MWB MAGAZINE MAY ISSUE 230 by fashion buyers Ltd

ISSUE 230 | MAY 2016 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

FAST FASHION THE SHORT ORDER PRODUCT TO BUY INSTORE THIS SUMMER — ABOUT THE BOY KARLMOND TANG TALKS BLOGGING, WARDROBE INFLUENCES AND DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS — LONDON CALLING NEW FACES AT THIS SEASON’S LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN

Paris 25 - 27 June 2016

Men’s Women’s Pre-collections Parfums Cité de la Mode et du Design Palais de la Bourse

han r more t Discove ners and ig 300 des brands perfume r two u across o ! u n ve es

TRANOÏ | New York: Women’s · Men’s · Parfums

TRANOÏ | Paris: Women’s

17 - 19 Sept. 2016

Sept. 30 - Oct. 3 2016

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 12

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

A model example

Discovering the success of Norwich indie J&B Menswear

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock

Jet setter

In-season stock

Crown Jewels

Fashion forward

Eight of the key brands to catch at London Collections Men

Douglas & Grahameâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s double brand assault

A milestone year for a key name in British menswear

In-season trends

The key s/s 16 trends and products to get in-store now

Top tips for successful e-tailing

Essential advice from e-commerce experts

R E G U L A R S 7 8 18

Comment News Interview

Christian Bourke

44 47 50

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders Withâ&#x20AC;Ś

Karlmond Tang

Front cover: Sperry 020 337 62740

PREMIUM MENSWEAR TRADE SHOW 2 7 & 2 8 J U LY 2 0 1 6

OLD TRUMAN BREWERY LONDON

JACKET-REQUIRED.COM

#JACKETREQD #JACKETREQUIRED

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | COMMENT | 07

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — W R I T E R Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2016 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

In the short space of 24 hours our high street saw two prominent faces fall into administration, and although the uncertain future of BHS and Austin Reed comes as a surprise to few following a number of tough trading years, it did bring those economic fears and concerns bubbling back to the surface once again. — These two casualties had one thing in common – neither changed with the modern shopper. With consumers looking first and foremost for convenience and price, neither BHS nor Austin Reed excelled in either. But it didn’t have to be this way, as retail guru Mary Portas pointed out after the news broke. “If I had been at British Home Stores I would have looked at today’s market place and created a brand that is relevant for today’s shopper,” explained Portas in a recent interview with The Guardian. “I would have gone totally after the value market, but made it functional and cool. I would have started with where it was good – the lighting. Then I would have extended that to become a modern British lifestyle retailer at a great price.” In this instance, I have to agree with the retail advisor. When BHS’s head was still above water, I said a number of times how it didn’t play up its strength – its homeware. It’s as though when it was sold last March for £1 to the relatively unknown Retail Acquisitions, it was stripped of all vision. Which in turn saw it die a slow death. Although things may seem a little bleak for the retail landscape here in the UK, a recent report by Google reveals that British retailers continue to drive interest from beyond our borders. Some of the largest major European markets, such as Germany, are driving much of that growth. Total British retail search volumes in Europe grew, in fact, by 52 per cent in the first quarter of 2016 compared with the same quarter a year ago. Surprisingly it was the Czech Republic that demonstrated the strongest appetite for UK retailers, reporting a staggering 256 per cent increase on mobile device searches in the first quarter of 2016. So not only is interest in UK retail growing steadily on the continent, EU consumers are also far more likely to be experiencing the British retail offer through their smartphones. And on that slightly more optimistic note, I leave you with this issue of MWB, which takes a look at the short order brands who are able to react to current spending trends, the key issues in e-commerce and the first look at the s/s 17 show schedule, starting with London Collections Men. Victoria Jackson Editor

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

DENTS AWARDED ROYAL WARRANT

IMPACT OF BREXIT ON UK RETAILERS UNCLEAR The impact of Brexit is unquantifiable at this stage, as no one knows what alternative treaties would be set up with Europe, a report by international specialist banking group Investec reveals. With no precedent, no one can predict with any certainty who would be the main beneficiaries and losers from such a step. Currently, the UK is part of the EU single market with free movement of goods, services, people and capital. In the event of a Brexit, the status quo may not change in some areas, as everything will be up for negotiation. However, a Brexit is likely to change the UK’s relationship with the EU. Investec’s study identifies five key issues retailers might face, including weaker consumer demand, sterling weakness, labour cost pressure, change in trade terms and the basis on which investment decisions are made. According to the findings, the impact of a Brexit vote would likely be negative for UK retail demand. It would take two years to negotiate an exit, which would cause uncertainty and potentially impact GDP growth. However, the report concedes that any profit impact should be less than the sector experienced in 2008, as business models are generally more flexible today. Likely sterling weakness would benefit – both from a translation and transactional perspective – those retailers with material overseas earnings, including the likes of ASOS, SuperGroup and Boohoo, and/or a meaningful cost of goods bought in sterling and sold in euros, such as M&S and Debenhams. More restrictive immigration rules could result in higher labour costs from lower availability of low skilled employees, though the report does highlight that the inflation facing the industry from the introduction of the Living Wage in April 2016 and Apprenticeship Levy in 2017 already exceeds this. The report foresees little change to trade terms following Brexit, as most retailers already source from non-EU countries such as China, and already pay import duty on sourced product. An impact on corporate investment decisions is also said to be unlikely, as most retailers base investment decisions on the legal system, stability, developed nature of the market and local consumer tastes. The study concedes that none of these effects are new to the UK retail industry, and suggests that most are probably surmountable. Any impact on the economy, GDP growth and consumer demand would be unhelpful for UK plc generally, and the retail industry specifically, however it is suggested that retail would be relatively better positioned than many other sectors from a stock market perspective. Companies with international earnings, high margins, flexible cost bases and a UK sourcing bias are most likely in the strongest position. The report concludes that the status quo would definitely offer more medium term certainly, which should be positive for the economy, sentiment and demand both from a corporate and consumer perspective. In contrast, Brexit offers a degree of medium term uncertainty as only once the negotiations are finalised would it be possible to begin to work out the costs and benefits of a Brexit to the UK economy and corporates. —

UK heritage brand Dents has been granted a Royal Warrant of Appointment to HRH The Prince of Wales for the manufacture of gloves. Based in Warminster, Wiltshire, Dents has been manufacturing leather gloves since 1777 – during the reign of George III – and today exports across the world. The company has already had long connections with the British Royal Family, creating special gloves for Queen Victoria and the unique gloves used in the coronation services for both HRH King George VI in 1937 and Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. In recent years a brand new Dents factory and head office was opened by the Princess Royal and last year the Duchess of Cornwall visited Dents to present emplyees with long service awards. —

BASE LONDON RECEIVES COVETED AWARD British men’s footwear brand Base London has been announced as the winner of the 2016 Queen’s Award for International Trade. To mark the 90th birthday of Queen Elizabeth II, the Queen’s Awards for Enterprise recognises growth and success in international trade over the previous three years. Base London is one of a few businesses to be awarded the UK’s highest accolade for business success. “Since the launch of Base London we have been committed not only to driving our sales and brand awareness in new international markets, but have also passionately flown the flag for the great work delivered by the UK in terms of contemporary men’s footwear,” says Base London chairman, David Conibere. “To receive the award in the year that Her Majesty celebrates her 90th birthday, and the same year that Base London notches up its 21st anniversary, is the icing on the cake.” —

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | NEWS | 09

NEWS IN BRIEF

MEET THE MANUFACTURER’S NEW INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION

NEW FORMAT FOR FASHION AWARDS 2016

This year’s Meet the Manufacturer conference will explore the future of UK manufacturing at its next edition, held at The Old Truman Brewery, London on 25-26 May. Providing a platform for the debate ‘Heritage vs Innovation’, the theme reflects the growing surge of opinion that a new industrial revolution is upon the country. New for 2016 is ‘Me and my Manufacturer’, a panel discussion which will bring together designers and manufacturers to share secrets of building a good partnership with your factory, chaired by Pete Schonbeck of the London Small Business Centre and including designer Nick Ashley and Mike Stoll, managing director of Cooper & Stollbrand. The line-up for the two-day conference also includes speakers Ian Maclean, managing director at John Smedley, Tim Walker, director of Walsh and Peter Needle, CEO and co-founder of Segura. —

The Fashion Awards 2016 returns later this year with a new format and venue. Now held at London’s Royal Albert Hall, the event, which takes place on 5 December, will be an annual fundraiser gala for the British Fashion Council (BFC) Education Foundation charity. Focusing on raising significant funds over the next 10 years, money raised will fund education scholarships to help the best talent attend leading fashion colleges. Previously known as the British Fashion Awards, this year’s event, held in partnership with Swarovski, will celebrate the best of British and international fashion talent. Last year’s ceremony saw over 450 VIPs and industry heavyweights including Anna Wintour, David Beckham and Karl Lagerfeld in attendance, alongside a sold-out auditorium of over 2,000 guests. Tickets for the general public are on sale now. —

THE HUB WELCOMES INCREASED VISITOR NUMBERS

HOUSE OF FRASER RETURNS TO PROFIT

Fashion trade show The HUB, which took place last month at the Lafayette Art & Design Centre in Shanghai, has once again been hailed a success, with the best emerging fashion talent as well as cutting edge design brought to China’s fashion capital. Running alongside Shanghai Fashion Week, The HUB presented 60 international and Chinese designers and brands and attracted over 1,500 industry visitors, as well as more than 1,500 attendees at the nine catwalk shows held over the three days, a threefold increase on last season’s event. This season’s HUB featured some of London’s most in-demand designers with the support of the UK’s Fashion is GREAT initiative. Catwalk shows featured UK designers Sibling, Ryan Lo, Henry Holland, plus Fashion East’s Mimi Wade, AV Robertson, Caitlin Price and Richard Malone. —

Highland Group Holdings, the parent company of House of Fraser, has announced record sales and a return to profit for the first time since 2006. The trading update for the 52 weeks to 30 January reveals a sales increase of 4.2 per cent on a like-for-like 52 week basis, with total gross transaction value of £1.3bn. Online sales continued to grow, increasing by 26.8 per cent, representing 18.9 per cent of total sales, while bricks and mortar store sales increased 0.1 per cent on a like-for-like 52 week basis. The group recorded a gross profit of £484.1 million, up £23.9m, representing a 5.2 per cent increase on the previous year. Profits before tax amounted to £1.3m, the first profit since 2006. Operational highlights include a strong performance in menswear and accessories, up 8.5 per cent and 4.6 per cent respectively. —

