WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2016 ISSUE 259/ £6.95
PEAK PERFORMANCE HIGH IMPACT Spotlight on the latest athleisure brands fusing function with fashion RISING STAR Why Canadian label Picadilly is proving a hit with UK boutiques SOCIAL GATHERING Indies share their Instagram success stories
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SHORT CIRCUIT
The key looks and brands to top up your in-store offer now
42/ T H E P E R S O N A L TOUCH
Behind the scenes at Cambridge indie Boudoir Femme
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FASHION SVP
WWB previews the manufacturing show
46/ H K T D C H O N G K O N G FASHION WEEK
WWB reports back from the 23rd edition of one of Asia’s key fashion events
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THE PICK OF S/S17
WWB editor Isabella Griffiths picks some of her favourite labels of the season
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50/ L O N D O N F A S H I O N WEEK
The key trends from the s/s 17 designer catwalks
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EDITOR’S COMMENT
RETAIL FORUM
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E-TAIL CLINIC
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TALKING POINT
Expert e-commerce advice
THE LAST WORD
With retailer and brand owner Anna Park
Your views on the issues shaping the industry
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With Palladio’s Shaun Sellings and Ian Campbell-Smith
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STYLE FILE
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GOTHIC GLAM
Gloomy meets sassy in this key trend to get in-store now
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GLOBAL PLAYER
Picadilly’s ambitions for UK growth
VISUAL IMPACT
How retailers are using Instagram to drive sales
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FIT FOR SUCCESS
WWB takes a look at the latest brands rocking the athleisure trend
33/ S T E P P I N G A W A Y F R O M THE HERD
What’s next from knitwear specialist Slaith
34/ T R E N D F O C U S : ACCESSORIES
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From fragrances and candles through watches and gadgets to backpacks, we have the latest fashion add-ons covered
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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Writer Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com
Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths
Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323
WWB is published 9 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2016 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.
The s/s 17 season has brought about a seismic change in the way brands market and sell their collections, for the first time ever moving away from traditional trade patterns and what used to be relatively closed events to a straight-toconsumer format. Digital developments have been changing the way consumers engage with fashion, and how brands engage with consumers, for a while now, most notably when international catwalk shows started to be streamed live to the public a few years ago. Now this has been taken a step further, with the likes of Burberry, Topshop Unique, Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren having introduced their ‘runway-to-retail’ concepts, giving consumers the opportunity to buy items straight from the catwalk immediately after the show, and not months down the line as previously. It’s evident that catwalks and fashion weeks are no longer private trade events, open solely to a select elite of industry insiders and buyers, but that they have become media, marketing and sales spectacles aimed squarely at the public. It’s a great coup for those mega brands like Burberry, who have the resources to experiment with this instantaneous buying pattern, but it throws up a whole host of questions about how the rest of the industry will fare in comparison, how other brands and smaller multi-brand retailers can compete with consumers’ everaccelerating desire for instant access to trends.
In Burberry’s case, the brand has ensured that its s/s 17 styles are available at wholesale level at the same time as they hit its retail channels by getting buyers to make pre-selections on styles – under embargo – prior to its catwalk show. It may work for Burberry, but I can’t see this translating to other market sectors and brands very easily. Whilst this is the first season the straight-toconsumer formats have been trialled, it will be interesting to see whether and how this will trickle down into other sectors in the market; I do think that it will in some way, maybe not immediately, but further down the line, fuelled by consumers who are already adopting a ‘see now, buy now’ mentality. This will put increased pressure on brands, especially smaller ones who predominantly trade via wholesale channels and don’t have their own production and retail infrastructure like these power brands. They have no choice but to have longer lead times and buying patterns due to the make up of their supply chain and sales structure. By the same token, all this raises additional questions over the relevance of seasonal patterns once more, something brands and retailers across all market levels have been debating and dealing with for a while now. We take a closer look at this issue in our lead news story on page 8. Ultimately, the customer is always king, and consumers will continue to drive and dictate the industry’s sales patterns in the future. Remaining open, reactive and adaptable will therefore be key.
WWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group PLC company
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CONSUMERS CALL SEASONAL COLLECTIONS INTO QUESTION Changes to buying and production schedules as well as marketing strategies are required to safeguard clothing sales.
The introduction of runway-to-retail formats by high-profile brands such as Burberry, Tommy Hilfiger and Topshop Unique for s/s 17 once again poses a question mark over the relevance of seasonal collections in the light of increased consumer demand for instantly available fashion. According to a study by retail analyst Verdict, 85.6 per cent of clothing shoppers say they like to buy clothing that they can wear straight away for the current weather, while 51.4 per cent say they do not like to buy clothing well in advance for the season ahead, such as buying summer clothing in March/April when retailers traditionally launch their new spring/summer collections. The study highlights that traditional buying cycles are no longer in sync with the way consumers like to shop for clothing; unpredictable weather patterns have rendered seasonal drops obsolete, while social media has also shortened fashion cycles and created a ‘see now, buy now, wear now’ mentality, generating constant desire for new products. According to Verdict, these consumer attitudes are in part reflected in retailer performances, as major high street players such as Next and Primark struggle to drive like-for-like sales, while the winners in the market, such as SuperDry and Zara, have ensured product and merchandising strategies are more aligned to consumer shopping habits. SuperDry’s core offer is made up of predominantly transseasonal ranges, ensuring it is not overly exposed to any particular weather, while Zara uses its vertically integrated
supply chain to be weather responsive via flexible phasing, reactive product drops and frequent visual merchandising updates. “Poor weather remains a stock explanation for stalling sales for most clothing retailers, but it is one that is slowly losing credence. Consumers’ shopping habits are changing, and seasonal product drops are increasingly irrelevant when shoppers prefer to buy across seasons,” says Nivindya Sharma, senior analyst at Verdict. According to Sharma, retailers must ensure in-store and online merchandising is reflective of the current weather, and window displays showcase outfits that can be worn straight away, to draw shoppers in and drive impulse purchases. Marketing strategies must be primarily tailored towards new trends, star products or seasonal events, much like the online players such as ASOS and boohoo.com, rather than around new seasons. “While there is little retailers can do to influence the weather, or to counter the decline in consumer confidence and willingness to spend during bad weather periods, there is much that can be done to ensure product is relevant and reflective of current weather,” says Sharma. “Ultimately, product buying and phasing cycles will have to become more flexible, frequent and responsive, but retailers must make quick wins with marketing and visual merchandising in the meantime.”
FOR DAILY NEWS, ANALYSIS AND UPDATES, VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
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NEWS IN BRIEF JACK WOLFSKIN LAUNCHES IN LIVERPOOL ONE German outdoor clothing and equipment brand Jack Wolfskin has opened a new store in Liverpool One. The 3,000 sq ft store on Paradise Street stocks the full range of Jack Wolfskin clothing and accessories for men, women and children.
BHS RELAUNCHES ONLINE
CHIC CHINA SUCCESS WITH LATEST EDITION
BHS has made its retail comeback with the launch of a new e-commerce site. Owned by the Qatari Al Mana Group, which also operates a string of high street brands such as Zara, Mango, Armani Exchange and Reebok, and led by MD David Anderson, former head of international at BHS, the new BHS will focus on lighting and home furnishing products. These constituted around 75 per cent of the most popular online items sold before the group went into administration earlier this year. Select lines of clothing are planned to be added by early November. A new online platform has been developed which aims to be one of the most user-friendly systems in the market, with customers able to order and check out with just two clicks, as well as alowing them to log on to the website with one device such as their mobile phone, and continue their shopping experience on another, such as a laptop or tablet.
The autumn edition of China’s fashion trade show Chic closed on a high, with a 15 per cent increase in visitor numbers compared to this time last year and a total of 65,714 visitors. The show, which took place mid October in Shanghai, attracted 837 brands from 21 nations, divided into several clear market segments, covering womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, accessories, designer labels and up and coming talent. While there were fewer department store and shopping mall buyers in attendance, the number of multi-brand stores, independents, e-tailers and international boutiques rose. “Chic Autumn gives an overview of leading brands, but it also offers smaller brands the possibility to meet prospective buyers,” says Chen Dapeng, executive vice president of China National Garment Association and head of Chic. Many of the brands in attendance have already signed up for the show’s next edition, which takes place 15 to 17 March 2017.
ATTERLEY PURSUES AMBITIOUS EXPANSION DRIVE E-tail platform Atterley.com, which enables independent fashion boutiques and brands to sell online via its site, aims to become the biggest network of its kind in an ambitious expansion drive, led by founder and entrepreneur Mike Welch. The e-commerce site, which went live at the end of September, is working with high profile indies such as Young Ideas, Jane Davidson, Black White Denim, Precious, Jules B and Question Air, and is said to have taken over 300 enquiries from UK boutiques and 250 from international stores, with suitable retailers being integrated over the next few months and into 2017.
JOHN LEWIS MD STEPS DOWN The John Lewis Partnership has confirmed that Andy Street will step down as managing director on 28 October. After a 31-year career with the Partnership, including nine years as John Lewis managing director, Street has been selected as the official Conservative Party candidate for the office of Mayor of the West Midlands. His successor for the role will be announced in due course. BRAKEBURN PUSHES AHEAD WITH GROWTH British lifestyle brand Brakeburn has extended its UK sales team with the appointment of Tom Vallance and Chris Thompson. The brand has experienced another strong season for s/s 17, having recently added Snow + Rock to its list of stockists, which covers over 400 stores in the UK. Brakeburn is also rapidly expanding across Europe and is currently represented in 16 countries. PREMIUM GROUP ACQUIRES SHOW & ORDER Premium Group, the organisers of international trade fairs Premium, SEEK, Bright, #FashionTect and Premium Order Munich, has acquired Show & Order, offering over 1,800 brands for the coming season. The founder, Verena Malta, will remain the face of Show & Order, while it will continue to take place at the unique Kraftwerk venue in Berlin’s Köpenicker Strasse, half way between Premium and Seek and Bright.
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NEWS IN BRIEF
TAMARIS
BRANDS CONFIRM MODA PRESENCE
HIGH HEELS TAKE A TUMBLE
Leading national trade show Moda Woman has revealed a strong line-up of early signings for its a/w 17 edition, taking place from 19 to 21 February at the NEC in Birmingham. Core brands at next season’s show will include Jack Murphy (pictured), Lily & Me, Rino & Pelle, FDJ, L’Argentina, Badoo, Captain Corsaire, Conrad C, Junge, Aventures des Toiles, Picadilly, Frank Lyman and Jessica Graaf. Moda Woman will also strengthen its accessories offer, with a return of British heritage brand Dents, and a reappearance from Dante following its successful relocation into Moda Woman this summer. In occasionwear and eveningwear, stalwart labels Mascara, L’Atelier, Dress Code, Veromia Occasions, Irresistible and Linea Rafaelli will present their latest designs within Moda’s dedicated Noir area. Moda Loves, the dedicated platform for in- season and on-trend collections, will enjoy an enhanced presence this autumn, with confirmed brands including City Goddess, Hell Bunny and Retro by Jordash.
New research from market analyst Mintel reveals that 37 per cent of UK women who have bought footwear in the last year bought trainers, compared to 33 per cent who bought shoes with a heel. Previously, the ratio between trainers and high heels sold was equal, as last year 35 per cent of women bought trainers and 35 per cent of women bought high heels. The trend is driven by women aged 35 to 44, with almost half (48 per cent) of women in this age group having bought trainers in the past year, compared to 30 per cent of the same group who bought heels. Overall, flat shoes are still the most popular type of shoes purchased at 51 per cent, with women’s flat boots (30 per cent) and flat sandals (25 per cent) following in fourth and fifth place after trainers and heels. The findings suggest that the popularity of heels is falling in general, as 59 per cent of female footwear buyers prefer to wear flat shoes, compared to just 12 per cent who prefer to wear high-heeled shoes.
PROFIT INCREASE AT JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN British cashmere specialist Johnstons of Elgin has announced profits before tax of £7.8m, with underlying operating profit of £3.9m, up from £2.3m in the prior year. The result was supported by a one-off gain on the sale of Johnstons’ London office of £4.1m. Sales grew to £66.7m, up 13.6 per cent on the prior year, and gross margins were up slightly (+0.4 per cent). Simon Cotton, CEO, says he is expecting a similar positive outlook overall for the financial year ahead, driven by investment in technology, as well as the appointment of new creative director Alan Scott, despite a continued challenging trading environment.
MICHAEL KORS EXPANDS WITH BLUEWATER STORE US designer brand Michael Kors has opened a new store at Bluewater shopping centre. The 2,800 sq ft standalone boutique is the first for the brand in the south east. Located in a prominent corner position on Bluewater’s lower Guildhall, adjacent to Aspinal, Hackett and Tommy Hilfiger, the store stocks the brand’s full range of accessories, including watches, jewellery, handbags, footwear and eyewear. In addition, the Michael Kors Collection and MICHAEL Michael Kors ranges are available, as well as the brand’s trademark fragrances. The store was designed by Michael Kors’ in-house team to create a modern and luxurious atmosphere. YOOX UNVEILS NEW LOOK Online lifestyle destination Yoox.com has unveiled a brand new look on its website, as well as launching its native App with iOS 10 integrated features. Reinvented and redesigned to upgrade user-friendliness, the new Yoox offers an enhanced customisation developed around user geolocation, previous buying history and real-time browsing behaviour. The new homepage hosts favourite designers and item categories, while real-time meteorological forecasts shape the offer in selected galleries, created according to local weather WACOAL EUROPE APPOINTS COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR International lingerie and swimwear group Wacoal Europe has appointed Dean Cooper as commercial director. He will lead the commercial teams across of the group’s global markets and brands, including Wacoal, Fantasie, Freya, Elomi, b.tempt’d and Goddess, with responsibility for setting and delivering the sales strategy. Cooper has extensive experience in the clothing and retail industry and has previously held positions at Diesel, Burberry, Camper and Paul Smith.
