A FRESH LOOK AT KIDS’ FASHION, FOOTWEAR AND LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS
www.cwb-online.co.uk June/July 2016 £9.95
The 100th ISSUE
BUBBLE LONDON Exclusive preview of the s/s 17 show MILLENNIALS: ARE YOU BEING SERVED? How kidswear brands, retailers and marketeers can best reach millennial parents TOP TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL ETAILING E-commerce experts share their strategies
Incorporating
SCHOOLWEAR BUYER:
See things differently...
LONDON
Register for your free ticket www.bubblelondon.com
katetparkerphotography.com
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CONTENTS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
CONT ENTS:
35
16
14
22 REGULARS
FEATURES
05: Comment
12: CWB Independent Retail Awards 2016 The launch of this year’s awards
06: News 08: NCWA 10: Open for business Legal and business advice plus industry opinion 14: Retail Therapy Store profiles and retail news 16: Brands to Watch Editor’s pick of brands 49: Laura loves The coolest products for kids 50: Style guide Baby and child-friendly toiletries 62: Talking point: Liz Pilgrim, editor of Maternity Buyer and curator of Bubble Bump
18: Twenty Questions Q&A with Kate Austin and Emily Ingram, co-owners of children’s boutique Spotty Herberts and winner of the Best New Store in the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2015 20: Margin and mark up factors Demystify the process of planning margins and mark ups 22: Millennials: Are you being served? How kidswear brands, retailers and marketeers can best reach millennial parents 26: At the source Manufacturing show Fashion SVP opens its doors this month 27: Top tips for successful etailing E-commerce experts share their strategies
30: Lelli Kelly: completing the look The new girls’ clothing collection inspired by, and under licence to, the Italian shoe brand 32: Exhibition calendar Round-up of this season’s trade fairs 35: Bubble London Exclusive preview of the s/s 17 show SCHOOLWEAR 55: News 56: Back to School prep Schoolwear retailers reflect on last year’s Back to School and discuss how it has shaped their approach for this year’s selling period
Cover: Milou & Pilou 0034 606 971 511 www.milouandpilou.com JUNE/JULY 2016 - 03
COM MENT: The first issue of CWB launched in July 1999: 17 years on and we’re publishing the 100th edition.
I’ve had the pleasure of writing for CWB magazine for 13 of its 17 years, and for the last eight, I’ve been its editor. For the sake of nostalgia, I had a look through the first-ever issue, reading the then-editor’s comment and mission statement: “CWB is the only trade magazine for your industry – a magazine about you and for you.” Back then, the title promised to build a name for itself in the industry, tackle sector-relevant topics, bring you the latest children’s fashion news and continue to grow from strength to strength. I like to think we are living up to those promises. We are still growing, most recently with the launch of the CWB Independent Retail Awards, which have provided a much needed platform to celebrate and promote independent childrenswear retail. Applications open this month via our website, www.cwb-online.co.uk, for the 2016 Awards – make sure you’re part of it. We’re also still tacking those sectorrelevant topics. This issue, our report on page 20, ‘Margin and mark up factors’, sees retail consultant, NCWA vice president and ex-Selfridges buyer Jackie Cook demystify the process of planning margins and mark ups for new retailers and brands. On page 22 we take a look at the millennial parent as a consumer – what they think and how they shop – and more specifically, how children’s retailers and brands can best target this audience. For those looking to polish up on their etailing, meanwhile, we have e-commerce experts’ tips for success on page 27, and ‘The EU referendum – what it means for your business’ is the hot topic tackled by Fox
Editor Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Contributors Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Designers Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales executive Michele Ali michele@ras-publishing.com Subscriptions data@ras-publishing.com Head of childrenswear Lindsay Hoyes lindsay@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics/printing Image Data Group Ltd 01482 652323
CWB is published 6 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 www.cwb-online.co.uk Copyright© 2016 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.
COMMENT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
William LLP’s Stephen Sidkin, on page 10. For s/s 17 fashion and buying inspiration this edition, head to page 35 for our exclusive preview of this month’s Bubble London, the UK’s leading kids’ trade fair. In addition to over 250 carefully selected fashion, accessories, gift and homeware brands - as well as maternity and nursery collections with the launch of Bubble Bump - the show has a unique programme of features and events lined up for visitors. In schoolwear, we take a look at the forthcoming Back to School (BTS) season through the eyes of retailers, asking them to reflect on last year’s BTS and how it has shaped their approach for this year’s selling period. As I sign off this issue, we are just days away from the s/s 17 trade fairs: I hope to see many of you over the course of the season. In the meantime, please don’t hesitate to get in touch with your news and views; we’re always happy to hear from you. Laura Turner Editor
CWB is a joint venture between RAS Publishing and the National Childrenswear Association.
A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication CWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include WWB and MWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group company.
JUNE/JULY 2016 - 05
NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
CWB NEWS: © ASH JAMES
NEW DATES FOR HARROGATE 2017
SLEEPY DOE LAUNCH
Dates for next year’s Harrogate International Nursery Fair are Tuesday 28 March to Thursday 30 March 2017, seeing the show open midweek for the very first time. “Times have changed and whilst the show historically always opened on a Sunday for independent retailers who generally closed for the day, Sunday is now a busy trading day,” says show organiser Adrian Sneyd. “The overall consensus from everyone participating in the show is that midweek opening works best. We also talked to the organisers of Toy Fair, who confirmed that a similar change in days boosted visitor numbers for their show.” —
Sleepy Doe is a new Bath-based childrenswear brand of luxurious yet fun sleepwear and bedding for ages 1-6 years. The inaugural collection includes matching children’s pyjama sets, bedding (cot sheets, reversible duvet covers and pillowcases) and limited edition matching ‘mumma’ pyjamas. All products are detailed with brand owner and designer Sophie Woodrow’s hand-drawn prints, which are applied without use of harmful dyes onto fabric ecologically sourced from British manufacturers. “I have always wanted to use my experience in fashion and print design to launch my own range,” says Woodrow, who has 10 years’ experience designing clothing for British heritage brands. —
A FOCUS ON FASHION FOR PLATYPUS Platypus Australia, the global UV swimwear brand for children aged 0-14 years, has launched its most varied collection to date for s/s 17. Inspired by the activewear trend, the new sun protective swimwear and beachwear offer includes new prints and key pieces such as cropped rash guards, capped sleeve one-pieces and flounce bikinis for girls and a T-shirt rash guard with a pocket for boys. “The 2017 collection is by far our most diverse,” says brand founder and designer, Karel Wheen. “We are thrilled to extend our offer with new pompom sundresses, tiered dress silhouettes and gorgeous rompers, all in matching prints and embroidery to be mixed and matched across the collections.” —
BE INSPIRED AT BUBBLE S/S 17
DISNEY BOUTIQUE COLLECTION Disney Boutique is a new Disney children’s fashion label created by Travis Designs. The party dress collection is styled around classic Disney princesses and fairies, incorporating a range of fabrics and finishes. British designed, each style has character details ranging from embroidery and printed ribbons through to silhouette prints; other highlights include concealed zips, fully lined bodices and skirts, rolled hems and bound ribbon edging. Styles include Belle, Jasmine, Snow White, Cinderella, Elsa, Sleeping Beauty and Tinkerbell. A faux fur ivory shrug with satin lining is also available to accompany the dresses. Pre-orders are now being taken for the debut collection, which will be available for delivery instore from October 2016. —
Kids’ trade show Bubble London returns to the Business Design Centre, Islington on 19-20 June to present over 250 new fashion, accessories, gift, homeware, maternity and nursery collections. This season’s event will showcase product from both established and emerging designers, with new show area Bubble Bump providing visitors with maternity and nursery labels. The spring/summer line-up features a host of key signings including Guess, Jessie and James, Lelli Kelly’s debut childrenswear collection, Haus of JR and footwear specialists Angulus and Camper for Kids. They will be joined by returning favourites such as Lilly + Sid, aden + anais, Rachel Riley, The Bonnie Mob and Kissy Kissy. Among those making their Bubble debut are interiors brands Pehr, Love Mae and Cam Cam Copenhagen and footwear specialists Plae UK and Pediped, and design label Noodoll. Bubble’s pop-up area, POP, will return with collections from small and boutique brands such Scrubbingtons, Nod, Poco Rosso and Miss Princess and Little Frog. The debut line-up for Bubble Bump will include Snoozebaby, Benbat, Lara + Ollie, Milla and Frugi. Other highlights include the return of the Look Who’s Talking seminar programme, The Rising Star competition, a new Bubble bookshop, child-friendly activities hosted by parenting blog My Baba and the launch of We’ve Got Chemistry, a new feature showcasing unique brand collaborations. —
BRITISH BUSINESS BETTER THAN EVER “British business is better than ever” was the definitive message at this year’s Meet the Manufacturer event organised by Make it British, the campaign for the return of UK manufacturing. Taking place on 25-26 May at London’s Truman Brewery, participants included the British Fashion Council, Harrods, Marks & Spencer and ASOS. “We’ve been delighted by the overwhelming support for this year’s event,” says Kate Hills, founder and CEO of Make it British. “Our workshops, which were new for this year, were phenomenally successful with around 900 people attending them over the two days.” A poll carried out by Meet the Manufacturer in the run-up to the event echoed these welcome signs of uplift in the British textiles and fashion industry, with 60 per cent of manufacturers confirming that “business is better than five years ago”. — JUNE/JULY 2016 - 06
NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
BRAND MACHINE GROUP APPOINTS MD
NEW DEVELOPMENTS FOR FRUGI Frugi’s s/s 17 collection sees a number of developments including new products and characters. For newborn to 4 years there are new knee length Lundy dungarees, a knitted jumper featuring a tractor or campervan design and the arrival of tunic and leggings sets. The kidswear range for 2-10 years sees new launches for girls with jersey harems and Chambray gathered dungarees. For boys, polo shirts have been added for the first time, available in a crocodile or shark print. Following the launch of Frugi swimwear for s/s 16, the brand has added new designs including rainbow fish, snorkelling hippos and pirate ships, all made in UPF 50+ chemical free material. New prints have also been added to the 100 per cent recycled Puddlebuster range of rainwear. —
The Brand Machine Group, owners of Flyers Group, Haddad Europe and Fans of the Future, has appointed Pippa Bazalgette as managing director. Bazalgette joins from Yours Clothing, where she operated as finance director during a period of rapid growth for the clothing retailer. Her experience also includes senior commercial and finance roles at Walt Disney Company and in high growth businesses. The appointment will see Bazalgette join the board and focus on the running of the business as it expands its distribution reach and operations while CEO Boo Jalil focuses on product, brand and partner relationships. The Brand Machine Group are the global licensee and distribution partners for Nike Young Athlete, Nike SB, Converse Hurley, Jordan, Lyle & Scott, Original Penguin, Ben Sherman, England 3 Lions, French Connection, Firetrap, Puffa, Blush and Sugar Pink across apparel and accessories for 0-15 years. —
NEW TEST FOR CHILDREN’S FOOTWEAR
THE BRIT PACK GROWS MEMBERSHIP
UK-based research and technology centre SATRA has added new foot form sizes to two of its laboratory-based tests so that children’s footwear can be objectively assessed for thermo-regularity. The SATRA ‘Advanced moisture management test’ and SATRA ‘Determination of whole shoe thermal insulation value and cold rating’ are both carried out using the SATRA Endofoot test machine. The machine uses a moulded foot form which incorporates electrical heating elements and water supply pipes that distribute ‘sweat’ (water) to the surface of the foot. The moulded foot form had previously been available for UK adult sizes 4, 7 and 9; the introduction of UK adult size 1 and child size 10 will ensure children’s footwear can now be tested for thermal and moisture management. —
The first half of 2016 has seen six new members join The Brit Pack, a group formed exclusively of brands that both design and manufacture products for the family arena within the UK. Brands are accepted to The Brit Pack on an invitation basis after undergoing due diligence to ensure the quality of goods on offer and that they are genuine products of the UK. The latest additions to the collective are Scooterpeg, The Little Shoemaker (pictured), Avery Row, Willow & Ivy, Panda & Ping and Willa & Bobbin. By working together as one voice, The Brit Pack helps raise awareness of the British-made products available. Its website, www.thebritpack. co.uk, acts as a hub showcasing British design and manufacturing, featuring over 120 products in six categories spanning fashion, home, mama, baby and toys & games. —
NEWS IN BRIEF
Michael Weedon, deputy CEO and communications director of the British Independent Retailers Association (bira), is stepping down at the end of this month. Weedon has delivered many benefits to the association over three decades, with multiple skills in management, publishing, IT, research, political lobbying and media coverage. The change is part of a realignment of the group, with a combined headquarters in Birmingham, a streamlined board and a simplified structure.
SQUIDGE AND PIP MAKES ITS MARK Squidge & Pip is a new, British-made brand of premium teething toys. Made from medical grade silicone, Squidge the Dog and Pip the Cat teethers help relieve babies’ gums, while tactile and textured features stimulate senses and help develop the muscles needed for speech and weaning development. “Designed without compromise and using only the finest materials, our British-made toys will help parents through those teething months while also providing a gift solution that will stand out from the crowd,” says brand founder and creative director Mary Lord. —
NEW LICENSE FOR CWF GROUP As of s/s 17, the Zadig & Voltaire children’s collection will be produced by CWF Group, with the signing of a global licensing agreement for the design, manufacture and distribution of the kids’ collection under the Zadig & Voltaire brand name. The children’s collections will be inspired by the adults’ ready-to-wear, mirroring its casual, rock ‘n’ roll style and centring on the iconic designs and material of the adult line, such as military shirts, cashmere and denim. The wardrobe for boys and girls will feature 90 styles, of which 80 per cent are for 4-16 year olds. —
Start-rite has launched a campaign to help keep children active. The footwear brand commissioned Childwise to conduct a survey which revealed a highly positive attitude to health, exercise and sport among 7-11 year olds, with 86 per cent believing it is important to do sport and exercise and 84 per cent saying they enjoy it. The 5-4-5 campaign will assist children who struggle to fit exercise into their busy lives. More information can be found at www.start-rite.co.uk/5-4-5.
Crocs is expanding its #FindYourFun global marketing campaign with the aim of reaching more consumers in 2016. Its focus remains the iconic Crocs clog, though new styles for kids and women also feature. The campaign will continue to target consumers in the UK, USA, China, Germany, Japan and Korea through a variety of channels. The campaign is part of a wider publicity drive for 2016, which includes brand integrations and partnerships. JUNE/JULY 2016 - 07
NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
NCWA NEWS: The latest news from the National Childrenswear Association EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT: There never seems to be any rhyme or reason to the pattern of queries that we receive in the NCWA office. Sometimes VAT and the zero rating thereof will be the flavour of the month; at other times it will be safety and the interpretation of the relevant Standard. Occasionally, one guesses that VAT Inspectors or Trading Standards Officers have become particularly active in a given area. At other times, there is no clue to help us, but whatever the reason, we are always glad to help with any query and, if we do not know the answer, to point members in the right direction. In the run-up to Bubble London, it is, of course, vital that all exhibitors have all the information they need on their products and know what they need to do in order to arrange delivery, especially to the export market. So, do make sure that the labelling on your samples is accurate and complete, that you know whether they would be zero-rated for VAT purposes and that the samples themselves comply with the Standards on Cords and Drawstrings and Mechanical Safety and, for nightwear, the UK legislation and the European Standard on Flammability. If you need more information on any of these, do contact the NCWA office. Are your order forms up to date and do they make it clear when and how an order is confirmed and what the payment terms are? If you are exporting, do your prices include freight charges? What about duties (if you are selling outside the EU) and are you protected against currency fluctuations? To be blunt, when was the last time you looked at your order forms and those terms and conditions that are probably printed on the back? It would be worth taking a quick look now. One thing which NCWA can certainly help you with is your page on the NCWA website. We do the work for you in updating your entry, so all you need to do is send us the changes you want made, including pictures of your latest ranges. Do not forget that visitors will be looking at the list of exhibitors before the show and checking up on those that they may be interested in visiting or those that they do not know. If you are an agent, make sure we know all the ranges that you carry. If you are a retailer, check that we have a photograph of the exterior and interior of your shop, as this will be of interest to suppliers, who will wish to get a better idea of your premises and the type of merchandise you currently carry. Finally, have a look at the videos on the NCWA website on how to exhibit and how to visit a trade show. They will serve as a useful checklist for you before Bubble London opens. NCWA will have its usual stand in the Gallery at Bubble London, so do take the opportunity to come and see us. If you are not a member, why not come along to find out more about the services we offer? In the meantime, we can be contacted at 3 Queen Square, London WC1N 3AR, tel: 020 7843 9488, email: info@ncwa.co.uk, or take a look at our website, www.ncwa.co.uk. Elizabeth P Fox
NCWA Council: Chairman: DAVID HULL Agent Vice Chairman: VIRGINIA ROSS Pollyanna Retailer Imm Past Chairman: SHARON BEARDSWORTH Emile et Rose Manufacturer Treasurer: DAVID BURGESS David Luke Ltd Manufacturer
Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX
www.FineYoungThings.com Online retailer Fine Young Things was established in 2015 by Eleni and Andy Hadjikahou. The husband and wife team have built a successful social media following, targeting established equestrian events, among others, as a route to building awareness. Stocking brand favourites such as Billieblush, Billybandit and Garcia Jeans Kids as well as labels which are relatively new to the UK such as Carrément Beau, D.O.T. and Sticky Fudge, the retailer operates as a go-to store for stylish, original and affordable designer clothing for children aged 0-12 years. —
DESIGNER KIDZ BOUTIQUE 35 High Street, Prescot, Merseyside Established in 2005 by owner Debbie Farrington, Designer Kidz Boutique stocks a wide range of pieces catering from newborn to 16 years. Presenting contemporary fashion brands such as Timberland, Tutto Piccolo, Coco, Kate Mack, Little Darlings and Billieblush, the shop also provides a range of formal communion and christening wear. The retailer maintains an active social media presence, selling through regularly updated Facebook, Twitter and Instagram accounts and its transactional website, as well as from the bricks and mortar store based in Merseyside. —
Make your voice heard
Council Members: MARK BARNETT Barnett Agencies Agent NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent DIANE SHAW Agent SARAH TAYLOR Agent MALCOLM TRAVIS Travis Designs Manufacturer RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer JILLIAN PETRIE Young Trend Retailer DAVID PARKER Baby Melanie Retailer President: KEN SCATES Marketing consultant Vice Presidents: LESLEY FALLON Retail consultant JACKIE COOK Retail consultant
FINE YOUNG THINGS
• Membership is open to everyone involved in the British childrenswear industry.
