MWB MAGAZINE AUGUST ISSUE 233

ISSUE 233 | AUGUST 2016 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

FROM ACROSS THE POND PROFILING CANADIAN OUTWEAR SPECIALIST NOBIS TAILORED TO SUIT ESSENTIAL SUMMER FASHION MILLENNIAL MILESTONES THE SHOPPING HABITS OF THE NEXT GENERATION

PREVIEW PREVIEW OUROUR NEWNEW

SS17 SS17 CO CLOL LE LCETCI O T IN ON AT MODA AT MODA 7TH –7TH 9TH– AUGUST 9TH AUGUST 2016 2016 NEC,NEC, BIRMINGHAM BIRMINGHAM STAND STAND N30 N30 For more For more information information please please contact contact Skopes Skopes Menswear Menswear on: on: 0113 0113 240 2211 240 2211

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NEXT TRADE SHOWS MODA 07 - 09 August 2016 NEC Birmingham, UK Booth O29 PREMIERE CLASSE 02 - 05 September 2016 Paris, France Hall 4 / Booth A61

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 12

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

14

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

20

Millennials: Are you being served?

The shopping habits of Generation Y

23

Business first

The key issues affecting your business

27

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

32

In-season stock

Coat of arms

34

In-season stock

Military action

37

The perfect fit

The success of German trouser specialist Meyer

38

Bespoke by nature

How tailoring label Skopes combines heritage with the cutting edge

41

After 20 years, Benetti hits the UK

What’s next for the menswear label

43

Moda

Previewing the key names attending Moda this season, from tailoring,

footwear and accessories.

56

Movers and shakers

What s/s 17 has in store product-wise

66

Widening the net

Double H Agency on the changing role of an agent

68

Berlin showcase

Snapshots from Premium, SEEK and Panorama

R E G U L A R S 7 8 16

Comment News Interview

Robin Yates

72 75 78

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With‌

Nina Dobson

Front cover:

Frenn 358 40 777 1943

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | COMMENT | 07

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — W R I T E R Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

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In this issue of MWB we take a look at the behaviour and attitudes of the millennials – a vital group of consumers for retailers to sit up and take notice of, especially with a predicted spending power of £8.9bn globally by 2020.

— Millennials, if you’re unfamiliar, are the generation born roughly between 1980 and 2000. The generation brought up with mobile phones, tablets and online shopping. A generation which needs to be acknowledged and understood, to enable brands to tap into a huge amount of potential spending influence.

To work with this group of consumers, the key is to adapt. The ability to adapt is the millennials’ one indispensable life skill. With more freedom and choice than ever, brands need to have liberal and modern values, as well as accepting a diverse way of living to make millennials stop and listen. More brand and media aware than any generation before them, this group of spenders appreciate and value brands which are useful to them and build emotional connections. Truth and authenticity are essential.

Incredibly creative, they recognise the power of innovation, not just in their own lives but the lives of brands. They love brands that are prepared to take a risk, make mistakes and acknowledge when mistakes have been made.

Although a complex generation to understand, acknowledgement is fundamental to the growth of a business and our report on p20 discovers how menswear brands, retailers and marketeers can best reach this group of consumers.

Continuing our focus on issues currently affecting the industry, we take a look at the aftermath of Brexit on p23, with legal expert Stephen Sidkin on hand to discuss the effects on British businesses – something which was at the forefront of everyone’s mind when visiting the European tradeshows last month.

Finally, our August issue takes a look at the forthcoming edition of Moda, from the brands making their debut to the favourites returning to the halls of the NEC – and what a line-up it’s set to be. Be sure to pop by the MWB stand during the three-day event, and for further information and to register visit moda-uk.co.uk. Have a great month and I look forward to seeing many of you there.

Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

MUSTO SET TO EXPAND WHOLESALE BUSINESS

BREXIT: THE IMPACT ON FASHION RETAIL The referendum result in favour of Brexit will ensure that inflation returns to the clothing and footwear sector owing to the sharp decline in the pound and the expectation that it will remain weak for some time, resulting in increased import costs, recent analysis by Verdict Retail has revealed.

A report into the impact of Brexit on UK fashion retail reveals that currency hedging will protect retailers in the short term, but that higher costs are expected to filter in from the back end of Q2 2017. Only once Article 50 is invoked, and new trade agreements are reached will retailers have more visibility on any changes to tariffs that could further drive up costs. Re-evaluation of supply chains will be crucial to remain competitive and Verdict expects retailers to negotiate harder with suppliers as a result.

The report warns that few clothing players will be able to fully absorb increased costs, or risk weakening margins, resulting in price hikes for consumers, which will most likely damage volume growth. With pressure piled on small independents, which are less able to withstand margin erosion compared to larger rivals, there is potential for consolidation in the market. Midmarket players will be able to justify higher prices through investment in style, quality and service; in contrast price increases at value retailers will be much more evident and remaining competitive on price will be crucial to appeal to more prudent shoppers.

“UK consumers now place far more importance on quality and value for money, ensuring that retailers who opt to minimise costs by downgrading the quality of fabric and fit to protect margins will lose favour with shoppers,” says Kate Ormrod, senior analyst at Verdict Retail and author of the report.

“Giving shoppers justification to make a purchase is vital in order to gain favour over competitors, so clothing and footwear retailers must exploit the point of difference in their propositions in order to seize shoppers’ limited spend. Those clothing retailers that channel investment across innovation, technology and responsiveness to further differentiate their proposition will strengthen their position in the market, and allow them to take advantage of the opportunities created by weaker players that do not respond to shifting consumer sentiment or invest in protecting future sales growth,” she adds.

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Performance clothing brand Musto has appointed Steve Jepson as head of sales, shortly after the appointment of Simon Rosenberg as head of retail – representing the brand’s growth plans for 2016.

Reporting to Commercial Director Simon Busby, Jepson will focus on strategies that will strengthen and grow the brand’s core specialist distribution while building a complementary presence in premium department stores and multiple channels. He says: “I am delighted to be joining Musto at this stage in the brand’s development. An iconic British brand which is at the forefront of technical development, it has an excellent distribution network and a strong team in place which I am looking forward to working with as we continue to build customer support, brand awareness and enter the next step of Musto’s drive towards becoming a truly great British brand.”

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PERCIVAL LAUNCHES CROWDCUBE APPEAL Contemporary British clothing label Percival turned to funding platform Crowdcube in search of £250k of investment to help the business develop a wholesale presence and second store opening.

Launching in 2011, Percival was founded by Chris Gove and Luke Stenzhorn and started life as an online store. Following a number of successful pop-ups, the brand opened its first standalone store on Berwick Street, Soho. Percival is now seeking investment to introduce the brand to an international wholesale market and expand current retail revenue.

The crowdfunding platform allows exclusive unique rewards to be gained from investing in the brand, such as a personalised embroidered Vincent jacket – a signature style for the label – and designing your own pieces to be included within the seasonal collection.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | NEWS | 09

NEWS IN BRIEF

REMUS UOMO CELEBRATES 25 YEARS

BARBOUR APPOINTS GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR

Leading menswear label Remus Uomo will mark 25 years in business this year. The brand, which was launched in 1991, has gone from strength to strength in the UK independent retail market, with over 300 wholesale accounts nationwide, as well as flagship stores in Belfast and Glasgow, franchise stores in Ballymena and Galway and concessions across the UK and Europe.

“Reaching our 25th anniversary is a fantastic accomplishment,” says Donald Finlay, managing director of Douglas & Grahame, parent company of Remus Uomo. “However, we’re always looking forward and we have ambitious plans for the coming years with a new website currently in development and recent senior appointments in sales and marketing to drive the brand onwards to even greater success.”

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Scottish actor Sam Heughan has been chosen as Barbour’s first global Brand Ambassador. Heughan is the lead actor in the hit international TV series Outlander, which is filmed on location in Scotland, and will appear in a number of photoshoots and PR appearances as well as working with some of the brand’s key wholesale partners in the UK and US. The partnership will also see Heughan develop his own signature capsule collection incorporating Barbour’s exclusive tartans which are based on the Ayrshire District Tartan from where the Barbour family originated in the 13th century.

“Sam provides us with an opportunity to create some original marketing initiatives that will make this a very special partnership,” says Paul Wilkinson, Barbour’s global marketing director.

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NEW COLLECTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT BELSTAFF

BURBERRY ANNOUNCES NEW LEADERSHIP ROLES

British heritage brand Belstaff has appointed Delphine Ninous to the role of collection creative director, with immediate effect. Previously vice president of women’s design at the brand, Ninous will lead both men’s and women’s design teams.

“In her 18 months with the brand, Delphine has demonstrated her great design capability, her clear vision, and her talent for delivering a consistently strong aesthetic interpretation of the brand into product,” says Belstaff’s CEO, Gavin Haig. “I am hugely excited about her bringing these skills to bear across the whole product design piece of the business.”

Ninous’ key priority will be to develop plans for the presentation of s/s 17 during London Fashion Week this September, and to work on the development of the a/w 17 collection.

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Burberry has announced new roles within its senior team, as part of its ongoing business review that is targeting future growth opportunities in retail, product and digital. Christopher Bailey – cited as driving Burberry’s global success since taking over as CEO in 2013 – will now take on the role of president and chief creative officer, overseeing all elements of the brand and design.

Marco Gobbetti, has been appointed chief executive officer, and will be responsible for all commercial, operational and financial elements of the business. Currently chairman and CEO of French luxury brand Céline, Gobetti will join the board in 2017, with Bailey transitioning to his new role at the same time. Meanwhile, Julie Brown has been appointed to the new role of Chief Operating & Financial Officer, joining the business and the board by early 2017.

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STONE ISLAND OPEN NEW YORK STORE Stone Island has opened its first New York store, located at 41 Greene St, New York, NY 10013. The unique location — a classic SoHo building from 1910 – measures 3,500 sq ft and has undergone significant architectural renovation to create an archetypal Stone Island environment.

Presenting both Stone Island and Stone Island Shadow Project collections, the flagship store will carry special and exclusive products and installations in its dedicated Hub presentation space.

Developed in partnership with Marc Buhre, an industrial designer from Heidelberg and founder of the architecture studio Zeichenweg TM, Stone Island New York fuses the location’s quintessential SoHo high ceilings and structural columns with Stone Island’s customary fixtures and fittings constructed from innovative materials such as dibond, carbon fibre, fibreglass and coloured glass walls.

— NEARST AIMS TO ADD £4BN A YEAR TO UK HIGH STREET Retail tech start-up NearSt aims to bridge £4bn in sales for high street retailers in the UK by connecting products in local shops to smartphones. The platform allows people to order products for instant collection and 1-hour delivery, beating any other existing offer from online site such as Amazon. NearSt, which is backed by TrueStart, Europe’s leading retail and consumer accelerator and investment fund, has launched its website, www.near.st and mobile app through which consumers, initially in London, will be able to buy books across the city. Later this month it will expand to offer thousands more products including consumer electronics, DIY goods, health and beauty products, sportswear, stationary and gift shop services.

“Why would anyone wait for a package to arrive from across the world, when you can instantly get it from a shop minutes away from you?” says Nick Brackenbury, chief executive, NearSt. “The only thing missing is a simple connection between products on the shelves of real nearby businesses and shoppers’ smartphones.”

— OMEGA EXPANDS INTO EYEWEAR Omega, the iconic Swiss watchmaker, and Marcolin Group, one of the world’s leading eyewear companies, have announced an exclusive collaboration to create Omega branded sunglasses. The first summer collection will be available exclusively in Omega boutiques around the world from this month, with inspiration for the sunglasses taken from the brand’s strong heritage and timepiece design. “This is an exciting step for Omega because it leads our brand into new areas of creativity,” says Raynald Aeschlimann, President and CEO, Omega. “With our long history, there is real brand substance and authenticity to work with and we have ensured that it is truly represented in every pair of sunglasses. It’s also been beneficial to share this project with Marcolin Group, as their renowned expertise and background with high-level brands has allowed us to produce some fantastic products. For customers, this is a chance to find new ways to express personal style and a passion for our brand.”

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | NEWS | 10

NEWS IN BRIEF

ASOS UNVEILS ONE-HOUR SLOT DELIVERY OPTION

OXFORD STREET TO BE PEDESTRIANISED BY 2020

In a bid to offer the most flexible and personable delivery on the high street, global e-tailer Asos is set to allow customers the choice of day and exact hour for receiving their orders, using courier service DPD, and its new delivery option, Precise.

“Precise is a huge leap forward on our customer focused delivery proposition,” says Matt Rogers, director of delivery solutions, Asos. “Our customers love getting their deliveries quickly and tell us they want control and choice over how and when their parcels arrive.”

Like most delivery companies, DPD notifies Asos customers by email or text of their next day delivery slot. The difference is the customer will be able to choose either the original delivery slot via the notification, or to change it to a preferred hour.

Deliveries are despatched seven days a week between 11am and 5pm.

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Oxford Street is set to be completely pedestrianised by 2020, if changes by London Mayor Sadiq Khan are carried out. According to a report by the BBC, the plan is to ban all traffic, including buses and taxis, from the world famous shopping street in an effort to combat air pollution and make shopping a safer experience. The ban will take place in two stages, with the first phase directed at the eastern section of the street, between Tottenham Court Road and Oxford Circus. There is already a ban on cars on most of Oxford Street between 7 am and 7 pm each day, apart from Sunday.

“The key to any Oxford Street improvements is a very significant reduction of buses that move through the area and we need to ensure that traffic is not displaced creating congestion and air pollution elsewhere,” Philippa Roe, the leader of Westminster Council, told the BBC. —

JUNE SEES CONSUMER SPENDING SLOW

LULULEMON TO OPEN ON REGENT STREET

Consumer spending slowed in June, with only a 0.9 per cent annual rate growth in the UK, according the Visa’s UK Consumer Spending Index. Amid economic and political uncertainty, the report revealed June rounds off the weakest quarterly growth in two years, with Visa stressing that the full impact of the referendum result has yet to be felt.

It states that the 2016 second quarter ending 30 June had witnessed the weakest spending since the first quarter of 2014, with June growth being only slightly more than May’s 0.8 percent annual growth, which had then marked a 27-month low. The index, which was compiled by Markit on behalf of the financial company, is based on spending on Visa debit, credit, and prepaid cards, which together accounts for one-third of all spending in the country.

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Technical athletic apparel company, Lululemon – famed for its yoga-inspired sportswear – is set to open a new 8,200 sq ft European flagship store this winter on London’s Regent Street. In collaboration with Regent Street landlord The Crown Estate, the Canadian lifestyle brand’s new flagship store will span three floors at 187-189 Regent Street.

“Lululemon’s new flagship on Regent Street will showcase the brand’s fantastic range of cutting edge, technical sportswear, providing a truly unique and innovative in-store experience for shoppers,” says Katerina Mercury, Asset Manager for The Crown Estate’s Regent Street Portfolio.

The letting forms part of The Crown Estate’s ongoing £1bn investment programme for Regent Street, which has, since 2002, transformed the area into the world’s most popular retail and leisure destination.

