MWB MAGAZINE DECEMBER ISSUE 226 by fashion buyers Ltd

ISSUE 226 | DECEMBER 2015 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BRIGHT IDEA THE FUTURE OF THE PREMIUM GROUP FIRST DATES OUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE A/W 16 TRADE FAIRS THE LATEST ADVENTURE WHAT’S NEXT FOR ICONIC BRITISH OUTERWEAR LABEL, GRENFELL

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DECEMBER 2015 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 12

Online Insider Advice, news and issues online

Retail Insider The latest in-store news

E-commerce for SMEs Advice on how smaller businesses can make the most of online

Souks and silks The Moroccan manufacturing landscape

Product News Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock Raining men

In-season stock Brief encounter

Pitti preview The brands to catch at the forthcoming edition

Bright future The growth of the Premium Group

Panoramic view of fashion What’s next for Panorama

Fashion forte Emerging talent from London Collections Men

Exhibition calendar The dates and locations for the new season’s shows

Clean cut look for Edwin The latest development for denim specialist Edwin

A great British classic Profiling iconic label Grenfell

R E G U L A R S 7 8 22

Comment News Interview Ben Andrew

52 55 58

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With… Fiona Mills

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Libertine-Libertine

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E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com

DECEMBER 2015 | 07

COMMENT

— D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2015 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

T’was the month before Christmas, and all through the house, not a creature was stirring, apart from the computer mouse. As the high street prepared for a barrage of customers on Black Friday, the thought of crushing crowds meant stores were calm as people turned online for festive bargains. — It’s fair to say, Black Friday and Cyber Monday have now become two of the biggest days in the UK retail calendar, even outshining the once traditional Boxing Day sales. Last year, UK consumers spent a staggering £1.4bn on these two days alone, and this year was no different, with total sales for the four-day event (including Saturday and Sunday) surpassing £3bn. However, across the high street, the much-anticipated Black Friday sales were met with a ripple rather than a stampede, as shoppers turned to the web in search of bargains. In fact, footfall across the UK for the weekend was down 9.6 per cent on the year, according to a report by data analyst Springboard. Proof indeed that retailers need to make sure their online and in-store operations are in-sync and up to scratch when bargain hunters descend next year. Anticipating peak times and analysing data for the future is essential to avoid straining online operations. Even the big boys weren’t exempt from caving under the high volumes of traffic. The surge of online sales caused technical issues for the likes of River Island, Boohoo.com, Boots and John Lewis, whose website went down on Friday afternoon for nearly an hour. One IT analyst estimated that the company could have experienced up to £2.8m in lost revenue. And while some customers took to Twitter to vent their frustrations about waiting times and spinning web pages, most will agree that, as the cold weather firmly set in, queuing online was much preferable to queuing in-store. Shopping online also allowed consumers to get the best price possible for big ticket items, and whether or not you succumbed to the Black Friday hype in your own store, it’s undeniable that there is money to be made. Something to consider for next December at least. This issue of MWB is our first peek at the a/w 16 season, taking a look at the shows to visit and the brands to catch. With the show calendar starting so soon after the festive period, it’s never too early to start planning. Finally, I just want to take this opportunity to wish you all a very merry Christmas and a prosperous New Year. Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

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DECEMBER 2015 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

UK SET TO SPEND £16.5BN ON CHRISTMAS

RETAILERS NEED TO UP THEIR GAME TO STAND OUT Consumer spending on clothing rose 4 per cent in 2015 to £53.5 billion, as consumers have adopted a savvier approach to clothes shopping, despite an improved economy, latest figures from industry analyst Mintel have revealed. In its report Clothing Retailing UK, published in October, the research firm reveals that while the clothing sector has performed strongly, the unseasonal weather has impacted on retailers’ sales and slowed growth. Many key players in the market, such as Primark, Next and M&S, blamed this on the warmer a/w 14 and cooler s/s 15, which dissuaded consumers from buying clothes. Widespread discounting across the clothing sector has continued this year, with many retailers introducing earlier summer sales. Mintel suggests that the high level of clothes on promotion throughout the year has created a discount mentality where consumers expect to buy clothes on sale or special offer. Sales growth is therefore expected to be weaker in 2015 compared to 2014. Pureplay and sports retailers, however, continue to be the winning retailers in the sector. Online-only stores are fast gaining share of the clothing market, and while they only account for 5.4 per cent of total clothing spend, it is the channel that has grown the most in the last year, increasing by nearly one percentage point in 2015 in a year-on-year comparison. Pureplay accounts for around 27 per cent of all online sales of clothing, with Amazon, Asos and Boohoo all recording impressive growth. Sports goods, meanwhile, have gained share to account for over 10 per cent of the clothing market, driven by strong performances at Sports Direct and JD Sports, as well as specialist sports stores. Sales have been driven by the ongoing fashion trend for sporty styles, with over half of consumers buying sports clothing for leisurewear rather than participating in a sport. According to Mintel, the overall online clothing and accessories market is to reach £10.7 billion, accounting for 20 per cent of total spending on the market. Fashion remains the most popular product category bought online, whether on a laptop/desktop computer, a smartphone or a tablet computer. —

According to new research from e-commerce partner Webloyalty, consumers’ festive budgets are getting bigger, with the UK planning to spend £16.5bn on Christmas shopping this year. Despite retailers kick-starting their Christmas advertising campaigns in November, the research suggests that over a third of the population don’t actually start their Christmas shop until December, with the average consumer looking to spend a total of £442 this Christmas. Findings also revealed that four out of 10 consumers plan to use their mobiles to search for festive purchases, and that the average person is expected to spend 10 hours shopping for Christmas food and gifts online, which is up from nine hours last year. This indicates that as well as more people shopping online, they are also spending far longer browsing due to the increased choice available. —

A RETAIL RECORD FOR JOULES November marked three store openings for British lifestyle brand Joules: in Dublin – the brand’s 100th shop – in Meadowhall, Sheffield, and a larger location in Harrogate. The new shops are part of the brand’s strategic national retail growth, which encompasses market towns, metro sites, coastal and travel locations, and complements Joules’ ecommerce channel and wholesale presence. “We’re really excited about the opening of our two new stores in Sheffield and Harrogate,” says Andrea Gray, retail director at Joules. “The openings are down to our record performance and another period of exceptional growth for the brand. Our aim is to continue to develop as a lifestyle brand, with the mission to create fun, quality products which stand the test of time, and to continuously deliver what our customers love.” —

DECEMBER 2015 | NEWS | 09

IN BRIEF

J.W ANDERSON TAKES HOME DOUBLE ACCOLADE

PERRY ELLIS INTERNATIONAL APPOINTS EUROPEAN MD

The British Fashion Awards 2015 took place last month at the London Coliseum, with guests including David and Victoria Beckham, Tinie Tempah, Kate Bosworth and Liv Tyler. Menswear Designer of the Year went to J.W Anderson, who was also named Womenswear Designer of the Year. The Emerging Womenswear Designer accolade went to Thomas Tait, whilst Grace Wales Bonner picked up the Emerging Menswear Designer award. Other recipients included Jordan Askill, Emerging Accessory Designer; Jourdan Dunn, Model of the year; Burberry, Creative Campaign; and Stella McCartney, Brand of the Year. Mid-ceremony, supermodels took to the stage to showcase designs by Anya Hindmarch, Burberry, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Paul Smith, Sibling, Topshop Unique and Victoria Beckham. —

Perry Ellis International has appointed Elliott Brown as European managing director of Perry Ellis Europe Ltd. Brown has previously held positions as vice president at Wolverine Worldwide, overseeing its heritage brands, as well as Barbour, Converse and Levi’s. In his role as European managing director, Brown will be responsible for overseeing the Original Penguin, Farah and Callaway apparel brands, which have expanded significantly within Europe in the last several years. Due to this ongoing success, Perry Ellis Europe will also add Perry Ellis America and Nike Swim to its portfolio. “We are delighted to welcome Elliott to Perry Ellis Europe,” says George Feldenkreis, CEO and chairman of Perry Ellis International. “We are confident that his solid commercial experience and leadership will further accelerate our strategic expansion throughout Europe.” —

DEICHMANN’S HEAD OFFICE CEMENTS UK EXPANSION

NEWGEN MEN RECIPIENTS ANNOUNCED

Europe’s biggest footwear retailer, Deichmann Shoes, has announced plans to move its UK head office to a new development in Market Harborough, Leicestershire. The brand launched to the UK 15 years ago, however, the last five years in particular have seen substantial growth, with over 50 per cent of the currently 96 stores having opened in this timeframe alone. Deichmann’s portfolio includes flagships in London’s Westfield Stratford and Westfield London, with plans to open a minimum of eight stores in 2016. At 1,500 sq m, the new office space will not only provide more room for staff as the brand continues to grow, but will also benefit from tailored space solutions including bespoke range rooms to house the thousands of sample shoes the brand’s buyers work with each season. —

The British Fashion Council has announced the emerging menswear talents who will receive this season’s NEWGEN Men support, sponsored by Topman. The ten recipients, who include Liam Hodges for the first time, will showcase their a/w 16 collection at London Collections Men in January. Hodges will join existing NEWGEN Men designers Agi & Sam (catwalk), Alex Mullins (presentation), Astrid Andersen (catwalk), Bobby Abley (catwalk), Cottweiler (presentation), Craig Green (catwalk), Diego Vanassibara (installation), Nasir Mazhar (catwalk) and PIETER (presentation). “Each season we find it harder to decide on the finalists,” says Jason Griffiths, marketing director of Topman. “I’m very much looking forward to seeing what our designers bring to the table during January’s LCM and to reaffirming London as the hottest showcase on the menswear calendar.” —

MCARTHURGLEN TO DOUBLE RETAIL SPACE BY 2019 McArthurGlen, which owns Cheshire Oaks and Ashford Designer Outlet in the UK, has announced it is looking to expand its global retail space to around 9,687,500 sq ft by 2019. As Europe’s leading owner, developer and manager of designer outlets, McArthurGlen is looking to capitalise on its strong financial performance, which has seen its portfolio turnover grow by almost 30 per cent in the last three years to around 3.5 billion Euros. Since the beginning of this year, McArthurGlen has driven double-digit growth in both footfall and customer spend across its centres and has grown tourism sales by over 40 per cent. The eight McArthurGlen sites that are expanding include Ashford in the UK, La Reggia in Naples, Noventa di Piave in Venice, Serravalle in Milan, Parndorf in Austria, Roermond in the Netherlands and the recently expanded Neumunster in Hamburg. Seven new sites are being planned in Ghent, Malaga, Normandie, Provence, Remscheid and two centres in Istanbul. — PUMA UNVEILS BAPE® COLLABORATION Puma has released its latest collaboration, this time with iconic streetwear label BAPE®. The capsule collection, modelled by footballer Mario Balotelli, features a fusion of classic streetwear and sports by integrating BAPE®’s iconic camouflage print and graphics into Puma’s sports performance apparel and footwear. By applying its unique design aesthetics to some of Puma’s most classic and well-known styles, BAPE® has create a unique range. The original 90s R698 shoes have been given a distinctive refresh with BAPE®’s black camo design, whilst the Disc Blaze has been given an update in a classic green camouflage print. Other key items include the BAPE® Shark Hoodie, based on the iconic and best-selling design from the brand’s mainline. The range extends to accessories, including bags and football socks. The BAPE® duffle bag, constructed from highly durable polyester body fabric, offers consumers a performance training silhouette with a streetwear edge. — STANCE OPENS NEW YORK FLAGSHIP STORE Five years after it sold its first pair of socks, Stance has opened its first flagship store in the heart of New York. Located in Soho, the store measures 2,000 sq ft and is housed in a building that’s over 100 years old, giving the brand the opportunity to work with the Landmarks Preservation Commission to bring the heritage of the original building to life with a modern twist. Along with its expansive offer of casual and lifestyle collections, other key ranges highlighted in the store include Stance’s NBA line, along with men’s and women’s performance socks and men’s underwear, which is a new category for the brand. One key feature of the store’s interior is a glass panel in the floor which allows customers to watch sock artisans bring custom socks to life through Stance Canvas. Shoppers use an in-store Apple iPad Pro to design a custom pair of socks, incorporating colour, patterns and text. —

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DECEMBER 2015 | NEWS | 10

IN BRIEF

SUPERGROUP REPORTS STRONG TRADING

BRICK LANE BIKES LAUNCHES CLOTHING LINE

SuperGroup, the company behind lifestyle label Superdry, has announced a group revenue increase of 22.4 per cent to £254.9m for the half-year period ended 24 October, reflecting positive growth in existing retail and wholesale channels and a healthy new store pipeline. Strong sales, particularly within the company’s e-commerce division, delivered like-for-like retail growth of 15.5 per cent in the 13 week period to 24 October 2015, albeit against weak comparatives in the financial year 2015. This follows like-for-like retail sales growth of 20.3 per cent for the first 10 weeks of the year. Wholesale continued to perform well, with revenue of 8 per cent in the 26 week period to 24 October 2015, with the group’s North American operation as well as continued growth across its core franchise and wholesale operations credited as key factors. —

Licensing and brand management company Foundry Brands has signed a deal with urban cycling brand Brick Lane Bikes London and clothing company Heritage Apparel to create a collection of cycle inspired casualwear under the Brick Lane Bikes name. The debut collection will launch for s/s 16 and will comprise T-shirts, sweats, hoodies, track pants and shorts. This will be followed by a more comprehensive collection come a/w 16, set to include outerwear and woven shirts. “We are excited to be working with the team at Brick Lane,” says Tim Gardiner, director of Heritage Apparel. “With the huge growth in cycling and its influence on fashion, we see a great opportunity to develop the Brick Lane Bikes brand in the sports casualwear market. It has an unrivalled position globally in cycling. That, coupled with its heritage, makes a compelling starting point for the collection”. —

SANDQVIST APPOINTS NEW CEO

COACH TO RELOCATE REGENT STREET STORE

Swedish accessory brand Sandqvist has appointed a new CEO, Caroline Andersson, following founder Anton Sandqvist’s decision to step down. Andersson comes from Craft Sportswear, where she worked as Assortment Manager, and most recently as Commercial Manager. Sandqvist’s HQ is located in Stockholm, with 20 employees, three physical stores, an online store and further plans to launch international stores over the next ten years. “Sandqvist is a wonderful company and brand with high quality products,” says Andersson. “Moreover, it is looking to take things to the next level, which I see as a very fun and exciting challenge to take on,” she adds. Moving forward, Anton Sandqvist will devote time to collection design and helping to build the brand internationally. —

Coach, Inc has announced the move of its Regent Street store to the current Jaeger store, located at 200-206 Regent Street. Expected to open in autumn 2016, the 27,500 sq ft store will incorporate a Stuart Weitzman store (owned by Coach Inc) – a first for Regent Street. “We’re excited about this pivotal move for us,” says Nigel Darwin, president of Coach Europe. “We look forward to the creation of a new Coach House and are confident that our Modern Luxury store environment, showcasing the breadth of Coach’s rich heritage and commitment to craftsmanship, along with product designed by Stuart Vevers, will resonate with international and local customers. “Following our recently opened Paris flagship store on Rue Saint-Honore, this move demonstrates our continued commitment to brand transformation and development within Europe,” he adds. —

