WWB MAGAZINE JUNE ISSUE 247

JUNE 2015, ISSUE 247 £6.95 — WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK WOMENSWEAR BUYER

— PUPPY LOVE Footwear label Hush Puppies shares its growth plans —

— SHOW BUSINESS The key exhibitions not to miss for s/s 16 —

— FASHION FORWARD TCA Showroom’s recipe for success —

— LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW The brands not to miss at this season’s edition —

APT COLLECTIONS LTD. | 0044 207 580 3202

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CONTENTS —

JUNE 2015

REGULARS

FEATURES

FASHION

5 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 8 NEWS — 12 KEEP FIGHTING FOR BRITISH HIGH STREET Bira’s High Street Conference summary — 16 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 18 TALKING POINT — 46 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 50 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With Bernshaw’s Sara Brett —

20 Q&A With Hush Puppies brand director Francois Lepeltier — 32 REACHING FOR THE TOP TCA Showroom’s rapid growth — 36 EXHIBITION CALENDAR The shows not to miss for s/s 16 — 41 PREMIUM BERLIN A preview of next month’s show — 43 PANORAMA BERLIN WWB speaks to the show’s CEO, Joerg Wichmann —

26 STYLE FILE — 28 FASHION RADAR — 44 THE LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW A look at the hottest swimwear styles ahead of next month’s event

COVER: Girls on Film

COMMENT —

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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

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RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB.

SHE MAY BE A RATHER CONTROVERSIAL “RETAIL GURU” BUT, WHEN IT COMES TO THE FUTURE OF THE BRITISH HIGH STREET, MARY PORTAS CERTAINLY DOES NOT LACK IN IDEAS OR PASSION. — Portas was one of the keynote speakers at this year’s High Street Conference hosted by industry body Bira, and maintained a positive and optimistic outlook for the future, though she warned that new approaches and a complete rethink is needed to revitalise our town centres.

Portas reminded the audience that high streets are not about business, but about community, and that it’s this community spirit that needs to be tapped into again to make high streets destinations.

“We have seen a shift in shopping habits because of the recession and the surge in internet shopping,” she said. “But that has made people realise the importance of the high street because it’s not about business, it’s about communities; it’s passing someone you know on the street and interacting with those around you. But we need to educate councils across the country about regeneration because the high street won’t look after itself like it used to. Read our full report on the Conference and Portas’ vision on page 12.

Elsewhere, a month or so after the election, the industry has widely welcomed a new, all-conservative government (see our news report on page 8), with many business owners praising the stability and continuity the old/ new administration brings. The positive mood, however, will only last and be meaningful if the Tories deliver on their many promises to

Heart of Fashion

business and industry, most importantly the much awaited and needed review of business rates.

In this issue we are kicking off s/s 16 with a look ahead at the key shows of the season. I say it every time, but I just can’t believe that another buying period is around the corner, time just flies too fast. However – after having missed the last two seasons due to maternity leave – I am looking forward to meeting many of you at the shows and reconnecting properly with brands and retailers and, of course, seeing the many wonderful collections out there. Bring on spring/summer.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

9-11 August 2015 Moda, NEC Birmingham Register for your free ticket at moda-uk.co.uk

NEWS —

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INDIES WELCOME ELECTION RESULT In the wake of the General Election result last month, the business sector calls upon David Cameron to keep his promises.

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The independent sector reacted positively to the outcome of last month’s election, following the news that the Conservative party secured an overall majority of 331 seats.

For the business sector, the Conservative manifesto has been welcomed across the trade as pledges of support for commerce and industry promise a brighter future for business owners. Specifically, the party has promised a review of business rates by the end of the year to ensure that “from 2017 they properly reflect the structure of our modern economy” and the creation of three million apprenticeships by the end of 2020.

The manifesto also promises to increase spending power through the introduction of 30 hours’ free childcare for working parents, and a tax-free minimum wage for the lowest earners.

“This is definitely the right result for business,” says Deryane Tadd, owner of independent womenswear boutique The Dressing Room in St Albans, Hertfordshire.

“We are seeing good growth in the store at the moment and the economy is getting stronger. The Conservatives have been a pro-business party over the past five years and we are looking for more of the same.”

Fellow independent retailer Caroline Carder agrees that the private sector will benefit from the continuation of a Conservative government. “This is the right result for small business and it’s the result we wanted to see,” says the co-owner of family footwear specialist Robert Carder Shoes in

Godalming, Surrey. “The business has been better under a Conservative government, and any further support for small business will be warmly welcomed,” she continues. “It’s not a level field at the moment; we are based in an affluent area and yet we have charity shops on either side of us because rents are so high. Add the competition from the internet into the equation and trading is hard. We do well, but we work at it – and any help from the government can only be a good thing.”

However, warning that the government must now build on and nurture the buoyant mood in the business community in order to secure sustained growth comes from analyst and accountant firm BDO LLP. It has warned that sustained growth depends on companies converting their confidence into the capital expenditure needed to boost productivity. Investment in skills and equipment, it suggests, could help to tackle Britain’s stagnant productivity levels, boosting business output and, ultimately, growth.

“Ahead of the 2010 election, our data showed high levels of UK business confidence, much like this time around,” says BDO LLP partner, Peter Hemington.

“However, this fell away not long after the new government formed. To avoid this happening again, the new Conservative government needs to put firm actions in place to help UK businesses thrive.

“It is encouraging to see that businesses are feeling optimistic about the coming

“It is encouraging to see that business are feeling optimistic about the coming months in the hands of a new government, but the confidence that counts is the confidence that converts into businesses actually investing”

months in the hands of a new government, but the confidence that counts is the confidence that converts into businesses actually investing,” he continues. “The government must help UK businesses with this by putting tangible measures in place that will encourage businesses to invest in training or research, technology and equipment to help improve productivity.

“The government also has the opportunity to boost future economic growth by investing judiciously in our country’s infrastructure, I hope that they will take it,” adds Hemington.

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NEWS —

JUNE 2015

FARFETCH BUYS LONDON INDIE BROWNS E-commerce platform Farfetch has acquired London boutique Browns for an undisclosed sum as part of its omni-channel strategy.

The acquisition is part of a long-term plan to develop a global technology platform and builds on Brown’s 45-year heritage as one of London’s most high-profile luxury indies, with the aim to evolve the Browns brand both offline and online through a mix of technology and in-store experience.

Former Net-a-porter fashion director Holli Rogers will join the business as CEO of Browns, while Joan Burstein, who founded Browns with her husband Sydney in 1970, will become honorary chairman.

The Browns brand and business will run independently to the Farfetch operation.

Farfetch has created a new business unit, Store of the Future, which will be led by Sandrine Devaux as managing director. The new team will develop and test new innovations in retail technology and omni-channel at Browns before rolling them out across the Farfetch community of 300 boutiques.

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GHOST REVAMPS ITS ONLINE PRESENCE Iconic British womenswear brand Ghost has re-launched its website, www.ghost.co.uk, following the recent reopening of its flagship store in London.

The new site is fully responsive and sells the label’s recently launched s/s 15 collection, enabling a seamless online shopping experience. Designed featuring pastel hues and romantic photography, the site closely reflects the aesthetic of Ghost recently refurbished King’s Road store and captures the new, modern direction of the brand.

The site also hosts exclusive content, including footage from behind the scenes at the s/s 15 Mexico shoot, articles from the team and guest contributors on the Ghost Journal, as well as direct links to all social media channels. Ghost’s famous dyeing process is also showcased, with video content revealing the high-quality viscose and delicate dyeing that the brand is renowned for.

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LILY ALLEN TO FRONT VERO MODA Contemporary womenswear brand Vero Moda has teamed up with singer Lily Allen as part of a year-long collaboration. The label – which is part of Danish fashion house Bestseller – will unveil its debut collection fronted by the star this August across all of its brand platforms.

— NEW BRANDS DEBUT AT MODA Moda Woman has confirmed further new signings this season, strengthening its position as the essential trade platform for both international and homegrown brands. Introducing a vintage-inspired and glamorous collection for spring, Hell Bunny makes its show debut this August with an eclectic range targeting a new, wider demographic. Moda Woman also welcomes new labels from further afield this season, diversifying its international offer of global brands. Canada in particular is in the spotlight, with new arrivals Cartise and Spanner making their debut.

— HONEYZ LAUNCHES WHOLESALE WEBSITE Glasgow fashion brand Honeyz.com has launched a wholesale website, www.honeyzwholesale.com, as part of its expansion plans, targeting independent retailers across the UK. The move follows in the footsteps of the brand’s recent franchise scheme launch, which was set up in April.

— H&M ANNOUNCES BALMAIN COLLABORATION Swedish young fashion chain H&M has announced its latest designer collaboration with Parisian fashion house Balmain.

The collection will go on sale on 5 November and will be available in 250 stores worldwide and online, featuring clothing and accessories for women and men. Founded in 1945, Balmain has grown into a global pop-culture phenomenon under the creative directorship of Olivier Rousteing.

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NEWS —

JUNE 2015

SCOOP LONDON AND LFW COLLABORATE Following the announcement earlier this year of the launch of Scoop London, a brand new edition of Scoop taking place during September’s London Fashion Week (LFW), the organisers of both events will make it as easy as possible for buyers to get the most out of their visit to the capital.

With LFW taking up residence at its new home of Brewer Street Car Park in the heart of Soho on 18-22 September, and Scoop London running at the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea on 20-22 September, organisers will be working together on transport and fast-track entry to both events.

All accredited buyers registered for Scoop London and for the established August edition of Scoop will be approved for entry to the Designer Showrooms of LFW. Buyers can simply show their Scoop badge and a business card at the entrance desk to be fast-tracked into the Designer Showrooms of LFW. Likewise, all LFW’s accredited buyers can automatically gain fast-track entry into the brand new Scoop London show.