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JOHN LEWIS PARTNERS WITH MYER British retailer John Lewis is expanding its international presence with a partnership with Australian department store Myer to open shop-in-shops within six of its branches, along with news that JohnLewis.com now delivers to 40 countries, up from 33.

The first shop-in-shop will open in December in Myer’s newly refurbished Warringah store in the outskirts of Sydney. This will be followed by additional openings in Melbourne, Perth, Bondi, Chadstone, and Myer’s flagship store in Sydney in February 2017.

The departments will be between 600 sq ft and 850 sq ft in size and will house key John Lewis own brand home and lifestyle products across bed, bath, and living.

— REPORTER ITALY TO RE-LAUNCH INTO UK MARKET NP Agency, the British company which currently manages UK sales for a number of key brands including Ingram and Pancaldi shirts, is helping to relaunch Reporter Italy into the UK market under the guidance of the Fabio Inghirami group. A luxury high fashion tailoring collection, the brand offers a forward order collection for s/s 17, alongside a comprehensive NOS programme to cater for retailers in season. Sarah Pinnock of NP Agency is coordinating sales appointments, available until 9 September 2016.

— FLANNELS OPENS IN GATESHEAD Premium fashion retailer Flannels has opened its doors at the Intu Metrocentre, Gateshead, adding to its current portfolio that includes Manchester, Liverpool, Birmingham and Leeds. Opening last month, the 9,000 sq ft store offers contemporary menswear and womenswear, footwear and accessories from the likes of Hugo Boss, Kenzon, Jimmy Choo, Y-3 and Moschino.

— FAT BUDDHA OPENS FLAGSHIP IN GLASGOW Men’s fashion retailer Fat Buddha has opened a new flagship store in the centre of Glasgow’s key shopping area. Located on Queens Street, the store is spread over two floors, with the ground floor stocking brands such as Nike, Patagonia and Adidas, while the basement covers street-art supplies like spray paint, sketch books and paint pans.

“After two years of scouring the city for the perfect location, we are absolutely delighted to finally be able to open our new flagship store,” says Leslie Doherty, owner, Fat Buddha. “The new space is inspired by the local architecture, and has a striking monochrome look to it. The Queen Street area is where I managed my first retail stores 23 years ago, so this really does feel like a homecoming.”

— FASHION SVP RETURNS The next edition of leading manufacturing show Fashion SVP will take place on 15-16 November at London’s Olympia. Held over two days, the event offers the latest information on sourcing, hosting a handpicked selection of manufacturers able to meet the varied demands of retailers, brands, designers and large importers.

Leading suppliers from the UK, Europe and Mediterranean region will be present, showcasing their products and services.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | ADVICE | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: THE FUTURE OF MOBILE: WHAT’S IN-STORE?

RICHARD KOLODYNSKI is the senior vice president of European Operations at iVend Retail www.ivend.com

If there’s one buzzword that keeps coming up for fashion brands and retailers, it’s mobile. And, part of the reason that this is such a hot topic for retail businesses is the vast potential mobile offers.

Done right, mobile has the potential to revolutionise the customer experience. Yet, while many organisations are already seeing the benefits to be gained from a mobile-first e-commerce strategy, most are not using this platform to its full capability in an omnichannel environment.

Here we explore how this channel, which most consumers live their lives through, can be harnessed to drive greater conversion and improve customer experience.

Mobile is key to uniting digital and physical retail Omnichannel can be an overused word, but the reason we’re still talking about it is because we haven’t yet delivered it. Indeed, our recent consumer research showed 40 per cent of UK shoppers thought they were more likely to have a disappointing experience in the store than online. This suggests fashion retailers are falling short of meeting the high levels of personalisation customers have become accustomed to receiving online and now expect to be mirrored across all channels, including the physical environment.

Mobile is the best way to bring digital shopping capabilities into the physical environment – whether that’s looking up inventory at the shelf edge, placing orders for items available online that are out of stock in-store, or drawing on product information or reviews to convert an in-store sale.

Mobile loyalty is a powerful advocacy channel Data analytics can help empower store associates to personalise shopper experiences, and business intelligence will have a powerful impact on loyalty schemes too. Mobile is the one device that consumers use during their e-commerce and bricks-and-mortar retail encounters, and so presents the ideal channel through which to run loyalty schemes.

Not only that, but store staff can use this data to tailor customer experiences based on their lifetime value. In addition to encouraging further spending, a mobile loyalty scheme is also likely to generate greater organic take-up, as customers recommend it to their family and friends.

Today’s omnichannel shoppers don’t differentiate between channels; they just shop using the option that’s most convenient to them at the time – be it online, in-store or via a smartphone device. This makes delivering a seamless experience all the more important. Shoppers don’t separate channels, so fashion retailers must ensure fluidity and visibility between them, and this is where mobile can bridge the digital divide.

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WEB WATCH

WWW.THRILLIST.COM Covering everything from food to travel to fashion and fitness, Thrillist brings together the very best of what’s happening in key cities around the world. With London being a particular focus, you can stay on top of dining, drinks, nightlife, entertainment and gadgets that fit your lifestyle.

Get on the daily email list for exclusive information on cities such as New York, Paris, Berlin and of course our very own capital – perfect for those show season moments when you’re travelling overseas.

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NEWS

MOBILE EXPERIENCE MAKES OR BREAKS CUSTOMER LOYALTY Over two thirds of consumers would be unlikely to do business with the same organisation again following a bad mobile experience, a new study by technology specialists LogMeIn reveals.

The report ‘Effective Mobile Engagement Report 2016’, interviewed 8,000 consumers across Europe, the US, India, Australia and New Zealand, and found that on average only 52 per cent of respondents reported that they were satisfied with their last mobile engagement with a business, down from the 59 per cent in 2015.

Those interviewed reported that 27 per cent of all their purchases in the last 12 months were made on mobile devices and 79 per cent of consumers have made at least one purchase via their mobile device in the last year. Reports suggest that by 2018, 50 per cent of all e-commerce purchases will be made via a mobile device.

This satisfaction decline is linked to customers becoming increasingly frustrated with the lack of support available through a mobile website or app.

Easy to find contact information ranks highest among factors that ensure a good mobile experience, while 72 per cent added that they have abandoned a session because it was too difficult to initiate contact.

Security is also an important factor, with 71 per cent of consumers reporting that they would spend more money via their mobile device if one or more concerns were addressed. Meanwhile, 35 per cent believe it should be easier to compare products on the mobile device and 33 per cent cited lack of confidence in the security of e-commerce sites and apps as a significant issue.

“There are more ways than ever for companies to engage with customers and mobile is a vital part of a company’s e-commerce success,” said Dave Campbell, vice president of product marketing for customer engagement and support and LogMeIn. “Customers expect a seamless experience and access to information across all of the channels and devices they use. While not meeting these demands can come with an enormous price tag, a good mobile experience can create a competitive differentiator, drive revenue, and turn prospects into loyal customers.”

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MIDLANDS, SOUTH AND CHANNEL ISLANDS SIMON BEARD Phone: 079 32 172944 Email: simonbeard3@aol.com WALES, NORTH, CHESHIRE AND SCOTLAND ROB DAVIES Phone: 077 87 79 38 63 Email: rabcharl@freenetname.co.uk

DIGEL.DE

MODA, BIRMINGHAM 07.08. - 09.08.2016 HALLE 19, STAND M29

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT Melissa Wheeler speaks to FREDDY COLE, director of W.E Cole Ltd in Epping, Essex. W.E Cole is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

GANT TO OPEN NEW GLOBAL FLAGSHIP ON REGENT STREET Lifestyle label Gant is set to open a new global flagship store at 184-186 Regent Street, relocating from its current Regent Street Store, where it has been based for seven years. The new flagship will see the brand design an entirely fresh in-store concept over two floors, showcasing Gant, Gant Diamond G and Gant Rugger. “We are very excited about opening a new Gant Regent Street store that will offer the House of Gant featuring an attractive and contemporary setting,” says Fergus Patterson, managing director of Gant UK and Ireland.

The letting forms part of The Crown Estate’s ongoing £1bn investment programme for Regent Street, which boasts an impressive array of flagship stores from some of the world’s key brands. “It’s fantastic news that Gant’s iconic smart/casual clothing and classic American sportswear will continue to be a defining feature of Regent Street’s fashion line-up,” says Katerina Mercury, asset manager for The Crown Estate’s Regent Street portfolio. “Regent Street’s transformation into one of the world’s most popular fashion and lifestyle destinations has been driven by flagship offerings from leading modern brands like Gant, so we’re delighted to be working with them to deliver an exciting new store.”

— NEWS IN BRIEF ANIMAL OPENS BLUEWATER STORE Animal, the UK action sports and lifestyle brand, has opened a new store in Kent’s Bluewater Shopping Centre. Located in the Upper Rose Gallery, the 1,722 sq ft store will house all the latest Animal collections, featuring lifestyle wear and accessories. To celebrate the launch, Animal hosted a live yoga event in-store, with the first 50 customers each receiving a free goodie bag.

There were additional promotional activities in-store throughout the launch weekend, including the chance to win an exclusive surf and yoga retreat with Animal Advocates Philly Lewis and three-time British Surf Champion, Alan Stokes.

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HAVAIANAS OPENS IN WESTFIELD LONDON Havaianas has launched its largest flagship in the UK at Westfield London. The 90 sq m store is part of the brand’s retail expansion, which includes recent launches in Barcelona, Rome, Portugal and Mallorca. The Westfield London store stocks footwear styles including the traditional Brazil Logo model, the Special Collection featuring Swarovski crystals and the Origine espadrille styles.

The store will also stock two 2016 designer collaborations: Liberty x Havaianas and Charlotte Olympia x Havaianas. The splitlevel premises features a window designed and installed by Double Retail Limited, which is unique to the UK store and Europe.

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As ever, this buying season we shall be scrutinising our sell-throughs in an effort to buy strategically. The results of the previous season offer us great insight into what it is our customer wants as their needs evolve and as we seek to attract the next generation.

We have found that while the big international brands still perform well, the market appears to be saturated with the ‘big names’ and the sales of those lines have slowed. The overall trend in our store has been growth of our smaller ticket items, especially those with a strong point of difference which offer something new.

We have been mindful to orientate our product mix slightly to include lines and styles which will not only attract a younger customer but which will inspire our existing, loyal customers who have been shopping with us for many years. Our core customer base is in the 35–65 years range, although the more mature among them are now very much looking for newness and less conservative styles. Our strongest performing brands are certainly those which have adapted and evolved and had the courage to tweak their styles without compromising their signature handwriting.

Of course, when a product works it really shows. Barbour continues to be one of our most consistent performers and is also an example of a brand which has carefully repositioned itself to combine classic styles with fashion. The classic wax jackets still sell well, but the lightweight sand coloured style they brought out for s/s 16 sold out as soon as it arrived. It reassured us that our customer is prepared for and hungry for something slightly different and that we can confidently bring them more adventurous styles next season. Introducing newness, colour and a variety of prints need not compromise fit or quality and we feel that the brands we work with deliver on all levels. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: JONNY GEORGE What concerns have you had to deal with this summer season?

It’s been a poor season on the whole. A lack of footfall has been the major observation. We've noted that, especially on weekends, we have a very good conversion rate of people coming in and buying, but the footfall numbers have been down. Add to that the lack of warm weather and the Brexit effect, (and Norwich City getting relegated), and it’s been pretty shambolic all round. It’s turned around slightly in recent weeks but I can't wait for the new season to begin.

Looking ahead at the new season, how confident are you?

Autumn/winter is where we make our money. The collections are more diverse and the price tags are higher, so we're not so dependent on footfall. We, like many independents, get through spring/summer to make our money in the autumn/ winter. I'm confident for next season. We have six new brands being introduced, which freshens up the brand list, including BD Baggies, Pointer and Human Scales.

JONNY GEORGE, BUYER, ELEMENTS, NORWICH

What further changes will you be making to make your business stronger?

Looking at how s/s 16 panned out, I will be readdressing how I buy for s/s 17. I will focus purely on buying for the first four months: February, March, April and May. I will cut back on high summer goods such as shorts, vests, polos and flip-flops as these just sit in store ready to be put in the sale in June, which is when everyone seems to go on Sale – just as the sun decides to come out. We will also react more in- season than ever before. And we have a new website ready to go live for this autumn.

IN FOCUS: POTTERS OF BUXTON TERRACE RD, BUXTON SK17 6DR

ESTABLISHED: 1860 BRANDS: BOWN OF LONDON, CALVIN KLEIN, CREW CLOTHING COMPANY, DENTS, DOUGLAS & GRAHAME, FARAH, GURTEEN, HAPPY SOCKS, HJ HALL SOCKS, JOCKEY, SLOGGI, LLOYD ATTREE & SMITH. MEYER, OLYMP, PETER ENGLAND, SEIDENSTICKER, VIYELLA, WRANGLER

ROAMERS & SEEKERS RELOCATES POP-UP STORE After a successful seven month pop-up debut in the Old City area of Bristol, lifestyle brand Roamers & Seekers has relocated to the fashion district in the city. The Bristol label also houses a number of brands within its store, including Rains, Men’s Society, MWC Watches and The Rice Co. Open Monday–Saturday, 10am-6pm, the store is located on 77 Park Street, BS1 5PF. —

NEWS IN BRIEF Occupying the same location since 1870, over 156 years Potters has been able to distil its excellent service, which has been passed down to each generation. Going forward, the plan is for evolution, rather than revolution, ensuring that their products and superior traditional personal service remain the centre of everything they do. Matthew Nuttall, company director and son of owner John Nuttall, has worked at the shop for seven years, since he was 13, initially helping out where he could on a Saturday, while also working in his spare time on the website. Today the online side equates to 45 per cent of Potters' overall business.

“My job is now very different to when I started, and being a small family business we work as a team on all areas of our business together between my sister, father and I,” says Matthew. “We were certainly surprised to receive such a positive piece on our shop in Bill Bryson’s latest UK focused travel book, The Road to Little Dribbling. It really is a fantastical vision of our shop. But it has certainly brought in quite a few people inquiring about Seidensticker ‘Splendesto’ shirts, which has been a great way of introducing them to the brand and their great shirts.”

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BRITISH LAND SELLS DEBENHAMS LONDON FLAGSHIP BUILDING Property company British Land has confirmed that it has exchanged contracts for the sale of 334-338 Oxford Street, London, currently home to Debenhams’ flagship store, for £400m.

The seven-storey building, which is located near Bond Street Underground Station in London’s core West End shopping district, will continue to house Debenhams as they have a deal to let the entire building until 2039.

News of the sale comes after British Land also made 11 other long-term leases, including River Island, totalling 50,000 square feet and £2.1m in rent, since the European Union referendum result last month.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | INTERVIEW | 16

INTERVIEW

ROBIN YATES Canadian brand Nobis celebrates its 10th anniversary in 2017, and founder Robin Yates sees big potential to grow the brand in the UK. As the former Vice President at Canada Goose, he knows a thing or two or about achieving success through a real belief in the product, as Tom Bottomley discovers.

— Tom Bottomley: Why did you leave your role as VP of Canada Goose back in 2006 having steered the brand to so much sales growth and success?

Robin Yates: Without getting controversial, it really came down to philosophical differences in commitment to consumer satisfaction.