WOMAN & ACCESSORIES 19-21 FEBRUARY 2017
NEC Birmingham
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NEWS IN BRIEF
SCOOP GEARS UP FOR A/W EDITION
OUTERWEAR NAMES FOR FOUR MARKETING
Following its one-off summer edition at Old Billingsgate market in July, leading boutique trade show Scoop is gearing up for the a/w season and a return to its original home, the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea, London. In the elegant setting of one of London’s most iconic galleries, Scoop’s 15th edition will build on its unique aesthetic, fusing fashion and art, and an exclusive mix of home grown and international designers, up and coming labels and global brands, covering a diverse mix of ready-towear, accessories, footwear, jewellery, perfumery and a host of lifestyle products. Brands on show at the a/w 17 edition include UK labels Conditions Apply, Goat, Quinton & Chadwick, Hudson and Mercy Delta. They are joined by a mix of designer collections from across the globe. The next edition of Scoop takes place from 12 to 14 February. For more information visit www.scoop-international.com.
Premium fashion agency Four Marketing has acquired two outerwear brands, Penfield and Cape Heights, from CEO and creative director James Barshall. Penfield, which was founded in Hudson, Massachusetts in 1975, is known for producing high quality fashionable, functional outerwear embodying the New England aesthetic. Cape Heights was established in the 1990s but had been dormant for a number of years before its relaunch in 2011, primarily for the demanding Japanese market and with a focus on down jackets for high-end independent retailers. Penfield and Cape Heights are distributed worldwide via department stores and premium independents. “We are delighted to welcome the Penfield and Cape Heights brands into the Four Marketing business. We look forward to the opportunity to further build on the global success of each brand,” says Charles Perez, CEO of Four Marketing.
OVER 50S PRESENT BIGGEST GROWTH OPPORTUNITY The UK womenswear market, which is set to reach £23.8bn in 2016, offers ample opportunities for retailers targeting a currently underserved generation of women over 50, according to retail research and analysis firm Verdict Retail. According to the company’s latest report, 2016 has brought some of the toughest trading conditions for womenswear retailers since the 2008 recession. However, there remain opportunities in the market, with the 50-plus segment proving both lucrative and relatively unexploited. Kate Ormrod, senior analyst at Verdict Retail, explains: “The 50-plus womenswear shopper is notoriously neglected, with few players actively catering to mature consumers, and a lack of choice limiting spend. Those that do target this segment focus on occasionwear, with casualwear largely overlooked.” She adds: “Targeting this age group does not necessarily require a huge shift in proposition, as 50+ shoppers want the same style and design as younger females. Retailers must emphasise how their proposition is relevant by marketing ranges to an older demographic, and incorporating more mature and stylish models in campaigns.”
GERRY WEBER OPENS FLAGSHIP WITH INTERACTIVE FITTING ROOM German womenswear brand Gerry Weber has reopened its flagship store in Hamburg, Germany following extensive refurbishment, unveiling a new interactive fitting room. The store on the city’s Jungfernstieg boulevard features the first interactive fitting room from US based Oak Labs in Europe, combining innovation and a personalised shopping experience. The mirror uses RFID technology to detect the number of items in the room and shows product information, including the product image, colour and size variations available and recommended products on the mirror. Customers can send a help request for other sizes and colours to a sales associate’s mobile device. At the same time, they can view additional recommended products, colours and combinations. Another touch function allows the light to be adjusted to showcase important moods and moments for the shopper. FOX WILLIAMS’ ANNUAL AGENTLAW SEMINAR Business law firm Fox Williams’ annual Agentlaw seminar will take place on 9 November and will include talks on various topics of interest to the fashion industry. Held at the company’s offices at Ten Dominion Street, London EC2M 2EE, the seminar is free to attend, with the guest speaker Oliver Segal QC, a leading barrister within the field of the Commercial Agency Regulations, talking about ‘Repudiatory breach in agency contracts – why should principals and agents be concerned?’ Registration for the seminar opens at 6pm, with presentations and Q&As from 6.30-7.30pm, and networking with drinks and canapés from 7.308.30pm. To reserve a seminar place, contact slsidkin@foxwilliams.com or events@foxwilliams.com.
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Talking Point
Your views on the issues shaping the industry Forging partnerships between agents, brands and retailers
LIZ D’ESTERRE is owner of Liz d’Esterre Fashion Agency. The spring/summer 17 season saw the launch of my new enterprise, the Liz d’Esterre Fashion Agency, and what a journey it’s been. I have been completely overwhelmed with the wonderful support I have received from retailers, other fellow agents and ex-colleagues and friends in the trade, which has proved to me once more what a wonderful industry we are all working in.
Adaptability is crucial in retail
TRACEE HARVARD speaks to Emma Woodward, co-owner of Aspire Style, who is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB). We are a small chain of independent lifestyle boutiques selling an eclectic but carefully chosen portfolio of products, including fashion, jewellery, unique and hard to find gifts, handbags, homeware and shoes. We opened our first shop in 2004; having
I have had a fabulous response from customers who have come to view the new collections, leaving with orders for one or sometimes all four brands. I have gathered together a strong mix of labels, offering four very chic and diverse looks for the discerning woman. All brands have an excellent history, and a great reputation for quality, reliability and continuity, having been established for many years, even if new to the United Kingdom. For a/w 17, I will be adding an exciting and sophisticated special occasion label to my coterie of collections, which will complete the offer. Many great new brands are knocking at the doors of the UK looking for representation. The retailer is swamped with choice which means that it is so important for brands to offer supreme styling, reliability, quality and value for money. Individual handwriting is, of course, a must. When brands appear to merge into one another with the same colour palette, choice of fabrics and even prints, the interest is lost. It is of course essential to work together, to forge a partnership with the retailer and the brand and to offer support where needed, be it with advertising, media coverage, promotional
arrangements, staff training days and charity events. The retailer needs to be aware that the brand and the agent are happy to be working with them, to help in the ultimate goal of successful sales. This results in a more profitable, not to mention more enjoyable, experience for all concerned. The s/s 17 season seemed to kick off slowly, not helped by the cold start to summer, which made trading for retailers more difficult than usual, and with the warm weather arriving on the first day of the summer sales. However, business picked up and feedback from retailers suggests pleasingly good results were achieved overall. The importance of fabulous imagery cannot be stressed enough, in particular with so many retailers now managing their own websites and internet business, and online sales which continue to grow. Having said that, the importance of the independent boutiques with their professional and personal service can never be underestimated. Autumn/winter 17 has begun well, with retailers reporting sales of heavy winter coats on some of our hottest days. Let’s hope trading continues in this vein for the rest of the season.
opened five stores within 12 years has been no mean feat, but one of the things that has helped the business grow is its ability to adapt throughout the year. Not all products sell as well at the same time: in the summer we find the clothing category is a strong seller for us, with brands such as Emily & Fin, Orla Kiely, Sugarhill Boutique, Little Mistress, Collectif and Closet – basically brands that offer a modern twist on vintage style – being really popular. As we get closer to Christmas, however, this subsides, and we reduce our clothing offer and increase the area for gifts, accessories and related items. We have to constantly analyse, adapt and evolve to survive and thrive. But herein lies the advantage of being an independent – we are more flexible to do that, to sell what we want and we can adapt quicker than the high street chains can. We capitalise on trends and time-related scenarios which store chains are restricted from. This opens an avenue for us to showcase our unique style and range, which helps us to stand out among other retailers. That said, I still find it quite a challenge to
order and book a season ahead while also keeping tabs on the current season. It’s the non-stop cycle of our industry, but I love it. With Christmas approaching, we are now in the midst of planning our marketing and sales strategy. This year we will be once again participating in Black Friday. It’s more of a strategic tool for us; we don’t just participate to make money, but we also aim to sell stock that doesn’t move easily and clear our stock to make room for new Christmas product. Funnily enough, over the last few years we have found that people actually buy more of our full-priced items that aren’t part of Black Friday, so in many ways it’s a win-win situation for us. Aside from that one big Black Friday sale, we won’t be going into early discounting. It’s not always easy to resist that when everyone else is starting their sales before Christmas, but we just don’t believe in it. Sometimes, as indies, we have to stand our ground on these matters. So we wait until the end of the season for our sales to start which means we have a sale after Christmas, not before. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk
A D V E R T O R I A L / 15 www.stylefruits.co.uk
“App First”: More than 65 percent of people in the UK shop via app Consumers use mobile apps to get inspired, search and shop In m-commerce, apps in particular generate a pleasant customer experience. A successful app business requires the right features to achieve a high level of usability and thus increase conversion. But what does an app need to offer to keep users happy in the long term? In a bid to answer this question, stylefruits, the leading European style advice platform, teamed up with Innofact AG to conduct a representative survey aimed at internet users in the United Kingdom about their use of mobile apps. A focus group of 1,000 consumers participated in the online survey in February this year, giving insightful data into their shopping habits through an app. Below are the key findings. App usage in the UK: get inspired, search and shop More than 65 percent of the internet users surveyed in the UK shop via mobile apps; just under half (46.4 percent) even do so more than once a month. Seventythree percent of users particularly value having the option to search for products quickly and with ease. Just under a fifth (18.6 percent) of the respondents even use this function more than once a week. Almost 70 percent of the respondents turn to mobile apps for inspiration. Sixty-five percent of them use apps to find product reviews and recommendations; more than half (52 percent) write product reviews and recommendations themselves. In the UK, apps are most popular among the 16-29 age group: over 90 percent use apps to search for products, and 86 percent browse for inspiration and purchase products via app. Top category: clothing, shoes and accessories Clothing, shoes and accessories came out on top as the most popular category for shopping via app. Just under 40 percent of internet users in the UK have already purchased products from this category through an app. Books and media ranked second with 33 percent, and electronics followed with 31 percent. Medication and health products, meanwhile, came up last – just 12 percent of respondents have purchased products from this category via mobile app. Fashion app usage: giving and taking fashion advice Forty-three percent of respondents use fashion apps to get feedback from other users, communities and experts on their own look. Plus, 47 percent read other users’ reviews and recommendations, and 40 percent also offer fashion-related advice themselves. The survey shows that the right piece of advice can lead to a purchase: 31 percent of the women and men surveyed in the UK shop using fashion apps more than once a month. Seventeen percent of respondents use fashion apps to get style inspiration more than once a week, and almost 10 percent use them to look for specific fashion products every day.
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Ian Campbell-Smith and Shaun Sellings, joint owners and directors of Palladio Associates, set up their agency in 1990 with the aim to supply a new breed of contemporary designers to UK retailers looking for something fresh. Twenty-six years down the line, they’re still going strong, though their business has adapted to an everchanging marketplace, as Tom Bottomley discovers. Tom Bottomley: How did you originally come to start the business? Ian Campbell-Smith: Shaun and I were both working for British designers in the late 1980s. Shaun was at Ally Capellino as sales manager, and I was working with Sara Sturgeon. Then we decided to get together and launch this agency in 1990. Everything was very branded at the time, and we wanted to go against the grain. Shaun Sellings: When we started, Ally Capellino came with us. As an established contemporary designer brand, which was pretty big at the time, that was like the lynchpin to the start of it for us. We felt there was a niche in the market for an agency that looked after contemporary designers. TB: Although you started with an established name, hasn’t it always been more about breaking new designers in the market for you? ICS: Yes, we’ve always concentrated on building up brands. Over the years we’ve worked with people like Orla Kiely and John Rocha. They are obviously well known businesses now. SS: We built them up to such a stage where it was really the launch pad for them to go on to greater things. With Orla Kiely, we built the business up to something like 10 times what it was when we started with it. Then they took it in house, which was bound to happen at some point. With John Rocha, we took it to the level where he got the Debenhams deal. The rest is history, as they say. TB: Is it disappointing to have it taken away when you’ve done all the ground work building the brands? ICS: It is, but you expect it really. You’ve got to build it in to your business plan that someone is going to get so big that they are going to leave.
