliers and retailers together to network and have fun at our first ever golf day.” More information can be found at www.bira.co.uk/golfday.

Heart of Fashion

Woman Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories Footwear Gent

9-11 August 2015 NEC Birmingham Apply to exhibit, or register for tickets at moda-uk.co.uk

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JUNE 2015 | ADVICE | 14

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: DESIGNING FOR DEMOGRAPHICS

STEVE RIVERS is the CEO of Intelligent Reach, expert in product-level marketing, data quality & performance – with clients including House of Fraser, Argos and Superdry

The rise of mobile technology means consumers can make purchases online at any time, from any location. The move away from high-street shopping and towards online spending means that traditional barriers to commerce are being broken down, and retailers can access customers all over the world by using multi-channel methods.

This flexibility has meant the number and size of online marketplaces has risen rapidly. Marketplaces are an inexpensive, low-risk and easy way for retailers of any size to set up shop and sell online, or to support an existing online strategy. On such sites, product and inventory information is provided by the third-party sellers or retailers, and transactions are processed by the marketplace operator.

Online marketplaces such as Amazon, eBay, Etsy and Notonthehightstreet.com offer unrivalled opportunities for existing retailers who can now sell their products in previously untapped territories to new customers, as well as new, independent retailers who have an avenue to sell their goods – all without the risks and expenses involved with “setting up shop” in physical form.

To maximise this opportunity, retailers need to consider the most effective ways to engage with consumers. Catering for a target demographic is crucial to successfully breaking into new territories, as retailers must compete with local, established retailers in addition to millions of others from around the world. In order to differentiate themselves, new entrants to a specific retail market or marketplace must have a comprehensive understanding of what will make their brand stand out and attract shoppers to that brand.

However, retailers will need to carefully consider customer demographics in order to determine how to target customers in the most effective way. For example, search terms and keywords used to describe products must be angled towards the correct age and gender, so as not to risk products getting lost. It is also essential that the back-office processes – such as the supply chain, deliveries and returns – are implemented and managed successfully.

Online marketplaces can also be a good option for retailers looking to expand globally. However, it is vital that retailers understand their target market, customers and the various trends and changes on all the marketplaces they are trading in. By constantly monitoring and optimising their products across these multiple sites at an individual product level, retailers will be able to attract, win and retain customers much more effectively.

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WEB WATCH

WWW.MRPORTER.COM/SPORT Premium e-tailer Mr Porter continues to strengthen its position within the menswear retail landscape with the launch of Mr Porter Sport. Playing host to luxury labels including Sperry, Peter Millar, Newton, Castelli and RLX Ralph Lauren, the site is split into nine dedicated categories from running through golf to sailing.

To celebrate the launch, Mr Porter has released a special edition of its e-zone The Journal, named A Sporting Man, featuring Chelsea Football Club manager José Mourinho.

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NEWS

INTERNATIONAL EXPANSION KEY TO E-COMMERCE GROWTH More UK e-tailers than ever before are considering international expansion as a key factor in their growth strategies, according to a report by e-commerce and digital marketing agency Space 48.

The report predicts that while a lack of adequate online presence has led to brands traditionally struggling with international expansion, the spike in e-commerce websites now launching globally will provide UK businesses with never seen before opportunities.

“Expanding into different countries is a great way to grow a business, and can reap incredible financial rewards if executed correctly,” says Jon Woodall, managing director, Space 48. “Exporting is a key factor the UK’s economic success and, with all the emphasis UKTI, the government and other leading bodies are putting on the issue currently, it’s something we’re only set to see become more prominent.

“However, launching an international website comes with its obstacles and a ‘one size fits all’ strategy when looking to enter multiple overseas markets simply isn’t feasible,” he continues.

“Different regulations, customs, payment gateways and language barriers are just some of the complications that may have prevented companies from taking the leap in the past.”

— KERING SUES INTERNET GIANT ALIBABA Luxury conglomerate Kering, parent company to labels such as Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Saint Laurent, has launched a lawsuit against Chinese internet giant Alibaba in a fight against counterfeiting and those who profit from it.

Kering accuses the e-commerce group of encouraging the sale of counterfeit goods on its platform for its own profit, claiming that Alibaba is complicit in the sale of false handbags, watches and other products. The lawsuit also claims that Alibaba had conspired to manufacture, promote and traffic in false goods bearing the brand trademarks without Kering’s permission.

The lawsuit is seeking a court order that would block Alibaba from offering or helping facilitate the sale of false products.

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JUNE 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 16

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT ASHLEY PANKHURST is the general manager of Allen’s of Olney Ltd, and also a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

HATS OFF TO NEW CHRISTYS STORE OPENING Established British hat-maker Christys hats has launched its second UK store, this time opening in London’s Seven Dials.

Located at 9 Shorts Gardens, the 505 sq ft shop is adjacent to fellow British label Fred Perry.

Manufacturing brands since 1773, the brand has worked with the likes of the Royal Family, the military and British designers such as Margaret Howell, Paul Smith and Ben Sherman.

“The vibrancy and character of Seven Dials attracted us instantly,” says Steve Clark, managing director at Christys hats. “The brand mix in the area reflects Great British style, mixing cutting edge and classic design with authentic craftsmanship, in much the same way as Christys hats has for over 242 years. “We are excited to be joining these best in class brands, and feel our rich heritage can only add to the unique Seven Dials atmosphere. The store is trading well and we are very pleased to introduce our brand to new customers.”

Seven Dials is currently home to 120 shops, including international flagships and concept stores.

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IN BRIEF ROBINSONS OF BAWTRY EXPERIENCES SECOND ROBBERY Premium independent retailer Robinsons of Bawtry in South Yorkshire has experienced its second robbery in two years. Seven individuals used a car to force the security gate from the entrance way, before entering the front door and stealing £15,000 worth of stock, including designer clothing from Ralph Lauren, Armani and Hugo Boss. In June 2013, the store also saw £10,000 worth of goods stolen.

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MR PORTER TEAMS UP WITH COS Online menswear retailer Mr Porter has teamed up with contemporary fashion retailer Cos on a capsule menswear range, released last month. The Modern Traveller collection comprises 23 pieces, including outerwear, tailoring, accessories, footwear and shirts in seasonal hues of grey, deep navy and burgundy that have been created with the “frequent diverse traveller” in mind. The line is available from Mrporter.com, as well as in 12 Cos stores worldwide, including Regent Street, Covent Garden and Westfield London.

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Earlier this month I attended the Bira conference. As a company, we get a great deal of support from Bira, including the opportunity for me to attend the Masters course at the Oxford Summer School last year on a scholarship from Retail Trust, so I felt it important to support our trade association in return. I try to never miss an opportunity to network with fellow retailers.

It was also a good opportunity to hear from great speakers. Like many others, I took screeds of notes from one of the speakers who had been invited to the conference.

Andrew McMillan, formerly of the John Lewis Partnership, was truly inspiring in his attitude, and made some very simple and profound points about brand image, identity and perception with your customers. It made me reconsider how we are perceived at Allens and how to promote the values we stand for.

Obviously there are other menswear retailers that carry the same brands as us, so we need to pay attention to developing those reasons why customers should shop with us.

We’ve been doing some good business with a number of brands this season, Santinelli striped blazers have sold well early in the season. Sunwill trousers are another area where colour and fit have worked for us. The key principles have been displaying something different, eye-catching and inspiring; giving customers a reason to buy. Confidence has certainly improved since the General Election.

Remarkably, we have had customers shopping with us recently who bring an outfit to the cash desk without asking the price. The sale may exceed several hundred pounds, but there is no questioning its value or the price. Trusting us as a retailer and valuing our service clearly stand for something.

Hopefully this trend will continue. As an independent retailer, our USPs are quality merchandise and excellent customer service, so we rely on our customers accepting that the items are worth the ticket price. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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JUNE 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 17

SHOPPED: KEITH MCNICOL What is the new concept store you opened recently?

It’s a hybrid shop called HBD Sportswear that we opened in March.

It’s our old womenswear store. The womenswear wasn’t working, so I’ve gone for something completely different. The business was going increasingly towards sportswear, as is the industry as a whole – at all levels. The product we are carrying in there, goes right up to the top end, such as Versace and Moschino mainlines, MCM and Y-3. We have also put in there the likes of Boss Green and EA7, so it’s a very broad spectrum of product. High-end sportswear is where it’s at. Everyone knows the likes of JD Sports, Foot Asylum and so on, and it was so important KEITH MCNICOL not to take that route.

MANAGING — DIRECTOR, RICHMOND CLASSICS, What has the reaction been like, and who is it appealing to?