— TB: How did you go about setting up the new brand 10 years ago?

RY: Really it was based on the dissatisfaction of a high percentage of my former clients in that they were purchasing a jacket that they could literally go out and ‘conquer the world in’, but the basis elements of city weather meant customers weren’t satisfied by the nature of the product. So the foundation of Nobis was to create a lighter jacket, with nicer styling and more fitted silhouettes, which is more in line with what today’s consumer wants in terms of fashion/function.

— TB: What’s special about your products?

RY: We exclusively use Canadian down in our product and, due to the nature of the down being in larger clusters, it creates greater volume with less physical weight. To make our jackets waterproof, windproof and breathable was another no-brainer for today’s customer needs.

We also put in magnetic closures to reduce the

FOUNDER & MANAGING DIRECTOR NOBIS

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Velcro which can catch on scarves and damage the fabric. We probably spend probably $25 to $30 more cost on our jackets than our main competitors to create this high level of functionality. The materials and production we use creates an environment that lets you wick away moisture, yet really insulate from the outside elements, without having all the bulkiness.

It really creates that desirable balance of having a good appearance without forsaking the comfort of a truly functional garment. We source and produce globally, always looking for the best materials and high end facilities.

— TB: Are you doing anything in conjunction with the 10th anniversary?

RY: We’re shortly moving into a new and much larger head office and facility just outside of Toronto, which in itself is a big celebration of our continuing success, enabling us better positioning for further growth. We have events planned in various major centres of our core markets to celebrate the 10th. We were in a way forced to by our fan base, supporters and partners to ramp it up a bit. Ten years isn’t a long time in history, but having gotten to this point before with another brand, and not enjoyed the celebration, I think we’re going to do our best to take a step back, take a breath and enjoy the moment. We’re among the top brands in the world, and we’re growing exponentially, so we’ve got a lot to celebrate.

— TB: Is the product similar to Canada Goose?

RY: It’s completely different. In the more extreme cases they make for Arctic expeditions where the weather is always freezing. We’re much more focused on city living and different performance levels of garments with versatility being key, also considering how the climate constantly changes.

On any given day we can see a number of different weather elements that can challenge your comfort. Our jackets can also adapt to different circumstances, such as hoods that detach to change the look of a jacket. I’ve been flattered with the comparison that we’re like a technical Moncler. We have an edgier fashion feel

than functional outerwear.

— TB: What kind of stores are currently selling Nobis in the UK? RY: We’re flattered to have a growing list of good stores carrying our products in the UK, such as Harrods, Jules B, Philip Browne, Accent, Autograph, Union 22 and Choice. We started to get some significant traction in the UK a couple of years ago, so there’s been a bigger drive for this a/w 16 through Robert Excell at The Gallery Agency. Our down-filled parkas start at around £695. We have a lot of faith in the UK market, and we have a real long-term ambition to grow it.

— TB: What are the key styles?

RY: Our classic men’s piece is the ‘Yatesy’, which is what my old hockey team nicknamed me. It continues to be our number one men’s parka. But globally we’ve introduced new pieces as well which have done a good job within their sectors, and we continue to introduce new styles all the time. On the more fashion side we’ve introduced leather sleeves. We also create fabrics that have that real hand feel of traditional fabrics, but with the integrity to repel or resist water.

— TB: Are you mainly an autumn/winter focused brand by the nature of your products?

RY: In short, it’s difficult to make a jacket for a sunny day, but we’ve always made a point of not being pigeonholed just as a winter product company. We’ve always offered transitional pieces and, in so doing, we create a diverse range of products that aren’t insulated but are weatherproof and seamsealed. The reality of today’s weather patterns means it’s very much about the variables and unpredictability. For that matter we’re paying a lot of attention to packable, storable and lightweight outerwear. We have a number of pieces that resonate very well in that category – including the ‘Porter’

raincoat for men and the ‘Justice’ trenchcoat for women. We’ve also now constructed a new fabrication and created a new technical jersey, which we’ve made jackets with. It’s like ‘luxury casual’ really. We always want to maintain an element of style and expression with our products. Our mandate is very much about being innovative in the way we approach and produce what we do.

— TB: Do you also have an own retail strategy in place?

RY: We don’t have an unfolding retail flagship store model in place, but we do look at certain situations that suit in terms of partnerships with distributors. We also partnered in Toronto with an existing retailer we were already doing business with. We decided to join forces with them and create a flagship shop in our own back yard.

Initially some of the other retailers were upset about it, thinking we were now moving in to their territory of bricks and mortar. But, when I told them the couple we were dealing with were actually facing a big rent increase, and asked if we could help to come up with a workable solution – as well as put a face on the brand in the process, then it was better understood. We were a big part of their business anyway. We’ve always tried to be solid partners, and our bricks and mortar partners are the most important for us.

They allow us to be showcased alongside like brands in that category.

In Korea we have a different business model, and we have about 10 Nobis stores there now. We have also had a location in Paris in the past, with our distributor there, and we are probably going to approach that again in 2017. But our strength is in our bricks and mortar wholesale relationships, and we’re not trying to carve our way in to that retail/ consumer purchase price area.

We want to grow within our retail partners.

“ We’re flattered to have a growing list of good stores carrying our products in the UK, such as Harrods, Jules B, Philip Browne, Accent, Autograph, Union 22 and Choice.”

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MILLENNIALS: ARE YOU BEING SERVED? Initiative, a London-based communications agency that is part of a large global network, has spent five years conducting extensive global research into the behaviour and attitudes of millennials. MWB’s Laura Turner takes a look at the findings to discover how menswear brands, retailers and marketeers can best reach this vital group of consumers.

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Millennials, the generation born roughly between the years of 1980 to 2000, who were brought up using digital technology and mass media, make up around a quarter of the UK’s population according to the Inkling Millennial Report 2015, with the figure predicted to hit 17 million by 2019. It is estimated that this techsavvy lot will have a spending power of £8.9bn globally by 2020.

Understandably, businesses are now beginning to take the topic of millennials and how best to cater for them very seriously. In April, London hosted the world’s first millennial

business conference, The Millennial 20/20 Summit, which was launched by entrepreneurs Rupa Ganatra and Viktoria de Chevron Villette.

Recognising the importance of millennials and why businesses should be reaching out to them, the event gathered brands, businesses and industry leaders who are targeting the millennial generation.

Playing host to 150 speakers covering a multitude of topics, the event looked at marketing, retail, design, mobile, payments, video, social, e-commerce, CRM, big data and merchandising.

The definitive message that ran throughout the

summit was that constant innovation and creativity are essential factors for any business wishing to stay relevant in a millennial-driven market place.

In the words of the event’s co-founder, de Chevron Villette, “Change is unavoidable because the generation now taking control of wealth and spending has developed a very different, tech-obsessed consumer taste.

Adapting and reacting has never been so necessary for a consumer related company, brand, start-up or investor.”

Acknowledging millennials as an audience

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with distinct needs requires insight into what makes this customer tick. Initiative’s research into millennials saw it speak to 10,000 25-34 year-old men and women in 19 countries, supplementing this with online qualitative groups in six of the key markets and interviews with industry experts.

Initiative asked millennials about their lives, their mindsets, how they use technology and how they feel about brands. It also sought to debunk some of the myths and assumptions surrounding millennials – are they really as narcissistic and entitled as we are led to believe?

To establish an overview of this generation, Initiative’s research identified three common themes amongst global millennials.

have more choice and freedom to live their lives as they wish. This has produced the most creative generation yet, defined by its adaptability and resilience. Social media and emerging technology allows them to collaborate, share and work in ever more personal, fulfilling and flexible ways.

Money is a big source of worry for millennials.

Traditionally, brands have targeted this group because they are likely to have a higher disposable income. However, it is lack of money that is driving feelings of anxiety for millennials, irrespective of whether they have children.

Therefore, despite millennials having a greater sense of freedom from cultural constraints, economics mean they are living in the moment and cannot think about planning ahead.

Millennials acknowledge that they have a lot more choice about how they live their lives; however, this greater freedom brings with it insecurity and uncertainty. So, another tension exists for this generation between having more choices, but in a less fair world, which further underlines how important it is for millennials to be open-minded and adaptable. What this means for brands is that there is an expectation of liberal and modern values and an acceptance of diverse ways of living. When brands don’t acknowledge this, or don’t promote choice and freedom, they can be seen as ‘stuffy’ and out of touch to millennials.

— TIPS FOR BRANDS: • Millennials aren’t kids anymore; they are adults with all of the expectations and responsibilities of adulthood, even if they are delaying some of the traditional signifiers.

• Millennials like brands that are inclusive and diverse and understand the myriad of choices that they are making in their own lives.

• As millennials are defined by their personal circumstances, they appreciate and value brands that are useful to them and build emotional connections. They prize truth and authenticity in brands.

• Millennials are more brand and media aware than any generation before them. They have differing expectations of large global brands and smaller ones. They judge customer service and experience of large brands with much less tolerance.

• Understand that millennials know how much power they have as customers, so treat them with respect and as equals.

• Pricing is important – remember how millennials feel about their financial situation.

THEME 1:

THEME 2:

ADAPT ‘The ability to adapt is the millennials’ one indispensable life skill and the filter through which they see the world.’

COLLABORATE ‘The way millennials use technology informs how marketing should evolve.’

“ Change is unavoidable because the generation now taking control of wealth and spending has developed a very different, tech-obsessed consumer taste. Adapting and reacting has never been so necessary for a consumer related company, brand, start-up or investor.”

A tension exists for millennials between living in a global economy that feels increasingly competitive, alongside a strong sense that they

Technology is playing an enormous role in shaping who the millennial generation is and how it behaves. The idea of ‘competition’ has been drilled into millennials: in order to succeed in a

world with fewer jobs and more uncertainty, they need to be more adaptable and creative to compete.

The growth and influential power of online research and product opinion has reinforced the use of social media, transforming what was just a way to connect with friends into a marketing instrument.

— TIPS FOR BRANDS: • To target millennials, build your strategy from the smartphone out. Be where they are; make your brand more visual and take your lead from their social media behaviour.

• View brand reviews through a global lens.

• Learn from the energy and enthusiasm with which millennials share opinion and advice online for no obvious reward. Traditionally, brands and businesses have seen the sharing of information as a sign of weakness or competitive risk; learn how to give more freely with no immediate or short-term gain. Brands that give to receive in the short term run a heavy risk of alienating a smart millennial audience.

THEME 3: CREATE ‘Millennials recognise the power of innovation and creativity in their own lives, but also in the lives of brands’.

Millennials present continual, creative reinvention. We are seeing a new paradigm of delaying ‘settling’, continued ‘upskilling’, multiple jobs – often simultaneously – and the aspiration to work for oneself.

Millennials have been taught that start-ups and owning your own business are true measures of success. There is growing realisation that being self-employed gives people more freedom to live their life as they want to live.

— TIPS FOR BRANDS: • Millennials have grown up with a huge respect for innovation and creativity. They are what differentiates both themselves and brands from everyone else.

• Millennials love brands that are prepared to take risks, make mistakes and importantly, acknowledge when mistakes are made.

• Millennials love to be involved by brands in the creative process, so give them the means to be more creative.

• See every engagement as a potential touchpoint to be creative and do things differently. It will build loyalty and respect for your brand.

Everything from your delivery person to how you do research is an opportunity to build a connection.

— Research provided by: Initiative www.initiative.co.uk 020 7663 7000

M O N D AY 8 T H A U G U S T Join us at The Highline, the fabulous new bar and dining experience at Resorts World, Birmingham for the most glamorous Moda Party so far. The Highline is just a short walk from the Moda halls and we’ll have drinks waiting for you from 7pm. Book your place now!

To book your tickets contact Grace Marsh on +44 (0)1484 848328 or grace.marsh@moda-uk.co.uk

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BUSINESS FIRST Experts from across the board address some of the key issues affecting independent retail in the current climate.

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BREXITING THE FUTURE OF UK BUSINESS Stephen Sidkin, commercial law partner at Fox Williams LLP, takes a look at how businesses will be affected following the UK’s decision to leave the European Union.

Then the fourth angel sounded his trumpet, and a third of the sun and moon and stars were struck. A third of the stars were darkened, a third of the day was without light, and a third of the night as well. [Revelation 8:12] And yet since the announcement of the result of the UK’s referendum about its future with the European Union, so far as UK businesses are concerned there has been no discernible change in the previous pattern of doing business. But the designs of business will change irrespective of what replaces the UK’s existing trade relationship with the EU. Already there are forecasts of an increase in inflation. It follows that a business which fails to build into its contracts an inflation indexing provision is simply giving its customer an opportunity to make a greater margin on resale.

Correspondingly, UK businesses sourcing from overseas which do not include a currency conversion clause in their purchasing contracts are asking for trouble. The immediate fall in the pound on 24 June 2016 has been nowhere near reversed.

But on the plus side, buying UK assets – brands or trophy stores – in US dollars or pretty much any currency (excluding Bank of Toytown) has become a whole lot cheaper.

For those British businesses not falling prey to overseas buyers, uncertainty can be expected to translate itself to an increasing use of popups and the taking of concessions in department stores.

And what of legal issues? The referendum will not in itself have any immediate implications in legal terms – it could take years before the UK

exits the EU officially – but good lawyers who look to try and achieve their clients’ business objectives will consider what the referendum means.

As such, can it be said that the decision to leave the EU has or will frustrate the purpose of a contract, so making it impossible to perform the contract? Possibly. But the English courts have consistently been unimpressed by an argument that a contract is frustrated because it is more expensive to fulfil or more difficult to perform.

But then does the Brexit vote constitute an event of force majeure?

That’s unlikely, as it would be necessary either for the contract to expressly state it to be so or for it to be interpreted as falling within a more general force majeure category, such as the act or decision of a government body.

However, this has still to be tested in the English courts.

Will English choice of law and English court jurisdiction clauses continue to be upheld in the English courts given that these are currently governed by EU regimes? For the time being – yes. But in the future?

Also in the future consideration should be given to whether defined terms need to be revised. For example, the grant of a territorial right referring to the European Union or EU may need to be amended; including in contracts a provision providing for a right of termination depending on the outcome of the terms of the UK’s Brexit agreement with the EU. However, the negotiation of such a provision could be somewhat difficult.

Equally, how will the intellectual property rights of fashion brands fare?

The EU trade mark and the EU design, both pan-European rights, will almost certainly cease to cover the UK and this will result in a need to secure separate rights in the UK. The conversion of existing EU IP rights to national UK rights is likely but on what basis this will be implemented and whether it will involve re-examination of the rights is unclear.

The enforcement of IP rights may also throw up some interesting issues. What happens to a pan-European injunction granted in favour of a non-UK company pre-Brexit? Does it automatically cover the UK post-Brexit or will it need to be registered in the UK to continue in place? This has the potential for reopening a number of hard-won disputes by designers and fashion brands alike.

Finally, what about grey imports? The UK could become a haven for parallel imports and worse, if any transitional provisions on the protection of EU trade marks leave gaps in protection, the rights could be left unprotected if the fashion brand does not already have a UK trade mark in place.

