MWB MAGAZINE APRIL ISSUE 229

ISSUE 229 | APRIL 2016 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 12

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

14

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

19

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

24

In-season stock

Earn your stripes

26

In-season stock

California love

28

Ride culture moves up a gear in Bristol

Tom Bottomley catches up with indie retailer Spoke & Stringer

30

Traditional timepiece revival

A return to the more classic watch

32

Life & Style

Lifestyle products to get in store now

34

Footwear Forecast

Discovering what the new season has in store for some of the key names

in men’s footwear

36

Moda: Trend Report

Victoria Jackson spots the a/w 16 trends to emerge at Moda Gent

39

The Edit

The key product and faces from London tradeshow Jacket Required

R E G U L A R S 7 8 16

Comment News Interview

Caroline Andersson

44 47 50

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With‌

Olivia Francis

Front cover:

Brixton 0117 986 2838

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | COMMENT | 07

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — W R I T E R Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

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I’ve written about the subject of blogging on a number of occasions before in MWB, but after attending a great seminar on blogging within the fashion industry at the recent edition of fashion tradeshow Moda, it seems this online platform really can be key to engaging customers, building brand loyalty and, more importantly, securing sales.

— The seminar, which was presented by SEO and e-commerce specialist Jon Tromans, started with the basics – firstly, to not in fact call your blog a blog. If you have a blog integrated within your online store, Tromans suggests calling it something such as The Edit, Showcase, Lookbook, Journal or even Magazine.

Marks & Spencer, for example, have gone with the term Inspire Me, whereas Ways & Means is the editorial section of menswear indie The Hip Store’s website.

Looking at why it’s essential for retailers to develop a blog, Tromans highlights four key points. One; to generate sales from products featured. Two; to build customer loyalty and repeat sales. Three; to create in-depth content for search engines and lastly, to have content to share across your social media channels to create conversation.

One of the main queries raised when people look at starting a blog is ‘what do I write about?’ There are so many avenues you could take – introducing new labels, writing a post on street style trends or answering questions. What outerwear should I wear over my work suit? What colour shoes should I wear with a navy suit? All the questions you’ve been asked in-store, use them to create content to engage, inform and attract readers.

Perhaps you could create a lookbook, and take some photographs of a member of staff wearing your latest collections? You must not, however, use this to directly sell to your reader. Yes, link back to relevant products, but don’t go in at full throttle about everything you have in store. That’s not what blogging is about. It’s about creating a lifestyle destination which embodies the personality of your store and, hopefully, your customer.

Starting a blog can seem like one more, maybe unnecessary, task to take on when running the online arm of your business, but it really does have so many advantages and with online becoming a necessity rather than an option for many independent retailers, it’s definitely something I’d recommend considering.

Victoria Jackson Editor

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

BUYERS WELCOME REVISED MODA GENT

BUSINESS RATES CUT FOR SMALL FIRMS A relief on business rates was announced by Chancellor George Osborne during the Budget, with the tax being scrapped for properties with a rateable value of £15,000 or less. This change will come into effect permanently next April, and is set to take 600,000 small businesses out of the business rate system, which could save them £6,000 a year, while 250,000 are expected to pay less in business rates. Overall, Osborne says half of all properties will pay no or less business rates under his plans.

Business rates will also be linked to the Consumer Price Index by 2020, which is lower than the current Retail Price Index. It’s a budget that Osborne says “backs small business”.

Commercial stamp duty is also to be cut for small firms, with a 0 per cent rate on purchases up to £150,000, 2 per cent on the next £100,000 and a 5 per cent top rate above £250,000. However, a new 2 per cent rate for high-value leases with net present value above £5m has come into effect. The commercial stamp duty reform also promises to benefit small firms, with some 90 per cent unaffected or paying less, and 9 per cent of firms paying more.

Furthermore, corporation tax is also to be slashed from the current rate of 20 per cent to 17 per cent by 2020.

Osborne also revealed that the Office for Budget Responsibility has downgraded its forecast for GDP growth to 2 per cent this year, down from 2.4 per cent in November’s Autumn Statement, and 2.2 per cent in 2017, down from 2.4 per cent forecast four months ago. He said that the outlook for the global economy was “materially weaker” and the UK “not immune” to slowdown elsewhere.

The changes to business rates were welcomed by industry bodies such as the British Property Federation. “We have campaigned for a long time for the business rates multiplier to be calculated by reference to CPI, which is a much better indicator of commercial property rental growth than the now-discredited RPI. This move, coupled with an improved appeals regime, should go some way to making business rates fairer,” says Melanie Leech, chief executive of the British Property Federation.

She adds: “We welcome the suggestion of more frequent business rates revaluations, which we have long advocated. Frequent revaluations maintain fairness for ratepayers, who should expect to be taxed in proportion to the economic benefit that they derive from their property. We are glad that it looks like the government is finally taking this recommendation on board.”

—

Last month welcomed the a/w 16 edition of Moda, with both buyers and brands praising the changes made to the show’s menswear section. Relocated between footwear and womenswear, exhibitors noted the buoyant atmosphere, with an increase in footfall and a roster of debuting brands.

“The new layout worked really well; it’s nice to see the show evolve,” says Neil Raven, owner of Southend-on-Sea menswear independent Ravens. “I wanted something new this season and I came away with two great new brands, Casamoda and Tresanti.”

Christopher Hayes, owner of Durham menswear shop Woven, says: “Without doubt Moda is the best menswear show the UK has. It’s where retailers can actually go and write orders, and the new layout is great.”

The next edition of Moda takes place at the NEC, Birmingham from 7-9 August 2016.

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RON DORFF MAKES UK RETAIL DEBUT French-Swedish sportswear brand Ron Dorff is to make its UK debut in Seven Dials with a 1,500 sq ft store at 5 Earlham Street.

Opening this month, the brand will join the likes of Natural Selection and Farah, further cementing Seven Dials’ appeal as one of the capital’s key fashion destinations.

Founded in 2011, Ron Dorff has a flagship store in Paris, sells online to over 50 countries via rondorff.com and is present in more than 80 concept stores and department stores worldwide.

“For our second European flagship store, London was the natural choice with its fashion and retail heritage,” says Ron Dorff co-founder and CEO Claus Lindorff. “We were impressed by Seven Dials’ character, accessibility and neighbouring brands.

Shaftesbury’s passion and vision for Seven Dials confirmed it as the place for our debut in London.”

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | NEWS | 09

NEWS IN BRIEF

ABERCROMBIE & FITCH UNVEIL NEW MENSWEAR DIRECTION

NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN

Abercrombie & Fitch has launched its latest menswear offering under the creative direction of Aaron Levine. While referencing the brand’s 124-year history and heritage as a sporting goods brand, the new collection moves towards a more elevated look, featuring new fits and fabrics.

The collection introduces linen and suede, with new techniques and details throughout such as destroyed necklines with hand repair, garment-dyed and garment-washed fabrics. The colour palette incorporates camel, indigo, faded green and oxblood hues.

Denim, meanwhile, has been tweaked to offer a slimmer fit and comes in white, bleached and frayed finishes with the branding removed from the pockets. Bottoms see the return of the refined Paratroop and cargo silhouettes in camouflage, dark green and black.

—

Scottish cashmere company Johnstons of Elgin has announced the appointment of Alan Scott as its new creative director with immediate effect.

Scott brings with him over 27 years of experience and knowledge and is best known for his role in launching Donna Karan menswear.

“I feel very privileged to be appointed as the creative director for Johnstons of Elgin, one of the most prestigious vertical cashmere producers in the world today,” he says. “I am excited about the future of the brand and to develop further its well deserved position in the luxury market.”

The brand has seen strong growth in recent years and continues to work with some of the biggest names in the fashion industry. With plans to further expand the business across accessories, home interiors and cloth, Scott will play a key role within these developments.

—

ELLIS RUGBY APPOINTS NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Brian Davies has joined Ellis Rugby as national sales manager for the UK. Davies was previously with Supreme Products in a similar sales role and prior to this he worked with Matchmakers International, which carries brands such as Harry Hall and Caldene.

Before Matchmakers he spent eight years as Retail Sales Manager with Joules Clothing. “We see the appointment of Brian as a significant step in building our wholesale distribution business,” says Kevin Ellis, managing director, Ellis Rugby.

— JONTY SHIPLEY JOINS SHOPSTYLE Fashion search engine ShopStyle has appointed Jonty Shipley as director of marketing and site for Europe. Shipley brings with him a wealth of extensive e-commerce experience following nearly a decade at retail giant Amazon.

During his time there, he had a number of different roles within marketing, most notably running Search Marketing, and before that he launched Amazon’s UK clothing store while working in product management.

Shipley will be responsible for overseeing all aspects relating to marketing and site functionality of ShopStyle, and was attracted to the company because of the team and the plans for the coming year. ShopStyle said of Jonty Shipley’s hire: “We are extremely pleased to have Jonty on board to help drive our 2016 initiatives, and we look forward to the expertise he will bring to the team.”

—

KNITWEAR SPECIALIST SLAITH MAKES SUCCESSFUL DEBUT

MEET THE MANUFACTURER LAUNCHES COMPETITION

Premium British label Slaith made its debut at Jacket Required this season, showcasing the world’s first seamless, 30-gauge cashmere knitwear. Following a successful showcase at London’s largest menswear show, the brand is now focusing on delivering quality product and working closely with independent retailers on sell-through.

“When we show Slaith to retailers, the quality speaks for itself,” says John Day, divisional sales director. “By using the best technology, combined with our unique know-how, we’ve been able to produce the holy grail in terms of knitwear standards.

It has been 164 years since the first automated knitted machine was developed, and this garment represents the pinnacle of what can be achieved,” he adds. Comprising 22 men’s styles and 27 womenswear pieces, the range is available in a spectrum of 17 and 19 colours respectively.

—

This year’s edition of British sourcing event Meet the Manufacturer is seeking innovators in technology, design, product development and sustainability to take part in a new Dragon’s Den-style competition.

The two-day conference and trade show, which takes place on 25-26 May at London’s Old Truman Brewery, will feature Innovation Accelerator for manufacturers and Designer’s g concepts will be selected to attend and pitch to a panel of experts.

“Since innovation is the key theme for our event this year, we’re giving manufacturers and designers the opportunity to pitch their creative and pioneering concepts to a panel of experts to gain the recognition and mentoring to enable them to transform their business,” says Kate Hills, CEO and founder of Make it British.

—

HAWES & CURTIS PERSONALISE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE British heritage brand Hawes & Curtis today announced it has appointed garment fit specialist Fits.me to provide customer insight and recommendation solutions aimed at improving its shopping experience.

The solutions will provide the Jermyn Street tailor with the ability to recommend specific products to individual customers based on their body shape and preferences as they shop.

The multi-phased innovation strategy will see Fits.me roll out its fit recommendation product across the luxury retailer’s main product group of men’s shirts, and will then be extended across its range of women’s shirts, suits and outwear.