BOURNEMOUTH It’s been very well received, and it’s appealing to the customer who wants to wear tracksuits and sweatshirts, but at all different levels. It’s definitely for a customer who’s got the money. It’s also a different customer to Richmond Classics, which has most of the Nike and Adidas Originals in the Fashion Pharmacy area. The HBD store is very clean and contemporary looking. It’s all white, with glass shelves and with 3M logos on the floor. There are also big Rolex clocks on the wall – with the different Paris, New York and Tokyo time-frames on them. When I do try new concepts I like to have a theme. You’ve got to be different.

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IN FOCUS: D.COPPERFIELD 3-5 CHEQUER STREET, ST ALBANS, HERTFORDSHIRE AL1 3YJ

ESTABLISHED: 1973 BRANDS: STONE ISLAND, C.P. COMPANY, PAUL SMITH JEANS, ORLEBAR BROWN, CLARKS ORIGINALS, NUDIE JEANS, RALPH LAUREN, EDWIN, EVISU, J LINDEBERG, YMC, HACKETT, SANDQVIST, FRED PERRY, RAINS

PALACE OPENS FIRST BRICKS-AND-MORTAR STORE Renowned London skate brand Palace has opened its doors at 26 Brewer Street, Soho.

The 1,836 sq ft store will stock the full production line of Palace clothing and accessories as well as exclusive releases.

Brewer Street, along with Berwick Street and Broadwick Street, are curated to include a blend of lifestyle concepts, record stores, fabric shops, cafés, restaurants and hand-picked fashion brands.

“We are delighted Palace has joined Brewer Street,” says Samantha Bain-Mollison, head of retail strategy and leasing at Shaftesbury Plc. “Palace will join a collection of new and exciting brands and restaurant openings on one of Soho’s most diverse and interesting streets, ahead of London Fashion Week this September.”

The Palace letting follows the recent opening of café and bike shop Soho Bikes and Parisian retailer A.P.C. —

IN BRIEF

Established in St Albans 1973, D.Copperfield has been on the high street in several shop spaces ever since. The original store was opened by Michael Franklin, who ran the shop for 40 years thereafter. Harry Block started working for Michael as a junior in 2004, and worked his way up through management and buying to a position that Franklin was confident enough to offer him the opportunity of a manager buyout when he decided to retire early 2013, beginning a new chapter for D.Copperfield.

There have been many changes since the takeover, with new brands and forward-thinking staff added, as well as a large investment for a full store refurbishment. There’s a new “sartorial room” with the feel of a gentleman’s club, with dark parquet flooring and oxblood Chesterfield armchairs.

This s/s signals the first step from D.Copperfield to becoming a more directional, forward-thinking menswear store. Having had such a presence on the St Albans high street for over four decades, the time was right to move forward and introduce new brands. This autumn will see the likes of Ten C, Barena, 7 For All Mankind and Fracap hit the shelves. The Wall of Denim is another new feature, welcoming back an old brand favourite in Evisu.

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LONDON NAMED MOST INTERNATIONAL SHOPPING DESTINATION London has retained its position as the world’s most international shopping destination, with 57.9 per cent of international retailers present in the UK capital. Research from global property advisor CBRE states that last year 12 new international retailers opened in the city including US fashion chain American Eagle and Canadian sportswear brand Lululemon Athletics, helping to keep London on top.

According to CBRE’s findings, almost 60 per cent of high-profile international labels are present in London, followed by Dubai, which has 55.7 per cent of international retailers present, while Shanghai came in third place with 53.4 per cent.

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JUNE 2015 | MODA | PROMOTION | 18

EVERY ELEMENT COVERED Summer is redefined this season as every element of menswear comes together at Moda.

Returning to Birmingham’s NEC on 9-11 August, the event presents collections across the spectrum of apparel from directional daywear to essential footwear, defining the style of s/s 16 and beyond.

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MODA GENT

SELECT

NEW FACES

Bringing together an eclectic line-up of the industry’s must-have brands, Moda Gent is the essential trade platform for international and home-grown labels. As the host of the sector’s latest collections from brands including Timberland, Moda Gent shapes the season with exclusive launches that define the style of s/s 16 and beyond.

Moda Gent will also host the 150th anniversary of retuning label Magee, which will launch a capsule collection for s/s 16 in celebration of heritage that stretches back over one and a half centuries for the Irish label. For Germany’s leading labels, meanwhile, Moda is once again the launchpad into the UK, with Seidensticker, Camel Active (pictured), Meyer and Olymp presenting an essential edit of men’s daywear from Europe’s most established brands.

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Presenting a curated edit of contemporary and directional men’s fashion, Select sits between Moda Gent and Moda Footwear, seamlessly combining the trade’s key sectors. Specialising in modern heritage brands, Select has launched seasonal collections for Wrangler, Duck and Cover, 1 Like No Other, J Shoes, Tyler & Tyler and Knightsbridge (pictured), and returns this season with an enhanced selection of brands for the contemporary sector.

Benefitting from its own distinct design and vibe, Select elevates the sector’s most directional labels from a dedicated platform within a trade environment.

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Although renowned as the trade platform for the industry’s most established names in menswear, Moda Gent is also the launchpad of choice for new arrivals season after season. This spring sees the event diversify its offer once again with a host of new names, adding new dimensions to an already vibrant portfolio of brands.

Gaastra will launch exclusively into the UK at Moda Gent this season, bringing with it a fresh and contemporary collection of nautical-inspired menswear. The Dutch label combines over 100 years of heritage with cutting edge design and style, the result of which is established within iconic department stores all over Europe. Finally adding the UK to its extensive global reach, Gaastra arrives on British shores via Moda Gent, redefining the essence of sailing culture and its associated style.

Fellow new arrival Cadogan also makes its Moda debut this season. From cuff links to socks, the British brand targets the gift sector as well as its core menswear demographic.

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R E G I S T E R F O R Y O U R F R E E T I C K E T AT

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BEST OF BRITISH

FOOTWEAR

BEYOND THE AISLES

Supporting all that is great about Britain and its talent and design, Moda Gent is once again proud to welcome the very best in Britain’s exports. Playing host to quintessential duffle coat brand Gloverall (pictured), prestigious Scottish knitwear manufacturer Peter Scott, and Yorkshire shirt label Double Two, Moda Gent is the first port of call for buyers looking to buy British from the very best of the sector’s home-grown labels.

Also flying the British flag, Bladen unveils its latest offer of fine English tailoring, all of which has the brand’s 100-year heritage running through its every fibre. Yorkshire tailoring label Brook Taverner also makes a welcome return to the show with its new collection of garments produced from British textiles, while British brand Hunt & Holditch offers the perfect complement of accessories within its latest range.

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This season sees the industry’s national footwear show welcome a host of new names, including Sebago (pictured), deck shoe brand Orca Bay and Hush Puppies, which makes a welcome return to Moda Footwear this spring.

Other returning favourites, meanwhile, include Superga, Dr Marten’s, Base London, Bugatti and Chatham, which will launch its firstever Made in Britain collection at the event. The smarter end of the spectrum is also well-covered, with labels such as Barker and Paolo Vandini presenting a polished selection of shoes for modern gentlemen.

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As the national industry hub, Moda Gent is a meeting place for professionals from all aspects of the sector as well as the key event for seasonal buying. This season sees the show build upon its social and networking elements with events dedicated to those in the menswear trade, taking place amid the wider setting of the UK’s biggest national trade show.

Located in the centre of Hall 6, the Gent Café will once again play host to live jazz music within the relaxed setting of a break-out plaza.

Adding a chilled-out ambience to the business of buying, the Gent Café will host live performances during its happy hour events.

The Gent Café will also host the Breakfast Club following its successful debut last season.

Sponsored by iconic tailoring label Skopes, the Breakfast Club rewards dedicated menswear buyers arriving at Hall 6 with a free coffee and croissant, helping to get a day of buying off to the perfect start.

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MODA-UK.CO.UK

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JUNE 2015 | INTERVIEW | 20

INTERVIEW

GAVIN CROSSLAND UK menswear institution Woodhouse celebrates its 40th anniversary this year. It may have undergone various reincarnations over the years but, as Tom Bottomley discovers from menswear buyer Gavin Crossland, the aim is to become a force to be reckoned with once again.

— Tom Bottomley: How would you best describe Woodhouse, and what are your earliest memories of it?

Gavin Crossland: Woodhouse was one of the most sought-after retailers of its generation. It began in 1975 as a standalone store on Oxford Street and was one of the first retailers to start importing big European brands.

— TB: Who were the target customers originally?

GC: In the early days, the target market was very much the 20-30 year-old guy. The kind of guy that would finish work, round up his pals and head down to Notting Hill to kit himself out ahead of a big night on the town. The store boys were part of the whole experience, and many visitors to the shop would rely on their inside knowledge for the best nightclubs and bars in town. It’s stayed that way to this day. Sharp shirts, suits and a decent pair of loafers were always on the bill.

— TB: How has that evolved?

GC: Woodhouse has changed a lot from those early days. We now buy into sports brands, and particularly technical sportswear from the likes of Stone Island and C.P. Company. Boss and Armani are still big labels for us, along with more niche brands such as J Lindeberg.

