WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk APRIL 2016/ ISSUE 254/ £6.95
GOOD FOUNDATIONS EYE FOR DETAIL The latest accessories in the spotlight BACK FOR GOOD J Lindeberg’s much celebrated return to his eponymous label WIDENING THE NET Damon Hill reveals the strategy behind Jayley’s relaunch
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BUCKLE UP
The success story behind premium belt label Elliot Rhodes
34/ T H E P I C K O F A / W 1 6 37/ T H E I N D U S T R Y ’ S B I G NIGHT OUT
Highlights from last month’s Intimate Ball
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THE BIG SMOKE
Key catwalk trends from London Fashion Week
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EDITOR’S COMMENT
06/ N E W S 14/ B A C K S T A G E
The other side of womenswear
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TALKING POINT
Your views on the issues shaping the industry
ALL THE SMALL THINGS
The latest innovations in shapewear and lingerie
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A TIGHT FIT
Autumn/winter hosiery in the spotlight
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RETAIL FORUM
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E-TAIL CLINIC
Expert e-commerce advice
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THE LAST WORD
With Sara Cohen, founder, Sara C
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With Jayley’s Damon Hill
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STYLE FILE
20/ M A D E I N T H E 80S
The best retro styles to get in-store now
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FASHION RADAR
24/ R E T U R N O F A C R E A T I V E MAVERICK Johan Lindeberg on taking up the helm of the label once more
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STREETS AHEAD
How curb appeal can boost footfall and sales
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JAZZED UP
The accessory brands to watch this season
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FRONT COVER: SECOND FEMALE
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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Writer Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com
Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths
Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323
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When a company like Burberry announces a change to its runway and retail calendar, the fashion industry listens up. The luxury brand has always led from the front when it comes to innovation and reinvention, and its digital developments in particular have been groundbreaking for many years already. But the brand’s recent revelation that it is to change the way it creates, presents and sells its collections, replacing its conventional show calendar with just two seasonal shows per year, as well as making the ranges available in-store and online immediately afterwards, sure had everyone taking note. The format comes into effect in September and is said to be a response to the increasingly seasonless, immediate and personal nature of fashion. It’s a bold move, and I can’t help but wonder what effect this will have on the rest of the industry. No doubt it will be imitated by other big fashion houses. In fact, Tommy Hilfiger announced shortly after that it was introducing a similar change in a bid to “democratise the runway and keep the consumer at the centre of its business.” It too will launch its s/s 17 fashion show for both press and consumers at the same time, as well as making the collection available to purchase across all of its channels instantly afterwards. But will this shake up the industry as a whole? The relevance of seasons has long been a hotly debated topic, and it can’t be denied that
consumers increasingly expect everything to be immediate. So in this respect, this is sure to have some trickle-down effect. However, there’s a difference between what a mega brand like Burberry can offer, and how well smaller, independent labels can adapt to such change and I very much doubt that this will be a realistic pattern for most other fashion businesses. It will be interesting to see how the new runway and retail format will be executed in practical terms and the impact on the Burberrys and Hilfigers of this world, as well as the wider industry as a whole. This is certainly one to watch. Elsewhere, the reforms to business rates announced in the last Budget have been welcomed by industry bodies and retailers alike, in particular the promise that around 600,000 small businesses will be taken out of the business rate system altogether, while another 250,000 are expected to pay less. Although it is disappointing that these changes won’t come into effect immediately, it is still encouraging that the issue has finally been recognised as crippling for smaller businesses and at least in parts addressed, though there is, of course, always room for improvement. The fact that business rates will also be linked to the lower Consumer Price Index by 2020, is certainly a more realistic and appropriate way of calculating this burdening tax. Now we just need the weather to play ball and give us some lovely spring sunshine to get s/s 16 sales into full swing.
WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company
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06/ N E W S R E V I E W wwb-online.co.uk
IMPACT OF BREXIT ON UK RETAILERS UNQUANTIFIABLE With no precedent, analysts believe uncertainty over the outcome may affect GDP growth.
The impact of Brexit is unquantifiable at this stage, as no one knows what alternative treaties would be set up with Europe, a report by international specialist banking group Investec reveals. With no precedent, no one can predict with any certainty who would be the main beneficiaries/losers from such a step. Currently, the UK is part of the EU single market with free movement of goods, services, people and capital. In the event of a Brexit, the status quo may not change in some areas, as everything will be up for negotiation. However, a Brexit is likely to change the UK’s relationship with the EU. Investec’s study identifies five key issues retailers might face, including weaker consumer demand, sterling weakness, labour cost pressure, change in trade terms and the basis on which investment decisions are made. According to the findings, the impact of a Brexit vote would likely be negative for UK retail demand. It would take two years to negotiate an exit, which would cause uncertainty and potentially impact GDP growth. However, the report concedes that any profit impact should be less than the sector experienced in 2008 as business models are generally more flexible today. Likely sterling weakness would benefit – both from a translation and transactional perspective – those retailers with material overseas earnings, including the likes of ASOS, SuperGroup and Boohoo, and/or a meaningful cost of goods bought in sterling and sold in Euros, such as M&S and Debenhams. More restrictive immigration rules could result in higher labour costs from lower availability of low skilled employees,
though the report does highlight that the inflation facing the industry from the introduction of the Living Wage in April 2016 and Apprenticeship Levy in 2017 already exceeds this. The report foresees little change to trade terms following Brexit, as most retailers already source from non-EU countries such as China, and already pay import duty on sourced product. An impact on corporate investment decisions is also said to be unlikely, as most retailers base investment decisions on the legal system, stability, developed nature of the market and local consumer tastes. The study concedes that none of these effects are new to the UK retail industry, and suggests that most are probably surmountable. Any impact on the economy, GDP growth and consumer demand would be unhelpful for UK plc generally, and the retail industry specifically, however it is suggested that retail would be relatively better positioned than many other sectors from a stock market perspective. Companies with international earnings, high margins, flexible cost bases and a UK sourcing bias are most likely in the strongest position. The report concludes that the status quo would definitely offer more medium term certainly, which should be positive for the economy, sentiment and demand both from a corporate and consumer perspective. In contrast, Brexit offers a degree of medium term uncertainty as only once the negotiations are finalised would it be possible to begin to work out the cost/ benefits of a Brexit to the UK economy and corporates.
FOR DAILY NEWS, ANALYSIS AND UPDATES, VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
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NEWS IN BRIEF
GERRY WEBER DIFFICULT FIRST QUARTER
FRANK WALDER TAKES OVER TUZZI
German Gerry Weber group generated sales revenues of €213.7 million in the first quarter of 2015/16, 11.1 per cent up on the previous year. The Gerry Weber retail segment reported an expansion-related 3.4 per cent increase in firstquarter sales revenues to €109.6 million (Q1 2014/15: €106 million). Sales revenues of the Gerry Weber wholesale segment were also down on the prior year quarter to €53.6 million (Q1 2014/15: €86.4 million). This is due to lower preorder volumes by wholesale customers and a shift in deliveries. In a statement, the group says it expects the continued difficult market environment to continue to weigh heavily on the profitability of the Gerry Weber core segments. Last month the group introduced a realignment programme, Fit4Growth, to optimise the retail operations, adjust structures and processes, strengthen the wholesale operations and modernise the brands.
German mainstream womenswear brand Frank Walder has taken over fellow German label Tuzzi from the Bax family in a deal that was closed on 1 March under undisclosed terms and conditions. The brand rights as well as production and delivery of the a/w 16 collections will transfer to the new owners, based in Münchberg. The Tuzzi headquarters will remain in Düsseldorf, with previous CEO Michael Bax continuing to support the company in an advisory capacity. Tuzzi was established in Fulda in 1971 and has been owned by the Bax family following a management buy-out from Mehler AG. Over the past few seasons the collections have been streamlined and modernised, leading to increased sales. Frank Walder is a family business, now in its third generation, and employs 400 staff worldwide. “The take-over produces synergies for both Tuzzi and Frank Walder, charting a course for a successful future for both brands,” says Carolin Held, CEO of Frank Walder.
“BUSINESS AS USUAL” FOR STEILMANN Business at German fashion house Steilmann is said to continue “as usual”, after the group filed for insolvency at the end of March. Administrator Kebekus et Zimmermann released a statement, stressing that efforts to stabilise the company are under way with the aim to secure the future of the concern. Insolvency was filed for the non-trading umbrella companies Steilmann Holding and Steilmann SE only, which operate twelve multi-label department stores across Germany, with Klaus Steilmann Gmbh, the parent company behind the Steilmann, Kapalua and Apanage labels, said to be unaffected by the move. According to Kebekus et Zimmermann, prospects of securing the future of the operative part of the Steilmann group are positive, and it is hoped to build on the strength of the brands to find a long-term solution. “The Steilmann Holding AG and Steilmann SE, the non-trading umbrella companies for several brands including, among others, Steilmann and Kapalua, have announced they are going into administration. However, Klaus Steilmann GmbH and its UK Ltd subsidiary are so far not affected and the instructions are that it is business as usual,” says Cristina Kehoe, general manager of Steilmann UK. “We will remain in dialogue with our customers and update everyone as and when new developments occur.”
INITIATIVE TO CELEBRATE WOMEN IN RETAIL Female high-fliers have the opportunity to enter the 2016 Worldpay Everywoman in Retail Ambassador Programme, which has been devised to celebrate successful women and encourage others to become future retail leaders. The deadline for applications is 9 May. Women can enter themselves, or be nominated by others and it is free to enter. The chosen Ambassadors will be announced at an awards ceremony and dinner at The Langham, London, on 13 September 2016. KELSI DAGGER SETS SIGHTS ON UK MARKET US footwear brand Kelsi Dagger Brooklyn has set its sights on UK expansion through strategic multiples and independent boutiques, following the brand’s launch on this side of the Atlantic for s/s 16. Since Kelsi Dagger’s foray into the UK footwear market, the brand has opened accounts in Office, with distribution limited to 10 stores, as well as six Anthropology stores. The label is looking to further expand through selected independent boutiques after a successful appearance at trade show Scoop. BUSINESS RATES CUT FOR SMALL FIRMS A relief on business rates was announced by Chancellor George Osborne during last month’s Budget, with the tax being scrapped for properties with a rateable value of £15,000 or less. This change will come into effect permanently next April, and is set to take 600,000 small businesses out of the business rate system, which could save them £6000 a year, while 250,000 are expected to pay less in business rates. Overall, Osborne says half of all properties will pay no or less business rates under his plans. Business rates will also be linked to the Consumer Price Index by 2020, which is lower than the current Retail Price Index. It’s a budget that Osborne says “backs small business”.