TB: How do you go about looking for brands now? ICS: We’re led by our customers really. We take feedback from them with what they are looking for, and we just go out there and try to find it. It’s what we’ve always been good at. It can be very particular, and driven by specific key items and looks. They may not be brands that have much longevity, but have the right product for the moment. Customers expect us to be able to refresh their offer the whole time. SS: Customers do always expect us to have something new, whether it’s a new clothing collection, accessories, or whatever. It’s what we’re known for, having the best of the next best thing. We save their legwork. TB: Do you find it increasingly difficult to stay ahead of the game? ICS: I think the biggest issue is for us to stay relevant with what the market needs. We do that by having loads of young people working for us. We take note of what they’re telling us. We’ve seen a lot come round, and come round again, but we just have to remember that the people we’re employing haven’t seen it before and for them it’s fresh and exciting. SS: I’m just waiting for the puffball skirt to come back round – for the fourth time! TB: What are your strongest brands now? ICS: Rino & Pelle is a Dutch outerwear brand that is really successful here in the UK, which we have nearly 200 customers with. SS: Vilagallo is another important one for us. We have about 130 customers for that now. It’s a Spanish brand and they have a store on South Molton Street. It’s quirky contemporary occasion wear, though they are now developing it to day dresses and a complete look. The price points are amazing for the
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IAN CAMPBELL-SMITH AND SHAUN SELLINGS OWNERS AND DIRECTORS, PALLADIO ASSOCIATES
quality you get. We also have Hartford on both men’s and women’s. The women’s has grown and is now as strong as the men’s. In fact the women’s business has nearly doubled from last summer. Suddenly it’s just really taken off. TB: How was the s/s 17 selling season for you? ICS: Generally we had some reservations about going in to the s/s 17 selling season with the Brexit vote and all, but it’s actually turned out to be a really strong season for us. Retailers seem to be really just getting their heads down and getting on with it. There doesn’t seem to have been any let-up on buying budgets, though I do think there will be more in-season buying. TB: How important are the trade shows to your business? ICS: They’ve been very beneficial for our business. We do Scoop with most of our brands, Pure with a smaller section of brands, and Moda with our more commercial offerings such as Rino & Pelle and Vilagallo. SS: We physically can’t see everyone at the showroom – there are not enough hours in the day. We have an active canvas of nearly 400 customers on the women’s side, and then men’s on top of that. So, literally, if a smaller independent just wants to buy in to the Rino & Pelle collection, then it’s easier for them to do it at a show. But most retailers that come to the showroom buy in to a minimum of three or four collections, sometimes as many as 10. Some customers do their buy over two days and just literally work their way through the showroom. And that is what we want – we just want 200 of those. The plan is to be a one-stop shop, with collections that work together but don’t compete against each other.
TB: Do you still consider your agency to be very contemporary? ICS: I don’t think we’re as contemporary as we used to be. I think we’ve settled more in to the upper-middle market. We’re not working with the British designers we’ve worked with in the past. Overall our business has become a bit more commercial. SS: That’s been intentional though, because to get through that last recession, which was a nightmare, you simply had to have more commercial brands. I don’t know which agents in the UK market would say they worked through the recession by only working with high priced designer brands. If they were also selling throughout Europe and worldwide, then maybe. TB: Is there anything you are keeping your eyes out for now? SS: It comes back to listening to what our customers are saying. We currently need to find a dress collection. We used to have three, but dresses kind of went out a bit – and now they’re coming back, so we’ve had to try to source a good one, which we think we’ve done. ICS: A new brand that we can confirm we will be working with is an Italian brand called Space Style Concept. That will answer our customers’ demands for well-priced contemporary dressing. We’re also on the lookout for bigger brands to bring in to the mix. Brands that are more meaty, with good advertising and PR behind them. That’s maybe where we’re lacking a bit at the moment. But we’re ready for that. We’ve got an amazing team in place here now.
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Style File
The hottest brands not to miss this month q BEJEWELLED London jewellery brand Nocturne’s latest collection once again focuses on head-turning pieces, using an unconventional mix of materials and traditional Asian artisan techniques. A trip to Korea inspired the s/s 17 collection, featuring shells, rhinestones and gold-plated brass and marble.
u IT’S A WRAP Young British designer Bibi Herron is making a name for herself following the launch of her luxury silk scarf collection. Each style has been individually created through a combination of the designer’s drawings, archived photographs and digital manipulation and then ethically printed and hand finished in the brand’s factory in Lake Como, Italy.
Shoes with a strong identity, comfort and an avant-garde twist come from footwear designer Joe Nephis, who only uses Italian leather whilst also incorporating new materials and applications into each collection. From trendy flats to uber-chic heels, the collection features a diversity of styles.
t IN THE BAG Dutch handbag and accessories brand Bulaggi aims to strike a balance between functionality and design, with two seasonal collections and two flash collections. The s/s 17 line is inspired by the concept of individuality, with minimalist lines across classic silhouettes key. Backpacks, totes and shoppers’ bags are all included in the range.
t A CUP ABOVE British luxury lingerie label Adina Reay creates contemporary and covetable lingerie for DD plus cup sizes, using whisper-fine yet strong fabrics to create panels and clever seaming that maximises support within the cup. Leavers lace, bespoke Austrian embroideries, satins and tulles also feature.
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Gothic Glam Gloomy meets sassy in this season’s Goth trend. Lacedashed, luxed-up and irrepressibly glamorous, key features include bold fabrics, feminine design and pops of colour. WWB selects the pieces available to get in-store now. 04/
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1/ ONAR STUDIOS £87 00358 4070 44220 • 2/ WAVEN £14 020 3475 2303 3/ EMI £22 0041 7643 22332 • 4/ BIANCA ELGAR £105.28 01865 721468 5/ TED BAKER price on request 0345 450 2484 • 6/ COACH £66.76 020 3808 2672 7/ WOLF AND WHISTLE £22 07807 361457 • 8/ SHELLYS LONDON £45 020 3728 9988 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
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Global player After 40 years of successful growth and international expansion as one of Canada’s leading womenswear brands, Picadilly is stepping up its UK presence, offering a collection that focuses on timeless lifestyle products and commercial appeal. Isabella Griffiths finds out more.
Canadian fashion has long been associated with hugely successful and commercial brands, popular the world over for versatile and wearable styling, from day through evening to occasionwear and more. And Picadilly is no exception. For over 40 years now the brand has been among the country’s key fashion players; a familyowned and run business that has managed to both evolve and adapt with the times whilst also staying true to its core brand values – effortless chic and ageless elegance that appeals to women across the globe. Founded in 1975 by Jacob Dombrowsky, Picadilly is proud of its Canadian roots – not least signified through a red maple leaf in the corner of the company’s corporate logo – and the ‘Made in Canada’ tag is an important aspect in the brand’s identity. “We produce over 95 per cent of our stock in Canada, in local factories
not far from our headquarters in Toronto,” says Neil Dombrowsky, son of the founder and president of Picadilly. “Apart from a small amount of specialist items, which we have to produce elsewhere, we are proud to be manufacturing domestically. It gives us great control over many aspects of the production process, especially our quality, but it also allows us to react to customer demands, repeat orders and evolving trends, and this is key in today’s marketplace,” he adds. Undoubtedly, this has contributed to the brand’s success, with Picadilly selling across 18 countries worldwide, and the number of new territories is rising each season. In fact, it’s fair to say that the brand is enjoying a bit of a fashion moment, having tripled its European business for the last three seasons, with the UK one of its strongest and key growth markets. Having worked with fashion
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agency Apt Collections for the past three seasons, Picadilly – which re-entered the UK market following an absence of several years – has been adding around 30 new accounts each season and currently has 105 doors on British shores, including the likes of Catwalk in Falkirk, Duet in Lampeter, Butterworth Jones in Rawtenstall, Shirtsleeves in Newark and Elliotts in Lymington. “There is huge potential in the UK for us. There is a great appetite for our kind of styling and brand proposition, and the fact that we are opening so many new accounts each season is testament to that,” says Dombrowsky, who pitches the brand at the 45+ age group at the core, though concedes that it’s an increasingly younger customer that is discovering the label and driving growth. “Our styling is in line with the type of fashion British women like. We take a lot of our inspiration from Europe, the prints and colours, and our fit is generous, too, which is a bonus. There are nine groups in each of our collections, so there is something to dress literally everybody,” he explains, adding, “Most importantly, we listen to our customers and agents and take on board what each of our markets needs.” This is confirmed by agent Nigel Hughes, owner of Apt Collections, who is seeing increased demand for the label, not least thanks to Picadilly’s successful debut at the last edition of women’s trade show Moda, which generated great interest in the brand. “Picadilly is a very reliable and established product. It’s very well made, with great fit, and has timeless styling and fabrics, and it tends to feature bold colour palettes that offer something different – some would say more exciting than mainstream European brands that have become a little predictable,” he says. “I also believe that Picadilly’s price architecture places it in a very commercial arena at a time when price pressure still has a bearing directly on sellthroughs,” he adds. Pauline Spiers, owner of Catwalk in Falkirk, has been stocking Picadilly for three seasons and attests to the popularity of the label on the shopfloor. “Picadilly has been great for us. I also stock other big Canadian labels, and whilst it’s on a par with the quality of the others, it’s that little bit different and has its own niche. The price points are really commercial, and I’ve found that it’s ageless. We get customers in their 30s buying it and older ladies in their 70s; it is just very wearable. We’ve already done really well with it for a/w 16, and have had to put in some repeat orders, especially one of the signature coats in black and white check,” she says. Picadilly’s commercial success is not a coincidence, however. Over the last few years Picadilly has hugely stepped up its marketing efforts, not only working closely with its stockists on promoting the brand in stores with targeted sales support, but it has also accelerated its visibility on international media platforms, be that through social media and advertising or through TV appearances and its first participation at Toronto Fashion Week in March this year. Showroom openings in New York and Dusseldorf are further proof that the brand is serious about its international expansion and market penetration. Furthermore, Picadilly has been collaborating with renowned Canadian designers David Dixon, Joeffer Caoc and Franciska Veress, who have been designing capsule collections for the brand, working alongside Picadilly’s in-house designer Xiu Luu, who has been instrumental in honing Picadilly’s signature style for the past 17 years. These partnerships have further elevated Picadilly’s position on the international fashion stage. “These design collaborations have been a huge hit for us. Every season we give
designers, some very well known, and some up and coming, the opportunity to work with us. It works well for both of us – it injects some fresh impetus into our ranges, while exposing the designers to our client base and markets. It’s not easy to be a commercially successful designer in today’s climate, and this is a very fruitful relationship that we are very proud of,” says Dombrowsky. Heading into a/w 17, Picadilly is set to make an ever greater impact on the UK market, boosted by a strong performance of the brand during s/s 16 and a/w 16 so far, and a collection which promises to build on its successful lifestyle signature. “As we [Apt Collections] are going into season four with the brand, it is developing very quickly with the right accounts, to the extent that we now have customers recommending other customers to us, which is high praise indeed,” says Hughes. “I am, however, very conscious whilst growing the brand, not to over market the label. For me it is very much about working organically with people who ‘get’ Picadilly and its potential in the market. Our in-season repeat business and stock support has really pleased me, with literally dozens of repeats weekly, with anything from a single item to dozens of pieces across the collection. From my experience, the general service levels of Picadilly are off the chart to satisfy customers’ requirements – and that’s invaluable in today’s retail climate,” he adds. Suffice to say that Picadilly’s considerable efforts to service its clientele are only matched by its ambitions, with Dombrowsky very clear about the ultimate goal for the brand: “We want the UK to be like Canada – where everybody knows us,” he says. It may not be too long before this becomes a reality.
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Visual impact The use of social media is part of most stores’ marketing strategy, but Instagram in particular is leading the way in popularity and effectiveness when it comes to promoting a brand or boutique. Isabella Griffiths quizzes five ‘insta-savvy’ retailers about best practice and why the most visual of all social media is such a hit.
starburst_dartmouth
pamelashifferprimrosehill
HANNAH JENNINGS
PAMELA SHIFFER
How long have you been using Instagram? I have been using it since June 2015.
How long have you been using Instagram? We started posting images on Instagram approximately 18 months ago.
OWNER STARBURST BOUTIQUE, DARTMOUTH
Does it form an essential part of your social media strategy? ... ❤ Add comment... Instagram is essential to my business and is the most important part of all the social media that currently takes place. Personally I love using it. 157 likes
How effective is Instagram in comparison to your other social media? As a business I have a Facebook page and a blog. I am not a fan of Facebook; I have never really felt it has benefited the business. Instagram is well suited to creative industries and the response I have had since using it has been fantastic. It’s fast, reactive and very addictive. Do you feel it drives traffic to your shop/website? Instagram has driven traffic to both the site and in-store. When I relaunched my website I asked for an Instagram feed to appear on the homepage of my site, which has had a really good response. I have also had customers make a special trip to view items that have been posted sometimes weeks before, which highlights the fact that customers are using it as a reference point even more so than the website. What other benefits do you see from using it? I think Instagram is brilliant for building a wider picture of the personality of the owner and the store. It is also great for promoting the locality of the business which works well for me, as I am in a holiday /weekend destination and my customers have a real affection for Devon. What is the emphasis of your posts? I generally post from the heart, so it could be an item from a new delivery, a close up of a fabric or print I love or even a new piece of furniture I have bought. Anything that makes me tick I tend to put on. What images do you use? I tend to use all my own images. For me it’s personal and my own take on the shop and my world. I think that’s the real point of difference from the website and the blog, where more brand and campaign images are used. What is your top tip for using Instagram for promoting your store? Follow people that inspire you, keep it light hearted and positive and only post what really matters to you and makes your heart sing.