— TB: Who was the founder of Woodhouse and who owns it now?

GC: Woodhouse was started by Philip Start back in 1975. It’s since been passed through a few hands, including Sir Phillip Green and Four Marketing. It is now part of the Clothingsites.co.uk portfolio.

— TB: How many Woodhouse shops are there these days, and where?

GC: Currently we just have our flagship store, which is on Westbourne Grove in Notting Hill.

MENSWEAR BUYER WOODHOUSE

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— TB: What’s your background in the menswear industry, and how did you arrive at where you are today?

GC: I worked on the shop floor in Limeys in Nottingham before moving over to Four Marketing, where I really cut my teeth in the wholesale side of the business. When the opportunity to move to Woodhouse came along I couldn’t turn it down. The opportunity to help rebuild such an exciting brand with as much history as it has was one I couldn’t let pass.

— TB: What did your Limeys background teach you?

GC: I started with Limeys as a Saturday boy in its Sheffield store, where I was made assistant manager within six months. I moved over to the Nottingham shop for a year and then went travelling in Australia. When I came home I went back to the store as the manager. Limeys gave me my first buying experience. I was assisting buying the top two brands at the time – Stone Island and G-Star – with David Foster, who’s now the managing director of Woodhouse. Limeys was really influential in the menswear market at the time, being the second largest independent in the country.

— TB: What is the new Woodhouse Dapper Stag collection all about?

GC: The Dapper Stag line was created to celebrate our 40th anniversary this year. It’s a range of menswear staples that have all been manufactured in the UK. UK design and production is something that’s deeply embedded in the Woodhouse psyche, and the collection reflects this.

— TB: How else are you celebrating 40 years of Woodhouse?

GC: We’re working with some of our top brands to create some unique competitions and oneoff products for our customers. There are a number of campaigns, most notably our monthly collaborative competitions, where we’ve worked with some of our best brands to offer unique and highly sought-after prizes, products and experiences. At the end of the year we plan to hold an event that looks back and celebrates everything we’ve accomplished in the past 12 months. It would be rude not to.

— TB: Do you have a strong online presence?

GC: Nowadays, the majority of our business

JUNE 2015 | INTERVIEW | 21

is done online. It’s nice to have a bricks-andmortar presence, but I think in the modern-day retail world customers love the convenience of ordering their clothes on the move, with the guarantee of receiving it in the post the next day.

It’s a great service.

— TB: Is bricks and mortar still at the heart of the business, though?

GC: I do think it’s important to have a store, especially because coming from a retail background I believe strongly in the importance of great customer service. The lads in our store are some of the best at this, but it’s also something we look to mirror with our online business.

— TB: Has there been a recent revamp of the old format?

GC: We have recently moved our website to a new platform called Magento, which has improved the customer journey 100 per cent, and has allowed us to cater for our overseas customers much better.

Our on-site developments mark a big shift in this our anniversary year. It’s a year packed with new features, better customer shopping experiences, and an altogether more polished service.

— TB: What are your bestselling brands that make Woodhouse a go-to shop these days?

GC: Our bestselling brands still tend to be on the sportier side. Stone Island is a huge one for us.

It never disappoints in creating really inspiring collections year after year that tend to fly out.

— TB: How has the menswear business changed over recent years, and how has Woodhouse adapted?

GC: It’s changed a lot. Sadly smaller independents are dying and the bigger multiples are getting stronger. The e-commerce side of the industry has certainly helped the larger indies create more revenue channels to combat the dying footfall.

— TB: Any famous customers who have shopped in Woodhouse over the years, and any these days who always come back for more?

GC: We’ve definitely had a few over the years.

DJ and record producer Paul Oakenfold was a Saturday boy with Woodhouse back in the day.

More recently, we’ve had people such as David Beckham and Damon Albarn shopping in our Notting Hill store, as they both live nearby. Simon Rimmer and Tim Lovejoy wear our Dapper Stag shirts on their Sunday Brunch TV show, too.

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TB: What do you do at Woodhouse that’s different to other menswear retailers? What is your USP as a shop and brand?

GC: We like to think we offer more than just any menswear shop. We’re British born and bred and, through our uniquely curated collections, we present a brand portfolio and style personality that makes us stand out from the crowd.

Recently we’ve remodelled our entire online presence, moving with the most up-to-date technology and embracing brand new features that give a customer service that echoes the great work that the guys do in-store. We’re not a cold-faced label. We’re personable and we know our customers, treating them like an old friend as opposed to just another “customer”. We’ve got 40 years’ experience in the menswear industry, and we have a strong brand presence and tone of voice.

— TB: Do you see the menswear business as a harder market to crack nowadays with all the online brand discounting that’s going on?

GC: It seems the consumer wants cheaper prices combined with luxury. High-street stores are getting much better, so customers are mixing in investment pieces at higher price points with their day-to-day wear. They might be buying Topman T-shirts, but they’ll be wearing a Belstaff jacket. As retailers we have to recognise this and adapt. It’s not easy maintaining a good customer proposition when you’re always vying for the best position ahead of your competition, especially when you’re battling a heavily discounted environment.

— TB: How are you going about tackling it?

GC: We’re tackling the change in the market by bolstering our overall customer offering.

That’s where the new features and slicker checkout come into play. We’ve moved our online communications into a more personalised arena, with dedicated messaging, dynamic content and more of a “tailored for you” service. We feel this is where we need to take our brand proposition in order to put us ahead of the rest in a tough industry. We want to create an environment where people “want” to shop with us, because they know us, trust us and know what to expect – irrespective of price. We value the concept of brand loyalty just as much as we value a full price sale. It’s about the long game. We’ll do all we can to be the “go-to” brand.

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JUNE 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 23

P R O D U C T

WHEN FITNESS MEETS FASHION Fitness brand Every Second Counts has branched into menswear with a fashion-inspired collection designed to accommodate the man who likes to work out in comfort and style.

Having successfully launched into the fitness market in 2014 with a womenswear line, the label’s move into menswear is a natural progression. Every Second Counts Men is split between three key lines – Spectrum, Seamless and Luxe – which together create a 16-piece sports wardrobe.

Collection highlights include The Raise the Bar Sweat Pants and Sleeveless Sweat in trend-led grey marl and The Make it Count Hoody. There is also the Sprint Jacket, which includes a number of cleverly thought out pockets for items such as iPods and keys, and the lightweight Sports Shorts, featuring a hexagon print, two-way stretch and high-visibility mesh.

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RADAR Spotlighting style

ALL EYES ON GOLA Sportswear brand Gola has launched its first eyewear range. Taking inspiration from the 70s, the debut offer of 11 styles combines the brand’s British sportswear aesthetic with quality materials and fine detailing. Focusing on a classic colour palette, the collection is available in black, navy, green, yellow, graphite and electric blue.

Born from humble beginnings in a small workshop in Leicester in 1905, Gola remains true to its roots by continuing to offer authentic styles that combine its British heritage with the latest technologies and advances in design.

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GREGORY JAMES ESTABLISHED: 1997 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Collection designs are inspired by the North East of England and take on a distinct utilitarian appearance.

— HISTORY: Andrew Thompson, a menswear retailer in Middlesbrough, acquired the brand name and began to develop a shirt collection under the Gregory James name 10 years ago.

First established in 1997 under the name Gregory James Robson, Andrew Thompson acquired the brand in 2005. After finding early success, the label has enjoyed a reputation as a label delivering a high-quality, contemporary casual menswear range, with collection features found in the attention to detail and an overall premise of less is more. The Gregory James logo is inspired by Anthony Gormley’s Angel of the North, the famous statue completed in February 1998. Thompson’s vision for the brand was to create a timeless product that encompassed the spirit of young up and coming athletes from the North of England. Presenting a distinct utilitarian theme, the collection is solely designed in the North East of England and is inspired by industrial revolutions. One of the label’s sports star ambassadors is Richard Kilty, who recently gained the title of the World’s Fastest Man. Overall, the brand’s menswear range produces a look that is both unassuming and timeless.

Currently, the collection is available to view by appointment only. Wholesale prices range from £60 to £90.

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TRADITION & MODERNITY Prints are the dominating theme in Roy Roger’s s/s 16 collection, teaming authenticity with a second-hand flavour. Bali prints – exclusively commissioned by the brand from a craft enterprise in Bali that employs the old block-printing method using wooden blocks – in particular are key, monochrome on a brick-coloured ground or available in three colours.

The final effect features the precious and characteristic imperfections which mean that no two shirts, polo shirts, pants, Bermuda shorts or swim shorts are ever the same. The nautical memories collection, meanwhile, is conceived for a man with a traditional style and second-hand patina.

Prints of old geographical maps enhance polo shirts and T-shirts, swim shorts and shirts, and alternate with monochrome prints of fish or – for the shirts – with new stripes stolen from the underwear of yesteryear.