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NEWS IN BRIEF
JOHN SMEDLEY EXPANDS WITH NEW STORE
RE-EDITED MODA GETS THUMBS UP
Knitwear brand John Smedley opened its second retail store in London at 55 Jermyn Street last month. The store promises to be an immersive space dedicated to championing craftsmanship, British design and storytelling of the brand’s rich 230 year heritage, all within a contemporary setting. Elements from the brand’s history and home in Lea Mills, Derbyshire, have been integrated into design details, such as Derbyshire Marble table tops, hand-cut maple flooring mirroring the original factory floors, and inset leather walkways replicating original trolley-ways put in place in Lea Mills in the 1800s. This is mixed with contemporary handmade British furniture and fitting rooms, alongside bespoke lighting. Customers can shop an edit of the collections alongside the brand’s unisex diffusion line and selected limited edition pieces from the British Fashion Industry x John Smedley initiative, with products from designers Lou Dalton, Holly Fulton, Phoebe English, Ashley Williams and Claire Barrow.
Birmingham trade show Moda closed its a/w 16 edition on a positive note, with strong trading reported across the three days of the event. The show, which saw a re-edited layout and launched a number of new sectors, including fast fashion platform Moda Loves, contemporary niche area Moda Edit, a unisex area as well as Outdoor Lifestyle, was praised by buyers and exhibitors for a re-energised ambience and appealing product mix. “The new layout worked well for us and has re-energised the show,” says Nick Williams, owner of Marble. “Once again, Moda gave us the opportunity to see our key stockists and write significant orders, as well as connect with new customers.” Martha Fraser, owner of Martha V in Newmarket, says, “I always love the show. It just gets better and had a really contemporary feel to it. I was able to place orders with about 10 or 12 of my suppliers and picked up Dress Code, a gorgeous collection of cocktail and evening dresses.” The next edition of Moda takes place at the NEC Birmingham on 7-9 August 2016.
BURBERRY CHANGES ITS RUNWAY AND RETAIL CALENDAR Burberry has announced plans to change the way it creates, presents and sells its runway collections, replacing its current four show calendar with two shows, with effect from September 2016. Seasonless, immediate and personal, the new format and calendar have been designed with a global audience in mind, with the February and September shows featuring both womenswear and menswear collections. Furthermore, the collections will be available to purchase in-store and online immediately following the show in a move that significantly shortens the traditional gap between the runway show and retail availability. “The changes we are making will allow us to build a closer connection between the experience that we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collections for themselves,” says Burberry chief creative and chief executive officer Christopher Bailey. “Our shows have been evolving to close this gap for some time. From live streams, to ordering straight from the runway to live social media campaigns, this is the latest step in a creative process that will continue to evolve.”
SCOTLAND’S FIRST HOUSE OF ADIDAS OPENS Family-owned sports retailer Greaves in Glasgow has opened Scotland’s first House of Adidas, the only one in the UK outside of Harrods. The new £1m development in Greaves’ flagship Gordon Street store opened last month, taking the store to almost 13,000 sq ft. Greaves’ House of Adidas facility houses the innovative and technical performance product most associated with Adidas, in addition to the Adidas Originals and Stella McCartney ranges. The 90-year old shop has been transformed with the addition of a dramatic new stairwell lined with digital mannequins. OBITUARY: TIM ORMISTON Tim Ormiston, former UK and Ireland country manager at The Masai Clothing Company, died on 20 February of bronchopneumonia, aged 73. Ormiston is widely credited with bringing the Danish brand to the UK seven years ago and growing it into one of the country’s most successful womenswear labels. His career until then had spanned positions as UK country manager for Danish labels InWear and Matinique, followed by CEO Europe at womenswear brand Liz Claiborne and country manager of IC Companies until launching Masai to the UK in 2008, the position he retired from in November 2015. NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN Scottish cashmere company Johnstons of Elgin has announced the appointment of Alan Scott as its new creative director. Scott brings with him over 27 years of experience and knowledge and is best known for his role in launching Donna Karan menswear. The brand has seen strong growth in recent years and continues to work with some of the biggest names in the fashion industry. With plans to continue to expand the business across accessories, home interiors and cloth, Scott will place a key role within these developments.
W H E R E FAS H I O N CO M E S TO G E T H E R
7- 9 A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 NEC Birmingham For information or to apply to exhibit visit moda-uk.co.uk
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NEWS IN BRIEF
SLAITH’S WORLD FIRST IN KNITWEAR
CAPRI CLOTHING BUILDS ON SEASON SUCCESS
British premium knitwear brand Slaith has launched for a/w 16 with an exclusive collection of women’s and menswear styles, presenting the world’s first seamless, 30-gauge cashmere knitwear. Owned by Spectrum Yarns, the brand is produced in the small town of Slaithwaite, West Yorkshire, and combines generations of expertise with cutting-edge technology. The collection consists of 27 womenswear styles and 22 men’s pieces, available in a multitude of colours, as well as six accessory styles. Multi-compound yarns guarantee the soft and silky handle of the collection, with all garments also featuring innovative temperature regulation and wicking properties. The brand has already been picked up by a number of high-end accounts and is looking to build on this over the coming seasons. “Slaith brings something truly unique and never-before done to the industry. Our proud heritage in the Yorkshire textile trade remains at the heart of our business, and we are determined to produce the best,” says Richard Brown, owner of Spectrum Yarns.
UK womenswear brand Capri Clothing is looking to build on another successful season for a/w 16, with the brand having opened a significant number of accounts as well as increasing forward orders by 35 per cent on this time last year. The brand attributes its recent growth to maintaining and in parts even dropping prices, as well as a focus on stock availability and commercial collections, which have achieved record sell-throughs in-store. Going forward, the brand, which supplies around 350 accounts in the UK, will be increasing its stock holding in certain product groups further, to be able to respond to customer demand. “Capri has experienced great sell-throughs over the past five consecutive seasons and as the brand becomes stronger, with following for the brand increasing each season,” says Hari Krishnadasan, managing director. “We have responded to comments and feedback in making the next season better and stronger based on the needs of our customers.”
OBITUARY: LYS LAKELAND Lys Lakeland, mother of designer James Lakeland and co-founder of the company, passed away at the end of February. Lys Lakeland was an integral part of the James Lakeland brand and was there every step of the brand’s progression – from initial conception, encouraging her son to launch his own brand and lending him half of the money needed to start the business over 25 years ago. From humble beginnings in a tiny showroom in London’s Cavendish Square, the business grew significantly, with Lys Lakeland a driving force behind the success. Lys Lakeland accompanied James on all buying and design trips to Italy, often fronting meetings, in particular in the early days when young designer James worried he would not be taken seriously. A fundamental part of the team, she held many roles, including company secretary, overseeing the accounts and dealing with all interior design for new store and showroom openings, as well as working closely with key department stores, including Harrods, Selfridges, House of Fraser, Fenwick Bond Street and more. She even modelled the brand in advertising campaigns and was featured in magazines such as Vogue, Tatler and Elle. Her strong family values, work ethic and business acumen were apparent, and she proved a great mentor for James Lakeland and his team.
UK CONSUMER SATISFACTION INSIGHT New research commissioned by online savings provider Webloyalty has revealed UK consumers are unsatisfied with most aspects of their retail experience. Three quarters of consumers are unsatisfied with at least one aspect of their shopping experience, with service (53 per cent) and product range (47 per cent) beating price (36 per cent) into third place in shoppers’ lists of gripes. Rudeness from staff (57 per cent), poor quality items (44 per cent) and dirty stores (43 per cent) are the top three reasons given for considering defecting to an alternative retailer. Additionally, less than one in four consumers feel retailers understand their needs. Online shopping proved the silver lining in the research, with 71 per cent of respondents reporting themselves satisfied or highly satisfied with the online offering of the retailers they use. HUNTER APPOINTS NEW CEO Vincent Wauters has been appointed chief executive officer of Hunter. Wauters joins the British heritage brand from Arc’teryx, where he was president of the premium outdoor and lifestyle brand, headquartered in Vancouver. He was also a member of the executive board of Amer Sports Corporation, in charge of the apparel and gear category. FINERY EXCEEDS FIRST YEAR TARGETS Online fashion retailer Finery has announced revenues of £5m since its launch last year, exceeding its first year targets. The success is attributed to the brand’s set-up, which merges a strong design ethos with a high-street business model, with 100 per cent of Finery products designed in-house, attracting over 3m visitors to the site since February 2015. Finery’s brand director and co-founder, Caren Downie (previously fashion director at ASOS and buying director at Topshop) leads a handpicked team of industry leaders, which includes head of design, Emma Farrow, and head of buying, Rachel Morgans Brooks.
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J U L Y
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It’s now time to reveal more about our exciting plans for the July 2016 edition of Scoop, when Scoop will be taking a one-off vacation from the Saatchi Gallery and spending the summer in the City!
“For the July 2016 edition of Scoop this already beautiful Old Billingsgate building will be dramatically transformed into the capital’s most exciting fashion destination”.
As many of you will already know, the Saatchi Gallery is
London’s most glittering events, from awards ceremonies,
about to become host to what’s set to be the most talked
film premieres, red carpet events through to high-end
about exhibition of the year, Exhibitionism: The Rolling
exhibitions and fashion shows.
Stones. The first ever exhibition dedicated to the career of the ultimate rock n roll band, Exhibitionism will feature over
For the July 2016 edition of Scoop this already beautiful
500 original Stones’ artefacts across nine themed galleries,
Old Billingsgate building will be dramatically transformed
and from April through to early September 2016 will be the
into the capital’s most exciting fashion destination, where a
must-visit show for Rolling Stones fans from across the globe.
whole new take on Scoop’s trademark fusion of fashion and art will be mixed with more than a few surprises. Just seven
So for one season only, we’ll be taking our own must
minutes by tube from Oxford Circus, nine minutes from Kings
visit event to one of London’s other iconic venues; Old
Cross and 15 minutes from Sloane Square, Old Billingsgate
Billingsgate in the heart of the City. Rising from the banks
will be the ideal summer residence for the industry’s most
of the River Thames just moments from Tower Bridge, this
talked about trade show.
grade two Victorian landmark is already host to some of
For further information visit www.scoop-international.com
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Backstage
The events, campaigns and parties not to miss 01/ HARRIS TWEED AWARDED WITH GRANT OF ARMS The Harris Tweed Authority has received the ultimate seal of approval from Lord Lyon King of Arms, Dr Joseph Morrow QC, who has bestowed upon the business a Grant of Arms. The luxury cloth was presented with the official Letters Patent at a presentation ceremony in Edinburgh last month, which gives the cloth the lawful right to bear a Coat of Arms and guarantees it’s the only material in the world that can be presented as Harris Tweed and bear its renowned Orb Certification Mark. Norman Macdonald, chairman of the Harris Tweed Authority, commented: “Being awarded a Grant of Arms is a historic milestone for Harris Tweed which has fought for decades to protect the sanctuary of the Harris Tweed cloth.” 02/ FROM THE ANDES TO LONDON Peruvian luxury alpaca label Be Alpaca was behind this season’s hottest look at boutique trade show Scoop, having kitted out the Scoop team with its beautiful and authentic ponchos. Handmade by artisan crafts women in the Andean communities, it was a great showcase of the quality and versatility of the fibre, as well as a rather stylish sight for Fashion Week.
