WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk JULY 2016/ ISSUE 257/ £6.95
NEW ORDER SPRING/SUMMER 17 BUYER’S GUIDE The trends, looks and brands that define the season ENTREPRENEURIAL SPIRIT Exclusive interview with Riani’s founders and their vision for future growth BREAKING THE MOULD How Sewn Agency has risen from niche player to leading light in less than a decade
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DÜSSELDORF CPD · HALLE 30 ·1.07 Partners in Fashion Ltd. Chris and Monika Bartscht 16 a Newman Street GB - London W1T 1PB Phone: +44-207-636 4207 Fax: +44-207-436 2243 E-Mail: michele@partnersinfashion.co.uk
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FASHION NEWS
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BRAND GUIDE
The key labels not to miss for s/s 17
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SIX WEEKS OF SUMMER
Young fashion in the spotlight
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CITY LIGHTS
We take a look at what Scoop & the City has in store
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MODA FIRST GLANCE
A sneak peak at what next month’s edition has to offer
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Expert e-commerce advice
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With Shaftsbury’s Samantha Bain-Mollison
EDITOR’S COMMENT
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The other side of womenswear
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TALKING POINT
Your views on the issues shaping the industry
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With Sewn Agency’s Lis Eriksson
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STYLE FILE
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RIVIERA CHIC
The best nautical trend pieces to get in store now
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SELF-MADE SUCCESS
Riani’s strategy for long-term growth
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THE BUYER’S GUIDE
A comprehensive round-up of the season ahead
FRONT COVER: ROCK AND ROLL T-SHIRT – CHASER 020 7349 9668 BLACK PUV SKIRT – HALLHUBER 0800 850 6000 BRALET – CHASER 020 7349 9668
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MODA UK August 7th - 9th 2016 - Stand T31
www.michaelalouisa.com
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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Writer Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com
Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths
Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323
WWB is published 9 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2016 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.
So the UK has voted for Brexit in a historic referendum that will change the country’s status and relationship with the rest of Europe for generations to come. And it has divided the nation in the process. The run-up to the vote on 23 June, and certainly the period since, has amplified the level of uncertainty about the future: that much is certain. And as everyone knows, an uncertain political and economic climate is poison for economy and trade. The majority of business leaders and retailers, both from the fashion sector and other industries, had been against ‘Leave’, and their reaction to the decision has been one of shock and apprehension, with their main concerns centred around the weakened pound, as well as the wider political, economic and multi-lateral effects. The British Retail Consortium (BRC) has emphasised in a statement that keeping the cost of goods down for consumers and providing certainty for businesses must dominate the political agenda from here on, while leading employers’ association CBI also urged for strong and calm leadership to bring back a level of stability. This was mirrored by the British Independent Retailer Association (Bira), which called for a cautious and measured approach to the exit negotiations to keep the turmoil and potential damage to the economy and trade to a minimum.
Whether you voted ‘In’ or ‘Out’, one thing that is sure is that nobody really knows what the future holds and how our trade with Europe and other key countries such as the USA and China will be affected long-term. The outcome remains to be seen, and, I’m sure, will be monitored closely by both camps over the coming months and years, as it will be by our European neighbours. It will be the duty of the new Prime Minister and Government to be clear and transparent throughout the process to achieve the best possible outcome and to leave the UK’s international standing intact. Whichever side you were on, how are you affected by the vote and what implications – good or bad – do you feel for your business? We would love to hear your views, so do tweet us or drop me a line. On a less controversial note, we are once again in the midst of a new season, and as always we are kicking off s/s 17 in style with our comprehensive guide to the key looks, brands, news and new launches. This summer season seems to have its mojo back, with strong collections and trends, as well as new labels coming through – always a good thing, as at the end of the day, fashion thrives on newness and fresh product. I wish you all a successful buying season and do let us know the shows you visited and the labels and trends you picked up.
WWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group PLC company
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK OR EMAIL ISABELLA@RAS-PUBLISHING.CO.UK FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @WWBMAGAZINE, FACEBOOK WWB MAGAZINE AND PINTEREST WWBMAGAZINE
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INDIES REACT TO BREXIT VOTE After shock and dismay, pragmatism takes over among independent retailers following last month’s EU Referendum.
Independent retailers have expressed shock and dismay over last month’s referendum vote to leave the European Union, a straw poll by WWB has revealed. However, as the new reality sinks in, many have adopted a pragmatic view and are calling on political leaders to swiftly bring about stability and clarity to safeguard their businesses. In London, Pamela Shiffer, owner of the eponymous Primrose Hill store, expects prices to go up and the current political and economic uncertainty to have a knock-on effect on trade. “I was completely shocked, like all of my peers, and personally I think it’s a mistake. However, now that the democratic process is complete, we have to get on with the withdrawal,” she says. “As for retailers like myself, I’m still unclear as to how it will affect us; however one thing is for sure, unless the UK can reignite its manufacturing industry, the cost of European imports on such items like clothing will go up and have a knock-on effect on the end consumer. In the short term, political peace and stability should be the government’s number one concern, then the rest will hopefully follow,” she adds. This is mirrored by Alexandra Boardman, owner of Alexandra’s in Keswick. “From a personal view, I was disappointed about leaving the EU. I voted to remain after having listened to the predictions by key economists and the Bank of England. Also, we are more secure in the world as a part of the EU rather than on our own. I think there are two main issues; firstly, the uncertainty caused by the political
instability of needing a new Prime Minister and the dissent in the main opposition party, and secondly when/if/how Article 50 will be invoked, especially since the main European countries are demanding a quick answer. The relatively shortterm political unrest and potential general election will need to be addressed quickly to stabilise our economy and I envisage that this will be resolved in a few short months,” she says. “Invoking Article 50 is more complex and could take a few years of ‘negotiations’ and living in limbo, which will definitely affect business. The media has a critical role to play in maintaining consumer spending. They have incredible power and are able to talk the nation in or out of a recession.” Over in Wilmslow, Joanna Davies, owner of Black White Denim, also admits to feeling fearful about the future; however, a sense of pragmatism and British ‘Keep on’ spirit is taking over. “Along with everyone else I’m feeling very uncertain about the future. Our business launched in the depths of recession and has faced numerous challenges over the last six years, so I feel pretty used to dealing with adversity,” she offers. “But far from looking at this negatively, I’m approaching our situation with positivity. In the short term I think shoppers will be mindful of their spending but won’t stop altogether; they’ll buy close to home to avoid exchange rate fluctuations and I’m hoping they will support the businesses on their doorsteps in these fragile times. Who knows what will happen next, but as far as I’m concerned, it’s business as usual.”
FOR DAILY NEWS, ANALYSIS AND UPDATES, VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
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NEWS IN BRIEF
GERRY WEBER REPORTS SALES RISE
RONEN CHEN LAUNCHES PLUS SIZE STYLES
German fashion group Gerry Weber has reported a sales increase of 2.5 per cent in the first half of 2015/16 to €443.6m, following the implementation of the company’s ‘Fit4Growth’ realignment programme. The first 21 retail stores have been closed, while the Gerry Weber core brands (Gerry Weber, Taifun and Samoon) contributed €352.0m to consolidated sales revenues and Munich-based subsidiary Hallhuber contributed €91.7m. The Gerry Weber core retail segment contributed €206.4m. Compared to the first half of the prior year, Gerry Weber core wholesale revenues shrank by 26.3 per cent to €145.6m, reflecting wholesale customers’ continuing cautious pre-order behaviour as well as the effects of reclassifying wholesale spaces as company managed retail spaces. Nevertheless, the gross margin for both Gerry Weber core segments in retail and wholesale improved from 58.5 per cent to 60.9 per cent.
Israeli fashion brand Ronen Chen is extending the availability of selected styles to plus sizes up to a size 26 for s/s 17. The move has been fuelled by increasing customer demand for a wider selection of sizes, as well as the continued success and growth of the brand, with wholesale orders for s/s 16 and a/w 16 having doubled compared to comparative seasons. The brand is represented in the UK by Retail Brand Connection, and managing director Howard Ross confirms a positive and strong growth forecast for s/s 17, with the brand embarking on a repositioning of its customer base to a more sophisticated and contemporary woman. The range features natural fabrics, linen and lightweight fabrics with comfortable flowing silhouettes, as well as some structured styles. The brand will be showing its full collection at next month’s Moda Woman.
ACCESSORY BRAND BHOID SET FOR EXPANSION British accessories brand Bhoid is planning a wholesale push this season following a soft launch to the market in September. The brand specialises in contemporary, luxury accessories inspired by the British country lifestyle and is targeting independent boutiques across the UK. All of the products are made in Britain, employing traditional skills and manufacturing methods. Bhoid currently produces a collection of 90 x 90 cm silk square scarves, and range of umbrellas and a range of belts, with another line of skinny scarves about to be added to the product mix. Founded by Stephanie Boyd, whose background is in business operations, the brand is looking to double its current stockist base to 20 accounts this season.
BENETTON GROUP ACQUIRES BENETTON KOREA Italian fashion house Benetton has acquired Benetton Korea as part of a reorganisation of its global structures. The transition is part of the group’s refocus and relaunch programme, which aims to increase competitiveness and growth of its two brands: United Colors of Benetton and Sisley. With Benetton’s commercial presence currently concentrated in Seoul, South Korea is the brand’s most important market outside of Italy. NEW OPENINGS FOR RETAIL DEVELOPMENT This summer, River Island and Peacocks will open within the 162,500 sq ft retail and leisure development Flemingate based in Beverley, Hull. The stores will bring a combined 17,000 sq ft of new brands to the centre, which already houses the likes of Debenhams, H&M, Wilkinson, Poundland, Trespass and Guest & Philips. Peacocks will open at the end of this month, taking 7,100 sq ft of space, while River Island will occupy 10,066 sq ft and will open in August. SERENITY & GRACE EXPANDS OFFER Exclusive online department store Serenity and Grace has added a further 10 brands to its mix, taking the overall offer of brands to 23. Having launched five months ago, the store is continuing its rapid growth, specialising in fashion, accessories and beauty brands with a focus on new and unknown labels at affordable prices. DAISY LONDON LAUNCHES DESIGN COLLABORATION Daisy London has launched its second collaboration with presenter Laura Whitmore. The Laura Whitmore x Daisy London range builds on the success of the debut range last season, and went on sale at the end of last month.
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NEWS IN BRIEF
OBLIQUE MAKES UK DEBUT
CHRISTOPHER KANE LAUNCHES E-COMMERCE
Italian fashion brand Oblique is launching to the UK for s/s 17 through Joanna Edwards agency. The brand specialises in separates as well as its signature knitwear, with an emphasis on luxurious fabrics, texture, colour and innovative design. Having debuted its first collection in Milan in 2009 and shown at Paris Fashion Week since 2010, the brand is based in Bologna and is a family-run business. Whilst the collection features dresses, trousers, shorts, skirts, tops and cover-ups, knitwear is at the heart of the range, with an avant-garde styling that suits a wide range of customer. Sitting alongside the likes of Sarah Pacini, Crea Concept, Marc Cain and Riani, the brand covers every occasion, from holiday to cocktail parties, through weddings to races, and will appeal to both younger and more mature women thanks to its versatile looks. The brand is targeting independent boutiques, aiming for a good market representation while also adhering to the exclusivity of the label.
British designer brand Christopher Kane has launched its first e-commerce website at the end of last month, creating a global online flagship store at www.christopherkane.com. The launch of the e-commerce site follows the opening of Christopher Kane’s bricks-andmortar flagship store in February 2015, and creates a further destination for customers to experience the label – from inspirations to closeup details of the collection – and to shop across all product classifications, offering a seamless omnichannel experience. Christopher Kane partnered with Farfetch Black & White, the white-label solution from e-commerce brand Farfetch, to create a strong technical build and functionality and completely customised brand experience, as well as offering key functionalities such as global shipping, multiple currencies and the future launch of multilingual sites.