“With our product offering our customers are looking for an easier, enhanced experience so they can find what is right for them faster and make the perfect choice of fit and size when buying a new garment,” says Anya Mackessy, e-commerce manager, Hawes & Curtis.

“Our partnership with Fits.me will allow us to dramatically overhaul the way in which we interact with our customers and utilise our data sets to transform their shopping experience.”

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | NEWS | 10

NEWS IN BRIEF

FARAH LAUNCHES TAILORING LINE

GEOX REVEALS 6.1 PER CENT INCREASE

This season sees menswear label Farah launch its debut tailoring line, with a collection of fully constructed suits and separates. The brand’s aim of creating wardrobe classics to complement modern life is mirrored throughout the line.

The collections comprises five 3-piece suits, and three separate pieces including single and double breasted jackets with varying notch and peak lapels. Trousers and waistcoats are found with uniformed skinny cuts across the collection. Fabrics include fine twills in burgundy and blue and textured hopsack in bottle green and light tan. Woven houndstooth also features in several styles.

Detailing includes gold piping bonded to interior seams and the brand’s subtle F pattern woven into jacket and trouser linings. The collection will also feature a tuxedo style shawl-lapelled jacket available in dark navy and burgundy.

—

Geox has revealed a 6.1 per cent increase in turnover for the 2015 financial year. Despite footwear accounting for 89.9 per cent of total sales, the brand continued to put a focus on its strong outerwear offering, which amounted to €102.6m of total turnover. Sales in Europe, which accounted for 43 per cent of sales, increased by 4.6 per cent to €375.6m, compared to €359.3m in 2014.

Geox chairman and founder Mario Moretti Polegato says: “That these results have been achieved despite challenging macroeconomic conditions is a clear demonstration of the strength of our brand, the distinctive nature of our technical know-how and the fact that our products are popular with consumers.” He adds, “I am confident that our strategy based on continuous innovation, a flexible supply chain and boosting efficiency across all departments is on the right track.”

—

R.M. WILLIAMS LAUNCHES INTO LIBERTY

FURTHER GROWTH FOR ORGANIC SECTOR

One of Australia’s most iconic footwear labels, R.M. Williams, has launched an installation in London department store Liberty.

Adjacent to Liberty’s Men’s Designer Room, the in-store concept is situated in the men’s footwear department, and signals the start of a wave of UK activity, including a number of London launches and a new marketing campaign.

Crafted in R.M. Williams’ South Australian workshop, each pair of boots are constructed by hand using the same methods since 1932. Key styles used in the Liberty installation include the Signature Craftsman in chestnut and black and the Craftsman in chestnut and burnished leather.

The brand’s new UK focus follows significant investment after its 2014 acquisition by L Capital Asia, the private equity firm sponsored by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy.

—

The organic market enjoyed continued steady growth of 4.9 per cent in 2015, according to the newly released Soil Association 2016 Organic Market Report. This is the third year of consecutive growth for the UK organic sector, now worth £1.95bn.

Shoppers spent an extra £1.73m a week on organic products in 2015, and the steady rise of the organic market experienced in the UK mirrors a global trend of growth and widening interest in the organic sector.

Sales of Soil Association certified licensed organic textiles – all of which is certified to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) – are seeing runaway growth at 16 per cent, with the UK market for these products now worth £21.6m.

—

FEDEX HELPS SMALL BUSINESSES GO GLOBAL FedEx Express, the world’s largest express transportation company, plans to help small businesses with its FedEx Small Business Grant Contest, which is being brought to the UK for the first time.

Small business participants registering online before 3 April will be asked to elaborate on their business dreams and plans to go global. Those selected as finalists will be invited to provide further details of their business plans.

“Small businesses are facing a number of challenges every day, whether sourcing finance, evolving market conditions or meeting the government’s targets, says Raj Subramaniam, executive vice president of global marketing and communications, FedEx Services.

“At FedEx, we want to help these businesses flourish while encouraging entrepreneurial spirit. We believe even ideas that start small can have huge potential, and the small businesses that we serve every day are a powerful illustration of that. The competition, which provides tangible financial grants, demonstrates our commitment to helping small businesses unleash their potential and realise their dreams.”

— RETAILER CONFIDENCE GROWS IN 2016 Recent figures and store openings show that new opportunities are helping retailers across and outside the UK to bounce back, as retail IT support specialist Barron McCann reveals record numbers of store openings planned for 2016.

Figures from the British Retail Consortium (BRC) and Springboard showed footfall rose by 1.2 per cent in January 2016, compared to the same period a year ago – the best performance since January 2014. There were also improvements for high street shopping locations, which have not seen any increases – excluding Easter – since July 2013, as January saw footfall rise by 0.2 per cent.

“We are still seeing constant evolution within the high street, and retailers are becoming more optimistic about the future with the new opportunities that are available to them; whilst some doors are closing for retailers, other doors are definitely opening,” says Sean Chandiram, Sales and Marketing Director at Barron McCann. “The number of store openings Barron McCann has recently been, or is planning to be, involved with, just shows the scale of what is still available to retailers in 2016.”

— LUXURY BRANDS NEED TO BRIDGE GAP BETWEEN ONLINE AND IN-STORE ACTIVITY Consumers buying luxury goods both online and in-store spend around 50 per cent more per year than in-store only customers, a report by consumer engagement specialists ContactLab reveals. The Digital and Physical Integration: Luxury Retail’s Holy Grail study, produced by ContactLab in conjunction with Exane BNP Paribas, reveals how digital is one of the more profitable growth pockets available to luxury brands. Whilst still a relatively small channel, online is expected to drive around 40 per cent of luxury market growth over the 2016-20 period.

The study examined how digital is being leveraged to make the most of traffic in-store and found that digitally engaged clients spent more in-store. Burberry, for example, combines online and offline operations seamlessly, with click and collect already representing 15 per cent of the brand’s online sales.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | ADVICE | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: PREPARING TO MEET CHANGING CUSTOMER NEEDS

CHRIS FIELD is the retail analyst and chairman of Retail Connections

Events such as Black Friday are becoming a permanent fixture on the retail calendar and fashion brands need to ensure they are prepared for the demand to meet changing customer needs.

Retailers put a lot of effort into supporting their websites on Black Friday, but they should also focus more on post-Black Friday services such as returns. Global e-commerce consultancy Salmon predicts that Black Friday 2016 will be worth £5bn and last five days – from Thursday to Cyber Monday. Certainly the promotion is getting longer year on year; will we be talking about Black November in future years?

Retailers stand to make more money by managing the journey beyond Black Friday. For example, customers might be more accepting of a bad experience in relation to Black Friday because it’s a sale period and they are getting a deal, but this short term gain is not sustainable. Ultimately, the customer is likely to remember a bad encounter that they were prepared to put up with at the time of buying, but has impaired their overall view of the retailer or brand.

Another key consideration is customer loyalty. Brand allegiance can go out of the window in periods of high traffic and spend, such as the stretch from October to January. However, the pressures on the retailer’s stores, staff, systems and supply chain put stresses on the customer as well.

Retailers should actually be going into service overdrive during those periods because this is a time of year when they make most of their profits.

Retailers need to rethink what defines them. Technology will soon enable the elements of retail that are boring to both parties – choosing, transacting, buying, shipping, returns – to be fully automated. Let the machines do that bit, while retail staff can design, curate and manage the customer experience. ­—

WEB WATCH

WWW.MENSWEARSTYLE.COM Bringing together the most wearable trends with news affecting the menswear industry, Menswear Style is a one-stop shop for those looking for advice and inspiration. Featuring its own shop referral platform, visitors will find key product from the likes of Coggles.com, Farfetch.com and Urban Outfitters. A lifestyle destination, rather than solely fashion, the site features everything from grooming through to the latest innovations in cars and technology.

—

NEWS

TILL SOLUTION HELPS INDIES COMPETE WITH BIG NAMES The Good Till Co. has launched a low-cost EPOS system designed for independent retailers, which combines a tablet computer with user-friendly flexible software and cloud technology. Bridging the gap between offline stores and online data, users can quickly run sales and stock reports on the go and email receipts to customers to access at their own convenience.

The design also allows retailers to move from internet connection to a fully functioning offline mode, ideal for festival and market pop-ups.

Further developments include multiple currency options and a smart e-loyalty platform due to launch this year.

— SMES MUST GET SMART ABOUT SMARTPHONES Following the latest research by industry analyst IMRG, which revealed that 51 per cent of all online sales are conducted on mobile devices, global e-commerce delivery specialist Fastlane International has urged start-ups and SME online retailers to get smart about the switch to smartphones.

Consumers who used to simply research items on mobiles before buying from their PCs or laptops, are increasingly confident in the security and functionality of their devices. Sites that don’t display well on mobiles or lose functionality will miss out to those geared towards customers increasingly on the move.

“Many of [our] customers are e-commerce sites delivering to the UK and overseas - and we’ve seen by the everincreasing number of deliveries that it’s a fast-growing market. But we urge e-tailers of all sizes that have yet to make the change to responsive site designs to make the move, or be left behind. They can’t ignore the lure of the Small Screen,” says Fastlane’s head of consumer research, David Jinks.

“Booking a parcel pick-up is just as likely to be done on the go these days as any other web transaction,” he adds. “It’s important that all companies, from the smallest marketplace trader to expensive online boutiques, follow suit and don’t miss out on this latest switch in consumer patterns.”

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT DAVID HOPPER is the store manager and menswear buyer at Golding, Newmarket, and a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

He speaks to Melissa Wheeler about current business.

FOUR MARKETING UNVEILS GLASGOW RETAIL CONCEPT London sales agency Four Marketing has unveiled a new retail store in the heart of Glasgow. 18montrose offers innovative product for men and women with brands including Rick Owens, Yeezy, Stone Island Shadow Project, Acronym, Alexander Wang, Nanamica, Engineers Garments, A.P.C, Folk, Beams+, Y-3 and Common Projects.

Fashion and accessories are accompanied by carefully sourced essentials including beauty and grooming products, books and homeware, as well as an in-store shop from AESOP. According to Four Marketing, 18montrose “will attempt to explore and challenge the conventions of the familiar retail space, with 18montrose.com launching in May to support on both transactional and marketing levels.” Spanning 3,000 sq ft over two floors, the sandstone Georgian building features folded modular walls creating offset rooms and sections within a blacked out space, with simple design details including stainless steel Italian industrial fridges acting as display cabinets.

The official launch took place on 17 March and was celebrated with a drinks reception and local DJs in store. Further store openings are planned this year in Nottingham (May) and Kings Cross London (September).

— NEWS IN BRIEF JIGSAW TO OPEN IN ST JAMES’S MARKET Premium fashion brand Jigsaw is set to open a new luxury concept store at The Crown Estate and Oxford Properties’ £400m St James’s Market redevelopment later this year. The new store will offer its full range of premium men’s and women’s clothing and accessories, in 3,000 sq ft of trading space.