SPERRY LAUNCHES UK RETAIL CAMPAIGN, #SPERRYMYWAY This month will see the launch of lifestyle brand Sperry’s new UK focused campaign, #SperryMyWay. Supporting retail stores such as Schuh, Size? and Foot Asylum, the campaign will celebrate the authentic heritage of the boat shoe, as well as telling the stories of young individuals and their artistic endeavours. The campaign will feature up-and-coming music producer Bakar, model, DJ and music producer Luke Story and Karlmond Tang, founder of menswear fashion blog Mr. Boy, all captured by youth focused photographer and film maker Joshua Osborne. — LONDONEDGE RETURNS TO ISLINGTON Londonedge is returning to Islington’s Business Design Centre for its a/w 16 edition, which takes place on 4-6 September. A host of alternative, street and lifestyle labels will be on show, with an increased quota of international visitors once again expected to attend. For more information and to pre-register visit www.londonedge.com — THOMAS PINK RENEWS BRITISH & IRISH LIONS PARTNERSHIP Shirt maker Thomas Pink has announced that it will once again renew its partnership with the British & Irish Lions, dressing the team in formalwear for its 2017 tour to New Zealand. The brand will provide the players from the home nations with blazers, ties and its Athletic Fit shirt. For the 2017 Lions tour, Thomas Pink will also launch a retail collection for supporters in October this year, with a full range of both casual and formal outfits. To mark this launch, the brand will unveil its very own tongue-in-cheek rugby club, captained by one of the all-time Lions greats, as well as incorporating consumer events, an online hub and monthly newsletters. — FATFACE OPENS UPSIZED STORE Lifestyle clothing and accessories retailer FatFace has opened its new upsized store at Bluewater, Europe’s leading retail and leisure destination. The multi-channel brand has doubled its presence to create a 7,753 sq ft statement store on the upper Rose Gallery. The new contemporary FatFace showcases the brand’s entire ranges across womenswear, menswear, kids and accessories. A bold store front combining glass and steel creates a welcoming and bright environment which is now all on one level. Internally, the colour palette is lighter and fresher to create a more textured feel. The FatFace personality has been woven throughout the new concept and bespoke fixtures allow consumers to navigate the store and specific product categories with ease. The upsizing trend at Bluewater began with Topshop’s recently expanded 27,000 sq ft regional flagship, which is adjacent to FatFace’s new store. Next and H&M have also followed suit and upsized their retail spaces. Next opened its new 44,000 sq ft store on Bluewater’s Thames Walk last November. H&M’s new and improved 40,000 sq ft store, also on the Thames Walk, is still under construction, and is expected to open this autumn. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | NEWS | 10

NEWS IN BRIEF INDIA INTERNATIONAL GARMENT FAIR PROMISES INNOVATION The 57th India International Garment Fair will be held from 18 to 20 July in Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, India. Around 500 Indian manufacturers are expected to present their innovations under one umbrella, showcasing their expertise in prints, tie & dye and high end embroidery. IIGF is the biggest international trade fair for fashion, covering womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, scarves and stoles, fashion accessories and jewellery. —

FYNCH HATTON EXPANDS COLLECTION

BOOHOO PROFITS SURGE

Lifestyle label Fynch Hatton is expanding its s/s 17 collection following a recorded 20 per cent increase in orders for s/s 16, and an impressive 24 per cent growth for the following a/w 16 season. Expanding its November/December delivery with a larger early collection for s/s 17, the brand will capitalise on its recent growth, following the opening of several high quality accounts, and a loyal base of existing customers. Developing from a shirt and knitwear specialist, Fynch Hatton now offers a complete lifestyle collection including trousers, outwear, blazers and footwear. Here in the UK, the brand, managed by Mike Spriggs Agencies, has welcomed a 40 per cent increase in stockists for the a/w 16 selling period, as brand recognition continues to grow. —

Young fashion e-tailer Boohoo has announced another set of strong financial results, with revenues up by 40 per cent for the year ended 29 February. Revenue rose from £139.8m last year to £195.3m, with gross profit up by 33 per cent to £112.9m, up from £85m. The growth has been attributed to further development of the product ranges, as well as expansion in key markets. The brand has more than 4 million active customers, an increase of 34 per cent on the previous year. Boohoo has also launched apps in the UK, USA and Australia, as well as introducing responsive websites for its European sites, improving its mobile and tablet offering. “Active customer numbers, order frequency and conversion have all increased on last year as we continue to invest in building customer lifetime value,” says Mahmud Kamani, joint CEO. —

PARASPAR DEVELOPS NEW SEARCH CAPABILITY TOOL

NEWNESS DEFINES NEXT EDITION OF TRANOI

The Dune Group, one of the leading players in fashion footwear and accessories has launched a new powerful search facility, developed by ecommerce agency Paraspar, powered by Elastic Search. A feature-rich and scalable search solution, Elastic Search allows Dune to have thousands of products, super-fast search and autocomplete, unlimited facets, advanced spelling correction and search merchandising. Paraspar have been providers of their ecommerce services to Dune over many years. They combine a powerful and flexible eCommerce platform with a responsive and agile service to help their clients engage with their customers and embrace the online opportunity. They have over 19 years of experience in the design, build and management of eCommerce web sites for innovative and market leading multichannel retailers. www.paraspar.co.uk —

French premium trade show Tranoï will open its doors on 25 to 27 June at Cité de la Mode et du Design and Palais de la Bourse. The show will no longer be called Tranoï Homme & Preview, but will be renamed Tranoï Paris: Men’s, Women’s Precollections & Parfums in order to accommodate the international spirit of the show. To keep ahead of a fast-evolving market, Tranoï Paris: Women’s Precollections is held during Paris Men’s Fashion Week which takes place at the beginning of the buying season, allowing womenswear designers to present their collections more frequently and stock to be constantly renewed within retail distribution channels. For the coming edition, the show welcomes menswear brands such as Alto Milano, DNL, Domrebel Montreal, GBS Trousers, Harris Wharf London, Lardini, Northskull, Roberto Collina and more. For more information visit www.tranoi.com —

MUSIC MAKEOVER FOR FASHION STORES Professional music consultancy PRS for Music is giving fashion stores the chance to win £5,000 worth of music equipment, plus invaluable guidance from music experts as part of its Music Makeover competition. Launched in 2011, initially for the pub sector, to promote the importance of music in business, the competition is now being extended to fashion stores. PRS for Music is also offering a bespoke music consultation from a leading music and technology expert, advising on the best use of music in stores, and a launch event to celebrate and promote the win. For more information and to enter visit www.prsformusic.com — BIRA EXPANDS BIRMINGHAM OFFICE The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) has purchased 225a Bristol Road, a 4,000 sq ft building at the rear of its present premises, enabling it to expand its operations on that site. Commenting on the acquisition, Group CEO Alan Hawkins said that having two freehold premises within five metres of each other would enable the long-term plan of bringing all the staff to one location to come to fruition. The Middleton Cheney (Banbury) premises will be sold over the course of the next year; arrangements are being made to transfer as many members of staff to Birmingham as possible. A modernisation programme will be undertaken on both buildings, giving Bira a more forward looking and contemporary feel. The move to the new premises is not expected to happen before autumn 2016. — ASOS TO DISCONTINUE LOCAL CHINA OPERATION The board of ASOS has decided to discontinue local operations in China and to continue to serve its growing China customer base via ASOS.com, which will offer around 80,000 products. The financial impacts of this decision are estimated at one-off closure costs of up to £10m, of which the majority will be non-cash, and operating losses to closure in the current financial year of around £4m (pre-tax figures). — KATHRYN SARGENT OPENS STORE ON SAVILE ROW Kathryn Sargent has opened her own tailoring house on Savile Row, London, for s/s 16 as part of a seasonal residency. As head cutter and Master Tailor of the store, Sargent is the first female Master Tailor in four centuries in the prestigious Piccadilly location. Sargent does not have a specific style; instead craft from the consultation to the finished garment is tailored to the wearer’s lifestyle and requirements. The shop is a sister store to the established Kathryn Sargent on London’s Brook Street, which provides tailoring for both men and women. —

GENT

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | ADVICE | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: HOW TO PREVENT CUSTOMERS BECOMING STRANGERS IN STORE

RICHARD KOLODYNSKI is the senior vice president of European Operations at iVend Retail and can be contacted via www.ivend.com

Despite fashion retailers’ efforts to integrate the omnichannel experience, consumers are increasingly disappointed by in-store encounters when compared with online. While retailers can build an extremely detailed digital picture of a customer, such as buying preferences from previous purchases, allowing them to better meet that individual’s ongoing needs, this information is ‘disappearing’ when the customer enters the store. Our latest research found that 51 per cent of UK consumers carry out the majority of their shopping in bricks-and-mortar outlets, yet 40 per cent believe that they were more likely to have a disappointing experience in the store than online. One in 10 even said they felt like a retailer’s ‘friend’ online, but anonymous in the store. The problem stems from the fact that shoppers are using the store differently and 68 per cent research purchases online before they reach the aisle. As retailers create highly personalised experiences online, consumers are growing used to this level of customisation and, in turn, are left deflated when this is not continued in-store. As a result, 52 per cent of UK consumers would like retailers to have a ‘single view’ of them, which combines their online and offline shopping habits. Retailers looking to boost omnichannel conversions should look to make changes to unify their offering and ensure customers receive a seamless brand experience, no matter what channel they choose to shop in. To achieve this in the store environment, retailers need the technology to bring digital capabilities to the shop floor, utilising customer data and operational information to better personalise in-store encounters. By making product recommendations in a timely manner based on previous transactions, extending stock availability beyond the shelf edge and placing online orders to a customer’s preferred delivery or collection point, the store can start to behave in the same informed, flexible manner as online shopping, helping fashion retailers improve omnichannel conversions. —

WEB WATCH

WWW.MAKEITBRITISH.CO.UK Make it British has been an essential resource for those looking for British product since it launched in 2011. With a comprehensive directory of craftspeople, spanning clothing to home and even stationery, retailers looking to support UK manufacturing are able to find everything under one roof. Alongside the directory sits both interviews and in-depth features about the brands the site promotes, looking at the various ways manufacturing in the UK continues to survive. —

NEWS

UK’S OLDEST SATCHEL MAKER EXCEEDS CROWDFUNDING TARGET British brand The Leather Satchel Co. has raised over £50,000 during a crowdfunding campaign on Kickstarter, with the aim of developing an online tool that allows customers to personalise their own satchels. The success of the campaign, which was launched in conjunction with the brand’s 50th anniversary, now means a state-ofthe-art customisation tool will be launched that allows customers to choose their own design and preview their bag in real time. With thousands of different style variations available, the personalisation tool will allow customers to make their satchels as distinctive as they like. Supporters were able to pledge upwards of £15 to fund the online design tool, with a wide variety of personalised bags, satchels and experiences offered as rewards for supporting the campaign. “Our bags last for decades, and each one tells a unique story, not just through its design, but through the way it ages,” says Keith Hanshaw, The Leather Satchel Co.’s managing director. “We want to show people just how distinctive we can make our bags and exactly what we can do to personalise each individual bag. We can make whatever anybody wants; we can craft their ideal bag designed to fit their lifestyle, but at the moment people are unaware of what we’re capable of making for them. The purpose of the Kickstarter is to fund a crafting tool so that people can go online and start designing their own bags,” he adds. — MENLOOK CREATES FIRST INSTAGRAM-LED TV ADVERT Forward-thinking e-commerce website Menlook has chosen to harness social media platform Instagram as a creative base for its forthcoming TV advertising campaign. The five influencers working with Menlook include blogger Will Taylor (@BrightBazaar), photographer Mike Quyen (@Qmike) and architect Romain Costa (@RomainCosta). The campaign draws inspiration from the popular Instagram trend, the flat lay – a creative process that involves organising a series of objects harmoniously on a flat surface and photographing them from above. —

c o n t e m p o R A Ry fA s h i o n t R A d e s h o w

28 - 30 June 2016 A R e n A B e Rl i n

w w w. s e e k e x h i Bi t i o n s . c o m

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

VIEWPOINT MELISSA WHEELER speaks to Matthew Rawlings, a director at independent retailer Coe’s. Coe’s is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