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PRODUCT NEWS Spotlighting style EVERYDAY LUXURY Domingo Rodriguez’ signature style uses deceptively simple techniques to create a contemporary menswear brand.

Taking a luxury angle on an everyday wardrobe, the label creates a sense of sophistication through unique shapes and pattern cutting, which borrow as much from crisp tailoring as from sportswear influences. The designer’s fashion CV is hugely impressive, having clocked up a number of prestigious accolades since he launched his first collection in 2008.

His array of honours include winning the menswear award at Graduate Fashion Week with his first collection seven years ago, and the Harold Tillman Scholarship to study on the MA design and technology course at London College of Fashion. His graduate MA range for a/w 10 was scouted

by Asos for two exclusive capsule collections, Domingo Rodriguez for Asos, and his s/s 11 line was scouted by Colin McDowell and presented during Paris Fashion Week in June 2010 as one of Esquire magazine’s 7 Brilliant Brits.

The designer is set to exhibit his latest offering at London Collections: Men next month, followed by the launch of his first fragrance, BAEZ by Domingo Rodriguez, in the coming months.

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MILLENNIUM STYLE Danish menswear tailor Martin Asbjørn Bjerre’s fifth collection of statement jackets, knitwear and well-draped suits provides the perfect wardrobe for the casual Millennial man. Drawing inspiration from the cool, aloof men of the early 90s, such as artist Richard Hawkins, the collection stays true to the brand’s signature style of impeccable menswear tailoring and construction, high-end finishes and modern fits.

Oversized, draped shapes are teamed with tight-fitted rock ’n’ roll cuts, creating punchy and individual head-to-toe looks.

Highlight pieces include the suede fringe jacket, black biker shearling jacket, XXL coat in fuzzy wool, tailored double-breasted blazer and slim-fit blazer with matching slim-fit trousers.

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STYLE HIGHLIGHT

BROOKS ENGLAND John Boultee, a trademark of Brooks England, has added a fresh and sophisticated colour range to its small leather goods collection. Made with simplicity and attention to detail, the range features classic leather wallets in various sizes perfect for everyday travel and constructed in the finest leather. The minimalist designs of the small leather goods result in a collection of durable and classic pieces that only improve with age.

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RADAR Spotlighting style

EDEN PARK GOES OFF-PISTE

HENRY TODD ESTABLISHED: 2014 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Vivid stripe combinations, creative rib detailing, graphic patterns, printed knits and cable designs made from fine Scottish cashmere and crafted by knitwear artisans.

— HISTORY: The brand was created from a desire to produce beautiful, stylish, high-quality knitwear that was also affordable.

Targeting the 18-25 market, Henry Todd presents a handcrafted knitwear range that combines a preppy style with experimental design features. The result is a collection featuring bold colours and quality fabrics. Keen to support UK manufacturers, making and sourcing a range of cashmere garment from Scotland, the British heritage label’s standout pieces from the s/s 15 line include the brand’s limited-edition diamond-pattern jumper and the Regatta Oar sweater. Both items are hand-knitted in Scotland and made from quality cashmere yarn.

Garments are produced to have timeless appeal, and don’t follow particular fashion trends – emphasising the brand’s overall focus on creating unique, handcrafted pieces. Key features include vivid stripe combinations, creative rib detailing, graphic patterning, printed knits and rich cable designs made from fine cashmere blends. Currently, the label sells mostly online through its e-commerce site. However, the brand is keen to focus on the wholesale arm of the business, and plans to present its a/w 15 collection to potential stockists at a variety of trade shows this season. Wholesale prices average at £180.

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For a/w 15 Eden Park has taken inspiration from the skiing resorts of New Zealand, which are increasingly gaining momentum among winter sports enthusiasts.

The brand aims to insure its origins and key features are maintained and yet adapted based on the latest trends of the seasons. The collection is therefore based around extra-warm outfits with items such as down jackets, multi-pocket parkas with coyote fur and sheepskin collars, jumpers in Fair Isle motifs, graphics, large cable knits, boiled-wool blazers, flannel shirts and large checks.

The wool beanie hat is the must-have accessory to accompany the mountain boots, and has become a key part of the Eden Park man’s wardrobe. The winter looks have been perfectly adapted for all circumstances as they have been designed as urban outfits, combining optimal comfort, modern cuts and a range of washed colours that vary from burgundy to brown with subtle tints of hemp, redwood and shades of blue.

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IN BRIEF SUCCESS FOR STIGHLORGAN Stighlorgan bags is having a bit of a fashion moment, and continues to fly out of retailers’ doors. The brand’s new roll-top bag called Ronan in particular has become a bestseller, so much so that the brand is planning to make it a Stighlorgan anchor piece. For s/s 16 the brand has designed a host of exciting new bag styles, which are complemented by lots of new fabric and print designs, including some unusual fabrics in the mix. And to top it off, the label has been invited by Highsnobiety to be part of its top 20 showcase at White in Milan at the end of June.

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JUNE 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 28

AIGLE £41.70 01608 813860

SPERRY TOP-SIDER £35.42 020 3376 2740

JUSTIN REECE £23.50 07836 504085

J SHOES £34 01858 468123

STALLARD £60 07719 168980

CHATHAM £28.75 0845 270 0217

NICHOLAS DEAKINS £31.91 0113 244 6875

DRIVING FORCE Although unstructured in style, the driving shoe sits at the smarter end of the casual scale this season. Buyers can expect to find lightweight neutral lace-ups next to pop-coloured loafer styles and, while leather is used frequently in uppers and detailing, breathable suede options are key to capturing this trend perfectly.

— Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

ANTONY MORATO £99.90 020 7739 8560

CAMEL ACTIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 0161 2340 999

SWIMS £42 0161 222 8048

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WESC £12 01271 865600

MI PAC PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7739 7620

CHUNK CLOTHING £11 020 7609 6758

CARTOON NETWORK A favourite of the likes of Kit Neale and Christopher Shannon, playful motifs and cartoon characters adorn sweats, tees and accessories this season, adding some humour to s/s 15. Expect to see familiar faces with The Simpsons and Snoopy spotted throughout, sitting next to linear illustrations and graphic prints.

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HYPE £16.99 0116 262 3048

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

HAVAIANAS £8.80 020 8748 0333

BJORN BORG £9 020 7637 1395

D-STRUCT £20 020 7739 7620

DUCK AND COVER £10 0844 693 0401

VOLCOM PRICE ON REQUEST 0845 486 5266

WAXX £7.50 0114 249 3037

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PITTI UOMO Still the greatest menswear show on earth, the 88th edition of Pitti Uomo, taking place on 16-19 June, promises the finest mix of contemporary and classic menswear at the always amazing Fortezza Da Basso in Florence. Tom Bottomley selects a few highlights to tickle the buying buds.

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t

SCOTCH & SODA Travel, vintage rarities and summers past form the outline for Scotch & Soda’s s/s 16 collection, with different stories weaved in. The first, entitled Tokyo Cult, delivers key looks with an Eastern, but urban edge. Cool, classic tailored styles with a sports-luxe influence build easy-going combinations. Authentic and original kimono styling is in focus, teamed with collegiate graphics and hidden, sports-inspired finishes.

All-over prints look to Batik, but appear on technical sportswear fabrics to form street-style pieces. Safari Rave features pieces inspired by modernist African art and the psychedelic feel of 70s peace and love posters.

It’s a real retro story. Key pieces include military style jackets with sports linings. As with everything this season, a sports edge is present. Graphic art inspired by vintage band tees can be worn in combination with lightweight fabrics, neoprene and mesh. All-over prints pay homage to abstract African art. Urban Bazaar gets us ready for the festival season, with bold Indian-inspired prints, and embroideries that lift artwork and add an edge to fresh pieces. Finally, Beach Royals features damaged fringing and raw-edge details for the guy that’s “hammock ready”. You can’t argue with that.

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ALTEA In terms of the UK market, Altea’s complete menswear offer is seemingly untapped, though it has to be said it’s seriously worth a look. Best known for many years of neckwear production, Giuseppe Sartori opened a tie shop frequented by Milan’s most sophisticated clientele in 1892. Four different generations of the Sartori family have been at the helm of the company ever since, with its colourful ties and scarves in wonderful fabrics still a huge part of the brand’s appeal.

The move into a full men’s collection only happened 12 years ago, but it is seriously growing apace. The people behind Altea know a thing or two about presentation, too, as its stand at Pitti is always one of the most prominent in the main building. For s/s 16, the knitted jacket is still firmly centre stage, to be teamed with plain or bandana printed tees. Optical patterns and geometric designs abound in the new collection and yarns are, as always, exclusive, in a mix of techno and natural to lend a 3D, material-rich texture to designs and prints.