“St James’s Market is the natural home for our new bespoke Emporium, located in this iconic part of London synonymous with British style, craftsmanship and luxury,” says Peter Ruis, CEO, Jigsaw. “We’re thrilled to be part of this landmark development which blends the historic with the new to re-establish the area as a world-class retailer and lifestyle destination.”

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HUNTSMAN OPENS FIRST LOCATION OFF SAVILE ROW Bespoke tailor Huntsman has opened its doors on New York’s 57th Street, the first opening for the brand outside its Savile Row shop.

With an estimated 60 percent of the brand’s clientele based in the US, the location will serve as an environment where Huntsman can privately host and provide a further elevated service to its clients. “While making garments by hand in a similar way as they were in 1849 ensures a quality rarely equalled with modern techniques, in today’s world, I felt we should be closer and able to serve our clients in America, where the largest Huntsman client base lives and works,” says Pierre Lagrange, chairman and owner of Huntsman.

—

We have a lot of colour here at Golding. Being in a spot such as Newmarket means we can sell colour more than many menswear stores.

Perhaps it’s that the horse racing fraternity likes colourful clothing?

Over the past few years, our biggest challenge has been to bring in new customers from the younger generation. Our business and profile has always traded on and been noted as ‘traditional’. Indeed, it’s the appeal for many of our customers. Mindful of the future, our challenge has been to bring in younger customers and make the store relevant to them. Introducing Tommy Hilfiger was a decision made in this spirit and has largely succeeded. However, changing perception is a slow process and we work hard to achieve this through our merchandise, windows and marketing.

The introduction of our epos system at Golding has thrown up some interesting data.

Profit per brand is a key piece of informative we study carefully and it has certainly made us look again at the attention we give to each brand. In that sense, the Schoffel gilet is by far our best performer. Last season we sold 500 pieces at £130 each, so you can work out that it’s a brand worth paying attention to.

Like many independents, we know our USP and that is country wear, for which we have a strong reputation. Our customers can be fiercely loyal to a brand so when Puffa disappeared from the market last year we were left with a large niche to fill. The majority of our customers are ‘outdoor’ types who venture out whatever the weather, so we found it easier to sell coats than many retailers did during the recent mild weather. Given that a coat is a wardrobe staple for the typical Golding customer, it’s essential that we have the choice and range in stock, whatever the weather. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: PHILIP BROWNE What has customer reaction been to spring/summer collections so far?

We initially had a really good reaction to some of the new more desirable collections, mainly from the fashionistas and people hungry for new product.

The Fred Perry x Raf Simons got a strong response when it landed, and we had a really great reaction to some of the Yeezy product – Kanye West’s brand – both clothing and footwear. It’s putting a bit of the glam and rock ‘n’ roll back into fashion that’s been sadly missing in recent years. Everyone wants it because they can’t get hold of it.

Everybody always wants something that they can’t have. That’s PHILIP BROWNE OWNER, PHILIP a classic bit of retailing. It’s like everyone wants to get into the BROWNE, NORWICH restaurant that’s fully booked, or the club they can’t get into.

Whether you like Kanye West or not, Yeezy is the same thing.

Moncler is another collection that’s been really well received.

In fact Moncler is now literally one of our best sellers, and it’s a fantastic company to do business with.

Are there any particular looks that are strong for you at the moment?

Our biggest growth area is that whole luxury athletic wear thing. ‘Athlux’ I believe they’re calling it; a horrible phrase. The trend generally out on the street is for sportswear, so it actually goes right across the board, from an ordinary priced adidas T-shirt right the way through to Moncler tracksuits at £400. Even Belstaff has done a tracksuit. Everyone’s got on to this luxury sportswear tip, and it’s working well for us.

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IN FOCUS: OUR DAILY EDIT 23 SHIP STREET, BRIGHTON, BN1 1AD

FOUNDED: FEBRUARY 2013 BRANDS: PORTUGUESE FLANNEL, KESTIN HARE, LIBERTINE LIBERTINE, GARBSTORE, STORY MFG, LEVI’S MADE & CRAFTED, L’ HOMME ROUGE, HOMECORE, INSTRMNT, HARTFORD, LE MONT ST MICHEL, ASHLEY WATSON, VEJA, CAPITAL GOODS, BETON CIRE, SANDQVIST AND SUPER.

JOHN SMEDLEY EXPANDS WITH NEW STORE Knitwear brand John Smedley opened its second retail store in London at 55 Jermyn Street on 10 March.

The store is designed to be an immersive space dedicated to championing craftsmanship, British design and storytelling of the brand’s rich 230-year heritage, all within a contemporary setting.

Elements from the brand’s history and home in Lea Mills, Derbyshire, have been integrated into design details, such as Derbyshire marble table tops, hand-cut maple flooring mirroring the original factory floors, and inset leather walkways replicating original trolleyways put in place in Lea Mills in the 1800s. This is mixed with contemporary handmade British furniture and fitting rooms, alongside bespoke lighting.

“When considering the interior design of our new Jermyn Street store we have made modern links to both our historic 1784 mill and the wider Derbyshire environment around our home location. With a subtle interplay of materials and tones, we have created a contemporary space that is true to the brand and shows off the colours and silhouettes of our knitwear pieces to their best advantage,” says managing director Ian Maclean. “The deliberate association with British craft in a broader sense is very important to us as our 230-year heritage is all about making in Britain,” he adds.

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NEWS IN BRIEF Our Daily Edit (ODE) is a husband and wife team, Marc Lewis and Ella Wells, both with a background in directing and producing factual television. In fact, that’s how they met. They decided to quit the TV game and make their passion and mutual interest into a business. The shop name is a nod to their past lives in TV, but also indicates their approach to regularly bringing in fresh and different brands and products for their Brighton customers. The store has a clean aesthetic, allowing the clothes to do the talking, and the split of men’s to women’s is 50/50.

They do the buying together, mainly going to Paris and Copenhagen, priding themselves on taking a risk and supporting newer and smaller brands where possible. They find it very satisfying when they discover something new that takes off in-store. “We are one of the only UK stockists of French hat brand Béton Ciré and it has been incredibly well received,” offers Lewis. “We also stock new and exciting brands such as Instrmnt, Story mfg and Capital Goods. Being the only UK stockist of some of our brands distinguishes us from other stores around.”

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OLIVER SWEENEY TO REOPEN NORTHERN FLAGSHIP After a decade in Leeds, footwear label Oliver Sweeney is refurbishing its Victoria Quarter store to create its first northern flagship. The new-look store will feature an increased display space, a refreshed decor and dedicated areas for its expanding clothing range. It will be the largest store outside of London, with design elements to replicate a gentleman’s club – utilising antique industrial storage, rich timber flooring and Vitsoe shelving units. “After a tremendously successful decade in the Victoria Quarter, I’m thrilled to be building on this, and I can’t think of a better way of doing that than to create our first northern flagship in the city,” says Tim Cooper, CEO, Oliver Sweeney.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | INTERVIEW | 16

INTERVIEW

CAROLINE ANDERSSON Sandqvist CEO Caroline Andersson has been drafted in to oversee the brand’s growth, with a first shop outside of its home market in Sweden set to open on Berwick Street in London’s Soho this April. Tom Bottomley finds out more.

— Tom Bottomley: When did you join Sandqvist as CEO and what is your vision for the brand to take it forward?

Caroline Andersson: I joined Sandqvist at the end of September last year. My mission is to create conditions for further growth and maintain the brand’s foundation and heritage. Our long-term vision is to become the world’s leading brand in stylish and long-lasting everyday bags. It’s something we do so well.

— TB: Why has founder Anton Sandqvist decided to step down as CEO and what is his role now?

CA: Anton Sandqvist started the company in 2004 and felt it was time to step down. He will now devote his time to collection design and helping to build the brand internationally.

— TB: What was your role previously at Craft Sportswear and what qualities and ideas will you bring in to Sandqvist now?

CA: At Craft I worked as Commercial Manager.

The qualities I bring into Sandqvist are building processes and structure to grow the business further. I love working in a creative environment, and helping to make a business grow to its full potential, whilst also keeping its integrity.

— TB: The London shop opening set for mid April has been a long time in the making; why is the Berwick Street location perfect for the Sandqvist brand?

CA: We have been looking for the right location for around 18 months and when we finally found the unit on Berwick Street it felt perfect. There’s a special vibe in Soho, and especially on Berwick Street, with all the nice neighbours such as

CEO SANDQVIST

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | INTERVIEW | 17

Universal Works, Oliver Spencer and Nudie Jeans. Our new shop, at number 79 – next to Foot Patrol – will sell 100 per cent Sandqvist bags and other items we do. We are not intending to sell other brands in the store.

— TB: How big is the new shop, and what will be unique about the shop design?

CA: The space is approximately 920 square feet.

The architectural designs are influenced by Scandinavian nature and functionality. It has been designed by Fredrik Nilsby from Dawn of Ideas, who has also designed the existing Sandqvist stores in Sweden. The store includes a collection of fir plywood, milled and painted panelling, galvanised steel framework, concrete floors and marble table surfaces.

— TB: How will the new Sandqvist shop be split in terms of men’s to women’s products?

CA: We strive to have unisex products that can be used by both by men and women. However, in August we will introduce the first complete women´s collection. The ‘Leather Classics’ and ‘Icons’ collections include statement styles and premium leathers, such as the ‘Elsa’ and ‘Monica’, bringing an element of minimalist luxury to the range.

— TB: How many other stores does Sandqvist have and where are they?

CA: We have four stores if you include the one that’s set to open in London in April. There are three stores in Sweden, two located in Stockholm and one in Gothenburg.

— TB: Why is the timing now right to open a shop in London, and are there plans for more openings in other cities?

CA: We are really looking forward to opening our first store outside Sweden. It is a part of our business strategy to have flagship stores in major cities where we see growth potential. London is our first outside of Sweden, and it’s a great city to tell our story and show our products.

— TB: What is new product-wise that you think will go down well with London consumers, both tourists and locals who work in the area?

CA: The ‘Alva’ and the ‘Hege’ are two popular styles, which will now be available in a new navy

colourway and sold exclusively at the London store during the first week of release. Along with the new releases will be the full Sandqvist product range of 130 styles and the brand’s first vegan ‘Lightweight’ collection. This collection differs from Sandqvist’s signature theme of outdoor living and nature, and instead is aimed at a younger customer with simple bags in light, strong and water repellent rip- stop polyester.

— TB: What else is there of note in the collection?

CA: We also have the ‘Waxed Canvas Series’ in a new olive colour, which should prove to be popular. These bags are made in durable waxed cotton canvas that has a water repellent effect, to deal with any type of weather. This series includes a backpack, a messenger bag as well as ‘Jordan’, our popular weekend bag.

— TB: Are any collaborations in the pipeline or set to launch in the London shop?

CA: There will be, as previously mentioned, a new navy colour for our ‘Alva’ and ‘Hege’ bags, which usually come in black. Otherwise, I think the big thing about the launch will be that the London consumer now can enjoy the whole Sandqvist range in one place. We don´t have any collaborations in the pipeline but we do have a really strong collection which will be in store for April, and more to come in the near future.