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NEW LOOK SOLD FOR £780M South African private-equity group Brait, owned by entrepreneur Christo Wiese, has bought 90 per cent of New Look in a £780m deal, which sets the enterprise value of the UK high street chain at £1.9bn.

The family of New Look founder Tom Singh will reacquire the remaining 10 per cent.

Anders Kristiansen, New Look’s CEO; Mike Iddon, CFO; and Roger Wightman, CCO, will remain with the company.

New Look, which operates more than 800 stores in 21 countries – 569 of which are in the UK – has net financial debt of £1bn, with Brait set to review financing alternatives in order to optimise the capital structure. In a statement, Brait revealed its interest in New Look is based on factors such as the company’s double-digit EBITDA growth in recent years, its established footprint in the higher growth value segment, strong growth prospects in France, Germany, Poland and China, which is a priority market, as well as a highly developed multi-channel offering via traditional stores and a fast growing e-commerce platform.

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EDWARDS OF MANCHESTER CLOSES DOORS Iconic shoe store Edwards of Manchester has ceased trading.

The unit, which is situated within Manchester’s Barton Arcade, fronts onto Deansgate and is the oldest independent shoe shop outside of London. Established in 1830, the store is renowned for its high quality men’s footwear, but also has an established women’s offer including brands such as Caprice and Van Dal. Attempts to contact owner Steve Fitzsimmons – who has been the proprietor of the store since 2008 – were unsuccessful at the time of going to press.

— LITTLEWOODS CEASES PRINTED CATALOGUE Littlewoods customers will no longer receive a printed catalogue after owner Shop Direct announced it is halting its printed product. The retailer – which also owns Very.co.uk – will now operate exclusively online in a move that reflects its consumers’ changing habits. The catalogue has been printed and distributed for over 80 years, although its circulation has diminished significantly in recent seasons.

Having once mailed out over 25 million copies, Shop Direct printed just 300,000 versions of its last catalogue – down from five million five years ago.

— M&S TO SELL BRANDED TRAINERS High-street retailer M&S will sell a selection of branded trainers for men and women in a bid to strengthen its position as a British retailer. The store – which has previously only sold its own label – has entered into collaboration with British footwear manufacturer Walsh, a Bolton operation that manufactures its goods in the UK. The debut collection comprises eight styles – four for men and four for women – and will retail at £110 as of autumn. The range will be sold under the M&S Best of British range; a sub-label introduced as part of a three-year collaboration with the British Fashion Council to bring British manufacture to the UK high street.

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NEWS —

JUNE 2015

RE-LAUNCH FOR STYLE.COM Condé Nast is to launch a global e-commerce business this autumn, with the main objective to sell merchandise to consumers and readers of its magazines.

The mass-media company will target products at readers of its online and print publications including Vogue, Vanity Fair and GQ. The e-commerce venture will be branded Style.com, currently used by a fashion news website also owned by the company.

Users will be able to order merchandise from magazine-branded websites and apps, as well as the Style.com website itself. Readers will also be able to scan many of the images appearing in the print magazines. Style.com is expected to begin by offering 100-200 brands, with the number growing as the business expands in sales and geographical market reach. While owned by Condé Nast, Style.com will operate as a standalone unit under the joint supervision of the US and International divisions of the global media company. Debuting in the UK, the website will eventually be adapted to other markets around the world.

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THE HUB RELOCATES TO SHANGHAI Fashion trade show The HUB will relocate to Shanghai this season in a move that will see the show position itself alongside the dateline of Shanghai Fashion Week.

The HUB – which has hosted four successful events in Hong Kong since its launch in August 2013 – will make its debut in mainland China with a carefully curated showcase of around 40 international brands.

“From the outset two years ago, we knew that at some point we would take The HUB to mainland China and now is the right time,” says co-founder Richard Hobbs.

“There are still hurdles when it comes to doing business in China but we are here to help and advise and, as of this month, China will be reducing import tariffs on a number of clothing and footwear categories which will only make it easier for brands to import and to find buyers and partners.”

The HUB will take place at Central Studios in Xintiandi, Shanghai, on 13-15 October. Brands confirmed include Boy London, Rack & Ruin, Swedish label Dienastie, Swims of Norway, Flying Zachinnis and US brand Juma.

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OUT OF XILE RESTRUCTURES FOR S/S 16 UK womenswear label Out of Xile is relaunching for s/s 16 with a more streamlined range and contemporary look.

The repositioning of the label is a departure from the structure and rigidity of a co-ordinated collection and will introduce a more interchangeable and flexible range of separates with a younger style.

The collection will be tighter and more focused, reducing the range to 40 pieces which can be worn to create a multitude of looks, from a neat, crisp and youthful day style to effortless and elegant Mother of the Bride outfits. The focus will be on standalone pieces, with the brand adapting a more understated and clean, while versatile look instead of the current bohemian inspired influences. The new direction is in reaction to price ceiling changes in the market and the different way in which women are dressing today.

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ALVANON PRESIDENT JOINS IAF BOARD Alvanon president Ed Gribbin has been named on the board of directors of the International Apparel Federation (IAF). The announcement was made at the recent IAF board meeting in Frankfurt, Germany, by IAF president Rahul Mehta. The IAF is the world’s leading federation for apparel manufacturers, their associations, apparel retailers and the supporting industry. Members include associations from nearly 40 countries, representing over 150,000 companies that provide products and services to the apparel industry.

— TOMS OPENS FIRST UK STORE US footwear label Toms has opened its first store in the UK, retailing its full range of men’s, women’s and children’s footwear, as well as its newly launched eyewear collection. The brand – founded on a one-for-one policy, which sees a pair of shoes donated to a child in a developing country for every pair sold – has also introduced a community element into the store, offering free Wi-Fi and a café for those in the local area. The shop is located on London’s Carnaby Street and is the brand’s second European store, building on the success of Toms’ flagship outlet in Amsterdam which opened in spring last year.

— INDIA INTERNATIONAL GARMENT FAIR RETURNS The 55th edition of India International Garment Fair is set to take place on 13-15 July at Pragati Maidan in New Delhi, India. The event will showcase the most up-to-date fashion trends by the Indian apparel industry, with 400 of the country’s top garment manufacturers displaying their latest collections for s/s 16. The fair features womenswear, menswear, kidswear and accessories, as well as showcasing century old, hand-carved wood block print techniques, hand-printed fabrics, embroidery and other fabrics. To register visit www.indiaapparelfair.com.

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REPORT —

JUNE 2015

KEEP FIGHTING FOR BRITISH HIGH STREET Retail guru Mary Portas was among the key speakers at this year’s Bira High Street Conference, urging the industry to maintain the communal value of town centres.

Christina Williams sums up Portas’ vision for a new high street of the future.

— Retail guru Mary Portas took to the floor at this year’s Bira High Street Conference, urging retailers to stay smart in their fight for their local high street. The industry expert – who has previously petitioned the government to take action to support the nation’s small businesses – was the keynote speaker at the annual British Independent Retailers Association Conference, which took place in Warwick last month.

“We have seen a shift in shopping habits because of the recession and the surge in Internet shopping,” said Portas, who was interviewed by Alexis Conran – actor, stage magician and former star of BBC3 reality show The Real Hustle. “But that has made people realise the importance of the high street because it’s not about business, it’s about communities; it’s passing someone you know on the street and interacting with those around you. We can’t, however, have a nostalgic view of the high street; we need to discover what is relevant now and, as a country of creatives – we need to craft a new high street that works.”

Portas went on to detail the success stories of the nation’s 450 town teams, which have trialled different approaches to driving footfall back to the high street. Braintree in Essex, for example, welcomed 50,000 new cars into the town when it trialled free town-centre parking, while the South Yorkshire town of Rotherham saw an organically crafted high street emerge from its council’s policy of buying empty units and renting them out to businesses for which there was a perceived need in the centre. “I do have faith in people,” said Portas, when asked if she was optimistic about the future of the British high street. “But we need to educate councils across the country about regeneration because the high street won’t look after itself like it used to.”

Portas suggested adopting the approach of large-scale developers that secure anchor stores – such as M&S and Debenhams – before building shopping malls across the country. “A developer wouldn’t build an empty mall and expect businesses to flock to it,” she said.

“We need to approach the issue of the high street in a similar way to create a destination, and it may be something more creative than a shop – like a crèche, for example.”

The conference ended with questions from the floor, one of which originated from a shopkeeper in Colchester, Essex, who described her store as a mid to premium level womenswear retailer.

Having asked about the direction of the contemporary fashion consumer, Portas responded that fashion retail relied heavily on instinct, and that fashion retailers could maintain their market share through product knowledge and advice.

“There’s the value retailer like Primark, there are the Internet giants like Asos, and there’s the independent, which basically presents an edit of fashion brands,” she said. “If you can sell confidence to women, guide them and advise them on their choices, then that is your place in the market which will ensure you survive.”

Bira also detailed its forthcoming projects at the conference, detailing a 10-point plan to reform business rates. Basing its recommendations to the Treasury on new research that exposes how small shops are disadvantaged, Bira’s CEO, Alan Hawkins, argued for sweeping changes to the system, taking the majority of properties permanently out of paying the tax. The Association will make its case directly to government as part of the business rates review currently under way. Copies of the reform plan are available on request from Bira.

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Heart of Fashion

Woman Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories Footwear Gent

9-11 August 2015 Moda, NEC Birmingham Apply to exhibit at moda-uk.co.uk

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PROMOTION —

JUNE 2015

A NEW CHAPTER FOR APT Fashion agency Apt… Collections has been at the forefront of fashion wholesale for the best part of two decades, supplwying high-profile indies as well as key department stores and multiples in the UK and Ireland with an exquisite selection of international labels. The agency has built a reputation for always keeping its finger on the pulse, and not to be afraid of reinvention, as well as bringing exciting new collections to the country. For s/s 16 this is no different - the agency is opening a new chapter, having expanded its portfolio of brands with three new additions which are set to combine original and high-quality design with commerciality and bags of appeal.

