WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk JULY 2015/ ISSUE 248 £6.95
THE BUYERS’ GUIDE WELL-SEASONED Comprehensive guide to spring/summer 2016 GHOST RELOADED Touker Suleyman on the turnaround of the iconic label NEW DAWN Why continuity is driving the relaunch of Fenn Wright Manson
S P R I N G S U M M E R 2016 C O L L E C T I O N to m a k e a n a p p o i n t m e n t at a s h o w r o o m n e a r yo u p l e a s e c o n ta c t: e : t r a d e @ j o u l e s . c o. u k
t: +44 (0) 1858 435261
C O N T E N T S / J U L Y / 07 wwb-online.co.uk
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COLLECTION NEWS The new launches and product developments for s/s 16
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S/S 16 TRENDS The key looks dominating the season
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INTO THE WOODS Young fashion in the spotlight
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SCOOP Our guide to next month’s show
103/ M O D A F I R S T G L A N C E
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A sneak peek at what the August edition has to offer
106/ N O R T H E R N A M B I T I O N How Lambert’s Yard became Leeds’ top shopping destination
108/ R E T A I L F O R U M 09/
EDITOR’S COMMENT
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NEWS
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BACKSTAGE
111/ E - T A I L C L I N I C Expert e-commerce advice
114/ T H E L A S T W O R D With Cleo Barbour, founder of footwear label Cleo B
The other side of womenswear
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TALKING POINT Your views on the issues shaping the industry
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INTERVIEW With Ghost’s Touker Suleyman
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STYLE FILE The latest directional product news
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FASHION RADAR WWB’s brand to watch
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LIFE’S A BEACH The best holiday products to get in-store now
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RETURN TO GLORY Fenn Wright Manson’s turnaround
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THE BUYERS’ GUIDE A comprehensive round-up of the season ahead
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COVER: TRAFFIC PEOPLE , 01245 280878
SUMMER 2016
MY MICHÈLE DÜSSELDORF CPD · HALLE 30 ·1.07
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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com
Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths
Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Subscriptions Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323
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It’s the start of s/s 16, and what better way to kickoff the season than with a fresh, new look. As you can see, at WWB we have been busy giving the magazine a bit of a facelift, with a number of new features designed to make your favourite trade title even more informative and essential reading. I really hope you like the new layouts as much as we do. With that said, we have created a bumper July issue, bringing you everything you need to know to make the buying season a successful one. Key to this is our round-up of the dominating trends for s/s 16, starting on page 56. As in previous seasons, spring/summer is led by a muted colour palette and understated chic but, thankfully, brands have played it a little less safe this time and put a strong emphasis on upmarket fabrics, clever detailing and trends that reference the key influences from the catwalks without compromising on wearability. The results are commercial collections with a high-design input that offer value for money and should hopefully keep your tills ringing come next summer. Our fashion shoot on page 74 brings the key young fashion looks to life and sports a distinct festival vibe – a trend that continues to be strong. We have summed up all the new launches and agency news in our collection update on
page 48, and it’s nice to see that there’s a plethora of new labels making their first foray into the UK market – the British Isles are clearly still an attractive proposition for many international players and their arrival provides even more choice for the season ahead. We’ve also taken a sneak peek at Lambert’s Yard in Leeds – one of the city’s most impressive new retail destinations, and an indie with a huge amount of vision and drive that is positively changing the local retail scene. Furthermore, we’ve caught up with the directors behind two of the UK’s most iconic labels, Fenn Wright Manson and Ghost, both of which have undergone significant relaunches and are now reaping the rewards with their eyes firmly set on growth. This month, the key womenswear shows are kicking off and, as the issue is landing on your doorstep, the Berlin shows are under way, followed by the UK exhibitions in August. We look ahead to what Scoop has to offer – which is an array of directional and design-driven brands – and take a first look at the key brands in contemporary fashion at Moda. As always, it will be great to hear from you, as well as – hopefully – bump into many of you at the shows. Until then, I wish you a successful season and happy buying!
WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK OR EMAIL ISABELLA@RAS-PUBLISHING.CO.UK FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @WWBMAGAZINE, FACEBOOK WWB MAGAZINE AND PINTEREST WWBMAGAZINE
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WESTFIELD INVESTS IN LUXURY FASHION London’s shopping centre confirms multi-million pound investment to luxury quarter, The Village.
Westfield London has agreed a multi-million pound investment to expand its luxury shopping area, The Village. Plans will see a number of stores expanded, new luxury names opened and existing retailers relocated to larger spaces. The upgrades reflect growing demand for luxury retail from Westfield London shoppers and increased global luxury spend, which grew by seven per cent in 2014, representing annual sales of £10.1bn in the personal luxury goods market in London alone. Demand from tourists for premium items has also contributed, with luxury sales expected to increase 10.75 per cent in the UK by 2018. “Westfield London is rated the number-one shopping centre in the UK and is in the top-five tourist shopping destinations in London,” says Keith Mabbett, director of leasing for Westfield. “The Village was the first luxury offer inside a shopping centre in the UK and has proved popular, attracting over 100 million visitors since opening in 2008. “We pride ourselves on creating exciting and innovative places for our customers, and this major investment in The Village is an important part of this strategy,” he continues, “We work closely with our retail partners to understand how we can support their business ambitions for their stores, and these enhancements are a critical part of these partnerships.” The refurbishment will see fashion label Versace increase its presence with three stores in Westfield London, including
two new shops in The Village – Versace, with a retail space of 1,370 sq ft, and Versus Versace. Following the success of its pop-up store at Westfield London, shoppers will now be able to visit the first permanent Versus Versace store in the UK – which opens this month and will sport a retail space of 5,326 sq ft. Shoppers to The Village will also benefit from new retailers arriving in autumn 2015 including Sandro, Jigsaw, Zadig & Voltaire and Claudie Pierlot. In addition, Whistles will be opening a new, enlarged shop later this year, and Hackett has recently completed a re-fit and opened a new store. Enhancements include the launch of a new personal styling service, The Fashion Lounge, which is situated on the second floor of The Village. Expert stylists will be on hand and a range of beauty treatments will also be available from The Lounge. Improvements to The Village will continue throughout 2015, with further new stores to be announced later in the year. Westfield is centred around five anchor stores – Debenhams, Next, Marks & Spencer, House of Fraser and Waitrose – and over 265 luxury, premium and high-street retailers from more than 15 different countries. Eighty per cent are fashion-focused and 40 are luxury brands housed within the boutique-style environment, The Village.
FOR DAILY NEWS, ANALYSIS AND UPDATES, VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
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NEWS IN BRIEF
LINDSAY LOHAN TEAMS UP WITH LAVISH ALICE
WOKING SHOPPING WELCOMES FATFACE
Young fashion brand Lavish Alice has collaborated with Hollywood actress Lindsay Lohan on a directional a/w 15 capsule collection featuring 16 pieces. Taking inspiration from her own wardrobe, Lohan has created a range of fashion-forward dresses and separates, complementing the brand’s clean and minimal aesthetic. The collection fuses traditional soft tailoring, polarised with a theme of fringing and tassels running throughout, nodding to Lohan’s more playful and laid-back bohemian style. A neutral colour palette of black, navy, grey and white ensures the line is timeless. The Lindsay Lohan X Lavish Alice collection has gone on sale at www.lavishalice.com and through international wholesale partnerships. Wholesale prices range between £16 and £25. The brand was founded in 2011 and is available through its own e-tail platform, as well as Asos, Very.co.uk, Nasty Gal and Pixie Market, alongside over 400 independent boutiques across the UK.
Lifestyle brand FatFace is set to open a 2,500 sq ft store at Woking Shopping’s The Peacocks centre, one of the town’s premier retail destinations, this autumn. The label will take up residence in close proximity to the likes of Superdry, Monsoon and Jones. FatFace is a fast-growing retailer that offers a range of clothing and accessories for women, men and children that typify an active, outdoor lifestyle. Having started in 1988 as a business selling T-shirts and sweatshirts in the Alps, it is now one of the UK’s most recognised multichannel retail brands. “FatFace continues to perform well, and the latest addition in Woking supports our growth strategy of adding excellent new markets to the portfolio,” says Robert Moore, acquisitions manager at FatFace. “Improvements in the centre in recent years, and investment from its owners, led the brand to re-evaluate the location, which now provides us with an exciting opportunity.”
BRITISH ECONOMY ON “FIRM FOOTING” The British economy is on a “firm footing”, having grown faster than predicted this year, according to the Confederation of British Industry (CBI). The CBI – the business sector’s largest lobbying group which represents the interests of UK business – predicts that the economy will now continue to improve with “solid, steady and sustainable growth” into next year. “Our members are feeling more upbeat than some of the recent official numbers suggest, with our surveys showing that retail and the service sectors in particular are performing strongly,” says John Cridland, the CBI’s director general. “Businesses on the ground are seeing a pretty strong recovery. Business investment is making a strong contribution to growth, while solid consumer spending is being underpinned by rock-bottom inflation, low interest rates and rising incomes.” Specifically, the CBI predicts growth of 2.4 per cent this year, following by a further 2.5 per cent next year.
SUPERGROUP APPOINTS NEW CFO SuperGroup, the parent company behind Superdry, has appointed Nick Wharton to the position of chief financial officer. Wharton has been Interim CFO since 25 February and is now stepping up to the board of the company. Wharton is a chartered accountant and has also been a nonexecutive director of Mothercare since November 2013. HARRODS SHOP-IN-SHOP MARKS UK EXPANSION US accessories and ready-to-wear brand Rebecca Minkoff has opened a shop-inshop at Harrods. The concession, which stocks Rebecca Minkoff ’s accessible range of ready-to-wear, is positioned between See by Chloe and Love Moschino in Harrods’ fourth floor Fashion Lab. The launch of the retail space sees the start of the brand’s European expansion, with a strong focus on the UK market. DEBENHAMS RAISES £5K FOR RETAIL TRUST Department store Debenhams has raised £5,208 for industry charity the Retail Trust through a series of dedicated summer events. The campaign – hosted in conjunction with Barclays Bank – saw the high-street multiple organise Summer Shopping Evenings in seven of its stores last month for Barclays Premier clients. Shoppers enjoyed previews, discounts, beauty demonstrations and goody bags, and had the opportunity to learn about and support the Retail Trust. NEW RETAIL DISPLAY DIRECTORY The Shop and Display Equipment Association (SDEA) has published a new guide to the shop-fitting and display industry – the SDEA Retail Display Directory 2015/2016. Featuring new ideas, creative concepts and innovative retail display solutions, buyers can select from over 100 leading designers, manufacturers and suppliers of specialist retail display products and services.
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NEWS IN BRIEF
ZALANDO INVESTS IN BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN
SUCCESS FOR MEET THE MANUFACTURER
Berlin e-tailer Zalando has invested in troubled German trade show Bread & Butter Berlin (BBB), meaning insolvency proceedings for the fashion exhibition could be closed by October this year. Together, the companies are looking to further develop Berlin as a fashion location, with the content of the new BBB concept for 2016 finalised and ready to be communicated later this year. “We were always convinced of the appeal of the BBB fashion event and trademark,” says Christian Graf Brockdorff, insolvency administrator for BBL Bernsau Brockdorff & Partner. “This is why we have supported the continuation. “With a new investor on board, the future of it all is now secure and BBB can be led out of insolvency this year,” he continues. “I would like to thank Karl-Heinz Müller and the BBB team as well as the Centuros consultancy for their support in reaching this goal.” The s/s 16 edition of BBB took place earlier this month at the Airport Tempelhof.
Some 3,000 retailers, manufacturers and designers descended on London’s Tobacco Dock last month for the annual Meet the Manufacturer conference and trade show. The two-day event, organised by Make it British, welcomed key speakers such as E.Tautz designer Patrick Grant, chairman of Dr Martens David Suddens, and Anita Nagarajan, ethical trading manager at Oasis and Warehouse. Grant, who headlined the event, said, “The future of UK manufacturing has to be in skills, investment in machinery and investment in the fabric of our factories. Genuine partnerships between the large retailers and manufacturers – not just in the small, niche product lines, but as a genuine, fundamental part of everything that they do – can create an awful lot of jobs and an awful lot of value.” Kate Hills, founder and CEO of Make it British said, “There is an air of confidence in the industry that I haven’t seen for years and a real positivity about our future.”
SHOPPERS TO BENEFIT FROM NEW COVENT GARDEN APP Visitors to Covent Garden can now benefit from special offers and services at multiple outlets available via new smartphone app The Pass, which has been designed specifically for the area. Visitors can access offers at retail stores, restaurants and bars by downloading the service for free on phones and tablets via iOS and Android operating systems. Services include rewards from Covent Garden’s most popular brands including Clinique, Dior, Aveda, Penhaligon’s, Galeria Melissa, Oliver Sweeney and Blo Blow Dry Bar, as well as restaurants such as Laduree, Joe Allen and Lima Floral. The Pass is the latest retail concept to come to Covent Garden. Recently, the area has become known as a launch pad for labels debuting the latest retail concepts. Last year, Marc Jacobs opened a Tweet shop on the Piazza – which saw thousands of consumers tweet in exchange for branded goods. Beverley Churchill, creative director of property company Capco, says, “We’ve spent months developing The Pass to give visitors the ultimate ‘insider’ experience of Covent Garden. For the first time, this new technology allows us to track customers’ favourite offers, so we can learn how Covent Garden visitors like to shop and dine.
