ISSUE 225 | OCTOBER 2015 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
BEST OF BRITANNIA THE RETAILERS, BRANDS AND DESIGNERS FLYING THE FLAG FOR BRITISH MENSWEAR SECRET AGENTS PROFILING SOME OF THE COUNTRY’S KEY MENSWEAR AGENTS
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OCTOBER 2015 | CONTENTS | 05
F E A T U R E S 12
Online Insider Advice, news and issues online
14
Retail Insider The latest in-store news
19
Product News Rounding up the key stories this month
22
In-season stock Chelsea Boy
24
In-season stock Take the hi road
26
Increasing conversions with video marketing How video content can help SMEs
29
Putting the boot in Oxford Street The latest retail opening for Dr Martens
30
Show review: Jacket Required The faces behind the brands
32
Up close and personal Key trends to emerge from Jacket Required
38
British craftsmanship The brands flying the flag for UK manufacturing
43
Secret agents Profiling three of the country’s key agencies
46
Hip to be square The latest move for Northern indie The Hip Store
48
Classic Gift Guide Products to get in store now
50
Contemporary Gift Guide Essential extras for the younger shopper
52
Changing the Base line The international expansion of Base London
54
From Elgin to Mayfair with provenance Discovering what the future holds for Johnstons of Elgin
56
In-season trends From college essentials, to military influences
R E G U L A R S 7 8 16
Comment News Interview Oliver Spencer
60 62 66
Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With‌ Pat Salter
Front Cover:
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Made in Britain‌Every stitch and every thread, Authentically British.
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OCTOBER 2015 | 07
COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y
E D I T O R
Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — S U B
E D I T O R
Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R
S A L E S
M A N A G E R
Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — H E A D
O F
M E N S W E A R
Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L
D I R E C T O R
Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O
D I R E C T O R
Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G
D I R E C T O R
Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G
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Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —
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Last month I attended a panel debate hosted by Best of Britannia – where key industry insiders posed the question, “Can we make it all here?” With the topic of manufacturing on home soil not showing any signs of wavering, it was interesting to hear experiences and opinions from all walks of manufacturing – from tailoring to traditional tea growing. — Held at London’s Institute of Contemporary Arts, The Great British Debate explored the opportunities, limitations and future of British manufacturing and design. The panel comprised shirt maker Emma Willis MBE; Patrick Grant of Norton & Sons and E.Tautz; journalist Eric Musgrave; Jonathan Jones of Tregothnan Tea; Made in Britain’s John Pearce; MD of The Manufacturer Nick Hussey; Adam Marshall, British Chamber of Commerce; and Kate Hill from Make it British. A key topic included the challenges designers face when sourcing skilled machinists and pattern cutters. “It’s become a lot easier over the past five years to get young people to come on board and work with us – especially if you have a young, attractive work force already to publicise what you’re doing – the press love that,” explained Emma Willis MBE. “I’d say I get a CV sent to me on a daily basis now.” Patrick Grant, however, was keen to remove the rose-tinted glasses and discuss the difficulties. “Apprenticeships working with Emma and on Savile Row have a prestige, but the reality is very different in a factory in Blackburn, for example.” Having recently bought clothing manufacturer Cookson & Clegg in Lancashire, Grant spoke from experience when he said what a challenge it was to find local skilled workers, who were willing to work the hours needed. Nick Hussey, founder of manufacturing resource site The Manufacturer, meanwhile, made a great point in that too many parents and teachers think of manufacturing as a poor career path. And I agree. It’s seen as a far from “cool” career choice, and more needs to be done at school level to change this mind-set. The debate covered a wide variety of issues but, in answer to the debate’s original question, “Can we make it all here?”, there was a resounding, “Yes we can.” But it’s having the belief in ourselves, the ability to sell our story to the end consumer and, finally, building a new generation with the skill set that will enable manufacturing to return home. Which brings me to this issue of MWB – our Best of British special. From the labels that have brought manufacturing back to British shores to the indies flying the flag for British retail, this issue highlights just some of the reasons our country is renowned worldwide for its quality, design and craftsmanship. Victoria Jackson Editor
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OCTOBER 2015 | NEWS | 08
N E W S
GANT’S CREATIVE DIRECTOR TO STEP DOWN
CONTINUED GROWTH FOR MENSWEAR INDUSTRY The men’s clothing market has seen sales rise by 22 per cent in the last five years to reach £13.5bn, growing at a faster rate than womenswear, according to a report by market intelligence agency Mintel. The report forecasts that menswear will reach £16.5bn by 2019 as more multichannel and online retailers grow their men’s clothing offer. With events such as London Collections: Men creating a buzz around the industry, men have been able to feel justified in caring about their appearance. And while young shoppers stand out as the fashion conscious, Mintel’s research shows that men aged 25-44 also show a greater interest in buying clothes that reflect the latest trends. In response to the growing demand for menswear, the high street has seen a surge of retailers expand their men’s clothing divisions. Zara, for example, opened its first standalone store in Birmingham, while Whistles launched its first menswear collection at the end of last year. Department stores such as Harrods and Selfridges are both expanding their menswear departments, and designer brands Michael Kors and Coach are making their menswear debut this season. While the menswear market has continued to see strong growth, it has slowed slightly since last year due to increased discounting, with the whole clothing market suffering as a result of the unseasonably warm autumn the country has experienced as of late. Although the economy still remains in recovery, male consumers continue to be cautious and, while they continue to spend their money on clothes, they are also adding to their savings, the report reveals. Mintel’s consumer research shows that 13 per cent of men did not buy clothes for themselves in the last 12 months, a four per cent increase since the last report in 2013. —
Christopher Bastin, creative director of Swedish lifestyle brand Gant, is stepping down from his role after 10 years with the company and three years at its creative helm. Bastin joined Gant in 2005 as lead designer for men’s shirts, before progressing to head of design for sub-label Gant Rugger in 2009 – which he successfully relaunched in 2010 with a new direction, store concept and marketing approach. He was appointed creative director of Gant in 2012. “Christopher leaves a great footprint and will be missed,” says Gant CEO Patrik Nilsson. “For years he spearheaded our design, and has been integral in forming the Gant brand to what it is today.” Gant is expecting to appoint a new creative director before the end of the year. The brand recently announced it aims to be the world’s leading lifestyle label by 2020. —
FRANK WRIGHT EXPANDS INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTION British footwear label Frank Wright has further expanded its distribution channel across Europe and the US. The brand first launched its US distribution arm earlier this year, with the introduction of East and West Coast sales agents. After a promising start, the label has expanded further, bringing US sales agent John Finneran on board for the Mid West. As part of Frank Wright’s European development strategy, the label has teamed up with CO1 SL, which will launch the brand in Spain for s/s 16. “We are really pleased to announce the new agreements; the international growth is a real positive for the label,” says Alasdair Gorrod, brand manager. “The brand’s product and history is a great formula for our international partners and our experience in international logistics completes the offer. Going forward, we are looking to continue our Frank Wright partnerships worldwide.” —
OCTOBER 2015 | NEWS | 09
IN BRIEF
LUXURY SECTOR SEES 12 PER CENT INCREASE
NEW FORMAT FOR MODA UK
The luxury market has outperformed other retail sectors and experienced double-digit growth in orders over the last year, according to Demandware, an industry leading provider of enterprise cloud commerce solutions. The report, entitled Luxury Shopping Focus, measures the activity of over 20 million shoppers transacting across luxury digital commerce sites between Q2 2014 and Q2 2015. The findings show a 12 per cent increase in online orders year-on-year. This is largely due to the rapid adoption of mobile commerce. Fuelling growth in the luxury sector is the rise of cross-device shoppers. In total, 28 per cent of all multi-visit shoppers in Q2 2015 used multiple devices, with mobile, tablets and desktop emerging as the preferred device pairing. —
Birmingham trade show Moda is to unveil a new format for its February 2016 edition, including a revised layout and the launch of a number of new product zones. The event, which takes place on 21-23 February at the NEC, will introduce new locations for each of the five Moda sectors – Moda Woman, Moda Gent, Moda Accessories, Moda Footwear and Moda Lingerie & Swimwear – facilitating easier and more targeted navigation at the show. Unisex Lifestyle, a new area located between Moda Woman and Moda Gent, will launch in response to the growing demand for lifestyle labels offering both womenswear and menswear, as well as Outdoor Lifestyle – a dedicated area featuring clothing labels that cater for the field, coast and active lifestyle. Catwalks and seminars remain key to the event line-up, and will be boosted by a new theatre-style presentation. —
CONSUMERS URGED TO SUPPORT BRITISH PRODUCTS
THE HUB MARKS SUCCESSFUL ARRIVAL IN SHANGHAI
Buy British Day 2015 took place earlier this month, with Best of Britannia pop-up events in London and Preston, encouraging consumers to support brands and businesses that design and manufacture in the UK. An initiative from Best of Britannia – an annual event and website that showcases more than 200 of the very best British-made brands and products – this year the Buy British Day held The Classic Car Boot Sale at London’s Kings Cross, as well as a popup retail outlet in Preston and on the Preston train station concourse. Brands found at the various events included Joseph Corre’s A Child of the Jago, menswear label Ross Barr (pictured), silk accessories design Geoff Stocker, The Leather Satchel Co, homeware illustrator Katie King Design, luxury interiors specialist Swarm Design, and outdoor apparel specialist True Mountain. —
The Hub, Asia’s leading trade show for international fashion brands and designers, marked its successful first edition at its new location Shanghai earlier this month. After four seasons in Hong Kong, the show took place alongside Shanghai Fashion Week in the city centre at Xintiandi and welcomed a host of national and international visitors. The event has achieved a reputation for helping brands find franchise, distribution and licensing partners for the Chinese market, as well as facilitating wholesale business with independent retailers. “Coming to Shanghai puts us at the center of the most exciting market in the world exactly when consumers here are focusing more on independent labels and multi-brand retail,” says Richard Hobbs, co-founder of The Hub. —
FARAH EXPANDS INTO FOOTWEAR Menswear brand Farah will launch its debut footwear line online later this month, introducing the new range in time for a/w 15, with customers able to shop the collection online. The line includes timeless styles such as leather laceups and desert style boots. Meanwhile, contemporary touches come in the form of bright colours, bold detailing and fresh fabrics. Collection highlights include the Margo hi-top boot in full-grain tumbled leather, and the Famous – a desert-style boot with a thick, vulcanised rubber sole. — SPIEWAK LAUNCHES E-COMMERCE ARM American label Spiewak has announced the launch of an e-commerce arm integrated into its current website platform, Spiewak1904.com. It marks the first time the entire collection will be available in one place since the brand launched over 110 years ago, and will act as the first “flagship” for the label. Additional bricks-and-mortar locations are planned to open globally throughout 2016. In addition to the e-commerce launch, the site has been updated, with special features and functionality including the history of the brand, as well as a highlighted product section, updated with new content. — NEW CHELTENHAM STORE FOR JOHN LEWIS John Lewis is to open a new department store in Cheltenham in 2017. With a combined investment of over £30m from John Lewis, BlackRock and Cheltenham Borough Council, the proposal will see the Beechwood shopping centre in Cheltenham transformed into a John Lewis department store. Creating up to 250 jobs, and offering more than 115,000 sq ft of selling space across two floors, the store will showcase fashion, home and consumer electronics concepts in a contemporary setting. “Cheltenham has long been a sought-after location for us, and we’re delighted to be able to expand our reach to customers across the region for the first time,” says Tim Harrison, director of store development at John Lewis. “This new shop will provide more convenient access to our inspiring products and great service, and we’re looking forward to becoming part of the local community.” — FUNDING FOR YOUNG DESIGNERS IN THE UK While the UK produces some of the most innovative fashion designers in the world, they often last no more than two to three years, lacking the skills to market and manage their businesses. To address this problem, fashion business expert Global Fashion Management has partnered with Creative Skillset, the organisation that empowers the creative industries to develop skills and talent. Collectively, they will provide young designers with the guidance they need to successfully launch, manage and grow their own labels. Funding is available until December for selected applicants but, as the selection process takes up to four weeks, designers are urged to apply as soon as possible. “I’m really looking forward to working alongside Creative Skillset with this initiative: we will be able to provide young designers with all of the business tools they need to set up and grow a successful fashion business,” says Thierry Bayle, founder of Global Fashion Management. “We will turn them into ‘business designers’.” —
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OCTOBER 2015 | NEWS | 10
IN BRIEF HARRYS OF LONDON X HARRODS Premium footwear and accessory label Harrys of London opened a pop-up shop in Harrods earlier this month. The store concept, which was situated in the Men’s Shoe Salon on the Lower Ground Floor, offered the Harrods customer a selection of iconic and seasonal ready-to-wear footwear styles, including leather sneakers, traditional penny loafers with leather rubber injected soles and an Italian vegetable tanned leather lace-up boot. —
SECRETSALES FOUNDERS WIN ENTREPRENEUR AWARDS
BUSINESSES UNAWARE OF NMW FINE
The founders of online discount site Secretsales, Nish and Sash Kukadia, were named Entrepreneurs of the Year at the 15th Asian Achievers Awards, during a star-studded ceremony at the Grosvenor House Hotel, Park Lane on Friday. The pair founded Secret Sales in 2007 and helped to revolutionise the online designer flash sales scene. The company now has over 3.5 million members and has signed up over 100 new brands this year alone, with sales on the increase. Other winners on the night included cricketing icon Moeen Ali; author Romesh Gunasekera; founder of forced marriage and honour abuse charity Karma Nirvana; Jasvinder Sanghera CBE; and Lord Rumi Verjee CBE, who was honoured with the Lifetime Achievement Award. —
Over 80 per cent of employers across all sectors were unaware of the fines they face for not paying eligible employees at least the National Minimum Wage (NMW). It is estimated there are nearly 1.5 million workers in the UK aged over 21 being paid on or below the NMW in 2014, according to a separate ONS Annual Survey of Hours and Earnings. This includes 10,000 workers in the textiles industry. The penalty for not paying your employees at least the NMW that are they are entitled to includes a fine of up to £20,000 per worker and your business could be publicly named. The rate increased on 1 October from £6.50 to £6.70 for 21 year olds and over. The three per cent increase in the adult rate represents the biggest real increase in the NMW since 2006. —
CAT FOOTWEAR ANNOUNCES LEICESTER TIGERS PARTNERSHIP Iconic brand Cat Footwear will support rugby giant Leicester Tigers for the forthcoming season, with presence at the team’s Welford Road Stadium, as well as emblazoning its iconic logo on the players’ kit. The partnership is signed for the entire season, and originated from an established relationship between Cat Footwear’s parent company, Caterpillar, and the Leicester Tigers’ first forming in 2008. To celebrate the collaboration, Cat Footwear is offering three new styles, which underpin the “built for it” ethos with classic core styles, Founder and Highbury – plus brand new silhouette, the Interact Mid. All three products feature the lightest, most durable soles offered by the brand and include Ease, which is the latest footwear technology developed by the brand. Ease is the high-performance comfort system within the soles of this new range and is durable, shock absorbing and lightweight. — THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY LAUNCHES LIFETIME GUARANTEE The British Belt Company now provides a lifetime guarantee on all products. The brand - which supplies hand-crafted leather goods - offers the service across its full range of belts, bags, braces and small leather goods. The guarantee represents the company’s commitment to its range of products, which are hand-crafted in a factory in Rutland, East Midlands. The label is one of only a few remaining UK belt manufacturers, employing more than 50 craftsmen in its factory. —
BESPOKE MENSWEAR SITE DAPPAD LAUNCHES
TOM JOULE SHORTLISTED IN ENTREPRENEUR AWARDS
Last month saw the launch of new menswear website Dappad, which allows shoppers to input their personal style preference and shop from some of the industry’s more premium labels. Founded by three women – CEO Erika NilssonHumphrey, creative manager Tine Green and head stylist Ewa Andriesz – the Dappad bespoke model has grown from the beliefs of men’s fashion designer, Hardy Aimes, who believes “a man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them.” Dappad enables shoppers to sign up and share their style preferences, sizes and colouring. A Dappad stylist then selects clothes and accessories tailored to each customer’s personal preferences, which are then delivered to their door. Each customer will receive their items with free delivery and returns, meaning they will only pay for the products they choose to keep. —
Tom Joule, founder of the British-born international lifestyle brand Joules, has been announced as a finalist in the Fashion Entrepreneur of the Year category of this year’s Great British Entrepreneur Awards. Joule founded the company in 1989, initially selling casual clothing for the whole family at country shows and events across the country. Twenty-five years later, Joules is a thriving multichannel business selling products through its 98 stores, website, wholesale partners, catalogue and 300-plus shows and events each year. It employs 253 people at its head office and 1,399 globally. Joules’ impressive growth and unique brand proposal have ensured that it was shortlisted by the judges, and is a strong contender in the category. The Great British Entrepreneur Awards take place on 25 November at London’s Ballroom Southbank. —
TED BAKER TO DOUBLE RETAIL OPERATIONS British high-street retailer Ted Baker is set to double its existing store portfolio from 416 to 832, thanks to another set of impressive trading figures. Chief executive and founder Ray Kelvin said the company will focus on North American markets including Canada and Mexico. Currently, the brand sees 40 per cent of net income come from international markets. Kelvin stated that good growth in Canada would see the company open two further stores, alongside making its debut in Mexico with six in-store concessions with the Liverpool and Plateo department store groups after a successful trial in two outlets. Ted Baker, however, had found conditions in China and Hong Kong challenging due to the economic slowdown. Retailing in Hong Kong remains tough for brands as people from the mainland have been granted visas to come and shop only once a week. —
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OCTOBER 2015 | ADVICE | 12
ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.