01/
03/ MEET THE MANUFACTURER COMPETITION This year’s edition of British sourcing event Meet the Manufacturer is seeking manufacturers and designers who are innovators in technology, design, product development and sustainability to take part in a new Dragon’s Den-style competition. The two-day conference and trade show, which takes place on 25-26 May at London’s Old Truman Brewery, will feature Innovation Accelerator for manufacturers on day one and Designer’s Den for designers on day two. Manufacturers’ and designers’ ideas are to be submitted ahead of the event. Those with the most promising concepts will be selected to attend the Meet the Manufacturer conference to pitch their idea to a panel of experts. For further details of how to enter Innovation Accelerator or Designers Den visit www.meetthemanufacturer.co.uk. 04/ BIRTHDAY GIRL Big congratulations were in order for Pomodoro’s Noreen Puri, who celebrated the big 5-0 during last month’s Moda. Having partied into the early hours after attending industry gala The Intimate Ball, Puri was greeted at the brand’s stand at the show with a massive bouquet of flowers and more bubbly to help commemorate this milestone birthday. We wish we looked as good after just two hours of sleep! 02/
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Talking Point
Your views on the issues shaping the industry Steering through a fast-paced and competitive market
MICHAEL SHALDERS Co-owner of fashion distributor Love Brands Ltd, based in Wapping, London One of the most significant changes we’ve noticed in the retail sector has been within the department stores. For whatever reason – tougher trading conditions perhaps – they have become very concession-led recently, and this has altered how
Providing a seamless shopping experience is key
CHRISTINE KILSBY Owner of bridal and occasion wear boutique the Cotswold Frock Shop and a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) After the busy buying season at the London Bridal show and Moda it will be full on with the selling season ahead as wedding planning takes off. While our doors are always open between 10am and
we approach them with some of our most commercial brands. Trade has generally been tough for a/w 15, and some of the smaller independent stores had delayed deliveries as a result, due to outstanding payment issues. Online retailing has become more prevalent and the big players – ASOS, Zalando and Amazon – continue to get better at their game. The most notable way in which all sectors are tackling these challenges is by investing in and establishing a point of difference, such as the innovative ‘boutique’ department developed by John Lewis that offers a fresh shopping experience. As a distribution agency, we aim to mirror what the retailers require and seek to find brands with that point of difference. We also try to accommodate the reality of the conditions they face. This can mean being flexible with payments and deliveries, helping with sell throughs and supporting product promotions. Three of the brands we took to trade shows this season we selected for exactly this reason. Stefanel is an international premium brand with a gold-plated reputation; Mighty Purse is the only Apple-approved smartphone charging bag collection; Elle Sport stood out because there was
nothing else comparable at the shows. Because of the brands we have brought to market and the fact that they are looking for a point of difference in a competitive arena, we have been dealing with a lot more department stores in the past 12-18 months. They are actively seeking out brands to set them apart from their competitors and we have been actively seeking out those brands. Our biggest future concern, like many others, is what happens in the economy and how the vote on Europe affects this. Would a move out of Europe result in greater currency fluctuations? From a day-to-day point of view, unless we have a trading agreement with Europe as Norway does, we will have myriad VAT and administration challenges to contend with if we do exit. As a business, we have a healthy and diverse customer base and we will be looking to sell more of our brands to those existing customers as we broaden our portfolio in 2016. Expanding on our key accounts is definitely one of our objectives, as is growing our concession business in department stores and online. It’s a fast-paced and competitive market and we are continually seeking out the next ‘best thing’ for our customers.
5.30pm, we try to work on an appointment basis, mainly because our customers appreciate that level of service and attention. Early spring is a great time of year in our shop as we are fully stocked: we hold more collections for spring/ summer than we do for autumn/winter. From my experience, women are looking for more variety and options when it comes to their occasion wear. Gone are the days when a stunning straight dress and jacket would satisfy a Mother of the Bride customer. We are frequently asked for soft, unstructured dresses and jackets. It’s often the case that a classic dress and jacket isn’t suitable for an occasion – second marriages or civil ceremonies, for instance – so we need to have a variety of different options available. In recent months, our bestsellers have included Carla Ruiz from Spain and Ronald Joyce and John Charles from the UK. With no formula and no set of rules to what a woman should wear to special occasions, our customers increasingly have their own strong ideas on what they are looking for. Last week we had two Mothers of the Bride visit us looking for a longer length dress. They chose a style we have in our bridesmaid
collection which features beautiful long lace sleeves. Because we have an in-house sewing team we are able to offer practical advice on what can be customised and altered and control all of this within our team. It provides a seamless shopping experience for women buying for very special occasions who appreciate having all aspects taken care of. We also offer a wide range of jewellery so customers can really get an idea of the finished look with accessories. One of my favourite parts of this business is the customer satisfaction we generate. I love nothing more than seeing a customer who has entered the shop lacking in confidence, standing tall and smiling in her new outfit. I have learned a lot about women and confidence over the years and will often judge a moment to throw in a ‘wild-card’: “maybe you’d like to try this.” When I can see that what they are wearing has transformed how they feel and boosted their self-confidence, I feel incredibly satisfied. It’s a service we can provide here which has no price tag. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk Written by Melissa Wheeler.
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A significant rebranding and business model shake-up has taken place at women’s fashion label Jayley in order to grow the business in to other countries. With the brand also in the process of streamlining its UK distribution, the changes are being spearheaded by global brand manager Damon Hill, as Tom Bottomley discovers. Tom Bottomley: Did you join Jayley last October to head up the rebranding? Damon Hill: Coming in as the global brand manager, the rebranding has certainly been a priority. It’s a small to medium sized business, so I wear quite a few hats, including heading up sales. When I joined I made sure we were going to get new stock systems in place and a new website – which launches in April. We’ve also totally rebranded the offices and showroom, and changed the way we go about selling. The way we present ourselves outwardly is totally different to before. There’s new point of sale material, new look books and brand bible – all the tool kit you need to go out and get hold of some big international distributors. TB: Is it working? DH: Yes it is. We’ve already signed with a company in Germany, which will be good for us, and I’ve got other meetings set up. We’ve also now got a growing business in the US, with over 260 accounts – mainly independents. TB: Where’s the brand originally from? DH: We’re based in Stoke, and that’s where it was founded five years ago. It’s Chinese owned, and has been from day one. The brand owner, and head designer, is Jean Li. She comes from a very wealthy Chinese family that owns some of the factories in China that make for some of the big international brands. So she has great support from home. She came over here as a student, and decided to stay and launch a fashion business here.
DAMON HILL GLOBAL BRAND MANAGER JAYLEY
TB: What’s different now from before you joined? DH: Before I came in it was very much a wholesale business that wanted to restructure to become a brand. It’s a completely different mindset with the way you develop a range, and with common signature elements that you tie in through the range to pull it all together. Even things like incorporating a common thread of branded linings. That hadn’t been done in the past; it was just a business that had made decent product. It’s always been called Jayley, but there was no real brand impetus behind it. The new branding means we can now diversify and target some of the high street majors.
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TB: Why is the timing now right for this restructuring and rebranding? DH: Jayley was at saturation point as a business, selling to over 1,400 independent stores in the UK, as well as what I’d class as the mini majors, like Fenwick, Beales and Bentalls. We’re currently going through a selective distribution process to make sure we are in the best shops, on the best streets and in the best towns. We’re trying to thin down our distribution, setting ourselves out in a professional manner so we can then get more out of the people that are investing with us. Realistically a brand of our size should have no more than 500-600 UK accounts, but they need to be the best accounts we can be in. When I joined, the business had reached a £5m turnover in five years, which goes to show the volume of business we’re doing with the smaller shops. But, to grow from this point, you need to invest in personnel and more in to the way you’re doing things. I’m bringing in my expertise to try and manage them through a transitional process, from the previous wholesale model to becoming a brand. TB: So what’s the target in terms of retailers now? DH: One of the first things I pointed out when I joined was we couldn’t go and see the likes of John Lewis yet, because the brand identity wasn’t built yet. Yes, they were doing some great product, but it was about getting over what Jayley stands for, and what it’s about. It needed to find a tone of voice, and that’s what we’ve worked hard to achieve. The first real signs of all this are for a/w 16. We had record sales at both the recent Moda and Pure shows. Every customer said it’s a massive move on from where we’ve been; some even said we’re now looking like one of the top international brands. The business model is to take what we’ve done here and grow that out to the rest of Europe. TB: Is the new look more modern and directional? DH: It’s a fusion of Oriental influence and Western contemporary classics. We’ve used a lot of beautiful prints and devorés, but doing them in a style that is suitable for a UK and European market. There’s over 3,000 items in the range so we cover everything. We have a younger consumer that shops with Asos, but also a more mature woman who will wear a lot of the
big furs we sell. About 20 per cent of what we sell is real fur, predominantly rabbit fur. You have to be a little bit cautious with that, obviously with people signing agreements with PETA, but all our fur is ethically sourced. Eighty per cent of the collection is not real fur; there’s also plenty of faux fur, cashmere, silks, cottons and wools. TB: How wide is the appeal of the brand’s offer? DH: We have three different consumers that we focus on, which are all very different. One is very young and directional, then we’ve got older customers as well and those that sit in the middle. TB: Are the price points being reflected in the new, more premium looks? DH: Yes they are. In the top end premium range you’re looking at a retail price point starting at £250 and going up to £2,000. Then, on our mainstream business, retail prices start at about £70 and go up to £250. There are entry level price points as well, but we’re phasing that out. We’re trying to reposition the brand at a slightly higher level than it’s been trading at recently. And certainly when we’re going in to what I’d class as ‘virgin’ European markets, we’re showing more of the higher price point premium product. What we’re finding is that the retail customers, who are constantly moving forward with us, have no problem selling the higher price point products. Our sales term is ‘affordable luxury.’ We don’t want to be part of an exclusive club where you can only buy something of ours if you’re paying north of £500. We’ve always got products in our range to satisfy any financial appetite. But what we do need to do is make sure we have that premium, higher end price point product, because that’s what drives the brand forward. TB: Are there plans to open any Jayley retail shops? DH: We are actually speaking to potential retail partners up and down the country. We’re speaking to a top retailer in London, and we’re also speaking to somebody in Liverpool to see if we can partner with them to open up Jayley stores. The plan is to at least get the first one open this year.