DEREK ROSE MAKES RETAIL DEBUT Premium lounge and underwear label Derek Rose has made its retail debut in Notting Hill, London. Located next to accessory designer Anya Hindmarch and Ottolenghi, the store can be found on the corner of Westbourne Grove and Ledbury Road. The store will feature a core selection of the Derek Rose leisure, sleep and underwear collections for men, women and children. In terms of interiors, the distinctive shop front is comprised of multiple glass panes, finished with modern fixtures in light grey wood and charcoal powder-coated metal. The decor is both minimalist and warm, allowing the prints and details of the clothing on display to be the main focal point. The store opening marks an exciting time for the family owned business. With wellestablished and loyal stockists around the world, the next natural step for the company was to find a home to showcase their range of clothing for all the family. “After nearly 100 years in the business focusing on wholesale and more recently our online site, we are extremely excited to open our first physical store. This will really allow us to showcase the pieces we believe in and project our message of ‘smart comfort’ to a wider audience,” says Sacha Rose, managing director, Derek Rose. — NEWS IN BRIEF AUSTIN REED FILES FOR ADMINISTRATION Nearly 1,000 jobs are at risk following the news that suit specialist Austin Reed has filed a notice of intention to appoint administrators. At the time of going to press the company, which also owns the Viyella and CC fashion brands, is understood to have lined up insolvency experts AlixPartners to handle the process. Last year saw Austin Reed close 31 unprofitable stores across the UK, as well as moving its Regent Street store to a small premises. —

SLOANE STREET DEVELOPMENT WELCOMES INTERNATIONAL NAMES International luxury brands Delpozo, Red Valentino and Boutique One have signed leases to open flagship stores in London as part of the 131 Sloane Street development, a new sixstorey building that spans more than 135,000 square feet. Multi-brand retailer Boutique One will open its first UK store, building on its established concept in the Middle East, where it offers designer brands including Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler and Adam Lippes. —

To say that the retail industry is changing at a rapid pace and has been for the past 15 years is a platitude. It’s vital that we as retailers stay abreast of a constantly shifting environment and stay attuned to what our customers want. During my 15 years at Coes, other than product based training, I have had very little formalised training and have simply ‘learned on the job’. This appears to have served me fairly well but I felt it would be hugely beneficial to both myself and my employer for me to attend the Oxford Summer School Masters Course at Keble College this year, to a) ensure that we’re on the right strategic track and b) learn from fellow retailers. The course was as mentally stimulating and challenging as it was enjoyable. Taking a step away from the business but still being able to think about it was a unique experience for me. As independent retailers, we need to be involved with all facets of the business from buying through to merchandising and staff management, so it’s a question of complete immersion with little opportunity to consider the business objectively. Being able to reconsider accepted truths and look at the business in a fresh light is a valuable skill any of us can develop and taking a step back from the shop is something any retailer can do. It’s been an eventful year for Coes, following a tremendous refurbishment at the Goddards store, where we have overhauled the space and transformed the premises into a veritable fashion destination, complete with artisan coffee and WiFi lounge. Standing still is never an option in retail and especially not in the competitive marketplace in which we all trade. Having made the effort to step back, look at the business with a fresh set of eyes and take action, I feel invigorated, inspired and proud to be working in independent retail and excited about the future. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: PETER TURNER Has Leicester winning the Premier League title given the city a feelgood factor? The city itself has been buzzing for a while now. People have wanted to talk about what's been happening, and naturally gravitate to the shops and bars. We’ve have had a good month, so I suspect that it has helped. Do you think your 15 per cent off celebratory online promotion, with the 'Vardy Party' code, will drive sales? We just wanted to mark the occasion by giving a little incentive, not just to the people in Leicester, but to all of our customers. We haven't done it specifically to drive sales, it was more of a nod PETER TURNER, OWNER, WELLGOSH, to this season’s incredible achievement. LEICESTER Will you be getting any specific product that relates to Leicester's triumph? There is talk of an exciting collaboration project with a major sponsor, but it’s not been finalised. We didn't want to tempt fate by doing anything too early, but now the title is ours we can without jinxing things! Are there parties going on that people are buying new clothes for? The city has gone crazy, so I reckon it's going to be one long party from now until the end of the season. I'm sure everyone's going to want to look their best. TV crews from all over the world have descended on the city, and you don't want to be caught on camera wearing last year’s clobber. Are any of the Leicester players customers of Wellgosh? Jeff Schlupp likes his trainers, so he's in quite a lot, also Andy King has been coming in for some time. I think a lot of the players must come into town in disguise now; they are going to find it hard to walk around without being stopped every few seconds. —

IN FOCUS: STUARTS LONDON 35-37 UXBRIDGE RD , LONDON W12 8LH

ESTABLISHED: 1967 BRANDS: NIKE , ADIDAS, ARMANI, EDWIN, LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING, NUDIE, BARBOUR, OLIVER SPENCER, NAKED AND FAMOUS DENIM, BARACUTA, FILSON, GRENSON, CLARKS ORIGINALS, NOVESTA, SHOES LIKE POTTERY

WOOD WOOD OPENS NEW COPENHAGEN STORE Wood Wood continues its global expansion with the latest opening of a new store at Gl. Kongevej in Frederiksberg, a borough of Copenhagen, Denmark. Besides its own brand the store will be stocking Comme des Garçons, WTAPS, Nike, Jacquemus, SNS Herning, Adidas and many other labels. The store is located in the vibrant Vaernedamsvej area in Copenhagen and Wood Wood hopes to contribute to the development of the neighbourhood. Designed by creative director of Wood Wood, Karl-Oskar Olsen, the interior features a mix of large windows, coloured elements and versatile materials, designed to reflect the brand ideology and key concepts of creativity, quality and attitude. —

NEWS IN BRIEF Originally a tailor’s shop founded by one Stuart Zigleman back in 1967, by the early 80s Stuarts was a destination shop for every football casual in West London – as well as visiting fans playing away at nearby Queens Park Rangers. Fila, Sergio Tacchini, Ellesse and Diadora were the order of the day. Ravi Grewal and his brothers, Harjit and Gurjit, took over the business in 1987, keeping the shop name as it was so well known with a good regular customer base. “The name adds value to the heritage of the business,” says Ravi Grewal. “The business has changed drastically over the last 10 years. The launch of the website helped expose our business further in territories that would have been unavailable otherwise. My role, as the creative director, has been to develop Stuarts London as a brand and focus on changing the brand portfolio. We now stock over 200 brands sourced globally.” Grewal says the store is currently looking at its very best , merchandised accordingly by brand. So far this season, footwear in particular has performed very strongly, with limited edition releases from Nike and Adidas proving massive hits. Rag and Bone, Still by Hand, Wood Wood and Jacob Cohen will be new to the shop’s well edited brand mix for a/w16. —

JOHN LEWIS SWEEPS THE BOARD AT VERDICT RETAIL AWARDS John Lewis came out as the big winner of Verdict Retail 2016 Customer Satisfaction Awards, accepting six awards across a variety of categories including best clothing retailer and best in-store experience. The British department store group surpassed the likes of Asos and Adidas as best clothing retailer during the awards ceremony, held last month at the Millennium Gloucester Hotel in Kensington. The awards, which are based on shoppers' opinions rather than industry views, also saw online pureplayer AO.com hold on to its crown as best retailer, repeating its success in 2015. —

STOCK AVAILABLE NOW

UKSALES@BRAVESOUL.CO.UK

TEL: 0161 831 3700

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A MODEL EXAMPLE Having redefined itself as a premium destination during periods of economic downturn, J&B Menswear is a model example of independent retail. Now, as the Norwich-based store celebrates its 50-year anniversary, the future is looking bright, as Christina Chambers discovers. — For would-be record producer Darren Hoggett, creating a successful business model has been all about timing. Having fallen into the family business aged eight simply because “an extra pair of hands was needed”, the entrepreneur has been integral in transforming a vibrant market stall into a premium menswear retail destination. Five decades on from its inception, J&B Menswear is an industry institution both inside and outside of its native Norwich, but its growth has been an organic process, as Hoggett explains. “Having foreseen the split in the middle market, we had a clear vision to make J&B an upper middle market store,” says Hoggett, who co-owns the store alongside brother Paul. “But we have also seen three recessions, and a badly run business will always be found out when the going gets tough. We were keen to slowly and steadily get to where we wanted the business to be, while taking our customers with us.” Citing Fred Perry – one of the store’s key labels – as a model example and an inspiration of how to reposition a brand, J&B Menswear set about redefining its identity when it was brought under the Hoggett family’s full ownership 20 years ago. Having graduated to selling from a bricks and mortar store in 1980, the first step was to lose the market stall side of the operation which up until 1996 was operating alongside the store’s retail arm. “Outdoor markets had served us well, but they were increasingly at odds with what we were selling in store,” says Hoggett. “We bought the remaining half of J&B from its former co-owners,

let the markets go and, aged 24, I found myself running the business with the help of my brother Paul. It was a breath of fresh air being able to concentrate on the store alone, but that was just the beginning.” Grounded by 30 years’ experience of successful family retail but inspired by the aspiration to move the business forward, J&B fine-tuned its brand mix to achieve its longed-for premium identity. “It took time and skill to premium-ise the business,” admits Hoggett. “Time and time again I’ve seen brands try to do it and make a mess of it because they try to move too quickly. We repositioned ourselves steadily, ensuring our customers stuck with us and making sure we didn’t rely too heavily on one brand.” Maintaining its links with bestselling labels Fred Perry, Lee and Levi’s, J&B carefully added new brands to its stable which mirrored its own “all-inclusive” philosophy. “Indie’s dream” Remus Uomo joined the portfolio, along with Base London, Farah, Ben Sherman, Raging Bull and Matinique, each selected to achieve its own point of difference within the store. “The buying is my favourite part of the job, along with the social aspect which goes with it,” says Hoggett. “We know our customers’ tastes, and we buy accordingly, though I also like to be progressive and have a few items that they wouldn’t expect. I think the decision by some brands to keep their representatives chained to their showrooms is short-sighted and counterproductive, because they miss out on seeing what their brand partners are doing and what the

competition is up to.” The delicate relationship between supplier and retailer is one that is not overlooked by the Hoggett brothers. On the contrary, the retailers feel that brand relationships will be more important than ever as the industry develops and progresses in seasons to come. “The next five years will shape the next 50,” predicts Darren Hoggett. “I have no doubt that some brands are moving towards a fully integrated set-up which would cut out the likes of us, but I always believe that there will be enough brands that are prepared to work with indies to grow their business organically, and our brand mix will continue to move towards those who actively consider their supply chain – wellsustained partnerships retain good business.” That’s not to say, however, that J&B is resistant to progress. The brand was ahead of its game when it ventured into e-commerce in 2000 with the launch of its transactional website. “We were too early when we first went online so it was a bit of a false start,” remembers Hoggett. “But 16 years on, the website is set to account for around a third of our turnover this year and growing the business online without compromising our Norwich store is a key focus for us. It is easy to get carried away with online and to lose focus on the store, but we will never allow this to happen; our personal service and knowledge is greatly appreciated by our customers, who often travel across several counties to reach us, and our store is very much a part of the future of clothing retail and a model of how things should be done.”