ADVICE: SEPARATING INDECISIVE SHOPPERS FROM PROFIT DRAINERS
MARK THORNTON is the marketing director at a customer-centric omnichannel retail solution specialist Maginus and can be contacted via www.maginus.com
The UK fashion industry has made a rod for its own back by making it incredibly easy to return goods. This has created a new culture, in which online fulfilment has become the new fitting room. Shoppers can have the garments they desire delivered to their door to try on in the comfort of their own home, and then a short walk to the post office will dispose of the items they don’t want. While this is a costly exercise for retailers, it’s important to note that such practices are worthwhile if the customer concerned frequently buys several items. As consumers ourselves, we can all admit to being a little indecisive on occasion. What retailers really need to watch out for are the profit drainers; the ones who bulk up their basket to tip over into free delivery, only to send everything but a £5 vest back the next day. For pure plays, assessing customer value rests on analysing the digital data generated by their transactions. Multi-channel retailers, however, must have an integrated system that brings together insights from customers’ online AND offline activities – otherwise they face the risk of alienating a shopper who places good business in their stores. By assessing shoppers’ lifetime value, retailers can start to tailor their marketing differently to the low profit audience. This doesn’t necessarily mean promoting to them less, but changing tact. For example, discount vouchers are likely to prompt yet more spur-ofthe-moment shopping to be returned later. And while some retailers offer click-and-collect incentives in the hope of reducing the cost of shipping items that stand a high chance of being returned, it is worth noting that this is only cost effective if businesses have the systems in place to identify whether they have product in-store and communicate the order to the store so the product is held for the customer. —
WEB WATCH
WWW.SCOTT-NICHOL.COM Luxury sock maker Scott Nichol has launched its debut transactional website, which is designed to be a one-stop online destination for casual yet premium weekend socks. With a rich history spanning over 70 years, the brand continues to design and manufacture every pair of socks in its original Leicester factory. Scott Nichol’s rich heritage is reflected through it’s a/w 15 collection, which blends autumnal colour palettes with traditional country patterns. —
NEWS
M-COMMERCE STRATEGIES NOW PARAMOUNT New research published by the Office for National Statistics (ONS) recently revealed 96 per cent of UK adults now go online via mobile device and 76 per cent shop online indicating that retailers without a comprehensive mobile commerce strategy risk extinction. Driven by smartphone penetration and access to 4G, mobile Internet usage has increased exponentially in the last few years, according to the ONS’ Internet Access – Households and Individuals 2015 report. Ninety six per cent now access the Internet through a mobile phone, more than doubling from 24 per cent in 2010. At the same time, 76 per cent of all adults in the UK made a purchase online in 2015, up from 53 per cent five years ago. “The rapid increase in personal internet access has transformed many aspects of our lives, but perhaps none more so than how we browse and purchase goods and services,” says Dan Wagner, e-commerce veteran, founder and CEO of Powa Technologies. “The vast majority of the population now shops online, with over 12 per cent of all retail sales coming through e-commerce in June. “The advent of the smartphone and access to reliable mobile internet has changed the landscape completely in the last five years,” he continues. “In today’s always-on, mobile-driven culture, it seems hard to believe that only 24 per cent of people accessed the Internet via mobile in 2010. “The writing has been on the wall for many years, but a surprising number of brands and retailers have still not adapted their strategies to match consumer demand,” adds Wagner. “People have become accustomed to the ability to browse and buy on a whim, and time is running out quickly for those brands without a comprehensive mobile strategy.” —
19 – 21 JANUA RY 2 016
THE EUROPEAN MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS w w w.panorama-berlin.com
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OCTOBER 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14
RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —
VIEWPOINT MATTHEW RAWLINGS Director and menswear buyer at Coe’s Ipswich. Coe’s is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).
DENHAM OPENS LEEDS STORE Amsterdam denim label Denham has opened its first northern store in Leeds. The new shop is located in a prime location on the city’s main shopping street, Briggate, opposite Trinity and in close proximity to popular Leeds retail destinations Accent and Harvey Nichols. The 150 sq m space spans two floors, serving as platforms for the brand’s 5-pocket denim ranges, signature essentials, indigo basics and the full seasonal collections for both men and women. The store interior was created by Denham’s in-house design team and follows the brand’s signature look previously rolled out in stores worldwide including locations in Amsterdam, Antwerp, Berlin, Sydney, Tokyo and Osaka among others. “As an Englishman, I’m proud to open our first flagship store in the North of England,” says founder Jason Denham. “Leeds is the fastest-growing city in the UK, and we’re very confident that our brand will connect with the Leeds customer.” —
IN BRIEF TURNBULL & ASSER LAUNCHES IN MAYFAIR Bespoke shirt maker and clothier Turnbull & Asser has announced the opening of a new store on Davies Street in the heart of London’s Mayfair. Spanning two floors and 1,000 sq ft, the shop will house the brand’s readyto-wear collection and bespoke service. The new location is the latest addition to the brand’s portfolio of bricks-and-mortar shops, which include the Bury Street bespoke store and Jermyn Street ready-to-wear store in St James, London. During 2015 – the year that marks the label’s 130th anniversary – further expansion is planned, with the opening of a second New York store in the World Trade Center. —
NEXT UPSIZES AT TOUCHWOOD Fashion retailer Next has launched a new 25,000 sq ft store in Solihull’s shopping centre, Touchwood. The chain has taken up two floors on the centre’s Crescent Arcade – adjacent to River Island, H&M and the recently opened Monsoon. The shop implements the brand’s latest design and stocks the full range of Next products, including menswear, womenswear, childrenswear and accessories. A new shoe room in menswear and womenswear has been created as part of the extension, and the childrenswear department has expanded. —
Having rolled out our Epos system across all six stores this spring, we entered the s/s 16 buying season with far more sales data than usual. It will be fantastic to have that complete insight behind us as we buy for a/w 16 – at the moment there are still gaps in our sales data, but it’s very revealing nonetheless. Variety is essential for us in menswear, since the products themselves are fairly predictable each season. For instance, we buy jackets from six different suppliers and rely on being able to source key looks for specific customers by shopping across several brands. However, we found buying for s/s 16 tricky, since some of the suppliers’ styles merged and the point of difference was diluted. We visited the showroom of one of our core, bestselling brands – a go-to label for something a little extrovert and refreshing – and yet we found the entire collection dominated by blue – which was a worry. I think there’s definitely a sense that the strongest brands have been playing it safe and working to their strengths. When we attended the IMC show in August, we were keen to find a collection with an extra something. As an independent, we value the exclusive access and sound margins we receive with some of the IMC brands. Falabella and Sunwill deliver great product while also giving us generous margins with a 3-3.5 per cent mark-up and a significant discount at the show. Trading in Euros has also been an advantage with these European brands, too. With favourable business terms, we are able to meet our needs for point of difference, added value and quality. To be able to do business with a supplier that is flexible and in control of production is much appreciated. Many highcalibre German and Scandinavian brands have their own factories, which naturally afford them more control over their production, so they are able to be more flexible. For a/w 16, it will be fantastic to be armed with a full set of results and sell-throughs to consider. After all, we may think that a certain style has performed well, but we can’t argue with the facts. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk
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OCTOBER 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15
SHOPPED: GIULIO How was the summer season’s trading for you? We had a really good summer. We continued the growth that we had last year. We’re giving a lot of love to our customers, and we’re seeing the benefits of that. We have a constant communication with them, and not just generic stuff through digital media, but on a personal level, too. As far as the internet is concerned, we all know the beauty of it, and I for one can’t complain about it, but I do believe that people who are focusing on their actual physical business are getting real rewards out of it. — What about online? GIULIO CINQUE, The internet is another story, because we have a platform on OWNER, GIULIO, Farfetch.com which has been amazing. It now accounts for CAMBRIDGE almost 40 per cent of our business, and probably saved our business. We’re currently in our fifth year of working with them. — How are things shaping up for this autumn/winter? Things have kicked off well, and I’m feeling confident. We’re up on last year so far, and last year was a particularly good autumn for us. That’s when business in general really started to pick up for us in-store. We’re ready to do business and we believe we’ve got the right product. We’ve taken our offer to a more luxury level again now, pretty much going back to our roots as a luxury and designer menswear store with the big names such as Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Versace, Dior and Dolce & Gabbana. Certain brands still won’t let you go online with their product, and we are sympathetic to some that have that policy, though the reality is selling through both avenues – in-store and online – is key these days. —
IN FOCUS: NORTHERN THREADS 14 OCEAN ROAD, SOUTH SHIELDS NE33 2HZ
BARACUTA UNVEILS FLAGSHIP STORE ESTABLISHED: 2006 BRANDS: C.P. COMPANY, RALPH LAUREN, ARMANI, HUGO BOSS, LACOSTE, ADIDAS ORIGINALS, HACKETT, GANT, PRETTY GREEN, GRENSON, ELLESSE, BARBOUR, PAUL & SHARK, AQUASCUTUM, NUDIE JEANS CO, PENFIELD
British heritage label Baracuta has opened its first flagship store on London’s Newburgh Street. The concept behind the shop is a fusion of Baracuta’s history and distinctive brand identity, drawing inspiration from the famous Fraser tartan lining. Ceramics, wood and copper wiring are among some of the materials used throughout. Offering bespoke packaging exclusively designed for the flagship store, Baracuta provides customers with their own piece of iconic Baracuta British history during every visit. — IN BRIEF
Set in South Shields in the North East – also home to Barbour, of which the store is a proud stockist – Northern Threads has two shops; the original space, on Ocean Road, which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, and Northern Threads 2 round the corner – which originally went under the name of Edit before co-owners Phil Goodfellow and Nigel Binnie (who met while they were both shop managers for Cruise before going out on their own) decided it was more beneficial to keep the original name. The shops are split between more of a grown-up offering in the first store, and a slightly younger more casual and denim-focused second shop. They sell to North East lads who know and like their brands and kit, and the football plays a big influence on sales. Says Goodfellow, “We get both Sunderland and Newcastle fans in, because South Shields is kind of in the middle. When there’s a derby match on, we have some of our busiest days – sometimes taking £10,000 on the day – because lads supporting both teams want new tops and jackets to parade, and they come in to shop on match day.” The store’s 10th anniversary will see collaborations with key brands on select products. —
BELSTAFF OPENS IN SPITALFIELDS British luxury lifestyle brand Belstaff has opened its second London store – its first in the East End. Catering for a younger, local audience, the new shop – which is located at 16 Lamb Street store in Old Spitalfields – marks an important step in the evolution of Belstaff. “With great respect to the unique environment, we are excited to present a specially curated, intimate store that truly embraces our history,” says the brand’s chief executive officer, Gavin Haig. “If our New Bond Street flagship emphasises the glamour of Belstaff, this store is all about our British moto heritage.” —
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OCTOBER 2015 | INTERVIEW | 16
INTERVIEW
OLIVER SPENCER With re-fits rolling out at his four London shops, more store openings on the cards and one of the mainstay stars of London Collections: Men, Oliver Spencer has built himself a firm and loyal following. He’s also been developing a more distinct handwriting to his designs, as Tom Bottomley discovers. — Tom Bottomley: What signalled the new Lamb’s Conduit Street store re-fit? Oliver Spencer: It follows on from what we’ve done with the Calvert Avenue shop. We’ve worked with modern British furniture maker Another Country, which does fantastic pieces, and we’ve designed a new store concept that we’re rolling out to our other shops. We’ve also just taken the concept into Liberty. — TB: Has the Calvert Avenue opening been a success? OS: Yes, it’s been great for us. Obviously I knew a lot about the history of the store, having been involved – as an investor – with Simon Spiteri and Anthem, as it was prior to me turning it into another Oliver Spencer shop. That was around a year ago. The Telegraph voted us the best menswear store in London recently. Calvert Avenue is a really beautiful street – we’re opposite a church, and Arnold Circus is at the end. The whole street is owned by the council as well – which is pretty ideal. Next door to me is a guy who still covers furniture by hand. I’m all about streets that have a real mixture of things, and where rents aren’t too high. Also, all the action in East London, at our level of trade, happens off Shoreditch High Street. —
FOUNDER OLIVER SPENCER
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TB: When did you open the first Oliver Spencer shop? OS: It was seven years ago, in 2008, though I founded the label in 2002. The first store was on Lamb’s Conduit Street, then we opened on Berwick Street in Soho four years ago. We added a second Lamb’s Conduit Street shop a year later, and now there’s Calvert Avenue. — TB: Which shop performs the best? OS: That would be Berwick Street – it has been amazing; as soon as we opened the door the till started singing. There were no other menswear retailers on that street at the time, apart from a very nice tailor. Universal Works followed us – which was great – and other arrivals to Soho more recently include the likes of Folk and Our Legacy. All good news for the area. — TB: Do you think Soho has undergone a rejuvenation in terms of menswear? OS: I think a lot of brands chose to go to East London and forgot about Soho – which was criminal really. All those people who went out East and opened offices there were fine for the first four years or so, but then found out that the rent was being stuck up to the same level as Soho. So a lot of agents have thought, “Sod this, I’m going back to Soho.” — TB: Are there any plans to open more Oliver Spencer stores? OS: I’d like to open more in London, but other companies have come in from abroad and taken some good stores – which has also pushed the rents up in desirable areas. I’m just looking for the right thing, but it’s tough. Anywhere West of Regent Street would suit us for the next store. — TB: Who is your primary target customer? OS: We now have a specific customer, a lot of whom are media-based. They are all creative and independently minded people, but we sell to guys aged 25-75 years, so it’s ageless in that respect. We’ve built up a loyal following.