— TB: What is the main benefit of having an own brand store?

CA: The advantage of having our own brand store is that we can offer the full range of what we do in our own home environment, with Sandqvist experts taking care of the customers.

It’s the true face of the brand, displayed how we see it best.

— TB: How well is the brand currently performing in the UK in general? Does the UK represent a large amount of sales for the brand right now?

CA: The UK is doing really well for us at the moment and has been a growing market for several years. It’s definitely a key focus market with potential to grow the business even more.

—

TB: Will the London flagship shop help to also grow the brand’s wholesale business in the UK through raising its profile?

CA: We really hope so, and can see from the business in Sweden that our stores have raised the brand profile and created more business for the wholesale area as well. We think the new London shop will only will help to enhance sales and generate further interest in the brand.

— TB: How do you plan to promote the new London shop? Will there be an opening party and other shop events?

CA: We will, for sure, have an opening party and are planning shop events. The London shop is a great area for us showing our brand and products, and it provides an opportunity to meet Sandqvist experts in-store that can tell our story properly.

— TB: How old is the brand now?

CA: Sandqvist was founded in Stockholm, Sweden, in 2004 by Anton Sandqvist. Together, with his brother Daniel and their friend Sebastian, they are the soul behind the brand. So the brand has been up and running for 12 years now.

— TB: What would you say are the brand’s core strengths?

CA: The core strengths are of course our amazing team that works with the brand every day, bringing passion and creativity to it. Another strength is the design language, which is uncomplicated, functional and stylish, with a clear Swedish heritage. You can easily spot a Sandqvist bag from a distance, and that is something that makes me really proud. Standout pieces that have real handwriting, unique to the brand.

— TB: Is there plenty of room to grow the brand and its product offerings? Will other product categories be introduced?

CA: The possibility to grow the brand is huge.

There are still many people out there who haven´t discovered Sandqvist yet and that is our job moving forward, to get more fans worldwide. Our main focus is still making everyday bags.

“ We have been looking for the right location for around 18 months and when we finally found the unit on Berwick Street it felt perfect.”

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 19

P R O D U C T

LONDON CALLING With over 140 years’ experience within the clothing industry, Lyle & Scott’s distinctive design handwriting extends far beyond its iconic Eagle symbol. Blending innovation with function, the brand presents a series of premium fabrics and yarns in its London Collection – a range of softly tailored separates and accompanying knitwear. Drawing aesthetic inspiration from the demands of daily life experienced by modern Londoners, the collection is uncomplicated and refined. Key styles include the pima cotton polo shirt, a navy lambswool crew neck jumper, the Dunsdale Harrington and the lightweight grey marl poplin shirt – all wardrobe classics for the Lyle & Scott shopper.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 20

RADAR Spotlighting style

BEST OF BRITISH

CHANNEL JUMPER

Nightwear brand British Boxers used 100 per cent cotton fabrics to create its latest collection, which is seen on styles such as the two-fold soft brushed flannel pyjama.

The brand is characterised by a mixture of bold and traditional colours with flashes of piping detail on nightwear styles.

On the a/w 16 line, tartan patterns are influenced by everyday colours, ranging from muted shades to bright or subtle pastel hues.

Bold brights, traditional stripes and herringbone patterns also feature strongly across the line.

—

ESTABLISHED: 1976 HISTORY: Originally using home workers as part of the manufacturing process, Channel Jumper was started as a cottage industry business in 1974 by Craig Osborne and has been registered in Alderney since March 1976.

SIGNATURE STYLE: A mix of classic style Guernsey sweaters and additional designs which offer a practical twist on the classic. Made from worsted wool, sweaters are typically square with a straight neck, though also come with zip and V-neck option.

Channel Jumper produces a mix of traditional and modernised Guernsey sweater styles.

The original intention when Craig Osborne established the brand was to revive the Alderney sweater and, as the brand approaches its 40th anniversary, it will once again attempt to recreate this alternative take on the Guernsey, which has been out of production for over 50 years. As the mainstay of the Channel Islands knitting industry, the Guernsey sweater boasts many features dating back to the 15th century, including a rib at the top of the sleeve and a raised seam across the shoulder, gussets under the arm and splits at the hem. Garments are typically durable, with worsted wool fibres tightly packed in the spinning process. The range is produced in a number of different styles and colours, with practical updates coming in the form of a V-neck choice, quarter-zip style and full zip option. Currently, the brand is stocked in international markets: Japan, France and China and also online at www.channeljumper.com. Wholesale prices range from £35-£40.

—

THE OUTDOOR LIFE Didriksons’ a/w 16 collection promotes versatile features through a combination of warm hardy fabrics, which are suited to trekking in the elements, with stylish attention to detail suited to a city break weekend.

The new season sees the arrival of outerwear garments in a spin dyed fabric that can be worn alone or as a mid-layer for extra warmth. The line is developed with an ethical awareness and minimal impact to the environment, as seen through the use of specialised fabrics such as recycled polyester.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 21

PRODUCT NEWS NORWEGIAN WOOD Woodstylz was born in 2010 after its founder, Robert Boers, saw a gap between designer sunglasses brands and the increasing call for products promoting nature and sustainability. The durable cosmopolitan brand with Dutch design roots has moved into the market of sustainable fashion accessories with a collection of sunglasses, card wallets, T-shirts, phone cases and tablet sleeves.

Unique design and a minimal aesthetic are promoted throughout the new collection, while a socially responsible philosophy and the use of natural materials provides each style with an extra edge.

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BESPOKE BELGIAN DESIGN After the initial collection debuted in an Antwerp pop-up shop, bow tie brand Comme les Loups was discovered by Belgian tailors Café Costume and has since gone on to be stocked in a number of retailers.

Each model is designed and manufactured in Belgium and is provided with an individual name and quote. Besides the regular collection, the brand also offers a custom made service, whereby clients can choose from a range of fabrics, models and sizes to create their own bespoke bow tie.

—

>>>

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

POLICE SUNGLASSES Police presents its s/s 16 collection with a series of on-trend gradient flash reflective lenses with classic double bridge design. Expressing the ‘urban soul’ of the global brand, the collection features frames with bold, contemporary shapes, designed with a unique combination of materials and colour palettes. With vintage detailing inspired by the origins of the brand, the collection remains one of its strongest to date.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 22

RADAR Spotlighting style

EAST MEETS STYLE

SAAT ESTABLISHED: 2015 HISTORY: Sajna Weber & Thorsten Bulander established the brand last year with a desire to bring something different to the table.

SIGNATURE STYLE: Inspired by distinct craftsmanship and classic design, the brand focuses style around functionality and simplicity. Aesthetically, products are stripped back to reveal only the essential elements.

Saat presents both a range of ready to wear apparel and leather bags in its offering of minimalist design pieces. In the range of apparel, tailored items utilise simple detail to echo a high level of craftsmanship. Silhouettes are kept simple through clean lines found throughout the range of shirts and blouses, which are made using materials sourced from Japan, Italy and Germany. Available in key shapes including totes, weekend bags and backpacks, the brand’s line of leather bags presents a minimalist aesthetic and a clean silhouette. Smooth grain leather in solid natural colours combines with rough cotton fabrics for a product which channels effortless functionality through a simplified construction. Saat’s range of deconstructed classics and reconstructed tailored options are aimed at the high-end market. Typically, the brand’s international customer base is aged 35-50 and is design conscious, buying into timeless, quality pieces which present a level of high quality craftsmanship. Wholesale prices are available on request.

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East London label N1SQ continues to impress with its street inspired designs, taking to contemporary tradeshow Jacket Required earlier this year to present its latest collection.

Comprising an earthy colour palette of stones, graphite, khaki and hints of chalky pink, the brand’s new jersey silhouette nods to the 90s with oversized dropped shoulders, distressed hems and subtle washes. Outerwear, meanwhile, takes a premium twist, with highlights including aviator jackets in dusty khaki and borg-lined bomber jackets.

—

NEWS ADVENTURES AND INNOVATIONS Outdoor lifestyle label Craghoppers introduces a series of exclusive innovations into its collection for the a/w 16 season.

Spanning outdoor lifestyle, outdoor pro and outdoor classic, Craghoppers has added new styles to build the ultimate all-weather wardrobe.

Within each collection, the technologies remain consistent including Thermal Control, Aqua Dry and Thermo AIR+. The 250 jacket, for example, is made from Aqua Dry waterproof and breathable fabric in a cleanly cut Mac style with baffled Compress Lite insulation, making it ideal for the city commuter. The Finch, meanwhile, is Craghoppers’ new heavyweight jacket containing high loft wadding for unbeatable insulation in cold weather, with handwarmer and patch pockets for a country look. Finally, the Response Compress Lite jacket builds on the brand’s signature lightweight insulated technology.

With slimmer baffles and contrasting colour to arms and body, this style offers a more youthful look and feel.

—

Since 1976

TRADITIONAL CHANNEL ISLAND KNITWEAR

• • • • •

British Wool | Natural | Sustainable

Guernsey Knitwear hand-crafted since 1976 100% pure British Wool Tailored customer service Manufacturing flexibility No minimum order quantities

Born in the islands’ seafaring communities our traditional Guernsey sweaters have a rich history and a hard-wearing reputation. They are knitted with close stitches from tightly twisted Worsted wool and this gives the ability to withstand sea spray and rain. The result is a strong, long lasting garment that will hold its shape better in both wear and washing.

8 Victoria Street, Alderney, Guernsey, Channel Islands, GY9 3UF

|

Tel. 01481 822 202

|

Email sales@channeljumper.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 24

CAMEL ACTIVE €39.95 020 7736 0230

PETER MILLAR PRICE ON REQUEST 01908 513910

JOULES £10.40 01858 435255

SIMON + SIMON £20 SALES@SIMONANDSIMONONLINE.COM

BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL £49.95 0800 917 3000

GLOVERALL £28 01604 812812

SKOPES FROM £14 0113 240 2211

EARN YOUR STRIPES From Breton, to regatta and humbug, stripes are again proving to be a popular choice for the summer months, with many brands utilising the pattern in their collections. Spanning tailoring through to accessories, interest is added with illustration and ombre finishes.

— Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

REALM & EMPIRE £14.80 01858 466729

DANIEL WELLINGTON £149 01494 486220

A FISH NAMED FRED £28 0031 2061 73685

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 26

WAVEN £12.07 020 7739 7620

SUNDAY SOMEWHERE PRICE ON REQUEST 01992 351026 QUIKSILVER £14.80 020 7392 4020

CALIFORNIA LOVE With such a strong music scene combined with its distinctive laid-back fashion, it’s no surprise Los Angeles is having its moment in menswear right now. From classic baseball tops to bucket hats and backpacks, s/s 16 will see a strong West Coast influence across apparel, footwear and accessories.