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C.P. COMPANY This year marks the 40th anniversary of the legendary Italian outerwear specialist. Experimentation, innovation and carefully selected materials and design have always been the defining characteristics of the C.P. Company style. Its creative roots stem firstly, of course, from the genius of Massimo Osti and, today, from Enzo Fusco (FGF Industry), the well-known entrepreneur who took over the helm. Fusco has decided to dedicate this entire year to celebrating this important milestone for the brand, and many events and initiatives will take place over the year. The first event sees the famous Goggle Jacket under the spotlight, taking centre stage at a drinks reception sponsored by Pitti Immagine on the Tuesday. It will be presented in a limited-edition selection, in different fabrics in collaboration with important suppliers that wanted to support the brand for its anniversary.

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PRIVATE WHITE V.C Switching its usual location to the Sale Della Ronda section of the Fortezza Da Basso this summer, with a brand new fit-out, Private White V.C has plenty to shout about. The first big brand story for the season is the launch of its new ECOSEAM® fabric – apparently the world’s first environmentally friendly fabric. Developed

by Nobel Prize winning scientists in the North of England, the state-of-the-art technology has revolutionised the world of textiles by eradicating the use of environmentally harmful resins, oils and chemicals. The fabric is also water and stain resistant. The brand has four stories for s/s 16 – Tropical, Performance Essentials, Eco Summer and Workwear. It has also just launched a Made in England shirting collection, as well as jersey, to give the customer a much more rounded offering.

But you know the outerwear will still be king.

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GLOVERALL

p

BARACUTA In addition to the core offering, Baracuta will launch two new capsule lines for s/s 16. The Archives collection is a capsule range of re-mastered jackets from, you guessed it, the Baracuta archive. It “revisits the brand’s signature DNA”, paying homage to the original Baracuta designs with original finishes and design details. The Archives range includes the 001, the original 50s G9 made in 100 per cent cotton with the traditional Baracuta rib, zips, buttons and label designs. And the Made in Italy 002 leather G9 in soft lambskin has been sanded to mimic a vintage aesthetic. Once worn by the golfing elite, Baracuta also revisits its sporting origins for its second capsule collection with the introduction of the Baracuta Plus + line, comprising the breathable nylon water-resistant G9, vest and stretch pique polo shirt.

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The s/s 16 collection is titled Off Duty. Inspired by pieces a movie star would throw on for a spin in the convertible, or on the café racer on his days off. All outerwear fabrics are shower-proof this season, and there is a washed and proofed cotton available in summer brights, including orange, pink, yellow and green as well as the usual navy and khaki options. This fabric is offered in a mid-length duffle with classic Gloverall styling. There is also a new bonded cotton in navy and red. Key styles in this fabric are the detachable hood reefer for men, and a hooded cape for women. Lightweight fabrics are something that Gloverall is focusing on this season, with a washed resin coated cotton that will be offered in navy, army green and red.

Key styles in this fabric are the coaches jacket, as well as the lightweight motorcycle jacket for men, and an oversized parka for women.

There’s also a super-lightweight nylon ripstop Harrington and car coat, all-new shirting – featuring Oxfords and chambray, knitted polos and grey marl hoodies and sweats.

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THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS I N T E R N AT I O N A L F A S H I O N T R A D E S H O W | 7 – 9 J U LY 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com

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JUNE 2015 | PREVIEW | 35

PANORAMA BERLIN 7-9 JULY 2015 – EXPOCENTRE CITY, BERLIN

With a host of new names, dedicated areas, events and lectures, the s/s 16 edition of Panorama Berlin is set to be its strongest to date. MWB’s Victoria Jackson speaks to CEO Joerg Wichmann about the importance of trade shows.

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Despite its infancy, Panorama Berlin has firmly cemented itself as one of the key international shows to visit for both mainstream menswear and womenswear. Located in the heart of Berlin at the ExpoCentre, the event will welcome over 400 brands across 40,000 sq m.

With new brands including Base London, Jeffrey Campbell, Twist & Tango, Vera Mont and Betty & Co, the July edition will also see the launch of Nova – an area of the show (located in Hall 1.2) that combines authentic product and heritage labels with directional and innovative lifestyle products. Spanning 6,000 sq m, the hall will also include a bloggers’ base, street food court and art space.

Ahead of the show, MWB’s Victoria Jackson speaks to Panorama CEO Joerg Wichmann about s/s 16 and the importance of trade shows for both brands and independent retailers.

Victoria Jackson: What function do fashion trade shows have nowadays?

Joerg Wichmann: First and foremost, fashion trade shows have to bring people and markets together. For us, Panorama Berlin is a bi-annual gathering of the players – the shop owners and buyers, the designers, the companies, the fashion media and much more. It’s about information, inspiration and business contacts. But fashion trade shows have to create their identity and gravity – they need to have their very own content, image and relevance.

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VJ: How international do fashion trade shows need to be?

JW: First of all, fashion trade shows need to be relevant and, if they’re relevant, they are immediately international, as no-one wants to miss an important event. With buyers from 97 nations, we do have that kind of international relevance.

— VJ: Are showrooms a surrogate for trade shows?

JW: Are pears a surrogate for apples? Why would someone want to replace fashion exhibitions?

Showrooms will never be a surrogate for trade fairs, nor the other way around. Both are important for a lively fashion landscape.

— VJ: Should the end consumer be able to visit a fashion trade show?

JW: We are convinced that trade exhibitions should be for trade visitors only. Panorama is for professionals only, and always will be as we want to focus on giving buyers and store owners the best possible platform, input and service, and you can only really focus on one side of the business.

Otherwise you end up with a show that is good for no-one really.

— VJ: What is your forecast regarding trade shows?

JW: At the speed the world is changing, including all the conflicts that are beyond fashion, it is almost impossible to predict the future. But as long as consumers want fashion, there will be a need for fashion, and as such the need for platforms

where the trade gathers will still be there – even if consumers, in the end, decide to shop exclusively online. At Panorama Berlin, we see lots of buyers from the world’s biggest fashion online traders and even they need fashion trade fairs just as much as any store owner and buyer.

— VJ: So what’s new for Panorama Berlin for s/s 16?

JW: Due to the continued high demand, the show is again extending its exhibition space by another hall with 6,000 sq m of surface area. The new section, called Nova, will be located on the first floor on top of the entrance hall. Here we will create a trend-lab space – presenting cutting edge and niche collections that inspire our visitors. Diana Vreeland, the legendary editorin-chief of American Vogue, knew the eye has to travel. Nova is just that – pure inspiration.

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REGISTRATION: Tickets are free of charge and can be ordered via the Panorama website: www.panorama-berlin.com/register

OPENING HOURS: 7 July 2015 – 9am-6pm 8 July 2015 – 9am-6pm 9 July 2015 – 9am-6pm —

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JUNE 2015 | PREVIEW | 36

SEEK AND YE SHALL FIND As a niche show, Seek has really come into its own, making it one of the must-visit locations during Berlin Fashion Week. Here’s a taster of the players for the upcoming edition.

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BEN SHERMAN Ben Sherman’s distinctive and inherent brand DNA is explored and reinterpreted for s/s 16, inspired by signature Ben Sherman references from the brand’s Mod heritage and adoption by British sub-cultures.

The sartorial approach taken by the label each season reinforces the confidence, sharpness and all-in-all pride in wearing Ben Sherman. The collection is held together by three main threads – Carnaby Gingham, London Vinyl and British Beach Huts. Alongside the mainline collection, there is also a collaboration with The Beatles.

Both partners in this alliance are rich in 60s heritage, and this is about bringing two icons together to create a range inspired by the Sergeant Pepper “drum” symbol.

The collaboration has seen the design team reworking the iconic drum image and fusing it with Ben Sherman’s statement products, including the Harrington jacket, button-down shirt and graphic T-shirts. Amazing what can be done with a little help from your friends, ahem.

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HAWKSMILL DENIM CO Hawksmill’s aim is not to chase cyclical trends. The s/s 16 line is therefore seen as building on the foundations established with the brand’s first-ever collection for a/w 15 – set to drop in stores such as Oi Polloi, Selfridges and Edifice 417 in Tokyo for the first time this July. The brainchild of founders Fraser Trewick, the former Urban Outfitters buyer and more recently UK distributor for Nudie Jeans, and design and production specialist Anthony Smith – who’s worked with more leading brands than you can poke a knitting needle at – Hawksmill is continuing to offer premium dry selvedge denim from both Japanese and American mills. But this time round with the addition of a washed and repaired denim selection, using the brand’s exclusively developed 14oz organic denim. Inspired by vintage jeans owned by themselves and friends, the collection consists of a tight offering of authentically washed denim jeans and jackets. The remainder of the range reflects this with sun-bleached jersey and washed out indigo shirts and jackets. Hawksmill will surely be a grower.