BENTLEY CLOTHING FIGHTS FOR TRADEMARK British lifestyle label Bentley Clothing is currently dealing with a lengthy legal battle against Bentley Motors in regard to the registered trademarks for its apparel offer. The brand, which was founded in 1962, registered the trademarks for Bentley Clothing in 1982. Bentley Motors, however, have applied to have the trademarks cancelled following the launch of its apparel collection in 2005. Owned by father and son, Bob and Christopher Lees, the brand was once sold in hundreds of stockists nationwide, and at its peak had a turnover of £5m. The Lees family bought the brand from founder Gerald Bentley in 1991. Last month the Lees family filed a defence to the Intellectual Property Office, reasoning that they own the trademarks and will therefore be continuing to operate the brand. Bentley Motors will have the opportunity to respond. Bentley Clothing is currently stocked in Baldwins department store, Essex, Total Cricket, Ashton-under-Lyne, and as a concession in Broadstone Mill, Stockport and Ena Mill, Wigan. — SELFRIDGES ACQUIRES DEPARTMENT STORE ARNOTTS The Selfridges Group has acquired Irish department store group, Arnotts, for an undisclosed sum. Selfridges plans to invest in Arnotts by “enhancing the shopping experience”, updating the store environment and introducing new premium brands to its portfolio. The group purchased Arnotts from Fitzwilliam Finance Partners, which was set up in 2011 by Irish property developer Noel Smyth. Selfridges also owns Holt Renfrew in Canada, Brown Thomas in Ireland and Bijenkorf in the Netherlands. — RAGING BULL FOUNDER RECEIVES HONORARY AWARD Phil Vickery MBE, former professional rugby player and founder of clothing label Raging Bull, has received an Honorary Doctorate from the University of Gloucestershire. In presenting his award at Gloucester Cathedral, Mike Cogger, Dean of Applied Sciences at the University of Gloucestershire, said, “Phil is an excellent role model combining a love of sport, success in business and a real desire to make a difference in his community.” Born in Barnstaple, Devon, Phil has enjoyed a hugely successful rugby union career, playing mostly for Gloucester RFC, making 145 appearances during 11 years at the city’s Kingsholm ground. He captained his country at the 2007 Rugby World Cup, and was capped 73 times by England and twice by the British and Irish Lions. — LEEDS FASHION INITIATIVE LAUNCHES WITH FASHION SHOW As part of a new initiative to regenerate the local fashion, clothing and textiles landscape, the Leeds Fashion Initiative (LFI) was officially launched during an exclusive event at Leeds City Museum last month. Guests gathered to celebrate the launch and listened to speeches by the leader of Leeds City Council, Councillor Judith Blake; Ishwari Thopte, representative of London College of Fashion’s Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE); and retail director of Leeds indie Lambert’s Yard, Adam Jagger.

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DECEMBER 2015 | ADVICE | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: SELLING ACROSS BORDERS — THE KEY TO GLOBAL GROWTH

JULIAN WALLIS is head of sales UK & Ireland, Ingenico Payment Services

In days gone by, shopping for clothes was a straightforward experience. You browsed for items at your favourite shops and made your purchase in-store. So long as retailers could take cash and card payments, they could reliably ensure they were capturing the vast share of their potential market. In recent years, however, all that has changed. With the proliferation of new technologies such as smartphones and tablets, consumers have access to multiple ways of browsing and purchasing. As shopping moves towards a more integrated online and offline retail experience, retailers are racing to capitalise on the opportunity to increase sales, by providing payment options across multiple consumer channels. However, the businesses that truly stand to take advantage of these changing market dynamics are those that look beyond their national borders. So what steps must they take to place themselves in pole position? Firstly, retailers should carry out a payment methods mapping exercise and establish which countries and regions they want to target. A good example is Wiggle, a UK-based online retailer for sporting goods and clothing that has fully localised its sites depending on the specific needs of the target markets. Wiggle has adapted all aspects of its payment pages including domain, text and language options, as well as the relevant payment options to serve consumers in 14 countries. Taking such a localised approach is one of the smartest strategies for expanding e-commerce across borders, and can give the greatest possible chance of increased conversion rates. Secondly, retailers should aim to work with payment service providers (PSP) that offer collect services on local and international payment methods via a single contract, making the process far easier. A single contract enables retailers to expand quickly and to accept all kinds of payment methods. Without this service, merchants would need to open their own bank account and legal entities internationally before they can start selling. An estimated 60 per cent of all online cross-border transactions are not completed because international buyers are not provided with adequate payment methods. Retailers should choose a PSP that provides international expansion consultancy and specialist knowledge on local and international payment methods. This localisation is essential for crossborder e-commerce success. As it becomes easier to market and sell across borders, those who move quickest are likely to thrive. —

WEB WATCH

WWW.HUNTERBOOTS.COM Stepping close to its 160th anniversary, iconic wellington boot label Hunter continues to innovate both in the design and digital sense for s/s 16. Its London Fashion Week runway show was broadcast on Periscope, through its website and by using Grabyo – a service which shows snippets of live television to targeted audiences on social media. The website has also been redesigned with more focus on content and a simplified user experience. —

NEWS

BARBOUR UNVEILS LATEST ONLINE CAMPAIGN To celebrate its long association with the great outdoors, British lifestyle brand Barbour has launched a global Twitter and Instagram campaign that aims to drive consumer engagement and to encourage fans to explore the countryside around them. The campaign, created by Cult LDN and produced in collaboration with Brother Film Co, is called ‘The Heritage of Adventure’ and centres on a video showing British Adventurer of the Year 2014 Sean Conway on a journey through the Lake District in an attempt to capture the perfect picture. Fans are then invited to share photographs of their own outdoor adventures via Twitter or Instagram using the hashtag #HeritageOfAdventure for the chance to win full outfits from the latest men’s and ladies’ lifestyle collections from the brand – Great Coat and Arctic Expedition. These collections feature chunky knits, quilted wax jackets and 100 per cent wool accessories. FARFETCH.COM LAUNCHES SAME DAY DELIVERY Boutique e-commerce platform Farfetch has launched a same day delivery service, available in nine key cities worldwide, including London, New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Barcelona, Milan, Madrid, Paris and Rome. Farfetch has both an online as well as offline presence and operates a network of 300 boutiques, with 50 stores having signed up to the new service, including Feathers in London, Kirna Zabête in New York, Just One Eye in Los Angeles, The Webster in Miami, Jean Pierre Bua in Barcelona, Excelsior in Milan, Gallery + in Madrid, L’Eclaireur in Paris and Gente in Rome. “Our customers are at the heart of what we do”, said José Neves, Farfetch CEO and founder. “Following our customers’ feedback, we wanted to provide a more farreaching same day delivery service than traditional models and we are excited to be able to launch it in a big way – in nine major cities. Our goal is to provide a 360 degree shopping experience like no other and our same day delivery service is another layer of commitment to our loyal Farfetch customer base.” Orders placed before 10am Monday to Friday are eligible for same day delivery, costing £18, US $25 or 25¤. —

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DECEMBER 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

VIEWPOINT NICHOLAS BROWN is the Managing Director of Browns York. Browns in a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB)

TIMOTHY EVEREST OPENS FLAGSHIP Tailor Timothy Everest has opened a new flagship store on London’s Redchurch Street, commemorating the 25th anniversary of his bespoke label. The second store within the capital – which follows the Mayfair store opening offering a formal RTW line and made-to-measure service – Redchurch Street will showcase a more causal line. The store will also offer a unique bespoke customer experience, where shoppers can choose to make any Timothy Everest garment in any cloth available from swatches in-store. In terms of interiors, the store fuses Eastern and Western architectural influences, from a sliding shoji screen, to Georgian panelling, tatami mats and lead window frames. The new opening comes as a result of a new partnership with ex-Superdry co-founder Theo Karpathios, that sees a strong focus on the label’s retail and online business. The new Timothy Everest store can be found at 37 Redchurch Street, London, E2. —

IN BRIEF 100TH STORE FOR JOULES Fashion and lifestyle retailer Joules opened its 100th store in November, in Dublin. Located on Wicklow Street, the landmark store also marks the brand’s first city centre store in the Republic of Ireland, its other store is in designer outlet shopping centre Kildare Village. The Dublin store spans two floors and will stock menswear, womenswear and childrenswear. —

KESTIN HARE’S FOURFRONT COLLABORATION British designer Kestin Hare played host to a celebration of emerging British talent in November, welcoming fellow independent labels Freddie Grubb, Instrmnt and Country of Origin, under the concept FourFront. Having organically connected through a shared passion for design-led products, FourFront held a launch party and showcase at the Kestin Hare store in Shoreditch. Guests met with designers and enjoyed refreshments courtesy of The Botanist Gin and Bruichladdich Whisky. —

I believe that menswear is the one area where retailers are seeing potential for growth. Menswear outperforms womenswear pro rata the space it occupies here at Browns. The British man is travelling more and is noticing how the continental man dresses, and the football culture of the Premier League has brought tailoring back into the mainstream. While the womenswear sector might have reached saturation point at some level, we have seen year-on-year growth in menswear at our York, Helmsley and Gainsborough stores. This buoyancy means we have been able to bring in some more fashionable, progressive brands such as Gant, Tommy Hilfiger and Ted Baker. We’ve stocked Ted Baker for three years now and it remains our bestseller. We are also seeing a big growth curve in premium casualwear; a reflection that the menswear customer is prepared to have a higher spend on himself and is beginning to appreciate quality fabrics and design. Polo Golf (Ralph Lauren) is a case in point and is showing strong growth with our customer, too. I think the media has something to do with the way men are paying more attention to how they dress. High-profile, well-dressed men on the television and in magazines influence consumers. Footwear has been another growth area for us. Much like in clothing, men are becoming more attuned to the importance of good quality footwear and what statement it makes about a person. It’s a detail that seemed to be ignored by a section of the population previously. Alongside Loake and Barker, we have Carl Scarpa from Dublin and Josef Seibel in our growing leisure footwear category. Menswear is the one sector that is making retailers smile and feel good at the moment. It’s encouraging to be in growth and be in a position to plan for the future. As an independent, we are very aware that we need to be looking to own-brand lines in the future in order to improve our margins. This will certainly be on our radar going forwards. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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DECEMBER 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: UTTER NUTTER How did you handle Black Friday? Last year it was kind of a new thing for us here in the UK. People didn’t really know what to make of it. But, this year, it seems that the high street got on it a week beforehand. It was massively hyped. Previously, I didn’t want to do it, because I wanted to maintain margins. However, we decided to use it as a mini Sale on selected items rather than a 20 per cent blanket discount on the store. — What was the reaction? KASHIF QAZI What we saw was a larger increase in footfall, and we had OWNER, UTTER NUTTER, ROMFORD, a combination of different customers. We had the ones ESSEX looking for a bargain, but we also had a lot of deferred sales, as people had been waiting to see what was going to go in the Black Friday Sale, then when they came in and saw what they wanted wasn’t in the Sale, they bought it anyway. So in the end it was a positive thing. Apart from the fact that we barely sold any of our discounted stock. — What was selling? We’re a denim specialist and we sold so many pairs of jeans and what we call “double denim”, as in two pairs at once. Diesel was particularly strong. When you’re talking about most of our jeans being between £130 and £200, it was very good for us. We sold maybe four or five times more than we would normally sell on a Friday – even an end-of-themonth Friday. Even compared to last Black Friday we were 50 per cent up. The Saturday following it was busy, too, so I think it really kick-started Christmas shopping. —

IN FOCUS: HENRI BEENE 28-32 ABBEYGATE, GRIMSBY, NORTH-EAST LINCOLNSHIRE DN31 1JY

ESTABLISHED: 1989 — BRANDS: PAUL SMITH, HUGO BOSS, BELSTAFF, CP COMPANY, ARMANI JEANS, BOSS GREEN, BOSS ORANGE, STONE ISLAND, BARBOUR, PAUL & SHARK, HOLLAND ESQUIRE, REMUS UOMO, CIRCLE OF GENTLEMEN, PS BY PAUL SMITH

ROY ROBSON OPENS ITS DOORS IN PARIS German tailoring and lifestyle label, Roy Robson, has expanded its European presence further with the launch of its first standalone store in Paris. Located at 110 Avenue Victor Hugo, 75016, Paris, the store measures 40 sq m and features a combination of dark chrome, tinted glass and concrete in an exciting interplay of contrasting textures. L-shaped metal shelves mounted on black walls complement the colours of the other materials and can be flexibly arranged to create a mosaic pattern. The interior also includes a leather pelt rug under the entrance furniture, emphasising the masculine elegance of the store design. —

IN BRIEF

Located just off the main high street, in a converted Victorian brewery yard now established as an alternative high-street destination, Henri Beene offers men’s mid-premium fashion collections. Brands that were performing 20-odd years ago are still performing, namely Paul Smith, Stone Island and Hugo Boss, though new brands that don’t necessarily have such sales longevity are often introduced to freshen things up. While the shop has an element of customers who like to buy “safe”, it also has an appreciative audience for more creative design that frequently negates the discount culture and gives a reason to buy. The store itself is an eclectic mix of modern fittings, counterbalanced with period decorative pieces. Being based in Grimsby, famous for its fishing, the shop is now benefiting from a new customer base coming into town with the Renewable Energy Projects, which have seen large companies such as Siemens set up plants. Henri Beene owner René Darnell says, “Grimsby benefits from the deep sea docks, which have resulted in a lot of international companies coming in. There are also a lot of UK workers here how, coming from the North East and Liverpool. We’re getting new customers we didn’t have before.” Music to any independent’s ears. —

HAMILTON AND HARE UNVEIL SQUARE MILE POP-UP Underwear label Hamilton and Hare opened its first pop-up store in London’s Square Mile in November, which will run until Christmas Eve. Based at The Royal Exchange, the pop-up also features brands Huez* and Soar. With a premium offering of underwear, sleepwear and loungewear, the brand complements the existing retail mix whilst appealing to a younger demographic. The Royal Exchange popup space will act as the precursor to the opening of Hamilton and Hare’s first permanent retail flagship in spring 2016. —

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THINK YOU KNOW

GEOGRAPHICAL NORWAY

Changes are coming this February as Moda evolves with a new format for the new season. Returning to Birmingham’s NEC on 21-23 February, Moda will feature new locations for each of its five sectors, and the creation of new unisex areas between Moda Woman and Moda Gent.