Read our blog and follow us on Twitter
• Associate membership, open to non-British organisations, is now available. • Membership costs from £95. JUNE/JULY 2016 - 08
NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
NEW COLLECTION FROM MORI
JOULES BOOSTS LOCAL CHARITY FUND
Leap Forward is the new collection from Mori, a luxury brand of baby essentials focused on ethical production and transparency, using natural materials that undergo minimal intervention. The collection comprises essentials made from 70 per cent bamboo and 30 per cent organic cotton, offering lightweight, thermoregulating properties. The feature product is a sleeping bag based on months of intensive research with parents in order to be both aesthetic and practical. Made from the same bamboo and cotton material as the clothing, the sleeping bag is available in 0.5 tog for summer and 2.5 tog for winter, and is adjustable for newborn to 2 years. It also has a seatbelt opening and a two-sided zip so that the baby can be taken out of a car or out of the sleeping bag without being disturbed. —
British lifestyle brand Joules has donated £8,000 to Yorkshire animal charity Nuzzlets, which provides animal therapy for children with lifelimiting illnesses, disabilities and special needs. A long-standing supporter of the charity, Joules handed over the donation at its recently opened Harrogate store. The funds were generated by the sale of two specific items of clothing from the brand’s Little Joule kidswear collection throughout 2015, sold across Joules’ 100 nationwide retail stores and via www.joules.com. For each product sold, five per cent went to Nuzzlets. Joules is now continuing its support for Nuzzlets by donating five per cent of sales from a children’s appliqué jersey top throughout s/s 16. —
MARK THE OCCASION WITH DEENA LONDON Deena London is a new British brand of luxury occasionwear for girls aged 3-16 years old. The label focuses on delicate and intricately embellished couture-style dresses produced in soft materials such as silk, organza and chiffon. A signature of Deena London is its use of embroidery and embellishment, with hand beading and components such as stones, beads and sequins all key. The collection comprises 16 pieces, offering tutu, A-shape and tulip dress styles. —
PRODUCT SAFETY AND COMPLIANCE SOURCE
BRAND EXPANSION FOR SMALLS Smalls, a label of everyday luxe merino basics for children aged 2-14 years, is expanding into baby and adult lines. Scheduled to launch for a/w 16, the Aroha baby range for 0-2 years includes a tank, bodysuit, 24-hour trouser and the ‘bleet’, a blanket-style swaddle sheet made in sheep’s wool. “Since we launched Smalls in 2014, we’ve been asked countless times when we are going to move into baby and adult ranges,” says Smalls cofounder Cat Pharo. “Expanding and creating baby and adult ranges was, therefore, a very natural progression for us, building on the success of the range for older children. Smalls stockists include Selfridges London and Manchester, Igloo, The Mini Edit and Cambridge Baby. —
NEWS IN BRIEF
Independent Quality Solutions Limited (IQS) is an independent consultancy specialising in product safety and compliance. It provides independent advice and expertise on non-food product areas such as clothing, toys, consumer products, jewellery and household textiles. IQS provides an Industry Bulletin, which keeps subscribers updated on key changes, issues and trends in the industry, offering an expert perspective that illustrates how the information communicated may affect the reader and their business. The IQS Industry Bulletin is published 10 times per year and can be accessed for an annual subscription fee of £180. The Bulletin will be emailed to subscribers in PDF format on or around the 23rd of every month, excluding July and December. To arrange a subscription, call 01462 713322. —
– Last month saw British girlswear brand Angel’s Face make its debut at Spanish trade fair FIMI in Madrid. To cater for the exhibition, which focuses on children’s ceremonial and occasionwear, the brand handpicked a range of pieces from its a/w 16/17 and s/s 17 collections to suit the special occasion market. Highlights included delicate lace, cotton candy colours and vintage influences.
PETIT BATEAU X KEITH HARING Petit Bateau has launched a capsule range of classic styles featuring the dynamic illustrations of New York artist Keith Haring. A selection of the late artist’s characters have been chosen to adorn the brand’s iconic jersey pieces, with simple lines and bright colours outlined in black bringing Haring’s upbeat designs to life. Among these characters are Radioman and animal friends such as ‘Cat Hat’ and a dog dreaming of a hotdog. Launched in Petit Bateau shops and online stores worldwide on 1 June, the capsule collection in rib jersey is available for babies, girls, boys, men and women and comprises bodysuits, briefs and panties, T-shirts, vests and nightgowns. —
– The Brand Machine Group, owners of Flyers Group and Haddad Europe, has recently made a number of key appointments. Hires have been made across sales, merchandising, supply chain and marketing to increase the business’s presence in key markets and optimise its service proposition across supply chain, merchandising and marketing, mirroring the company’s North American business.
– Frugi was recently recognised for two accolades in the Prima Baby Awards, with the childrenswear brand scooping Gold for the boys’ fashion category and Silver in the girls’ fashion category for its a/w 15 collection. This is the second year running that Frugi’s 100 per cent organic clothing has triumphed in the awards, impressing Prima Baby’s judging panel of experts and parents.
JUNE/JULY 2016 - 09
BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
Open for BUSINESS Bringing you straight-talking legal and business advice. DONALD BUSH Vice president of marketing at Kount, which offers an all-in-one risk management solution that detects and prevents e-commerce and credit card fraud
STEPHEN SIDKIN is a partner in Fox Williams LLP
THE EU REFERENDUM – WHAT IT MEANS FOR YOUR BUSINESS For UK fashion retailers and fashion brands, the decision to either remain in or leave the EU needs to be considered at two levels. Let’s start by looking at the position so far as retailers are concerned. Commercially it is possible that this decision will result in a drop in the foreign currency value of sterling. If so, those fashion businesses which will receive in late summer or early autumn invoices for a/w 16 stock delivered payable in US dollars or euros will have a larger sterling amount to pay. In contrast, if invoices are payable in sterling, it is possible that overseas suppliers will try and squeeze UK retailers to pay a post-contract premium to take account of the currency lost to the suppliers. A similar point arises if an overseas supplier has taken out credit insurance. It is possible that an insurer will try and increase the premium charged, resulting in a corresponding pressure being applied to the UK retailer. Whilst it is possible that a UK decision to Brexit will result in an overseas supplier refusing to supply a/w 16, such an action would suggest that the supplier decided not to have all orders for a/w 16 made up and is using the referendum decision as an excuse to allocate available stock to non-UK customers. What then of the legal position? Can overseas suppliers seek to take advantage of contracts made with UK retailers? The answer here is ‘possibly’. The starting point is: what is the governing law of the contract? If unspecified – as is often the case – the governing law will be determined by EU and international law. If English law is the governing law then the vote on 23 June is unlikely to make any difference so far as a/w 16 contracts are concerned. This is because: 1. It is unlikely that a Brexit vote will have been specified as an event of termination. 2. Whilst it could be claimed that such a decision had frustrated the purpose of the contract so making it impossible to perform the contract, the English courts
have consistently been unimpressed by an argument that a contract is frustrated because it is more expensive to fulfil. 3. For a supplier to claim that the vote amounted to the occurrence of an event of force majeure, it would be necessary either for it to be expressly stated to be so or for it somehow to come within a more usual force majeure event such as the act or decision of a government body. Unlikely, although not impossible. Irrespective of this, a Brexit vote will necessitate changes in our laws but these can only come about if and when the laws are made by Parliament or changed by decisions of the courts. Both will take many months, if not years, to come into effect. In broad terms, the position for UK fashion brands and their contracts with overseas buyers is broadly the reverse. But focusing on the vote on 23 June overlooks a more fundamental point. It is critical for fashion businesses to appreciate what is in the contracts which they make for their goods which are the lifeblood of their businesses. www.fashionlaw.co.uk www.foxwilliams.com
KEEPING LOYALTY SCHEMES SAFE FROM FRAUD It’s not just the big chain retailers who run loyalty schemes. In the fight to preserve local business and independent retailers, many local communities run their own schemes, encouraging people to shop locally and rewarding them for doing so. This drive is being supported by technology mirroring bigger loyalty schemes, so independents can offer points and rewards in a similar way to national ones such as Nectar. Yet this is not without a degree of risk because loyalty schemes are, increasingly, coming under the threat of fraud. In February 2015, Nectar reported that points had been stolen from members and were being spent on eBay and in Argos. It responded to this with a promise to increase security, but the hack demonstrated the scale of the growing problem and the ambition and tenacity of the fraudsters. The question then is how independents can guard against this sort of fraud. Loyalty fraud, by and large, takes the same form as card-not-present fraud, i.e. remote transactions. Retailers with an online presence should already have software and protocols in place to guard against card fraud. And the patterns that are visible in card fraud, such as unusual purchasing patterns, different delivery address from the billing address, different ISP address or device than usual and testing on small purchases before moving to larger ones, are all indicative of potential loyalty fraud, too. Independent and local loyalty schemes have the potential to support independents and they are deserving of support. But they will only be successful if they are safe and secure. Retailers have a critical role to play in ensuring this. This can best be done by treating loyalty fraud as seriously as card fraud. www.kount.com
JUNE/JULY 2016 - 10
BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
Three childrenswear retailers discuss social media interaction and how this translates into sales. — SAMANTHA BARCLAY director, online retailer Minimis
CAROLINE MANÉ owner of Bossy Boots & bossybootskidz.com
DONNA LIDDELL Owner, Jolly Tots, Falkirk, Stirlingshire
www.minimis.co.uk
How frequently do you see ‘likes’, ‘shares’ and ‘follows’ convert to actual customers and sales? We recently held a customer service survey across more than 2,000 respondents from which 44 per cent of our customers (versus 16 per cent in 2014) were found to be taking style advice and purposely browsing for their child’s clothing via social media, by following links online to purchase items that have caught their eye. Which is the best performing social media platform for your business and why? And the least productive? Instagram is certainly the most engaging platform for Minimis (@minimis.co.uk). The functionality and ease of browsing, liking and following seems to work well with our customer base: fashion-conscious parents who see their children’s wardrobes as an extension of their own. Google+ is less engaging, mainly due to a lack of our target market using this platform. Childrenswear bloggers have been identified as having the most influence over customers’ childrenswear purchases. Have you seen any evidence of this? Childrenswear bloggers can have an influence; however, this area is so saturated it can be hard to distinguish the really good, strong content-led blogs from the many ‘yummy mummy’ bloggers out there. Minimis has been featured on several kids’ fashion blogs, some of which have produced positive results for our brand. Do you feel social media best suits your customer demographic? The Minimis customer is a young at heart, fashion-conscious parent who follows all the latest celebrity fashion styling and catwalk trends, so social media is key for us to showcase our brand to this public.
Do customers use your social media platforms to make enquiries? Yes, they often leave comments on Facebook or Instagram. I’ve just started a blog and my first post had a good response, so people might make enquiries through there too. The fashion blog posts in particular should generate lots of interest and enquiries regarding products. How frequently do you see ‘likes’, ‘shares’ and ‘follows’ convert to actual customers and sales? It’s a very successful selling tool to use. Approximately 90 per cent of the people who leave comments turn into sales. Interaction is great for raising awareness and the profile of the business in general. For example, following local celebrities works well, as they tend to come into the store after you ‘like’ or ‘follow’ them. The majority of orders come through Facebook Messenger. Do you find the less formal tone of social media interaction helps you build relationships and loyalty with customers? You have to imagine that you’re talking to a customer in-store and maintain that tone with them: professional but chatty. The tone is important as it reflects who you are as a business. You also have to be attentive and maintain contact with online customers, as you would if they walked into the shop. There’s so much competition online that you have to keep on top of communication and posting in general. Have you seen any evidence that childrenswear bloggers have influence over customers’ purchases? I think people influence each other, though I haven’t seen evidence that if a blogger promotes something it makes a customer buy it. However, customers are generally pleased if an item they own ends up being featured on a page. I recently had requests for similar styles to a triangle shaped dress that was recently featured in Vogue Bambini – this type of publication has the power to affect buying.
Do customers use your social media platforms to make enquiries? Yes, enquiries are typically made through Facebook Messenger, though I still receive more interaction through the actual Facebook page. We were recently closed due to a flood from the flat above the shop, and the way I kept in touch with my customer base was through the Facebook page. I kept customers up to date with the progress and told them in advance when we were reopening. I had a lot of feedback during this time through Facebook. Any orders I had were postponed, though I could update the customer immediately through Facebook and notify them of when we had items back in stock again. Which is your best performing social media platform? I only use Facebook and Facebook Messenger. I find this is easy to manage and I can do it all – I can share pictures, reply and engage with customers and take orders. I am the only page manager, so I am in control of everything, which I find works well. I don’t have a web page, though this is something I’m looking at. It’s really important to keep this up to date. I have a regular session of managing the page – around two hours in the evening and when there’s a quiet period in-store. I have messages coming through at all hours, however. I try to reply to a message in the evening so that the customer has a reply there waiting first thing in the morning. How frequently do you see ‘likes’ convert to sales? In the last two years I would say there has been approximately 30-40 per cent increase in ordering through social media, though it’s hard to measure because we get a lot of referrals. A customer will mention in passing that they have been directed here by a post they’ve seen. The social media method suits a lot of childrenswear shops, and I find the less formal tone works well. It’s a way of notifying the customer of promotions, but not giving them the hard-sell approach.
JUNE/JULY 2016 - 11
CWB AWARDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
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CELEBRATING INDEPENDENT CHILDRENSWEAR RETAIL CWB Independent Retail Awards 2016 This year sees the launch of the second CWB Independent Retail Awards. Recognising performance and innovation across the childrenswear sector, the Awards provide a platform from which to reward excellence in childrenswear stores both old and new. The winners will be chosen by an industry judging panel selected by and including CWB editor Laura Turner, and announced in December. “I am delighted to launch CWB Independent Retail Awards 2016 after the huge success of last year’s,” says Turner. “The feedback we have received from last year’s winners has confirmed that the Awards achieved what they set out to do: promote the talent, creativity and innovation that so readily exists in the independent childrenswear sector. “Our aim is for the Awards to evolve, reflecting the changing needs of the industry,” continues Turner. “With this in mind, the new category of Best Baby Store has been added for 2016, reflecting Bubble London’s s/s 17 launch of Bubble Bump, a showcase for the maternity and nursery sector.” As well as the prestige of being crowned the best in childrenswear retail, the winners will receive a comprehensive store marketing package and dedicated coverage in CWB magazine, both in print and digitally. Independent retailers across the UK are invited to nominate their stores for the following categories:
Closing date for entries: 30 September 2016 — For an entry form visit: www.cwb-online.co.uk
BEST KIDS’ INDEPENDENT STORE The Best Kids’ Independent Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who solely trade within the children’s apparel, footwear or accessories sectors. Designed to recognise the talent of those who bring the best in branded childrenswear to customers in their local region and beyond, the award will highlight a retailer within the sector which has become a destination store in its own right.
BEST SCHOOLWEAR STORE The Best Schoolwear Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who trade within the specialist schoolwear sector. Designed to recognise the talent of those who deliver quality and durable uniform within the strict seasonal timetable of the sector, the award will highlight a retailer which offers parents a reliable service alongside schoolwear essentials.
Sponsored by:
BEST FOOTWEAR STORE LONDON
BEST ONLINE STORE The Best Online Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who do not have a bricks and mortar shop and trade exclusively online in children’s apparel, footwear and accessories. Designed to recognise the talent of those who bring the best in branded childrenswear to customers on a digital level, the award will highlight a retailer who has turned a domain into a destination in its own right.
BEST NEW STORE The Best New Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who trade solely in children’s apparel, footwear and accessories and have opened within the past two years. Designed to recognise a start-up retailer that has opened since 1 July 2014, the award will highlight the innovation and determination required to launch a successful independent business.
The Best Footwear Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who specialise exclusively in the children’s footwear sector. Designed to recognise the talent of those who bring the best in branded children’s footwear to both parents and children, the award will highlight a retailer with exceptional fitting and customer service as well as an essential offer of footwear brands. Sponsored by:
BEST BABY STORE The Best Baby Store category is open to independent retailers across the UK who specialise exclusively in newborn and baby essentials, including baby clothing, nursery product and maternitywear. Designed to recognise those serving the comprehensive needs of parents and gift buyers, this award will highlight the in-depth knowledge, specialised customer service and complex product mix required to be a success in this field.
#wearthecrown JUNE/JULY 2016 - 12
INDX KIDSWEAR SS17
A bespoke trade show exclusively for indie retailers
3-4 July 2016
FREE ENTRY FREE REFRESHMENTS FREE LUNCH FREE ON SITE PARKING Register online now: www.indxshow.co.uk Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull, B90 4LF T: 0121 683 1415
RETAIL | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
RETAIL THERAPY We reveal our favourite independent boutiques as well as news and store events from the world of childrenswear retail.
MILKSHAKE BOUTIQUE 59 Alderley Road, Wilmslow, Cheshire Brand new to the children’s retail front is Milkshake Boutique, which opened on 30 March in the affluent town of Wilmslow in Cheshire. The store is co-owned by Jacquie Swede and Victoria Nichols, who both have extensive industry experience to apply to their childrenswear enterprise. Swede was a buyer for 11 years, working for various companies including Shop Direct/Hut Group and the JD Sports group, while Nichols spent 11 years working for Americana, the owner of Bench, on the wholesale side of the business. Milkshake Boutique caters for boys and girls from newborn to 16 years across all product categories. Customers are presented with a strong brand mix, with key labels stocked including Kenzo, Mini Rodini, Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren, Billieblush, Billybandit, Carrément Beau, Mayoral, Canada Goose, Moncler, Chloé, Little Marc Jacobs, Molo, Fendi, Simonetta, Bandits and Step2wo. The clean design of the store has been created by Manchester agency NoChintz, a creative studio focused on interior design and branding. Against the clean backdrop, stock is merchandised by brand and colour theme. In terms of services, Milkshake Boutique offers a personal shopping service and customer contact list, which shows customers what stock is arriving. The retailer also has a website due to be launched any day. For the future, Swede and Nichols plan to look into offering a more focused footwear range, having identified that there is an opportunity for this in their area.