LAURÈL APPOINTS FOUR MARKETING German premium womenswear brand Laurèl has appointed fashion agency Four Marketing as its UK and Ireland representative from s/s 17. The new appointment aims to effectively boost the brand’s presence in the UK and help the label embark on the next stage of expansion through key accounts. “We look forward to working with Four Marketing, and are confident we have found the ideal partner to enhance our market position in the future and unlock important strategic sales partnerships,” says Laurèl CEO Dirk Reichert. “Our ultrafeminine collection is the perfect fit for customers in the UK and Ireland who appreciate fashion to match every occasion.” Four Marketing is a full-service agency with a diverse client list and extensive experience in defining brands from the premium, luxury and streetwear sectors, from small-scale boutique brands to large fashion houses. The agency successfully represents an array of prestigious international labels including M Missoni, Velvet by Graham & Spencer, Tiger of Sweden, 7 For All Mankind and Woolrich.
STELLA MCCARTNEY LAUNCHES MENSWEAR LINE Stella McCartney is launching her first menswear collection for s/s 17. The new collection will take a modern approach to menswear, encouraging seasonless wardrobing, while adhering to the brand’s responsible and sustainable ethics. The range includes fur free and leather free apparel and accessories that will be available at select Stella McCartney boutiques, online at stellamccartney.com, as well as at key wholesale accounts worldwide. NEW FAIRTRADE RANGE FOR CONTINENTAL CLOTHING COMPANY Continental Clothing Company, one of Britain’s largest wholesale T-shirt manufacturers, is set to launch a new range of Fairtrade organic cotton T-shirts and hooded sweatshirts under its new label Fair Share. The collection is made from Fairtrade cotton grown by members of Pratima Agro Fairtrade cooperative in Orissa, India. The farmers are investing Fairtrade certification premiums in projects to enable women to build businesses and market goods so they have their own independent income. It is expected that Pratima will earn over £9,000 in Fairtrade Premiums per year on top of the Fairtrade price and organic premium thanks to the move. SDEA LAUNCHES NEW RETAIL DISPLAY DIRECTORY The latest SDEA Retail Display Directory 2016/17 has been launched, showcasing over 100 manufacturers and suppliers of retail display and thousands of products and services for retail interiors. Categories covered include shopfittings, displays, POS, POP, lighting, signage, visual merchandising and other retail services. To order a copy or more information call 01883 348911 or visit www.shopdisplay.org.
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NEWS IN BRIEF
TRUE RELIGION UNVEILS NEW RETAIL CONCEPT
BOUTIQUE 1 OPENS DEBUT LONDON STORE
US premium denim brand True Religion has opened a new retail concept in London on Carnaby Street, the brand’s first international flagship store. The 2,505 sq ft store is centred around a reinvention of the brand’s iconic denim bar that showcases the latest styles for men and women. The bi-level location will appeal to a savvy, digitally connected consumer through an omnichannel approach, merging the benefits of e-commerce with the in store shopping experience, with less product on the sales floor and digital support through iPads and touch screens, as well as the new Band technology to access product from around the world. The store is purposely designed to be a more intimate space than other flagship locations. True Religion currently runs two freestanding stores and an outlet in London, and partners with wholesale retailers such as Selfridges and Harrods. The store opening marks 96 full-price stores and 50 outlet locations globally for the brand.
Dubai based leading luxury fashion retailer Boutique 1 has opened its debut London store. Situated at 127-128 Sloane Street, the 12,000 sq ft store extends over two floors and includes areas dedicated to ready-to-wear, accessories, eveningwear, beachwear, fine jewellery, gifting and books, forming an integral part of the redevelopment of the Sloane Street area by Cadogan Estates. “We are very proud to open our first London store in Sloane Street, one of the premier shopping destinations in the world. With our unique approach to fashion and emphasis on luxury service, we feel that Boutique 1 brings a fresh point of view to the area,” says Ziad Matta, cofounder and co-CEO of Boutique 1 Group. The store features London designers Erdem, Peter Pilotto, Roland Mouret and Roksanda; as well as other coveted designers including Proenza Schouler, Missoni, Elie Saab, Rosetta Getty, Rosie Assouline, Rochas, Anthony Vaccarello, Monse and Spencer Vladimir (pictured).
NEW RETAIL SIGNINGS AT BLUEWATER Womenswear chain Mint Velvet has launched its first UK standalone store in a non-high street location at Bluewater, Kent. Located on the lower Guildhall opposite Reiss, the 1,900 sq ft boutique holds the brand’s latest womenswear collections, accessories and footwear. Joining Mint Velvet is US accessory and ready-to-wear label Michael Kors, which takes up residence in a 2,800 sq ft boutique on the lower Guildhall. The move is part of Bluewater co-owner Land Securities’ strategy of creating a series of unique statement stores at the shopping mall. The Michael Kors store, situated adjacent to Aspinal and Hackett, will feature the brand’s complete product ranges including MICHAEL Michael Kors, as well as handbags, small leather goods, watches, jewellery, eyewear, and a selection of fragrances.
KIT AND ACE JOINS SEVEN DIALS Global lifestyle brand Kit and Ace is joining the retail ranks at Seven Dials this month, with a new 1,700 sq ft store on Monmouth Street, in the heart of London’s West End. The move marks the latest addition to the Seven Dials retail offer and the next step for the brand’s growing presence in London. Kit and Ace was founded in 2014 and trades in nearly 60 locations across North America, Australia, the UK and Japan. The brand specialises in apparel made from proprietary fabrics, like Technical Cashmere and Technical Silk, that performs for everyday wear. HOUSE OF FRASER APPOINTS NEW CCO House of Fraser has appointed David Walmsley as Chief Customer Officer. Walmsley has over 20 years’ experience in the retail and digital space and most recently, was director at M&S Digital, with overall responsibility for Marks & Spencer’s global digital business unit, covering all aspects of its digital transformation. He joined M&S in 2011 from Dixons Retail Group, where he was Director of eCommerce. Prior to joining Dixons, he was Head of Web Selling and Customer Services for John Lewis. MARKET DEBUT FOR FOXGLOVE CLOTHING New UK T-shirt brand Foxglove Clothing has made its market debut, offering T-shirts for the modern woman with premium materials. The brand offers fashion independents the opportunity to label T-shirts under their boutique’s name, with T-shirts currently available in black, white and navy and sizes XS to XL. The shirts are manufactured in the UK and Italy and use predominantly modal and cotton mixes, with varying sleeve and neckline options available. For more information, visit www.foxgloveclothing.com.
SS17 come and be excited Henry Wood House I London I W1W 7FA 18th July - 5th August The Place I Manchester I M1 2TP 15th August - 19th August Toll Manor I East Sussex I TN22 4DU 11th July - 9th September
angelsneverdie
T +44 1825 733330
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W mdainternational.co.uk
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Backstage
The events, campaigns and parties not to miss 01/ LONDON CELEBRATES QUEEN’S 90TH London’s Carnaby, Seven Dials and Berwick Street Soho locations joined in the Queen’s 90th birthday celebrations last month with a host of in-store activities across the streets’ retail stores, events and a giant Carnaby Union Jack 3D flag adorned with 30,000 shimmer discs. The flag will remain in situ for the rest of the year as a reminder of Her Majesty’s special day. 02/ GRADUATE FASHION WEEK ENDS ON A HIGH Graduate Fashion Week 2016 came to a close with a gala evening held at the Old Truman Brewery in East London last month. Top industry names including Christopher Bailey, Dame Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler were in attendance to celebrate the finale of the four-day showcase, which also marked the 25th anniversary of the event. A number of awards were presented throughout the showcase, one of which included The Christopher Bailey Gold Award, which was presented by the Burberry CEO himself to Hazel Symons from De Montfort University (pictured), who receives £10,000 for her collection of monochrome pieces that feature bolted seams rather than sewn.
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03/ BAG LAUNCH INVESTS IN KENYAN COMMUNITIES New accessories brand Maasai Colour, which recently launched on crowdfunding website Kickstarter, is creating opportunities for deprived communities in Kenya. Proceeds from the label, which was established in 2014, contribute towards a pioneering micro-finance scheme helping entrepreneurs to bring stability to their communities through starting their own businesses. Four new high quality ranges have been created, aimed at consumers who want distinct design with ethical credentials. 04/ FTFC CELEBRATES 160 YEARS Lord Stone of Blackheath hosted an evening reception at The House of Lords last month, celebrating over 160 years of the Fashion & Textile Children’s Fund and its commitment to helping families in need who are employed in the UK fashion and textile industry. Guests included representatives from the retail and manufacturing sectors, including Steve Rowe (M&S), Liza Webb (Jaeger), as well as MPs and charities including Gingerbread, Turn2Us and Buttle UK. Top representatives from trade organisations, including UKFT, and the British Fashion Council’s CEO Caroline Rush were also present, alongside FTCT stakeholders and beneficiaries. (Pictured from left: Nigel Oddy (House of Fraser), Steve Rowe, Lord Stone of Blackheath, Anna Pangbourne (FTCT director). 02/
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See us at Pure London, 24th - 26th July 2016 Elisa Cavaletti - Stand M48 Isay - Stand M58 Leo & Ugo - Stand M56 Joy Redfern UK Email: joyredfern@me.com Tel: 07876 333397 Bellina Ireland Email: sales@bellinacreations.ie Tel: 00353 1429 5440
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Showing at:
RBC Showroom 11 - 20 July | The Place Aparthotel, Ducie Street, Manchester, M1 2TP (Suite 601: 11 - 15 July, Suite 608: 16 – 20 July)
22 July - 12 Aug | The Gallery, 6 Charlotte Place, Fitzrovia, London W1T 1SG
Moda Birmingham 7-9 Aug | Stand V51 | NEC Birmingham Contact Howard Ross:
+44(0) 7795-007528 / +44(0) 7758-689110
Showing dates: 23rd July - 9th September Crea Concept UK Ltd 34/35 Eastcastle Street 1st Floor London W1W 8DW Tel: 020 7436 0631 www.creaconcept.com paulette@creaconcept.co.uk jade@creaconcept.co.uk
Celebrating 40 years of Excellence
For U.K & Ireland enquiries please contact: Apt Collections t: 00 44 207 580 3202 email: nigel@aptcollections.ltd.uk claudia@aptcollections.ltd.uk
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Talking Point
Your views on the issues shaping the industry Let’s park the parking problem
HUGO DEANE Co-director of fashion distribution agency Love Brands Ltd. We all know how tough it is for the independent retailer to compete in today’s marketplace. Much like the British weather, there are many headwinds blowing from all directions, battering down on hard-working retailers. Out of town retail parks, international vertical retailers, homegrown discount chains, the massive growth in online
Trust is the most valuable asset
MARTHA FRASER Owner of Martha V boutique in Newmarket. She is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) and spoke to Melissa Wheeler. I look upon the trade shows and buying season as a great opportunity. As the owner of an independent boutique, buying is just one of my responsibilities, so the chance to see a vast selection
e-commerce, business rates, mounting regulation red tape and local planning decisions all conspire to create the perfect storm. A good example of this is parking, which presents a particular challenge to independent retailers up and down the country. It’s no exaggeration to say that parking charges are a deterrent to shopping in town centres and on the high street. Often lost amid complicated policy talk is the fact that councils have the capacity to support independent retailers and improve the regional economies at a grassroots level and in a very simple way: by making parking easier, cheaper and more flexible. All too often these councils are quick to introduce parking restrictions, extra yellow lines and intrusive CCTV cameras under the guise of ‘safety’ while removing parking bays. Yet these very same councils will often still align themselves with the ‘Shop Local’ campaign. Indeed, a recent report by the Association of Town & City Management and the British Parking Association which surveyed off-street parking tariffs at 90 towns and cities across the UK based on footfall, spend and centre quality, found that “some mid-sized and smaller town centres may be overcharging for car parking in
relation to the amenities on offer”, suggesting that this is contributing to their decline. What we all know is that the majority of out of town retail parks charge little or no parking fees, which makes for an unfair playing field. The report found that when charges do apply they are on average18 per cent higher in town centres than they are in out-of-town retail parks. From the perspective of shoppers, the financial pull away from the high street is stronger than the incentive to shop in town. The net result is that high streets up and down the country are losing creative businesses, leaving empty shops and voids which are frequently replaced with mobile phone, betting or pound shops. The effect is selfperpetuating. If we want to protect our town centres and retain choice for consumers then we need to lobby councils and government for change. At Love Brands, we support retailers by offering higher than usual margins, customer service and local marketing support initiatives. We have some great independent businesses out there and it’s about time our local councils acted to support rather than hinder them before it’s too late.