OCTOBER 2015 | INTERVIEW | 17
good thing for us. It’s more of the direction — TB: You originally built your name on a lot of we’ve taken the brand. We sell quite vintage and military inspired pieces, how has happily alongside other labels such as AMI, Our Legacy, Folk and YMC. We do well in that changed? OS: When we opened the first store, we Selfridges and Harvey Nichols, and other could see that we’d become known for a certain independent retailers we have good business way of dressing and, at the time, it was very with include Psyche, Matches, Aphrodite, workwear and military inspired. It was stylised Peggs & Son and End. We have around 70 but not overly so, and it was also looking UK accounts in total. The difference, more at the past than the future. These days, between now and five years ago, is that though, we still have one foot in the past, however we’ve started to be a brand that matters to the rest of the body is firmly in the future. people. For some, we are now a brand that We decided it was time to start pushing matters when it comes to paying the rent people. You can’t always go back and look at and wages as opposed to being one you second-hand clothing, military pieces or “I’ve quite like and buy a few things from. It’s a climbed up Everest” type clothing. It’s good to big difference. And we all know how tough be inspired by the past, but some people get it is being an independent. Ten years ago, carried away with it. We have to create our own there was no internet to worry about, so stuff with our own style and handwriting. If your the independents that are around right now handwriting is strong enough you’ll be able to genuinely are doing a phenomenal job, and I get away from the pack. Paul Smith is a prime take my hat off to them every day of the week example, but he’s been at it for many years. I’ve for being in business. They have to be on been working very hard on my own narrative, top of their game the whole time. These people hence the new brochure we’ve done with Rankin are really doing it in a very difficult period of time, yet the landlords are still expecting the for this season. big rents. — — TB: What’s the brochure all about? OS: It features 11 of my favourite customers TB: How is business for you online? photographed in a different way with a single OS: Mr Porter is our biggest account chair – all wearing clothes from my a/w 15 full-stop, by a long way. And we’re initially collection, and with quotes from each of them. It launching a new micro site in conjunction starts with one of the youngest, Callum Turner, an with them that centres around the Rankin shoot actor who is going to be massive – with four films for a/w 15, in a short film format featuring out this year, including Queen & Country. There’s mini-interviews and comments from the also John Bradbury from The Specials. He’s now participants. We’re actually also relaunching our own website this November. It’s a complete in his early 60s, but just looks so cool. re-design and it will be fully — mobile enabled. It’s hard as a TB: What wholesale accounts “It’s good to be single brand, as opposed to do well with Oliver Spencer? inspired by the past, being a multi-brand retailer, OS: Liberty would be our but some people get to achieve huge growth from number one independent your website, but I’m happy with account. We’ve been in there carried away with it. the way it’s going and the new for eight years, and it’s a We have to create look website should give us great store. It’s a bit more fresh impetus. fashion-driven, but that’s a our own stuff with
our own style and handwriting. If your handwriting is strong enough, you’ll be able to get away from the pack”
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OCTOBER 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 19
P R O D U C T
SKOPES FOR SUCCESS With yet another positive season under its belt, British tailoring and lifestyle label Skopes is looking to replicate its success for s/s 16. The new season sees a comprehensive collection of suiting separates, spanning jackets, waistcoat and trouser options, designed to work seamlessly together, as well as alongside the wearer’s current wardrobe. While blue remains a popular option among buyers, the brand has introduced a series of summer–appropriate colour options including coral, pistachio, cornflower, sand and ecru. Natural fibres meanwhile are combined with man-made blends to create wearable pieces in linen and cotton mixes. —
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OCTOBER 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 20
RADAR Spotlighting style
A MEN’S DEBUT
MISH MASH JEANS ESTABLISHED: 1990 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Mish Mash Jeans offers a comprehensive collection which draws inspiration from British fashion, with a strong denim heritage. — HISTORY: Founded by partners Mia Veinedotter and Kela Hoversjo, both Swedish nationals, the brand was formed out of the couple’s passion for high quality denim and tailoring. Fusing together tailoring with authentic denim washes and acute attention to detail, Mish Mash Jeans is a staple of young, British menswear. Currently stocked across the UK, including Best Menswear in Ireland, Slaters in Scotland, TUCCI in England and soon coming to USC online, the brand has enjoyed great success over the past 25 years. In celebration of this, the brand unveils two new capsule collections – DRK, for s/s 16, which is a slightly more premium menswear offer of refined tailoring and lifestyle garments, and LOT.XX which is a return to the brand’s indigo soaked denim heritage. Drawing inspiration from fashion blogs and social media, Mish Mash is keen to stay ahead of the game in terms of movements within fashion, with a design team that keeps its finger on the pulse, identifying trends before they become mainstream. With frequent international trips, the design team interprets global inspiration the Mish Mash way with bold graphic prints, strong vibrant colours and quirky details. The new season, meanwhile, will see the brand introduce technical and innovative fabrics, heavily inspired by retro fashion with a bold “offbeat” colour scheme. —
Accessory label Baily is making its foray into the menswear market, with its debut menswear collection. The collection will comprise of practical styles crafted from robust waxed cotton-canvas and leather. From messenger bags to wallets, the resilient pieces feature smart and minimalistic designs. Cut from leather with a streamlined shape, the smart zipped pouch (pictured) sits alongside an open-top tote in a full grain leather, all handmade in London. —
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OCTOBER 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 21
PRODUCT NEWS Inside menswear INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION The s/s 16 season at Healthy Back Bag sees a refined mix of neutrals, citrus brights and trend-led pattern and prints. A key theme is Industrial Chic, which is both sophisticated and genderless. Greys and neutral tones take centre stage in both microfibre and textured nylon. Other highlights include a new citron colour range for the Great Outdoors collections, while two new suede effect Tropical Garden bags combine soft fabrics with everyday wearability. —
FOOTSTEPS TO SUCCESS Solovair Premium, the new footwear collection from English shoe maker NPS Shoes – parent company of Solovair Footwear – is set to launch on a wholesale basis and sell directly to the public via online for the forthcoming season. As one of the last UK footwear manufacturers to make its footwear completely in England, NPS Shoes has previously operated on a made-to-order basis, but after 135 years it will now release the Solovair Premium collection for the new season. The initial 22-piece collection will comprise a Derby Boot, plain Gibson shoe, Gibson Brogue shoe and Chelsea Boot, each available in one of three leather finishes and three sole colours. The mainline Solovair offering, meanwhile, will expand over time and will see the release of the Heritage Collection, as well as the roll out of a global distribution model with selected international partners. —
STYLE HIGHLIGHT
VELVET UNDERGROUND Founded and run by creative directors Jenny Graham and Toni Spencer, Velvet by Graham & Spencer focuses on clean, simple staples which embody the Californian lifestyle. Despite launching as solely a womenswear collection in 1997, the menswear debut came in 2004, with styles ranging from timeless tees to mid-weight knits, cashmere sweaters and outerwear. The latest collection can be defined by its premium fabrications, primarily manufactured in the US. —
SPERRY X RAINS Footwear brand Sperry has teamed up with Danish outerwear specialist Rains to create a capsule collection of updated classic shoe styles. Combining modern city life with the need for practical outerwear, Rains brings its water-resistant rubber coating to two unisex Sperry footwear styles – the A/O 2-Eye and Cloud CVO. Details include leather and matt finishes with python print on the uppers, a bungee lace for the A/O and waxed laces for the CVO, providing a full water-repellent shoe. —
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OCTOBER 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 22
HUSH PUPPIES £110 020 7860 0459
AIGLE £34 0160 881 3860
CHATHAM £54.20 01392 822982
BEN SHERMAN £33 020 7812 5300
BASE LONDON £32.48 020 8532 0000
J SHOES £54 01858 468123
LOAKE £70.75 01536 415411
CHELSEA BOY A traditional footwear silhouette, the Chelsea boot is a versatile and sturdy staple, with both rounded and pointed toe options taking a stand for the new season. Contrasting elasticated panels, stacked heels and splashes of blue add interest to this classic footwear choice. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
BLUNDSTONE £49 020 7371 6554
PETER MILLAR £95 01908 513910
RED WING £108 0016 513851140
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OCTOBER 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 24
HUMMEL £18 0045 52184832
SOULSTAR £9.99 01623 756644
BOXFRESH PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8371 7554
TAKE THE HI ROAD Hi-tops are best in their simplicity, with colours pared back and detail kept to a minimum. This season, however, interest comes from quilting and 3D panels, retro sports-inspired detailing and a mix of contrasting fabrications. —
ANDROID HOMME £84 0161 312 0123
VOLCOM £35 020 7729 2744 FISH & CHIPS £22.25 020 8532 0000 PALLADIUM £41.30 07585 300402
CAT FOOTWEAR £43.06 020 3376 2739
Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
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OCTOBER 2015 | REPORT | 26
INCREASING CONVERSIONS WITH VIDEO MARKETING Marc Schillaci, CEO and founder of Actinic, which is part of e-commerce provider Oxatis Group, looks at the importance of video marketing, its impact on businesses and how video content not only brings product alive and reduce returns, but it can also help SMEs improve their Google rankings. — Seventy three per cent of consumers are more likely to buy a product after watching a video, according to a survey by ReelSEO. Video marketing has almost become synonymous with YouTube, but not all businesses have caught on to the popularity of video yet. Here are a few stats from YouTube that will, no doubt, pique some interest – six billion hours watched each month, 100 hours of video uploaded every minute and one billion unique visits each month. Video marketing for ecommerce is a means of showcasing products and your business while gaining visibility and using new marketing channels. Why use video marketing for your business? However detailed your description, and no matter the number of images you provide, stepping outside the restraints of 2D and giving potential clients a product video will definitely give them a better understanding of the product they’re buying. Ninety six per cent of those surveyed by ReelSEO found it easier to make an online buying decision if they’d watched a video. Video brings a product to life, providing buyers with more information than photos can, taking them less time and effort to research a product, keeping the buying funnel fast and fluid. Video not only gives eshopppers a better insight into a product, but it also reduces the number of returns. Half of those surveyed by ReelSEO said they would be less likely to return products if they could watch demonstration videos. Video marketing also acts as a trust element, instilling faith in your company, with 58 per cent of respondents considering brands that produce video content to be more trustworthy and 77 per cent seeing companies that create online videos as more engaged with customers (ReelSEO). While improving user experience, video marketing will also help you climb the Google rankings, giving you greater visibility, as Google prioritises video content. According to Econsultancy, there are several elements to consider when preparing videos for SEO, optimising meta data (video title and description tags), for example. Make sure viewers can comment on videos and share them, as the more videos are shared on social media the more Google will prioritise them and your site will receive more traffic. The more views a video has, the higher it will be positioned in search engines, so don’t hesitate to share it across marketing
channels. In short, videos promote a better user experience and encourage buys. They assist in reducing the number of returns and give your company a more professional and trustworthy image, therefore creating stronger customer relations. Retails sites that use videos to present their products enjoy multiple benefits, an increase in the time visitors spend on site, bigger average basket sizes and higher conversion rates. What should you consider when launching a video marketing campaign? The obvious aim for video marketing is to show off your business and its products in the best light possible. The most popular videos are full of information, descriptive and demonstrative, 360-degree views of the products, close ups and action shots. Bear in mind that making videos can be expensive, so ask yourself the following questions – which of my products are particularly technical? Are there new-to-market products that merit extra explication? Which products have a long life cycle and will give you the chance to recoup the cost of making a video? Product videos should be short – two or three minutes is a surprisingly long time when it comes to keeping consumers attention. You’ll also be saving yourself money, as video creation can be costly. Eighty three per cent of internet users confirmed that the ideal video length for them would be under five minutes (according to video maker Animoto). To cut down on time, you can use bullet points or captions in your video rather than a constant voiceover – this will also give you the opportunity to add clickable links to provide more info or take viewers to a landing page. Ecommerce provides a multitude of video marketing options and a number of video genres that suit ecommerce needs. Product videos can categorised into three main types of video – product presentation, product demonstration and “behind-the-scenes” videos. Product presentation videos give the opportunity to provide an array of information on a product, demo videos can be created in the form of product use tutorials or step-by-step guides and behind-the-scenes videos delve more into the origin or manufacture of products. Video marketing can also be used to
showcase testimonials for your products or business, considering that 85 per cent of consumers look for online reviews to gain insight into a company before buying (BrightLocal), a collection of video testimonials can be a great way of reassuring consumers. Once the videos have been made the next step is deciding where to publish them, which brings us back to YouTube. By creating your own channel you can showcase all your videos whatever type; tutorial, testimonial, etc. You can also use YouTubers (YouTube personalities) that already have a following in your target market, to spread the word about your products and videos. Providing YouTubers with a free sample can get the ball rolling and you can benefit from reviews or video sharing (some may want financial compensation so make sure you agree on terms). The benefits of YouTube for SMBs YouTube is the second most visited platform in the world. You can opt for YouTube to launch your business and also to render your business more profitable. Take advantage of its 500 million active users. Here are the pros of YouTube in a few short phrases: • A great way to popularise your product. • A product feedback tool: receive comments and opinions from viewers. • An easy-to-use platform for sharing content. • A great tool for increasing visibility without investing large sums – if you don’t have a big budget for creating videos you can still use your YouTube channel to share other videos related to your sector. • Access to accurate statistics through YouTube Insight. • The possibility of creating a YouTube Ads campaign. You can then target the most appropriate internet users for your business, with a pre-agreed budget. Another great way of bringing traffic to your site. Outside of YouTube, videos fit nicely onto product pages, adding to the descriptions and photos already provided. They can be sent out in newsletters and of course, shared on every social platform your business uses. Finally, don’t forget to make your videos mobile friendly, as 94 per cent of desktop users and 76 per cent of smartphone users watch a video at least once a week (Animoto).