JUNE/JULY 2016 - 14
RETAIL | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
KIDS IN THE CITY 21 St John Street, Perth Kids in the City is Perth’s new, family-run children’s clothing boutique. Opening its doors in March, the Scottish independent offers mid-tohigh-end children’s clothing for ages 0-10, as well as accessories, gift sets and footwear. Key brands include The Bonnie Mob, Agatha Ruiz De La Prada, Tutto Piccolo, Butterscotch, Tinny Shoes and Bluebird baby gifts. Wanting the look of the store to be inviting for both adults and children, owner Linda Hodes has opted for a fun, colourful scheme. A children’s play area houses colouring books and toys while hints of a modern, industrial-style aesthetic features in the older kids’ section. For those unable to reach the store, there is an online shopping and a home delivery service. Hodes’ 10-year plan is to expand to another one or two premises in other areas of Scotland as well as launching an own-brand range.
SID & EVIE’S 174 South Lane, South Woodford, London E18 Coming from a retail background meant Suzanne Bennett had a wealth of experience to apply when she opened her own children’s boutique, Sid & Evie’s, in May 2010. Based in north-east London, the family-run business provides a one-stop shop encompassing clothing, footwear, wooden and traditional toys, gifts and accessories. Part of the ethos of Sid & Evie’s is that it is affordable; brands stocked include Mayoral, Lilly + Sid, Hatley, Emile et Rose, Frugi, Salt-Water, Primigi, Geox and Dr Martens, with Bennett always on the hunt for new, small companies to add. Plans for the store include a focus on stock, ensuring the brands and products carried remain fresh, as well as continuing to provide customers with good service and incentives to shop at the store. www.sidandevies.co.uk
News:
SCANDI MINI TURNS FIVE Childrenswear and accessories website ScandiMini.co.uk is celebrating its five-year milestone. The London-based site, which started out selling Scandinavian kids labels, today offers over 150 independent children’s brands including Mini Rodini, Bobo Choses and Stella Kids. To help mark its birthday, Scandi Mini teamed up with designer friends to create exclusive, limited edition collaboration pieces that the public could win through a social media campaign.
LITTLE GIANT Grazyna Wynne-Griffiths, a PR specialising in luxury and children’s fashion has launched online childrenswear boutique Little Giant, which went live at the end of April. Wynne-Griffiths’ aim is to deliver a platform to showcase independents and provide an intimate site where brands, which currently include Billybandit, Braveling, Message in A Bottle, Milk & Biscuits and The Little Shoemaker, can promote their individuality. “I didn’t want to just use the imagery from the brands; I felt it was important that Little Giant had its own personality,” says Wynne-Griffiths. With the current site being temporary while the main site is built, Little Giant certainly has exciting times ahead. www.littlegiantedit.com
MELIJOE TEAMS WITH GOOGLE Melijoe, the French e-commerce site dedicated to luxury children’s fashion, has been selected by Google France for Scale-Up, a programme designed to support 10 French start-ups with their international development strategy. Founded in 2007 by mother of five Nathalie Genty (pictured), today Melijoe generates over 70 per cent of its business in international markets, represents over 100 brands in nine languages and offers a fashion-forward magazine.
Retail news in brief: SHOPSTYLE STRENGTHENS TEAM
FEEFO FOR FREE
International fashion search engine ShopStyle has appointed Jonty Shipley as director of marketing and site for Europe. Shipley has extensive e-commerce experience from his nine years at Amazon, where he had a number of different roles including launching Amazon’s UK clothing store while working in product management.
Consumer ratings and reviews platform Feefo has added a new e-commerce plugin to its suite of feedback features - and businesses can install it for free. The free Feefo eCommerce Plugin allows companies to begin collecting feedback immediately, with an allowance of 50 feedback request emails per month and the ability to upload historical sales data. Integration links to a personal business reviews page and access to Google Seller Ratings is also included.
FASHION DRIVES ONLINE SALES GROWTH IN APRIL E-commerce continued its double digit growth this year, with purchases made online racking up a year-on-year increase of 11 per cent in April, bucking the generally sluggish trend on the high street, latest figures by IMRG Capgemini e-Retail Sales Index have revealed. The index was buoyed by healthy sales in clothing/apparel, which recorded a 15 per cent annual increase, building on a similar year-on-year performance in April 2015. JUNE/JULY 2016 - 15
EDITOR’S PICK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
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BRANDS To Watch CWB editor Laura Turner selects the must-have collections to get in-store. —
01: MONIKAKO KIDS
02: OWA YURIKA
Spanish childrenswear label Monikako launched its debut collection for a/w 16. Although the Monikako Kids brand officially launched last year, its origins date back to 2011 when the brand director, Rebecca Sánchez Rodrigo, together with a partner, created Monikako’s first collections. After unexpected international success, it was this popularity that led to the creation and launch of the Monikako Kids brand. Available from three months to eight years, the collection comprises around 50 pieces including coats, dresses, trousers, skirts, overalls, blouses, T-shirts and babies’ bodysuits. Wholesale prices ¤12-¤24. www.monikako.com
Created by Japanese mother and daughter team Yuki Scott and Yuriko Oshima, Owa Yurika is a directional new girlswear label for 4–12 years. Merging London’s cutting-edge design aesthetic with high quality Japanese manufacturing, the brand opts for innovative style that aims to instil confidence in girls. With a muted colour palette, the 12-piece debut a/w 16 collection reflects the practicality, durability and clean finishing of Japanese clothing. Key pieces include a quilted taffeta coat which can be converted into a jacket and blanket, and a pleated, pinafore-style dress. Wholesale prices £15-£99. www.owayurika.com JUNE/JULY 2016 - 16
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EDITOR’S PICK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
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03: BEB & OOO
04: CCCHU
Merging Scandinavian influences with British design is new unisex clothing brand Beb & Ooo. Established in December, the label for three months to four years offers three collections: Prints, Brights and Limited Editions. Across these are bodysuits, T-shirts, hoodies, trousers, dungarees, leggings and dresses, in a mixture of bright, bold colours and quirky prints. The debut range has two main themes, sea creatures and woodland animals, while the Limited Edition range – a selection of products handmade in the brand’s Gloucestershire studio – constantly changes. Wholesale prices £4-£19. www.bebandooo.co.uk
New for 2016 is Hong Kong label Ccchu, offering sustainable apparel for kids and women. The kids’ line for 2-10 years provides simple and essential items for modern living including T-shirts, trousers, jackets and dresses. The entire collection is made of 100 per cent certified organic cotton and uses natural plant dyes. Key is Ccchu’s Everyday Set, which includes a T-shirt and trousers to create a comfortable but sophisticated look. Still in its early stages, collections currently comprise around 20-25 pieces per season. Wholesale prices are from $55 for a T-shirt, $65 for trousers and $65 for a basic dress. www.ccchu.com
05: MISS PRINCESS AND LITTLE FROG Belgium label Miss Princess and Little Frog offers eco products for babies and young children aged 0-3 years. The collection spans babies’ bodysuits, pyjamas, sleeping bags and blankets, bedding products including sheets, quilts and mattresses as well as posters, decorative cushions and rugs. Striking tiger, rabbit and wolf prints are key to the brand look; a dots design and a plain white option are also available. Miss Princess and Little Frog uses the eco-friendly and biodegradable fibre Tencel, which is soft, breathable and durable. Wholesale prices ¤5-¤187. www.missprincessandlittlefrog.com JUNE/JULY 2016 - 17
CWB RETAIL AWARDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
TWENTY QUESTIONS WITH... Kate Austin and Emily Ingram, co-owners of children’s boutique Spotty Herberts in Bath, and winner of the Best New Store in the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2015.
1. What’s an average day in your job? Kate Austin: Work starts after school dropoff with a stroll down through Bath to the shop. Walking through the shop first thing is the best time to spot stock that needs tidying, moving or replenishing. First comes coffee and a quick check of emails and social media, then I gather orders that have come in overnight ready for packing. Throughout the day the priority is our customers, but in between serving we’ll take in deliveries and check up on general day-to-day admin duties. 2. Did you always want to work in retail? Emily Ingram: Doesn’t everyone dream of having their own shop? I used to set up shop on the dinner table as a kid, get all the food out of the cupboards and then not put it back. I still have my little plastic till. Kate and I both have retail experience and we love being creative. Bath is beautiful but lacked a good children’s independent. We talked and dreamed about it for quite a long time; it was Kate who finally said, “Let’s do this.” 3. What do you love most about your job? KA: Meeting customers – you never know who is going to come through the door. Being in central Bath we meet tourists from all over the world; it’s fascinating to hear about their journeys. Our local regulars pop in often and we get to know the children, which is lovely. Emily has one particularly regular customer; each Friday she pops in to say ‘hello’ and to buy a jelly burger and a tiny treasure for her pocket. 4. What’s your least favourite part? EI: I’m not sure there is a least favourite part; maybe for me not being in the shop enough. We both have children so getting the work/ home balance right can be tricky. The kids come to work with us sometimes, which can be interesting and expensive. There’s always a toy they ‘need’. Kate’s daughter Zillah is a super saleswoman; the boys, not so much.
5. What is your greatest retail achievement? KA: It has to be winning our CWB award. To be awarded Best New Store so soon in our adventure is thrilling. We have a lot to learn and this award has given us great encouragement to continue doing the best we can to build a successful shop for children. 6. What motivates you in your job? EI: Our customers and the shop itself, seeing how far it’s come in just a few short years. The positive comments from our customers, or just people passing by, are so encouraging. We love turning the key in the mornings, putting on the kettle and some good music. Happiness is a great motivator. 7. What do you love about the industry? KA: We have really enjoyed meeting makers, designers, suppliers and fellow shopkeepers. All have welcomed us and been supportive and flexible, letting us learn our way through the selection and buying process. We’re constantly finding beautiful new product to add to our wish list. 8. Who is your dream celebrity customer? EI: We’ve had quite a few already, but we’d be quite chuffed if Mary Portas gave us a visit. Chuffed but nervous. We met her very briefly at last year’s Bath Literature Festival and she gave us some great advice. 9. How did you decide on the shop name? KA: ‘Spotty Herbert’ is an old term for a mischievous child with that look in their eye. Both Emily and I refer to our kids as ‘Spotty Herberts’, initially without knowing we did. It seemed the obvious choice for our shop name. Only very recently Emily’s father was overheard bemoaning, “What are you up to, you Spotty Herbert?” to her son, Kip. 10. Do you have a business mentor? EI: Not currently, no. 11. Which is your favourite kids’ brand? KA: A tricky question as we love so many, but I think our choice would be Tootsa MacGinty. One of our first trips to trade shows, before opening the shop, was especially to see Tootsa. We’d read about a new unisex British brand that was pioneering gender neutral clothes, proper happy clothes for children to play and be children in and we knew we’d love it. 12. If you launched your own label, what would it be? EI: We spend a lot of time outdoors in quite drab anoraks, so I’d love to develop a range of unisex outdoor wear. Probably inspired by the great explorers and adventurers, with coloured waxed canvas and home-knitted jumpers and balaclavas: practical and beautifully made. 13. What would your dream store be? KA: More square metres to combine an events area with the retail space.
14. What’s your strangest customer request? EI: We haven’t had many strange requests, but I have had a lady pray for me in the shop. Kate loves it because I get all the ‘unusual’ customers. I’ve had fortune tellers, yogic gurus, lots of people crying, the works. Kate, however, has had a visit from a performing dog, so I think she wins. 15. What is the best and worst piece of business advice you’ve been given? KA: The best; to do one important thing every day and to trust your judgement. The worst has to be the frequent cold calls from service providers advising us to switch. 16. What do you wish you’d known before you started Spotty Herberts? EI: That Kate and I would hardly ever spend the weekend together again, which she might see as a plus. We do get to go away on buying trips together though, so it’s not all bad. 17. Where do you find inspiration? KA: My mother began my family’s business when I was very young. She bought a small amount of camping equipment and began to hire it out from home through the local papers. From here, she and the rest of my family built and grew a very successful retail business. She was my first influence and inspiration. Today I’m constantly inspired by the increasing number of small independents creating beautifully stocked and curated shops to give the customer a real experience. 18. What’s your productivity secret? EI: Loving what we do, coffee and Kate, the driving force in the business. I’m still working in my job in wholesale, so Kate keeps everything on track. She often has to give me a gentle reminder or a huge nudge. I do get things done eventually, but not at the speed she would probably like. 19. Where do you see your business in five years’ time? KA: We’d like to be in a larger space with room to bring in more brands from our wish list and to incorporate a designated events area. We will also continue to develop and refine our website and grow sales online. 20. What difference has being a CWB Independent Retail Award winner made? EI: This award has certainly opened doors to new suppliers and makers. Customers coming into the shop are always interested in our little glass trophy – we’ve even had people passing by and, on seeing the award, popping their heads in just to say “congratulations”. Thank you CWB, we are very proud to have been awarded Best New Store.
Best NEW store dent Indepen il REta s Award
•2015•
Winner
in association with CWB Magazine. #wearthecrown JUNE/JULY 2016 - 18
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MARGIN AND MARK UP FACTORS For new childrenswear brands and retailers, planning margins and mark ups can be a minefield. Here, retail consultant, National Childrenswear Association vice president, ex-Selfridges buyer and all-round industry expert Jackie Cook helps demystify the process. —
The topic of margin and mark up is inextricably linked to the market place and selling price decision making. If your product is exclusive to you and cannot be purchased anywhere else, then you can sell the item for any price relevant to your customer’s budget and the product’s perceived value. In this case, the question to ask is: How much can I realistically get for this product? What is the highest selling price that is still attractive to my target audience? (You can put any price on a garment but it needs to sell, otherwise you are deluding yourself!) If the product is not exclusive to you and is available elsewhere, including online, then you will need to remain competitive to achieve your sales. Nowadays, people shop around with price matching apps, so you should know what other competitors are doing. The decision on your planned margin will depend on the costs that you have to cover. The margin is the difference between the cost price and the selling price. You will have planned your costs such as rent, rates, payroll, website creation, marketing utilities etc, and so you will know the costs that you have to cover
just to break even. But, understanding the availability of your offer with other retailers is crucial in not overpricing. Margin can be expressed as a percentage of your selling price and in childrenswear, this normally excludes VAT. On children’s hair accessories, girls’ handbags and on larger sized garments, the selling price will include VAT and this means that you have to allow for this, too. Retailers use a mark on factor as an easy way of multiplying the cost price to get to a selling price and this will be ‘rounded up or down’ according to your selling price points i.e. £9.95 or £9.99 or £10. For example, £4 x 2.5 mark on factor = £10. Incidentally, in the days before sophisticated tills and credit cards, £9.95 would be used to ensure the sales assistant opened the till to give change and didn’t pocket the £10 note – it also played to the psychology of the customer by appearing as ‘under £10’. Whatever your selling price policy, you need to know the target margin that you require on your turnover to make a profit. Here is an explanation of the way in which the mark on factor of 3.3 is calculated to deliver a planned margin for a business that has exclusive product. Girl’s handbag (VAT rated) costs £7.50 x mark on factor of 3.33 Selling price is £25 or £24.95
Gross Margin is 70 per cent, but the mark up would be 64 per cent (after VAT has been removed) The calculation is: (£25 - £7.50/25) x 100 = 70 per cent gross margin/intake margin £25/1.2 (for a VAT rate of 20 per cent) = (£20.83 - £7.50/20.83) x 100 = (13.33/20.83) x 100 = 64 per cent retail mark up This example shows the impact of VAT; with most childrenswear items, VAT is not relevant. The calculations are the same without the division of 1.2 to get to selling price tax exclusive. For most independents, you will need to be aware of the product price points as exclusivity is difficult with small quantities. In my experience, the mark up factor can be anything from 2 to 2.5 as the norm. However, when you place your orders, check to see whether the supplier knows other people’s pricing policies - remember, it is illegal for suppliers to dictate retail prices - and be aware of the margin that you need to achieve to cover your costs. If the mark up is too low then do not buy the product unless you can ensure a high turnover of units. Remember, you only get out of bed if you are going to make a profit and be able to pay your bills. JUNE/JULY 2016 - 20
Premium quality children’s shoes sizes 17 - 40 FRODDO will be exhibiting at: BUBBLE LONDON Stand C34 19 – 20 June 2016 MODA NEC Birmingham Hall 17, Stand H41 7 – 9 August 2016 FASHION CITY Dublin 5 – 8 September 2016 GATWICK SHOW Holiday Inn 11 – 12 September 2016
FRODDO is celebrating 70 years this year.
www.froddo.com www.KidsNewShoes.com E: pauly.tong@kidsnewshoes.com M: +44 (0)7796 766669 T: +44 (0)1707 888388
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MILLENNIALS: ARE YOU BEING SERVED? Initiative, a London-based communications agency that is part of a large global network, has spent five years conducting extensive global research into the behaviour and attitudes of millennials. As well as providing an overview, the research spotlights millennial mums and dads: what they think and how they shop. CWB takes a look at the findings to discover how childrenswear brands, retailers and marketeers can best reach this vital group of consumers. —
Millennials, the generation born roughly between the years of 1980 to 2000, who were brought up using digital technology and mass media, make up around a quarter of the UK’s population according to the Inkling Millennial Report 2015, a figure predicted to hit 17 million by 2019. It is estimated that this techsavvy lot will have a spending power of £8.9bn globally by 2020; importantly for our industry, these millennials are fast becoming parents. Understandably, businesses are now beginning to take the topic of millennials and how best to cater for them very seriously. In April, London hosted the world’s first millennial business conference, The Millennial 20/20 Summit, which was launched by entrepreneurs Rupa Ganatra and Viktoria de Chevron Villette. Recognising the importance of millennials and why businesses should be reaching out to them, the event gathered brands, businesses and industry leaders who are targeting the millennial generation. Playing host to 150 speakers covering a multitude of topics, the event looked at marketing, retail, design, mobile, payments, video, social, e-commerce, CRM, big data and merchandising. The definitive message that ran throughout the summit was that constant innovation and creativity are essential factors for any business wishing to stay relevant in a millennial-driven market place. In the words of the event’s co-founder, de Chevron Villette, “Change is unavoidable because the generation now taking control of wealth and spending has developed a very different, tech-obsessed consumer taste. Adapting and reacting has never been so necessary for a consumer related company, brand, start-up or investor.” A prime example of a business that
is adapting to the millennial audience is children’s and maternity retailer Mamas & Papas, who recently opened a concept store in London’s Westfield White City created specifically with millennials in mind. Designed by creative agency Dalziel & Pow, it offers a contemporary approach to nursery retail; a digitally advanced, full-service shopping experience. A serene in-store atmosphere is enhanced by the addition of moving digital wall projections depicting clouds that transform into animal forms. Meanwhile, a stress-reducing, confidence-building layout works to demystify the nursery shopping experience by separating merchandise into ‘worlds’ based around new parents’ key shopping requirements. The fashion boutique offers curated product bundles, while the Home section helps parents visualise their perfect nursery using domestic-style room sets encompassing ‘sleeping’, ‘bathing’, ‘feeding’ and ‘playing’, with useful tips located among the displays. The Travel world includes a touchscreen pushchair finder complete with animations, which places millennials in their techy comfort zone and allows them to quickly select a suitable pushchair from an edit based on their lifestyle and requirements. Customers can even test out the retailer’s car seats and learn how to install them in a cut-out Mini installed on the shop floor. Acknowledging millennials as an audience with distinct needs, as Mamas & Papas are doing, requires insight into what makes this customer tick. Initiative’s research into millennials saw it speak to 10,000 25-34 year-olds in 19 countries, supplementing this with online qualitative groups in six of the key markets and interviews with industry experts.
