WWB MAGAZINE JANUARY ISSUE 252 by fashion buyers Ltd

WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk JANUARY 2016/ ISSUE 252/ £6.95

AUTUMN/WINTER 16 BUYER’S GUIDE GOING DUTCH Tramontana’s quest for international expansion BRITISH HERITAGE Why Barbour’s drawing on its design legacy to launch ‘Timeless Originals’ FASHION SCOOP WWB’s exclusive pick of the brands not to miss at the show

MY MICHÈLE

WINTER 2016

DÜSSELDORF CPD · HALLE 30 ·1.07 Partners in Fashion Ltd. Chris and Monika Bartscht 16 a Newman Street GB - London W1T 1PB Phone: +44-207-636 4207 Fax: +44-207-436 2243 E-Mail: michele@partnersinfashion.co.uk

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THE BUYER’S GUIDE A comprehensive round-up of the season ahead

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SUGAR AND STRIPES Young fashion in the spotlight

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SCOOP The show’s founder Karen Radley picks her brands to watch

103/ M O D A F I R S T G L A N C E A sneak peek at what next month’s edition has to offer

106/ S O U N D A D V I C E How in-store music can boost business

111/ E - T A I L C L I N I C Expert e-commerce advice

114/ T H E L A S T W O R D With Suzanne Doani, director, Suzy D

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EDITOR’S COMMENT

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NEWS

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BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear

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TALKING POINT Your views on the issues shaping the industry

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NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS Industry insiders share their 2016 business goals

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INTERVIEW With Barbour’s Ian Bergin

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STYLE FILE The latest directional product news

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FASHION RADAR WWB’s brand to watch

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GET KNITTED The best transitional knits to get in-store now

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DUTCH COURAGE Tramontana’s global ambitions

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A U T U M N W I N T E R 2016 C O L L E C T I O N TO M A K E A N A P P O I N T M E N T AT A S H O W R O O M N E A R YO U P L E A S E C O N TA C T: E : T R A D E @ J O U L E S . C O. U K

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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com

Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths

Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

WWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2016 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

The run-up to Christmas is the most important trading period of the year: this time round it made for a difficult environment for indies and high street giants alike, though I’m pleased to hear from conversations with independents that most of you have managed to have a profitable few weeks. On the high street, there were a few winners, including John Lewis, Next, House of Fraser and, not surprisingly, Primark, but for most key retail players and supermarkets, including the likes of M&S, which reported a slump in general merchandise (which covers clothing and homeware) by 5.8 per cent, profits took a tumble. There have been many elements at play this season which have impacted on trading. The growth of discount days such as Black Friday and Cyber Monday put pressure on retailers of all sizes, while consumers seemed to vote with their feet, preferring to bash their credit cards online rather than in-store. Equally, it is undeniable that consumers have wisened up to the ubiquitous discounting prior to Christmas and are holding out until they get the deal they want. Price comparison and price matching also play a huge role in this, and it takes a brave retailer to keep their cool and not go into discounting – especially heavy reductions – too early. And then, of course, there has been the unseasonably warm weather this Christmas. Stormy and windy it was, but temperature-wise we have had a more spring-like climate, which is

not very conducive to winter sales. Having caught up with a number of indies over the last week, I hear that outerwear and warm knitwear sales – traditionally popular Christmas presents – have been somewhat affected, though thankfully not as much as many expected. Which leads us to the perpetual question of the seasons and how adequate traditional sales patterns are when it comes to the impact of the unpredictable weather on trading. Most brands now offer early delivery drops that are ‘ready-to-wear’ in the literal sense of the phrase, as well as in-season drops, but even then retailers are at the mercy of erratic weather patterns. There is no easy answer to this, and unless anyone has a crystal ball, the weather will always be something we cannot control and have to deal with. This issue kicks off our a/w 16 previews, and once again we have compiled a comprehensive guide to everything you need to know this season, including key trends and the brands to watch. Having looked through mountains of collection reports and imagery for this issue, it appears that a/w 16 is very much a season where tactile textures and a luxurious undertone play a huge part, where clean lines are offset with sumptuous fabrics to create effortless glamour with wearability – and most importantly, saleability – at the core. With that in mind, I wish you all a happy and healthy 2016 and a very productive buying season, and I hope to see you at the shows.

WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company

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INDIES HOLD THEIR OWN DURING TOUGH CHRISTMAS TRADING Discount days put pressure on retailers, however, strong online sales helped with solid overall performance.

Trading during the all-important Christmas period was a mixed bag for high-street chains, with many key players reporting flat in-store sales prior to the holidays, as well as sales post Boxing Day. Independents, however, have managed to hold their own, and whilst being increasingly under pressure from discount days such as Black Friday and Cyber Monday, many have experienced solid trading over the crucial period. In Ipswich, Coes buying director Matthew Rawlings says sales were on target for the Christmas period. “We’ve had a good Christmas. We were up on last year’s holiday trading period. It’s a single figure increase, but it’s an improvement and we exceeded our targets so we’re pleased. Footfall was also up on last year despite the mild weather. We still sold a large amount of knitwear and outerwear, and generally across the board there haven’t been any notable problems this year,” he says. Sales at Coes were strong across both in-store and online. “It’s been fairly equal,” says Rawlings. “We still find people like to visit us in-store, so we get different kinds of customers going to the website. They work well together, and we’ve found that throughout Christmas the website has supported the store through extra sales. We were full price up until Christmas, and this is a strategy that’s not going to change. We don’t find that 20 per cent off an item and constantly offering deals and money off works for us. “We went into sale on 29th December and I would say it’s been the best sale period ever. As you might expect, it was busy

on the first day of sale leading up until just after New Year and then it tailed off a bit. This is usually the case and will pick up again at the end of January.” This pattern is recognised by Russell Jones, co-director of Robinsons of Bawtry in Doncaster, who says the store saw strong trading in the run-up to Black Friday, followed by an expected quieter period since the start of the year. “We had a great quarter from September leading up until Black Friday and we were up 12 per cent on last year. But then Black Friday floored us. We were heavily hit by the internet deals and low prices. It’s not necessarily bigger shops any more, it’s online we can’t really compete with. Post Christmas we had a busy period in the time leading up to New Year and now in January it’s really quiet. It’s typical of the time of year – there’s always a lull. It’s just more important now to maximise the pre Christmas sales to see you through the first half of January,” he says. Jones says that, based on this year’s trading pattern, next Christmas will see an even stronger focus on pricing and a social media sales campaign. “For next year we will have to price match, though I’m reluctant to discount any further. I will have to match the competition online – I will advertise this in-store and via social media so that customers are really aware and hopefully it will encourage more people to come in. But, at the end of the day, if people don’t want to put their hands in their pockets – or can’t put their hands in their pockets – there’s nothing more you can do.”

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NEWS IN BRIEF

THE FOLD RECEIVES INVESTMENT

STRENGTHENED LINE-UP AT MODA WOMAN

Upmarket womenswear brand The Fold has received an undisclosed sum of investment from Active Private Equity (Active), a growth capital firm specialising in consumer brands. Active is said to have taken a “significant” stake in the business, alongside founder Polly McMaster, who launched the label in 2011, and entrepreneur Richard Sims, founding investor at Mint Velvet, who will be appointed to the board as chairman. The Fold is aimed at professional women at the quality/premium end of the market and operates an omni-channel sales strategy covering the brand’s e-commerce website, catalogues and a store located in the City of London. The brand also hosts networking events and career mentoring events such as breakfast seminars. Active aims to accelerate the growth of The Fold, using the group’s experience in brand development and its track record of managing growth both domestically and internationally.

Moda Woman has further bolstered its line-up of womenswear and accessories labels ahead of its a/w 16 edition, which will take place at Birmingham’s NEC on 21-23 February. The comprehensive portfolio of labels will be showcased within a new format, which will see a new unisex area along the border of Moda Gent and Moda Woman, and an improved accessories layout where labels will benefit from new adjacencies with complementary womenswear brands. New arrivals to the show include directional New York fashion label Samuel Dong, Swedish outerwear label Didriksons, Brodie Cashmere (pictured), Rino & Pelle, Brakeburn and contemporary accessories brands Spikes & Sparrow and Mighty Purse. Returning favourites include James Lakeland, Leo Guy, Smashed Lemon, Lily & Me and Christina Felix.

EMRECO TURNS NINETY UK womenswear brand Emreco is celebrating its 90th anniversary this season. A third generation family business, Emreco’s a/w 16 collection has cherry picked some popular style references from its design archive as inspiration for the latest range. Designed at its Glasgow head office since 1926, the British boutique brand has over 350 stockists in the UK and Ireland and specialises in effortless everyday styling with contemporary detailing. “2016 will be a big year for Emreco as we celebrate a milestone birthday,” says marketing manager Lesley Comrie. “Autumn/ winter 2016 therefore sees a celebration of traditional techniques and the further inclusion of more tactile, natural yarns to denote an elevated sense of quality for our customers.” Emreco will show its anniversary collection at Moda Woman.

INDUSTRY FIGURES RECOGNISED IN NEW YEAR’S HONOURS A number of key industry figures have been named in the Queen’s New Year’s Honours list, including Natalie Massenet, founder of Net-a-Porter and chairman of the British Fashion Council, who has been made a Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire, or DBE, for services to the fashion and retail industries. Ann Summers and Knickerbox chief executive Jacqueline Gold was also among the recipients, having been awarded a CBE, while British Retail Consortium chief executive Helen Dickinson received an OBE for services to the retail industry. POLO RALPH LAUREN TO OPEN LONDON FLAGSHIP Ralph Lauren Corporation has announced plans for its first flagship Polo Ralph Lauren store in Europe, to open next year on Regent Street in London. The store, which will offer both womenswear and menswear and a diverse product portfolio, strengthens the company’s commitment to the region. Opening next summer, the new store will reflect Ralph Lauren’s goal to further build the Polo brand presence globally. UKFT APPOINTS NEW CEO The UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) has appointed Adam Mansell to the role of Chief Executive Officer, taking over from John Miln who is stepping down this month. Mansell is currently director of special projects at UKFT, as well as a director of Wulff Consultancy, a bespoke consultancy for the fashion and textile industry and has recently been elected as President of Ginetex, the organisation that owns the trademarked care labelling symbols. As of January 2016, Mansell will also be a Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Framework Knitters. Mansell has links to every part of the industry from design, fabric and component suppliers to wholesalers, brands, manufacturers and retail.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

SCOOP LONDON REVEALS LATEST LINE-UP

CAROL C COLLECTIONS EXPANDS PORTFOLIO

Scoop London, the sister event to boutique trade show Scoop, has announced the latest high-profile signings to its second edition, which takes place on 21-23 February at the Saatchi Gallery in London. Among the new exhibitors are iconic labels Cacharel and Terry de Havilland, which are joined by the likes of Antipodium, Karl Donoghue, Nach Bijoux, Maison Baluchon, Feldt, Libertine Libertine, Garment Project, Gudrun & Gudrun, Hillary McMillan and Rains. The show was launched in September as a new addition to the seasonal calendar and runs alongside London Fashion Week. Scoop London offers an exclusive and completely different exhibitor profile to Scoop, with around 180 brands covering ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and lifestyle products, including first and second lines and overseas labels which typically work to a later production timetable. The first edition of Scoop runs on 31 January to 2 February at the Saatchi Gallery. For details of both shows, visit www.scoop-international.com.

Fashion agency Carol C Collections has diversified its portfolio with two new labels for a/w 16, German brand Blue Flame and Ukrainian collection MN. Both brands specialise in outerwear, further extending the product category of the agency, which also represents Lindi, Foil, Smashed Lemon, Tara Vao, S’Quise and Marilu. Blue Flame offers trend-led coats and jackets at commercial price-points of high quality, with key pieces including quilted coats, from light to heavy padding, with metallic and pastel colours among the dominating shades. The range covers sizes 10 to 24. Meanwhile, MN is based around raw materials with high-end artificial fur linings and trims in elegant designs. The a/w 16 collection was created using organic and eco-fur materials, with colours based around natural pastels and darker tones. The brand is positioned at the midmarket and caters for sizes 8 to 20. All of the agency’s brands will be shown at next month’s Moda Woman.

OPSH EXPANDS IN THE UK Irish destination platform Opsh has launched to the UK offering online consumers a streamlined way of shopping. Opsh facilitates the transaction between shopper and retailer, allowing the consumer to access and explore full product ranges from their favourite high-street stores via one destination. The platform aims to create a tailor-made service for each shopper by tagging algorithms across products and content to deliver the desired results in accordance with the interests of the buyer. Featured retailers include Kurt Geiger, Jaeger, Uniqlo, Reiss, All Saints and Lavish Alice, with Top Shop soon to be added. Launched by three sisters who are at the forefront of Ireland’s booming tech start-up scene, the business is backed by Brett Palos, Sir Philip Green’s stepson and Enterprise Ireland. During its first year, Opsh has grown rapidly, with online users increasing to 65,000 from 5,000. Opsh has been named one of the top 50 retail innovations in the UK by business website Retail Insights, as well as number one on Harper’s Bazaar’s list of the top five fashion apps – cementing the concept as a unique and pioneering shopping platform.

BUSINESS RATES PREVENT NEW JOBS AND DEVELOPMENT A new report has revealed that reducing the burden of business rates could unlock almost 4,000 jobs and £1.75bn development over the next five years. The report by the British Property Federation (BPF), British Council of Shopping Centres (BCSC) and British Council for Offices (BCO), written by Regeneris Consulting, has revealed that over a period of two to three years, approximately three quarters of any increase in business rates is transferred to landlords as occupiers push for lower rents. The report shows that over the past three years, increases in business rates may have led to the economy missing out on as much as £670m of new development, and in addition may have resulted in as many as 6,000 fewer jobs among occupiers of property. JANE NORMAN LAUNCHES OUTLET WEBSITE Jane Norman has launched a brand new outlet website, www.janenormanoutlet. com. The outlet will be offering customers up to 70 per cent off Jane Norman ranges. “We are excited to be launching our first outlet website. We want to provide our customers with the best deals on a selection of our past season styles, saving them a considerable amount on the looks they love,” says Victoria Bell, brand manager. UK BUSINESS INCOME GROWTH SLOWS IN 2015 UK businesses have seen a 24 per cent rise in annual income growth since 2010, according to the latest Barclays SME Income Index. Analysis of the current account levels of Barclays small and medium sized enterprises (SMEs) in 2015 showed that year-on-year the annual growth rate of business income has slowed, from a high of 8 per cent in 2014, the biggest in 14 years, to 4 per cent. Yet with some annual income growth having occurred in 2015, SMEs are projected to continue to experience growth in 2016.