February 2016 sees the arrival of a brand new format for the UK’s largest trade fashion exhibition, paving the way for a new layout across all the Moda shows and the arrival of a raft of new names and new features. The new location for Moda Gent maintains the show’s border with Moda Footwear, home to the season’s biggest line-up of men’s footwear brands, but also introduces a new border with Moda Woman, creating a new area for unisex fashion. February 2016 also sees the launch of Moda’s brand new Outdoor Lifestyle zone, another unisex area bringing together the best in fashion and accessories, for the field, the coast and all active lifestyles. Alongside these new features you’ll still find Moda Gent’s matchless offer of bestselling brands and new arrivals. New names for the forthcoming show include Geographical Norway, Channel Jumper and Lyn Oakes, alongside established brands such as Olymp, Camel Active, Gibson and Meyer.

As the sector’s national show, Moda is relied upon by professionals nationwide as the industry meeting hub. The event’s location within a purpose-built facility makes meeting easy, with VIP lounges and breakout zones designed to make catching up with like-minded professionals all part of the experience. Join colleagues and suppliers on the Gent plaza from 4pm on Sunday and Monday for the Moda Gent Happy Hour, sponsored by Skopes Menswear, and if you’re visiting the show on Sunday make sure you stick around for the post-show drinks party kicking off at 6pm. With Moda Footwear marking the biggest gathering of footwear professionals of the season, the annual Footwear Industry Awards will again be running on the Monday night of the show. Taking place at Birmingham’s National Conference Centre – formerly the Motorcycle Museum – on Sunday 21 February, the event, organised by Datateam, celebrates the achievements of brands, retailers and people from across the footwear trade.

21-23 FEBRUARY 2016 NEC BIRMINGHAM EXHIBITOR LIST NOW LIVE ON THE NEW-LOOK MODA WEBSITE DON’T MISS A THING THIS SEASON. REGISTER FOR YOUR FREE TICKET NOW AT MODA-UK.CO.UK

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MODA? Go beyond the line sheets to discover fashion as it was intended at the industry’s live event. Tomorrow’s styles are elevated into a real-time showcase as Moda’s inspiring catwalk shows return to the stage, while models are on hand to bring individual brands’ designs to life. Moda’s ever-popular seminar programme will also make a welcome return this season, bringing the most relevant commercial strategy into the context of your business. Delivered by engaging speakers as part of an interactive forum, each seminar is designed to help retailers stay ahead of their game no matter how small their set-up.

Experience Moda’s brand-new dimension, as Resorts World opens its doors in time for the new autumn season. The integrated £150m leisure and entertainment resort houses one of the country’s only 24-hour casinos, alongside a chic spa-hotel, a cinema, bars and restaurants for the ultimate in post-show entertainment. Visitors can enjoy pan Asian-influenced cuisine with lakeside views before relaxing at the resort’s New York-inspired sky bar – all without setting foot outside the grounds of the NEC. The Robata Bar & Grill, meanwhile, live streams 60 sports channels, allowing guests to control their viewing choice from their own private booths, ensuring that none of the sporting action is missed when live events coincide with Moda. Elsewhere in the NEC, Moda maintains its partnerships with all of the NEC’s major hotel chains, offering visitors exclusive rates through Reservation Highway (www.reservation-highway.co.uk). It has never been so easy to drive, fly or travel by rail directly into the complex and to stay over in a relaxed and convenient setting.

BRAND NEW: OUTDOOR LIFESTYLE Moda’s new Outdoor Lifestyle zone, located within Moda Gent, launches this season, bringing together lifestyle fashion for outdoor pursuits with a strong focus on heritage labels for both men and women. With a line-up of established labels including Magee, Alan Paine, Brakeburn, Falke, Chrysalis, Noble Wilde, House of Cheviot, Dents, Harley of Scotland, Tilley Hats, Cap Frehel, Channel Jumper, Dock of the Bay and Henry Arroway, Outdoor Lifestyle adds a whole new dimension to Moda, bringing the Great Outdoors to the sector’s most accessible national exhibition.

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ECOMMERCE FOR SMES Ian Jindal, editor-in-chief and founder of e-commerce trade magazine Internet Retailing, is also a consultant, keynote speaker and board-level advisor to major retail and consumer businesses including House of Fraser, Marks & Spencer and John Lewis. Here, he applies his expertise to SMEs, and advises how smaller businesses can make the most of ecommerce. —

Experts predict that around 85.4 per cent of the UK population shops online and 69 per cent of consumers use credit cards as their primary method of payment. Clearly, the online retail market in the UK is on the rise. The reason? It is a great time to be a shopper, and it’s getting better all the time. Never before has it been so easy to find and buy the retail products consumers want to have. Thanks to the growth of digital, and in particular mcommerce, consumers can check and compare product details and prices in a few clicks, wherever they are. And, when they have found the item they want, it is just a few keystrokes more to buy and arrange convenient delivery. Nowadays, customers have high expectations. They want to shop in-store, but they also want the option of looking online – whether that be on their laptop, desktop, mobile or tablet. As a result, retailers are re-evaluating the way they do business. In this new world of omnichannel commerce, the rulebook of how to run a retail business is cast aside, and merchants must adapt to survive. This sometimes portrays a challenge to large retailers who are changing and adjusting their

business model to this new more complex era. But if the big players are struggling, what about the small and medium businesses? With the high street continuing to evolve, retailers of all sizes need to keep up with modern shopping habits to ensure business growth, drive revenue and keep customers coming back – whether in-store or online. Businesses of all sizes find themselves needing to create an “always on” omnichannel presence or mobile app to attract new and repeat customers. Many small businesses in particular find this to be challenging. Nonetheless, this challenge should be tackled as an opportunity for them to level the playing field, because the demand is growing, and those who take the lead will win a competitive advantage. SMEs are more aware of the need but, if we analyse their adoption rate in recent years, there is still too great a rate of missed sales due, primarily, to poor implementation and observation of their customers’ habits. A study performed in 2013, found out that British SMEs were moving online in order to be more competitive. The amount of enterprises that created an ecommerce site increased by 19 per cent in the first three months of that year. In 2014, MasterCard’s MerchantScope study

found that while 90 per cent of small companies around the world have an online presence of some sort (though not necessarily a website), only one in five offered ecommerce capabilities. In other words, only 20 per cent of small and midsized firms let customers buy their products and services online. The same study says that small businesses are avoiding implementing ecommerce for two main reasons – cost (46 per cent) and lack of knowhow (31 per cent). Now that the underpinning technology that powers ecommerce is mature, scalable and cheap, it is also easier to understand and to implement. As a result, more and more businesses should seize the opportunity of becoming digital. The scale of change can be breathtaking, and the learning curve steep, but necessary. With this in mind, here are a few simple steps towards success: Simply BE online An ecommerce website can be relatively cheap and is an effective way to reach a wider audience. Although there may be a lack of technical expertise and understanding, there are off-theshelf solutions to purchase that can do it for you.

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“With the high street continuing to evolve, retailers of all sizes need to keep up with modern shopping habits to ensure business growth, drive revenue and keep customers coming back - whether in-store or online.”

Prepare to go mobile Today, customers see mobile as the remote control for the brands they trust. They expect to use their smartphones and tablet computers to manage information. By 2016, 61 per cent of web traffic will be driven by mobile, so make sure you and your website is ready for your mobile customers. Having adaptable platforms in mind from the beginning will make the investment less costly, but much more effective when seizing this growing audience. Also, provide a clear purchase path via smartphone and tablet, and test them thoroughly. Enhance the online customer experience and journey It is important to focus on the customer and understand what your customer base wants. Whether creating a website, mobile or tablet app, customers want to be able to recognise your brand, easily search for products and buy them without a hitch. Develop your operations and logistics systems When orders start to take off, it is important that solid logistics underpin your operations. Getting delivery right means traders win more sales, while

those who don’t, miss out. Returns or cancellation policies should be built efficiently while ensuring customer satisfaction and providing return on investment. Develop and strengthen your digital sales and marketing plan Building a successful multichannel sales and marketing strategy is the key to ecommerce sales growth and success. Make sure your messages are consistent across all channels, tailored to specific audiences, and remember to measure, test and learn. Be approachable through social media Social media can be key to digital strategy. Not only is it a powerful engagement tool, social media also allows brands to have conversations with their customers. Use it effectively to make yourself available and to respond to customers, however they get in touch. Know Your Customers Personalisation is an established trend in ecommerce, and for a reason. Successful personalisation means filtering your products or services to display items related to your customers’ previous purchases, buying habits or preferences. Provide your customer with relevant, personalised information which

engages them and keeps them coming back. Transform buyers into regulars Keep an eye on your customers’ satisfaction and perceived value of the experience they have when shopping from you. Work on a number of ways to add value to your goods or services, and think of benefits to offer in exchange of their loyalty. Give them a reason to come in-store When speaking to customers, online and on social media, give them a reason to come into the shop. Whether this is a percentage discount or complimentary treat, it will drive footfall. Even if it may sound challenging, what is required can be both simple and transforming. We are now well set up to adapt and change quickly and cost efficiently for future requirements. The high street and retail sector will continue to evolve, and businesses need to keep up with customer’s habits. People are going to be shopping faster and smarter, but the opportunities for SMEs are huge. For those willing to go digital, adapt, offer an integral and outstanding customer experience and fully integrate, there is a bright multichannel future ahead in ecommerce.

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SOUKS AND SILKS Morocco may initially be thought of as an obscure place for a tradeshow. However, after much of the UK textile business disappeared from there in 2011, the country is again emerging as a viable sourcing option. Last month, Rebecca Jackson visited the Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing fair in Marrakech to find out more. —

When among the vibrancy of Marrakech, it’s almost impossible to imagine that anything exists outside of this eclectic city. Looming silhouettes of the Atlas Mountains, which can be seen even from within the confines of the ancient medina, act as a constant reminder of Morocco’s diverse landscape. Great stretches of impenetrable desert lie further south; meanwhile, to the west is the vast North Atlantic Ocean. Positioned somewhere in between this sparse and varied landscape is Marrakech, the location of the Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing tradeshow. This year, the 12th edition of Maroc Sourcing and the 13th edition of Maroc in Mode, approximately 1,500 visitors descended upon the

manufacturing and sourcing exhibition during 4-6 November. Over three days, approximately 750 buyers from international locations including France, Italy, Spain, Germany and the UK frequented the stands, which were organised in five sections: fast fashion, denim, Moroccan brands, knitwear and technical use fabrics/work clothes. For 2015, the fair returned to Marrakech after a three-year stint at the conference and exhibition centre L’Office des Changes in the city centre of Casablanca. Here all exhibitors showcased their products in one hall. However, upon moving location to the International WTCC circuit Moulay Hassan in Marrakech, the layout was changed to incorporate two levels.

Ninety-five exhibitors were grouped into rooms defined by section, allowing easier navigation and better flow of the show. Geographically, Casablanca – the location of a large majority of the textile manufacturing business in Morocco – is more logical a host city than Marrakech. Many of the exhibitors, too, are based in Casablanca. However, the decision to move the show to Marrakech was more about the lure of the city itself and is a decision that was made to appease the wishes of the buyers and visitors to the show, who had requested a more central and easier to reach destination. Exhibitor Said Barnici, manager of denim production company Vindi II, reinforced the decision to move the show. “The clients expressed

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an interest in having it in Marrakech. It’s a beautiful, vibrant city and it’s better for leisure time if people want to have the weekend here. It’s also more workable in terms of flights,” he says. “It’s further away to visit the main manufacturing spots Fez, Casablanca and Tangier, but it’s more of an international location.” With the show located on the premises of a famous racetrack circuit, the sound of distant racing cars serves as a reminder of the fiveyear Industrial Acceleration Project 2015-2020, organised by the Moroccan Association of the Textile and Apparel Industries (AMITH) and the National Agency for Export Promotion (Maroc Export). The project outlines an aim to help Moroccan suppliers become vertically integrated companies. Through offering a full package manufacturing deal, suppliers can provide clients with a service that runs from initial design to fabric finishes. This is now expected from most European clients and will provide a significant advantage over competitors. Though the five-year plan is at the beginning stages of action, Moroccan textile manufacturing already shows signs of increased trade with the UK market. Even though the proportion of UK buyers at the show was significantly less than countries such as France, Spain and Italy, UK representation came from big name brands such as Superdry, Boohoo, Dorothy Perkins, Monsoon and Topshop. This is a positive sign for the market, considering large UK retailers such as Marks & Spencer and Next closed their factories and ceased production here in 2011. An increased interest in Asian countries, mainly China and Bangladesh, and the poor British pound to

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Moroccan dirham currency value at the time deterred much of the UK textile manufacturing business. However, interest in Moroccan textile manufacturing is growing as it becomes an attractive alternative to countries such as Turkey and Tunisia, which have been experiencing political and economic pressure. “Recent geopolitical developments in these countries affect where clients are choosing to do business. Stability is definitely a draw here,” says Mohammed Tazi, managing director of Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing organisers AMITH. “At the time there was a UK turnover collapse; now we’ve noticed a growth due to many reasons, including currency value improvements. Companies and businesses are returning to Morocco once more.” Manufacturing developments within the UK market are starting to take effect. Recently, Marks & Spencer decided to re-open factories in Morocco. Tesco, too, has decided to move manufacture of its F&F clothing range here. A multitude of fabrics from lace to knitwear were well represented at the show, proving the diversity and strength of manufacture in the country. The denim section in particular was the driving force behind the show and attracted vast interest, especially from fast fashion brands. Denim was not only the most popular sector of the tradeshow, but manufacture of the fabric is generally strong in the country. With denim among the bestselling product categories in UK retail, many domestic manufacturers and suppliers see it as a route into British fast fashion. Meryem Rachdi, general manager of the Moroccan Denim Cluster, an organisation representing Moroccan denim manufacturing companies, says: “2016 will see a big push into

the UK market. There are so many opportunities for trade with the fast fashion sector in the UK. Our production of denim has opened a door and we’re hoping this will translate into an increase in UK clients soon.” The free trade agreement between Europe and Morocco certainly makes business with the country a viable option. And the move towards increased eco action puts Moroccan production more in line with what a UK client wants. Low impact dyes and controlled water temperatures are used and many projects are underway to take this further. “Currently we are working with Hassan II University of Casablanca, which is a textile school here,” says Rachdi. “We are using researchers to reduce pollution and reduce water usage. It’s a big problem in Casablanca as it’s the biggest industrial city in Morocco.” Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing exhibitor and textile producer Crossing estimates that 30 per cent of its business is currently dedicated to UK clients. Supplying UK customers such as Topshop, Next and Superdry, the company was based within the denim section of the fair. “We are pleased with how things have gone here,” says Hind Raki, merchandiser for Crossing. “We’ve been visited by our existing clients, as well as potential new ones, and have follow-up meetings with a few UK buyers. Our main aim was to make connections and strengthen existing ones and I think the show is a good way to do that.” At the end of the show, the overall mood was optimistic. With signs of UK textile business returning to Moroccan soil, many of the suppliers here are positive that business from the UK – widely regarded by the Moroccan textile industry as one of the most prestigious and sought-after client countries – is on the up.