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Style File
The hottest brands not to miss this month
u BEJEWELLED London jewellery brand Nocturne is built on an aesthetic deeply rooted in the artisan crafts of the Orient. Each Nocturne piece is handcrafted using Asian traditional techniques passed through generations, fused with new materials, such as laser-cut Perspex and bespoke Italian resin beads. The latest range introduces new pendant shapes and friendship bracelets combining Swarovski neon pearls and plaited leather, which can be layered and stacked to create a statement look.
u MODERN RETRO Voodoo Vixen specialises in vintage, retro and rockabilly styling with classic silhouettes to flatter the female shape. Designed to complement curves, the latest collection sees an array of dresses as well as wide-leg trousers, incorporating that signature retro twist. Prints are made exclusively for the brand, which is also known for its array of vibrant colours.
JET-SET GO! Eddie Harrop has developed a range of luxurious travel accessories combining both style and function. Handcrafted in Vietnam, the Voyager range uses the highest quality leathers and features internal zipped pockets with easy access to mobile phone, passport and wallet, as well as detachable shoulder straps.
t CURVE APPEAL Wrangler continues to push the boundaries of performance denim with the introduction of Body Bespoke, a collection of perfect fitting jeans for women. The brand individually fitted bespoke jeans across sizes to ensure they look equally flattering on all body shapes. The collection arrives for a/w 16 and features a colour palette of oxidised blues and bleached-out rip and repair, with the High Skinny fit among the key styles.
p FLAT OUT US fold-up flat brand Yosi Samra creates ballet pumps that are small enough to slip into a purse, to stylishly replace stilettos at the end of a long day. Constructed in soft Argentinian leather, cushioned soles and smooth elastic toplines ensure a great fit. Both elegant and playful in design, the brand has now also launched a girls’ line.
WHOLESALE ENQUIRIES +44 (0) 1782 658 947 | sales@jayleycollection.com w w w. j a y l e y c o l l e c t i o n . c o m
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Made in the 80s This season’s 80s trend utilises the bold and bright clashing colours which are synonymous with the decade. Here WWB picks the top selection available for in-store delivery now. 04/
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1/ PAUL’S BOUTIQUE £26 020 8845 8826 • 2/ 02 QUAY AUSTRALIA price on request 01612 729381 3/ STANCE price on request www.stance.com • 4/ MINT&ROSE £46 020 7351 9352 5/ SAUCONY ORIGINALS price on request www.saucony.co.uk • 6/ ALMOST FAMOUS LONDON £22 020 7637 2622 7/ MI-PAC £16.70 020 7739 7620 • 8/ NATIVE YOUTH £14 0161 835 2064 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
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Fashion Radar
SIDELINE Building on its established aesthetic and foundation in woven indigo, British contemporary label Sideline has launched its third collection of everyday pieces with a special feel. Thoughtful design and subtle, understated detail are at the core of British contemporary womenswear label Sideline, whose foundation is woven indigo fabrics worked into inventive designs with a clean, relaxed and yet feminine style. Each season, Sideline delivers a versatile collection of woven pieces by using a carefully edited range of fabrics that create interest in their weave. Clever cutting and an exceptional level of detail in the design give the label its distinct aesthetic. Sideline was launched three seasons ago by denim specialist Ellen Brooks and has developed each season, with s/s 16 continuing the evolution with complementary fabrics including soft, garmentdyed Tencel, laundered ticking stripes and indigo chambray. Highlight tones include nude pink and washed yellow, while key styles feature easy day dresses, relaxed shirting, embroidered skirts and soft, lightweight trousers and culottes. Since its launch, Sideline has gathered a significant following, and has been picked up by key UK stores such as Couverture & The Garbstore, KJ’s Laundry, Folk, as well as boutiques such as Flint, Neilson and Hub.
Autumn/Winter 2016
Tel: +44 203 819 0819 sales@capriclothing.co.uk www.capriclothing.co.uk
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Return of a creative maverick Johan Lindeberg is back on board as Creative Consultant at J.Lindeberg – a label he left in 2007, 11 years after founding it, citing creative differences with investors. The air is all now cleared, and he’s relishing the opportunity to put his own handwriting on a brand that’s been doing very well in his absence. Adding to that, womenswear is now a major focus, as Tom Bottomley discovers.
Swedish designer Johan Lindeberg, renowned for his rock ‘n’ roll inspired menswear collections under the J.Lindeberg brand name, is back at ‘home’, so to speak. He returned to J.Lindeberg at the start of this year to inject some creative spark into the brand’s offer – across both menswear and the womenswear arm, which was launched in the UK in 2015. It’s reigniting his passion, which, since leaving the brand in 2007, has been channelled into other creative projects such as launching Justin Timberlake’s William Rast menswear line and consulting for Jay-Z. In addition, he founded another label, BLK DNM, in New York, which became known for its denim leather jackets for men and women, and for strong marketing campaigns. In the interim he’s also become a fine photographer, and will now be shooting the allnew J.Lindeberg collections for men and women himself. Design-wise, we can’t expect his real creative influence to be in full effect until the launch of the a/w 17 collections, though no doubt there will be rumblings of what the old master has to offer for spring 2017 too. On the womenswear side, it’s a challenge he’s particularly looking forward to. “When I created BLK DNM, women, and womenswear, had a leading role in that brand. I think it’s a trend around the world right now that women are becoming very powerful, and I’m a big feminist myself. I’m a person who believes that women should take over completely! I want womenswear to play a very strong role in J.Lindeberg going forward. We have design teams in place, but I will decide the look.” One of the main projects he’s working on now is to create one strong international voice for the J.Lindeberg brand. He says that when he left in 2007 they had different divisions and collections within the label, which carried slightly different branding and went through different distribution channels, such as ‘Golf ’ and ‘Ski’. But everything now is branded the same, as J.Lindeberg only. “It makes more sense to have one expression, particularly when you become more retail based, as we are now with over 130 stores worldwide.”
Lindeberg explains that the main reason you have different branding within a brand is really if you sell to a lot of department stores and want to get in to different areas within those stores. “You can then be in the sports area, the tailoring area and the more fashion focused area. But when you start to have more of your own retail, then it doesn’t make any sense any longer. It’s better to have clarity, and a clear brand expression and DNA.” His return to the brand he founded was “out of the blue.” He says he was standing in his living room last June in Brooklyn, New York, when he received a call from Stefan Engström, J.Lindeberg’s CEO. “It was a real ‘wow’ moment, totally unexpected,” he says. “He told me he could take the brand to one level without me, and another level with me. It’s very hard to go back to an old relationship, also on a personal basis. There have been some great comeback stories, but also some really bad ones. But I also know that if it works it becomes very powerful, though it’s not the easiest thing to pull off.” He says he initially took the very bold decision to leave a brand with his own name because he had become “creatively stuck,” with too many investors and too many points of view. That’s why Engström and Lindeberg talked for a good six months before they entirely decided on his return. He says it was probably more his own initiative to suggest a two-year initial contract in a role as Creative Consultant. “It feels less ‘heavy’ somehow,” he offers. “So we’re taking two years to ‘feel it out’ and then take it from there. The job title for me doesn’t matter, because I am Johan Lindeberg after all. My main role is really to come in and add some innovation, creativity and energy to the brand.” From a personal perspective he says it’s a good thing that he doesn’t have to start the brand from scratch again. In fact, it’s been performing rather well without him for some time, as the global retail roll-out clearly indicates. “I’m coming back in to a brand that is 20 years old this year, and there’s a very good business structure in place, so I can focus creatively,” he explains.
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Lindeberg’s views on the direction the brand has been taken creatively since his departure nine years ago are mixed. “I think J.Lindeberg went into a bit of ‘preppy’ period, but that was also to do with trends. I never liked that preppy look personally. I’m not a preppy person. Maybe St. Tropez preppy, but not American preppy.” He says that when he left, the J.Lindeberg ‘look’ was very progressive and modern. “That was the whole idea, to create an alternative lifestyle brand for men – like an alternative Ralph Lauren, but very progressive instead of classic. I think over the years, J.Lindeberg has become quite classic. I also had a rock ‘n’ roll influence in the collections. I used to dress a lot of garage rockers in London in the early 2000s when it was a big trend, with very skinny tailoring and jeans.” The UK is certainly one of J.Lindeberg’s key markets. The brand has had some successful seasons, and the menswear is currently sold in the likes of Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, John Anthony, Dogfish and Zee & Co. Lindeberg says the UK is also one of most international markets, because they can target not only a British customer, but people from all over the world – citing the big department stores as key players in that role. “We see a lot of potential in the UK market, both in terms of growing with our existing customer base and also with new partners. Womenswear was only launched in the UK in 2015, so with that concept in particular we have a lot of potential to grow. We don’t currently have any standalone stores in the UK, but it is definitely a market where we are looking for retail opportunities in the future.” Lindeberg says he’s always a person who looks ahead, especially with regard to inspiration and creativity. “I’ve been very inspired these part nine years with the different things I’ve been doing, so I’ve not even really thought about J.Lindeberg. I’d walk past the store in Soho, New York, and see that the look was distanced from who I am and what I started.” Something says that’s all about to change, and this time around womenswear retailers, and women who like their fashion with a bit of an edge, will be able to feel the benefit too.
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Streets ahead Every retailer knows the importance of attractive visual merchandising and interior design in-store. But what about outside of the shop? Charles Owen is portfolio executive at property firm Shaftesbury, which runs the successful Seven Dials shopping destination in London. Isabella Griffiths quizzes him about curb appeal and how small, clever details can make a dramatic contribution to an inviting shopping environment – both in-store and across the whole street.