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OCTOBER 2015 | PROFILE | DR MARTENS | 29
PUTTING THE BOOT IN OXFORD STREET Dr Martens recently opened the doors to its new flagship store at 386 Oxford Street, seeing the brand’s famous boots putting their stamp on one of Europe’s busiest shopping streets. Retail openings are key to strengthening the position of the brand, as Tom Bottomley discovers from Debbie Morgan, Dr Martens head of retail EMEA. — Dr Martens has created a unique store design concept on Oxford Street that really tells the story of the brand. Engaging wall elevations give an insight into the heritage of Dr Martens and its firm association with British subcultures, tribes and music. It’s impressive stuff. Boots belonging to Mick Jones from The Clash – which he wore during the legendary punk band’s heyday – are paraded in a glass case, as is his guitar and one of his shirts from back in the day. A real treasure trove. There’s also a new book to accompany the new shop, entitled Dr Martens: A History of Rebellious Self Expression, which features imagery and quotes from the likes of Pete Townsend, Joe Strummer and The Specials. Artist Robi Walters has created an exclusive piece of bespoke artwork, made from smashed vinyl worked into the shape of the iconic 8-eye 1460 boot. Images from the new a/w 15 Spirit of Buffalo campaign, which nods to the Buffalo style movement of the 80s, are also featured in-store. It’s very well put together, and your eyes wonder from one feature to the next and, finally, to the product itself. For any impressionable teenager visiting the capital from abroad or, indeed, their mum and dad who wore Dr Martens boots or shoes in their youth, it must be hard to leave the shop without buying something. Aside from the footwear, which is impressively large and wide ranging these days, including the top end Made in England line (still made at the original Dr Martens factory in Wollaston, Northamptonshire – though only a minute percentage of the brand’s overall production), there’s also decent collaborations
with the likes of Alpha Industries on an MA-1 jacket, Lochcarron of Scotland on wool tartan scarves, Brutus on button-down shirts and a Dr Martens own-label chunky waffle knit jumper in ox-blood – a colour associated with the boots. It all seems to work. Strong brand extensions indeed. Debbie Morgan, the brand’s head of retail for EMEA, has been heading up the retail rollout, which also includes a less in-your-face more boutique-style store launch in Sheffield. She says opening retail shops is still a fairly new strategy for a brand that has been around since the first pair of boots rolled off the production line at the Cobbs Lane factory on April 1, 1960 (hence the 1460 code name for boots). “In the same month we opened two shops, and they couldn’t be more different,” she says. “The Oxford Street store will be the largest turnover store we have in the world, which we’re already seeing signs of after a month of trading. Yet, in the same month, we opened a tiny 600 sq ft off-pitch location in Sheffield. The thing with Dr Martens is although the brand is 55 years old, it’s always been a wholesale label. We have the brand identity and everybody knows us, but we’re young in terms of retail.” The brand’s oldest store is on Neal Street in Covent Garden, and that’s only seven years old. Morgan joined Dr Martens four and half years ago, and there was only three Dr Martens stores then, the other two being in Leeds and Cardiff. A decision was made that own retail was an opportunity to showcase the brand. Morgan says, “Wholesale accounts, while we love them, only take a really small selection of product. For lots of people, Dr Martens only means the 1460 boot,
or 1461 shoes, and that’s it. But we have 500 skews that people don’t see if they’re just shopping in our wholesale accounts.” So, initially, own retail was seen as a showcase for the brand, with only a small portfolio of stores in the planning. However, as more and more stores opened, they saw that they were very successful in terms of sales and profitability. “Our Covent Garden store has a higher sales density per sq ft than Apple – which is pretty good going,” says Morgan. Taking £4m per year from 760 sq ft is an impressive figure, for sure. The new Oxford Street store is trading on 1,400 sq ft, across three floors. Though the ground floor is more like an introduction to the label, with the downstairs floor housing the full men’s collection and the first floor the women’s range. “We decided to tell the story of the brand on the ground floor,” says Morgan. “Customers will choose to shop in an own-retail store because they are getting a brand experience.” Morgan has a lot of retail experience. Most recently, prior to joining Dr Martens, she was retail director at Ann Summers. A colourful role of bringing sex to the high street, no doubt. “A hugely different business, in a lot of ways,” she says. Morgan has also worked for Gap and Marks & Spencer, and spent 15 years at Warehouse. A vast and varied career, which Dr Martens is now benefiting from. There are 22 Dr Martens stores in the UK, with Morgan having overseen and directed the opening of 19, as well as the opening of stores in Paris, Amsterdam and Antwerp. And there are plans for more. Just as many big operators are putting the breaks on growing their bricks-and-mortar retail businesses, Dr Martens is putting its cherry reds right in there.
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OCTOBER 2015 | PEOPLE | JACKET REQUIRED | 30
JACKET REQUIRED The latest edition of London’s premium menswear show for those in the know brought together the great and the greater of the industry at the Old Truman Brewery. Tom Bottomley went along to get the industry word from some select exhibitors at this season’s Jacket Required. — ADAM SCOTLAND
Sales manager, Out of Step Distribution (showing The Hundreds, Brixton, Huf and Rebel8) Why the much larger space at the show this time? We wanted to stretch our legs and present more of the collections. It means people can come to the show and step into “our world”; a mix of brands mainly from the West Coast in the US. Huf is probably our most hotly desired brand at the moment, particularly its graphic prints, T-shirts, headwear and accessories. The footwear is relatively new, but it’s something we’re seeing increasing success with. It has a base in skateboarding but a more premium angle. Brixton is probably our most mature label, with less reliance on graphics and some great hats. What’s new from The Hundreds? The “Adam bomb” and slant logos are still core for the brand, but we wanted to highlight other elements of the line that you sometimes don’t always get to see properly, such as the outerwear and shirting. There’s a lot more to the label than people realise. We’ve grown up with our customers, because we’ve been selling The Hundreds for around seven years. The brand, which is from Los Angeles, is 11 years old, and we feel the time is right to open a London shop soon. —
IAN GARSIDE
WG Flagship Distribution (showing brands including Nowgone Pioneers, Cockpit USA, Richard James accessories, Pointer footwear, Eyvan 7285 eyewear, Porter-Yoshida, About underwear and Japan Best) What’s the newest brand to your portfolio? I’ve just taken on Cockpit USA – formerly Avirex. It’s relatively expensive product, all made in America in the original Avirex factory. It’s a purest product, with some fashion pieces. All the classic military outerwear pieces are in there, such as the G-1 and A-2 leather flying jackets, with or without patches, and in different leathers and treatments. There’s also a pea coat and a super-lightweight ripstop nylon M-65 field jacket with a camo lining. What has been strong for you? Pointer has been really good. We’ve picked up loads of new accounts at Jacket Required, as well as getting accounts back that we’d previously lost. Pointer has got the product right, and I think people are looking for a cleaner hybrid sneaker/shoe. It’s quite simple, but there’s a lot of interesting detail, and the price points and margins are appealing. Porter-Yoshida, a high-end specialist line of bags from Japan, has also opened some great accounts for us, such as End, OkiNi, Liberty, Selfridges and Mr Porter. —
CHRIS DENT
Agent, Red Wing Shoes (also showing Upstate Stock and G.R.P knitwear) Do you now have more s/s options? We’ve introduced suede and leather with a lighter-weight sole unit. For s/s 16, there are two new patterns, in three colours, on US-made stitch-downs – still 100 per cent authentic and made in the Red Wing factory in Red Wing, Minnesota. They’re based on the fact that we needed to do something more for our retailers for s/s, and they’ve been well received. The retail prices are also very good – £189 for the shoes and £199 for the chukka boots. The “rough ’n’ tough” leather is proving particularly popular. Is the footwear accessories side growing? Over the last 18 months, the accessories have gone through the roof. We’ve sold items such as leather conditioners, mink oil, creams and laces individually but, at the back end of last year, we introduced care kits. They retail together in a box with a brush and buffing cloth for £30, which is great value, and we did 1,000 boxes in the first three months. We’re expecting a busy Christmas with them. —
NEIL SMITH,
Sales director, Björn Borg We all know the underwear, but tell us about the sportswear line? It’s our second season with the technical sportswear, but initial distribution was focused on the sports market, such as specialist tennis stores. It’s now crossing over into fashion. There’s a big sports and tennis heritage thing coming back, but we’re not going with a heritage look or type of product, though we are using green trims as a nod to lawn tennis. There are lads now wanting our T-shirts with taped seams, and workout poly tees – wearing them with jogging bottoms. We’ve seen it in womenswear for a while, with girls wearing technical running tights as everyday items, but now we’re seeing lads picking up performance products, too, to wear every day. We’re seeing real interest, particularly in the North West, for our sportswear apparel. One of the first accounts to take it on was Giancarlo Ricci in Liverpool. Is the Borg name carrying weight with this type of product? I think so. There are more people in the UK who probably associate Björn Borg more with sportswear than they do underwear, though underwear is obviously our core product – now evolving into more base-layer type products as well. On the sportswear side, there are also polo shirts and track tops, and we now have five British tennis players wearing our “match-day” and “warm-up” products. We also have a great technical polyester hoody with hydro-pro moisture management properties that is set to retail at £85. It’s a good piece to wear down the pub as well... —
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OCTOBER 2015 | PEOPLE | JACKET REQUIRED | 31
CRAIG FORD,
Co-founder of Jacket Required and founder of a number of names* (showing brands including Bedwin & The Heartbreakers, Human Made, Billionaire Boys Club, TSPTR, Cav Empt, Ebbets Field Flannels, Kinfolk, BrandBlack and Native Shoes) Why have you decided to reintroduce Native Shoes into the UK market? It was in the market a few years ago, but it didn’t work out as it was over-distributed. It sold into stores really well, but it went too wide, too fast. So it’s been out of the UK market for a few years and we’re working with the brand to relaunch it. It’s from Canada, and has two main footwear programmes: a one-piece shoe with a PU-injected sole unit, starting at £60 retail; and a new running shoe silhouette, which retails at £70. I put them into a number of names* on Upper James Street in Soho, and they sold out really quickly. What else is brand new to your wholesale portfolio? We’ve brought in Kinfolk, which is a Brooklyn brand. It’s classic American style mixed with Japanese influences. It has a great set-up in Brooklyn, with a retail store, nightclub, bar and restaurant – all in one big old warehouse unit. They’ve never sold outside of America and Japan, until now. I currently have it in my store as an exclusive for a year, but we’re launching in to the market at wholesale for s/s 16. There has been a lot of interest. —
SIMON PURCHASE,
Sales director, Supremebeing What spurred the recent opening of the new Supremebeing standalone shop on London’s Marshall Street? We had our showroom on Shoreditch High Street, but we really felt the best way to help to expose and build the brand was to open a flagship shop in the UK. As a brand you need to control your own destiny. We chose the spot on Marshall Street, in the Carnaby area, because there’s a lot of creativity around there, but also a commercial edge. Is the offer still graphics-led? As a brand, we started out in 1999 doing graphic-printed T-shirts, and that’s still very important. We have an area downstairs in the shop where we’re now doing our Artist Series of T-shirts. Every couple of months we’re getting a new artist in to show some artwork, and we’re supporting that with product as well. In terms of wholesale, Urban Outfitters, Asos and John Lewis are our main retail touch-points. A lot of it is graphics based, whether it’s prints on T-shirts, wind-breaker jackets or shirting. There’s a lot of bold colour and panelling. —
HANNAH ROBINSON,
Brand manager, Spring Court UK Is the sales momentum growing for Spring Court in the UK? We’ve had a really great selling season. S/s 16 signals the 80th anniversary of the brand, and we’ve got lots of old accounts back on board, as well as new accounts. The collection has been really well received at Jacket Required. Day one was fantastic, with lots of buyers and orders, too. Has the brand gone back to its roots? It has in a big way. We’ve cleaned up the logo, and the whole shoe has been stripped back to how it once was. It’s been brought back in-house by the family of the original founder of the business in Paris, whereas previously it had been with different licence holders for a few years. The brand message and product had been distorted, but we’re back on track. It’s the right time for this kind of shoe, and we’ll be setting up a proper UK office soon. —
MATHEW HUGHES,
Sales manager, Two Agent See International Ltd (showing Ellesse) Is the Ellesse brand undergoing a resurgence? Yes it seems to be that way. I’ve been writing orders at the show, and I’ve not done that for a few years. We’ve seen a really positive reaction from premium menswear accounts such as Philip Browne in Norwich. Ellesse is one of its top-selling brands at the moment. It’s really motoring the “heritage” line to a younger demographic, but you’ve also got guys like me who remember it from the first time round and are buying into it again. Price point is key, with Ellesse logo T-shirts retailing at £20, crew-neck sweats at £40, and hoodies at £45. The lads are liking the “suits” – matching grey marl tops and bottoms in particular, or tees and shorts. There’s definitely a trend there. They like to wear a brand but, at the tender age of 16 and 17, they haven’t got that much disposable cash. So they are getting the brand, and getting that look, but at a commercial price point. Is there also a higher tier now? The brand is quite a big entity, and will tier the label in different ways. There’s a re-issue package launching – which is more archive-led. The Ellesse Italia line is coming out for s/s 16, and will be pushed into more premium independents – it’s a bit sharper and neater. It will prolong the longevity to make sure it doesn’t burn out in just a few seasons. There’s also footwear. —
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OCTOBER 2015 | TRENDS | JACKET REQUIRED | 32
UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL MWB presents the key trends to emerge from this season’s Jacket Required, which spans apparel, footwear, accessories and lifestyle products. — This season marked the ninth edition of premium menswear trade show Jacket Required, where over 300 brands showcased their s/s 16 collections featuring apparel and accessories from all over the world. With s/s comes the seasonal trends explored through print, pattern and denim, where thick layers and dark colour palettes are substituted for light fabrics, cotton-blends and bleach washes. Printed denim, intricate designs and embroidery were key, citing various references such as street style and David Lynch. Increasingly noted this season was the blend between menswear apparel and lifestyle, made apparent by the introduction of more exhibiting lifestylefocused brands. Both buyers and exhibitors saw a focus on all spectrums of the man’s wardrobe at the show, from premium basics to stationery and homeware. As Jacket Required grows in the international world of menswear, foreign focuses have become integral to spotlighting certain markets. Western Europe has often melded apparel and lifestyle to form comfort-led clothing with understated but alternative colours. America’s workwear is taking a global approach, with home-grown brands exhibiting for the first time in the UK, offering authenticity through functional-focused clothing. — SANDQVIST
MEN’S SOCIETY
JAPAN - BEST
LIFESTYLE ABOUT
MEN’S SOCIETY
APOTHECARY + BARBERSHOP SUPPLY CO
VERYNERD
WINTER SESSION
RETURN OF THE RUDEBOY
MONOKLE
A.Q.O
BAXTERS OF CALIFORNIA
WINTER SESSION
>>>
G.H. BASS EBBETS FIELD FLANNELS
REDWING
DICKIES
COCKPIT USA
AMERICAN BEN DAVIES
BRIXTON
BRIXTON
WOOD WOOD
BETHNALS
WAVEN
FLYING HORSE INDIGO GOODS
FDMTL
BLUE COLLAR WORKER
DENIM WOOD WOOD
WAVEN
>>>
MR STANFORD
MI-PAC
EVISU
STANCE RASCALS
PATTERNS & PRINTS
AKIO
EAT DUST
LIBERTINE LIBERTINE
Photographs: Dom Fleming Art direction: Karlmond Tang and Jordan Spires Set design: Rick Graham and Nick Rouillard for Home Studios
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OCTOBER 2015 | BRITISH BRANDS | 38
BRITISH CRAFTSMANSHIP Victoria Jackson speaks to nine British talents, both established and fledging, who are flying the flag for manufacturing on home turf. — LOAKE Andrew Loake, managing director Victoria Jackson: Do you manufacture in the UK? Andrew Loake: Yes, in Kettering, at the same site since 1880. In addition to our main factory, we have a second factory in India, but the majority of our Goodyear Welted shoes – including those in the Loake 1880 and Loake Shoemakers collections – are made at our Kettering site. Unlike other brands, we are open about where each shoe is made – which means our customers can make an informed choice. If you want to buy really goodquality, stylish shoes that are great value for money, our Design Loake range, which is made in India, will provide just that. If you want a good-quality, entry level Goodyear Welted business shoe, our L1 collection, which is made in India, provides unbeatable value. But if you want to know that you are buying an English-made Goodyear Welted shoe and want the best quality available, you can choose anything from our premium Loake 1880 range or our mainline Loake Shoemakers line, all of which are made in Kettering in Northamptonshire. VJ: What would you say is the biggest challenge you face? AL: There are two main challenges. The first, and one we take most seriously, is the need to train
and develop the next generation of craftsmen capable of making the quality shoes for which we are renowned for. Most people are unaware of just how much time and skill goes into each pair. The second is that although established customers know and understand the benefits of Goodyear Welted shoes, we use our brand to inform and educate customers of the future about handmade shoes. VJ: Why did you decide to retain manufacturing in Britain when many others have gone overseas? AL: In 1880, as now, the home of traditional shoemaking was in Northamptonshire. So at that time, it would have been inappropriate to consider manufacturing anywhere else. These
days, one of the benefits of this is that we’re able to offer a really good repair service. People become attached to their favourite shoes and love the opportunity to rejuvenate them – in most cases we virtually rebuild them, but using the uppers and insoles that have been moulded to the shape of the wearer’s feet. VJ: What can buyers expect for the new season? AL: Next season our focus on combining contemporary styling trends with traditional craftsmanship and construction methods moves on apace. We are introducing more colour and detail and new materials, and have also increased the number of styles we offer with Goodyear Welted rubber soles.
ALFIE DOUGLAS Emily Hadden, creative director Victoria Jackson: When was the brand established? Emily Hadden: It was established in 2012. The original concept was developed by Simon and Davida Hadden. Having owned creative businesses for many years, they wanted to develop a brand making quality goods in England – an opportunity to revitalise and highlight some of the skills that England is renowned for, if you like. I’d describe our signature style as minimal, functional and quality handmade goods. VJ: Where do you manufacture your goods in the UK? EH: We have a studio in Hayes, West London. VJ: And what’s the biggest challenge you face manufacturing here? EH: Finding a manufacturer in England was a struggle – which is why we set up our own. We can now design, prototype, make and photograph a new bag in a matter of days – it’s a great advantage being able to do everything in-house. We wanted to continue the tradition of producing high-quality products made in England. VJ: What can we expect from the new season? EH: We’re continually developing our range, introducing new shapes and colours – looking to simple, paired back construction for inspiration. We’ve also recently launched an exclusive collaboration with womenswear label House of Sunny and have a few more in the pipeline.
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OCTOBER 2015 | BRITISH BRANDS | 39
BEE CLOTHING Ben Crane, head designer Victoria Jackson: When was BEE Clothing launched? Ben Crane: I established BEE in 2013 out of a love for outerwear, streetwear and technical fabrication. I started the label originally from a personal need for a cycling jacket that I could also wear off the bike. VJ: Where is the brand currently stocked? BC: In the UK, the label can be found in Number 6, By-Walski, SLG Store and Wolf & Badger in London, Spoke & Stringer in Bristol and Union Project in Cheltenham. In regards to international stores, we’re stocked in 290 Square Meters in Amsterdam. VJ: Why did you choose to manufacture in the UK? BC: Everything is currently made in North London. It’s an important part of the story at the moment – we’re designed, sampled and made in London. It’s a nice thing to be able to visit the factory with ease – I can sample things and try out ideas easily. Manufacturing in the UK feels more personal to me and hopefully to the customer. We’ll eventually move some parts of production to Europe, but not just yet. VJ: What does the next season have in store for BEE Clothing? BC: Winter is always an exciting time for us as it’s really the season for us to focus on. There are a few things in the pipeline collaboration-wise, and the collection will be growing in size once again. We have some really nice shops coming on board this season, including a launch party at Number 6 London.
ROSS BARR Ross Barr, founder
DOBSON Nina Dobson, founder
Victoria Jackson: When was Ross Barr established? Ross Barr: I launched my debut clothing line in September of this year. The idea came four years ago, when I walked into a knitting shop in Barnsley and saw an Arran knitted jumper. The very kind owner offered to hand knit in British wool some unisex Arran jumpers of my own design. I commissioned 50 to be made and, through touring local craft and Christmas fairs, selling online and through the help of dear friends and family, I managed to sell in excess of 100 units. After I graduated university I approached The Prince’s Trust with my concept and brand idea. I want Ross Barr to be a brand that not only champions British and domestic manufacturing, but to also revive it once more. We have seen mills, factories, potteries, mines and shipyards all close across the UK. This is not OK. We have systematically brushed aside or covered up our industrial past that once allowed ourselves to be legitimately labelled Great Britain. VJ: How did you find the process of finding a factory to work with? RB: When I started, I got a list of 170 companies and, after I called them all, only seven were still trading and manufacturing. Once part of the 16-24 category myself, I know what it’s like for a huge amount of school leavers and graduates trying to enter the job market. The recession is not over, especially in places such as Wakefield, Barnsley, Dewsbury, Hull and Bradford. They are still facing degeneration where their streets are filled with empty shop units as our high streets dwindle. What I want is for Britain to roll up its sleeves and become a powerhouse economy again. VJ: What’s the biggest challenge you face? RB: The premium price tag that comes from the expense of commissioning products that
Victoria Jackson: How would you describe the signature style of Dobson? Nina Dobson: I create refined workwear cut from the finest British suiting fabrics. I fell in love with these fabrics while visiting Yorkshire woollen mills at the beginning of my career. It’s always been my long-term plan to start my own brand and, when I realised I could use those beautiful fabrics in the casual garments I love, Dobson was born. The brand is a culmination of my love of casual utility garments and formal menswear fabrics. VJ: So is your manufacturing based solely in the North of England? ND: Yes, most fabrics and product comes from the North, with a lot of our mills no more than 50 miles from the factory. The biggest challenge I’d say with British manufacturing is cost. Other than that, working with UK manufacturers has exceeded all my expectations. VJ: Taking into consideration higher costs, why did you take the decision to manufacture on home soil? ND: The product is all about luxury, and keeping everything here in Britain is part of that. We also benefit from flexibility, quick turnaround, ease of communication and lower garment mileage. VJ: What can we expect for the new season? ND: We’ve shot an new short film for s/s 16, due for release next month, shot in 6k super-HD. It’s like nothing we have done before. In regards to the collection, we’ve focused on our core qualities – predominantly British woven wools.
are made in the UK, and made from materials that are also from the UK. It’s a challenge as a new brand to quantify a higher premium price tag to the general public. You really have to let the quality of the garment sell itself – which is hard when you are an online business. VJ: What does the new season have in store? RB: The next season is pretty inspiring. I’m producing some summer knitwear and T-shirts, and collaborating with one of my best friends, Tom Duxbury, who is one of Britain’s most up-and-coming illustrators. His work and his vision are amazing – we are looking at doing a collection that’s inspired by 30s war in Britain, with a twist from the medieval period.
>>>
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OCTOBER 2015 | XXXXXXX | XXXXXXXX | 00
FOX UMBRELLAS Paul Garrett, managing director Victoria Jackson: Fox Umbrellas is 147 years old – how was the brand founded? Paul Garrett: Mr Thomas Fox opened a shop in Fore Street in the City of London, which later became London Wall after the Second World War, when roads were rebuilt and renamed. At this time, the umbrella trade in the UK was booming, and there were many umbrella manufacturers based in London. Fox started the business with a passion for quality and attention to detail – attributes that still hold true today. VJ: Do you still manufacture in London? PG: We manufacture our products at a small factory in Shirley, Croydon. The process of making Fox Umbrellas has changed very little since 1868. To obtain the high quality that we require, and that our customers have come to expect, it’s still necessary to rely on the skill of hand workers rather than machines. VJ: What would you say the biggest challenge is you face with British manufacturing? PG: It can be really hard to attract the right staff; obviously no one turns up to an interview and says they can make an umbrella, at least not in recent years – maybe in the early 1900s, when people with the necessary skills were able to make or repair an umbrella would have been commonplace in England. So we have to invest the time in training our staff. Real government support would go a long way. We’re always hearing in the news how important manufacturing and export is for the economy yet, in our experience, when we wish to expand as we have tried to do recently and apply for a small extension on top of our factory, we’re met with red tape from the local council. You would think that small UK manufacturers would receive more support as we expand employing more people and providing jobs in the local area. The UKTI gives good support
HAWICK KNITWEAR Arthur Rennie, managing director
to businesses wishing to expand overseas – it has done much of the leg work in terms of research, but has recently suffered budget cuts. We feel more could be done to support them in helping other manufacturers expand into new markets. VJ: Which stores are Fox Umbrellas currently stocked? PG: Harrods, Davidoff, James Lock & Co, Pickett, Gieves & Hawkes and many other quality stores across the UK and the rest of the world. We manufacture for many top stores, often under their own label or as a co-branded product.
PEREGRINE Tom Glover, managing director Victoria Jackson: Peregrine was established in 1796 – where do you continue to draw your inspiration from? Tom Glover: We always like to take classic British styles and fashion them into something uniquely exciting, giving a new lease of life, we look closely at what people are wearing around us and consider how we can give them something new that is both well designed and of excellent quality while staying true to our own heritage. I’d describe our signature style as heritage classics with a contemporary twist. VJ: Where in the UK is Peregrine manufactured? TG: It’s manufactured in Manchester. Peregrine has been an English-made brand for over 200 years and is something we intend to stay true to. VJ: What’s the biggest challenge you face with manufacturing in Britain? TG: We have to ensure that manufacturing is continuously provided for the factory all year round, while continuing to source UK fabrics at competitive prices. VJ: And finally, what can buyers expect for the new season? TG: We have a new a/w 16 shoe collaboration with J Shoes in the pipeline, and we are currently sourcing some really interesting fabrics to add into the new a/w 16 collection. We are also looking at opening a new Peregrine retail store in Bristol.
Victoria Jackson: Can you tell us when Hawick Knitwear was launched? AR: The first Hawick Knitwear branded range was launched in 2011, but we have a clear production heritage that can be traced back to 1874. We made the decision to launch our own branded range because we had become an efficient privatelabel supplier to many global brands, but still had a desire to put our own design, technical and production expertise into our own collections. VJ: How would you describe your signature style? AR: Traditional luxury for men and classical elegance for ladies of all ages. We draw our inspiration from our unique design archives, production heritage, engagement with fashion buyers, trend workshops and presentations. VJ: Manufacturing wholly in Hawick, Scotland, what’s the toughest challenge you face? AR: British importers who claim their British heritage and strongly suggest their products are made in the UK, when they are in fact not. We lose the sale and UK manufacturing loses that customer when the goods invariably fail to live up to expectations. VJ: What does the next season have in store? AR: For s/s 16 we focus on colour statements, textures and patterns that bring life to classic staple must haves. The menswear collection is made using five luxurious fibres – lambswool, merino, Touch of Cashmere, cashmere and cotton – in a spectacular range of colours and designs.