W H E R E FAS H I O N CO M E S TO G E T H E R

2 1 - 2 3 Fe b r u a r y 2 0 1 6 NEC Birmingham To reserve a stand call +44 (0)1484 846069 Find out more and register for your ticket at moda-uk.co.uk

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NEWS IN BRIEF

THE INTIMATE BALL SET FOR GLAMOROUS DEBUT

HAPPY RAINY DAYS FOR PARTNERS IN FASHION

This season will see The Intimate Ball make its debut at the newly-opened Vox venue at Birmingham’s NEC. Hosted by Moda Woman and Moda Lingerie & Swimwear on Monday 22 February, the event will bring together those in the womenswear and intimate apparel trade for a glittering evening of networking and entertainment. Popular BBC Breakfast presenter Steph McGovern will compere the event, which is sponsored by lingerie giant Wacoal Europe and organised in aid of breast cancer awareness charity Coppafeel! Fundraising features will include a silent auction, for which prizes include a champagne reception to see Adele at her sold-out live show at Birmingham’s Genting Arena and a professional photoshoot. “We’re delighted to sponsor The Intimate Ball,” says Ann-Marie Manley, head of marketing at Wacoal. “This should be a great event to celebrate and bring together everyone in our industry, as well as support such a good cause.”

Dutch rainwear brand Happy Rainy Days has joined the brand stable of fashion agency Partners in Fashion for a/w 16. The label is the brainchild of a design duo who launched the label after being frustrated with the rainwear on offer. The philosophy is to transform rainwear from a purely functional product to one in which function, trend-awareness and comfort are combined. The collection consists of a variety of coats and rain macs in a choice of bold prints or rich plains, each featuring high-quality lining and offering waterproof, windproof and breathable properties. Details such as wind cuffs, waterproof zippers and detachable, adjustable hoods provide additional design highlights. The agency has also taken on German contemporary outerwear collection 7 Seasons. Comprising around 50 styles, the brand’s signature coats and jackets are made with careful attention to detail combined with creative design and functionality.

FINISTERRE LAUNCHES WHOLESALE OPERATION British cold water surf company Finisterre is launching its first wholesale distribution model with a women’s and men’s capsule collection for a/w 16. The new wholesale expansion is the next phase in the brand’s long term, targeted retail strategy, following the launch of Finisterre flagship stores in London, St Agnes, Falmouth and Braunton. “We’ve been fine tuning the product range for over 12 years. We are incredibly excited to embark on a focused wholesale strategy and get the product we are so proud of in front of the right people,” says founder Tom Kay. “We’ll be working with key accounts that understand the way we do things and represent the brand and product in the best possible way.” A specially designed and dedicated showroom at the Finisterre flagship at 7 Earlham Street, Covent Garden, London will host the collection previews on 1-12 February. The collection is focused on durability and craftsmanship and features a full lifestyle offer covering outerwear, knitwear, sweats and hoodies, shirts, tops, dresses, skirts and accessories.

K-SWISS CELEBRATES 50 YEARS WITH NEW COLLECTION To mark 50 years of heritage American tennis design, K-Swiss will release new styles for its s/s 16 footwear collection. Pieces will honour the brand’s past while celebrating the future of footwear design. The new line draws inspiration from the brand’s modern-day mission to inspire and outfit the next generation of entrepreneurs. K-Swiss will also introduce the D-R-Cinch Pack; a collection of footwear that features the brand’s signature D-R-Cinch lacing technology born from the Si-18 International shoe in the 1990s. BUNKER MOVES PRODUCTION TO EUROPE Footwear brand Bunker is moving its production from Asia to Europe. Established in Spain in 1950 by the Alcocel family, Bunker is returning 90 per cent of production to Spain and Portugal. Recognised for its urban trainers and boots, Bunker is inspired by workwear, 1970s rock and, more recently, rock chic. The decision to move production from Asia back to Europe was made to better control the quality and deliver superior leather uppers. ANNUAL INVESTMENT IN SHOPPING CENTRES RISES Annual investment in shopping centres is predicted to reach £4.3billion, falling short of 2014’s nine-year high, according to research from CBRE. While UK shopping centres enjoyed their annual Christmas sales pick-up, total investment for 2015 is set to have dropped 23 per cent below 2014’s volume of £5.3bn. Private Equity has dominated the landscape in 2015 accounting for 46 per cent of all acquisitions across 26 transactions. This contrasts with previous years when purchasers have been evenly split across REITs, Institutions and Private Equity.

TWO SCOOPS PER SEASON SCOOP 31 JANUARY - 2 FEBRUARY 2016

SCOOP LONDON 21 - 23 FEBRUARY 2016

SAATCHI GALLERY, LONDON REGISTER AT SCOOP-INTERNATIONAL.COM

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THINK YOU KNOW MODA? NEC, Birmingham, 21-23 February

With a new format, a new location and a whole range of new features, next month’s edition of Moda Woman marks the start of a new era for the industry’s national show. Start planning your visit now.

PASSPORT

CHANNEL JUMPER

Having undergone a reorganisation for a/w 16, Moda Woman is better placed than ever to showcase the industry’s leading line-up of brands. With a new location within the NEC, Moda Woman maintains its convenient adjacencies with Moda Accessories and Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, while evolving its own distinct identity as a standalone show. “As well as benefiting from being part of a larger event, each of the Moda shows also has its own individual requirements, something which as organisers we review every season,” says Nick Cook, portfolio director of show organiser ITE Moda. “The changes we’re making for next year allow us to take full account of the requirements of each of the industries we represent, and introduce new features which exhibitors and buyers have been asking us for.” Moda sees the introduction of a brand new unisex area on the new border between the womenswear and menswear shows, where buyers will find a keen focus on contemporary lifestyle brands. New names heading to the NEC to debut in the area include Regatta and Didricksons, showing contemporary outerwear alongside other leading names in casual and lifestyle fashion. New features within Moda Woman include the launch of Moda Loves, a dedicated area for directional and trend-led women’s fashion labels. In line with the show’s new format, Moda Loves will benefit from a new border with complementary

M O D A / P R O M O T I O N / 17 moda-uk.co.uk

EXHIBITOR LIST NOW LIVE ON THE NEW-LOOK MODA WEBSITE DON’T MISS A THING THIS SEASON. REGISTER FOR YOUR FREE TICKET NOW AT MODA-UK.CO.UK

fashion-focused brands within Moda Accessories. For Moda White meanwhile, the focus is on contemporary new labels from all over the world. New York brand Samuel Dong will make its Moda debut this season, unveiling a collection of dresses and outerwear in its signature statement silhouettes. The directional US label will be joined by fellow debutante Brodie Cashmere, which arrives amidst a strokably soft collection of wearable pieces in 100 per cent cashmere. Moda White’s new arrivals strengthen an already established line-up, which welcomes back James Lakeland, Leo Guy and Peruzzi. Moda White labels will be showcased alongside contemporary handbag and jewellery labels within Moda Accessories. Moda Noir maintains its position as the sector’s essential event for evening and occasionwear, bringing together a luxurious collection of designs for formal dressing. Returning favourites include Mascara, John Charles, Veromia Occasions and Linea Raffaelli, while the area will benefit from a new adjacency with leading millinery labels within Moda Accessories. Moda Woman will also play host to its first-ever Outdoor Lifestyle area this season, bringing together functional fashion labels for life on the moors and shores. Brakeburn, Braintree,

Ness, Henry Arroway and Dock of the Bay are just some of the womenswear labels confirmed to show within the new area, which is underpinned by a strong unisex offer of brands including Alan Paine, Falke, Burlington, Channel Jumper, Dents and Cap Frehel. For buyers all over the UK, the changes being introduced this February will result in a national event that is more relevant than ever. “The layout at Moda Woman improves all the time,” says Cindy Marritt, owner of Cindy’s Fashions in Sutton Bridge, Lincolnshire. “We have attended the show since the beginning because it’s a fabulous opportunity to see a lot of collections very quickly, and we love to catch up with other retailers at the end of the day.” Fellow retailer Dee Brain agrees that Moda Woman is an essential date on the calendar when it comes to securing a comprehensive overview of the season to come. “Moda makes it easy to spend my budget because I can see labels one after the other, and make sure that I get the right mix of styles and colours,” says the proprietor at Serendipity Fashions in Guildford, Surrey. “Last season we were looking for a particular type of new label which we found at Moda Woman, and that saved us a lot of legwork.”

EXHIBITORS INCLUDE: Adia • Alice Collins • Angel Circle • Ann Balon • Ann Balon Occasions • Ann Balon Tuscany • Anuschka • Arctic Storm • Atelier Gardeur • Auburn • Bagoraz • Baleno • Bariloche • Baronia • Beau Moda Collections • Beau Monde • Betty Kay • Bianca • Bianca Nieri • Braintree Clothing • Brakeburn • Brandtex • Brodie Cashmere • Capri Clothing • Carol C Collections • Casamia • Cashmere Silk Company • Christina Felix • Circle of Trust • Cloda • Constance Wood Trousers & Skirts • Cosy by De Luciano • Cozzi • D.E.C.K. By Decollage • Daisy May • David Barry • De Luciano • Didriksons • Donna Lewis • Double M Int • Dress Code • Dressed Up • Elisa Cavaletti • Eliz Scott • Ella Boo • Elle Sport • Emma • Emreco • Eternal • Eva Tralala • Faber • Fenella • Foil • Frandsen • Frank Saul of London • Georgede • Gilbert Wilson • Gill Knitwear • Ginger Toby • Godske Of Denmark • Gold Leaf • Gracie B • Grenouille • Habella • Harley Of Scotland • Hell Bunny • Henry Arroway • House of Cheviot • House of Dreams • Image • Intown • Irresistible • Izabella • James Lakeland • JayLey Collection • Jessica Graaf • John Charles • Jórli • Joss & Florence • Junge • Kalisson • Kate Cooper • Kesta • Kirsten Krog • Klassik • Koo-Ture • Lady Line Coats • L’Atelier • Latte • Lauren Vidal • Lazy Jacks • Leo Guy • Lighthouse • Lily & Me • Lindi • Linea Raffaelli • Lizzie Clarke • Mac in a Sac • Made in Italy • Mama B • Made in Italy • Marble • Marie Mero • Mascara • Matti Mamane UK • Michaela Louisa • Miss Baron • Miyoko • Mode • Mode International • Mudflower • Nabella • NandWillow • Narsirlilar • NassC • Naya • Ness • Nina Murati • Nomads • Nü • Olivier Philips • Orla • Outdoor Leisurewear • Paola Collection • Paradiso Couture • Paramount Knitwear • Paramour • Passioni • Passport • Pause Café • Personal Choice • Peruzzi • Phool • Pilgrim Apparel • Pinns • Pistachio • Pomodoro • Pure & Natural • Q’neel • Q’ue • Rainydays • Refa • Reflect Knitwear • Rever Mile • Rino & Pelle • Robell • S’Quise • Sahara • Saloos • Samuel Dong • Scott Officer • Signature • Smashed Lemon • South Lodge • Sugar Crisp • Sunco • Tara Vao • Terminal One • That’s Me • Tia • Tiffany • Tina Taylor • Tinta Style • Tivoli • Veromia Occasions • Vijay Fashions • Western Wind • View the full list online at moda-uk.co.uk SAMUEL DONG

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Backstage

The events, campaigns and parties not to miss 01/ LEEDS FASHION INITIATIVE LAUNCHES WITH DESIGNER CATWALK As part of a new initiative to regenerate the local fashion, clothing and textiles landscape, the Leeds Fashion Initiative (LFI) was officially launched during an exclusive event at Leeds City Museum last month. Guests gathered to celebrate the launch and listened to speeches by the leader of Leeds City Council, Councillor Judith Blake; Ishwari Thopte, representative of London College of Fashion’s Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE); and the retail director of Leeds indie Lambert’s Yard, Adam Jagger. Also on the night, leading fashion brands such as Agi & Sam, Rejina Pyo and Christopher Raeburn provided key looks for a fashion show. 02/ SUPERSIZE BIRKIN Restoration experts The Handbag Clinic have created a supersized version of the iconic Hermés Birkin bag to celebrate the opening of the company’s new Newcastle store. It took two weeks to make the 6ft by 5ft Birkin replica in shocking pink, which has been stopping shoppers on Northumberland Street in their tracks. The huge replica of the bag, which was launched in 1984 and named after actress Jane Birkin, has been created using vinyl rather than leather and features a clasp and handles faithful to the original design. 01/

03/ OFFICIAL OPENING OF JOHNSTONS STORE Scottish cashmere brand Johnstons of Elgin opened its first flagship store on New Bond Street last month. Set over five levels, the circa 230 sq m store houses retail space on the ground and basement levels with dedicated wholesale and showroom areas on the upper levels. Designed by consultancy Checkland Kindleysides, the flagship aims to reflect the core values and family heritage of the brand while paying homage to its Scottish roots with luxurious textiles and fine craftsmanship. 04/ FAMILY FORTUNES AT FOOTWEAR AWARDS Family footwear firm Gardiner Bros will have divided loyalties at this season’s Footwear Industry Awards as three of its employees – and family members – compete for the same award. Having all been nominated for the Personality of the Year award, buying director Ben Gardiner (pictured), his father Jolyon Gardiner and uncle Peter Gardiner will battle it out on the night for the coveted accolade, which last year was scooped by Gabor sales manager Ross Pickbourne. The trio will also be rooting for their Cotswold, The Flexx and Riva labels, which have all been nominated for Ladies’ Brand of the Year. The awards ceremony takes place on Sunday 21 February at Birmingham’s National Conference Centre (formerly the Motorcycle Museum). 02/