Isabella Griffiths: How important is ‘curb appeal’ for stores and shopping streets/destinations and why? Charles Owen: Curb appeal is a major part in the popularity of retailers and can affect dwell time significantly. It is essential for these successful stores to be part of a destination with a true identity, such as Seven Dials. Along with the retailers’ stores and designs, we have created an area within central London that has a local feel and can be enjoyed throughout the year. We regularly host free events for the residents, visitors and tourists to enjoy and which involve the retailers and restaurants, so everyone benefits. The stores’ merchandising and windows are key to attracting the consumer and the right mix adds to destination appeal. IG: How can this appeal be successfully and practically achieved? CO: Many of our retailers have created different windows and external design to attract customers – examples include the newly opened Club Monaco with flower baskets outside the store and Fresh, the international skincare brand, which has its own white bike parked outside as a point of difference. Neal’s Yard includes flower boxes created by Seven Dials and made from recycled materials to create a bright and welcoming area surrounded by new restaurants and outdoor seating. Other retailers such as Monmouth Coffee and Finisterre have benches outside the store for customers to sit, enjoy a coffee and relax in between shopping, which gives Seven Dials a very continental feel. This is all part of a deliberate strategy for Seven Dials, as we want to create a unique destination with a wide variety of independent and international retailers within a village feel. Shaftesbury work closely with The Seven Dials trust to also invest in the surrounding environment, including new bespoke lighting for the area, new Seven Dials signage and bollards painted with the Seven Dials logo, setting it apart from any other shopping destination in London.
IG: Does Seven Dials try to achieve a coherent aesthetic across all its retail residents? CO: We work with individual retailers to create their store design specifically for Seven Dials, but it is important for stores to remain individual and we encourage unique concepts such as outdoor seating or props. Regular and exciting visual merchandising plays an important role and our retailers understand this and regularly update their displays. All the stores combined give Seven Dials a true unique feel. IG: Have you noticed that the coherent environment makes a difference to sales figures and the success of the individual stores? CO: Curb appeal and store merchandising encourage people to stay and shop for longer, and this also includes the environment, which adds to the stores’ success. It’s very important to us that our retailers are successful; we work with brands from when they open and have an ongoing relationship to encourage exciting store design and advise on the Seven Dials consumer and what is appealing. We offer support in terms of marketing and any launch events, plus take part in Seven Dials events and provide offers for guests, which has proven to be a success with all retailers involved. IG: How can the ‘Seven Dials effect’ be achieved elsewhere? CO: It’s essential to really know and understand your consumer in order to tailor the offer so it is appealing. It’s about creating the right mix of exciting retailers and dining brands which complement one another and also have something unique to showcase and give to the consumer in terms of experience. Most importantly, this is about continual change and improvements. In our case, these are initiated by Shaftesbury for Seven Dials as a location, but also by the retailers themselves, as this keeps the area and stores interesting and vibrant for the consumer.
Photography by Simon Harvey
Photography by Simon Harvey
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Jazzed up
Accessories are as varied as ever this season. Whether it’s chunky jewellery, quirky design or innovative materials, there is something out there to suit any occasion, with eyecatching prints, unusual shapes and striking colour standing out. Rebecca Jackson selects the key items for a/w 16.
TATTY DEVINE
SKUNKFUNK
WONDERLUK
Blurring the line between fashion and art, independent jewellery brand Tatty Devine continues to showcase standout design with its latest collection. Featuring playful key designs such as cherries, flowers, music notes and record players, the collection also touches on mythology and creation with goddess statues and images from Michelangelo's The Creation of Adam staring in the line.
Skunkfunk specialises in a diverse collection of bags, which vary in both style and product type. With products ranging from totes and duffle bags to backpacks and across-the-body bags, designs reflect a contemporary vibe, as seen through the brand’s use of unique and ethical fabrics. Ethically sourced materials are seen across the line, ranging from wood to organic cotton and recycled leather.
Established in London's Shoreditch in 2013, WonderLuk is known for its edgy design and statement jewellery. Created by 40 worldwide independent designers, its range of 3D-printed jewellery and accessories is made from a durable high-tech nylon material and can be customised in 12 colours. Earlier this year the brand announced plans to release a jewellery collaboration with the Science Museum during 2016.
ZANDRA RHODES
ID HATS
HELEN MOORE
The latest Zandra Rhodes collection showcases quirky design and prints, as well as unusual shapes. Versatile styling, from backpacks to totes and stylish across-body and evening styles, utilise laser cut panels, printing and fringing. A mix of colours from bright hues to pastels and neutrals cover the line, with the new collection introducing orange and petal pink shades.
ID Hats’ signature Bronté collection offers up sophisticated styles in a wide range of materials and fabrics in sizes small, medium and large. With styles bridging the gap between casual and formal, key items in the collection include bobble hats, fedoras and trilbys. For a/w 16, the brand presents shapes inspired by the 40s and 50s, combined with an androgynous look expressed through earthy tones and pastels.
British designer Helen Moore presents a varied accessories offering in her eponymous label, ranging from socks and scarves to bags. All items utilise a faux fur fabric, though prints vary wildly, from toned down hues and subtle animal prints to contrasting bold acid tones which clash on the same garment. Pom-poms are a consistent feature, and are seen on hats, bags and in the brand’s range of statement key rings.
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BULAGGI
DANTE
BOHEMIAN JEWELLERY TATTOOS
Dutch bag label Bulaggi reveals a new brand direction for the upcoming season. Striking details including fringing, buckles and colourful hues work together on one bag to create a statement collection. With a new logo and look, the brand has aimed the upcoming collection at every woman. Items are multipurpose, and a wide range of styles from clutch to shoulder bags are included in the new collection.
The upcoming line from Dante creates a unique ‘beaten gold’ effect across some of the pieces. Meanwhile, silver items feature smooth gem stones in shades of turquoise, blue and grey. The collection takes its inspiration from clear waters and riverbeds, playing with texture and colour to reflect this theme. Gems are placed beside layered chains, suede material and both rigid and fluid structures.
MOCCIS
WHITE LEAF
ALEXI LONDON
The hand-sewn Swedish-made moccasin slippers from Moccis feature non-slip leather soles to ensure there’s no risk of tripping. Providing a nearer experience to being barefoot than socks and slippers, Moccis are recommended by podiatrists. A wide range of playful patterns and colour combinations are available for the new season, from flower prints to animal motifs. All styles are machine washable.
White Leaf specialises in sophisticated fashion jewellery and accessories, ranging from delicate designs to silk scarves. The small, family-run business based in Manchester creates crafted jewellery from quality materials (all nickel and lead free) and specialises in semi-precious stones, Czech crystals, 24-carat gold and 925 silver platings. Sophisticated colour combinations come together to create a varied collection that’s suited to many occasions.
Designs in the Alexi London collection have been inspired by travel, art, nature and love. Pieces vary in style – some items present a classic aesthetic, while others have been influenced by current fashions. The range of jewellery is made to cater for all occasions, spanning from day to night, as seen through a diverse offering of both delicate and chunky designs.
Bohemian Jewellery Tattoos present a collection of metallic transfer tattoos in fashionable boho designs. The jewellery tattoos are versatile, waterproof and non-toxic. Each transfer is expected to last up to five days and is made to cater for a special occasion such as a party, holiday or event. Aside from temporary tattoos, the brand also offers a range of bindis and colourful hairbands.
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Buckle up Premium accessory brand Elliot Rhodes is challenging perceptions of the humble belt, putting it out there into the spotlight as essential style and fashion item. And with great success, as the brand’s growing wholesale base demonstrates. Isabella Griffiths caught up with director Nathan Diwan to find out the unique concept of the brand.
There are few people in the industry who are more passionate about their product than Nathan Diwan, director at luxury belt brand Elliot Rhodes. When WWB calls for a chat about the brand’s recent success, his enthusiasm for the business, the industry and the product is quite infectious. Just as well then, that he is in charge of the wholesale and retail development of the label, which currently runs three London stores and is stocked in around 30 premium boutiques in the UK, with plans to double this over the coming seasons and international expansion already under way, too. Diwan is one of three directors of the accessory label, alongside his brother Jason, who is in charge of the financial side, and company founder and namesake Justin Elliot Rhodes, who established the brand back in 2004. The three men go back years, having been childhood friends since they met at boarding school in their early teens. Both families had ties to the fashion industry, and whilst initially they all went off to pursue other ventures, their professional paths crossed again when Nathan and his brother Jason decided to join their friend’s brand, initially as silent partners, and four years ago in a more prominent capacity to help take it to the next level. “Jason had developed the whole concept of the brand, but it was obvious that the label had more potential than one man could manage on his own, so Jason and I came on board to help take the business that next level up,” says Diwan. With three stores in London – Covent Garden, St Christopher’s Place and Chelsea – Elliot Rhodes launched a wholesale division three years ago, with expansion in international territories as far as Japan also afoot. The guys at
Elliot Rhodes describe themselves as “old school retailers” – everything is geared around high-quality service, product knowledge and impeccable quality. It’s a strategy that seems to be working, as both the retail as well as the wholesale side are doing well, with Elliot Rhodes increasingly becoming the go-to brand for high quality belts. The concept behind the brand is as simple as it’s effective: to offer a vast range of belt straps, matched with an equally staggering wealth of buckle designs, so that each belt becomes bespoke and unique to each individual customer. “It’s our mission to turn belts into what scarves have become – key fashion statements, but also essential accessories,” says Diwan. “Before Elliot Rhodes came along, there was a gap in the market for a premium belt brand. Belts have always been an after-thought, both for consumers and stores. But we wanted to come at it from a different angle and change those perceptions. We wanted to prove that belts could become not only an essential accessory, but that a niche product like that could also become a successful retail business. And I think we’re proof of that,” he adds. Walking into any of the three Elliot Rhodes stores in London, it’s easy to see why the gamble has paid off. Beautifully presented in a luxurious and ambient store environment, there are hundreds of belt straps and buckles on display – the brand is a unisex label offering around 140 straps and the same again on buckles at any given time, topped with seasonal updates and retailing between £80 to £125 – with dedicated style consultants helping to deliver the bespoke and personalised experience. Belts are measured and cut to each individual customer’s size in-store, and the knowledgeable staff are on hand to answer any
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queries on leather qualities, design details etc. “We find that people want to be assisted, they want the service and they want to deal with staff who are knowledgeable and good at their job. In many ways you can’t come into our stores and not speak to anyone, so we are very much old-school like that,” explains Diwan. It’s not easy to replicate such a personal and high-end instore experience, which is so driven by the passion of its directors – all three are very hands-on in the business and can be found at any of the stores at any given time – on a wholesale level, but Elliot Rhodes has achieved just that and has found a way of translating both the experience and ethos of the brand and matching it with the needs of independent retailers. Diwan explains: “We are retailers, too, we understand retail. I think this is crucial in making this work on a wholesale basis and with independent stores.” Depending on the size and nature of the shop, whether it’s a larger department store or small indie, Elliot Rhodes offers a flexible way of buying into the range. Belts can be bought in the conventional way, with buckles already attached and available in a range of sizes, or retailers can buy into the more bespoke option and a tailored choice of individual straps in varying widths and leathers, as well as single buckles, which help emulate the personalised concept. Custom display boxes are offered alongside to help with stylish merchandising, and training videos and tutorials are available to teach retailers how to customise and re-size the belts in-store. “We work with every single one of our accounts personally and make sure that we find a way of working and the stock that will perform in their
NATHAN AND JASON DIWAN, JUSTIN ELLIOT RHODES
store. We guide them through the bestsellers that we experience in our stores, the colourways, buckles etc, but it’s up to them whether they want to stock x amount of pre-made belts in varying sizes, or whether they want to go down the bespoke route and just keep x amount of separate buckles and straps,” says Diwan. “We understand the considerations of indies, whether that’s space, stock management or budgets, so there are few minimums and top ups are available year-round. They can always talk to us about how they want to work with us,” he adds. Diwan admits that it’s not always easy to change perceptions and get retailers to consider buying belts, but once the conversation has started, most ‘get’ the brand. “Of course we receive a lot of initial reactions like: ‘Belts? Why would I buy belts?’, but we present the concept, who we are and what we offer, and then they can see that it could be working for them. At the end of the day, we are living proof that it’s working. We run three central London shops paying central London rates and rents, selling a niche product; that’s proof enough,” he offers. “In our experience, once retailers try it, they discover that it can be a great additional revenue stream. And why wouldn’t it be? If a woman spends several hundreds of pounds on premium denim, why wouldn’t she want to invest in a bespoke, premium quality belt to finish that off? The same for dresses – why wouldn’t a customer buy a nice skinny belt to accessorise that look? The beauty of the Elliott Rhodes concept is that that customer can come back and buy a new buckle or a new strap, and have a completely different look for each outfit over and over again,” he adds. And you can’t argue with that.