of new and existing brands in one place is really valuable, time-effective and also inspiring. At Martha V we are all eagerly anticipating the first deliveries of Dress Code. I have had my eye on it for some time and finally took the plunge and placed an order at Moda in February. Being located next door to the Newmarket racecourse, it’s important that our offering remains relevant and competitive; I made the decision to venture into occasionwear in 2011 and this is now our most profitable department by a long way. I decided not to buy into the structured Mother of the Bride collections but opted for softer, simpler and younger dress styles which are versatile and yet special. Sometimes, a customer will be with us for hours. This could be a transformative time in their life and they may not be all that confident about the prospect of dressing for this sort of occasion. I love it when their confidence is boosted and they look in the mirror in surprise and smile broadly. I am always on the lookout for new collections but this season I will be searching for a replacement for Steilmann in our casualwear section, which sadly became a victim of the
difficult trading environment last season. It’s certainly tough out there for both suppliers and retailers and I’m a firm believer that we need to work together now more than ever. I have always communicated transparently with my suppliers so that they know exactly where I stand and as a result they trust me and know that I’m true to my word. In such a competitive industry, I feel that trust is one of the most valuable assets we can protect in order to survive. Another reason why I enjoy the trade shows and buying season so much is for the networking and industry insights. I recently returned from a buying trip to Murcia, courtesy of Cabotine and Zeila. I really enjoyed catching up with fellow retailers there too. In February, we attended the Intimate Ball sponsored by Wacoal following a day at Moda. It was a fantastic evening and, besides winning a pair of diamond earrings in the charity auction, it was a wonderful fundraising evening where we had the opportunity to spend time with colleagues, fellow retailers and suppliers. I wish there were more events like this as it’s something which strengthens relationships and makes the industry so unique.
PHIL DAY PARTNERSHIP LTD INVITES YOU TO THE PRESENTATION OF THE ALEMBIKA COLLECTION FOR SPRING / SUMMER 2017
Showing at: Gilmoora House, 57-61 Mortimer Street, London W1W 8HS Monday 18th July - Friday 5th August We are also open all through Pure weekend from Saturday 23rd - Tuesday 26th July Please contact Michelle for an appointment Phil Day Partnership Ltd, P.O.BOX 22, Oldham, OL3 6YW Tel: 0161 228 0573 / 07968-582690 Email: michelle@philday.net Agent Ireland: Trevor Lavery Contact: Jo-Ann McShane JV Collections Tel: 07918690597 Email: jvcollections@btconnect.com Showing July - August in Belfast & Dublin Showrooms
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With its 10th anniversary on the horizon in 2017, Sewn Agency has built a solid business around offering not just wholesale sales to some of the UK’s finest independents, but also PR and creative work for the brands it carries. It’s been an organic growth carefully handled by agency founder Lis Eriksson, as Tom Bottomley hears. TB: When and where did you start up Sewn Agency? LE: I started as an agent here in London in 2007, so next year will be our 10-year anniversary. At first I only had the one collection, a Danish brand called Won Hundred whose head of design and sales actually went on to start Libertine-Libertine – one of our core brands that we still look after and work very closely with to this day. In a short period of time I was contacted by a couple of other brands and, within a year, I had this little set-up. At the time I was only dealing with Scandinavian brands; it made sense, being Swedish myself, but I also felt there was an opportunity with the likes of Acne entering the market in a more commercial way, so I based the agency around that. This Scandinavian ‘styling’, which is now very much the norm over here in everything from clothes to interiors, was all completely new back then and helped me get some great accounts on board from the start. TB: How have you grown it? LE: It’s been very organic. It actually started off with menswear, then adding womenswear, accessories and footwear. All the collections sit well next to each other and complement each other in the showroom. In the beginning the business was focused on independents within the UK only, but as the brands and our network of buyers have grown we now deal with key accounts not just here but globally, which has been exciting. It’s been a very natural progression and since last year we also run seasonal showrooms from Paris and New York.
LIS ERIKSSON FOUNDER, SEWN AGENCY
TB: How would you best describe your business? It’s not just wholesale, is it? LE: No I suppose it’s what some would call a 360-degree approach to launching, growing and supporting brands. I found myself dealing with different PR agencies and connecting local photographers, stylists and creatives with the designers. As most of the brands we work with are either start-ups or completely new to the UK market, a lot of the time they just need that extra attention and support. I figured we have the best understanding of their needs and also knowledge of the
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market. It made sense to expand into PR and creative services, including directing look books, visuals and social media strategies. TB: What does your agency offer that others don’t? LE: I would say we support our designers and brands from as many angles as possible so that we can achieve the best results. As much as we still offer support in more traditional ways like staff training, store events, and merchandising in store, the marketplace is very different from what it was even a few years ago. Everything is so much more accessible. There are so many brands out there and they are expected to not just have an amazing collection and product, but to be able to project that and get their point across through various media and platforms. As well as pure wholesale sales, this is something we understand and can help manage. TB: Do you have a specific target market in terms of the types of retailers you supply? LE: We generally sit in the mid contemporary segment. Our collections also tend to be the entry brands in higher end stores. I prefer quality rather than quantity when it comes to retailers as, if you build a good relationship and sell through focusing on key doors, you can create a really good turnover rather than saturating the market. TB: What would you say are the main responsibilities of an agent in today’s market? LE: I’ve seen quite a few brands going in-house recently; however the knowledge that an agent can posses, not just with the right buyers but general landscape, is something that is hard to grasp if you don’t have a head office here. Essentially, I believe we make things easier for not just buyers but brands, as we are able to support on a daily basis, knowing the needs of the stores and brands – easing the flow of communication. There is no lack of brands at the moment, so to have a good agent in a focus market will ensure the brand is being put in front of the right buyers and the right stores, bringing longevity and quicker increase in turnover.
TB: How do you find dealing with independents in the UK? LE: We have a good time with our independent stores; as we have been around for a while we have a solid network. If any issues arise, we generally manage to work these out. Our brands are also all in the same mindset as us. They would rather have a few good stores on board with a really good sell-through and a solid business set-up that we can grow with. Whilst bigger retailers might place larger orders, great independents add a different point of view, and can also really help solidify a designer’s presence on a more local level. TB: Have you got any new and exciting additions to your brand and product mix for the new s/s 17 season? LE: We have just started working with Keds footwear, which is the original women’s sneaker and has a really interesting heritage. It’s their 100th anniversary this year and it’s exciting to be a part of the relaunch of such an iconic brand. We also have The Boyscouts, a really cool Dutch jewellery brand which I think will sit great with our current womenswear stores. TB: Do you consider your agency a niche player in the market? LE: I think we started off as niche but of course we have expanded. We deal with everyone from ASOS and House of Fraser to Liberty and Goodhood. It really just depends on the brand, what is right for them and how far we can take it. TB: What other plans do you have to take the Sewn Agency forward this year and into 2017? LE: We have a good synergy across the different sides of the business, and how we work the market, so I really want to build on this. I believe this is the right way to grow going forward. I love dealing with great stores, so making connections with more of these globally is something that I look forward to. Having a greater understanding of what collections they are looking for and what we can do for them is important. Any additional services or brands that we will take on board will all depend on this. It’s fashion, it changes all the time, so having a fluid and reactive approach is essential.
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Style File
The hottest brands not to miss this month
t FRENCH DRESSING Enfant terrible is the title of Becksöndergaard’s latest collection, which draws on the French way of life and painters and designers who have lived there, such as Matisse, Picasso and Jean Paul Gaultier. Simple forms are enhanced with Breton stripes and detailed flower prints, with the collection featuring everything from purses and handbags to scarves and socks.
q BEACH BABES New Zealand swimwear label Piha’s s/s 17 collection focuses on the Fitness Diva, with a strong sporty wardrobe taking elements from street and utility. Clean-cut lines moulded from soft-feel neoprene define the styling, with geometric prints adding colour accents and a touch of fun.
Totem Adornments is a new luxury jewellery brand founded by designer Paddy Dickinson. The four capsule collections’ intricate designs blend seeds, handwoven rose gold, recycled silver and personalised stories and messages. Every piece is cast, assembled and hallmarked in London, using recycled and sustainable materials.
t STRONG PERFORMANCE One of the leading lights in the athleisure sector, Elle Sport’s Black label offers luxe and trend-led designs with transitional loungewear and fashion sportswear in focus. A range of cover-ups, loose-fitting tops, hoodies and luxe sweat pants comprise the loungewear offering, while technical fabrics dominate the more functional pieces.
t ENGLISH SUMMER Sugarhill Boutique is launching in-season collections later on this year, designed to be reactive to the brand’s bestsellers, trends and the market as a whole. The s/s 17 collection is inspired by the journey through English summertime, from April showers to garden parties and sunny seaside travels.
A Life Less Ordinary 24-26 July 2016 SS17 And save the date for our AW17 edition, 12-14 February 2017
Olympia London – Get your ticket at purelondon.com
UK’s Premier Fashion Trade Event
BROUGHT TO YOU BY
Spring/Summer 2017 SIZE RANGE: 8-30 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO —
GODSKE SHOWING DATES S/S17 The Gallery Dusseldorf – Fashion House 2 C Second Floor – Room 202 from 19 July to 26 July 2016 Pure Exhibition Olympia 24 July to 26 July 2016 Stand: M83 and M88 London Showroom also open 23 and 24 July 2016 – Weekend of Pure Moda UK NEC Birmingham – Hall 20 Stand: U41 and U51 7 August to 9 August 2016 CIFF Copenhagen Bella Centre – B3 – 241 10 August to 14 August 2016 Dublin Showroom Weekend 14 August to 16 August 2016
LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM: Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043
160 YEARS IN THE MAKING B E A PA R T O F T H E M O S T E XC LU S I V E K N I T W E A R B R A N D F O R G E N E R AT I O N S A L I M I T E D N U M B E R O F R E TA I L L I S T I N G S A V A I L A B L E . T O E N Q U I R E A B O U T B E C O M I N G A N E X C L U S I V E S T O C K I S T, C A L L + 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 4 8 4 8 4 8 4 3 4 O R E M A I L I N F O R M AT I O N @ S L A I T H. C O. U K
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Rabe – Making it happen With a mix of commercial design and affordable price points, Rabe is quickly establishing itself as the go-to brand for contemporary knitwear, and it’s set to make an even bigger impact on the market for s/s 17.