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OCTOBER 2015 | BRITISH AGENTS | 43
SECRET AGENTS The role of an agent in the UK market is incredibly different to what it once was, with buying patterns changing dramatically, and the dynamic between agent and retailer shifting. Victoria Jackson speaks to three key British agencies, from the innovative to the established. —
THE GREAT BRITISH EXCHANGE Matthew Hopkins, managing director Victoria Jackson: It is unusual to have an agency specifically based online. Can you first tell us how the Great British Exchange came about? Matthew Hopkins: The Great British Exchange (GBE) was created as a result of my experience and background in product development and the distribution of these products into retail. After 10 years in the sector and at the beginning of 2014, I’d come to feel frustrated and limited by overseas manufacturers dominating the retail marketplace. Having heard continual requests from retailers for British-made products, I decided to embark on a new venture, and the GBE was born. VJ: Can you explain exactly what the concept is? MH: The GBE is an online, business-to-business distributor of British-made products. British producers are sought out from trade fairs, trade bodies, and everywhere else conceivable as part of our mission to bring more Britishmade products to the forefront of retailers’ buying cycles. Producers are able to open an account with us and, using that account, they upload their products along with all the relevant details a retailer needs to know to make an informed order. On the other side are our retailers, and we specifically only work with independent retailers and small chain stores. We want to help these retailers differentiate themselves from the larger dominant retailers on the high street and, ultimately, give consumers an alternative to massproduced, throwaway products. In the long-term, the GBE’s aim is to take British products overseas and develop an international distribution network. VJ: Which brands do you represent in terms of fashion? MH: In regards to fashion we have an ever-increasing number of producers uploading their products with us. Wyatt & Jack and C Nicol are two accessories brands we are very excited to have on the site, and we are seeing more beautifully made wool garments come on board now that the winter season is approaching. VJ: What percentage is this in comparison to other categories? MH: Fashion has taken a much larger proportion of the product portfolio than expected, especially in regards to accessories and underwear. We’ve got some great bags and gentleman’s ties and handkerchiefs, as well as luxurious kimonos in Liberty print fabrics. VJ: How do you think we can bring manufacturing back to British shores? MH: From what we have experienced so far, it’s all about building relationships and awareness of what is available here in the UK. Manufacturing is happening in the UK, and the traditional pockets of industry still do exist, whether it’s ladies’ shoes from Nottingham or ceramics from Stoke-onTrent. What needs to be addressed are the industries that support these manufacturers and the machines and tooling that people need in order to make their products. Of course there is also the question of skilled labour and making the industries an attractive career option for young people. People are becoming more conscious of their buying decisions, and are looking for their purchases to last longer. The trend of “wear-now, replacetomorrow” seems to be waning, and we’re excited for the future of British products. VJ: There also seems to be a real renewed interest in British products. Why do you think this is? MH: I think there are a number of reasons why people are interested in products made in Britain. Supporting British businesses helps people feel
“People are becoming more conscious of their buying decisions, and are looking for their purchases to last longer. The trend of ‘wear-now, replace-tomorrow’ seems to be waning, and we’re excited for the future of British products”
connected to their heritage, and the impact of the recession has made people reflect on their buying habits – they are more conscious of where and how things are made. We’re finding there is a generation of people who appreciate the skill and expertise of craftsmanship and, if it’s being done here in Britain, they want to champion it. The environmental and social impact of mass production are also preying on people’s minds. People enjoy telling stories of where they have found products or how things have been made that they have bought and there is a growing sense of nostalgia for a time when garments and products where handed down through generation – people are looking for things that last. VJ: What challenges have you faced since launching GBE? MH: I think we have faced many of the challenges that most new businesses face but, for us, the biggest challenge so far has been getting the website live. That feeling of being so close yet so far from being able to set the site live seemed to go on forever, but we’ve overcome that and we’re really eager to source yet more products and get retailers everywhere excited about us. VJ: What would you say has been the biggest achievement? MH: The biggest achievement so far has been launching the website. We exhibited at Harrogate Home & Gift in the summer and it was fantastic to be able to present the live site to buyers and producers and get their feedback. >>>
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OCTOBER 2015 | BRITISH AGENTS | 44
DOGHOUSE STUDIOS Ross Simmons, founder Victoria Jackson: When was Doghouse Studios established? Ross Simmons: September last year, so it’s still in its infancy. VJ: Which brands do you represent? RS: I represent Hero’s Heroine, which was the first brand I signed, as well as Simon and Mary, and Rogues of London. I also have an exciting new project for a/w 16 which I can’t talk about just yet. VJ: Why was Doghouse Studios launched? RS: The agency was started not only as an avenue to work for myself, but to also choose the brands I work with. It’s great to get involved with the design and creative direction of the brands as well. Some great new friendships have evolved. VJ: Do you have any criteria you look for when signing new labels? RS: I think you need brands that have a little of you in them or something you love about them. I could never sell product I was not personally passionate about in one way or another. In terms of where I get my brands from, it could be any style from anywhere in the world – Simon and Mary, for example, is a hat label from South Africa, and is the most beautiful collection – check it out.
VJ: What do you think the key is to a successful retailer relationship? RS: I think communication and trying new things – customers evolve as trends change, and I think stores need to also.
VJ: What would you say is the biggest challenge you face as an agent in the current climate? RS: I guess that would be growing new brands in the current market. If I had taken on an existing brand, that would have been easier, however it’s definitely been fun building up labels from scratch and seeing them grow this past year in the marketplace.
VJ: What’s the next step for the agency, are you looking at taking on any more brands or expanding into any other areas? RS: I am always on the lookout for new brands, however I do have an exciting new brand lined up for a/w 16. I’m also focusing on my current brands and trying to grow them globally – which takes up most of my time.
DOUBLE H AGENCY Ward Mann, head of sales Victoria Jackson: Double H was launched in 2011. When did you join the company? Ward Mann: I joined Double H in May 2013. Prior to this I was the UK and Ireland’s independent agent for Cottonfield, which is a Danish casual and denim brand. VJ: How many menswear labels do you look after at the agency? WM: We currently have eight menswear brands under my supervision – Eden Park, Blend, Casual Friday, Colours & Sons, 6th Sense, Bertoni, Garcia and Kings Road. VJ: What would you say is your niche as an agency? WM: We have a specific focus on European brands at Double H. We have the expertise, knowledge and experience of bringing these types of brands into the UK and Irish markets as we understand their features and what benefits UK retailers. VJ: What’s the key to your success? WM: It’s simply down to hard work and driving awareness of our brands in the portfolio. Our ethos is to place our brands in the most suited retailers in each location, even if this means we have to wait for the retailer to be in a position to
start properly with the particular brand. That means that when the brand gets delivered, the reaction is more often positive as we are working with a retailer who understands the brand’s position in their retail theatre. VJ: What would you say is your biggest challenge in the current climate? WM: The biggest challenge as an agency at the moment is that we have to gain greater coverage on the brands and secure local hero accounts in certain areas of the UK, lifting each individual brand’s profile in the markets. We are certainly starting to do this with a number of our brands, and this results in the retailers approaching you with interest in stocking the label. VJ: What would you say is key to a successful relationship with the retailer? WM: The best thing any agent can do is be transparent and honest with them in regards to the brand from the start. We also try to visit the retailer as often as we can, as this gives the agent a clearer perspective of the store working environment. Sales, marketing, customer service and credit control all need to work together across the agency and retailer – we’re trying to achieve this with all customers from smaller independents to major department stores to online retailers. VJ: How has your role as an agent changed over the past five years? WM: The agent’s role has now changed as they’re now not only sales related in these times but involved in the full management of the account including marketing, finance and customer services. This is a must to fully understand all of the retailers working needs.
“I think you need brands that have a little of you in them or something you love about them. I could never sell product I was not personally passionate about in one way or another”
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OCTOBER 2015 | THE HIP STORE | PROFILE | 46
HIP TO BE SQUARE When Everton Campbell established The Hip Store in 1987, the market was a very different place. With the store’s 30th anniversary approaching and a recent move to a new location strategically placing the retailer in the heart of major retail developments, this indie has shown no plans of slowing down. Rebecca Jackson catches up with Campbell to find out more. — The Hip Store has become something of an institution since its initial establishment in 1987, with the retailer now widely recognised as Leeds’ go-to place for brands that would otherwise be inaccessible. And its success goes far beyond Leeds, the city where the retailer was born and bred, with owner Everton Campbell recognised as a key figure in the menswear industry. While delivering a unique brand mix to a diverse customer base, Campbell’s premise is one that clearly states all are welcome through its doors; after all, he says, “It’s not elitism or exclusive – The Hip Store is for everyone.” Despite the retailer’s open door policy since setting up in Leeds’ iconic Thornton’s Arcade in 1987, the indie has been able to successfully separate itself from the sameness of the high street – standing out from the crowd and its competitors. However, it takes more than a great roster of brands for word of mouth to spread. Though a solid reputation has no doubt seen the retailer gain a legion of loyal customers, moving with technology and all of its updates has been an important part of business development.
Campbell and his team have ensured the store has a strong online presence through its website, www.thehipstore.co.uk, taking advantage of technology and its advantages. “Technology affects the ability to communicate with the customer,” says Campbell. “In today’s business environment, it’s necessary and important to interact quickly and clearly. I think exploring technology into faster delivery options is always worth considering.” However, the store in general has spread itself across many different channels, reaching its audience through in-store events and across social-media channels. Most recently, this has been evident in the form of an online blog, Ways and Means, in collaboration with personal friend and menswear icon Jason Jules. Expected to be published as a printed journal in the near future, the posts are aimed at the store’s style-conscious customer base, with Campbell simply describing it as “another channel in which we share greater insight into all the things we like.” In general, Campbell’s image and iconic status within the menswear industry has not been
achieved by shirking the limelight. Campbell is a well-known industry figure; his face can be found across a multitude of media outlets. “We’ve also recently run a London underground and billboard campaign, as well as a collaboration with Jocks and Nerds magazine,” says Campbell. “Social media is really important, and is a great opportunity to show people what we do, but we’ve always been proactive with brand collaborations as alternative marketing channels.” From first appearances, it seems it’s been easy – as though luck has dealt Campbell a good hand from the start. However, surviving through three recessions and two store moves has not been without its problems. For Campbell, a large part is a good sense of judgement and knowing when to cut your losses. This is something that no doubt served Campbell well during 15 years of owning a womenswear store. Sensing menswear was his forté, Campbell closed the store in 2003. “I doubt I’ll be revisiting that one for a while,” he says. “Women’s high-street stores seem to be very strong in the UK. I can’t remember the last time I saw a contemporary womenswear indie in
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a UK city centre town – that’s not to say there are not any out there, of course.” So it seems another womenswear venture is off the table for the time being. However, after recently moving into a new and much larger venue that spans 1,500 sq ft, the retailer is now based in the heart of new retail developments in Leeds city centre. The new location and increased size means there are a multitude of different avenues for Campbell to explore. “The new shop is so much better and has allowed us to house a coffee and publication station and bring the website photography in-house,” says Campbell. The extra space means Campbell is able to expand different areas with ease, including the store’s footwear and denim offering. “Our winter selection from Chippewa, Redwings, Edwin and Nudie are extensive to say the least,” he says. “Also, after a short break, we will be working with Adidas again as a top-tier account, stocking its Vintage and Spezial collections – plus the White Mountaineering collaboration. We are also one of the selected few launching Adidas’ new model, Nomad, in December.”
OCTOBER 2015 | THE HIP STORE | PROFILE | 47
The location change came after a short stint of trading in Trinity Leeds, a new-build shopping centre in the city centre. With expansion plans in the pipeline, it wasn’t right for the store. It’s something that Campbell is not afraid to admit. “It didn’t sit well with a certain key brand at that time that decided to step away without taking the time out to visit the store. We changed location for a reason, but we never lost our DNA, which has allowed us to uncover and develop new brands and ultimately move on to a fresher path.” Campbell’s decision to move closer to a shopping mall that fits the retailer’s image could be a profitable one. Now located on Vicar Lane, in close proximity to Victoria Gate – a new shopping set to be finalised in 2016 and one that will rival Trinity Leeds in size – the indie is positioned among key premium stores that are either based in the surrounding area or that will soon be occupying it. “I wanted to be part of the regeneration of the area that is expected to add another premium level of retail to the city’s landscape,” says Campbell. Victoria Gate will act as an extension
of premium arcade Victoria Quarter, which is home to big-name retailers such as Joules, All Saints and Harvey Nichols. Anchored by a new John Lewis, the development is expected to draw an increased footfall in the area. As for the future of the store, it’s looking bright. After JD Sports Fashion took a stake in the business in 2014, Campbell has reached a new customer base; one that expands far beyond Leeds. Targeting the whole of the UK and international markets through new avenues of advertising and the store’s customer-friendly website, The Hip Store accesses a wide-spanning audience. “JD agreed it wanted to invest in a growing business and myself,” says Campbell. “The store has maintained its market position in the industry over a period of years. It has respect from suppliers and brands and operates with a global knowledge – in essence that’s how the investment came about.” With another season well under way, it seems there are many exciting developments for The Hip Store. And as for another store opening, Campbell says, “Never say never.”