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | INTERVIEW | 18

INTERVIEW

CHRISTIAN BOURKE Influenced by managing director and designer Christian Bourke’s Irish roots, Stighlorgan’s bag and accessories designs have been winning the hearts and wallets of the cool Dalston crowd that shop in its SLG store. Tom Bottomley gets to the bottom of the brand’s appeal from the man himself. —

Tom Bottomley: When was the brand established and what did it initially make? Christian Bourke: The brand was established in 2010. It launched as an accessories brand with a focus on bags and maintains this as its speciality. — TB: Who is behind the brand? What are your backgrounds prior to starting Stighlorgan? CB: The brand is managed by two directors, myself and Yvonne Li. At the core of the brand is a combination of our shared experience. My own background was focused on British fashion. I moved from Dublin to London in 2000 and began working with brands in 2002. My first substantial role in bag design was with Paul Smith. I feel I was very lucky to have had the chance to work with Paul Smith at that point in my career, as there was an extreme focus on material quality which I have taken with me. After Paul Smith, I moved to Fred Perry to create and head up their first accessories line. I then continued with the British theme and became Ben Sherman’s head of accessories; I followed that by taking on the accessories collection at Tommy Hilfiger. Yvonne’s background is in graphic design, marketing, web design and brand strategy. She has over 15 years of experience with clients such as Diageo, LVMH and CNN. Her experience has been an integral part of creating a clear message for the Stighlorgan brand. — TB: Where does the brand have its roots? CB: Throughout all the time working with brands that explored the British identity, there were two thoughts constantly on my mind. The first was a realisation of just how important the British identity was to British brands. For instance, that eccentric Paul Smith gentleman, or that edgy, work hard/play hard Fred Perry lad. There was real power in the sentiments I could see inspiring

MANAGING DIRECTOR STIGHLORGAN

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people to adopt these brands. This was combined with my second thought which was, ‘where are all the Irish brands?’ I kept waiting for an Irish brand to emerge but nothing did. I became obsessed with the thought that it must be possible to embody modern Irish style in the kind of product I had learnt to create. This, combined with Yvonne’s love of sculpting a brand identity created the drive needed to create Stighlorgan. — TB: How did you go about creating the branding? CB: The Irish are born travellers, and bags are a vital part of travel. We also incorporated an island material, rope, into all our product and also in the logo. The logo is actually based on the Celtic clan belt, but made from rope. In terms of the name, I myself am from Stillorgan in Dublin. Stighlorgan is an adaptation of the Gaelic spelling. It incorporates the silent Gaelic ‘gh’, which encourages people to realise our Irish roots, or at least wonder where we are from. — TB: What does the brand specialise in and where is it produced? CB: We produce bags, leather goods and soft accessories. Our speciality is bags, in particular backpacks. We produce our bags in China, our leather goods in London and our knitted accessories in Ireland. Our factory in China is a trusted partner who I met almost 15 years ago while working at Paul Smith. Our leather workshop is in Dalston. It’s mostly hand saddlestitched product, which allows us to clash a very precise yet hand-finished process with modern wallet designs. Our soft accessories factory is located at the heart of Irish wool, Donegal. — TB: How are you developing the brand and the product categories? CB: I’ve always been aware of the subtle combination of American and European influence in Ireland, especially in Dublin, so we’ve incorporated that with modern Irish style. Brand development comes through our continuing innovation with product. We release a huge amount of new styles each season. S/s 17 is set to be a really exciting one as we have quite an ambitious selection of new silhouettes in the works, and some very exciting new fabric developments. All will be revealed at Jacket Required in July. — TB: How would you best describe your accessories offer in terms of styling and appeal? CB: Our focus is innovation. Since the brand

started, it has challenged the status quo of how a backpack is built, the fabrics used, the fastening details, the way it is worn and the technical functionality. — TB: When did you open the SLG Store in Dalston and why did you choose that location? CB: We opened the SLG store almost two years ago. I’ve lived in Dalston for 16 years now. It’s my neighbourhood. I know everyone there. Opening the shop there was a combination of knowing there was a market for Stighlorgan, and the other brands we could offer, but it was also about staying close to a neighbourhood I love and offering something I thought it needed. We have a leather workshop and office below the shop, and I spend a lot of time on site. — TB: How big is the shop and what’s the design and layout like? CB: The shop floor is approximately 800 square foot. It feels larger due to the double height ceiling and the triangle shape of the main shop floor. It’s a really bright space and we made sure to keep the shop fit light and clean. The shop fit was based on the New York Subway. Stighlorgan’s first studio was designed to look like a train carriage and the London shop was a modern evolution of the original. — TB: Why did you decide to bring other brands and products in to the retail offer? CB: We decided that including clothing from other brands would not only complement what we do, and make the space a more interesting place to be, but it also services the neighbourhood better. Dalston is one of the most lively and creative parts of London, but there still aren’t clothing shops that sell quality brands. We endeavoured to take care of that, and we currently stock product from brands such as Wood Wood, Elvine, Bee, Crowther/Plant, Harry Stedman, Garderobe, Percival and Deus ex Machina. The brand list continues to evolve. — TB: Who does the buying and what are you bringing in that’s new? CB: I coordinate this with the Dalston store manager, Mads Vestergaard. Mads has an eye for classic quality. I have an interest in the unusual. We almost always have completely different initial selections, but we’re always interested in what either of us proposes and we quickly agree on the buys. In terms of new items, we’re particularly excited about introducing Crowther/

Plant, a new brand from Margate that specialises in cotton garments ranging from very carefully tailored T-shirts to panelled jersey. Their other specialty is in-house indigo dying. You have to be fascinated by the process to follow through with the work required to achieve the correct results with indigo dying. — TB: How do you differentiate yourselves in the market from, say, Sandqvist and Herschel? CB: We launched pretty much the same year as Herschel. At that time Sandqvist had already been going for four years or so, but aside from that the market was waiting for some new stars to step into the limelight. There was very little in the way of mid-level pricing. The most interesting foreign brands only really appeared in department stores, since import charges would push up their prices. Alongside this, there were very few truly great backpack brands that were not outdoor/adventure brands. It was clear the market needed more. We’ve steered clear of all the other contemporary bag brands, not wanting to invade their space, and instead we’ve created our own aesthetic and appeal. — TB: Have you seen an upsurge in interest in men’s accessories in general? CB: Definitely. In some ways it’s down to the fact that we’re all carrying computers and tablets around with us. In another sense, I think it’s down to society being a little more free with what is considered acceptable to wear. Big decadedefining looks are being replaced with a focus on individual brand identity and how these are combined. The footwear and trainer market is a great example of this. There have never been so many trainer brands as there are now and I think this is because there is an increasing demand for unique items rather than on-trend items. — TB: So are men buying significantly more? CB: I’d say bags are following closely on the heels of the trainer market. You wouldn’t wear the same trainers every day for a year, and men have realised increasingly over the last decade that the same applies to bags. It’s exciting for brands like us because we’re finding men are not just buying one of our bags. We regularly see returning customers online, and at our London store, who will be buy up four different Stighlorgan backpack models. They’re selecting a bag brand they identify with, and then they’re matching different designs and colours to their wardrobe.

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P R O D U C T

SUBMERGED IN STYLE For a/w 16 British label Realm & Empire presents Submerged, its latest collection inspired by the print and cold store garment archive of the Imperial War Museum. The brand’s unique partnership with the museum ensures that every garment has authentic detailing and real British heritage woven through it. Taking its cue from the former British Commando Frogman Force, inspiration is drawn from hand-cut stencils, official stamps and faded ink forms associated with British sea power during that period, as well as traditional naval apparel itself. Highlights include a premium R&E wool mix duffle, a ‘frogman’ style hooded jacket and chunky, British-made commando roll necks. The functionality of original navy uniforms is brought up to date through rich indigo dyes and rusty hues, and with durable fabrics, oversized pockets, patched elbows and extra thick linings. Every garment, meanwhile, features a vintage shuttle-loom back neck label together with Realm & Empire’s unique ID label, which gives each piece its own individual number. — >>>

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RADAR Spotlighting style FLOWER POWER The s/s 16 collection from Rose London features a range of T-shirts, vests, sweats, shorts and jackets with the brand’s rose symbol sewn onto garments. Items are available in a simple colour palette, though additional hues such as light green and blue add a summer vibe. Using high-quality hand-picked fabrics which are designed to add extra detailing to each piece, the brand lends its traditional handcrafted methods to the latest collection. However, items remain versatile and can typically can be worn from day to night. —

SAINT LUKE ESTABLISHED: 2013 HISTORY: Saint Luke was created during a sailing trip around the British Virgin Islands in the Caribbean after brand founder Tessa Holladay grew tired of dull, complicated and flimsy bags. SIGNATURE STYLE: Eye-catching bags that typically carry bright colours and vibrant prints, and are designed to reflect the holiday spirit. Unisex brand Saint Luke was inspired by a love of travel, culture and people. As an alternative to insubstantial bags, Holladay decided to create a robust product with simplified design. Colourful and unique, the bags capture the spirit of travelling, adventures and the people you meet along the way. Bold, contrasting colours are used on the outer fabric and carry straps, while standout prints such as a pineapple motif can be found on the lining. Design is kept simple, with holdall bags split into three sizes. Since being commissioned to provide the gift bags at the Brit Awards earlier this year, the brand has gained a high-profile celebrity following, including Alexa Chung and Nick Grimshaw. Each collection represents a different trip, and attempts to capture the energy and landscape of an area. The latest line is heavily influenced by a recent visit to Bahia in Brazil. Expect to see fresh prints featuring tropical animals, palm trees and luscious jungle scenery, and plenty of new colour combinations that reflect the rainbow coloured fishing villages that are prominent around the region. Wholesale prices average £55. —

FUNCTIONING FASHION The s/s 16 collection for DML Jeans is focused around the idea of the fashion staple. Aiming its range of jeans at the style-conscious everyday man, the brand offers a range of go-to jeans. With an extensive collection and range of style options, the ethos of the latest line is to leave customers confident that they are on-trend. Styles offer finer detailing for fashion status while also boasting all-day comfort and flexibility. —

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PRODUCT NEWS CHEMICAL REACTION Luxury label Brandenstein typically builds on tailoring techniques using materials such as virgin wool, waxed cotton and rubberised cotton in its collections. Taking a scientific approach to its design process, the Spanish brand presents pieces which are both functional and stylish in its Inceptions collection for s/s 16. The line is an accumulation of timeless classics with a tailored approach and features staple fashion pieces such as the blazer, shirt, T-shirt, jeans and bomber jacket. Designs are simplified and colours and patterns are toned down. —

WOODCUTTER The a/w 16 line for Portuguese Flannel, titled Wooden Journey, is inspired by craftsmanship and the idea of life as a story. Nostalgic fabrics such as brushed cotton and checked lumberjack flannel have been revisited, alongside geometric prints and eccentric polka dots. The collection consists of a number of flannel shirts including a new ‘shacket’, which has been developed to form a lightweight overshirt called the Pinheiro. The ‘shacket’ is available in four vintage-inspired colours: navy, bordeaux, cream and grey. Ties complement the collection and are produced from the same shirt fabric, replicating prints. —

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STYLE HIGHLIGHT

OLIVER SPENCER British designer Oliver Spencer is renowned for creating timeless wardrobe classics, and his accessories offer is no different with his tan leather weekend bag. The new season takes cues from the pioneering and maverick drummer Ginger Baker and his career making music, from London to Africa. —

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RADAR Spotlighting style

WINNING STREAK

NON CONFORMIST ESTABLISHED: 2015 HISTORY: Initial design ideas came from inspiring slogans and placards that have been present at uprisings across the globe; the brand continues to use this as inspiration. SIGNATURE STYLE: Classic embroidery and new badging/printing techniques. Born from the idea of social movements and uprisings, London-based Non Conformist uses graphics to portray a message of power, corruption and lies. The initial idea was to create a brand that took design inspiration from social situations of recent years, providing a voice for many individuals with an inability to express themselves or their beliefs. With no specific target customer, the label uses political uprisings and social injustices as inspiration to create collections that resonate with people from all age groups and genres. The s/s 16 collection features a balance of classic streetwear staples and contemporary pieces mixed in with prints, badging and embroidery to complete the finer details. For the next season, Non Conformist has gone back to its roots with a collection inspired by UK council estates. Currently available at 35 retailers across Italy, France, Japan, Hong Kong, USA, Australia, Singapore, Germany and Thailand, the brand is also available at Aberdeen retailer Hanon and Dundee store Manifesto. —