A few years ago Orange claimed, “The future’s bright. The future’s Orange.” Today the future is grey as we try and see through an interesting period in the history of the UK. STEPHEN SIDKIN Commercial law partner, with contribution from Simon Bennett, intellectual property law partner at Fox Williams LLP (www.foxwilliams.com)

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HOW TO SEND BETTER CUSTOMER EMAILS Email: the platform we all have a love-hate relationship with. We send and receive hundreds of messages a day, yet studies show email marketing accounts for a large percentage of all e-commerce transactions.

Advancements in mobile are driving further growth in buyer engagement and sales.

During seasonal events and popular shopping days, the percentages rise even higher: Black Friday 2015 saw 25.1 per cent of orders come from email. Despite the volumes, email remains a difficult medium to master. To help you, below are some ‘magic formulas’ so you can reap the benefits and boost your sales with minimal investment.

The ‘before they buy’ email Research: that’s the name of the buying game. Seventy-seven per cent of consumers research their purchases before they even think to shop with you, which means pre-purchase email marketing is essential to get ahead of your competitors. You want to present your brand as informative and helpful, never spammy. Base your emails on useful information that is truly relevant to your audience. Update them about new arrivals. Consider producing guides on different styles, seasons, colours and clothing types.

Feed them content regularly and give them a preview of how your products could enhance their lifestyle. This approach will improve the level of trust between you and the buyer.

Have you forgotten something?

An astonishing number of shopping carts are abandoned (67 per cent).

This is because people change their mind for a number of reasons. It could be due to unexpected postage costs or distractions when visiting other websites. When this happens, it’s the prime opportunity to send an ‘abandoned cart email’. You want to win the customer over without being too pushy. Set up an email policy that reminds customers during a specific timeframe. This will let you know who is still interested in purchasing your products. Once you know who still has buying intentions, create a sense of urgency or offer an incentive to close the deal.

Thank you for your custom If you want to establish your brand and build a recurring customer list, you should never ignore the post-purchase period. There are lots of options to drive engagement via email after a sale. Ask for a customer review, check the item has been received safely or offer an extra item at a reduced cost.

The key objective is to build a robust relationship around strong customer data. After all, the more detailed you can be with emails, the more genuine and reliable your brand will appear. Segmentation is crucial in this context.

Emails based on sales triggers, rules and nurture concepts only perform if you have spent considerable time learning who your customer base is.

The final area is transactional emails. These are on the same wavelength as the post-purchase stage – i.e. speed is everything. Buyers expect to be kept up to date, and from accepting an order to advising on shipping status, the more reassurance you offer, the better. Customers’ inboxes are a battlefield where you have to fight for space and attention and you should make sure emails have the right tone, approach, content and length. With practice and a healthy dose of customisation, email is a powerful tool for driving sales.

DAN BURNHAM Head of Customer Success, Volo Commerce

WHEN A TRADING RELATIONSHIP AMOUNTS TO A DISTRIBUTORSHIP Does the nature of the relationship really matter? Well a recent judgment of a Spanish Court of Appeal brings home again how trading relationships can morph into a distributorship arrangement and the consequences which can follow.

In this case, the parties had a relationship which lasted almost four years. No written agreement was in place. In deciding the nature of the relationship, the Court of Appeal concluded that the relationship between the parties was on the basis of an unwritten distributorship agreement in contrast to a succession of purchase agreements. Various factors were taken into account, including: • the exclusivity of a particular geographical area • the duration of the relationship • continuity in the provision of products • the fact that once the relationship had ended, a new company was appointed as distributor of the products; and • the fact that the manufacturer provided labels for the products.

Whilst ultimately it was decided that the distributor had been acting in breach of the distributorship agreement, had this not been the case the Spanish distributor would have been entitled to compensation from the manufacturer on termination.

This case follows on from other judgments of the English court and the European Court of Justice over the past few years where a finding that a distributorship agreement was in place meant that the supplier was in breach of a failure to give proper notice.

In a 2009 judgment it was decided that there was a distributorship agreement and that it was an implied term that the distributorship agreement should be terminable on reasonable notice. The court further decided, on the facts of the case, that the proper period of notice which should have been given was nine months. As no such period of notice had been given, the distributor had a claim for damages against the supplier for the loss of such nine-month notice period. The distributor was entitled to compensation under its national law.

In 2013 The European Court decided that the trading relationship between the parties amounted to an unwritten distributorship agreement.

The distributor was based in Belgium where the national law provides protection to distributors on termination. As such, following termination of the relationship, the distributor sought an order for payment of compensation by the supplier under Belgian law.

The problem of a morphing trading relationship can be compounded by the existence and use (or lack thereof) of the supplier’s standard terms and conditions of sale.

Such terms and conditions may provide that nothing in the supply of goods by the supplier to the purchaser shall constitute a distributorship agreement. This is a good start. But the English courts will be concerned to establish what has happened in practice.

Furthermore the supplier’s failure to use standard terms and conditions of sale – or to use them properly – can put the supplier in a double bind insofar as: • a distributorship agreement can exist without there being in place standard terms and conditions of sale; and • the lack of such standard terms and conditions of sale is likely to leave the supplier exposed on a number of issues including retention of title and limitation of liability for defective goods.

Ultimately these judgments highlight the risk faced by suppliers that a trading customer may over time be found to be acting as distributor and the unintended consequences which can follow.

LAURA MONRO Associate at Fox Williams LLP © Fox Williams LLP 2016

www.barker-shoes.co.uk @barkershoesltd

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P R O D U C T

SAILING THE BALTIC SEA Finnish menswear label Frenn draws inspiration from the Baltic Sea this season, with deep tones, graphic lines and washed linen at the core of the collection. Check jersey provides comfort, while a bold striped Linus jacket and Sipi trousers offer statement pieces within the range. Frenn classics such as the Jarkko denim jacket, white Axel shirt and Rufus trousers, meanwhile, remain within the collection, updated with new detailing for s/s 17.

Based in Helsinki, Frenn focuses on combining honest design with Nordic simplicity. Founded by Antti Laitinen and Jarkko Kallio, the range is hand-manufactured in Northern Europe from premium, ecologically sourced European materials. —

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RADAR Spotlighting style

BUCKETS AND SPADES British shoemaker Carréducker is presenting the Great British Seaside collection. After raising £21,000 through a Kickstarter campaign, the London brand’s first collection consists of nine unisex slip-on shoes featuring Designers Guild fabrics.

Based on a classic espadrille, the Winkers Resort Shoe comes in a choice of nine colourways, with a palette of greys, greens and blues. Each variation is inspired by and named after a traditional English seaside resort, and is leather-lined with a padded sock and a leather heel.

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MAD RABBIT KICKING TIGER (M.R.K.T) ESTABLISHED: 2010 HISTORY: Established by Harvard-trained architect Tom Pen, the motivation behind Mad Rabbit Kicking Tiger’s conception was to create designs inspired by modern architectural concepts.

SIGNATURE STYLE: Typically Scandinavian in design and appearance; structure, function and material innovation are central to the overall brand ethos.

LA brand Mad Rabbit Kicking Tiger (M.R.K.T.) has recently brought its range of bags influenced by Scandinavian design to the UK market. Established in 2010, the bag brand has an existing presence in the US and Asia and is now moving into the UK with distributor Primer Europe. As the founder, Pen set out to create a bag label whereby the design presents a clean and pure form, informed by his knowledge of architecture and led by a desire to push the boundaries in every bag created.

With a typically clean aesthetic, the range reflects simplicity throughout. Aimed at the busy city-goer, design and functionality come together in the collection pieces. Features such as pockets are kept hidden, though still offer a reminder that every bag presents a practical element. Collection pieces come in a range of materials including vegan leather, a durable felt with a non-porous surface and microfibre suede. Wholesale prices average at £40.

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PRODUCT NEWS LUGGAGE CARRIER RETRO APPEAL

As the oldest luggage brand in the world, London-based label John Pound continues to offer its range of high quality leather goods. Starting out in 1823, the brand established itself mainly through its range of bags; however, recently the brand has started producing small leather goods.

Using British leather, John Pound produces a range of embossed and simple finish leather wallets which are made to order from its London workshops.

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For s/s 17, Fila strengthens its Black Line collection, featuring more nostalgic archive pieces from the late 80s and early 90s.

During this time period, the brand’s connection with basketball was established and it developed an American following. The brand’s links with US youth culture are explored further in the Black Line collection.

Overall, a sports aesthetic is promoted throughout the range, fused with elements taken from the underground hip hop and early rap era.

Oversized branding and retro fabrics including towelling and velour replicate an authentic old-school look fused with elements of the modern day.

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MODERN HERITAGE FUSION The Gabicci Vintage a/w 17 collection presents a strong colour palette of reds and dark maroons.

Meanwhile, an injection of greys and soft pink hues provide a sharp contrast with the rest of the collection aesthetic.

Distinct themes are presented in the tailoring category, the most obvious being a clash between heritage and contemporary. Twists on traditional suiting are emphasised through layered silhouettes of casual styling choices. Vertical panels and stripes are key to the collection, which highlights the brand’s core traditional styling tendencies.

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STYLE HIGHLIGHT

CRAGHOPPERS The Discovery Adventures Jacket (pictured) is the result of a collaboration between Craghoppers and Discovery Consumer Products, the licensing arm of Discovery Communications. The new apparel line under the Discovery Adventures brand will consist of a s/s 17 collection comprised of AquaDry jackets in stretch and ripstop fabrics, Climaplus jackets and vests in softshell and fleece, as well as shirts, trousers, shorts and T-shirts.

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RADAR Spotlighting style

JEAN POOL For s/s 17, Cayler & Sons introduces the CSBL (Cayler & Sons Black Label) All Day Denim Project that will be released in two different drops of denim styles.

The first UK drop features three denim jackets and one denim trouser style. The second drop for the season features six denim trousers, available in five colourways and washes.

A simple design is presented throughout the line, featuring high quality denim and a craft fit that is designed to be worn all day.

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AFIELD ESTABLISHED: 2010 (as Tuktuk) HISTORY: Afield is the evolution and rebrand of Tuktuk, which was set up in 2010. After six years, the rebrand is the result of a decision to move in a more mature direction.

SIGNATURE STYLE: Contemporary menswear with a focus on directional prints and affordable price points.

Previously known as Tuktuk, Afield makes its debut for s/s 17 under the rebranded identity.

Typically aiming its collection of mod-influenced clothing at men aged 20-40, casual and contemporary themed pieces are stocked in around 15 stores in the UK including Atom Retro, Bob Greens, Dulwich Trader and Grants 1856. While Tuktuk was inspired by the tropics, Afield now looks further for its design influences. Inspiration comes from around the world, with themes such as travel, design, architecture, photography, art and music regularly touched on. However, travel remains the main focus for the label. For the brand’s debut, the s/s 17 collection features an array of bold and vintage style prints across shirts, T-shirts and swimwear. Although mostly subtle in design, there’s a nod to the late 60s David Hockney era, with a more modern and geometric inspiration that draws upon the work of aerial photographer Gray Malin. Relaxed tailoring and retro knitwear mix with classic linens and Oxfords for a laid-back look. Overall the line is casual meets classic, with a contemporary twist. Wholesale prices range from £2.50-£60.

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NEWS GREENPEACE CONGRATULATES BENETTON GROUP FOR TOXIN ELIMINATION PROGRESS Benetton Group performed well in this year’s Greenpeace Detox Catwalk of major fashion brands. The Detox Catwalk evaluates the performance of the companies – and in particular the progress of 19 major fashion brands – on criteria which includes the elimination of hazardous chemicals from products and production processes and the publication of information regarding the emission of toxic substances by their suppliers.

Benetton Group has completely excluded 11 potentially harmful chemicals and adopted a clean approach towards all production.

Within Greenpeace’s Detox campaign rakings, the company is among the top names in the Avant-Garde category, the most prestigious ranking. “We congratulate Benetton for the way it drives the entire industry and imposes a new, worldwide standard for a fashion free from toxic substances,” says Giuseppe Ungherese, pollution campaign manager of Greenpeace Italy. “The company is showing for a fact that ridding the fashion industry of toxic substances is already possible.”

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NAPAPIJRI £89.50 020 7608 9100

SKOPES £48 0113 240 2211

PRETTY GREEN £170 0845 539 2109

SIMON CARTER £100 020 8683 4475

DOUGLAS & GRAHAME £85 0333 456 7777

BARBOUR £73.70 0800 917 3000

HACKETT £180 020 7494 4917

COAT OF ARMS Although traditionally more of a formal outerwear option, the overcoat now works perfectly with jogging bottoms and a hoodie, with popular styles for autumn/winter 2016 ranging from double breasted to military-inspired.

— Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

DIGEL £104 01283 576159

LIBERTINE-LIBERTINE £92 020 8983 5691

CHEAP MONDAY PRICE ON REQUEST 0344 844 8505

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BLOOD BROTHER £76 020 7729 5005

CRAGHOPPERS £46.50 0161 866 0591 CHEAP MONDAY PRICE ON REQUEST 0344 844 8505

MILITARY ACTION Military influences are set to be trending again this autumn, with earthy green shades dominating colour palettes across both tailoring and streetwear. Premium fabrications and luxe finishes, however, inject newness into this reoccurring story for the new season.

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DUKE £13 0115 977 0009

BLACK EYE RAGS £44.44 07817 314663

BLEND HE £16.90 020 3432 6387

KINGS OF INDIGO £67 020 8983 5691 BLUNDSTONE £65 020 7240 2783

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

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THE PERFECT FIT German trouser specialist Meyer is launching a higher end capsule ‘Exclusive Line’ for s/s 17 to be unveiled at the forthcoming Moda show at the NEC on August 7-9. The brand already sells almost 250,000 pairs of trousers in the UK per year, so this is another added attraction for buyers, as Tom Bottomley discovers from Meyer’s UK agent, Richard Wheelhouse.

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Supplying almost 400 independent shops in the UK, Meyer’s trouser business continues to grow.

And selling nearly 250,000 pairs of trousers per year on these shores is an impressive feat.

Serving the retailers is UK agent Richard Wheelhouse, who splits the UK business with another agent, Iain Leighton. Wheelhouse has been with Meyer for nearly 25 years. His father, Keith Wheelhouse, had the agency for another 20 years prior to that. You could say they know a thing or two about growing a sustainable business, but what is perhaps even more impressive is that is it purely through one product category. “We have had steady growth every year, especially over the last 10 years, from a strong base,” says Wheelhouse.

A specialist to the last, Meyer was founded in Waldbröl, in the Bergische Land region of Germany, in 1960 by Bernhard Meyer. His son, Michael Meyer, now continues the business. It’s fair to say it’s German’s largest and most successful supplier of trousers. And that’s not to forget that denim trousers represent some 40 per cent of the business, something that may surprise a few people. The company strapline, which also features on the website is ‘Trousers for a perfect fit’: simple but effective. That’s what they do, and do well, and why people come back for more every year.

As an international men’s trouser specialist, Meyer delivers its garments to some 35 countries around the world, with a network of some 5,000 trade partners worldwide. They not only pay attention to excellent quality, but they also take responsibility with how they go about their production. Compliance with international social and ecological standards in their own European manufacturing plant is regularly checked on site

by FLO–CERT, the world´s largest independent social certification body. This is confirmed by the brand’s fair trade seal.