Initiative asked millennials about their lives, their mindsets, how they use technology and how they feel about brands. It also sought to debunk some of the myths and assumptions surrounding millennials – are they really as narcissistic and entitled as we are led to believe? Before we look at the specifics of millennial mums and dads as consumers, it is important to start from the beginning and establish an overview of this generation. Initiative’s research identified three common themes amongst global millennials. THEME 1: ADAPT ‘The ability to adapt is the millennials’ one indispensable life skill and the filter through which they see the world.’ A tension exists for millennials between living in a global economy that feels increasingly competitive, alongside a strong sense that they have more choice and freedom to live their lives as they wish. This has produced the most creative generation yet, defined by its adaptability and resilience. Social media and emerging technology allows them to collaborate, share and work in ever more personal, fulfilling and flexible ways. Money is a big source of worry for millennials. Traditionally, brands have targeted this group because they are likely to have a higher disposable income. However, it is lack of money that is driving feelings of anxiety for millennials, irrespective of whether they have children. Therefore, despite millennials having a greater sense of freedom from cultural constraints, economics mean they are living in the moment and cannot think about planning ahead. JUNE/JULY 2016 - 22
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Millennials acknowledge that they have a lot more choice about how they live their lives, however, this greater freedom brings with it insecurity and uncertainty. So, another tension exists for this generation between having more choices, but in a less fair world, which further underlines how important it is for millennials to be open-minded and adaptable. What this means for brands is that there is an expectation of liberal and modern values and an acceptance of diverse ways of living. When brands don’t acknowledge this, or don’t promote choice and freedom, they can be seen as ‘stuffy’ and out of touch to millennials. TIPS FOR BRANDS: • Millennials aren’t kids anymore; they are adults with all of the expectations and responsibilities of adulthood, even if they are delaying some of the traditional signifiers. • Millennials like brands that are inclusive and diverse and understand the myriad of choices that they are making in their own lives. • As millennials are defined by their personal circumstances, they appreciate and value brands that are useful to them and build emotional connections. They prize truth and authenticity in brands. • Millennials are more brand and media aware than any generation before them. They have differing expectations of large global brands and smaller ones. They judge customer service and experience of large brands with much less tolerance. • Understand that millennials know how much power they have as customers, so treat them with respect and as equals. • Pricing is important – remember how millennials feel about their financial situation.
THEME 2: COLLABORATE ‘The way millennials use technology informs how marketing should evolve.’ Technology is playing an enormous role in shaping who the millennial generation is and how it behaves. The idea of ‘competition’ has been drilled into millennials: in order to succeed in a world with fewer jobs and more uncertainty, they need to be more adaptable and creative to compete. The growth and influential power of online research and product opinion has reinforced the use of social media, transforming what was just a way to connect with friends into a marketing instrument. TIPS FOR BRANDS: • To target millennials, build your strategy from the smartphone out. Be where they are; make your brand more visual and take your lead from their social media behaviour. • View brand reviews through a global lens. • Learn from the energy and enthusiasm with which millennials share opinion and advice online for no obvious reward. Traditionally, brands and businesses have seen the sharing of information as a sign of weakness or competitive risk; learn how to give more freely with no immediate or short-term gain. Brands that give to receive in the short term run a heavy risk of alienating a smart millennial audience. THEME 3: CREATE ‘Millennials recognise the power of innovation and creativity in their own lives, but also in the lives of brands’. Millennials present continual, creative
reinvention. We are seeing a new paradigm of delaying ‘settling’, continued ‘upskilling’, multiple jobs – often simultaneously – and the aspiration to work for oneself. Millennials have been taught that start-ups and owning your own business are true measures of success. There is growing realisation that being self-employed gives people more freedom to live their life as they want to live. For women, this is particularly relevant in terms of combining a career and motherhood. Hence we see that the online marketplace Etsy is driven by women. And we hear the rising power of women’s voices through the freedom that blogging has engendered. Is it any wonder millennials prize creativity (alongside being trustworthy, intelligent, confident and authentic) as a key attribute in their favourite brands? TIPS FOR BRANDS: • Millennials have grown up with a huge respect for innovation and creativity. They are what differentiates both themselves and brands from everyone else. • Millennials love brands that are prepared to take risks, make mistakes and importantly, acknowledge when mistakes are made. • Millennials love to be involved by brands in the creative process, so give them the means to be more creative. • See every engagement as a potential touchpoint to be creative and do things differently. It will build loyalty and respect for your brand. Everything from your delivery man to how you do research is an opportunity to build a connection. >>> JUNE/JULY 2016 - 23
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MILLENNIAL MUMS Millennial mums have been shaped by the social, cultural and economic climate in which they entered adulthood. Like all millennials, they are more confident and educated and thus have high expectations about what they want from life. There are huge opportunities for brands here, as millennial mothers are more receptive, and believe more in the benefits of brands than other millennials. In particular, they admire brands with a purpose. While they share many millennial traits, millennial mums also have distinct characteristics. For instance, while they are very comfortable with technology, their behaviour in relation to technology and social media is distinct, both from non-parent millennials and also other female millennials. IMPACT OF THE RECESSION: The global recession from 2008 onwards has had a lasting impact on millennial mums. More than half struggle with everyday living costs, while as many worry about the cost of housing and the rising cost of amenities such as clothing and food, living in fear of getting into debt. Crucially, they have had to respond and adapt to changing financial circumstances, becoming shrewd to make ends meet. They are keen users of loyalty cards, cashback sites, online coupons, Sales shopping, buying goods on promotion and targeting clearance sales. MULTI-SCREENING: Millennial mums are digital natives; they use their mobile phones for virtually everything. Forty-five per cent of mums say they are addicted to their devices and more than a third are more likely to talk to their friends online than in person. These figures – higher than for all millennials – reflect the radical lifestyle change that motherhood brings. Millennial mums use social media as a lifeline to maintain old friendships from their pre-parenting days: understandably, therefore, brand conversations in this space carry more weight. ONLINE RESEARCH: Millennial mums use online almost exclusively to interact with, or research brands: there is little or no mention of face-to-face interaction. They rely on a variety of websites for information on products and services, including Google, Amazon, Facebook, brand websites and, increasingly, online reviews posted by their peers. The latter point is key, as most millennial mums will trust and value other consumers’ opinions over a brand’s advertising. They are also likely to take into consideration multiple online reviews from strangers, rather than just one.
BRAND OPENNESS: Despite millennials in general being far more cynical about brand communication than previous generations, millennial mums are much more open and receptive to brand messages, enjoying the different ways in which brands communicate with them. Half of millennial mums like to interact with brands through social media and two thirds like to recommend brands, suggesting that their tendency to rely on online reviews could work in a brand’s favour if its service is good. BRANDS AS A FORCE OF GOOD: A simple way for brands to impress millennial mums is to appeal to their view that brands can be a force for good: 62 per cent believe brands should donate to a good cause and 48 per cent believe brands should promote
charity events. The fact that millennial mums are more likely to become loyal to a brand that authentically ‘does good’ highlights the importance of having an extremely clear brand purpose. TIPS FOR BRANDS: • Millennial mums are very much defined and created by the social, cultural and economic backdrop in which they entered adulthood, and they do not become less millennial in their thinking once they become a parent. • Millennial mums are digitally mature and are online more than all millennials. • There are potentially many opportunities to engage more with millennial mums. They are more receptive to brands, more open to brand communication and they want brands to help them. JUNE/JULY 2016 - 24
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MILLENNIAL DADS Initiative’s research into millennial dads is based on the opinions of over 5,250 dads from around the world. The findings revealed that parenthood has a noticeably positive impact on millennial dads, building confidence and reducing anxiety. Being a dad doesn’t appear to impinge on their ‘old lives’ in the way it does millennial mothers. They, like millennial mums, are digital natives, but with changed priorities, something that is reflected in different online behaviour. Furthermore, findings revealed that millennial dads’ attitudes to brands strengthens with fatherhood and playing a key role in the upbringing of their children is more important than it’s ever been before. Being present and actively involved is key for millennial fathers. IMPACT OF THE RECESSION: While parents continue to worry about providing for their families in the postrecession era, millennial dads are more optimistic than mums. They are less anxious and worried, feel financially stable, more confident about the future and are happier at work. MILLENNIAL DADS – DO THEY HAVE IT ALL? The new generation of millennial fathers are confident, fashionable, creative and opinionated: a lucrative audience for brands. As well as being enthusiastic and optimistic,
they are also financially stable. Interestingly, fatherhood enables them to express their creativity like never before. Research suggests fatherhood doesn’t herald such a dramatic change to millennial dads’ existing lifestyles as it does for mothers. DADS SHOP DIFFERENTLY: The main point is that fatherhood shifts how millennial men shop. In-depth interviews conducted by Initiative revealed millennial dads have a much greater degree of involvement in the household shop than anticipated and on a broader scale, are much more active and savvy shoppers. They apply the same level of diligence to online research for family purchases as they previously adopted for technology and gadgets. However, while millennial mums tend to research opinions and peers’ reviews, dads focus on ‘official’ consumer reports. They are also much more likely to seek advice from an independent expert when buying a product or service that they’ve never bought before. There is also an element of social competition with millennial dads. They are more likely than all millennials to want to stand out from the crowd and try new things that no one else has. DADS ARE MORE RECEPTIVE TO BRANDS: Like millennial mums, the attitude dads have
to brands is distinct from all millennials. They are more receptive and believe more in the benefits of brands, which poses greater opportunity for advertisers to engage with them. It may be that parents see a greater value exchange with brands than they did previously. It may also be that becoming a parent creates greater opportunities to learn more from brands than before, because parenthood creates such a shift in outlook. Millennial dads enjoy the variety and innovation of brand communications that aren’t run of the mill and welcome opportunity to interact. However, they do retain the same level of scepticism regarding brands as nondads, with a third saying they are cynical about the way brands communicate. They instead appreciate authentic brand messages and brands that communicate and engage with their customers. MILLENNIAL DADS EXPECT BRANDS TO DO MORE: Millennial dads are more receptive and believe more in the benefits of brands, creating opportunity for advertisers to reach them in an open state of mind. There is almost an expectation that brands be involved in societal issues, so advertisers should consider getting behind a cause that reflects what their brand stands for. However, beware: charity association that feels insincere can work heavily against a brand. TIPS FOR BRANDS: • Millennial dads are a unique and exciting audience. In order to engage with them, brands should tap into their state of mind enhanced by fatherhood by tailoring communications to reflect their optimism, enthusiasm and confidence. • They are digital natives but with changed priorities, which is reflected in transformed online behaviour. This creates an opportunity for advertisers to support dads. • There are potentially many opportunities to engage with millennial dads as they are very receptive and open to brand communication – brands play an important role in millennial dads’ lives. • They believe brands should be a force of good, giving advertisers great opportunity to engage with millennial dads by getting behind a cause that reflects what their brand stands for.
Research provided by: Initiative www.initiative.co.uk 020 7663 7000 JUNE/JULY 2016 - 25
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AT THE SOURCE Leading manufacturing show Fashion SVP is set to open its doors later this month, showcasing some of the world’s best garment producers from near-shore territories. Catering for both high volume players as well as bespoke and individual orders from independent retailers, the show is a must-visit for anyone thinking of launching their own fashion label. —
The UK’s leading sourcing show Fashion SVP will open its doors for the fifth time from 28 to 29 June at London’s Olympia. Established in 2011, the show has been growing rapidly since its inception and now welcomes more than 100 carefully selected garment and accessory manufacturers from 15 countries. The growing popularity and significance of the show is attributed to its focus on near-shore production, with exhibitors from countries such as Turkey, Egypt, Portugal, Italy, Romania, Spain, France and not least from the UK itself showcasing their manufacturing capabilities and expertise. “Fashion SVP is the fastest growing fashion trade event in the UK, if not Europe, with 40 per cent growth year on year,” says event director Buzz Carter. “With brands producing more and more collections a year, near-shore sourcing has proved increasingly popular thanks to the obvious benefits such as a reduction in lead times, a shorter supply chain and ultimately lower costs, so a lot of brands are now looking closer to home to meet their production needs. Fashion SVP brings together top quality manufacturers from across the near-shore territories all under one roof, enabling visitors to source directly from some of the best producers in the world, as well as connect with experts in this field and tap into the huge knowledge and skillset they can offer,” he adds. From high quality womenswear, menswear and childrenswear – including specialist sectors such as knitwear, jerseywear, outerwear, denim, tailoring, activewear, swimwear, lingerie, hosiery and accessories – all areas of garment production will be covered, ranging from high end through ethical and organic production to bespoke options and low volume capacities. “Our exhibitors can cater to every need, whether that is high volume production
for high street players or more bespoke orders for top end designers. Equally, many of the suppliers can work with small and individual orders, which is ideal for independent retailers looking to launch their own labels at low volumes, a trend we have increasingly noticed at the show,” says Carter. Visitors will be able to explore what each of the manufacturers can offer. Ranging from simple sewing to full service garment production, this includes design services, pattern cutting, grading and sampling, plus specialist services such as embellished garment production, dye and shrinkage testing and fabric sourcing. In particular, there will be a strong presence from Turkish, Egyptian and Portugese manufacturers in special country showcases, highlighting the countries’ most skilled producers. Fashion SVP will also host a number of show features, including the popular Sourcing
Briefing seminar series, with experts from the likes of Thomas Pink, Kit and Ace, the Ethical Fashion Forum, Harveen Gill Associates, MI Heaven Denim and YKK Europe already confirmed on the line-up and ready to share insider knowledge on essential sourcing and production topics. New to this year’s edition is Innovations Focus, an area providing the latest news on technical and product innovation, presenting an exciting 3D printing display where visitors can learn about the impact 3D printing has had on fashion manufacturing to date and where this development will lead in the future. This area will include a display of 3D printed catwalk fashion, assisted by 3D pioneers Electrobloom, Hobs Studios and 3D Systems. — For more information, a full exhibitor line-up or to register for the show visit www.fashionsvp.com JUNE/JULY 2016 - 26
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TOP TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL E-TAILING CWB asks leading e-commerce experts to share their top tips and strategies to improve your customers’ shopping experience on a multi-channel platform. — IMPROVING CUSTOMER ENGAGEMENT ONLINE
One of the biggest challenges for SME brands, especially independents who are running, launching or expanding their e-commerce site, is getting it right from the beginning, making sure their website delivers on ease of use, customer experience, imagery, quality and speed – no mean feat! It can be very intimidating for smaller brands to run an e-commerce channel, given the tough competition which exists from larger brands who enjoy increased brand recognition. Don’t forget though, the great thing about online is that everyone can compete; you just need to know how to differentiate your brand from the rest. MOBILE Customers are easily put off when they walk onto a messy shop floor, and the same is true of unprofessional looking, hard-tonavigate websites. According to the IMRG Capgemini Quarterly Benchmark, in Q4 2015, smartphones and tablets accounted for 51 per cent of UK online retail sales – a huge amount. This tells us that having a multi-platform site which accurately reflects your brand and its values is vital. I can personally attest to this: last year, we worked hard on improving Joules’ e-commerce platform, www.joules.com. By introducing new imagery, and an easier to navigate site, we’ve made our customers’ experiences quicker and more enjoyable – the feedback speaks for itself. ENGAGEMENT Customers now have the ability to purchase anything they want with just a few taps of their fingers, and are less brand loyal than ever before. To ensure that customers continue to return and thus drive long-term success, brands have to really work on customer engagement. One way of doing this is by offering visitors updated, engaging content
(both graphic and written), and using social media to get the brand message out there. Here at Joules, we use a number of marketing channels to drive traffic to the website, including targeted email, search advertising and marketing affiliates, which we find works better than more general display advertising. We also keep a close eye on ROI, and continuously evolve our offering to respond to the market and consumer behaviour. CONSISTENCY Many retail businesses now operate through a number of channels: retail, e-commerce, licensing, catalogue… the list goes on! But a multichannel approach does potentially dilute the brand message and experience. Keep a close eye on consistency here, checking regularly that online is a true reflection of the retail experience and vice versa. LOOK AT THE BIGGER PICTURE Although I would stress not to let it take over from managing your website closely, understanding the importance of how technology can enable the growth of a successful e-commerce site is important. The internet is changing all the time, and assessing the online market and consumers’ changing habits, keeping abreast of Google search developments and growth in capability of social media as a traffic source, as well as understanding the impact of mobile and being creative are just some elements which can help e-commerce businesses to indirectly mitigate unforeseen challenges and proactively plan for growth. — Ralph Percival is Director of Direct at British-born international lifestyle brand Joules, www.joules.com
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It can be very intimidating for smaller brands to run an e-commerce channel, given the tough competition which exists from larger brands. But the great thing about online is that everyone can compete; you just need to know how to differentiate your brand from the rest.