Premium British menswear brand Win or Lose is driving forward with UK expansion, following its success in the US market. Currently stocked on House of Fraser’s online retail arm, the brand has strong links with rugby, cricket and golf and offers a comprehensive collection of cotton socks, scarves, polos, T-shirts, knitwear and accessories. Having appointed a new sales team for the a/w 16 season, the brand is looking to enter a select number of retailers nationwide over the next 12 months. Wholesale prices range from £3 to £65. —

NEWS STEP FORWARD The a/w 16 collection from ETQ presents 10 different minimalistic designs and 75 styles. The footwear collection, designed in Amsterdam and handmade in Portugal, introduces two new silhouettes, the Low 4 and Low 5. Styles take on a luxury finish using a rubberised leather, full grain Napa leather, a full calfskin lining and thick rubber cup soles to finish. With ribbed panels, denim and pauperised leather effects, the collection focuses on different materials and textures, all while embracing warm earth tones. —

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PITTI UOMO 90 FORTEZZA DA BASSO, FLORENCE – 14-17 JUNE 2016

The 90th edition of premium menswear show Pitti Uomo is set to be its most exciting and thought-provoking yet, bringing together the masters of menswear, from designer Raf Simons to the work of Karl Lagerfeld. —

The international event for men’s fashion returns to the grounds of Florence’s Fortezza da Basso this June, with a number of specially created projects designed to highlight the excellence found among both internationally renowned designers and new creative talents. Supported by the Italian Trade Agency and MISE (Ministry of Economic Development) for the second year running, the show welcomes an expansion of hospitality activities, advertising and special events – all under the exhibition’s seasonal theme, Pitti Lucky Numbers. Curated and designed by Oliviero Baldini, the show will explore the aesthetic, graphic and symbolic qualities of numbers in fashion and beyond. For its 90th edition, Pitti Uomo is set to present Florence Calling: Raf Simons, an event celebrating one of the greatest innovators in contemporary fashion and his return to Florence. “Florence holds a special place in my heart as, over the years, I have regularly come back to show my work or to collaborate on ventures that closely mirrored my thoughts about it,” says Simons. “I am thrilled to be there again this season to present my s/s 17 collection as well as a special project we are developing especially for Pitti.” Another internationally renowned talent to be noted this season is Karl Lagerfeld, with a photography exhibition curated by Eric Pfunder and Gerhard Steidl opening on 14 June at the Plazzo Pitti, Florence. Karl Lagerfeld: Visions of Fashion will cover Lagerfeld’s photographic career, showcasing some never before shown images. The exhibition brings together a collection of more than 200 photos created using a variety of techniques including daguerreotypes, platinum prints, Polaroid transfers, resinotypes, screen prints and digital prints. Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy, meanwhile, will be Pitti Uomo’s Menswear Guest Designer of the season, presenting a combined aesthetic of post-Soviet youth culture in Russia, with elegant notes of sportswear and artistic concepts that come from photography and film. Rubchinskiy will be showcasing his s/s 17 collection, together with a previously unseen photography project. This season’s Designer Project, meanwhile, is VISVIM, a Japanese label founded by Hiroki Nakamura. With an eclectic approach to design, the signature VISVIM ethos is Americaninspired workwear refreshed by high tech design. Finally, the s/s 17 season sees Pitti Immagine look to the rediscovery of crafts as one of the fundamental drivers of fashion in its project, MAKE. Located in the Sala Alfa, on the lower level of the Main Pavilion, the area will showcase a new generation of artisans from all over the world, who will present products, often in limited edition quantities. www.pittimmagine.com

GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY

VISVIM

RITRATTO RAF SIMONS BY WILLY VANDERPERRE

PITTI TUTORSHIP The start of 2016 saw the official launch of PITTI TUTORSHIP, an initiative which sees Pitti Immagine invest in the talents of contemporary fashion designers at the beginning of their career. The Tutorship Division Team, headed up by Riccardo Vannetti, will primarily deal with brand development: sourcing partners for production; representation and distribution; support for collection concept; consulting on commercial and promotional strategies and also on image and communication. The tutorship will also cover professional aspects of the designers’ careers, including style consultancy, sourcing and quality collaborations with established companies and brands. “The promotion and enhancement of new designers and fashion brands has for several years now proven to be a must for any big international fashion event, a fundamental competitive level,” says Gaetano Marzotto, president of Pitti Immagine. “In terms of Pitti Uomo, consolidating our relationship with the new generations and working more in depth and with a view to the medium-long term means enriching the role of this event as an international male lifestyle platform, with special reference to experimental fashion.” PITTI TUTORSHIP will initially concentrate on the community of young fashion designers found at projects like Who’s on Next Uomo, Pitti Italics, Fashion Buzz and Guest Nation, and around the show itself in areas dedicated to debuts and emerging brands.

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THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY £11.50 01572 824385

CAMEL ACTIVE €71.50 0161 234 0999

VOLCOM £20.45 0845 486 5266

REEF £70 WWW.REEF.COM

MI-PAC £16.70 020 7739 7620

PITTARDS £58 01935 474321

CRAGHOPPERS £40 0161 866 0500

JET SETTER Travel essentials are a key addition to any store’s point of sale at this time of year: from watch rolls to leather luggage tags, travelling for both work and pleasure has never looked so stylish. —

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

BARBOUR £12 0191 496 9538

ALFIE DOUGLAS PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7118 6448

OTIS BATTERBEE £30 020 7431 8563

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 30

DUKE CLOTHING £1 0115 977 0009

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA £75 01632 777253

CROWN JEWELS Although designers on the runway have been embracing jewellery for many seasons now, this trend has only just started to translate down to the everyday man, from the classic time piece through to more unusual plaited leather bracelets and thumb rings. —

TATEOSSIAN PRICE ON REQUEST 0800 021 1008

NIXON £95 0033 5584 35917

KOMONO £18.61 0032 3337 5023

KIRK ORIGINALS £89 020 7248 1238

CHEAP MONDAY £10 0344 8448505 NORTHSKULL £62 020 3744 2859

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

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FASHION FORWARD MWB highlights eight of the collections to consider at the forthcoming London Collections Men, taking place from 10-13 June 2016. —

CSB LONDON

CONSISTENCE

Launched by British designer Christopher Brogden in 2014, CSB London will make its return to London Collections Men with its fourth collection. Fusing sportswear and tailoring with technology such as ultrasound and thermo-welding techniques, Brogden draws his inspiration from artist Mark Rothko for s/s 17. With a military sport aesthetic, the collection features taped seam shirts, field jackets with dropped shoulders and leather detailing, oversized shorts with engineered stripes, lightweight down-filled blazers and bombers, alongside bonded T-shirts and printed sweats. www.csblondon.com

Contemporary menswear label Consistence was founded in London in 2014, with a brand DNA comprising minimalistic, modern and sophisticated design. Created for men aged 24-39, with an appreciation for simplistic, clean lines and crisp tailoring, the brand strikes a balance between casual and formal, blending classic styles with contemporary accents. Designers Tien and Fang, who established the label, both have extensive knowledge of the fashion industry, having studied at London College of Fashion and worked with Dolce & Gabbana respectively. The s/s 17 season will see the design duo focus on volume and playing with raw edge finishes, while still remaining true to its signature look. www.consistence.uk

ORANGE CULTURE

ETTINGER

Contemporary Nigerian menswear designer Adebayo Oke-lawal established Orange Culture in 2011, working with traditional tailoring techniques and influenced by the culture of his surroundings. Describing his label as “a movement rather than just a clothing line”, frequently used fabrics include linen, cotton, denim, silk and leather as well as bespoke crochet pieces created in collaboration with Ed Goth. With nominations for the LVMH Prize and an invitation by GQ Italia to showcase at Pitti Uomo, the androgynous brand is certainly one to watch. www.instagram.com/orangecultureng

For its debut show, accessory label Ettinger will be introducing its classic Bridle Hide and Sterling collections, together with its innovative TT collection. With over 80 years’ expertise in British luxury leather goods, the brand has been a Royal Warrant holder to HRH The Prince of Wales for 20 years. Still run as a family business, Ettinger’s designs are timeless with a confident use of colour, resulting in a series of contemporary classics. Buyers can expect to find everything from wallets, travel accessories and bags, to stud boxes, folders and portfolios. www.ettinger.co.uk

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INSTRMNT Based in Glasgow, Instrmnt was founded in 2014 by design duo Pete Sunderland and Ross Baynham. Their focus lies in creating “considered, user-led products for everyday use” – launching with the Instrmnt 01, a minimalist steel watch that takes inspiration from industrial design of the mid-20th century. The layout of Instrmnt 01 – unassembled with tools provided for the customer to build their own watch – has become an iconic part of the brand, alongside the use of Swiss quartz movement, a German-made leather strap and recyclable packaging manufactured in the UK. www.instrmnt.co.uk

GLADSTONE LONDON This season, Gladstone London continues to establish itself as a premium English accessory label, marrying contemporary urban aesthetics with functionality and the use of iconic styles and craftsmanship from the past. The a/w 16 season saw the introduction of three new hero silhouettes – the G9 Gym Bag, the G36 Duffle Bag and the G12 Messenger Tote. Made in Italy using calfskin leather, all the bags feature the Gladstone London iconic pewter hand-cut diamond lock. www.gladstonelondon.com

HARRY STEDMAN Launching in 2011, Harry Stedman was founded by the son of Harry, Phil Stedman, with the aim of creating clothing that is built to last, and to encourage people to be less wasteful and shop intelligently. The new season features influences drawn from the beat generation of Kerouac and Ginsberg, with durable jersey pieces and relaxed 50s silhouettes. The brand’s signature Drizzle jacket, which is a more robust take on a blouson will be carried through again in new colour ways and finishes. www.harrystedman.com

TAYLOR MORRIS Eyewear specialist Taylor Morris makes its debut at London Collections Men this season, looking to expand on its success since launching in 2013. With stockists in Dubai, Mexico, Kuwait, Hong Kong, Australia and the US, the brand has already developed a cult celebrity following, with the likes of Cara Delevingne, Joan Smalls, Suki Waterhouse, Harry Styles and David Gandy all spotted wearing it. The new season brings the launch of The Explorer Collection, utilising metallic lenses and subtle brushed metalwork. www.taylormorriseyewear.com

www.douglasmenswear.com

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DOUGLAS & GRAHAME’S DOUBLE BRAND ASSAULT 2016 is seeing a fresh injection into Douglas & Grahame’s two most successful brands – Remus Uomo on the more fashion-led tailoring side, and Douglas on the premium classic front. It’s also Remus Uomo’s 25th anniversary year, and there’s plenty going on to raise both brands’ profiles, as Tom Bottomley discovers from UK sales director Anton Jenkins. —