HOUSE OF FRASER TO OPEN AT RUSHDEN LAKES IN 2017 House of Fraser is to open an anchor store with 64,000 sq ft of retail space at the new Rushden Lakes Retail and Leisure complex in Northamptonshire. It will be the department-store group’s first full-mix “bricks and mortar” store to open in the UK since 2008; when House of Fraser opened its anchor stores at Victoria Square Belfast, Cabot Circus Bristol and Westfield White City. SALES GROWTH SLOWS IN MAY Sales growth slowed to 0.2 per cent in May as figures plateaued following a relatively strong April. Representing a decrease in sales of 1.6 per cent compared to April’s figures, the slow growth has been attributed to a spell of cooler weather, which has dulled shoppers’ appetites for spring collections following the previous warmer month. The data is in line with economists’ predictions who revised May forecasts following the unseasonably warm climate in April. MARC CAIN OPENS STATE OF THE ART LOGISTICS CENTRE Marc Cain has invested ¤35m (£25.5m) into a new, predominantly automated, logistics centre to centralise all operational processes efficiently. The centre will comprise offices, packaging, returns and quality control under one roof and a dispatch warehouse with a capacity of 500,000 hanging items in the adjacent building. The centre was on track to be completed and open at the time of going to press, with an aim to have the entire logistics centre up and running by autumn 2015. TEXTILE FORUM EXPANDS FOR AUTUMN This autumn’s edition of the Textile Forum will be the biggest to date, with a host of new exhibitors showcasing the finest wool, tweed, lace, silk and more at One Marylebone on 14-15 October. Among the first-time exhibitors are Dashing Tweeds, Dugdale Bros and Hantex. For a full list of exhibitors and to register for the show, visit www.textileforum.org.uk.
Heart of Fashion
Woman Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories Footwear Gent
9-11 August 2015 Moda, NEC Birmingham Register for tickets at moda-uk.co.uk
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NEWS IN BRIEF SOPHIE CAMERON DAVIES LAUNCHES E-COMMERCE Designer label Sophie Cameron Davies has launched its first e-commerce site – www.sophiecamerondavies.com. The site offers the brand’s luxurious tailored silk shirts, with prices starting at £240 and complimentary shipping on all UK orders.
FTCT LAUNCHES NEW NATIONAL CAMPAIGN
RETAILERS TO BENEFIT FROM CROSSRAIL
Trade charity the Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust (FTCT) will soon be sending out personal letters to the CEOs and HR managers of 130 of the UK’s top retailers as part of a new awareness campaign. The aim of this year’s initiative is to increase awareness of FTCT’s grant programme, which supports the education and well-being of children whose parents work in any aspect of UK fashion retailing, manufacturing and textile trade. As well as working with BHS, M&S, Next and Hobbs, the charity is keen to reach more companies – big and small – to help ease financial pressure for those families in the industry that have hit hard times. “It only takes one instance such as illness, disability or bereavement to put a family in financial hardship,” says FTCT director Anna Pangbourne. “This can have a detrimental effect on their personal lives and performance at work. The charity welcomes contact from all employers who wish to get their company involved. For further information call FTCT on 020 7232 1876 or email anna@ftct.org.uk.
Retailers in London’s West End and the surrounding areas are set to benefit from an estimated £10bn revenue project after the opening of Crossrail in 2018. New West End Company, the business voice and representatives of 600 businesses across Oxford Street, Bond Street and Regent Street, revealed plans for multi-billion pound development work in order to capitalise on the arrival of London’s new, high-capacity railway. Plans for a number of projects and major building developments valued at an estimated combined gross development value of £2.5bn are set to attract shoppers to the area and should see retail revenues increase. This is expected to place London ahead of every other European city for retail and cement its place among the world’s top global destinations. Jonathan De Mello, head of retail consultancy at property advisor Harper Dennis Hobbs, says, “London has an enviable public transport network, and Crossrail will boost this further. Not only will this significantly improve ease of access and travel times into the West End, but it will also ease congestion on key tube lines.”
BPF URGES RATE REFORM The British Property Federation has urged the government to significantly overhaul the current business rates system to avoid businesses facing an effective tax rate of 60 per cent by 2022. The industry trade body cites research by a number of surveyors – which indicates that due to the “out-of-kilter” relationship between rental values and business rates, businesses are facing unrealistic charges in relation to their properties. Currently the research estimates that the rate is effectively a 49.3 per cent tax, potentially rising to 60 per cent within the next seven years. “From the advent of the internet to the financial crash, the way we use property has seen enormous changes since business rates were introduced in the early 90s,” says Melanie Leech, chief executive of the British Property Federation. “In order to ensure that the business rates system is fair, the government must ensure that the rates system takes account of these changes. Failure to do so could mean the UK missing out on investment, with longer term risks for the competitiveness of our economy.”
SEVEN DIALS WELCOMES TWO LATEST ADDITIONS International fashion and lifestyle brand Club Monaco and menswear label Natural Selection are among the latest additions to Seven Dials Monmouth Street. Club Monaco, which is a fashion and lifestyle destination, has taken an almost 2,000 sq ft store at 35-37 Monmouth Street, trading over ground floor and basement levels. The brand, which is known for innovative retail environments, will bring its musthave fashion and accessories to the specially designed store. LIPSY AGREES COUNTERFEIT SETTLEMENT Womenswear brand Lipsy has obtained a five-figure settlement payment from Egg Media UK and its sole director and shareholder Sonney Poole, the operators of website WantThatDress.co.uk. Lipsy agreed not to commence court proceedings against Egg Media UK and Mr. Poole for their infringement of Lipsy’s design rights, copyright and trade marks in return for the five figure payment and binding undertakings that they would not infringe Lipsy’s rights in the future, as well as other important concessions. EDINBURGH CHAMPIONS ECO-FRIENDLY FASHION Eco-friendly fashion will take centre stage at this year’s Edinburgh International Fashion Festival, which takes place on 23-26 July. Working in partnership with Zero Waste Scotland, it will focus on the issue of sustainability to help engage businesses and consumers with making fashion eco-friendly. The festival consists of a series of events and exhibits, and will host speakers from brands including Pringle of Scotland.
NOW
TWO
SCOOP
SHOWS
EACH SCOOP
2 - 4 AUGUST 2015 Contemporar y Designer Show
SEASON LONDON
20 - 22 SEPTEMBER 2015 Designer Collections Show
S A A T C H I G A L L E R Y, L O N D O N Find out more at scoop-international.com Š Maria Rivans, Carina, Limited edition print available at saatchistore.com
PROMOTION —
STRONG FOUNDATIONS Moda Lingerie & Swimwear returns to Birmingham’s NEC on 9-11 August, taking place in conjunction with Moda Woman to offer the perfect foundations for s/s 16 from the inside out. MODA LINGERIE With no element of compromise between style and fit, the lingerie sector presents a range of collections with fashion and function at the forefront of every design. Shimmering nudes prove essential for the season’s sheer finishes in apparel, while decadent designs in lingerie are too good to be kept under wraps. — MODA SWIMWEAR Shaping the style of s/s 16 and beyond, the swimwear sector presents its most striking collections to date with a range of one-pieces, bikinis and tankinis complemented by a range of stylish beach cover-ups. Bond Girl statement styling is key, while tropical jungle prints prevail for a summer of colour celebrating every aspect of life by the waterside. —
SOUTH BEACH PANACHE
MODA BOUTIQUE Dedicated to acting as a platform for the sector’s niche labels, Moda Boutique brings together the rising stars of the intimate apparel world from both a domestic and global perspective. This season’s débutantes include newly launched label Smith & Downes – the British loungewear specialising in Liberty prints, designer mastectomy brand Clover Lewis Swimwear and luxury French lingerie label Maison Close. —
HUIT
CLEO
B.TEMPT’D
SMITH & DOWNES
WACOAL
Affinitas Intimates • After Eden • Anita Active • Anita Care • Anita Comfort • Anita Maternity • Antigel by Lise Charmel • Antigel Swimwear by Lise Charmel • Antinea by Lise Charmel • Berlei • Bestform Aquasculpting • Bestform Lingerie • Blackspade • Bodywrap • Boobs & Bloomers • Brettles • B’temptd • Charmline Bodycontrol • Charmline Swim • Charnos • Chilprufe • Clara Rossi Silk • Cleo by Panache • Cleo Swim by Panache • Clover Lewis Swimwear • Continental Textiles • Conturelle by Felina • Cottonreal Collection • Cottonreal Lingerie • cuddleduds Sports Layer • Cupid Shapewear • Curvy Kate • Cyberjammies • David Swimwear • DKNY Lingerie • DKNY Loungewear • DKNY Sleepwear • Eberjey • Elomi • Elomi Swimwear • Empreinte • Eprise by Lise Charmel • Epure by Lise Charmel • Eva • Fantasie • Fantasie Swimwear • Fashion Forms • Fauve • Felina • Fordville • Freya • Freya Active • Freya Lounge • Gaspe • Ginia Swim • Goddess • Gossard • Gottex • GTX • Guy de France • Haigman • Hanro • Harvey James • Helen Lingerie • Helen Mare • Hot Honi Swimwear • Hue • Huit • Huit Swimwear • Indigo Sky Nightwear • Ino Gottex Innovation • Inspirations • Irma La Douce • Kiku Design • La Marquise by Lamatex • Lady Selena • Laurence Tavernier • Le Mystere Lingerie • Lepel • Lidea Swim • Limoncello • LingaDore • Lise Charmel Lingerie • Lise Charmel Swimwear • LOU • Loungeable • Luna di Seta • Magic Body Fashion • Maidenform • Maison Close • Marjolaine • Marlon • Marsylka • Maryan Swim • Mey Bodywear • MICHAEL Michael Kors Swimwear • Michelle Morren • Millesia • Miraclesuit Shapewear • Miraclesuit Swimwear • Moontide • Nansu • Natmen
PROMOTION —
RUNWAY ASPIRATIONS Real designs are brought to life on the catwalk, elevating the best of s/s 16 to a real-time fashion showcase. Spot the trends, get merchandise-inspired and take home the best of the season to replicate in-store next spring. —
FREYA
FANTASIE
BE2B Having relocated to its own high-profile area immediately adjacent to the footwear catwalk, the BE2B hub strengthens its position as the industry’s go-to area for retail expertise. Hosting industry experts such as multi-channel software provider Touchretail, stock management and Epos expert Top to Toe and 360 degree product photography specialist Orbitvu, the area provides cutting-edge solutions for the contemporary retailer. — RAISE A GLASS As the industry’s national event, Moda Woman goes beyond the aisles to offer an unrivalled opportunity to network with like-minded professionals. From the complimentary drinks reception at the end of day one to socialising after-hours, the show is the essential meeting place for all aspects of the trade. —
AFFINITAS
MOONTIDE
NAOMI & NICOLE
SEAFOLLY
DKNY
SCANTILLY
MILLESIA
• Naturana • Network Dessous • Nickey Nobel • Nora Rose • Opera • Oyster Bay Beachwear • Palm Beach • Panache Black • Panache Lingerie • Panache Sport • Panache Swim • Parfait • Piha • Pia Rossini • Pill • Pour Moi! • Profile by Gottex • Ringella • Roidal • Rosa faia • Rosy • Sans Complex • Scantilly • Sculptresse • Seafolly • Seaspray • Selena Secrets • Signature by After Eden • Silhouette • Simply Silk…by Cottonreal • Slenderella • Smith & Downes • South Beach • Sparkle Mode • Sunflair • Susa • Taubert • Tessy by Roidal • The Swimwear Yearbook • Tutti Rouge • Un:usual • Underlines • Vanilla Night & Day • Vanity Fair • Vannina Vesperini • Vedonis • VFB Intimates UK • Vivis • Wacoal • Waite’s • Watercult • Xpanda Bra
REGISTER FOR YOUR FREE TICKET AT MODA-UK.CO.UK
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Backstage
The events, campaigns and parties not to miss
01/
01/ SHOPPING EXTRAVAGANZA London’s Carnaby area recently played host to the ultimate tech-led experiential shopping party across its 13 streets. One of the biggest events of the year, the shopping extravaganza saw a 21 per cent uplift in footfall. A range of activities took place on the day, including shoppers re-designing the iconic Carnaby arch on the YrWall digital graffiti wall, as well as a giant interactive screen on Carnaby Street, which allowed shoppers who used #Carnaby on social media to see their photos and posts on the live screen. Customers were also able to experience virtual shopping thanks to the touch-screen podiums showing full-size, digital mannequins in 4K resolution.
03/ JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN RECEIVES ACCOLADE Knitwear and tweed brand Johnstons of Elgin has been awarded the Investors in Young People (IIYP) accreditation for its commitment to employing young people. An initiative from Investors in People Scotland, the IIYP scheme is supported by £1m funding from the Scottish government. To mark the occasion, Angus Robertson MP, the SNP’s Westminster group leader (pictured with Chris Gaffney, group finance director of Johnstons of Elgin; Megan George, buying & merchandising; Beth Pickup, HR apprentice; and Wayne Brown, dye-house apprentice), was in attendance, to present the brand with the accolade.