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PARKA LONDON £79.50 020 7424 6889

BOXFRESH £27 020 8371 7531 BENCH £6 07976 733210

STANCE £4.78 001 949 3919 030

WON HUNDRED PRICE ON REQUEST 0045 3616 0904

NATIVE YOUTH £11.50 0161 835 2064

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

chatham.co.uk 01392 822 981

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | PROFILE | 28

RIDE CULTURE MOVES UP A GEAR IN BRISTOL One year in and Spoke & Stringer’s concept shop featuring motorcycle customisation, surfboard and bicycle designs and related apparel, not to mention the cafe/bar and restaurant, is winning over the locals at its location in The Boathouse on Bristol’s Harbourside.

Tom Bottomley talks lifestyle with founder Kristian Crews.

—

Originally on a surfing trip to Indonesia for a few months, Kristian Crews ran out of money and headed to Western Australia. Within a week he landed an engineering consulting role, which turned into a four-year stint, bringing plenty more surfing with it.

While in Perth, he says he saw a Scandinavian furniture shop-come-pizza restaurant and cocktail bar, with an art gallery – some mix there – “absolutely killing it.” He thought that if he could have somewhere where he could talk about all the things he liked to talk about, namely surfing, motorcycles, bicycles and clothing and accessories that fit in with the lifestyle, combined with somewhere to eat and drink, then he’d be onto a winner. Easier said than done.

After Crews reached 13 visa stamps for his various trips to Indonesia, he started to miss the likes of France, Portugal and Morocco being “on the doorstep with bucket loads of culture and

history to delve into.” That’s when Bristol beckoned. Actually the city was close to his family, and also, he says, a happy medium between the lifestyle of Devon and Cornwall and bright lights of London. “Being from Devon originally, I knew it was a pretty dark place to be in the winter, and I wanted to be surrounded by more of a ‘scene’,” he says. “There’s actually a massive surf, outdoors and active lifestyle community in Bristol who moved here for work, but didn’t want to commit to the big smoke.”

Back in Bristol, the wheels starting turning for his idea to open a concept shop-come-cafe/ bar and restaurant, and Spoke & Stringer was launched at The Boathouse development on Bristol’s Harbourside in April 2015. Initially the local reaction was not the best. “They didn’t seem to want a bar, and I had to watch myself when I mentioned motorbikes,” Crews offers. “Also, there was a bit of ‘What is it you actually sell in

here? Are you a bike shop or what?’ The term ‘lifestyle’ is kind of a hard sell to some.”

But Crews persevered, and with a great head chef in the restaurant, he now says they probably do the best tapas in Bristol. The location, “a little sun trap at water level,” is also an appealing place to hang out. Crews says the cafe and shop are both very industrial and rustic in design: “a better-looking version of my garage, essentially.” He’s also strived to keep the shop fairly minimal, not wanting to overcrowd the rails and walls. “I just wanted products to stand out from the other side of the room – and draw people to them,” he explains.

In terms of apparel, Spoke & Stringer sells brands including Marine Machine, Makia, Ontour, Deus Ex Machina, Finisterre, TCSS and Oh Dawn.

“I have some friends in the industry with their own brands and I wanted to support them as well as heading to the Seek, Capsule and Jacket

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | PROFILE | 29

Required shows in Berlin, Paris and London. I also really look for brands that have a story, and who try different cuts and patterns while still making ‘approachable’ fashion. A new addition to the brand mix is Elvine, and I’m looking forward to seeing how that goes down with our customers. I love the simplicity, the materials and the patterns cut by that brand.”

Accessories from Ashley Watson are also popular with Crews’ clientele. “We stock a range of his belts and wallets which are second to none, alongside things from Men’s Society, Portland and Iron & Resin. We also only stock one bag supplier, Stighlorgan. They are just the best and sell really well for us.” Brixton, with its cool hats, and Clae shoes also get a mention. “Things seem to change every day. We need to adapt to a changing market, understand what our customers really want and play on the things that sell really well, all the while sticking to our core values, of course.”

There is also now a Spoke & Stringer own label that’s been introduced in the initial form of a range of T-shirts made from 70 per cent bamboo and 30 per cent organic cotton, which includes a line of raglan sleeve options. “It’s very simple, and just a starting point,” says Crews. “But we are hoping to develop the brand and are currently waiting on a new batch that’s being produced in Portugal. Eventually, we’d love to get into the wholesale market too – starting small, and doing some ‘Sale or Return’ with stores in the UK and France. As well as some collaborations with UK based designers that I’m most interested in.”

“ There’s actually a massive surf, outdoors and active lifestyle community in Bristol who moved here for work, but didn’t want to commit to the big smoke.”

Crews also says he will soon be working with his friends at BEE Clothing, having collaborated with them before on a pop-up project at Boxpark.

“We’re going to be doing another one in Covent Garden around the end of April,” he reveals. All of which helps to spread the Spoke & Stringer word. It’s a name that’s certainly got a ring to it, and the logo on the website looks strong, with the ‘Ride Culture’ strapline in smaller letters underneath.

“I initially racked my brains for a couple of days thinking about components of things I liked when coming up with the name,” offers Crews.

“Essentially, a ‘Spoke’ holds a wheel together and gives it strength, and a ‘Stringer’ does a very similar thing for a surfboard; it’s the run of wood down the centre of the board. I originally messed around on PowerPoint making logos, but failed to come up with anything I liked, so I got a local designer to work on the type.”

Bicycles sold in the shop include custom models they put together themselves, as well as bikes from brands such as Foffa and Temple Cycles, which are both based in England. “They are really well engineered bikes and a middle range price point, which we find works best for the Bristol market,” says Crews. Custom motorcycles and surf boards, as well as wetsuits from the likes of Finisterre, are complemented by lifestyle magazines such as Huck, Boneshaker and Sideburn. “We appeal to anyone in the surf,

motorcycle and cycling scenes, along with people just looking for ways in which to escape the city,” says Crews.

“I think because we provide an overall lifestyle and cultural experience – from the food and drink we serve to the retail aspect, and the events we run, like the Bristol Surf Film Festival, that’s our differentiator. Basically, we get stuck in!” And getting stuck in also includes covering kitchen shifts, working the coffee machine and running the shop side, though he does have a “first-class head chef,” to run the kitchen properly.

‘Living the dream’, or living the life which he espouses at least, is something he gets to do on his time off. “Monday to Wednesday are my days,” he offers. “Thankfully the roads are less busy and there’s half as many people in the water when the surf’s good. Ride culture is a phrase I coined to try and sum up this weird obsession I have with freedom, escaping, being myself and being a bit rebellious. And that seems to surround motorcycles and surfing.”

They are certainly obsessions shared by countless people, if not often put together in the same hat. But with original inspiration for Spoke & Stringer coming from a Scandinavian furniture shop in Perth, combined with a pizza restaurant/ cocktail bar, with an art gallery attached, a shop concept for Crews was always going to be something far from obvious. Spoke & Stringer achieves that, with some character.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | WATCHES | 30

SIMON CARTER

HENRY LONDON

ELLIOT BROWN

SIMON CARTER

TRADITIONAL TIMEPIECE REVIVAL Despite the new wave of ‘smart’ watches, with Apple leading the way with wristwear that not only tells the time, but checks your heart rate and allows wearers to pay for things with a flick of the wrist, there appears to be a revival of interest in more traditional watches – as Tom Bottomley discovers.

— The watches of the future are among us. Yet despite that – and so many people these days relying upon their mobile phones to tell the time – just like the vinyl records revival that’s been taking place among younger consumers and old vinyl lovers rekindling their love alike, there’s also a renaissance in interest in traditional timepieces.

Though it’s probably more about the aesthetic than the function these days.

It’s a phenomenon that Ben Andrew, senior buyer of men’s fashion at Liberty, seized on for the independent department store’s thriving men’s accessories area. He says: “Watches started to become big for us around 18 months ago. Since then we have expanded our brand mix; the success of this has warranted a larger, more central location. It drives some of the highest sales density on the floor.”

Maybe surprisingly, it’s the more classic styles that are attracting the fashion consumers at Liberty. “Our watch business is centred around a traditional watch aesthetic that has been given a more contemporary update,” explains Andrew.

“The functional use of a watch is almost redundant these days, so they are very much bought as a fashion accessory by someone who appreciates the design.”

Two brands in particular have really proved successful to Liberty’s watches offer. Says Andrew: “Our best selling brands are Larsson & Jennings and Junghans. These complement each other really nicely: Larsson & Jennings is a highquality quartz watch retailing for £220 to £350, whereas most of our Junghans sales are on their

automatic watches which start at £895. Despite the price difference, both brands share a very clean, minimal and classic design aesthetic.”

Simon Carter, creative director of the Simon Carter brand, has also noticed a surge in interest in more classic timepieces. “There is a definite move towards ‘rediscovering’ the wristwatch among a younger consumer,” says Carter. “They see the watch as almost ironic.”

Ian Elliot, founder and managing director of the Elliot Brown watch brand, which launched three years ago, believes that “simple and elegant is best.” He says: “For our customers, there’s a real difference between the wearable digital tech, viewed more as an appliance, and a traditional watch bought more for emotional reasons.” Elliot says there are a number of reasons that people connect with more traditional watches, ranging from fashion, craftsmanship, brand, specific function, longevity, family tradition and status. “There’s something tremendously comforting wearing the same thing for years and seeing it gaining a fingerprint all of its own.” The ‘Canford’ watch in the Elliot Brown range is currently the bestseller, retailing at between £325 and £500. “It’s a combination of clean design language, solidity, elegance, price and function,” he says.

Henry London is another new watch brand on the market, launched at Baselworld in 2015. It’s an own brand from the Peers Hardy Group, a company that has been making and distributing watches for other brands, such as Radley London and Orla Kiely, for years. The whole premise of

the launch was based around a classic man’s watch from the 1960s found at Portobello Market, bearing an inscription on the back reading: ‘Henry, August 1965.’

Paul Harry, sales and marketing director for the Peers Hardy Group, says: “A lot of consumers are craving simplicity in this time of tech advancement. Vintage is no longer a trend, it’s a way of life, and so for that reason our brand relevance is far reaching. We’ve had feedback that the watches remind consumers of a style their father or grandfather owned. We have people who love the brand who are in their 20s and people who love it in their 80s, so our fanbase is very varied.” The Henry London watches retail for around the £100-£135 mark, and Selfridges and ASOS are current stockists, with John Lewis and House of Fraser launching with the brand soon.

Elsewhere there’s brands of the ilk of Filson, the outdoor company based in Seattle, that took the lead of its sister company, Shinola, under the Bedrock Manufacturing umbrella, by launching a watch collection in March 2015 made at Shinola’s Detroit factory. The watches are now a major focus for the brand’s accessories shop on London’s Newburgh Street – where Shinola also has a store selling its own line of watches, as well as its other accessories ranges.

In this digital day and age, it seems the more traditional wristwatch is far from dead and buried.