For owners Nigel and Claudia Hughes it’s about bringing newness to the market and providing buyers with commercial collections that will appeal to the modern woman. “We appreciate how challenging the industry has become and how this has affected the role of buyers and business owners, but also us as agents. We took a long hard look at the market and what it’s lacking and what it’s looking for, and it was clear to us that buyers – as much as the consumers - are no longer happy to just stick to what they know. Customers want to be excited by newness and fresh product and by collections and designs that have got that illusive ‘something different’,” says Nigel. “We realised that, as an agency, we, too, had to embrace this, so for s/s 16 we have shaken things up a bit and are introducing a number of new labels which deliver exactly that freshness and newness and commerciality that the industry is looking for.”

Another new addition from the parent company behind Claudia Sträter is Expresso. Imagine the clever style positioning and price architecture of the extremely successful retail brand Mint Velvet and put it into a wholesale arena, and you get the Expresso ethos and USP in a nutshell. Also based in Holland, this retail orientated company has over 1600 wholesale and retail partner stockists globally and is now launching for the first time to the UK. With a strong fashion and lifestyle concept and the latest visual marketing, Expresso has every conceivable base covered and can easily compete with high street chains such as Zara, Jigsaw and Mint Velvet.

For more information on the brand, visit www.expresso.nl

Canadian label Picadilly is wonderfully colourful and is build around related separates or individual items in exclusive prints and plains. The collection includes goanywhere-dresses with and without sleeves with different cover-ups, tops, tunics and mix and match outfits. With an average wholesale price point of £35, Picadilly is poised to be the commercial hit for the coming summer. In addition, the brand will be launching a brand new, dedicated dress collection from the award winning Canadian fashion designer and globally acclaimed Lucien Matis for s/s 16, tapping into this hugely successful product category. This family-run business also comes with highly professional back-up and sales support, which has become synonymous with Canadian brands.

For more information visit www.picadillyfashions.com

ALL IMAGES ARE FROM S/S15 COLLECTIONS

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Apt… Collections is also very happy to announce the return of popular Dutch label Claudia Sträter, which is relaunching into the UK for s/s 16. Apt has already a long-standing relationship with the brand, having successfully represented the label for 14 years until the company decided to withdraw from all export markets six years ago to restructure the business internally. The result is not only a return to the UK and Irish markets, but also a more focused, streamlined and even stronger collection that is sure to set retailers’ hearts racing. With a retail concept at heart, Claudia Sträter is ideally suited to stores who are looking to bring a quality sophisticated headline brand into their business to sit alongside collections such as Marc Cain or Luisa Cerano.

With its unique handwriting, quality and impeccable fit, the brand offers modern up-to-date dressing in well made, beautiful fabrics – it’s a contemporary lifestyle look with a strong brand identity and an already very loyal following.

The collection also includes the Maura by Claudia Sträter outerwear range.

For more information visit www.claudiastrater.com

German brand Gelco has been a key brand on both a retail and wholesale level in the UK. This highly commercial lifestyle collection is well made and focused on excellent fit while offering reliable quality season after season.

For s/s 16 the brand is building on its successful growth in the UK and delivers another commercially strong and saleable collection with a focus on outerwear as well as coordinated styles which combine modern design to suit a wide variety of customers.

For more information visit www.gelco.de

All brands will be shown from the agency’s two London showrooms this season. For showing times and to arrange an appointment please call 020 7580 3202 or email melanie@aptcollections.ltd.uk / nigel@aptcollections.ltd.uk

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PEOPLE —

JUNE 2015

BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —

INDUSTRY GATHERS FOR UKFT AWARDS The country’s key industry insiders attended the UK Fashion & Textile (UKFT) Awards last month to celebrate the biggest achievers in British talent, with over 600 entries across the 10 categories. Held at London’s Tobacco Dock, the event was hosted by models Amber Le Bon and Jack Guinness (both pictured), and featured an esteemed judging panel including Patrick Grant, Colin McDowell, Bel Jacobs and Melanie Rickey. Winners on the night included Teatum Jones, which was awarded the Womenswear accolade. British accessory label Alice Made This, meanwhile, received the UKFT Rise Newcomer Award.

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PANACHE LAUNCHES ROLE MODEL CAMPAIGN Lingerie brand Panache has launched a new campaign, celebrating six female “role models” – each chosen for their individual strengths, achievements and contributions to society, as well as their healthy approach to body image.

Featuring in the campaign are model Marquita Pring (pictured), sports therapist Amy Hughes, British T34 Paralympic wheelchair racer Hannah Cockcroft, senior nurse Rachel Elliott, British singer Mica Paris and blood and organ donation campaigner Martyna Kaczmarek.

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Uttam and Clare Nepal, founders of young fashion label Yumi, have set up the Yumi Nepal Earthquake Appeal, which aims to raise £150,000 to provide essential relief for victims of the recent earthquakes in Nepal.

To donate, please visit www.everyclick. com/yumi-nepalearthquake-appeal/ ec16053/info.

A NEW ROUTE FOR DENTS

A street in the Wiltshire town of Warminster has been named after heritage glove brand Dents. Glovers Lane is a new route linking the area’s main business park and the town’s centre and railway station. The name recognises Dents’ long history in the town and its contribution towards manufacturing and employment in the region. “This is a wonderful recognition from Wiltshire Council and is a real tribute to the talented designers and the skilled leather cutters and hand sewers who have worked so hard here over the decades,” says Dents chief executive Deborah Moore (pictured above with Warminster Town Council’s Heather Abernethie).

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BOB NORTH DEBUTS IN PRESTON Exhibitors gathered in Preston, Lancashire, last month to showcase the best in British design and manufacturing at Best of Britannia (BOB) North.

Brands showcased products from bespoke furniture to bags made from recycled factory materials. And fashion students (pictured) from the University of Central Lancashire showed off their creative talents in a design exhibit, entitled Fashion Kitchen. The show’s first Northern edition is expected to be rolled out next year to other areas of the country, with an aim to show brands local to each chosen location.

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NOW

TWO

SCOOP

SHOWS

EACH SCOOP

2 - 4 AUGUST 2015 Contemporar y Designer Show

SEASON LONDON

20 - 22 SEPTEMBER 2015 Designer Collections Show

S A A T C H I G A L L E R Y, L O N D O N Find out more at scoop-international.com Š Maria Rivans, Carina, Limited edition print available at saatchistore.com

OPINION —

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TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues that affect womenswear.

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STANDING STILL IS NOT AN OPTION

KEEPING AND NURTURING LOCAL TALENT

Fashion is all about reinvention, just as life continually shows us we have to move on, no matter what is thrown at us. Continually moving forward can present endless challenges, especially when we latch onto phrases like “comfort zone” and “I wore that the first time round”.

Regeneration is the lifeblood of Lambert’s Yard the store and our affiliated initiatives. A driving force behind opening Lambert’s Yard was to allow the public access to one of the oldest groups of buildings in Leeds city centre after years of dereliction.

However, as they say, time stops for no man, and staying put isn’t an option either, therefore just as the seasons come and go, moving forward and embracing change surely is the only option!

This season in particular is a good example of exactly the shift we’re seeing and, to some extent, embracing in our stores. For me, it’s an easy one because in my heart I believe I’m a suppressed hippy with my love of the entire boho trend (being a child of the 70s) and would wear anything with tassels or fringes. However, I realise it’s not for everyone, and tempering my desire to buy in depth had to be curbed.

On the other hand, as we have such a diverse customer base and ticking all the boxes from season to season is full of endless challenges and searching to bring the right brands and style mix together. That said, it’s good to know some timeless pieces never go amiss. Keeping our “bestsellers” in stock, too, and discovering new suppliers that provide ready stock are also in short supply, although thankfully wholesale websites such as Yourbrandspace, which is launching its stock buying option, no doubt save me time and shoe leather.

There are many aspects of the business that are a driving force and inspiration is all around us, if we choose to look closely, however keeping on top of those options on a day to day basis does present its challenges. Just like nothing great ever came from standing still, my challenge this season has certainly been to move on and to try a new product and price mix that not only keeps us relevant, but keeps my customers on their toes and hungry for our new deliveries, too.

Just one thing, though, has anyone seen my phone, glasses and keys (my new mantra)? Because without these none of the above would make it to the starting block...

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Leeds and Yorkshire itself was renowned for textile manufacturing, indeed our CEO’s family has worked with cloth for generations, so this is an industry we are dedicated to reviving in the region. In 2013, we joined forces with Leeds City Council to bring the Centre for Fashion Enterprise to Leeds, hosting their New Market Entry Programme and Pioneer Programme.

Having connected with designers in the area through these programmes and being approached by several others, a noticeable trend emerged of young designers educated in Yorkshire seeking opportunities in Leeds and the north then moving, en masse, to London to find work. We want to help to reverse this trend or at least, help to create jobs in the design and textile manufacturing industry.

Working in collaboration with Leeds City Council, The Leeds Fashion Initiative has been formed. This programme will help to provide subsidised studio space, business support and tuition for those starting or developing their business in Leeds. We will, of course, continue to work with the Centre for Fashion Enterprise to increase the availability of courses in Leeds.

In development we have a multi-vendor “market-place” style e-commerce platform as it will enable us to help bring smaller British and international brands to the forefront, allowing them to develop through their affiliation with Lambert’s Yard and, in time, will hopefully open up a more global conversation on the future of e-tail and the need to create a more customisable and interactive online shopping experience.

This fine balancing act between supporting fledging niche brands alongside more established brands, regenerating the region’s textile industry and working with educational bodies while retaining a strong commercial edge is our point of difference and one that could expand the UK fashion industry if we achieve what we have set out to.