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Alice Wint

SINCE 1957 General Enquiries 01392 876390 l Customer Service 0800 294 3373 JosephRibkoff.com

Autumn/Winter 2017 SIZE RANGE: 8-30 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO — The Gallery - Dusseldorf 27 Jan - 2 Feb 2016 Fashion House 1 2nd Floor, Room 247 – 251 CIFF - Copenhagen 3 Feb - 7 Feb 2016 Bella Centre Stand B3 – 241 Pure Exhibition - Olympia 14 Feb - 16 Feb 2016 Stand No M88 London Showroom also open Saturday 13th and Sunday 14th Feb 2016 Weekend of Pure MODA UK - NEC Birmingham Sun 21 Feb - Tues 23 Feb 2016 Hall 20 - Stand U41, U51, U61 Dublin Showroom - Fashion City with a Special Event on Sun 28 Feb to Tues 1 March 2016

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM: Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

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Talking Point

Your views on the issues shaping the industry Reflections on the fashion cycle

JAMES LAKELAND Owner, James Lakeland The last few seasons have been a forward-thinking time for my brand and our team. We ask ourselves frequently what the customer is looking for, who our competition is and what can we do to stand out. We realised that the fast fashion element of the fashion industry means that the high street has new deliveries every two to four weeks. With that in mind, we have created a new product diary where we, too, deliver goods in different stages

Creating excitement must come as standard

SHIRLEY ALLUM is the owner of Shirley Allum Fashion and Lingerie in Shaftesbury and is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) Without a doubt, fashion and lingerie retailers can no longer be complacent that their customers will continue to shop with them. The marketplace has been transformed and so too has the consumer. I have worked in the fashion industry for 47 years and it is no longer enough to have the product the

throughout the year. Nothing is more exciting than new product. We started testing smaller, more frequent deliveries in our standalone shops, and have kept track of which garments are selling faster. We have also tracked this on our e-commerce website, and we have clear results that each shop and area sell completely different products. So that led to the creation of distinct collections and we have separated what we sell on the wholesale side from what we stock online. This has resulted in a really exciting format for the James Lakeland brand, as we are in control of where the product is placed and have built a strong brand presence in different areas of the market. Having had to evolve in these last few years I have learned that the customers who shop on the internet, in department stores and in standalone boutiques all have different requirements. For example, online trouser sales are very slow, and in standalone boutiques they are much higher. Therefore, our Monday morning meetings have transformed completely; we now discuss each area of the business and our targets for the wholesale side and our own retail stores. It has been an exciting year for us: we have opened in Belfast,

Northern Ireland and also in Oxford Street London as concessions and we have had a really positive autumn. And following the opening of our store in Wilmslow in August, we are now opening standalone shop number six in Glasgow. A lot of the growth of our brand has come from our presence on social media platforms. Like any business in the fashion industry, we have to accept that new technologies and social media are paramount to success and growth. In this highly competitive field we have to be open minded, accept change and create our own niche in the market. We have built up some great relationships with suppliers and clients, and this is key to running a business. On a personal note, it has been such a colourful journey so far. When I started my business, I was the least technological person; I had no interest in it. Now I am glued to Facebook and use Whatsapp to send pictures to clients and to receive photos of fabrics and samples. But throughout my career I have learned that if you love what you do this will be reflected in the end product. Despite the highs and lows and the difficulties and challenges, I still love Monday mornings and going to work.

customer is looking for. The growth of the online marketplace means that the customer has vast choice in the palm of their hand, so we need to offer something over and above product. Sourcing new and exciting brands with a point of difference and merchandising those products in an inspiring way must come as standard. There is no sense in carrying the same brands as the high street, or in trying to compete with those prices. Customers are increasingly price savvy and will often know when one of our brands is discounted online. It’s a reality we must face and deal with, and I believe that our customer service, point of difference and flexibility are all key aspects to our survival. Flexibility on our part requires flexibility from our suppliers and this is very much appreciated by independent retailers like us. Formidable minimum spends will often mean that we spend our budget on a forward order, which leaves no room for in-season buying. Some of our suppliers are fantastic in this respect and work closely with us to place reorders in season and satisfy our customers. Joseph Ribkoff will always give us the option to swap stock that isn’t working in the first few weeks of delivery, which

we really appreciate. The result is a strong brand following at our shop and retention of sales which might otherwise go online. I love this industry and its continual cycle of evolution. I find that our customers have become far less predictable in their buying choices and this presents challenges in backing ‘bestsellers’ for the season ahead. The availability of product at such a fast pace and the power of the high street has inspired customers to try new trends and styles far more readily than they used to. Many of our 50+ customers have been encouraged to come out of their comfort zone in terms of what they wear and will dress far younger than those 15 years ago might have done. Gerry Weber now serves a far wider age demographic for us than it used to and NYDJ continues to find new fans amongst our customers, who range across the board. One of the most satisfying aspects of this career is seeing customers leave the shop having had a positive shopping experience. It’s what sets us apart and keeps them coming back. Fashion retail is challenging but I love it: it’s in my blood and I wouldn’t dream of doing anything else. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

Autumn Winter Collection 2016 MODA UK Feb 21st - Feb 23rd 2016 Stand T31

www.michaelalouisa.com

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New Year’s

resolutions The start of a new year is not just the time to launch health kicks and ditch bad habits, but it’s also a time to reflect on the year that was and set new targets for the 12 months ahead. WWB quizzed agents, brands and retailers about their business new year’s resolutions and their goals for 2016.

“In 2015 the biggest challenge for us was coming off a banner year and managing to continue our growth pattern while keeping our costumers excited about our brand and product. This can be considered a challenge and an accomplishment in today’s industry. We’re therefore entering 2016 with an aim to continue improving our product and giving first-class customer service satisfaction. Simple as that.” John Ferraro, CEO, Joseph Ribkoff

“Last year our business grew sales by 20 per cent, which was great. However, with the growth we experienced over the past few years the biggest challenge was recruiting and creating new management roles and replacing leavers. As we moved into our fourth year some of the original team naturally moved on. Topped with that, myself and Steph [wife and co-owner] had a baby, moved house and both our northern and southern showrooms! So for 2016 our resolution is to increase sales by another 20 per cent whilst not moving house or our two businesses premises – though yes to another baby (not just yet but watch this space!).” Juls Dawson, co-owner, Just Consultancy

“2015 has been the year when our brand has well and truly made a stand and has turned itself around from what was once a very classic and ‘Germanic’ look to a very stylish, ageless, yet sophisticated handwriting. The challenges we faced in the UK were, on the one hand, that we had to convince our existing customers that they needed to buy our range differently and, on the other hand, convincing new customers that they should be comfortable stocking our brand, as the product spoke for itself rather than the ‘old’ reputation. We will continue working hard to raise brand awareness and will endeavour to give all our customers as much support as possible in promoting the brand in their shop. We have a loyal and longstanding customer base and we feel we really need to do our utmost to complement their efforts and help them achieve the best margin possible and the highest sell-through possible.” Cristina Kehoe, general manager, Steilmann UK

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“Last year we expanded into a lifestyle store instead of mainly fashion; our portfolio of products now also consists of children’s gifts and pet accessories, but it was important to us to do this in a style that’s in keeping with the Amelia’s Attic brand. In 2016 it will be our 10-year anniversary and we are stronger than ever! We will be looking to expand on the success of the lifestyle offer and to create a new and exciting jewellery range bespoke to Amelia’s Attic. Our buying has now expanded globally and this year we are heading to Bangkok to source exciting new stock to add to our portfolio of brands and products.” Francesca Hull, co-owner, Amelia’s Attic, Salcombe

“High Street discounting was one of the biggest challenges we have faced as a brand last year. This was less of a problem for the spring/summer season, but with Black Friday and all the other discount periods, the autumn/winter season is now very short and increasingly warm weatherwise. My business resolution for 2016 is to support our customers to stay at full margin for as long as possible and to encourage a rethink on our ‘seasons’ and what we deliver when.” Thomas Herter, head of distribution, Marc Cain “The weather has been a real challenge for any fashion retailer: cold and rainy into the ‘summer’ season (so tricky when you get bikinis delivered in February!), and then mild right through December, so sales of knitwear and coats have been tricky over the past few weeks. My business resolution for 2016 is to look more at transseasonal styles, jersey layering pieces and lighter weight jackets for our autumn/winter buy, plus adding plenty of accessories for the next Christmas season to really make the most of gift sales.” Jen Garrity, owner, Coco Marie, Amersham

“In 2015 the biggest challenge was growing the business profitably with our existing customers, supporting them, and adding quality new customers and companies to our brand portfolio. My new year’s resolution for the business is to work ‘smarter’, engage with our customers more, and to take advantage of every profitable opportunity.” Howard Ross, owner, Retail Brand Connection

“Last year, juggling our newly launched transactional website alongside the day to day stock holding in store proved our biggest challenge. Now we’re over that learning curve, my main goals for 2016 will be to grow our online sales, discover new brands, travel, expand my own label collection, find time to redecorate the store – and fix the shelves in my office!” Pamela Shiffer, owner, Pamela Shiffer, London

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Ian Bergin has headed up the design direction of Barbour’s menswear for the past five years. For a/w 16 he and his design team are turning their attention to a relaunch of the women’s heritage collection, before a new head of womenswear takes over. Tom Bottomley finds out what to expect.

Tom Bottomley: Have you designed womenswear before? Ian Bergin: I’ve been involved with lots of womenswear lines in the past. And our menswear design team has a range of characters within it that have all had womenswear experience too. In terms of designing a ‘heritage’ range for women, the team is well qualified to do that. For the past few seasons we haven’t really approached the women’s heritage market, as I think we’ve been trying to find our direction there. The new heritage range for a/w 16, which we’ve called ‘Timeless Originals’, hopefully tackles that. TB: Is it the first time you’ve actually headed up a womenswear collection? IB: Well, we’ve been asked to do a caretaker’s role really. We’ve recruited a new head of womenswear, Paget Billingsley, to revitalise and drive the business forward. She only started with us recently, so her first real full collection will be for a/w 17. In the meantime, I was asked to look at the women’s heritage offer with a fresh pair of eyes, and design it from scratch for a/w 16 and for s/s 17, and then we’ll hand it back. TB: So how have you approached the womenswear line? IB: Well it’s about looking at what the customers want from the brand, from a wholesale point of view, as well in terms of the end consumer. We’ve also looked at what brands those customers buy, the likes of Folk, Acne Studios and A.P.C. and then we’ve tried to link that in with what we felt were the types of products that fit in with those, without trying to be them. It’s about effortlessness and simplicity. There has to be an easiness about it; it’s very pared down. So lot of our womenswear is about the fit and detailing to shape the garments. We’ve taken all the suppression out of the garments and made them really quite simple pieces. We looked at our jackets, such as the ‘Bedale’ and ‘Border’, and we’ve played with the lengths of them – from short to long. We’ve made them look feminine, so they fit on the shoulder, for instance. IAN BERGIN DIRECTOR OF MENSWEAR, BARBOUR

TB: Is the new line still instantly recognisable as Barbour? IB: Of course, as we’ve kept key components like the chunky zip, and the 8-wale cord collar with the rivet through.

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The female customer still wants to buy a waterproof, warm coat that feels rugged and what she needs for the winter, but she wants it to fit in her wardrobe in an appropriate way. We’ve really considered that. It also needs to be right for us as a brand and what is expected from us product-wise, because if you have to explain something too much to a customer you’ve lost them straight away. If you try to give them too many messages they will just turn off, hence the simplifying of our offer. The ancient tartan on the lining, and the colours within that, are also consistent throughout the new ‘Timeless Originals’ women’s collection.

brand, even in other product categories. Without going down a cul-de-sac of trying to make everything look like the jackets in some way, it just needs to be a good fit with those jackets. We’re quite a commercial company too, because we’ve always been about providing value for people. It’s not exclusive, it’s inclusive as a business. There needs to be enough of a range with the right quality, but it also needs to be so people can buy into it at the right price levels. We know our place in the market, but with three Royal warrants on the label we have to have a certain standard. We’re careful how we make things and where we make them.

TB: What about for the women’s side of the Barbour International offer? IB: In 2015 we took a new direction with Barbour International womenswear, with a focus on the total look – a wardrobe of clothes in new fabrics including dresses, skirts, trousers, shirts, footwear and accessories, alongside the iconic biker style jackets. That has carried through to s/s 16, and now a/w 16.

TB: Is knitwear now another key area? IB: Yes, that would be our biggest area outside of the outerwear. We’re now doing weatherproof knitwear too, which is Teflon coated with C6 technology so it’s a bit more environmentally friendly. As a brand, that kind of weatherproof element is our point of difference. We can build a whole portfolio of products, but a lot of them dovetail into that kind of rugged weatherproof side. That’s important for us. There’s a certain design simplicity about Barbour. It has that quite nice ruggedness about it. It comes from our industrial past really: mining, shipbuilding, fishing, coastal work and so on.

TB: What changes have you implemented since you joined Barbour five years ago? IB: One of the key reasons why I was originally brought in was to build a brand from the outerwear. The clothing that was being produced at the time wasn’t really at the standard that it needed to be. Then it was about properly segmenting the line in terms of who we were actually selling to. We wanted to broaden the appeal of the brand, so we could sell all year around and around the world, and more than just outerwear for men and women. TB: How did you go about making those changes? IB: Although the range has got bigger, what I’ve tried to do is simplify things a bit. It was about looking at what Barbour stands for, because it has a certain DNA. Waxing, quilting, corduroy, tartan, an angled pocket on the International jacket, hand-warmer pockets on the country jackets – all key components of what the brand is about. So it was about building the range out from that and making sure everything we do looks and feels like it’s Barbour. It needs to fit with the

TB: Are accessories another growth area for the brand? IB: Accessories now represent about 10 per cent of our sales, and that is certainly an area we are seeing strong growth in. Most of the accessories sales are unisex, like the bags and scarves. TB: Are there any plans to introduce some more technical pieces to the Barbour offer? IB: That’s something that is quite close to our hearts in the design team. We have had a reasonable amount of success with doing some seam-sealed and very simple, almost skeletal versions of our jackets in waterproof fabrics. In terms of ‘waterproof breathables’ in general, we see that as a real opportunity for Barbour. It’s a good fit for us, and we’re really looking into developing that concept and how we can gain traction in that area of the market.