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OCTOBER 2015 | ACCESSORIES | 48
DUCHAMP £27 020 7608 9100
SOULLAND £48 07889 649508
ALLY CAPELLINO £102 020 7613 3073
W.T AUTHOR £140 01694 771303
DAINES & HATHAWAY £70 07896 922455
ITEM M6 £7 07738 740049
CLASSIC GIFT GUIDE Point-of-sale additions such as cufflinks, tie pins, watches and wallets are essential for a fruitful Christmas selling season, alongside more expensive leather and tech goods. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
CAMEL ACTIVE £36 020 7736 0230
PANTHERELLA £5.50 0116 283 1111
PITTARDS ENGLAND £91.50 07896 922455
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OCTOBER 2015 | ACCESSORIES | 49
PETER MILLAR PRICE ON REQUEST 01908 513910
DENISONBOSTON £18 01273 202095
BROOKS ENGLAND PRICE ON REQUEST 01933 672170
OTIS BATTERBEE £26 020 7431 8563
DENTS £20 01985 212291
TATEOSSIAN PRICE ON REQUEST WHOLESALE@TATEOSSIAN.COM
STORM £39.99 020 7874 6900
FENDON 1919 £104 01273 202095
TYLER & TYLER PRICE ON REQUEST 0121 360 4279
TUSTING £100 01234 712266
MERC £11 020 7495 8538
JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN £29.50 020 7227 3131
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OCTOBER 2015 | ACCESSORIES | 50
MANHATTAN PORTAGE £37 01335 372600
SANDQVIST £78 020 3411 7341
STANCE £4.78 01243 670999
SOULSTAR £4.99 01623 756644
NIXON £135 0808 234 7003
ORIGINAL PENGUIN RRP £25 0161 236 9855
MARWOOD £18 01364 649312
LE SLIP FRANÇAIS £32 0033 45239260
REALM & EMPIRE £13 01858 466607
MI-PAC £12.50 020 7739 7620
WESC £14 01271 865600
SCOTCH & SODA £8 020 3137 3901
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OCTOBER 2015 | ACCESSORIES | 51
QUIKSILVER £10.80 020 7392 4020
MA.STRUM PRICE ON REQUEST 01268 564631
MEME LONDON £21.60 07715 990377
DUCK & COVER £25 020 8453 1668
GYMPHLEX PRICE ON REQUEST 0116 255 6326
CONVERSE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8731 3500
CONTEMPORARY GIFT GUIDE While playful motifs and bold colour choices are still prevalent for accessories this season, the Christmas selling period will also welcome a more subdued, pared-down offer, which will attract more than just the novelty gift shopper. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
PORTER £100 07768 605978
ICE £75 01494 486220
ALPINESTARS £10 0039 04235286
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OCTOBER 2015 | PROFILE | BASE LONDON | 52
CHANGING THE BASE LINE Strong export sales are seeing Base London grow up as a brand this year – a year that also marks the label’s 20th anniversary. With more fashion-forward retailers in different markets buying into it, and not having to explain the old “lads’ shoes” tag, a more design-led and higher price point product has also been established. Tom Bottomley hears how the strategy is working from long-time sales director Mark Husted. —
Export sales have now overtaken the homegrown market at 52 per cent for Base London, which originally built its business making shoes for British lads going out on a Friday and Saturday night. Back from Micam in Milan, sales director Mark Husted says forward sales are growing at a ferocious pace in Italy thanks to taking on a savvy Italian agent. “The Italian agent has really been doing the business since he came on board just over a year ago,” says Husted. “In that time he’s opened 130 accounts. More to the point, they’re all paying. He even had around 30 cheques for me at the show. He originally approached me at Micam, and his father has a 35-year-old agency, so it’s well established.” While the UK remains the biggest singular market for Base London, its second strongest sales now come from the US and Canada, followed by France and the Far East – particularly Hong Kong and China, with Italy showing the most recent rapid growth. In terms of the US, Husted says they started off with a distributor around four years ago, and they were growing at 12-15 per cent each season. “It was growing steadily, but it wasn’t setting the world alight,” he says. “However, last season, we had 300 per cent growth.” Some difference. “Our distributors signed with Hudson’s Bay in Canada – the department store group that also owns Saks and Lord & Taylor in
the States, and we got in 90 stores with mini concessions. The plan is to do a similar thing in Lord & Taylor stores next season. If it comes off, it’s going to explode. We’re already with Zappos.com and Nordstrom, so it’s starting to click.” In terms of the UK, Asos and Schuh are currently strong accounts for Base London. Husted originally joined the brand in sales in 2000, when it was riding a high as a lads’ “going out” staple shoe label, “for Vauxhall Astra drivers,” jokes Husted. He left in 2005, after “a disagreement” with one of the then directors, only to be asked to come back by brand owner David Conibere in 2008 once Conibere had total ownership of the brand. And Husted has been there ever since, driving the sales ship. “When I came back, we were in a bit of a hole,” he says. “It was still doing ok, but we had no export business to speak of. The UK footwear industry was in the doldrums at the time and couldn’t be relied on, so we decided to do something about it and look properly at other markets. It’s been the saving of us.” So what’s different with the product these days? “Well, we’re trying different things,” says Husted. “We’ve always been a £65-£70 footwear brand. But we’ve now got shoes up to £100, and we’re using better leather uppers, including Scotch grains and high shines from Italy, as well as real leather soles. For us, it’s a premium line.
The shoes are a million miles away from what they used to be.” The thriving export business has, quite simply, enabled them to do a lot more fashionable products. “When you go to Hong Kong, China, the USA and Canada, you carry no baggage when you’re starting in a new market,” says Husted. “We are actually stocked in Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, but we are certainly not here. They see it as a little UK brand, which looks quite cool at decent prices. But what they tend to do is pitch it through a higher distribution channel, too. In France, for example, we’ve got 275 live accounts, and it’s all independents – all the best independents. We haven’t got the lads’ baggage we have in the UK.” Being asked for more fashionable product from overseas accounts, in turn means they now have something better and different to offer the UK market as well. UK customers who wouldn’t have touched the brand a few years ago, are now seeing it in an different light. Perceptions are changing as the brand grows up. The company also has the younger canvas shoe-based Fish ’n’ Chips offer, mainly for export purposes. While this year is the 20th anniversary of the Base London brand, Husted says in terms of celebrating they are going to leave that to 2016. “The 21st anniversary seems more relevant to us,” he says. “It signals a real coming of age.”
Quality Luxury Heritage Made in Scotland
Stock Service for immediate delivery
T: 01450 363100 E: sales@hawickknitwear.com www.hawickknitwear.com
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OCTOBER 2015 | PROFILE | JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN | 54
FROM ELGIN TO MAYFAIR WITH PROVENANCE Luxury Scottish knitwear brand Johnstons of Elgin is set to open its first ever London flagship shop on New Bond Street this December. Still manufacturing in factories in Elgin and Hawick – employing 900 people – it’s a company that has returned to profit, and a British success story that was established in 1797. Tom Bottomley discovers why there’s a new vigour in the brand’s strategy from CEO, Simon Cotton. —
Tom Bottomley: What changes have you overseen the company since you joined two years ago? Simon Cotton: One of the things we’ve changed is setting up a structure that allows each of the senior team to drive forward projects very quickly. The whole process has been made a lot smoother. It’s a complicated company because we have a lot of work going on across so many varying areas. We have two manufacturing mills, and we work in knitwear, accessories, home interiors and cloth production. We have our own retail mill stores, with coffee shops within them at Elgin and Hawick, as well as another shop in St Andrews and one in Nantucket in the US. There’s also the brand’s wholesale operation and substantial private-label business. There’s always plenty going on, and now of course we have the London shop, which is set to open in December. — TB: Why is this the right time to open a London flagship? SC: We’ve never had one, though we have had offices in London for a long time. Our business
has been international for a while, and it’s been increasing. London has visitors from all over the world so it feels right for it to be a major focus for us. People come to London to look for authentic luxury brands, so when they’re looking for something with a UK provenance that is where they start to look, and it’s where we should be. — TB: Has there been a repositioning of the brand? SC: I think there’s been a steady repositioning, focusing on our strengths. We supply a very high proportion of some of the world’s top luxury brands on the private-label side, and the brand itself is now reflecting that quality within it. It’s increasingly a luxury brand in its own right. — TB: Why do you feel New Bond Street is right for the brand? SC: Obviously it’s a well-known address around the world, and it’s a place that people come to look for luxury products. Not just from a retail
perspective, but also from the wholesale side, too. Our wholesale offices will be located in the building as well, so it’s a good address for us. — TB: So how will it be set up? SC: The ground floor and basement will be for retail, and we have three floors above that will be showroom and wholesale offices. It makes sense to have it all under one roof. — TB: How is the brand split in terms of men’s compared to women’s? SC: It depends on the location, but our expectation is that we’ll probably do more women’s out of New Bond Street – we think it caters more to the demographic of the street. Although overall we sell slightly more menswear over womenswear, our customers are still predominantly women. So women buying for men represents a sizeable proportion of our sales. — TB: In terms of product, has there been more of a push towards more contemporary styles?
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OCTOBER 2015 | PROFILE | JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN | 55
SIMON COTTON
SC: Over the last few years, the fit has certainly evolved and become more contemporary, and there’s been a lot more attention to colours. We still have traditional elements within the offer, but it’s always traditional with a twist. It’s important to add newness to our product lines, for sure. — TB: Is everything still made in the factories in Scotland? SC: Yes, absolutely. We have the woven mill in Elgin, and we have our knitwear mill in Hawick. We have a new knitwear design manager and she’s bringing some new ideas to the table, but we have a long established team in place. Our team has always worked at the very highest level anyway, so there’s not been a clear-out or anything like that in terms of staff. — TB: Has the brand changed ownership in recent years like so many other British heritage brands? SC: No, the ownership has remained with two families since it started 218 years ago. The Harrison family took it over from the Johnston family in 1920, and has had it ever since. The family very much views itself as a custodian of the business, looking after it for the next generation. — TB: Does the brand offer apprenticeships to teach the next generation of skilled textile craftsmen and women? SC: Absolutely. It’s one of our core values. Skills are absolutely critical; the company walks on the skills of its people. So we have really pushed the modern apprenticeships within the organisation. By the end of the year, we’ll have around 100 modern apprentices in the company, and that’s from within the last three years. So it’s a big push, not just to bring new people in and give them the right skills, but also to accredit our existing workforce so everybody has the opportunity to get a qualification to recognise what they are capable of doing. — TB: Who is the target market these days for the brand?
SC: Because the pieces tend to be timeless, they do have a very wide demographic, but the typical customer is 35-55 years old, with a ratio of 2:1, female to male, bearing in mind the “women buying for men” factor. — TB: How do you view your most recent financial results? SC: “Building” is probably the most apt word. We’re certainly going in the right direction, and I’m very comfortable with where we are at the moment and where we’re heading. We’ve moved back into profitability, which is obviously important. We had a bit of a dip for a couple of years, but it was more about some adjustments that needed to take place. However, we’ve always been a very financially prudent and well-run company. You don’t get to 218 years without that. — TB: How do you intend to grow the brand further? SC: The New Bond Street shop is a big step for us, but it’s more about the positioning of
the brand, rather than going for huge growth. The majority of what we’re doing is still private label, and will always be – it’s the heart of what we do. The brand plays a role for us; it acts as a showcase for all our capabilities. From a manufacturing point of view, it’s very useful to be able to make some product out of season, because our product is very seasonal for other people. It means we can try out new things, too. But the intention is that it will always be a niche artisan brand. People are interested in heritage and authenticity, made in a place that has a provenance to the product. So, as far as consumers are concerned, it’s the right message for us to be giving at the right time. — TB: So do you think that the history counts for a lot when it comes to consumer profile? SC: It’s huge. If you put it all together – the fact that it’s a product made in Scotland, from the fibre through to the finished product, and it’s a family owned business that’s 218 years old, with a Royal Warrant, it’s a fairly compelling story to tell.
OCTOBER 2015 | SHORT ORDER | 56
ETON
D555 £9.99 0115 977 009
IN-SEASON TRENDS
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BEN SHERMAN £32.70 020 7812 5300
RETRO REVIVAL One trend sure to spark a love/hate debate is the return to the 70s. Rather than a fleeting revival, it’s here to stay – for the coming season, at least. Spanning both casual and evening wear, the trend works well mixed with modern staples such as the leather shearling coat. —
SOULLAND £52 07889 649508 CAMEL ACTIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7736 0230
MANUEL RITZ £125 07973 143368
MERC £24 020 7495 8538
TUSTING £145 01234 712266 FARAH £28 0800 031 9737
DUCHAMP £195 020 8746 5999
OCTOBER 2015 | SHORT ORDER | 57
IN-SEASON TRENDS
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CHUNK CLOTHING £22 020 7609 6758
FLYING HORSE £51.50 020 7287 1404
WEEKEND OFFENDER £24.07 01332 342068 ELVINE
COLLEGE ESSENTIALS
SOULSTAR £4.99 01623 756644
College basics such as hooded tops, jogging bottoms, gilets and tees are essential both in and out of term time. Moving away from the more Americana preppy inspired pieces of last season, young fashion sees a nod towards sports and stripped-back streetwear for a/w 15. — CAMEL ACTIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7736 0230
WESC £40 01271 865600
883 POLICE £18 07766 754660
BELLFIELD £11.25 0161 230 7312
SCHOTT NYC £123.25 020 7481 2418
OCTOBER 2015 | SHORT ORDER | 58
IN-SEASON TRENDS
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WEEKEND OFFENDER £27.78 01332 342068 BELLFIELD £25 0161 230 7312
DIGEL
FRANK WRIGHT £34.78 0170 6212512
GREY ON GREY In a season where black and white have dominated, grey seeps through for a/w 15 as the choice for the more colour wary. Tone-on-tone shades can be spotted through accessories and footwear, while interest comes from contrast panel detailing and a mix of fabrications across apparel. —
PALLADIUM £41.30 07585 300402
D555 £4.99 0115 977 0009
REMUS UOMO £30 0333 456777
CAMEL ACTIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7736 0230
FARAH £26 0800 031 9737
MI-PAC £16.70 020 7739 7620
OCTOBER 2015 | SHORT ORDER | 59
IN-SEASON TRENDS
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D555 £3.99 0115 977 0009
PRETTY GREEN £40 0845 539 2109
CAMEL ACTIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7736 0230
ROCKPORT £50 0161 4192 659
REALM & EMPIRE
SCOTCH & SODA £126.90 020 3137 3901
MODERN MILITARY
Military influences are dominating menswear for yet another season, with a/w 15 seeing a more streamlined and pared-back design than before. While camo isn’t falling out of vogue any time soon, it is seen in panels as well as all-over prints. Expect hints of blue alongside traditional khaki. —
NIXON £24.50 0808 234 7003
SOULSTAR £24.99 01623 756644
Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
ROUX £84 07872 565437
REALM & EMPIRE £32 01858 466607
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OCTOBER 2015 | PEOPLE | 60
COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.