There’s a new confidence at Douglas & Grahame’s HQ, as its two main brands, Remus Uomo and Douglas, grow momentum in the menswear formalwear market, the first targeting the younger tailoring end and the latter for the more distinguished male. It’s befitting that, as a company established in Belfast back in 1924, Douglas & Grahame is now a third-generation family business. Northern Ireland has a long association with the textiles, fabrics and drapery trades, in which Douglas & Grahame has played a major role throughout its 92 years of existence. Charles Douglas and Hugh Grahame originally formed the company in the 1920s as a wholesale drapery business selling various textiles, including suiting fabrics to independent tailors, drapers and hosiery retailers throughout Northern Ireland. After joining the business in 1945, it was Dixie Finlay who launched Wellington, the first ‘brand’ from the Douglas & Grahame company, in 1946. It offered quality traditional Irish worsted suits ‘off the peg’. Finlay took over the company in 1965 when Charles Douglas passed away, later bringing in his sons Richard and Donald. Richard, who led the company until recently, still acts as a consultant to the business, which is now directed by Donald. Donald’s son, Adam, is also now a company board member. The head office is currently in Carrickfergus, a suburb of Belfast. Anton Jenkins runs the UK division as the sales director, with offices in Shenstone near Lichfield. “We’ve got several brands in our portfolio,” says Jenkins. “But two of them are celebrating milestones this year so it’s quite an important one for us. Our business is based on quality, service and integrity as well as staff and

customer loyalty. In fact, in Shenstone alone we have six staff who have worked for us for a combined total of 147 years.” As such, Douglas & Grahame has a very well established retail base in the UK and Ireland. Remus Uomo’s key accounts include Psyche in Middlesbrough, Fenwick Brent Cross, Ted Williams in Sutton Coldfield and Mr Jones in Swansea. With Douglas, Wellington and the Daniel Grahame brands, the company also supplies the likes of Clarksons of York, Warwicks in Wellingborough and Squires in Shaftesbury, as well as Fenwick Brent Cross again. The Moda show at Birmingham’s NEC has been important to Douglas & Grahame since its inception, and this time around (7-9 August) Jenkins and his team will be there with Douglas and the other more classic brands. They are also looking at overseas shows, revving up the company’s export strategy, with Pitti in Florence and Panorama in Berlin on the radar. The company has strengthened its team in recent months, with a new marketing manager and fresh senior staff additions to the design team. “There’s also a new director that’s come in the business, Andrew Lowden, the former managing director of Glenaden Shirts and 1 Like No Other. He’s bringing a wealth of experience,” reveals Jenkins. With Remus Uomo standalone shops in Belfast and Glasgow already, there are plans afoot for more stores, though costs and the right locations are paramount. What Jenkins describes as “a full digital overhaul” is also on the cards for this year, including the relaunching of both the Remus Uomo and Douglas websites, as well as a new and innovative extranet service for retailers.

“Remus Uomo and Douglas are certainly the company’s two key brands,” says Jenkins. “Remus is very much our on-trend brand. It’s all about sharp lines, slim-fit looks and Italian tailoring influences.” More above the line advertising, including in GQ and Esquire, is planned to help to raise the brand’s profile in this its 25th year. “Remus is actually performing really strongly at the moment, so we’re bigging it up as much as we can,” comments Jenkins. A massive collection and a highly efficient stock service are also helping to fuel the growing success of the brand. On the classic brands side, Douglas is the main one, with the highest price points in the Douglas & Grahame stable (suits retailing at up to £350, while Remus suits go up to £300). Jenkins describes it as more “middle-aged styling”, though they have been adding younger design elements recently, even bringing in a slimmer fitting suit to keep it fresh. Another key brand on the classic side is Wellington, which is 70 years old this year. “That’s the other milestone,” comments Jenkins. “Wellington is more for our ‘mature’ market. “It’s not sexy. It’s more classic styling, with easier fits. But it’s very popular, still going strong to this day, with classic suits, coats and blazers at the core.” Daniel Grahame is the third of the company’s classic brands, and is what Jenkins describes as more mainstream and middle market, with lower price points. It seems Douglas & Grahame has the formalwear market well and truly covered, with Remus Uomo and Douglas leading the drive towards the 2020s. It’s another world from the one in which Charles Douglas and Hugh Grahame started out, but sharp suits in fine cloths are still the order of the day.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 36 N1SQ £13.33 0161 831 3707

LIBERTINE LIBERTINE

FARAH £24 020 7580 5838 BELLFIELD £10 0161 230 7312

NOBIS £113 07890 919928

IN-SEASON TRENDS

AT YOUR LEISURE The combination of sportswear and leisurewear has become big business. Big enough, in fact, to create its own category within fashion, aptly named athleisure. Brands have caught onto the trend with premium fabrics and luxe finishes, offering a smarter alternative to just wearing your gym kit to the shops. — ELVINE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7725 5700 MI-PAC £16.70 020 7739 7620

BJORN BORG £34 020 7637 1395

JIM RICKEY £44.44 07799 030009

FILA £21.45 01923 288550

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OLYMP VILLAIN £33.40 020 7636 7077

VOLCOM £20 0845 486 5266

SCOTCH & SODA £25 020 3137 3901 BELLFIELD £6 0161 230 7312

IN-SEASON TRENDS

TROPICAL PUNCH Showing no signs of slowing down, the trend for tropical floral prints returns once again this summer, from vintage wash finishes to oversized screen print motifs. Taking on a slightly more masculine edge this summer, colours remain dark and contrasting. —

PENFIELD £54 020 7720 5050

ETON PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7495 0028

SOULSTAR £7.99 01623 756644 SAMSØE & SAMSØE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3137 3901

DUCK AND COVER £12 0844 693 0401

>>>

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 38 REMUS UOMO £65.00 0333 456 7777

DIGEL

SIMON CARTER £90 020 8683 4475

SKOPES £19 0113 240 2211

SEIKO £129.00 01628 770988

IN-SEASON TRENDS

GREEN WITH ENVY KNIGHTSBRIDGE NECKWEAR £9.50 01765 640576

One of the dominant colours of the s/s 16 colour palette, green can be found across the board, from tailoring labels through to the more casual offer. A more unusual trend, however, is the use of green in accessories, including bags, watches, hats and ties, with military green being the shade of choice for many brands. —

BRIXTON £24 0117 980 3300

REALM & EMPIRE £30 01858 466729

CAMEL ACTIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7736 0230

MATT + NAT £75 07815 784316

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 39

FILA

NIXON £55 0808 234 7003

FILA £21.45 01923 288550

WEEKEND OFFENDER £12.96 01332 614755

IN-SEASON TRENDS

NINETIES KID

CLAE £34.09 01726 861742

The revival of brands once popular in the nineties taps into the pop-culture obsession with all things retro right now. Breathing new life into classics such as the printed backpack, vintage sports tee and oversized sweatshirt, influences range from new rave to the Britpop movement. MI-PAC £16.70 —

020 7739 7620

HUF £15 0117 980 3300

FRANKLIN & MARSHALL £12.50 020 7488 1380

MERC £20 020 8838 2444

NATIVE YOUTH £8.25 07970 524716

EPoS Ecommerce

One Size Fits All

Cater to your customers’ online shopping habits, whether it’s on a phone, tablet or PC, with Cybertill’s Responsive Website Solution

www.cybertill.co.uk enquiries@cybertill.co.uk 0800 030 4432

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | ADVICE | 41

TOP TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL E-TAILING MWB asks leading e-commerce experts to share their top tips and strategies to improve your customers’ shopping experience on a multi-channel platform. —

IMPROVING CUSTOMER ENGAGEMENT ONLINE

BUILDING LOYALTY FROM MARKETPLACES TO BECOME A SUPER SELLER

RALPH PERCIVAL

One of the biggest challenges for SME brands, especially independents who are running, launching or expanding their e-commerce site, is getting it right from the beginning, making sure their website delivers on ease of use, customer experience, imagery, quality and speed – no mean feat! It can be very intimidating for smaller brands to run an e-commerce channel, given the tough competition which exists from larger brands who enjoy increased brand recognition. Don’t forget though, the great thing about online is that everyone can compete; you just need to know how to differentiate your brand from the rest.

fingers, and are less brand loyal than ever before. To ensure that customers continue to return and thus drive long-term success, brands have to really work on customer engagement. One way of doing this is by offering visitors updated, engaging content (both graphic and written), and using social media to get the brand message out there. Here at Joules, we use a number of marketing channels to drive traffic to the website, including targeted email, search advertising and marketing affiliates, which we find works better than more general display advertising. We also keep a close eye on ROI, and continuously evolve our offering to respond to the market and consumer behaviour. Consistency Many retail businesses now operate through a number of channels: retail, e-commerce, licensing, catalogue… the list goes on! But a multichannel approach does potentially dilute the brand message and experience. Keep a close eye on consistency here, checking regularly that online is a true reflection of the retail experience and vice versa.

Mobile Customers are easily put off when they walk onto Look at the bigger picture a messy shop floor, and the same is true of Although I would stress not to let it take over unprofessional looking, hard-to-navigate from managing your website closely, websites. According to the IMRG Capgemini understanding the importance of how technology Quarterly Benchmark, in Q4 2015, smartphones can enable the growth of a successful e-commerce and tablets accounted for 51 per cent of UK site is important. The internet is changing all the online retail sales – a huge amount. This tells us time, and assessing the online market and that having a multi-platform site which accurately consumers’ changing habits, keeping abreast of reflects your brand and its values is vital. I can Google search developments and growth in personally attest to this: last year, we worked capability of social media as a traffic source, as hard on improving Joules’ well as understanding the impact e-commerce platform, www. “ It can be very of mobile and being creative are joules.com. By introducing new just some elements which can intimidating for smaller imagery, and an easier to help e-commerce businesses to brands to run an navigate site, we’ve made our indirectly mitigate unforeseen e-commerce channel, customers’ experiences quicker challenges and proactively plan given the tough and more enjoyable – the for growth. competition which exists feedback speaks for itself. — Ralph Percival is Director of from larger brands. but Engagement Direct at British-born the great thing about Customers now have the ability international lifestyle brand online is that everyone to purchase anything they want Joules. can compete; you just with just a few taps of their www.joules.com

need to know how to differentiate your brand from the rest.”

IAN JINDAL

When Jeff Bezos set up Amazon in 1994, no one could have predicted how it would not only usher in the era of e-commerce, but also how it would create the whole marketplace economy that in many ways drives retail today. Marketplaces have revolutionised e-commerce in two ways. Firstly, they have levelled the playing field and allowed all manner of SME retailers and niche offerings – Mom and Pop artisan craft brands, right through to eclectic retro clothes sellers – to play in e-commerce. Secondly, they have given all retailers the chance to grow and develop their stock portfolio in an almost limitless way. From a consumer point of view, marketplaces have also delivered unparalleled choice, competitive pricing and the ability to pretty much buy anything at the touch of a single smartphone button from anywhere in the world. A successful marketplace must always be based on getting both these things lined up. First, the shopper has to have more product choice, highly competitive pricing and better service. Additionally, the sellers using the site must have a lucrative new sales channel where the operator has increased traffic, sales and profits. But, as a seller, marketplaces are your ‘frenemy’ – on the one hand they deliver vast amounts of eyeballs and potential shoppers to your door and help you sell stuff, but they also kill repeat business and loyalty as the customer sees the marketplace as the brand they have dealt with, not you. And you want them to fall in love with you. In this day and age you can’t afford not to use marketplaces, so how can you best use >>>

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them? Follow these six steps to help you on the road to becoming a super seller. 1. Take pride in your listings The most important thing is to take pride in how you appear on marketplaces. Above all, make it easy for buyers. The consumer feasts first with their eyes: make sure that you are awash with good images that really sell the product. 2. Be concise Make sure that your opening paragraph about the product is clear, to the point and not a load of waffle. By all means, list the products’ many features – and even tell the customer about your business – but leave that for later. You only have a tiny amount of time to get their attention, so use it wisely. 3. Spread your wings Don’t be shy; put yourself and your products on as many different marketplaces that seem appropriate. Marketplaces are designed to suck customers up and so to get in front of as many people as possible, you need to be everywhere. Tailor what you say and how you display to each marketplace’s nuances as you see fit. One size doesn’t necessarily fit all. 4. The tipping point Understand the triggers that get your customers to buy particular products and make sure that they are listed at the top. Also, make the most of encouraging reviews, recommendations, feedback and star ratings. 5. Build trust This will help the marketplace see you as a trusted brand and propel you towards the much coveted super seller status. It is a little publicised fact that marketplaces will preferentially push customers towards trusted sellers and super sellers in particular, so to get the most from using marketplaces you need to make sure that you are liked and loved by as many customers as possible. 6. Build loyalty from a marketplace The key to any retail business is repeat business, but marketplaces are designed to bring customers back to the marketplace, not you specifically. So how do you build loyal

“ Many smaller retailers are abandoning the idea of having their own websites, as they see them as an unnecessary expense when marketplaces are bringing all the traffic.”

customers from a marketplace? Well, it’s hard; however there are some things you can do. Great customer service, speedy delivery, great reviews and feedback help. But simple things such as putting a ‘X per cent off when you shop with us again’ voucher (ideally that drives them to your own site) in with the delivery can be an effective way of turning that customer who found you on a marketplace by accident into a regular customer and advocate for you as a brand. Many smaller retailers are abandoning the idea of having their own websites, as they see them as an unnecessary expense when marketplaces are bringing all the traffic – often stealing any traffic away from the retailer’s own site to boot. But this is a mistake. Ultimately, you need to build a brand and to do that you need your own identity. The key is to use marketplaces to sell your products, but through exemplary service based around price, delivery flexibility, returns and general all-round customer service you can drive them to start using your site – and the building of a beautiful relationship can commence. — Ian Jindal is an experienced multichannel retailer, Editor-in-Chief of Internet Retailing and board-level advisor.