In fact, sleek and simple watches are now the new of-the-moment accessory, even if the new ‘smart’ watches can do everything bar the ironing.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | PRODUCT | 32

p SIMON CARTER £14.70 020 8683 4475

p BYREDO RRP £50 0046 8525 02615

p HJ HALL £2.50 01455 638800

LIFE & STYLE MWB presents a comprehensive collection of lifestyle products, from homeware through to literature and leather goods.

— p PASSAVANT AND LEE PRICE ON REQUEST 001 917 794 8165

p SWCO £42 020 7739 9988

p WOODSTYLZ PRICE ON REQUEST 0031 0650 664143

p MICK ROCK – THE RISE OF DAVID BOWIE, 1972-1973 PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7845 8585

p FOX UMBRELLAS PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8662 0022

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p MEN’S SOCIETY £22.22 01406 362633

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p ALLY CAPELLINO X NORWEGIAN RAIN £105 020 7613 3073

p TOM DIXON PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7183 9733

p WANT LES ESSENTIELS PRICE ON REQUEST 001 212 229 9888

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p GRUHME PRICE ON REQUEST 0333 400 3124

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | FOOTWEAR | 34

FOOTWEAR FORECAST From chukkas to Chelsea boots, MWB takes a look at what the new season has in store for some of the key names in men’s footwear.

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BASE LONDON p

BOGS FOOTWEAR Known for its innovative technology and original prints, Bogs Footwear has announced the Johnny Chukka waterproof leather boot (pictured), designed to keep feet dry and comfortable during the winter months. With full-grain waterproof leather and sealed seams to offer protection from the elements, the chukka boot also uses Bogs’ Max-Wick lining, designed to move sweat away from feet, as well as boasting DuraFresh bio-technology to fight odours. Each boot is equipped with a soft leather footbed with dual-density EVA and Ortholite technology that provides optimal comfort along with a BioGrip, slip-resistant lugged outsole.

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Paying tribute to its heritage, Base London celebrates its 21st anniversary with its new XXI collection. Underlining how far the brand has come since its launch in 1995, the new range draws inspiration from the 1990s. A series of evening-inspired patent shoes lead the collection, all featuring the XXI’s distinctive red and club striped inner.

Traditional Oxford-toed styles and Oxford brogues share the spotlight with a double monk-strap style and a derby boot – all in patent leathers as well as more conventional leather looks.

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NPS SHOES LTD

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BARKER Following a successful a/w 15 season, Barker is back with a number of new additions to its a/w 16 collection. New styles include the Haig (pictured), a toe cap derby model added to the brand’s Creative Collection. Made in a G (wide) fitting, this runs alongside the successful McClean style. Other new additions to the range include embossed leathers, plaited welts and lace-up boots with a quilted collar. In terms of colours, buyers can expect to see the introduction of dark brown grain, which has already been well received at trade exhibitions throughout the buying season.

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A family-run business in the heart of Northamptonshire, NPS Shoes has been manufacturing footwear since 1881, using the Goodyear welting process. As well as supplying key private business accounts, the brand also offers four ranges available on a wholesale basis – NPS Heritage, NPS City Collection, Solovair Premium and Solovair Lifestyle (pictured). The NPS Heritage collection, for example, features seven new styles over four colourways, using burnished calf and scotch grain leathers. These can be ordered with Leather or Dainite sole, whilst the Solovair Lifestyle range utilises the same upper leathers as the Heritage collection but with a PVC Solovair sole.

Available from an in-stock service direct from the factory, retailers are able to take advantage of shorter lead times and no minimums.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | FOOTWEAR | 35

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LOAKE

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CHATHAM Footwear label Chatham presents one of its most comprehensive collections to date, comprising key shoe staples from brogues to ankle boots and desert boots. Hero styles include the Lewis, a Goodyear welted brogue in a premium leather upper with British tweed inserts; the Kirk, which is a Goodyear welted Chelsea boot with a premium suede upper on a Dainite sole; and the Buckingham, a leather brogue with full leather lining, padded leather sock and Goodyear welted construction on a contrast nonmarking rubber sole. Finally, Pitt (pictured) is the collection’s Made in Britain handstitched model, in premium leather with contrasting sole, incorporating memory foam.

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The a/w 16 season at British footwear specialist Loake balances tradition with modernity, combing classic shapes with new leathers and design details. Traditional almond toe shaped styles partner with natural edged or hardwearing rubber Goodyear welted soles, while uppers feature rich burnished leather combinations and details such as hiking fastenings, decorative punching and coloured leather linings.

A highlight for the season is the new Funnelweb Spider brogue (pictured). Introduced in the premium Loake 1880 range, this Goodyear welted two-tone style incorporates inset panels in contrasting and tonal leathers.

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J SHOES Celebrating 20 years since inception, J Shoes continues to blend British heritage, traditional craftsmanship and modern design. Under the new creative direction of designer Kate Ridges, the a/w 16 collection is rich in texture, inspired by rugged and organic elements. Highlights include the raw leather Midwich premium range, while reinterpretations of brogues and chukka boots provide tough yet smart winter essentials. This season also sees the introduction of a new brogue, the Spencer (pictured), featuring tumbled leathers and a stained sole with wire-brush effect, offering an interesting update to the classic Charlie brogue.

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NICHOLAS DEAKINS The a/w 16 season sees British menswear label Nicholas Deakins release its Anniversary Collection, celebrating 25 years of style.

Having been stocked by some of the UK’s biggest retailers such as Psyche, Flannels, Strand and Accent, the brand plays on its strong heritage for the new season. A collaboration with rainwear specialists Peter Storm will be key, featuring a dual branded technical and water-resistant boot (pictured), alongside a capsule clothing collection. A special anniversary logo has been commissioned that features flyers from the legendary Leeds venues of the brand’s early years and will feature on swing tickets, graphic tees and POS. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | MODA GENT | 36

MODA: TREND REPORT Victoria Jackson was on hand at the most recent edition of Moda Gent, spotting the latest trends to emerge for the new season from some of the biggest names in contemporary and mainstream menswear.

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FYNCH HATTON

7 SQUARE

ROSS BARR

J SHOES

BENVENUTO

GOODWIN SMITH

GABICCI

CHATHAM

LAYER CAKE

INTO THE BLUE

A winter staple, ideal for layering under blazers and jackets, the fine knit cardigan was spotted throughout the key menswear brands at Moda Gent this season. Offering a relaxed alternative to the blazer, brands such as Benvenuto and Fynch Hatton presented ribbed shawl collared cardigans, designed to be teamed with shirts. Gabicci, meanwhile, continued its love of the 70s with contrasting panel details, whilst British designer Ross Barr’s eponymous label showcased its debut collection at the trade show which included a handcrafted knit in Scottish wool, and intricate metal clasp detailing.

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A colourful alternative to the signature palette of tan and black, footwear received an injection of blue this season. Shades from petrol through to the brighter end of cobalt could be found across the board, from formal styles such as brogues at 7 Square and desert boots at Chatham through to informal trainer styles at Goodwin Smith and lace-ups at J Shoes. In terms of texture, this is one shade which worked just as well with suede as it did in patent leather.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | MODA GENT | 37

MISH MASH

ETERNA

6TH SENSE

BLEND

VENTI

PEREGRINE

D555

OLYMP

EDEN PARK

COLOURS & SONS

HAWKINS & SHEPHERD

CASUAL FRIDAY

MODERN CAMO

DARK SIDE

A FINE LINE

Although a favourite for many seasons now, camouflage took a good few years to make its move into the more mainstream collections.

This season, however, sees the reworking of the familiar pattern with oversized and graphic prints featured at the likes of Blend, while Colours & Sons added a camo fine knit jumper to its staple offering. Fast fashion label D555 captured the young, streetwear influence, whilst the likes of Mish Mash offered a more trend-led look with its purple and black print bomber, complete with suede effect contrasting sleeves.

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A key category for Moda Gent, shirting continued to present essential trends for the new season, including the prominent use of a monochromatic colour palette. Moving away from the floral prints of late, brands took a modern approach, with linear graphics seen at German brand Eterna and oversized polka dots at contemporary label Venti. Olymp, meanwhile, dedicated a complete segment to black and white with contrasting inside collar and cuff details, while premium British label Hawkins & Shepherd offered a statement monochrome checked model.

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One of the easiest trends to wear, it’s hardly surprising stripes refuse to go away. Whilst the Breton tee remains a signature in any man’s wardrobe, brands are now putting their own slant on things across all categories, including statement outerwear at French lifestyle brand Eden Park, and humbug striped tops at Casual Friday. A visible trend throughout was the use of contrasting striped sleeves, as seen at 6th Sense teamed with a co-ordinating body warmer, and at British label Peregrine, which presented a statement knit with a contrasting cuff and collar design.

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OUR NEW INSTOCK FOOTWEAR COLLECTIONS sales@nps-solovair.co.uk +44 (0) 1933664207

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | JACKET REQUIRED | 39

THE EDIT The tenth edition of Jacket Required presented some of the most original and innovative product in menswear, with MWB on hand to shoot some of the highlights for a/w 16.

— ARMOR LUX

KESTIN HARE

AUTUMN ADDITIONS LE COQ SPORTIF

JOLLIE GOODS

Menswear rarely ventures outside of navy, grey and black. Green, however, was a welcome addition for this season, with several brands introducing extensive ranges featuring the colour to their overall collection. Though alternative to the typical classic palette, green works with all staples – including denim.

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LEE

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | JACKET REQUIRED | 40

DICKIES

JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN

ELVINE

LA PAZ X KINFOLK

ONLY & SONS

THE NEW NEUTRAL The season utilises a neutral colour palette to create the modern-day minimalistic wardrobe. Designers have moved on from the colour camel, opting for greys and washed-out alternatives for the growing brand enthusiast. — SPRING COURT

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | JACKET REQUIRED | 41

KOMONO

KOMONO

INDIGOFERA

BARACUTA

GH BASS

ICONS British style and fashion often finds itself defined through subculture. Each season, iconic pieces of clothing are altered ever so slightly so as to not break the formula of a staple classic. Meanwhile, brands are becoming more conscious of accessorising as a way to freshen up their collections. —

MARSHALL ARTIST

INDIGOFERA

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | JACKET REQUIRED | 42

JACKET REQUIRED BRAND TALK New launches, relaunches, capsule anniversary collections and fresh products aplenty were all to be found at the latest edition of Jacket Required. Tom Bottomley did the rounds to get the details.

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ASHLEY DEVERELL MARKETING MANAGER UK & IRELAND, K-SWISS

JAMES GREENLEES EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN, GYMPHLEX

What’s new for the brand’s 50th anniversary?

We’ve remade the ‘classic 66’ all-leather white tennis shoe – the first product K-Swiss ever produced – in the USA, to the original specifications of the first ever shoe. It’s a limited edition of 1,966 pairs, and it will be available in the UK exclusively at the top stores such as Oi Polloi, Hanon and size?. That sits at the top of our new product. There’s also an additional seven styles, more modern takes on our traditional most popular styles, that we’re launching as part of the anniversary.