Homme & Preview 23 — 25 Jan. 2016

Don't miss discovering our 150 international women designer brands at Tranoï Preview register.tranoi.com

ALSO LAUNCHING

Tranoï Parfums A new speciality trade show dedicated to perfumes and fragrance at Cité de la Mode et du Design.

Next shows: New York 21—23 Feb. 2016 / Femme 4—7 Mar. 2016

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#FALLINLOVE2016 Innovative shirt and blouse specialist Milano Italy has been hailed by trade media and industry professionals for its ‘one-piece performance’, an exciting new and refined concept which has led to an extraordinary uptake of new business throughout Europe. Milano’s first season under F.O.S Fashion Marketing proved nothing short of sensational.

“We were very aware of the extraordinary uptake of new business Milano had enjoyed across Europe over the previous 18 months, especially at the Berlin Panorama trade fair, and we’re hoping for a good solid start for our first season s/s 16. What we experienced was nothing short of sensational,” explains Chris Foster-Orr of F.O.S Fashion Marketing. “To open just shy of 50 new accounts in our first season is some going, but that’s just what we did, I promise you. There was a real clamour to buy the brand in our show room; it was manic at times, but hugely exciting,” he continues.

“I have to give special mention to the price structure of the brand,” enthuses Foster-Orr. “The price to quality has to be seen to be believed. The collection is sold in Euros and so for the UK, with the very favourable exchange rates, the product is a steal! The average cost price for s/s 15 was ¤27.22, which at a 1.4 exchange rate means the average price was £19.44. The potential to achieve a huge margin is therefore fantastic. The a/w 16 collection will be priced at the same level and of course will offer the same benefits. How can anyone not fall in love with that?”

According to Foster-Orr, the brand is special for many reasons, not least the following: • A trend orientated approach, creating new shapes for shirts/blouses • Beautiful and commercial prints with feminine silhouettes • Perfect fit and product know-how from a product specialist • Price point: a luxurious brand without the luxury hangtag • The spirit, passion, expertise and soul of the Milano company • A belief in one-piece performance from a single product brand

Selling dates: 20 January – 4 March 2016 Contact for UK/Ireland: Chris Foster-Orr or Aimee Brown 020 7636 7111 Showroom: FOS Fashion Marketing 4th Floor Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF info@fosfashion.co.uk www.milano-italy.com www.fosfashion.co.uk

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Style File

The hottest brands not to miss this month q BEST FOOT FORWARD US footwear label Red Wing is relaunching its women’s line for a/w 16, inspired by the rich heritage of the company, which was founded in 1905 and was one of the pioneering footwear brands for women back in the 1920s. Having not produced a specific women’s line for many years, the collection is now being resurrected by Allison Gettings, who is the fourth generation of her family to work for the Red Wing Shoe company. Combining the finest leathers and quality materials with uncompromising craftsmanship, Red Wing’s collection builds on the legacy of US-made excellence and the promise that the boots built tomorrow are as enduring as those built one hundred years ago.

t NEW KID ON THE BLOCK Launching this January, new lingerie brand Beija Flor’s philosophy is that style should not be dictated by size and that one style does not fit all. The collection is therefore divided into nine trend-led mini lines, each with three different bra styles to suit everyone from AA to G cup. Design details include folded fabric on thongs and knickers for luxury and minimum VPL, wide thong waistbands for comfort and the ‘Limbo’ string G-string that can be adjusted for the perfect fit.

BE MY VALENTINE Lingerie brand Tallulah Love has launched a gift set just in time for Valentine’s Day. Presented in an iconic heart-shaped box, the Hummingbird Gift Set includes a pale grey knicker, finished with embroidery and a delicate contrasting coral ribbon, and a duck-egg knicker adorned with a hummingbird. The perfect gift, for a perfect derriere.

t LUXURY BASICS FROM DOWN UNDER Australian label Vic and Bert is the creation of British-born designer Melanie Vincent and encompasses the simplicity, style and outdoor living aspects of life down under. The brand focuses on high quality luxury basics, including knitwear and tops for every occasion. The s/s 16 collection is centred around a subtle hint of 70s, with lace front jumpers, flared sleeves and utility inspired detailing key.

u ON THE RUN High-performance running and apparel brand Saucony launches its first premium collection this season. The ‘Life on the Run’ capsule collection is designed for runners to achieve their best and look the part on and off the track. Premium fabrics and quality details mix with innovative technical features, including clever silhouettes and herringbone prints, lightweight thermal constructions and high-vis detailing.

PHIL DAY PARTNERSHIP LTD INVITES YOU TO THE PRESENTATION OF THE ALEMBIKA COLLECTION FOR AUTUMN / WINTER 2016

Showing at: Gilmoora House, 57-61 Mortimer Street, London W1W 8HS Monday 8th - Friday 26th February by appointment only We are also open all through Pure weekend from Saturday 13th - Tuesday 16th February Please contact Michelle for an appointment Phil Day Partnership Ltd, P.O.BOX 22, Oldham, OL3 6YW Tel: 0161 228 0573 / 07968-582690 Email: michelle@philday.net Agent Ireland: Trevor Lavery Contact: Jo-Ann McShane JV Collections Tel: 07918690597 Email: jvcollections@btconnect.com Showing February - March in Belfast & Dublin Showrooms

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Peak Performance In its fourth season with fashion agency Partners in Fashion, German knitwear brand Rabe continues to go from strength to strength, with a/w 16 set to further cement its lead with commercial and wearable collections that sell.

It has never been more important to offer the right product at the right time, and German brand Rabe delivers on this promise. A market leader in knitwear and tops in contemporary classic styling, the brand prides itself on supplying fashion looks that are in tune with the seasons and can be worn straight away, with superb wearability and high quality fibres, many of which have been patented and are exclusive to Rabe. The brand has proven to be a popular choice amongst reputable independents, with around 100 doors in mainland UK, including such heavyweights as Elizabeth Rose in Tenterden, The Lodge in Wales, Helen Winterson in Marple, Something Different in Stone, 101 Boutique in Thornhill, as well as Ravens in Southend-on-Sea. Having been represented in the UK by London agency Partners in Fashion, the brand’s popularity and customer base continues to grow, not least thanks to its commercial and versatile ranges and accessible price points with RRPs ranging between £49 to £129 with a very respectable margin of 2.95. Rabe’s international success is based on a profitable product, with healthy margins and a comprehensive stock analysis package which helps to keep mark-downs low.

Customer service is paramount, with the brand working closely with its retail customers throughout the selling season, keeping regular contact and offering support at the POS with stock offers and after sales service packages that are tailored to each customer. It is no surprise then that Rabe continues to go from strength to strength, with a growing number of stockists and excellent results, which are building the foundations for further expansion. For a/w 16 Rabe offers formal as well as easy-going styles with exciting new details and embellishments. Lightweight knitwear is key, with feminine cardigans, capes, ponchos and twin sets among the product highlights. The colour palette is centred around lighter, more subtle shades, with delicate pastels in combination with taupe, silver, violet, zinc-silver, white and grey among the dominant shades, while hues of navy, aquamarine and jade also feature. Having already received repeat orders and great feedback from its first s/s 16 drops, the outlook for a/w 16 is more than positive, with Rabe set to continue its success story with collections that are in tune with the market and simply make good business sense.

Showing Dates: Collection 1: 12 January to 3 February 2016 Collection 2: 3 February to 4 March 2016

Partners in Fashion, 16a Newman Street, London W1T 1PB Contact: 0207 636 4207 Email: sales@partnersinfashion.co.uk www.partnersinfashion.com

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Fashion Radar

MKT A super feminine and casual collection, French brand MKT is fast establishing itself in the UK market as the go-to brand for effortless cool. Hailing from Paris, MKT Studio (My Knot Tie) draws inspiration from the history of pop culture and from music and film icons of the 70s, 80s, 90s and beyond, such as Patti Smith, Debbie Harry, Mia Farrow, Courtney Love and Kate Moss. The brand aims to produce collections that go beyond trends, offering silhouettes with an edgy, offbeat attitude. Casual looks dominate the range, with cool shirts, chinos, denim, skirts and outerwear a must. MKT offers two collections a year, with wholesale prices starting from £12 for a top and £20 for trousers to £60 for a jacket. The brand’s chinos, which are available in 16 colours, are among its bestsellers. Already being sold through a network of selective multi-brand retailers across France and various export markets, MKT launched to the UK two seasons ago through Level One agency and is quickly establishing a loyal following amongst retailers and consumers alike.

Moda, NEC Stand T11 FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522 FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518 E.MAIL. info@mascaracollection.com WEB. www.mascaracollection.com Copyright © 2014 - 2017 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2013. All rights reserved

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Get Knitted Transitional knitwear in a neutral colour palette provides the perfect compromise for the months between seasons. WWB picks the best knitted jumpers available to order in-store now. 04/

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01/ KIREI £52 0207 221 6663 • 02/ SECOND FEMALE £46 07970 486112 • 03/ GUDRUN & GUDRUN price on request 0045 2961 7077 04/ POPPY LUX £12.15 0203 397 5180 • 05/ SECOND FEMALE £37 07970 486112 • 06/ OBEY £26 01202 699620 07/ DARLING £65 0207 636 6868 • 08/ ANIMAL price on request 0845 026 7267 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

Joan Lee Accessories

We are looking for Experienced Sales Agents to cover parts of England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales. www.joanlee.co.uk Email: joanleewholesale@btconnect.com Phone: Joan 0161 456 2211 or 07866 800 561

...simply stylish

UK SHOWING DATES - Autumn/Winter 2016 LONDON SEASONAL SHOWROOM Grange Fitzrovia Hotel, THE PORTLAND SUITE, 20 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 28 Bolsover Street, London W1W 6NB Programme 1: January 18th to February 5th. Programme 2: February 13th to February 26th Contact: Cristina Kehoe/Lisa Williams Tel. 0207 291 0522 Email: info@steilmann.co.uk

INDX Womenswear Show, Cranmore Park, Solihull – from February 10th to 12th ALSO SHOWING IN: Manchester – P1: January 10th – 15th; P2: February 10th – 12th – please contact Lisa Williams on 07932 082181 The Midlands – please contact Debbie Castleman Agencies on 01530 622966 Glasgow – P1: January 23rd to February 12th – please contact Sue Cameron on 07966 622332 The South and North-East – please contact Chris Herbert on 07990 570076

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Dutch Courage Dutch brand Tramontana is undergoing a relaunch for a/w 16 which aims to strengthen its position in the market and create the foundations for international expansion and sales growth. Rebecca Jackson popped over to the brand’s headquarters in Amsterdam and caught up with the team driving the transition to get the lowdown.

Tramontana’s Amsterdam headquarters are nothing short of impressive; all glossy surfaces, sleek design and minimal fittings which help reinforce the image of an on-trend fashion brand. However, this is only the beginning, as marketing manager Cécile van Maasakkers points out when she warmly welcomes WWB, with the showroom soon to receive a further technology update with the installation of video screens that will stream collection presentations and promotional films. It’s the culmination of many brand updates Tramontana has been undergoing recently, and sets the scene for a subtle but ambitious relaunch of the brand. The most obvious change is in the brand’s a/w 16 collection, to be officially unveiled this month, which will carry a new look embodied by a fresh concept and ethos, embracing a more feminine signature. Still aimed at modern women who are confident in their style, typically aged between 30 and 50, the aim is not to attract a different customer, but to strengthen the brand’s

relationship with its existing consumers and with that its presence in the market and distinction from its competitors. CEO Rob Elmers, who has been with the brand since it was established in 1985, is leading the strategic changes and the creative team implementing them. He explains the reason behind Tramontana’s transition and why the time is right for a relaunch: “There are several reasons why we are rebranding now. Firstly, it’s about the growth of the company, it’s the start of a new phase for us. The company is growing in all areas, and the rebranding is the signal to the world that we are entering a new phase as a brand,” he says. “Growth in personnel, in sales, in markets; growth of the collection, of the brand and of software and our online area. It is a logical consequence of the organic development of the company and the brand. Our rebranding stands for a clear mission and vision of the future, a clear positioning, with a collection that has its own signature and consistent communication with a new look,” he

adds, revealing that the company’s number of employees has almost doubled from 18 to 32 in just under three years, a necessity but also an advantage to facilitate the rapid evolution of the brand. “Establishing a brand always begins from the inside out; in other words, the personnel. This growth brings in new visions and ways of thinking, allowing a brand to grow, which also leads to the need for a fresh perspective on positioning,” he explains. Tramontana’s ambitions are clear: to become a well-known international lifestyle brand with an authentic character. Double digit growth is a key goal. “Tramontana has been performing excellently, especially considering the market conditions of the previous years. In 2014 our turnover grew by 25 per cent, and last year by 10 per cent. In 2016 we strive for 25 per cent again, and we think this is achievable, despite challenging market conditions,” he says. Elmers sees Tramontana positioned in the trend-led mid-market segment, with brand

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“IT IS A GENERAL TREND THESE DAYS THAT PEOPLE GROW OLDER IN A MORE YOUTHFUL WAY. THEREFORE THEY ALSO WANT TO BE ADDRESSED ON THAT SAME LEVEL. OUR COLLECTION HAS BECOME MORE FASHIONABLE AND YOUNGER – NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH YOUNG.”