German knitwear brand Rabe is going from strength to strength, with a growing customer base across mainland UK who are convinced by the brand’s commercial design and competitive price points. Rabe’s motto has always been to celebrate fashion, and it’s this philosophy that informs each collection. The company has invested heavily in its design and infrastructure, while always offering affordable price points and without compromising on the quality. Rabe exclusively develops unique and patented fibres which are easy to care for and very comfortable to wear. The brand’s unique viscose fibres, for instance, also have anti-allergenic qualities which add to the overall appeal of each garment. The spring/summer 17 collection once again focuses on colour, with pastels sitting alongside bolder shades and an array of neutrals, which together deliver a rounded offer and an appealing mix of styles. Textures and innovative 3D effects take centre stage across knitwear, wovens and jerseys thanks to the use of new yarns and creative printing techniques. Delivering the right merchandise at the right time is one of the cornerstones of the brand’s design ethos, and this has proven to be a key driver of Rabe’s huge success. Each drop is designed with the time of delivery in focus and to be in tune with the seasons, so that the styles can be worn straight away, adding to the commercial appeal of each collection. The company continues to invest in its stock service and customer support, with comprehensive POS schemes, stock management and a NOS range available year-round. With over 100 stockists in the UK, Rabe continues its rapid expansion: heavyweight customers of the brand include The Lodge, Something Different, Elizabeth Rose and Victoria Lane, and more retailers are discovering the name each season. It’s not surprising then that The Rabe Group recently reported a significant growth in turnover across its portfolio of brands, which also includes LeComte, offering contemporary quality knitwear for the fashionconscious woman, as well as LUCIA, which is relaunching in the UK for s/s 17 with exquisite feminine knitwear and related separates. All brands are represented in the UK by fashion agency Partners in Fashion and will be shown in their Central London showroom. SHOWING DATES: Collection 1: 28 June to 21 July 2016 / Collection 2: 22 July to 2 September 2017 PARTNERS IN FASHION 16a Newman Street, London W1T 1PB Contact: 020 7636 4207 / Email: sales@partnersinfashion.co.uk www.partnersinfashion.com
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Riviera chic From Cannes to Saint Tropez, the Riviera trend fuses film star glamour with relaxed summer style, in a fuss-free palette of red, blue and white with a nautical edge. WWB selects the top items available for in-store delivery now. 04/
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1/ BEDOUIN £70 020 763 3988 • 2/ STORM price on request www.stormlondon.com • 3/ MUEHLBAUER ¤95 0043 1533 5269 4/ KIRK ORIGINALS £61 020 7248 1238 • 5/ EMILY & FIN from £23 020 7812 9992 • 6/ LOST INK price on request 020 3728 7766 7/ ANGELEYE £9.50 020 8838 5979 • 8/ PIA ROSSINI price on request 028 9146 7999 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
w w w. ro n a l d j o y c e . c o m
djoyce.com wwwwww. .rroonnaa ll d joyce.com View the beautiful Spring / Summer 2017 collection at Moda H A L L 2 0 , S TA N D U 1 9 7TH - 9TH AUGUST
London Showing Dates from 20 July – 3 August Contact Henri Rose Tel: 07778 794 544 henrirosefashions@gmail.com NORTH OF ENGLAND - WATSON BRADSHAW Tel: 0113 2443375 SCOTLAND - SUSAN CAMERON Tel: 07966 622332
The most
Professional & International Fair of its kind in Asia
13 - 16 September 2016 AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong
UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2516 2192 / 2516 2194 Fax: (852) 3749 7344 Email: visitafj-hk@ubm.com
9FJ16_190x136_eng.indd 1
www.AsiaFJA.com
24/6/16 下午2:45
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Self-made success
German premium label Riani has built a strong reputation for excellence across its 32 international markets, with exports accounting for more than 50 per cent of the business and its growth each year. The UK is an important strategic territory for the brand, with big ambitions for further expansion and a commitment to wholesale, as Isabella Griffiths finds out.
“We are completely, one hundred per cent self-financed and have never needed to rely on a bank – and we’re very proud of that. As a company we only expand within a framework we can afford,” says Martina Buckenmaier, one part of the successful husband-and-wife team behind German premium label Riani. It’s quite the statement, and indeed quite a privileged position for any company to be in, with this prudent, maybe typically German approach to business clearly proving a winning formula, because expansion has been rapid and strong over the last few years. Riani is now exporting into 32 countries worldwide and only last year opened new 10,000 sqm state-ofthe-art headquarters in Schorndorf, near the city of Stuttgart. A testament to Riani’s success and growth, 100 employees work there, with another 350 staff employed by the company in the production facilities in Poland and Hungary. The company was founded by Jürgen Buckenmaier, Martina’s husband, in 1968, a time where flower power and hippie culture were rife in Germany, with Buckenmaier having landed a huge fashion coup with the launch of wide flared trousers which became known as the ‘Bucki’ pants and sold more than 100,000 pairs. And while this success formed the foundations for what 10 years later would become Riani, he attributes his mother with instilling fashion nous and an entrepreneurial spirit into him. In post-war Germany, it was
Hildegard Amalie Buckenmaier who had to take care of the family and the two sons, with the father still in captivity, which she did by organising sales events in local pubs, selling coats from a nearby coat manufacturer under the label Rialto (this was later the inspiration for ‘Riani’, an Italian sounding name as a tribute to the high quality Italian fabrics that were used for the brand). Martina, herself part of a textile and leather manufacturing family, joined her husband a few years later, while the couple’s 26 year-old daughter Mona, who worked for Mytheresa.com after her Bachelor degree, is set to join the management team after completing her Masters degree, which she is currently studying for in Milan. It’s fair to say that Riani is a family business, not only because Jürgen, Martina and soon Mona are at the helm of it, but because the company culture itself nurtures an informal and family-like atmosphere among its staff, where ideas are encouraged and everyone’s input is welcome, as Martina Buckenmaier explains. “We are very lucky that we have a strong team of people who, like us, are very passionate about the label and making it a success. We do a lot of brainstorming and constantly work on improving the label or how we as a company operate, and I think that’s very important,” she says. It’s this attitude that has earned Riani an international reputation for excellence, with the label a popular choice
“ WHAT WE DON’T DO, IS HAVE
INDEPENDENTS
BUILD UP OUR BRAND SOMEWHERE, AND
THEN STEP IN AND
UNDERMINE THEM BY OPENING OUR
OWN STORE IN THE SAME TOWN, LIKE
SOME BRANDS DO. THAT IS JUST NOT OUR STYLE.” JÜRGEN, MARTINA AND MONA BUCKENMAIER
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among independents, including in the UK, where the brand currently has around 80 accounts. Having been represented by SLM fashion agency since 2012, the UK has quickly become a very important export market for Riani, which the Buckenmaiers are hoping to significantly expand. “It’s our aim to double our UK business over the next three years; whether that’s in terms of accounts or the volume of business we do with our existing customers, that remains to be seen, but the UK certainly offers us a huge amount of potential and Riani has been very well received,” says Martina Buckenmaier. She cites factors such as ‘intergenerational’ styling, reliability and expert fit as the key factors that constitute Riani’s appeal. “Our collections are designed to fit all generations of women. Style is not a questions of age, but of lifestyle, and we offer designs that are adaptable and suit a wide variety of women. We are also very reliable, we always deliver on time and we are very approachable when it comes to any problems; we are always happy to help and have an open dialogue with our customers. And we are renowned for our fit. Each design is cut and fitted on a size 10 and a size 16 to ensure that all our styles fit every body shape perfectly, and I believe that this has also been key to our success, as we take this very seriously,” she says. In terms of brand positioning, Riani often sits alongside the likes of Max Mara, Boss, René Lezard, Strenesse and Marc Cain, though Buckenmaier is keen to point out that the label very much follows its own direction. Then there’s Riani’s marked commitment to wholesale, which is another fundamental principle in the brand’s corporate philosophy. “We are very much a wholesale brand. We believe that our collections sit best within exclusive and selected independent boutiques who know their customers and their areas better than anyone, and we are very much committed to them,” says Buckenmaier. “Don’t get me wrong, we are not against opening stores per se, and where it makes sense and
doesn’t impact on our stockists, we will consider it. For instance, we recently took over a store on the [North Sea] island of Sylt where one of our stockists was retiring and didn’t have a successor. As we don’t have any other representation there, it made sense for us to take over. “What we don’t do, however, is have independents build up our brand somewhere, and then step in and undermine them by opening our own store in the same town, like some brands do. That is just not our style. We want our partners to be successful with our brand, just as we want to be successful with them,” she clarifies. This commitment is evident in Riani’s close cooperation with its stockists, with the brand’s PR and marketing teams tasked with coming up with new initiatives to support its retailers, including comprehensive POS schemes or in-store events to encourage footfall and sales in-stores. These are available internationally and are becoming increasingly important in the retailer-brand relationship. “Our retailer support schemes are available to all our stockists across all our territories. More than 50 per cent of our business is now exportbased, so we have to offer the same support as to our domestic clients; that’s a given,” says Buckenmaier. Riani’s success is evidently the result of hard work, vision and sensible business decisions. Future plans see the possible expansion into e-commerce, though this is something the Buckenmaiers will leave to their daughter Mona to tackle once she fully joins the business. And with the next generation at the helm of the label already raring to go, it looks like Riani is set for bigger things to come. Suffice to say that Jürgen and Martina Buckenmaier would never consider ‘selling out’ to investment groups or venture capitalists or the like. “No, never,” says Buckenmaier. “That’s one thing that’s absolutely certain. Why should we?” www.riani.de
www.carolccollections.com 0800 612 9009 MODA S40 - PURE J118 (Dresses, pictured £20)
Top £16 Skirt £19
Dress £22
Cardigan £18 Dress £20
Jumpsuit £22
Dress £25
www.carolccollections.com 0800 612 9009 MODA S40 - PURE J118
www.carolccollections.com 0800 612 9009 MODA S40
www.carolccollections.com 0800 612 9009 MODA S40
S E L L I N G DAT E S
2 7 TH JUNE
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1 9 TH AU G S H OW R O O M : 33 N E W M A N S T R E E T, LO N D O N W 1 T 1 P Y
U K & I R E L A N D CO U N T R Y S A L E S M A N AG E R R AC H E L W I L E S : 0 74 63 64 56 70 / E N G L A N D @ B I T T E KA I R A N D.CO M / W W W. B I T T E KA I R A N D.CO M
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The Spring/ Summer 17 Edit
WWB’s in-depth guide to the brands, the looks, the launches and trends of the season ahead.
LAUREL
FASHION NEWS... 54 BRAND GUIDE... 62 IN FOCUS: YOUNG FASHION... 78 SCOOP & THE CITY PREVIEW... 88 FIRST GLANCE AT MODA... 97 >>>
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Fashion News The labels and launches not to miss for s/s 17.
NEW AGENCY MR AND MRS P LAUNCHES
FELY CAMPO FOR EVERY OCCASION Spanish occasionwear brand Fely Campo is looking to expand its UK and Eire presence for s/s 17, targeting the modern 30+ woman. Represented by fashion agent Peter Robbins, the brand is a step away from the traditional Mother of the Bride looks and offers three-week repeats and special orders year-round. Launched in the UK and Ireland a year ago, the label is stocked by 30 key accounts in the wedding sector, with further growth in occasion and womenswear boutiques planned. Spring/summer 17 sees a palette of acid brights, navy, gold and silver plus a number of vibrant prints. Everything is made in the company’s own factories in Salamanca, with average wholesale prices for dresses £125 and jackets £75.
Fashion agency MDA has expanded its product portfolio with the addition of Israeli label Gershon Bram for s/s 17. The brand, which was established in 1981, specialises in the use of natural fabrics with a comfortable and relaxed, yet edgy design. The collection includes soft knits and fine wovens to fit and flatter every shape and size.