02/ TOM JOULE SHORT-LISTED FOR CEO OF THE YEAR Tom Joule (pictured), CEO and founder of British lifestyle brand Joules, has been short-listed for the CEO of the Year Award at the PWC UK Private Business Awards. Now in its fifth year, the event celebrates success and achievement within private businesses in the UK, recognising the UK’s most successful private companies, entrepreneurs and management teams. Finalists will be announced on 30 September. “I’m proud to take a role in encouraging and motivating our teams, and feel honoured to have been recognised on the short-list,” says Joule.
04/ MIDSUMMER CELEBRATION RAISES £90K Last month’s Midsummer Celebration (formerly the Great Northern Ball) hosted by the Retail Trust in the beautiful surroundings of Manchester Cathedral, raised £90,000 for the charity. More than 250 guests from the world of retail dug deep to donate to the many worthy causes and projects the Retail Trust supports. Richard Boland (pictured), CEO of the Retail Trust, says, “We enjoyed a great night at Manchester Cathedral, and the northern retail sector should be proud of its generosity and support. We’d like to express many thanks to all those involved.” 02/
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www.sandcopenhagen.com
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One piece performance Innovative shirt and blouse specialist Milano Italy has joined forces with F.O.S Fashion Marketing, and is set to take the UK and Irish markets by storm thanks to a winning product category at irresistible prices using top-quality fabrics – all made in Europe.
The growth for this discerning brand has been astounding in parts of Europe over the past 18 months or so, and is due largely to the introduction of head of brand Karen Dammer, who has transformed the image and the overall look of the label. Formerly of Luisa Cerano, Turnover and German store group Peek and Cloppenburg, Dammer has worked tirelessly to create a beautiful concept and a refinement to Milano Italy. “New account openings for last season and particularly from the last Berlin Panorama trade fair were nothing short of extraordinary,” says Dammer. “And the new concept has been received to great acclaim from the buyers. We are so excited about s/s 16 and, if you take a look at our website, www.milano-italy.com, you will see a video of our s/s 16 collection – it is exquisite.” Commenting on her decision to team up with F.O.S Fashion Marketing, she says, “I’ve known Chris for years, from when we were both involved with the brand Turnover, and I know he is a great believer in single product brands and one piece performance, having run Mac jeans and Repeat knitwear for many years. I’m delighted to join forces with Chris again for Milano Italy – he is the best.” Chris adds, “At F.O.S Fashion Marketing, we are indeed firm believers in single product brands given the amount of piece buying now being made by the consumer. Mac and Repeat have been hugely successful, and Milano Italy will be the same, I’m sure. Jeans, knitwear and now shirts/blouses – it’s a perfect combination. While coordinated brands are of equal importance to the retailer for outfit buying, statistics back up our philosophy and approach to show both genres to our retailers visiting F.O.S Fashion Marketing.” Selling dates: 14 July – 26 August For UK/Ireland, contact: Chris Foster-Orr, Jacky Keller or Christopher Foster-Orr 020 7636 7111 Showroom UK/Ireland F.O.S Fashion Marketing, 4th floor Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF info@fosfashion.co.uk www.milano-italy.com
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Talking Point
Your views on the issues shaping the industry The agent view: Is your supplier brand giving you added value?
As online trading has enhanced and challenged the retail industry, sectors have fragmented or fused, and the supplier-retailer dynamic has become all the more critical to both parties’ success. I often wonder if our independent retailers are aware of the support available to them from their brands, from placing their order through to after-sales support. When we go into partnership with a retailer, we are entering into a relationship that thrives on
The retailer view: An ethical focus makes good business sense.
mutual benefit. We consider it a privilege to be involved with the retailer’s business, and it is our duty to ensure that the stake they have taken in our brand is rewarded and supported. I can understand that it’s a scary prospect for a retailer, taking on a new brand, especially when you’re a small business with all the usual overheads and uncertainties. However, we try to allay those concerns and work as a partnership with those retailers, which are effectively the link to our end customer. They are representing our brand and deserve our support. It’s saddening to think of cases where retailers are neglected by their brands after placing an order. It doesn’t take a retail expert to see that both parties will benefit, or suffer, from the other’s fate. So it figures that the brand would want to ensure the retailer succeeds and achieves the best sellthrough possible, the optimum representation of the brand and the most positive experience for themselves and their customers. As a matter of course, we offer a full-service experience to our retailers from the point of launch through to after-sales support. When taking on a new brand, retailers can really benefit from a hands-on, on-site presence in organising
an event to launch the collection to the public. Whether this involves a champagne reception, a charity raffle or a fashion show depends on the shop, but it’s important that the brand or agency is there to assist and make sure our customer receives the same level of service that they give their own customers. It’s a no-brainer. Likewise with stock swaps. We want our customer to achieve a strong sell-through, and to do that they need the right styles for their store. It’s not a science, and sometimes it’s far better to swap styles when a range isn’t performing well rather than wait until it’s the end of the season. While marketing has become less expensive with the advent of social media, there is still a need for traditional advertising locally. As a retailer, do you receive support from your brand for marketing its collection? Besides quality images, there is a lot of help on offer if you ask. As with any relationship, mutual support and flexibility are fundamental to the longevity of a retailer-supplier partnership. We want you to sell our brand, so we will give you the help you need to do just that.
I began working in the fashion industry in the late 60s, firstly as a representative and, from the early 70s onwards, with my wife Lynden, as an agent and distributor serving fashion outlets in East Anglia and beyond. In October 2006, we became involved with Danish concept clothing company The Earth Collection, and were part of a group of around 500 retail shops worldwide. Four years ago we decided to venture alone and set up The Good Earth Clothing Company. It was an obvious decision to make since our background in the trade meant that we had made many friends and acquaintances of suppliers and agents over the years. These close relationships initially allowed us to establish our new-found business rapidly with instant success. Brands such as Adini, Fenella, La Naturelle and Seasalt do well for us. While these and other major labels are well represented in Norfolk, all but one of our suppliers gives us exclusivity in Norwich. This, of course, is a great advantage for us, as Norwich and the award-winning Norwich Lanes, where we are situated, is the central focus for shopping in Norfolk. Stocking a great selection of leading ethical clothing
brands, specialising in clothing made from natural fabrics such as cotton, linen, hemp etc and selling at perceived value for money prices is key for us. These core brands serve as our benchmark, and we use trade shows to top up and introduce something different to the shop floor every season. We do feel strongly about ethical fashion, and try hard to live up to our name, but we’ve also been in the trade long enough to realise there are limitations to being too evangelical about these things. Without doubt our strongest selling label is Adini, which has discovered the essence of its brand DNA, exploring the construction of methods once used and blending elements of current trends bringing their brand right up-to-date. Much to the brand’s credit, it is distinctive and relevant in today’s fiercely competitive market. We can honestly say we love all aspects of this industry. We’ve made many friends over the years and can’t imagine retiring – well not in the near future.
Michael Shalders is the co-owner of London fashion distribution agency LoveBrandsUK.
Richard Harvey and his wife Lynden are the founders and owners of The Good Earth Clothing Company in Norwich, and are members of FAB. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk
www.saharalondon.com View our SS16 Collections: PURE, MODA, INDX & by appointment at our Chiltern Street Showroom Become a stockist: wholesale@saharalondon.com | T: 020 7483 8438 | London showroom by appt only: 40 Chiltern Street, London W1U 7QN
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Separates for every occasion Mainstream brand Apanage is leading the way with an ever-inspirational separates collection for s/s 16. Apanage of course started off purely as a separates collection, before a dedicated dress range – Apanage Femme – was introduced several years ago. Much praise has been heaped on the label over the years, with the dress collection in particular having made headlines in what has been a “dress era” of late. While dresses continue to be hugely successful for Apanage, the brand’s main line, Apanage Collection, which specialises in separates, enjoyed a huge resurgence at retail level for s/s 15, with exceptional sell-throughs as a result. “There is definitely a feeling from within our camp that the separates business is on the up after several years of dresses being at the forefront and somewhat overshadowing the commercial appeal of coordinated separates,” says Chris Foster-Orr, director of F.O.S Fashion Marketing “For s/s 16, you can expect a more inspirational separates collection from Apanage with a higher degree of fashion content, combining both the sporty element with an overriding feel of femininity, which is so important to the UK and Ireland.” The styles pictured give a small taste of what to expect from the Apanage collection for s/s 16. In addition, some more
exciting news for the season ahead comes from Apanage Femme, with the launch of Apanage Noir – a capsule occasion dress line to run alongside the dress collection. For s/s 16, there will be three themed sets orientated towards confirmations, weddings and summer balls, with a variety of styles to complement the main offer. There is no doubt that the Apanage showroom should be quite the place to be for inspiration when it comes to s/s 16. Selling dates: Prog 1: 7 July – 31 July Prog 2: 2 August – 3 September Contact: Chris Foster-Orr or Aimee Brown 020 7636 7111 info@fosfashion.co.uk F.O.S Fashion Marketing, 4th floor Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF
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As the owner of Ghost and Hawes & Curtis, Touker Suleyman has a reputation for turning faltering businesses around. Now on The Sunday Times Rich List, Suleyman will see the relaunch of Ghost coincide with his Dragon’s Den debut. Tom Bottomley talks to the man set for the spotlight. Tom Bottomley: What’s your background in the fashion business? Touker Suleyman: I’ve been in the business for nearly 40 years, initially predominantly as a manufacturer for the high street. If you read my life story, you’ll see that at one point in the 80s I had two public companies that collapsed for various reasons, and I had to start all over again. The manufacturing part of the business still continues today, with Marks & Spencer our biggest customer. I manufacture out of Turkey, Bulgaria and Georgia. We have a good partnership with M&S that’s been built up over the years, and we make a quality product. It works, it’s as simple as that. TB: What came before that? TS: Before M&S came along, I was approached by Ralph Lauren to make shirts for the label in Turkey for its European operation, with its headquarters in Paris. We did it very successfully, but the brand decided to move all the production to the Far East. However, the experience gave me an insight into shirts. I’d always loved shirts as a consumer, with Etro being a favourite. So I approached Hawes & Curtis when I heard it was for sale. I bought it for £1, and took on all the debt, which was around £500,000. I refinanced it with creditors, at a time when it only had one little corner shop on Jermyn Street, but a great heritage as an iconic British brand. TB: How did you turn it around? TS: I soon realised that in order to be a player, you have to have scale. Fortunately I was a manufacturer with sourcing expertise, and I could initially make small quantities and build it up gradually to a much greater scale. Up to now, Hawes & Curtis has been a shirt brand, but we’re turning it into more of a lifestyle label, with a broader spectrum of products – including knitwear for women. There are now 28 Hawes & Curtis stores and it’s all about great product, but also great prices because we make it ourselves. The first price is the right price. TOUKER SULEYMAN CHAIRMAN OF FASHION MANUFACTURER LOW PROFILE HOLDINGS, AND OWNER OF BRANDS GHOST AND HAWES & CURTIS
TB: What’s the connection with Ghost? TS: Prior to me buying Ghost, I had the licence from Ghost to make Ghost-type product for M&S. I knew a little bit about
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Ghost, and what the brand was so well known for, and I also knew about garment dyeing – one of the brand’s key traits. So I made similar product exclusively for M&S, and it performed very well. As the downturn in the economy occurred, we eventually stopped doing that product for them. They were starting to concentrate on lower price-point products. I’d been negotiating with Tanya Sarne, who founded Ghost in 1984, to buy the brand, but she sold to Kevin Stanford. A few years later it went into administration, and that’s when I bought it – in 2008. It was a company in serious financial trouble. Even in the first year I bought it we lost money. TB: What’s your strategy for the brand? TS: Ghost was known for great product, but it needed re-establishing as a great brand. I initially treated it as a business just to start making money again, and I linked up with John Lewis – solely supplying the department store – as well as selling online. We started to make money, but I realised it was not about the label, so I re-branded it and made the product younger, and this is where we are today. The Ghost label is probably better known in America, which is where we are putting a big focus to build it back up to its former glory.
four weeks. The wedding and eveningwear markets are areas we feel we should be strong in and be able to offer a real point of difference. TB: Where do you see the Ghost customer of old, compared to the new? TS: The old Ghost customers will be in their late 40s and 50s now. The new Ghost customer is much younger. A Ghost dress worn with Dr Martens boots is the kind of look and appeal we’re going for. We’re making it cool again, but with customers who didn’t experience it the first time around in the 80s. There is a certain brand integrity to protect, but we don’t want to be stuck in the past. TB: How would you sum up what the Ghost offer is all about? TS: It’s all about the fabric and the texture of the fabric. With our dying facilities, which we own, we are capable of doing small runs, too, so the exclusivity we can offer our customers is second-to-none. It’s a vertical business in every respect.
TB: So is this considered a relaunch as such? TS: Absolutely, right now. The store we have on London’s Kings Road has been revamped, and was relaunched in April with a big party. We ripped it all out and started again, and it looks amazing now – with the new product too. We also have a Ghost store at Westfield London, and a growing presence online. Slowly but surely we will build it. This is a test and, if it works, we will roll it out.
TB: Who designs the Ghost range? TS: We have a very strong in-house team, which ensures the design is in-keeping with the brand’s DNA, but we’re modernising the looks. The only real connection to the Ghost brand of old is the dyeing process and the fabrics. It’s a very feminine offer that befits the brand. It’s predominantly dresses, which sell for between £95 and £400, depending on fabric and special treatments. We’re also introducing some great quilted and leather jackets this autumn, which is not a season where the brand is traditionally strong, but there is big potential for us to grow it.