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INTERVIEW

BEN ANDREW In his relatively new role as senior buyer on menswear, Ben Andrew plans to bring some freshness to Liberty’s offer to complement its impressive roster of casual and designer brands, as Tom Bottomley discovers. — Tom Bottomley: You’ve recently been promoted to senior buyer; how long have you been at Liberty now? Ben Andrew: It’s four years since I joined as a junior buyer. The internal changes started to take place back in August of this year when Scott Tepper joined the company as fashion buying and merchandising director. He was previously with Kurt Geiger. I got a promotion soon after, so I’m now getting in my stride. — TB: Are you changing your buying strategy in any way? BA: I wouldn’t say we’re changing it as such, as we have a pretty set business. The brands that we do really well with, our biggest brands, are the likes of Dries Van Noten, A.P.C. and Acne Studios. We will continue to grow with those, while bringing in new stuff to complement them. If possible, we’d like some more exclusive offers, something a little bit different to bring in to the mix. Our customers seem to be asking us for it. Something they can’t find elsewhere, that’s a bit more under the radar. — TB: So you’re not trying to find more of the same kind of thing that already works? BA: What we may have been guilty of previously is bringing in ‘like brands’. We already have a great offer of those core, clean brands such as Oliver Spencer and YMC. Easy, commercial brands if you like. We may have been guilty of trying to bring in more of those type of brands and looks. The likes of Norse Projects, Our Legacy, Folk and AMI also do very well for us. They are our kind of core brands. So we want to look to grow more

SENIOR BUYER MEN’S FASHION, LIBERTY, LONDON

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with the ones we already have, and to bring in more things to complement them as opposed to offering more of the same kind of thing. Because the commercial stuff does drive the business, we can perhaps push the boundaries a bit more with the more ‘fashion’ elements. It’s not a lot of money in the general scheme of things, you just need to make sure the 20 per cent or 25 per cent that is more ‘fashion’ driven is interesting and engaging for the customer. You need it to look exciting and enticing, but you’ve got to get the balance right. If it was only a rail of navy shirts or navy coats then no one would go near it. — TB: Is there anything in particular you’re bringing in? BA: Next season we have Beams Plus coming in from Japan. We’ve also got an exclusive Italian shirt brand called DNL. I bought it when I was in Milan. They do a good range, anything from a plain Oxford to Broderie Anglaise, to ethnic prints. It feels quite relevant and different, and the price points are really keen for us, ranging from £100 to £140 retail. We’ve also brought in Tomorrowland from Japan for the first time this season, and it’s had a really good start. There’s some great knits and, relatively speaking, they are really commercial prices for a Japanese brand. The shirts start at around £130. — TB: What price bracket do the majority of your sales fall in? BA: It’s very different in each room. In the casual room which has A.P.C. and so on, the average sales price across the floor is around the £200 mark, whereas in the designer room it’s more like £400-£450. A wool coat in the casual room will probably be about £350-£450; a shirt or piece of knitwear is about £100-£160. Then in the designer room it leaps up, with coats starting at £550-£600, going right up to anything like £1,200, depending on the designer. Designers include the likes of Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Alexander McQueen, Helmut Lang, Maison Margiela, and Dries Van Noten is our really big one. Our customers really get it. We also started with Lanvin last s/s and it was good, but a/w 15 has been really strong. —

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TB: Is anything in the casual room particularly standing out? BA: I think Oliver Spencer has been elevated somewhat since he’s been doing London Collections: Men. It’s now got a nice mix of fashion and commerciality which appeals to our customers. — TB: Is more of a ‘fashion’ offer perhaps Liberty’s USP? BA: We have an educated customer who appreciates that, but we also do really well with commercial products. People do come in here looking for something different, and perhaps a more concise edit than you may find in other places. To a point it’s more of a fashion edit, but maybe not quite as ‘fashion’ as some people might think we are. It’s got to be wearable menswear. If you look at the bestselling piece from the likes of Oliver Spencer for example, it’s still going to be a navy wool coat in the winter season, and it’s the same from A.P.C. It’s still the core essentials that drive the business. In terms of more directional stuff, we have the likes of McQ by Alexander McQueen, which is a bit punk inspired. They do great leathers, but again we do very well with the polo shirts and shirts. — TB: Are there any key trends you see emerging, or indeed re-emerging? BA: The whole ‘vintage’ thing is starting to feel more relevant again after all the clean looks we’ve seen in recent seasons. Everyone seems to have gone down that more sportswear orientated route, so there’s no one else really doing the vintage angle. It’s becoming a focus for us again. I think it’s easier in the summer season, because you can do more fun printed shirts and tees, and distressed denim. There’s definitely more washed and distressed denim coming through, that kind of LA look with denim becoming increasingly important again. Beams Plus, which I mentioned previously that we’re bringing in for the first time for s/s 16, has a very vintage American feel to it, as does Engineered Garments and Gitman Bros to

a point, and certainly Ralph Lauren’s RRL line, which, aside from their own retail, I believe we have exclusively in London. — TB: Isn’t RRL much more of a specific targeted customer though? BA: Yes it’s a very specific customer, looking for those real quality reproduction pieces that have all the attention to detail you’d expect. They have brought the prices down a bit, which has widened the appeal slightly. You couldn’t previously buy a pair of RRL jeans for under £300, but now the entry price is £200. It’s still expensive but, in relation to where it was, the difference is considerable. You couldn’t get a shirt before for under £170, but now you can get one for about £130. However, what is special about the brand are those really special pieces, which are still generally expensive. They are what drives the brand. People come in looking for the most amazing vintage replicas you can find on the market, and RRL delivers on that front. — TB: What happened to the tailoring room? BA: That’s actually all accessories now, and is our biggest room in terms of money taken. We don’t do much suiting now. We took the decision to make it a total accessories destination and it’s really paying off. Our successful accessories sales obviously prompted the move. We have an amazing business with the likes of Johnstons of Elgin scarves, Dents gloves, Sandqvist bags and Paul Smith accessories in general. Bags are now our biggest category all year round. We’ve also started in more recent times with watches, and that is performing really well with the likes of Larsson & Jennings, which start at £195 going up to £350, and Junghans is also very good for us. They start at £475, going up to £2,200. Because no one else in London was really showcasing accessories like this, and we had the space available, we thought we’d go for it given how well accessories were performing for us across the board. And we’ve now just given the area a big refresh in time for the run-up to Christmas.

“You need it to look exciting and enticing, but you’ve got to get the balance right. If it was only a rail of navy shirts or navy coats then no one would go near it.”

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P R O D U C T

COMFORT LEVELS When Munich-based entrepreneur Sebastian Kaiser founded his menswear label, Boulezar, in 2011, his goal was to “reset the standards of luxury fashion”. In short, Kaiser’s idea was to create an exclusive range of casualwear and lifestyle products, not defined by branding, expensive marketing or flashy design. Coined “comfy couture”, each piece is created to the highest quality, with a clear focus on comfort. Premium fabrics are sourced from Italy and Japan, then transformed by traditional artisan tailors in Kaiser’s native Germany. A key product within the Boulezar collection is the cashmere jogger, created at a time when designer Karl Lagerfeld said, “Those who wear joggers have lost control over their lives.” Three years later, Lagerfeld created jogging bottoms for Chanel. —

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RADAR Spotlighting style SAIL AWAY Quba Sails originates from the seaside town of Salcombe, Devon, where the brand started out producing unique jackets from reclaimed canvas sailcloth. Working with only one local seamstress, the popularity of the unique designs spread by word of mouth and soon the brand was being sought after by sea-travelling locals from yachtsmen to holidaymakers. Today, the brand sells to customers around the world. Now employing eight craftspeople, including the original seamstress, at the specialist manufacturing unit in Devon, the team creates a range of sailcloth products, which are handmade to order, including jackets, holdalls, deckchairs and cushions. As well as the original Devon-made sailcloth products, Quba Sails produces a wide range of nautically inspired clothing and accessories for men and women. —

DRAKE & HUTCH ESTABLISHED: 2013 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Classic British tailoring combined with modern fabrics and production methods. The result is a line of crafted garments, aimed at the everyday man. — HISTORY: With an interest in the historical aspects of clothing, founder Pete McGuiness noticed a gap in the market for a brand that created everyday essentials with the same design focus found in bespoke tailoring. Underwear brand Drake & Hutch was established in 2013 by Pete McGuiness. Inspired by his role at the time, working in product design and development, McGuiness was drawn to the finer details and historical elements of menswear style. After working for a Jermyn Street tailor, McGuiness took the bespoke aspects of typical Saville Row design and fused them with modern fabrics and production methods. Primarily, the brand’s target audience extends to design-conscious, affluent professionals, who have a preference for timeless style. Catering to its target audience, the brand’s upcoming pima cotton line will showcase more tailoring-inspired designs. Garments feature a hand-printed lining, which draws inspiration from suit jackets, while the rest of the piece is kept simple and classic. Further underwear designs will follow on from this line, and the brand has also revealed plans to release an initially small offering of quality loungewear catering for city living. Currently, the line is stocked in UK boutique underwear stores, though the brand plans to export on a global scale. Wholesale prices are available upon request. www.drakeandhutch.com —

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PRODUCT NEWS THE SMELL OF SUCCESS From the ingredients to the labelling and packaging, every part of the manufacturing process of fine-fragrance brand Gruhme is British. Gruhme No.14 has proven a popular scent among customers, something the brand puts down to its good price point, excellent scent and a masculine yet sophisticated design. Uplifting citrus notes combine with a woody base to create a versatile scent. Gruhme No.14 is named for its 14 per cent concentration, ensuring a pronounced sillage and a concentrated aroma which contains no allergens. —

EXTRA BAGGAGE Last month, bag brand Gillis London introduced its range to the UK. The high quality line of small luggage, general bags and technology related products have been developed using a unique type of waxed canvas. Products in the range include the Wellington travel collection, the waxed canvas Marlborough collection and the Trafalgar leather and waxed canvas multifunctional camera bag collection. Using different types of leathers, metal fittings, linings and padding, all bags are created to give an individual look. The ethically conscious brand manufactures all products at a BSCI (Business Social Compliance Initiative) certified factory. —

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STYLE HIGHLIGHT

ALL IN GOOD TIME Inspired by the functionality of classic pilot watches, Filson has collaborated with its sister brand Shinola to release the Scout Watch collection. Built to withstand the demands and stresses of travelling, the dual-time function allows the wearer to view different time displays, which are embedded in matt black PVD plating. Other defining features include a brushed stainless steel 45.5mm case, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal face, which also has an anti-reflective coating for glare reduction. Retail prices range from £560 to £775. —

SIMON CARTER Eponymous label Simon Carter presents a comprehensive accessory collection for the s/s 16 season. Designed to complement his clothing offer, buyers can expect to find highlights such as the onyx bead with gunmetal skull bracelet and black leather gunmetal anchor bracelet set (pictured), which wholesales at £24. Other key additions include the Maurice white mother-of-pearl cufflink, £24, and antique blue, lemon-shaped cufflink, £27. —

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RADAR Spotlighting style

CLEAN-CUT APPROACH

LAD ESTABLISHED: 2014 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Simple, functional and hardwearing ties. Design stems from utility, with an emphasis on using locally sourced materials and Yorkshire’s industrial heritage. — HISTORY: The brand initially started out as a small project as a homage to mill workers in Yorkshire, once the international centre of the wool industry. Lad was born from an appreciation of Yorkshire’s young mill employees. A nod to the skill and ethics of these workers, Lad is a tribute to craftsmanship and honest Yorkshire values. The brand’s range of ties is made in the oldest and only remaining “fully-vertical” woollen mill in England. The entire manufacturing process takes place on one site, from raw fleece to finished cloth. Products are washed, dyed, blended, carded, spun and woven at the Victorian mill, which has been in operation since 1837. For a/w 15, the brand launched its range of slim woollen neck ties, available in six colours. Following on from its own line, Lad recently collaborated with Holland Esquire to release a limited-edition range of ties. And with the increased popularity of northern production, the brand plans to collaborate further with local industries such as Sheffield steel and Lancashire cotton. Currently, Lad is stocked by a handful of UK stores including Roullier White, London, and British Design British Made, East Sussex. Elsewhere, the brand has presence in Norway, stocked in Splendid & Fellows, Oslo, and online at madeintheseisles.co.uk. Wholesale prices average at £15 per tie. www.lad-north.co.uk —

Scandinavian label Libertine-Libertine stays true to its clean minimalistic approach to design this coming summer season, entwining loose sportswear references with relaxed tailoring. The s/s 16 collection sees the brand showcase an eclectic colour palette of vibrant hues, prints and textures while drawing inspiration from 70s Californian and Japanese workwear staples. 50s-inspired open bowler shirts are paired with high collar, half-zip tees and full-zip shirts, bringing a contemporary yet nostalgic look and utilitarian feel to the range. Meanwhile, the brand’s classic outerwear staples, such as the Hunter shirt, bring a familiar and more relaxed vibe. —

IN BRIEF THIN BLUE LINE Blue Collar Worker continues to evolve its denim offer for the new season, with the launch of its Blue Line collection. Taking the key character styling and trim details from its established workwear line, the new standalone denim offer features 16 various fits and finishes. The existing Blue Collar Worker collection will carry over into the new season with a capsule offer of proofed cotton coats, denim over-shirts, checked work shirts and indigo jersey pieces.