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RALPH PERCIVAL
BUILDING LOYALTY FROM MARKETPLACES TO BECOME A SUPER SELLER
IAN JINDAL
When Jeff Bezos set up Amazon in 1994, no one could have predicted how it would not only usher in the era of e-commerce, but also how it would create the whole marketplace economy that in many ways drives retail today. Marketplaces have revolutionised e-commerce in two ways. Firstly, they have levelled the playing field and allowed all manner of SME retailers and niche offerings – Mom and Pop artisan craft brands, right through to eclectic retro clothes sellers – to play in e-commerce. Secondly, they have given all retailers the chance to grow and develop their stock portfolio in an almost limitless way. From a consumer point of view, marketplaces have also delivered unparalleled choice, competitive pricing and the ability to pretty much buy anything at the touch of a single smartphone button from anywhere in the world. A successful marketplace must always be based on getting both these things lined up. First, the shopper has to have more product choice, highly competitive pricing and better service. Additionally, the sellers using the site must have a lucrative new sales channel where the operator has increased traffic, sales and profits. But, as a seller, marketplaces are your ‘frenemy’ – on the one hand they deliver vast amounts of eyeballs and potential shoppers to your door and help you sell stuff, but they also kill repeat business and loyalty as the customer sees the marketplace as the brand they have dealt with, not you. And you want them to fall in love with you. In this day and age you can’t afford not to use marketplaces, so how can you best >>> JUNE/JULY 2016 - 27
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use them? Follow these six steps to help you on the road to becoming a super seller. 1. Take pride in your listings The most important thing is to take pride in how you appear on marketplaces. Above all, make it easy for buyers. The consumer feasts first with their eyes: make sure that you are awash with good images that really sell the product. 2. Be concise Make sure that your opening paragraph about the product is clear, to the point and not a load of waffle. By all means, list the products’ many features – and even tell the customer about your business – but leave that for later. You only have a tiny amount of time to get their attention, so use it wisely. 3. Spread your wings Don’t be shy; put yourself and your products on as many different marketplaces that seem appropriate. Marketplaces are designed to suck customers up and so to get in front of as many people as possible, you need to be everywhere. Tailor what you say and how you display to each marketplace’s nuances as you see fit. One size doesn’t necessarily fit all. 4. The tipping point Understand the triggers that get your customers to buy particular products and make sure that they are listed at the top. Also, make the most of encouraging reviews, recommendations, feedback and star ratings. 5. Build trust This will help the marketplace see you as a trusted brand and propel you towards the much coveted super seller status. It is a little publicised fact that marketplaces will preferentially push customers towards trusted sellers and super sellers in particular, so to get the most from using marketplaces you need to make sure that you are liked and loved by as many customers as possible. 6. Build loyalty from a marketplace The key to any retail business is repeat business, but marketplaces are designed to bring customers back to the marketplace, not you specifically. So how do you build loyal customers from a marketplace? Well, it’s hard; however there are some things you can do. Great customer service, speedy
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Many smaller retailers are abandoning the idea of having their own websites, as they see them as an unnecessary expense when marketplaces are bringing all the traffic.
delivery, great reviews and feedback help. But simple things such as putting a ‘X per cent off when you shop with us again’ voucher (ideally that drives them to your own site) in with the delivery can be an effective way of turning that customer who found you on a marketplace by accident into a regular customer and advocate for you as a brand. Many smaller retailers are abandoning the idea of having their own websites, as they see them as an unnecessary expense when marketplaces are bringing all the traffic – often stealing any traffic away from the retailer’s own site to boot. But this is a mistake. Ultimately, you need to build a brand and to do that you need your own identity. The key is to use marketplaces to sell your products, but through exemplary service based around price, delivery flexibility, returns and general all-round customer service you can drive them to start using your site – and the building of a beautiful relationship can commence. — Ian Jindal is an experienced multichannel retailer, Editor-in-Chief of Internet Retailing and board-level advisor.
MOBILE TECHNOLOGY – THE NEW LOOK FOR FASHION RETAILERS
RAJ PARMAR
Increasingly, mobile retail technology is enabling retailers, particularly those involved with fashion, to engage with their customers in different ways. With this in mind, choosing the right technology – tablets, kiosks and digital signage – is vital for retailers looking to outdo their online competitors’ offers. This means emulating elements of the online experience, such as stock availability, greater ease of ordering and payment, personalised recommendations, detailed information on products and alternative colours and styles. AVOIDING PAST MISTAKES In the pursuit of providing this experience, it is crucial that retailers research their options before making a decision. Three years ago, as retailers first began deploying mobile technology into their stores, many jumped the gun by installing iPads and Android tablets. Most of these retailers soon found that these devices brought many of their own flaws in-store: they had a tendency to break, were vulnerable to theft while being charged and became a drain on resources.
THE MOBILE REVOLUTION Despite past mistakes, retailers should not be deterred from embracing mobile technology. Multi-functional tablets specifically designed for the high street have since become readily available. These tablets are designed with an elegance that can match the aesthetics of even the most high-end fashion store, while also being durable and highly adaptable, utilising familiar operating systems such as Windows. Armed with these tablets, sales associates can provide customers with the same information they would find online, such as alternative colours and available sizes, as well as in-store promotions, without the need to abandon them on the shop floor to check for stock in a back room. Innovative retailers across the UK are also seeking ways to further increase customer interaction with additional in-store technology. For instance, PoS systems with swivelling, fully reversible tablet docking stations can be easily manipulated or detached to assist customers. If customers of a fashion chain, for example, have been using the brand’s app online, their purchasing history can be imported to the in-store tablet, enabling the assistant to quickly match what is suggested by the customer’s preferences. THE FULL OMNI-CHANNEL EXPERIENCE Kiosks serve a similar function, enabling customers to complete transactions quickly with self-service technology. This technology also provides a robust omni-channel experience for shoppers by allowing them to come in-store to browse and then add
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Through technology such as tablets, kiosks and highdefinition digital signage, retailers move much closer to the personalised experience delivered by online retailers, closing the gap between physical and online.
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products they like to the digital shopping cart they first started online. They have the option to either pay in-store or continue browsing items at home. Rounding out the new in-store experience is digital signage, which can provide retailers with interactive content and a dynamic way for them to communicate their brand, new product information and offers to their customers. The same video content used online can be played in-store using digital signage, which is highly customisable and allows the retailer complete control over content in multiple locations. THE RIGHT COMBINATION In the right combination, these technologies allow fashion retailers to provide customers with a fresh and pleasurable experience that brings new opportunities for cross and up-selling. Retailers can take full advantage of their physical benefits, giving consumers multiple touchpoints, fitting rooms and direct experience with the products they are interested in. Yet through technology such as tablets, kiosks and highdefinition digital signage, retailers move much closer to the personalised experience delivered by online retailers, closing the gap between physical and online. Coupled with data management and welltrained staff, retailers can provide customers with an experience that is infinitely more gratifying than clicking online and waiting for delivery. — Raj Parmar is marketing director for Box Technologies www.boxtechnologies.com
WHY BEING SOCIAL MATTERS TO E-COMMERCE SUCCESS
NENAD CETKOVIC
Retailers in the UK understand the importance of having an e-commerce strategy that works. Global e-commerce is expected to reach nearly $3 trillion by 2018 and British people are now the most frequent online shoppers in Europe. But shopping, both online and offline, is evolving to give customers a different kind of experience. The changing landscape of e-commerce is being driven, in part, by an evolution in our relationship with social media. So how can retailers best adapt to the new emerging trends in social media and the advancing functionality of Facebook to maximise e-commerce success? It can be easy to view social media as separate from other types of e-commerce and marketing strategies. But 90 per cent of consumers say they trust peer recommendations. As social media continues to become a bigger part of everyday life and relationships, it becomes more important to leverage it to succeed with e-commerce. Integrating social media to allow visitors and customers to log in to your site using their social networking profiles, adding social sharing buttons in strategic places, encouraging reviews, optimising social media posts, and empowering user generated content showing real customers using their products are all important steps to take. But Facebook’s advancing functionality offers retailers new different challenges and opportunities. With more than 1.6 billion monthly active users, Facebook is still the top social network in the world, and it dominates the social commerce sector with 64 per cent of global social platform turnover. To monetise its platform early on, the social network introduced advertising as a source of income, and it has since become the focus of Facebook’s business model. To date, Facebook claims to have 3 million advertisers and the latest advertising revenues are $5.6bn, of which more than three quarters are gained from
mobile advertising. Facebook’s advertising power is a direct reflection of the data that the social network collects on a daily basis from its members, allowing advertisers to create targeted advertisements. In studying the behaviour of its users, Facebook realised that 46 per cent of them logged into the site while they were shopping. With this in mind, Facebook lost no time in becoming more deeply involved in the world of e-commerce by creating a ‘Buy’ button in 2014, and launching a new advertising format for retailers, Dynamic Product Ads, in 2015. Most recently, Facebook is integrating e-commerce into its ecosystem with Facebook Canvas, allowing retailers to have the opportunity to offer users a new buying experience, by telling customers their brand’s story and also displaying items from their product catalogue. Facebook’s e-commerce offering builds on two trends: m-commerce and social commerce. It is becoming a mine of information for retailers wishing to build closer relationships with their customers, and reflects Facebook’s increasingly important role in e-commerce. Canvas is an immersive advertising format, where users can discover businesses and then browse their product catalogues in full screen. By clicking on adverts, the user can interact with the retailer’s content: pictures, videos, text and/ or links. On a mobile, Facebook Canvas allows you to create a visually stunning experience where users can zoom in on images, swipe through image carousels and even tilt their mobile device to view panoramic images. The relationship between social media and e-commerce is often a complex one. But the power of Facebook in particular, means that retailers can’t afford to be left behind, or miss out on the opportunities it provides for online sales. Many analysts still doubt that Facebook and other social platforms will prove to be major e-commerce players. But with the relationship between social media and e-commerce becoming increasingly interlinked, and e-commerce functions advancing all the time on social platforms, it’s becoming increasingly clear that being social matters. — Nenad Cetkovic is COO at Lengow www.lengow.com
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With the relationship between social media and e-commerce becoming increasingly interlinked, and e-commerce functions advancing all the time on social platforms, it’s becoming increasingly clear that being social matters.
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INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
LELLI KELLY: COMPLETING THE LOOK This season marks Lelli Kelly’s first girls’ fashion collection, launching exclusively to the UK at Bubble London s/s 17. — In the 24 years since its launch, Lelli Kelly has built a strong and loyal British customer base, with its brightly adorned shoes already sold in many independent UK boutiques. This season, we witness the launch of a girls’ clothing collection inspired by, and under license to, the Italian shoe brand. The result of a collaboration between the creators of British babywear brand Emile et Rose and the Lelli Kelly team, the fashion collection is designed to complement the brand’s footwear, emulating Lelli Kelly’s iconic use of ornate embellishment and vivid colour. CWB’s Laura Turner speaks to Sharon Beardsworth, creative director at Emile et Rose and newly appointed Lelli Kelly licensee, to discover what we can expect from the brand’s fashion debut. — Laura Turner: Lelli Kelly released a small range to accessorise its footwear in 2014. How does the new fashion collection differ? Sharon Beardsworth: It was not a clothing collection launch in 2014; it was a very small collection of tutus and T-shirts designed to be an accessory to the shoes and it did the job of testing the water to see if there was a demand for Lelli Kelly apparel. The new collection is a bona fide fashion collection in its own right and it will be sold into boutiques and childrenswear departments independently, as well as alongside the shoes.
LT: What is the age range for the clothing? SB: It’s available for girls from 3–10 years, which is the core customer age for Lelli Kelly shoes. LT: How will the clothing range co-ordinate with the footwear offer? SB: There are some iconic Lelli Kelly footwear styles that appear in every spring/summer collection and which are the essence of the brand. These are the inspiration for our first apparel collection. LT: How many pieces are there in the debut collection and what does it cover? SB: There are 80 styles in the collection covering partywear, sporty jog suits and logo T-shirts, as well as funky tops and shorts for everyday wear. LT: What are the hero pieces? SB: We love the print party dresses. LT: What are the wholesale price points? SB: Prices will be mid-market and very competitive in terms of value for money. LT: Who are the brand adjacencies? SB: In terms of price, I would say Liu Jo, Lili Gaufrette and Kenzo. LT: Who are you targeting in terms of accounts for the clothing collection? SB: We are restricting the distribution to keep the exclusivity of the brand – we are probably
looking at a target of around 80-100 stockists across the country. LT: Are there plans to expand the clothing offer over time? SB: We will monitor the sales and note the demand for new styles and the collection will probably grow as a result. LT: With the addition of apparel, are there any new territories or retailers Lelli Kelly is focusing on for wholesale? SB: Lelli Kelly clothing will be launched in the territories which are strongest for the brand’s footwear – which are Italy and the UK, Greece, the USA and the Middle East. We will also be doing a joint launch in China in July. LT: What are Lelli Kelly’s plans for the UK and how is the brand investing in the British market? SB: The UK is seen as the primary market for the apparel launch season, with the fabric weights and styling being ideally suited to the UK climate and taste. We are launching at Bubble London, the UK’s leading kids’ trade fair, and investing in a brochure website and YouTube channel for the brand, too. LT: Any other developments for Lelli Kelly? SB: Yes, Lelli Kelly SPA recently made an agreement with one of the biggest factory groups selling shoes and garments in China, which includes the launch of Lelli Kelly flagship stores.