TB: Will there be a big wholesale push? TS: We are wholesaling now, to the likes of John Lewis and House of Fraser, who buy into more of the core products, but there is a bigger push for s/s 16 to appeal to a younger market, too. We also have a new dye-to-order programme, and we have a big drive on that with bridesmaid dresses in 12 styles and colours. We can turn round a specific order in
TB: Aside from Ghost, and now investing in new businesses as the latest “dragon” on Dragon’s Den, are there any other projects you’re excited about? TS: We’re about to sign a deal with a very famous model to do her own leather jacket brand. I can’t reveal who it is just yet, but when it’s signed off it will be big news. There are also other investments in the pipeline, so watch this space.
Showing at: PURE, London Stand J79 MODA, Birmingham Stand I71 For appointments please contact: Joy Redfern T: 07876 333397 Email: joyredfern@me.com
Made in Italy Showing at: PURE, London Stand M82 MODA, Birmingham Stand I70 Manchester Showroom 17th August - 4th September
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Style File
The hottest brands not to miss this month
t LUXURY REBOOTED Reboot is an independent luxury brand based in Delhi, launched by designer Anuj Bhutani three seasons ago. The style ideology focuses on comfortable luxury clothing, with feminine silhouettes key. The label has been showcasing its collections at Lakme India Fashion Week and is stocked in multiple stores across its home market. This season, the brand is making its first foray overseas, with the UK a particular target.
u EYE-CATCHING SUNNIES New British eyewear brand Hook LDN has launched its first collection, focusing on eye-catching classic frames and sunglasses. Inspiration comes from the creative expression of music and popular culture in London, resulting in colourful and edgy sunnies and frames. The label offers a unisex range, with colourful styles and special lightweight properties key.
MORAL FIBRE Ethical fashion house Rose & Willard has launched its latest range, built on the principle of sustainability. The new range uses sustainably sourced fish skin, which resembles snake skin, and has been used as detailing throughout the collection.
t INDEPENDENT WOMAN Italian brand Relish has launched its s/s 16 collection, which focuses on a rebellious rock vibe while still being feminine and glam. The ethos of the label is based around the It Girl chasing the latest must-have pieces. Trend-driven designs that mix originality and glamour with a high attention to detail are key. It’s a modern and metropolitan style that appeals to independent women, not least thanks to its affordable price points.
u WATCH OUT Designer watch brand Olivia Burton mixes vintage with catwalk trends, and has seen considerable growth nationally and internationally since its launch in 2012. The designs are striking and original, with affordable price points adding to the appeal of the label. The brand’s woodland and animal motifs are among its current bestsellers.
PHIL DAY PARTNERSHIP LTD INVITES YOU TO THE PRESENTATION OF THE ALEMBIKA COLLECTION FOR SPRING / SUMMER 2016
Showing at: Gilmoora House, 57-61 Mortimer Street, London W1W 8HS Monday 27th July - Friday 13th August We are also open all through the Pure weekend from Saturday 1st - Tuesday 4th August Please contact Michelle or Helen for an appointment Phil Day Partnership Ltd, 3 Tariff Street, Manchester M1 2FF Tel: 0161 228 0573 / 07968 582690 Email: michelle@philday.net
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Join Tramontana’s journey forward Dutch brand Tramontana has undergone a makeover for s/s 16, displaying a new, more edgy and directional, while still commercial, image and look.
With Amsterdam now one of the fashion hubs of the world, this bold step forward was influenced by the ever-quickening pace of fashion felt in Tramontana’s home market. The brand’s mission statement has always been to design and produce trend-following and commercial fashion in which women feel more confident and feminine while still offering good value for money. For trend-following, now read trendsetting. A restructuring of the design team has brought new influences to the table, as the label’s Amsterdam marketing team explains, “Whereas before the collection would feature a handful of high-fashion or ‘wow’ pieces, there is now a wealth
of these styles available. The themes will be structured differently to portray a sharper, more edgy feel. If we stand still, we go backwards. Fashion is moving so fast and is constantly evolving, so we must take a calculated leap forward to maintain and improve our market share and objectives.” Inspired by the adventure and freedom of travelling, Tramontana brings you its new s/s 16 collection. With over 50 accounts in the UK enjoying the delights of this forwardthinking brand with its £24 average cost price and 3.0 margin, perhaps more retailers should get ready to travel and join Tramontana on its journey forward.
Selling dates: 14 July – 28 August Contact: Karen Davies or Chris Foster-Orr 020 7636 7111 info@fosfashion.co.uk F.O.S Fashion Marketing, 4th floor Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF
Showing at: Pure J65 Moda K21 Email: info@lilyandmeclothing.com Tel: 01566 779477 www.lilyandmeclothing.com
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Fashion Radar
MY SUNDAY MORNING Entering its third season in the UK, French brand My Sunday Morning is gaining momentum thanks to its ultra wearable and relaxed take on boho chic. My Sunday Morning is the second label by talented French designer Virginie Guarisco, the brains behind Virginie Castaway. The name takes its inspiration from the force and authenticity of a beautiful Sunday morning, which translates into a boho-chic collection with French sophistication. Sitting alongside brands such as Isabel Marant, Mes Demoiselles, Forte Forte, Leon & Harper, Laurence Dolige and Starmela, the collection uses exclusive printed fabrics from Italy and the main part of the production is made in Europe. A relaxed and understated look is at the core of the label and, although the colour palette is broad, spring/summer is dominated by whites and off-whites, featuring delicate embroidery. Key pieces include light kaftans, blouses and tops in both prints and plain cottons, as well as feminine dresses. The label is aimed at women in the 30-50 age bracket who want simple and effortless styling while still looking chic and sophisticated. Current stockists include the likes of The Dressing Room, Bottega, Hengelo and Donna Ida, with the brand having set its sights on further UK expansion.
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Life’s a beach Beach essentials take on a glam edge this season. Get the latest poolside looks in-store now.
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01/ TRIWA £48 0121 4361200 • 02/ ANITA £33.62 020 8446 7478 • 03/ MI PAC £12.50 020 7739 7620 04/ SUZYD £17 020 8202 7993 • 05/ SUGARHILL BOUTIQUE £17 01273 911814 06/ LISA KING top £29, bottoms £29 07727 624443 • 07/ MIANSAI £69 07983 220354 • 08/ SLYDES £8 020 7739 7620 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
SPRING SUMMER 2016
CIFF COPENHAGEN: BELLA CENTER B2-207 5th - 8th August 2015 AIS INDX UK: 5th - 7th August 2015 MODA UK: STAND J10 9th-11th August 2015 WWIN LAS VEGAS: P503-505 17th-20th August 2015
TEL: +44 (0) 141 882 6743
www.marblefashions.co.uk
info@marblefashions.co.uk
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Return to glory Following its acquisition by Matalan heiress Maxine Hargreaves-Adams three years ago, Fenn Wright Manson has successfully relaunched and is reaping the rewards of a strategy that emphasises continuity rather than change. Isabella Griffiths caught up with the design duo behind the brand to find out what is driving the turnaround.
Fenn Wright Manson is one of the UK’s most treasured labels and has had a huge fanbase ever since it was launched in 1974. After a rough ride for a number of years, which saw it change ownership, its sales plummet and it even enter into administration, an era of stability – and growth – is returning to the business following its acquisition by the Hargreaves family, owner of Matalan, in 2012. It appears the brand is finally in safe hands again, headed by Maxine HargreavesAdams, who has been instrumental in the turnaround of the label. Hargreaves may have learned the trade from the bottom up in her father’s value chain but, more recently, she has made headlines with her own business, coming to the rescue of not just Fenn Wright Manson, but also another cherished British institution, Nicole Farhi, in 2013, as well as having bought a 50 per cent stake in indie brand Damsel In A Dress last year. It was the latter move that manifested – or somewhat accelerated – the relaunch of Fenn Wright Manson, following the appointment of Damsel In A Dress directors Amanda Seabourne and Alison Mansell to design the Fenn Wright Manson range. They have been charged to reignite the successful signature of the label, while Hargreaves-Adams concentrates primarily on the strategic development of the business. And it seems the relaunch is very much about returning to the Fenn Wright Manson roots, rather than a departure from the original DNA of the label, with s/s 15 having been the official first collection by the duo. “In its heyday, Fenn Wright Manson was known for its relaxed separates and occasionwear, and we have very much built on that, but updated it and brought all the elements alive that made it successful,” says Mansell. Seabourne says, “We’ve taken the bits that customers loved and built on them – we’ve refocused on the core of the brand and what the customer really wants. I think where the label went wrong before and lost its way a little is that it
lost focus on its customers and what they wanted, and we’ve really tried to readdress that.” According to Seabourne and Mansell, today’s Fenn Wright Manson customer spans a wide age range and profile, from late 20s to late 60s and older, and what they expect from the label is a high degree of versatility. The 120-piece collection therefore stays true to this design ethos and focuses on luxury separates and classic pieces but with a current look and vibe and styles that can be mixed and matched. It’s about chic, wardrobebuilding pieces, concentrating on relaxed styles, occasion dressing, sophisticated coating and tailoring. Furthermore, the label has worked on improved fit, and is now available in sizes 8-18 to ensure it will suit a wide range of ages, sizes and body shapes. Occasionwear remains a strong focus for the label, and some of the brand’s big s/s 15 bestsellers have been its occasion outfits. The label uses exclusive prints and premium fabrics to create an upmarket feel, with knitwear also remaining a core product for the brand. “Exclusivity is key,” says Seabourne. “We use a lot of prints and graphics across the collection, and for that we buy all the prints and the original artwork, which makes it a lot more premium and exclusive.” At price points ranging from £99 for basic jerseys to average retail prices for dresses at £129-£189, however, Fenn Wright Manson sits just at the right side of exclusivity while remaining affordable, with brand adjacencies such as Jigsaw and the design duo’s own label, Damsel In A Dress. The collection has been launched in 18 John Lewis stores and seven House of Fraser outlets as well as in Arnotts and two Brown Thomas shops in Ireland, in addition to the label’s own e-commerce website. And for the foreseeable future, distribution will be centred around department stores, though Seabourne does not rule out a return to boutique wholesale in the future. Plans for a flagship store and overseas
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growth are also afoot, though this will be more of an organic development it seems. “We’re really happy with the current distribution and, before we grow it more, we want to get the collection absolutely right,” she says. “We’ve got two seasons under our belt, so let’s get a few more first and then see where we can take the label long-term.” In this vein, a lot of care and attention has been placed on the creation of a/w 15, which sports 70s influences taken from the catwalks, with figureflattering dresses, tops and skirts key. Luxurious knitwear with delicate detailing is a big focus, with two-piece sets and matching separates also playing a dominating role. Cocoon coats in lighter luxe fabrics, roll necks and androgynous tailoring feature, with the collection lending itself to clever layering. Sequin detailing on eveningwear and elegant jumpsuits for dressier options make sure the range offers something for every occasion and takes the wearer from day to evening. It obviously helps being part of the Hargreaves stable of brands and being able to tap into natural synergies, a strong infrastructure and considerable resources between the businesses. “It means we have great support and a crossover of information between teams, as well as access to our own factories, so we can be very much in control of the product and can cut out the middle man, meaning we can offer great value for a premium collection,” says Mansell. So far, Fenn Wright Manson seems to be ticking all of its customers’ boxes, with current sell-throughs indicating that the label’s new/old design strategy is working. “We’ve had great feedback from our customers about the range,” says Mansell. “There is a lot of love for the label and customers seem to be really happy that it’s making a proper comeback.” With such a strong heritage, loyal customer base and distinctly British identity, Fenn Wright Manson appears to be firmly back on track to reclaiming the iconic status of its heyday.
Bags | Footwear | Leathergoods Travelware | Fashion Accessories
7 - 9 OCT 2015
HONG KONG fashionaccess.aplf.com
SCOOP SUMMER PA R T Y Monday 3 August 2015 4pm – 6pm Join us for a glass of Champagne and live music courtesy of the Scoop Quintet
Saatchi Galler y The Kings Road London S W 3 4 RY
R S V P : stephanie.cliffe@scoop-international.com
Register for free admission on or before 30 August 2015 Find out more: info@aplf.com /852 2827 6211
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The
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WWB’s ultimate guide to s/s 16 and the key trends, looks and brands not to miss.
Collection news... 48 Trend watch... 56 Young fashion... 74 Scoop preview... 92 Moda sneak peek... 103
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Collection news The launches, product developments and brand updates not to miss for s/s 16.
OLVIS
LACE SPECIALIST OLVIS HAS LAUNCHED ITS FIRST CAPSULE COLLECTION OF CASHMERE SEPARATES APPLIQUÉD OR EDGED IN THE BRAND’S EXCLUSIVE LACE. THE RANGE INCLUDES VERSATILE STYLES IN AN ARRAY OF COLOURS, WHICH ARE DESIGNED TO EFFORTLESSLY TAKE THE WEARER FROM DAY TO EVENING.