Always a brand to support Moda, Meyer will once again be showing its latest collection at the forthcoming show. Says Wheelhouse: “We have always supported Moda and have invested heavily in the last few years bringing our own specialist stand builders and design team from Germany. We hope as our brand grows, more retailers will grow with us. We have a strong base on which to grow further.” Regarding sterling’s recent uncertainty and falling rate following the Brexit vote, Wheelhouse also has reassurance for

his stockists that there’s not going to be any price-hike surprises. “We have no price increases for s/s 17, as we had already committed to the currency, enabling us to keep prices stable,” he confirms.

The all-new higher end ‘Exclusive Line’ for s/s 17 will offer a capsule premium selection of trousers, with price points of 20 per cent higher,.

Considering the use of Zegna fabrics that is not as high as it probably should be, according to Wheelhouse. “This part of the collection harnesses all our trouser making skill with the best fabric mills from Europe including not only Zegna, but Comero as well. It really is something that I think is going to go down very well with the top tier accounts.”

Meyer currently supplies many high quality UK retailers including Fenwick, Jarrolds, Coes, and Weir Rhodes as well as being a key supplier to the IMC and AIS buying groups. “As a trouser and five-pocket specialist, with over 55 years of experience, buyers are extremely happy to try our new ideas and concepts as they come along,” offers Wheelhouse, who says their current bestselling styles are contemporary with a

tapered leg. The key styles are ‘Roma’, ‘New York’ and ‘Chicago’. They all have the same fit; it’s just the pocket and trims are the key differences. The trousers retail from £75 to £99, and the brand mainly attracts 35-plus men who appreciate style and great quality.

“Without any doubt, the single most important element to our success is the consistency of our fit, and our comprehensive stock offer with great customer service,” says Wheelhouse. “We hold an extensive stock programme of all key NOS (Never Out of Stock) and seasonal articles which can be accessed through our own online business to business portal,” he continues.

“Add to that we have over 50 cloth articles, with over 10 colours per article, with many available in two to three different styles. We are also well established in the UK with our own ‘UK fit’, which has helped us perform very strongly in the market,” he concludes. It’s that kind of attention to detail and tailored business model that keeps Meyer at the top of its game. Moda awaits the all new collection, as do the retailers who know a good thing when they see it.

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BESPOKE

BY NATURE Blending seven decades of heritage with a cutting-edge approach to business has ensured that tailoring label Skopes remains a cut above the rest. Now as the brand returns to Moda Gent with an innovative new spring offer, Christina Chambers discovers why the label is Skopes by name, and bespoke by nature.

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Fittingly for a tailoring label, there is an element of the perfect gentleman running through every fibre of the Skopes company. From those at the helm of the brand to the loyal employees who make sure the brand delivers, every aspect of the business is run with an effortless attention to quiet excellence.

Still family-owned since its inception in 1948, the third-generation company has become a staple supplier for those in the tailoring trade.

Despite the economic adversity of the past decade, Skopes has seen sales increase by 10-15 per cent with every year that passes; an achievement which managing director Simon Cope attributes to a multi-faceted approach to achieving excellence at every level.

“Our wholesale operation has never gone backwards, but we are gaining a larger share of a shrinking market,” says Cope, whose grandfather

founded the business. “The trade has faced some undeniably tough times, but that has only inspired us to become more aggressive with our approach to marketing and to increase our brand awareness.”

During Moda Gent for example – Skopes’ key trade event of the season – the brand sets itself apart with a bespoke stand build and the sponsorship of on-site social events.

“It’s hard to quantify exactly what such marketing does in terms of the bottom line, but we have seen sales increase from season to season every time we exhibit at Moda Gent,” says Cope. “It’s all about brand awareness and, if customers attend one of our drinks events, considers the brand label and then visits the stand, that’s all part of the essential engagement of a trade show environment.”

It’s the first point of contact in what generally

becomes a long and loyal relationship between supplier and retailer. Skopes currently has 600 stockists across the UK and Ireland, who between them will sell an estimated one million units of Skopes product this year. The portfolio includes department stores such as House of Fraser, as well as a network of smaller independents which are just as valued and respected by the brand.

“You will never find a better shop than one which is managed by the owner himself,” says Cope, before effortlessly citing examples across the country whose approach to retail is exemplary.

“Blooms of Wolverhampton – that’s a fine example of a store where an alteration service comes as standard and the staff are highly trained to offer the best in service.”

The synergy between such quality retailers and Skopes is tangible. As a family-owned firm itself with a total of 200 employees, the company

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boasts an unusually low turnover. Its longestserving employee has worked with the brand for 46 years, while five others have racked up two decades of loyal service each. The true appeal of the brand however, goes far beyond a charming display of history and heritage.

“No matter how long you’ve been around, you need to stay relevant,” says Cope. “We constantly assess where the market is going, and go to great lengths to find out which products are selling in store, and which lines have customers coming back for more of the same.”

And as every good tailoring specialist is aware, nothing is a case of one size fits all. Skopes’ relationship with its suppliers differs not only from one country to the next, but from one store to another.

“We compile regular newsletters to keep our stockists up to date with all of our news, but there are bespoke versions for Northern Ireland and southern Ireland; for the UK and our overseas territories,” says Cope.

“Southern Ireland is a very strong market for us, and the country’s upsurge in debutante balls – the Irish equivalent to the US prom – has seen us sell around 10,000 suits per year for this consumer demographic alone,” he reveals. “The French market, meanwhile, is very productfocused with little regard for our British heritage, while the Dutch and Swiss territories hold British

SKOPES HAS: • 3 00k items in stock at any time with a cost value of £5.7m • Nine standalone stores • 600 stockists across the UK & Ireland • 222 employers • Nine European territories •A 40,000 sq ft warehouse with 70,000 sq ft of hanging space •A commitment to donating between £60k and £100k to charitable operations every year

tailoring in very high regard.”

The bespoke approach to piquing each sector’s interest is a massive undertaking, but it’s an attention to detail which has seen Skopes remain ahead of its game. During Simon Cope’s 22-year tenure alone, turnover has grown from £3m to £30m, an increase which he modestly attributes to the strength of the product itself.

“No matter how good your marketing and customer service is, everything essentially comes down to the product,” says Cope. “Our product evolves every season, remaining faithful enough to our core demographic of the 35-65 year old man while innovating to attract the younger consumer for whom tailoring is becoming increasingly relevant.”

For s/s 17, the Skopes offer builds upon the success of previous sell-throughs, with bold royal blue, icy air force shades and indigo hues coming

to the forefront of the collection. Grey also emerges as a top seller, with silver grey textured weaves adding textural depth to a three-piece silhouette and a slimmer fitting leg.

Interestingly, it’s the fits that have kept Skopes ahead of its game across the full spectrum of consumer demographics. In line with the increased popularity of tailoring for prom and debutante events, slimmer fitting styles were introduced for s/s 16 and surpassed all expectations for the season. Flexibility across trousers, waistcoats and jackets, meanwhile, ensure a perfect fit that’s bespoke to the consumer.

“Success is by design, not default,” says Cope. “That’s true from the design of each of our garments to the way in which we deliver the brand, and it is a bespoke service every step of the way.”

D’Alembi distributors of Benetti to the UK and Channel Island DAVID ALEMBICK TEL: +44 (0) 7768 345507 Office: +44 (0) 1767 682914 Email: dalembi@hotmail.com Website: www.dalembi.co.uk NEC Birmingham 7th - 9th August 2016 Hall 19, Stand N20

Bill Corsi Sales Manager Mobile: +44 (0) 7714 743361 Email: bill@corsi.freeserve.co.uk

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AFTER 20 YEARS BENETTI HITS THE UK Italian by name, Irish by descent, Benetti is a sharp formalwear brand that has grown over 20 years to become one of the leading suit houses in Ireland. Now it’s now making waves in the UK, as Tom Bottomley discovers from UK distributor – and Moda exhibitor – David Alembick, managing director of D’Alembi.

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The name may sound like an old Chelsea goalkeeper – Peter ‘The Cat’ Bonetti, that is – but when it comes to affordable but stylish tailoring, Irish suit brand Benetti is about to get the UK cream.

Sole UK distributor David Alembick says: “It’s the best thing to come out of Ireland since Guinness.” Now there’s a statement. This man is on a mission, for sure. “Benetti has proved its ability to sit beside any other competitor in the market. We offer our customers high mark-ups, big margins and stock. Our reputation for style and fit and value for money cannot be surpassed.”

According to Alembick, Benetti is among the best selling Irish clothing brands available in the UK. And by using “the finest quality mills and yarns available throughout the world, specialising in top quality suits at prices where the retailer can enjoy mark-ups of at least 3.5 to 4, it’s also got a head-turning factor.” That’s something it may indeed have in common with Guinness. “We are also offering a mix and match suit available on our ‘stock service’,” says Alembick, enthusiastic to say the least.

All clothing is wool rich, and the suits come in two fittings, ‘Tailored’ and ‘Comfort’. Those pretty much do what they say, covering the young buck about town or the travel-weary businessman hankering for the HS2 high-speed rail network from London to Birmingham to come to fruition so his suit won’t crease before he lands in the UK’s second biggest city. No matter, he’ll be happy to know that all Benetti’s two-piece, threepiece and double-breasted suits feature strongly in the all-new s/s17 range. And if the air-con gets a bit extreme, there’s also some very fine knitwear

in 100 per cent cotton to pull out of the travel bag before the guard can say, “tickets please.”

The Benetti brand was established in 1996, and is based in Ballymahon, Co. Longford, Ireland, run by Barry Conlon and Serena Farrell. Since then, according to Alembick, it has grown to become among the leading suit houses in Ireland.

Few would argue at the success the brand has had in the home of Guinness. And few would want to spill a pint down one of its very fine ‘whistles’. All products are made in their own factories in Turkey. High quality is a major focus, not just on the suits, but also with the sports jackets, waistcoats and knitwear.

Alembick, the sole distributor to the UK, Ireland and Channel Islands for the highly successful shirt brand Ben Green, and owner of D’Alembi, believes he knows a good thing when he sees it. He approached Benetti in November last year, saying the brand would be a real winner in the UK. A partnership was then formed where he was given the sole distributorship for the UK and Channel Islands.

“Benetti was launched at Moda in February 2016, and the stand was buzzing from Sunday morning onwards,” confides Alembick. “By the end of the show over 50 new accounts were opened.”

Since then it has grown steadily, and both Benetti and Alembick are thrilled and excited about its future growth. “This brand is the most exciting product I’ve seen in years. The quality of fabric, and the fit are superb. The styling is totally the ‘sharpest’ and so on trend, using vibrant linings and tasteful trimmings, with great attention to detail. There is currently nothing

comparable in the UK, and retailers can achieve high margins, which is so important in today’s market. ” He is also excited to have Bill Corsi, who has come on board as sales manager and will be sharing his extensive experience in the clothing trade. Corsi was with Douglas & Grahame for many years, so he’s clearly seen something in Benetti that other brands don’t have. “It’s exciting times ahead for all of us,” offers Alembick.

“The suit market is undergoing a resurgence.

Suits have replaced morning wear to a great degree for weddings. On the fashion side, guys like wearing a suit to go out in the evening. We’re offering mix and match in plain vibrant colours, and on the fashion front, checks seem very strong. We’ve added three new suits to the mix and match; these are cloths with ‘surface’ interest.”

Alembick says D’Alembi had an excellent response when they launched Benetti at Moda last February. And now he feels the time is ripe to capitalise on the buzz surrounding the product – and the price. “It’s a brand that appeals to independents, and multiples alike. Benetti covers many markets. The mix and match is ideal for wedding parties, and for business wear. On the fashion side, checks and cloths with surface interest are for individuals with plenty of style.”

Making sure that Benetti becomes a household name in the UK and Channel Islands, just as it is in Ireland, is top priority for Alembick, just as it has been with shirt brand Ben Green.

He’ll be taking orders for s/s 17 until the end of September 2016 – plenty of time to let the Guinness settle then.

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MODA S/S 17 7-9 AUGUST 2016 NEC BIRMINGHAM

45 46 51 52 53

New Names Returning Favourites Accessories and Add-ons Footwear What’s On

DIGEL

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BEN SHERMAN Stand M21

FARAH JEANS Stand M18

PERRY ELLIS AMERICA Stand L11

BLUE TIDE Stand P26

JUNQ COUTURE Stand J51

NEW SIGNINGS Moda Gent prepares to welcome a number of brands making their debut at the s/s 17 edition.

— BEN SHERMAN Iconic menswear label Ben Sherman will enter a new phase of development this season, heralded by its debut appearance at Moda Gent. The brand – which was recently brought under the BMB stable – will focus specifically on its UK wholesale operation, bringing new retail partners on board for s/s 17 while maintaining its distinctive identity as a British heritage label. Established in 1963, Ben Sherman was embraced by the mod culture of its time, evolving over the following five decades to become one of the industry’s best-loved labels, not only for its signature shirts but for a wide range of apparel.

BLUE TIDE New Devon-based menswear label Blue Tide will make its mark on the industry this season when it launches with a collection designed around effortless style and coastal living. Targeting the 25-50 age range, Blue Tide is for the man who aspires to wear well-designed and authentic clothing with an edgy aesthetic inspired by the British coastline. Priding itself on its price to value proposition, Blue Tide is setting the precedent of quality with its s/s 17 collection: fabric selection is paramount, while the laid-back influences of surfing culture set the brand apart in terms of style.

FARAH JEANS From within the Perry Ellis stable comes the latest development from menswear label Farah. Farah Jeans will make its

debut at Moda Gent this season, bringing with it a comprehensive offering of not only denim, but casual wardrobe staples. Targeting the 30-plus market, the collection is based on timeless menswear styles with Farah’s distinct British handwriting – an identity which is set to strengthen as the range is developed further.

JUNQ COUTURE Established in 2014, UK streetwear label Junq Couture will showcase its collection of high fashion designs at the forthcoming show. Led by trends not only seen on the catwalk, but those developed on the street, the brand places a strong focus on quality and comfort at competitive prices. With limited edition pieces throughout the collection, Junq Couture is designed for the shopper who likes to stand out from the crowd, whether for a night out or everyday wear. The brand believes in social responsibility and works hand in hand with its manufacturers, retailers and customers.

PERRY ELLIS AMERICA Perry Ellis, a label famed for pushing the limits of American sportswear, enters 2016 with a modern outlook while still retaining its classic American DNA. Keeping the original brand ethos in mind, the new range, which is set to make its debut at this season’s Moda, includes a wide range of designs in varied materials and interesting details such as coloured cuffs on sweaters, heat-sealed rubber banding, fabric finishes and innovative treatments. >>>

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SKOPES Stand N30

S4 Stand M2

TRINITY APPAREL Stand O18

JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN Stand O20

MODA GENT With names spanning tailoring, casualwear, denim and private label houses, Moda Gent prepares for one of its strongest line-ups to date.

— COLOURS & SONS Founded in 2012, Colours & Sons is an independent label with a strong focus on quality, workmanship and sustainability.