OWNER PAMELA SHIFFER, LONDON
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Does it form an essential part of your social media strategy? Yes, in fact I would say Instagram is the driving force of our social media campaign. ❤
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How effective is Instagram in comparison to your other social media? I think it’s as important as Twitter and Facebook, however I personally enjoy using Instagram because it’s an instantaneous visual platform that’s easy to use and fun to be a part of. Do you feel it drives traffic to your shop/website? I’m not 100 per cent sure whether it’s our posting on Instagram or a mixture of other social media postings; however because Instagram is purely a visual platform the impact is instantaneous. What other benefits do you see from using it? Other benefits include instant updates, visual interest, a well-rounded overview of other posts from other brands, also reaching customers and businesses that would otherwise be difficult to attract. What is the emphasis of your posts? I think it’s important to show some personality through your postings, so I do post images that not only include our brands but also lifestyle images. It’s important to express who you are as a brand and that includes hobbies, interests, likes and dislikes. Apart from promoting our brands, I enjoy posting images of interesting and beautiful things around me, for instance if I see a beautiful flower display or interesting architecture; nature and animals are a favourite, too. Posting on social media should be fun as well as getting your point across. What images do you use? Mainly my own, however we have used brand images. Who handles your Instagram? Do you have rules on what/what not to post? I do the majority of postings, however some of the ideas are discussed with the team, but everything is checked by me before posting. What is your top tip for using Instagram for promoting your store? Be interested and interesting.
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gerrardsfashion
hengeloshop
NANCY HAMILTON
KATE PAYNE
OWNER GERRARDS BOUTIQUE, REIGATE
CO-OWNER HENGELO, HASLEMERE How long have you been using Instagram? We have been using Instagram for around two years.
How long have you been using Instagram? We’ve been using it since 2013. Does it form an essential part of your social media strategy? ... ❤ Add comment... Yes, I would say it’s becoming our most important focus, both for connecting with customers and for discovering new brands. 146 likes
How effective is Instagram in comparison to your other social media? Facebook still drives the most sales, but I have recently noticed more customers saying they are moving away from Facebook and towards Instagram as they like the more visual, streamlined feel. I do use Twitter, but mainly for community-based issues and things to do with the practical aspects of retail (i.e. parking in town, charity events). Pinterest is brilliant for helping customers style new trends and share ideas, but as we don’t have a transactional website, it is more of a mood board for me. Do you feel it drives traffic to your shop/website? Definitely. Some mornings most of the customers come in initially because of something I have posted on Instagram or Facebook. Often we will have sold out of an item within 24 hours of it being posted on Instagram. What other benefits do you see from using Instagram? It’s brilliant for interacting with customers, brands and other retailers and is also a good way to offer a glimpse of our lives in and out of the shop, rather than purely focusing on selling. We have also found a lot of new labels solely through Instagram. What is the emphasis of your posts? A real mixture. People come to our shop for a very personal experience, so I only post things I love. My main aim is to convey that it’s more than just a shop, we really love what we do. I try to keep to a vague scheme; for example flat lays and product shots are always on the whitewashed boards in the window to keep the page consistent and not too jumbled. I also love using Instastories. It’s a great way of showing people what is going on in the day-to-day life of the shop and you don’t have to worry about things looking too polished and perfect. What images do you use? I would say 99 per cent are our own images, but if a brand posts a beautiful photo I will repost, especially if it will build excitement for something that hasn’t yet arrived. Who handles your Instagram? Do you have rules on what/what not to post? Our womenswear account is solely my domain, I am very protective, aka controlling! If I’m out of the shop I get staff to take photos, but I always post as I want to keep the feed authentic. I think you can always tell when a shop or brand gets different people to post as it can feel disjointed. My only rule when it comes to posting is, if it makes me feel happy and excited and I think people will find it interesting, I post it. What is your top tip for using Instagram for promoting your store? Be authentic. Don’t overthink or try to be something you’re not. Don’t compare yourself to others with a higher following, just do your own thing and focus on building engagement by making sure you reply to comments and interact with customers.
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Does it form an essential part of your social media strategy? Yes absolutely, it is key and one of the most successful parts.
How effective is Instagram in comparison to your other social media? Instagram is a great way to give your brand more of a character and widen brand exposure. It is not just about the products we sell, it’s about who we are and what we represent. People often contact us on Instagram and ask questions about products which then leads to orders over the phone. We have a lot of fun using Instagram and making videos that give information and show the products off in a more interested way than a photo. Do you feel it drives traffic to your shop/website? Definitely. We often sell products that have been promoted on Instagram. It is a great way to have a dialogue with customers about things that have just arrived, events coming up and offers available online. What other benefits do you see from using it? Instagram is about building a story around your brand. We want to be able to reach out to our customers and share the journey with them. By showcasing products on Instagram we can effectively engage with our customers, see their reaction and develop this according to the results. What is the emphasis of your posts? The visual nature of Instagram makes it the perfect place to showcase products and for customers to be able to relate to them. This really helps if you have an online business and a bricks and mortar store as people can follow up by browsing or coming to the boutique to see the product. Often customers then share their own Instagram pictures of something they may have purchased following an Instagram post. We use our posts to relate to customers in a real way; this reflects the personality and character of the business and the people working within our team. Customers like to be able to see something that is on a personal level and is not a direct form of advertising, something they can identify with and subsequently want to be part of. We have started using Instastories and it is a fun way to show genuine true to life content. It has a Snapchat style of posting and is a good way for businesses to show off their creativity. What images do you use? We use a mixture of images, some of our own and others are from the brands that we sell. This is a great way to build awareness, not just with your customers but with the brands and their own following. Who handles your Instagram? Do you have rules on what/what not to post? There are two or three of us who post on Instagram and we ensure that we all post using the same tone and style. It is important that on all social media platforms the messages are consistent and that we attain the same overall voice for our brand. What is your top tip for using Instagram for promoting your store? Hashtags are key when using Instagram and it is important to ensure that your posts sit in the right categories so users can search for posts relating to that subject.
Philippa Bradley Agencies, 16 South Molton Street, London, W1K 5QS Tel: 020 7499 4598 Email: Nicky@pbras.co.uk www.pepperandmayne.com
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Fit for
success
The athleisure trend is going from strength to strength, with sales of sports goods set to reach £7bn this year, according to the latest figures from analyst Mintel. Half of those who have bought sports clothing, footwear, equipment or accessories in the past 12 months did so for non-sports use, putting the emphasis firmly on the fashion aspect, rather than just function. And with more and more brands and players entering this market, including the successful launch of Moda Athleisure in August, which showcased key names in the sector, the activewear trend is sure to stay around a little longer yet. WWB sums up some of the brands to watch.
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ACAI ACTIVEWEAR Acai Activewear caters its collection of performance tops, jackets, trousers and leggings to all fitness levels, from novice to expert. Using seam-free inner leg technology, a four-way hi-stretch fabric intended to mould to the body, and mesh panels for breathability, garments are designed to be both functional and flattering. The highlight of the collection is a technical bomber jacket featuring waterproof and breathable materials, taped seams, waterproof pocket zips and an iPod port. Combining a stylish denim fabric with eyelet shoulder details, the bomber offers functionality and weather protection at the same time as staying on trend.
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O’NEILL California lifestyle brand O’Neill is no stranger to the activewear market. Established in 1952, the label offers a host of different options designed to cater for a wide variety of sports from surf to snow. The athleisure focused range offers a high performance fleece, tank tops and the brand’s Surflegging. Designed to be worn while surfing, running and practising yoga, pieces in the range promote the label’s Hyperdry element, which allows the fabric to dry quickly while repelling water. Available in a range of hues including red, green and grey, select pieces feature a high shine finish and mesh panels.
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CONTROL BODY
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FRANSA
Designed and manufactured in Italy, Control Body has been specialising in the production of seamless shapewear since 1999. The product portfolio includes fitness, underwear, outwear, shaping, technical and sportswear clothing, all made with seamless technology. Each item is designed to provide support or lift in specific areas of the body, sculpt shape and add comfort. Products feature a high level of elasticity, making the garment adaptable to the body and allowing free movement. Features such as wide waistbands and shoulder straps and double supported bras provide extra support. Fabrics eliminate excess humidity and are designed to retain the same fit after washing.
Born in 1968, through the years Danish brand Fransa has established a contemporary, feminine and stylish aesthetic. The Fransa Leisure collection presents easy to mix and match styles under the genre of style meets comfort. A host of style options are presented in the range, reflecting the multi-purpose nature of this collection. Items including relaxed sweats, printed leggings, hooded jackets, slouchy cardigans and chunky knit scarves make up the main bulk of the range. A muted colour palette of blue, grey and black dominates the collection, with injections of rose providing a stark contrast.
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VARLEY Active and lifestyle brand Varley has its headquarters in London and Los Angeles, taking inspiration from both California’s coastal culture and the classic silhouettes and hues synonymous with London. Varley’s a/w 16 collection sees the introduction of new designs and features such as cut-out mesh panels. Performance fabrics fuse with different prints, ranging from marble to snakeskin. Meanwhile, casual hooded tops and sweatshirts favour subtle branding and zipper trims. New styles feature a refined colour palette including ash grey, white, copper red, rose and stone blue.
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BENCH The athleisure offering from Bench maintains the brand’s focus on style, transferring over many of the aesthetic features typically associated with the label. Statement prints such as geometric and florals are seen in clashing colours and are used on leggings and tank tops. Meanwhile, oversized hoodies and slouchy jackets make a fashion statement. The brand’s take on the trend sees it incorporate items including a denim dress, scarves and blouses into the athleisure offering, pairing these with the more fitness focused items such as beanies, leggings and logo T-shirts, for a fresh twist on the trend. uuu
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SALT Salt began as the in-house brand of The Sports Edit in Chelsea, London, and is now stocked at select retailers across the UK. Inspiration comes from many sources, including the colours and textures found in the natural world and the way people move. The Dynamic Focus print, for example, was inspired by the lines of the human body. Different shades of blue come together with white on a high stretch fabric, designed to support muscles during activities that range from running to yoga. The Limitless range (pictured) offers seamless training tops, featuring breathable panels and thumb holes.
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MARC CAIN German womenswear label Marc Cain taps into the activewear market with the launch of its Fitwear Capsule Collection for s/s 17. The range includes functional sports pieces that can be worn as mix and match options. Items include shorts, leggings, bustiers, jackets and waistcoats. Bold colours, a combination of leopard and camouflage print and petal patterns dominate across the collection. Silhouettes are kept slim, fitted to the body and ergonomic. Meanwhile, bold statement prints and flattering shapes create a sporty meets glamorous fusion.
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MAGIC YOGA
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FREYA ACTIVE With an emphasis on providing breast coverage and support, Freya Active offers high performance designs through items such as the bestselling underwired crop top sports bra. Styles in this range are made to encapsulate breasts rather than compress, eliminating movement and reducing breast strain. Foam cups provide shape, while microfibres and mesh panels promote breathability. In addition, Freya Active also offers an underwired Performance Top, a soft cup sports bra, soft crop tops, leggings and shorts. Spring/summer 17 sees the introduction of a Cherry Glow hue, which is featured in products across the range.
Originally known for its range of shapewear products, Magic has transferred its knowledge of performance materials and fit over to a yoga focused range. Magic Yoga offers leggings, bras, accessories and tops that promise a high level of support and comfort. Presenting a varied range of style options including full length and cropped leggings, T-shirts and tank tops, the brand also offers sports accessories such as towels, jumping ropes and exercise bands. Bestsellers include the brand’s seamless Yoga Tee, available in a grey stretchy fabric and a seamless racerback Yoga Top in pink.
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ELLESPORT Ellesport offers two main collections within its leisure range, the Mantaris collection and the Fortitude collection. Soft draping and fabrics are used in feminine, flattering styles to create leggings, tops, T-shirts and trousers. The range takes on a sports heritage feel, as seen in items like the Studio Hi-Neck Slouch Tee – a boxy fit T-shirt available in neon orange and grey. Sports bras, too, feature retro influences, with some styles having a high neckline and racerback design, in colours such as dusky pink. Items also maintain functional elements such as mesh panels, pockets and moisture reducing fabrics.
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CUDDL DUDS Cuddl Duds offers soft and comfortable layering options without the bulk. Using modern styling and soft fabrics, the brand’s range of transitional tops, leggings and accessories are made to look and feel good as well as incorporate a number of technical properties. Typically, garments include moisturewicking fabric, mesh panels, contour seaming and a number of shape options such as a long sleeve crew, leggings and a half zip hoodie. The brand’s Comfortwear line features contoured thumbholes and added spandex for a better fit. For the colder months, the season sees the addition of body warmers, hats and socks in thicker fabrics.
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PEPPER & MAYNE Activewear and loungewear brand Pepper & Mayne fuses high-tech performance fabrics with fashion. Designed in London and Paris, the brand is inspired by the aesthetic of the ballet studio, collaborating with The Royal Ballet on a limited edition cashmere collection. The brand’s Bodywear collection has been created using seamless technology to create a compression fit. Ideal for hot yoga, ballet, Pilates and impact sports due to the quick drying fabric, pieces also boast built-in support and clean lines. Meanwhile the Après Sport line is a versatile offering of pre and post workout garments in cashmere, cotton and silk fabrics.