INDX Menswear AW16 3 - 4 February 2016

A bespoke trade show exclusively for indie retailers 6th Sense • Beau Monde • Bench • Ben Green • Boardmans • Bown • British Boxers • Bruhl • Champion • Colours & Sons • Craghoppers • Dario Beltran • Davis & Oliver • Digel • Double Two • Failsworth • Farah Classic • Fulton • Fynch Hatton • GB & RS Ltd. • Gianni Conti • Guardian/Highcross • Gurteen • Hattric • HJ Hall • Hortons • Hunt & Holditch • Hymn • ITEM m6 • Jack Wolfskin • Jockey • JT Ascott • Just Sheepskin • Lizard King • Mag Mouch and Sophos • Meyer • Michael George • Morley • Old Guys Rule • Original Penguin* • Osan (Pringle/Jeff Banks/Glenmuir) • Peter England • Peter Gribby • Peter Werth • Redpoint • Rocola • River Creek • Seidensticker • Skopes • SL Supplies • Souled Out • Stones • The British Bag Company • The Label • Tom Hagan • Tootal • Totes • Trespass • Viyella • Weird Fish • Wilson & Sloane • Wolsey* • Wrangler plus many more

* Socks/Underwear

INDX is curated by experts in the field and presents a focused exhibitor line up in an informal and professional buying environment. •Free

entry •Free refreshments

Free lunch • Free on site parking •

Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull, B90 4LF T: 0121 683 1417

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DECEMBER 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 30

MAGEE £55.50 028 2564 6211

CAMEL ACTIVE £62.75 0207 736 0230

CRAGHOPPERS £58.10 0161 866 0500

PARKA LONDON £55 0207 424 6889

SCOTCH & SODA PRICE ON REQUEST 0203 137 3901

WAVEN £22 0207 739 7620

SAMSOE & SAMSOE £50 0203 137 3901

RAINING MEN The most unpredictable season to dress for, spring presents the need for lightweight outerwear, ideal for layering or worn over a tee in warmer spells. Key styles include the tech jacket, with innovative fabric coatings, the quilted hooded bomber and the minimal cotton, unstructured workwear jacket. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

GUESS £40.50 0207 608 9100

REALM & EMPIRE £48 01858 466729

ANTONY MORATO £179.90 0207 403 4141

www.ohwshoes.com info@ohwshoes.com

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DECEMBER 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 32

JOCKEY £7.83 07977 934329

BOBBY ABLEY £15 SALES@STUDIOABLEY.CO.UK

LUKE 1977 £20 01869 366580 BJORN BORG £14 0207 637 1395

BRIEF ENCOUNTER A hybrid between briefs and the boxer brief, trunks are now one of the most popular underwear options among male shoppers. And while colours remain classically neutral – blue, black and grey, with the odd print thrown in – labels such as Waxx and Animal have continued the trend of logo branding on the waistband. —

WAXX £7.50 0114 249 3037 ALPINESTARS PRICE ON REQUEST 0039 0423 5286 SCOTCH & SODA £11.50 0203 137 3901

ANIMAL £9.17 08450 267267

DUCK AND COVER £8 0844 693 0401

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

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DECEMBER 2015 | PITTI UOMO | 34

PITTI UOMO PREVIEW Pitti Uomo edition 89 takes place at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence on 12-15 January 2016, and the show promises, as usual, to be a showcase of some of the finest menswear, footwear and accessories in the world. Here’s a selection of some favourite brands heading back to kick off the season. —

BARACUTA For a/w 16, Baracuta is taking its inspiration from within its own rich heritage, from the city of Manchester where the brand first originated. That can only mean one thing; the celebration of rain. So, from a rain-tested G9 Harrington, to Baracuta trench coats, the unique archive Barapel fabric with three-layer technology has been revisited. The brand is also reinterpreting its famous Fraser tartan, which lines the famous G9, with new ways of lining outerwear with blown-up Frasers, Argyles and Fair Isle Tricot – adding in Thermore Booster technology for added comfort and warmth. The duffle coat is also set to be re-interpreted in a contemporary way with new fabrics inspired by the classic. Also fresh will be the G4 Blazer – a new design inspired by the iconic G4 jacket. The new shape is apparently destined to become a key garment for Baracuta. Then there’s a new belted Field Jacket – refining the brand’s expertise in outerwear and described as a real hero piece, rubber coated and not afraid of the rain. Baracuta opened its flagship London shop on Newburgh Street mid-August to further raise the brand’s profile and present its full collection as it should be. —

SANDERS The Northampton Goodyear-welted footwear specialist since 1873, and maker of the famous chukka boots as worn by super cool Steven McQueen in Bullitt in 1968, is returning to the Firenze fair with yet more to please. It will adding to its Instock Diplomat Collection, with a new classic Chelsea boot and a plain front double buckle monk shoe – both available in black – and Ebony French calf for the more discerning customer. The Iconic Sanders Snuff Suede Hi Top Chukka boot will have a younger brother with the Lo Top Gibson being made available for the first time in snuff suede. Sales manager Simon Tennant says, “From our archive we will also be showing our Military Collection, detailing classic styling with a subtle twist for a/w 16. By offering all the collection on single rubber studded soles, we have allowed the footwear to have the look of a leather sole but with flexibility and durability for the winter season.” That will be offered in the classic cap-toe Gibson, through to a nine eyelet/ski-hook lace boot.” —

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DECEMBER 2015 | PITTI UOMO | 35

GH BASS A/w 16 continues the exploration of the large and vast GH Bass archives. Maintaining the key values and properties of original GH Bass designs, the new collection sees the rejuvenation of classic styles playing with textures, silhouettes and finishes on classics such as the Weejun and the Camp range. In new reptile skins, including alligator and lizard, as well as high-shine and patent leathers, recognisable styles receive an updated upper. Branding techniques of GH Bass past are reintroduced, including nylon tags and branded metal plates. In addition, the a/w 16 Monogram collection sees GH Bass reintroduce the much-esteemed premium collection of boots and loafers crafted from the highest quality leathers and welts. In calf leather and high-density fibre suede, the Monogram collection features Goodyear-welted boots, loafers and derby shoes in the classic styles as created in 1939. — p

ADIDAS ORIGINALS BY WHITE MOUNTAINEERING Heading up the Designer Project at this edition of Pitti will be adidas Originals by White Mountaineering. The a/w 16 collaborative collection will be highlighted via a unique event to present the range that sees adidas Originals’ design DNA reinterpreted through the eyes of Yosuke Aizawa, the force behind the Japanese menswear brand, White Mountaineering. The event marks the return to Florence for Aizawa, who made his European debut with his brand at Pitti. This time, together with adidas Originals, the collection will take a highly innovative approach that combines tradition and technical materials, design and functionality. It should be a bit of a treat to see. —

TIMOTHY EVEREST

SHINOLA

Mr Everest will be launching a Tailored Sportswear line at Pitti, with more technical, performance-based, outerwear-focused pieces, Japanese fabrications and taped seams. Also, a collaboration with Japanese denim and workwear aficionado Full Count will be sure to draw buyers’ interest, especially with the special tapered version of the 0105 model, Zimbabwe cotton, selvedge, one-wash jean. Back in London, and a new Timothy Everest shop just opened in the East End at 37 Redchurch Street in November, housing the new Tailored Casual line, along with some store exclusives. —

Shinola, known for its Detroit-built watches, bicycles, journals, leather goods and shoe polish, is opening its new London store at 28 Fouberts Place in Soho in December 2015. The move to a larger, near 750 sq ft store comes after just over a year of operation on Newburgh Street. The new space will also be used to accommodate in-store events, talks and demonstrations. The brand will be showing in the Born in the USA by Liberty Fairs building at Pitti. On display will be a selection of new watches, accessories and leather goods. This includes the s/s 16 leather collection created by co-leather design directors Richard Lambertson and John Truex, who joined the team in 2014. The collection was developed in Shinola’s leather design studio and is made exclusively from leathers which have all been sourced, tanned and sewn in the U.S. Also on show will be key a/w 16 products of which details, as yet, are being kept under wraps until the event. —

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DECEMBER 2015 | PROMOTION | 36

PITTI UOMO 12-15 JANUARY 2016, FORTEZZA DA BASSO, FLORENCE

Kicking off the international buying calendar, Pitti Uomo 89 brings together an abundance of international and domestic brands, as well as special events and guest designers for its a/w 16 edition. — Known for its trend setting, forward thinking and innovation, the 89th edition of Pitti Uomo is set to welcome over 1250 brands across premium apparel, footwear, accessories and lifestyle products to the grounds of the Fortezza da Basso, Florence. Spanning 60,000 sq m, the fair will be split into 15 sections, including Born in the USA, I Play and My Factory, with 225 new names to add to its already impressive roster of international and domestic brands. Continuing its tradition of basing each edition around a specific theme, the forthcoming winter show is dedicated to different generations in today’s fashion market, where age is more a state of mind than a date on a birth certificate. Titled Pitti Generation(s), the show will host a series of installations, art and live performances, with set design by Oliviero Baldini. It will welcome the expansion of contemporary crafts section MAKE, expanding across the lower level of the Main Pavilion with over 40 brands including Tibi Tie, Anonymous Paris and Chapal. Meanwhile, the 89th edition will host Juun.J as its Menswear Guest Designer – the first time Pitti Uomo has invited a Guest Designer from South Korea. Juun.J will present his men’s collection at an event that will feature creative aspects of his 3D fashions, taking place on Wednesday 13 January at the Stazione Leopolda. Visitors and buyers will be able to view the latest designs from adidas Originals by White Mountaineering. The a/w 16 collaborative collection sees adidas Original’s DNA reinterpreted through the eyes of Yosuke Aizawa, the force behind the Japanese menswear brand White Mountaineering. The event marks the return to Florence for Aizawa, with a collection that combines tradition, technical materials, design and functionality. “Adidas has an incredibly rich history as a brand, and with so many products and stories over the years, working on the inside you often get to see things in one certain way,” says Nic Galway, vice president of global design for adidas Originals. “It’s exciting to see how a creative like Mr Aizawa interprets adidas and our collaboration with White Mountaineering is real testament to what can happen when you work together.” Pitti Uomo is renowned for its commitment to promote and support new generations of fashion talent within Italy, and this season is no different. Pitti Italics – a program which is sponsored by the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana – will support knitwear designer, and winner of the Who Is On Next? Uomo competition, Vittorio Branchizio. Branchizio will present his menswear collection on stage at the Doganan of Via Valfonda, again on Wednesday 13 January 2016. The initiative will also support designer Federico Curradi, who will launch his first menswear collection, having honed his craft working at the likes of Ermanno Scervino and Iceberg. “I am honoured to be able to launch my own label at Pitti Uomo,” says Curradi. “Pitti Immagine has given me the opportunity to freely express myself without having to worry about market rules. Pollution and nature, craft and industry, corruption and morality; my

NIC GALWAY & YOSUKE AIZAWA

VITTORIO BRANCHIZIO

JUUN.J

AGI & SAM

first collection is derived from these themes. And I am proud to be able to do this at an international event taking place in my city, Florence, where I grew up.” Other key events to be held throughout the four-day exhibition include the finals of the International Woolmark Prize, held in Florence following its debut at London Collections: Men last season. The six finalists, which include Agi & Sam, Munsoo Kwon from South Korea and Jonathan Christopher from the Netherlands, will present Merino wool collections in the historic Villa Favard, the headquarters of Florence’s renowned Polimoda – International Institute of Fashion Design and Business. The overall winner of the menswear category will receive A$100,000 and will have their collection stocked in some of the world’s leading stores such as Harvey Nichols, Saks Fifth Avenue in the US and David Jones in Australia. Visitors can reach Florence airport with regular flights from London. However, for most UK visitors, the easiest option is a flight to Pisa, followed by a short coach journey directly to Florence. Alternatively, there are regular flights from London to Bologna, an hour’s drive from Florence. www.pittimmagine.com

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DECEMBER 2015 | PREVIEW | 38

A PREMIUM OFFER With the recent acquisition of streetwear trade exhibition Bright, the Premium Group has firmly established itself as one of the key players in the international buying calendar. Victoria Jackson discovers what the new season holds for Bright, as well as for its sister shows, SEEK and Premium. —

SEEK

Over the past two seasons, the Berlin tradeshow landscape has been adjusting and realigning itself following the closure of Bread & Butter Berlin. Many thought the demise of the vast German show would alter the city’s show calendar. And so it did, with the Premium Group becoming stronger than before, expanding its contemporary menswear show SEEK into new premises and acquiring the streetwear trade fair Bright. Offering a diverse range of fashion, Premium Group runs three of the most recognised international tradeshows, representing over 1,600 brands – 81 per cent of those from outside Germany – and spanning a total of 44,000 sq m. SEEK, the contemporary show with exhibitors including the likes of YMC, Dickies, Edwin and Soulland, continues to grow within its newest location, Arena – Berlin’s hub for streetwear and urbanwear during Berlin Fashion Week. For the a/w 16 edition, the fair will showcase ranges from over 300 brands across Modern Menswear, Upper Streetwear, Elevated Sportswear, New Classics and Authentic Designer Collections. The portfolio, around 90 per cent of which is made up of menswear brands, will be complemented by a carefully curated selection of womenswear labels, as well as lifestyle products and tech gadgets. New labels to the SEEK portfolio include Brooks, Lavenham, Birkenstock, The LAB, Dr. Denim, Fairplay LA, Musée Noir and NXXUS. The new addition of streetwear and boardsports show Bright – which the Premium Group acquired earlier this year – now means

PREMIUM

visitors will have access to over 600 brands in total including Vans, Carhartt, Lewis, Cons, DC, Obey, Element, The Hundreds, Hype, Starter, Mitchell & Ness, Champion, Slydes, Etnies, Nixon and Mi-Pac. The shows will run at the same time in the same location, expanding in the future, with both concepts remaining independent and keeping their individual focus. “With the influential Premium on the one hand and Bright and SEEK on the other, we are strengthening Berlin’s reputation as a fashion hub while taking the lead with a powerful, progressive menswear selection,” says Jorg Arntz, joint managing director of Premium Group. Thomas Martini, creative director of Bright, adds, “The partnership gives a great overview of the latest in menswear, sportswear, streetwear and boardsport. One ticket and one location helps the visitors to have a very efficient time during Berlin fashion week. For most of the visitors it’s the best opportunity to meet all their relevant brands at once.” Across the capital at Station Berlin, meanwhile, Premium is set to bring together an impressive roster of more than 1,000 menswear, womenswear, sportwear, denim, footwear and accessory labels, all displayed across 33,000 sq m. New for the a/w 16 season is the launch of the newly designed #FashionTech conference, which will take place on 20 January 2016, with the aim of informing industry players about the latest developments in the field of fashion and technology. The previous event welcomed names

from Microsoft, Google, Facebook, Instagram and Amazon Fashion, as well as offering a networking platform for buyers and brands. “Innovation is key; stagnation costs a business a lot more money than investing in innovation and the future,” says Anita Tillman, founder and managing partner, Premium Group. “Fashion and technology is an extremely exciting new field and is set to shape the future of the fashion industry. I take great pleasure in being part of this development and being able to play a key role in shaping its course.” The winter edition of Premium will also see the unveiling of its Brand Match Tool, which matches buyers with relevant brands. During registration, visitors are asked to enter key information e.g. store categories, price ranges, styles and desired brands, which is then used to create an individual user profile. Visitors can access their profile site using the Premium app and, with help from GPS-based navigation, can follow their pre-planned route through the trade fair halls. As well as accessing both Premium, SEEK and Bright, visitors can also enter Show & Order, The Green Showroom and the Ethical Fashion Show, all linked via the Premium Group’s shuttle system. — Premium, SEEK and Bright will take place from 19-21 January 2016. For more information visit www.premiumexhibitions.com or www.brighttradeshow.com

R E - D I S C O V E R 3 5

Y E A R S

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H E R I T A G E T H E

M A K I N G

For trade enquiries and for the new AW16 Brochure, call 0844 811 2322 www.regatta.com

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DECEMBER 2015 | PANORAMA | 40

PANORAMIC VIEW OF FASHION With further expansion and brand new segments, Panorama continues to solidify itself as a must-visit international show for mainstream fashion. —