What’s the made in Portugal collection?

That will drop in stores in August, and it’s the first time we’ve done a product range made in Portugal. It’s about premium detailing and a bit more minimal branding. It looks back to our three-piece toe, with D-ring lace system – originally inspired by skiing boots.

What’s the skiing boot connection to K-Swiss about?

The brand was founded by two Swiss brothers, who went to America to become tennis players. Being Swiss, skiing played a big part of their early lives, and they saw how the design of skiing boots aided lateral movement from left to right. So they implemented the same design in to their first tennis shoes back in 1966. The five stripes you see down the side of K-Swiss shoes actually stem from the binding that you see down the sides of skiing boots.

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What’s your family connection to the Gymphlex brand?

I’m actually the fourth generation of the family who owns Gymphlex. It was founded in 1906, predominantly making sportswear for universities and schools.

What’s the made in Japan collection?

We used to manufacture in the UK, where we had three factories, but we started to move production out of Japan some 25 years ago now. We have a business worth about £15m in Japan at the moment, and we’re in all the top stores there such as Edifice, Tomorrowland, SHIPS, Beams and Isetan. This is the first time we’ve opened up this collection to the UK market at wholesale. We’re looking for some key partners to work with. There’s some great heavy flannel check shirts in the line, including button-down and grandad shirt collar options.

Is there also a made in UK collection again?

Yes, we’re launching it here now. It’s all made in Leicester and Nottinghamshire. We’re based in Leicester, and that’s where the brand was originally founded. It’s a very simple, clean collection, all made from looking at the archives. There’s some subtle branding, and we’re using great quality fabrics – all made in Leicester as well. There’s some really strong heavy jersey pieces, and fine gauge jersey as well. The sweatshirts, jogging bottoms and shorts are key. We’ve also introduced striped cotton socks again, based on our rugby heritage. There’s also the traditional rugby jerseys which we were so well known for.

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PAUL BATISTA HEAD OF SALES, YOGI SHOES Is this the relaunch of the old Duffer of St George footwear brand from the mid 1990s?

Indeed it is. It originally referenced the Earth Shoes and Roots footwear worn by Soul Boys and Rastas in the mid to late 70s. They were Portuguese and Spanish-made negative heel, asymmetric shoes. Staying true to the brand’s original ethos for the relaunch, we’re also using a specialist moccasin factory in Portugal, as well as using premium materials. It’s predominantly about hand-crafted, unlined moccasins, with either Vibram or crepe sole units.

Is the timing right to bring Yogi back?

That whole look is relevant again, with brands like Yuketen and Quoddy. But we’re also offering something a little bit different in the form of a sneaker which is a little bit more crafted than a lot of other kind of Common Projects derivatives out there in the market at the moment. I think there’s a gap in the market for that kind of product, but at a more accessible price point. We will be retailing at between £110-£140, depending on the style.

It’s still a fairly premium price point, but competitive at the same time. For instance, I can’t find a Vibram sole boot in the market currently selling for less than £160.

Who’s been showing interest in selling it?

All the premium retailers who remember the brand from the first time around, but also specialist retailers like size?. We can sit alongside brands such as Clarks Originals, G.H. Bass and Sperry, so it’s an interesting development of that sneaker market in to ‘brown shoe product’.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | JACKET REQUIRED | 43

NICK KILLICK FOOTWEAR SALES MANAGER, BARBOUR

DEAN BATTY SALES REPRESENTATIVE, CHEFDEVILLE

KESTIN HARE MANAGING DIRECTOR, KESTIN HARE

How long has Barbour footwear been available?

It’s been in the market for about three years now. The reason it was introduced was because we wanted to be a ‘head to toe’ brand, across men’s, women’s and kids’.

Footwear was the final piece in the jigsaw.

Does it reflect the Barbour outerwear?

We try to put all the DNA that you’d expect in the outerwear, into the footwear, such as the quilting, tartan linings and waxed cotton inserts in heel pieces. We’re also using premium leathers, as well as some waterproof leathers – which all ties in to what the brand is about. The majority of the line is certainly weatherproof and water resistant, but the fully waterproof shoes are seam sealed.

What are the key areas?

The ‘Lifestyle’ range is the biggest area for us, as you’d expect. We’re using the ‘walking man’ logo on the sole of the shoes, which stems from an original Barbour logo from the 1920s.

We’re also using a Commando outsole on the ‘Country’ range. Those boots are harder wearing, more rugged. They are heavily water resistant, seam sealed and feature hydrophobic leathers – water just beads off it, so it won’t penetrate through the leather.

Is it the first time you’ve brought the collection to Jacket Required?

It is. We’ve done Moda before, and we got a good lifestyle customer basis there, but the brand has such a wide appeal – with a fashion customer as well as a country customer – so we want to target a higher profile, predominantly independent, account base with it too. We do already sell in the likes of Aspecto. And our accessories, particularly the bags, are performing strongly as well.

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Is this a relaunch of the Chefdeville jeans brand?

It is indeed. It’s a Parisian brand that was last in the UK market about 10 years ago. In fact UK retailers had a really good time with it back then. The product was strong and the price points were good for them to make decent a decent margin. Ringing around the last few weeks, and speaking to some of the old retailers that carried Chefdeville previously, they remember it with affection. They always remember the things they didn’t do well with, or the things that they did very well with.

Why was it taken off the market if they had such a successful time?

I think they lost their way. It went a bit ‘glam’ with pleated pockets and diamante! They followed the trends but I don’t think they should have taken that route. It’s now a lot cleaner and easier, with one main fit and four different interpretations with regard to detail.

The creased denim looks good, with a tapered leg. There’s also a selvedge jean that’s made in Paris in their own factory. That’s at the top of the price spectrum, wholesaling at £45, but the prices for Chefdeville jeans actually start at £22. Aside from denim, there’s also canvas and cotton twill jeans. It’s all bottoms, and that’s all it needs to be. We’re targeting independents with it, the usual crowd really.

We’re also showing my brand, Sock and Trotter, and McAlson underwear from Belgium. They’ve been making great boxer shorts for many years.

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When did you launch your own brand?

We delivered the first collection for s/s 15. The old Common People brand was effectively rebranded as Kestin Hare. My former Japanese distributor came in to refinance everything, allowing us to take it forward and start the store roll-out. We’ve taken over the old women’s Start store on Rivington Street in Shoreditch, which is 2,400 square feet with a showroom downstairs, where we also distribute brands from Japan, such as Haversack and Still by Hand in to the UK – also showing at Jacket Required. We also have 40 doors in Japan now with Kestin Hare, which is great, as well as 30 independents selling it in the UK. Where are you opening other Kestin Hare stores in the UK? We’re about to open one in Glasgow, and we’re going to have two in Edinburgh, as well as another shop in London, this time in Soho, set to open at the end of March. That will make a total of five stores, and we’re really starting to bang on with the wholesale side too, with the likes of Harvey Nichols, The Content Store, W2, Psyche and ODE all on board.

How does the Kestin Hare offer differ from Common People?

It’s much more sophisticated, and more of a ‘label’ as opposed to a ‘brand’ as such. It’s a bit more grown up, and the appeal now is a real cross-section. Jackets are still a big focus, and we make everything in the UK where we can.

In fact about 80 per cent of it is made here, with some jersey and shirting coming out of Portugal.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | PEOPLE | 44

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK BOHEM ART HOTEL 1056 BUDAPEST, MOLNÁR U. 35.

SIMON SAYS As part of the ageing process, I find myself invited to be a non executive director, or give panel talks, or join august trade bodies. On the whole, I’m happy to give back something to the industry that’s supported me for over 30 years, and given me an agreeable, if permanently somewhat stressful, way of life. I accept these invitation in the same way that I have stopped counting the grey hairs and focus on the few with any colour, and in much the same way that I am no longer able to have an evening of non stop Negronis, white wine and foolishly little food, and then have all my wits about me at a House of Fraser range review the next day.

Thus it was that I attended an excellent dinner at the beautiful Home House in London’s Portman Square. “If all else fails to engage me,” I thought, “at least I can gaze at the Adam interiors.”

I needn’t have worried; the evening was entertaining and enlightening. A mixture of old acquaintances and a quite excellent afterdinner speaker ensured that the cornices and pilasters drew scarce a glance.

As the evening drew to a close, I began to chat to a guest at my table who, due to the ebb and flow of the conversation, I’d not had a chance to speak to. Almost immediately, the issue of the EU referendum came up. He was a serial fashion retailer entrepreneur, who has bought and sold a number of very well known high street businesses and who seemed wordly, urbane and shrewd. To my surprise, it became immediately clear that he passionately believed that Britain should leave.

When I queried this, the look he gave me suggested that to hold the view that we should stay was as rational as attempting to teach foxes to knit.

I covered my surprise at his vehemence and tried to establish why he held such views. “Surely,” I said, “the economic argument is compelling?” “We give £50m a day to the EU and all we get is bloody migrants,” he said. “But what about free movement of people to come here to work? Without such migration, our economy would collapse.” I gave the example of a business I’m investing in; a start-up cake and coffee shop where the best applicant for the manager role was a Greek national who came here for the interview, and stayed, and is proving excellent.

I usually finish my column with a whimsical or pithy line, but this is too serious for that. Let us hope that the leave and remain arguments are better set out than my fellow guest’s.

Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

Launched in February 2011, Bohem Art Hotel was created from a desire to run a unique boutique hotel with a hip design and an arts-based concept.

Typical visitors to the hotel are those seeking a non-traditional and nonchain hotel which also maintains a trendy aesthetic and friendly vibe. A varied and impressive artwork collection from the owner’s private collection decorates the hotel interior, with each room presenting a unique print on the wall. Fusing the workings of a hotel with the design qualities of an art gallery, eclectic design is promoted throughout the space, as seen in the quirky loft-style rooms and dining area. Ideally located next to the Danube River, the hotel is based within a 19th-century factory building, which used to be a factory where Schutz-passes were produced in 1944. The passes served as fake Swedish passports and were used to protect Hungarian Jews during the Second World War. —

PLAN B

PHIL JONES creative director, Peter Werth

If I hadn’t started working in the menswear industry, I think I would have been an artist, painting or model-making for a living.

— Obviously, it’s a pretty tough industry to make much money from, but it was the choice I had to make when I was at art college. I would base myself along the river in the Conwy Valley, where I grew up. It’s one of the most stunning parts of Wales. You couldn’t help but be inspired by the incredible light and the breathtaking landscapes the area has in abundance. Being an artist would probably allow me to spend more time with the family. I like the work/ life balance being an artist would give me. When I wasn’t painting or exploring the great Welsh outdoors, I would collect Danish furniture and relax with a nice glass of red wine.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | PEOPLE | 45

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL ARISTIDES VANIS DESIGNER First of all, I have to say that I don’t really like cold weather but since I live in London one of my all-time favourite pieces is a homemade sheepskin coat from Poland that my father gave to me after his trip there. He told me that the woman who made it lives in a small little village outside Krakow and its technical work and craftsmanship are just beyond amazing.