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LEG CODE Established in 2015, Lithuanian brand Leg Code offers a wide range of products in the activewear market including leggings and tops. With a firm focus on playful, artistic prints, the brand creates a statement through clashing colour combinations and patterns including Touch of Africa (pictured), Skulls and Roses and Abstract Dots. The unique designs and quirky prints reflect a youthful focus for this stylish collection. Fabrics have been chosen specifically to avoid fading and to maintain elasticity, in order to keep the vibrant and wearable feel.
Autumn / Winter 2016 Collection In-Season Brand
Fashion House TCA Showroom 137 Essex Rd, London N1 2SN Tel: 020 3432 6385 Email: kinsie@tcashowroom.com
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Stepping away from the herd Combining a wealth of knowledge and history with the latest technology, the owners of textile mill Spectrum Yarns are proud to control every aspect of knitwear production, bar shearing the sheep. But the recent launch of knitwear brand Slaith sees the mill enter new territory. Rebecca Jackson finds out more.
The owner and founder of textile mill Spectrum Yarns, Richard Brown has been in the spinning trade since 1980, and manufacturing knitwear for more than 10 years. After the success of the knitwear brand Glenbrae, which was established in 2004, it was time to take a new direction with the launch of the premium knitwear offer Slaith. Named affectionately after its home town Slaithwaite, a village on the outskirts of Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, Slaith launched earlier this year at the a/w 16 edition of Jacket Required. While Glenbrae is aimed primarily at the golf consumer, this unveiling saw the mill take a new tack in terms of market level. “We originally launched Glenbrae, which everyone considers to be the best in the market,” says Brown. “But once you’ve launched a brand, you’ve established it a certain way. We achieved our intention of making the best classic knitwear in the world. Slaith was born out of a desire to create a brand aimed at a different market.” The idea came about after Brown was commissioned to make a yarn that would be used as a seat cover in public places of high usage, specifically airports. With strict criteria to meet, the mill owner had to ensure the fabric looked good after prolonged and heavy use. After working on the project, Brown wondered if a similar brief could be applied when developing knitwear. Unable to match the product with the Glenbrae brand, a new label was born. Slaith presented a host of possibilities for Brown and his team of approximately 170 employees at Spectrum Yarns. However, developing the brand in just under a year, without the aid of any additional staff, was a challenge for everyone involved.
“We have a dedicated team, and they reacted to the changes very well,” he says. “We achieved a lot in a short space of time and the mill was turned upside down in the process. A good operative is integral – they’re the eyes and ears of a proper mill. The ethos comes from the top but it has to percolate down. You’ve got to involve them in more than the basic job. You have to work closely with your staff so that they understand how they fit into the overall picture.” The considered production process is just one of Slaith’s unique features. Spectrum Yarns owns and manages every part of the production process – apart from the sheep, of course. This enables Richard and his daughter Danielle Brown to maintain a rigorous quality control procedure. After the yarn has been manufactured in Slaithwaite, knitting takes place in a separate facility in Belper, Derbyshire, before the garments return to the Slaithwaite mill for hand-finishing. By housing the production solely in these two facilities, CO2 levels are kept down and the mill is able to operate at a cost-effective level. Pieces in the collection boast a finer 30 gauge knit, compared to 15 and 24 gauges used previously. All garments in the range are completely seamless, excluding any unwanted bumps or gathering in the fabric. Starting with a menswear range initially, the project developed from just four colours to a launch with 22 menswear and 27 ladies’ styles. Slaithwaite itself is steeped in over 200 years of textiles history, while Huddersfield cloth is still revered worldwide. Today, the ‘Made in Huddersfield’ label found on the selvedge is highly sought after. “I am a spinner, so I know how it works,”
Brown explains. “The yarn has to be able to perform to a certain level. It comes down to the raw materials. If you’ve got good quality yarn, the best you can buy within your budget, you have the basis to make everything fall into place.” Consisting of merino and cashmere yarns, staple styles in the collection include V-neck for men and crew neck for women. Typically slotting into the classic-contemporary knitwear category, the brand targets the high-end consumer. “It’s not the most fashion conscious person in the room; it’s the person who’s the best dressed in the room. They’re not making a fashion statement, they just know with a quiet confidence that they’re the best-dressed person,” says Danielle Brown. Wholesale prices start at £50 for merino and £140 for cashmere. Currently, the brand has 40 wholesale accounts in total, 30 of those based in the UK. With agents in Germany, Switzerland, UK, Russia and Japan, next year the brand will set its sights on the USA. “I predict that Japan will be our biggest export market because they really recognise quality and craft,” Danielle Brown says. “Our sales reps have just had feedback from retailers and some of them are shocked that the delivery was on time and complete. It seems so simple to us. We deliver as promised and the product works as it should.” With a target of 120-150 UK wholesale accounts, the short-term plan is, understandably, to grow business in the UK and overseas. Eventually, the Browns have plans to develop a full clothing range for Slaith, including shirts, belts and suits. It’s a long-term plan, but Richard is getting a head start by developing a low-crease, lightweight fabric. After all, perfection is worth the wait.
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MATT & NAT
SANDQVIST
TEMPLE LONDON
Elements of the natural environment inspire Matt & Nat’s collection colours, designs and manufacturing process. Vegan leathers are used in production, as well as sustainable materials like nylon, cork and rubber. Furthermore, the brand has recycled over two million plastic bottles in the manufacturing of its bags.
Stockholm-based bag brand Sandqvist maintains a focus on Scandinavian simplicity and functionality throughout its range of styles. Pieces in the latest collection work with the brand’s iconic styles, including the signature Stig cotton canvas backpack. Inspired by nature and the outdoors, the line takes design elements from cracked rock, stone walls, water and oil.
Contemporary lifestyle brand Temple London is designed with function and durability in mind, though gender neutral, fashion-forward pieces tap into the fashionable Scandinavian trend. The latest season introduces backpacks that mould to the wearer’s body, versatile shopper style totes and luxe sport duffles, all constructed from a combination of premium Italian leathers and traditional and performance textiles.
MI-PAC
FJALLRAVEN
FORBES AND LEWIS
Mi-Pac continues to champion its ethos of value for money, quality products in fashion forward designs. For a/w 16, the brand presents its Art Deco and Cracked Black collections. Metallics also feature heavily amongst its Gold range, highlighted by the new rose gold finish (pictured), available across many styles.
Fjallraven’s product range comprises outdoor clothing, accessories and backpacks. Prioritising responsibility towards people, animals and nature, the brand’s range of backpacks fuses style and practicality. Styles adopt classic Scandinavian simplicity, though items boast many hidden features. The brand’s Travel Pack includes extra zipped compartments, a fleece lined phone pocket and a toiletry bag section.
Known for its keen focus on promoting craftsmanship, as seen throughout its range of leather and canvas goods, Forbes and Lewis initially launched in 2013. Identifying a gap in the market for durable, well-designed bags that withstand the test of time, husband and wife duo Samuel Lewis Windridge and Katie Forbes have continued to focus on androgynous design.
Trend focus: Backpacks This season, backpacks are both functional and fashionable, and come in a variety of leather, canvas and cotton options.
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HAPPY PLUGS
RINGLY
JEKYLL & HIDE
Known for its minimalistic Scandinavian design, fashion tech brand Happy Plugs is launching a range of Deluxe Marble laptop skins this a/w 16. With the aim of adding a layer of sophistication and modern elegance to Macbooks, the skins come in three colours: white, green and black. 3M Controltac technology allows for easy application, maximum hold and residue-free removal.
Ringly taps into the ‘smart’ market with its range of Bluetooth enabled notification jewellery and accessories. With a firm fashion focus, pieces in the range present a sleek, feminine appearance that notifies the wearer of incoming texts, emails and calls via coloured LEDs and vibrating patterns.
Based in both Cape Town and London, Jekyll & Hide presents a large collection of technology themed purses, laptop cases (pictured) and bags. With RFID technology included in select wallets and bags, contactless card identities are kept safe and protected from electronic card cloning fraud.
MIGHTY PURSE
HERSCHEL SUPPLY
NETATMO
Serving as a fusion between fashion and technology, Mighty Purse bags, backpacks and wristlets contain a lightweight battery that can fully recharge smartphones. It’s compatible with all micro-USB models including Samsung TM, HTC, BlackBerry and LG. It’s also compatible with Apple’s iPhone 5, iPhone 6 and iPads using a Mighty Purse Apple Licensed Adapter.
Founded in 2009 by brothers Jamie and Lyndon Cormack, Herschel Supply adopted the name of the town where three generations of their family grew up. Based in Vancouver, Canada, Herschel Supply offers a vast accessories range with strong attention to detail, with these tech sleeves among the brand’s bestselling items.
June by Netatmo measures sun exposure in order to provide its wearer with a real-time UV index. The device, worn as a bracelet, sends personalised notifications to an app, advising its wearer on SPF protection and how to prevent skin aging. June’s metal centrepiece can be styled on a double leather strap, or on a silicon band for athletic activities.
Trend focus: Fashion gadgets Multi-functional fashion moves to a whole new level with the advent of wearable technology. From laptop covers to smart rings, there’s a host of options to fuse innovation with style.
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AGONIST
COCOLUX AUSTRALIA
MAISON LOUIS MARIE
Agonist is a Swedish fragrance brand launched in 2008. Initially featuring one product, the range now presents seven unisex fragrances, each one characterised by a combination of natural fragrances presented in handcrafted Swedish glass. With a commitment to the environment, every fragrance and its packaging is made with a sustainable approach to the use of raw materials.
Taking inspiration from the Australian coastline, Cocolux Australia’s candles are made from natural coconut wax, hand poured into reusable copper containers. The Tropic Collection consists of two fragrances: Palm Leaf & Bamboo and Coconut, Ginger & Pomelo. Meanwhile the Onyx collection draws on Moroccan and Persian influences, with popular scents including Amber and Violet Tabac.
Maison Louis Marie’s bestselling No 04 Bois de Balincourt scent is inspired by brand founder and creative director Marie Du Petit-Thouars’ family home outside of Paris. With notes of sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver, nutmeg and cinnamon, the fragrance was inspired by long walks through the forests surrounding the country home.
A LAB ON FIRE
AVERY
A Lab on Fire is a limited production fragrance, featuring contemporary scents. Launched in 2011 by Carlos Kusubayashi, the brand takes on an industrial design feel, rather than an artistic one. Traditional laboratory techniques are employed, with essential and minimalist designs taking centre stage. The emphasis is on the scent rather than the personality behind the brand.
Devised by Celso Fadelli, Avery’s collection of five perfumes has been developed starting from the letters that make up the word Avery. Aimed at the niche market, fragrances have been chosen through tests carried out at the Avery Perfume Gallery shop, Avery Row, London. Packaging reflects a minimal aesthetic, with copper lettering contrasted against black glass.
ARCHIPELAGO Made from a premium wax blend containing more than 70 per cent natural soy wax, Archipelago’s bestsellers include the Boticario de Havana candle. The limited edition Find a Cure Breast Cancer Awareness candle features an essential oil fragrance blend of pink grapefruit, cassis and bergamot. 50 per cent of the proceeds are donated to the Breast Cancer Angels.
Trend focus: Fragrance & Candles While influences come from different cultures and countries ranging from Morocco to Australia, sustainable production methods are a must in this range of candles and perfumes.
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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
OLIVIA BURTON
ABBOTT LYON
Salvatore Ferragamo presents its latest timepiece, the Cuore Ferragamo. The watch offers a dial decorated with a gold IP, steel or red enamel heart which ‘beats’ once a second as its two halves separate and then reunite. The style is available with a bi-colour bracelet or a crocodile print calfskin strap in yellow, black, red, purple, pink and grey.
Olivia Burton launched in 2012 with its offering of vintage inspired designs fused with contemporary features. The minimalistic White Dial collection offers a breadth of choice for unisex styling. Meanwhile, the After Dark styles feature a leather strap and rose gold dial details, creating a bold statement that offers a subtle nod to the military styling seen on the a/w 16 runways.
Launched in 2014, Abbott Lyon boasts a collection of over 100 styles from its Kensington and Nato collections to the Ladies Luxe and Rose Gold offers. For the latest collection, the brand presents its Stellar line, a limited edition unisex offering which includes 11 styles and colourways. Colours are easy to wear and include nude, black, tan, gold and silver options.
NEWGATE WATCHES
FARER
SHORE PROJECTS
The unisex Blip collection is the latest design in Newgate Watches’ artillery. Caramel coloured suede, canvas, leather and mesh steel straps are paired with vintage look stainless steel and brass cases and refined marker dials. Founded by husband and wife team Jim and Chloe Read, the British brand acts as a statement style piece.
Farer’s latest launch, The Meakin, joins eight original Farer timepieces designed to stand out from the ordinary. As with each Farer timepiece, Meakin is designed in London and handmade in Switzerland. Featuring a white dial, silver numerals and gold skeleton hands, this model is driven by a Swiss made Ronda 6004.D movement.
Inspired by the beauty of the British seaside, Shore Projects combines vintage design with durable modern-day quality and materials. Watches in the range are made with stainless steel cases and crystal sapphire glass. The leather on the straps is sourced from Italy and all are waterproof to 100 metres.