CG - CLUB OF GENTS

BENVENUTO PURPLE LABEL

DIGEL

Since its launch in 2013, Panorama has grown both in size and reputation. Bringing together a raft of names across menswear, womenswear, accessories, footwear and lifestyle products, the latest edition – held on 19-21 January 2016 – will be its biggest and most comprehensive to date, with new signings such as The Kooples, Henri Lloyd, Denham and CG – Club of Gents. With further expansion through its central location of ExpoCenter City, Messe Berlin, new segments and the continuation of its digital innovation, Panorama is looking to attract a growing number of both domestic and international buyers. The new season will welcome the addition of two new halls, spanning 10,000 sq m of exhibition space. Hall 9 will house the brand new area, Nova Concept, a platform for innovative fashion and carefully curated lifestyle products. Following the lead from stores such as Dover Street Market, Colette and Fivestory, the area will highlight trendsetting collections, as well as fragrances, home accessories, coffee-table books and technical gadgets. The space, which is set in a building dating

back the 1920s, with high ceilings and raw concrete floors, will also include a sneaker lounge and a bloggers’ base. Buyers can expect to find brands such as Globetrotter Suitcases, GX by Gwen Stefani, Matt & Nat, Jeffery Campbell and Ten Points. “The focus for Nova Concept is on creative merchandising and flexible product presentations that aim to stimulate and encourage people to follow suit,” says Joerg Wichmann, CEO Panorama Berlin. “For that reason, we are working with renowned interior designers and architects. With Nova Concept, we show how it is possible to use familiar spaces in completely new ways. Here, things are heart-driven and not so head-driven. Here, instinct counts,” he adds. A second new space, Hall 8, will house a dedicated shoe and accessory offer, including names such as Fly London, Bulaggi, Natural World and Bullboxer. “With our shoe and accessory hall, we wanted to address the fact that this segment is becoming increasingly important commercially,” says Wichmann. “It’s a useful addition to our portfolio. Fashion has a lot to do with styling – to create new looks on an ongoing basis, you

need shoes and accessories, you can never have enough of them. After all, what woman would say she had enough shoes and handbags?” Casual Classic in Hall 2, meanwhile, will play host to some of the biggest names in mainstream menswear, including Digel, Benvenuto, Olymp, Mac, Alberto and Bugatti, while the likes of Camel Active, Mustang and Timezone will showcase their collections in Urban Lab, found in Hall 3. Due to the strong demand for fast fashion and in-season deliveries, NOW, in Hall 6, will have its own dedicated area, featuring brands such as Please, Imperial, Transfer, Berna and Eksept. Finally, Panorama will unveil its latest digital strategy, which will see the show remain open virtually for 180 days after the physical show closes its doors. The exhibition will be the first in the world to use centimetre-accurate, photorealistic 3D mapping of all nine halls combined with high-resolution 360 degree film. Besides the virtual tour, visitors will be able to see brand presentations, lookbooks, brand and contact information, allowing them the time to consider their buying options in a market where most are still understandably cautious.

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DECEMBER 2015 | LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN | 42

FASHION FORTE Moving to one central location in Victoria House, Bloomsbury, London Collections Men is set to inspire and excite the menswear industry this forthcoming season with its showcase of young British and international talent. —

PASSAVANT AND LEE Victoria Jackson: What can buyers expect from your a/w 16 offering? Jon Passavant: The next collection is all about the leather; we’ve taken the spirit of our previous collection and created a whole new offering that focuses on providing the best leather craftsmanship in the UK. VJ: What fuels your design inspiration? JP: For myself and Benj (Lee, co-founder), it really starts with our heritage and upbringing. We love mixing traditional style with adventurous and distinctive aesthetic. VJ: What made you want to be a designer? JP: Passavant and Lee was born out of our friendship and will always have that at its core. So while we come from different backgrounds, our friendship stoked the fire of wanting to start something and explore what’s possible. Then a few years ago we saw an opportunity in the market; we felt that, in the briefcase, we could create a fresh expression of something iconic. VJ: Would you consider launching other product lines, such as clothing, grooming, footwear? JP: Yes! We see Passavant and Lee is a lifestyle brand and, as such, we aim to provide products that are crafted with integrity, adding beauty and utility to our lives. In the coming seasons we will be developing several lines that amplify this lifestyle, including outerwear, footwear, further gentleman’s accessories and even furniture. VJ: Why do you think British menswear is so globally renowned? JP: As a brand, our roots are very much in British heritage design and craftsmanship. This is what drew us to LCM to show, and also what we believe makes British menswear so iconic. As its foundation, British design holds a wealth of history and culture; this underpinning gives it a strength and quality that we feel is unrivalled. VJ: Are there any other designers you are particularly looking forward to seeing at the show? JP: On our a/w 15 campaign we collaborated with E. Tautz – the perfect tailoring for the Passavant and Lee gentleman. It has been amazing watching their development since, both in design and recognition; so we’re definitely looking forward to catching up with them. We’re also excited for the new collection from Modern English, who were our neighbours at LCM last season; like our briefcases, their shoes are also handmade in England. —

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DECEMBER 2015 | LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN | 43

DOMINGO RODRIQUEZ Victoria Jackson: What can you tell us about your latest collection? Domingo Rodriquez: This season is all about leather for us, as s/s 16 was an exploration of the fine line between masculine and feminine in featherweight silks and georgettes and the contrast with our summerweight leathers. Autumn for us, however, is more robust, a tougher play in custom tanned leathers in matt and shine, glazed finishes. It’s about protection in textures through padding, removable sheepskin collars and a stronger shoulder. There’s a luxe sensuality we are toying with, in all leather-on-leather looks. VJ: What fuels your design inspiration? DR: The core of what I do is based in pattern cutting, using progressive techniques such as seam displacement and ergonomic fits for modern, easy and accessible shapes. I’m more about a mood than a literal reference – for winter it’s all about sensual tough. VJ: What drew you to the fashion industry? DR: It was a natural progression to become a designer, I was at art school specialising in graphic design and photography and it was the next expression for me. I’ve always been fascinated by the body, how it can inform and influence design. Then the intersection with fashion was the next exploration for me. VJ: Describe your signature style? DR: We are usually dark and accessible in a clean luxe and progressive way. Our signature piece has got to be our leather bomber jacket with self-rib cuffs and hem, juxtaposing the heavy leather with the softer layer of one of our modal jerseys or georgette layers and a luxe jogger in jersey. We are excited to show our new leather jogger for a/w 16. VJ: Are there any other designers you are particularly looking forward to seeing at the show? DR: I always love to see my fellow alumni Baartmans & Siegel’s new collections, they innovate in such a beautiful way every season. —

NORTHSKULL Victoria Jackson: When was Northskull established? Davron Christian: Northskull is a men’s jewellery and accessories brand founded in London by myself in 2009. Before the launch of the brand, men’s jewellery was limited to signet rings and cufflinks, but there was nothing on the market with a fashionable edge. With the changing trends in men’s fashion over the years, where men are seeking to accessorise their looks with bracelets and necklaces, we saw a gap in the market – an opportunity to design unique and innovative pieces for the modern man who appreciates a contemporary approach to traditional design. With a focus on craftsmanship and luxe detailing, utilising the finest materials, the construction of each piece reflects the design philosophy of Northskull: to create exciting new pieces that add an extra dimension to men’s jewellery and accessories from season to season. VJ: Where is the brand produced? DC: To create exceptional pieces, we source only the best semiprecious stones, leathers, exotic skins and luxury materials from the finest workshops, whether it is from Britain, Italy, or even the Far East. The brand is committed to crafting each creation to the highest quality, ensuring that each piece blends original designs with premium materials for a luxe aesthetic. VJ: Would you consider expanding into other product categories in the future? DC: As the men’s market is a growing segment of the fashion industry, we would like to introduce new categories to add a more comprehensive product offering for the modern man. In the future, introducing leather goods would be a natural progression for us, but it is not currently on the agenda. We are focusing on creating new collections that appeal to fashion-forward men, making Northskull the premier destination for men to find their next stylish piece to complement their outfit. VJ: Finally, where do you draw your inspiration from? DC: The design inspiration for each collection is different, but with a distinctive Northskull twist. For instance, the designs for the NS_01 collection for a/w 15 are inspired by the arrow emblem and signature skulls, but for the Construct/Disrupt Collection for s/s 16, the jewellery pieces are influenced by abstract art in Eastern Europe intermixed with a characteristic Northskull element. —

uuu

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| LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN | 44

EDDIE Victoria Jackson: Can you tell us how and when Eddie was established? Emily Noorollahi: It was in October 2013 in Dubai. Nima Saraf, my business partner and co-founder, had been making small accessories for himself as a hobby for some time, and demand grew from friends and family for the card holders, phone cases and other accessories. Nima and myself joined forces and designed a larger collection and showcased our very first unisex accessories collection at Fashion Forward Dubai. VJ: Where do you draw your design inspiration from? EN: Street style and everyday life. We base our designs on what’s practical today for the modern man and woman. But we like to create something practical that looks great, too, so we’re always looking at different art forms – anything really, like architecture, art, cars and fashion to create a contemporary twist to some classic concepts. VJ: Would you consider launching into other product lines? EN: Yes, definitely, we have quite a few things up our sleeves but we’re just waiting for the perfect moment to introduce them. We feel that currently the most important thing we want to show our customers is the craftsmanship and skill that goes into each of our pieces. We take time to perfect our designs as quality and craftsmanship are highly regarded for both of us – quality over quantity always. VJ: Describe the Eddie gent, what are his typical characteristics? EN: The Eddie gent is a man who appreciates design and style. His appearance and presence are important to him, he is a man who enjoys his bespoke suit as much as his perfect pair of denims. An adventurous, modern man. VJ: Are there any other designers you are particularly looking forward to seeing at the show? EN: Yes we’re excited to see Tom Ford’s collection this season. We’re also excited to see Paul Smith’s collection as we really liked his presentation for the suit to travel in – we can’t wait to see what he comes up with next. —

BOBBY ABLEY Victoria Jackson: You’re making your return to London Collections Men in January, what can buyers expect from the a/w 16 collection? Bobby Abley: This season I have lots of colour. The looks are quite literal and bold, but with commercial appeal, which is really important to me. VJ: What fuels your design inspiration? BA: Inspiration can come from anywhere. I don’t like to go out of my way to find it, I like to see something, do something or meet someone, absorb as much as possible and then just filter out what isn’t relevant to me. VJ: What made you want to be a designer? BA: I come from a place that kind of put a lid on my imagination, it wasn’t easy to be expressive or creative. I found so much comfort in stories and cartoons and all these magical alternative worlds – I related more to Disney characters than the people in my home town. I naturally became interested in clothes, and my search for an alternative existence collided with that, it felt easy and it made me happy and I saw it as a way out, something that could take me to a place where I could be comfortable. I guess it was a mixture of all those things really. VJ: Why do you think British fashion is so renowned globally? BA: I think British designers are not afraid of new things and at the same time they still have respect for the past. They’re forward thinkers. Those things combined make London Collections Men really strong, and fashion as a whole exciting. VJ: Are there any other designers you’d like to try and catch at the event? BA: I won’t get to see any of the actual shows, but I will always show support to the likes of Sibling, Xander Zhou and all the NEWGEN guys. —

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DECEMBER 2015 | LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN | 45

SOUTH LANE Victoria Jackson: What drew you to London Collections Men? Filip Bjernebo: No other fashion capital in the world has London’s mind-set – developing edgy but still commercially viable brands – and this aligns strongly with South Lane’s vision of bold minimalism. British menswear is so globally renowned for its innovations in design and the growing amount of up-and-coming British menswear brands that continue to push the boundaries of fashion. VJ: What can buyers expect from your latest collection? FB: The a/w 16 collection is rougher and more detailed than ever. It combines elements that have never been seen on watches before, such as hand-scratched dials and watch bands in unique combinations, featuring zippers and paint splashes. VJ: Where do you draw your inspiration for? FB: I get my design inspiration from architecture and buildings. I love how materials such as concrete and steel take shape and form patterns. Most of the watch dials feature edited photographs of these materials or take inspiration from them. VJ: What made you want to be a designer? FB: I have always been obsessed with creating things. Previously, I focused on graphic design. Going from creating designs for others, I decided to create for myself. Fashion has become a natural progression of my passion, allowing me to bring designs to life. VJ: Are there any other designers you are particularly looking forward to seeing at the show? FB: I cannot wait to see the new collection from Christopher Shannon, his edgy collections are always a great show. —

DAILY PAPER Victoria Jackson: Can you tell us about the faces behind Dutch label Daily Paper? Abderrahmane Trabsini: Established in 2012, Daily Paper is an Amsterdam-based menswear label. Inspired by my own African heritage and passion for contemporary fashion, the brand’s focus lies in the design of men’s fashion apparel that considers authenticity, with an emphasis on tailoring and an eclectic use of materials. I am responsible for the creation of patterns and prints, as well as studying at the Royal Academy of Art in The Hague. I co-founded Daily Paper with Hussien Suleiman, who now manages the production of the garments, the marketing, branding, strategy and daily operations. Finally, there’s Jefferson Osei, who manages the finances, sales and marketing, and is more widely known under his artist name Papa Ghana, a Dutch vocalist with Ghanaian roots. VJ: Where do you draw your inspiration from? AT: Our own African heritage and passion for contemporary fashion fuels the brand’s designs. VJ: Describe the Daily Paper guy, what are his typical characteristics? AT: A passion for individuality and personal style, with devotion to quality garments and an awareness of his cultural roots/heritage. VJ: Being a Dutch brand, what drew you to London Collections Men? Is the UK an important market for you? AT: Our passion for contemporary fashion drew us to London Collections Men. The UK market is a huge market with a massive variety of brands, but there is plenty of room for new and upcoming brands. Our products can be found at the likes of Chimp Store, Size?, Topman and Number Six. VJ: Will you try and catch any other shows during London Collections Men? AT: We’ll be interested to see what Nazir Mazhar, ADYN, Astrid Andersen and Natural Selection present for the new season. —

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PREVIEW | SHOW GUIDE | 46

EXHIBITION CALENDAR Your essential guide to the autumn/winter 16 buying calendar, from the new shows launching to the key international shows to highlight in your diary. Sponsored by:

LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN

PITTI UOMO

WEAR SELECT LONDON

SHOW & ORDER

SEEK

CAPSULE PARIS

9-10 January 2016 Old Billingsgate 1 Old Billingsgate Walk London EC3R 6DX 07551 477030 www.wearselectlondon.com —

18-20 January 2016 Kraftwerk Berlin-Mitte Köpenicker Str. 70 10179 Berlin 0049 30 5770 4181 www.showandorder.de —

19-21 January 2016 Eichenstraße 4 12435 Berlin 0049 30 2088 913400 www.seekexhibitions.com —

22-24 January 2016 Maison de la Mutualité 24 Rue Saint-Victor, 75005 Paris 001 212 206 9310 www.capsuleshow.com —

LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN

PANORAMA

BRIGHT

MAN PARIS

19-21 January 2016 ExpoCentre City, Berlin 0049 30 2088 91340 www.panorama-berlin.com —

19-21 January 2016 Eichenstraße 4 12435 Berlin 0049 69 6696 2157 www.brighttradeshow.com —

22-24 January 2016 25 Rue Yves Toudic Paris 10 0033 1 4367 2752 www.man-woman.co —

PREMIUM

WHO’S NEXT?