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The pick of a/w 16 With the buying season having come to an end, Isabella Griffiths picks some of her favourite labels for a/w 16. u
SCOOP BE ALPACA Specialising in luxurious ponchos made from Peruvian alpaca, over 40 per cent of Be Alpaca’s styles are handmade by artisans in the Andean mountains. Cosy ponchos in understated light greys and subtle, timeless patterns were among the bestsellers.
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SCOOP LONDON ANTIPODIUM Under the new creative direction of designer Madeleine Press, Antipodium offered an appealing mix of wearable silhouettes, great quality textures and quirky prints, with the brand’s coffee culture graphics among the standout items.
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MODA GIBSON & BIRKBECK p
MODA RINO & PELLE A key trend for this season, sheepskin coats featured everywhere, including outerwear specialist Rino & Pelle, which presented this fine example, amongst many other styles. The collection offers a vast diversity of looks, including stylish parkas and wool/cashmere coats, in a muted and neutral colour scheme.
Scottish shirt brand Gibson & Birkbeck made its Moda debut with a quirky range of women’s shirts and blouses. Prints were at the forefront of the collection, with everything from florals to animal motifs making an appearance and creating an eye-catching display on a white backdrop.
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SCOOP HUMANOID
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SCOOP ROGUES As the name suggests, Rogues specialises in quirky brogues and is now in its third season. Buyers loved the fact that the brogues were a little different and made a statement of their own, appealing to a vast variety of consumers as they can be customised with colour pop laces, or toned down for a more understated effect.
Large knits and sheepskin coats really stood out at Humanoid this season, as well as its suede trousers. Greens, greys, blues and reds defined the wearable and stylishly understated collection.
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SCOOP AG BY AG Named after the initials of designer Anoesjcka Gianotti, AG by AG presented an impressive mix of high quality handbags. The brand’s bowling bag and briefcase totes in light pink and white were a particular favourite with buyers.
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SCOOP LONDON KINGS OF INDIGO Denim brand Kings of Indigo prides itself on delivering American classics with a Japanese eye for detail. Quality and sustainable innovation are key features – that, and the fact that each style is named after a king or queen of the past, which makes for an appealing touch.
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SCOOP LONDON NEUE LONDON Neue London’s latest collection for a/w 16 was based around the idea of floral camouflage. Named Camoufleurs, designer Alice Tibble has taken an original vintage jacquard and manipulated it to create an abstract, camouflage-like texture, with blouses and shirts among the key items in the range.
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MODA STEFANEL Also having made its first appearance at Moda, Stefanel’s range offered clean and understated elegance while also being extremely wearable and versatile. This chunky coatigan was one of the many hero pieces.
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The industry’s big night out Last month’s Intimate Ball, held at the glamorous new venue Vox adjacent to the NEC in Birmingham, brought together key industry figures from the womenswear and lingerie industries. The gala, which has hosted by popular BBC Breakfast presenter Steph McGovern, was held on behalf of breast cancer charity CoppaFeel!, with a high-profile auction raising a whopping £25,000 on the night. WWB was there and has photographic proof of what was unanimously hailed as a fantastic night.
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The
Big Smoke
Seminal design and top names from the womenswear industry united at London Fashion Week once again this season. Rebecca Jackson picks the top looks from the a/w 16 showcase.
ASHLEY WILLIAMS
GARETH PUGH
JASPER CONRAN
PAUL SMITH
Coats, jackets and blazers took on a flattering oversized appearance this season. Shapes varied from cocoon shaped coats at Jasper Conran to boxy styles at Marques’ Almeida. Some styles played with tailoring; over at Gareth Pugh, shoulder padding was used to create contrast. Meanwhile formalwear looked distinctly relaxed at Paul Smith and Ashley Williams, with oversized blazers on show. Ashley Smith styled trousers using a similar relaxed fit, while Ashley Williams opted for a tailored look which served as the ideal counterpart. Whether all-out loose styling or paired with contrasting tailoring, styles had additional flexibility this season.
MARQUES’ ALMEIDA
LARGER THAN LIFE
Waists were pulled in as the hourglass silhouette reclaimed the limelight for this season. On the catwalks, designers used the waist as a marker of stylish femininity, as seen over dresses at Amanda Wakeley and tops at Daks. A more dramatic look was revealed at Burberry and Palmer Harding with belts seen over outerwear; cinched-in waists created stark contrasts and a more strongly emphasised hourglass shape. This look was also seen at Pringle of Scotland, whereby a loose fit at the sleeve formed a contrast with a pulled-in waist. BURBERRY
PALMER HARDING
DAKS
PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
AMANDA WAKELEY
WAIST MANAGEMENT
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Exaggerated sleeves covered the catwalks this season, with both detail and shape used to create a statement look. A full sleeve was most popular across the board, though short sleeves with frill detail also made an appearance over at Georgia Hardinge. However, a rounded shoulder was the dominant silhouette, as seen on coats, blouses and dresses. This shape featured at Toga, Burberry and Topshop Unique, with the latter also showcasing the popular ultra-long sleeve trend which covered hands. Meanwhile, a dramatic flared sleeve also featured on the catwalk at Fyodor Golon. BURBERRY
FYODOR GOLON
GEORGIA HARDINGE
TOGA
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
STATEMENT SLEEVE
SUBTLE SEDUCTION
A.F. VANDEVORST
MARQUES ‘ ALMEIDA
MOTHER OF PEARL
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
TEMPERLEY LONDON
Netting, lace and sheer fabrics featured strongly across the catwalks, working underneath outfits at Marques’ Almeida and over the top at A.F. Vandevorst and Mother of Pearl. Transparent fabrics flirted with bare skin to create a strong, playful illusion at Temperley London. Meanwhile lace was also utilised to create a strong colour contrast between pink and caramel shades at Topshop Unique – once again an indication that the latter hue will be a strong colour for a/w 16.
EDELINE LEE
FYODOR GOLON
HOLLY FULTON
J.W. ANDERSON
MOTHER OF PEARL
FRILL SEEKERS Frills, and in particular layered frills, dominated the London catwalks. Flounces, ruffles and folds were used to create an ornate aesthetic that set a romantic mood for the season. Ruffles were toned down and took on gothic qualities when paired with moody shades of green and black over at Holly Fulton and Mother of Pearl. Meanwhile ditsy patterns and feminine shapes featured at Edeline Lee to take a different stance on the trend. The appearance was much more dramatic at Fyodor Golon and J.W. Anderson, with clashing colours and strategic ruffle placement creating a statement look.
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All the small things WWB presents the latest developments, news and collections in the lingerie and shapewear sectors for a/w 16.
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FREYA Freya introduces a new shapewear continuity style for a/w 16, the Pin Up cupless slip. As well as featuring a lined glossy black centre front panel with flattering style lines, folded edge sling panels wrap under the bust and provide styles with a smooth shape. The slip is designed to be worn with the customer’s bra of choice.
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WACOAL For a/w 16 Wacoal introduce Beyond Naked, a new collection offering ultra-flat styles that are the ideal choice for everyday wear. The Shaping Camisole (pictured) features integrated seamless moulded cups, which can be worn with or without the removable foam pads. All edges are free cut and soft against the skin, creating a completely no-show finish.
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NAOMI & NICOLE The brand presents five collections across its shapewear offering this a/w 16: Smooth Away, Black Magic, Luxurious Shaping, Soft & Smooth and Comfortable Firm. Among other styles, a selection of thigh slimmers, hi-waist briefs, torsettes and waistcinchers are on offer in a choice of black or nude colour options.
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CURVY KATE For a/w 16 the collection takes on a fun, nostalgic tone, with a diverse colour palette. Embracing a kitsch and retro vibe, tactile fabrics range from velvet and cotton-touch lace to lightweight meshes. Five new styles including Princess Plunge, Daydreamer, Smoothie Deluxe, Smoothie Spirit and Belle have been added, with styles available from 28-44 backs.
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WOLFORD The a/w 16 collection from Wolford presents ‘a homage to femininity’, and includes three collection themes. Second Nature, Pure Comfort and Effortless Sophistication aim to cater for every woman, as seen through the multi-purpose nature of collection styles. The brand also introduces the Velvet 66 Leg Support Tights to its Shape & Control Legwear collection.