MOBILE TECHNOLOGY – THE NEW LOOK FOR FASHION RETAILERS

RAJ PARMAR

Increasingly, mobile retail technology is enabling retailers, particularly those involved with fashion, to engage with their customers in different ways. With this in mind, choosing the right technology – tablets, kiosks and digital signage – is vital for retailers looking to outdo their online competitors’ offers. This means emulating elements of the online experience, such as stock availability, greater ease of ordering and payment, personalised recommendations, detailed information on products and alternative colours and styles. Avoiding past mistakes In the pursuit of providing this experience, it is crucial that retailers research their options before making a decision. Three years ago, as retailers first began deploying mobile technology into their stores, many jumped the gun by installing iPads and Android tablets. Most of these retailers soon found that these devices brought many of their own flaws in-store: they had a tendency to break, were vulnerable to theft while being charged and became a drain on resources.

The mobile revolution Despite past mistakes, retailers should not be deterred from embracing mobile technology. Multi-functional tablets specifically designed for the high street have since become readily available. These tablets are designed with an elegance that can match the aesthetics of even the most high-end fashion store, while also being durable and highly adaptable, utilising familiar operating systems such as Windows. Armed with these tablets, sales associates can provide customers with the same information they would find online, such as alternative colours and available sizes, as well as in-store promotions, without the need to abandon them on the shop floor to check for stock in a back room. Innovative retailers across the UK are also seeking ways to further increase customer interaction with additional in-store technology. For instance, PoS systems with swivelling, fully reversible tablet docking stations can be easily manipulated or detached to assist customers. If customers of a fashion chain, for example, have been using the brand’s app online, their purchasing history can be imported to the in-store tablet, enabling the assistant to quickly match what is suggested by the customer’s preferences. The full omni-channel experience Kiosks serve a similar function, enabling customers to complete transactions quickly with self-service technology. This technology also provides a robust omni-channel experience for shoppers by allowing them to come in-store to

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“ Through technology such as tablets, kiosks and highdefinition digital signage, retailers move much closer to the personalised experience delivered by online retailers, closing the gap between physical and online.”

browse and then add products they like to the digital shopping cart they first started online. They have the option to either pay in-store or continue browsing items at home. Rounding out the new in-store experience is digital signage, which can provide retailers with interactive content and a dynamic way for them to communicate their brand, new product information and offers to their customers. The same video content used online can be played instore using digital signage, which is highly customisable and allows the retailer complete control over content in multiple locations. The right combination In the right combination, these technologies allow fashion retailers to provide customers with a fresh and pleasurable experience that brings new opportunities for cross and up-selling. Retailers can take full advantage of their physical benefits, giving consumers multiple touch-points, fitting rooms and direct experience with the products they are interested in. Yet through technology such as tablets, kiosks and highdefinition digital signage, retailers move much closer to the personalised experience delivered by online retailers, closing the gap between physical and online. Coupled with data management and welltrained staff, retailers can provide customers with an experience that is infinitely more gratifying than clicking online and waiting for delivery. — Raj Parmar is marketing director for Box Technologies, www.boxtechnologies.com

WHY BEING SOCIAL MATTERS TO E-COMMERCE SUCCESS revenues are $5.6bn, of which more than three quarters are gained from mobile advertising. Facebook’s advertising power is a direct reflection of the data that the social network collects on a daily basis from its members, allowing advertisers to create targeted advertisements. In studying the behaviour of its users, Facebook realised that 46 per cent of them NENAD CETKOVIC logged into the site while they were shopping. With this in mind, Facebook lost no time in Womenswear retailers in the UK understand becoming more deeply involved in the world of the importance of having an e-commerce e-commerce by creating a ‘Buy’ button in 2014, strategy that works. Global e-commerce is and launching a new advertising format for expected to reach nearly $3 trillion by 2018 and retailers, Dynamic Product Ads, in 2015. British people are now the most frequent online Most recently, Facebook is integrating shoppers in Europe. But shopping, both online e-commerce into its ecosystem with Facebook and offline, is evolving to give customers a Canvas, allowing retailers to have the different kind of experience. The changing opportunity to offer users a new buying landscape of e-commerce is being driven, in experience, by telling customers their brand’s part, by an evolution in our relationship with story and also displaying items from their social media. So how can retailers best adapt to product catalogue. Facebook’s e-commerce the new emerging trends in social media and offering builds on two trends: m-commerce and the advancing functionality of Facebook to social commerce. It is becoming a mine of maximise e-commerce success? information for retailers wishing to build closer It can be easy to view social media as relationships with their customers, and reflects separate from other types of e-commerce and Facebook’s increasingly important role in marketing strategies. But 90 per cent of e-commerce. consumers say they trust peer recommendations. Canvas is an immersive advertising format, As social media continues to become a bigger where users can discover businesses and then part of everyday life and relationships, it browse their product catalogues in full screen. becomes more important to leverage it to By clicking on adverts, the user can interact succeed with e-commerce. with the retailer’s content: pictures, videos, text Integrating social media to allow visitors and/or links. On a mobile, Facebook Canvas and customers to log in to your site using their allows you to create a visually stunning social networking profiles, adding social sharing experience where users can zoom in on images, buttons in strategic places, encouraging swipe through image carousels and even tilt reviews, optimising social media posts, and their mobile device to view panoramic images. empowering user generated content showing The relationship between social media and real customers using their products are all e-commerce is often a complex one. But the important steps to take. But Facebook’s power of Facebook in particular, means that advancing functionality offers retailers new retailers can’t afford to be left behind, or miss different challenges and opportunities. out on the opportunities it provides for online With more than 1.6 billion sales. Many analysts still doubt monthly active users, Facebook that Facebook and other social is still the top social network in “ With the relationship platforms will prove to be major the world, and it dominates the between social media e-commerce players. But with social commerce sector with the relationship between social 64 per cent of global social and e-commerce media and e-commerce platform turnover. To monetise becoming becoming increasingly its platform early on, the social interlinked, and e-commerce increasingly network introduced advertising functions advancing all the time as a source of income, and it interlinked, and on social platforms, it’s has since become the focus of e-commerce functions becoming increasingly clear Facebook’s business model. that being social matters. To date, Facebook claims advancing all the — to have 3 million advertisers time on social Nenad Cetkovic is COO at and the latest advertising Lengow. www.lengow.com

platforms, it’s becoming increasingly clear that being social matters.”

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | PEOPLE | 44

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK CAMINO CARABASSA, 2, 08002 BARCELONA

SIMON SAYS There’s an excellent exhibition on currently at the Jewish Museum, the existence of which I’ve only just become aware of. The museum itself is a gem of good architecture, tucked away on a quiet side street a few minutes’ walk from the manic babble of Camden Town market. It’s small, but perfectly formed, and gives a fascinating history of British Jewry that made me feel ignorant and captivated at the same time. The exhibition is Moses, Mods and Mr Fish, and covers the enormous contribution that Jewish men and women have made to the garment and textile industry in this country. While the Victorian and pre-war periods were engaging, it was the extraordinary burst of creativity in the 1960s and early 1970s that really caught my attention. A small group of highly entrepreneurial and creative men reacted against the ubiquitous and unflattering de-mob suit of the post war years, and looked to Italy for the slim, sharp mod look. And that was just the start. Stores with names like I Was Lord Kitchener’s Valet, Take 6 and Mr Fish colonised a sleepy back cut-through called Carnaby Street. All this we know, but it is worth revisiting as it’s easy to overlook the excitement and total originality of this period. As the Sixties progressed, fashion became more and more daring, with psychedelic colours, frilled shirts and velvet britches. And that was for the men. One fact that really stuck in my head was that in a six-year period, John Stephen went from six stores to 140. And at one point, had 14 different shops on Carnaby Street simultaneously. One quote I read said, “People were making enough money to buy his and hers Lamborghinis.” Few of these visionary and important retailers stayed the course. Most sold at the peak, or just after, some staying in the menswear trade, and others, such as Irvine Sellar, forging new careers in property. Mr Sellar went from giving us flares, to giving us The Shard. It is unthinkable that menswear retailing could ever be this dynamic and explosive again. If a brand opens a second or third branch, it’s major news. A combination of saturated high streets, malls (which didn’t exist in the 1960s) and colossal rents conspire against us. But there’s another factor here. This was fashion. Genuine, fastmoving, radical fashion. What was the height of cool in the summer would be dead by autumn. It’s decades since we’ve had fashion like this; today, it’s about styling. A slightly higher rise in a trouser; a smaller notch on a lapel. And until clothing becomes fashionable and relevant again, it will continue to be tough to persuade jaded consumers to part with their hard earned cash. Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

The first Camino store was opened during 2011 in the El Born district, Barcelona. Since then the retailer has expanded to a total of four spaces located between Barcelona and Madrid. With three stores in Barcelona, the Camino Gótico is located in the city’s Gothic Quarter. Designed by the founder of Pichiglas Studio, Alfonso de la Fuente, each store tells a different story, though interiors are typically stripped back revealing wooden beams, piping and the structural elements of the building. In this space, the retailer also introduces projects and design concepts to its customers, which recently included local restaurant The Fish & Chips Shop. In-store brand selection is well considered, with the majority of labels originating from Barcelona. Brands such as Me & My Friend, Thinking Mu, Maians and Indhy reflect the handcrafted focus of the retailer. Brands are chosen to revive traditional Spanish craftsmanship, create innovative and sustainable products and to collaborate and create exclusive limited editions. —

PLAN B

FRASER TREWICK founder, Hawksmill Denim Co.