adjacencies including Comma, Esprit, Oui, Expresso, Taifun and Summum. Exclusive prints and attention to detail sum up the identity of the range, which has dresses as its core USP. The brand prides itself on flattering fits and an “honest” price/quality ratio, as Elmers defines it. The relaunch aspect comes into play with the a/w 16 collection, which builds on all these core principles but also presents a more feminine appearance, featuring finer and lighter-weight materials than previously, and a more fine-tuned approach to styling. There are fewer heavy knits with an emphasis instead on finer, more versatile gauges and detailing. Fringing, for instance, appears only subtly on garments, instead of all over as in previous seasons. The collection is split into four categories: Bohemian, Preppy Tough, Rock Muse and Classy Mod. Neutral colours mix with statement materials and patterns, and come together on the same piece to create sophisticated combinations and plays of textures. Items are versatile, catering for multiple occasions from casual to eveningwear – just as before the relaunch, but now more polished and focused. “We haven’t changed our target group; they [the customers] themselves have changed,” says Elmers. “It is a general trend these days that people grow older in a more youthful way. Therefore they also want to be addressed on that same level. Our collection has become more fashionable and younger – however, not to be confused with young! The collection is on-trend, but we will never be trendsetting because that doesn’t fit our target group,” he clarifies. Ann von Mansfeldt, senior designer for the European market, joined the company in January last year, coming on-board at a crucial stage for the brand. “The company has changed so much in such a short space of time. Since I joined on the design side the collection has adopted a new look and we had to ensure it met the new image for the brand. We had a very clear assignment with this rebranding – to bring Tramontana to the next level. Since Tramontana was already known for ‘perfect fit’ and value for money, the ‘next level’ had to come from creating a more internationally orientated and coordinated collection with its own unique and feminine handwriting, where the emphasis lies on the ability to combine pieces throughout the collection. We also improved our price structure and brought more diversity in qualities partly due to new, European suppliers. All this of course without losing any of the strengths we were already well known for, like our dresses and prints. A great challenge which we were very excited to take on,” she explains. A new slogan ‘Your Fashion Compliment’ and fresh, streamlined branding, which includes a

much lighter, feminine Corbel typeface, reinforce the changes in the design direction. In addition, one key collection colour will feature on POS material per season, creating subtle coordination. With the collection, branding and positioning now on target, Tramontana plans to turn its attention to international expansion. Currently selling to 13 countries and serving over 900 customers, the brand’s core markets are the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany, as well as more recently France and Canada, with territories such as Sweden, Norway and Poland the next geographical objective – not forgetting the UK, which has also been identified as a growth area with significant potential. “We do have ambitions to grow in the UK, as we feel we are very well suited to the market and the way women dress there,” says Elmers. This is echoed by Chris Foster-Orr, owner of FOS Fashion Marketing, which has been the sole agent for the brand since July 2012. Foster-Orr says that the brand has been growing organically, with customers complimenting the good sellthroughs, commercial appeal and affordable price-points. “Since we launched Tramontana to the UK, we have been building the brand steadily and currently have around 50 accounts, but there is a lot more potential. I can see it sitting nicely in at least double that. I think 100 accounts would be a nice and achievable target for the next few seasons, which would extend the exposure of the brand without over-saturating the market,” he says. “The relaunch of the brand coincides with us being ready to take it to that next level, as our customers recognise the brand more and it has proven itself as a solid performer with a 3.0 margin and genuine value for money. Most importantly, it’s a product that sells,” he adds. It looks like 2016 is set to be a big year for Tramontana, and the excitement about the new direction and ambitious goals is palpable during WWB’s Amsterdam trip. And you can’t blame the team, who have been working hard on tweaking and fine-tuning every element of Tramontana’s brand proposition – which is why CEO Elmers looks ahead with an optimistic outlook. “The market in which Tramontana is operating is good. We believe the worst of the financial crisis is behind us because that is also what we hear from our customers. It offers enough potential for us, especially abroad as we still have countries to conquer,” he says. “By sailing our own course we believe we stay authentic and therefore appeal to our target group. Consumers know these days when you are just there to take their money or if you really want to offer them something extra. We are passionate about what we do, and it’s our mission to assure women of compliments. Then we’ll know we are doing a good job.”

Jacket £29

Trouser £22 Average Dress Price £18

www.carolccollections.com 0800 612 9009 MODA S40 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; PURE K114

£21

£29

£24.50

£29

www.carolccollections.com 0800 612 9009 £24.50

MODA S40 – PURE K116

www.carolccollections.com 0800 612 9009 MODA S40

BITTE KAI RAND & Co. was founded in 1981, and is with its rich history and innovative projects, one of the strongest and leading fashion houses in Denmark. With her design team Bitte Kai Rand releases 4 collections yearly, known for her graphic prints and exciting lines always with a twist in cuts and details. The design is pure, timeless and clean with an advanced edge, playing with contrasts which have a high degree of functionality and a focus on quality. Today Bitte Kai Rand has showrooms in Denmark, Finland, The Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, Germany, United Kingdom, Ireland, Northern Ireland, Belgium, Poland and USA.

We will be showing at Scoop: Saatchi Gallery, London 31st January - 2nd February 2016

AW16 Selling dates:

15th January - 28th February 2016

Contact Details: Rachel Wiles UK & Ireland country manager Tel: 07463 645670 Susie Carey Northern sales representative Tel: 07802 831760 Michele McMath Ireland & Northern Ireland agent Tel: 07760 421185

Email: england@bittekairand.com www.bittekairand.com

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edit autumn The

/winter 16 MUNTHE

WWB’s comprehensive guide to the season and the looks, trends, brands and news not to miss.

COUNTDOWN TO A/W …60 YOUNG FASHION …76 SCOOP PREVIEW …94 FIRST GLANCE AT MODA …103 uuu

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A/W 16

Countdown WWB’s top 30 rundown of the trends, the brands and the news that will define the season ahead.

SINGING IN THE RAIN

ATELIER GARDEUR Clean lines and minimalist looks dominated at Atelier Gardeur for a/w 16. From skinny jeans through casual loose trousers to elegant tailored cotton styles, the brand is embracing a contemporary direction.

A rain mac is an essential item during autumn/winter, with a number of brands offering a variety of styles to brighten up wet weather. Joules’ signature rainwear continues to go from strength to strength, with characteristic stripy versions making an appearance this season. Braintree is also embracing the trend for prints, with its Macintyre jacket a sure-fire style hit for rainy days.

JOULES

MONARI This season Monari is showing a total of nine themes, focusing on ‘ready-to-wear’ in its literal sense, meaning that early a/w programmes still show summery characteristics in order to be in line with real sales and delivery patterns. Cashmere, pure or blended, is at the heart of the later deliveries, while cape jumpers and coatigans are among the product highlights.

BRAINTREE

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CINQUE

26 MARC AUREL

27 RIANI

COMMA MAC

Icy hues inform key aspects in Rianiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection this season, with silver and titan greys mixed with jade greens and pagoda blue dominating the colour palette. Textures of faux fur and wool are juxtaposed against sharp tailoring, while boho influences such as zig-zag printed tunics also feature. The goal is to deliver wardrobe essentials that are versatile enough for every occasion.

TREND WATCH: THE TRENCH COAT Trench coats are making a comeback for a/w 16, providing a welcome alternative to the sportier parkas and coats of previous seasons. Military influences are evident, with doublebreasted front button styles, wide lapels, storm flaps and button-up pockets featuring heavily. More pared-down styles create a cleaner look, with impeccable tailoring at the forefront. The hottest trends are below the knee styles, though shorter above the knee versions also make for an elegant and wearable look.

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NEW BOHO

7 SEASONS

Launching through Partners in Fashion this season is Berlin brand 7 Seasons, a dynamic outerwear collection. The range comprises around 50 pieces, including signature coats and jackets that are made with careful attention to detail as well as creative design and functionality. An offshoot of the Umlauf & Klein Group, retail prices range from £129 to £189. A modern and wintery take on bohemian looks is one of the strongest elements within the range.

24 LIMITED BY RONEN CHEN Limited by Ronen Chen is the catwalk collection by the eponymous Israeli designer, with a more design-led direction than its main ready-to-wear collection. The slightly higher price points are justified by the emphasis on high quality fabrics and a more dramatic styling, which reflects the designer’s love of architecture. This is especially true for the a/w 16 collection, which is built on linear silhouettes and clean styling, with the colour palette dominated by black, white and metallic hues. Dresses, structured tops and masculine trousers are once again a key focus of the impeccably tailored range.

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TREND

23 MARC AUREL

CINQUE

RIANI

Trend: Fur Fur – faux or real – is once again stepping into the seasonal spotlight. Classic jackets sit alongside more trend-led gilets, with colour and print injections making for eye-catching style statements. Wear with 70s inspired flares for a modern retro look, or team with dresses to create a playful mix of textures. COMMA

LUISA CERANO

LONDON CALLING SCOOP 31 JANUARY – 2 FEBRUARY

JOULES

SCOOP LONDON 21 – 23 FEBRUARY The beautiful Saatchi Gallery in the heart of Chelsea once again plays host to not just one, but two Scoop editions, with the return of Scoop’s sister show Scoop London, which was successfully launched last season. Each show offers a completely different spectrum of brands, however with a shared focus on exclusive labels, most of which cannot be seen anywhere else. Brands such as Humanoid, Three Dots, Quiet Clothing, Dom Goor, Cluse Watches and many more make their debut at Scoop this season, while porcelain jewellery brand Nach Bijoux, US designer Erin Fetherston and Maison Baluchon from Paris will debut at Scoop London, along with exciting shoe collections from Lucy Choi and Ming Ray.

A relaxed vibe runs through Joules’ a/w 16 collection, staying true to the brand’s quirky and individual looks. Breton stripes feature prominently among the styles, while tweed blazers provide a smart casual alternative to the brand’s signature macs and raincoats. Hues are dusky and muted but have enough vibrant colour pops to create interest, while floral prints round off the range.

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20 t

STEILMANN A luxurious feel runs through the collection at Steilmann, with a focus on clean, sophisticated lines. All key trends of the season have been referenced in the collection, but in a way that is wearable and will appeal to a multitude of women of all ages. Look out for poncho knits, sports luxe influences and boho inspired styles as well as more classic and elegant blazers, dresses and knits.

19 MODERN RETRO

MAC

This season, look out for a modern slant on retro influences, which are referenced in many collections. Mac has taken inspiration from 70s styling and brought culottes back into modern-day dressing. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a play of proportions and contrasts, but clean lines and washes ensure that the look remains relevant and wearable for the contemporary consumer, creating an appealing alternative to the slim cuts that also feature in the rest of the collection.

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SENSUAL SOPHISTICATION ROSEMUNDE Danish brand Rosemunde is offering a luxurious and lavish collection which juxtaposes textures and fabrics for a decadent effect. Velvets, leathers, rich brocade, jacquards, wool, mohair and cashmere are contrasted against weightless fabrics such as soft mesh, sophisticated lace and transparent silk. Silhouettes also reflect this sensual and sophisticated direction, with clean-cut blouses, skirts and wide-leg trousers creating a contemporary aesthetic.

ELISA CAVALETTI Highlights at Italian brand Elisa Cavaletti include the introduction of new faux fur styles, adding another dimension to the popular collection which is known for its contrasting textures and creative use of different fabrics. This season the brand continues its strong signature style but with a cleaner direction. Metallic hues such as silver, gold and copper sit alongside understated shades of rose and greens, creating a feminine and luxurious range.

J SHOES

LISA KAY

Best foot forward Ankle boots continue to be a strong footwear trend for a/w 16, available in varying heel sizes and styles. Flat, embellished boots such as those by Lisa Kay Shoes will add extra interest to an overall outfit and work best with the ever-popular skinny jeans or to give a tougher edge to dresses. Wooden block heels, meanwhile, such as those seen at J Shoes provide style and comfort and finish off winter looks perfectly. uuu

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TREND

CINQUE

YACCO MARICARD

MARC CAIN

Trend: Colour Pop

MAC

Various guises of burnt coral to dusky orange create a welcome colour explosion this season. The hue works best contrasted with dark or neutral shades such as black or cream, or juxtaposed against blood red. LUISA CERANO

MARC AUREL

MICHELE While Michele’s Magic jeans remain a bestseller, the main collection is dominated by a wealth of novelty in silhouettes and styles. Wide, draping shapes such as ‘Marlene’ styles or shorter culottes are increasingly evident, in response to popular fashion looks. Loose, pleated trousers with a straight leg convey a casual look, while the comeback of 70s flared styles continues to grow in importance. Unusual seaming details, zips and stitched pin tucks underline a sporty feminine direction.

ANONYME Inspiration at Italian brand Anonyme is drawn from the beautiful tailoring found in its native country, with international influences and feminine prints also prominent. Targeted at the 30-plus market, the collection is grouped into three diffusion lines, each available to buy separately or together and sold as bridge ranges between high-end premium and mid-range womenswear. Following the brand’s successful UK launch last year, it is set for further expansion this season and beyond.

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12 MARBLE This season at Marble, relaxed shapes and stitch detailing combine for a chic understated look. Cosy knits and luxurious yarns sit alongside chunky textures, chic slim-fitting sweaters or quality knitted jumpers that are as versatile and timeless as they are super-soft. Clean shapes, simple styling and surprising details combine for a modern take on autumn dressing. From great printed separates and day-to-evening tops, to the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s growing denim range, a/w at Marble offers versatility and references all key trends of the season.

11 TREND WATCH: PONCHO KNITS Ponchos are big news for a/w 16, and the outerwear trend has translated into knitwear, too. Cosy, practical and easy to wear, the appeal of knitted ponchos is obvious, and they are great as a trans-seasonal item for cooler autumn or warmer winter days. To give more shape to the look, tie a belt around the waist, which will instantly create a different silhouette without losing the effortlessness of the trend. Opt for thicker qualities for an outdoor option, or soft, luxurious cashmeres for indulgent and more casual weekend styling.