KS SELECTION
KS SELECTION SETS EYES ON UK MARKET German brand KS Selection is being reintroduced to the UK market this season with modern and chic dressing for all occasions. Although part of the Steilmann stable, the label stands alone as an independent brand with its own design and production team. Offering versatile dresses at the core, the focus is on sharp but feminine styling with high-quality fabrics and exclusive prints as well as a high degree of attention to detail. Pitched at the upper end of the market with an emphasis on independents that specialise in mother-of-the-bride and occasionwear, the brand sits alongside the likes of Joseph Ribkoff, Frank Lyman, Gold by Michael H and Gina Bacconi. The collection is available in sizes 8-26, with wholesale prices ranging between £39 and £49.
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F.O.S FASHION MARKETING EXPANDS
KIRSTEN RESTRUCTURES FOR S/S 16
Fashion agency F.O.S Fashion Marketing has taken on three new names for s/s 16 – Italian brand Milano Italy, Spanish label Javier Simorra and Brix & Bailey from the UK. Milano Italy is an innovative blouse specialist, offering a range of versatile styles at affordable price points using the best quality fabrics. Javier Simorra, meanwhile, prides itself on high-fashion designs ranging from smart, sharp tailoring through to casual cotton shirting, relaxed oversized knitwear and down-filled outerwear. Lastly, UK brother-and-sister duo Brix & Bailey offers high-quality bags with a focus on practicality and timeless design that won’t go out of fashion.
German outerwear specialist Kirsten is entering s/s 16 with a facelift and new corporate identity. The KSTN logo now has new branding, with a sienna-coloured, origami-style hummingbird, symbolising virtuosity and uniqueness, while the ancient art of origami embodies dexterity and creativity. The new identity has been applied across all of the label’s branding, including its s/s 16 brochure, which was shot on the German island of Sylt, showcasing a new, more appealing lifestyle concept. The brand’s website has also been redesigned and boasts a new look on www.kirsten-mode.com. The s/s 16 collection features jackets with oil-dyed lace effects, quilted denim jackets, laser-cut jackets and garment dyed short trench coats in pastel colours.
JAVIER SIMORRA
KIRSTEN
NEW LABELS JOIN APT COLLECTIONS Apt Collections has expanded its brand portfolio with the addition of three new names – Canadian label Picadilly, Dutch brand Claudia Sträter and its sister label Expresso. Picadilly is built around related separates in exclusive prints and plains with an average wholesale price of £35. A welcome return to the UK is Claudia Sträter, which is relaunching through the agency after having withdrawn from all export markets six years ago in order to restructure. Sitting alongside the likes of Marc Cain or Luisa Cerano, the brand offers a unique handwriting and high quality and fit, with contemporary dressing at its core. From the same stable as Claudia Sträter also comes Expresso, which is making its first foray into the UK. The label offers a strong fashion and lifestyle concept, and is hailed as a wholesale alternative to highly successful retailers such as Zara.
PICADILLY
CLAUDIA STRÄTER
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BLUBIANCO
NEW LABELS FOR PARKERS A raft of new labels have joined fashion agency Parkers for s/s 16. Blubianco is a Made in Italy knitwear collection with a refined, simple and elegant signature. The brand is pitched at the medium to upper end of the market and also offers co-ordinating trousers and additional tops to complete the look. Meanwhile, Scapa hails from Belgium and is a high-end separates range based around dresses with co-ordinating jackets and coats, as well as luxury knitwear. Outfits are suitable for special occasions as well as contemporary daywear. The collection will make its UK debut at Scoop. Finally, Parkers is relaunching Greek top collection Sani Blu to the market. The line also features a range of dresses and complements labels such as Marc Cain, Luisa Cerano and Riani.
JOSEPH RIBKOFF
SEVEN SEASONS FOR PARTNERS IN FASHION
A CHIC “EASE OF DRESSING” TREND IS RUNNING THROUGH JOSEPH RIBKOFF THIS SEASON. THE BRAND IS
Fashion agency Partners in Fashion has added new label 7 Seasons to its stable of brands for s/s 16. The label was launched in 2013 by outerwear specialist Umlauf & Klein as a younger and more directional range than the main brand. The result is a contemporary collection comprising around 50 pieces, combining creative design and functionality. Key items include jackets and coats, with retail prices ranging between £129 and £189.
EMBRACING MORE SOFTENED AND DRAPED SILHOUETTES WITH SHEER LAYERS AND OVERLAPPING ASYMMETRIC LINES. SPECIAL DESIGN FEATURES SUCH AS NOVELTY FRINGE TRIM, ZIPS AND GOLD HARDWARE HAVE BEEN ADDED TO THE MIX.
7 SEASONS
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SMASHED LEMON
ATELIER GARDEUR
SMASHED LEMON JOINS CAROL C COLLECTIONS
GARDEUR PULLS G-DESIGN
Amsterdam label Smashed Lemon is joining the stable at Carol C Collections this season. The range offers a strong selection of separates, including tunics, blouses, skirts, blazers, tops, jackets, trousers and knitwear in an array of signature prints and vibrant colours. A hint of vintage and retro influences run through the collection with styles that will take the wearer from the office to weekend dressing.
German trouser specialist Gardeur is discontinuing its progressive premium collection G-Design to focus on its core label Atelier Gardeur. The move is part of a general reorientation of the company’s brand portfolio. G-Design was launched to create a platform for more progressive and cutting edge designs but, as market conditions and consumer buying habits have changed, these have been increasingly integrated into Atelier Gardeur, creating an growing overlap and ultimately making the necessity for G-Design redundant. The collection knowhow acquired with G-Design and its silhouettes and styles will in future be incorporated into the Atelier Gardeur core brand, thereby helping to further build and modernise the label. The a/w 15 merchandise for G-Design will be delivered as scheduled.
LOVE BRANDS TAPS INTO SPORTSWEAR FASHION
ELLE SPORT
Fashion agency Love Brands has taken on performancewear label Elle Sport, which caters for the increased demand for fashion and trend-led sports and activewear that fuses fashion with functionality. Alongside fashionable, practical sportswear in technical fabrics, the brand also offers transitional loungewear that can take wearers from yoga or pilates to coffee with friends. A range of cover-ups, loose-fitting tops, hoodies and luxe sweat pants make up the loungewear offering. The range brings fashion, femininity and functionality to sportswear, and fuses aspects of Nike, Sweaty Betty and Esprit. Retail price points are pitched at £39 for a performance vest top with built-in bra support; performance leggings at £40; and a technical jacket with hood and pockets at £49. Love Brands will be supporting its retailer partners with in-store events and promotional opportunities to ensure that they conduct the best launch possible, as well as offering a 2.7 mark-up.
w w w. m o r i l e e p ro m . c o . u k Visit us at Moda on Stand E21
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ROSEMUNDE Showing at: CIFF, Pure London Contact: 0045 39640190
LUISA CERANO Showing at: Scoop Contact: 020 7323 6100
Clean dressing Whites, creams and light beige once again dominate the s/s colour palette, making for a clean and understated head-to-toe look. Whether it’s as sophisticated daytime dressing or a casual outfit for the weekend, creams and hues of natural beige are versatile, flattering and perfect for layering. Luisa Cerano has adopted the trend, but has given it its own twist with a clever play on textures and fabrics, juxtaposing sequins and metallics with luxurious satins and loose and airy cottons. The likes of Ronen Chen, Latte and Johnstons of Elgin, meanwhile, have opted for relaxed shapes and unstructured cuts to create a clean and nonchalant feel. Elisa Cavaletti has perfected the art of layering with subtle combinations of whites and off-whites as well as a clever application of lace detailing to make the outfit stand out. Elsewhere, at Peruzzi, Rosemunde, FTC Cashmere and Scapa, a contrast between crisp white and greys, as well as beige and creams, creates interest without going OTT. Go minimal on accessories to pull off this simple yet sophisticated look, letting the silhouettes and fabric combinations do the talking.
RONEN CHEN Showing at: Moda Woman, Pure London Contact: 020 7458 4019
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ELISA CAVALETTI Showing at: Moda Woman, Panorama, Modefabriek, Pure London Contact: 07876 333397
SCAPA Showing at: Scoop, Who’s Next Contact: 020 7434 1994
LATTE Showing at: Moda Woman Contact: 0141 204 0699
PERUZZI Showing at: CIFF, CPM Moscow Contact: 0035 314290900
JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN FTC CASHMERE
Showing at: Premium, Scoop Contact: 020 7227 3131
Showing at: Modefabriek Contact: 0041 417672741 uuu
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OUT OF XILE Showing at: London showroom Contact: 020 8348 2448
RIANI Showing at: Scoop Contact: 01704 823005
Mint imperial Pastels have been going strong for a number of seasons. However, for s/s 16, the main stand-out shades are light and dusky hues of mint. It’s a fresh and more subtle take on bolder turquoise shades, with varieties ranging from mint greys and mint silver through hazy green to pastel blue. Out of Xile, Riani and Simclan have opted for the darker guises of this particular colour trend, while Faber and Bandolera have stuck to a lighter and shinier shade. At Schneiders, the theme is adopted in the form of barelythere green, while Claudia Strater and Elisa Cavaletti are feeling the blues with their interpretation of the colour theme. The trend works great as a head-to-toe option or combined with white, greys and stronger blues, creating a beautiful tonal play that lends itself to both dressier and more casual looks. To create additional interest, layer different textures such as light knits with super-soft cottons or linens to add depth and movement. ELISA CAVALETTI Showing at: Moda Woman, Panorama, Modefabriek, Pure London Contact: 07876 333397
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SCHNEIDERS Showing at: London showroom Contact: 020 7636 4207
CLAUDIA STRATER Showing at: London showroom Contact: 020 7580 3202
FABER Showing at: Moda Woman Contact: 020 8441 6305
BANDOLERA Showing at: CIFF, Modefabriek Contact: 0031 203039563
SIMCLAN Showing at: Pure London Contact: 07770 664977
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Spring/Summer 2016 SIZE RANGE: 8-30 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO — The Gallery - Dusseldorf 22-28 July 2015 Fashion House 1 2nd Floor - Room 247 to 251 Pure Exhibition Olympia 2-4 August 2015 Stand H130 - H120 London Showroom also open Sat 1st and Sun 2nd August 2015 Weekend of Pure CIFF- Copenhagen 5-9 August 2015 Bella Centre Stand B3 – 241 MODA UK – NEC Birmingham 9-11 August 2015 Hall 18 - stand nos I30 – J30 – J31 Dublin Showroom Fashion City with a Special Event on Sunday 16-Tuesday 18 August 2015
LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM: Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043
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KS SELECTION Showing at: London showroom Contact: 020 7291 0522
LUISA CERANO Showing at: Scoop Contact: 020 7323 6100
CINQUE STEILMANN Showing at: London showroom Contact: 020 7291 0522
Contact: 0049 2161965437
MARC AUREL Contact: 0049 5241945186
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BANDOLERA Showing at: CIFF, Modefabriek Contact: 0031 203039563
RIANI Showing at: Scoop Contact: 01704 823005
Sports luxe MAC Showing at: London showroom Contact: 020 7636 7111
The sports luxe trend has been around for a while in the premium and directional sector, but it’s now trickled down into the contemporary, mainstream market with wearable and yet sophisticated versions. As the name suggests, the look draws its inspiration from sportswear, but has a strong emphasis on luxurious fabrics and an upmarket feel not normally associated with such styles, using silks and satins and super-light cashmere to create a successful juxtaposition. Look out for drawstring detailing on trousers and loose tracksuit-inspired shapes as seen at Steilmann, Riani and Bandolera, while unstructured tailoring is key to carry off the trend, as Cinque, Marc Aurel and Mac demonstrate. Meanwhile, KS Selection and Luisa Cerano go one step further and combine loose trousers and tops with classic trench coats, showing how versatile the look is. Complete the outfit with a pair of high-end trainers in a colour palette of understated neutrals or metallics.
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GEORGEDE Showing at: Moda Woman Contact: 0033 147708102
SMASHED LEMON Showing at: Moda Woman, INDX Contact: 0800 612 9009
Prints charming Prints are never far from spring/summer looks, and this season is no different, with an array of graphics and designs making their mark on most collections. This season’s prints provide a welcome splash of colour and vibrancy in an otherwise understated spring/summer, where pastels and neutrals dominate. The palette of graphics ranges from abstract and geographical prints, as seen at Smashed Lemon, Mac and Zerres, to blooms in all shapes and sizes – whether it’s ditsy petals, bold florals or tropical botanics – featured by brands such as Georgede, Thomas Rath, Bandolera, Atelier Gardeur and Marc Cain. At Zerres, meanwhile, tribal prints take centre stage, with the brand off-setting busy patterns with clean and simple T-shirts to make the look work. Printed trousers remain at the forefront of the trend and, whether it’s wide-legged palazzo pants or slim-fit crops, the focus is firmly on the bottom half this season. Fear not, however, dresses remain key, of course, and form the perfect backdrop for lively summer prints.