19-21 January 2016 Station-Berlin Luckenwalder Strasse 4-6 10963 Berlin 0049 30 2088 91330 www.premiumexhibitions.com —

22-25 January 2016 Parc des expositions de la Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 1 4013 7483 www.whosnext-tradeshow.com —

8-11 January 2016 Victoria House Bloomsbury Square, London WC1 0207 759 1999 www.londoncollections.co.uk —

PITTI UOMO 12-15 January 2016 Fortezza Da Basso, Florence 0039 55 0949 1861 www.pittimmagine.com —

TRANOI HOMME 23-25 January 2015 Palais de la Bourse & Cité de Mode et du Design, 75002 - 75013 Paris 0033 1 5301 8490 www.tranoi.com —

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PREVIEW | SHOW GUIDE | 47

PROJECT NEW YORK

MODA UK

JACKET REQUIRED

MODEFABRIEK

INDX MENSWEAR SHOW

IMC

MAGIC

24-25 January 2016 Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein 8 1078 GZ Amsterdam 0031 20 442 1960 www.modefabriek.nl —

3-4 February 2016 Cranmore Park, Solihull West Midlands, B90 4LF 0121 683 1434 www.indxshow.co.uk —

7-8 February 2016 Whittlebury Northamptonshire 01473 256061 www.imcmenswear.co.uk —

16-18 February 2016 Mandalay Bay Convention Centre Las Vegas 001 877 554834 www.magiconline.com —

PROJECT NEW YORK

JACKET REQUIRED

LONDONEDGE

MODA GENT

24-26 January 2016 The Javits Center, NYC 001 218 740 7092 www.magiconline.com —

3-4 February 2016 The Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick Lane London E1 6QL info@jacket-required.com www.jacket-required.com —

7-9 February 2016 West Hall, Olympia Exhibition Centre London W14 8UX 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com —

21-23 February 2016 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk —

CIFF

GDS

3-5 February 2016 Bella Centre, Centre Boulevard 5, Copenhagen 0045 3247 2213 www.ciff.dk —

10-12 February 2016 Messe Dusseldorf, Germany 0049 211 4560 7606 www.gds-online.com —

MRKET 24-26 January 2016 The Javits Center, NYC 001 238 536015 www.mrketshow.com —

LIBERTY FAIRS NEW YORK 26-28 January 2016 Pier 94, New York 001 212 473 4523 www.libertyfairs.com —

MAN NEW YORK 26-28 January 2016 775 Washington Street, New York 10014 0033 1 4366 5703 www.man-woman.co —

CAPSULE NEW YORK 26-28 January 2016 Pier 92, 711 12th Ave, 10019 001 212 206 9310 www.capsuleshow.com —

CIFF RAVEN 3-5 February 2016 Bella Centre, Centre Boulevard 5, Copenhagen 0045 3247 2213 www.ciff.dk —

REVOLVER 3-5 February 2016 Meatpacking District, Tietgensgade 65 DK-1704 Copenhagen V 0045 3964 8586 www.revolver.dk —

THEMICAM

MODA FOOTWEAR 21-23 February 2016 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk —

CPM MOSCOW

14-17 February 2016 Fieramilano, Milan 0039 02 438291 www.micamonline.com —

23-26 February 2016 Expocenter Fairgroup Moscow 0049 211 439 6312 www.cpm-moscow.com —

CAPSULE LAS VEGAS

THE HUB SHANGHAI

15-17 February 2016 The Venetian Ballroom 3355 S Las Vegas Blvd, 89109 001 212 206 9310 www.capsuleshow.com —

16-18 March 2016 Central Studios, Xintiandi Shanghai www.thehub.hk —

LIBERTY FAIRS LAS VEGAS 15-17 February 2016 Sands Expo, Venetian, Las Vegas 001 212 473 4523 www.libertyfairs.com —

VM AND DISPLAY SHOW 20-21 April 2016 Business Design Centre, London 01945 420068 www.vmanddisplay.com —

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DECEMBER 2015 | PROFILE | 49

CLEAN CUT LOOK FOR EDWIN With a new ultra-clean styled flagship shop on Covent Garden’s Henrietta Street, plans for more store openings across Europe, another new men’s jean fit set to launch and a relaunch of its women’s offer for a/w 16, Edwin has been busy laying foundations for the future, as Tom Bottomley discovers from the sales director for Edwin Europe, Charlie Warren. —

Edwin’s Shoreditch shop on Charlotte Road is rough ‘n’ ready with a bit of a vintage feel about it. But the new shop on Covent Garden’s Henrietta Street, where the likes of Nigel Cabourn, Fred Perry and The Real McCoy’s have also opened in recent times, has a much cleaner aesthetic. It signifies a new direction for the brand. You can really see the product and that, according to Charlie Warren – who was recently promoted from UK sales manager to sales director for Edwin Europe, is fully intentional. The shop is split over two floors (ground floor and basement) of just over 500 sq ft each. The building itself is part of the former St Peter’s Hospital, and the ceilings are very high. There are also huge windows overlooking the church gardens to the rear, so the store is very bright. The colour palette is clean with polished concrete floors, and the focus is very much on the product. “In terms of look and feel it’s more in line with the aesthetic of our stores in Paris and Milan,” says Warren. “We wanted to open a flagship store to really showcase Edwin Europe, as well as Edwin Japan, to a much wider audience. And we really wanted to make a statement with it. Covent Garden is a huge tourist attraction and it gives us the opportunity to engage an international market. I also know that the landlord, Capco, is really pushing hard to create a real menswear

destination on Henrietta Street. I have heard that Club Monaco will also be opening soon.” Edwin Europe is part of the Work in Progress (WIP) company based in Weil am Rhein in Germany. The UK is the brand’s strongest market in Europe, with France, Italy and Germany now growing. “So far we have six shops: one in Milan, two in Paris, one in Berlin and the two in London,” says Warren. “But our goal is to really have a big push on our retail profile and we’d like to open another 10 stores across Europe. One of those could potentially be another one in London, but this is still under consideration.” Warren says Edwin has higher brand awareness now than in 2012, when they inherited the Shoreditch shop from Three Threads, previously a multi-brand shop also owned by WIP. Warren’s new role means he is now working closely with agents and sales teams in season, and also with the design team at the head office in Germany. He is travelling all around Europe, as well as to Tokyo to liaise with Edwin Japan, in the country where the brand was founded in 1947, with its first jeans produced in 1963. “Edwin Japan is a different animal completely,” offers Warren. It’s more mainstream in Japan than here. They have around 2,000 stockists. The made in Japan product we sell here is our premium line when it comes to denim. It makes up around 20 per cent of our denim

collection. They truly are the masters when it comes to fabrics and wash techniques.” For s/s 16, Edwin launches its new line from Japan called E Modern. It’s a non selvedge stretch fabric which will start at £140 retail. “That will be the opening price point for the Japanese collection and it’s been very well received,” says Warren. The ED55 and ED80 remain Edwin’s bestselling fits. But there is also a new fit launching for a/w 16, the ED45. “It’s a loose taper fit,” says Warren. “Much looser than the ED55, and higher on the back rise. I’m sure it’s going to be a very commercial addition to the collection.” The other big news is that Edwin is relaunching its womenswear in earnest with a new designer, Andrea Ensinger (who used to work for Big Star and Lee), and a full-on collection for a/w 16. “It’s just been a tiny add-on collection in the past, almost an afterthought in our showroom in terms of the way it’s been sold and the way it’s been presented,” admits Warren. “But for a/w 16 all the fits on denim are new, and the collection has more than doubled in size, with a much stronger tops collection as well. It will be presented in its own new 600 square foot showroom on Old Street. So there will be a lot more emphasis on our women’s offer, which has been lacking for some time. On the whole, the future is looking bright for Edwin.”

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DECEMBER 2015 | GRENFELL | PROFILE | 50

A GREAT BRITISH CLASSIC Founded in 1923 as a ‘wonder fabric’ for outerwear and once worn by British royalty, racing car drivers and style icons such as Cary Grant, Grenfell is one of those forgotten-about British gems. With some new key personnel appointments, it is now relaunching for the UK market after recent strong sales in Japan, as Tom Bottomley discovers. —

Founded in 1923 by the Haythornthwaite family in Lancashire, Grenfell began as a ‘wonder fabric’ developed specifically to meet the new outerwear needs of explorer and missionary doctor Sir Wilfred Grenfell, who agreed to lend the fine cloth his name. The new Grenfell cloth was lighter in weight than what was previously available, but still highly weatherproof. Over the following decades it was worn by adventurers on Arctic expeditions, sportsmen, outdoorsmen and members of the royal family. Indeed it had a Royal Warrant for many years. “Grenfell was the Gore-Tex of its day,” says the brand’s commercial director, Gary Burnand, who was formerly instrumental in Barbour’s rise back to glory as its global marketing and strategy director. All manufactured in London, Grenfell has recently seen strong sales growth in Japan in stores such as SHIPS, Beams, United Arrows and Isetan. In fact, sales in Japan currently account

for over 80 per cent of overall sales. But now the focus is firmly back on its home market. Burnand has been joined at Grenfell by James Maxwell as global sales manager. He was also previously at Barbour for five years, during its fashion take-off. There is also a new head of design, Joslyn Clarke, who has over 30 years of experience in design working with British brands such as Hardy Amies, Katharine Hamnett, Charlie Allen and Ben Sherman. Of Clarke, Burnand says, “He has a fantastic pedigree, and really understands British menswear. He’s an exceptional talent and a fantastic asset.” Grenfell was still owned by the Haythornthwaite family up until the late 1980s, but during the late 70s and 80s it had struggled to find its position in a world of new synthetic fabrics and global competition from both offshore production and imported brands. The company was bought by a Japanese cashmere clothing brand and everything then moved to Japan.

“That was at a time when Japan was keeping alive a lot of old British brands. They were the people who really understood the authenticity and provenance of products before that became more of a global phenomenon. Burberry was another British brand being kept alive in Japan at that time, as was Aquascutum.” The latest chapter of the Grenfell brand began in 2002, when the Azam family bought the Grenfell business and returned it to the UK, moving all the manufacturing to London. The family used its expertise of 30 years in British and clothing manufacturing, including making luxury outerwear for Burberry and Aquascutum, to create a new foundation for the brand. So it’s quite ironic that 80 per cent of current sales are accounted for in the Japanese market. Grenfell CEO Mohammed Azam say, “Grenfell is a true British iconic brand with a great history and story to tell. It is a brand very dear to me, as I have seen it grow back from nothing, and

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I have been planning a proper relaunch of the brand ever since we acquired it. We now have a great team in place, along with amazing new and much larger production facilities in London, which will bring out the best in Grenfell. We hope to be one of the leading innovators in luxury clothing once again.” Grenfell was worn by some of the motor racing greats, such as Sir Malcolm Campbell, who gained the world speed record on land and water at various times during the 20s and 30s in his famous Blue Bird vehicles (Grenfell now has a dedicated capsule line paying homage to the Blue Bird links). Then there was no other than Stirling Moss, who in 1955 won the Mille Miglia in record-breaking time in one of Grenfell’s prestige boiler suits. The fabric was also used by other brands too, such as Eddie Bauer in the US and Lewis Leathers ‘Aviakit’ here, which offered a standard flying suit, but then also a version in Grenfell cloth at a premium price. “Grenfell also made the first real all-weather golf jacket in 1931,” says Burnand. “And the Golfer is a classic that’s still in the line today and looks very relevant again now. It will retail for about £325. It’s a key piece for us that really stands the test of time. Henry Cotton wore it, and he was very much the English golfing star in the 1930s and 40s with three victories in The Open Championship. As with Stirling Moss later, he was a real ambassador for the brand. And in 1947, both the British and American team wore Grenfell jackets in the Ryder Cup.” There will also be an entry price point Harrington style jacket that will retail for £250. And Grenfell has recently collaborated with renowned country gent outfitters Cordings

DECEMBER 2015 | GRENFELL | PROFILE | 51

“Grenfell also made the first real all-weather golf jacket in 1931. And the Golfer is a classic that’s still in the line today and looks very relevant again now.

of Piccadilly on a reissue of its Shooter jacket, often acknowledged as the definitive country sporting jacket by those in the know. “The one we’ve remade is based on a 1947 coat we produced under a dual label with Cordings,” says Burnand. “The Shooter is another absolutely iconic piece. It obviously came out of very strong military links. When you look at it, it’s very similar to a lot of the British and American field jackets of the day. It became the jacket for shooting and fishing. We have some wonderful archive images of it being featured in Country Life and other old magazines.” The new version features Grenfell’s proprietary cloth – a 600 thread count cotton gabardine created to be virtually impervious to water as the fibres swell and lock together when wet. The new Grenfell offer is not strictly 100 per cent outerwear, though that is certainly the specialist area and main focus, with some exceptional men’s overcoats set at a premium price point, as well as a very wearable and clean short raincoat and a traditional trench coat. Sales manager James Maxwell says, “We’re also doing some layering pieces. Taken from the archive, we’ve reworked some shooting and utility vests and gilets, and we’re also introducing some trousers in the collection for a/w 16 – again inspired by certain parts of the archive. There’s motor racing inspired trousers, and others that are more kind of English heritage pieces, so really good quality tweeds and wools.”

After a soft relaunch of the brand for s/s 16, a/w 16 is the really big push for proper menswear wholesale sales and distribution. “We love the Golfer jacket in particular, and we think that’s going to be a hit, starting in the spring season,” offers Maxwell. “It’s such an iconic British casual jacket that nobody else really knows about yet. It pops up featured in cult Japanese magazines, so it’s great to be able to launch it here again properly. We’re excited about what we’re selling.” It seems Grenfell now has the people and components in place to rebuild one of the great old British brands. Says Burnand, “We’ve been building a world class team, fit for a world class brand.” The expectation is certainly that some of the more fashion-led style accounts will come on board early in the New Year. Burnand believes a lot of good progress has been made already, and that it’s now about firmly establishing Grenfell with the opinion leaders in different fields. He says, “In terms of the interest once again in authenticity and British manufacturing, it’s certainly a good time for Grenfell to re-establish itself. I think the potential is actually bigger than Barbour. We’re playing to a higher level than Barbour as well. I see us very much as sitting in between Barbour and Burberry, but we don’t want to be as utilitarian as Barbour, and we don’t want to be as ‘fashion’ as Burberry.” Fighting talk indeed: time will tell if the new product can do the talking, too.