Trend focus: Watches This season, watches take on a cleaner, more delicate and minimalist direction, mixing contemporary design with classic vintage influences and cute pops of colour.
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Short circuit
This season, the a/w 16 collections present an abundance of warm autumn colours, chunky knits and silhouettes for every occasion. Rebecca Jackson selects the key brands available for in-store delivery now. u
BRIGHT & BEAUTIFUL BY COLLECTIF Influenced by the fashions of the 60s and 70s, Collectif ’s Bright and Beautiful brand is a contemporary clothing label with a vintage aesthetic. Presenting its third full collection, standout features include bold florals and feminine silhouettes. A rustic colour palette reflects the boho inspiration and works well with cord and suede fabrics. This season, the brand presents two sides: Boho Fox, which takes on a laid-back look inspired by rustic woodland; meanwhile, 70s Glam draws upon the disco era to offer a selection of glitzy eveningwear. Wholesale price range: £15-£65 Turnaround time: Immediate Contact: 020 7511 6224 www.collectif.co.uk
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JOULES The a/w 16 collection from Joules presents two themes. The Charlotte Floral collection takes inspiration from autumn country walks, while Winter Hedgerow is designed for the colder months. Florals are presented in a rich, dark colour palette. Boxy shapes are seen in standout items like the Contessa tweed cape, while textural jackets, faux fur trims and collars provide the hallmark Joules heritage feel. Denim is key this season, with the Munroe skinny jean returning with the addition of two jewelled colours. Wholesale price range: Average £30 Turnaround time: Immediate Contact: 020 7845 7800 www.joules.com
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GRACE AND MILA For a/w 16, Grace and Mila presents a darker, autumnal colour palette throughout. Pieces are streamlined with simple details, creating a minimal aesthetic overall. Floaty chiffon fabrics fuse with darker colours to create a twist on a gypsy theme. Meanwhile, some of the pieces take on a rock star theme, as seen through the use of glitzy fabrics. Wholesale price range: From £7 Turnaround time: One week Contact: 020 3432 6385 www.graceandmila.com
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BELLFIELD Bellfield continues in a feminine direction this season, presenting Elemental as its central theme. The latest range is contemporary with a focus on building outfits through layering. Everyday pieces like the brand’s viscose blend tops and knitwear polo necks and cardigans provide a good basis for the winter basics. Meanwhile, standout items like the reversible shearling coat, printed dresses and a scuba co-ord set provide the latest range with a touch of glamour. Wholesale price range: £3-£25 Turnaround time: Two to five days Contact: 0844 477 4856 www.bellfieldclothing.com
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ALICE HANNAH Taking cues from catwalks, streetwear and traditional cultures, the latest collection from Alice Hannah is characterised by bold design and vivid colours. Key features include faux fur, oversized pompoms, ponchos, capes and shawls featuring stitch patterns. A display of embellishments, lace and gems is seen over the three themes: Urban Alice, Icelandic Alice and Artisan Alice. Wholesale price range: From £6 Turnaround time: Two to five days Contact: 020 8943 9383 www.alicehannah.co.uk
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GESTUZ Gestuz’s a/w 16 collection focuses on creating texture through layering. Bold autumnal prints combine with hyper-feminine frilly statement pieces, while rusty shades of orange and green are paired with a black-blue hue. Geometric patterns and dreamy florals are matched with soft suede. Pussy bow blouses and delicate lace sits alongside slouchy standout knitted pieces and clean 60s shapes, fusing contemporary with vintage. Wholesale price range: From £33 Turnaround time: Immediate Contact: 020 3302 8867 www.innocenza.co.uk
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EMILY AND FIN The Emily and Fin a/w 16 offering draws on the Art Deco era. Bold colours dominate the collection, which includes dresses, blouses, tops, skirts, trousers, jackets and knitwear. The brand’s trademark feminine shape is still present, further exaggerated to create a dramatic silhouette. Masculine tailoring is seen through the brand’s matching Keira jacket and trouser set, with feminine patterns, as seen on the Lara shirt, used to create a stark contrast. Wholesale price range: £14-32 Turnaround time: Two to five days Contact: 020 7812 9992 www.emilyandfin.co.uk
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NEON ROSE Neon Rose’s a/w 16 line is focused around the idea of presenting a refined yet highly wearable collection. Pieces are inspired by Japanese mineral elements and sport-luxe detailing. With its own take on lounge dressing, the brand fuses contemporary cuts and statement prints in laid-back style. Key pieces include faux fur trimmed parkas, pyjama styled co-ords and luxe quilted jackets.
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LILY & ME
Wholesale price range: £10-£40 Turnaround time: Three to five days Contact: 0161 835 2064 www.neonrose.co.uk
British lifestyle label Lily & Me combines textile design with standout details across dresses, tunics, tops, knits and skirts. With a strong focus on unique prints, the label designs its collections in-house. The a/w 16 line is inspired by antique markets, rustic country barns, vintage finds and wild British landscapes. This season sees a rich colour palette blend with hand-drawn prints, while broad strokes of colour combine with soft shapes. Wholesale price range: Average £17 Turnaround time: Immediate Contact: 01566 779477 www.lilyandmeclothing.com
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FEVER LONDON
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BOOM BAP WEAR Boom Bap Wear’s a/w 16 styles focus on urban design, inspired by the central theme Make Moves. Key features include boxy silhouettes, small prints and irregular cuts, as seen on its offering of hoodies and sweats. For the new season, the brand also offers longer length hoodies and a large selection of long lined asymmetric shirts that feature contrasting details, dresses in black and grey hues and casual loungewear. Wholesale price range: £10-£50 Turnaround time: One week Contact: 020 7720 7425 www.boombapwear.com
For a/w 16, Fever London combines vintage prints and feminine silhouettes, resulting in a contemporary twist on the popular retro trend. The latest collection falls into three categories. The Heritage line, a daywear and casualwear offering inspired by the New York art scene and youth nostalgia; the City collection (pictured), which consists of workwear pieces echoing the industrial mood of East London during the 20s and 40s; and Occasion, an evening and occasionwear category which promises an injection of festive fashion in the latter part of the year. Wholesale price range: From £11 Turnaround time: Next day Contact: 020 7702 0203 www.feverdesigns.co.uk
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The personal touch Cambridge boutique Boudoir Femme is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year – no mean feat in the fickle world of fashion retail. Owner Pippa Sandison tells Isabella Griffiths why forging her own path and remaining focused on the essence of the store has been key to the success.
When Pippa Sandison left her job in marketing for a medical company over a decade ago and opened a vintage shop in a local antiques centre in Cambridge, specialising in 1920s dresses and accessories, she couldn’t have predicted that this would be the beginning of what was to become one of the city’s most successful independent boutiques. But indeed, it paved the way to what is now Boudoir Femme, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. “I’ve always had a love of fashion, and I had been toying with the idea of opening my own boutique for a while. I finally bit the bullet, and even though it was a bit daunting at first, it also was a great introduction into the business. It also enabled me to build up a customer base and following, and ultimately gave me more kudos when I opened Boudoir Femme in 2006,” recalls Sandison. The store officially opened on King Street in central Cambridge, in a small 200 sq ft outlet, and was an instant success, with its niche selection of predominantly British and Danish brands resonating with the city’s fashionable women. In 2012 Sandison moved just a few doors down, still on the same street, but more than doubling the store space to 534 sq ft – cementing the boutique’s position as a leading fashion destination. “We had simply outgrown our original premises and needed more space, for a bigger and better selection of labels, and to have a more physical profile on the street,” she explains. Number 2 King Street has been the home of Boudoir Femme
ever since, now housing more than 40 brands, including the likes of American Vintage, MIH Jeans, Maison Scotch, Dea Kudibal, Hultquist, Pernille Corydon, Parka London and Gestutz, many of which have been stocked by Sandison since the beginning. “I’ve always gone with smaller labels that are not so overly available everywhere else, and this seems to be working for us. Our style direction overall is probably more a casual product mix, for a relaxed lifestyle,” says Sandison. “Our customers are predominantly in the 35 to 65 age bracket, professional women in Cambridge such as university lecturers, as well as young mums, and this is the look that is selling well. I make sure that our brand mix offers diversity, and our price points start at £25 and go up to £200 on average, so there’s something for everyone,” she adds. Not surprisingly given her professional background, marketing has always played a huge part in Sandison’s business strategy, and she attributes a lot of the success of the store to the clever promotions and events she has hosted over the years. “Before I even had any physical store presence, I started gathering customer details for a mailing list, I always knew that this would be the key to any successful PR and marketing. Of course marketing itself has changed massively over the years with the rise of social media. Ultimately, when you run a small business, marketing is key. I still get excited about marketing, but anyone who is savvy about marketing can achieve a lot,” she says. In this vein, Boudoir Femme has a strong presence on
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Instagram, Twitter and Facebook, and regularly hosts and gets involved in local and regional charity and pop-up events, often in collaboration with other businesses in the city. “Invite-only events are really fantastic and work brilliantly for us. It’s all about engaging and retaining customers and making them feel special. We often host shopping events where our customers earn double loyalty points, and these kinds of initiatives are still our best-selling days.” While Boudoir Femme has had a transactional website since 2008 – it was relaunched with a fresh look and new features last year and is a growing sideline of the business – Sandison concedes that the store’s customers are more “physical store customers”, who enjoy the personal contact with Sandison and her staff, as well as the bricks and mortar shopping experience. “I think despite the rise of e-commerce and people living and shopping and doing everything digitally, it’s still important to have a physical presence, and I don’t think this can be replaced online. It’s still important for personal relationships, one-on-one customer care and just a high level of service, and you can only get that in a bricks and mortar store,” says Sandison, who despite having four members of staff, spends five days a week on the shop floor to maintain that personal touch that Boudoir Femme is known for. It’s this mantra that also informs any future development plans, with Sandison being clear that she is happy with a one-store presence and is not looking to add any more branches to her portfolio. “There are two ways you can take an independent
boutique forward: one is to add store after store and turn it into a mini-chain, or the other is to focus on being an owner-led boutique and strengthen that presence, and this is definitely where I feel Boudoir Femme is,” she explains. “I want to build on what we have now, and make the current store the best it can be, but I’m not looking to scale up into any more branches. I’m happy with our existing product and brand mix and our current labels are all performing well, so other than introducing the odd new label every season, we will carry on doing what we’re doing and focus on our customers and the excellent standard of service that we provide.” Having traded through the last decade and indeed a very difficult economic environment at times, what does Sandison consider the biggest challenge for indies? “I think technology and social media are really changing the retail landscape, the way we shop, how fast things are going and the way customers access information on the labels they are interested in. And also the sheer amount of brands out there. There is so much choice available – for consumers and retailers alike. For us, going forward, I think I will stick with niche labels and our bestselling brands that you can’t get online. This has always been our strategy and has stood us in good stead,” she replies. Asked about the biggest retail lesson she has learned herself over the years, Sandison says: “Just forge your own path and don’t lose focus on what it was that you set out to achieve in the first place. Don’t be like everyone else.” Wise words indeed.
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Fashion SVP Leading manufacturing show Fashion SVP is taking place from 15 to 16 November at London’s Olympia, bringing together some of the best garment producers from near-shore territories. WWB takes a look at what’s on offer this season.
More than 120 of Europe’s leading garment manufacturers will be exhibiting at this season’s Fashion SVP, which is debuting a second seasonal show this year at November’s inaugural event. Catering for both high volume players as well as bespoke and individual orders from independent retailers operating or seeking to launch their own fashion label, the show is key in bringing suppliers and retailers together under one roof and single focused showcase. For its upcoming edition the show has announced a collaboration with government export association Enterprise Mauritius, which is bringing a group of producers from the island state to the show for the first time. The group comprises 12 high quality manufacturers of woven and jersey products, and joins the show along with manufacturers from 15 other countries, including the UK, the Baltics, Portugal, Romania, Turkey, Tunisia, Morocco, Poland, Cyprus and Bulgaria. “We’ve been talking with Enterprise Mauritius for a number of seasons, and they have watched with keen interest the impressive growth and influence of Fashion SVP,” says event director Buzz Carter. “We’re delighted they are now joining the show, which continues its rapid expansion in new markets and new territories.” The show covers a diversity of product categories including knitwear, jersey wear and wovens, from general fashion wear to high end designer fashions; outerwear, formal wear, sports and active wear as well as casual wear and hosiery across womenswear, menswear and childrenswear. The event will also continue its popular Sourcing Briefing seminar series, which will feature Brexit debates and sessions on key issues affecting sourcing professionals. Contributors include Nigel Musto, founder of Musto; Michael Conway, chairman of Quayside; Elissa Lloyd, head of sourcing at White Stuff; and Michael Wolff, CEO of FOL and founder of Fielding Group.