The diversity within the collection is reflected in its complete wardrobe offer, which includes light knitted articles, sports-inspired shirts and a comprehensive range of T-shirts, polos and sweat themes. Light jackets are more popular than ever, complemented by shorts and chinos.

Beside yarns such as cotton and linen, buyers can expect slub, mouliné or space-dyed effects that skilfully set the brand apart from its competitors.

DIDRIKSONS For s/s 17 Didriksons launches a collection that perfectly merges the best in modern style with function. Understanding the latest upcoming trends, the brand knows that the consumer wants style and attention to detail without sacrificing garments that will keep them warm and dry. The theme that is woven through the latest collection is Retro Sport, which draws inspiration from cuts, colours and styles from the 60s and 70s. The result is a range for men and women that takes classic features from this period and adds Didriksons’ own unique identity.

ETERNA Eterna sparks off the new season will a palette of fresh, spring-like colours including mint, physalis and lavender. Pastels appear in delicate, muted shades, combined with white and dark tones. In

terms of prints, buyers can expect to find both houndstooth check and multi-coloured checks, alongside fine stripes. The brand’s premium offering, 1863 by Eterna, meanwhile, features fine twill shirts in non-iron fabrics, in a versatile palette of royal blue and grey through to rose.

FRC WORLD Founded in 1991, Spanish label FRC World is making its UK debut at Moda this season, under the guidance of Double H Agency. Growing from an outerwear specialist to a complete wardrobe collection, the brand’s DNA is built from ‘essence and authenticity’.

When asked about its target market in the current menswear market, the brand explains: “We belong to a new generation, one that travels, explores, discovers – in short, a generation that lives and gets the most out of each moment. We like to infuse our energy into all that we do, appreciating the little things.”

JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN Making its return to Moda Gent this season, premium knitwear brand Johnstons of Elgin will present a collection inspired by subtle nautical nostalgia with a modern twist. Luxury cashmere is at the helm of the range, while intricate stitch structures and weaves trace contemporary geometric patterns. Meanwhile, colour blocking evokes thoughts of Riviera regalia. Subtle tones of sand and weathered marls are juxtaposed with summer pinks, fading into pastels and silver grey.

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REDPOINT Stand N38

ETERNA Stand M59

SEIDENSTICKER Stand J11

FRC WORLD Stand N10

REDPOINT The new season sees Redpoint retain its core qualities while expanding into new fabrications and fits. Light steppers, quilted stepper blousons, soft shells and transitional jackets form the basis of the NOS programme, with innovation running throughout. Technical light qualities, as well as ultra-light coloured wax nylon, coated cotton/ nylon, polyester fabrics in vintage pigment and lightweight summer twill bring added gravitas to the collection.

S4 Lightness is the buzzword of the season at outerwear label S4, with blousons, parkas and lightweight steppers forming the base of the s/s 17 collection. Newness and innovation comes from water-resistant shape memory qualities, nylon in two-tone optic and ‘flexxx’ fit – the new super-light stretch-ware where freedom and comfort goes hand in hand with style. The theme also infuses the collection’s colour palette, with light shades of stone, sand, eggshell and tobacco being paired with tomato red, regatta blue and leaf green.

SEIDENSTICKER Seidensticker continues to strengthen its presence in the UK this season, with a revised collection and realignment in the market. Highlights of the collection include stripes, which come in classic black and white, block stripes and on-trend gradient stripes in complementary colour combinations. Seersucker is finding its place again, designed to be worn on both a casual and formal basis, while

COLOURS & SONS Stand M3

DIDRIKSONS Stand P41

slub yarn and summer blends, similar to seersucker, find a place in the brand’s business category.

SKOPES From early showroom viewings, Skopes is once again expecting blue to be its bestselling colour theme for the new season, with bold royal vying for centre stage with fresh new tones such as icy air force and indigo colourways. Available in a choice of cloth compositions, from 100 per cent wool, wool/poly mix and polyviscose blends, the brand offers a variety of price points and styles to target a wide range of customer profiles. Many styles are available from a 34” chest up to a 62”, with total flexibility in waistcoats and trousers to ensure a perfect fit. Finally, following a new Slim Fit trouser option successfully introduced last season, this will be extended to further styles and colours for s/s 17.

TRINITY APPAREL Catering for those retailers looking to establish their own private in-house label, Trinity Apparel offers high quality manufactured menswear product under its subdivision company, iDesign. With a vast selection of fabric suppliers including the likes of Dugdale, Vitale Barberis, Dormeuil, Reda and Thomas Mason, there are no large set-up fees, and no mark downs, allowing retailers to purchase from the brand when they have sold and taken a deposit for each made-to-measure suit. >>>

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ALAN PAINE Iconic heritage brand Alan Paine returns to Moda Outdoors this season, introducing a variety of yarns and fabrics such as a linen/cotton blend and a luxury cotton blend, combining Pima cotton and cashmere. Following the success of last summer’s Heritage Rowing Club capsule collection the brand has once again drawn upon the wealth of vintage photos in their archives for this year’s update. Taking evocative images of rowing teams from the 1940s and 50s resplendent in their sports shirts and sweaters, the Alan Paine Heritage Rowing Club Collection comprises a range of quintessentially British sporty styles.

styles for on-trend top-ups, the brand evolves its offer with an extensive style range of denim basics. “This season sees an honest approach to denim, focusing on outstanding product, innovative laundry techniques and world-class workmanship,” says senior designer Gareth Heaton.

“This is a refreshing and contemporary solution to modern denim.”

Vintage natural washes are key for this season across a range of silhouettes, from basic five-pocket styles to more adventurous cuts.

The brand also moves into stretch basics with the launch of its Selvedge capsule range, which will be unveiled in its entirety at the show.

Wholesale prices range from £10 to £18.

CASAMODA Drawing inspiration from the sights of Australia, Casamoda presents a comprehensive collection of shirts, polos and pullovers for s/s 17. Spilt over four delivery dates, the range is comprised of Casamoda Sports and Casamoda Club. Casual and trend-led, the Sports segment features multi-coloured checks, plain Oxfords and stripes. An element of freshness comes in the form of contrasting buttonholes and piping, and soft necktapes. The Club segment, meanwhile, focuses on interesting and eye-catching prints such as geometric and paisley, through to striking surfer motifs – capturing the essence of Australia perfectly.

DOUGLAS Moda Gent welcomes back menswear label Douglas for the new season as it continues to strengthen its ongoing success with the UK independent retail market. Focusing on the core qualities it is known for, such as quality fabrics, well established fits, up to date styling and commercial pricing, the s/s 17 collection features washed cotton pastel jackets, polo shirts, innovative stretch fabric formal shorts and colour lightweight jackets.

DML JEANS Contemporary label DML returns to Moda Gent with a fresh take on staple denim this season. Offering a range of in-season

CASAMODA Stand M39

FYNCH-HATTON Stand M60

DOUGLAS Stand L20

GEOX Stand P10

DUKE Citing its s/s 17 collection as its best to date, British label Duke will showcase both its current and forward order ranges at Moda Gent.

Renowned for its NOS collection of core basic product, the brand will also introduce a comprehensive offering of trend-led pieces for the new season. Buyers can expect a range that spans across oil wash

OLYMP Stand L30

DUKE Stand K20

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printed T-shirts, dip dyed polos and contrasting camo MA1 bomber jackets.

EDEN PARK Parisian label Eden Park focuses on the new definition of male elegance this season, with unstructured jackets, over-jackets, padded waistcoats and shirts worn over loose trousers forming the core of the collection. Colour palettes include beige, brown, grey, khaki and blue, while denim remains a strong theme, moving from the city to the beach with shirts in the fabric receiving a printed overlay.

Continuing the carefree coastal feel, buyers can expect florals, jacquards and military influences spotted across shirts, polo shirts, windcheaters and swimming trunks.

FYNCH-HATTON The new season will see menswear label FynchHatton introduce its latest development, the addition of the Silver label and Black label, dividing its collection by the silhouettes Modern and Casual Fit. The rebranding is a response to customer feedback, with the Silver label focusing on the latest trends, while the Black label combines sportiness with comfort. Completing its total look offer, Fynch-Hatton adds both robust and sporty velour boots in various versions, alongside a refined sneaker to complete the collection.

GEOX Global label Geox will attend its second consecutive season at Moda Gent as the brand unveils its s/s 17 offer to the UK trade.

Presenting its apparel collection, the brand will showcase its ‘less-ismore’ design ethos, named NEW:DO. The casual parka, for example, has an unlined silhouette, heavy-duty stitching and Ecomarble buttons, reminiscent of heritage horn buttons. The blazer, meanwhile, becomes available in a lightweight washed cotton, with thin lapels and a small front pocket, doubling up as multifunctional overcoat.

GIBSON LONDON This season sees Gibson London draw inspiration from the Victorian palm house – a specialised greenhouse for growing palms and other tropical plants in the mid-19th century. Influences come from exotic plantlife, with printed linings and a new lapel pin based on entomological drawings of dragonflies from the same period.

The s/s 17 season will welcome a range of summer weight linen and wool check jackets, while button down shirts with cross stitch detail pockets, bold coloured merino V-neck knitwear and bright squareedged knitted ties complement the main offer.

OLYMP Prints dominate the s/s 17 collection at German shirt specialist Olymp. Sporty stripes from fine to block are available in a range of navy blue, red and white, complemented by bright blue and fresh lagoon, while summer checks and Hawaiian prints create a casual urban look.

Modern cuts in shirting, meanwhile, are influenced by safari and workwear, while T-shirts and polo shirts are characterised by their light qualities, cold dye colours and fade out effects.

DML JEANS Stand J27

GIBSON LONDON Stand K30

EDEN PARK Stand N1

ALAN PAINE Stand P28

>>>

JOIN US AT MODA NEC, Birmingham 7 - 9th August 2016 th

STAND J10 HALL 18

5% DISCOUNT ON ALL ORDERS TAKEN AT THE SHOW

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Call 02476 324670 for AW2016 brochure and price list email:sales@ikonfootwear.co.uk

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VISIT US AT MODA HALL 2 STAND I28

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | MODA ACCESSORIES | 51

JOCKEY Stand P20

STETSON Stand O29

KNIGHTSBRIDGE NECKWEAR Stand L2

BRITISH BAG COMPANY Stand K1

HJ HALL Stand P2

MODA ACCESSORIES Essential add-ons and accessories to complement your store’s offer.

— HJ HALL Leading sock specialist HJ Hall is set to introduce its new line of premium designs at this month’s edition of Moda. Further extending their already wide assortment of socks for both men and women, the brand offers fresh colour palettes, specialist styles and new products.

Generation V, for example, features super soft bamboo socks in spot, stripes and classic argyle. The new season will also herald the arrival of workwear durable socks in innovative Iso Wool – a high performance Merino wool blend which is five times more abrasion-resistant than 100 per cent wool.

JOCKEY This summer Jockey pays tribute to America’s Atlantic coast: from the white sandy beaches of Miami to the fishing villages and quaint towns of Cape Cod, the brand takes inspiration from both for its palette of colours and styles. The USA Originals collection, meanwhile, plays tribute to Jockey’s roots, exploring traditional American colours, textures and icons. The classic, yet contemporary styles combine unique labels, embroidery and prints to evoke a rich sense of both Jockey’s heritage and American culture.

KNIGHTSBRIDGE NECKWEAR Drawing inspiration from the 60s and 70s, Knightsbridge Neckwear shines the spotlight on prints this coming season, from abstract ornamentals to paisleys and florals. Vintage checks, meanwhile, see the use of gingham, Prince of Wales and

Madras styling, while polka dots and geometric patterns add a modern twist. Highlights include the woven silk pocket squares with matching woven silk ties, in both slim 5.5cm and 7cm width fits, a range of new vintage inspired paisley cravats and lambswool cable knitted scarves.

MAG MOUCH Celebrating 75 years in business, British brand Mag Mouch is set to launch its new RFID leather bound security wallets, which protect customers’ cards from being scanned by contactless machines or by fraudsters. Wholesaling at £15.99 for plain leather and £16.99 for croc leather, each design is available in black and brown in both options. Sister label British Bag Company (pictured) will also showcase its new range of waxed canvas bag designs, which are hardwearing and durable for the frequent traveller.

STETSON Making its return to Moda Gent, iconic hat label Stetson brings with it a comprehensive collection of headwear, from authentic Westernwear to contemporary streetwear and timeless classics. The brand’s s/s 17 collection is inspired by the world of street art where culture, style and expression meet. Collection highlights include cotton ivy caps and raffia player hats with surprising splashes of colour.

Stetson shows its own graffiti talent in an all-over print on bucket hats and baseball caps. A graffiti pin marks the collection, while the lining features graffiti by street artist minusbaby. >>>

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | MODA FOOTWEAR | 52

CHATHAM Stand J10

HUSH PUPPIES Stand H29

BARKER Stand I11

SEBAGO Stand J20

MODA FOOTWEAR As the UK’s national trade show for footwear, Moda Footwear offers a wealth of cross-sector potential to menswear buyers. MWB takes a sneak preview at the brands defining s/s 17 style.

— BARKER Designed and manufactured in Northamptonshire, Barker Shoes is renowned for effortless style with the occasional unexpected quirk in tribute to English eccentricity. This season sees the label present a range of shoes crafted from fine leather uppers and Goodyear-welted soles in line with its lasting legacy of 13 decades of craftsmanship.

CHATHAM Inspired by life on board, Chatham presents a range of boat and deck shoes, loafers and brogues in on-trend styles for s/s 17. This season will also see the addition of a Made in Britain collection, handcrafted at the brand’s headquarters in Exeter.

CLAE After launching as a small, independent footwear business, Los Angeles label Clae celebrates its 15th anniversary this year by unveiling the next chapter in its evolution. The brand’s signature minimalist construction remains at its heart, offering a refined assortment for s/s 17. New styles have been added to the collection, including the Ellington Runner, which is a hybrid of the Clae Ellington sat on top of a EVA mid-sole unit taken from the Hoffman

silhouette. Another new addition includes the super sleek Winston pig suede loafers, which really showcase the use of premium fabrics.

The successful Bradley sneaker continues through to 2017, with a softer colour palette consisting of pastels in premium perforated cow suede.

DUDE SHOES Defined by comfort but driven by style, Dude Shoes all feature the brand’s patented EVA sole and a durable memory foam leather insole. The result is a shoe that moulds to the shape of the foot for maximum comfort and all-day-long wearability. Styles, meanwhile, are characterised by laid-back surfing culture and beach vibes.

HUSH PUPPIES As a global leader in family footwear, Hush Puppies is renowned the world over for its comfort and quality attributes.

This season sees the brand return to Moda Footwear with a new offer in casual lifestyle shoes, with loafers in earthy muted tones featuring across the latest men’s range.

AUGUST 2016 | MODA FOOTWEAR | 53

SOLLU Stand B19

NPS LTD Stand J18

DUDE SHOES Stand I2

S.OLIVER Stand D31

NPS LTD British shoemaker NPS Ltd now has five in-stock collections under the two brands NPS and Solovair for s/s 17. NPS Heritage & City incorporates the craftsmanship and skills acquired by the factory since production started in 1881. All products have storm welted leather soles, premium leather uppers and have a soft leather lining. The designs combine the finest quality materials with English craftsmanship and subtle design details. Solovair Lifestyle, Premium & Classic, meanwhile, takes the soft sole suspension technology forward with a collection of up to 16 styles and colours, utilising the Goodyear welted construction and prime materials incorporated into a contemporary collection for the discerning man.