LT: The new clothing range is under license to Lelli Kelly in collaboration with the creators of Emile et Rose – how did this partnership come to fruition? SB: We were introduced by a retailer who wanted to stock the brand and was disappointed to see that there wasn’t a clothing collection available. He thought that the great quality and deliveries of Emile et Rose, together with the flair and fun of the Lelli Kelly brand, would make a great combination. LT: What inspiration has been taken from the footwear to create the clothing? SB: Essentially, the colour palette, the imagery, the ‘bling’ factor and the fun personality of the footwear are all present in the garments. We have some fabulous exclusive prints, too, which is the very essence of the Lelli Kelly brand. JUNE/JULY 2016 - 30
SHOW GUIDE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
EXHIBITION CALENDAR CWB’s guide to this season’s trade shows. —
BUBBLE LONDON 19-20 JUNE Business Design Centre, Islington, London www.bubblelondon.com — Leading children’s trade show Bubble London will return to the Business Design Centre, Islington, on 19-20 June, bringing with it over 250 new fashion, accessories, gift, homeware, maternity and nursery collections. The s/s 17 edition will showcase product from both well-established heavyweights and emerging designers, with new area Bubble Bump offering buyers the chance to see some of the industry’s most exciting maternity and nursery labels. In addition to its most diverse line-up yet, the show will be bringing visitors a packed programme of special features. Go to page 35 for the full Bubble London preview, including events and features taking place at the show. —
PITTI BIMBO 23-25 JUNE Fortezza da Basso, Florence www.pittimmagine.com — Pitti Bimbo is expecting 479 collections and over 6,700 buyers to its s/s 17 edition. Key signings include the launch of Aquazzura’s first children’s collection, Aquazzura Mini, and CWF Group’s return with a showcase of the new Zadig & Voltaire childrenswear collection. Other points of interest include a new pop-up store dedicated to kids’ eyewear and a project entitled Fashion Comics, which will see children’s fashion brands dress the iconic character Miffy. Elsewhere, Business of Fashion (BOF), a leading digital communications platform for the fashion trade, has created a special online guide for the fair dedicated to the childrenswear market, covering the latest trends and key players. Following the success of last season’s Apartment fashion show, Pitti Bimbo will present two special runway shows for s/s 17. The first, Apartment Couture, will showcase a selection of sophisticated luxury collections while the second show will feature some of the highly creative brands and collections from Pitti Bimbo’s KidzFizz section. — FASHION SVP 28-29 June London Olympia www.fashionsvp.com
PLAYTIME PARIS 2-4 July Parc Floral de Paris www.playtimeparis.com
KLEINE FABRIEK 10-11 July Amsterdam RAI www.kleinefabriek.nl
CHILDREN’S CLUB 31 July–2 August The Javits Center, New York www.enkshows.com
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INDX KIDSWEAR 3-4 JULY Cranmore Park, Solihull www.indxshow.co.uk — Held at Cranmore Park in Solihull, Indx Kidswear has a buyer and business focused approach. More than 150 brands are confirmed for the s/s 17 event, which will include established UK brands through to new labels. Key returns to the show this season include Lilly + Sid, Hatley, Emile et Rose, iDo by Minicof and Blue Seven. These will be accompanied by a host of other established names such as Mayoral, Frugi, Kite and Powell Craft. Other key s/s 17 signings include Nod, Petit Oh, Mintini Baby and Dr Kid. Indx Kidswear aims to offer buyers a stress-free visit. Housed in one showroom for ease of navigation, admission to the show is free and reserved for independent retailers only, as is parking outside the venue. Visitors can also enjoy complimentary lunch and refreshments for the duration. —
CBME CHINA 20-22 JULY 2016 NECC, Shanghai www.cbmexpo.com/en — CBME China is the world’s largest trade event for child, baby and maternity products. This year’s show will take place in a new venue, the National Exhibition Convention Center (NECC), presenting over 3,000 local and international brands from more than 2,250 exhibitors. Cool Kids Fashion, co-located with CBME China, will house almost 100 brands offering children’s clothing and accessories for 0-16 years. Don’t miss this season’s exclusive fashion show for Spanish childrenswear brands. Other highlights include the CBME China Innovative Products Awards Gallery, where the industry’s latest product developments can be voted upon. The licensing zone, meanwhile, will gather around 50 licensing brands in a 5,000 sq m space offering new properties and brands. Industry seminars, summits and trend forums will also feature. —
MODA FOOTWEAR 7-9 AUGUST 2016 NEC, Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk — For children’s footwear buyers, this season’s Mini Moda will unveil a new-look show with a refreshed colour scheme and new features. Showcasing the sector’s leading labels including Lelli Kelly, Xti Kids, Petasil, Daisy Roots, Ricosta, Bo-Bell, Bobux, Primigi, Gioseppo, Arauto RAP and Froddo, the show will confirm its position as the essential destination for footwear buyers and those buying childrenswear across the sectors. Moda’s new earlier dateline – which sees the exhibition take place around a week earlier than usual – has been welcomed by the children’s sector in particular, because of increased sales in stores in the lead up to Back to School. —
PLAYTIME NEW YORK 31 July–2 August Metropolitan Pavilion www.playtimenewyork.com
CIFF KIDS 10-12 August Forum Copenhagen www.ciff.dk
PLAYTIME TOKYO 23-25 August Belle Salle Shibuya Garden www.playtimetokyo.com
KIND + JUGEND 15-18 September Koelnmesse, Cologne www.kindundjugend.com
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BUBBLE LONDON | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
BUBBLE LONDON 19 & 20 JUNE 2016 BUSINESS DESIGN CENTRE LONDON
NEW AT BUBBLE:
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MIMOSA KIDS Mimosa Kids offers traditional clothing for girls aged 4 to 12 years. Inspired by springtime in London, the s/s 17 collection focuses on pastel colours and fine details that bring an elegant feel to the range. Stand VC19 LOVE MAE Run from a small studio in the coastal hills of northern New South Wales, Australia, is homeware and children’s interior brand Love Mae. The collection ranges from kids’ bamboo dinner sets through to fabric wall decals and wallpaper, with designs aimed at inspiring young imaginations and encouraging creativity. Stand VB19 HULTAJ Hultaj is a new brand specialising in comfortable, contemporary childrenswear with a playful ethos. The clothing is urban, edgy and functional, with highlights including splashes of neon, raw edges and modern cuts. Stand D35 PEHR Inspired by patterns, fabric and design, the Pehr line of home textiles includes Petit Pehr, a children’s collection. Offering an assortment of classically simple yet modern prints, products can be mixed and matched to suit individual tastes. Pehr is designed in Canada and produced in India. Stand VB19 MILOU & PILOU The Skirt by Milou & Pilou is the brand’s iconic piece; a timeless classic that is easy to wear with its wide skirt and braces. The original Milou & Pilou skirt is made using classic blue denim with wooden buttons and an elasticised waist. This season, the collection has been developed with more variants in colour and shape. Stand VC53
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FRENCH KING French King offers an extensive collection of bow ties for both boys and girls: a bow tie for every occasion. Over 60 different styles are available, produced in natural fabrics such as cotton, silk, cashmere and wool. Stand VC3 F:RG & FORM SWEDEN Catering for small babies is F:RG & Form Sweden’s Skummis collection of colourful fantasy animals. Products include music toys, pram toys, teething rings, bath toys and rattles. For s/s 17, organic cotton bedding, beanies, blankets and melamine dinnerware has been added to the range. Stand VB26 NOODOLL Noodoll is a playful, design-led brand that offers striking accessories and stationery for children and adults. Each of Noodoll’s pieces is created and developed from its studio in London with quality, functional design and the environment in mind. Stand VC2 ARSÈNE ET LES PIPELETTES French label Arsène et les Pipelettes offers a relaxed and subtly vintage childrenswear collection for boys, girls and babies. Harmonious combinations of white, grey or mocha are mixed with brighter shades and prints. Refined fabrics are key, including washed linens, fine jersey blends of cashmere, corduroy, cotton voile and lace. Stand C4 CARMEN TABERNER Established in 1948, Spanish label Carmen Taberner offers handmade children’s knitwear. All of the garments are designed, manufactured and finished by hand in Spain. Stand B53
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FRUGI In addition to ethical and organic children’s clothing, Frugi also offers the Mother range. This collection for pregnancy and breastfeeding will be available at Bubble Bump this season. Items include dresses, tops, tunics and pyjamas. BUMP G55 BUBBAROO Australian based, owned and operated brand Bubbaroo specialises in safe and stylish baby sleepwear and nursery products. The collection includes baby sleeping bags, swaddle wraps and swaddle bags. BUMP G50 LULLABÉBÉ Lullabébé is a new British brand of baby products launching with a range of oversized, soft muslins for parents looking for practical and versatile childcare solutions. The large, lightweight muslins measure 120cm x 120cm and come with a matching muslin bag for practical storage. BUMP G51 MOTHERS LOVE FASHION Mothers Love Fashion is a new brand of clothing for breastfeeding. Designed in the UK, the fashionable nursing collection features simple and versatile pieces, which can be worn for any occasion, from breastfeeding and beyond. BUMP G50 SNOOZEBABY Distributed in the UK by Little Saints and making its Bubble debut this season is Dutch brand Snoozebaby, which offers soft baby textile toys, blankets and nursery accessories. Fabrics that absorb the parents’ scent, together with different sized, coloured and textured tags, help soothe babies. BUMP G56
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ANGEL MATERNITY Angel Maternity offers a complete maternity and breastfeeding wardrobe that includes stylish and comfortable tops, dresses, trousers, leggings, outerwear, sleepwear, activewear and loungewear. BUMP G50 MAMA DESIGNS Innovative baby product brand Mama Designs joins Bubble Bump with a collection that includes the Mamascarf, a breastfeeding cover that doubles up a scarf; Babasac, a range of multi tog cotton sleeping bags; and Snoodie, a cotton jersey dribble snood. BUMP G49 MILLA Milla is a stylish, practical and comfortable clothing brand for breastfeeding mothers. Its tops incorporate two discreet zips running up both front seams, providing access to either side of a nursing bra, while integrated modesty bands provide tummy coverage. BUMP G49 ADEN + ANAIS Baby and maternity highlights from aden + anais include the new ‘mini flutter’ and ‘mini bolt’ prints in the layette collection; a kimono style in silver-star print; a new short sleeve, footless kimono one-piece; and solid pink and blue colours for pyjamas. BUMP G49 LARA & OLLIE Lara & Ollie specialises in stylish, silicone baby-proof jewellery for mums. Designed in the UK, the range features geometric beaded necklaces and coordinating bangles in contemporary, eye-catching colours. BUMP G50
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POP
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NOD British babywear brand Nod returns to Bubble this season with a collection focused on bold colour palettes, illustrative prints and whimsical characters. Stand POP C’EST MOI C’est Moi is a professional skincare and performance make-up range for children aged 4-12 years. Formulated in Europe, the safe and allergy-free range includes foundations and water-based nail polishes as well as facial cleansers, moisturisers, hydrating gel and sunscreens. Stand POP WALK MOSES Described as ‘summer slippers’, Walk Moses offers brightly coloured footwear made from a sustainable new breed of eco plastic called PCU. Injected with air for comfortable wear, PCU is also durable, waterproof and washable. Stand POP POCO ROSSO The Poco Rosso collection is made from a blend of hemp and organic cotton, offering kids’ essentials in a range of mix and match colours. S/s 17 pieces include a fleecy jumper, hemp T-shirt, unisex shorts, a skirt and strappy dress. Stand POP PATITO BEBÉ Spanish brand Patito Bebé is produced in a workshop in Madrid using only Spanish fabrics and 100 per cent cotton. The collection, which is available with no minimum order quantity, caters for 3 months up to 6 years. Stand POP JAM LONDON Offering a s/s 17 collection inspired by the sea, with hues of turquoise, blue and navy featuring throughout.
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Highlights across the range of knitted and woven blouses, dresses and beach tunics include stripes and lace detail. Stand POP MISS PRINCESS AND LITTLE FROG Belgium label Miss Princess and Little Frog offers eco products for 0-3 years. Highlights include babies’ bodysuits, pyjamas, sleeping bags, blankets, bedding products, posters, decorative cushions and rugs. Products are available with tiger, rabbit, wolf or dot prints. Stand POP NOOOK Noook is an eco-friendly archi-toy that offers a new way of building. Being designed for large scale creative play means children can build structures large enough to play inside. Environmentally conscious, Noook is made from customised cross laminated cardboard crafted in Europe. Stand POP KIDD-IN LONDON Kidd-In London is a unisex children’s clothing brand designed for 4-12 year olds, which offers an assortment of contemporary key essentials. The brand aims to cultivate kid culture, targeting unique individuals and introducing a new wave of young trendsetters. Stand POP SCRUBBINGTONS Scrubbingtons is a range of natural children’s products that are carefully designed to enable primary school aged children to wash themselves. Products in the range include hair and body wash, shampoo and conditioner, hand and face wash and a roll-on deodorant. Stand POP
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BRITISH BRANDS
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LITTLE LORD & LADY Launching this season, Little Lord & Lady offers childrenswear for 18 months to eight years. The brand embraces Great Britain’s heritage, celebrating its style and culture with modern infusions to create co-ordinated outfits with intricate detail. Stand A4 DOTTY DUNGAREES Dungarees by Dotty Dungarees have turn ups and adjustable straps to accommodate growth; dungaree dresses and shorts are also available. Don’t miss the exclusive preview of Diddy Dotty, a new collection of soft dungaree rompers and pinafore dresses for under one-year-olds, which launches late 2016. Stand VC1 ANNALIV The latest collection from Annaliv draws inspiration from Nordic heritage and childhood adventures. Baby booties and bloomers are presented in small wooden boxes alongside knapsacks and ribbon hair bows. Annaliv uses only natural and organic fabrics. Stand VC45 HOLLY HASTIE Holly Hastie’s s/s collection Candy Pop is inspired by maypoles and springtime celebrations. Highlights include a rainbow of candy colours, neon ribbons, sparkle prints, star tulle, taffeta and embroidered organza. A capsule collection of contemporary occasionwear dresses is also available. Stand B1 LILLY + SID Under the Deep Blue Sea, the new s/s 17 collection from Lilly + Sid, sees a mixture of vintage and street trends
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and a focus on colour and patterns. Key are 1960s silhouettes reworked in contemporary stripes and prints while inspiration includes British seascapes and mythical creatures. Stand C32 OH...MY! KIDSWEAR A quintessential brand with an eccentric twist for girls aged 4-12 years. The s/s 17 collection includes striking floral prints, sheer overlays, vintage fabrications, fabrics with high metallic shine and origami styling. Stand B8 LE MU Offering modern classics for girls aged 2-12 years, Le Mu’s latest collection sees Alice in Wonderland inspired pieces. Highlights include lace, bunny prints, pink palettes and delicate gingham patterns. Stand E16 MINIJAMMIES Minijammies is the new kids’ brand from nightwear specialist Cyberjammies. Offering pyjama collections for 4-5 years up to 12-13 years, highlights include lines to complement Cyberjammies’ men’s and women’s collections. Stand C48 BLADE & ROSE Kids’ clothing and accessories brand Blade & Rose, which specialises in leggings featuring designs on the bottom, will offer legging and matching T-shirt sets including flamingo, dinosaur, star and hedgehog designs. Stand A9 RACHEL RILEY For s/s 17, Rachel Riley encapsulates the joy of childhood summer with pastel colours for party dresses and ice-cream prints. There is a nautical theme, with whimsical prints of lighthouses, sailboats and shells, and a picnic theme. The s/s 17 collection, along with a Heritage collection, is available for boys and girls aged 1 month to 14 years. Stand B7
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GALLERY
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MINI LA MODE q
TUTTO PICCOLO p
THE BONNIE MOB q
AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA p
LITTLE WARDROBE LONDON Offering its third collection for s/s 17 is luxury childrenswear label Little Wardrobe London. Catering for 4-10 years, the brand combines British tailoring with fearless design and distinctive silhouettes. For s/s 17 the feel is romantic, with delicate lace, soft cottons, glossy satins, tulle, silks and linens. Stand B25 MINI LA MODE Mini La Mode offers baby clothes made from the highest grade of hand-picked pima cotton. The collection seeks to provide modern day heirlooms, offering pieces handmade by traditional artisans and detailed with smocking and embroidery. Stand B14 CÓNDOR Cóndor is best known for its high quality socks, tights and matching knitwear and for the wide variety of colours it produces – 43 hues in total with tights, socks and cardigans all matching. At Bubble, the brand will showcase its s/s socks and tights collection as well as knitwear and the swimwear collection. Stand G19 GUESS Established in 1981, Guess began as a jeans company and has since successfully grown into a global lifestyle brand. Today it designs, markets and distributes full collections of children’s, women’s, and men’s apparel and accessories. The childrenswear collection for boys and girls is divided into Layette for 3-9 months, Kids for 12 months to five years and Junior, for 6-16 years. Stand G14
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FOQUE Spanish label Foque offers a baby layette line as well as baby and junior clothing lines. A Foque footwear collection is also available, which has been designed to complement the clothing for a complete look. Stand G2 AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA Known for its fun and vibrant prints, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada returns this season with a collection full of colour and pattern. Stand G9 TUTTO PICCOLO Spanish childrenswear label Tutto Piccolo caters for boys, girls and baby. It offers a complete collection with a focus on design, quality and workmanship, encompassing children’s fashion, nightwear, swimwear. Stand G9 THE BONNIE MOB The Bonnie Mob returns for s/s 17 with its practical, hardwearing and spirited childrenswear. Offering a collection of durable and playful clothing for 0-7 years with hints of handmade and vintage influences. Stand D19 ELIZABETH HURLEY BEACH Elizabeth Hurley Beach is a collection for girls up to 13 years of age. The brand’s swimwear is made from high quality European Lycra, which is soft, comfortable and quick drying. Also available are embroidered kaftans, cover-ups and terry cloth hoodies. Stand C5 KISSY KISSY The Kissy Kissy brand is renowned for its use of soft Peruvian pima cotton. Key to the collection is layette, with design features including prints, hand embroideries and hand smocking. Stand G8
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ADVERTISING PROMOTION | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
BOODY BABY STAND A13
BONNÉ GIRL LONDON STAND VC11
DAISY ROOTS STAND C44
DISNEY - THE BOUTIQUE COLLECTION STAND A24
FOOTICA STAND A49
FRODDO STAND C34
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BUBBLE LONDON 19 & 20 JUNE 2016 BUSINESS DESIGN CENTRE, ISLINGTON New range of extraordinarily soft but practical baby clothes made from 95% Organic Bamboo. Ideal for babies’ sensitive skin. Hypo allergenic, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, breathes well and helps regulate temperature. Tel: 01702 589990 Email: sarah@boodywear.co.uk www.boody.co.uk
‘Disney -The Boutique Collection’ is an enchanting NEW children’s fashion label, designed by Travis and inspired by Disney characters. Each dress tells a different story incorporating a range of fabrics and finishes. Delivery from October 16. Tel: +44 (0) 1442 289898 Email: costumes@travis.co.uk uk.pinterest.com/TravisDesigns/disney-boutique
Bonné Girl London is a new girlswear brand created with passion for little girls world who loves bright clothes made with natural materials. We present a fun collection for little beauties aged 3 - 8. Email: sales@girlsclothes.london www.girlsclotheslondon.com
The new must-have brand for keeping kids feet happy! Comfortable, durable shoes with upper, lining and antibacterial insoles made of 100% leather. Designed in UK and hand-made in Europe. The very finest shoes collection with practical solutions. Tel: 0796 1346 437 Email: info@footica.com www.footica.com
Twenty years ago Daisy Roots was created. We’re the original baby and toddler shoe brand and every shoe is designed and handmade with love in the UK. Tel: 01604 876 800 Email: hello@daisy-roots.com www.daisy-roots.com
Premium quality children’s leather shoes, from babies to teenagers sizes 17 - 40. Eco friendly and anatomically designed with arch support and breathable membranes. Vibrant colours and stylish designs. Tel: 01707 888388 Email: pauly.tong@kidsnewshoes.com www.froddo.com
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KISSY KISSY STAND G8
LULLABÉBÉ STAND BUMP G51
MILOU & PILOU STAND VC53
MIMOSA KIDS STAND VC19
MISS NELLA STAND VB16
PEDIPED STAND A30
PETASIL STAND C43
PLATYPUS AUSTRALIA UV SWIMWEAR AND BEACHWEAR STAND B10
POCO ROSSO STAND POP
Platypus Australia’s UV Childrens Swimwear & Beachwear Collection is a high quality sun protective range for girls and boys aged 0-14 years. The new on-trend items are a must see!! Tel: 07967 416386 Email: mark@barnettagencies.co.uk www.platypusaustralia.com
US kids footwear brand – the next best thing to bare feet. Beautiful SS 17 collection covering sizes newborn to EU38. Tel: 07703 856072 Email: matt@pediped.com www.pediped.com
Organic and fairtrade, everyday ethical fashion. The Poco Rosso collection is sourced responsibly using hemp & organic cotton. Practical, casual, high quality, good design clothing at an affordable price. Tel: 07876 522341 Email: emma@bohohemp.co.uk www.bohohemp.co.uk
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Petasil create stylish, fashionable footwear, crafted from the finest quality leather, with soles that are as soft and flexible as possible to ensure kids foot care is at the forefront. Tel: 01604 876 800 Email: sales@marrum.co.uk www.petasil.com
Miss NELLA is a non-toxic, peel-off nail polish, with a water-based formula, perfectly designed for children. Miss Nella kids’ nail polish is available in 18 playful colours! Tel: 020 8451 0832 Email: sales@missnella.com www.missnella.com
Milou & Pilou is a young vintage-flavoured brand from Barcelona that offers stylish clothing for girls aged 0 - 10. The Skirt by Milou & Pilou is their iconic piece, an easy-to-wear skirt with braces that recreated the timeless classic skirts from the early 40s. Email: info@milouandpilou.com www.milouandpilou.com
MILOU & PILOU s
London designed “MIMOSA KIDS” girls-wear brand makes its debut at Bubble this June unveiling their SS17 collection. Their elegant designs offer beautiful luxurious fabrics for girls aged 4 to 12 years old. Tel: +447910491067 Email: info@mimosakids.com www.mimosakids.com
Touched by the beauty of Provence, Lullabébé create large, beautiful and versatile 100% cotton muslins for babies. Tel: 07927 897450 Email: bonjour@lullabebe.com www.lullabebe.com
LULLABÉBÉ s
The most beautiful soft Pima Cotton is used to create a collection of wonderful designs, prints, hand embroideries and hand smocking. Quite simply superb. Tel: 01442 248 103 Email: sales@finestforbaby.co.uk www.kissykissyonline.com
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WHAT’S ON: Bubble London returns to the Business Design Centre this June, bringing with it over 250 carefully selected fashion, accessories, gift, interiors, maternity and nursery brands, and a unique programme of features and events.