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MIRACLESUIT q
The promise to ‘look 10 lbs lighter in 10 seconds’ is championed once again through Miraclesuit’s shapewear offering. Including the brand’s patented Wonderful Edge finishing, the hairline silicone ribbing element does not ride up, thus preventing VPL. Meanwhile, flat seamless edges prevent the appearance of lines.
FANTASIE The Isabella underwired strapless basque is a new shape for Fantasie, featuring full boning along the midriff. With a slightly longer cut, the body sits over the hip for a flattering silhouette. A continuous hook and eye fastening runs along the back, with silicone-free ‘stay for sure’ gripper elastic along the top edge for a no-slip fit.
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MAGIC BODY FASHION Presenting shaping products across lingerie and swimwear, Magic Body Fashion includes a diverse range of shapes in its new collection. One such style, the V-Body, is suited for wear underneath low-cut tops and dresses. Featuring a low plunging neckline, the style adds body shape all over. The special laser cut on the legs ensures the body is invisible underneath clothes.
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ANITA COMFORT Small problem areas are concealed and feminine curves are celebrated in the new Anita Comfort collection from Anita. Including up to size 52 back, bras feature wide padded comfort straps to prevent shoulder and neck discomfort and strong support through bust shaping due to tailored cups. An additional three styles are on offer for the new season.
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A tight fit Hosiery is returning to the spotlight for a/w 16, with colour, textures and pattern defining legwear trends for the season. WWB takes a look at what some of the key labels have to offer.
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JONATHAN ASTON Jonathan Aston once again demonstrates its fashion forward credentials with an on-trend a/w 16 hosiery range. This season sees the introduction of The Drama Queen Edit, a range that offers edgy elegance with bold expression. The damask print glamour tight is among the predicted bestsellers for the season, while the brand’s wide fishnet tight makes a return to the collection.
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ITEM M6 German legwear brand ITEM m6 is launching its Easy Line by ITEM m6 range this season, a diffusion collection to the brand’s core main line. Each piece provides optimal climate management and heat control, achieved through materials sourced and manufactured to the highest quality. The super-lightweight styles offer soft compression, allowing the legs to feel relaxed and adjusting to the body without pinching or sliding, giving a flattering, smooth silhouette. The women’s range comprises the Ajour Sock with a mesh optic, the 50-denier Polka Dottie tights and the 20-denier Stay Up Super Light with hypoallergenic band.
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ZOHARA A new launch to the UK, Zohara tights aims to create a combination of art, fashion quality and comfort, with much attention to detail. The range is colourful and fun, with an abundance of patterns and styles and a smooth and soft feel that will flatter every body shape from European sizes 34 to 50.
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CHARNOS The Charnos a/w 16 collection offers luxury knits, cosy cables and a variety of patterns. Key styles include floral opaque tights, sport retro chic styles, chevron opaque tights, snake skin opaques as well as glamorous back seam versions.
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FALKE Falke’s a/w 16 legwear collection is characterised by contrasts – primal, raw and organic on the one hand, feminine and romantic on the other. Sheer tights sport opulent patterns, while new lace stay-ups with floral cuffs add a feminine touch. Leaf structures, blossoms and tendrils on knee-highs and opaque tights draw from nature, while graphical large checks and diamonds create a striking juxtaposition. p
WOLFORD Multifunctionality, effortless elegance and holistic comfort are the dominating features of the Wolford look this season. Vivid graphic patterns and figure-hugging cuts meet extra-soft natural materials, while edgy see-through optics transform classic items into statement pieces. New this season are the Comfort Cut Tights, boasting an innovative double-finished waistband which can be individually adapted and personalised.
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OROBLU A sophisticated vibe permeates the hosiery collection at Oroblù. The collection features a vast array of colours and patterns ranging across tights, over-theknee socks, knee-highs and socks, as well as leggings. One of the key trend stories is Artisanal, which captures the essence of hand-made, creative designs and textures. Microfibre and micromodal fuse with the natural feel of wool and viscose in hues that accentuate the weave and patterns.
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Retailer spotlight: SELFRIDGES SET TO LAUNCH BODY STUDIO BRIGHTON INDIE LEADS THE WAY Plus-size retailer Emma Plus recently became the first shop in the UK to have a transparent LED video screen as part of its window display. The screen by digital signage experts SIS Digital is 80 per cent transparent, allowing the Brighton based retailer to present customers with the store interior. Though only a temporary shop window installation, for the owner of Emma Plus, Emma Hayes, the screen has been a positive experience. “I think that they are the biggest story that I have seen in retail display, and they will soon be in many windows,” says Hayes.
The Body Studio will launch in April and is set to be Selfridges’ largest new development in terms of floor space. Located on the third floor of the Oxford Street store, the Body Studio will cover 37,000 sq ft and will offer its customers more than 100 brands ranging in price from £8-£2,500, in loungewear, sleepwear, swim, hosiery and sportswear product categories. There will be a lingerie fit studio based within the area to provide customers with a professional fitting experience.
Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry
HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE , LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEB SITE , ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT REBECCA . JACKSON@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.
Web watch:
WWW. AGATHA-BOUTIQUE.CO.UK
Established by Roberta & Carl Jacklin in 1996, Agatha Boutique has become one of the largest luxury boutiques in Lincolnshire. As an exclusive stockist of brands including Paul Smith, A Postcard from Brighton and Urban Code, the retailer was voted one of the best UK boutiques by British Vogue in 2010. The retailer’s transactional website offers extra functions such as the site’s blog option which presents key style features, and the ‘new arrivals’ area which showcases fresh seasonal looks. Attractive on-site visuals lead the visitor to the boutique’s Instagram and Pinterest accounts, which communicate a strong aesthetic through regular posts with striking images. The site is also used as an integral tool for in-store promotion, with key services highlighted online.
CARYL HODGSON Founder of EZZA, Milsom Place, Bath
What is your current bestseller in-store? Our brand new arrivals from Bath based designer Bibi Herron, who launched her first collection of stunning large silk squares in the boutique last month. The scarves are dramatic and luxurious – made out of the finest silk and hand rolled in Lake Como. Each one is different, and the range has so many colours and original designs there’s something for everyone. Putting one on makes you feel glamorous and beautiful. How have you found trading over the last month? Challenging, other than the obligatory Sales period early on. I think there’s been so much sad and worrying news at the beginning of the year – with so many icons leaving us, China’s economy, the EU issues looming and the weather problems – that people aren’t convinced it’s all on the way up yet. What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store? Finding and introducing new designers and makers, launching them with invitation hosted events and trying out joint promotions with neighbouring retailers and restaurants. What’s on your agenda for the coming month? Focusing on some spring pieces and pushing these new arrivals via social media and online. Upbeat displays to get some energy going, and we’re looking at a couple of new locations in London and the south west. Exciting... watch this space!
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Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears
EDINBURGH BOUTIQUE PARTICIPATES IN FASHION WEEK
JUST G BOUTIQUE TOOK TO THE RUNWAY LAST MONTH AS PART OF EDINBURGH FASHION WEEK. PRESENTING A MIX OF DISTINCTLY FEMININE AND UNIQUE CLOTHING ST YLES FROM THE S/S 16 COLLECTIONS, WHICH WERE FRESH TO THE STORE , FEATURED BRANDS INCLUDED NOA NOA , SKUNKFUNK AND POSTCARD FROM BRIGHTON. THE RETAILER, BASED IN CENTRAL EDINBURGH, WORKED WITH OTHER BOUTIQUES IN THE SURROUNDING AREA TO CREATE A CATWALK SHOW IN ORDER TO INSPIRE ITS CUSTOMERS FOR THE SEASON AHEAD.
HENRY GRAHAM
Creative Director & Co-Founder of Wolf & Badger, London “Potential customers no longer browse the high street looking to be inspired in a traditional way, but instead start their journey online before entering a physical retail environment. At Wolf & Badger we leverage this to our advantage. Our online shop tells the story of the brands we carry, with beautiful imagery and editorial content. That is then reinforced by a variety of digital re-engagement strategies. We have to make it easy for customers to become inspired online and then use our physical stores as a real-world touch point where they can more deeply understand the product range and of course try it on. So although we have fewer browsers than in years past, we have gained more accredited shoppers entering the stores with a pre-informed purchasing intent.”
BOUTIQUE SITE WINS UK DISTRIBUTION DEAL New boutique-style beauty and occasions website Serenity & Grace secured an exclusive UK distribution deal with Irish fashion designers Niamh O’Neill and Caroline Kilkenny last month. The designers will join other brands recently added to the brand lineup including Dynasty, Nataliya Couture, Gina Bacconi and Emma Louise. The UK based website offers a full range of professional style, spa and salon services. Niamh O’Neill and Caroline Kilkenny are available to the UK exclusively at www.serenityandgrace.co.uk.
Q&A:
How are you merchandising in-store for spring/summer trading?
DIANE ALLAN
KAT AALAM
SALLY LONGDEN
ADRIANA GREEN
Co-owner, Algarde, Biggar, South Lanarkshire
Co-owner, Damsel Boutique, London W4
Owner of Stick & Ribbon, Nottingham
Owner, Scarecrow Boutique, London N8
“Our windows are filled with bright colours and pastels, though we’ve kept a few neutral colours in there to balance it out as the weather’s not quite warmed up yet. We group the clothes into colours, so visually s/s looks really nice with a more colourful display.”
“We’re embracing all things denim this season so have been showcasing new cuts, colours and styles of jeans in our windows alongside denim jumpsuits, overalls and shirts. We’ve also been doing a lot of merchandising with accessories from Becksondergaard. Our customers already know and love their scarves so we’re introducing the leather bags, clutches and umbrellas.”
“After a dark autumn/winter season, we have started to intersperse bolder colours to give a bit of brightness to the store. Our store offers individual and group colour analysis consultations so we tend to merchandise our stock in colour palettes. We have also introduced a new rail/shelving system in the centre of the store enabling us to highlight trends and new brands.”
“We have introduced a light and airy feel to our boutique for this s/s season, with new floral pink blossom floors in our changing rooms and white painted floors at the back of our boutique. Pink rails and hangers for our new focal areas, which includes our new line of cotton floral loungewear and a new label, One O Eight.”