A new multi-brand fashion agency has launched to the market for s/s 17, offering a strong brand portfolio of six mid to premium end ready-towear labels. Mr and Mrs P Agency is the brainchild of James Preston, who draws on more than two decades of extensive experience in fashion design, retailing, wholesale and brand consultancy, having worked, among others, with renowned fashion agents Mary Skinner and Janet Thurston. The agency offers a varied and complementary stable of brands, including Gentryportofino (pictured), offering unique ‘Made in Italy’ cashmere pieces, fellow Italian knitwear specialist Ivories, British shearling and leather brand Dom Goor, UK designer label Daisy Darche, Dutch outerwear brand Co.Exist as well as 88&Half, a British label with a modern and clean aesthetic. Preston is looking to establish the brand in the UK and Ireland through high-quality independent boutiques and department stores.
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FRANK LYMAN MAKES MODA DEBUT Following strong sales in previous seasons and an excellent response to the Power of Style and Power of Cruise collections, Canadian brand Frank Lyman is investing in further visibility and expansion in the UK market with its debut at this season’s Pure London and Moda Woman. The brand is known for its vibrant prints and flattering cuts, and in particular a strong collection of dresses, which once again forms the foundation for the s/s 17 collection. Meanwhile, the Frank Lyman Design Cruise collection uses a multitude of colours, prints and textures. Cut-out shoulders, Bardot tops and layering tunics are among the highlights.
EUGEN KLEIN LAUNCHES 5 HEARTS German womenswear brand Eugen Klein has launched a dedicated dress collection, 5 Hearts, for s/s 17. Available as a standalone separates range, the collection has been created in response to customer requests and is set to fill a gap in the market following the recent demise of several popular dress lines. The range features day and occasion dresses with matching jackets, shrugs and boleros, with the target audience pitched between 40 to 60 years of age. It will be aimed at existing Eugen Klein stockists, as well as new customers and stores who have a strong occasion offer.
Lifestyle brand Lexington has built its s/s 17 collection around a woman who shares her time between her city life in Brooklyn and weekends at the Hamptons. Reflecting the seaside inspiration, blue is the dominant hue, with allure blue, federal blue and vintage indigo the central focus. Shirts in linen, poplin and cotton oxford as well as casual boyfriend cut chinos are key.
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STRONG GROWTH FOR ALEMBIKA Israeli label Alembika is building on its success in the UK market and looking to expand its customer base further for s/s 17. Designed by Hagar Alembik from Tel Aviv, the band specialises in soft and supple jersey fabrics that drape on the body to fit, flatter and move fluidly. Seamlessness is key, with the styles requiring no zips or buttons as part of the easy dressing concept. The collections feature an abundance of dresses as well as separates which can be worn for any occasion, with brand adjacencies including Crea Concept, Masai, Oska, Sarah Pacini, Grizas and Vetono. Wholesale prices for dresses range between £59 to £95, for tops £35 to £65 and pants £35 to £59. Colours for spring are muted yet strong, with vibrant stripes sitting next to flower garden prints.
ANONYME DESIGNERS LAUNCH PURE COLLECTION Italian label Anonyme Designers has added a fourth line to its three existing seasonal capsules. Named Anonyme Pure, the collection is characterised by clean silhouettes, solid colours and bold prints for holiday elegance. The range complements Anonyme’s existing lines, including Unique, the brand’s sophisticated ‘Black Label’, Roma, which centres around romantic elegance, as well as Anonyme, the most informal line, delivering a playful element with trend-led pieces at competitive price points. The collections are sold as successful ‘bridge’ ranges between high-end premium and mid-range womenswear and are represented in the UK by Love Brands. Targeted at the 30-35 year-old market, the collections are available to buy separately or together. Wholesale prices start at £16 for a blouse, rising to £50 for a coat with a 2.8 mark up.
Canadian brand Joseph Ribkoff is building on the continued success of its collection with a further focus on styles that will take the wearer from daytime to evening occasions. Key looks for s/s 17 reflect a soft, romantic trend, with bold colours and prints key to the styling. Modern essential highlights in soft, flirty silhouettes with cascading layers, tiers and ruffles sit alongside effortless, lightweight layering pieces. The palette is a mix of bright statement colours, offset by accents of romantic pales.
GEOX APPAREL APPOINTS UK AGENTS Geox, the Italian specialist for breathable technology, has appointed London agency Partners in Fashion as the UK and Ireland representative for its apparel division. The Geox outerwear collections will be handled by the multi-brand agency, with the focus on placing the brand with leading women’s and menswear independents. The outdoor clothing collection builds on Geox’s trademark of breathability, with the brand having developed an exclusive line of outerwear styles that combine maximum body temperature regulation and maximum comfort. Retail price points range between £139 and £289, offering a mark up of 2.75.
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represented by
Showroom: 10 Middleton Place · London W1W 7TG Phone 07906 070081
SELLING DATES
Spring / Summer Collection 2017 1st COLLECTION 29 JUN — 21 JUL 2016 2nd COLLECTION 27 JUL — 19 AUG 2016 SCOOP LONDON 24 JUL — 26 JUL 2016
www.marc-aurel.com
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CORANIT UK AGENCY EXPANDS WITH TWO NEW LABELS Fashion agency Coranit UK has expanded its stable of brands with the addition of Austrian label Moya and Danish collection Herluf Design. Moya is a range of shirts and dresses which are trend-led and individual, aimed at the 40+ market. Easy-care, highest quality fabrics and immaculate fit are at the centre of the brand’s aesthetic, with distinctive prints and vibrant colours a key characteristic. Every shirt is cut individually and manufactured in Europe. Herluf Design, meanwhile, specialises in outerwear and has been a key player in the sector since its inception in the 1960s. The company operates to ethical standards and prides itself on stringed quality control, with an array of jackets and coats available each season.
French brand Les100Ciel is launching to the UK this season through fashion agency BLD. The brand offers a complete wardrobe of high quality womenswear with a focus on luxurious cashmere, making use of innovative dyeing and knitting technology and advanced yard development. The emphasis is on structure and simple silhouettes, including the brand’s own patented super-lightweight cashmere, ‘Cashair’.
UNE A UNE MAKES UK DEBUT Jewellery and accessory brand Une A Une has appointed Leah Bernal Agency as its UK representative from s/s 17. The brand was born in Santa Teresa, Costa Rica, in 2012, with the name evoking the finesse and delicacy with which the stones are strung onto the delicate thread, one by one. The collection features an array of earrings, bracelets and necklaces, as well as a selection of handbags and leather accessories, with wholesale prices ranging from ¤12 to ¤35 for jewellery and ¤20 to ¤50 for handbags. The brand is looking to expand in the UK market through mid to high end independent boutiques.
TCA SHOWROOM LAUNCHES JEVA Fashion agency TCA Showroom has taken on dress collection Jeva. The range specialises in dresses that are tailored to any shape and create flattering and body-enhancing silhouettes. Having created bespoke dresses for a number of years, the brand has now expanded to offer a wholesale range. Using high quality fabrics, the collection focuses on elements such as the right shoulder line, flattering shapes and a combination of colours and materials to create an impeccable fit and a slimming effect throughout.
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M O N D AY 8 T H A U G U S T Join us at The Highline, the fabulous new bar and dining experience at Resorts World, Birmingham for the most glamorous Moda Party so far. The Highline is just a short walk from the Moda halls and we’ll have drinks waiting for you from 7pm. Book your place now! To book your tickets contact Grace Marsh on +44 (0)1484 848328 or grace.marsh@moda-uk.co.uk
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Spring/Summer 2017
Brand guide
WWB’s directory of the trends, the brands and the news that will define the season ahead.
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MICHELE Michele’s skirt collection is gaining popularity, with s/s 17 seeing the introduction of more modern and trend-led styles in varying lengths. Elsewhere, the Magic Collection continues to dominate, with the body-shaping jeans enhanced by fringed embroideries, rivet motifs and rhinestones. Summery lightness and neutral shades come alive in various prints and jacquards, while new silhouettes in flowing materials and sporty, casual styles also set the tone.
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MARBLE Lightweight knits in soft and elegant yarns, jersey that drapes the silhouette, printed coordinates and figure-enhancing jeans all form part of Marble’s s/s 17 collection. The brand’s printed coordinates are chosen to match with seasonal colours, ensuring merchandising each programme in-store is simple and effective. There are more colour options across Marble Jeans, with styles including skinny, ankle grazers, crops, straight and bootcut.
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SCAPA An elegant selection of crisp tailoring with jackets and coordinating dresses for special occasions, Scapa once again offers luxury separates in soft pastel colours, combining fashion forward knitwear, on-trend trousers and skirts to make a complete collection.
Trend watch: Printed trousers
THOMAS RATH
SMASHED LEMON
MICHELE
ATELIER GARDEUR
ZERRES
The focus of the season remains very much on the bottom half of the body, with trousers in a variety of vivid prints moving into the fashion spotlight. Florals are the key prints here, whether that’s as dainty petals or bold and large blooms, while other, abstract, graphic or Aztec-inspired prints also feature.
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PICADILLY Building on the successful collaboration with acclaimed Canadian designers last season, Picadilly is ready for a casual summer with an array of dresses in a rich variety of colour and fabric options. Over 50 different materials feature in the collection, which will take wearers from work to dinner. Casual comfort is key, concentrating on natural fabrics and flattering silhouettes.
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OAKWOOD French leather brand Oakwood offers a wide range of classic and trend-led pieces. This season, key styles are updated with edgier styling, combining the highest quality leathers with latest fashion trends. The brand is also launching its first Biker Jacket Bar, offering a multitude of styles from basic to fringed, embellished or plain.
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LAUREL At Laurel, vivid, tropical prints sit alongside a clean and crisp simplicity this season. White and cream are dominant shades, offset against colour accents in the form of graphics, or worn head to toe for a sophisticated and minimalist look. Oversized silhouettes are juxtaposed with more figure-hugging styles.
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Trend watch: Shades of indigo
LUISA CERANO
ZERRES
MARC AUREL
ATELIER GARDEUR
SCHNEIDERS
Denim is not only coming back into focus this season, but the classic blue shade of indigo is being used across jeans, chambrays and non-denim styles. Whether head to toe as seen over at Luisa Cerano, worn as summery double denim like Zerres and Atelier Gardeur have favoured, or playfully juxtaposed in tonal combinations of fabrics and textures, this is a trend that can be dressed up or down.
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Trend watch: Stripes
FOIL
FABER
LATTE
JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN
BANDOLERA
RIANI
Stripes return for spring/summer 17 across an array of product groups. From classic Breton stripes to bold and wide bands, the choice is vast. Knitwear in stripe designs takes centre stage, as seen at Faber or Johnstons of Elgin, while Bandolera and Latte create interest on outerwear styles with cool juxtapositions. Classic black and white prevails, with unusual colour combinations also making a welcome appearance.
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TIA Part of the Godske Group of labels, Tia offers a range of bright and monochrome dresses and separates, with an emphasis on versatility to take the wearer from day to evening and cocktail to special event. Figure-flattering silhouettes and high quality fabrics make up the core of the collection.
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DIEGO M Diego M has been a household name for glamorous and luxurious outerwear for over three decades and its international growth is testament to the brand’s success. For s/s 17 the brand has added a number of lightweight down jackets, gilets and fine leather jackets as well as stylish rain and trench coats in a colour palette of gentle neutrals and soft pastels.
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FABER Faber’s collection is divided into three colour themes, including a story centred around chalk beige, white, creams, apricot and peach melba. Tonal colour gradient patterns feature heavily, as do innovative jacquard structures, which demonstrate the great technical know-how of the brand. All-over and inside prints create new focus points, while ready-towear styles made of super-soft fake leather add a further fresh element to the range.
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PURE BY LUCIA Pure by Lucia is characterised by high levels of innovation and design, offering contemporary knitwear which combines functionality with aesthetics. Clear, geometric shapes and lines create eye-catching surface arrangements, while new jumper shapes bring seasonal interest and novelty to the s/s 17 collection.