— Shirts are also important for me. I have around 10. Most of them with prints, but the one that I really love is a classic from Lacoste with a tiny crocodile stitched on the chest. Another of my all-time classics is a pair of John Galliano newspaper print trousers, which they don’t produce anymore. This specific pair has real letters from fans to the house of Galliano. The whole aesthetic is the typical British newspaper printed on trousers. They are made in Italy and the details are amazing. Another piece I really like is a superb sweater from Iceberg from the time when Jean-Charles de Castelbajac was there. It has Aladdin woven on the front, and the decorations are embroidered. Iceberg, together with Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, were the first to collaborate every season with Disney and Looney Tunes.

— For the hottest days, and when I enjoy the poolside, my lovely Orlebar Brown swim trunks fit the bill. For me, every season they do something really decent and the quality is always really strong. The pair I have is from the collaboration with Alan Aldridge, and they bear a picture of a woman’s body painted as a face.

— A silk bomber jacket from my own previous collection is one for more sunny days.

The print of a chubby man gets the attention from everyone who I pass. My love for prints is indescribable, and I always prefer something that is bold. My oversized printed T-shirt, with large ‘laughing cow’ print, is another item I can’t go wrong with from my wardrobe.

TOP TWEETS Mark Ferguson @Markfergusonuk Jamie Oliver will be happy about sugar tax.

But has he realised forced academisation of schools may mean return of the turkey twizzler?

De Montfort Uni DMU @dmuleicester ‘They come back feeling more focused than before’ - #DMU students showcase designs in Paris Retail Week @RetailWeek Poundland boss Jim McCarthy says “we don’t sell £1 products. We sell products for a £1. There’s a difference.” #RWL16 Esquire Magazine @EsquireUK So there will be a 5th ‘Indiana Jones’. Is this good news? Or flogging a (very) dead horse?

Chuka Umunna @ChukaUmunna Business tax cuts for small biz are welcome but will Osborne compensate local govt. for fall in business rate revenue? #Budget2016 Dr. Martens @drmartens How do you wear your Docs? Tag with #drmartensyle for a chance to feature.

Bob Kostic @causticbob An Irish man walks out of a bar...... really it can’t happen. #StPatricksDay CHUCS @bychucs Not all those who wander are lost.

ASOS @ASOS Good news: @SeaWorld has announced it’s ending its orca breeding programme, meaning the current whales will be the last in captivity.

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p BRITISH DESIGNER ROSS BARR MEETS HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN AND HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE OF WALES AS THEY VISITED THE PRINCE’S TRUST CENTRE IN KENNINGTON ON 8 MARCH 2016.

p MWB EDITOR VICTORIA JACKSON AND CHRISTINA CHAMBERS, BUSINESS AND CONTENT EDITOR FOR MODA UK, ATTEND THE INTIMATE BALL (21 FEBRUARY). ORGANISED

BY MODA AND BREAST CANCER CHARITY COPPAFEEL!, THE EVENT RAISED A STAGGERING £27,000.

p THE 39 CLUB, WHICH CELEBRATES ITS 60TH ANNIVERSARY THIS YEAR, GATHERED AT THE ROYAL OVERSEAS CLUB IN LONDON LAST MONTH FOR ITS ANNUAL SPRING LUNCHEON (PICTURED: (FRONT ROW) DENIS HANKS, BRIAN WINTERBOURNE, ANDY TOMPSETT, SIMON LOVELL, PAUL HUMPHREY, (BACK ROW) JOHN BROWN, TONY SCOTT AND PAUL GARRETT).

www.barker-shoes.co.uk BarkerShoesLtd

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | 47

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

PATRICK GRANT KEEPS FACTORY ALIVE AND LAUNCHES COMMUNITY CLOTHING In February 2015 fashion designer, Savile Row tailor and The Great British Sewing Bee judge Patrick Grant heard the news that Cookson & Clegg, an old clothing factory in Blackburn that used to produce uniforms for the British Army, and which recently produced clothing for Grant’s own E. Tautz collections, was due to close. Grant subsequently bought the business to keep it open. “It was so distressing,” he says. “The factory had been there since 1860 and it was an immediate reaction to save it.”

Aside from the knitwear, all of the E. Tautz a/w 16 collection was made at the factory. Grant believes that disconnection from manufacturing is a reason why British menswear has struggled in recent years. “With our factory, we can guarantee consistency and quality, words too rarely heard in fashion,” he comments.

But there’s another feel-good factor to this story, because in February 2016 Grant also launched Community Clothing, a non-profit clothing brand with a small collection of men’s and women’s clothing. Aiming to create jobs and enhance civic pride, the initiative has support at both local and national government level.

Due largely to seasonality demand, many factories operate through zero hour contracts and hiring and firing of workers. Grant believes there is an alternative: cost-engineered clothing – sold at zero profit – produced using the spare capacity during slack periods of production. It will give people the chance to buy affordable UKmade clothing and to play a part in saving and creating jobs in what were formerly great textile working communities. Other clothing and textile manufacturers, many in deprived areas, will be invited to join the Community Clothing scheme.

The project is moving forward quickly with a Kickstarter scheme aiming to raise £100,000.

“The project has been long in the planning,” explains Grant. “It began with my thinking about jumpers, and how every British school kid should have a decent jumper. We’re losing all our wonderful mills and, meanwhile, sending our kids to school in polyester uniforms made on the other side of the world. Why can’t we marry the huge demand for school jumpers with all these people that just want to make them?”

The initial Community Clothing product includes men’s and women’s selvedge jeans

p PATRICK GRANT t NORTHERN COBBLER

selling at £49, a Harrington jacket in waterproofed cotton twill from British Millerain in Rochdale at £79, and a three quarter-length raincoat, also made from the same fabric, at £119.

On now owning his own factory, Grant says: “It feels fantastic. It’s lovely to have a job that actually makes me feel good about what I’m doing.” Good on you sir.

DOING THE HACKNEY WALK A new luxury fashion outlet district called Hackney Walk has just launched on Morning Lane in East London. Combining a creative mix of fashion and lifestyle businesses, Hackney Walk is already home to Burberry, Aquascutum and Pringle of Scotland, with Nike set to launch a 16,000 square foot store. But the project is also committed to helping the local fashion industry thrive. Many of the jobs in retail will be placed by Hackney Council’s ‘Ways to Work’ team, following a major fashion retail training programme.

As well as offering pop-up concepts to pioneering fashion, food and creative entrepreneurs, every year Hackney Walk will provide free commercial space for a young East London-based designer, to become its Designer

in Residence in the ‘Fashion Bunker’. For 2016, Ashley Williams is the chosen one.

Jack Basrawy, executive chairman and founder of Hackney Walk, says: “I believe that Hackney Walk will play a major role in the continued innovation and growth of the UK’s fashion and fashion retail industry, most importantly keeping Hackney at the forefront of the industry. Hackney is fashion.”

PUTTING LEICESTER TOP OF THE FOOTWEAR LEAGUE Northern Cobbler, a footwear brand formed in 2012 in Leicester by two former Next employees, Feroza Bham and Steffan Stafhill, is aiming to ride on the wave of the city’s euphoria at being top of the football Premiership to raise the brand’s profile. In fact the shoes – actually made in Portugal but let’s not split hairs here – look rather good, and have already caught the buyers’ eyes at Schuh and Offspring, while the duo have established a shop/showroom/coffee shop in Leicester. Aside from Leicester’s title-winning aspirations being the main topic of conversation between customers, there’s plenty now being said about the quality of footwork in the area.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK APRIL 2016 | REPORT | 49

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OLIVIA FRANCIS Founder of premium label Hamilton and Hare, Olivia Francis has quite literally found herself up close and personal with men’s briefs and boxers. From her recent collaboration with boxer Joe Calzaghe through to her mentorship with British designer Oliver Spencer, Francis is a force to be reckoned with when it comes to creating stylish, yet comfortable, men’s underwear.

— DOB: 4 May 1986 Place of Birth: London Lives Now: London Twitter: @hamiltonandhare Website: hamiltonandhare.com — What drove you to launch Hamilton and Hare?

Why men’s underwear?

When looking at the booming female lingerie market and its array of choice, with beautiful fabrics and inspirational brands, it seemed odd to me that the men’s equivalent was so lacking.

Underwear is the first thing you put on and the last thing you take off; I believe it shouldn’t be an afterthought so I set out to offer men something better.

How would you describe the typical Hamilton and Hare customer?

Our customers are men who value quality, appreciate attention to detail and are looking for something that isn’t just run of the mill. We tend to see our customers make one ‘test’ purchase and then shortly after that commit to replacing their entire drawer with our underwear because they just don’t want to wear anything else again.

What sets you apart from the competition?

Men’s underwear and loungewear has traditionally been something ‘necessary’ rather than something to be valued and enjoyed. Global brands rely on overt branding and there is a real lack of quality in terms of fabric, design and attention to detail. Our approach is to treat underwear and loungewear with the same respect as outerwear. We use premium quality, natural fabrics and focus on fit above all else. For example, our boxer shorts are made from shirting grade two-ply cotton that has an incredibly soft handle and feature an eight-piece pattern that offers an impeccable fit. They literally feel like you aren’t wearing anything at all.

You recently collaborated with boxer Joe Calzaghe: how involved was he in the design process?

It was fantastic working with Joe, to get some real insight on how a world champion boxer trains, what is important in terms of fit and also how clothing can really affect your confidence and mental attitude, which is so important in boxing.

All of this went into the design process for our

exclusive activewear capsule range. And of course, we had to include Joe’s signature colour, black, which is a first for the brand.

How valuable was business mentor Oliver Spencer’s support to you?

I met Oli very early on in the journey of Hamilton and Hare and he has been a fantastic support to me, offering invaluable guidance about how to grow a brand and maintain a clear aesthetic and vision. As a woman in the menswear space, it’s also important to gather male perspectives and, as a leader of British menswear, his is invaluable.

How do you spend your time away from work?

When you run your own business there isn’t really time away from work but then the upside is that you never really feel like you go to work either, it’s just what you do. Weekends are precious and I spend time with my daughter. I also like to swim, do yoga and eat out.

What can we expect for the forthcoming season?

The new flagship store opens in late spring in Marylebone; it’s going to be fantastic to have a bricks and mortar space for the brand and for our customers too. The a/w 16 season sees the launch of a new range of activewear and travelwear, focusing on premium performance natural fabrics that are lightweight, crease-resistant and offer unparalleled comfort.

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Favourite film? The Shawshank Redemption: it never fails to amaze me that its debut cinema release was a flop.

— Biggest vice? Caffeine.

— Early bird or night owl?

Definitely early bird, although the recent arrival of my daughter has removed any aspect of choice in this matter.

— What would you tell your 16-year-old self? Age does not equal wisdom. Experience does.

That and please don’t DIY dye your hair.

—

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