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JUNE 2015 | PREVIEW | 37

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UNIVERSAL WORKS

HAPPY SOCKS

Among the most wearable menswear out there at the minute, Universal Works seems to know how to play with key trends while also maintaining its own identity and look. Apparently the s/s 16 collection is going to be the brand’s best one yet, too – intriguing indeed.

Interesting fabrics are always at the heart of what it does, but even more so for next season. There are classic and technical fabrics in contemporary shapes, washed and unstructured tailoring, great shirts as always and “everyday” jackets. Mixed in are Universal Works’ interpretations of mid-century British textile design, shown through subtle patterns, colours and contrasts. Like a/w 15, this collection feels more grown-up, but there is also some Wes Anderson-like fun from key colours and detailing.

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In its quest to keep feet (and owners) happy, the Stockholm brand has been on a World Tour, showcasing its latest collections, which now include some very natty underwear – a line that is expanding for s/s 16, to symbolise the international growth of the brand. A catalogue for s/s 16 has subsequently been shot in a series of different locations – from Stockholm through Los Angeles to Tokyo. All shot by a curated selection of highly regarded multi-national photographers. The goal is to keep the ever-growing customer base “happy” by presenting an extensive variety of ways to wear Happy Socks. Well, you’ve got to admire its creativity at bigging up such a simple product, right? And sales of the brand’s socks are proof in the pudding that it’s doing something right.

Seek will see the label show more fresh designs and colourways that knock your eyes for six, but we’re guaranteed to see some great new patterns to keep it cool yet commercial.

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POINTER The s/s 16 line from contemporary footwear brand Pointer will have a focus on Japanese craftsmanship, ranging from traditional dyeing (called Shibori) to artwork reminiscent of Japanese black and white tattoo art. This line will also see the launch of the casual running segment with the debut of the Connor style.

The artist the brand has chosen to work with this season is amazing illustrator Chrysa Koukoura. Her artwork will be shown on two laser-etched uppers (which is also a new thing for Pointer), and will also be used throughout the line for detailing and packaging.

Established in London in 2004, Pointer was created with the simple aim of making high-quality, well-designed footwear that takes its inspiration from art, design, music and the sub-cultural. Over technical or over-hyped it ain’t, but clever it is. Re-inventing the classics with a playful mix of materials, styling and patterns is still where the focus firmly lies for the brand. Refreshing in a sea of techno trainers out there right now.

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FARAH Inspiration for the new season comes from The Young British Artists – the name given to a group of irreverent visual artists who first began to exhibit together in London in the early 90s. Inspiration is taken from the painting style, attitude and exuberant nature of these individuals. Reworked 90s sportswear pieces are combined with print and texture to create modern but masculine looks. The collection combines considered design with performance fabrics and a vibrant colour palette. Capturing the label’s ethos of creating garments that are well tailored, understated and progressive through construction, shape and silhouette, s/s 16 sounds like another winner. Structured nylon cotton blends are combined with a range of technical outerwear to give the collection a premium sportswear feel, while cotton/ linen blends, seersucker and slub chambrays in pastel shades update classic pieces to give them a contemporary identity.

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C O N T E M P O R A RY FA S H I O N T R A D E S H O W

SPRING/ SUMMER 2016 ARENA BERLIN

J U L Y 8 T H - 1 0 TH , 2 0 1 5

EICHENSTRASSE 4

W W W. S E E K E X H I B I T I O N S . C O M

12435 BERLIN

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PREVIEW | SHOW GUIDE | 40

EXHIBITION CALENDAR The dates, the locations, the highlights – your comprehensive guide to the key domestic and international shows for the spring/summer 2016 season.

Sponsored by:

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN

PANORAMA

12-15 June 2015 The Hospital Club, Covent Garden & Victoria House, Bloomsbury 020 7759 1999 www.londoncollections.co.uk —

7-9 July 2015 ExpoCentre City, Berlin 0049 (0)30208891340 www.panorama-belin.com —

PITTI UOMO 16-19 June 2015 Fortezza Da Basso Florence 0039 (0)5509491861 www.pittimmagine.com —

Show & Order 7-9 July 2015 Köpenicker Strasse 70 Berlin 10179 0049 (0)3057704181 www.showandorder.de

SEEK

Capsule Paris 26-28 June 2015 Cite de la Mode, 75013 Paris 0012 (0)122069310 www.capsuleshow.com

8-10 July 2015 Eichenstraße 4, 12435 Berlin 0049 (0)302088913400 www.seekexhibitions.com —

MAN Paris 26-28 June 2015 25 Rue Yes Toudic Paris 10 0033 (0)143672752 www.man-shows.com

PREMIUM

Tranoi Homme 27-29 June 2015 Palais de la Bourse, 72002, Paris 0033 (0)153018490 Bread & Butter 7-9 July 2015 Airport Berlin – Templehof 0049 (0)302000370 www.breadandbutter.com

Heart of Fashion

8-10 July 2015 Station-Berlin Luckenwalder Strasse 4-6, 10963 Berlin 0049 (0)30208891330 www.premiumexhibitions.com — Bright 8-10 July 2015 Am Flutgraben, 12435 Berlin 0049 (0)6966962157 www.brighttradeshow.com

Modefabriek 12-13 July 2015 RAI, Europaplein 8, 1078 GZ Amsterdam 0031 (0)204421960 www.modefabriek.nl

PROJECT NEW YORK 19-21 July 2015 Jacob Javits Center, New York 0012 (0)187407092 www.magiconline.com — Capsule New York 20-21 July 2015 Basketball City 299 South St, New York 0012 (0)122069310 www.capsuleshow.com Liberty Fairs New York 20-22 July 2015 Pier 94, New York 0021 24734523 www.libertyfairs.com MAN New York 20-22 July 2015 775 Washington Street, New York 10014 0033 (0)143665703 www.man-shows.com Indx Menswear Show 29-30 July 2015 Cranmore Park, Solihull 0121 683 1434 www.indxshow.co.uk

9-11 August 2015

Moda, NEC Birmingham. moda-uk.co.uk

WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

JACKET REQUIRED 29-30 July 2015 The Old Truman Brewery, London info@jacket-required.com www.jacket-required.com —

PREVIEW | SHOW GUIDE | 00

IMC 16-17 August 2015 Whittlebury Northamtonshire 01473 256061 www.imcmenswear.co.uk

GDS & Global Shoes 29-31 July 2015 Messe Dusseldorf, Germany 0049 (0)21145607606 www.gds-online.com

Capsule Las Vegas 17-19 August 2015 The Venetian Ballroom 3355 S Las Vegas Blvd 0012 (0)122068310 www.capsuleshow.com

CIFF 5-7 August 2015 Bella Center Copenhagen 0045 (0)32472213 www.ciff.dk

Liberty Fairs Las Vegas 17-19 August 2015 Sands Expo, Venetian, Las Vegas 0021 24734523 www.libertyfairs.com

CIFF RAVEN

Magic 17-19 August 2015 Las Vegas & Mandalay Bay Convention Centres, Nevada 0018 77554834

5-7 August 2015 Julius Thomsens Plads 1 Frederiksberg 0045 (0)32472213 www.ciff.dk — Revolver 5-7 August 2015 Meatpacking District, Tietgensgade 65 DK-1704 Copenhagen V 0045 (0)39648586 www.revolver.dk

MODA GENT 9-11 August 2015 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk —

TheMicam 1-4 September 2015 Fieramilano, Milan 0039 (0)2438291 www.micamonline.com

JACKET REQUIRED

PANORAMA

PITTI UOMO

CPM Moscow 2-5 September 2015 Expocenter Fairgroup Moscow 0049 (0)2114396312 www.cpm-moscow.com

MODA FOOTWEAR

Who’s Next 4-7 September 2015 Parc des expositions de la Porte de Versailles Paris 0033 (0)140137483 www.whosnext-tradeshow.com

9-11 August 2015 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk —

LondonEdge 6-8 September 2015 Business Design Centre, Islington 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com

SELECT

THE HUB

9-11 August 2015 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk —

13-15 October 2015 Central Studios, Xintiandi Shanghai www.thehub.hk —

MODA GENT

SELECT

SEEK

Woman Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories Footwear Gent

9-11 August 2015 Moda, NEC Birmingham moda-uk.co.uk

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JUNE 2015 | REVIEW | 43

THE BEST OF BRITANNIA Its Northern debut at The Old Post Office in Preston last month saw The Best of Britannia showcase the finest in British design and manufacturing. Rebecca Jackson picks some of the key brands from the event.

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CARRADICE

THE ODD CHAIR COMPANY

DENI-DENI

Bike bag brand Carradice has designed and produced in Nelson, Lancashire, for over 80 years. With a factory located in a Victorian cotton mill, down a cobbled street, the company still maintains the tradition, values and production ethics originally used by founder Wilf Carradice.

Encorporating a strong focus on handcrafted techniques, design features are included to serve a purpose and promote Carradice’s heritage. With a strong dedication to quality production, the result is a durable range of panniers, saddlebags and handlebar bags, among others.