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Pamela Shiffer, owner, Pamela Shiffer, London

Rosie Lynes, womenswear buyer, Lambert’s Yard, Leeds

CALALUNA is a brand produced and distributed by Laura Gigliotti S.r.l, Italy www.calaluna.it

UK agent: JSLevy Tel: 03333 55 0965 / 07831 149428 Email: info@jslevy.co.uk www.jslevy.co.uk

See us at CPD Dusseldorf 24-27 July, FH2 Room B107 and Moda UK, 9-11 August 2015, NEC Birmingham, Stand I40

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INTERVIEW —

JUNE 2015

Q&A

François Lepeltier Brand director, Hush Puppies — AS ICONIC FOOTWEAR BRAND HUSH PUPPIES MAKES A RETURN TO MODA FOOTWEAR THIS SEASON, BRAND DIRECTOR FRANÇOIS LEPELTIER REVEALS ALL ABOUT THE LABEL’S NEW DIRECTION FOR SPRING. —

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INTERVIEW —

JUNE 2015

Christina Williams: You’re making a welcome return to Moda Footwear this season – what prompted the decision to focus on UK wholesale for spring?

François Lepeltier: We’re delighted to be returning to Moda for s/s 16. The show has come a long way, and it will be a great opportunity to share the new collections with existing and potential customers. We can’t wait to launch the new lines and to reveal our s/s 16 campaign, which is all about smiling at life and sharing the fun, light-hearted spirit of the brand. The Hush Puppies product and marketing have really evolved, so we’ll be maximising the potential of the brand over the coming seasons and making more people smile.

CW: What can womenswear buyers expect to see within the latest collection?

FL: All of our favourites are there, including our Ceil Mocs; a range of vibrant, flat pumps with superior comfort from our trademarked HPO2Flex®, and our classic Vivianna boot, which is a statement Hush Puppies style with antiquated leather uppers.

There are new additions as well, for example the Piper is a great new flat pump with unlined suede uppers for a relaxed fit. We will also be introducing Jade, a gorgeous soft leather flat sandals programme.

CW: How does the brand evolve to remain contemporary without alienating its loyal consumers?

FL: We have a great team of designers who take inspiration from seasonal trends to evolve Hush Puppies collections each season, staying close to our consumers to remain relevant. Each season we reinvent classic Hush Puppies styles in new prints and colourways and introduce new silhouettes to keep our consumers interested. Customers are extremely loyal to Hush Puppies and we tend to find that they grow with the brand.

CW: Would you say the brand has evolved into a lifestyle concept?

FL: It’s certainly true that we are not interested in fashion or fads; status or statements, because we believe that true style comes from within. We are welcoming to all and exclusive to none; we’re the go-to footwear brand that delivers the right mix of timeless style and dependable comfort. In that respect, I think our consumers do live and love the Hush Puppies lifestyle because they’re confident in their own style and pride themselves on appreciating timeless classic design balanced with on-trend.

CW: How have you captured that essence in your forthcoming spring campaign?

FL: We can’t wait to reveal our new campaign, inspired by the moments in

“It’s certainly true that we are not interested in fashion or fads; status or statements, because we believe that true style comes from within”

life that make us smile. We have such a compelling brand story to tell, and social media is our stage to share it and really engage with the Hush Puppies consumer.

CW: The brand has certainly come a long way in 57 years – can you tell us about the heritage behind the Hush Puppies concept?

FL: The brand was established in 1958, in Michigan, USA, and it’s fair to say that Hush Puppies invented casual footwear. Wolverine Worldwide – the parent company of Hush Puppies and now the parent company of 15 lifestyle, heritage and performance brands – had been working to develop a practical method for tanning pigskin for the US military. Pigskin is one of the most durable leathers used for gloves and other protective materials, and our company chairman Victor Krause had the idea to make shoes with this material, kindling a fashion revolution in post-war American suburbia and launching a global concept which is still growing today.

Since 1958, we’ve been leading this casual lifestyle revolution, helping people to embrace everyday comfort in style. Today, we aim to inspire people to be themselves because we believe that, when people feel great, they look great – and that’s the key to expressing your most genuine self. People have always been drawn to Hush Puppies for our stylish design and exceptional comfort. Our basset hound symbolises the kind of light-hearted spirit we have and hope to ignite in others – cheerful, curious to explore and always up for making a new friend.

CW: When did the brand establish a business model in the UK? FL: The label has been in the UK since 1959, and has over 300 stockists in Great Britain alone. We have a presence in 160 countries across the world and the shoes are manufactured all over the globe, using traditional techniques that have evolved over time to ensure that we maintain the quality for which we are renowned. We have just launched a fantastic new retail concept internationally, but it has not yet reached the UK.

CW: You have 750 stores around the world in addition to your wholesale operation; what is your view when it comes to selling footwear online?

FL: We recognise that online is growing and that our consumers want to be able to shop anywhere, anytime, so we really value our online business. While it’s currently relatively small, our online business is definitely growing, and Hush Puppies will continue to grow as a multi-channel brand worldwide.

CW: When did you come on board, and how are you personally shaping the brand for its next era of development?

FL: I began looking after Hush Puppies two years ago, although I have been with Wolverine for nine years. I started my career at Rossignol Ski Company in the US where I headed up the inline skate business for North America, before moving on to Bell Sports in London as European trade marketing manager, looking after the Bell and Giro helmet brands.

I then made the move into lifestyle, first managing the international business for IKKS Shoes based in France, before joining Wolverine Worldwide and moving back to London to look after the third-party distributor and licensee business in Europe, the Middle-East and Africa for several brands including CAT, Sebago, Harley Davidson and Hush Puppies. In 2013 I took on the role of brand director for Hush Puppies, and I have been tasked with the exciting project of growing this iconic brand in the region.

—

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PROMOTION —

JUNE 2015

EVERY ELEMENT COVERED Summer is redefined this season as every element of womenswear comes together at Moda. Returning to Birmingham’s NEC on 9-11 August, the event presents collections across the spectrum of apparel from essential daywear to decadent lingerie, defining the style of s/s 16 and beyond.

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MODA WOMAN

As the launch pad into the UK for brands from all over Europe and beyond, Moda Woman has long been an eclectic mix of international style. The ever-diversifying line-up continues into this season, with a curated selection of womenswear from across the globe presenting the star finds in worldwide fashion.

From the cool breeze of the South of France encapsulated in La Naturelle’s effortless chic to the nautical charm of Batela’s crisp Spanish style (pictured), every element of European culture is represented within Moda Woman. Fresh from the catwalks of Istanbul, meanwhile, Guzella makes its Moda debut, bringing with it an intriguing mix of Turkish fashion in premium textiles from exotic south-east Europe. Rising star and Moda debutante Introstyle flies the flag for Lithuania, while fellow new arrivals Spanner and Cartise represent a wealth of contemporary Canadian fashion from Toronto and Quebec respectively.

Moda Woman also welcomes back its returning favourites for spring, presenting the directional new collections from brands including Lily & Me, Gardeur, Michaela Louisa, Dutch B (formerly Oscar B) and Marble, ensuring buyers have every base covered when it comes to combining their core brands with diverse elements of something new.

MODA WHITE

Moda White elevates the best in contemporary fashion to new levels this season, presenting a diverse range of the industry’s most directional labels. Arriving from Australia where the brand has established a cult following, Boody reflects every element of contemporary lifestyles with its eco-friendly range of bodywear in natural bamboo fibres.

Hailing from the Welsh Valleys, meanwhile, Tymor Seasons makes its Moda White debut with a polished and contemporary collection whose clean aesthetics conceal an ethical conscience within their very fibres. Established following the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory, Tymor Seasons pays its Bangladeshi workforce bonuses for every garment produced, making a difference to developing communities without any compromise to style.

Debutantes Kamuflage and Unicorn Boutique arrive at Moda White from Germany and Ireland respectively, while returning favourites Sahara (pictured), James Lakeland, Leo Guy and Elisa Cavaletti present their directional new ideas designed for spring and beyond.

MODA NOIR

Presenting a range of fashion for special occasions and events after the sun goes down, Moda Noir has got it covered. From floor-length fashion to intricate prom style for modern-day prom queens, Moda Noir offers a luxurious selection of exceptional dresses for extra special occasions.

Making a welcome return this season is industry stalwart Mascara Pour la Femme (pictured).

Having experienced rapid growth throughout s/s 15, the award-winning label from renowned London fashion house Frank Saul unveils an enhanced collection for s/s 16, spanning 90 pieces and a further 60 cocktail styles.

For Veromia, meanwhile, Moda Noir will be the platform from which it will launch its new collection Veromia Occasions. Showcased alongside the UK fashion house’s existing labels Dress Code, Dressed Up and Irresistible, Veromia Occasions will launch into the UK with a range of versatile dresses for guests to weddings or dinner parties.

Elsewhere in Moda Noir, leading US prom label Mac Duggal returns with its latest transatlantic offer, having made its successful UK debut at Moda Noir last year.

R E G I S T E R F O R Y O U R F R E E T I C K E T AT

PROMOTION —

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LINGERIE

Moda Lingerie & Swimwear brings together a range of collections that should be kept anything other than under wraps with this season. The diverse line-up of new and returning brands spans essential underwear to decadent lingerie and nightwear, with a complementary line of must-have swimwear for a comprehensive selection of intimate apparel.

Whether hitting the beach or the waves, Moontide (pictured) has an extensive range of bikinis and one-pieces designed at the brand’s headquarters in New Zealand in line with 35 years of heritage and expertise. At the other end of the spectrum, Clover Lewis Swimwear makes its debut this season.

Lingerie giant Wacoal Europe launches its s/s 16 collections at this season’s Moda, revealing a range of lingerie and swimwear from renowned labels Fantasie, Freya, Elomi and Huit. The effortless style of French intimate apparel arrives at Moda via luxurious labels Lise Charmel and Marjolaine, while Italian brand Luna di Seta adds elements of decadence to nightwear.