PIKOLINOS New to Moda Footwear, Pikolinos is a Spanish footwear label characterised by the warmth that can only come from handcrafted artisan production. The brand arrives at Moda Footwear with a range of on-trend but easy-wearing designs, with petrol blues and earthy browns adding depth to the men’s colour palette.

CLAE Stand J14

PIKOLINOS Stand B28

S.OLIVER As a global leader in apparel, S.Oliver is well-placed to design a range of footwear in keeping with wider trends across the menswear sector. This season sees the brand return to Moda Footwear with a wide range of styles for the entire family, all bearing the distinctive hallmarks of the quality casual lifestyle label.

SEBAGO Making a welcome return to Moda, Sebago unveils a collection for s/s 17 which includes the addition of new line Lightsides. Designed with all the attributes of the core Sebago line but in a lightweight shoe, Lightsides benefit from a more accessible price point for a wider appeal across the demographics.

SOLLU New to Moda Footwear this season, Sollu arrives from Brazil with the promise that wearers will feel the difference in just one step. Having specialised in the production of quality leather shoes for over 28 years, Sollu is renowned across its native Brazil and will target the UK buyer seeking quality men’s footwear crafted with unique South American flair.

>>>

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | MODA | 54

SPRING GOES LIVE Moda is the industry hub for all aspects of buying, networking and in-season socialising.

Don’t miss out on everything the show has to offer this month.

—

LIVE FASHION Spot the trends as s/s 17 is brought to life on the catwalk. Selecting key styles from across the show, Moda’s catwalk events offer an unmissable opportunity to get inspired ahead of the season to come. Retailers can also benefit from merchandising ideas from the key looks of the season compiled by an expert stylist.

EXPERT ADVICE Stay ahead of the game with a comprehensive line-up of seminars delivered by experts in their field. From trend advice to guaranteed ways to boost your bottom line, Moda’s seminar programme offers an

essential insight into the business tricks that help independent retailers to thrive.

FOOD WITH A VIEW This season’s Moda party reaches new heights at the brand new Highline venue. Inspired by the dramatic skyline of Manhattan, Highline provides the perfect destination to unwind after the show. Located within minutes of the hall, Highline is the perfect setting for socialising, networking and dancing until late. Drinks will be waiting at 7pm on the Monday evening, with food to follow at 8pm. Contact grace.marsh@ moda-uk.co.uk for tickets.

SEMINAR PROGRAMME HALL 18 SUNDAY 10.00 - 10.30 Gent Catwalk 10.30 - 11.00 Martin O’Toole. 10 Things You Need To Know About Video Marketing 11.15 - 11.45 Footwear & Accessories Catwalk 11.45 - 12.15 Katherine Earl. The Changing Face of Visual Merchandising 12.30 - 13.00 Gent Catwalk 13.00 - 13.30 Caner Veli. Instagram Marketing 13.45 - 14.15 Footwear & Accessories Catwalk 14.15 - 14.45 Panel Discussion – Generation X vs Millennials: J Ross, J Jordan, E Hichens, W Knight, C Veli 15.00 - 15.30 Gent Catwalk 15.30 - 16.00 Elizabeth Hichens (kidsontalks) Your Future with E-Commerce 16.15 - 16.45 Footwear & Accessories Catwalk 16.45 - 17.15 Alexandra Duke (SizeWhiz).

Solving the Online “Will it Fit?” Problem 17.00 - 18.00 Gent Happy Hour 18.00 - 18.30 Gent Catwalk & Drinks MONDAY 10.00 - 10.30 Gent Catwalk 10.30 - 11.00 Warren Knight. 7 Steps to Being a Successful Fashion Business Owner

11.15 - 11.45 Footwear & Accessories Catwalk 11.45 - 12.15 Ian Rhodes. Building a Brand Less Ordinary from Scratch 12.30 - 13.00 Gent Catwalk 13.00 - 13.30 Stefan Maurel (Style Pilot) Menswear Trends 13.45 - 14.15 Footwear & Accessories Catwalk 14.15 - 14.45 Luan Wise. Content Marketing & Storytelling 15.00 - 15.30 Gent Catwalk 15.30 - 16.00 Julie Conway (FAB). Let’s Talk Retail 16.15 - 16.45 Luan Wise. Social Media Do’s and Don’ts 17.00 - 17.30 Footwear & Accessories Catwalk 17.00 - 18.00 Gent Happy Hour TUESDAY 10.30 - 11.00 Gent Catwalk 11.45 - 12.15 Ellie Wood. Stop Being a Slave to Social 12.30 - 13.00 Footwear & Accessories Catwalk 13.00 - 13.30 Jon Tromans. Blogging for the Fashion Business 13.45 - 14.15 Gent Catwalk 14.15 - 14.45 Alexandra Duke (SizeWhiz).

Solving the Online “Will it Fit?” Problem

HALL 20 SUNDAY 10.00 - 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear Catwalk 10.30 - 11.00 Katherine Earl. The Changing Face of Visual Merchandising 11.15 - 11.45 Moda Woman Catwalk 11.45 - 12.15 Jonny Ross. How to Run a Successful Online Campaign 12.30 - 13.00 Lingerie & Swimwear Catwalk 13.00 - 13.30 Warren Knight. How to Win New Business with Social Media 13.45 - 14.15 Moda Noir Catwalk 14.15 - 14.45 Martin O’Toole. 10 Things You Need To Know About Video Marketing 15.00 - 15.30 Lingerie & Swimwear Catwalk 15.30 - 16.00 Jim Jordan. Understanding Your Target Market 16.15 - 16.45 Moda Woman Catwalk 16.45 - 17.15 Elizabeth Hichens (kidsontalks). Your Future with E-Commerce 18.00 - 18.30 Moda Noir Catwalk & Drinks MONDAY 10.00 - 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear Catwalk 10.30 - 11.00 Ian Rhodes. Building a Brand Less Ordinary from Scratch

11.15 - 11.45 Moda Woman Catwalk 11.45 - 12.15 Warren Knight. How to Win New Business with Social Media 12.30 - 13.00 Moda Noir Catwalk 13.00 - 13.30 Panel Discussion - Essential Business Advice, Tips and Tricks: J Tromans, J Conway, I Rhodes, L Wise 13.45 - 14.15 Lingerie & Swimwear Catwalk 14.15 - 14.45 Beth Taubner (Mercury lab). Why Having a Clear Brand Matters 15.00 - 15.30 Moda Woman Catwalk 16.00 - 16.30 Moda Noir Catwalk 17.00 - 17.30 Lingerie & Swimwear Catwalk TUESDAY 10.30 - 11.00 Lingerie & Swimwear Catwalk 11.15 - 11.45 Moda Woman Catwalk 12.30 - 13.00 Moda Noir Catwalk 13.00 - 13.30 Ellie Wood. PR is Not the End 13.45 - 14.15 Lingerie & Swimwear Catwalk 14.15 - 14.45 Jon Tromans. Build Better Product Descriptions

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MOVERS AND SHAKERS Spring/summer 2017 gets a hint of the East Coast, with relaxed tailoring, preppy styling and sportswear influences running throughout. MWB picks the key product to get in store this coming season. —

Photography: Chris Harvey www.iamharvey.co.uk Styling/Art Direction: Victoria Jackson Grooming: Lauren Rippin www.laurensally.co.uk Model: Reemel Active

Trousers Farah £20 020 7580 5838 Waistcoat Farah £20 020 7580 5838 Jacket Farah £44 020 7580 5838 Shirt Merc £22 020 8838 2444 Pumps Stylist’s own

Jacket Jeans Jumper

Dobson £109 07734 952960 Stylist’s own Ross Barr price on request ross@rossbarr.co.uk

Jumper Trousers

Pumps

John Smedley price on request 01629 534471 Eden Park £47 020 3432 6387 Moda stand N1 Stylist’s own

Coat

Trousers Blazer Shirt Tie

Pumps

Skopes £42 0113 240 2211 Moda stand N30 Bertoni £28 020 3432 6387 Bertoni £60 020 3432 6387 Hackett London £46 020 7408 4000 Johnstons of Elgin £31 020 7227 3131 Moda stand O20 Stylist’s own

Jacket Shorts Shirt Pumps

Barbour price on request 0800 009 988 Farah £16 020 7580 5838 Farah £22 020 7580 5838 J Shoes £27 01858 468123

Trousers Skopes £27.50 0113 240 2211

Moda stand N30 Waistcoat Skopes £18 0113 240 2211

Moda stand N30 Shirt Remus £16.50 028 9332 7828 Pumps Stylist’s own

Suit

Jumper Pumps

Eden Park £151 020 3432 6387 Moda stand N1 Slaith £39.50 01484 848434 Stylist’s own

Coat

Trousers Jumper Pumps

Douglas £76.50 033 3456 7777 Moda stand L20 Bertoni £28 020 3432 6387 John Smedley price on request 01629 534471 Stylist’s own

Jacket Shorts Jumper Pumps

Dobson £109 07734 952 960 Merc £16 020 8838 2444 Remus £23.50 028 9332 7828 J Shoes price on request 01858 468123

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | PROFILE | 66

WIDENING THE NET Marc Querol, showroom manager at Double H Agency, tells Isabella Griffiths about the company’s recent move to bigger premises and the changing role of today’s fashion agents.

—

Isabella Griffiths: Double H Agency recently moved to a new, larger showroom on Essex Road, Islington. How are you finding the new location and premises?

Marc Querol: We moved from our Chelsea showroom to new premises in April, mainly because we needed a bigger space. As a multibrand agency, our business is evolving and we now represent 14 different brands, so the move has given us the opportunity to really show off each of our collections with a dedicated space and be able to explain the brands better to our customers. It’s an amazing space that we have now, and we feel it also allows us to give our customers a much better service. The new showroom offers much easier access, too, as we are so well connected here, just a few minutes from King’s Cross, Liverpool Street and the Northern Line, which is another bonus. We have had great feedback from our customers so far – we even had a retailer from Glasgow come down to see us in the new showroom, as he could just pop on a train and come straight to King’s Cross.

IG: What services do you offer as an agency, and do you find that your role is changing with the demands of the market?

MQ: The role of an agent is definitely changing; it’s certainly no longer just a case of selling something once a season and then you’re done until the next. Nowadays, our contact with our retailers is constant and we work a lot more in partnership throughout the seasons. One of the things we place a much stronger emphasis on is marketing, to promote and build the brands we bring in, which is important both from a brand perspective, as most of our labels are new to the UK when we launch them, but also for our stockists, to build brand awareness of the labels they have just bought into. As an agency, we have a good social media presence, a constantly up to date website with brand news etc, established collaborations with key bloggers and we also

work a lot closer with our retailers to provide them with marketing material and pictures for their own PR initiatives. The link between brands, retailers and PR is much more important in today’s market.

But our role as agents is also to constantly find new labels, and often we have to edit the collections to make them relevant and suitable for the UK market, which is also a big part of our job. An agency today has to have many facets, and I would like to think that we at Double H are particularly good at juggling lots of elements.

IG: How would you describe your brand portfolio? Do you specialise in a certain market level or signature look?

MQ: We are what we call a ‘total look agency’, which means we carry collections from entrylevel price points to premium labels to offer retailers a whole range of products that can fit into a variety of independents and can be bought into in multiple ways to suit each store. We cover everything from casual through smart, to sporty looks, as well as accessories and outerwear, so we’re a bit like a one-stop-shop. On menswear our labels include Blend He, Casual Friday, Eden Park, Garcia Jeans, Bertoni of Denmark, FRC World Forecast, Colours & Sons, 6th Sense, J.T. Ascott, Haze & Finn, S4 Jackets and Hautton Accessories, and we are always looking for fresh new brands to add to the mix; it’s an active part of what we do.

IG: Are menswear retailers price conscious or design conscious, and how does this influence your offer?

MQ: I would say they are definitely changing the way they buy; they do keep an eye on price, but they look a lot more closely at design details and the quality, and they are definitely looking for something different. If the product is right and the price is justified and gives value for money, the actual price tag is secondary. Men generally

are a lot more fashion-conscious and trend-aware than in the past, and they are a lot more confident in their own style, so a product has to stand out for all the right reasons, then it sells.

IG: How are you finding the market at the moment? How is the mood in the menswear trade?

MQ: The recent Brexit vote is obviously dominating headlines and has brought a lot of uncertainty into the sector, and the fear of another recession obviously doesn’t help. The warm winter and cold summer so far have also caused retailers problems, so it’s not an easy climate to operate in. That said, when has the fashion sector ever been easy? I find from speaking with our customers that most are adapting a pragmatic approach and getting on with it. In times like this, it’s even more important that we as agents offer stand-out products that are sure to entice both our retailers and their customers, and I think we have a pretty good portfolio to do just that.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | REVIEW | 68

BERLIN SHOWCASE MWB was on hand to discover the key products and trends to emerge from Berlin last month, from contemporary menswear at SEEK and Premium to classic wardrobe staples found at mainstream trade fair Panorama.

—

AFIELD 07759 896854

ARKK 0161 839 5999

BENCH 0161 276 3900

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GOLETZ 0049 176 70455606

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | REVIEW | 69

KAPTEN & SON 0049 251 3235 9358

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RAINS 0161 839 5999

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SYNDICUT LONDON 07506 684311

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Visit us at Moda, Stand P2 20.06.16

Supersoft Bamboo HJ408

17:30

The Harrogate Bridal Show isn’t all about bridal.

It is the perfect place to browse and buy the best menswear products around. From suits, shirts and shoes to cufflinks and cravats, you will be spoilt for choice.

Whether you are looking for something to suit a groom, his groomsmen, a day at the races or a black tie dinner, we have it all.

See collections from ACS Clothing, Alfred Angelo Groom, Anthony Formalwear, Caplex, Harper’s, Heirloom Waistcoats, Hiremaster, Idoleks Cerimonia, Jean Yves, Llyod Attree & Smith, Masterhand, Peter Posh Formal Hire, Suit Up, Torre, Ultimate Formal Hire and Wilvorst.

Peter Posh

ACS Clothing

Masterhand

Torre

Idolteks

Heirloom

Ultimate Formal Hire

Wilvorst

If you want to relax and review your purchases between visiting stands we’ve got an area specifically dedicated for menswear buyers, where you can read the daily papers, watch the sports channel and enjoy complimentary refreshments. See you there.

R E G I S T E R T O D A Y A T W W W .T H E H A R R O G A T E B R I D A L S H O W . C O . U K

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | PEOPLE | 72

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK GOODS ØSTERBROGADE 44, 2100 COPENHAGEN, DENMARK

SIMON SAYS ‘Hot enough for you?’ called the postman cheerily this morning as I staggered up the steps to my house, sweating profusely and fumbling for my keys. How we Brits love to complain. Last week it was the coldest July since the Great Arctic Freeze of 1727 when pelicans froze mid-air over the Thames, and this week we will all surely die as it’s hotter than the Gobi Desert and there are ugly scenes in supermarkets as shoppers stampede to stock up on Häagen-Dazs.