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CREA CONCEPT Easy, relaxed and soft dressing sums up the range over at Crea Concept for s/s 17. Loose shapes that are versatile and can be layered to create individual looks are key, as is a colour palette of gentle neutrals which sit alongside aqua blue, pink, coral, green, elephant grey and black and white.
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LUISA CERANO Luxuriously feminine looks sum up the direction at Luisa Cerano this season. The focus is on individual garments and statement pieces, with the use of high quality materials and a play on innovative details. Cool neutrals such as anthracite and platinum form the basis, while warm gold tones, honey shades and eggshell stand in contrast to them for feminine attitude. Prints, retroinspired jacquards and embroidery add new accents.
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Seaside bohemia is the key trend of the Joules s/s 17 collection. The combination of classic stripes with Joules’ signature hand-drawn floral prints and bohemian details on a bold colour palette moves this collection on from previous years. Distinctive detailing updates for spring/summer include tassels, fringing and colourful embroidery, and are all delivered in outfits that exude fluidity.
Maria Bellentani is aimed at women who want to express their individual style without compromising on high quality fabrics or comfort. Contemporary and sophisticated, the brand’s knitwear is all made in Italy with the country’s typical style and vision. Knits, dresses and T-shirts form the basis of the collection, which is available in sizes 8 to 20.
JOULES
MARIA BELLENTANI
Trend watch: Crisp white
LAUREL
TURNOVER
ANGELS NEVER DIE
The array of warm and sophisticated neutrals which dominates the colour palette this season is topped off with a focus on head-totoe white. The look works both across structured and unstructured pieces, with layering a key element in creating interest and avoiding blandness. A play with textures, different lengths and even neat tailoring creates a flattering femininity.
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BRAINTREE There are two themes in this season’s Braintree collection: ‘Urban Artisan’, featuring hand painted florals and geometrics, and ‘Voyage’, which boasts vibrant colours and prints inspired by the story of Jeanne Baret, the first woman to circumnavigate the globe. The range suits a more urban lifestyle with a smarter and dressed up feel, and includes oversized kimono jackets in lightweight fabrics to add newness and interest.
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SMASHED LEMON Smashed Lemon presents another bright and colourful collection, capturing the spirit of Amsterdam. Look out for fresh and vibrant summer prints across a range of dresses and outfits for any occasion. The collection is available in sizes 8 to 20.
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Alembika is a contemporary and trend-led designer collection, with s/s 17 the brand’s fourth season. The brand’s signature is that it uses no zips or buttons, constantly reinventing itself in each collection. Easy-to-wear silhouettes are at the core of the label, providing a go-to wardrobe of garments for day to evening.
Spring/summer 17 sees the relaunch of this iconic brand from the Italian Miroglio Group, with a new design team and a focus on exclusive prints, modern styling and vibrant colours. The handwriting of the collection, however, remains: feminine, understated and elegant clothes for a modern woman.
ALEMBIKA
CARACTERE
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Trend watch: Gentle rose
FTC CASHMERE
LUISA CERANO
BANDOLERA
A gentle, dusky rose emerges as another on-trend colour of the season, worn as a clean and stylish overall look, as the likes of FTC Cashmere, Luisa Cerano and Bandolera demonstrate. It’s a minimalist and understated style, with little fuss or detailing, and a focus instead on high quality fabrics and crisp silhouettes that create statement outfits without being overbearing.
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JAMES LAKELAND
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MONARI Knitted cardigans, T-shirts, jackets and dresses take centre stage at Monari this season. Athleisure inspired looks sit alongside feminine and romantic styling, with lurex and sprayed linen yarns as well as black and blue denim key. Neutral and earthy shades with accent colours of papaya, rose quartz and shades of indigo with black feature throughout.
James Lakeland is building on the success of its casual range, which was implemented for s/s 16, with colourful layered tops and blouses among the highlight pieces. Special occasion, evening and event dressing also comes back into focus, offering modern and ultra wearable designs.
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SS17 Preview Pure, Hall H1, Q188 | Moda, F20 E sales@jacobsongroup.co.uk T 01706 212512 W www.ravel.co.uk
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YACCO MARICARD Japanese label Yacco Maricard’s signature look is based around pin-tucked natural fabrics in an abundance of colour. The brand, which was launched in 1977 and is aimed at the 40-plus market, once again focuses on the geometry of nature, showcased in sculptural cotton, linen and silk with origami folds and construction.
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BITTE KAI RAND Rooted in ancient Egypt, the Bitte Kai Rand s/s 17 collection is a modern and edgy collision of different motifs of Egyptian culture and art along with primitive cave paintings. A soft metallic colour scheme with gold and silver at the core gives the collection a luxurious feel.
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LATTE Latte has significantly extended its collection for s/s 17, with key items including oversized jackets to be worn with off-duty separates, new shape three-quarter sleeve contemporary dresses, design-led outerwear and textured spring knitwear and tunics. Other capsules capture the trends of maxi stripes, checks, leaf prints, 3D flowers and peek-a-boo necklines. Meanwhile, quirky textured tops, knits and sleeved contemporary dresses remain the beating heart of Latte.
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NÜ NÜ By Staff Woman offers cool, relaxed, raw and comfortable collections, with a touch of the bohemian. The s/s 17 collection is based upon an earthy and tonal colour palette of blacks, whites, creams, rose, green and midnight blue, which creates an organic and understated look that appeals to the sophisticated rock chick. Linen, chiffon and silk are contrasted with lamb leather and wool and feature a bold range of prints from floral to birds and abstract designs. Beneath the subtle designs, lie intricate detailing, embroidery, stitching and skilled pattern cuts, which comprise the unique NÜ signature.
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SIX WEEKS OF SUMMER
THE NEW SEASON BRINGS A MIX OF EXAGGERATED SILHOUETTES, INTRICATE PRINTS AND METALLIC FINISHES. WWB HIGHLIGHTS SOME OF S/S 17’S KEY PIECES.
Photographer: Richard Boyle Stylist: Victoria Jackson Make-up and Grooming: Lauren Rippin www.laurensally.co.uk Models: Shea Thompson-Blake and Henry Smith, both of Boss Model Management www.bossmodelmanagement.co.uk
White leather jacket – Cubic price on request 020 3432 6385 Grey Love top – Chaser £24 020 7349 9668 Jeans – Hallhuber price on request 0800 8506000
Dress – Neon Rose £11.70 0161 835 2064
Jumpsuit – Native Youth £21.50 0161 835 2064 Backpack – MiPac £16.70 020 7739 7620 Shoes – Kickers £35.50 01254 277231
Dress – Emily + Fin £30 020 7812 9992 Velvet bomber – Unique21 £10.30 0161 839 9494
Shea wears: Striped top – Sugarhill Boutique £12.15 01273 911393 Jeans – Franklin & Marshall £33 0039 045 558068 Shirt – Sugarhill Boutique £14.30 01273 911393 Trainers – Gola £20.95 01706 219444 — Henry wears: Jacket – Weekend Offender £29.63 01332 614755 Jeans – Duck & Cover £26 0844 693 0401 Top – Bellfield £7.25 0844 477 4856
Satin bomber jacket – Cubic price on request 020 3432 6385 Brown jeans – Dranella price on request 0161 236 9251 Black top – Neon Rose £10 0161 835 2064 Shoes – Dolcis £13.99 01706 212512
Rock and roll T-shirt – Chaser £18 020 7349 9668 Black PUV skirt – Hallhuber price on request 0800 850 6000 Bralet – Chaser £13 020 7349 9668
T-shirt – A Black and White Story price on request care@ablackandwhitestory.com Jeans – Silvia Heach price on request 020 3432 6385 Necklace – Emi £8 01273 671788
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City lights Scoop and the City 24 to 26 July – Old Billingsgate, London
This month, boutique trade shows Scoop and Scoop London will come together under one roof in one of London’s historic riverside locations, Old Billingsgate, under the banner ‘Scoop and the City’. It’s a one-off vacation from the shows’ usual home, the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea, which is hosting the Rolling Stones retrospective Exhibitionism, but an equally spectacular setting for the stylish and exclusive event. WWB takes a look at some of the labels and international designers that are making an appearance at this season’s special edition.
For more information, pre-registration, regular updates and a full brand listing visit www.scoop-international.com
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Pinghe
PINGHE London based label Pinghe was launched by award-winning Chinese fashion designer Ping He. Whilst working for Alexander McQueen and Aftershock, Ping began gaining both critical acclaim and celebrity fans, before branching out with her debut eponymous collection in 2012. The collection combines leather with sheer and structured silhouettes. ALBERTINE Launched in 2008 and the brainchild of two sisters, Albertine is an ultrafeminine swimwear line which blurs the boundaries between beach and ready-to-wear. Bandeaus, retro cuts, flounces, seersucker stripes and impressionist-style florals set the tone within the range, which is becoming increasingly popular with boutiques across the globe. ZIIO Italian jewellery line Ziio was launched by French-born Elisabeth Paradon, whose handworked creations in silver, gold and semi-precious stones utilise an exclusive technique developed through her experiences acquired during many years travelling and working in different countries.
Sherene Melinda
Albertine
SHERENE MELINDA The London-based, South African-inspired designer handbag label is making its Scoop debut this season. Sherene Melinda offers handbags made with the brand’s signature authentic springbok hair-on hide and luxurious leathers both inside and out. The newest collection introduces their first unisex bag, a cosmopolitan rucksack with a clean silhouette, and optionally includes the addition of a leather laptop case.
Ziio >>>
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Maya Magal
MAYA MAGAL Maya Magal is renowned for its sleek and contemporary style, focusing on graphic lines and the brand’s trademark intertwining of silver and gold. It’s an understated aesthetic with unusual sequences throughout the designs. MIRABELLE New at Mirabelle is a crystal collection which sees the introduction of ethical stones from around the world, individually sourced by designer Veronique Henry herself. A new chain collection complements the crystals and helps create a statement look. KIRSTIN ASH This season at Kirstin Ash sees the delivery of new gemstones and delicate geometric designs in precious metals. Layering with Kirstin Ash jewellery is a key concept of the brand, creating a look for everyday luxury. INTUA JEWELLERY Fine jewellery label Intua specialises in elegant and modern designs with gems and hand painted enamel. Understated designs with a distinctive flair are at the core of the brand’s ethos, with each piece lovingly handcrafted using traditional techniques.
Intua Jewellery
Kirstin Ash
Mirabelle
Primrose Park
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PRIMROSE PARK Primrose Park is a range of soft printed separates and dresses, with s/s 17 seeing the introduction of folksy holiday tops, easy-to-wear off-duty dresses, floaty silk maxis, cool culottes, button-through silk shirts and the brand’s bestselling open shirt, available in eight prints. DIEGO M Diego M offers iconic and glamorous luxury outerwear, with lightweight summer down jackets, gilets, fine leather jackets and stylish raincoats and trenches key in this season’s collection. Making its debut in Harvey Nichols for a/w 16, the brand is looking to extend its reach in the UK further across selected indies. PARKA LONDON Parka London’s new collection, ‘British Summer Time’, retains the brand’s unique identity with minimalist aesthetics and luxury detail. Clean, simple and sporty silhouettes are combined with a mix of light, crisp nylons, cotton canvas and denim fabrics in fresh, natural and earthy pops of colour, with abstract prints.
Wildfox WILDFOX Based in Los Angeles, vintage-inspired women’s knitwear brand Wildfox has grown to include a full range of tops, bottoms, dresses and skirts. Meanwhile, its White Label collection offers a range of luxuriously soft sweater knits, laces, chiffons, velour and sequins.