LOCATION: OLYMPIA WEST HALL (LEVEL 1) EXHIBITION CENTRE, LONDON W14 8UX OPENING TIMES: T UESDAY 15 NOVEMBER 09:30-18:00 WEDNESDAY 16 NOVEMBER 09:30-17:00 FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT: WWW.FASHIONSVP.COM
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HKTDC Hong Kong Fashion Week
Auralo Arte
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The 23rd edition of Hong Kong Fashion Week, which took place between 4-7 July 2016, welcomed over 13,000 buyers from 68 countries and regions. Victoria Jackson visited the fair to discover more about the young, emerging talent to come out of Hong Kong and the importance the show placed on sustainability and technology within the fashion industry. Featuring more than 1,200 exhibitors from 18 countries and regions, HKTDC Hong Kong Fashion Week continued to showcase both innovative fashion and the latest developments within the fashion industry during its 23rd edition earlier this year. Taking place between 4-7 July, the four-day fair – organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) – welcomed more than 13,000 buyers from 68 countries with a comprehensive roster of brands spanning womenswear, menswear, footwear, accessories, fabrics and more. Under the theme ‘Garden Breeze’, the exhibition featured over 20 events including fashion shows, trend forecasting seminars, forums and networking events. Together they provided a full spectrum of business insights and spotlights on key designer collections. To create business opportunities for exhibitors, a total of 91 overseas buying missions were organised to bring over 5,100 buyers from 45 countries. These includes representatives from fashion labels, chain stores and key distributors, including Forward (Russia), Jaspal (Thailand), Tricycle (South Korea) World Co (Japan) and H&M (Chinese mainland). This season’s fair also welcomed the likes of Bangladesh, Italy, the Netherlands and the Philippines, all making their show debuts, as well as a number of new zones, including Fashion Tech, Footwear, Leggings and
Socks, and Knitwear. Elsewhere, the Emporium de Mode area was designed to promote leading fashion brands, while International Fashion Designers’ Showcase displayed designer collections from around the globe. Emerging talent was at the heart of Hong Kong Fashion Week, with a series of catwalk shows taking place by debut designers and students, introducing international buyers to niche labels. Buyers, for example, received an invitation to the graduation parade of the Chinese University of Hong Kong’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies, as well as the Hong Kong Polytechnic University lingerie show – both of which provided innovative design inspiration for the season ahead. Meanwhile, the students of the Technological and Higher Education Institute of Hong Kong held their graduation show, alongside the Macau Productivity and Technology Transfer Centre fashion show. A popular addition to the show, the inaugural Fashion Tech zone was launched to showcase the industry’s latest digital printing technology and award-winning eco-friendly textile technology. Alongside Epson Hong Kong Limited showcasing a series of cutting-edge printers, a seminar on ‘Fashion Sustainability – From Product Development to Manufacturing’, took place to offer insights into the latest sustainability measurement tools for the fashion industry and technological innovations.
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Jo Disaya
ABOUT THE HKTDC: The Hong Kong Trade Development Council is the international marketing arm for Hong Kong based traders, manufacturers and services providers. With more than 40 offices globally, including 13 on the Chinese mainland, the HKTDC promotes Hong Kong as a platform for doing business with China and throughout Asia, as well as organising international exhibitions, conferences and business missions to provide companies, particularly SMEs, with business opportunities on the mainland and in overseas markets.
“Besides raising production efficiency, technology also enables the sustainable development of the industry,” says HKTDC deputy executive director, Benjamin Chau. “In recent years, there has been high awareness of sustainable development within the industry. From design and sourcing to prototyping and production, the industry has been dedicated to reducing energy consumption and carbon emission. “Responding to this development, this year’s fair focused on exploring relevant technologies and assessment tools to help raise the industry’s efficiency. We believe that the industry is increasingly aware of the importance of sustainable fashion, because it can help it achieve healthy growth,” he adds. During the seminar, Kit Li, project manager of the Clothing Industry Training Authority (CITA), noted that pollution is worsening in many parts of the world and air pollution in the Chinese mainland is especially worrying. In particular, large amounts of water and energy are consumed and water sources are contaminated during the garment production process. “To tackle water shortage in the Chinese mainland, the government has launched policies that require reduction in water consumption by the garment industry,” says Li. “The problem is that the industry has no relevant expertise.”
CITA has joined forces with the industry by applying for government funding to develop Activity-based Carbon Footprint Modelling (ACFM) – designed to assess accurately the carbon and water footprints of each step of the production process. During the panel discussion, Li revealed more than 30 local companies have adopted ACFM since its introduction in 2015, and that the system has also been promoted in Australia. Besides exploring eco-friendly technologies, the four-day fair created business opportunities for the fashion industry, with keen interest from both Japanese and Korean buyers. Japanese buyer Satoshi Miyata – a first-time visitor in search of menswear suppliers – was happy to have met a potential supplier from Hong Kong and plans to visit new production facilities in the Chinese mainland and Cambodia next year. Meanwhile, Korean online fashion retailer Tricycle also identified two to three potential Hong Kong suppliers at the fair. “I’m looking to source a large selection of products in small amounts in order to test market demand, and the good thing is with Hong Kong Fashion Week is that new suppliers seem to be flexible with order quantities,” concludes Ju-Mi Hong, team manager. For further information on HKTDC Hong Kong Fashion Week visit www.hktdc.com
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The pick of s/s 17 WWB’s Isabella Griffiths selects some of her favourite labels and pieces of the season.
RIA MENORCA @ MODA One of the biggest footwear trends to emerge this season was Menorcan sandals. The colourful sandals are fun and easy to wear, and Ria Menorca’s versions were no exception. From understated neutrals to funky brights, the collection offered colour choices galore – and we wanted them all.
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ROSE RANKIN @ SCOOP Rose Rankin’s original sneaker designs are causing a lot of excitement among fashionistas and stylish women everywhere, thanks to their eye-catching design and mix of materials. This season’s metallics were a particular hit.
PARKA LONDON @ SCOOP British outerwear brand Parka London proved that coats and jackets are not just for autumn/ winter. Lightweight parkas – as the name suggests – once again made up the collection, with a fresh colour scheme of greens and khakis which would look brilliant set against the corals and pinks of the season.
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Vintage inspired brand Lindy Bop once again impressed with its beautiful, retro inspired dresses with a contemporary twist. The classic silhouettes and petticoat styles were flattering and feminine – what’s not to like?
Ethical jewellery label Mirabelle offered a vast collection of statement jewellery, with oversized necklaces with eye-catching pendants key. Each collection is imbued with symbolism, using a variety of materials, including crystals.
Levi’s premium Made & Crafted line embraced attention to detail and fine fabrics. Relaxed denim styles sat alongside more crisp and polished tops, jackets and dresses: on-trend, classic and unexpectedly chic.
LINDY BOP @ MODA
MIRABELLE @ SCOOP
LEVI’S MADE & CRAFTED @ SCOOP
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LOUP NOIR @ SCOOP
British luxury accessory label Harlem Carter brought a bit of old school Hollywood glamour to the season, with its handmade, heart shaped clutch bags. A perfect companion to elegant eveningwear.
German accessory brand Loup Noir offered original handbags using a similar coated canvas as Louis Vuitton, with bold prints and statement shapes the brand’s key signature.
HARLEM CARTER @ MODA
LA GAUCHITA @ MODA A nautical trend story ran through s/s 17, and one company which interpreted Breton stripes and a navy, red and white colour scheme perfectly was Dutch brand La Gauchita.
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CREAM @ MODA This blouson-style jacket by Danish brand Cream, which showed alongside its sister label Fransa, ticked all the right boxes in terms of being on-trend as well as versatile and ultrawearable. The light silk fabric and subtle floral print added a contemporary twist.
FRANK LYMAN @ MODA Skirts were easily some of the biggest trend stories of s/s 17, and Frank Lyman’s version featuring a fresh coral colour scheme and crisp, A-line silhouette was up there with some of the most elegant styles around. Think dressed up with a cute top, or dressed down with a cashmere jumper, and the look is complete.
VILAGALLO @ MODA Vilagallo’s collection was once again colourful and exciting, with plenty of must-have and statement items. This simple but versatile tunic dress got full marks for demonstrating that you can combine elegant neutrals with this season’s hot trend, neon colour pops and still be wearable and stylish.
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London
Fashion Week
WWB’s Victoria Jackson was on hand during London Fashion Week to explore the emerging trends set to dominate the s/s 17 season.
DELICATE Carrying on from autumn’s love of ruffles and soft to the touch fabrics, delicate designs were back in abundance on the s/s 17 catwalks last month. From sheer panelling on minis at J. JS Lee to floor-sweeping draping at the likes of Bora Aksu and Temperley London, the key to this trend is to keep colour palettes as light and subtle as the fabrics chosen. Interest, meanwhile, came in the form of cold shoulder detailing and sequin finishes, updating this reoccurring trend for the new season.
ANTONIO BERRADI
J. JS LEE
TEMPERLEY LONDON
BORA AKSU
PIERS ATKINSON
GOTHIC PRINCESS A dark twist on summer, black dominated the catwalk this season with lace panelling and sheer organza overlays featuring throughout. Victorian inspired necklines were classically timeless at Manuel Facchini and Bora Aksu, while languid and loose silhouettes retained a modern elegance at Osman and Haizhen Wang. At Alice Archer, meanwhile, metallic application added a vintage edge to this gothic inspired trend.
HAIZHEN WANG
OSMAN
BORA AKSU
MANUEL FACCHINI
ALICE ARCHER
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LITTLE WHITE DRESS The little white dress, otherwise known as the LWD, is fast becoming a summer essential in-store. Although this trend usually lends itself to a more bohemian style of dressing – as seen in the Belstaff, Shrimps and Temperley London runway presentations – many collections included structured cotton and linen designs. Barbara Casasola, for example, presented a white belted shirt dress, while Amanda Wakeley added a feminine silhouette to an oversized dress with a contrasting black belt.
BELSTAFF
TEMPERLEY LONDON
BARBARA CASASOLA
AMANDA WAKELEY
SHRIMPS
XX
XX
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
BELSTAFF
ON REFLECTION Statement metallics are set to be unavoidable for s/s 17: from lamé to sequin finishes, this trend personifies the glamour of Studio 54. Whilst Versus Versace and Mary Katrantzou both opted for chainmail dresses and bell-bottom flared trousers, House of Holland went for oversized reflective disks in a series of blues, pinks and orange. Outerwear took a reflective turn at Belstaff, meanwhile, with silver lamé lightweight hooded jackets, while Ashish retained its signature eclectic design ethos with a cut-away sequin jumpsuit – certainly not the most commercial piece but definitely a collection highlight. ASHISH
VERSUS VERSACE
MARY KATRANTZOU
WILD, WILD WEST One of the most popular prints on the catwalk this season was undoubtedly gingham. And although this has certainly been around for many seasons, the way designers have reworked the classic picnic checks for spring deserves a mention. House of Holland, Peter Jensen and, surprisingly, Pringle of Scotland all worked this print into their runway collections, while the likes of Molly Goddard and Roberta Einer incorporated more of a typical Wild West theme into their s/s 17 offer with ruffles, necklines, denim and drawstring waists. ROBERTA EINER
PETER JENSEN
MOLLY GODDARD
PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
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Retailer spotlight:
FASHION TALENT GATHERS AT AWARDS
MATCHESFASHION.COM CELEBRATES NEW SEASON
The Midlands Fashion Awards 2016 took place at the beginning of the month, held in City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra, CBSO Centre. Partnering with the Edward Trust Charity, the ninth annual awards ceremony also hosted a fashion catwalk on the night. “Often the pressure for designers and creatives to move to London is overwhelming and seems inevitable, but there are so many potential opportunities right here in the Midlands. An event like this proves that there is a melting pot of talented individuals,” says Jenny Eason, founder of the Midlands Fashion Awards.
E-tailer Matchesfashion.com and London brand Racil hosted an a/w 16 collection celebration event in September. Held over three floors at the Matchesfashion.com premises in W1, guests sipped on constellation-inspired ‘shooting star’ and ‘dark matter’ martinis, mirroring the key theme of Racil’s latest collection. Racil’s signature Le Smoking Tuxedo in new season fabrics velvet and rich metallic brocades featured as part of an installation.
Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry
HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE , LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEB SITE , ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT REBECCA . JACKSON@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.
Web watch:
WWW.SHOPANEK.COM
Womenswear fashion website Anek opened its virtual doors in August with the launch of shopanek.com, offering a mixture of independent and ethical brands from around the world. Over 75 labels from more than 14 countries are available on the site, including the likes of 24 Hrs, A. Battiste, Ankara House, Alma de Ace, Bare Bones, Celia Gould, Daydream Nation, Daughter of Jón, Hose Tights, LiliPearl, Mary & Marie, Olio and Widow. Aside from promoting designers from a diverse range of countries, the site also covers a wealth of product categories including accessories, lingerie, apparel, bags, footwear and jewellery.
ADRIANA GREEN Owner, Scarecrow Boutique, London N8 www.scarecrowboutique.com What is your current bestseller in-store? The Amber top by Onjenu in various prints. An easy to wear, high neck, draped front top that looks great with jeans or smart enough to wear with trousers or a skirt for work. The prints are gorgeous and perfect for the new season. We have many fans of this brand so whenever new stock comes in we contact our database and let them know. How have you found trading over the last month? Trading has been up and down, which is what we expected. In August and September most of Crouch End go away, but trade has been better than expected. We top up on stock weekly. As the weather has continued to be lovely, we only have transitional stock in at the moment, so we are not sitting on winter stock. What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store? We have had one-off Sale days for our customers, where we have put on great offers and discounts for that day only, which has worked brilliantly. What’s on your agenda for the coming month? We are looking forward to our Macmillan Coffee morning. It is always a great turn-out and sociable event. Also the excitement of receiving our new season stock, which is already arriving; it is like being kids again.