But there’s a particular contrariness to our complaining. We’re perversely never happier than when there’s something to mutually moan about and nothing unites us more. And yet, we remain – by and large – reluctant to complain about bad service. This applies as much to our sector as to, say, food and drink. How many of us have had a bad experience in a restaurant and ‘not wanted to cause a fuss’?

I wonder if this is an issue more related to face to face contact. We are all used to the endless complaining with utilities and banks; the days spent in a queue to speak to some harassed soul in India. Of course our call is important to them; just not very important.

This issue was on my mind this week for two reasons. The first was when a friend extolled the virtues of Mr Porter. “Could not have been better,” gushed my friend. “Delivered to my office in a shiny little van, perfectly wrapped, lots of gorgeous tissue, little card…” the list went on.

I contrasted that with an experience in a newly opened French bistro in Crystal Palace near my home. We gave it a week to settle in, and went for Sunday brunch. The staff were friendly enough, but a simple dish (croque monsieur?) took 20 minutes and I was getting twitchy. A table of four arrived next to us, settled in, and then noticed the owner’s dog running around. I know; it’s a French thing. Plainly, this was not what they wanted to see, and after a few minutes, all four upped and left.

Our brunch was OK-ish, but not enough to go back for. There was a slight casualness to the service that left me cold. Not enough to complain about, but… and as for the curious incident of the dog in the bistro, how typical that no one complained.

As retailers, we must now look to the best online players and see what we can learn. It’s not enough to assume that if a customer doesn’t complain, then they’re happy.

— Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

Goods has occupied its current spot in the heart of Copenhagen’s main shopping district since 2008. Surrounded by art galleries, vintage furniture stores and chic boutiques which boast that all-important and much-lusted over Scandinavian design aesthetic, the store is well placed to aim its range of apparel, gifts and accessories. Brands such as Sunspel, Levi’s Vintage and Norse Projects fit right in among the edit of key brands and selected pieces on offer here. In-store the minimalist aesthetic is kept simple, clean and free of clutter. A gentle colour scheme of green and white complements the overall laid-back tone of the store, with leafy plants and bright wooden fixtures acting as staple items. Recently, the store has introduced a fresh range of posters from The Poster Project, leather weekend bags from Porter and apothecary hand products from Frama, strengthening its gift, accessories and lifestyle offering. With a penchant for British-based brands, the store offer includes Harris Wharf London, Johnstons of Elgin and London Undercover umbrellas.

—

PLAN B

RICHARD MAZZEGA-WARD Rockport General Manager, UK & Ireland

I’d like to be a dog breeder and trainer of the Lagotto Romagnolo breed.

— This special breed of dog was almost extinct in 1996. However, due to its resilience, strength and intelligence, it was rescued and trained to find truffles in the heart of the Italian forest. It’s a very exclusive breed. Clarence has been with me now for six years, and is now ready to meet up with his first bitch and produce some baby Lagottos some time this year. He is responsive to training and loves swimming, hence the name Lagotto, as Lago is Italian for lake. He also likes meeting all sorts of people and is a very good judge of character. I think I will start to use him for future interviews. If you get past Clarence then you have a job with Rockport!

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK AUGUST 2016 | PEOPLE | 73

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL SIMON PARR SALES EXECUTIVE, GIBSON LONDON If I were to describe my style I suppose it would be ‘Ivy league’. In the early 1980s I was into the Mod scene. As I am of a certain age now, I have eased into the ‘preppy’ look. I think had I been a punk or New Romantic, and still worn the clothes of back then, I would look a bit odd at the school gates in full make-up, spiky hair and tartan trousers picking my daughter up. But dressed in a Harrington button-down shirt, chinos and loafers I can get away with it. My favourite piece would have to be my Baracuta Harrington jacket. I was lucky enough to work for Baracuta for some years and have collected a few on the way. The G4 made in England is the one for me, in navy. It doesn’t have the elastic cuffs and waist, so it’s a bit different.

TOP TWEETS Farrell @FarrellUK There is never anything good to come out of terrorism, except awareness and how compassion can change the world. Stay strong, friends.

Peter Brathwaite @PeterBrathwaite Loved the #HelloPaulSmith @ PaulSmithDesign exhibition. Beautifully curated show with a lot of heart. #Kyoto #Japan Joules @Joulesclothing Having a great day at the #JoulesSummerBBQ. Hoping the sun will make an appearance!

The Prince’s Trust @PrincesTrust Thanks for entering #TomorrowsBusiness Awards. Share the news with the world and best of luck!

When it comes to jeans it has to be Levi’s. My favourite pair are my LVC 1967 big E selvedge denim. I got them from American Classics some years ago, and they have just started to wear in and look great. I got a pair from there (the old Kings Road vintage shop) in 1985. Ripped and faded. I was having a clear out some years ago and took them back for their archive. My shirt of choice would have to be from John Simons. I was lucky enough to meet John when I was selling him Baracuta. His attention to detail is amazing, from the roll of the collar, to the pleat on the back. They are just great shirts. As for shoes, as an old Mod it has to be Bass ‘Weejun’ loafers or Clarks Originals desert boots. Worn with chinos or jeans what could be better. I recently got a pair of Gibson London white chinos for the summer.

Chris Baxter @IamChrisBaxter Legit trying not to get addicted to #PokemonGO

I ride both a 1974 Vespa and a Royal Enfield motorbike, so a Barbour International jacket is ideal. The one I have is the slim fit sample which never went into production.

I can’t see why; it looks great on.

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WGSN @wgsn Selfridges opens pop-up store theatre as part of Shakespeare anniversary celebrations

ASOS Menswear @ASOS_Menswear Summer, what summer? tricia lewis @fashionherald So excited: the new @Superdry is open on @34thStNYC! Great to have that old Esprit space looking fabulous

Masato Jones @masatostudio No more hashtags no more praying just stop taking innocent lives please

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p STELLA ARTOIS – THE OFFICIAL BEER OF THE WIMBLEDON CHAMPIONSHIPS – OPENED ITS DOORS TO THEIR UNIQUE AND IMMERSIVE TIME PORTAL, SPINNING A HOST OF FAMILIAR FACES BACK TO THE STREETS OF VICTORIAN LONDON FOR A NIGHT OF THEATRICS AND SURPRISES. GUESTS INCLUDED DOMINIC COOPER, DAVID HAYE AND LUKE PASQUALINO.

p DYLAN JONES OBE, ANYA HINDMARCH MBE, CAROLINE RUSH CBE, DAME NATALIE MASSENET, DAVID PEMSEL AND JOSÉ NEVES AT THE PHOTOCALL TO ANNOUNCE THE STRENGTHENING OF THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL BOARD WITH THE APPOINTMENT OF THREE NEW NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTORS – JONES, PEMSEL AND NEVES.

p COTTWEILER AND FAUSTINE STEINMETZ HAVE BEEN NAMED THE RESPECTIVE MENSWEAR AND WOMENSWEAR WINNERS OF THE 2016 INTERNATIONAL WOOLMARK PRIZE BRITISH ISLES REGIONAL FINAL. THE WINNERS WERE SELECTED AT AN AWARDS CEREMONY HELD AT THE AUSTRALIAN HIGH COMMISSION IN LONDON.

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THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

AMERICAN CLASSICS LEGEND REFLECTS ON LIFE AT SUMMIT OF RETAIL It’s 35 years this year since Cavan Cooper opened American Classics at 404 Kings Road. The old shop, and many would say the old road, are long gone, but Classics survives in its other stomping ground at 20 Endell Street, Covent Garden.

Cooper retired in 2007, leaving the business in the capable hands of his son, Adam,and store manager Rachel Brickley-Williams. But speaking to the old retail legend recently brought back goosebumps for how it was back in the day, when the shop was rocking, and the till was, not just ringing, but positively singing. “For a time we were probably the most famous shop in the world,” says Cooper. He’s probably right on that.

The famous, the cool and the wannabes all wanted a slice of American Classics. They simply came from everywhere.

One Saturday, Cooper, driving up the Kings Road to the shop from Sloane Square at the other end, counted 48 American Classics shopping bags. That would have been usual. “It must have been so disheartening for other retailers on the Kings Road back then,” offers Cooper. “People were coming from all over the country, and all over the world, stopping in every other shop asking, ‘Where’s American Classics?’ Well it’s a long way down from Sloane Square tube, so that’s quite a few retailers getting pissed off!”

It simply had cult status and, as Cooper points out, “stock you couldn’t get anywhere else that everyone wanted. Now everything is too easily available.” He reflects on a particular period between 1986-88 when they were selling ripped vintage Levi’s by the truck load.

“There were Sales signs up everywhere else, but we used to be packed out selling ripped jeans like you wouldn’t believe, so I got a sign writer in to put ‘Let it Rip’ on the shop window.” Nice touch. Cooper doesn’t think much of the ripped jeans the kids are wearing these days. “You can get them everywhere from every brand, and they look awful, so uncool – skintight with their knees poking out.” A legend has spoken, and there’s plenty more where that came from. Watch this space!

p (RE)CREATE IS THE LATEST STYLING PROJECT FROM WHO’S NEXT AND PREMIERE CLASSE t 35 YEARS SINCE THE OPENING OF AMERICAN CLASSICS

MENSWEAR RETAILER GETS BILL BRYSON MENTION It’s not often that menswear retailers are mentioned in books that are nothing about menswear, so it was a nice little surprise to see Potters of Buxton (since 1860 no less) dedicated almost two pages in Bill Bryson’s latest UK travelogue, The Road to Little Dribbling: More Notes from a Small Island. Bryson’s charm, wit and observation can rip towns, places and businesses apart with hilarious skill, so when he really likes something it’s high praise indeed. At the time of his visit the owners of Potters had no idea who he was, which makes it all the more reassuring that this particular ‘secret shopper’ was so taken with the charm, mystique and products available at an old school menswear retailer in a very quaint and historical part of England.

Bryson writes: “I was greatly taken with some of the shirts they had for sale, entirely because of the name: ‘Seidensticker Splendesto’. It’s so good a name it ought to be a word in its own right, denoting a higher level of excellence beyond splendid. I even thought of a slogan for them: ‘Splendestro – when splendid isn’t good enough.’”

You’ve got to love that.

(RE)CREATE PROJECT GIVES DESIGNERS RICH VINTAGE PICKINGS A creative new project instigated by Who’s Next and Premiere Classe in Paris for this year’s show has invited seven up-and-coming young designers down to an enormous warehouse, host to 3,500 tonnes of secondhand clothing. They are free to explore the incredible playground of hidden treasures, with the vision of creating a capsule collection of 20 pieces each, as part of a styling exercise known as (RE)CREATE. The ‘incredible playground’ that is the Eureka Fripe stock warehouse in Rouen is best known for its emblematic shop window at Kiliwatch Paris. This enormous warehouse is apparently a supplier to some of the world’s best vintage clothing stores. For a whole day, the designers were plunged into this vast sea of garments, tasked with recovering hidden treasures to customise. From 1-5 September the pieces will be at the Who’s Next and Premiere Class trade shows at the Porte de Versailles in Paris. And, from 1 September until 2 October, the limited edition collections will go on sale at the Kiliwatch Paris vintage store in Etienne Marcel, Paris. Power to the vintage.

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LAST ORDERS WITH...

NINA DOBSON An avid supporter of manufacturing here on home soil, the founder of menswear label DOBSON Clothing, Nina Dobson, learned her craft at the likes of Timothy Everest and Griffin before launching her own venture. Victoria Jackson catches up with the designer to find out what drew her to the menswear industry, the challenges of British production and the typical DOBSON man.

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You launched DOBSON Clothing in 2014: what drew you to working within the menswear industry?

Spending my time looking at stylish men for a living – what’s not to love? I prefer men’s clothes and tend to look for simplicity and refined details in garments, which is usually more apparent in menswear. I’ve also found that, on the whole, people working in the menswear industry tend to be more straightforward and laid-back than with womenswear and I like that a lot.

What’s the inspiration behind your signature garment, the workwear jacket?

I’d designed menswear for over a decade before starting my own brand, and over that time had amassed a fair few inspirational pieces of clothing in my own collection.

Although I’d been designing mostly quite formal garments over that time, my own collection consisted of 1950s and 1960s casual jackets and overshirts as well as some very distressed and lovingly repaired workwear pieces. However, I never wanted to replicate vintage; there are plenty of other brands that do that and DOBSON was never going to be one.

The mid-century casual shirts and jackets had a refined feel in comparison to current casualwear, but where woollen fabrics were used they were often scratchy and in a very unappealing vintage brown. From my time spent at Yorkshire weavers creating bespoke woollen suiting fabrics towards the beginning of my career, at Timothy Everest and Griffin, and designing knitwear more recently, I had also become a little obsessed with the wonderful properties of wool – it’s one of the most effective forms of all-weather protection known to man.

I knew I could breathe new life into these styles, making subtle changes to the cut, detailing and trims for a more modern feel, and in also changing the fabrics to premium wool fabrics in a contemporary colour palette, create something that is a great pleasure to wear.

What makes the DOBSON workwear shirt and jacket unique is that they are casual garments in refined fabrics, creating pieces that truly bridge a gap between formal and casual.

What do you think can be done to persuade more brands to bring production back home?

Creating a situation where brands can be matched with the right manufacturers to grow and invest together would be my idea of a perfect situation. Many manufacturers are still struggling to recover after some major retailers pulled production out of the UK around 15 years ago and I think the technology is in danger of falling behind and skills disappearing. I feel the government needs to jump-start the industry financially to help it recover to where it was in the past. On the other hand, a change also needs to come from consumers. The expectation that clothing is cheap and throwaway needs to change, and the real cost of clothing production needs to be addressed.

What’s your inspiration for the s/s 17 collection?

The inspiration continues to come from workwear pieces and mid-century styling, reworked in British fabrics. Each season I imagine a muse – real or fictional – and this keeps it fresh. For the new season the muse was concocted in my mind from a mix of stylish buyers seen in Paris and the idea of a brooding military test pilot.

How would you describe the typical DOBSON man?

Engineers of software, architects of information, builders of the digital universe who explore the

DOB: 28 July 1978 Place of Birth: Great Yarmouth, Norfolk Lives: Cromer, Norfolk Twitter: @DOBSONclothing Website www.dobsonclothing.com

scope of human achievement from ultra-clean studios and workshops. Our customers do indeed work in these fields: our very first online sale was to Cupertino, California and after a little digging we discovered he was a designer at Apple. First shot right on target.

Would you consider expanding the collection?

The strategy of the brand is to evolve slowly, aiming for our core styles to develop organically over time, creating lasting items that can be worn any season, every year. We have just developed the perfect informal trouser which complements our jackets and overshirts and we will continue to develop key pieces over time. We have some exciting new stockists in Japan as well as some pop-ups in the pipeline in some great locations in the UK towards the end of the year. We’ll continue to evolve the range gradually, with new options being offered as exclusives and limited editions to wholesale as well as on our website.

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