PARAMOUNT KNITWEAR GROUP THE HOUSE OF FASHION ESTABLISHED 1974 AFTER NEARLY 40 YEARS OF EVOLVING EXPERIENCE WE HAVE AN UNRIVALLED REPUTATION FOR QUALITY AND BEST DESIGN COLLECTION OF KNITWEAR, CASUALWEAR, TOPS AND DRESSES. WE ARE DIRECT IMPORTERS OF LADIES HIGH FASHION CLOTHING AND ARE NOW SHOWING OUR:
SPRING/SUMMER 2016 COLLECTION & AUTUMN/WINTER 2016 COLLECTION
WE ALSO OFFER A TAILOR MADE SERVICE FOR SPECIAL CONTRACT ORDERS FOR THE UK AND EUROPE, MULTIPLE HIGH STREET STORES AND INDEPENDENT RETAILERS FROM OUR FAR EAST OFFICES AND FACTORIES.
OUR CREATIVE TEAMS HERE IN THE UK HEAD OFFICE AND OUR FAST EAST OFFICES AND FACTORIES OFFER PRODUCTS OF INDIVIDUAL CHOICE. WE DESIGN AND CREATE PRODUCTS FOR OUR CUSTOMERS WITH THEIR OWN LABEL TO SUIT THEIR ACTUAL NEEDS AND REQUIREMENTS FROM START TO FINISH.
PLEASE CONTACT OUR HEAD OFFICE: PARAMOUNT KNITWEAR (LEICESTER) LIMITED, 22A CENTURION WAY, MERIDIAN BUSINESS PARK, LEICESTER, LEICESTERSHIRE LE19 1WH UNITED KINGDOM TEL: +44 (0116) 263 00 44 FAX: +44 (0116) 263 01 01 WEBSITE: WWW. PARAMOUNTKNITWEAR.COM EMAIL: ashraf@paramountknitwear.com EMAIL: sales@paramountknitwear.com
40 YEARS OF EXCELLENCE IN FASHION ENJOY THE PARAMOUR CLUB COLLECTION
LONDON – PARIS – HONG KONG - SHANGHAI – DHAKA – NEW YORK COPYRIGHT © 2013-2016, EXCLUSIVE COPYRIGHT OF PARAMOUNT KNITWEAR (LEICESTER) LIMITED / OR ITS SUPPLIERS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. VIOLATION OF THIS COPYRIGHT, WILL RESULT IN PROSECUTION.
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E-tail Clinic
Essential e-commerce advice The expert view: How to successfully launch an e-commerce app Apps determine the daily lives of users and have already changed the fundamentals of shopping behaviour. To reach potential customers wherever they are, a mobile e-commerce strategy is essential. Advantages and Disadvantages of an App Before the launch of an app, the extent to which a business model can best be implemented in an app must be weighed. Compared with a mobile optimised website, apps demand specially tailored strategic approaches to reach people according to their needs anytime and anywhere. Arguments for investing in the development of an app can be summarised as follows: Advantages • Users have a strong physical and emotional bond to their smartphone and tablet apps. Once downloaded, they are always present and readily available on the home screen. • Users are already well aware of app features like photo uploading, GPS tracking or chat functions, which can be used easily and comfortably on smartphones. • App features such as push notifications allow direct contact with the user. • Smart Data: with intelligently evaluated user data the app can be personalised and tailored to each individual user. • Once logged in, users usually stay logged in. This solves the cookie problem. • Apps can provide additional monetisation by means of in-app purchases. • A/B testing can be better implemented in an app and generate more reliable data. On the other hand, the disadvantages that can accompany an app launch should not be disregarded. Individual factors could outweigh the advantages of app development. Disadvantages • The launch and the ongoing optimisation of an app bring with them expenses in development, maintenance and testing which should not be underestimated. This is also due to the highly fragmented and heterogeneous device situation. • Apps, like other programs, are not immune to bugs; therefore, longer lead times must be internalised during tests. Debugging and app releases must be planned in the long term, particularly for iOS apps. The Right Features When designing an app, it is also imperative to think about the right features. For example, if a website already exists, it is important to find out which current features can be usefully transferred to the app. In this case, the mobile usage situation must be taken into account once again. A 1:1 adaptation of the website features is not recommended in most cases. User Feedback The main difference between an app and a classic website is the power of user feedback. Before a user decides to download an app, he or she usually looks at the ratings of other users who have already downloaded the app. If the app was poorly implemented, this is visible at first glance. Once an app has a bad review, a large amount of resources are required to push the app again. Tip: Initially reduce the number of features and be willing to invest more in the quality of the app. Mathias Ziegler, founder and Chief Product Officer, stylefruits GmbH. For more information visit www.stylefruits.co.uk
Web chat: DANIELLE ROGERSCLARK Owner of Believe in… Boutique, Buckhurst Hill, Essex www.believeinboutique.co.uk
When did you launch your website and is it transactional? We launched our website in 2012 and it is transactional. What percentage of your business does your site constitute? At the moment the website is 15 per cent of our total sales. We are working on developing and growing this. Are you selling the same stock online as in-store? We do sell the same on both channels, but we keep some pieces that we have limited stock on as boutique only. Is your e-commerce arm growing, and what is driving this growth? Our e-commerce arm is definitely growing and we have seen a big rise in international orders over the last few months, particularly from the USA. We use Instagram and Facebook to drive these sales. What are your plans for the site and how would you like it to develop? We would love to develop the site further and are working hard to do this, and are learning as we go. We are working on a quicker turnaround of getting the stock online. The plan is for the website to be a successful addition to the boutique. It is a good feeling when an item sells online on a Sunday or late at night when the boutique is closed, and we are definitely looking to increase our online presence and sales.
51% Percentage of UK online retail sales made through mobile devices in Q4 2015/2016 – the first time smartphones and tablets exceeded desktop purchases. *SOURCE: IMRG
80
%
PERCENTAGE OF SHOPPERS WHO WANT TO SEE LOYALTY SCHEMES LAUNCHED ACROSS MOBILE SHOPPING APPS. *SOURCE: APADMI
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Alexi London 07843 276552 www.alexilondon.com Almost Famous 020 7637 2622 www.almostfamousclothing.com Anita Comfort 0049 8034301333 www.anita.com Bohemian Jewellery Tattoos 07783 685725 www.bohemianjewellerytats.com Bulaggi 0031 0356212757 www.bulaggi.com Charnos www.charnos.co.uk Curvy Kate 020 8427 2923 www.curvykate.com Dante 01260 226588 www.dantejewellery.com Elliot Rhodes 020 7730 4000 www.elliotrhodes.com Falke 020 7331 1430 www.falke.com Fantasie 01536 760282 www.fantasie.com Freya 01536 760282 www.freyalingerie.com Helen Moore 01884 860900 www.helenmoore.com ID Hats 0031 455715107 www.idhats.com Item m6 www.shop.item-m6.co.uk Jonathan Aston www.jonathanaston.com Magic Body Fashion 0031 546727305 www.magicbodyfashion.com Mint&Rose 020 7351 9352 www.mintandrose.com Mi-Pac 020 7739 7620 www.mi-pac.com Miraclesuit 01423 885374 www.miraclesuit.com Moccis 0333 5777500 www.moccis.co.uk Naomi & Nicole 01423 885374 www.patricia-eve.co.uk Native Youth 0161 835 2064 www.native-youth.com Oroblu 07788870312 / 07977 509210 www.oroblu.co.uk Paul’s Boutique 020 8845 8826 www.paulsboutique.com Quay Australia 0161 272 9381 www.quayaustralia.com Saucony Originals www.saucony.co.uk Skunkfunk 020 7702 0203 www.skunkfunk.com Stance www.stance.com Tatty Devine 01634 818772 www.tattydevine.com UNQ 020 7291 0522 www.unq-shop.com Wacoal 01536 760282 www.wacoallingerie.com White Leaf 0161 480 4225 www.whiteleafcompany.co.uk Wolford 020 7494 4343 www.wolfordshop.co.uk WonderLuk 020 3773 6877 www.wonderluk.com Zandra Rhodes 020 7403 5333 www.zandrarhodes.com Zohara 0845 094 6603 www.alterego-lingerie.com
Next issue MORAL FIBRE WWB puts the spotlight on ethical brands and the continued growth of fashion with a conscience. AESTHETICS MEETS ETHICS People Tree founder Safia Minney shares some of the insights from her latest book on the slow fashion movement. THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT The key in-season labels to spruce up your s/s offer.
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The Last Word with... Sara Cohen Founder of luxury womenswear label Sara C What’s the naughtiest thing you’ve ever done? I’m the youngest of twins and a middle child. I excelled in being the black sheep of our family. I’ll leave the rest to your imagination. What are the top three things on your bucket list? Diving with Hammerheads off Cocos Island. The Annapurna circuit. A month designing in Bali… I’m a bit of a nature freak. What’s your favourite tipple? Matcha latte – I love the ritual of whisking the matcha with hot water, serving it in a special cup and how great it makes me feel. I’ve had enough hangovers to last me a lifetime. What could you cope better with, no internet or no mobile for the day? I would love a few weeks away without either. We’ve become so reliant on phones for being connected, so it would be great to enjoy the freedom of not being tied to my phone and being more aware of everything around me. Would you rather rewind life or pause it? Neither. I’d like to be better at juggling my time so I have more time to spend doing the things I love with the people I love.
Name: Sara Cohen Job title: Founder and designer, Sara C From: London Lives: London
What’s your happiest childhood memory? Summers in Spain with my parents’ best friends and their kids. Six children being able to run amok in safety while relaxed parents looked on. Happy days. Which song sums you up? No Rights No Wrongs by Jess Glynne. There’s no guide map for our lives. My aunt once said that we can learn more from what we do and don’t enjoy than anything else. And it’s been so true. I’ve taken plenty of wrong turns and made lots of mistakes. But I’ve also had lots of fun and learnt what I love. I believe it’s all the rights and wrongs that take us to where we are. It’s taken me on a crazy journey that I plan on continuing.
What makes you laugh? My two nieces. Their enthusiasm for everything is contagious. What’s your guilty pleasure? Dark chocolate. What’s your secret talent? I love diving with sharks (if that’s a talent). I spent six months working as a dive master in Malaysia. I got to dive with very big fish. It was a really special time. What achievement are you most proud of? As cliched as it sounds, starting Sara C. I started the label with a dream of designing my own prints and doing something I loved. With no background in fashion or design, it has been a crazy journey so far, and I have to keep reminding myself of how far I’ve come in three years. If you didn’t run your own fashion label, what would you be doing? I love designing. It’s the little things that make me happy: a fresh bunch of flowers or wearing a piece that I love. So it would have to be either a jewellery designer or a florist.