Arriving from closer to home, meanwhile, industry favourites Charnos, Lepel and Panache also make a welcome return to Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, contributing to one of the event’s strongest line-ups to date.

FOOTWEAR

Moda Footwear opens the season with a whole new summer of sole, bringing together a host of labels spanning both debutantes and returning favourites.

New arrival Lemonjelly (pictured) lands at the show with a collection that encapsulates the essence of summer, with its contemporary and directional range of footwear in vibrant, glossy colours, designed in Portugal. Oka-B, S.Oliver, Cloud and Solillas also make their Moda Footwear debut this season, strengthening an already diverse line-up of the industry’s leading footwear labels.

Dedicated summer collections are on show from Ipanema, which will bring all the spirit of Rio de Janeiro to the exhibition along with its latest range of footwear launched in conjunction with UK ambassador Sarah-Jane Crawford. Fellow celebrity Jessica Wright will also promote her own footwear line designed in conjunction with Laceys London, even making a personal appearance at the event.

Returning after an absence of a few seasons, Hush Puppies and Peter Kaiser will present their spring offers this season, unveiling an essential range of casual lifestyle footwear for all occasions from the US and Germany respectively. Other returning favourites, meanwhile, include Dr Martens, Unisa, Art, Neosens, Caprice, Xti, Hispanitas and Legero.

MODA-UK.CO.UK

ACCESSORIES

Offering the perfect complement to womenswear with an extensive range of handbags, jewellery, hats and scarves, Moda Accessories diversifies its offer this spring with an extensive collection for the new season.

Returning to boutique area Adorned, Eliza Gracious (pictured) will present its latest collection of contemporary and stylish jewellery, crafted from a mix of metallic and textile finishes for a truly distinctive identity. Eliza Gracious will be joined by brands sharing a synergy with the boutique area, including UK fashion brand Miss Milly.

Elsewhere in Moda Accessories, iconic British accessories label Dents will make a welcome return with its latest collection of fine leather gloves, handbags and other accessories, while handbag brands Peach Accessories and Bolla Bags will also showcase their latest designs at the exhibition.

FASHION —

26 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JUNE 2015

STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month —

IN THE FOOTSTEPS

Sheepskin footwear brand Mou has launched its first accessory line this season, featuring a capsule collection of bags. The styles come in a neutral palette of black, greys and nudes with the occasional pop of red, using the natural leathers and high-quality, ethically sourced skins that the brand is known for.

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UNCONVENTIONAL BASICS

Malaysian-born, London-based designer James Hock is the brain behind the eponymous unisex label, which specialises in unconventional basics. For a/w 15, the collection boasts oversized, cosy garments with urban appeal, including sculpted wool felt jackets and double-layer long tops with ribbed neckline.

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Olivia von Halle’s latest collection gives a nod to the nonchalant and eclectic style of the original British eccentric.

Launching in July, the range features robes and night shirts in high-quality silks.

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EYE ON THE PRIZE

Sportswear brand Gola has launched a new eyewear collection.

Consisting of 58 styles, which retail at £85, the Gola Classics eyewear range builds on the label’s fashion and sports history. Each frame is designed and engineered to include classic Gola elements and sportive details, together with strong, contemporary styling.

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Jeans brand Denham has launched its latest Core collection, to hit stores in November.

Vintage-inspired denim washes, fresh takes on unwashed denim and the label’s twist on other classic concepts sum up the range.

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Tightening the belt

Elliot Rhodes’ offering of belts focuses on trendy brights, timeless nauticals and reinvented military colours this season, inspired by a cornucopia of themes from Latin America to the French Riviera. Leathers feature heavily, with injections of ostrich, stingray, anaconda and lizard textures. The belts are made with a special interchangeable system, allowing buckles and straps to be mixed and matched.

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FASHION —

28 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JUNE 2015

FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now —

LNZ

MY GALAVANT

LNZ is the brainchild of a London-based design trio, creating unisex ready-to-wear that embraces bold prints, ethnographic references and multicultural influences.

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My Galavant is the diffusion line from Tramp in Disguise, created to offer a more affordable and commercial range to complement the main, high-end label.

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Established: 2014

Established: 2013

LNZ was founded by a collective of three London-based designers from a Middle Eastern background. For the last 10 years, the trio has been styling some of the most celebrated artists in the music industry – which led to the creation of custom-made pieces that in turn formed the basis for the brand as it is today. LNZ is pitched at the premium to luxury end of the market, with brand adjacencies including Sibling, YMC, APC and Collective.

The range features bold prints derived from traditional Arabic patterns, embellished with illustrated themes, providing added interest in graphic prints and digital print abstract linings.

The label prides itself on using British manufacturers, such as traditional knitwear factories in the North of England as well as a collaboration with a pioneering Japanese weaving manufacturer, resulting in the brand’s fresh and urban aesthetic.

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Finnish-born fashion and textile designer Sini Moilanen gained an MA at London’s Royal College of Art prior to setting up her first label Tramp in Disguise. My Galavant follows in the footsteps of the main line, using original graphic prints combined with feminine silhouettes that flatter the womanly shape. The signature is fashion-forward and youthful, with styles easy to wear from day to evening. The latest collection, Zorya, has been inspired by Slavic heritage and the intricate embroideries of the national costumes. Prints are combined with plain black and white fabrics, offering a combination of structures and draped silhouettes, as well as fishnet fabric detailing. The brand sits alongside the likes of Mary Katrantzou, with the typical customer profile between 20 and 40 years.

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THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS I N T E R N AT I O N A L F A S H I O N T R A D E S H O W | 7 – 9 J U LY 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com

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PROFILE —

JUNE 2015

REACHING FOR THE TOP Fashion agency TCA Showroom has become a one-stop shop for contemporary international womenswear labels and continues to grow at rapid speed. Isabella Griffiths caught up with senior sales manager Kinsie Sidolle to chat about the key to success.

— LBD

I

n just over three years, Tanrego Clothing Agency – or better known as TCA Showroom – has gone from a small wholesaler to one of the leading fashion agencies in the UK and Ireland, selling a well-edited selection of labels including Soaked in Luxury, Coster Copenhagen, Culture, IKKS, Axara, Relish, Silvian Heach, Little Black Dress, Dyrberg Kern and Charlise.

Situated in Chelsea, on Old Church Street just off the King’s Road, the agency boasts a two-floor showroom where each of the collections is displayed in its own branded space. The driving force behind the success of the agency is senior sales manager Kinsie Sidolle, who runs the 20-strong London team, and makes sure that each of the brands perform to their potential.

“When I joined the company we only had three brands and we were dealing with only a few customers,” says French-born Sidolle.

“Nowadays we have over 180 clients across the 11 brands that we work with and I have a sales team and marketing team, as well as a customer service team in place. Since then my position has changed immensely. I now manage all the teams as my role is to make sure we grow our brands the best way possible and that our customers are successful and happy with their sell-through. I work with my sales team on targets and plan forecasts, as well as with my marketing team on deciding on the marketing actions. I’m also involved in

working with the key accounts and the launch of new brands we may take on in the UK and Ireland. I also visit all the customers we sell to, as I think it’s important to monitor the performance of the brands. It’s not only about selling in the stores but, more importantly, it’s about the selling out.”

It’s the agency’s clever mix of mid-market brands that constitutes the bulk of the portfolio, with a few selected premium labels, as well as a couple of fast-fashion collections. It’s a one-stop shop for retailers and has driven the rapid growth of TCA. “We make sure our labels complement each other and do not compete,” says Sidolle. “We want to offer something for everyone in terms of styling, client target and price point etc.”

The agency is very much focused on serving independent retailers, and Sidolle and her team work closely and continuously with their customers to ensure that the brands are working out in-store. “Most of our business comes from the independent womenswear sector – we wouldn’t be where we are now without indie boutiques, so we really support them back,” she says.

Sidolle is quick to point out that the role of a fashion agency has changed significantly over the years, and is now a year-round relationship rather than just a seasonal one. “Only selling once a season is not working anymore,” she says. “It’s important to be there

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PROFILE —

JUNE 2015

SOAKED IN LUXURY

KINSIE SIDOLLE

COSTER

for the customer all the way through. The agent has to work with the customer after the sell by monitoring the performance of the brand and maximising it by helping with the launch of the label if it’s a new one or by helping with the merchandising if needed, by offering swaps, for instance, if the brand allows etc. And that’s what we do. We go to see every single customer who works with us.”

According to Sidolle, there has been a marked rise in the demand for short order ranges, which – of course – TCA Showroom also tries to accommodate. “Because of the unpredictable weather and the quick change in trends, many customers keep budget to buy in-season, so we have a couple of in-season ranges that cater for this demand,” says Sidolle. “Our forward-order brands also have express collections which our customers love.”

Currently Italian range Silvian Heach and Danish brand Soaked in Luxury are the agency’s top-selling labels, while in-season brand Charlise and Italian label Relish are showing the biggest growth potential. But of course, TCA Showroom is always looking for suitable new brands to add to the stable, and Sidolle and her team are always travelling to find the next hit collection to complement the offer. But for now, the focus is on growing the existing portfolio of brands and achieve maximum sales and exposure for each one.

Sidolle is extremely enthusiastic about her job, the agency and

“Only selling once a season is not working anymore.

It’s important to be there for the customer all the way through”

the industry, and it’s clearly that kind of passion that has helped elevate TCA Showroom into the popular and successful agency that it is. “I love my job,” she says. “It’s never the same. Yesterday I went to a sales meeting in sunny Naples to find out about the stunning new s/s 16 Silvian Heach collection, and today, I’m in rainy London.

I had an important meeting with a department store this morning for one of the French brands and this afternoon I have to go and see one of London’s top independent boutiques with the Dyrberg Kern collection. I could go on – there are so many things that I love.”