Parka London
Diego M
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HELEN KAMINSKI Abounding in colour, pattern and texture, the Helen Kaminski Resort s/s 17 collection interprets boldly patterned Grecian tiles, fluid architectural forms and feminine Victorian details into sophisticated summer accessories. A skilfully crafted palette, dynamic new patterns and hand crafted raffia stitches characterise the range of hats, scarves, bags and small accessories.
Helen Kaminski
ANGELA CAPUTI In Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s elegant and sophisticated eponymous collection, her characteristic synthetic resin materials are combined with original details made in Perspex. Geometrical shapes of clear and black Perspex stand out this season, alongside complete black pieces and alternating small colour beads in green, bordeaux or red. ELLIOT RHODES Elliot Rhodes continues to explore texture, with soft natural leathers hand woven in a muted palette of taupe, light beige and shades of earthy browns. The theme of animal prints and textures continues with the inclusion of pony-hair straps in smaller proportions and more feminine tones.
Angela Caputi
Religion
RELIGION Womenswear prints at Religion have taken inspiration from English woodlands and Victorian designer William Morris’s nature artworks. The in-house team has developed prints from these elements and created strong, yet feminine designs. To add texture to the collection, techniques such as beading and fraying have been integrated into the styles.
Elliot Rhodes
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Varley
KNITSS Knitss is a contemporary knitwear brand focusing on effortless luxury through use of the finest materials and flawless workmanship. Chic and unexpected yarn combinations characterise the range, which is made in Europe with high sustainability and ethical codes in mind, while colour also plays a central role in each collection.
Kyma Sandals
Knitss
KYMA SANDALS Greek label Kyma Sandals specialises in exactly that, but with a stylish and contemporary twist in each collection. A vast array of sandals is available each season, with on-trend colours key to the brand’s growing international success. SUNDRY Los Angeles-based Sundry is a resortwear brand offering coastal casual with a certain French chic. Born in Aix-en-Provence, the label’s designer Matthieu Leblan now calls Venice Beach home. Drawing inspiration from the landscape of his birthplace and the relaxed style of SoCal, Leblan’s collections are made in the US from the softest fabrics.
Sundry
VARLEY Varley is a contemporary lifestyle brand founded by native Londoners Ben and Lara Mead. Directed from their offices in Los Angeles and London, the label is known for its prints and mesh details, which are changed every season. All Varley performance styles are made for exercise, featuring honeycomb construction for breathability, sweat wicking/quick dry and four-way stretch.
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LEMON JELLY Created by a Portuguese footwear manufacturer with 40 years’ experience of producing injected soles for an array of global brands, Lemon Jelly combines high-tech knowledge with a quirky sensibility, offering fun styles that come in a wide variety of colours and shapes. CANDICE COOPER Footwear brand Candice Cooper is returning to Scoop with another carefully crafted collection of sneakers. Each collection is designed by designers, modellers and technicians in Italy using specialised machines that achieve the unique look of the shoes, including latest laser cutting techniques, while the final touches are still done by hand.
Lemon Jelly
CACHAREL Returning to Scoop for s/s 17 after a successful launch last season, French brand Cacharel is known for quality separates that give modern mix and match dressing a fresh twist. Silhouettes are draped, knotted, and easy to wear but always elaborate, while clean cuts are part of the brand’s new signature.
Maruti
Cacharel
Candice Cooper
MARUTI Thanks to their use of high-quality leathers and fashion prints, Dutch brand Maruti’s shoes are simple but striking. Because the brand works with natural materials, different painting techniques and experimental washings, no one pair is exactly the same. All leftover leather is used to create other products such as bracelets, bags, wallets and belts.
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Lulu Guinness
LULU GUINNESS Iconic London handbag and accessory designer Lulu Guinness will be launching her new footwear range exclusively at Scoop this season. Since its launch in 1989, the brand has always pushed design boundaries and has an enviable celebrity following, including Helena Bonham Carter, Florence Welch, Dita von Teese and Alexa Chung. HARRIS WILSON Summer 2017 at Harris Wilson will be a fresh, graphic collection with an ethnic folk touch evoking travel. The colour palette takes inspiration from the Californian landscapes and desert with sunshine prints and ochre shades. Mixing a 70s vibe of raw textiles, linens, cottons and organic fabrics, the silhouette is feminine and cool.
Des Petits Hauts
Harris Wilson
LAMB 1887 The heir to a fourth generation leather empire, founder Charlotte Lamb brings a wealth of experience from a business originally established by her great grandfather, an artisan cobbler, in 1887. Lamb 1887 handbags are therefore crafted from the softest leathers, carefully sourced from the highest quality tanneries across the globe, with every bag showcasing a luxury finish.
Lamb 1887
DES PETITS HAUTS Spring/summer at Des Petits Hauts is a bright, eclectic mix of easy to wear pieces. The collection focuses on garments that can be layered together – think brightly coloured cotton/cashmere fine knitted cardigans worn over printed silk shirts and dresses, while printed cotton jumpsuits and trousers are mixed with chunky cotton jumpers and cardigans.
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Moda Woman 7-9 August, NEC Birmingham
This season sees Moda Woman strengthen its line-up with a raft of brand new labels exhibiting for the first time. WWB looks ahead at a selection of the show’s inspiring new collections. —
LA GAUCHITA Arriving at Moda from the Netherlands, sister labels L’Argentina and La Gauchita (pictured) bring sporty apparel into the fashion lifestyle arena. Already established throughout Europe, L’Argentina is designed around the culture of polo, and is inspired by the elegant and worldly sportswomen who engage in the game. La Gauchita, meanwhile, is a premium diffusion line with an exclusive identity, targeting women with active lifestyles who seek class and luxury in every aspect of their lives. Discover both labels within Moda White. www.lagauchita.eu Stand V41
MEISIE Showcasing its in-season collection within Moda’s popular Edit area, Spanish label Meisïe offers a range of inspiring and on-trend designs. The label is characterised by bohemian and romantic styling with a wide appeal across the age demographics thanks to its flattering and whimsical shapes. Each piece is also designed to be transitional from season to season, working with the unpredictable climate for a versatile collection that sits seamlessly within a wider offer for both spring and autumn. www.meisie.es Stand Y50
AVENTURES DES TOILES Created around a unique philosophy of wearable art, Aventures des Toiles presents an intriguing collection at Moda White this August. The brand is designed in collaboration with six painters per season, each of whom lends their influence to the creation of a unique print emblazoned across a range of contemporary silhouettes. The brand has been established for 15 years in its native France, but is targeting cutting edge womenswear boutiques and lifestyle retailers looking to be inspired by a collection that shuns trends in favour of making its own rules. www.aventuresdestoiles.com Stand X48
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Moda Woman 7-9 August, NEC Birmingham
MYRINE Arriving at Moda White as part of the MDA International portfolio, Myrine is a Belgian label with a wide yet refined appeal. The brand’s vision is of creating timeless designs in beautiful fabrics, making fashion effortless with its softened colour palette and remaining contemporary through innovative shapes. Myrine is already established across Europe but will strengthen its UK presence with its debut at Moda. www.mdainternational.co.uk Stand W48
VILAGALLO Modern and cosmopolitan, Vilagallo is a Spanish label with an eclectic range of European influences. From the high fashion of Parisian culture to Italian flair, it brings together a striking range of colours and prints in its hallmark – and effortlessly chic – style. The brand will debut at Moda Woman this season as part of the Palladio portfolio of labels. www.vilagallo.es Stand T30
MOSHIKI Arriving from Germany in a blaze of European culture and colour, Moshiki challenges everything conventional in contemporary womenswear. Delighting in creativity, the brand takes inspiration from modern art, Eastern and Western culture and vibrant design to create a truly unique collection of clothing. Look out for clashing colours, asymmetric shapes and embellished trims when the brand debuts at Moda Woman this season. www.moshiki.com Stand S57
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Retailer spotlight:
CAROLINE FLETCHER
RETAILER PUTS JEANS TO THE TEST Leeds indie Accent Clothing enlisted the help of a local gymnast last month to test out the Replay Hyperflex Jeans, which are currently stocked in-store. Nile Wilson performed his training routine in a pair of the jeans, which claim to never lose shape. The store uploaded a video of Wilson performing a number of highintensity exercises to demonstrate the garment’s flexibility to its YouTube channel.
POP-UP HOSTS FASHION BRANDS Last month, retro themed fashion brands including the likes of Silly Old Sea Dog, Lady K Loves and Love ur Look came together at the Pin up Pop up Shop. The pop-up shop ran from 10-14 June at London’s Old Truman Brewery, and attracted brands showcasing reproduction designs from the 40s and 50s. At the launch event featuring a live DJ and swing dancers, guests were invited to dine on champagne and nibbles while being offered discounts and makeovers from The Painted Lady.
Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry
HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE , LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEB SITE , ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT REBECCA . JACKSON@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.
Web watch:
WWW.ATOMRETRO.COM
Specialising in retro, mod and indie clothing, UK-based Atom Retro launched in 2004 and has since become a one-stop shop for 60s style. Inspired by Carnaby Street’s swinging sixties boutiques, the online store aims to bring high-end authentic brands to its online customer. Styles online follow a distinct retro or vintage appearance and include the likes of Emily & Fin, John Smedley, Friday on my Mind, Mademoiselle Yéyé, Dr Martens and Lee Jeans. The store also stocks new and edgy independent designers such as Gonsalves & Hall and Madcap England.
Founder of Weave Womenswear, Heaton Moor, Stockport What is your current bestseller in-store? Despite a slow start weather-wise, people are now getting their summer wardrobes sorted. We’ve got some gorgeous maxi dresses that have done really well, alongside some of our accessories. One of our bestselling brands is Selected Femme. They have some brilliant, easywear options that are perfect for the office, right through to evening drinks. How have you found trading over the last month? Last month saw us celebrate our first birthday, which was a fantastic milestone. We’ve also just launched our e-commerce site, which has had a really positive impact on trading. What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store? Hosting events (from late night shopping or seasonal shopping nights) is a really good way for us to spend quality time with regulars. Last month we worked with local businesses to organise a charity fashion show, which had a really strong community feel to it. We post out blogs and newsletters, as well as engaging on social media, to let our database know what we’ve got coming up. What’s on your agenda for the coming month? We’re continually looking ahead at what’s happening next season, trawling new trends or attending fashion and trade shows to get a sense of what’s going to be hot on the high street. We’re bringing in lots of new brands for next season as well as planning some exciting new collections.
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Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears
AWARDS HONOUR INDIE BUSINESSES
LAST MONTH, THE MUDDY STILETTO AWARDS RECOGNISED THE BEST IN INDEPENDENT BUSINESS IN OXFORD, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, HERTFORDSHIRE AND THE SURROUNDING REGIONS. THE MUDDY STILETTOS BLOG, DUBBED THE ‘URBAN GUIDE TO THE COUNTRYSIDE’, INCLUDED A TOTAL OF 30 AWARDS CATEGORIES INCLUDING BEST WOMEN’S BOUTIQUE. MELANIE ROLLINSON FROM WOMENSWEAR INDIE WOODIE & MORRIS, HASLEMERE, PICKED UP THE GONG FOR THE SURREY DISTRICT (PICTURED). MEANWHILE, OTHER WINNERS INCLUDED LOLLY & MITCH OF TRING, HERTFORDSHIRE AND ROCKY & KOOK OF AYLESBURY, IN THE BUCKS & OXON DISTRICT.
MAIREAD VICKERS Owner, Buyer & Stylist, Smock Boutique, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow, Ireland With every relationship in life, whether business or personal, we expect to encounter some ups and downs along the way. Particularly important is the relationship between brand representatives and the buyer. In the majority of cases in the eightmonth lifespan of Smock Boutique, everything has gone to plan. On the few occasions an issue has cropped up, we have found it is not the who or why, it is how the situation is handled. I would urge all representatives and brands to be upfront and to keep lines of communication open at all times. It is always better to know exactly where you stand than to be left in limbo. Sometimes the big boys need a reminder that buyers are customers too, and a little give and take can sometimes mean the difference between sale or no sale.