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The Odd Chair Company maintains a high-profile client list, which includes luxury hotels and retailers including Liberty’s. The fourth-generation family run company supplies bespoke and contemporary furniture, taking pride in hand-making the quality pieces. Established over 40 years ago, the company creates bespoke upholstered furniture in workshops near its head office in Lancashire. Each frame is made from solid beech and is dowelled, glued, screwed and corner framed. The upholstery uses fine materials including hair, coir, wool wadding, feather and down.

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The second-generation family run company Deni-Deni offers bespoke leather goods including luggage, bags, mirrors, belts, tablet sleeves and, more recently, a range of grooming kits in collaboration with London’s oldest pharmacy company D.R. Harris. Items such as the leather hangers can be embossed and customised to carry personal messages. Though the company is still in its early stages, founder Denise Pearson has amassed over 30 years of industry experience, which no doubt helped the brand win its gold medal from the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers.

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SWIFT & CO

CHEANEY

FREDDIES FRUIT LAGER

Formed in 2000, footwear brand Swift & Co has developed a unique manufacturing process with its Italian partners, allowing for flexible and fast ordering options without compromising on the high-quality range. Shoes are manufactured by using a stitching method without the use of solvent or chemical based adhesive allowing the brand to produce a more eco-friendly end product. With production based in Burnley, Lancashire, the independent footwear brand aims to resurrect British footwear manufacturing by developing state-of-the-art technology techniques to save labour and bring down costs.

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Founded by Joseph Cheaney in Northampton in 1886, boot and shoemaker Cheaney focuses on preserving a traditional British look. Classic manufacturing methods are combined with contemporary to create the brand’s handcrafted range of boots and shoes. High-quality materials are combined with high-quality practices – which is the reason why the label is one of the premier producers of Goodyear welted footwear. The footwear brand also offers a refurbishment service to rebuild worn-out shoes, using skilled craftsmen to complete the service.

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Daryl Moss launched Freddies Fruit Lager in 2014 after identifying a gap in the lager market.

As a former sales director at Kopparberg, Moss brings his vast industry knowledge to the new start-up. It’s been a good start for the company, with the drink brand finding a place at major stockists Booths and Amazon. The four per cent ABV lager is currently available to buy as a 500ml bottle in two flavours – mango and wild berries.

With an aim to create a light, refreshing flavour unlike any other on the market, Freddies Fruit Lager is specially brewed locally to reduce the “hoppy” taste often associated with lager.

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JUNE 2015 | PEOPLE | 44

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK NICK TENTIS 37 SAVILE ROW, LONDON W1S

SIMON SAYS London’s Marylebone High Street is a curious place. A decade of curated management by the singularly effective agency CWM has transformed it from village backwater to über mittel-European playground for the wealthy bored. Prime rents are eye-watering, but a full occupancy and mega premiums attest to its success. The de Walden family must be very happy.

I was having breakfast there last month with James, my friend and buyer from David Jones in Australia. Though we met at 8.30am, the restaurant didn’t start to serve food till 10am. The service was brisk to the point of disinterest. No smiles. But they know their client – the “ladies who breakfast” ambled in at 10am. No hurry… plenty of time for a tall skinny latté and a spot of something tasty before the hard work of shopping. Someone’s gotta do it.

Our conversation turned to how luxurious I felt, sneaking off for the morning to essentially gossip, dressing it up as business relationship building. “Ah,” said James. “Is that what luxury means to you?” I had to think about that, and asked him why he’d brought that up. “I was in Selfridges yesterday,” he said. “As ever, it looked amazing, but isn’t it just Bond Street in a big shop? Where’s the sense of exclusivity and luxury? I didn’t see anything I’d not seen before.”

He raised a good point. As Selfridges becomes ever more a collection of expensive global brands, all in their own shop fits, all under one roof, has it just become a supermarket of very pricey stuff? How does it compete with those brands’ own stores – often just a few minutes down the road? I have huge admiration and respect for Selfridges, but I have to concede to James; it’s not my idea of luxury.

Sophisticated consumers are constantly redefining luxury, and I wonder at what point big brands such as Gucci and LV reach saturation?

Are they still on your Christmas list? I’m not so sure. Wouldn’t you rather go to a chic boutique hotel and have an amazing, memory filled weekend? I think luxury is in a process of being redefined. Just because something is expensive doesn’t make it luxurious. Sure, a Rolls Royce is a luxurious car; but it becomes much more so because Rolls will customise it and make it just for you. Is a Burberry wallet, bought at any duty free shop anywhere in the world, really luxury?

Luxury should be personal, defined by the individual. It should stir the emotion, not necessarily empty the bank account. The challenge for retailers is to deliver a sense of luxury at all times, across all products to all customers. As brands, we need product that resonates and connects with shoppers. It doesn’t carry a big ticket. It can start with a smile. It can start with a simple cup of coffee.

Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

Nick Tentis opened his first concept store on Savile Row in 2010. The historic home of tailoring and menswear is the perfect location for the shop’s offering of clothing and lifestyle products. In addition to a range of sharp tailoring, separates and accessories the shop also holds an in-store espresso bar. As the only shop on Savile Row to boast a coffee service, customers can enjoy a range of drinks from café latte to espresso while browsing the store’s latest offering. The shop design is inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s sciencefiction classic, 2001 A Space Odyssey, particularly the final scene of the film.

Underlit floors create a contemporary look and combine with classic and modern furniture for a retro-futuristic appearance. The store has become well-known among its varied customer base for its unique appearance.

As a designer for over 15 years, Tentis also designs the store’s Nick Tentis range around the world of film, which is evident in the slick appearance of collection items.

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PLAN B

MARK MCCANN Commercial director, Farah

Initially, I entered fashion via the shop floor to gain access to clothing at better prices from the brands of the day in 1988 that I aspired to.

Labels such as Katharine Hamnett, Paul Smith and C.P. Company.

— A big draw for any impressionable 16-year-old. I was really just a typical teenager. I wanted girls, money, night-life, adventure and excitement. The last three points have certainly been covered by my chosen path in fashion. But the Plan B, which would have been much more familiar to my family and friends, would probably have been in the construction business, as a quantity surveyor or civil engineer. Not quite so glamorous. I could have been building social housing in Peckham, not collections to show in Paris.

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JUNE 2015 | PEOPLE | 45

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL MARK WILLIAMS DESIGN DIRECTOR, BEN SHERMAN The first item, and one that has become a favourite of mine, would have to be my Lewis Leathers Super Phantom biker jacket. It took six months to be made bespoke, and fits like a glove. It’s so versatile – I can wear it with my APC raw denims to work with shoes or trainers, and ride home on my motorbike wearing it. I know this will be a piece that will stay with me for life, assuming that I manage to stay slim.

— I also seem to have a problem hoarding footwear. I can’t resist a pair of trainers. I mix it up with the brands from New Balance through Vans to Nike. I would have to say my latest favourites are the 70s re-issue high-top Converse in off-white. They are built better than the normal ones, with more rubber around the toe cap, and go with just about everything. However, I like wearing them with a pair of tapered navy trousers to sharpen up the look.

— I’m also obsessed with British-made shoes. I’ve had a few pairs of Tricker’s and Sanders over the years, and just recently picked up a pair of long wing Loake Royal brogues in dark burgundy. What I love is that for a reasonable price you achieve a top-end look, and the quality is fantastic once broken in.

— My other vice is great outerwear; garments designed with real purpose. When it’s raining, my khaki Dunoon mackintosh is never far away. It’s built with no stitching, just glued and taped seams, and does what it says on the tin – it keeps you dry. Again, it’s not just about trend but, worn with my Ben Sherman Oxford button down shirt, I can rely on a timeless, iconic look.

— Even if I wasn’t working for the brand, if I needed an iconic button-down, Ben Sherman would be my go-to destination. My favourite ones seem to be micro prints, or simple textured slub versions – worn buttoned up where possible, so as to keep the classic collar roll.

TOP TWEETS Bill Murray @BiIIMurray Beauty comes in all shapes and sizes. Small, large, circle, square, thin crust, thick crust, stuffed crust, extra toppings.

Comehappy.leave.edgy @bricklanecoffee It’s not true love until you get that restraining order.

Grey Fox @GreyFoxBlog Some people say you shouldn’t wear a button-down shirt with tie and suit.

Nonsense.

GQ Magazine @GQMagazine We got Chris Pratt drunk and told him to give us an acting lesson.

TheFashionConnector @FashConnector Happy Friday everyone! Yep we’ve definitely got that Friday feelin’ :) Why my cat is sad @MYSADCAT My cat is sad because the window cleaner is here and he is hiding in a cupboard to avoid any social awkwardness.

Stephen Fry @stephenfry Is it really Friday already? What happened to Thursday? Oh that was yesterday I suppose. Odd. It didn’t feel like a Thursday to me. Oh well.