LITTLE BLACK BOOK THE KIMPTON BUCHANAN 1800 SUTTER ST, SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94115
SIMON SAYS Who remembers the age of conspicuous consumption? Of look-at-me trophy shopping trips on Bond Street – Patsy and Eddie style – expensive bags clacking together like vast upmarket conkers? It all seems a little tasteless now, post-crash; all a bit crass. But while The Guardian reading chattering classes may be spending their precious cash on single estate, organic flat-white coffees brewed by earnest young men with awkward beards, the Chinese flock to the West End in droves. In this hunting ground, there are still big-game prizes to be bagged; another Vuitton clutch, or Chanel bauble. Scarily young millionaire industrialists stroll around Selfridges with their Louboutin heels clacking on the Weston’s marble. Coaches ferry the faithful to Bicester Village, where picking up bargains is as easy as catching a fish at a trout farm. But scratch beneath the surface of the great Chinese success story, and conflicting pictures emerge. I recently had a visitor to my showroom. He didn’t speak much English, so my friend Terence from Hong Kong translated. In his 20s, he’d founded a chain of fast-fashion, mid-market stores in one of China’s vast “secondary cities”. Now with 40 branches, he was looking West for brands with heritage, but not out of reach for ordinary Chinese. “Why has he been so successful?” I asked Terence. The reply was interesting. “Because of the crackdown,” he replied. It was only a brief news story here, but has had huge repercussions for all Western brands trying to enter the Chinese market. The new president, eager to stamp both his authority and our corruption, banned “gifts”, hitherto an essential part of doing business in China. Instantly, it became not only illegal but downright dangerous to offer a MontBlanc pen, or Tag watch to oil the wheels of a deal. So instead of spending their money on high-end goodies, they’re spending at Mr Zheng’s stores. Sure, there are some clients still shopping in the glitzy malls on the Bund, but they’re asking for a plain carrier bag when they leave the store. Though they may be shopping and spending here for now, I’m wondering how long this, too, will go on. I asked Mr Zheng what these shoppers did with their gifts when they got home? “Oh no,” he replied. “They’re not gifts. They’re all for themselves. They mustn’t give expensive gifts.” In China, there is now an age of inconspicuous consumption and it should worry us all. Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores.
The Buchanan opened its doors in June 2015 as the newest Kimpton hotel in the brand’s hometown of San Francisco. Catering to the crowds that flock to one of the city’s key streets, Fillmore Street, The Buchanan offers its customers a prime location to use as a base for exploring the city. Set close to nearby bars and restaurants the hotel is located within a stone’s throw of the hustle and bustle, while also benefiting from a quiet setting. There are 131 guest rooms occupying this boutique style hotel, which takes on Japaneseinspired themes throughout its design and décor. Rooms take on a bohemian appearance and feature kimono-inspired guest robes and playful wall prints by local artists. The design scheme is kept bright throughout, punctuated with classically designed furniture pieces. Meanwhile, quirky features come in the form of curated accessories and chic lighting; the foyer is anchored by a feature wall made from reclaimed whiskey barrel staves. —
PLAN B
What would I be if I wasn’t a designer? Simple. I’d be a professional Muay Thai fighter and then, as my fighting career ended, a great trainer.
MOHSIN ALI DESIGNER, MOHSIN
I can’t think of a better feeling than pushing your body to the extreme, training twice a day, all for five rounds in the ring. Muay Thai is the “art of eight limbs”, combining the use of elbows, knees, hands and feet. You are constantly thinking your opponent out and, like chess, making sure you make the right moves. It makes me so excited talking about it. I’d live between London and Thailand, training hard, eating well and constantly learning not only about the sport, but also about the country and the real people. I’ve trained in and loved the sport for over 15 years so, for me, it would be perfect. Plus, being a real superhero would be quite difficult. —
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OCTOBER 2015 | PEOPLE | 61
CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL DAVID FATTAL FOUNDER, MAKE YOUR ODYSSEY I like to keep the items in my wardrobe as elegant and timeless as possible, with a focus on quality of product. I would like to be able to look back at photographs of myself in 10 or 15 years and not say, “What was I thinking?”, and maybe I’d still be able to wear some of the items. — My first key item in my wardrobe is a Zegna jacket. A good jacket is very important, and this one is reversible. It’s the first time I’ve bought a reversible jacket where I use both sides in equal measure. Both are very cool, with one side feeling a little bit more casual than the other, so I have used it a lot.
— Spring/summer 2015 was our first collection with Make Your Odyssey, where we increased our line to include other products in addition to swimwear. I found myself wearing a lot of our Lito polo in either ice blue or white. The polos are made in Italy, woven in a lightweight cotton, and have an open-neck button-less collar. They always looks elegant and feel fresh. We are looking forward to adding more colours to the range as they have been a very popular product for us. — A new discovery for me are my white Common Project sneakers. They are my first pair, but won’t be my last as they work with pretty much everything from chinos to a nice pair of black jeans. I find black jeans more elegant than blue, but mostly I wear them with a pair of grey slim-fit Stove chinos from All Saints, which are a really nice cut, not too skinny. Finally, with winter around the corner, good knitwear is important, and I like to find pieces with interesting textures rather than a plain cashmere or wool sweater. I often wear a cardigan by Brunello Cucinelli – which is very versatile and can be worn open with a white T-shirt or buttoned up with a denim shirt, or even a white dress shirt underneath, to give two different looks. —
TOP TWEETS Maude & Fox @maude_fox Happy National British Day from the Very British Maude and Fox @MadeinBritainGB Tom Cox @cox_tom People always cite “moving house” & “divorce” as stressful life events but too often they forget “putting a duvet cover on when very tired”. Bespoke Britannia @BespokeBrit Thank the heavens for @Barbour @HunterBoots @FoxUmbrellas in this less than glorious weather! Mara Wilson @MaraWritesStuff Yes, I’m pleased to meet you. No, I don’t want to touch your hand. Netflix UK & Ireland @NetflixUK Dan! Dan! Dan! Dan! Dan! Dan! Dan! Dan! Dan! Dan! Dan! Dan! Dan! Dan! #Partridge Stephen Fry @stephenfry BBC news says “The former Tory donor admitted to having personal “beef” with the prime minister…“ #piggate just gets weirder and weirder. Time Out London @TimeOutLondon Glastonbury discriminates against the lazy, the hungover and the disorganised. The Dark Lord @Lord_Voldemort7 YOLO. Unless you have horcruxes. Jake Fogelnest @jakefogelnest Whatever, I could walk on the moon if someone gave me a ride there.
SOCIETY © Lloyd Images
THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.
p MANCHESTER PLAYED HOST TO A BUMPER WEEKEND OF MUSIC, ART, STREET CULTURE AND SKATEBOARDING LAST MONTH FOR HOUSE OF VANS LONDON. THE GREAT NORTHERN WAREHOUSE IN DEANSGATE WELCOMED AN AMALGAMATION OF SOME OF THE BIGGEST NAMES IN ELECTRONIC, DUB AND DRUM & BASS.
p MENSWEAR LABEL LUKE RECENTLY HELD ITS ANNUAL GOLF DAY IN SUPPORT OF THE JOHN HARTSON FOUNDATION, A CHARITY SET UP BY FORMER PROFESSIONAL FOOTBALLER JOHN HARTSON AFTER HIS BATTLE WITH TESTICULAR CANCER. SPORT STARS AND CELEBRITIES SUCH AS STRICTLY COME DANCING’S JAMES JORDAN RAISED OVER £4,000.
p TOP BRITISH MODEL OLIVER CHESHIRE TOOK TO THE WATER DURING COWES WEEK TO JOIN BRITISH ROUND-THE-WORLD SOLO SAILOR ALEX THOMSON IN THE ARTEMIS CHALLENGE, AS PART OF THE HUGO BOSS TEAM. THOMSON WAS THE FIRST BRITISH SKIPPER OVER THE FINISH LINE, AND THE HUGO BOSS TEAM FINISHED IN FOURTH POSITION IN THE IMOCA CLASS.
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OCTOBER 2015 | 62
THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.
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YEEZY WHEN YOU KNOW HOW The phenomenal euphoria – and handing over of big wads of cash – surrounding the release of the Adidas Yeezy Boost 350 in Pirate Black by Kanye West towards the end of August was a thing to behold. It has to be some kind of genius marketing strategy because people were, and still are, going seriously nuts for these shoes. Fans queued up all night outside Footlocker on Oxford Street for a chance to buy a pair, just like they do every time Apple releases an update of its iPhone. West’s latest collaboration with Adidas, with the shoes retailing at £250, caused such a frenzy that people are still paying through the nose to get their hands on a pair on eBay at a far-inflated price. Pairs have been selling, with multiple bids, for £500 and above, and there’s even a pair of UK size 4s up for auction for £1,500, while a size 9 is priced at £725, indicating the Boosts are big news for people with small feet. Only 50 pairs were available at Footlocker and, reportedly, 100 people started waiting outside the shop on the Thursday night, despite the trainers not being released till the Saturday. Tickets were apparently given out to 62 people who were waiting in line (which doesn’t make sense with there only being 50 pairs available, but who am I to question the logic of all this), guaranteeing each person holding a ticket a pair of the coveted trainers. Everyone else was told to go home, and witnesses said that others who turned up then started to get angry, issuing threats to those given tickets. Thankfully, there weren’t any reports of actual violence (over here anyway, but who knows who got murdered for theirs in the US), but the rapper will definitely have some new material to put in his next hit. West first teamed up with Adidas to design (ahem) shoes in 2013, and the first 9,000 pairs of his Yeezy Boost shoes sold out in 10 minutes. When they start lining them with Kim Karshadian’s bras, all hell could break loose. —
p CHEAP MONDAY’S S/S 16 RUNWAY COLLECTION t THE LATEST CELEBRITY COLLABORATION FOR TOPMAN
IT’S GRIM UP TOPMAN
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Nick “Grimmy” Grimshaw strikes again. He seems to be everywhere these days, especially since his appointment as an X Factor judge. The Radio 1 Breakfast Show DJ from Oldham, with friends in high places as part of the Primrose Hill set, has been invited to design his own line for Topman – launching in-store mid-October. Apparently he’s been “totally hands on” from the beginning, and the collection features pieces that reflect his personal style and taste. The press release reads, “Even some of Nick’s sketches and doodles from his personal journal feature on the designs, and his dog, PIG (yes, written in capitals), has been illustrated to become the official collection mascot and logo.” Oh, please. The range includes a mix of “iconic” (yes, iconic, no less) jackets, coats and shirts. Nick loves leopard print, apparently, so it appears on the collar of a monogrammed collegiate jacket, and more prominently on a knee-length coat. How terribly rock ’n’ roll. Not sure if “Grimmy” can do for Topman what Kate Moss did for Topshop, though, somehow. —
The designers at Scandinavian denim brand Cheap Monday have clearly been having a wild old time designing their latest collection for s/s 16, entitled Nuclear Psychodelia, which was presented as a catwalk show at Stockholm Fashion Week towards the end of August. Clothes “torn by acid rain”, with glowing atoms and ash clouds forming part of the set, the men’s and women’s line is definitely not for the faint-hearted. Cropped tops for men might be ok if you’re Sven from Sweden with a tanned six-pack, but I’m not sure if it’s going to work for Barry from Bolton with his 12-pack from Asda. The voluminous white Lionel Blair (flares) are something last seen at Wigan Casino in the 70s. And, for old Northern Soul enthusiasts, they may well be top of the shopping list for next spring, but somehow I doubt there’s going to be a big flares revival going on for men. Of course, we’ve seen it as a womenswear trend, but these days most of the kids count straight-leg jeans as Lionel’s, and they like their sneakers too much to cover them up with surplus swinging cloth. —
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LAST ORDERS WITH... PAT SALTER Far from the usual “celebrity” fashion lines, Liam Gallagher’s brand Pretty Green is enjoying huge success both on home and international shores. Victoria Jackson caught up with Gallagher’s right-hand man and creative director, Pat Salter, to see what’s at the heart of the rock and roll label. —
DOB: 29/5/76 Place of birth: Bexley Lives now: Bexley Twitter: @PrettyGreenltd Website: www.prettygreen.com
How did your career with Pretty Green begin? I was previously working at Ted Baker, and I knew the wholesale manager at Pretty Green. Dean West (head of global sales) and the team needed a denim designer, and I guess the rest is history. Does Liam Gallagher work closely with the design team? Yes, absolutely. Liam is definitely involved in the design process, whether it be suggesting specific products he wants to develop or simply signing off a colour palette. He’s very active within the office and involved in various functions of the business, from design to marketing, from start to finish. He signs off pretty much everything we do. What do you think is behind the success of the brand? I think it’s the combination of nailing strong design and attention to detail, with an overriding bonus of competitive price points – which ultimately is what our customer is after. Aside from the UK, which is your best performing market? I would say Japan. It really digs the aesthetic of British rock and roll. Plus we feel that we have the size and fit just right for the Japanese customer – which is massively important within that market. What characteristics are at the core of the Pretty Green guy? Attitude, confidence, pride and a sense of belonging. Are trends still an important factor when designing a collection? Trends are important to every fashion brand, whether it be which cloths are popular that season or which colour palettes are most prominent on the runway. However, we have a confident and considered DNA of rock and roll, which is a constant thread throughout the collections. Therefore we are hugely inspired by the decades and music personalities from the past, and in particular the 60s and 70s.
What does s/s 16 have in store? With every collection, it will have the Pretty Green DNA running throughout. But of course there will be lots of newness to expect; we have a pre-collection, which drops in November, and I’m really into that as a bridge collection. There are some strong prints throughout the range that are all designed in house, reinforcing the brand’s DNA, that I am really looking forward to wearing. My inspiration comes from everywhere – I travel quite a lot, so I’m inspired by everything from the countries I’m lucky enough to visit down to the man in the street who’s got his own thing going on. Which other labels would we find hanging in your wardrobe? I am a huge fan of considered design and pieces with intricate detailing. In particular, I really like wearing Japanese brands. Their attention to detail is on another level and inspires me a lot. I am also a big fan of Stone Island; being a fashion tech geek at heart, the science behind the construction and performance of the cloths the brand uses is really impressive. What would you say is your most prized clothing item? My first Visvim jacket bought on my first-ever visit to Japan. Finally, who’s your best-dressed male? Brian Jones.
QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Last film you watched? Kingsman. — Biggest vice? Buying clothes. — Early bird or night owl? Both. — What advice would you give your teenage self? Invest money in clothes and women. —
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