Going forward, TCA Showroom remains as ambitious as it’s been to date, and of course growth is never far from the agenda. The agency already has showroom branches in Manchester and Dublin, and a move to a bigger London showroom – to accommodate yet more labels – is on the horizon for next year. “Our aim is to remain one of the top fashion wholesale agencies in the UK and Ireland,” says Sidolle. And there’s no doubt she means it.

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Mark your diary now for the largest and most exciting London Swimwear Show ever!

19-21 July 2015

Radisson Blu Portman Hotel, London A superb line up of established and designer brands accompanied by new brand launches such as A Mere Co Resort Dresses, Clover Lewis Swimwear and Mileti and new exhibitors such as L*Space, Sunseeker, Ted Baker, Pour Moi, Blue Lobster, Beach Bunny Swimwear, Docor, Look Z, Helen Kaminski, PilyQ and much much more.

Further details on the show and hotel accommodation from www.londonswimwearshow.com

SUPPORTED BY:

LYCRAŽ XTRA LIFE™ is a registered trademark of INVISTA

EXHIBITION CALENDAR —

36 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JUNE 2015

SUMMER SCHEDULE The key shows for s/s 16 at a glance.

Sponsored by:

PITTI W 16-19 June Fortezza da Basso, Florence 0039 (0) 0553693238 www.pittimmagine.com Pitti W returns to the Fortezza da Basso with a record number of international applications this show season, proving itself as a firm favourite among exhibitors from far and wide. With 40 per cent of exhibitors coming from over 30 countries, there will be a strong mix of exhibitors at the preview event. Brands attending the show will present products from apparel and textile to lifestyle. Located close to Pitti Uomo, the exhibits are strategically located to blend with the contemporary menswear show.

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PANORAMA BERLIN 7-9 July 2015 ExpoCenter City, Berlin 0049 (0)30275956040 www.panorama-berlin.com Returning this season to the ExpoCenter City, the Berlin trade show continues to find popularity among international and local exhibitors and visitors.

Visitors can enjoy extra added features at the event such as a series of fashion talks on current and market relevant themes of the trade industry, as well as the usual offering of contemporary women’s and men’s collections in over 33,200 sq m of exhibition space.

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Heart of Fashion

WHITE 20-22 June 2015 Via Tortona 27, 20144 Milan 0039 (0)234592785 www.whiteshow.it — SEEK 8-10 July 2015 Eichenstrasse 4, 12435 Berlin 0049 302088913400 www.seekexhibitions.com — BRIGHT 8-10 July 2015 Am Flutgraben, 12435 Berlin 0049 (0)6966962157 www.brighttradeshow.com — LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW 19-21 July 2015 Radisson Blu Portman Hotel, London W1H www.londonswimwearshow.com — PROJECT NEW YORK 19-21 July 2015 Jacob Javits Center, New York 0012 187407092 www.magiconline.com —

9-11 August 2015

Moda, NEC Birmingham. moda-uk.co.uk

EXHIBITION CALENDAR —

37 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JUNE 2015

BREAD & BUTTER 7-9 July 2015 Airport Berlin – Tempelhof, Berlin 0049 (0)30400440 www.breadandbutter.com After some uncertainty over its future, the long-standing trade show will return to its location at Tempelhof airport. With a new creative direction, Bread & Butter has diversified its range of exhibitor categories, introducing the fields of health & well-being, beauty and mobility. The event returns with a theme of sustainability, focusing as usual on showcasing urban and contemporary brands.

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PREMIUM 8-10 July 2015 Station-Berlin, Luckenwalder Strasse, Berlin 0049 (0)306290850 www.premiumexhibitions.com More than 60,000 visitors are expected to peruse over 1,500 collections on offer at the latest edition of Premium. A vast and diverse range of collections will be on show, from classic pieces including sportswear, denim, shoes and accessories to trend-setting, avant-garde designs. Taking place at the historic halls of Station-Berlin, Premium will present the industry with an international, high-calibre brand portfolio, including brands such as Warm-me, Capri and French Connection.

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MODEFABRIEK 12-13 July 2015 Amsterdam RAI, Amsterdam 0031 (0)204421960 www.modefabriek.nl This season, Modefabriek focuses on platforms such as The Salon, a high-end womenswear area showcasing premium brands. Elsewhere, Style Matters offers accessories and niche must-have items, while The Works provides retailers with an area to stay up-to-date on operational management and the latest technologies on offer. The show enjoys a reputation as a highly creative event, and is increasingly attracting an international audience.

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Woman Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories Footwear Gent

9-11 August 2015 Moda, NEC Birmingham moda-uk.co.uk

GALLERY 4-9 August 2015 Forum, Copenhagen 0045 40330930 www.gallerystudio.dk — CIFF 5-7 August 2015 Bella Center, Copenhagen 0045 32528811 www.ciff.dk — MODA ACCESSORIES 9-11 August 2015 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR 9-11 August 2015 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — INDIAN INTERNATIONAL GARMENT FAIR 13-15 July 2015 Pragati Maidan, New Delhi 0091 1242708027 www.indiaapparelfair.com — THE LONDON TEXTILE FAIR 15-16 July 2015 The BDC, Islington, London N1 020 8347 8145 www.thelondontextilefair.co.uk — INDX 5-7 August 2015 Cranmore Park, Solihull Birmingham 0121 713 4453 www.indxshow.co.uk — MICAM 1-4 September 2015 Fiera Milano, Milan 0039 02438291 www.micamonline.com

EXHIBITION CALENDAR —

38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JUNE 2015

SCOOP 2-4 August 2015 Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea, London SW3 020 7596 5154 www.scoop-international.com Boutique trade show Scoop returns to the Saatchi Gallery to showcase s/s 16 collections from more than 250 contemporary designers from across the globe, including womenswear apparel, accessories, lifestyle, ready-to-wear and perfumery products. Later this year, the event will launch a new additional show, Scoop London, to run in line with London Fashion Week. The exhibition will result in two Scoop events taking place each season at the Saatchi Gallery.

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PURE 2-4 August 2015 Olympia, London W14 020 3033 2500 www.purelondon.com Over 600 brands will gather at London’s Olympia to present their s/s 16 collections. Split into four sections – Pure Premium, Allure, Spirit and Aspire – the trade show will feature brands in the fields of accessories, footwear and premium lines. Other show features include catwalk presentations, seminars and retail insight talks. Meanwhile, other show features this year include catwalk presentations and retail insight talks. Confirmed brands at the trade show include Humanoid, Fly London and Guess.

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MODA WOMAN 9-11 August 2015 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda is the UK’s biggest fashion trade event, and once again takes over the NEC in Birmingham this season.

Attracting buyers from across the UK, the show presents the best of contemporary and mainstream womenswear labels from the UK and abroad, covering areas such as daywear, evening and occasionwear, accessories and more. The exhibition’s dedicated area for design-led collections – Moda White – once again returns, as does Moda Noir, showcasing some of the biggest names in evening and occasionwear. Returning labels include the likes of Lily & Me, Marie Mero and Marble, while new signings include Guzella, Cartise and Spanner.

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Heart of Fashion

CPM 2-5 September 2015 Expocentre Fairgrounds, Krasnopresenskaya nab, 14 123100 Moscow 0049 (0)211/4396-482 www.cpm-moscow.com — BIJORHCA 4-7 September 2015 Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 (0)147565282 www.bijorhca.com — LONDONEDGE 6-8 September 2015 Business Design Centre, Upper Street, London N1 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com — MOMAD METROPOLIS 11-13 September 2015 IFEMA Convention & Congress Centre, Madrid 0034 917223000 www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es — ILM 12-14 September 2015 Messe Offenbach GmbH, Kaiserstrasse 108-112 Berlin 0049 6982975520 www.messe-offenbach.de — THE HARROGATE BRIDAL SHOW 13-15 September 2015 Harrogate International Centre 01423 770120 www.theharrogatebridalshow.co.uk — ASIA’S FASHION, JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR 16-19 September 2015 AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong International Airport www.asiafja.com

9-11 August 2015

Moda, NEC Birmingham. moda-uk.co.uk

EXHIBITION CALENDAR —

39 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JUNE 2015

MODA FOOTWEAR 9-11 August 2015 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Taking to the NEC with an offering of over 400 brands, the UK’s national footwear exhibition returns with a varied and international line-up. As always, the show offers a well-balanced mix of up-and-coming names and larger labels. Visitors to the event this season can expect to see labels including Gioseppo, Mauri Moda and Agilis Barcelona. Moda Footwear will run alongside Moda Woman, Moda Accessories and Moda Lingerie & Swimwear.

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WHO’S NEXT PRET-A-PORTER PARIS 4-7 September 2015 Parc Des Expositions, Porte De Versailles, Paris 0033 (0)140137483 www.whosnext-tradeshow.com For its latest edition, Who’s Next brings together a new arrangement for its five ready-to-wear halls. Split into Fame, Private, Trendy, Urban and Studio, brands will showcase collections from French and international designers at the show. Around 55,000 buyers and visitors are expected to descend on the next edition, a figure no doubt helped by the new visual direction for the trade show, which is set to present a more futuristic look than in previous editions.

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LONDON FASHION WEEK 18-22 September 2015 Brewer Street Car Park London W1F 020 7759 1990 www.londonfashionweek.co.uk Now in its 62nd edition, September’s London Fashion Week sees the trade show move to Brewer Street in the heart of Soho. This new central London location meets the event’s objective to host the exhibition in the West End, providing an epicentre for the city-wide fashion celebration, while also being located within close proximity to major retail spaces.