Matt Haig @matthaig1 Imagine going round thinking you are normal. Do people actually do that?

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p ICONIC FOOTWEAR BRAND UNITED NUDE HOSTED AN EVENING WITH SOUL SINGER TERRI WALKER AT ITS FLAGSHIP STORE IN COVENT GARDEN TO CELEBRATE THE RELEASE OF HER LATEST ALBUM, “ENTITLED”. AROUND 200 GUESTS INCLUDING PRESS AND MUSICIANS SAMPLED COCKTAILS WHILE ENJOYING GOURMET LIGHT BIGHTS FROM FLAT PLANET.

p THE COUNTRY’S KEY INDUSTRY INSIDERS ATTENDED THE UK FASHION & TEXTILE AWARDS LAST MONTH TO CELEBRATE THE BIGGEST ACHIEVERS IN BRITISH TALENT. HELD AT LONDON’S TOBACCO DOCK, THE EVENT WAS HOSTED BY MODELS AMBER LE BON AND JACK GUINNESS (BOTH PICTURED ABOVE WITH GUEST OF HONOUR HRH PRINCESS ANNE).

p MANCHESTER SCHOOL OF ART’S HANNAH WALLACE, WHOSE INNOVATIVE MENSWEAR DESIGNS SAW HER SCOOP THE CREATIVE CATWALK AWARD AND MUCH-COVETED GEORGE GOLD AWARD AT THIS YEAR’S GRADUATE FASHION WEEK.

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JUNE 2015 | 47

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

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p TOM CRIDLAND LAUNCHES NEW 30-YEAR SWEATSHIRT

VIPS (AND ME) GATHER TO CELEBRATE THE UK FASHION & TEXTILE AWARDS Last month saw the Natwest UK Fashion & Textile (UKFT) Awards take place at Tobacco Dock in London’s East End, and yours truly got an invite to mix with the celebs and award winners. It was hosted by Yasmin Le Bon’s footstep-following model daughter, Amber, and model/presenter Jack Guinness. In the mix and handing out awards were Mary Queen of Shops herself Mary Portas, Sophie Ellis Bextor, George Lamb, Laura Whitmore (in fine Big Bird from Sesame Street canary yellow skirt), Lulu Kennedy, Dominic Jones, Miquita Oliver, Tallulah Harlech, Harriet Viney, Neelam Gill, Annabelle Neilson and Patrick Grant (who I didn’t have to Google). We were also in the presence of royalty, as HRH The Princess Royal, or Princess Anne to you and I, presented winners with their awards as part of her role as President of UKFT. The winners included Erdem, for the Designer Business Award and James Sugden, CEO of Johnston’s of Elgin, for the NatWest UKFT Outstanding Achievement Award. It was a very pleasant evening, with a very strange mousse starter it must be said, but it was also great to be reminded what a fantastic business we are in, and more importantly how vitally important fashion exports are to the UK economy. David Cameron, take heed.

HAIL THE 30-YEAR SWEATSHIRT Tom Cridland only founded his brand of the same name last year, following his graduation from Bristol University, and launching with a £6,000 government start-up loan. He began specialising in trousers, which is pretty rare these days, perfecting a flattering slim cut and using some daring colours. Through acquaintances in the entertainment business, and clearly some friends in high places, he can apparently count the likes of Leonardo DiCaprio, Ben Stiller, Stephen Fry, Hugh Grant, Robbie Williams and Daniel Craig amongst his customer list. Not a bad kick-off that. And now he’s delving in the world of supersustainable fashion with the launch of his 30 Year Sweatshirt. That’s right, a sweat seriously

p LAURA WHITMORE AT THE UKFT AWARDS

built to last that comes with a 30-year guarantee.

Strange but true. It is apparently a combination of craftmanship, fabric and equipment that makes the sweatshirt so well made. Says Cridland, “Many of today’s big fashion brands plan for the clothing they make to wear out and be unusable after a year or two. This is done simply so the customer has to return to buy more. It’s called built-in obsolescence and it’s created a cycle of consumption and waste that has to change. We hope we can lead an industry trend towards more sustainability in fashion with The 30 Year Sweatshirt. The sweat comes in classic navy, dove white, electric blue, grey and chilli red. It’s pretty tasty too and, for £55, a 10-year guarantee would have been more than acceptable.

BACK TO BASICS For those of you who remember, RedDot (20002010) and its quirky, iconic – and often ripped off – trompe l’oeil prints or, for those who know the luxury underwear and loungewear brand Under, Kieron Hurley will be no stranger. Maybe even more so if you remember Acid Jazz records, which he co-founded in the late 80s – managing the

p KIERON HURLEY’S NEW VENTURE, LESBASICS

career of The Brand New Heavies and launching the career of Jamiroquai. Not to mention launching Good Sounds, a joint venture with Sony Music after that, and before he swapped tunes for togs. Well, now he’s up to something else, and he’s called it LesBasics. He says, “For a while I’d been struggling to find quality sensibly priced and premium basics with a little something extra about them to justify adding to my already oversized collection of tees, sweats and the like.

It got me thinking that if I’m having this problem, maybe some others are, too, and there might be an opportunity to do something interesting.”

As the name suggests, it’s basics – tees, sweats, track jackets and sweat pants - and he opens the books, via sales agency Macandi, to buyers for the first time this month. But why LesBasics? “I spent some time recuperating from open heart surgery in France, and it was about this time that I had the idea, so a ‘Franglais’ brand name seemed appropriate.” Fair enough! The not so basic basics, aim to elevate the humble everyday staple to garments of distinction and desirability. Hurley is an ideas man who doesn’t skimp on quality, and now recovered from his operation ordeal we wish him well and all the best with this new project.

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LAST ORDERS WITH...

ROSS KEIR SIMMONS Launching his own successful menswear agency, Doghouse Studios, before the age of 30, with a CV including roles at denim giants such as Evisu and Diesel, Ross Keir Simmons is a name to keep an eye on this coming season. Victoria Jackson caught up with Simmons to discover his biggest challenge to date, drawing style influences from Yohji Yamamoto through to Marilyn Manson.

— DOB: 30/10/1987 Place of birth: Sutton Coldfield Lives now: Islington Instagram: @doghousestudios Website: www.doghouse-studios.com

When did you launch Doghouse Studios, and why?

I started Doghouse Studios in September 2014 and launched my first season (a/w 15) at the end of January. The reason for setting up Doghouse is that I’ve always wanted to have my own agency where I get to choose the brands, which can be from anywhere around the world. I also work closely with brands on product development and creative direction – which you can’t always achieve working for a corporate company. So it was about getting an element of control back in my life as well as creative satisfaction.

What’s the ethos behind the agency?

I’m looking to find exciting brands and bring them to the market, whether it be tailoring, streetwear or denim, commercial or high end – I want the agency to be a menswear lifestyle that clients can depend on, the quality is there and we also have some fun along the way. Currently, I look after Been Trill, Hero’s Heroine, Non Conformist, House of Nines and Simon and Mary. There are so many great agencies that are well known such as Brand Progression and A Number of Names.

I would love Doghouse to be up there one day.

What menswear path had you always wanted to take?

Originally I wanted to get into film direction as that is a massive passion. However, once I started working for Urban Outfitters in Birmingham, I became hooked on product. I loved learning about all aspects of the industry. Consumer shopping habits, product development, buying etc. The rest is history.

Are you taking part in any trade fairs around Europe this season?

I’ll be going to Capsule in Paris, Seek in Berlin, and of course Jacket Required in London. I think these are the standout shows, even on a global scale.

What’s the biggest challenge you’ve faced since launching the agency?

I’d say introducing new brands to the market. I know retail can be tough, and sometimes the idea of bringing something new on board is a daunting concept. However, I really believe you need to keep it fresh and try new things from season to season to keep the customer engaged.

And your biggest achievement?

I guess it would be the support I have received from everybody. Taking the leap from working for a brand to being my own boss and running an agency was a scary concept, but everyone has made the transition relatively smooth. From my web designer to the buyers believing in my brands – everyone has got behind Doghouse Studios, and I really can’t say thank you enough.

How would you describe your personal style?

I‘ve always been a sucker for rock ’n’ roll, so mostly black, skinny jeans and a biker jacket. I take inspiration from all kinds of people, from Yohji Yamamoto to Marilyn Manson. At the moment I think Jerry Lorenzo from Fear of God LA dresses is great – a mix of rock ’n’ roll meets street.

What is your most treasured item of clothing?

My hats. I think I have a hat on around 90 per cent of the time. You need to have a solid hat. I’ve also brought a new hat brand on board called Simon and Mary, from South Africa.

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Favourite film: Lethal Weapon 1.

— Favourite place on earth: London.

— Biggest vice: Whiskey.

— What’s for breakfast?

A large cup of Yorkshire Gold.

—

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