MARC CAIN Showing at: Panorama Contact: 020 7436 0705
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BANDOLERA
THOMAS RATH
Showing at: CIFF, Modefabriek Contact: 0031 203039563
Contact: 0049 2161816347
ZERRES Contact: 0049 2166919300
ATELIER GARDEUR Showing at: Moda Woman, CIFF, CPM Moscow Contact: 020 7580 6224
MAC Showing at: London showroom Contact: 020 7636 7111
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THOMAS RATH Contact: 0049 2161816347
SCHNEIDERS Showing at: London showroom Contact: 020 7636 4207
New bohemians The boho trend is getting a remake for s/s 16, returning in a new, streamlined and clean, yet still relaxed guise. This season’s incarnation sees a focus on cleaner lines but tactile textures, which allow subtle details to shine. Tassels are key and feature across a wealth of styles, whether on leather jackets and gilets as seen at Thomas Rath, quirky poncho knits as featured at Monari, or as understated eye-catchers on Passport’s light knits. Brands such as Schneiders and Bandolera have gone down the more traditional route, putting emphasis on cropped jackets and gilets over lightweight tunics with just a touch of embroidery or patterned laser cuts. Meanwhile, Cinque and Marc Aurel go for just-above-the-knee dresses, casually finished off with a statement belt or fur gilet, demonstrating just how cool and clean the look can be. Don’t forget a hat to finish off the outfit to give a truly boho feel to the season. Hues of natural creams and browns work best to show off the different materials, but a colour pop of red or blue adds another dimension.
CINQUE Contact: 0049 2161965437
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BANDOLERA Showing at: CIFF, Modefabriek Contact: 0031 203039563
MONARI Showing at: London showroom Contact: 020 7636 4207
PASSPORT Contact: 0049 70316423
MARC AUREL Contact: 0049 5241945186
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MONARI Showing at: Panorama Contact: 020 7636 4207
THOMAS RABE Showing at: London showroom Contact: 020 7636 4207
CINQUE LUISA CERANO
Contact: 0049 2161965437
Showing at: Scoop Contact: 020 7323 6100
LECOMTE Showing at: Panorama Contact: 020 7636 4207
MICHELE Showing at: Panorama Contact: 020 7636 4207
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IMITZ Showing at: CIFF Contact: 0045 96424242
PASSPORT Contact: 0049 70316423
Jean queens Jeans are never out of fashion, but this season the focus is firmly back on everyone’s favourite wardrobe staple. JOULES Showing at: London showroom Contact: 01858 435261
Denim is back in a big way, and the perfect ingredient for smart-casual dressing. Skinny shapes are still among the dominating silhouettes, and work well combined with often oversized cardigans as seen at Passport and Monari. Imitz, Cinque, Thomas Rabe and Michele go for a sportier feel, though the look remains dressy enough when teamed with cute blouses. Meanwhile, Luisa Cerano, Joules and Lecomte are embracing the boyfriend jean and demonstrate how to dress up the trend with heels and relaxed tops. Boleros, leather-effect jackets with tassels and unstructured knits perfectly complement the outfits, while blue jeans teamed with other tonal hues of blue remain a winning combination.
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...simply stylish Take a fresh look at Steilmann... • Softly sophisticated • Contemporary prints and luxury fabrics • Exciting colour stories • Excellent quality, sensibly priced • Right product for the right time of year
The success of Steilmann is the brand’s ability to move with the times and recognise the new waves and trends of today’s fashion market. Steilmann’s designers select and translate the latest looks into subtle and stylish pieces to appeal to today’s sophisticated woman. Understated styles layer and combine cleverly to create an individual look, taking you through the demands of today’s busy lifestyle.
...simply UK SHOWING DATES LONDON SHOWROOM Steilmann (UK) Ltd, Bentinck House, 3-8 Bolsover Street, London W1W 6AB Programme 1 for Spring/Summer ‘16: July 1st to August 4th Contact: Cristina Kehoe Tel. 0207 291 0522 Email: cristina@steilmann.co.uk Also showing in: Manchester, July 20th to July 23rd – please contact Chris Herbert on 07990 570076 The Midlands – please contact Debbie Castleman Agencies on 01530 622966 Glasgow, July 20th to August 4th – please contact Sue Cameron on 07966 622332 Launching Programme 2 at the INDX Womenswear Show, Cranmore Park, Solihull From August 5th to August 7th
Into the
Woods
Young fashion takes on a distinct festival vibe for s/s 16, with beautiful juxtapositions and boho-inspired looks making for a playful style statement.
PAISLEY CROP TOP, £8.90, AND TROUSERS, £12 .50, UNIQUE 21, 0161 839 9494 WHITE JACKET, UZMA BOZAI, £100, 01209 705162 HEADPIECE , ST YLIST’S OWN
LEATHER JACKET, £46, SILVIAN HEACH, 020 34 32 6385 YELLOW LACE TOP, £21, DARLING, 020 7580 3456 DENIM SHORTS £20, SILVIAN HEACH, 020 34 32 6385 BLACK SANDALS, £8.50, JUJU FOOTWEAR, 01604 718604 NECKLACE , £11.56, RUBY ROCKS, 01273 671788
BACKPACK, STYLIST’S OWN LIGHT BLUE CROP TOP, £10, AND SHORTS, £11.50, NATIVE YOUTH, 0161 835 2064 WOOLLEN CARDIGAN, £26, ROXY, 020 7392 4020
DENIM DUNGAREES, SILVIAN HEACH, £36, 020 3432 6385 RED TOP, ROXY, £18, 020 7392 4020 SHOES, £23.90, PALLADIUM, 07585 300402 BAG, ROXY, £18, 020 7392 4020 JEWELLERY, STYLIST ’S OWN
SHIFT DRESS, £12 . 50, NATIVE YOUTH, 0161 835 2064 JEWELLERY, STYLIST ’S OWN
HEADBAND, ST YLIST’S OWN TROPICAL PRINT SWIMSUIT, £31.15, FANTASIE , 01536 760282 DENIM SHIRT, £36, MAISON SCOTCH, 020 3137 3901
DRESS, PRICE ON REQUEST, TRAFFIC PEOPLE , 0124 5 280878 NECKLACE , £57.50, MELISSA CURRY, 0035 30872827957 HAT, STYLIST’S OWN
FLORAL KIMONO, £14. 25, UNIQUE 21, 0161 839 9494 SUEDE AND LEATHER BLACK TOP, £60, PREY OF LONDON, 020 7490 0626 SHORTS, £18, ROXY, 020 7392 4020 SANDALS, PRICE ON REQUEST, HUSH PUPPIES, 020 3376 2740 SUNGLASSES, £12, RUBY ROCKS, 01273 67 1788 NECKLACE , STYLIST’S OWN
NUDE DRESS, £74, BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN, 020 7274 1633 NECKLACE , £8.68, RUBY ROCKS, 01273 671788
MAXI DRESS, PRICE ON REQUEST, TRAFFIC PEOPLE , 0124 5 280878 HEADPIECE , ANIMALESQUE , WWW.ANIMALESQUE .CO.UK
PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRIS HARVEY WWW.IAMHARVEY.CO.UK STYLIST: VICTORIA JACKSON MAKE-UP ARTIST: LAUREN RIPPIN WWW.LAURENSALLY.CO.UK ASSISTANTS: MIKE BURTON, NGUYEN YEATES-BROWN MODEL: SOFIA WOOLFSTEIN WWW.NEMESISAGENCY.CO.UK
Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
WHITE DRESS, £42 .60, SAMSOE & SAMSOE , 020 3137 3901 NECKLACE , £145, MELISSA CURRY, 0035 30872827957
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2-4 August 2015 Saatchi Gallery London
Opening times: Sunday: 9.30am – 6pm Monday: 9.30am – 6pm Tuesday: 9.30am – 4pm
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Scoop The UK’s most directional womenswear show is returning to its glamorous location of the Saatchi Gallery, once again offering an exclusive mix of art and fashion.
Now in its 10th season, Scoop is undeniably the premier destination for directional ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and lifestyle products, bringing together the cream of homegrown designers, exclusive niche collections, emerging labels and international brands in the unique setting that is the Saatchi Gallery. Scoop’s ethos of presenting fashion against a backdrop of cutting-edge art as well as its hand-picked edit of collections – personally selected and curated by the show’s founder, Karen Radley – is the key to the success of the event, which regularly attracts buyers from high-profile boutiques and department stores. This season’s Scoop is offering visitors an even stronger portfolio of brands, with over 250 labels presenting their latest collections at the show. Regular labels not to miss include the likes of Sargossa, Samsoe Samsoe, Hudson Shoes, J.Lindeberg,
Indi & Cold, Samantha Sung, Madeleine Thompson, Hoss Intropia, Duffy and more, with many solely exhibiting at Scoop. However, part of the event’s huge appeal is its wealth of new exhibitors each season, and s/s 16 doesn’t disappoint. Among the brands making their debut at the show are Chupi, Solillas Luxe, Kreis Couture, Kirstin Ash, Marcha Huskes, Sita Murt, Antik Batik and Conditions Apply. Turn the page to see WWB’s edit of the new faces not to miss, as well as an exclusive interview with the designers behind some of Scoop’s most exciting labels. While at the show, don’t forget to check out the current, acclaimed exhibition, Pangaea II: New Art from Africa and Latin America, which will be in situ during the show, and presents a collective of 20 African and Latin-American artists featuring a variety of artwork styles and techniques.
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Scoop New faces COSTER COPENHAGEN is one of the top brands in the Danish womenswear arena. The brand’s figurehead, Pia Coster, wanted to deliver the best fashion for modern, forward-thinking girls between 25 and 40, and has achieved just that with a collection that confidently mixes raw and feminine details. Hand-knitted sweaters are a personal passion for Coster, and are among the brand’s bestsellers. SIYU Founded in 2008, Siyu’s origin was an Art Deco graphic design sheet found at a Madrid flea market, and the brand is heavily inspired by the Bauhaus and the arts and crafts movements. The signature style is based on a crafted design look, with the product selection ranging from bikinis through scarves to shirts, blouses, trousers and handkerchiefs. Clean cuts and a timeless signature that doesn’t follow trends define the range. LAMB 1887 is a handbag label launched in 2011 by London designer Charlotte Lamb, who created the brand with a busy woman in mind. Working in the City as a lawyer, she saw a gap in the market for practical and yet trend-led designs. The result is a range of glamorous pieces inspired by the likes of Sophia Loren and Jackie O, made from the finest leathers around. LULU GUINNESS needs no introduction. The designer has been at the forefront of the fashion scene for decades, and her quirky signature has fans all over the world. The designer’s s/s 16 Eye-cons collection draws inspiration directly from Lulu’s own sketchbook. The all-seeing eye, doodle snake print and lipstick motif combine to create a collection that offers a glimpse into the designer’s ongoing fascination with the human face. SUD EXPRESS was founded in 1987 in France, specialising in the manufacture of ready-to-wear, feminine lines. An established force in its home market, with over 150 points of sale, the brand is venturing further afield and making its debut at Scoop. MERCY DELTA is the brainchild of fashion agent Katie Lightfoot and designer Winnie Lee. The girls roamed the world looking for influences, which resulted in the creation of a range of scarves, stoles and wraps in super luxurious fabrics. More recently, the label has branched out into dresses and tops, designed to suit every occasion. PROJECT AJ117 Melting together a bunch of creative “people places” in a small house at the Freeport area of Copenhagen in 2011, the idea behind Project AJ117 was to create a “state of mind” brand with timeless and everyday essentials to form a casual and cool look. Scandinavian design traditions and simplicity meet Italian workmanship, culminating in a “need to have” luxury collection.
MERCY DELTA
HARRIS WILSON Parisian brand Harris Wilson specialises in clothing that’s easy to live in and relaxed, anywhere, anytime. Soft materials and timeless cuts sum up the signature style, offering a touch of colour and printed fabrics every season.
HARRIS WILSON
PROJECT AJ117
SUD EXPRESS
LULU GUINNESS
LAMB 1887
SIYU
COSTER COPENHAGEN
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Scoop New faces THE ODELLS Californian brand The Odells has mastered a sexy, buoyant vibe with its quintessentially West Coast designs. Founded in 2014, the contemporary label’s aim is to bring a laid-back feel to elegant and feminine clothing. Featuring slouchy pants, draped tank dresses, printed tunics and multicoloured separates, the pieces go from day to evening in effortless style. HENRY BEGUELIN In the early 80s, a group of friends on the Italian island of Elba started to assemble belts and bags in natural cowhide and recycled materials. This pastime soon took a professional turn, and now the brand is well known for its timeless pieces, crafted by hand with ancient mastery. In addition to belts and handbags, the label now also produces shoes and even furniture, and has expanded into clothing and cashmere knitwear. CHARLOTTE SPARRE started her collection as a range of silk scarves, and now offers a complete clothing line. Helena Christensen, Naomi Campbell and Cara Delevingne have all modelled for the Danish designer, who is stocked in over 200 stores worldwide.
FEATHER & STONE is a London premium accessories label owned by friends Marina Gorman and Mia Robinson. Having worked in high-end fashion for years, the duo offers an exclusive collection of beautiful statement scarves and delicate jewellery inspired by the designers’ own photographs from travels around the world. IVORIES Italian womenswear line Ivories designs classic yet contemporary wardrobe staples that are not tied to seasons because they themselves are “out of the time” – an Italian skill and way to conceive fashion. Thrown together or mixed and matched, Ivories is the go-to brand for relaxed separates. PERNILLE CORYDON Danish designer Pernille Corydon’s jewellery collection is inspired by Copenhagen, which holds a special place in her heart. The style is summed up as Scandinavian simplicity, with pieces that are meant to be utilised and lived in. CLEO B is a premium designer of statement shoe clips, sneaker accessories and footwear. Known for its bold colours and practicality, Cleo B also offers a collection of heels, boots, sandals, wedges and flats. Mixing-and-matching the brand’s eclectic range of accessories is the perfect way to personalise footwear.