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Woman Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories Footwear Gent

9-11 August 2015 Moda, NEC Birmingham moda-uk.co.uk

CAPSULE NEW YORK 17-19 September 2015 Pier 94, 711 12th Ave, New York 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com — IDEX FASHION SVP 29-30 September 2015 Foresters Hall, 25-27 Westow Street, London 0208 771 3555 www.fashionsvp.com — CAPSULE PARIS 2-4 October 2015 Tapis Rouge, 67 rue du Faubourg, Saint-Martin, 75010 Paris 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com — TRANOI FEMME 2-5 October 2015 Palais de la Bourse, 72002 Paris 0033 (0)153018490 www.tranoi.com — FASHION ACCESS 7-9 October 2015 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong 0085 228276211 www.fashionaccess.aplf.com — BRAND LICENSING EUROPE 13-15 October 2015 Olympia, London W14 www.brandlicensing.eu — THE HUB 13-15 October 2015 Central Studios, Xintiandi, Shanghai, China www.thehub.hk

MADE IN ENGLAND Established in 1983

Contacts: Cathy Hewlett or Anthony Packer Tel: 020 8348 2448 Email: enquiries@outofxile.co.uk www.outofxile.co.uk @outofxile

41 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

PREVIEW —

JUNE 2015

PREMIUM �����JULY�•�STATION�BERLIN

N

ow in its 12th year, Premium brings together collections from across the entire fashion spectrum, ranging from classic womenswear and menswear through to new luxury and pre-collections, sportswear, denim, footwear and accessories, as well as trend-setting, avant-garde collections and newcomers. The show prides itself on representing labels that value sustainability and have a flair for anticipating trends, and it’s thanks to this ethos that the show has been a key date on the international fashion calendar.

Returning to the show are brands such as 360 Sweater, Anecdote, Autumn Cashmere, IHeart, Wood Wood, Slack London, Utzon, AG Adriano Goldschmied, Karl Lagerfeld and Anthology, while newcomers this season include Unoccupied Lab, Aka, Beaumont Organic, Guardaroba, Nasty Habit, Grunge John, Christopher Marvin, 2nd Day, 1981, Musa Simone and Philippe Audibert.

NEW PRODUCT CATEGORIES Last season Premium expanded its product categories to include new luxury and pre-collections, as well as trend-setting fashion brands. For s/s 16 the show is building on this expansion and is further integrating the latest streetstyle trends from the USA into its portfolio, with the introduction of activewear and loungewear to the mix. In the USA, sports fashion has long made it into the hottest stores and is seen more and more on the streets. This new segment gives retail stores the opportunity to extend their own range and to set themselves apart from competitors with a more sophisticated mix of merchandise. Manufacturers are also taking advantage of the trend and are extending their offer accordingly. Head to Hall 2 to see some of the strongest brands in the sector.

SHARING KNOWLEDGE Following the successful launch in January of the new conference format #FASHIONTECH – organised in collaboration with Seek

and re:publica – Premium will be hosting the conference once again on 8 July, bringing the industry up to speed on the latest developments in fashion and technology. “Innovation is important because standing still costs a company more money than investing in innovation and in the future,” says Anita Tillmann, owner and managing director of Premium. “The subject of fashion and technology is very exciting and it is shaping the future of the fashion industry. Personally, I enjoy being part of this development and playing a significant role in shaping it.”

BRAND MATCH WITH BRAND RECOMMENDATIONS & GPS NAVIGATION ROUTE Premium has been working successfully with the Brand Match system for several seasons, bringing buyers and labels together in a targeted manner. At the registration stage, buyers are asked to submit relevant information (details on their ranges, styles, existing brands and price positioning), which is then processed in the event’s database. A personal profile is created for each buyer based on these details and an individualised shortlist of collections is then suggested to each retailer. At the exhibition, the visitor can call up their profile on the Premium app and use the GPS function to follow an individual route through the show. The Brand Match tool and the Premium app help buyers get their bearings and select the right collections. It is a useful tool that makes the ordering process more comfortable and efficient.

JOINT TICKETING Joint ticketing grants visitors with a Premium trade show badge access to Seek, Bright, Show & Order and, starting this season, also to the Green Showroom and the Ethical Fashion Show, all of which are connected by Premium and Seek’s extensive shuttle system.

For more information visit www.premiumexhibitions.com.

43 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

PREVIEW —

JUNE 2015

PANORAMA BERLIN 7-9 JULY 2015 – EXPOCENTRE CITY, BERLIN

With a host of new names, dedicated areas, events and lectures, the s/s 16 edition of Panorama Berlin is set to be its strongest to date. Victoria Jackson speaks to CEO Joerg Wichmann about the importance of trade shows.

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P

anorama Berlin has firmly cemented itself as one of the key international shows to visit for both mainstream womenswear and menswear. Located in the heart of Berlin at the ExpoCentre, the event will welcome over 400 brands across 40,000 sq m.

With new brands including Jeffrey Campbell, Twist & Tango, Vera Mont and Betty & Co, the July edition will also see the launch of Nova – an area of the show (located in Hall 1.2) that combines authentic product and heritage labels with directional and innovative lifestyle products. Spanning 6,000 sq m, the hall will also include a bloggers’ base, street food court and art space.

Ahead of the show, Victoria Jackson spoke to Panorama CEO Joerg Wichmann about s/s 16 and the importance of trade shows for both brands and independent retailers.

Victoria Jackson: What function do fashion trade shows have nowadays?

Joerg Wichmann: First and foremost, fashion trade shows have to bring people and markets together. For us, Panorama Berlin is a bi-annual gathering of the players – the shop owners and buyers, the designers, the companies, the fashion media and much more.

It’s about information, inspiration and business contacts. But fashion trade shows have to create their identity and gravity – they need to have their very own content, image and relevance.

VJ: How international do fashion trade shows need to be?

JW: First of all, fashion trade shows need to be relevant and, if they’re relevant, they are immediately international, as no-one wants to miss an important event. With buyers from 97 nations, we do have that kind of international relevance.

VJ: Are showrooms a surrogate for trade shows?

JW: Are pears a surrogate for apples? Why would someone want to replace fashion exhibitions? Showrooms will never be a surrogate for trade fairs, nor the other way around. Both are important for a lively fashion landscape.

VJ: Should the end consumer be able to visit a fashion trade show?

JW: We are convinced that trade exhibitions should be for trade visitors only. Panorama is for professionals only, and always will be as we want to focus on giving buyers and store owners the best possible platform, input and service, and you can only really focus on one side of the business. Otherwise you end up with a show that is good for no-one really.

VJ: What is your forecast regarding trade shows?

JW: At the speed the world is changing, including all the conflicts that are beyond fashion, it is almost impossible to predict the future. But as long as consumers want fashion, there will be a need for fashion, and as such the need for platforms where the trade gathers will still be there – even if consumers, in the end, decide to shop exclusively online. At Panorama Berlin, we see lots of buyers from the world’s biggest fashion online traders and even they need fashion trade fairs just as much as any store owner and buyer.

VJ: So what’s new for Panorama Berlin for s/s 16?

JW: Due to the continued high demand, the show is again extending its exhibition space by another hall with 6,000 sq m of surface area. The new section, called Nova, will be located on the first floor on top of the entrance hall. Here we will create a trend-lab space – presenting cutting edge and niche collections that inspire our visitors. Diana Vreeland, the legendary editor-in-chief of American Vogue, knew the eye has to travel. Nova is just that – pure inspiration.

Registration: Tickets are free of charge and can be ordered via the Panorama website: www.panorama-berlin.com/register.

Opening hours: 7 July 2015 – 9am-6pm 8 July 2015 – 9am-6pm 9 July 2015 – 9am-6pm —

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PREVIEW —

JUNE 2015

LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW The London Swimwear Show takes place at London’s Radisson Blu Portman Hotel on 19-21 July, welcoming key swimwear and beachwear exhibitors to the event. WWB’s Rebecca Jackson looks at some of the highlights of the s/s 16 collections.

— VINCE CAMUTO Known for its range of effortless styles, Vince Camuto channels its signature look into its latest swimwear offer. From stripes to solids, the s/s 16 collection features a host of different styles, from swimsuits to cover-up dresses.

Colour blocking and floral prints are used to create a summer-chic look, while chain details and shirring make a statement.

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COCO RAVE Fun and flirty styles dominate the Coco Rave swimwear collection this season. The brand, which is known for its fitted bra-style tops and contemporary design, utilises colourful hues in solids, stripes and florals. From peek-a-boo tops to ruffle skirted bottoms, the collection embodies a variety of tastes and styles, with mesh fabric, crochet and zip details adding an additional flair to the range.

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LOOK Z The s/s 16 Paradise collection from Look Z is inspired by exotic islands and beaches. The range combines a playful colour palette with contemporary design to create pieces that can be worn alone or with other styles in the collection. The brand’s key design, the Brazilian shape bikini, is available in two style options – a halter-neck top with laced briefs and a sliding triangle top with low-rise hipster-style briefs.

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AGUACLARA The s/s 16 line from Aguaclara focuses on glamorous designs and innovative prints. Cut-out styles, bold animal prints and embellishments feature across the collection. However, the key focus of the range is to enhance curvy figures, with design features such as extra padding and adjustable ties playing a key role. The bestselling piece for the brand remains its Missy halter swimwear style, which offers support up to an E cup and full coverage.

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PREVIEW —

JUNE 2015

WACOAL For s/s 16, Wacoal launches Purity, a new feminine-focused collection. Available in both underwired and Spacer Contour bra styles, the range promises excellent fit and comfort. The Purity range is available in two colours, white and dawn, and features a cotton lining on both styles, which can also be complemented with a choice of brief or short co-ordinates.

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PHAX The s/s 16 collection at Phax follows the success of the s/s 15 Sunshine Fiesta collection.

Featuring bold and brightly coloured swimwear and co-ordinating cover-ups, kaftans, tunics and beach accessories, the range of styles can be worn as mix-and-match options.

Popular styles include twist bandeaus, halters and triangle tops, with a variety of different brief options available.

— MOONTIDE The New Zealand company uses fabrics from around the world to aim its produce at different markets, a technique that allows the brand to create a better fit across its swimwear line. In the latest collection, bold prints and shapes are used to reflect the spirit of New Zealand, though plain styles are still available on one-piece and two-piece swimsuits.