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Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears
THE DRESSING ROOM EXPANDS
St Albans indie The Dressing Room has increased its physical retail space by a third to accommodate a larger product range. The expansion was part of a refit involving a reconfiguration of the space to allow more flexibility with merchandising and events, including a dedicated feature area for brand collaborations. In alignment with the store’s refit, The Dressing Room’s e-commerce site has also been refreshed with a new style assistance element. The Style Me page is an online translation of the in-store styling service, and sits alongside the look book, videos and blog content already on the site.
CINDY MARRITT Owner of Cindy’s, Sutton Bridge, Lincolnshire My bugbear is quite self-inflicted when I think about it. Opening a shop in a very rural location has been challenging to say the least. But building up a loyal customer base and keeping in contact with those customers has seen me through the harder trading times. We network and gain new clients through seasonal fashion shows, manufacturer promotional days and charity events in-store. Of course, occasionwear promotions at wedding fayres are all part of each new season. I think you have to do all of the above to keep your name to the forefront and, being in my 36th year of trading, I consider I am doing something right!
WOLF & BADGER TO OPEN IN USA London indie Wolf & Badger is opening its first standalone US store in Soho, New York. The new 2,500 sq ft flagship will present a curated edit of independent designer brands from the USA and Europe, and will open in February 2017. George Graham, CEO and co-founder, says “With Brexit looming and the UK entering a period of uncertainty, we are extremely pleased to be entering the US market and ensuring continued opportunity for independent labels, even if the European market starts to close up.”
Q&A:
What’s your a/w 16 in-store window display like?
DANIELLE ROGERS-CLARK
DIANE ALLAN
AMANDA SULIMAN BELL
ALEENA LIPPIATT
Owner, Believe in Boutique, Buckhurst Hill, Essex
Co-owner, Algarde, Biggar, South Lanarkshire
Owner, Rainbow & Spoon Boutique, Oxford
Owner, Aleena’s Boutique, Glasgow
“We’ve gone for puffa jackets, faux fur and capes. We’ve tried to avoid black, even though it sells really well. It’s nice to have a bit of colour in there too, so we’ve included camel brown and navy which work well together.”
“We have lovely displays in-store at the moment. We have some gorgeous faux fur items and gilets. We’ve focused on using items that work as fantastic layering options; ones that work well paired with jersey fabrics or skinny jeans.”
“We’ve presented a gothic Halloween theme, which includes pumpkin and skeleton print dresses. We’ve got lots of crushed velvet and faux fur items in earthy, khaki and tan colours. We tend to change our theme to match Christmas and Halloween during this time of year.”
“We’ve gone full on a/w this season. We’ve got lots of faux fur, gilets, knitted bobble hats and nice accessories to complete the look. We’ve got bright pops of colours, including pink and indigo, mixed in with greys and darker colours.”
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E-tail Clinic
Essential e-commerce advice The expert view: Catering to the millennial consumer Catering to the millennial consumer This year has been characterised by a drive for speed, integrated cloud technology and continuous change as retailers realign their software systems to meet the new, demanding and digital consumer. The millennial shopper is increasingly a hot topic, but how unique is this new breed of always-connected consumers and what will retailers be expected to deliver to them in 2017? Mobile matters According to Forrester Research, 4.8 billion people globally will be using a smartphone by the end of 2016. The mobile device is the central bridge between the physical and digital worlds, especially for the millennial shopper. Success will depend on a retailer’s ability to enhance the instore customer experience through mobile devices, enabled through enhanced technology and cloud platforms. From extended in-store product information including augmented reality (AR), QR, digital screens, touchscreen online catalogues and mobile PoS for a more personalised shopping experience, bricks & mortar retailers will increasingly need to bring the online experience in-store through mobile devices. And it’s not just about the in-store customer experience. Brands such as Neal’s Yard Remedies and Musto are harnessing cloud EPoS and retail management systems together with mobile PoS to enhance experience and shopper engagement through pop-up shops. Mobile and EPoS must extend into all forms of customer engagement and brand experience. Fast, simple and personal From point-of-sale transactions, delivery and returns through to fast product information, we will see customers increasingly valuing the ability to buy, deliver and collect quickly and easily, all whilst experiencing a seamless journey across any channel. The winners in this game will be those retailers whose management systems and EPoS frameworks have synchronised, real-time and universal data exchanges and built-in applications to deliver an omni-channel experience and cross-system accuracy. From multi-channel to omni-experience Recent years have seen many retailers battle with patching up old and disparate IT systems to enable the sales and service process to transcend multiple channels. Next year will be the year in which retailers focus on customer omni-experience. We can expect to see more cloud EPoS and retail management platforms rolled out to provide real-time data streaming at every touch and service point from till, shopping cart, eBay, loyalty and promotions, stock holding, merchandising, delivery and return through to click and collect and e-receipts. Customer experience is the key to success Gartner research revealed that customer experience will be the primary basis for competitor differentiation in 2017. Success will come down to a retailer’s ability to give millennial shoppers the personalised, quick, easy and seamless multichannel shopping experience they desire and demand. Those retailers that succeed in the post-Brexit and millennial retail world will quickly respond to shopper demands, integrating in-store technology, mobile, cloud, analytics and social media into one unified and intelligent platform to boost customer engagement and experience. Ian Tomlinson, CEO, Cybertill
Web chat: TEO LLOYD Director/CEO, Dolly Lloyd, London SW3 www.dollylloyd.com When did you launch your website? In January 2016. Dolly Lloyd is an e-commerce website which provides quick worldwide deliveries. The website holds our luxury in-house British brand, Teo Lloyd, as well as other independent labels. What percentage of your business does your site constitute? The Dolly Lloyd website constitutes 25 per cent of the business and is continuously growing. Are you selling the same stock online as in-store? The website offers the same boutique experience as you would get in-store. Purchases are sent in beautiful luxurious packaging with attention to detail. We provide customers with the best quality and exceptional brands, whether in-store or online, on all of our clothing, shoes and accessories. Is your e-commerce arm growing, and what is driving this growth? Yes, we are building up a large membership profile. Social media, the support from our happy and loyal customers and the exclusive brands that Dolly Lloyd offers have all helped to boost our online store. What are your plans for the site and how would you like it to develop? Our aim is for Dolly Lloyd to have an international image and success. Our in-house team is focused to achieve the best of what e-commerce offers. The exclusivity of our e-commerce is that we hold unique unknown talents/brands, which maintain exceptional value and quality. Therefore, we would like to focus on developing in the USA market.
27.8
%
Percentage of online orders going abroad post EU referendum, rising due to a sharp fall in the valuation of sterling The percentage of orders using ‘next day’ delivery options has overtaken ‘economy’ options (33.8 per cent). Source: IMRG
36.7%
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Brand Directory
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A Lab on Fire www.alofparfums.com Abbott Lyon 020 7025 8871 www.abbottlyon.com Acai 00653 281726 www.acaiactivewear.com Agonist 0039 04976 25241 www.agonistparfums.com Alice Hannah 020 8943 9383 www.alicehannah.co.uk Archipelago 00917 285 4947 shoparchipelago.com Avery 020 7629 1892 www.averyperfumegallery.com Bellfield 0844 477 4856 www.bellfieldclothing.com Bench 0049 8915 0018554 www.bench.co.uk Bianca Elgar 01865 721468 www.biancaelgar.com Boom Bap Wear 020 7720 7425 www.boombapwear.com Bright and Beautiful by Collectif 020 7511 6224 www.collectif.co.uk Coach 020 3808 2672 uk.coach.com Cocolux 0061 4142 77350 www.cocoluxaustralia.com Control Body 0845 094 6603 www.alterego-lingerie.com Cuddl Duds 01580 241111 www.cuddlduds.com Elle Sport 020 7702 0203 www.ellesport.co.uk Emi 0041 7643 22332 www.emijewellery.com Emily and Fin 020 7812 9992 www.emilyandfin.co.uk Farer 020 3375 6428 www.farer.com Fever London 020 7702 0203 www.feverdesigns.co.uk Fjallraven 0046 6602 66200 www.fjallraven.co.uk Forbes and Lewis www.forbesandlewis.com Fransa 0161 236 9251 www.fransa.com Freya Active 01536 760282 www.freyalingerie.com Gestuz 020 3302 8867 www.innocenza.co.uk Gr1ps www.gr1ps.com Grace and Mila 020 3432 6385 www.graceandmila.com Happy Plugs 020 3609 5313 www.happyplugs.com Hershel Supply 020 7907 7228 www.herschelsupply.com Jekyll & Hide 07557 332 618 www.jekyllandhide.co.uk Joules 020 7845 7800 www.joules.com Leg Code 0037 0673 90009 www.legcode.lt/en Lily & Me 01566 779477 www.lilyandmeclothing.com Magic Yoga 020 7499 4598 www.magicbodyfashion.com Maison Louis Marie www.maisonlouismarie.com Marc Cain 0049 07471709 www.marc-cain.com Matt & Nat 00514 3882 334228 www.mattandnat.com Mighty Purse 020 7702 0203 www.hbutler.co/en_au Mi-pac 020 7739 7620 www.mi-pac.com Neon Rose 0161 835 2064 www.neonrose.co.uk Netatmo www.netatmo.com Newgate Clocks 01691 679994 www.newgateclocks.com O’Neill www.oneill.com 0044 1899 491006 Olivia Burton 020 7426 0413 www.oliviaburton.com Onar Studios 00358 4070 44220 www.onarstudios.com Pepper & Mayne 020 7499 4598 www.pepperandmayne.com Picadilly 020 7580 3202 www.picadilly.ca Ringly www.ringly.com Salt 020 3793 0964 www.thesportsedit.com Salvatore Ferragamo 0039 0553 562780 www.ferragamo.com Sandqvist 0046 7222 42333 www.sandqvist.net Shellys London 020 3728 9988 www.shellyslondon.co.uk Shore Projects 020 3375 6428 www.shoreprojects.com Slaith 01484 848434 www.slaith.co.uk Ted Baker 0345 450 2484 www.tedbaker.com Temple London 020 7636 1399 www.temple-london.com Varley 020 7580 3456 www.varley.com Waven 020 3475 2303 www.waven.co.uk Wolf & Whistle 07807 361457 www.wolfandwhistle.co.uk
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The Last Word with... Anna Park, owner of retail chain Anna and clothing label Primrose Park What key lessons have you learned about running a fashion line? I’ve learnt that it’s not easy producing a perfect collection. Working with different countries for production and getting things perfect is challenging, especially when certain suppliers find it difficult to understand the calibre of our business. What has been the recipe for success for your retail stores? For retail, I have constantly strived to deliver what the customer wants, be it new and exciting, unknown brands or inexpensive collections when money has been tight. I work on the shop floor and travel around the stores; I love selling and I am passionate about the product that I sell – this is the key. Most of my staff have worked with me for over five years, some over 10, so they are the same as me, we all think the same. We also all have a bit of ‘mad’ in us and this helps massively. I think it’s fun in the stores, so the clients love it too. How is the independent retail side faring? Retail is challenging at the moment. We had an uncertain period during Brexit as my clients were unsure of the changing times. I have to continually stay ahead, offering new and exciting product that’s competitively priced. Customers are savvy; they know what they should be spending on products. You run a successful mini retail chain, and have now added your own wholesale collection, Primrose Park, to your work portfolio. How are you finding juggling a retail and wholesale business? Juggling retail and wholesale is surprisingly easy as I can gauge what everyone is after while working on my collection. What prompted you to launch your own collection? I love colour and print; the older we get the more we should embrace colour. But I have been finding it increasingly hard to find a good, correctly priced collection with these elements, so I designed one myself, primarily for my clients. After continued requests to wholesale the range, I launched Primrose Park. How has the response been to the range? I have been so lucky with the response; everyone has been very excited and positive. I’ve been in the industry for 25 years, so hopefully I know what my customers want. Is it of benefit to have that retail background to inform a wholesale range? Having worked in retail for so long I have taken on board everything that niggles the customer: no sleeves, high necks, backless, mini lengths... Also, I’ve worked very hard on the price so that I can deliver a collection that is very affordable.
What are your future plans for both the stores and your own range? I love Anna as it is, so I don’t have plans to open any new permanent stores, but I might look at some ‘pop ups’. Primrose Park will continue to grow. We are looking at expanding into Europe and the US. The collection will remain as it is, primarily printed tops and dresses highlighted with skirts and trousers, but we will continue to create new and exclusive prints.
What drives you personally? I’m driven by my customers, I love feedback. I listen and take comments on board. How do you unwind? I unwind by cooking for the family when we are all together. I run at weekends through the north Norfolk countryside and between Easter and September I swim in the north Norfolk sea. What are the three things on your bucket list? A trip to Antarctica, the New York marathon with my son, and following the England cricket team around the world. What is the best piece of business advice you have been given? It was from my father: never have a business partner. If you can do it on your own, do it. You only ever have arguments with yourself then, and obviously you’ll always win!
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