BRODIE CASHMERE

JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN

PASSPORT

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MARC AUREL This season Marc Aurel is giving a lesson in how to do sports luxe in winter, and how to do it well. Relaxed shapes are combined, with loose lightweight trousers teamed with equally low-key tops against ethnic inspired wool coats, making for a standout look. Metallic brogues finish off the look perfectly. Elsewhere in the collection, a mix of tactile mixtures also features, while the overall direction is effortless smart casual.

PICADILLY Monochrome is a key colour story at Picadilly this season, offset against vivid shades and prints. Tactile fabrics and materials play an important role, with luxurious knits and day-to-evening dresses among the highlights. The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strength lies in the ability to blend classic, elegant silhouettes and unique pieces that are timeless and seasonless, and therefore appeal to a wide variety of women.

FABER German knitwear brand Faber is expanding its size range this season and will now be catering from size 8 to 26 due to customer demand. The brand continues to offer a versatile range of knits and tops, with elegant greys and beige combinations taking centre stage this season alongside black and a monochrome colour palette. Look out for elegant rollneck jumpers, flattering coatigans, cardigans and knitted dresses, which all form part of the range. uuu

represented by

Showroom: 10 Middleton Place · London W1W 7TG Phone 07906 070081

SELLING DATES

Autumn / Winter Collection 2016 1st COLLECTION 12 JAN — 28 JAN 2016 2nd COLLECTION 3 FEB — 26 FEB 2016 SCOOP LONDON 31 JAN — 2 FEB 2016

www.marc-aurel.com

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7 TREND WATCH: OXBLOOD Deep shades of wine red, oxblood and burgundy offer another colour focus for the a/w season. Brands such as Comma, Mac and Turnover have all embraced the hue, with the styling either focused on tonal nuances to give a subtle head-to-toe look, or contrasted against opposing shades to make the intensity of the colour stand out. Burgundy is great if you want to stick to a moody, autumnal colour palette but offer an alternative to the conventional black and dark greys of the season.

TURNOVER

MAC

COMMA

WINTER DENIM With denim never out of fashion, brands such as JQ Jeans have experimented with different colour treatments, and the result is a collection of denim qualities that pick up the key shades of the season. Deep hues of indigo are offset against shades of petrol and jade, creating commercial and seasonal alternatives to traditional jeans styles. The brand is known for its high-quality stretch, with the latest collection once again offering an array of flattering styles for every shape.

LUISA CERANO Look out for clean, contemporary and ultraluxurious styling at Luisa Cerano. Textures play a huge part in the collection: whether thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s furs juxtaposed against leathers or silks, soft knits against decadent brocades, or thick woollen coats against lightweight fabrics, the brand excels at tactile treatments. Key trends in the range include head-to-toe tonal looks that borrow from masculine, almost androgynous styles.

5 JQ JEANS

IMAGES COLLECTION SPRING 2016

w w w. e x p r e s s o f a s h i o n . c o m

AGENCY | APT COLLECTIONS LTD. | +44 (0)20 7580 3202 | NIGEL@APTCOLLECTIONS.LTD.UK

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MODA MODA MODA MODA

WOMAN FOOTWEAR LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR ACCESSORIES

A key date on the seasonal calendar, the UK’s biggest and most comprehensive trade show Moda returns this season with another bumper edition. Covering women’s daywear, evening and occasionwear, accessories, footwear and lingerie & swimwear, as well as newly launched unisex and fast fashion sections, Moda is a seasonal must-visit. Catwalks and a high-profile line-up of industry speakers round off the event. 21-23 February NEC, Birmingham, UK 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk

2 p

JAMES LAKELAND In a new strategic move, James Lakeland has created separate collections for forward order for independent retailers to styles sold online and in concessions, offering a higher degree of individuality and exclusivity. The brand’s Made in Italy guarantee continues to be a big draw, alongside its versatile and highly wearable collections. These once again feature a high degree of dresses, luxurious knits and sumptuous outerwear, all with a nod to key trends, yet without losing the brand’s own signature.

SPOTLIGHT ON OUTERWEAR CAMEL ACTIVE Autumn/winter is the season that turns the focus on outerwear, and German brand Camel Active continues to be a key player in the sector. The most important trend for the season is centred around new parka types, while wool combinations with innovative technical materials also form an important part of the range. The brand’s trademark leather detailing is key, with highlights including feminine wool coats, sporty down parkas and military inspired anoraks.

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TACTILE TEXTURES TURNOVER Turnover provides the perfect lesson in how to do textures and layering while looking effortlessly sophisticated and stylish. Contrasting fabrics give an instant feel of decadence, with clean lines and understated colour palettes in warm neutrals. The deceptively simple but effective styling is carried by the juxtaposition of fitted shapes against loose, oversized cuts, ticking all the right boxes as this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hottest look.

www.saharalondon.com VIEW THE COLLECTION moda - stand w51 pure - stand n78 indx - birmingham Make an appointment: wholesale@saharalondon.com | T: 020 7483 8438 | London showroom by appt only: 40 Chiltern Street, London W1U 7QN

Top – Armour Lux £17.50 0161 236 9855 Skirt – Darling £17.75 020 7580 3456 Necklace – Ruby Rocks £8.68 0041 7643 22332

Sugar

& Stripes

As the seasons become less and less defined, so do trends, with signature spring colours and prints making their way into a/w 16, toughened up with oxblood, black lace and leathers.

Cardigan – Suzy D £28 020 8202 7993 Top - Armour Lux £17.50 0161 236 9855 Skirt – Suzy D £25 020 8202 7993 Necklace – stylist’s own

Jacket – Girls on Film £18 020 3617 7668 Dress – Little Mistress £28.80 020 3617 7668 Earrings – Stylist’s own

Coat – Neon Rose £26.70 0161 835 2064 Dress – Silk Threads £340 07786 708565 Boots – Lotus £28.26 01706 219 222, Necklace – Stylist’s own

Dress – Neon Rose £11.45 0161 835 2064 Gilet – Bellfield £19.50 0161 230 7312 Boots – Ravel £50 01706 212 512 Necklace – Stylist’s own

Jacket – Dranella price on request 0045 63 15 85 87 Playsuit – Bellfield £12 0161 230 7312 Necklace – Emi Jewellery £7.69 0041 7643 22332 Tights – Stylist’s own

Dress – Llunaa £55 0161 212 7590 Earrings – Stylist’s own

Jacket – £47.50 01245 280 878, Top – People Tree £19.20 020 7042 8900 Skirt – Traffic People £28.50 01245 280 878 Shoes – Stylist’s own, Brooch – Stylist’s own

Shirt – Emily and Fin £20 020 7812 9992 Dress – Girls on Film £12.80 020 3617 7668 Brogues – J Shoes £44 01858 468 123 Bag – Zatchels price on request 0116 253 9672 Tights – Stylist’s own Earrings – Stylist’s own

Coat – Llunaa £95 0161 212 7590 Dress – Girls on Film £15.20 020 3617 7668 Boots – Dolcis £16.99 01706 212 512

Wrap jacket – Neon Rose £18.40 0161 835 2064 Trousers – People Tree £28.80 020 7042 8900 Fur stole – Stylist’s own

Photographer: Chris Harvey www.iamharvey.co.uk Make-up artist: Jessica Wigley www.makeupbyjessica.co.uk Stylist: Victoria Jackson Model: Rebecca Applewood at Boss Model Management

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The

pick of

Scoop

31 JANUARY TO 2 FEBRUARY

SAATCHI GALLERY – LONDON

Boutique trade show Scoop is once again set to welcome a raft of exclusive brands, new names and established designers to the beautiful Saatchi Gallery in London. WWB caught up with the show’s founder, Karen Radley, to find out what makes her tick, what drives the success of the show and her pick of some of the many labels not to miss at this month’s edition.

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WWB: You have had a long and varied career in fashion and have worked with some iconic people. What do you love most about the industry? Karen Radley: The fashion industry is ever-changing and transient. I am a person who has to have huge challenges and in fashion you are only as good as your current collection. WWB: Apart from launching Scoop, what do you consider your most significant career milestones? KR: Running the exclusive Quorum which was a melting pot of creative design. I have always loved working with creative designers, which included Ossie Clark, Celia Birtwell, Sheridan Barnett, Betty Jackson and many others. WWB: How would you describe your personal style? KR: I love colour and I would say my personal style is eclectic. WWB: Who are your favourite designers/brands? KR: Historically, I would have loved to have worn Fortuny and Elsa Schiaparelli, the Italian fashion designer whose designs were heavily influenced by Surrealists like her collaborators Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau. Ossie Clark is still my iconic designer and I would choose from today’s fashion designers Prada, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Miu Miu and Dolce & Gabbana. WWB: And which personality from the world of fashion do you admire? KR: Miuccia Prada – her designs are fresh and her use of colour is eclectic. She famously said, “What you wear is how you present yourself to the world, especially today, when human contacts are so quick. Fashion is instant language.” WWB: How do you relax if you’re not busy working on Scoop? KR: I love to relax by walking my Cavalier King Charles spaniel, Perry. WWB: What inspires and drives you? KR: I love discovering new emerging talent and meeting inspirational people. WWB: You launched Scoop five years ago. Did you ever envisage the success the show would have? KR: No, seriously I never imagined how remarkably successful Scoop would be! Just an idea from my kitchen table has found its own legs and personality! Due to the success of Scoop, I launched Scoop London in September this year, purely due to demand. When we launched Scoop London, I was thrilled at the reaction from the UK and international buyers, and it was a great validation that the concept of the show reflects the needs of the industry. WWB: What goal drives you and the show each season? How do you keep the momentum and high standard of the show? KR: I am totally hands on with both shows. Curation of the show is key, carefully creating a stand-out buying experience for some of the biggest retailers in the industry who visit the show. The art and installations within the gallery change regularly, thus both Scoop and Scoop London will always feel quite different every time. The DNA of the shows is about where fashion, art and design meet – three of my favourite things! WWB: What is your vision for Scoop and Scoop London? KR: To create a fresh and interesting platform each season for buyers and provide a lovely working environment for all the exhibitors. WWB: You personally select and curate each of the brands showing at the Scoop shows. What in your eyes are the qualities of a good fashion brand? KR: I think what attracts me to each brand is they must have their own identity and something to say. All brands must be true to their USP. WWB: What can we expect from Scoop and Scoop London this season? KR: Both shows will as always have a wonderful line-up of designers and collections. Apart from celebrating our fifth birthday at Scoop, we will have a focus on new designer collections including Kristensen Du Nord, Mackage, Camilla Morsch and Henry Christ. Scoop London will see a very strong line up including Libertine-Libertine, Cacharel, Terry de Havilland, Lucy Choi, Feldt – a great deal of newness at both shows. I always love to present new labels to the show, as buyers are always seeking something fresh and new. Turn overleaf to see Karen Radley’s pick of some of the brands not to miss at this month’s Scoop.

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L2 L2 by Loma London is the diffusion collection of the Loma brand, but with a more casual aesthetic. Clean, understated lines with architectural shapes characterise the range, with graphic stripes, geometric vibes and often a minimal bohemian vibe taking centre stage.

SVP JEWELLERY SVP Jewellery offers hand crafted jewellery using ethically mined gemstones and recycled silver and gold to create luxury pieces that are perfect for off-duty, on-duty and after dark. Founded by designer Sarah Parham, SVP Jewellery’s focus is to be versatile and to be worn with countless possibilities.

TRANSIT Italian brand Transit is a family business with a 30-year history, and its philosophy is that “simplicity is complex”. Raw materials, soft colours and timeless design sum up the aesthetic of the popular collection.

CLUSE WATCHES Amsterdam label Cluse Watches takes inspiration from minimalist fashion and subtle colours. Interchangeable straps are the signature of the brand, providing the wearer with endless combinations which can be adjusted to every outfit.

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GESTUTZ Danish brand Gestutz bridges understated, relaxed chic and directional statement pieces. Offering a contemporary approach to tailoring and fresh take on Scandinavian simplicity, the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seasonal edit of cool, sophisticated go-to-pieces boast high quality fabrics and individual detailing.

SEVEN BOOT LANE Established in 2012, UK label Seven Boot Lane is a family run company with a commitment to style, versatility and craftsmanship. True to trends but always treading its own path, the collections have their own distinct handwriting which combines the understated with the innovative. Crafted from natural, locally sourced materials and with meticulous attention to detail, each pair of shoes is made in one of the most reputable footwear factories in Elche, Spain, guaranteeing the highest quality.

DES PETITS HAUTS French brand Des Petits Hauts offers knitwear in luxe cashmere mixed with wool, cotton and silk, as well as super soft pima cotton tees, exclusive printed silk shirts and coats made from virgin wool and faux fur. The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s aim is to bring luxury into everyday dressing. The colour palette is dramatic, with monochrome black and white sitting alongside brighter colours such as red and yellow.

CANDICE COOPER Candice Cooper is known for high-quality footwear, tailored from the finest leathers and finished by hand in selected Italian manufacturing sites. The latest collection has been created by designers Kerstin Honrath and Christopher Siegel, who have brought all their know-how, passion and aesthetic to the range, making each style unique, distinctive and impeccably crafted.

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KREISI COUTURE The word to describe Kreisi Couture is eclectic. The brand specialises in iconic and fun hats, while always remaining chic and elegant. The brainchild of designer Krisztina Reisini, Kreisi Couture is a sophisticated and multi-faceted couture line which mixes glamour with unexpected references to contemporary pop culture.

PRIMROSE PARK Easy-to-wear shapes that transcend seasons, and a focus on print and colour, characterise the signature style of Primrose Park. Designed to be mixed, matched and layered, the brand offers versatile styles that will slot seamlessly into the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life and wardrobe and will become staples.

PROJECT AJ117

DUFFY

Danish brand Project AJ117 combines the best of Scandinavian Design traditions and simplicity with Italian workmanship and finesse. Cool everyday styles are at the centre of the collections, with a focus on delicate, comfortable and luxurious fabrics that combine to create flattering and practical clothing.