PICCIONE PICCIONE
PICCIONE PICCIONE Italian brand Piccione Piccione is making its debut at Scoop this season, with an ultra feminine collection based on impeccable craftsmanship and vibrant prints. The range offers a full selection of day-to-evening styles using luxurious fabrics.
CLEO B
PERNILLE CORYDON
IVORIES
FEATHER & STONE
CHARLOTTE SPARRE
HENRY BEGUELIN
THE ODELLS
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Scoop The designers WWB catches up with the creatives behind some of the most exciting labels at August’s Scoop.
MARCHA HÜSKES DESIGNER, MARCHA HÜSKES
PERNILLE CORYDON DESIGNER, PERNILLE CORYDON
What is your background? I always wanted to be a designer. As a young girl I used to draw pictures of girls in pretty dresses. I was good at making things with my hands, and it’s also why I love the craftsmanship of creating beautiful things. It’s a passion and an addiction. I went on to study fashion design at the famous Dutch Art Academy in Arnhem, Holland.
What is your background? I’m a trained social worker, but I have always had a passion for art and design. I’m a self-taught jewellery designer and started up my brand seven years ago. How would you sum up the signature of your brand? Scandinavian simplicity inspired by life.
How would you sum up the signature of your brand? Feminine, minimalistic, sophisticated and timeless. Made to be worn many seasons. Every collection is a product of my passion for craft and fabrics enforced by intelligent design. I create minimalist beauty – a state in which fit, form and fabric reflect a woman’s attitude and unleash her pure beauty, inside and out.
What inspires the collections? I’m inspired by everyday life. The pulse from cities around the world, from nature and architecture to the people I meet or observe from a distance. I find my inspiration everywhere.
What inspires the collection? Women and the world around me. Nature, emotion and art. Space, volume and texture.
What has been the biggest milestone for your label so far? It makes me happy that women from all over the world like my jewellery. And I really like to see how different types of women combine my designs to make their own personal look. This is a great joy for me and matters more than anything else.
What has been the biggest milestone for the label? Overall, I am proud that the Marcha Hüskes label is growing every season, and that I, as a designer, am able to do what I do best – making beautiful things. It is a privilege to love your job so much. What can buyers at Scoop expect from the range? We are very excited to show the new collection at Scoop – it’s a premium trade show in a beautiful setting. We believe the Marcha Hüskes collections will be a great success in the UK and Ireland as the women are very fashionconscious, aware of their femininity and stylish. My new range is very tactile. I want to create a relaxed feeling and attitude within structured garments. The fabrics and colour card are the inspiration. What is your favourite piece from the collection? It is a dress designed with an amazing jacquard jersey from my favourite Italian jersey supplier, a real eye-catcher.
What can buyers at Scoop expect from your s/s 16 collection? Some pieces from the new range are inspired by Copenhagen. The city holds a special place in my heart. It’s a metropolis that has retained its soul. The heart of the city in particular – Copenhagen central station – draws me in with its dynamic nature. Here, all manner of people meet; they leave, they arrive, they say their goodbyes and they are reunited once again, over and over. My new collection is also characterised by this dynamic nature. New ideas and shapes have been included, and old ideas have taken new forms. One thing is unchanged, though – life is still my greatest source of inspiration. A ring in the new collection is inspired by my grandfather and the ring is very dear to me – naturally I named it Grandpa’s Ring. What are your favourite pieces in the collection? My favourite designs are the love sign and Grandpa’s Ring, of course.
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MARIA SRIPHA TATE HEAD OF DESIGN, THREE FLOOR
MARIA VAZ DESIGNER, ALPHAMOMENT
What is your background? Three Floor was established in 2011 – born from a desire to provide contemporary, premium luxe fashion, made accessible to a wider audience. The label is family owned and was founded by Yvonne Hoang. After working in the industry for over 30 years at the supplier end, Yvonne decided it was time to make the next step, by setting up her own label creating her own customer base without the confines of price targets. Like Yvonne, I have been working in the industry for 20 years from high-street to mid-designer brands – which now brings me to Three Floor, where I am overseeing a great design team.
What is your background? My background is in visual arts and fashion design. From a young age, art and design played an important role in my life. After graduating from the fashion design course I had my first internship at a knitwear company, soon followed by a postgraduate degree in fashion marketing and collection planning. I later went on to study art and theatre in New York, while working as a stylist and creative manager at Fashion Weeks and other fashion events. I also worked as an interior decorator. Alphamoment was founded by André Costa in 2013, and I joined the design team in 2014.
How would you sum up the signature of the brand? The Three Floor look is centred around a bold aesthetic; vibrant, confident and edgy. We are known for contrasting luxe fabrics in statement colours, with a playful approach to texture and attention to detail. People are always pleasantly surprised by the craftsmanship of our garments when they see them in-store. We offer an uncompromising approach to quality and design. That is our main signature. What inspires the collections? Bloggers, editors and off-duty models are a continued source of inspiration for our design team. There is always the feeling to keep building on our foundations. Stories and colour palettes come and go, but consistency is key. What has been the biggest milestone for Three Floor so far? It is very rewarding to see our pieces being worn on a celebrity or by the everyday woman. I spotted a lady in Mayfair wearing one of our dresses, and it made me realise that Three Floor has a wider appeal. Our woman is strong, yet undeniably feminine. What can buyers at Scoop expect from your s/s 16 collection? Lots of dresses, but a wider, yet focused selection including more longer lengths. The shapes are cleaner, effortless and more accessible, while inkeeping with the classic Three Floor signature. What is your favourite piece from the collection? It’s hard to pick one. Our Net mesh trench coat, which is very clean in its design, features an added element of surprise at the back. I also love our Seascape dress, which is classic Three Floor in its appeal.
How would you sum up the signature of your brand? Alphamoment is a label for empowered women who like to express their individuality through the way they dress and present themselves to the world. It merges contemporary, bohemian and eclectic influences from all over the globe, resorting to ancient artisan techniques that result in a unique and authentic product. What inspires the collections? Inspiration comes from different aspects of our everyday lives, which are as eclectic as the collection themselves. Be it from personal experiences or specific themes that resonate with our universe, taste and way of being. For s/s 16, we are taking cinematic masterpieces as the motto. What has been the biggest milestone for your label so far? Definitely being featured on WWD as Best in Show at Enk Vegas and on WGSN in its Key-Pieces segment for a/w 15. Having such renowned publications select our collection from many incredible brands was a great achievement for us; almost as a reassurance that we’re on the right path. What can buyers at Scoop expect from your s/s 16 collection? Our s/s 16 range revolves around five different movies –The Beach, Black Cat White Cat, Out of Africa, The Sheltering Sky and The Doors. Each of these movies has a special meaning and connection for us, setting the pace for the different themes of the collection. Buyers can expect a carefully curated collection, with handmade embroidery, jacquards and techniques such as tie-dye and dip-dye spread throughout key garments. What are your favourite pieces in the collection? One is an ivory embroidered bomber jacket with flower detailing on the sleeves and chest – part of the White Cat Black Cat theme. The other is a pair of silk flare pants with handmade embroidery, as well as sequins with a flower pattern.
PURE LONDON: 2nd - 4th August 2015 Stand N80 CIFF COPENHAGEN: 5th - 7th August 2015 Stand C5 - 002 WHO’S NEXT PARIS: 4th - 7th September 2015 Hall 3, Stand T31 LONDON SHOWROOM: 5th - 21st August 2015 MANCHESTER SHOWROOM: 24th - 26th August 2015 GLASGOW SHOWROOM: 31st August - 1st September 2015 CONTACT: Email: jeremy@cates.co.uk Mobile: 07770 934 363 www.catesshowrooms.com www.twodanes.dk/retail
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Moda First look 9-11 AUGUST, NEC, BIRMINGHAM
Next month’s Moda once again promises a high-quality line-up of contemporary womenswear brands, with a host of new labels making their debut at the show this season.
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This season’s Moda sees a multitude of new signings, strengthening the show’s position as the sector’s essential national event. The show returns with an enhanced portfolio of national and international labels spread across Moda Woman, giving an overview of key names in mainstream womenswear, Moda White, a dedicated area for contemporary and designdriven labels, as well as Moda Noir, which brings together the cream of occasion and eveningwear. Newcomers this season include Italian brand Calaluna, Danish label Nü Woman, Dutch brand Dutch B, Boodywear from Australia, Laura Bernal from Spain, German brand Shepard’s, French collection Lauren Vidal, as well as UK labels Craghoppers, Elle Sport and Tymor Seasons. Ronen Chen, meanwhile, is returning to Moda after its successful debut at
the February edition. Joining the aforementioned brands are further new signings such as Cartise, Guzella, Passion, Batela, Popsoda, Spanner, Matti Mamane, Anataka and Unicorn, which will also exhibit at Moda for the first time this season. Meanwhile, returning labels to the show include the likes of Elisa Cavaletti, Leo Guy, James Lakeland, Latte, Cabotine, Marble, Bianca and Marie Mero and many more, making Moda the key date on the UK buying calendar. A dedicated schedule of catwalk shows as well as seminars and business talks – coupled with plenty of networking opportunities – round off the event, providing buyers with must-have business resources. For more information visit www.moda-uk.co.uk.
OPENING TIMES: SUNDAY 9 AUGUST: 09:30-18:00 / MONDAY 10 AUGUST: 09:30-18:00 / TUESDAY 11 AUGUST: 09:30-16:00
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Northern ambition Bringing not just a fashion store but a whole new concept to the city of Leeds, Lambert’s Yard has become an overnight success. Rebecca Jackson caught up with retail director Adam Jagger to find out more about the shopping destination on everyone’s lips.
If nothing else should come from this year’s general election, the term “northern powerhouse”, now firmly in the political lexicon, puts the spotlight on the North of England. In October 2013, before the aforementioned phrase had graced George Osborne’s lips, a pop-up store called Lambert’s Yard launched in a less-than-conventional space – one that represents over 400 years of history. Nestled on Lower Briggate in Leeds, the store takes its name from the Lambert family, a wealthy family of grocers that inhabited the building during the 19th century. It’s thought the Grade II listed house, with courtyard and arcade, built around 1600, and is probably one of the oldest still standing in the city. After years of being left to grow into a dilapidated state, until recently the building had a shell-like structure – the perfect starting point for a retail venture with a difference. After utilising the popular pop-up business trend, a successful launch ensued and the shop took up permanent residency in the space during November last year. “We got great feedback from the pop-up store and lots of interest while we were occupying the space,” says Adam Jagger, retail director of Lambert’s Yard. Working with the original features of the building, Jagger – who has an impressive fashion CV, having held top buying positions at Sarah Coggles, Topman and Asos – and his team created a space with an end result that channels a contemporary heritage vibe. Via a collaboration with art director Jonny
Buttons, worked to create in-store features such as the moveable fixtures and fittings, which allow the team to change the position of clothing rails, tables and display systems – transforming the in-store aesthetic. Split over three levels, Lambert’s Yard incorporates a bar and restaurant called Rare, a retail area and an event space on the top floor. On location alone, it’s a refreshing concept. Leeds has not seen a project of this kind before. Labels only available in London have a new place – a new audience. After all, it might be presumed that a project as ambitious as this should be based in Manchester, often the assumed capital of the North. However, after years of large investments and ambitious building projects, Leeds is attracting a wealth of new independent business start-ups. “Leeds is undergoing a massive regeneration at the moment,” says Jagger. “It feels a bit like East London five or six years ago, before it became commercialised. It’s a very exciting time for the city and for independents wanting to establish themselves here. London’s got its place and that’s fine, but I feel there’s a movement in Leeds.” With great connections by rail and air, the city is a viable travel option for clients travelling from cities near and far. Good connections are important for Jagger, too, as buying is done in a number of different locations including Manchester and London, as well as internationally in cities such as Paris.