If I hadn’t followed a career path in the menswear business I’d have been a musician. — From an early age I was obsessed with music. I grew up in Newport, south Wales, which at one point in the 90s was dubbed ‘The new Seattle’ by New York rock critic Neil Strauss. Unemployment was rife, so there was an explosion of exciting bands from the town; every day of the week was taken up with playing gigs or watching someone else perform. Most of this activity took place in the ‘Legendary TJ’s’ night club, dubbed ‘legendary’ by John Peel, no less. The unexpected seemed to happen at TJ’s, such as Kurt Cobain apparently proposing to Courtney Love after Hole played there, along with many impromptu performances by bands such as The Stone Roses. Although my destiny was not in music, many of my friends went on to successful careers with bands such as Elastica, The 60ft Dolls and Feeder. —

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CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL MATHIEU SANTONI PRODUCT MANAGER, VOLCOM My most favourite piece in my wardrobe is a pair of jeans. I love denim, it’s a passion. I’m not wearing anything other than my Volcom jeans at the moment. They were raw denim when I got them, and I didn’t wash them for seven months. Now they are something like a second skin. To be fair, I’ve worked for Volcom since 1999, and last year was the first time that I found a pair of our jeans which really fit me well. I really do love them! — Before those jeans my favourites were skinny jeans from Nudie, called ‘Thin Finn’. Again I got them from raw. I like the idea of wearing the jeans in myself, as opposed to buying them already made to look worn. You get more of an authentic look. So I wear my jeans every day with my favourite pair of sneakers. I don’t have a special pair; I like sneakers in general. The ones I am wearing right now are the Nike tennis classic in white. They just go so well with my jeans. — To complete this outfit, I wear a plain white T-shirt and my heather grey crew fleece from Selected. I only really wear white tees, so you’d think my wardrobe is pretty boring when you look at the T-shirt section! There’s no special brands, but the most important thing is that it should be white and fits well. I do have three from Volcom, one with a chest pocket. Regarding my crew-neck fleece sweatshirt, we do have some decent fleeces in our line, but I found the perfect fit and colour from Selected. — I also like long-sleeved woven shirts, in either denim or chambray in particular. The last one I bought was from Carhartt – a nice fit, and a great chambray fabric. The final favourite piece is my Levi’s sherpa denim jacket, which again I first got in a raw denim. My girlfriend bought it for me for my birthday and I wear it almost every day. It’s starting to get some natural ‘whiskers’ everywhere, and I really like that look. —

TOP TWEETS Smart Turnout London @SmartTurnout Excuse us whilst we zip off early for the weekend... in our racing-green mini! Siobhán Norton @siobhan_norton1 Just got yelled at for walking on the right in an M&S STAIRWELL. Told “in England we walk on the left”. Is this true beyond Tube etiquette? Robin Tabari Love @RobinTabariLove Beautiful young people are accidents of nature, but beautiful old people are works of art. ELEANOR ROOSEVELT Warren Flanagan @warrenflanagan Friday you little sort! So good to see you again. What’s that? You’ve brought your cousin #BankHolidayWeekend with you? HELLO Sunspel @Sunspel Very happy to announce the opening of our new store in Berlin. If you’re in the area, pop by. Fashion Worked @fashionworked Having a blast on @hoxtonradio we’re now smelling Jonny Depp’s personal fragrance. He smells AMAZING Wil Benton @FatKidOnFire Old but gold: “Sacked Jeremy Clarkson To Write Drugs Review Column For The Sunday Times Called ‘Top Gear’” Design Museum @DesignMuseum The amount raised last night at #TimeforDesign auction was over a phenomenal £1M! Thanks for digging deep for design Dan Hasby-Oliver @lsofd It’s snowing again?!

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p VLOGGER JIM CHAPMAN, SNAPPED HERE WITH HIS DOG MARTHA, HAS BECOME ONE OF SIX MENSWEAR INFLUENCERS WHO HAVE TEAMED TOGETHER TO LAUNCH ORIGINAL PENGUIN’S NEW POLO. PLAYING ON THE LINE OF ‘MAN’S BEST FRIEND’, THE POLO IS DESIGNED TO BE A WARDROBE STAPLE FOR THE SUMMER MONTHS.

p MUSICIAN ALEX JAMES AT THE PRIVATE SCREENING OF THE DOCUMENTARY SLOW DOWN FAST FASHION, DIRECTED BY BEN AKERS, WHICH INVESTIGATES GLOBAL FASHION PRODUCTION AND LOOKS AT VARIOUS FIBRES, ASSESSING THEIR BENEFITS AND ISSUES RELATING TO BIODEGRADABILITY, LANDFILL AND SAFETY.

p PREMIUM FASHION WEBSITE FARFETCH HAS ANNOUNCED ITS PARTNERSHIP WITH THE BFC FASHION TRUST, FOUNDED BY THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL, WITH THE AIM OF INCREASING ITS EXPOSURE ON A MORE INTERNATIONAL LEVEL (PICTURED L-R KIM HERSOV, TANIA FARES, JOSE NEVES & CAROLINE RUSH).

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK MAY 2016 | 47

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

MOTH ALERT One of the mildest winters on record (albeit one of the coldest springs too) means that Britain is overrun with the insects who love to munch through our clothes. The warm conditions have allowed moths to flourish, multiply and binge on knitwear, suits and coats like there’s no tomorrow. Rentokil, the pest control company, has reported a 20 per cent increase in requests for moth treatments this year. And boy are they creaming it in, with what they charge to solve the problem (£1,587 to rid a three bedroom house of moths). A female adult moth can lay around 40 eggs over three weeks before snuffing it in your favourite wool coat pocket. Once hatched in your Italian suit or cashmere jumper, the larvae will use your fabrics as their breakfast, lunch and dinner. I once had to bin a beautiful cashmere cardigan, from Steven Alan in New York, after leaving it for a couple of months buried underneath other clothes on a chair in the bedroom. Re-discovering it after a tidy up, it had more holes than a Swiss cheese. It had to go. A Merc Crombie-style coat in the wardrobe was also not savable, and that had a suit cover over it too. Annoying to say the least. So these days I’m more prepared, with repellents planted in drawers and wardrobes and frequent checks for unwanted invaders. My best stuff I now put in the freezer for three days before bagging up in double plastic bags for storage until the autumn season is with us once again. Be prepared, as the scouts used to say, for they could be heading for a wardrobe near you, or the new season’s sample rail, for that matter.

RIDE A BIKE IN A SHIRT FOR THE OFFICE IN SUMMER? NO SWEAT As the days get longer, cycling to work seems an attractive prospect. However, the thought of arriving at a meeting ridden with sweat on a muggy summer’s day is enough to put most people off. After all, wet patches are not the best look to kick off the working day. Well, one brand, Hardvark – which has made shirts for the likes of Arnold Schwarzenegger, Daniel Craig, Pierce Brosnan and Brad Pitt no less – has spent the last two years developing a shirt made from a special woven merino wool fabric which warms, wicks, stretches, breathes, won’t wrinkle and resists odour. Sounds too good to be true, right? ‘The

p HAMILTON AND HARE’S NEW COLLABORATION WITH BOXER JOE CALZAGHE t HARDVARK UNVEILS ITS LATEST INNOVATION

best in performance, without sacrificing style’ is the brand’s simple yet effective strapline. The shirts have all the performance of a merino base layer but, unlike base layers, they look smart and can be worn in the office, making them perfect for commuters. With no need for ironing, merino’s performance apparently makes it the fabric of choice for technical cycling gear. So, for all you office workers who use pedal power to get to work, a change of shirt in your back pack is no longer required.

HAMILTON AND HARE BOXING CLEVER WITH JOE CALZAGHE COLLABORATION Luxury loungewear brand Hamilton And Hare has teamed up with former undefeated boxing world champion Joe Calzaghe on a limited edition sportswear range, simply called ‘The Calzaghe Collection’, that includes luxury sweats and workout tops inspired by the aesthetic of British boxing. Hamilton And Hare founder Olivia Francis says: “This is our first collaborative design project,

but we’re keen to make it an ongoing feature of our collections and work with Joe again. Because our design is based on original boxing uniforms, it is important to us that we collaborate with the right people, and who better than an undefeated world champion?” Who better indeed. Francis continues: “We chose Joe because I was so greatly inspired by his documentary Mr Calzaghe that was released last year – the film Rocky could literally be based on his life story.” Calzaghe is the longest reigning supermiddleweight world champion in history, having held the WBO title for over 10 years and making 21 successful defences before relinquishing the title to move up to light-heavyweight. As his super-middleweight and light-heavyweight reigns overlapped, he retired with the longest continual time as world champion of any active fighter. He retired in February 2009 with an undefeated record, and as a reigning world champion. In 2007, Calzaghe became BBC Sports Personality of the Year, gaining 28 per cent of the public vote. Now Francis is hoping the new line will be a knockout with the public as well.

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LAST ORDERS WITH... KARLMOND TANG Writer, stylist and photographer Karlmond Tang talks to MWB’s Victoria Jackson about developing his own signature blogging style, how he stays inspired and which brands are on his dream collaboration hit-list. — DOB: 27/03/90 Place of Birth: Watford, Hertfordshire Lives: Broxbourne, Hertfordshire Twitter: @Karlmond Website: www.karlmond.com —

Your blog, Mr. Boy, was established in 2013 – why did you originally launch it? Initially I wanted a platform to write freely and produce accompanying images, and starting a blog made sense for trial and error. My intentions haven’t changed – I still keep it quite personal – but I’ve learned a lot since then and I’m quite happy with the new direction. The Mr. Boy name, however, is taking a break as we speak. Is blogging a full-time occupation for you? No, but it is a place where I can bring all the things I do together. On the side I do freelance writing, social media, art direction through photography or styling – a little all over the place, as I enjoy all of it. I also work with the Jacket Required team during show season, created the social for Return of the Rudeboy, and produced the exhibition Punk in Translation, curated by Harris Elliott at the start of this year. How do you stay inspired? I watch a lot of films: the characters, the stories and the setting influence pretty much everything I do. I’ve got a brilliant group of close friends who are doing great and exciting things. I research as well; it’s important to apply context to whatever you do. What would you say your favourite thing is about your job? The learning process: finding new ways to create an image, whether it’s through styling, set or the words that accompany it. I get to approach everything with a fresh mindset which makes every outcome rewarding in a new way. Did you always want to work in fashion? No – I wanted to work in finance. I was doing an

internship at Ernst & Young before I went on to work for a body of UKTI in China. I miss it, but there’s many things that translate to this industry as well. What do you think is the most important element to the success of a blog? In-depth content? Photography? Personality – I have always seen blogs as a form of online journals. People want to relate to the person behind the words and images, not just stare at pushed product and read lengthy descriptions. I would say integrity, a mix of unique content and good photography AND words are all important. You’ve collaborated with some great brands – who’s currently on your wish list of labels to work with? I’m quite into some of the luxury houses. I love the team at Vivienne Westwood and hope we’ll be working together further even if it’s a little behind the scenes. I’m not a huge fan of the fast fashion industry, but I’ve always liked UNIQLO’s branding and their imagery. Which labels would we find hanging in your wardrobe? I like to collect. Today I’m wearing a Tommy Hilfiger denim jacket, but I’ve got a lot of London indie brands such as Flying Horse Indigo Goods or Natural Selection. I’ve got a few pieces from Comme des Garçons and Our Legacy which are pretty well worn. Sandqvist and Stighlorgan are great for bags. In terms of personal style, is there anyone or any era you draw inspiration from in particular? I think it goes back to my love for cinema – which

most of the time is timeless. After working with Harris Elliott and Dean Chalkley on Return of the Rudeboy, I have also grown to appreciate subcultures and their context. If you weren’t working in this industry, what would you be doing? I might have never left finance, but food or cinema would be great. There isn’t much of a difference between what you eat with your eyes and what you eat with your mouth. What’s been your career highlight so far? The production for Punk in Translation was a big task, especially the communication between here and Tokyo. On the opening night we had a completely packed room who came and never left. It’s always a pleasure working with Harris Elliott & Heather Turnbull. What’s next for Mr. Boy? I’ve redesigned the website and moved it to www.karlmond.com; it’s been a tough process but Desktop Desktop (the coders) and I have worked hard to bring the joys of print onto a digital platform. No time to take a breather though, as it’s onto the next.

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