Duffy is a directional cashmere range, with an ethos of effortlessness, luxury and simplicity reflected in clean silhouettes, understated colour schemes and a minimalist but beautiful aesthetic. The a/w 16 collection focuses on the art of layering, with slouchy funnel necks, sumptuous rollnecks and on-trend tunics in fine gauge cashmere to be worn under structured sleeveless coats, blanket capes and belted jackets.

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ESSENTIEL Antwerp brand Essentiel is known for refreshing, offbeat and luxurious fashion, notably its graphic and floral prints and trendy colour mixes. The brand has been gaining a considerable following in the UK and other export markets, and is stocked in high profile stores including Harvey Nichols, Bloomingdales, Printemps, Tsvetnoy, Beymen and Penelope.

PARKA LONDON Outerwear brand Parka London’s USP is centred around timeless silhouettes, carefully selected textures and evocative colour palettes. The goal is for each style to become a wardrobe staple, with styles featuring new takes on the classic parka or wool coats as well as jackets and blazers. Hand-selected luxe fabrics and faux fur, removable linings, interchangeable hoods and technical features are among the brand’s characteristics.

MUNTHE Since Munthe (previously Muntheplussimonsen) was established in 1994, the Danish brand has experienced immense growth and success. In 2014 designer and creative director Naja Munthe relaunched the brand with four annual collections, and today it is best known for its refined and elegant clothing that also combines the raw and deconstructed. Munthe’s designs are easily recognisable because of their artistic, free-spirited and contrasting characteristics; a style which is both relaxed and elegant.

ANGELA CAPUTI Jewellery designer Angela Caputi’s work is inspired by American films of the 1940s, as well as a long-standing passion for fashion. Her designs are considered both fashion and art and are recognised for their creativity and constant evolution. Geometrical and smooth lines along with complementary and nuanced use of colour sum up the range. uuu

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POM AMSTERDAM

HUMANOID

Dutch shawl company Pom Amsterdam operates on the philosophy “choose to be seen”, making a wide variety of shawls that are recognisable and stand out. The brand’s patented asymmetrical triangle shape, bold colours and materials and characteristic trimmings all sum up the range. Fine jacquards, cottons and printed cupro help each shawl in the latest collection make a fashion statement.

Dutch brand Humanoid’s collection is based on matching shades, structures and layering, creating a worn-in and washed feel. Fine cashmere, cotton, suede and leather all feature in the collection, with a/w 16 providing a nod to the 70s.

ARMOR LUXE HERITAGE

ROSE RANKIN Rose Rankin is a new premium footwear label with an emphasis on sneakers. Sleek design and subtle detailing characterise each style, with bold colour pops giving the range a distinctive edge. Designed in London and handmade in Portugal, the brand combines retro references with modern influences which culminate in luxurious footwear for every day. Look out for animal prints or metallic and bold colours, which are typical features.

Inspired by French maritime tradition and the coastline of Brittany, Armor Luxe Heritage is known for its impeccable quality and for signature styles that include pea coats, duffle coats, Breton shirts and raincoats. The brand represents 75 years of experience in textile manufacturing and its clothes have become recognisable the world over.

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QUIET CLOTHING US label Quiet Clothing is the brainchild of designer Maureen Dougherty, whose eco clothing line was inspired by green-focused textile chemists she encountered during her time at university. Working on the premise that ethical manufacturing is just as important as creating beautiful apparel, the range uses predominantly washable fabrics, while silhouettes are flattering and versatile.

HARRIS WILSON Harris Wilsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection is characterised by an authentic lifestyle and easy to wear clothing, suited to both the city and the great outdoors. The core of the collection centres around knitwear, though a clever and innovative use of materials and refined details such as undersides of collars, buttonholes, elbow patches and more also define the range. The brand offers vibrant colours and printed fabrics every season, with a/w 16 set to provide another strong selection of styles.

ILSE JACOBSEN Since launching more than 20 years ago, Danish brand Ilse Jacobsen has been inspired by the idyllic seaside village of HornbĂŚk and its sandy beaches and dunes. The brand incorporates rainwear and sophisticated womenswear, as well as refined footwear and accessories. Understated luxury is at the core of the brand philosophy, with a true lifestyle concept at the heart. Relaxed smart casuals once again form the basis of the a/w 16 collection.

SHOES

HATS

EVENINGWEAR

PROM

JEWELLERY

OCCASIONWEAR

MOTHER OF THE BRIDE It’s not all about Bridal Come and source something different and stand out from your competition. International brands include Carla Ruiz, L’Atelier, Mac Duggal, Manon, Mascara, Odrella, Sonia Peňa…

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Moda Woman 21-23 February NEC Birmingham

Moda Woman welcomes a host of new labels this season, complementing its selection of core regulars for its most comprehensive line-up to date. WWB looks ahead at some of the ones to watch this a/w 16.

JUNGE

BRODIE CASHMERE

PASSPORT

Celebrating its 70th anniversary this season, Danish outerwear label Junge draws upon an eclectic range of global inspiration for its a/w 16 collection. Crafted from Italian wool, Korean fabric and Japanese fixtures and put together with a unique sense of Danish design, the brand is characterised by a clean contemporary styling that has established a wide base of loyal consumers the world over. Despite its global success, Junge remains a family-run company with heritage values at its core. The brand’s ethos is simply to provide fashion and comfort to women of all ages through multi-purpose jackets and coats that are essentially wearable. Autumn sees cool blues, whites and neutrals dominate the palette, perfectly complementing Junge’s understated design. Stand U38

Brodie Cashmere makes a welcome return to Moda White in February following an absence of several seasons. While maintaining its commitment to using only 100 per cent cashmere for each piece, the brand has taken a new style direction for autumn and will target a wider customer base with its latest offer. Layering pieces are a key focus, while colours are muted with wearable pastels and subtle greys taking centre stage. Founded in 2010, the Leeds-based brand specialises in longer, Mongolian fibres that won’t bobble, even when machine-washed. Having already established a 180-strong portfolio of stockists across the UK, Brodie Cashmere will look to build upon this at Moda Woman. Stand V31

German womenswear label Passport prides itself on its established identity, and this season is no exception as the brand builds upon its signature and distinct styling. Simple layering is key for autumn, with longline knitwear, oversized scarves and ponchos adding a casual structure to each look within the collection. The textural palette is deep and varied, while muted shades maintain an element of cohesion and wearability throughout the range. With more than 1000 points of sale worldwide, Passport is a firm favourite with buyers all over the world and is sure to prove popular when it returns to Moda Woman this season. Stand X48

JUNGE

BRODIE CASHMERE

PASSPORT

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RINO & PELLE

LATTE

DIDRIKSONS

Moda Woman debutante Rino & Pelle joins the line-up this season, introducing a directional range of outerwear to UK trade buyers. Hailing from the Netherlands, over three decades the brand has honed a simple philosophy of stitching fashionable outerwear to perfection for a wide range of contemporary consumers. Leather is the brand’s signature textile, while this season also sees faux fur trims added to the textural palette. The brand already has an established presence across the UK with both its men’s and women’s collections, but will look to build upon its portfolio of stockists with its Moda Woman debut. Stand T20

Moda Woman regular Latte returns to the exhibition this season with a new autumn range that focuses on the brand’s signature vintage colour palette. Deep hues are brought to life with a luxury edge across Latte’s knitwear collection, while the brand’s outerwear offer has been strengthened for the new season in line with buyer feedback. Latte also evolves its contemporary styling this season with a range of new silhouettes, including a selection of new dress shapes. As always, each piece is made in Italy, adding a touch of European flair to the label’s ever-popular collection. Stand W49

Didriksons arrives at Moda Woman for the first time this season, bringing with it a wealth of Swedish heritage stretching back over 100 years. Established in 1913, the outerwear label is designed around a philosophy of adapting to the elements, rather than challenging its surroundings. Having already established a presence across the UK – primarily in specialist outdoor retailers – the brand arrives at Moda Woman with a view to evolving into the women’s lifestyle sector. The label is characterised by clean, contemporary Scandinavian style, timeless and durable designs that transcend demographics of age and season, and performance properties that keep the wearer warm and dry whatever the weather. Stand P59

LAT TE

DIDRIKSONS

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Sound advice Music is a vital ingredient of any fashion retailer’s brand mix and can be the key to keeping staff motivated and customers spending. WWB has enlisted the knowledge of two experts who explain why music is so crucial in business and give top tips on how to maximise the effect of sound in-store.

“Music is so incredibly valuable to businesses. Music is as much part of a business’s identity as its name or décor and we work closely with our customers to ensure music brings their brand to life. Music plays such a vital role for both customer engagement and staff productivity and as a business we are deeply committed to continuous research and learning in these areas,” says Paul Clements, commercial director at PRS for Music, which licenses businesses to play, perform or make available music and runs a Music Makeover scheme for businesses. The effect music has on in-store ambience and therefore the engagement, enjoyment and experience your customers have when they visit cannot be underestimated and is directly linked with sales performance – which is why big players such as Diesel enlist the help of professional music suppliers to tailor their music to their store environment and target audience. “In order to ensure the consumer has a true brand shopping experience, the music we play in our stores is extremely important,” says Caroline Billingham, Diesel’s retail director

for northern Europe. “We work closely with our music supplier who creates specific playlists to engage at any time throughout the day. The right music can make the difference to how long the consumer spends in our stores and how they feel about the brand.” PRS for Music has been licensing music for more than 100 years and is a society of around 115,000 songwriters, composers and music publishers. It represents the rights of these members, as well as members of roughly 150 affiliated societies in nearly 100 countries around the world, by licensing organisations to play, perform or make available music. It then distributes the royalties it collects to those members and societies fairly and efficiently. With 14.7 million musical works in its repertoire, nearly 90 percent of all money collected is distributed to its members. “There are currently around 210,000 businesses helping secure the future of British music which is something we’re hugely proud of and grateful for,” Clements says. “We constantly speak to our customers to build up valuable case

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TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR MUSIC Even though music is not a tangible physical thing, your customers are experiencing your brand through sound whether you like it or not. If you’re not in control of it, you’re missing a trick. Some fashion stores don’t think about it hard enough and just play mainstream chart music or a random selection. But doing this means you are not reflecting your brand identity and you could end up sounding like everybody else on the high street. Retailers need to consider which music represents their brand and how it will speak to their audience. Music can be used creatively to make you stand out. What is your offer? Are you a premium store selling premium products therefore wanting people to linger for longer? If so, you also should be thinking about the type of music you use so that it conveys your high-end positioning, but also make sure the tempo is appropriate. For example, slower tempo music will relax people and encourage longer browsing, whereas fast music could stimulate people to move through the store quicker. ‘DAY-PARTING’ YOUR MUSIC SELECTION Time of day is crucial to what music you play. The feel of the music should be in tune with your trading pattern. For instance you may want to start the day with gentle rather than full-on sounds and gradually grow in tempo as you get busier. There is a different atmosphere on a busy Saturday shopping day to a quiet Tuesday morning and your music should reflect and acknowledge that.

studies in all sectors to use and educate not only our staff but our existing and potential customers.” To promote the importance of music in business, PRS for Music launched its Music Makeover competition in 2011 for the pub sector. Now the competition is being expanded to include fashion retailers. The prize includes a £5,000 makeover which can be spent on a new music system for your store alongside a bespoke music consultancy service advising fashion retailers about equipment and music choices. PRS for Music will also host an event in the winning store featuring PRS for Music members. “We are very excited to be expanding our Music Makeover competition to fashion retailers in May this year, where we offer the winning store a £5,000 makeover as well as an exclusive consultation on their music use. There are still a number of people who don’t realise music can add a real layer of competitive advantage to their business, or know how to use music to its full potential, which is where PRS for Music and the business-tobusiness music services we licence can advise,” Clements says.

Also pay attention to lyrical content. You don’t want to offend customers, so be mindful of swear words or cultural sensitivities. USING MUSIC TO CUSTOMISE ATMOSPHERE The atmosphere in-store is crucial. You want to create a welcoming atmosphere and music plays a vital role in achieving this. The atmosphere is something that needs managing. Monitor the volume levels, assess how the music sounds. Also investing in a decent quality sound system will help create a better atmosphere. Low quality speakers will sound cheap and nasty and won’t create an engaging environment. EXPANDING YOUR MUSIC SELECTION Some stores allow staff to choose music, but this has its flaws as they are likely to be selecting tracks based on their personal taste rather than music that evokes the essence of the brand. It’s also important to make sure the music is regularly updated whilst keeping it on-brand. Keeping the music fresh and relevant will be noticed by customers. Music is such a wonderful and powerful art form that can be used in a creative and strategic way for your business to touch people’s hearts and emotionally connect with them. So why not use it to sound inspiring and unique, helping your store experience and brand stand out. Rob Wood is creative director of bespoke music consultancy service Music Concierge, which has worked with brands such as Mulberry and Harvey Nichols.

For more information on Music Makeover and its launch day on 16 May 2016, visit www.prsformusic.com/musicmakeover — For more information on Music Concierge, visit www.musicconcierge.co.uk

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Retailer spotlight: SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY INCENTIVE SUCCESS

CARNABY POP-UP FOR RELIGION Experimental fashion brand Religion chose London’s Carnaby as the location for its exclusive pop-up in December. Visitors could shop the full collection of graphic T-shirts, deconstructed leather jackets and dresses while DJs played every Thursday to Sunday throughout the month. The pop-up featured free nail art as well as a Model Me Selfie photobooth, for a chance to be scouted by Select Models, while participants could take a photo using #Religionclothing and #Carnaby for a chance to win £250 to spend at any of Carnaby’s 60 restaurants, bars or cafés. Customers also had the chance to win £1000 to spend on Religion clothing at carnaby.co.uk.

Last month, womenswear indie The Dressing Room invited customers to celebrate Small Business Saturday at its store in St Albans, Hertfordshire. On the day, visitors were offered incentives such as double loyalty points with all purchases. A social media competition provided the chance to win a £25 store voucher by tagging an image of ‘something small that makes you smile’ using #shopsmalluk. “Since getting involved with the campaign in 2013, we have seen turnover rise by 55 per cent on Small Business Saturday,” says the store’s owner, Deryane Tadd.

Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry

Web watch:

WWW.AVENUE32.COM

Avenue 32 hosts a varied product mix from a multitude of emerging design talent, in addition to established international brands. Established in 2011, the site has carved a reputation for its extensive offering of quirky, cutting-edge fashion styles. Visitors can browse categories sorted into product types as usual, but also by using filters such as ‘Instagram’ which highlights social media favourites. There is also the option to organise products by trend and through features on the site’s online magazine. Aside from designer interviews and catwalk reports, the magazine is brimming with trend features with options to ‘shop the look’ that link to the catalogue of brands and products on site.

TIFFANY MOORE Co-owner of Renes Lapelle, Lancaster, Lancashire

What is your current bestseller in store? Partywear has generally been good this season, especially from Joseph Ribkoff which I find offers great lines and fit whilst catering for all age groups. With the turn in the weather, our outerwear has performed well for a/w 15 with Creenstone rainwear and Gerry Weber wool coats proving clear winners. How have you found trading over the last month? Over the last month trading has been steady for the time of year and, as always, our in-house events and promotions keep us in the spotlight with our customers. What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store? We ran a four-day event recently with 25 per cent discount and for the first time in 2015 we partook in Black Friday, offering customers 30 per cent off most stock. The sale preview is now well underway, and marketing these events via social media and emailing our loyal customers ensures that we always have someone coming in-store for a bargain. What’s on your agenda for the coming month? As normal, we will be doing our marketing on social media. Other than this it will be out with the old 2015 stock and in with the new 2016 stock, something which we always look forward to. Here’s to good trading in 2016.

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Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears

EVENT CHAMPIONS RETAIL AMBASSADORS

HUNDREDS OF BUSINESS FIGURES GATHERED AT CLARIDGE’S HOTEL IN LONDON RECENTLY TO CELEBRATE 12 WOMEN WORKING WITHIN RETAIL WHO HAVE BEEN CHOSEN AS 2015 SPEC SAVERS EVERYWOMAN IN RETAIL AMBASSADORS. FRONTED BY RETAIL ICON DAME MARY PERKINS, CO-FOUNDER OF SPEC SAVERS, THE EVENT RECOGNISED WOMEN IN A NUMBER OF CATEGORIES FROM FOOD TO FASHION, INCLUDING RETAIL AMBASSADOR NATASHA LEITH-SMITH, FOUNDER & DESIGNER OF ALLUMER JEWELLERY IN PRIMROSE HILL , LONDON.

ROSE HORSFIELD

Owner, Pookie Boutique, Silkstone, Barnsley and Harrogate, North Yorkshire “Our out of town store located at Pot House Hamlet in the village of Silkstone near Barnsley attracts lots of customers for hassle-free shopping with no parking charges and plenty of spaces. However, at our town centre store in Harrogate we often get customers having to rush out of the store to put money on the parking meter or move their car. This presents lost sales for us and time constraints on the customer and really annoys me as a business owner. A year ago we decided to launch ‘Hassle Free Shopping at Pookie Harrogate’. Pookie will reimburse one hour’s parking to customers purchasing an item from us. This has proved really popular and has been welcomed by our customers as a great addition to the personal service we offer.”

YORKSHIRE BOUTIQUE’S GIVING TUESDAY LIST Women’s indie Attic, based in Ilkley, West Yorkshire, turned its back on Black Friday and instead marketed Giving Tuesday with the launch of The Male List, a wishlist with a difference, providing partners of the store’s usual female clientele with perfect Christmas gift ideas. Proving a success, for every item sold, Attic donated £1 to Yorkshire Cancer Research.

Q&A:

What’s on your agenda for a/w 16 buying?

ADRIANA GREEN

JEN GARRITY

SALLY LONGDEN

EMMA HAYES

Owner, Scarecrow Boutique, London N8

Co-owner, Coco Marie, Amersham, Buckinghamshire

Owner of Stick & Ribbon, Nottingham

Owner, Emma Plus, Brighton

“Keeping stock levels and forward ordering as low as possible to ensure we are not at the mercy of the unpredictable weather patterns and need to go to sale.”

“Good staples like great workwear, useful basics and knits. Also I can’t wait to see what is going on in the world of the dress next winter. And of course, there is eveningwear. Winter holds the tantalising prospect of Christmas parties. People have asked me for sparkle this year, so I think I will take a punt with plenty of that next winter.”

“For 2016 our buying agenda will be sourcing additional accessories labels with an edge, as our wide range of accessories are selling extremely well and we are looking to expand in this area. Also a jewellery label that designs statement pieces, which fits in well with our other pieces.”

“We are looking to add lots of accessories and fun quirky gifts under £20 to our a/w 16 buy as we have seen a phenomenal response to both Lola & Gilbert make-up and tote bags, plus cute wrist/hair ties from Eloise London and Popband.”

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E-tail Clinic

Web chat:

Essential e-commerce advice The expert view: Keeping pace in the Always On Era We live in an ‘always on’ era, where we can book our next getaway from the sofa, bank at midnight and constantly connect with colleagues, friends and family. ‘Always on’ has had a significant impact on retailers. Now, more than ever, consumer time is precious. Stand in a queue? No thanks. 24/7 lives mean that customers want purchases quickly and at a time that suits them. It is not surprising that smaller retailers worry that they will struggle to match the e-commerce advances of the big hitters like Amazon. Bigger isn’t always better. Thankfully, matching creativity with nimble structures, the tech-first environment offers SME retailers a unique opportunity to thrive. Below are three areas that they can excel in as they navigate the changing retail landscape. IT Infrastructure A sudden surge in e-commerce has meant that many large retailers have found their IT systems obsolete as they cannot deal with increasing volumes. Smaller retailers have been able to avoid this by outsourcing their IT infrastructures. Small and mid-size retailers can benefit from cloud facilities that offer new technology without large, up-front investments. SME retailers can embrace changes by not relying on legacy systems and using cloud technology that integrates easily into their existing APIs. Marketing Social media has revolutionised marketing. Consumers now want personal interaction with brands during their online buying journey, in the same way they would in a store. In 2015 international corporations invested a great deal of money trying to replicate the way that smaller retailers reach their customers. This means that SME retailers can simply extend normal customer interactions to the digital sphere. Independent retailers should use social channels to respond in real time to local events and use analytics to target geographically close followers, as well as those with an interest in relevant sector(s). Delivery The old model of purchasing on the retailers’ terms is finished. When it comes to buying and receiving goods, the customer truly is king. This might seem intimidating for SME retailers working on a smaller scale, but it shouldn’t be. Outsourcing sensibly, retailers can compete with the likes of Amazon. At On the dot, we recognised the need to help SME retailers keep up with the delivery expectations of their customers. In 2015 we launched our service to enable smaller retailers to offer ultimate delivery convenience without the need for costly IT integration. This offers customers point-to-point delivery of their purchase during a one-hour slot that they can choose, seven days a week. For many, the convenience of getting their delivery when and where they want it is more useful than getting it as soon as possible. Retailers can book deliveries in store via a tablet using their online account, without any IT changes or investment, enabling SME retailers to compete in crowded marketplaces. Customers are demanding total convenience in purchase and delivery to match their lifestyles. Nimble and proactive, SME retailers can take on larger competitors by taking an innovative approach to marketing, outsourcing IT and delivery systems. This year is looking bright for creative, collaborative retailers, who will find themselves hot on the heels of even the largest names. Patrick Gallagher, CEO, On the dot – a CitySprint brand

HANNAH JENNINGS Owner, Starburst Boutique, Devon www.starburstboutique.com

When did you launch your website and is it transactional? The website launched in 2008 when I opened the store. A transactional arm was added to the site in 2013. What percentage of your business does your site constitute? The site counts for about 10 per cent of the business. This is a mixture of online purchases and good old-fashioned mail order. Are you selling the same stock online as in-store? This season knitwear and particularly knitted accessories from Eribé and Electronic Sheep have been performing incredibly well both in-store and online. However, I always try to encourage customers to come in to the store as there is a greater breadth of product available. Is your e-commerce arm growing, and what is driving this growth? At present our website and social media sites act as a point of reference for our customers. This is something we are looking to enhance in the future as it is a great driver of footfall to the store. What are your plans for the site and how would you like it to develop? Our website will be relaunched in the spring. Currently our online presence is slightly scattered so we are integrating all areas to one site, ultimately making it more coherent and user friendly. We won’t be going in for the hard sell, but are looking for new opportunities to engage with our customers.

21% *Source: PCA Predict

The growth of online sales shoppers on Christmas day prior to in-store sales on Boxing Day

73%

of shoppers have abandoned their online basket in the past, the prime reason being high or unavailable delivery costs at checkout

*Source: IMRG

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Names and Numbers

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7 Seasons 020 7636 4207 www.7seasons.com Animal 0845 026 7267 www.animal.co.uk Anonyme 020 7702 0203 www.anonyme.it Armour Lux 0161 236 9855 www.armorlux.com Atelier Gardeur 020 7580 6244 www.atelier-gardeur.com Bellfield 0161 230 7312 www.bellfieldclothing.com Braintree Clothing 020 7671173 www.braintreeclothing.com Cinque 0049 2161 965437 www.cinque.de Darling 01732 883343 www.darlingclothes.com Dolcis 01706 212512 www.dolcis.co.uk Dranella 0045 63158587 www.dranella.com Elisa Cavaletti 07876 333397 www.danieladallavalle.com Emi Jewellery 0041 764322332 www.emijewellery.com Emily and Fin 020 7812 9992 www.emilyandfin.co.uk Faber 020 8441 6305 www.faberknitwear.de Girls on Film 0845 524 0265 www.little-mistress.com Gudrun & Gudrun 0045 29617077 www.gudrungudrun.com J Shoes 01858 468123 www.jshoes.com James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net Johnstons of Elgin 020 7227 3131 www.johnstonscashmere.com Joules 01858 435261 www.joules.com JQ Jeans 020 7702 0203 www.jqjeans.eu Kirei 020 7221 6663 www.kireiclothing.com Latte 0141 204 0699 www.latteclothing.com Lecomte 020 7636 4207 www.lecomte.de Little Mistress 0845 524 0265 www.little-mistress.com Llunaa 0161 212 7590 www.llunaa.com Lotus 01706 219222 www.lotusshoes.co.uk Luisa Cerano 020 7323 6100 www.luisacerano.com Mac 020 7636 7111 www.mac-mode.com Marble 01418 826743 www.marblefashions.co.uk Marc Aurel 07906 070081 www.marc-aurel.com Marc Cain 020 7436 0705 www.marc-cain.com Michele 020 7636 4207 www.michele-fashion.com Monari 020 7636 4207 www.monari.de Neon Rose 0161 835 2064 www.neonrose.co.uk Obey 0120 269 9620 www.obeyclothing.co.uk Passport 0049 70 31 64 23 www.passport.de People Tree 020 7042 8900 www.peopletree.co.uk Picadilly 020 7580 3202 www.picadilly.ca Project AJ117 020 8964 0482 www.project-aj117.com Riani 01704 823005 www.riani.de Ronen Chen 020 7458 4019 www.ronenchen.com Rosemunde 0045 3964 0190 www.rosemunde.com Ruby Rocks 0041 764322332 www.rubyrocks.com Schneiders 020 7636 4207 www.schneiders.com Second Female 0045 70271007 www.secondfemale.com Silk Threads 07786 708565 www.sacredthreads.com Smashed Lemon 0800 612 9009 www.smashed-lemon.com Steilmann 020 7291 0522 www.steilmann.com Suzy D 020 8202 7993 www.suzyd.co.uk Traffic People 01245 280 878 www.trafficpeople.co.uk Turnover 07906 070081 www.turnover.com Zatchels 0116 248 9345 www.zatchels.com

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The Last Word with... Suzanne Doani Director, Suzy D At the time it was a very big deal and my friends all thought I was very cool and daring. What are the top three things on your bucket list? I’ve always wanted to stay in a beach villa, complete with stilts, in the Maldives. I’m hoping to tick this one off my list soon. I want to see the success of Suzy D Online when we launch it next year (watch this space!) and most of all, to see my three children grow up to be kind, settled and happy. What’s your favourite tipple? Vodka and lemonade – because it’s low-calorie. What could you cope better with, no internet or no mobile for the day? I would not be able to be without my phone for a minute. I am constantly taking calls from the Suzy D staff, our factories in Italy, wholesale customers and of course my three children.

Name: Suzanne Doani Job title: founder and director, Suzy D From: London Lives: London

What’s your earliest / happiest childhood memory? My childhood memories always seem to revolve around singing and dancing. I used to stand in front of the mirror with a hairbrush, singing my favourite song of the moment as well as entertaining my friends and family with my very out-of-tune melodies! Which song sums you up? Happy by Pharrell Williams. I like to think of myself as a happy and upbeat person and that it spreads to my colleagues, friends and family. I have a lot of fun at work and home and I couldn’t imagine juggling my work/life balance without the sound of laughter. Fortunately, the people around me seem to share my sense of humour! What’s the naughtiest thing you’ve ever done? When I was 15, I had a party without my parents’ knowledge.

Would you rather rewind life or pause it? I’d pause the best bits of now and rewind to my favourite times in the past. Failing that, I’d like to think that I appreciate where I’ve got to and cherish what I have here and now. What makes you laugh? My happiest times are with my children. The things they do and say make me laugh and we spend as much time together as we can. What’s your guilty pleasure? My guilty pleasure is going home in the afternoon and trying to have an hour totally alone watching a film, covered with a duvet and with an extra-large bag of Maltesers. What’s your secret talent? My secret talent is that I can do a handstand. Not against the wall – in the middle of the room! What achievement are you most proud of? I am most proud of my three children, what they achieve and the responsible and kind people they are becoming. If you didn’t do your current job, what would you be doing? Before I started Suzy D I had a small jewellery shop and before that I actually made jewellery. That’s what I would be doing if I hadn’t founded Suzy D: I’d be dyeing beads and making jewellery and selling it to market traders and jewellery shops.

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