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“LEEDS IS UNDERGOING A MASSIVE REGENERATION AT THE MOMENT. IT FEELS A BIT LIKE EAST LONDON FIVE OR SIX YEARS AGO, BEFORE IT BECAME COMMERCIALISED”
However, the main reason Lambert’s Yard has found success so early on is its ability to diversify through the creation of something different from the norm, offering premium, niche one-off brands. And though not ignoring London and the London fashion scene, the retailer has taken a different tack, supporting local labels as well as London and international names. It’s northern – and proud of it. “This is important so that we can keep up with the fast pace of the fashion industry, which is constantly evolving,” says Jagger. “We wanted an independent that was different. We stock premium one-off brands, offering crafted clothing. “We’re very niche and that’s worked for us so far,” he continues. “Our product mix is unlike any other store in Leeds. We’re introducing brands that aren’t readily available to many people who live in the area.” This is certainly reflected in the choice of contemporary labels stocked in-store which, although changing frequently, currently include the likes of Selected Femme, Wool and the Gang, Samsoe & Samsoe and Edwin. Forward ordering of the store’s womenswear, menswear, homeware and accessories range is restricted, with buying staggered throughout the year. This way, Jagger is able to keep an eye on the latest consumer-driven trends. And it’s an approach that keeps the brand mix fresh. Strategic business moves such as this have helped Lambert’s Yard experience success early on. However, the retailer has also benefited from the recent retail investment in the area – attracting more shoppers than ever before. Thanks to the recent retail developments within the city, including the opening of indoor shopping destination Trinity Leeds last year and Victoria Gate, which is set to open at the end of 2016, Leeds is confidently maintaining its position as the third most successful city for retail in England. Although not short of commercial retail businesses, there is also a growing sense of independent ventures, as attention falls on the less commercial parts of the city. “Footfall is low outside the area we are positioned in, but that’s changing,” says Jagger. “Round
here there is so much going on and so much is about to happen that we should see a change in the number of independents directly surrounding us – which can only be a good thing.” There is also a growing recognition of local industry talent; of future designers, buyers and stylists. “I feel there is a lot of up-and-coming talent in Leeds,” says Jagger. “We’re currently working closely with the Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE) to reach out to students and hopefully spot and nurture some local talent, and Leeds College of Art has started a fashion marketing course that we’re going to work closely with. I’m going to give guest talks, for example. We’re also working with Kirklees College and Leeds University and hosting a video launch for the students as a venue where they can watch their end-of-year projects in the event space upstairs.” Local talent is clearly something Jagger and the team are keen to support. One way this has been achieved is through creative events held in the in-store concept space. Based on the top floor of the building, the “industrial craft events” are aimed at the store’s design-conscious target market. “I want it to be an interactive space; a hub for creative people in Leeds to be able to gather,” says Jagger. “There isn’t really anywhere outside London that does this. I want Lambert’s Yard to be that place.” Events held in-store so far include brand launches for labels such as Sheffield urban apparel label Sgr Skl, art exhibitions, book launch parties and workshops. More recently, the store hosted The Leodis Forum 4: The Business of Fashion event, an evening that saw buyers, manufacturers, designers, representatives from start-up brands and many more gather to listen to and to give talks about the British independent fashion industry. It seems Lambert’s Yard’s concept is to constantly surprise visitors, keeping them on their toes in every element. It is this ethos that has enabled the store to do more than just survive its first year as a permanent business, but to thrive. It’s managed to establish itself as an innovative retail concept – with or without its northern tag.
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Retailer spotlight: CHARITY SUCCESS FOR CAMBRIDGE INDIE
INDIE DEPARTMENT STORE HOSTS FASHION SHOW Norfolk indie department store Jarrold presented key summer looks during the Royal Norfolk Show earlier this month. The Jarrold Fashion Event took place at the Norfolk Showground, along with other fashion and beauty events during the two-day celebration. There was also the chance to win £250 to spend in-store and attend the VIP launch of the shop’s new fashion floor in September. The fashion event showcased key summer looks from labels including Esprit, Jaeger, Basler, Max Mara, Joules, Hobbs, Gant, Oui and Ted Baker, with shoes from Van Dal and Moda in Pelle.
Cambridge boutique Cuckoo Clothing hosted a charity evening last month, in aid of Cancer Research UK. Guests gathered instore to raise money for the charity, drinking fizz and dining on canapés. Goody bags were available to the first 25 people who spent over £50, and a raffle saw guests win prizes including a £225 Masai voucher, handbags and Becksondergaard scarves. With 15 per cent of all proceeds donated to charity, the event was a great success and raised £402. Store manager Hannah King, will raise more money for the charity in August during a sponsored 100k run from Cambridge to London.
Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry
Web watch:
WWW.SHOPATANNA.COM
Established in 1994, Anna is one of the largest UK independent womenswear retailers. With its flagship based in Primrose Hill, the retailer offers a large portion of its collection to its online customer. The transactional website –Shop at Anna – is an easy to navigate site, which offers a women’s collection of apparel, shoes and accessories categories. Visitors have the option to shop for beauty products and homeware, and can browse womenswear brands including Rag & Bone, Acne, Bellerose, Leon & Harper and Diane Von Furstenberg. There is also a regularly updated blog section – Park in Primrose – where visitors can catch up on interviews and research fashion inspiration.
GAIL NIVEN is the owner of Just g Boutique in Edinburgh. What is your current bestseller in-store? I’m really pleased with how Skunkfunk dresses, skirts and trousers have performed this season. A Postcard From Brighton is another brand that works well for my customers due to its styling and wearability. Dresses are always popular. How have you found trading over the last month? A bit tough. There were a lot of Sales on in June, so some customers were purely searching for a bargain. What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store? We focus our efforts on good communication, a great shopping experience and rewarding loyalty. Our Just g Boutique Rewards, which launched on Valentine’s Day, is proving popular with our customers and encourages people to return to us. We’re very active on social media and make sure our customers are informed. We also hold events around once a month. What’s on your agenda for the coming month? We will be going into Sale, and I’ve got plans to improve the boutique interior and exterior to make us more appealing and elevate the shopping experience further. We’re also expecting arrivals from our new brand Noa Noa, which we’re very excited about because we’ll be the only stockist of the label in Edinburgh.
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Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears
LEEDS INDIE SUPPORTS LOCAL EVENT LEEDS INDEPENDENT ACCENT JOINED OTHER INDUSTRY FASHION EXPERTS AT AN EVENT ENTITLED “ THE LEODIS FORUM 4: THE BUSINESS OF FASHION” LAST MONTH. THE EVENING SAW A RANGE OF INDUSTRY EXPERTS GATHER TO GIVE TALKS, ANSWER QUESTIONS AND EXHIBIT THEIR LATEST WORK. LEODIS LAGER FORUM TEAMED UP WITH LEEDS INDIE LAMBERT ’S YARD TO HOST THE EVENT, WHICH PROVIDED A DIVERSE INSIGHT INTO THE BRITISH FASHION INDUSTRY. SPEAKERS INCLUDED ACCENT MARKETING MANAGER GRACE WOOD, WHO SHARED INSIGHTS AND STORIES WITH GUESTS, AS WELL AS DISCUSSING ACCENT ’S CLOTHING HERITAGE AND LEGACY WITHIN THE CITY.
EMMA HAYES is the owner of
Emma Plus in Hove, Brighton, East Sussex. “At this time of year I’m busy seeing customers looking for an outfit to wear for their family or friends’ events. However, the interferers are out again this year. An interferer is a person who takes it upon themselves to tell someone else what to wear. There is a wide continuum of people on this spectrum ranging, at one extreme, from a bride who has dictated the exact outfit colour for her guests, to the more modest requirement of some family members that “mum really shouldn’t wear black again”, and shouldn’t wear the same colour as the groom’s mother. In the plus-size business (my speciality), it can be hard enough to find something that a woman feels happy, attractive, fashionable and comfortable in. Adding to the fact that it has to be purple, or cannot be pink, green or blue, is contributing to a whole new area of difficulty.”
BOUTIQUE HOLDS IN-STORE EVENT Nottingham independent store Boutique 11 invited guests to shop while drinking bubbly at the shop’s summer event earlier this month. Following on from the previous success of an event at the store in April, guests were invited back once again to browse new brands. The teams from Neal’s Yard and Clarins were also on hand to demonstrate and sell beauty products throughout the evening.
Q&A:
What’s your best tip to survive trade-show season?
DIANE ALLAN
ROSE HORSFIELD
DERYANE TADD
ANNAMARIA QUINN
Co-owner, Algarde, Biggar, South Lanarkshire
Owner, Pookie, Harrogate, North Yorkshire, and Silkstone, South Yorkshire
Owner, The Dressing Room, St Albans
Owner, Katwalk Casa, Royal Wootton Bassett
“Preparation is key for me. I always go equipped with my budgets and sell-throughs for the season, a list of what I am looking for, gaps I need to fill in my collections and which brands I want to visit. A decent outfit is always a bonus, too.”
“I would definitely advise anyone going to a trade show to have a budget in mind and stick to it. Buy for your target market and stick to realistic RRPs to avoid heavy discounting early on in the season. Also, beware of too much forward ordering, given the current climate.”
“I always make lists and set budgets. It’s important to take comfortable shoes and keep an open mind for new ranges. And remember to embrace and enjoy.”
“I plan ahead and make a list of new brands that are on my hit list and what stand they will be on, and visit these first. I always arrive at opening time and on the first day of the show to beat the rush, ensuring I have the best chance to secure the brand in my area before other buyers get there.”
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E-tail Clinic
Web chat:
Essential e-commerce advice The expert view: How to harness the power of visual social media In-store, shopping for clothes is a visual experience – from flicking through rails to looking at what other shoppers are wearing. But shopping on the high street is also a social experience, too. And it doesn’t make sense for online shopping to be any different. Shoppers still want to be inspired by what they see and be able to discuss the products they like. Below are ways in which retailers can use visual social networks Instagram and Pinterest to engage shoppers online. INSTAGRAM In the age of the selfie, shoppers love to feel part of something by sharing their own photos – with themselves as the fashion model. That’s where Instagram comes into its own for fashion retailers. Encouraging user-generated content (UGC) with competitions is a great way to engage with shoppers. But it also creates a catalogue of your products, as worn by your customers. With social proof an increasingly important part of the purchase decision, many customers want to see your clothes worn and recommended by real people – and Instagram is the perfect platform for this. Beyond UGC, retailers can use Instagram to create lifestyle content. For instance, Nike Women has a shoppable Instagram store (using third-party services), which shares visual content around fitness and exercise, along with fashion photography. The aim is to inspire shoppers and make it easy to purchase – by allowing customers to add products to their shopping basket directly from Instagram. However, using Instagram as an e-commerce platform is still far from perfect – and requires arguably too much effort on behalf of the user. As a result, some fashion retailers have taken a different approach. For instance, Michael Kors launched #InstaKors, a registration-based email subscription that responds to Instagram followers’ “likes” with emails containing further product information. PINTEREST Pinterest is all about images. But where it differs to Instagram is that there’s less focus on UGC. Instead, it’s a network users turn to for inspiration, ideas and to create visual lists of things they want or like. Luckily for retailers, Pinterest is becoming increasingly integrated with e-commerce, making it easier to convert the Pinterest audience. For example, retailers can utilise rich pins, to include real-time pricing, availability and where to buy a product. What’s more, shoppers can receive price alerts for products they’ve pinned – allowing you to market your products to those who’ve already shown an interest. Plus, there’s plenty of scope for competitions on this network, in the “pin to win” format. A great example of this would be Reiss, which offered entrants a £1,000 shopping spree if they created a board called Reiss – Be Mine using at least five items from the brand’s s/s range. The shopping experience online can be as visual and social as it is in-store. While Pinterest and Instagram can engage your audience in different ways, you can harness both these distinctly visual networks to see results in the fashion sector. Alexei Lee is head of social and promotion at Strategy Digital. For more information visit www.strategydigital.co.uk or call 0845 838 0936.
HEIDI GOSMAN
Creative director and co-founder of Heidi Klein. www.heidiklein.com When did you launch your transactional website? We first launched www.heidiklein.com as a fully transactional website in 2005, allowing us to make a strong brand presence in e-commerce. Last month, we relaunched the site with a fresh new design. Now the site has improved and includes updated features. We have already seen a strong reaction to this. What percentage of your business does your site constitute? This year e-commerce will represent around 12-13 per cent of our turnover. Are you selling the same stock online as in-store? The site features the full Heidi Klein product offering, with our London stores providing third-party brand options, too. The Heidi Klein online range covers categories including bikinis, one-pieces and beach accessories. There is also a men’s swimwear section and a kids’ swimwear offer. Elsewhere, our customers can browse through Heidi’s Journal, a category showcasing Heidi Klein products through blog posts. Is your e-commerce arm growing, and what is driving this growth? Yes, double-digit growth mainly as a result of a stronger digital marketing strategy and the ever-growing online consumer base. What are your plans for the site, and how would you like it to develop? We are always looking at ways to improve and innovate our online offering with a particular focus on engaging content, loyalty campaigns and expanding our reach.
33% The percentage of online orders now made via a mobile device
10%
THE YEAR-ON-YEAR GROWTH RATE OF ONLINE SALES FOR THE MONTH OF MAY
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The Last Word with... Cleo Barbour Footwear designer and founder of Cleo B
Name: Cleo Barbour Job title: Creator of British footwear brand Cleo B Lives: Westbourne Park, London
What’s your happiest childhood memory? Beach holidays with my parents and sister in Europe, where we’d build sandcastles on the beach and go on boat rides and have picnics. I also have a very fond memory of discovering an incredible pair of gold stilettos in my mum’s wardrobe. That moment obviously had an impact.
What achievement are you most proud of? My capsule collection for Anthropologie – which was in stores for s/s 15 and will be next season, too. We worked together on styles and colours to create a fun, pom-pom filled collection of footwear.
What’s your favourite tipple? A passion fruit Martini.
What are the top three things on your bucket list? 1. Glastonbury 2. Tokyo 3. A technology-free retreat
What could you cope better with – no internet or no mobile for the day? No internet – I am always taking photos of colourful and inspirational things wherever I go, so I would be lost without my camera phone.
What makes you laugh? Funny animal videos such as the famous panda sneezing. I have a simple sense of humour, apparently.
Would you rather rewind life or pause it? I’d much rather pause it. I love my late 20s – I’ve learnt to be true to myself. There’s no way I’d choose to go back to those awkward teenage years.
If you weren’t designing footwear, what else would you be doing? I would attempt to be an artist.
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