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DECEMBER 2015 | PEOPLE | 52

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK BEAUBIEN 21 RUE NOTRE-DAME-DE-NAZARETH, 75003 PARIS, FRANCE

SIMON SAYS “Would the real Simon Carter please stand up?” It’s not often that I get an irate customer on the phone. There are two reasons for this; firstly, the vast majority of our customers leave my stores very happy and, secondly, if there is a problem, it can almost invariably be resolved by one of my team. So, when the call came through last week and found its way up the food chain to my alpine eyrie, I knew it was serious. “There’s a gentleman on the phone who’s very unhappy that he was served by a Simon Carter impersonator,” said the Deputy Assistant Director, Client Relationships and Care Management. And Mr Faisal was, indeed, a very unhappy customer. He’d been to one of my branches where the manager is what could be termed “a character”. Now I’ve written about this before. I’m a great believer in having a big personality to be “front of house”; someone who can embody my brand and that the customers really enjoy meeting. The plus side is they do convey a sense of style and the values of the brand. The minus is that, very occasionally, banter and bonhomie can be misconstrued. Such was the case with Mr Faisal. He’d been trying on a jacket when he asked, as overseas visitors often do, if there is a real Simon Carter. “Sure,” said my manager, “It’s me.” Now this kind of shtick is fine if I’m there, too, and we can make the customer guess which one of us is the real deal, but not appropriate in my absence. And it got worse. Mr Faisal was so pleased to meet, and be served by, “me”, that he bought a pair of shoes. And posed for a selfie. And shook me by the hand. And went back to his hotel, told his wife what an amazing afternoon he’d had, and went onto my website, where he saw, quite plainly, that he’d been served by an imposter. Of course, this should never have happened. There’s no excuse; and once the gig had started, it seemed it was hard to escape from. I asked Mr Faisal what I could do to make it right for him. “I love your clothes, but it feels like I’ve been lied to,” he said. I arranged to meet him in store the following morning to apologise. He was perfectly calm, but wanted a refund for the jacket and shoes. I didn’t blame him. The intriguing part of this is how important it was for him to feel connected to the brand. That the sale, for him, meant so much more because he thought he’d met me. The product was still the same, but the experience was diminished. This goes to the core of successful retailing, whether it’s a branded or own-label offer, boutique or supermarket. Give the customer a genuine experience, and they’ll be back. Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

Originally named after a Montreal tube station, menswear store Beaubien – established in 2013 – combines the French words “beau” meaning “nice” and “bien” meaning “good”. With simplicity values at its core, the minimal store décor enforces the choice of name and the retailer’s overall ethos. Though relatively small in size, in-store there’s plenty of room to boast selected pieces of vintage Scandinavian furniture and offer up a varied and unique product mix. The simple design, as seen in the whitewashed walls, unfinished wooden floor and copper fixtures and fittings, puts a strong focus on the actual products rather than elaborate décor. Apparel, accessories and footwear are carefully sourced from Japan, Europe and the US through brands such as Howlin’, Norse Projects and Libertine-Libertine. Overall, visitors can expect to find a curated mix of casual clothing from exclusive brands with a creative edge, with the main idea to support and introduce fresh brands to the people of Paris. —

PLAN B

TERRY THREADINGHAM OWNER, LIZARD MENSWEAR, RICHMOND AND FARNHAM

If I wasn’t in retail I’d be a musician – a drummer, to be precise. — When I was about 12, I used to look in music shop windows and just ogle the drum kits. I loved the look of them. Then, in the 1960s in Portsmouth, my band, Coconut Mushroom, got signed to The Beatles’ record label Apple. Unfortunately, it was just before Apple folded! I then moved to London to find a new band, but eventually had to get a real job, and ended up working in retail in Kensington Market. I still play for fun, using my original 1966 Ludwig drum kit, in my current band, The Front Covers. We play 60s Soul and Motown covers, and we’re on YouTube. You never know, maybe this time I’ll get my big break! —

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DECEMBER 2015 | PEOPLE | 53

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL SIMON MIDDLETON FOUNDER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR, SHACKLETON I’m a pretty utilitarian dresser, a bit of a scruff actually, and one who keeps wearing the same things for, literally, years and years. The foundation of everything else is a comfortable T-shirt, and I have a pile of striped and plain John Lewis & Company tees which are affordable, durable and fit with anything. I’m an inveterate jeans wearer but I am aware that’s getting increasingly dangerous as I enter my late-50s. For the last decade I’ve worn only Paul Smith jeans because they fit so well, but we’re coming up for a review. I love knitwear, as you’d expect, because a replica of Ernest Shackleton’s roll-neck sweater from 1914 was the first garment we made, and the foundation of the whole Shackleton clothing brand. So, on virtually any day of the week, you’ll find me in one of our sweaters. My favourite jacket until this autumn has been a jean jacket in soft brown moleskin by FCUK. It’s at least a decade old and I’ve literally worn it threadbare, so it’s got to go. Luckily, perhaps, the first collection of our own outerwear has just arrived from the factory, and I’ve got my pick. Well, I’m going to have them all, of course, but my first favourite is the moleskin box jacket with big patch pockets, based on pictures of Antarctic explorers of a century ago. Of all apparel, it’s shoes and boots that seem to me to take on an emotional resonance, and almost to acquire the wearer’s personality. I was a teenager in the 1970s and came of age wearing Dr Martens. I’ve had a black pair for about 25 years. I’ve loved Joseph Cheaney & Sons shoes for a long time, too, and my collection includes somewhat knackered brogues, and of course our black Shackleton Crew boots (Cheaney was the obvious choice when we needed a great bootmaker to do ours). I love my Brasher walking boots, too. I’m no explorer, but few things give me greater joy than walking in Cumbria, and I’ve yet to find anything that performs as reliably as basic Brashers. Christopher Brasher was an athlete and founder of the London Marathon who invented a great walking boot, the Brasher Hillmaster, in the 1970s. —

TOP TWEETS Nathan Lewis @Nathan_Lewis_ Never say NO to the Macaroon! Seb Law @sebulous OK so Zoolander looks pretty hilarious then. Liberty London @LibertyLondon Thanks to the lovely @kylieminogue for unveiling our Christmas Windows! Tim Nokes @timnokes Fact of the day. Nicole Kidman is now used in all adverts, every single one of them. Nick Frost @nickjfrost I just saw Terry Wogan with a light sabre. Perfect Gentleman @ThePGentlemen We agree with @GreyFoxBlog – older men are ignored by the men’s style world – time to stand up & be counted! Johnstons of Elgin @Johnstons_Elgin Natural & sustainable. Just some of the many reasons we LOVE #merino wool #ChooseWool John Hendrickson @JohnGHendy “That skateboarding bulldog who tweeted at us isn’t verified, wonder if it’s a fake.” – A real thought I just had. ASOS Menswear @ASOS_Menswear Getting dark early now, ain’t it?

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p FRENCH OUTERWEAR BRAND K-WAY CELEBRATED ITS 50TH BIRTHDAY LAST MONTH WITH A PARTY HOSTED IN LONDON’S SHOREDITCH. PICTURED IS K-WAY’S HEAD OF MARKETING, JASON FAIRCLOUGH (LEFT) WITH FABRIC PR FOUNDER KHABI MIRZA.

p THE ROUNDHOUSE AND CLOTHING BRAND FARAH UNVEILED A NEW PARTNERSHIP – FARAH PRESENTS – LAST MONTH, TO SUPPORT YOUNG RESIDENT ARTISTS AT THE LEGENDARY LONDON VENUE. ROUNDHOUSE RESIDENT DJ SHAN MCGINLEY KICKED OFF THE EVENTS ON 4 NOVEMBER.

p THE 39 CLUB WELCOMED GUESTS TO ITS OPEN EVENING ON 18 NOVEMBER, WITH NEW MEMBERS INCLUDING SILVIA COLLINS, EVENT DIRECTOR OF MODA GENT – PICTURED WITH UK AGENT KEITH BROWN, GIBSON’S SIMON PARR, FARAH’S JASON MCKEY, ENYA’S JAMIE HARDEN, KAMLA PATEL FROM GABICCI AND THE CLUB’S CHAIRMAN, ANDREW TOMPSETT.

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DECEMBER 2015 | 55

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

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BLACK FRIDAY – CURSE OR SAVIOUR? Kicking off four days of discounting, culminating in Cyber Monday – which followed Sofa Sunday (for some reason the Saturday has not managed to claim a silly name yet), Black Friday, viewed by many as a curse that came from “over the pond”, certainly must have got the tills ringing. My email was chocka with retailers and brands offering price cuts, with 20% off being about the average, though the likes of Oi Polloi, Oliver Spencer and Private White V.C. kept it at 15%, Present and Hanon went for 30%, Gap upped the odds to 40% (mind you, Gap seems to permanently be on Sale anyway!) and Jack Wills came in with a whopping 50% off “selected products”, which roughly translates as the stuff that’s not shifting. The trouble is, once people get used to seeing such big discounts, they’re highly unlikely to want to go back to paying full price on Normal Tuesday, are they? Which begs the question of why margins are being drastically reduced at the time of year when retailers need to be making up for the rest of the year. Indeed, one theory of the origins of Black Friday in the US, where it is the last Thursday of November, following Thanksgiving, is that it’s the day that retailers finally go in to profit for the year, hence the “black”, having been stuck in the “red” for the rest of the year. It also supposedly kicks off a Christmas spending spree that should have retailers singing Tis the Season to be Jolly. But, as David Chalcraft, principal lecturer in marketing and business strategy at Westminster Business School, says, “With many large stores continuing to partake in the bargain event, this frenzied weekend shifts the pattern of pre-Christmas buying, pulling it forward and arguably depressing margins ahead of the most important trading period of the year. Whether this will increase the total seasonal spend, or offer an advantage in the struggle for the shoppers’ pound is debatable.” The trouble is, as an independent, can you really afford not to join in?

REALM & EMPIRE X IWM POP-UP GETS OFF TO A FLYER The new Realm & Empire collaboration pop-up shop with the Imperial War Museum (IWM) – set to run to the end of December at 5 Earlham Street on Seven Dials – has hit the ground running in terms of creating intrigue. It’s apparently the first time the museum has ever done any retail outside

p REALM & EMPIRE X IWM POP-UP t LOCAL RESEARCH’S NEW SEAMER SHOE

of its own buildings, and fitting because Realm & Empire uses the IWM archives as its design starting point for each collection it produces. It’s also the brand’s very first retail venture. The key product focus in-store is R&E’s a/w 15 Flyers collection, influenced by the Battle of Britain, RAF Bomber Command and US aircrew pieces, such as an A2 leather flying jacket with bespoke, handpainted “nose art” on the back. The store also has unique gifts that reflect the IWM archives, such as Bulldog salt and pepper pots inspired by Churchill, Spitfire cufflinks crafted from metal originating from an excavated Spitfire Mk 1, and some great books and framed posters. All in all, an inspiring idea.

NEW BRAND TAPS IN TO NORTHAMPTON’S SHOE HERITAGE Working alongside Northamptonshire’s remaining footwear factories, Local Research is a new brand founded by local man Mark Higgs. “We’re working closely with the factory’s brand owners themselves to create footwear that is made with traditional methods and construction but with a contemporary take,” says Higgs. “Living and walking the streets daily, and personal contact

with local factory owners and workers inspired me to highlight the town’s many hidden treasures.” The first shoe horn in is with George Cox, with its HQ still in Wellingborough. George Cox is a fourth-generation, family-owned business which was thrust into the limelight with its Brothel Creeper silhouette, created in 1949. The style was first adopted by the Teddy Boys in the 1950s, and was then given further exposure during the 1970s through the UK punk movement. With this history in mind, Local Research has taken cues from George Cox’s storied past, to create the all-new Seamer shoe, which boasts a hand-stitched vamp, leather collar, and heel pull with LR branding. Finished in premium black suede or sandstone suede with brass eyelets and lace hooks, the shoes have been constructed on George Cox’s traditional 1353 last. The seamed Gibson shoe sits atop a natural crepe wraparound creeper sole with a notched tan welt. And it’s a good-looking shoe, that’s for sure. This first run also includes a special edition, handmade wooden presentation box. The George Cox for Local Research Seamer could well be the first of many new designs to be influenced by Northampton’s rich footwear archives. We like a bit of that.

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DECEMBER 2015 | DIRECTORY | 56

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LAST ORDERS WITH... FIONA MILLS British label Parka London has enjoyed success in the UK market since its conception back in 2012. Isabella Griffiths catches up with its creative director Fiona Mills to discuss bucket lists, guilty pleasures and what exactly she’d be doing now if Parka London had stayed a dream instead of reality. —

DOB: 31 July Place of birth: New Zealand Lives now: London, UK Twitter: @ParkaLondonUK Website: www.parkalondon.com — What’s your happiest childhood memory? I grew up with summers swimming by a lake. A big highlight in my childhood, which I still remember vividly, is getting up on skis behind the boat for the first time and doing a whole loop without falling off when I was six years old. I think it was the first time I ever found out what adrenaline felt like, and I was pretty much nagging my dad to do it again and again, all day. Which song sums you up? Human Behaviour by Björk. Humans are so complex, it’s exhausting. We are such intelligent creatures, and sometimes we need to remember the simple things in life. This song reminds me to stop and think. It’s all just human behaviour (mostly mine) that is causing life to go so fast. What’s the naughtiest thing you’ve ever done? That’s a hard question, as I definitely had fun as a teenager. Taking the car on massive road trips to the beach with my friends when I only had my learner’s licence is not something I’d recommend to my future kids. What are the top three things on your bucket list? My husband and I are planning a trip to Vietnam for our honeymoon, so I hope to tick one off soon. Also on my list is going travelling for six months in one go and enjoying nature and the sunrises and sunsets – it’s something I really miss living in London. I also want to build something I’m proud of and leave something in the world that lingers and that people connect with. I hope I’m doing that with Parka London. What’s your favourite tipple? Sake – I like the process of warming it and serving it in the cute cups, and there are always the raised glasses that bring good cheer before you drink. It feels special. Which could you cope better with, no internet or no mobile phone for the day? They’re the same thing really, as I do a lot of internet messaging from my phone. I would probably relax a little without the phone and

enjoying just getting from A to B and not posting the next Instagram and checking my three different emails etc. Would you rather rewind life or pause it? Neither, but I’d focus on freeing up time to spend with the people closest to me. Time goes so fast when you have so many deadlines on a cycle – it’s hard to focus on the ‘now’ and enjoy it. What’s your guilty pleasure? This is weird, but I have around 30 nail polishes. I find it relaxing to pour a glass of wine and do my nails in the evening – probably because it means I can’t pick up my phone or do anything for at least half an hour. What achievement are you most proud of? Moving to the UK 10 years ago. I arrived with a one-year open-return ticket, a one-week offer to stay on a friend’s sofa, and that’s about it. I almost had to go back to New Zealand due to money at the beginning. I worked hard to get a job in the industry and never dreamt I would end up creating and directing a clothing brand that I truly believe in. If you hadn’t created Parka London, what would you be doing? I love making things. My dad is a builder, and I love the smell of freshly cut sawdust in his workshop. So I could have quite possibly been a furniture designer or maker.

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Favourite film of all time: The Grand Budapest Hotel – creatively shot, with a bit of humour. — Biggest vice: Trying to be everything all at once. — What would you tell your 16 year-old self? Not to worry so much about what anyone thinks: just do what feels right for you and it will pay off in the end. — Who you like to see wearing Parka London? Nicholas Hoult – he has his own sense of style and I can see him developing a really unique look with age. —

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