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DAVID SWIMWEAR The David Swimwear s/s 16 collection sees the introduction of classic and elegant styles to the range. New pieces are combined with the brand’s signature styles, which focus on trendy and contemporary Italian design. The label also introduces an essentials range, which is a collection of core designs and classic must-have pieces. The new concept will represent a central part of the brand identity for future collections.

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KIWI SAINT-TROPEZ French label Kiwi Saint-Tropez offers a wide range of beachwear, including beach bags, linen shirts, shorts and canvas shoes.

All products in the collection focus on recreating a French Riviera look. Pieces are available to be worn as mix-and-match items, and include a varied offering of sarongs, skirts, dresses, towels, hats, bags and flip-flops.

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ROSA FAIA For s/s 16, Rosa Faia extends its mix-and-match options to include two new colour combinations – a bright poppy design and a small leopard print in black and white.

The contemporary swimwear brand also offers its usual range of bikinis, swimsuits and tankinis, which are complemented by a wide selection of accessories and cover-ups including dresses, blouses, tunics and beach bags.

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FORUM —

JUNE 2015

RETAIL DIARY We recently attended the Bira conference as members of FAB and found it really boosted our levels of morale, especially since we’re finalists for the Best Independent Retailer of the Year.

Meeting fellow independent retailers really boosted our passion for the high street and all we do at Grace & Ted to support it. It was especially exciting to hear what Mary Portas had to say to the delegates about the high-street experience. We find that there is a lull in energy after Christmas and New Year, so an industry event encouraged us to kick-start our next campaign. As a small, independent retailer, it’s helpful to have some relevant and insightful input from other figures in the industry. We were recently talking to some retailers here about how hard it is to grow and develop your business creatively while managing the shop floor as well as administration. It’s also tough to take criticism or negative feedback from customers as we’re so passionate about what we do. Listening to Andrew McMillan from John Lewis – the retail role model for us all – revealed some pertinent truths. It’s essential not to take things personally but to try to be objective about your business and look at things with some detachment. I liked the quote he cited from the Ritz, “Welcomed, wanted, remembered, cared for”. It resonated because while we do our utmost to provide a high level of service to our customers, there are always things we can do to improve their experience in our shop. We will continue to try harder to create an inviting and helpful atmosphere that makes our customers feel truly cared for. We are finding it increasingly beneficial to speak to fellow retailers and share our experience, since it makes us feel a part of the bigger picture. Indies are spread all over the UK, but being part of a single family all working for the same goal is really empowering and inspiring. Being reminded of why we love fashion retailing enables us to create and deliver something special at Grace & Ted every day.

— Emma Savage is the co-owner of Grace & Ted in Bath. Grace & Ted is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) www.fashion associationofbritain.co.uk

RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry —

NOTTINGHAM BOUTIQUE LAUNCHES MONTHLY PRIZE DRAW

PRE-ELECTION PARTY WELCOMES NEW DESIGNERS Independent retailer Wolf & Badger threw a pre-election themed party last month to welcome a wealth of new designers.

The Notting Hill store brought together politics and fashion in an event that celebrated its new designers to hold collections at the shop. The in-store event welcomed names including Beara Beara, Alisa Smirnova London, Dorota Todd, Dundas London and Tobias Clothing among others. Party-goers snacked on Iona Hart marshmallows and sipped on cocktails both with corresponding party colours – blue for badger and orange for wolf. Guests unanimously chose wolf as their favourite drink of the evening.

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Boutique 11 recently launched a monthly prize draw to treat customers spending £100-plus in-store. Customers at the independent boutique in Mapperley, Nottingham, have been entered into a competition to win a night out at a local restaurant. The prize includes dinner and a bottle of wine for two at fine-dining restaurant Hart’s, which is also based in Nottingham. Penny Britton, owner of Boutique 11, says, “We really wanted to give something back to our loyal customers, so have started a monthly scheme with a range of fantastic prizes.

This is our first prize draw so far, and we are delighted to be able to treat one of our lovely ladies to an exquisite meal in a high-end restaurant.”

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FORUM —

JUNE 2015

What’s the best business decision you’ve ever made?

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AWARDS VICTORY FOR KENDAL INDIE Kendal independent Armstrong Ward was among the winners of the national Greats Retailer Awards 2015, which took place on 7 May at London’s Savoy Hotel.

Now in its 13th year, the Awards recognise and celebrate not only the top independent and multiple gift retailers regionally and nationally, but also “one-off” niche retailers. Competing in the Best Lifestyle, Homeware and Gifts category, Armstrong Ward was up against leading retailers such Homer, Joy, Oliver Bonas, Orange Tree and Sparks Yard.

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GAIL NIVEN Director, Just G Boutique, Edinburgh

LEEDS INDIE HOSTS COLLABORATION PARTY Leeds independent Lambert’s Yard hosted an in-store event last month, celebrating a new collaboration.

MY LAST PURCHASE Emma Hayes, owner, Emma Plus, Brighton “My favourite recent purchase is a gorgeous leather jacket from Danish manufacturer Fransden. It’s superb – soft and buttery with sleek detail. The panels start at the shoulders, and gently expand towards the hip, looking as good from the back as it does from the front. I was so excited to find a collection of really lovely leather jackets that went up to ‘proper’ large sizes (most plus-size leather clothing, as it gets larger, becomes steadily less well-sized, meaning the top sizes of many styles are wildly undersized). This is not the case, in my experience, with anything produced by the parent company Godke. This jacket (pictured) says it is a size 24, and that’s exactly what it is.”

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TIFFANY MOORE Owner, Renes Lapelle, Lancaster, Lancashire JAMES CRAY

The event, Camel & Wool Presents Indigo, celebrated a collaboration between creative direction company Camel & Wool and fashion designer Indigo. An evening of fashion, photography, film and interactive art celebrated Indigo’s new collection, which bases its concept around Harajuku style.

Created by Camel & Wool, the evening had an overall distinct kitch theme, and featured large, quirky installations. Goody bags were presented to the first 50 guests.

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ANNAMARIA QUINN

“Moving the boutique to the West End of Edinburgh.

Sales and footfall have benefited from the move to a more prestigious area, plus I’m now in an area with more boutiques. As the boutique was only 15 months old, it was a gamble and did cost some money, but it was the right thing to do for the business.”

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“To focus more on our marketing and social-media strategy. By hosting more in-house events and promotions, it’s enabled better networking with our valued clients and has created a wonderful vibe within the store – resulting in increased footfall and sales across all brands.”

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“Without a doubt selling on eBay. Although expensive, it’s been our saviour during the quiet trading periods.

The site is of course a great way to reach out to the masses and turn over stock to get the cash flowing again.”

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Owner, Katwalk Casa, Royal Wootton Bassett, Wiltshire

DEBRA MCCANN Owner, The Mercantile, Spitalfields, London E1

“To close the wholesale side of the business and focus on retail, which was growing from strength to strength.

After 12 years of wholesaling, it was a tough decision to make, but one I’ve had no regrets about at all.”

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48 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK — JUNE 2015

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Turn your overstocks into CASH We pay MORE, because we dont sell on Any quantity David Oliver Phone: 0208 736 0088 Mobile: 07836 389399 Email: david@dofg.net

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50 WOMENSWEAR BUYER WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK —

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —

JUNE 2015

SARA BRETT

Bernshaw’s design director shares her career highlights, her dream customer and plans going forward for the 70-year-old brand.

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You’re the third-generation member of the family business and joined the company when you were just 16. What have been your personal career highlights during that time?

I’ve been so lucky to have been able to come into a family business and learn the trade from the bottom up. My career highlights are every time I see a woman in a Bernshaw dress – knowing I’ve played an important part in her special day.

What influences inspire your designs the most?

I love fashion magazines for inspiration. I also love “people watching”. I keep an eye on the catwalks and Fashion Week for shows such as Burberry or Valentino – there I look at colour, fabric or at details. Bloggers are a big influence, and I’m addicted to my Instagram feed for a fascinating, constant mood board.

How have customers’ demands changed over the years since Bernshaw was founded in 1945?

After the Second World War, fashion was adjusting to the culture shift and, although women were eager to leave the era of “make do and mend”, they didn’t have the choice they do today. Dresses in all shapes and sizes at a range of price points are available on the high street, in department stores and now online.

The Bernshaw woman still wants to look beautiful and have a dress that will accentuate her curves and help her feel confident but, with new technology and complex compositions of fabrics, this makes our fit better than ever.

The brand has an existing celebrity following. Who else would you like to see wearing your styles?

The Duchess of Cambridge would be my ideal lady to dress. She embodies modern Britain to me; she’s intelligent and considerate while dressing in a chic and elegant way. I think she would look graceful in a long, jewel-coloured maxi dress, or a neat knee-length cocktail dress with a pair of her classic court shoes.

Bernshaw is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year – what have been the biggest milestones for the company, and what are the plans going forward?

We’re planning a capsule Christmas collection of seven dresses to mark the 70 years, and are currently going through our archive to compile all those happy memories and key milestones. It will be an honour to showcase the past, celebrate the present and look forward to the future.

INSIDER

— Who is your style icon?

Olivia Palermo. She is my style and fashion icon. I love how she mixes designer with high street and new with vintage. She’s super cool and stylish and I admire how she looks so effortlessly chic.

Which fashion business do you admire?

Ralph Lauren. Because everything he touches is golden – he’s taken fashion to the next level and it’s now all about a lifestyle.

What’s the best piece of business advice you have ever been given?

I like a good Instagram quote, and this one resonated... “Don’t promise when you’re happy, don’t reply when you’re angry and don’t decide when you’re sad.” I find my best business decisions are made when I’ve been able to step back and think clearly about them.

What’s the one fashion item you can’t live without?

A Bernshaw dress.