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LOOK WHO’S TALKING SEMINAR PROGRAMME: Bubble’s s/s 17 Look Who’s Talking seminar programme is packed with fresh insights and unmissable tips. Discover next season’s key trends, catch panel discussions with industry insiders, and learn more about our most exciting new brands. THE BUBBLE BOOKSHOP: Bubble is opening its very own bookshop this June. Peruse titles from a host of innovative publishers, including colouring specialists Michael O’Mara Books, coffee-table favourites Phaidon, Halliday Books, Wonder in Alice Land, Barefoot Books and Turnaround. WE’VE GOT CHEMISTRY: Bubble’s s/s 17 edition will see the launch of We’ve Got Chemistry, a new feature showcasing unique brand collaborations. This season, it will be taking a look at the partnership between La Coqueta and lifestyle label House of Hackney, co-creators of a childrenswear range for s/s 16. Don’t miss their exclusive installation. RISING STAR: Bubble’s renowned Rising Star competition is also set to make a welcome return, showcasing some of the industry’s top launch brands. Looking for a future bestseller? Keep a close eye on this season’s line-up, and don’t miss the crowning of the winner on Sunday. BUBBLE PARTY: The Pearl and Feather, Angel, will play host to Bubble’s bi-annual party this summer. Join the team from 6pm on Sunday evening, and raise a glass to the new season. NOODOLL: Whimsical design brand Noodoll is coming to Bubble. Visit VC2 to see its latest collection of accessories and stationery, take part in fun crafting activities (including giant colouring) and stuff your very own plush toy. SPUN CANDY: This summer, Bubble is welcoming back artisan confectioners Spun Candy. Swing by their stand and sample a whole range of sweet treats – including bespoke lollies and fluffy candyfloss. TOMS: Renowned one-forone footwear brand Toms will also be returning to the show. Discover its latest collection and claim a free coffee, brewed with Toms Roasting Co’s own beans. BUYERS’ LOUNGE: In need of a break between buying? Visit Bubble’s new buyers’ lounge, where you can sit back, take stock and even enjoy a complimentary drink. MY BABA: Following the success of last season’s My Baba Hub, Leo Bamford and her team will return with more kid-friendly fun – including activities from party planners Dazzle & Fizz. BUMP: This season, Bubble is launching Bubble Bump, a standout area dedicated to maternity and nursery collections. Curated by Maternity Buyer’s Liz Pilgrim, its debut line-up features everything from teething jewellery brands to chic maternitywear labels. Whether you’re looking to extend your existing offer, or tap into the ‘Bump Pound’, it promises to be a must-visit. POP: Elsewhere, POP will return for a second outing. Launched last season, the area comprises unique pop-up stands, which give smaller brands a chance to shine. Don’t miss this season’s line-up, including Where’s That Bear?, KIDD-IN London, Scrubbingtons and JAM London.
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PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
LAURA
LOVES
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01: SWIMFIN Children’s swimming aid £11.62 01244 398692 04: BAMBINI & ME Ethically sourced bamboo swaddle £6.25 01732 240662
02: PLAN TOYS Submarine made from eco-friendly, natural rubber wood £5.50 07870 132595 05: MATCHSTICK MONKEY Teething gel applicator £5 07818 416939
03: NOODOLL ‘Ricepuffy’ luxury soft toy £9.40 020 7253 1890 06: ZOOCCHINI Training pants £10 0845 653 1493
Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale JUNE/JULY 2016 - 49
PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
Style GUIDE:
GOOD BUBBLE £3.35, 020 3781 7071 —
STORKSAK £17.50, 020 7284 2252 —
THE CLEAN CUT: CWB’s pick of baby and child-friendly toiletries.
Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
KOKOSO Prices on request, 07949 314246 —
LITTLE HERBS From £4.33, 01373 469996 —
SCRUBBINGTONS Prices on request, 07766 441907 —
GREEN PEOPLE £26.68, 01403 740350 — JUNE/JULY 2016 - 50
7
A brilliant twist on a classic junior girls skirt. Demand is already high for the NEW junior day skort. • Brilliant practical alternative, with the look of a skirt • Seamlessly linked, neatly tailored shorts behind the skirt front panel • Comfortable and modest • Girls can continue to have great fun being as active as they want to be • Available in ages 2/3 up to 11/12, and available in grey from stock
DAVID
LUKE
Call: 0161 272 7474 Or visit: www.davidluke.com for further information & images. Durability in mind. Ethics at heart.
SCHOOLWEAR BUYER: THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY
55: News
56: Back to School prep Schoolwear retailers reflect on last year’s Back to School and discuss how it has shaped their approach for this year’s selling period.
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Schoolwear NEWS: The latest news from the schoolwear industry. CWB INDEPENDENT RETAIL AWARDS 2016 This year sees the launch of the second CWB Independent Retail Awards, recognising performance and innovation across the childrenswear sector. Schoolwear retailers are invited to nominate their stores for the Best Schoolwear Store category, which is open to independents across the UK who trade within the specialist schoolwear sector and designed to recognise those who deliver quality and durable uniform within a strict seasonal timetable, while providing excellent service to parents. As well as the prestige of being crowned the best in schoolwear retail, the winner of the Best Schoolwear Store 2016 will receive a comprehensive store marketing package and dedicated coverage in CWB magazine, both in print and digitally. Applications open this month at www.cwb-online.co.uk. —
NEW OFFER FROM MARTON MILLS Marton Mills, a traditional Yorkshire family-owned weaving mill, is the largest fabric manufacturer to the schoolwear industry in the UK. In addition to its established range of high quality plains, tartans, checks and blazer stripes from stock, or bespoke to customer requirements, this year sees the launch of a wool blend suiting collection of fabrics designed to perform and deliver to the standards required for schoolwear. Marton Mills’ joint ownership of Roberts Dyers and Finishers ensures that high standards of quality and care are managed and maintained thoughout every aspect of the production process. Fabric woven to individual specifications can be finished to suit a particular end use, from a simple fluorocarbon coating, a rainwear proof, a flame-retardant finish or the latest NanoSphere technology. —
NEWS IN BRIEF
FIRST HOUSE OF ADIDAS OPENS IN SCOTLAND Greaves, a family-owned and run sports retailer that has been operating in Glasgow since the 1920s, has opened Scotland’s first House of Adidas for children, men and women; the only House of Adidas in the UK outside of Harrods. The £1m development in Greaves’ flagship Gordon Street store takes the shop to almost 13,000 sq ft, confirming Greaves’ position as the largest independent sports retailer in the country. “It’s great news for Greaves and our customers, of course, but it’s also a real shot in the arm for the city of Glasgow that the world’s top sports brand would choose to partner with its oldest retailer, rather than open its own shop around the corner,” says Greaves’ MD, Sandy Greaves. —
SA GUIDE TO SPECIFYING AND SOURCING UNIFORM The Schoolwear Association (SA) has launched a guide to specifying and sourcing uniform for head teachers, governors, teachers, managers, buyers and other school staff. The aim of the guide is to ensure every child and school benefits from the advantages of a high quality, good value uniform in terms of its benefits to learning, behaviour and safety. “Like schools, many schoolwear businesses are part of their local community, with high ethical values and standards of service, providing local jobs for local people,” says SA chairman David Burgess. “We believe they deserve support but we also recognise that schools must always seek value when specifying uniform, which is why we have produced this guide.” The guide contains advice on producing a tender document, with links to further in-depth resources. It advises schools when tendering to ensure potential suppliers are commercially viable without making overly complex requests for financial information that place an unnecessary burden on them. “Schools and academies need to be aware that during the autumn of 2017, the Department of Education guidelines on buying school uniform are expected to become statutory, and schools will need to make sure that they are aware of their responsibilities,” adds Burgess. “If schools continue to require a sole stockist of the school specific part of their uniform and they have not already gone through a tendering process, they will need to put uniform contracts out to tender and consider carefully the benefits of sole supplier agreements versus a shared supply arrangement.” A copy of the guide can be downloaded from www.schoolwearassociation.co.uk/schools-info. —
Two mothers have devised a barcode scheme to replace the traditional name tags used in school uniform. The women make unique barcodes to stick into children’s schoolwear, which teachers and parents can scan on an app to determine the owners of lost property. The barcodes are currently being trialled in a school in Milton Keynes.
DAVID LUKE’S NEW JUNIOR DAY SKORT David Luke has launched a new junior day skort. The garment has the styling and appearance of a skirt from the front, yet has neatly tailored shorts behind the skirt front panel, which are seamlessly linked. The result is a practical alternative for girls who prefer to have the look of a skirt, to feel comfortable and modest, while continuing to be as active as they want to be. The fabric quality of the skort is the same soft and durable mix of polyester, elastane and viscose as the already popular girls’ skirts and trouser styles. Part of David Luke’s Eco-uniform range, it uses polyester derived from postconsumer recycled plastic bottles. Sold by age, from 2-3 years up to 11-12 years, the skort is offered in grey from stock and is available to order at www.davidluketrade.com from early July for current customers, including free next-day delivery. —
The UK economy is expected to grow at a slower rate through 2016 and 2017, with signs of global economic risks starting to weigh on investment plans, according to the latest CBI economic forecast. The leading business group’s quarterly forecast predicts the UK will see 2.0 per cent GDP growth in both 2016 and 2017, both of which are downgrades from its last forecast in February (2016 – 2.3 per cent, 2017 – 2.1 per cent).
Manchester children’s charity Wood Street Mission has opened referrals for its flagship project to kit out children for school, SmartStart Manchester & Salford. Families living on a low income can apply to the charity during June for help with uniform in time for the new school year. The charity is working with leading national supplier Trutex to help kit out thousands of school children over the summer. JUNE/JULY 2016 - 55
SCHOOLWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
BACK TO SCHOOL PREP Rebecca Jackson asks schoolwear retailers to reflect on last year’s Back to School (BTS) and discuss how it has shaped their approach for this year’s selling period. — SHARON FINNIGAN OWNER, SCHOOL DAYS & JUST DANCING, TWICKENHAM How was BTS 2015? It was very busy up until mid-October last year. One of the schools had a compulsory uniform change and some parents waited until the term started and they had to change them. Generally, customers wait until later on to buy uniform anyway, so it made the whole process a bit later than usual last year. Are you making any changes to improve the way you work for BTS 2016? We’ve changed how we order. Instead of ordering in bulk, we are ordering less and more frequently so that the stock room is freed up a little more and we can cater to demand. How do you market BTS? We’ve just moved onto Twitter this year, so we’re trialling how this will work at the moment. We have Facebook and already market through this. We aim it at the PTA generally and I’d like to focus on promotions and making people aware of what we have on offer. I also run pop-up shops in school. I take stock with me, but when this runs out, I take orders. This has proven to be successful so far. What channels do you sell across? We mainly sell through the shop, though we also sell a fair proportion through the website. Events, such as the pop-up shop, are very successful and a way for me to meet customers and hopefully attract new ones. This year, as we work towards building on our e-commerce offering, we should be selling through mobile phones, too. Are you seeing any trends in school uniform? Not so much with younger children, more so with the senior and secondary school pupils. Uniforms are moving towards a more traditional style and colour palette. We’ve had one school who has made its uniform grey trousers and leggings only, so that pupils can’t get away with wearing skinny jeans or similar styles. Last year, we introduced an eco range and schools like this. Primary schools have got a bit more relaxed in their style. Schools started letting the children wear logo hoodies and generally moved away from cotton to more flexible, sporty fabrics. One school also started letting the children wear their PE kits one day a week. More parents order 100 per cent cotton fabric uniforms now, too, as they believe it’s better for kids who have eczema. What services do you provide to make your business more competitive? We offer buy one, get one half price promotions and a free embroidery service on book bags, rucksacks and PE bags. Any plans for the business? I’d like to grow the number of schools and build on business, as always. The main challenge for us is the social media side of things and growing this side of the business to keep up with larger retail giants who can offer it all. Businesses like Amazon offer immediate delivery, and that’s what people expect nowadays. —
MATTHEW HARRISON MANAGING DIRECTOR, SIMPLY UNIFORM, DERBY How was BTS 2015? Very hectic and busy. Are you making any changes to improve the way you work for BTS 2016? Yes, we have invested in an additional embroidery machine and extra staff. How do you market BTS? A combination of email marketing, mailshots and social media is a large part of our marketing strategy. We also use social media to engage with customers. What channels do you sell across? The majority of sales are currently web-based, which is why we use SEO services to assist: a website can look great and be easy to use, but customers need to know it’s there and be able to find it. Have you noticed any trends in school uniform? Tank tops are making a bit of a comeback with us, especially as schools opt for a more traditional look. Do you have any sizing issues with uniform? In our opinion, the manufacturers are answering any sizing issues in school uniform and also offering a benefit over products offered by supermarkets. Are you trialling anything new for BTS 2016? Our sublimation range of sportswear is a growing area for us. Is there anything suppliers could do to better support your business? Marketing support is getting better, especially Blue Max Banner who is very active with resellers. What services do you offer to make your business more competitive? As a family business, and as parents ourselves, we can appreciate the pressures felt on parents and hopefully help by offering good oldfashioned service. What’s your forecast for BTS 2016 sales? Very promising. Any plans for the business? We are due to move into a new purpose-built unit on a prominent site and would like to start offering other forms of uniform for other sectors, as well as schools. —
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RACHEL MCHUGH DIRECTOR, JOHN MCHUGH, STRETFORD, MANCHESTER How was BTS 2015? Hard work as usual but all in all, a successful year. Are you making any changes to improve the way you work for BTS 2016? We have upgraded some of our systems; new telephones, computers, accounts packages and PDQ points. We have also extended the range of items on our online store to hopefully maximise sales and reach a wider market. Although we are open seven days, we have extended our opening times to include a late night through the summer season, too. How do you market BTS? We have close links with our schools and include marketing material in the parent packs and leaflets and posters within the schools, with store information and links between school websites and ours. We attend all the school induction evenings to promote our store to new parents, advertise locally, and sponsor school events. Being established nearly 60 years also means that we have built up a relationship with generations of customers and have a reputation for quality goods at great prices. Do you utilise social media to engage with customers? It is area we are developing right now, so watch this space. What channels do you sell across? We do them all excluding social media. Our primary way is still through our retail store, but year-on-year, internet sales are on the increase. Telephone and mail orders remain stable, but there has been a drop in demand for in-school selling and ordering events. This is probably due to having an accessible store stocking the full range of sizes, open seven days a week, with knowledgeable staff on hand to assist customers. Have you witnessed any changes in customer buying habits? We have noticed an increase in sales of plain garments, particularly trousers and shirts. Customers are returning to us for better quality products, often after having sampled cheaper high street alternatives. Customer feedback is that they would rather pay a little more for quality and service than opt for price driven goods. What are the current trends in school uniform? Big trends are the slimline and skinny trousers for boys and girls and a move towards straight skirts from the ever popular pleated ones. Do you have any sizing issues with uniform? Every year we seem to extend our range of specials, stocking longer length blazers, smaller and larger sizes, XL long leg length trousers and a bigger range of sturdy trousers. Are you trialling anything new for BTS 2016? We have introduced scout and guide uniforms so it will be the first BTS with a full range on offer. We have also introduced pumps, hair accessories from Bows4Schools and some of the new range of bags from William Turner. Is there anything suppliers could do to better support your business? Overall, suppliers have improved. We have found online ordering helps, especially in busy times, and we would like to see this from all of the major suppliers. Faster embroidery turnaround in season and quicker made-to-order garments would help, too – along with keener prices. What services do you offer to make your business more competitive? Customer service is key. Having a dedicated team with in-depth knowledge of correct uniform requirements and ability to assist with sizes is vital. We offer savings plans, operate a layaway scheme, we have a variety of purchasing options and offer a very competitive, quick tailoring service. What’s your forecast for BTS 2016 sales? We will be looking for continued growth. We have retained existing schools and taken on a couple of new accounts for BTS 2016. We would hope for increases in sales from plain items and accessories. Any plans for the business? We will continue to focus on updating our systems and look to further improve our online services to ensure that customers receive the same level of customer service as they do in-store. We are also keen to develop the skill set of the existing team, and provide the staff with more opportunities to take on new and exciting responsibilities. —
STEVE OPTIX PARTNER, BRENDA’S, CAMBERLEY, SURREY How was BTS 2015? Crazy! Are you making any changes to improve the way you work for BTS 2016? We are increasing staff numbers even further and opting for a shift pattern. We’ve added two more changing rooms, taking our total to nine to increase throughput and reduce waiting times. We’ve also invested in a warehouse unit so that we can store more stock offsite and utilise the freed up space to add to the shop floor. How do you market BTS? Generally we don’t. We attend many, or supply material for, new parents’ evenings, which of course does market BTS for us, but not in the traditional sense of marketing. Do you utilise social media to engage with customers? We use Facebook. We used to use Pinterest, but it’s not localised enough yet. We also used Twitter for a while, but didn’t find it beneficial. Personally, I think Facebook ‘likes’ are a much stronger indication of an interested party than a Twitter ‘follower’. What channels do you sell across? In-store and online. We are seeing continual growth in both, partly down to new contracts, but also natural growth in online sales. I’d like to say it would reduce pressure on the shop floor during BTS as the online take usage grows, but I can’t see that happening. Have you witnessed any changes in customer buying habits or any trends in school uniform? Buying habits, nothing really noticeable. Uniform trends, I think skinny and slim fit has reached saturation point and will start to ease off whilst the trendsetters decide on the next ‘cool’ look. Do you have any sizing issues with uniform? We of course have a natural increase commensurate with higher customer numbers year-on-year, but suppliers are adding more and more extra length to their ranges, which is very helpful and saves an alteration. Despite the media coverage, we don’t notice any more demand now then there was 10 years ago. Are you trialling anything new for BTS 2016? We are growing some brands we’ve built up over the last two or three years, but it’s our ongoing mission to constantly re-evaluate to ensure that the best products are being sold for each purpose. Currently we believe 95 per cent of our product is from the best possible sources for style, durability and cost and we are always tweaking about five per cent. Schools’, parents’ and children’s requirements change all the time. We’ve got to be adaptable in the products we supply to ensure they are 100 per cent fit for purpose and we stay ahead of the competition. Is there anything schoolwear suppliers could do to better support your business? The suppliers we work with are fantastic in the way they are all looking at ways to make our lives easier. Order updates, live stock figures online, larger stockholding, forward booking offers, increased credit limits during peak season and early settlement discounts are just some of the ways in which our suppliers support us. What services do you offer to make your business more competitive? Our online service with 24-hour delivery is very popular; we subsidise the cost of this to make it more attractive for the customer. We operate a deposit scheme to help families spread the cost of school uniform purchases, which has had more take-up than ever this year. We believe our ongoing mission to sell the best products for the best price coupled with our massive customer service ethos and huge stockholding keeps us competitive in all areas. What’s your forecast for BTS 2016 sales? We’ve taken on three more schools with a combined roll of 3,000 children in the last two months, so we envisage an even busier summer than usual. Any plans for the business? Something big is in the pipeline, which should be launched for BTS 2016. The details are being finalised as we speak. —