BOUTIQUE’S BLOSSOMING BIRTHDAY Indie retailer M Boutique celebrated its first anniversary last month with an in-store event. The Dundee store hosted an evening to toast one year in business, along with local flower growers Blooming Bees. The event, which also coincided with British Flowers Week, invited guests to attend jam jar flower workshops, visit a Prosecco and flowers pop-up stall and shop the in-store collections with the addition of 20 per cent off all stock.
Q&A:
What are you looking for this trade show season?
ALEXANDRA BOARDMAN
TRICIA STIRLING
HANNAH JENNINGS
JOANNA DAVIES
Owner, Alexandra’s of Keswick, Cumbria
Owner of Vanity Fair, Bearsden, Glasgow and Helensburgh, Argyll
Owner of online retailer, Starburst Boutique, Devon
Owner, Black White Denim, Wilmslow, Cheshire
“I definitely feel there is a gap for the 35/40+ customer looking for trendy, relaxed and glamorous separates. An understated collection with a luxurious look at affordable prices. A lot to ask, I know – but I will keep pounding the shows in the hope that this season I will find it.”
“I am looking for stronger colours such as hot pink and orange mixed with really good base colours such as storm grey, indigo and white. Shape is going to be crucial, especially when it comes to dresses. London-based brand Rixo seems to have some great prints and shapes.”
“I’m looking for good quality, unique brands that can’t readily be found in department stores and large online stores, that provide me with a decent margin and offer in-season swaps, top-ups and newness.”
“Inspiration and ideas! I always try to go with an open mind to the trade shows. The majority of my stock is fairly sourced and traded and so I am always looking for brands with great ethical credentials. I also look for brands where you can top up in-season, since that works well for me.”
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E-tail Clinic
Essential e-commerce advice The expert view: How to send better customer emails Email: the platform we all have a love-hate relationship with. We send and receive hundreds of messages a day, yet studies show email marketing accounts for a large percentage of all e-commerce transactions. Advancements in mobile are driving further growth in buyer engagement and sales. During seasonal events and popular shopping days, the percentages rise even higher: Black Friday 2015 saw 25.1 per cent of orders come from email. Despite the volumes, email remains a difficult medium to master. To help you, below are some ‘magic formulas’ so you can reap the benefits and boost your sales with minimal investment. The ‘before they buy’ email Research: that’s the name of the buying game. Seventy-seven per cent of consumers research their purchases before they even think to shop with you, which means pre-purchase email marketing is essential to get ahead of your competitors. You want to present your brand as informative and helpful, never spammy. Base your emails on useful information that is truly relevant to your audience. Update them about new arrivals. Consider producing guides on different styles, seasons, colours and clothing types. Feed them content regularly and give them a preview of how your products could enhance their lifestyle. This approach will improve the level of trust between you and the buyer. Have you forgotten something? An astonishing number of shopping carts are abandoned (67 per cent). This is because people change their mind for a number of reasons. It could be due to unexpected postage costs or distractions when visiting other websites. When this happens, it’s the prime opportunity to send an ‘abandoned cart email’. You want to win the customer over without being too pushy. Set up an email policy that reminds customers during a specific timeframe. This will let you know who is still interested in purchasing your products. Once you know who still has buying intentions, create a sense of urgency or offer an incentive to close the deal. Thank you for your custom If you want to establish your brand and build a recurring customer list, you should never ignore the post-purchase period. There are lots of options to drive engagement via email after a sale. Ask for a customer review, check the item has been received safely or offer an extra item at a reduced cost. The key objective is to build a robust relationship around strong customer data. After all, the more detailed you can be with emails, the more genuine and reliable your brand will appear. Segmentation is crucial in this context. Emails based on sales triggers, rules and nurture concepts only perform if you have spent considerable time learning who your customer base is. The final area is transactional emails. These are on the same wavelength as the post-purchase stage – i.e. speed is everything. Buyers expect to be kept up to date, and from accepting an order to advising on shipping status, the more reassurance you offer, the better. Customers’ inboxes are a battlefield where you have to fight for space and attention and you should make sure emails have the right tone, approach, content and length. With practice and a healthy dose of customisation, email is a powerful tool for driving sales. Dan Burnham, Head of Customer Success, Volo Commerce
Web chat: GEORGE GRAHAM CEO & co-founder, Wolf & Badger, Mayfair & Notting Hill, London
When did you launch your website and is it transactional? The website relaunched in May 2013 as a transactional site, although its origins stem back to the foundation of Wolf & Badger in 2010. What percentage of your business does your site constitute? The Wolf & Badger website – wolfandbadger.com – now accounts for 86 per cent of overall sales. Are you selling the same stock online as in-store? All of the items carried in our London stores are now available online, but beyond this there are collections available from many other incredible UK and European independent brands. The site now carries over 12,000 SKUs from 700 independent brands, and is expanding quickly. Is your e-commerce arm growing? Online sales are growing at record pace. February 2015 sales were up over 300 per cent year-on-year, and growth continues to accelerate. Sales growth is driven by the continued expansion of our product range and through ongoing marketing initiatives both online and offline, as well as being helped by the acquisition of online jewellery and accessories marketplace Boticca.com last August. What are your plans for the site and how would you like it to develop? In addition to extending the international reach of the site and introducing exciting new brands on a weekly basis, the focus at the moment is around marketing automation using lifecycle marketing tool Ometria, conversion rate optimisation and on-site personalisation.
49.6
%
The percentage of online retail sales made through mobile devices in Q1 2016; the first time a decrease has been recorded (down from 51.3 per cent in previous quarter) since tracking started in 2010.
Of shoppers are satisfied with the online retail returns service, meaning that a significant 39 per cent are not. *Source: IMRG
61
%
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Brand Directory
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Alembika 0161 228 0573 www.alembika.com Angeleye 020 8838 5979 www.angeleyefashion.com Anonyme 020 7702 0203 Atelier Gardeur 020 7580 6244 www.atelier-gardeur.com Bandolera 0031 20 3039563 www.bandolera.com Bedouin 020 763 3988 www.bedouinstudios.com Bitte Kai Rand 07436 645670 www.bittekairand.com Caractere 020 7580 5075 www.caractere.it Crea Concept 020 7436 0631 www.creaconcept.com Diego M 020 7580 5075 www.diegom.it Emily & Fin 020 7812 9992 www.emilyandfin.co.uk Eugen Klein 020 7636 5677 www.eugenklein.de Faber 020 8441 6305 www.faberknitwear.de Fely Campo 07850 788178 Frank Lyman 0141 204 0699 www.franklyman.com FTC Cashmere 0041 41 767 2741 www.ftc-cashmere.com Gershon Bram 01825 733330 www.mdainternational.co.uk Harris Wilson 020 8964 0482 www.harriswilson.fr James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net Jeva www.jevafashion.com 020 3432 6385 Johnstons of Elgin 020 7227 3131 www.johnstonscashmere.com Joules 01858 435261 www.joules.com Kirk Originals 020 7248 1238 www.kirkoriginals.com Lamb 1887 01924 836906 www.lamb1887.com Latte 0141 204 0699 www.latteclothing.com Laurel 020 7608 9100 www.laurel.de Lecomte 020 7636 4207 www.lecomte.de Les100Ciels 020 7580 5075 www.les100ciels.com Lexington 07506 595384 www.lexingtoncompany.com Lost Ink 020 3728 7766 www.lost-ink.co.uk Luisa Cerano 020 7323 6100 www.luisacerano.com Lulu Guinness www.luluguinness.com Marble 01418 826743 www.marblefashions.co.uk Marc Aurel 07906 070081 www.marc-aurel.com Maria Bellentani 020 8940 6470 www.mariabellentani.it Michele 020 7636 4207 www.michele-fashion.com Monari 020 7636 4207 www.monari.de Moya 020 8441 6305 www.moya.eu Mrs and Mrs P 07773 040697 www.mrandmrspagency.com Muehlbauer 0043 1533 5269 www.muehlbauer.at Nu 020 7702 0203 www.nu-denmark.com Oakwood 020 7580 5075 www.oakwood.fr Pia Rossini 028 9146 7999 www.piarossini.com Picadilly 020 7580 3202 www.picadilly.ca Pure by Lucia 020 7636 4207 www.lucia.de Riani 01704 823005 www.riani.de Ronen Chen 020 7458 4019 www.ronenchen.com Scapa 020 7434 1994 www.scapa.com Schneiders 020 7636 4207 www.schneiders.com Smashed Lemon 0800 612 9009 www.smashed-lemon.com Thomas Rath 0049 2161 813647 www.thomas-rath-trousers.com Thomas Rabe 020 7636 4207 www.rabemoden.de Turnover 07906 070081 www.turnover.com Une A Une www.uneaune.com Yacco Maricard 020 7436 8576 www.yaccomaricard.london Zerres 0049 2166 919 300 www.zerres.com
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The Last Word with... Samantha Bain-Mollison Head of retail at Shaftesbury on Newburgh Street, Ron Dorff on Earlham Street and Scalpers on Carnaby Street. We find new brands in a number of ways; by visiting international and UK trade shows, undertaking international research trips and employing consultants. We did a research trip to New York in May, next week I am visiting Seek tradeshow in Berlin and we have a trip to Sweden planned in August. What is the best and worst aspect of your job? Best – I feel that I am working in the best city in the world, and on top of that, working on the best portfolio in the world to provide the best retail offer in the West End. It is a privilege working with a huge variety of retailers who are all striving to be at the top of their game, in innovation, brand experience and marketing. The worst aspect is never having enough time in the day for all the emails! How does it feel to be shaping the fashion retail mix in some of the capital’s most sought-after destinations? As I said above, it is a privilege. One of our main considerations is to build on the existing strengths, characteristics and heritage of an area so that the retail offer always feels authentic. For example, in our Soho portfolio, we focus on retaining a mixture of uses in Berwick Street and keeping original offers and independents such as record shops, fabric shops and tailoring, alongside some suitable fashion and lifestyle operators as well as great cafes, bars and restaurants. What does your role entail? I oversee retail strategy and leasing across the Shaftesbury portfolio which now comprises 14 acres of the West End of London. Our biggest villages include Carnaby, Seven Dials and Soho, all internationally renowned retail and leisure destinations. Shaftesbury’s aim is to ensure we provide distinctive, attractive and prosperous villages and we do this by managing the tenant mix carefully and leasing shops to interesting and innovative retailers. My main role is to make sure we have the right brands. Aside from offering a great retail experience, it is important the brand becomes part of the community too. What does a typical day in your business life look like? A lot of meetings. Usually this will include existing or potential retailers to discuss their trading patterns, plans for their store, new collections, and upcoming marketing initiatives. I also try and walk around our villages to see what is happening on the streets and visit shops which have just opened in our holdings. In the last few months we have had a number of exciting launches from new retailers including Traditional Weatherwear
What is your secret shopping tip in London? The Carnaby and Seven Dials events, a shopping experience with a huge number of freebies but also where you can pick up the best products from the most interesting London stores in the West End. How do you unwind? A glass of red wine, seeing friends, spending time with my family, or doing Lucky Voice Karaoke – with anyone willing. What are your three things on your bucket list? Go to all the F1 Grands Prix. Visit Cuba. Buy a classic white Porsche. What’s your secret talent? Multitasking! What is the best piece of advice you have ever been given? ‘Always do what you said you would do.’ How would you sum up your style? A good pair of heels, and I love mixing high street with cool designer brands.
www.riani.de · Chantelle Wilkinson · Finches Agency · Syd Brook Lane · Mawdesley · L40 2RD · T. 01704 823 005 · Slm4@hotmail.co.uk