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CAROLINE HARDY MANAGER, THE SCHOOL SHOP, BEACONSFIELD, BUCKS How was BTS 2015? Last year’s BTS went well for us. In the main, our suppliers delivered on time and we got our stock levels right. A complete new uniform was introduced at one of our schools last BTS. This change went smoothly for us and our customers love the redesign. Are you making any changes to improve the way you work for BTS 2016? We have invested in a ‘take a ticket’ queue management system for this BTS. We hope this will help us on the very busiest days at the end of August and beginning of September. Hopefully, having this system in place will help our customers see how close to being served they are and will prevent arguments between customers about who is next in the queue. How do you market BTS? Every year we produce leaflets specific to each of our schools. These are distributed to new parents by the schools in preparation for the new school year. They introduce our business and explain the services we offer. They also include a price list for all of the specific school uniform parents need to buy. Do you utilise social media to engage with customers? We don’t currently use social media but setting up a Twitter account is on the to-do list for this year. Most of our schools use Twitter regularly and I think it will be a good way to connect with them. What channels do you sell across? The main focus of our business is our shop in Beaconsfield and most of our business is done through face-to-face selling. Our website has been up and running for three years and is proving to be increasingly popular. However, for BTS, most complete new uniforms are sold in-store rather than online. We find parents are more likely to use the website for top-up orders where they already know what size they need to buy. Have you witnessed any changes in customer buying habits? We always recommend to customers that they come into the shop early to avoid the inevitable last minute BTS rush. Some do listen and plan ahead, but by far our busiest days are still after the August bank holiday. Are you seeing any trends in school uniform? As we mainly sell quite traditional private school uniforms, trends aren’t always noticeable to us. However, the introduction of skorts as part of girls’ PE kit has been a big trend in the last few years and girls all seem to prefer them to the traditional games skirts. Do you have any sizing issues with uniform? Every year there are always some children who need uniform that is bigger or smaller than the sizes that we typically sell. We always try our best to source uniform for them so they can look the same as their classmates and not feel different. Are you trialling anything new for BTS 2016? We are introducing more stationery into the store. We are using Helix/ Maped products to make up pencil cases full of the stationery items required on the school lists. We think that having exactly what pupils need, made up for them as one item, will be helpful for busy parents who won’t then need to go on a separate stationery shopping trip. Is there anything suppliers could do to better support your business? For the most part, I find our suppliers very helpful. The only thing that I feel could be improved is to have more honesty when things are going wrong. For example, if a delivery is going to be significantly late, I would rather know exactly how late than not be told the whole story. That way, it is easier to manage customers’ expectations and keep our schools informed of delays. What services do you offer to make your business more competitive? We provide a free of charge deliver-to-school service to some of our schools every week during term time. Next day delivery is available for most of our web and mail orders. We also offer a very popular name tape sewing service. What’s your forecast for BTS 2016 sales? We believe sales this BTS will be at a similar level to last year. Any plans for the business? After this BTS, we will be looking to invest in our own embroidery machine. We hope this will make our business more efficient and give us more flexibility. —
LUKE CONOD FOUNDER, SCHOOL UNIFORM SHOP, HEREFORD How was BTS 2015? We had a very good year. The implementation of a number of new systems to improve customer service were very successful. We also spent time reinforcing what we stand for to our customers and school partners by promoting our ethical stance and our values. This, combined with excellent customer service, helped increase sales by just over 11 per cent. Are you making any changes to improve the way you work for BTS 2016? We have invested significantly in our online presence; we now have a dedicated colleague working on digital marketing and all our bespoke products are now available online. Our biggest change for 2016 though, is that we now donate five per cent of all our sales on bespoke uniform towards educational and schools projects in Cambodia and Nepal. How do you market BTS? We use social media, our store and transactional websites to market to our customers, which works well alongside local and regional PR. We also use more traditional leaflets and price lists, which go out to all new students across our partner schools What social media platforms do you use to engage with customers? We use Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. We have been using these for a number of years and they work well for keeping in touch with our partner schools, parents and students. What channels do you sell across? We sell from our store in Hereford, a concession in Labels Outlet Shopping in Ross on Wye and also from our transactional website www.schooluniformshop.co.uk. Sales of bespoke products are performing well in both Hereford and Ross on Wye so we have just added these to our website and the early signs are good. Basic plain product sales are challenging, but we have started to see slight improvements over the past 12 months. Are you witnessing any trends in school uniform? We are noticing a trend towards smarter uniform again, with a resurgence in the blazer and tie for senior schools. Schools are also moving towards more specific school skirts and of course, the boys’ slim fit trouser is really selling well. Do you have any sizing issues with uniform? The suppliers support us well in these areas, so we don’t have any sizing issues. Are you trialling anything new for BTS 2016? We are adding David Luke’s Eco range to our website for summer 2016, which we are very excited about. Is there anything suppliers could do to better support your business? We work closely with all our suppliers and find the support we get is excellent. What services do you offer to make your business more competitive? We offer an in-store name tape service where customers can pay a small extra charge and we will heat press their child’s name onto all of their garments before they leave the store, which has proved very popular. In 2015, we launched our new in-store ordering system so that if an item is out of stock, we email the customer when the item is back in and ready for collection or deliver it to their house or school free of charge. What’s your forecast for BTS 2016 sales? I believe we will have a strong 2016 and have forecast a 7–9 per cent growth, predominantly through the bespoke products. Any plans for the business? We are looking at bringing some of our embroidery in-house to reduce lead times to the stores and wholesale customers for small runs. —
JUNE/JULY 2016 - 58
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NAMES & NUMBERS: A aden + anais 020 7801 6279 www.adenandanais.com • Agatha Ruiz de la Prada 0034 9655 46899 www.tuttopicollo.es • Angel Maternity 01993 359897 www.angelmaternity.co.uk • Annaliv 020 8144 2118 www.annaliv.co.uk • Arsène et les Pipelettes 0033 5243 35780 www.arseneetlespipelettes.com B Bambini & Me 01732 240662 www.bambiniandme.com • Beb & Ooo hello@bebandooo.co.uk www.bebandooo.co.uk • Blade & Rose 07920 752260 www.bladeandrose.co.uk • Bubbaroo 0013 0028 2766 www.bubbaroo.co.uk C Carmen Taberner 07450 893045 www.carmentaberner.com • CCCHU 00852 9418 1145 www.ccchu.com • C’est Moi 0065 67430760 www.cest-moi.com • Cóndor 020 3286 1451 www.condor.es D David Luke 0161 2727474 www.davidluketrade.com • Deena London 07961 841054 www.deenalondon.com • Disney Boutique 01442 289898 www.travis.co.uk • Dotty Dungarees 07769 973579 www.dottydungarees.com E Elizabeth Hurley Beach 020 7795 1390 www.elizabethhurley.com F Foque 0034 9863 66048 www.foque.es • French King 0033 142330113 www.french-king.fr • F:RG & Form Sweden 01235 848192 www.northlightdesign.co.uk • Frugi 01326 558462 www.frugiwholesale.com G Good Bubble 020 3781 7071 www.goodbubble.co.uk • Green People 01403 740350 www.greenpeople.co.uk • Guess 0208 740 4097 www.brand-stable.com H Holly Hastie 07957 233834 www.hollyhastie.com • Hultaj 07533 197443 I Initiative www.initiative.co.uk 020 7663 7000 J Jam London 07990 570819 www.jam-boutique.co.uk K KIDD-IN London 07583 907558 www.kiddinnlondon.co.uk • Kissy Kissy 01442 248099 www.kissykissyonline.com • Kokoso 07949 314246 www.kokoso.co.uk L Lara & Ollie 07968 210479 www.laraandollie.co.uk • Lilly + Sid 07985 162337 www.lillyandsid.com • Little Herbs 01373 469996 www.littleherbs.co.uk • Little Lord & Lady 01484 917597 www.littlelordandlady.co.uk • Little Wardrobe London 020 8061 2062
www.littlewardrobelondon.co.uk • Le Mu 07796 173771 www.le-mu. co.uk • Love Mae 01628 820082 www.scandi-chic.com • Lullabébé 07927 897420 www.lullabebe.com M Mama Designs 01993 359897 www.angelmaternity.co.uk • Marton Mills 0113 284 3364 www.martonmills.com • Matchstick Monkey 07818 416939 www.matchstickmonkey.com • Milla 01825 733044 www. millaonline.co.uk • Milou & Pilou 0034 606 971 511 www.milouandpilou. com • Mimosa Kids 07910 491067 www.mimosakids.com • Minijammies 07779 146051 www.cyberjammies.co.uk • Mini La Mode 02380 898 023 www.mini-la-mode.com • Miss Princess and Little Frog 0032 4778 67623 www.missprincessandlittlefrog.com • Monikako Kids 0034 6775 17671 www.monikako.com • Mothers Love Fashion 07811 436714 www.motherslovefashion.com N Nod 07825 567808 www.nodlondon.com • Noodoll 020 7253 1890 www.noodoll.com • Noook 07513 250198 www.noook.eu O Oh…My! Kidswear 020 7281 4141 www.citilites.co.uk • Owa Yurika www.owayurika.com P Patito Bebé 0034 6160 78489 www.patitobebe.com • Pehr 01628 820082 www.scandi-chic.com • PlanToys 07870 132595 www.littleconcepts.co.uk • Platypus Australia 0061 4142 94141 www.platypusaustralia.com • Poco Rosso 07876 522341 www.bohohemp.com R Rachel Riley 020 7935 7007 www.rachelriley.co.uk www.rockthegoatfashion.com S Satra 01536 410000 www.satra.co.uk • Scrubbingtons 07766 441907 www.scrubbingtons.com • Sleepy Doe 07877 455084 www.sleepydoe. com • Snoozebaby 0203 744 1056 www.littlesaints.co.uk • Squidge & Pip 07867 805559 www.squidgeandpip.com • Storksak 020 7284 2252 www.storksak.co.uk • SwimFin 01244 398692 www.swimfin.co.uk T The Bonnie Mob 01273 227779 www.bonniebaby.co.uk • Tutto Piccolo 0034 9655 46899 www.tuttopicollo.es W Walk Moses 07435 304570 www.walkmoses.com Z Zadig & Voltaire 020 8964 8605 www.groupecwf.com • Zoocchini 0845 653 1493 www.potwellstrading.co.uk JUNE/JULY 2016 - 59
DIRECTORY | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
ACCESSORIES
BALLOON BIJOUX Hair Accessories, Jewellery, Bags, Purses, Belts, Braces, Sunglasses, Fairy range and School accessories. For a free brochure: Tel: 0208 207 2500 or email: info@balloonbijoux.co.uk www.balloonbijoux.co.uk
DISTRIBUTOR WANTED
SCHOOL TIES
New organic label with a unique concept are looking for a distributor in the UK.
TO ADVERTISE IN THE CWB DIRECTORY PLEASE CALL MICHELE ON
01484 848337
The Telegraph(UK) March 2015 “I am impressed by this organic babywear brand”.
OR EMAIL MICHELE @RAS-PUBLISHING.COM
Tel: +31(0)30 7514025 Email: natalie@daddyproof.nl www.daddyproofkidswear.com
SCHOOLWEAR
AGENCY
ORCHARD AGENCY Chris, Carol, Lisa & Ray are the team behind Orchard, a leading second generation childrens clothing agency in the UK, with expertise in London and the South East. Orchard Agency, 28 Fourth Avenue, Frinton-on-Sea, Essex CO13 9DX Tel: 01255 674301 Email: chris@orchardagency.co.uk carol&ray@orchardagency.co.uk
BABY & KIDS SHOES
CWB BUSINESS DIRECTORY WELDON AGENCIES SCHOOL TIES
TIE & SCARF COMPANY
The specialist in
SCHOOL TIES plus badges
VANHUIZEN AGENCIES
TO ADVERTISE IN THE CWB DIRECTORY PLEASE CALL MICHELE ON
01484 848337 OR EMAIL MICHELE@ RAS-PUBLISHING.COM
Established for over 25 years, two generations, covering all areas of the UK. Representing leading brands from Europe and Canada, catering for boys and girls 0 to 16 years. Styling from contemporary to traditional. FUN & FUN, LE CHIC, DEUX PAR DEUX, NO NO, BOBOLI, FOQUE, SARDON, LARANJINHA, ITTY LONDON Weldon Agencies, Southport, Merseyside Tel: 01704 576033 Email: barrieweldon@btconnect.com, andrewweldon@btconnect.com www.weldonagencies.co.uk
Warth Industrial Park, Warth Road, Bury BL9 9NB Tel: 0161 761 5151 Fax: 0161 762 0202 Email: tieandscarf@chaytow.com Web: www.tieandscarf.co.uk
Van Huizen Agencies is a young, fresh and vibrant agency, for the more discerning retailer requiring beautiful and unique collections. OILILY CHILDRENSWEAR, LIONS OF PORCHES, NOA NOA MINIATURE COLLECTION Unit 1, First Floor, Paragon Works, Wilsthorpe Road, Long Eaton, Nottingham NG10 3JW. Tel: 07967 560633 Email: franck@vanhuizenagencies.co.uk www.vanhuizenagencies.co.uk
JUNE/JULY 2016 - 61
TALKING POINT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
LIZ PILGRIM Curator of Bubble Bump and editor of Maternity Buyer This season’s edition of Bubble London will see the launch of Bubble Bump, a showcase of maternity and nursery product curated by Liz Pilgrim. Something of a maternity guru, Pilgrim’s expertise spans retail, marketing, brand consultancy and the founding of trade website maternitybuyer.com. CWB quizzes her on the concept behind Bump and what visitors can expect from Bubble’s newest arrival. Laura Turner: You previously owned the baby and maternity shop, Babye. What’s the story? Liz Pilgrim: After having my first baby and discovering there were no maternity and baby shops in my local area, I decided to launch my own. I opened Babye in Ealing in 2003 following a successful career in kids’ marketing. It was a beautiful, award-winning shop that quickly gained a high profile, as did our online shop, and that was in the days before brands even had their own online presence. Sadly, sales were badly affected by the economic crash in 2008, and in 2011, the Babye store was destroyed in the Ealing riots. With my 10-year lease up for renewal, and the shop having lost its magic, I decided to close. LT: You then became an agent? LP: Yes, a few of the brands I sold in the shop approached me to be their agent and I decided to change my focus from retail to wholesaling. LT: Where did your passion for the maternity sector come from? LP: Like many consumers, I had no idea about the maternity industry, or its products, until I was pregnant myself. You think you can get away without buying maternitywear and in some ways you can, but having good quality, well-fitting clothing and underwear is really an absolute must. When pregnant, you’re coming to terms with your changing body shape, so to have clothes that make you feel and look good is important. LT: Can you tell me about your website, maternitybuyer.com? LP: Having built up a retail database being an agent and being constantly approached by brands needing an agent, I identified a gap for a maternity industry resource and content hub in the UK. Maternity Buyer provides news and brand information as well as a directory of brands and services to connect brands with buyers. My long term plan is to make it interactive. LT: You also consult for brands? LP: Yes, utilising my expertise in marketing, retailing and selling, I’ve provided consultancy services to brands either wanting to launch products, enter the UK market for the first time or who simply need marketing expertise. LT: What training and workshops do you offer? LP: I’ve lectured at the local university,
inspiring would-be entrepreneurs; I’ve run workshops within local business networking groups and I provide a one-day course for anyone wanting to open a shop, either one-toone or in small groups. I’d have loved to have done a course like mine before opening my own shop: it’s a huge learning curve opening as an independent. LT: What triggered the idea for Bump? LP: When I first opened Babye, there were lots of maternity brand agents and showrooms, but with a declining industry and many boutiques closing, most of the agents disappeared. With a resurgence in the industry and many retail buyers not being able to afford – financially or time-wise – to visit European shows, I felt the need for a maternity and baby show in London. I wanted to collaborate, and Bubble London had, like myself, also identified that a maternity section could work in the UK. LT: How have you applied your expertise to Bump’s creation? LP: I’ve got a lot of contacts and, having the unique all-round experience of being a marketer, independent buyer and agent, I know what I’d be looking for: a mix of maternitywear and new and unique products to stand out from the competition. LT: What is the criteria for exhibitors? LP: We’re focusing on high quality brands of maternity or nursery product with a point of difference. Bump will be a platform for both British brands looking to showcase products, and international brands hoping to reach the UK and Europe. Bump will be in its own branded area of Bubble, so it will be easy for visitors to navigate. LT: Why should kidswear retailers consider branching into maternity and nursery? LP: Look at this incremental revenue stream: with 800,000 expectant mothers every year and the birth rate set to increase over the next 10 years, I’d say kidswear retailers cannot ignore this consumer group. Being pregnant, especially for the first time, is such a special experience where there’s the inbuilt excuse to indulge. Sell a decent maternity outfit to an expectant mum and you’re likely to gain her loyalty for her baby and nursery choices. In a tough marketing environment, retailers should be doing all they can with the ‘bump pound’.
LT: What are the core maternity and nursery products retailers should buy into? LP: A strong selection of basics at good price points work well, but also having a range of clothing for special occasions can give an edge on high street maternity offerings. Maternity clothing that can be used for nursing also gives a good USP. Seamless nursing bras, maternity skincare, nursing accessories such as muslins, baby change bags, hospital bag products and layette are all good options. Breastfeeding is another area of growth, with many mums wanting to feed discreetly, so having nursingwear or accessories is an area retailers can really respond to. There has also been huge interest in the benefits of baby slings and carriers: where space is limited, retailers should consider this as a product range, with many brands offering training for in-store demonstrations. LT: How do you rate the UK maternity and nursery market? LP: It has seen decline over the last 10-years, but we’re now seeing growth. More high street retailers seem to be increasing their stock keeping units (SKUs) and the independents need to address this and make sure they don’t lose out on sales. I think we’ll see more products manufactured under licence, whether that’s through celebrity endorsement or design, and I predict some online retailers will start opening their own shops, too. Great Little Trading Company opened its doors for the first time in April and I anticipate more of the same. JUNE/JULY 2016 - 62
Tel: 07961841054 Email: info@deenalondon.com www.deenalondon.com
Summers here and kids just want to be outside Clear skies and sunshine are the perfect recipe for summer fun, just add a pair of funky RAP sandals for a really cool summer. With their sturdy and supportive construction a RAP sandal is both comfortable and cooling for their little feet. Come and see the collection at Bubble on the 19th-20th June stand C24 at the plaza or make an appointment with Franck@arautorap.com or call 07967 560633
RAP‌ for your little eco warriors